TRAVEL & LEISURE
ZAMBIA JULY - SEPT 2016
WEST LUNGA
A little known ecological refuge
VICTORIA FALLS From Devil’s Pool & Angel’s Armchair
What to do when attacked by
BUFFALO
Anabezi and Amanzi Camp are located in the far end of the Lower Zambezi National Park. Anabezi consists of 10 tents while Amanzi has 4, with a more rustic feel. Book for the 2017 season and qualify for the early bird special: pay for 2 nights and stay for 3.
reservations@anabezi.com / www.anabezi.com
TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA / JULY - SEPT 2016
CONTENTS Features
Kafue National Park By Sue van Wilsen
06
Five Minutes with Patrick Siabunkululu By Andrew Muswala West Lunga By Dorian Tilbury
08
10
Tales From The Bush By Mindy Roberts & Vicky Austin
13
Victoria Falls From Livingstone Island By Sanja Cloete-Jones
24
Interview with Mwaka Mwitangeti 26 By Andrew Muswala What to do if attacked by buffalo 27 By John Coppinger The Magic of Mutinondo Wilderness By Frank Willems
28
Lavushi Manda National Park 14 By Adam Pope
Planning your Zambian Safari - Part 2 By Nick Aslin
30
The Victoria Falls Bridge By Kathy Mills
Tribal Textiles By Jake da Motta
16
32 C
Lower Zambezi National Park 20 SLNP - A Volunteer’s Perspective 35 By Grant Cumings By Flora Strachan
M
Y
CM
Advertisers Index
CY
I.F.C.
The Bushcamp Company
31
Zambian Ground Handlers
CMY
01
Anabezi & Amanzi Camps
34
Edward Selfe Photography
K
03
Ila Safari Lodge
34
Lake Kariba Inns
05
Norman Carr Safaris
34
Track and Trail River Camp
18
Matoya Fishing Lodge
34
Lake Safari Lodge
22
Chiawa Camp & Old Mondoro
I.B.C.
Remote Africa Safaris
B.C.
Mukambi Safaris
TRAVEL & LEISURE
ZAMBIA
is now online!
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MY
www.zambiatravelmag.com TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
TRAVEL & LEISURE
A word from the MD ZAMBIA Publisher Safari Magazine
Editor Andrew Muswala
Sub-Editor Kathy G Mills Email: kathygmills@gmail.com
Managing Director Andrew Muswala Email: andrew@zambiatravelmag.com Layout and Art Director Gemma Beardsall Email: gemmakb@hotmail.co.uk
Welcome to the fourth edition of Travel and Leisure Zambia.
It’s been ten months since we published our first edition and the readership demand has been growing at a fast rate.
With the distribution of the first three publications mainly having been within Zambia, we are now pleased to announce that our reach has expanded into the international market. Beginning July 2016, we will be distributing copies to world-renowned travel agents in different regions of the United States. This has come at a time when interest in Zambia is rising rapidly. We are grateful to all those companies who have embraced our objective and made this publication possible. Zambia manages to strike a balance between the modern world and unspoilt wilderness. It still contains vast expanses of terrain that are brimming with the essence of raw adventure—places that have continued to evade man’s obsession with controlling and modifying nature. In this issue, you’ll read independent, unbiased accounts by writers who have a passion for this beautiful country and have experienced Zambia’s wonders first-hand: from lush landscapes to exotic wildlife to stunning natural and man-made wonders, this issue has something for everyone.
Dorian Tilbury writes about West Lunga National Park (p 10). This area in the north west of Zambia still exhibits God’s creation in its wondrous natural state. Mutinondo Wilderness epitomises the African qualities that have captured people’s hearts for centuries. (p 28). Livingstone is known as the adventure capital of Africa. We invite you to take a deep breath and plunge into the churning Zambezi River with Sanja Cloete -Jones as she talks about Livingstone Island, Devil’s Pool and Angel’s Armchair. (p 24) Kathy G. Mills also samples adventure activities at the Victoria Falls Bridge. (p 16)
The sheer scenic beauty of the Lower Zambezi National Park is breath-taking. Grant Cumings shows us around as he explores the park in depth, revealing its geography, its wildlife and unparalleled scope for adventure. (p 20) John Coppinger begins a series of articles that explain what to do in case of a wild animal attack. (p 27).
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Elsewhere in the magazine you’ll find a review of Kafue National Park (the hidden gem of Africa!), an interview with a young Zambian lodge manager, our hottest travel tips, and much more! Happy reading!
TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
Consultant Jo Pope Email: popejo@gmail.com
Subscriptions Email: ads@zambiatravelmag.com Mobile: +260 955 108 536 / +260 967 308 711 www.zambiatravelmag.com
Contributors John Coppinger, Kathy G. Mills, Sue Van Wilsem, Sanja Cloete - Jones, Frank Willems, Norman Carr Safaris, Flora Strachan, Dorian Tilbery, Grant Cummings, Laura Waite, Jake da Motta, Adam Pope, Tongabezi Lodge, Nick Aslin, Peter Geraerdts, Edward Selfe, Wilderness Safaris, Warren Munro, Vicky Austin. Printers Impumelelo Print Solutions (Pty) Ltd, Unit 7, Kings Court, 52 Mineral Crescent, Crown Ext.5, Johannesburg, South Africa. TEL: +27 11 839 4414 FAX: +27 11 837 3011
Copyright Copyright © All right for material appearing in this magazine belongs to Travel and Leisure Zambia and / or the individual contributors. No part of this magazine may be reproduced either without the written consent of the publishers or with due acknowledgment.
On the cover
Southern Crowned Crane in South Luangwa National Park Photo by Edward Selfe
TRAVEL & LEISURE
ZAMBIA JULY - SEPT 2016
WEST LUNGA
A little known ecological refuge
VICTORIA FALLS From Devil’s Pool & Angel’s Armchair
What to do when attacked by
BUFFALO
Liuwa Plain South Luangwa
Your time is precious...
Zambia’s Original Safari Company est. 1950
KAFUE NATIONAL PARK
Africa’s Hidden Gem By: Sue van Wilsen Photos: Wilderness Safaris
W
ith the dual honour of being Zambia’s oldest and largest national park, Kafue is the hidden gem of the African continent. At a staggeringly vast 2.24 million hectares (the same size as Wales), the park forms part of an enormous conservation area that spans 7.3 million hectares. The park is home to an extraordinarily diverse array of wildlife, including large herds of water-loving lechwe, grass-dwelling puku, along with some more unusual species, such as sitatunga and roan antelope. Ever in their pursuit, this plentiful population of plains game also attracts impressive numbers of predators, including wild dog, cheetah and lion. Situated in the upper north-western reaches of Kafue, the Busanga Plains are perhaps the prime wildlife viewing destination in the country, with 28 000 hectares of expansive grassland, channels, palm islands and papyrus swamp.
When to go
Every year from December through to March, the
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TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
summer rains arrive and transform Kafue’s flat, grassy landscape into a mosaic of floodplains, channels and palm islands, which also render the Busanga Plains inaccessible. The dry season runs from June to October, at which time, the seasonal camps open to tourists. June can be a very exciting time to visit the park, as the water levels are often still fairly high, attracting a huge diversity of birdlife, and high concentrations of lechwe and puku. Due to the limited amount of dry land, Kafue’s lion prides are seen regularly, and those fortunate enough may even be able to see occasional sightings of swimming lions and chases through water.
From July through to October is peak game-viewing season as the Busanga Plains dry up, making a wider area accessible by game drive vehicles. Zebra and wildebeest are plentiful, while cheetah and wild dog are also often sighted.
What to do
One of the best ways to take in the vast Kafue landscape is by air. At 28 000 hectares, the Busanga Plains is considered to be one of the
Hot air balloon ride over the floodplain
most exclusive hot air ballooning destinations in the world and guests can expect to see thousands of lechwe and puku, along with pods of hippo while enjoying the spectacular sunrise surrounded by nothing but endless vistas of completely unspoilt, remote African wilderness. Those spending three nights or more at Wilderness
graphic Wild documentary due to their unusual fondness for climbing trees. As Kafue’s apex predator, each season brings opportunities for visitors to observe dramatic hunts, along with unexpected and exciting changes in the dominant pride dynamics, with ongoing clashes making for riveting viewing. TL Z
“The Busanga Plains is considered to be one of the most exclusive hot air ballooning destinations in the world” Safaris Busanga or Shumba camps during August, September and October are provided a hot air ballooning experience free of charge.
Cheetah sighting on a game drive
While a bird’s eye view provides a great overview of the park, game drives, walking safaris and boat trips are the perfect way to get an up-close perspective of its bountiful wildlife, with Kafue’s flat, open landscape allowing for excellent visibility and game viewing. Those visiting at the beginning of the season also have the option of traversing the shallow waters of the Busanga Plains by boat. Busanga’s most famous residents are its legendary swamp lions; the subject of a National Geo-
TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
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Interview
Five minutes with
PATRICK SIABUNKULULU When did you join Anabezi camp and what is your role? I joined Anabezi in 2014 and I am a senior guide.
Where did you grow up and how did your safari guiding career start? I grew up in a village called Singani in Choma in the southern province of Zambia. I always loved birds ever since I was a child and when I moved to Lusaka for work, my boss asked me to accompany him in exploring Lower Zambezi National Park. He had bought a place where he wanted to build a lodge, we constructed a camp there and other staff houses. We came on 26th October, 2000 and I felt at home immediately when I came to Lower Zambezi National Park. In terms of guiding, which one do you prefer, walking or driving? I prefer walking. It is more interactive as the guests are able to point out what they see and get more involved. What are your favourite walks? Birding walks and tracking down cats.
What do you love most about working at Anabezi camp? It’s the best place to work for. They have built a good team between senior management and members of staff. TL Z
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TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
By: Peter Geraerdts
in Your Pictures
hat defines a good photograph for one person might be different for another person. It’s rather a matter of taste and knowing what you are doing. In photography, creativity and a technical skill are both essential. An artistic eye and some imagination might help you in creating strong dynamic pictures.
The Art of Panning Panning is a technique that can produce stunning images but it can be quite frustrating in the beginning as it takes a lot of practice to get it right. The basic idea behind panning as a technique is that you pan your camera smoothly along in time with the moving subject and end up capturing a relatively sharp subject but a blurred background. If you want to try this technique try it at 1/30 second shutter speed first. You can reduce the shutter speed as you master this skill. Peter Geraerdts is a professional wildlife photographer working in Zambia. He co-owns the Track and Trail River Camp in South Luangwa National Park. info@trackandtrailrivercamp.com / www.petergeraerdts.com
Photography = Art ........ Challenge Yourself!
TL Z
Above and Below photos: Canon 1DX – 500mm f4.0 – Exposure 1/8sec @ F18
Creating
WEST LUNGA
A little known ecological refuge in North Western Zambia
T
he West Lunga ecosystem is situated in Mwinilunga and Solwezi Districts and spans 11,754 square kilometres. It encompasses the West Lunga National Park, Chibwika Ntambu, Musele Matebo, Lukwakwa and Chizela Game Management Areas.
In the late 1950’s, W.F.H Ansell wrote an article for African Wildlife entitled “Little Known Game Reserve” in which he described the Lunga Wildlife Reserve. This is now the West Lunga National Park and today perhaps it has even less notoriety than it did fifty years ago. Back then, Ansell and his colleagues in the wildlife department described vast habitats strewn with sable, roan, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, puku, impala, oribi, zebra, blue duiker, lion, leopard, cheetah, wild dog, buffalo and elephant all in healthy numbers. One wildlife department ranger from 1953 even suggested that the name of the reserve be changed to the Lunga Elephant Reserve because of the staggering numbers he encountered. Today, you are lucky to see a couple of puku in a 5 hour drive through the park.
The habitat remains vast, diverse, well-watered, untouched, and largely devoid of wildlife. It is truly one of the most remote places in Zambia and when one looks around, the word “potential” rings true at every turn. So what happened?
It is amazing to think that in such a short space of time and with rudimentary hunting techniques, all the wildlife could be depleted. Armed conflicts with Mushala and the Zambian army in the 1980’s probably didn’t help matters and the Maheba refugee camp that took in over 50,000 Angolan refugees over a 20 year period could also have fuelled the demise. But is it possible that thousands of animals can just disappear?
I canoed the West Lunga with my wife in 2004. We spent seven nights on the river and walked into the park each afternoon. We encountered very little wildlife and I remember being struck by the silence at some points, unable to comprehend the thousands of unutilised hectares around me. Birds were prolific and spectacular, the scenery breath taking and absorbing, the river outlandish and extraordinary. There were no people, we had no communications, and it truly felt like we had come to the edge of the earth. The lack of wildlife left us with an uneasy feeling of the carnage that must have transpired but it also inspired us to turn the potential into the conceivable.
By: Dorian Tilbury Photos: Warren Munro This photo: The Kabompo River
The West Lunga ecosystem is dominated by pristine Brachystegia woodland and vast tracts of mavunda forests interspersed with large grass plains and seasonally flooded dambos. The West Lunga and Kabompo Rivers form the boundaries of the national park and there are substantial perennial water courses across the entire system that converge in the Kabompo and eventually drain into the Zambezi River. TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
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The ecological significance of West Lunga is both hydrological, in its contribution to the head waters of the Zambezi and Kafue River systems, and geophysical due to the presence of large tracts of mavunda forest. Mavunda is a local term used to describe the understorey of shrubs, scramblers and climbers that form a dense thicket and comprise the chief characteristic of Cryptosepalum forests. Mavunda is multi storeyed; it has partially closed canopies and is classified as the largest area of dry evergreen forest in Africa. West Lunga literally has thousands of square kilometres of mavunda. Its contribution to atmospheric CO2 mitigation, microclimate regulation, and influence on large scale hydrological systems is paramount and emphasises the need for its conservation action. The Trident Foundation is a non-profit entity funded by Kalumbila Minerals Ltd. In 2014 they signed an MOU with ZAWA now (the Department of National Parks and World Life) to assist with the management of West Lunga. The West Lunga AMU was under-resourced, underfunded and seriously lacking in manpower. With support from the foundation, patrol coverage has increased exponentially resulting in the removal of thousands of snares, the arrests of numerous illegal hunters and the confiscation of firearms, ammunition and bush meat. But perhaps the most notable achievement of the national parks field officers is the increase in live sightings and indirect sightings of wildlife. Elephant, buffalo, sable, puku, oribi, impala, the odd waterbuck, an occasional hartebeest and even two stray lions in Chizela were reported in 2015. As the officers gain greater control and spread their patrols further and wider, it seems that not all of the animals disappeared as we had once thought. The mavunda is thick and vast and it has created a sanctuary to which they fled. Slowly and with much trepidation, the wildlife is literally coming out of the woodwork.
A road has now been opened into the park and the pontoon at Jivundu HQ is operational, ferrying park management vehicles across the Kabompo. There is a rustic and rudimentary campsite at Jivundu and the option for tourists to once again enter this majestic “Little Known Reserve” is there. Just keep your expectations of game viewing low! TL Z
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TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
Kabompo River
Kabompo River
Ngozi floodplain
Kabompo River
Tales from the bush By: Mindy Roberts / Photos: Norman Carr Safaris
There seems to be something new on the menu for a particular pride of lion in the South Luangwa National Park, Zambia. Where once buffalo was the food of choice, these nine lion (a splinter group from a big pride) seem to have taken a liking to hippopotamus. Hippos generally lack survival instincts as they aren’t normally preyed upon. For this reason, it isn’t unheard of for opportunistic juvenile lions to take down a hippo, Abraham Banda, senior guide at Norman Carr Safaris, explained. Additionally, the lack of rains this year has led to many hippos making solitary trips out of water, and the pride seems to making the most of this development. In the last few months, the pride has killed six hippo in the area— and there have been many more attempts. Lions tend to specialize in killing certain prey, and this pride is growing more and more confident with its hippo-hunting skills. It is a goodsized pride—nine individuals with one adult female, two sub-adult males, and six sub-adult females. When hunting a juvenile hippo, a few members of the pride distract the mother while others overwhelm the juvenile. Interestingly, they wear it down until they can easily attack it and immobilize it, rather than the traditional strangulation or asphyxiation. These photos were taken at Norman Carr Safaris’ Chinzombo camp. No one is entirely sure why the lions’ behavior has changed over the last few months. Johnathan Merkle from the Zambian Carnivore Programme, who monitors lion in the region, points out that they are still taking down other prey, but with poor rains this year there is more and more opportunity to target hippo as water pools, rivers, and lagoons dry up. So watch this space as the Luangwa heats up and water becomes increasingly scarce; we’re pretty sure there will be ongoing reports of these lions and their new dinnertime favourites.
By: Vicky Austin
It goes without saying that everyone on safari has some sense of adventure. In Zambia, we like to take that one step further—literally. Walking through the bush, tracking lions on foot, or skirting around a herd of elephant is not for the faint-hearted. Zambia is where walking safaris began. But what about those looking for even more adventure? Why not make the bush your home for the night? As you settle down for the evening around the campfire, stories will be exchanged and your chef will cook your braii over the hot coals. After dinner you’ll be ready to sleep. Enjoy curling up in a comfortable roll bed with nothing but a mosquito net between you and the beautiful African night sky. It’s not called a 5 (million) star bed for nothing!
During the night, it’s likely you’ll hear the whoop of a hyena, the low rumble of lions, and possibly the sawing rasp of a leopard – it depends on how deeply you sleep! Are you brave enough to return to the wild?
TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
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By: Adam Pope Photos: Kasanka Trust / Frank Willems
Features and History
The Lavushi Manda National Park is in Muchinga Province in northern Zambia. It extends over 1,600 square kilometres and comprises large, picturesque dambos (including the Chimfutumba Plain in the north-west), miombo woodland, riverine forest and waterfalls. Its central feature, however, is an iconic and scenic range of quartzite hills and raffia palm bogs running north-east to south-west through the park with the highest peak (Lavushi) rising to just over 1,800 metres. The park protects the headwaters of the Lulimala, Lukulu and Lumbatwa Rivers, thereby providing a critically important environmental buffer to the Bangweu-
lu Wetlands, which is an important fishery. These wetlands also provide a breeding site for the rare shoebill and a range area for endemic Black Lechwe and Tssessebe populations on the Chikuni Plains. The park was created in 1941 and gazetted as a national park in 1972. From the 1980s, declining resources available to the park led to widespread poaching and encroachment. In 2010, the Kasanka Trust took on the management responsibility for Lavushi Manda under an extension of their long-standing public-private partnership with the then Zambia Wildlife Authority (now the Department of National Parks and Wildlife [DNPW]). That work continues but staffing is still small and poaching and encroachment constitute major challenges to management and conservation.
Lavushi Manda Natio Emerging from Obscurity How to Get There and Book
The Lavushi Manda Range
The park lies west of the Great North Road (GNR) 187 km from Serenje. About 40 km north of Serenje is the turn off to the Kasanka National Park, Samfya and Mansa, but continue straight for a further 150 km and shortly after Kalonje Railway siding you turn left to Lavushi Manda, Chiundaponde and the Bangweulu Wetlands. The Fibishi Park entrance gate is approximately 13 km down the road where Fred Mbulwe, the park manager, and his staff will gladly help you with further details.
Species Diversity and Relevance
Sable Herd with a Lichtenstein's Hartebeest
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Lavushi Manda has a diverse assemblage of underlying geological units that is reflected in the landscape through varied soil and vegetation units. Animal populations have a corresponding richness
with records to date of more than 50 mammal species, over 350 bird species, 35 reptile and around 15 amphibian species. This level of biological diversity, coupled with its headwater function, scenic attractions, and connectivity to the Kasanka National Park and the Kafinda and Bangweulu game management areas gives the park an important place within Zambia’s national park system.
Information, Facilities, Things to Do, and Booking
This is not a national park for those wanting the traditional safari menu of massive herds of herbivores and carnivores in all directions. Here you work hard to be rewarded with sightings and it helps to know something about animal habits
One of the Mumbatuta Falls Cascades
Hiking in the Lavushi Range
onal Park
and ecology to be successful. The park also offers amazing hiking and scenery around the Lavushi Manda Range and spectacular dambos, rivers and waterfalls. A well-kept secret is the exceptional yellow fish and bream fly-fishing on the Lukulu River. Although no major cave paintings have been found yet, the area has an interesting cultural history with several important burial grounds and ancient iron working sites. The Kasanka Trust has developed four campsites in the park, at the Kapanda Lupili and Mumbatuta Falls, below Lavushi Peak and on the edge of the Chibembe Plain. A tented camp will be available from the second half of 2016, and an interpretive centre at Fibishi Camp can accommodate small school groups. The Kasanka Trust also runs an overland truck with camping facilities that can
transport groups of approximately 15 in comfort. Lavushi Manda bookings can be made through res@kasankanationalpark.com. Further details are available on the web site www.kasankanationalpark.com. Direct arrivals can also be accommodated.
Interesting features and places to explore along the way to Lavushi Manda (apart from the Kasanka National Park) include the Kundalila Falls, Lake Lusiwasi, the spectacular Nsalu Caves and Mutinondo Wilderness. You can also add on the wonderful Bangweulu Wetlands, Shiwa Ng’andu, the North Luangwa National Park and other features of the northern circuit. Lavushi Manda looks forward to welcoming you! TL Z
TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
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By: Kathy G. Mills Photo: Kathy G. Mills
The Victoria Falls Bridge stretches 198 meters across the gorge between southern Zambia and northwest Zimbabwe, where the Zambezi River forms a natural border between the two countries. Completed in 1905, it was intended to be part of a vast railway network of uninterrupted track running from Cape Town to Cairo. English businessman and politician Cecil John Rhodes, who initiated the process, ordered that the bridge be placed so close to Victoria Falls that train passengers
Walking Across—The most sedate option on this list, walking across the bridge offers the unique opportunity to occupy space in two countries at once, just by stopping midway. Regard the mighty falls from a number of different vantage points and don’t forget your camera—the steady supply of mist ensures a multitude of rainbows.
Other high-octane adventures take place in the vicinity of the bridge. These activities all use thick cables secured at either end of the gorge, providing tourists a unique, gravity-defying passage over the Zambezi.
Zip-Lining—Riders attach to the cable via a full-body harness which provides a comfortable sitting posiWalking Under—For a different tion while zipping across the gorge view, consider venturing under- at speeds up to 106 km. (also known neath the bridge. Guides make sure as a slide). that guests are fitted into sturdy harnesses and hooked onto a safe- Flying—The Flying Fox experience ty rope before the tour begins. An is similar to zip lining; the difference
THE VICTORIA FALLS BRIDGE:
Something for Everyone
would feel water spray in their faces up-close look at Victorian-era engias they journeyed over the river. neering and a fact-filled presentation make this activity one of VictoThe Cape Town to Cairo network ria Falls’ most popular. The rumble never materialized, and Cecil John of cars and trains overhead kicks up Rhodes died before completion of the adventure quotient just a notch. the bridge. However, his vision of the Victoria Falls Bridge as an inter- Jumping Off—The bridge is also active tourist experience has been the platform for a world-renowned, realized—almost certainly far be- adrenaline-charged bungee jump. yond what he ever could have imag- Commencing operation in 1994, ined. These days, visitors who aren’t it serves over 13,000 visitors a satisfied with merely riding over the year. Jumpers dive head first for a bridge now have the option to walk 111 meter drop, then swing above across it, walk under it, or even jump croc-infested waters by their ankles off the side of it. before being hoisted back to safety.
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TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
is the position of the rider. Hooking to the cable via the back of the harness allows riders to “fly” with arms and legs outstretched for the 200 meter trip. Swinging—Swingers hook onto a rope attached to the middle of the gorge cable and step off the platform—freefalling 70 meters before bouncing back up and settling into a pendulum-style swing over the river. The best way to experience the bridge? Sitting on the train with a glass of champagne, of course! TL Z
ESSENTIAL ZAMBIA Language: English is the official language. Time Zone: GMT+2
International dialling code: +260
ZIKOMO SAFARIS KITCHEN Starter Pumpkin soup
Ingredients: pumpkin, onion,
garlic, apple, milk, cinnamon, black pepper and salt
Served with bread rolls
Main Course Chicken Curry
Ingredients: chicken, onion,
garlic, lemongrass, assorted
veggies, curry powder, corian-
der, ginger, chili, coconut milk,
salt, black pepper, turmeric and chicken stork
Served with rice
Dessert
Cream Caramel
Ingredients: eggs, milk, castor
sugar, fresh cream, brown sugar,
vanilla essence or caramel flavor
Visas: Visas are needed for most visitors to Zambia. They are available from Zambian embassies abroad or at Kenneth Kaunda International airport and other points of entry.
Health: Malaria occurs in many parts of the country, especially in
the low-lying areas where the game parks are often situated. There-
fore, malaria prophylactics are strongly recommended. Yellow fever
certificates are required if you are travelling from an infected area. It is advisable to have medical insurance that includes a provision for medevac (medical evacuation).
Safety: Zambia is a known for friendliness and great hospitality but
like anywhere in the world, especially where there is high unemployment, it is wise to remain vigilant at all times. Be aware of pick-pockets and thieves in the towns and cities. Do not leave your belongings unattended and when in public, carry only the minimum amount of
cash that you need. Always lock a vehicle and do not leave items visible in a parked vehicle
Money: The unit of currency is the Zambian Kwacha (ZMW). Foreign currency (US dollars are best) can be changed into Kwacha at banks
and there are foreign exchange bureaus in most towns. Visa and to a
lesser extent MasterCard are accepted by many tourist hotels, and can also be used to draw local currency at ATMs in the major towns.
Getting there: Emirates (www.emirates.com), Kenya Airways (www.
kenya-airways.com), Ethiopian Airlines (www.ethiopianairlines.com), and South African Airways (www.flysaa.com) fly to Lusaka, linking to
Europe and the USA via Nairobi, Dubai, Addis Ababa or Johannesburg/ Cape Town.
Getting around: Once in Lusaka, internal flights can connect you to
most major destinations in Zambia (www.flyzambia.com). Local buses are cheap and frequent in cities. There are also luxury coach services for longer journeys.
Weather: Zambian weather is essentially divided between two sea-
sons: the dry season from May to October, and the rainy season from November to April. May to August marks Zambia’s winter when it is
warm and pleasant during the day and very cool at night. During this
time it can be cold on game viewing vehicles in the early morning, es-
pecially on the plateau. September to November is a period of hot and dry weather—in the valleys, temperatures can reach up to 40 degrees Celsius. Around November or December, Zambia experiences intermittent showers and storms that usher in the rainy season, keeping the climate warm and humid through April.
TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
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+26 096 7101421 (Zambia) +27 (0)82 2531814 (SA)
bookings@matoyalodge.com www.matoyalodge.com
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Palmwood has been there forever. Formerly a big plot with only the Sissing family house in the centre. Then converted step by step by Mable Sissing, first to a guests house and then into a lodge in 1998. Her flair for gardening and landscaping is clearly visible all over the premises. Palmwood Lodge has a total of 40 boutique rooms, 5 state of art conference venues, international restaurant, a combined bar & lounge with live sports on flat screen TV, entertainment area and swimming pool. On top of that, Palmwood Lodge has fast optic fibre internet free of charge for its guests.
So why choose Palmwood Lodge when staying in Lusaka? 1. The beauty of the place. Our guests are always surprised about the lovely gardens which nobody expects in Lusaka. The rooms and bungalows are spread all over the plot and non of the rooms is the same – apart from the high standard of the furnishings and ameni-ties! 2. Our Employees – At Palmwood we recognize every one of our guests as an individual and supply service up to their individual needs. That goes from Check-in to Check-out. We know our guests names, likes and dislikes. We shall go out of our way to make your stay memorable. Experience it yourself! 3. We have nothing less than the big international chains. We got it all under one roof! Swimming pool, gym, jewellery shop, 24-hours reception, restaurant and bar, wedding venues, conference venues, wellbeing gar-dens and high speed internet for free. 4. Best location between town and airport. When staying at Palmwood, getting around is easy and traffic jams are an unusual event. Malls, business and government districts are just a short drive away.
While we are already a great place to be, our aim is to be a 4 star boutique lodge within the next two years. More investments are planned and renovations of all areas are an ongoing pro-cess.
Since April 2015, Palmwood Lodge is managed by Florian Gabathuler, a Swiss hotel school graduate. He was later joined by Sudershan Hazarika, from India, who is looking after the lodges operations. The two know each other from back in school. Together with Mable Sissing, the owner and director of Palmwood, they build a great team and work restlessly on bringing the lodge forward and towards international standard.
During 2016 we will open small weekend resort out in the coun-tryside on our farm – perfect getaway for urban folk over a weekend. Experience bush walks, hiking, plant and harvest biological vegetables or learn how to cook local foods. A true Ecotourism experience!
Palmwood Lodge can be viewed and booked online on our website, www.palmwoodlodge.co.zm, facebook, book-ing. com, expedia and the bestofzambia.com. For bookings, enquiries and quotes, the lodge manager will be happy to assist. Call +260 211 29 54 11 or write to lodgemanager@palmwoodlodge.co.zm. Mable, Florian and Team are looking forward to spoil you at Palmwood Lodge, Central Street, Chudleigh in the Zambian Capital of Lusaka!
By: Grant Cumings Photos: Chiawa Camp and Old Mondoro
O
n the banks of the Zambezi River in the south-eastern part of Zambia, opposite Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), the spectacular Lower Zambezi National Park occupies 4,092 square kilometres, with 120 kilometres of river frontage. Its distinguishing features are the rugged escarpment to the north, the river itself, and its numerous islands, lagoons and flood plains. Together, these create one of the most interesting eco-systems on the planet—a home and feeding ground for an incredible amount of Zambian wildlife in one of Africa’s most diverse and scenic national parks.
The rich and diverse habitat of the lower Zambezi is home to an impressive array of wildlife. Abundant water, food and shelter give rise to one of Africa’s healthiest elephant populations, vast herds of buffalo, prides of lion, leopards, hyenas, jackals, hippos, crocodile, zebra, various small carnivores and omnivores, antelope, and over 400 species of birds. One of the trademarks of the lower Zambezi is the visitation of massive elephant bulls that feed nonchalantly throughout the safari camps and lodges. What makes wildlife viewing extra special in the lower Zambezi is the opportunity to watch many of these creatures often at close quarters from, in and around the river. As a consequence, the lower Zambezi will nearly always produce a first-
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and operate Chiawa Camp and Old Mondoro, facilitated and participated in the park’s first conservation activities. They brought the first tourists to the park in 1990, and have created an exceptional African safari Absent from the lower Zamexperience by opening access bezi are giraffe and wildebeest which are not native to the area. and establishing all the game viewing loops enjoyed within Occasional wild dog sightings the park today. are experienced, particularly in April/May and September/Octo- ber. Unfortunately, no rhinos can Although Africa is no stranger be seen, as they were poached to conservation challenges such out of existence in the 1970’s. as encroachment and poaching, Conservation Lower Zambezi’s the Lower Zambezi National ultimate conservation goal is Park is one of Africa’s best-proto reintroduce a viable rhino tected sanctuaries thanks to breeding population so watch cooperation between the safari this space! operators and department of National parks and wildlife (DNPW) through the charity Conservation Lower Zambezi (of which Chiawa Camp and Old Mondoro are founding members and anchor donors). CLZ is now a role model that has been emulated with varying degrees of success in Africa, but nowhere else stands a facility with such support, providing such effecOnly licensed operators may tive conservation activity. For conduct safaris in the area, and visitors to the park typically see instance, levels of poaching in the park have been significantly very little other human activity. reduced, whereas elsewhere in This has led to the Lower ZamAfrica this scourge is on the rise. bezi National Park becoming one of Africa’s finest wilderness experiences for tourists on all Sadly, the flood-plain eco sysbudgets, domestic and internatem is also one of Africa’s most tional. Even the most expensive fragile, so cautious management lodges in the LZNP offer Zambi- planning is required to prevent ans subsidised rates (terms and the resource and wilderness conditions apply) in an effort to aesthetic from becoming comincrease domestic tourism. promised. Consequently, Chiawa Camp and Old Mondoro are lobbying with Zambian authorTo top things off, this area is ities to seek and obtain World still unspoilt as it is relatively new to tourism and is afforded a Heritage status for the Lower high level of protection from the Zambezi National Park from UNESCO. Zambian government and local tour operators. It was declared a national park in 1983, and the Cumings Family, who own rate game viewing and birding experience, most especially when measured in the context of the scenery, habitat and variety of safari activities available.
“one of the most interesting eco-systems on the planet”
TL Z
A visitor at Chiawa Camp’s dining room
THE LOWER ZAMBEZI NATIONAL PARK
Lower Zambezi National Park from the sky
Aerial view of the Zambezi River
BEHIND THE LENS WITH EDWARD SELFE Wildlife photography is a rich and complex subject. A professional can spend a lifetime perfecting his art, trying new ideas, pushing his equipment to the limits and seeking that one moment which will make his name. Edward Selfe, a veteran guide and photographer from Zambia, suggests that whether you’re a pro or a newbie, following a few guidelines will ensure your photographs from Zambia are as great as your safari. We’ll be looking at one of his Behind the Lens tips in each edition of the magazine.
1. Focus very carefully
Modern cameras have outstanding auto-focus systems. They can obtain focus fast, accurately, and in very low light levels. But they are also highly customisable and if you don’t set them up correctly they can give unpredictable results.
For wildlife photography, using a single focus point is usually best; you can then select which of your camera’s focus points (they have between 6 and 75) you want to focus with at a given time. This will allow you to compose your image however you like. Do you want to place the lioness in the bottom left of the frame? No problem, select the focus point in the lower left of the viewfinder, place it over the lioness and snap away. Using a single focus point like this will nearly always give you better results than allowing the camera to choose which of its focus points to use – sadly cameras can’t yet tell a lion from a tree, river or bush.
Things to watch out for:
- The camera achieves focus by looking for areas of contrast (a zebra’s stripe for example) and maximising the difference between dark and light. Therefore, focusing on areas of contrast will give you more accurate focus results – e.g. choose to focus on a lion’s face rather than its flank which has only flat-coloured tawny fur. - The central focus points on your camera are more sensitive and accurate than those around the edge of the frame. Use these central ones when light levels are low (and contrast is reduced) or when your camera is having trouble achieving correct focus. - The small screen on the back of your camera can be deceptive. Zoom in on images to make sure they are in focus. - Don’t mistake focus for sharpness – if your image is out of focus, something other than your chosen subject will be in focus. If the image contains movement blur, nothing will look sharp.
Enjoy your safari!
For more photo advice, photo safari tours and beautiful images visit www.edwardselfephotography.com TZL
“Best in Africa” award-winning hospitality & guiding – the ultimate safari adventure
The Cumings family own and run what is acknowledged by many to be one of Africa’s very finest safari operations with their two sensational camps Chiawa Camp and Old Mondoro in Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park. Day and night game drives • Canoeing • Walks • River safaris • Hides • Fishing
+260 211 261588 • res@chiawa.com • www.chiawa.com Chiawa_TA72_v4.indd 1
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Safari People
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he Cumings Family own and run one of Africa’s finest safari operations with their two sensational camps: Chiawa Camp, and Old Mondoro. Each offers an authentic experiential safari, where the focus is on the bush, the river, the wildlife, and guest. Both camps offer a unique haven of warmth and hospitality, dedicated to making one’s safari dreams come true.
Zambia’s premier luxury safari camp, Chiawa, boasts an out-of-this-world setting, with spectacular views over the Zambezi River and its resident wildlife. On the other hand, the concept of Old Mondoro is simple - to provide guests with an authentic, intimate safari, centred upon the surrounding bush and local wildlife, all while not forgoing creature comforts and impeccable service. Evident throughout every aspect of Chiawa Camp and Old Mondoro is a strong conservation ethos and a commitment to community, award-winning guiding, and renowned personalised service. What motivated you to start in the business?
Visiting the South Luangwa, Kafue, Lochinvar and Lower Zambezi National Park as a child – being charged by a black rhino in the company of the late Norman Carr in the Chibembe area, camping at “Italian rocks” on the border of the Kafue National Park – all made positive lasting impressions on me that left me with but one career choice. Fondest memorable occasion in Zambia:
Taking each of my children to the bush and showing them wild elephants for the first time. Most remarkable place in Zambia:
The Lower Zambezi National Park, an area of unique and outstanding natural beauty with the river, the escarpment, the islands, the massive trees and of course the wildlife. Nowhere else offers such diversity of habitat, wildlife and game viewing activities (bush and river) in such a small area. Unfortunately, its beauty places it in much demand and the area is at risk from mismanagement, reckless tourism development, disenfranchised surrounding communities and poaching—matters that I try and assist in resolving for the long-term future sustainability of the wildlife and habitat. Contact: Grant Cumings info@chiawa.com
Fact File Name: Grant Cumings Position: Managing
Director
Company Name:
Chiawa Camp and Old Mondoro, Lower Zambezi National Park Country: Zambia
TL Z
TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
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Devil’s Pool: Guests enjoying the view of Victoria Falls from exclusive Devil’s Pool
By: Sanja Cloete-Jones Photo: Tongabezi Lodge
ictoria Falls is one of the world’s natural wonders and among the most spectacular sights in all Africa. Most visitors will see the falls from the paths of one of two national parks surrounding the largest curtain of falling water in the world. A small number of travellers will take the experience to an entirely new level.
It is not a secret exactly. But not everyone knows that the best vantage point from which to witness the true gravity of Victoria Falls is tiny Livingstone Island. Located right in the middle of the giant waterfall, the island reaches to the edge of the falls.
There is a special place in history for Livingstone Island because it is from here that Dr. David Livingstone first glimpsed the falls on the 17th of November 1855. Queen Victoria of England named the island for her intrepid explorer.
Before the 19th century, Portuguese explorers indicated the existence of the falls on their maps. The Arabs talked and wrote about the falls, calling them ‘the end of the world’ and Europeans were highly sceptical of their existence—considering the existence of such a large sheet of falling water impossible in an area that lacked mountains and valleys. Of course, local people had known the falls themselves and the little island in the middle of it all for centuries before the Scottish doctor came to “discover” it. Archaeological sites around the falls prove that humans have lived there for at least 3 million years. The Khoisan were displaced by the southern Tonga, the Matabele, the Batswana and the Makololo. Early inhabitants called the falls Mosi-o-Tunya, a name that
essentially translates to “the smoke that thunders.”
David Livingstone was very impressed indeed. He wrote:
“No one can imagine the beauty of the view from anything witnessed in England. It had never been seen before by European eyes; but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.”
While very little is known about the exact activities that took place on the island during past centuries, it is believed to have been a holy site where sacrifices took place. Swimming in the Devil’s Pool and the Angel’s Armchair during the months when the Victoria Falls dries up and the Zambezi flows at its lowest also started quite a long time ago. Maybe it was Livingstone’s words that inspired the names of the two pools! While these incredible infinity pools are inherently safe, careful precautions must be taken to prevent any unfortunate accidents. Due to this and the fact that all of Livingstone Island is a declared World Heritage site, access to the island has been restricted for the last three decades. Tongabezi Lodge, a local business, was awarded the exclusive lease to host trips to the island by the government. No more than 16 guests are allowed on the island at any one time and no permanent structures may be erected here. Visits to Livingstone Island are strictly dependent on the water levels of the Zambezi. Tongabezi offers five trips a day to Livingstone Island. A twin-engine boat carries guests through the fast-moving channels of the Zambezi, a thrilling journey. Once on the island, they are given a guided tour to learn about its history from ancient times when it served as a sacrificial site, to the present day and its World Heritage status. TL Z
TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
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Interview
MWAKA
MWITANGETI Manager - Kasaka River Lodge
From a city life to being a lodge manager at one of the popular lodges in the Lower Zambezi National Park. Where were you born and where were you raised? I was born and raised in Lusaka. I grew up in Thornpark and Northmead areas.
What’s your educational background like? Well, I went to Thornpark primary school, then my junior secondary I went to Libala secondary school then proceeded to Pemba secondary school for my senior secondary education. I then went to Copperbelt University but only went up to second year as I couldn’t clear two courses and so was excluded in my second year. I then did a self-study with Chartered Institute of Marketing (CIM) for two and half years and obtained a post – graduate diploma. So why move to Lower Zambezi National Park? Our director, Chris Liebenberg, wanted some more Zambian managers to work in his company and I was recommended to him by Flossie our general manager for Chongwe Safaris as I had
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worked with her at Chainama Hotel. I joined in 2010 as an assistant manager at Chongwe River Camp and then at the beginning of 2011 was promoted to manager for Kasaka River Lodge. Briefly tell us about your work? It’s general, ensuring guest enjoyment, responsible for the staff, infrastructure, basically how everything looks at the lodge.
What have you most enjoyed about working here? The nature part of it. It’s so peaceful. Also the visitors - you meet people from different parts of the world.
Any word of advice to Zambian readers? They should expand their spectrum and get into tourism. If we get more involved, tourism will improve, because there is a Zambian voice speaking about conservation. TL Z
What to do
What to do...
...in the event of an attack by
By: John Coppinger Photo: Edward Selfe
A
s one of my favourite animals, I always feel that the buffalo is unfairly maligned by its reputation as one of the most dangerous of all African animals. This probably emanates from hunters’ tales – they are highly sought after by trophy collectors or those wishing to prove their manhood. However they are enormously tough animals and difficult to kill efficiently and a wounded buffalo is indeed an aggressive and cunning adversary. Consequently, stories of hunters becoming the hunted abound.
But a large herd of buffalo is not dissimilar to a herd of cattle and poses little threat to an observer with no ill intent. With several hundred keen bovine eyes, ears and noses on the alert, it would be almost impossible to approach within dangerous limits anyway. Older bulls, or Kakuli as they are known in the
buffalo
Luangwa Valley, break away from the large herds and form small bachelor groups in dambo (low lying) areas close to the river. One is more likely to stumble unwittingly upon one of these animals in the long grass and this can lead to a potentially dangerous situation. Whilst they will usually flee, these older bulls are more inclined to be sick or wounded and consequently more bad tempered and aggressive. If a serious attack should ensue, then one’s only hope is to hastily shin the nearest tree or at least hide behind a large trunk or termite mound. If there is no such refuge at hand, then one’s future is in very serious jeopardy! Four tips:
1. Do not hunt buffalo. 2. Avoid walking in tall grass. 3. If walking in such areas is unavoidable then walk noisily (eg. talking loudly or clapping hands) and preferably downwind, so as not to surprise any old Kakuli. 4. Take refuge up or behind a tree or termite mound. TL Z
THE OF MUTINONDO WILDERNESS By Frank Willems Photos: Mutinondo Wilderness
Some places you just fall in love with. Mutinondo Wilderness is such a place. Hidden in the Muchinga Highlands between the Bangweulu Wetlands and Luangwa Valley, this private nature reserve ranks among Africa’s most peaceful and inspiring destinations.
The stunning scenery of the reserve is dominated by huge rounded granite boulders, often called Whaleback Mountains, rising up to some 250 meters above the miombo woodlands and interspersing dambo grasslands. Between the mountains run forest-lined streams forming rapids and waterfalls. The lodge, with four spacious chalets and several campsites, sits on top of one of the mountains, overlooking the reserve. The bar and restaurant also offer spectacular views and are open to all guests. All buildings are unique in design, built from rocks and other local materials, blending in perfectly with the surroundings.
The granite boulders serve as a testimony to the forces that shaped the rift, along a line from northern Botswana through Zambia all the way up to the Middle East. It is here that the two African continental plates meet. Some 1.5 billion years ago, huge balls of extremely hot liquid magma (lava) pushed their way up between the edges of these plates. Cooling down halted their march, but in Mutinondo they finally came to the surface a few million years ago. Around that time, the two continental plates moved towards each other, pushing up and tilting their edges, forming highlands and exposing the underground granite balls. When the plates moved away from each other again, cracks formed which would become, among others, the Luangwa Valley. Walking up one of the mountains is a very popular activity in the reserve. The breath-taking views from the top are unforgettable. Combined with an extensive network of signposted trails, the area is the ultimate destination for hikers.
GETTING THERE Mutinondo Wilderness lies along the Great North Road towards Tanzania and Tanganyika, some
seven hours’ drive from Lusaka or the Copper-
belt. More information is found at www.mutinon-
dozambia.com and www.facebook.com/mutinondozambia/ , or email info@mutinondozambia. com.
The perfect place to relax!
Unescorted hiking is perfectly safe due to the absence of potentially dangerous animals. Although wildlife is not the main attractant, visitors can see some of the special mammals of the area. (I would list some mammals here for clarity.) Millennia-old rock paintings form another attraction. Enthusiastic hikers should also certainly enquire about guided overnight hikes from Mutinondo into the Luangwa Valley, descending through the stunningly beautiful escarpment. Less fanatic hikers can opt for a leisurely walk along the river via the many small but attractive waterfalls and rapids. Few will resist a swim in the crystal clear (croc and hippo free!) waters of the numerous pools. Canoes and mountain bikes further add to the range of free activities on offer, making it an ideal destination for children of all ages. Mutinondo Wilderness is an absolute heaven for nature enthusiasts. The reserve is famous for many special birds such as bar-winged weaver
Huge granite boulders dominate the stunning scenery of Mutinondo Wilderness
and chestnut-headed flufftail. No less than 1,300 plants are found on the reserve, several of which occur only here. An astounding 100 species of orchids colour the grasslands and woodlands in October to March.
Duiker, bushbuck and warthog are regularly seen. Klipspringer and bush hyrax (“Dassie”) occupy the rocks, while roan antelope and reedbuck occur in the dambos and the secretive sitatunga antelope, otters and chequered elephant shrew along the streams. Of great excitement was the finding of a species of frog new to science in 2015. Many visitors will also vividly remember the numerous colourful rainbow skinks on the rocks. Despite all this, you wouldn’t be the first to find yourself just unwinding at the lodge, breathing in the perfect peace that surrounds you. Whatever you’re looking for, there’s a great risk you will fall in love with the place. TL Z
PLANNING YOUR ZAMBIAN SAFARI - Part Two
I
n the last edition of this magazine I laid out a few thoughts to consider during the initial stages of planning a safari in Zambia. We are now going to assume that your trip of a lifetime has been booked and on this page I will detail a few points to help fine tune your preparations and ensure that everything goes smoothly.
VISAS – For some destinations you will need to obtain visas before travel which can mean sending your passport away, never a comfortable feeling just before a trip. Not so with Zambia, whilst it is possible to obtain visas from Zambian Missions around the world (and a very small list of nationalities will need to) for most visitors one simply arrives in Zambia and buys a visa at the airport. Single entry visas will cost $50 per person.
HEALTH – It’s always hard to advise people on this subject and if you are remotely concerned then a quick chat with your local doctor should put your mind at ease.
For several years the South African authorities required travelers arriving from Zambia to have a Yellow Fever inoculation, this requirement was dropped in early 2015 so there is now no need for that jab.
Malaria is caused by a mosquito borne parasite and is endemic in Zambia. There are many myths about malaria and most people you speak to will have an opinion. One can contract malaria at any time of the year and in virtually any area of Zambia. The best precautions are physical barriers in the early evenings and at night, long trousers and sleeves with a splash of repellant will usually do the trick but most visitors from overseas would be advised to take some form of prophylactic. The incubation period for the malarial parasite is 12 – 14 days so the time to watch for flu-like symptoms is often after you return home. In an attempt to regain some perspective I must explain that the worst health problems most visitors will face come from our lovely African sun and common sense is usually the best protection there.
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MONEY – The currency in Zambia is the Kwacha and at time of print there are just over 10 of them to the US Dollar and about 15 to the pound. There are plenty of ATM’s to be found in all the usual places so that is the easiest way of obtaining local currency but I would always advise keeping a supply of cash US dollars with you as well since these are accepted in most tourist facilities. It is never a good idea to rely on just one credit card when travelling in Africa so bring a selection if you have one.
WHAT TO PACK – this is an important part of planning any trip but particularly so when you are visiting remote areas of a country like Zambia, once on safari you won’t find it easy to pick up that little item you left at home. The baggage allowance on most domestic flights is 23kgs. or 50lbs. which is quite generous but don’t make the mistake of bringing too much as most safari camps offer a daily and complimentary laundry service. When considering a wardrobe for the bush try and steer towards khaki or neutral colours and remember that dark is better than light when it comes to blending in. A sweater or light jacket is useful at most times of the year and a warmer one will be necessary if you are travelling in June or July. If your holiday includes some walking try not to go overboard on large boots that you will only wear for a few hours, comfort is the most important consideration so training shoes are usually preferable. TL Z
Nick Aslin runs Zambian Ground Handlers specializing in the preparation of safari itineraries in Zambia, he has been involved in the industry for over 25 years.
By: Jake da Motta Photos: Tribal Textiles
“The textiles started from simple beginnings, under winterthorn trees in a small safari camp on the banks of the Luangwa Rivhe South Luangwa Nation- er. We set up some makeshift al Park in Zambia is world-retables on logs and started worknowned for superb game viewing with art technique books ing in a remote and beautiful with trial and error, with time wilderness area. As a tourist and patience. From our limited visiting the park, the last thing bush resources—a wood-fired you would expect to find there is kiln and running water in the a creative, hand-painted textiles shallows of the river out of the workshop producing stunning, reach of crocodiles, Tribal slowly high quality home furnishings. emerged. Inspiration for our But that’s exactly what Tribal early designs came from the Textiles is. environment and the wildlife on the doorstep of this remote little Tribal was started twenty five industry. Tribal grew slowly years ago this year by director with the support of local safari and owner Gillie Lightfoot, who operators and tourism. Orders fills in the story... were made on the HF radio, in those days of no phones or
T
emails, and delivered by me in my Land Cruiser by driving 8 hours through the bush to the nearest camps.”
The technique used is a relatively simple starch resist method derived from Mali mud cloth. Individual designs are drawn freehand onto cotton with a flour and water starch solution. The starched pieces are then dried in the African sun before being hand-painted by local artists. The paints are mixed by hand using primary pigments and a base emulsion. Colours are matched by eye to swatches created by Gillie in different colourways. After painting, the pieces are baked, which makes the dye colour-fast and fully washable.
Following cooking, each piece is washed and the softened starch designs are carefully scraped off to reveal the finished product. The pieces are then sewn up into finished items ready for sale.
let in Mfuwe and an established export market, Tribal has recently launched an online shop, shipping around the world direct from their Mfuwe HQ. It’s an exciting development for the company and a challenge being
Today, Tribal Textiles employs over 100 local people and exports to more than 20 countries worldwide. The company is one of the biggest employers in the area, providing sustainable employment and training in an area where jobs are scarce. They also co-fund the local community school, Malimba, and support the local Hanada Orphanage.
so remote, but with the majority of retail businesses going online they are moving with the times and bringing Luangwa to the world.
that is opening up new interiors markets for them. She has also expanded to create a sister company Jackal and Hide, that works with local Zambian leather and artisans. Watch this space for the next chapter….. TL Z
“The company is one of the biggest employers in the area, providing sustainable employment and training in an area where jobs are scarce”
As well as a thriving retail out-
Gillie continues to work on new ranges with Tribal as they develop different techniques and systems that keep things fresh and modern. At the end of last year they released a vibrant new hand-screen printed range
www.tribaltextiles.co.zm http://shop.tribaltextiles.co.zm www.jackalandhide.net
SOUTH LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK A VOLUNTEER’S PERSPECTIVE By: Flora Strachan Photos: Flora Strachan
I have the fondest memories of South Luangwa National Park and the wildlife that surrounded Croc Valley Camp. I was lucky whilst in Zambia (when? Should enter date here for reference) to see some amazing wildlife and so many new, exotic animals. I’ve heard South Luangwa National Park referred to as Africa’s last great wilderness and in my experience, I cannot claim anything different. Mountains and acacia trees mark out the horizon of the park, whilst in the forefront, the glistening Luangwa River stands out as the only colour against the sandy landscape. There are no fences in the park, leaving the Luangwa Valley unspoilt and untouched. The abundance of animals and wild species is staggering. The leopard population is vast and South Luangwa is said to be the best national park in Africa in which to see them. It was not uncommon for our guests to come away having seen more leopards than giraffes! To my amazement, I had three separate wild dog sightings and witnessed a large pack with pups playing and hunting. I never found the park too touristy; it was not uncommon to have a sighting all to myself. The park is not excessively built up either. You can think you are in the middle of nowhere, when unexpectedly you happen across a safari lodge. Their manicured lawns, spacious verandas, and private chalets speak out against the natural landscape, but not in an obtrusive way. I found that the balance of the natural park and the tourist accommodations ran in perfect equilibrium with neither one overruling the other. I will never forget my first morning in Africa. Driving to the village for the very first time, I rounded a corner and suddenly saw a giraffe standing serenely under a tree— tall and graceful eating from the branches.
Nor will I forget the complete excitement and breath-taking moments of the game drives: the smells of rotting flesh alerting the senses to the possible chance of viewing a recent kill, the heart-quickening moment when a lioness sinks her teeth into a scampering zebra or antelope. Thrill over and continuing through the park, you can often spot a movement in the shadows or a flutter in a tree. Eyes peeled, the viewers of this strange animal kingdom sit quietly in a dusty vehicle—alert and watching out for something spectacular. I loved being in the park and experiencing this thrill, but I also loved the complete contrast and slow pace of the wildlife—the trudge of elephants and the lolloping gallop of the giraffes. I found the different species of birds fascinating: the soaring fish eagles overhead, groups of carmine bee-eaters fluttering around on their branches, and the beauty of the lilac-breasted rollers. All in all, South Luangwa is without a doubt the most beautiful place I have had the fortune to visit; the place has a way of getting under your skin. It is breath-taking, it is natural and it issoothing. I will always picture a dusty oasis filled with herds of buffalo and trotting warthogs and the red sun setting over the river turning the park to purple.
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Helping Hand The Luangwa Valley has long-faced the huge challenge of finding access to clean and safe drinking water. But recently, the BushCamp Company has put smiles on the faces of the people in the region by sinking boreholes in various communities in Mfuwe. From the time the project started in 2013, a total of thirty-two boreholes have been sunk and more are being sunk this year. This has provided families and children with convenient access to clean and safe water very close to their homes. One community which has benefit-
Mkasanga School Remote Africa Safaris in South Luangwa National Park helps support education in the local community of Chinyanta village. They support the local school Mkasanga primary by donating books and stationary to pupils termly and the total number of stationary donated depends on the number of learners enrolled per term. Each pupil from grade one to four receives seven A5 40 pages books and two pencils, those from grade five to seven receive seven A4 40 pages books each, two pens and two pencils. Grade eights and nines receive A4 80 pages books each, two pens and two pencils. This has greatly assisted the community in that most parents in the village are unable to buy books for their children. The school has also benefited as they no longer experience situations where learners do not write in class because of not having books, pencils and pens.
For a number of years now, the BushCamp Company has been working closely with local communities in Mfuwe to help improve children’s education. Currently, they are sponsoring a total of 105 pupils at the Mfuwe Secondary School. Dennis Tembo and Agness Banda are two of the beneficiaries of the educational support and they spoke to Travel and Leisure Zambia. Dennis Tembo Dennis began to receive assistance in grade 11, when his parents could not manage to pay his school fees. Now in grade 12, he can concentrate on the long hours of study that his boarding school requires. His academic performance in class has improved as a result of this support. Agness Banda Agness has received sponsorship from the BushCamp Company since eighth grade. School fees, uniforms, books, and money to buy groceries are all taken care of in the sponsorship and this has enabled her to achieve her dream of getting an education.
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ed from this project is the Muzenje Community. The borehole in this community was sunk in November 2015 and before this, people of the community used to walk about 20km to the nearest school to fetch clean water. Anna Sakala, who has been living in this community for more than thirty years, had this to say about the Bush Camp’s efforts: “Thank you to the BushCamp Company for bringing clean and safe drinking water to our door steps. This has made it easier for us to prepare food on time and also to wash clothes.”
Mukambi Safaris offers three magnificent camps in Kafue National Park, one of the largest areas of unspoiled wilderness. Each camp has its own character and style in different areas of Kafue National Park, making them completely....unique by nature. We offer attractive packages where you can visit all of our three camps.
Mukambi Safari Lodge
Fig Tree Bush Camp
Mukambi Plains Camp
Mukambi Safari Lodge is overlooking the Kafue River and is the gateway to Kafue National Park.
This camp lies in an undiscovered part of the park on a Shishamba River lagoon. The only camp in a range of 30 km - it offers a unique out-of-Africa atmosphere.
Mukambi Plains Camp has 8 beds available in a classic bush camp on the famous Busanga Plains.
Unique by nature
+260 (0)974 424013 | reservations@mukambi.com | mukambi.com
