TRAVEL & LEISURE
ZAMBIA OCT - DEC 2016 | EDITION 5
ZAMBIA’S “COAST”
The longest freshwater lake in the world
Tracking the
ELUSIVE
African Pitta
What is RESPONSIBLE TOURISM? We all have a role to play
YOUR CHOICE OUR ROUTES
DURBAN JEKI JOHANNESBURG LILONGWE LIVINGSTONE LUSAKA
FLY FOR HALF PRICE 50% DISCOUNT ON ALL ROUTES FOR PASSENGERS UP TO THE AGE OF 17
*Terms and conditions apply. Offer valid for children between the ages of 2 and 17
KASAMA MFUWE NDOLA ROYAL SOLWEZI
TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA / OCT - DEC 2016
CONTENTS Features
Family Travel in Zambia 06 By Mindy Roberts
How Children Benefit from Boreholes By Mahina Perrot
What to do if attacked by lion By John Coppinger
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Zambia’s “Coast” By Kathy Mills
What is Responsible Tourism By Paul Barnes
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Five Mintues with Ntimba Zulu 26 By Andrew Muswala
Zambia’s Mr Waterfalls By Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson
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Mfuwe’s Hidden Treasure 28 By Janet Mwanza
Get the best out of your pictures in the dark 16 By Peter Geraerdts
Tracking the Elusive African Pitta By Mahina Perrot
Children in the Wilderness By Nirvani Pillay
The Zambian Carnivore Programme By Matthew Becker
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Advertisers Index I.F.C.
The Bushcamp Company
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Mukambi Safaris
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Proflight
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Edward Selfe Photography
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Flatdogs Camp
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Track and Trail River Camp
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Remote Africa Safaris
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Lake Safari Lodge
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Ila Safari Lodge
I.B.C.
Kafue River Lodge
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Norman Carr Safaris
B.C.
Pioneer Lodge, Camp & Safaris
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Ndole Bay Lodge Photo credit: Mukambi Safaris
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TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
TRAVEL & LEISURE
A word from the MD ZAMBIA Publisher Safari Magazine
Editor & Managing Director Andrew Muswala andrew@zambiatravelmag.com Sub-Editor Kathy G Mills kathygmills@gmail.com
Layout and Art Director Gemma Beardsall gemmakb@hotmail.co.uk Consultant Jo Pope popejo@gmail.com
Subscriptions ads@zambiatravelmag.com +260 955 108 536 / +260 967 308 711 www.zambiatravelmag.com
Welcome!
Travel and Leisure Zambia celebrated its one-year anniversary on September 1st of this year. It has been a great journey since our first publication. The magazine has been growing every quarter, increasing its print run and reaching more readers. We would like to thank every single company that advertised their products with us in our first year of publication. In this issue:
Kathy G. Mills introduces readers to Lake Tanganyika, revealing its biodiversity and unparalled scope of adventure activities. Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson profiles artist Quentin Allen—Zambia’s own “Mr. Waterfalls.”
Mindy Roberts explores family-friendly safari camps in Zambia, demonstrating the multitude of offerings for multi-generational travelers.
Other voices in this quarter’s issue of Travel and Leisure Zambia include Lusaka resident Janet Mwanza detailing the hidden treasures of Mfuwe, and Mahina Perrot reporting on bird watching and tracking the elusive African Pitta. Edward Selfe returns with more useful safari photography tips, and Paul Barns provides the latest news on responsible tourism. All this, plus stunning photography, in-depth interviews, and our hottest travel tips. Happy Reading!
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Contributors Paul Barnes, Janet Mwanza, Mahina Perrot, Edward Selfe, Mindy Roberts, Kathy G. Mills, Peter Geraerdts, Tafika Camp, Nirvani Pillay, The BushCamp Company, Wilderness Safaris, Kasanka Trust, Edjan Van der Heidi, John Coppinger, Matthew Becker, Ndole Bay Lodge, Nicky Dunningtone – Jefferson Printers Impumelelo Print Solutions (Pty) Ltd Unit 7 Kings Court 52 Mineral Crescent, Crown Ext.5 Johannesburg South Africa +27 11 839 4414
Copyright Copyright © All right for material appearing in this magazine belongs to Travel and Leisure Zambia and / or the individual contributors. No part of this magazine may be reproduced either without the written consent of the publishers or with due acknowledgment. On the cover
Wild dog chasing a Puku - South Luangwa National Park Photo credit: Peter Geraerdts
TRAVEL & LEISURE
ZAMBIA
Advertise in Zambia’s onl y dedicated travel magazine * it is very well received & attracts large numbers of readers every quarter. * Distributed domestically via tourism establishments, Government offices, corporates and internationally to key tour operators. If you would like to advertise your position in the market: ads@zambiatravelmag.com / andrew@zambiatravelmag.com www.zambiatravelmag.com
Family Travel in Zambia
Norman Carr Safaris’ Chinzombo has a family villa perfect for kids sharing with parents
By: Mindy Roberts Photos: Norman Carr Safaris
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haring extraordinary travel experiences with your family is sometimes difficult. Photos and even video don’t do the moments justice. When trying to explain these events to your nearest and dearest, you sometimes get glazed looks. I had been living in Zambia for some time before my family first visited. When I shared photos, I felt they never really ‘got it’. They made all the right noises as I showed them yet another lion or elephant photo, but I could see from their eyes that they weren’t really lighting up with understanding and enthusiasm.
“Safari is one of the easiest holidays to share with family”
I had this very conversation with a first time safari couple last week, who said they had to bring their teenaged children out next year as they weren’t sure how to explain their recent experiences to their family. Spurring this decision was watching another family also staying at Chinzombo, who were all enjoying their first safari together. The kids were 20, 17, 16 and eight. Safari is one of the easiest holidays to share with family. Today, Zambia offers fabulous accommo-
dation specifically with families in mind—from parents with young, teenage and grown children to multi-generational travel. Family villas provide shared communal space for meals, but separate bedrooms and private spaces to relax in—it’s the best of both worlds! Private pools distract the kids during siesta time while parents and grandparents can relax over a good book or simply watch the wildlife wander past the deck. Key to family travel are the Zambian guides and staff; they love kids. The guides are happy to teach the next generation of safari enthusiasts and wildlife conservationists, taking them on ‘poo walks’, identifying tracks and scratch marks, and imparting interesting information about animal behaviour.
There are also financial incentives to travel with family. Travelers under 18 have special children’s rates on Proflight – kids travel at 50% of full rate, plus taxes (www.flyzambia.com).
After having seven of my closest family visit from Melbourne over the years and seeing them bitten by the safari bug, with many of them returning to Zambia three or four times, it’s certainly brought us closer together over shared memories and close encounters.
Time is precious, as is family, and I’m glad I’ve been able to share such special moments on safari with mine. TL Z
Below: A guest sharing her son’s first view of hippos, in the Luangwa River
Above: Enjoying breakfast together in the middle of the bush creates lasting memories
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What to do
What to do...
...in the event of an attack by
lion
By: John Coppinger Photo: Edward Selfe
O
ur guests are always surprised by the way lions react when approached on foot – their inclination to turn and flee seems unfitting behaviour from the King of the Jungle. However, they have learnt over the aeons that humans are indeed a deadly adversary and one to be avoided. Walking safaris are a relatively new concept and lions still perceive humans on foot as a threat. Conversely, as the biggest tourist attraction in all African wildlife preserves, lions have become quite habituated to vehicles and can be approached to within a few feet. Indeed, they will often appear totally oblivious of any other presence in such circumstances, despite the excited chattering of the vehicle’s occupants and the clicking and whirring of their cameras. They have learnt through experience that the vehicles don’t harm them in any way. As is the case with most animals, lion behaviour varies from region to region. When I first went to Zambia’s North Luangwa National Park, it was still virtually devoid of tourists or any other human activity. I was accustomed to relatively habituated lions and was astounded at the aggressive nature of these wilder animals. It was most disconcerting when building Mwaleshi Camp to have a lioness standing 50 metres away, growling threateningly at the intrusion for several hours in broad daylight! Many of our early encounters with lions there developed into mock charges.
Being charged by a lion when you are on foot is a most frightening experience. It is extremely difficult to refrain from bolting, which is likely to prompt an attacker to follow through. A charge is usually accompanied by a deep growling, rasping sound which reverberates through the core of one’s being. It is very important to stand one’s ground, perhaps retreating very slowly, but to continue facing the lion whilst clapping hands, shouting and waving one’s arms about to look bigger. Fortunately most charges are mock attacks and if one adheres to these basic rules then it is unlikely that a charge will be followed through.
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Different sets of circumstances also trigger different behavioural patterns. During courtship, male lions are often extremely aggressive and should not be closely approached, even in a vehicle. A lioness with cubs is naturally protective and should be given lots of space. Being predominantly nocturnal, lions lose their inherent fear of man at night and become much more dangerous and prone to attack.
Hot tips:
1. Keep your distance. Do not approach too closely, especially in the case of mating lions or lionesses with cubs. 2. Be more cautious at night. Avoid camping in areas of high lion density. If there is no option, then maintain a watch throughout the night. 3. Make a noise and look bigger. In the event of a lion charge, clap your hands, shout, and flail your arms about to make yourself look bigger. 4. Hold your ground. Never run or turn your back in the face of a lion attack. Ila Safari Lodge Advert Half Page.pdf
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“R
esponsible Tourism” is a term we often see on lodges’ websites as a proclamation of a sound product. It has become a marketing point for people as well as a practice. In 2002, there was a conference in Cape Town on sustainable tourism. The meeting resulted in the Cape Town Declaration, which states:
“Responsible tourism creates better places for people to live in and better places to visit.” Whilst this is a broad term, it does encapsulate all that is necessary. Whichever capacity of the industry you are in—operator, lodge, guide, tourist, government body or local community—we all have to play a role, hand in hand. We can certainly be proud in Zambia of a general strong ethic towards responsible tourism. Zambia hosts one of the largest networks of owner-operated lodges in Africa. These owners are highly knowledgeable about the needs of the communities they work in, so they can offer their support to specific projects
that will have a direct and lasting impact. Though charitable institutions offer valuable support as well, they often must use a considerable portion of their funds to pay for staff bills and other extra expenses. Local operators are free from this burden, which allows their contributions to take a direct route to those who will benefit. What can operators do to be responsible?
Larger operations may be able to take on major projects such as drilling boreholes, erecting schools, or running programs. Operations working with smaller budgets can donate their time to community activities.
“we all have to play a role” At Pioneer Lodge Camp and Safaris, we have undertaken a number of community projects. We organize football competitions and sporting events. We maintain a crime prevention team to assist the Zambian police force, which is massively underfunded in our area. We fund schools
WHAT IS RESPON
By: Paul Barnes Photos: Pioneer Camp
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Muluse Pioneers Football Team Fundraising Walk
NSIBLE TOURISM? not only in our local area, but also in remote communities. We currently fund two students through university. Most importantly, the capital put into these projects is quite small compared to the results they yield. It is truly a great return on investment. How can communities be responsible?
It is not only up to the operators to provide the environment for responsible tourism. Communities play a vital role in this effort too. Reducing litter, for example, provides instant and highly visible benefits. It leads to a better habitat for the flora and fauna, and makes the area more attractive to residents and visitors. Continuing education helps communities learn how they can preserve their natural resources and encourages them to take an active role in managing parks and other public spaces. When residents are empowered to choose which lodges and tours will operate in their area, they will usually pick sustainable projects that protect the lands and provide op-
portunities for the local population. That is good for everyone! How can tourists be responsible?
This is easy—come to Zambia with an open heart. Respect the local laws, be adaptable, and immerse yourself in the culture. Remember that apart from the wildlife, there are communities full of warm and welcoming people. Connecting with them will deepen your connection with the country. If you have charitable giving in mind, supplies of all kinds can be put to good use right away. Assemble kits with first-aid supplies, or bring sporting equipment such as footballs or baseballs. Pencils, notebooks, backpacks, or other school necessities are always appreciated. And finally, try to be conscious of the fact that you are part of a special network of people that are devoted to the same goal: making Zambia a great place to live in and visit. TL Z
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ESSENTIAL ZAMBIA Language: English is the official language. Time Zone: GMT+2
International dialling code: +260
Visas: Visas are needed for most visitors to Zambia. They are avail-
able from Zambian embassies abroad or at Kenneth Kaunda International airport and other points of entry.
Health: Malaria occurs in many parts of the country, especially in
the low-lying areas where the game parks are often situated so malaria prophylactics are recommended. Yellow fever certificates are required if you are travelling from an infected area. Medical insurance, including medevac, is recommended.
Safety: Zambia is known for friendliness and great hospitality but like anywhere in the world, especially where there is high unem-
ployment, it is wise to remain vigilant at all times. Be aware of pick-
pockets and thieves in the towns and cities. Do not leave your belongings unattended and when in public, and carry only the minimum
amount of cash that you need. Always lock a vehicle and do not leave items visible in a parked vehicle.
Money: The unit of currency is the Zambian Kwacha (ZMW). Foreign currency (US dollars are best) can be changed into kwacha at banks and there are foreign exchange bureaus in most towns. Visa, and to
a lesser extent MasterCard, are accepted by many tourist hotels and
can also be used to draw local currency at ATMs in the major towns.
Getting there: Emirates (www.emirates.com), Kenya Airways (www. kenya-airways.com), Ethiopian Airlines (www.ethiopianairlines.
com), and South African Airways (www.flysaa.com) fly to Lusaka,
linking Europe and USA via Dubai, Nairobi, Addis Ababa or Johannesburg/Cape Town.
Getting around: Once in Lusaka, internal flights can connect you
to most major destinations in Zambia (www.flyzambia.com). Local
buses are cheap and frequent. There are also luxury coach services. Weather: Zambian weather is essentially divided between two
seasons: the dry season from May to October, and the rainy season
from November to April. May to August marks Zambia’s winter when it is warm and pleasant during the day and very cool at night. During this time it can be cold on game viewing vehicles in the early mor-
ning, especially on the plateau. September to November is a period of hot and dry weather- in the valleys, temperatures can reach up to 40 degrees Celsius. Around November or December, Zambia experien-
ces intermittent showers and storms that usher in the rainy season, keeping the climate warm and humid through April.
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TAFIKA BEAN SALAD
1 can butter beans plus 1 can red beans both drained and rinsed 1 can baked beans 1 diced onion 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp crushed garlic 2 tbsp tomato paste 2 tbsp water
• Fry onion in a little oil to soften and colour. Add the spices and herbs and fry till fragrant. • Stir in the tomato paste and water.
• Remove from heat and add the beans. • Mix and serve garnished with fresh coriander.
From the four Tafika waiters who are responsible for preparing all the salads (along with a lot of other stuff!!) Edson, Edward, Chinthu and Chintu.
ZAMBIA’S MR. WATERFALLS:
QUENTIN ALLEN Brush Strokes and Bush Lore By: Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson Photos: Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson
School of Arts and Crafts in London, qualifying as a silversmith and gaining a degree in threedimensional design. He returned to Zambia in 1979 to work at Tengu Copper Products in Kitwe. Quentin’s family left Zambia in 1986 to live in the UK and he followed, only to return after six months to Zambia, where he has lived ever since.
He moved from Kitwe to Lusaka in 1990 to work with ZAL Holdings, followed by a partnership with Zambia Gemstones. As a silversmith he had worked on jewellery, spoons, bowls and silver first met Quentin Allen in the bar at Pioneer sculptures on wood, but had become more involved Safari Camp. He was drinking a cold Mosi beer, his in painting, favouring landscapes, using pastels, characteristic bush hat clamped tightly on his head. acrylics, watercolours and oils. Eventually he decided to devote himself full-time to painting, We were thrown together by Zambia-based Leslie setting up a studio in his home and concentrating Nevison of Mama Tembo Tours, who fine-tuned my solely on brushwork, and holding exhibitions to three-week itinerary. I had accompanied Leslie on showcase his bold, illuminative canvases. a recce to Gabon in 2014 after meeting her once. Now I was to set off again with a companion about This artist’s brush evokes the spirit of Zambia; whom I knew nothing except that he was an artist some works are joyous with bright colours, others of considerable repute. calm with the muted shades of dawn and dusk. You can almost hear the cry of a fish eagle, the cheep Quentin was more than an outstanding artist. of a tiny bird, the trumpeting of an elephant or the He was a superb guide, a true bushman in every thunderous roar of waterfalls as his subjects speak sense, with a remarkable knowledge of Zambia through his canvases. – particularly its waterfalls – and the flora and fauna. He was also an experienced driver. Together Quentin’s work came to the attention of Ilse we explored northern Zambia, wondering at Mwanza, resulting in their co-authorship of two wildlife and rock art, he with his sketchbook and books, Guide to Little-Known Waterfalls of Zambia, me with my camera. Together Mr. Waterfalls and I Volumes I and II, published in 2010 and 2014. marvelled at the cascading cataracts of Kundalila “Ilse is also a cataractophile,” he told me, and she Falls on the Kaombe River. has accompanied him on many of his waterfall expeditions. I needed to know more about my unfailingly cheerful, thoughtful, patient, amusing, modest and In 2011, Quentin spent a year camping and hiking, delightfully eccentric companion. exploring eastern Zambia’s Muchinga Escarpment. Often accompanied by Matthew Mandandi, they Quentin Allen was born in Bulawayo in 1957, the searched for more waterfalls to collect material second of four brothers. His father worked for for the second book. This book contains intriguing Rhodesian Railways and Quentin was only two anecdotal accounts and information, illustrated when the family moved to Northern Rhodesia, now with beautiful photographs and Quentin’s evocative Zambia. They settled in Kitwe, on the Copperbelt, sketches. “It was wonderful to watch the seasons where the young Quentin grew up and started his changing, always seeing new things, sketching new education. He went on to school in South Africa’s features and exploring new areas,” he reflected. Eastern Cape, followed by Wellingborough School in England. It was at Wellingborough that his art I asked what inspired his love of the outdoors. He teacher noticed his artistic potential. “I always replied that his family spent many happy times drew, and I used to make up stories and illustrate camping and he inherited his consuming passion them,” he told me. for waterfalls from his father. “I’ve never grown up,” he said. “With a childhood like that, who wants to?” After school he studied in the UK at Sheffield I’m so glad he hasn’t. Polytechnic Art College and the Camberwell
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TL Z
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Access to and from the paintings at the Mwela rock art site near Kasama can sometimes be a bit tricky.
Quentin in his studio, surrounded by his artwork.
In the Bangweulu Wetlands, the best way to view the birdlife and scenery is from a canoe.
Enjoy your evening safaris in South Luangwa and get the best out of your pictures
in the dark By: Peter Geraerdts Photos: Peter Geraerdts, Track and Trail River Camp
L
odges in Zambia are quite unique in that they offer evening safaris/night drives. This is a game viewing activity that takes place after dark, with a spotter who handles a powerful spot light. It’s important to avoid shining this light on animals that are usually active during the day (diurnal animals), and instead, identify the nocturnal animals. During evening safaris we observe animals such as lion, leopard, hyena, genet, civet, mongoose, and owl as they go about their lives under the cover of darkness. Picture (left): ISO 51000 – Aperture: F6.3 – shutter speed 1/200 sec
Photographing these nocturnal animals when it’s dark can be a challenge. The biggest issue people are faced with is the poor performance of cameras in low light/ dark conditions. Many automatic camera modes struggle to capture sharp images, as the shutter speed will reduce when there is little light available. These long exposures increase the risk of getting blurry pictures.
Picture (Above): ISO: 32000 – Aperture F 4 – Shutter speed 1/500 sec - Increase your ISO until you have the right shutter speed, but with the aim to keep the digital image noise to a minimum. The higher the ISO, the more obvious the digital image noise (grain) becomes. - Provide adequate camera support, which is essential during long exposures. It could be a monopod, tripod or beanbag, as long as the camera remains still. - Incorporate just a bit of ambient light either from the sun or moon, or the help of the spotlight.
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Picture (Above): ISO 16000 – Aperture f5 – shutter speed 1/100 sec
Tip: If you stop for a good sighting and there is more than one vehicle around, take the opportunity
to experiment with other sources of light. Switch off the spotlight from the car you are in and use the light from your neighbour who is pointing the light on the subject from a different angle. It often gives much better results than the direct light from your own car. Low light allows you to experiment with lighting angles, movement, and compositions that would be unachievable in daylight conditions. It can allow you to create some interesting images if you are prepared to experiment.
D I S C O V E R a tropical paradise in Zambia
lake tanganyika Ndole Bay Lodge is an exquisite owner managed lodge on the shores of Lake Tanganyika, Zambia. The lodge is situated just outside Nsumbu National Park amongst lush tropical gardens, opening onto an exclusively private beach. Luxury beach front chalets through to a gorgeous campsite make the Tanganyika dream affordable to all and there is no comparable experience than through Ndole Bay. We offer guests their choice of a personal Tanganyika immersion, from the untamed wilds of Nsumbu National Park, SCUBA diving with the world’s greatest diversity of freshwater life, angling for feisty fish found nowhere else to relaxing on the beach with a cocktail or immersing in the culture of the local peoples of Tanganyika that has not changed in millennia. We live for Tanganyika and there is no greater reward than sharing this astounding destination with our guests.
Website: www.ndolebaylodge.com
Contact: info@ndolebaylodge.com TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
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Mukambi Safaris offers three magnificent camps in Kafue National Park, one of the largest areas of unspoiled wilderness. Each camp has its own character and style in different areas of Kafue National Park, making them completely....unique by nature. We offer attractive packages where you can visit all of our three camps.
+260 (0)974 424013 | reservations@mukambi.com | mukambi.com
Mukambi Safari Lodge Mukambi Safari Lodge is overlooking the Kafue River and is the gateway to Kafue National Park.
Fig Tree Bush Camp
This camp lies in an undiscovered part of the park on a Shishamba River lagoon. The only camp in a range of 30 km - it offers a unique out-of-Africa atmosphere.
Mukambi Plains Camp Mukambi Plains Camp has 8 beds available in a classic bush camp on the famous Busanga Plains.
Responsible Tourism
Children in the Wilderness - Zambia
By: Nirvani Pillay Photos: Wilderness Safaris
T
he children of rural Africa are the future custodians of our last remaining wilderness areas. With this in mind, the non-profit organisation Children in the Wilderness (CITW), supported by the ecotourism company Wilderness Safaris, has been working in six southern African countries since 2001 to carry out its vision of increasing children’s understanding of and appreciation for the environment.
CITW is a multi-dimensional programme that begins with Eco-Clubs run in 15 schools in the Zambezi region. A fair selection process follows, resulting in a smaller group of learners participating in three-day annual workshops. Wilderness Safaris closes off a luxury camp and the children are hosted on game drives, as well as a number of other activities, to aid in their awareness of the environment. CITW and Wilderness Safaris have a number of committed staff members who dedicate their time to inspire and teach young minds, such as Amon
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Ngoma, a guide at Wilderness Safaris Toka Leya Camp. He proudly says, “I like teaching and sharing my knowledge with children as they have the desire to learn, and they are educated and can protect our planet.” Another dimension of CITW is the Youth Environmental Stewardship programme for children who show leadership qualities and a strong commitment to conservation. They are prepared for possible careers in conservation and tourism. CITW, through donor support, sources secondary and tertiary scholarships and internships.
The programme engages more than 2500 learners and hosts over 500 children in camps per year. A staggering 300 children receive annual scholarships across the spectrum of southern Africa. A recent scholarship student in Zambia who achieved all distinctions in Grade 12 was the first in his community to be accepted into university to study medicine. This is the kind of dream that CITW, supported by Wilderness Safaris, wants to inspire into action. TL Z
Responsible Tourism
Bushcamp Company Invites Children To Draw Images Of How They Benefit From Boreholes By: Mahina Perrot (Wildlife Journalist) Photos: Richard Peek
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hildren paint images showing the benefits of boreholes to illustrate their yearly calendar
Last June, The Bushcamp Company invited 20 children to Mfuwe Lodge, situated in South Luangwa National Park, to draw and paint images describing how the boreholes actually benefit them at home. They were supervised by the wellknown Zambian artist Mulenga Chafilwa. The children were asked to draw different scenes illustrating the various benefits of boreholes. The twelve best paintings have been selected and will be used for the calendar that the Bushcamp Company prints and sells every year. All of the profits will go to their community project “Commit to Clean Water”. The winners will get a prize and all of the children will also get to come back to Mfuwe Lodge and go on a game drive as a treat.
In Zambia, over 5 million people do not have access to clean water and over half the population lacks access to clean sanitation. As a result, hundreds of children under five die from diarrhoea and other diseases. People who have
Dickson Ngoma (Chiwawatala)
to walk long distances to get water from the river are constantly at risk of coming face to face with wild animals. The Bushcamp Company’s “Commit to Clean Water” project involves digging boreholes in nearby villages. One borehole supports about 200 people, or an entire village, and so far the company has dug a total of 42 boreholes. The benefits are immediately clear; children are healthier and get to spend more time in school, and farmers can now use hoses to water their crops and make a living.
“People can only appreciate the need for conservation when the daily demands of their own lives are met… The gift of something as simple as clean water helps fulfill those demands and ensures the preservation of a unique area where the needs of the human and natural world are too often in conflict,” says Ian Salisbury, Mfuwe Lodge’s General Manager.
The Bushcamp Company always tries to find new and innovative ways to help local communities and won National Geographic’s World Legacy Award in March 2016. TL Z
Benson Beza (Mfuwe Day)
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BEHIND THE LENS WITH EDWARD SELFE
Continuing our series of photographic tips with Edward Selfe – a veteran guide and photographer based permanently in Zambia – we look at why taking time to compose your images carefully, especially in the heat of the moment, will pay off in the end.
think about composition
There are so many incredible events on a safari that it’s easy to get carried away with the excitement and snap without thinking about how the photos will look. We have all been there and there’s no shame in it! In fact, if it’s so exciting that you can’t concentrate on your photography, try putting your camera down and just enjoying it. After all, you’re on safari for the experience, and I’d hate for you to miss it because you’re struggling with your settings! But if you are taking photos, blazing away at eight frames per second and hoping that you’re going to get one that’s spot-on might not give you the result you’re hoping for. Have a look around the frame, and consider what you are including and what you are cutting off. Are there distracting elements that can be excluded by zooming or re-framing? Does including that tree balance the shot nicely? Or does moving the frame down remove the bright sky, which draws the eye away from the point of focus? Are there other animals in the background that you need to consider? The ‘best’ photographs usually have an element of interesting composition; the subject is rarely centrally placed, and many include part of the surrounding environment. Their creators have thought about the shape and patterns of the subject and how it fits with the background, and have made sure that your eye is drawn to the most important areas.
Ideas to consider:
- The famous “rule of thirds” (where the frame is divided into thirds both horizontally and vertically and points of interest are placed on the intersections of the 4 lines). - When to break the famous “rule of thirds”! - In our mind’s eye, animals walk along the ground, so it often makes sense to place your subject towards the bottom of the frame. This also allows you to include Zambia’s beautiful trees above your subject. - Our eyes are drawn most quickly to bright areas, so you might want to avoid having a bright point in the corner of your frame. - Don’t zoom in too tight – give animals space to move into which conveys the vastness of their environment. These are merely suggestions; it is absolutely up to you to compose how you think it looks best…but that’s the point, take a little time to think about how it looks first. Enjoy your safari!
TL Z
For more photo advice, photo safari tours and beautiful images visit www.edwardselfephotography.com
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ZAMBIA
is now online! For all our digital editions, go to:
www.zambiatravelmag.com
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Zambia's
"Coast"
By: Kathy G Mills Photos: Ndole Bay Lodge
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ambia is a land-locked country nestled in the very heart of southern Africa. Reaching the sea from within its boundaries is a journey that encompasses thousands of kilometers—whether going to the Atlantic Ocean on the western shores or traveling east to the Indian Ocean. How is it, then, that Zambia boasts a stretch of shoreline that includes pristine beaches comparable to any tropical paradise? The answer is found in the northern province, where Zambia lays claim to 7% of Lake Tanganyika. If that percentage seems small, consider the fact that Tanganyika is the longest freshwater lake in the world, measuring 660 kilometers from north to south and 72 kilometers across. With an average depth of 570 meters, it provides 18% of the world’s fresh water. The lake is shared by four countries. Tanzania and the DRC surround the eastern and western shores, occupying 86% of it between them. Burundi and Zambia cap the northern and southern ends, respectively. Because of its unique ability to
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join four distant and diverse countries, Lake Tanganyika is often called the meeting place of Africa where north, south, east and west come together. Although scientific opinions vary, the lake is estimated to be between nine and 15 million years old. True biodiversity is represented with 2,000 animal and plant species, 600 of which are endemic. Varieties of species normally associated with marine life, such as crabs, shrimp, jellyfish and eels share the prehistoric waters with creatures both exotic and enigmatic. A fully aquatic snake known as Storm’s Water Cobra glides through the lake hunting for fish, a staple of its diet. A Goliath Tiger Fish threatens its prey by circling closer and closer, eventually tearing into it with 32 razor-sharp teeth. Living up to its name, this fish can grow up to five feet in length and often weighs in at over a hundred pounds. Locals say it’s the only fish that isn’t afraid of crocodiles.
With warm temperatures and an amazing display of colorful sea life, Lake Tanganyika is the only destination in Zambia where visitors can go snorkeling and scuba diving. Other popular lake activities include sailing, kite surfing, and water skiing.
Anglers will enjoy some of the best freshwater fishing in the world. Common varieties caught here are the Nile Perch, Lake Salmon, Tigerfish, and Bream, among others. If sport fishing interests you, you won’t want to miss the Zambian National Fishing Competition, which takes place on Zambia’s stretch of the lake every year. Getting to the lake requires a bit of planning. Charter flights must be used for air travel, as there are no commercial flights available. The closest airstrip is in Nkama, right by the lake. Flying to Kasama is also possible, though this route requires a ground transfer after landing. Provided that travelers have access to a reliable 4 X 4 vehicle and enjoy a good road trip, driving is also an option. The journey from Lusaka to the lake easily takes two full days, though luckily, the route has a number of interesting places to stop along the way. Kapishya, about 600 kilometers from the lake, is known for natural and sulfur-free hot springs. About 30 kilometers from Kasama, the Mutumena Falls and the Chishimba Falls offer beautiful scenery as well as campsites and walking trails. Travelers may have to put in some extra effort to get to this section of Lake Tanganyika, but they will be rewarded with an unforgettable experience in Zambia’s little corner of paradise. TL Z
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Interview
Five minutes with...
MTIMBA ZULU
Operations Manager – The BushCamp Company
Where did you grow up? On the Copperbelt in a town called Chambeshi. My father used to work for the mines.
What first brought you to Mfuwe? After my father retired we came to Mambwe, that’s where I did my secondary school and completed Mambwe High School. When did you join Mfuwe lodge? I joined Mfuwe lodge in the year 2000 and I worked as a laundry attendant and housekeeper in 2001. I later moved to the stores department in 2003. Mfuwe lodge sponsored me to study purchasing and supplies and I did a diploma in storage management. I was then appointed to store manager/procurement. They then sponsored me again to study business administration and I obtained a degree from the Univer sity of Wales.
What does an average day involve? Coordinating the staff, checking who is doing pick-ups and drop offs, and making sure guides are assigned. Welcoming guests and making sure their stay is memorable.
How do you see the future of Zambia’s tourism? The tourism sector has huge potential and we can do much better. We are not impacting anything on the environment but preserving it. All we need is more advertisement and government support in selling Zambia to the rest of the world. Most of the people do not even know where Zambia is. Why do Zambians need to know about their tourism products? First we Zambians have to explore and see what we have. We have to start appreciating it and valuing it by getting more involved. Tourism will not be developed by outsiders but by us Zambians. TL Z
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Safari People
Hi Anke, Anke and Ron Cowan, owners of Kafunta Safaris, built Kafunta River Lodge in 1997 on the floodplains of the Luangwa River, south of Mfuwe. The view from the lodge and the chalets is one of the best in the whole of South Luangwa, with elephants, giraffes, puku and hippos constantly roaming around the wet plains. A few years later, Anke and Ron built Island Bush Camp further south in the national park. It is an authentic seasonal bush camp with open-sided chalets directly on the banks of the Luangwa River, offering uninterrupted views of the river and the abundant wildlife. Combining both camps is the best way to truly experience the spirit of South Luangwa, and soon a third sophisticated yet earthy tented camp will join this well established portfolio.
What motivated you to start in the business?
My husband-to-be Ron and I travelled overland from Europe through Africa and visited many countries. In Malawi we were offered work as tour guides and we used to take groups to South Luangwa. We fell in love with this magic place and in 1993 had the opportunity to move here and build a camp. We became shareholders and the company grew from there. We love the adventurous lifestyle and the Luangwa Valley has been our home ever since. Most fond memorable occasion in Zambia?
It is not easy to think of one occasion as there are so many over the years and it feels like every day is a new adventure. Living in a wilderness area is what makes it so special and I would say the encounters with the wildlife are the most memorable. The event that stands out was the day I went jogging and a baby giraffe joined me and ran along-side me! Most remarkable place in Zambia?
Having spent over two decades in the Luangwa Valley, this is certainly the most remarkable place for me. It is not only the vast wilderness, natural beauty and abundance of wildlife that makes it so special, but also the local communities that add to the magic of the place. We are proud of the contribution our company has provided over the years and our team of staff has become like family to us. Contact: Kafunta@luangwa.com
Fact File Name: Anke Cowan Position: Director Company Name:
Kafunta Safaris Kafunta River Lodge, Island Bush Camp and in 2017 Three Rivers Camp, South Luangwa National Park Country: Zambia
TL Z
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Mfuwe’s Hidden Treasure…
Buried in plain sight 28
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By: Janet Mwanza Photos: Janet Mwanza
M
fuwe left me with more of a profound, inexplicable impression rather than actual words. On the surface, it is a delightfully rural little village on the edge of the South Luangwa National Park. All fresh air, long stretches of clear blue skies drawn over acres and acres of grass, trees and dust –particularly at this time of year (July). And while that might sound a little dismal, it really isn’t. Upon this stretch of land is where Zambia’s big four roam, play and hunt! Where some of the greatest adventure stories unfold. Tales of bravery, wit and cunning. And yes-even love. Did you know- lions mate at total of two to three hours a day during mating season? That has to
be an expression of love! Or a desperate need to procreate. Go figure! Honestly though, it truly is the makings of Lion King 3.
Perched from my vantage point of game viewer, I have been witness to some of the most elaborate hunting schemes. Oxbow ambush maneuvers by prides of lions or leopards rolling about in giraffe urine before stealthily creeping upon their prey. It is absolutely fascinating to watch! But even in the midst of all this excitement, there is a sense of quiet tranquility that permeates the air, a life force circulating a reassuring sense of wellbeing that I believe stems from the incontestable evidence that nature is capable of
taking care of itself. If humans don’t negatively interfere, then the animals will find an ecological balance and coexist in harmony.
And so it is with great comfort that you will slip into a new pattern of early morning game drives, punctuated by informative narration from extremely knowledgeable guides, sumptuous meals in between, and glorious sunsets overlooking the plain. The highlights for me though, were the school visits. As I was staying at Mfuwe Lodge, it was through the Bush Camp Company that I got to find out about the projects within the community that are designed to support not only wildlife conservation also but education. These projects ultimately generate sustainable forms of income through the creation of employment.
One such school I went to was Uyoba Community Primary School. It has a total of 700 pupils, six classrooms, and only 12 teachers. It’s not hard to see the problem in this equation. It creates a student to teacher ratio of 58 to one. And bless them, the teachers really do a phenomenal job with the limited resources available. There is a lot more that can be said on the subject. And even more that should be done. But if you ask me, this is the real treasure of Mfuwe—the warmth and spirit of togetherness in this community. The gift of being part of something that transcends my temporal visit. To be a part of a development plan that builds and shapes lives. Such a blessing! TL Z
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Tracking the
Elusive
African Pitta
By: Mahina Perrot (Wildlife Journalist) Photos: Richard Peek
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F
ew birds capture the imagination and interest of ornithologists and bird enthusiasts more than the African Pitta. Described as Africa’s “feathered jewel,” this bird is “a multi-coloured spectacle with its luminous blue wing spots,” explains Derek Solomon, a professional safari guide focusing on animal behaviour and birds. Extremely shy and elusive, the African Pitta is also known as one of Africa’s “most wanted” birds, and has a very limited distribution occurring during the summer rains in the Luangwa and Zambezi River valleys. Seeing one is the highlight of any avid birders’ safari experience in Africa. In fact, the pitta is so special that it “may only be sighted once in a lifetime,” enthuses Ian Salisbury, also a safari guide. He first caught a glimpse of the multi-coloured bird when he was guiding two Swiss guests in the Lower Zambezi National Park. His guests were desperate to see a leopard, but as he drove along a littleused road through some quite dense thickets, Salisbury was thrilled to see a pitta fly across the road right in front of them. “It disappeared quickly, but I was overjoyed at my first ever sighting … unlike the guests who simply couldn’t understand my excitement!” he recalls. His best sighting of a pitta was at Bilimungwe Bushcamp, one of the Bushcamp Company’s six Bushcamps, in South Luangwa National Park. He heard the bird’s distinctive call and then saw it displaying and calling on a branch. So far he has been lucky enough to see pittas ten times, particularly between Kapamba and Bilimungwe Bushcamps. Derek Solomon and his wife were able to get their first photo of the bird with a sound
recording of its song somewhere near Mfuwe Lodge, also part of the Bushcamp Company, in 2004. “The colours, the rarity, the difficulty of finding it, and the excitement of actually locating the bird makes each sighting so special,” the bird enthusiast remembers fondly. The African Pitta is rarely seen because it favours dense thickets in the low-lying valleys where it forages for invertebrates and small vertebrates on the ground among the leaf litter. “It stands motionless for up to three to five minutes at a time watching for prey before moving on to the next spot in a series of long hops,” Solomon explains. “But despite its brilliant colours, it is extremely difficult to see in the gloom of the dense woodland and thickets.” In addition, pittas are a migratory species only arriving in South Luangwa in November when the annual rains have already begun. Access to its nesting sites can be difficult, Salisbury says. “Most migrations take place at night in small groups that disperse when breeding grounds are reached.”
While one may see the male bouncing up and down on a perch with puffed plumage and rapid fluttering of his wings during courtship, their distinctive display call is often the best way to locate these secretive birds. Although the global population size of the African Pitta has not been quantified, the bird is listed as non-threatened by the IUCN. The fact that it can be seen every year at Bilimungwe is “good news.” Solomon says. Salisbury agrees and says there may even have been an increase in the numbers of pittas around South Luangwa National Park in recent years. “That may just be because of better access in the rains. But in some areas the pittas are suffering from loss of habitat due to deforestation by humans or woodland destruction by elephants,” he concludes. TL Z
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Conservation At Large:
AN OVERVIEW OF THE ZAMBIAN CARNIVORE PROGRAMME By: Matthew Becker Photos: Zambia Carnivore Programme & Andrew Muswala
wildlife parts; overharvesting of wildlife; human-wildlife conflict; and disease. Fundamental to addressing these issues is accurate current and long-term scientific information to identify, moniarth’s ecosystems are extor, and evaluate these threats; periencing unprecedented rates conservation actions developed of rapid human-induced change, to combat the threats; and an with a vast array of negative ability to ensure the long-term impacts for wildlife and people. sustainability of these efforts With ever-increasing population through development of local growth and resource consump- conservation leaders across all tion, wildlife and wild places aspects of the work. continue to dwindle. Bordering eight countries with nearly Large carnivores such as lion, 40% of its landmass managed leopard, cheetah, wild dog and for wildlife and wildlife-based hyena, are iconic species in Afrieconomies, Zambia is of critical ca. As top predators they have importance for conservation an array of direct and indirect efforts in Africa. Nevertheless, impacts on ecosystems and many human threats face the therefore are of extreme ecocountry and its ecosystems: logical importance. In addition, rampant human encroachment; because they are beautiful, magmassive commercial trade in ilnificent, and fascinating they legal bush meat, ivory, and other are very significant economical-
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ly--people travel from all over the world to see these species, paying considerable amounts of money in the process. However, large carnivores are also low-density and wide-ranging and can conflict with humans; they require a lot of space. But this space is running out, and across Africa these species are declining from human impacts. With growing human populations and resource demands, the space and resources these notoriously wide-ranging animals need are depleted, often to the point where carnivores can no longer persist. Thus the challenges Zambia’s wildlife and wild places face are unprecedented, complex, and rapidly changing.
The Zambian Carnivore Programme (ZCP) is a non-profit Zambian organization dedicated
to conserving large carnivores, intact landscapes, and wildlife-based economies through a collaborative, multidisciplinary approach. We follow a three-tiered interdisciplinary approach of conservation, research, education and capacity building. The success of this work fundamentally rests on our diverse and effective collaborations with local, national, and international partners, agencies, organizations and institutions that collectively provide the expertise, resources, and energy to address the conservation challenges facing Zambia. We are 100% field-based with bases across the country in the Luangwa Valley, Greater Kafue, and Liuwa Plain ecosystems. Fundamental to effective conservation is accurate and current information to guide management actions. There is presently very little known about most of
Zambia’s large carnivore populations, which renders research and monitoring programmes of paramount importance. By conducting applied ecological research, ZCP is able to identify and evaluate limiting factors and threats to the persistence of carnivore species, their prey, and habitats. Immediate conservation—such as de-snaring operations, disease-control programmes, and supporting anti-poaching patrols and landuse planning—addresses the immediate dangers to wildlife and ecosystems as identified by research.
Through targeted conservation actions, ZCP reduces current, and helps to reverse past, negative impacts on large carnivore populations across Zambia. To ensure the sustainability of both the research and conservation agendas, ZCP has developed diverse educational opportunities
in the forms of training, employment, and sponsorship for current and aspiring Zambian wildlife professionals, beginning at the secondary school level up through the international Ph.D. level. Collectively, this helps to ensure that Zambia’s best and brightest have the opportunity to contribute their talents to wildlife conservation now and into the future.
Perhaps the best reflection of our work can be found in the rising Zambian conservation star Thandiwe Mweetwa, a ZCP lion biologist and graduate student at the University of Arizona in the United States, who was recently named as one of National Geographic’s prestigious Emerging Explorers for 2016. Find out more at www.zambiacarnivores.org, and www. facebook.com/ZambianCarnivoreProgramme. TL Z
Photo captions - left to right: ZCP Ecologist Thandiwe Mweetwa explaining how to use a GPS unit. The ZCP team radio-collars an endangered African wild dog. African wild dog fitted with its radio collar TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA
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In The Frame
DID YOU KNOW? If you approach hippos (especially in the morning and late afternoon hours) it is common for you to see them open their mouths very wide (up to 150 degrees) which is generally thought to be a yawn. In fact, it is often a way for the hippos to display their territorial threat behaviours; hippos are more territorial in water than on land. This wide mouth opening is referred to as mouth gaping.
Photo: Edward Selfe
Safari News The Kasanka Trust Winter Fashion Fundraiser The Kasanka Trust Winter Fashion Fundraiser took place on July 22nd at the Lusaka Museum and was an absolute triumph! The event raised the profile of some fantastic local Zambian design talent. The outfits were incredible, ranging from flamboyant and theatrical to everyday wear with a twist. The designers really demonstrated that ‘local is powerful’ and brought us into the magic of chitenge chic! KW 50,000 was raised which will go directly into supporting the amazing conservation, education and community work that the Kasanka Trust carries out in northern Zambia. Thanks to everyone who attended, and we can’t wait to see you next year!
Kafue National Park has its own New Airline! Wild Dog Air, a new airline started by four Kafue operators (Mukambi, Kaingu, Kantunta and Konkamoya) starts flying in the Kafue National Park. The operators took the initiative to make the park more accessible by means of a twin engine, nine seater airplane. Bigger groups can now be brought to the wilderness from locations including Livingstone, South Luangwa, Lower Zambezi and Copperbelt – cutting down travel times to less than half. Wild Dog Air will fly to Chunga, Ngoma, Lufupa and Busanga who have all-weather airstrips, opening up areas of Kafue that would usually take hours to reach by car.
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Kafue River Lodge sits within 143 hectares of private grounds on the banks of its namesake river, bordering the Kafue National Park. As part of the vast Lunga Luswishi Game Management Area, a range of driving, boating and walking safaris are offered to enable guests to get up close to a stunning diversity of flora and fauna. The lodge’s four rustic-chic chalets each open onto a teak sundeck, come with two comfy queen beds and a fireplace, and are peppered with wooden furniture handcrafted on site by Zambian carpenters. Towards the rear of every cosy dwelling is an indoor bathroom with a freestanding bath, while an outdoor shower offers spectacular views of the bushveld. Graced by a large teak sundeck, the lodge’s main lapa and neighbouring bar and lounge overlook the river. Delicious meals can be enjoyed in the lapa, on the decking or outside under the velvety star-studded skies. The lodge also offers bush breakfasts, lunches and even dinners on the surrounding plains and islands.
www.kafueriver.com / kafueriver@iwayafrica.com / paul@pioneercampzambia.com
Out of Lusaka, into Africa...
Pioneer is an oasis stopover, located just 14 kilometres from the International airport, it is the ideal place to be if you need to be near Lusaka but don’t want to be in it. Offering a range of accommodation and a shady campsite for those who wish to be a little closer to nature.
The ideal place to start or end any safari...
Pioneer Safaris offer tailor made Zambian Mobile Safaris. Simply let us know what you would like to experience and we shall put together an unforgettable adventure for you.
sophie@pioneercampzambia.com / mail@pioneercampzambia.com paul@pioneercampzambia.com / www. pioneercampzambia.com
