ISSUE 7 - APRIL - JUNE 2017

TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA APRIL - JUNE 2017 | EDITION 7

STORIES IN STONE Zambia’s Ancient Rock Art

HUNTING THE

HUNTERS A REMOTE WILDERNESS The Remote and Bio-Diverse Luambe National Park

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TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA / APRIL - JUNE 2017

CONTENTS Features South Luangwa’s Phantoms 06

By Mahina Perrot

Stories in Stone 20

By Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson

What to do if attacked by crocs

By John Coppinger

08

Turning Brutality into Beauty

By Kate Wilson

Tourism Development in Zambia

By Adrian Coley

09

Shaping our Future Generations 23

By Sausage Tree Camp

Hunting the Hunters

By Sheena Carey

10

10 Reasons to Visit South Luangwa 24

By Hadley Pierce

A is for Apple 14

By Anita Balletto

Behind the Lens

By Edward Selfe

A Remote Wilderness 16

By Marcus Westberg

The Perfect Place to Film

By Hannah Hoare

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Advertisers Index

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I.F.C.

Radisson Blu

18

Luambe Camp

01

Ndole Bay Lodge

19

The Bushcamp Company

12

Kafunta Safaris

26 Betaspace

13

Zambia Department of Immigration

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Flatdogs Camp

22

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ZAMBIA

Advertise in Zambia’s onl y dedicated travel magazine * it is very well received & attracts large numbers of readers every quarter. * Distributed domestically via tourism establishments, Government offices, corporates and internationally to key tour operators.

If you would like to advertise your position in the market: ads@zambiatravelmag.com / andrew@zambiatravelmag.com www.zambiatravelmag.com

TRAVEL & LEISURE

A word from the MD ZAMBIA Publisher Safari Magazine

Editor & Managing Director Andrew Muswala andrew@zambiatravelmag.com Sub-Editor Ceri Putman ceriputman@googlemail.com Layout and Art Director Gemma Beardsall gemmakb@hotmail.co.uk Consultant Jo Pope popejo@gmail.com

Subscriptions ads@zambiatravelmag.com +260 977 308 711 / 0967 173 796

It’s a new safari season, a new dawn with limitless opportunities.

We look up to the sky, that with hard work we can go further in our efforts of opening up Zambia to tourist opportunities and further contributing to the growth of the sector in the Country.

In this edition we have centred much on wildlife tourism, with a specific focus on South Luangwa National Park. We look at 10 reasons to visit South Luangwa (p 24), and Hannah Hoare series producer at Plimsoll productions in the UK describes it as ‘the perfect place to film’ in an engaging feature on wildlife film production (p 28).

Tourism is one of the most important tools in the conservation battle: if more people go on safari, there is greater weight given to protecting these assets and the harder it is for poachers to infiltrate areas. Luambe National Park (p 16). Africa’s natural heritage is under greater threat now than ever.

We explore the current plight of the elephant population in this issue (p 14). Nicky D. Jefferson’s feature ‘Mwela Rock Art’ (p 20) proves that Zambia has a diverse and stunning tourism products, not only those viewed on classic safari trips.

Elsewhere in this edition: Hunting the Hunters (p 10) catches up with Zambia’s new anti-poaching tracking and detection dogs. What to do when attacked by crocs (p 8), Behind the Lens (p 27), and Tourism Development

by Adrian Coley (p 9).

HAPPY READING!!!

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Contributors Mahina Perrot, Bernhard Thole, Phil Hartell, Nicky Dunnington – Jefferson, Edward Selfe, Hannah Hoare, Sheena Carey, Francois D ‘Elbee, The BushCamp Company, Marcus Westberg, Kate Wilson, Sausage Tree Camp, Mukambi Safari Lodge, Kyle Branch, Hadley Pierce, Anita Balletto, Terra Mater factual Studios, Anne Ackermann, Adrian Coley, John Coppinger.

Printers Impumelelo Print Solutions (Pty) Ltd Unit 7 Kings Court 52 Mineral Crescent, Crown Ext.5 Johannesburg South Africa +27 11 839 4414

Copyright Copyright © All right for material appearing in this magazine belongs to Travel and Leisure Zambia and / or the individual contributors.

No part of this magazine may be reproduced either without the written consent of the publishers or with due acknowledgment.

On the cover

Elephant in South Luangwa National Park Photo credit: Edward Selfe

Lappet-faced Vulture Listed as vulnerable; there are not many of these giants left in Zambia or Southern Africa for that matter. In the picture it was waiting to glide down onto a lion kill in Lower Zambezi National Park.

Photo by Kyle Branch

By: Mahina Perrot Photos: Bernhard Thole/Phil Hartell

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Phantoms

he first time Fannuel Banda and his guests caught a glimpse of a white kudu in South Luangwa National Park in early November 2016, they couldn’t believe their eyes. As one of The Bushcamp Company’s senior guides, Fannuel has had his share of remarkable sightings over the years, yet he was astonished to come across this rare animal.

“This little white kudu was standing in thick bush between two of our camps, Zungulila Bushcamp, and Kapamba Bushcamp, across the Kapamba River,” Fannuel enthused. “It was a young female. She hadn’t been rejected by her mother and was still part of the family. She was completely white, with very pink ears and a pink nose. I had never seen anything like her before!”

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According to Conservation South Luangwa’s vet, Dr. Mwamba Sichande, the cause can sometimes be albinism; a condition resulting from absence of melanin which gives colour to the skin, hair and eyes.

Albinism occurs in mammals (including humans), fish, birds, reptiles, and amphibians. Sometimes pale colouring may also result from a partial loss of pigmentation (melanin), known as leucism. “This causes the animal to have white or patchy skin and hair, but pigmentation in the eyes is not affected”, Dr Mwamba explained.

Fannuel couldn’t get close enough to see if the white kudu’s eyes were red – the distinguishing feature of albinism. The white kudu was also spotted in December by Suzyo Zimba, another senior guide at the Bushcamp Company, who reported that she was getting bigger and stronger. Unfortunately, Suzyo could not identify the eye colour from the distance either. However, he was excited to show his guests the

Young female white kudu in the green grass.

SOUTH LUANGWA’S

unusually coloured kudu specimen.

Estimated to be approximately four months old when monitored in late December, the kudu was still with her family and seemed to thriving despite her conspicuous colouring. “The majority of white animals tend to die at a very young age,” Fannuel remarked. The guides explained that this kudu’s pale colouring will make her an easier target for predators but they look forward to tracking her again when the camps reopen after the rains.

“It is very difficult for these animals as they stand out more, especially at night or under the moonlight,” Suzyo explained.

were red, with albinism. “But this one was taken by wild dogs during the night,” he remembered.

Obviously, being white often a disadvantage for animals, as it “makes them stand out and more visible to predators”, Ian Salisbury, Mfuwe Lodge General Manager and experienced guide, pointed out.

However, although it is not common, Ian has also seen leucistic baby baboons and guinea-fowls, as well as an albino white-tailed mongoose.

“He was astonished to A very pale male lion, with a come across this rare golden mane and light brown eyes is also regularly seen near Mfuwe Lodge in Zambia. animal”

There were also reports in July 2014 of a rare fully-grown white male kudu in Chobe National Park in Botswana, giving hope that South Luangwa’s female may reach maturity. While Fannuel and Suzyo don’t know if the young white kudu has survived in the wild, they both remain positive and look forward to tracking her again this coming year.

Young female white kudu in the bush (dry season).

Whilst rare, this is not the first sighting of a white kudu.

In fact, several years ago, in the late 1990s, a young female was reported near Chichele Hill, in an area not far from Kuyenda Bushcamp. Peter Zulu, who has been working as a guide for more than 45 years, recalls the sighting, when he saw clearly that the animal’s eyes

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What to do

What to do...

...in the event of an attack by

By: John Coppinger Photo: Edward Selfe

crocs

I doubt any accurate statistics exist, but having lived alongside the crocodile infested Luangwa river for most of my adult life, I have little doubt that crocodiles are responsible for more human deaths than any other wild creature in this big game country. Almost all attacks take place during our summer, when the rivers are swollen by heavy rains. Most victims are rural village children, who cannot resist cavorting in the shallows along the banks.

On being posed with the question of what to do in the event of an attack, an old adage immediately springs to mind - ‘prevention is better than cure’ - avoid swimming in crocodile infested waters!

A friend of mine was once attacked by a 7ft crocodile. Having had his boat upturned by an irate hippo midstream of the Zambezi River, he swam towards the shore. Just 5 metres from the safety of the bank, a crocodile lunged at him, grabbed him by the arm and dragged him under the surface. Knowing crocodiles’ tendency to spin after latching on to their prey, he wrapped his legs around the beast in a grim embrace. He attempted to gouge out the beasts’ eyes, damaging his thumb in the process, but to no avail. Completely exhausted but with an incredible clarity of mind, his ‘last ditch’ attempt was to thrust his free arm down the crocodile’s throat and flip open the croc’s epiglottis, a kind of one-way valve at the back of a crocodile’s throat. As the creature’s lungs filled with water it immediately released its grip, allowing my friend to swim to safety, utterly spent. Any crocodile larger than 7ft, he reported, would almost certainly have been too powerful to fight off.

Hot tips:

On the few unfortunate occasions I have found myself swimming in our crocodile infested river, I have tried to keep calm! It is important to refrain from screaming, shouting or splashing the water. Use breaststroke to swim slowly to safety, even underwater if you can, and do not alight from backwaters or inlets where crocs invariably lie in wait. Good luck!

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TOURISM DEVELOPMENT IN ZAMBIA

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n January 2017 The Ministry of Tourism announced the development of a Tourism Master Plan as a priority and the EU agreed to fund a six month programme to achieve their aims. I will be part of the steering committee and hope to be able to help draft a progressive document to drive tourism.

In a recent study commissioned by Luangwa Safari Association (LSA) and the National Parks Authority (DNPW), the economic contribution of the South Luangwa National Park (SLNP) was explored. Tourism in the Mfuwe area generates around $26m a year for the Zambian economy. $2.6m of which is spent in the local Zambian businesses that support the wildlife economy (see figure 1 below). The majority of activities that generating this income are undertaken in a small area.

So how did this happen?

The vision of leaders in the 1960/70s helped with the creation of National Parks and infrastructure. Zambia’s First President HE Kenneth Kaunda was passionate about the SLNP and drove policy and investment. Mfuwe airport, a decent airport road to the National Park and a bridge over the Luangwa helped. Then Zambia was assisted by the Norwegian funding for infrastructure, including the road network in the park and the park headquarters. Chiefs in the area also contributed by their willingness to facilitate land acquisition by investors outside the SLNP, which coupled with the liberalization of the Zambian economy in the 1990s created an environment for success.

The Game Management Areas (GMAs) I mentioned in the last edition currently underperform, providing insufficient “incentives to conserve”. However, they do offer another option for the expansion of our industry. There is an opportunity if we link national parks through airstrips and roads, as well as enhance the status of GMAs - that are supposed to be buffers to the national parks - so that they complement each other.

As far as I am aware Zambia currently has no “private reserves” for safari tourism where the landlord is the community on

customary land. Much of Botswana’s tourism is conducted on community land rather than National Parks.

In our planning we should consider how some GMAs can offer additional opportunities for the expansion of safari tourism. Hunting has its place and does work as a conservation activity in the right areas if regulated properly. But in areas that border successful national parks, where safari tourism is already the greatest provider of benefits to communities, we should look at how these GMAs can increase those benefits and provide local people with ways to become actively involved in tourism. Certainly as landlords and custodians, if not as operators.

One of the biggest hurdles faced is a lack of trust from the traditional leaders. They look back to when National Parks were first created and fear that if they turn their lands over to “community parks” they may lose them entirely.

So we have to get the model right; secure tenure for investors balanced with ownership of lands to remain with the communities, the right level of access into the protected area for the people, yet protecting resources enough for wildlife tourism to ‘pay off’ - it has to pay off as the basis of the model.

I hope that the forthcoming ‘Master Plan’ will help us decide where to put roads and airstrips, which parks to place hotels in, which GMAs should be targeted to become “community parks”, which parks to leave as wilderness destinations and, above all, how we can attract more tourists to this great country!

The headline findings of the recent study conducted in the Mfuwe area

By: Adrian Coley – Flatdogs Camp

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

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HUNTING THE

HUNTERS

By: Sheena Carey Photos: Francois d’Elbee

Zambia’s anti poaching dogs patrol the waters

ambian national Ben Simasiku has the unfortunate accolade of making Interpol most wanted list. Simasiku is described by Interpol as an “environmental criminal,” indeed one of the nine most wanted. His crime is better understood in layman’s terms. Ben Simasiku is otherwise known as the “Elephant Slayer.” Unfortunately, the title of elephant slayer is one well earnt. Simasiku was arrested in Botswana with 17 cut pieces of elephant tusk weighing 115kg, with a market value of $2,100/ kg and potential earnings of $241,500.

Yet questions remain. Was Simasiku acting alone?

How would that amount of ivory reach the international and far flung markets of Asia? We learn from Simasiku’s case that he was, in fact, part of an organised and sophisticated criminal syndicate.

Operating as a kind of mafia, syndicates are often difficult to penetrate and have the financial resources to supply weapons to local criminal groups and poachers, bribe officials and to coerce individuals into service as ivory carriers or wildlife poachers.

Entering into the world of poaching is like entering into gangland, where members are awarded honorific titles related to their wildlife kill rate and applauded when they circumvent law enforcement. Take the Elephant Slayer; arrested in 2012, within a short time, Simasiku managed to skip bail and flee.

Organised crime, wildlife traffickers, smugglers and an annual trade of one billion dollars; fighting these

Anti-poaching tracking and detection dogs Lego and Bar are a recent phenomena in the Lower Zambezi National Park. Arriving from Holland with their specialist dog trainers, the dogs are thoroughbred German Shepherds from the Invictus K9 training line.

Both dogs and handlers undergo a rigorous training program. As dog handler Peter Tembo’s describes, “they look for how confident you are with the dogs and the ability to move with the dogs, because the dogs move very fast”. Selection criteria apart, whether on patrol, tracking a lead or even back home in their community, dog handlers are on the front line.

At home they are unable to disclose their line of work, as once discovered, they risk serious harm. Poaching is a dangerous discussion.

Given the secrecy surrounding poaching, one can assume that knowledge of its illegality is universal.

Then why do it? Perhaps a major reason is to put food on the table. Despite gaining a much smaller sum for their poaching efforts, a season is enough to sustain familial livelihoods. Secondly, a weak regulatory

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Tracking the trail

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odds seem impossible. Yet imagine this: poachers have just wrapped game meat in a strong smelling fruit called “masau” which they then wrapped again in mosquito net. They board the minibus to Lusaka where they will sell their goods to the ‘big city’ guys.

Responding to a tip off, dog handler Sheleni Phiri and detection dog Bar board the minibus. As Sheleni gleefully described, “the dog was able to distinguish between the scent of masau and the meat. The dog was able to tell me that there is something that we are looking for here. We followed up and found the meat.”

Lego sensing the scent of illegality

environment. In Zambia, poaching is a bailable offence of some ZMW2,000 which the poachers, at the bottom rung of the criminal syndicate ladder, have to come up with.

There are no easy solutions. Returning to the case of the Elephant Slayer; Interpol and investigators from

Kafunta River Lodge

Botswana and Zambia exchanged information. In tandem Zambia Wildlife Authority (now DNPW) received a tip off from a member of the public. Ben Simasiku was arrested by Zambian police in Livingstone and awaits extradition to Botswana.

Collaboration opens up possibility, while canines turn the tables - the hunters now become the hunted.

Three Rivers Camp

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Island Bush Camp

The very best South Luangwa has to offer

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ESSENTIAL ZAMBIA Language: English is the official language.

Time Zone: GMT+2

International dialling code: +260

Visas: Visas are needed for most visitors to Zambia. They are available from Zambian embassies abroad or at Kenneth Kaunda International airport and other points of entry.

Health: Malaria occurs in many parts of the country, especially in the low-lying areas where the game parks are

often situated so malaria prophylactics are recommended. Yellow fever certificates are required if you are travelling from an infected area. Medical insurance, including medevac, is recommended.

Safety: Zambia is known for friendliness and great hospitality but like anywhere in the world, especially where there is high unemployment, it is wise to remain vigilant at all times. Be aware of pick-pockets and thieves in

the towns and cities. Do not leave your belongings unattended and when in public, and carry only the minimum amount of cash that you need. Always lock a vehicle and do not leave items visible in a parked vehicle.

Money: The unit of currency is the Zambian Kwacha (ZMW). Foreign currency (US dollars are best) can be

changed into kwacha at banks and there are foreign exchange bureaus in most towns. Visa, and to a lesser extent MasterCard, are accepted by many tourist hotels and can also be used to draw local currency at ATMs in the major towns.

Getting there: Emirates (www.emirates.com), Kenya Airways (www.kenya-airways.com), Ethiopian Airlines

(www.ethiopianairlines.com), and South African Airways (www.flysaa.com) fly to Lusaka, linking Europe and USA via Dubai, Nairobi, Addis Ababa or Johannesburg/Cape Town.

Getting around: Once in Lusaka, internal flights can connect you to most major destinations in Zambia (www. flyzambia.com). Local buses are cheap and frequent. There are also luxury coach services.

Weather: Zambian weather is essentially divided between two seasons: the dry season from May to October,

and the rainy season from November to April. May to August marks Zambia’s winter when it is warm and plea-

sant during the day and very cool at night. During this time it can be cold on game viewing vehicles in the early morning, especially on the plateau. September to November is a period of hot and dry weather- in the valleys,

temperatures can reach up to 40 degrees Celsius. Around November or December, Zambia experiences intermittent showers and storms that usher in the rainy season, keeping the climate warm and humid through April.

DEPARTMENT OF IMMIGRATION ZAMBIA

We now have an online facility for applying for visas for entry into Zambia.

CONTACT: +260 211 255282/252622 TO APPLY VISIT: www.zambiaimmigration.gov.zm or evisa.zambiaimmigration.gov.zm TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

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‘A’ is for Apple...

...‘E’ IS FOR ELEPHANT By: Anita Balletto Photos: Terra Mater Factual Studios/Anne Ackermann

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ick up any child’s book and I can almost guarantee you will find ‘E’ is for Elephant, but for how much longer? When will we reach the point when our children will no longer know what an Elephant looks like in its natural habitat when learning the alphabet?

Could we be the generation that watches these gentle giants slip into extinction, and stands by as China and other countries, predominantly in the East, continue to fuel the demand for ivory or ‘white gold’? How much longer can we allow these magnificent animals to be massacred, with entire families of Elephants slaughtered, their faces hacked off in order to provide trinkets and keepsakes kept for bragging rights by this fickle market?

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As an African from the ‘Muzungu tribe’ and someone who has always been very passionate about conservation, I was delighted when I, and my film fixing company (A to Z Solutions) were approached

by German based Richard Ladkani to assist them with logistics, permits and support for filming THE IVORY GAME right here in Zambia.

The intention was to be the ‘fly on the wall’, sharing with the audience the incredible work done on a dayto-day basis by the ‘fearless heroes fighting to save the last remaining elephants’. Here in Zambia we identified Georgina Kamanga - the head of the Intelligence unit for the then ZAWA – Zambian Wildlife Authority and now DNPW – Department of National Parks and Wildlife as the main contributor.

As a country Zambia is not immune to the current poaching epidemic, which has seen a significant increase over the past few years and is now run by sophisticated criminal syndicates, often with influential backers and substantial budgets. This is no longer about ‘petty’ shoot for the pot poaching. It is estimated that approximately 150,000 elephants have been poached in Africa in the last 5 years. The past 100 years have seen a staggering 97% decline in Africa’s elephant populations. At the current rate, it is estimated that an African Elephant is poached every 15 minutes, meaning within 10 years more than 50% of Africa’s remaining elephants could be killed, and the species extinct within our lifetime.

The documentary includes real-life footage from Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Hong Kong, main land China, Vietnam and, of course, Zambia. Filming in Zambia was done over 4 visits in 2015, where Richard and his small team of 3 followed Georgina to Lower Zambezi and later donned flak jackets as they accompanied Georgina and her team on a ‘sting operation’, where they busted and arrested a number of dealers selling raw ivory right here in Lusaka.

I am delighted to report that since its release on Netflix at the end of last year, coupled with support from big names such as Leonardo Dicaprio (Executive Producer) and the renowned conservationist Jane Goodall, this hard hitting feature length documentary is taking the world by storm and

proving to shake things up globally. Not only is it gaining momentum in educating the West on what is actually happening here on the ground, but the impact of the film is also making waves in the East, which is fantastic. The Wildlife Justice Commission or WJC has closed their first ever public hearing on wildlife crime connected with the Vietnamese Village featured in the film. Footage from the film made up part of the investigation evidence for the case. Remarkably, the Chinese Government – where it is estimated some 70% of all ivory ends up - have announced that The Ivory Game will be included in the upcoming Beijing Film Festival. Of even greater importance, they have also recently announced a ban on all ivory trade and processing activities by the end of 2017.

In the meantime, in order to bring this documentary to Zambia, the team is currently working with the US Production Company where we are looking to have it translated into Chinyanja. The hope is that working with organizations such as the Wildlife and Environmental Conservation Society of Zambia (WECSZ) and their ‘Chongololo Club’, the documentary can be screened around the country and in schools.

We will also focus on the communities within Game Management Areas surrounding our National Parks, as well as certain areas of Lusaka where the majority of Zambian ‘harvested’ ivory passes before leaving the country.

Let’s hope these combined efforts will help, however as so rightly put in this Documentary:

The Ivory Game Contributors attend the 2016 Kenyan Ivory Burn where 105,000 tons of Government held stockpiles were burnt.

From Left to Right: Ofir Drori, Andrewa Crosta, Elisifa Ngowi, Georgina Kamanga, Hongxiang Huang, Ian Craig and Craig Millar

‘This is the turning point where humans are the problem and the solution – the fate of Elephants lies in our hands, where together WE are the Solution.’

To help do your bit, DNPW have set up a dedicated WILDLIFE HOTLINE where anonymous tip offs and information relating to Wildlife Crime can be reported: please call +260 977335789 with any information.

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M

A Remote

ario Voss is the Director of Conservation and Marketing for the newly opened Luambe Camp in remote and bio-diverse Luambe National Park, located halfway between South and North Luangwa.

Q: How did you end up in Luambe?

A: I experienced the Luangwa Valley as a guest about 16 years ago and, like so many others, fell in love with it. I started working with Kafunta Safaris in 2004 while finishing my masters in Zoology. We used to run trips to Luambe and I always loved the feeling of true

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wilderness there. So in 2015, when I found an investor who wanted to put Luambe back on the map, with a focus on conservation and supporting the surrounding communities, I didn’t hesitate.

Q: What sets Luambe apart from South Luangwa?

A: South Luangwa has become more and more famous over the last decade, but Luambe remains relatively unknown. There is an amazing variety of habitats here, from the typical riverine forests to open floodplains and cathedral mopane forests. With certain habitats come some species that can sometimes be quite hard to find in South Luangwa, such as oribi,

-September and October is a great time to get close to carmine and green-fronted bee-eaters, nesting in the banks of the Luangwa River

By: Marcus Westberg Photos: Marcus Westberg/Life through a Lens

Elands are rare in South Luangwa but are plentiful in Luambe, with some herds numbering over fifty Mario and guests on foot inside the park

Wilderness

reedbuck, eland and Cookson wildebeest. It is the remoteness and some of these rarer species that make it such a special place.

Q: Luambe’s wildlife is said to have been decimated by poaching. Is this the case?

A: Presumably. Many places have issues of humanwildlife conflict these days, of course. The difference is that Luambe has had no support, financial or otherwise, from tourism or conservation organizations for some years. So any sort of conflict, such as poaching, has existed without anyone from the ‘outside world’ taking any notice or action. This is something we are trying to change, of course. Having

said that, we are delighted with the amount of wildlife that can be found in Luambe already. We have incredible bird life, antelope are plentiful, and we regularly see elephant, hippo, giraffe, buffalo, and zebra. Wild dogs and lions are there too, but seeing them requires a fair bit of luck, while leopards sometimes come to drink at our waterhole in camp.

Q: What have been your favourite sightings so far?

A: Wild dogs are my favourite animal, so watching a pack of these fantastic predators hunt down a puku one early (and chilly!) July morning on the plains is TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

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One of the hidden delights of Luambe: bush babies, often spotted along the road back to camp at night

definitely one of my favourite memories. I also saw a rare Pel’s Fishing Owl perched on a big mopane tree in wonderful afternoon light – that was magic. But, to be honest, sitting in camp watching the hundreds of hippos right in front of the tents is hard to beat most days.

Q: Who would enjoy coming to Luambe, and what kind of experiences could they look forward to?

A: Luambe is for people who love remote wilderness, those not feeling the need to ‘tick off’ the Big 5, but rather to enjoy quality time in the bush. With the camp the only one in the park, you won’t be running into a lot of other people. A fantastic experience is enjoying a sundowner across from one of our carmine bee-eater colonies in September/October. Another amazing, and for me vastly under-rated, safarimoment is simply admiring the Milky Way in its full glory; the wide open plains of Luambe, with their 360-degree view, are an ideal place for this. But really, not much beats enjoying a sunrise (with a cup of coffee!) while watching the hundreds of hippos right in front of camp. I’ll never get tired of that.

Marcus Westberg is a freelance conservation and travel writer and photographer. See more of his work at www.lifethroughalens.com.

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2017/01/13 9:48 AM

STORIES IN STONE

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here are no limits to where I’d go for a lion. But this is no feral feline - it is high up on a cave wall, depicted on rock, and reached with much pushing and pulling – the Sumina lion at the National Monument Mwela rock site near Kasama, in Zambia’s Northern Province.

The human race has always expressed itself; through drawings, paintings, music, buildings and the written word.

Thousands of years ago, when there was no written language, the descriptive art of rock painting was used to document the lives and customs of ancient civilisations. Pictograph and petroglyph, (paintings on stone and carvings into stone, respectively), sites stretch from the Sahara to South Africa, from Nigeria to Namibia.

Our past lives on, and Zambia’s

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Guides Daniel (left) and Norbert show us some pictographs at Kabale East.

Zambia’s Ancient Rock Art

gallery of rock art treasures found at Mwela, a pictograph site, are a noteworthy exhibit.

The Mwela site is spread over 100 square kilometres and easily accessible by vehicle from Lusaka; drive north along the Great North Road and turn left at Mpika. Good news is that the Great North Road is in far better shape now than 20 years ago, when I drove south through Zambia with a companion.

My companion on this occasion was the well-known Zambian artist, Quentin Allen.

Arriving in early afternoon, we visited the Mwankole site where guide Daniel accompanied us.

Mwela’s paintings are schematic, in other words symbolic; representational rather than specific. Even when they depict human and animal forms it’s interesting to try and interpret which animals the artists had in mind.

We stayed at Thorn Tree Guest House, and next day set off to link up again with Daniel, as well as another guide, Norbert, at a site known as Mwela Central. I must stress that to appreciate fully this wonderful rock art you do need a degree of fitness when the going gets tough; and it does. The rewards, however, greatly outweigh the physical challenges. At the first cave, we started with an explanation of the otherwise perplexing symbols representing fertility rites and rituals, before moving on to drawings which could be identified as figures of animals: a crocodile and hunting scenes. The figures are drawn in red with carefully mixed pigments, sometimes interspersed with dots.

Inexplicably, the animals are often distorted, with shortened legs and bulging stomachs.

Driving on to Sumina Lion Rock, we scrambled and slogged up to

We visited three other rock art sites: Nachikufu Caves, Mutinondo

and Nsafu Cave. The Nachikufu complex is set in a quartzite ridge south of Mpika, amidst outstanding scenery. The period is Late Stone Age and the style mostly schematic, but includes the use of white and yellow pigment as well as red ochre. The paintings at Mutinondo are unremarkable and those at Nsafu, reached along a bad road followed by a steep boulder-strewn ascent, are troubled by graffiti.

But Mwela outshines them all – take your time. Let the stone canvases speak to you and listen carefully to their stories.

TL Z

The species of animal depicted at Changa Mwibwe is open to interpretation as many creatures display distorted forms.

Five male dancers at the Lwimbo West site are likely portrayed in a trance-like The green milkweed locust feeds on toxic plants and can produce a poisonstate. ous substance.

Further on, at Changa Mwibwe,

some extraordinary images of animals are evident, to me resembling dachshunds but obviously not intended as such. At another site I was inelegantly pulled up to see the paintings, grateful that my gear was carried; I needed both hands.

But oh, what treasures awaited, of amazing bat images. At Lwimbo, one scene shows a line of five people holding hands, thought to be in a dance posture and possibly in a trance. Interpretation of images varies but the booklet Zambia’s Ancient Rock Art: the Paintings of Kasama by Benjamin W. Smith is most helpful, if you can find a copy.

On the rock wall of Sumina Cave, figures of a lion, a dead buffalo and a man were painted by applying red pigment.

the big cat, Mwela’s flagship image, well worth battling hostile, spiky vegetation on the sweaty, slippery, steep ascent. Here, a big-bellied lion appears to have killed a buffalo, while a man aims his spear at the feline. Photography isn’t easy, and often you need to squat or twist around to frame a picture.

The landscape is magnificent – granite hills and giant boulders.

This was the home of the Twa people, traditional hunter-gatherers, thought to have created this rock art as many as 8,000 years ago.

Look out also for big hairy caterpillars, guttural toads, the brightly coloured green milkweed locust and interesting flora.

About the Author...

Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson is a UK-based travel writer who has lived and worked in Canada, Africa, Hong Kong and Australia, contributing to publications both overseas and in the UK. An experienced and adventurous traveller, she has been interviewed on the radio in Cape Town and London about her travels. The photos in this article were also taken by Nicky.

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TURNING BRUTALITY INTO BEAUTY

By: Kate Wilson Photos: Edward Selfe

M

ulberry Mongoose create unique accessories handmade by craftswomen from the South Luangwa, Zambia. They use natural materials including guinea fowl feathers, seeds and hand carved wooden beads. Their design work aims to capture the grace and ruggedness of the unmatched African bush.

Mulberry Mongoose is based in an area where unemployment and poaching are a reality, so it is fitting that every piece of jewellery sold helps support local families whilst conserving their unique environment.

In South Luangwa poaching is a sad reality and causes the maiming and/or slow and painful death of iconic wildlife from elephant and giraffe to leopard and lion.

Fortunately, in collaboration with the Zambian Wildlife Authority, Conservation South Luangwa (CSL) tirelessly conducts anti-snare patrols collecting in the snare wire before it harms animals.

Mulberry Mongoose turns this brutal snare wire into meaningful beads. Snare wire is often made of a steelzinc alloy and very hard to work with. Despite this the courageous ladies of Mulberry Mongoose have learned to coil and flatten it into one-of-a-kind pieces. These wire beads are then mixed with semiprecious stones, wooden beads and freshwater pearls to create the iconic Snare Wire Jewellery Collection.

team of courageous ladies and learn how the accessories are made. You can also shop from the unique selection of jewellery as well as a selection of other beautiful hand crafted Zambian pieces.

A small company with big ambitions, they have worldwide stockists and have worked with established names including WWF and Tusk. Furthermore, their popular online shop sends jewellery orders far and wide across the globe.

Why the name Mulberry Mongoose?

The name represents the two elements of the business vision. The banded mongoose work together in social groups to keep safe in the African bush. As a company, Mulberry Mongoose believes in looking out for the community and wildlife enabling them to grow stronger.

Mulberry is a British fruit and reminds Kate Wilson, the founder and designer, to aspire to grow a competitive business with on trend designs and customer service to rival any Western business.

Web: mulberrymongoose.com Email: kate@mulberrymongoose.com Tel: 0978051814 Facebook & Instagram: Mulberry Mongoose

A portion of proceeds from every sale is donated back to funding more essential anti-snare patrols. Between 2013-2016 alone they donated over $60,000. Celebrities including Hilary Clinton, Leo Di Caprio and Whoopi Goldberg have worn their snare jewellery.

The Mulberry Mongoose workshop is located on a well-trodden elephant path, close to safari lodges in the area. They are open to tourists, where you can meet the

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Handc

rafting

the un

ique je

weller y

Great strength is used to coil the steel snare wire

Driftwood necklace in hand carved mukwa beads, pearl and shell

Responsible Tourism

Responsible Tourism

SHAPING OUR FUTURE GENERATIONS

By: Sausage Tree Camp Photos: Sausage Tree Camp

S

ausage Tree and Potato Bush Camps are proud to be supporting ischool Zambia, a new method of teaching in the Zambian classroom, launched to help overcome the challenges of larger class sizes by creating better interaction between teachers and pupils. The introduction of modern interactive and enquiry-based learning in our communities helps encourage teachers to break away from lecturing and enables open-ended question and discussion sessions with students.

The challenge among teachers in local schools (combined with a lack of resources) is having to deal with 60:1 student-teacher ratio at any given time. iSchool seeks to reduce this scale by introducing the ‘Zedupad’ tablet, loaded with the Zambian Primary School Curriculum in English and 8 other local languages. This, coupled with voice-overs to aid literacy, has greatly improved student engagement and levels of numeracy, literacy and critical thinking, as well as reduced absenteeism among pupils.

Students are split into 3 groups; the creative tasks team works with the teacher, a second group works independently to help reinforce learning and the third team works with the tablet. Tablets can be shared by 6 students at a time to help reduce costs.

The Camps’ Corporate Social Responsibility programme identified Mugurameno Primary School, located on the border of the Lower Zambezi National Park, as a beneficiary, with the aim to introduce iSchool in Grades 1 and 2.

Thus far this iniative has provided: • Teacher training and ongoing mentoring support. Three teachers from the school underwent training in Lusaka, partnering with iSchool Zambia. Training included face-to-face instruction at the start of the program, with introduction to the technology, as well as a comprehensive look at the transition from conventional to childcentred active learning.

• Provision of Zedupads for Grades 1 and 2: 19 student tablets, 2 teacher tablets, one projector with a battery pack (to allow use without electricity) and a solar power docking station have been donated.

• Provision of other classroom supplies including desks, chairs and bookshelves were also donated by the camps CSR programme.

The aim is to introduce ischool to the remaining grades 3 – 7.

For those wishing to support this programme, please visit www. sausagetreecamp.com or www. potatobushcamp.com.

Ischool also has a comprehensive website - www.ischool.zm.

Alternatively, like our Facebook pages: Sausage Tree Camp and Potato Bush Camp for updates with latest developments.

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10 Reasons to Visit: G

South Luangwa

oing on safari is a thrilling experience, but sometimes the planning can seem overwhelming. Should you try to see the legendary ‘Big 5’ roaming the savanna or trek through the mountains in search of the elusive mountain gorillas?

As a diverse continent, Africa offers a range of vastly different safari experiences; figuring out which one is right for you is key. Whilst each country has its own draw, Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park is the perfect destination for both experienced and first time safari-goers for several reasons:

1.

Highly Relaxed Leopard

South Luangwa is world-renowned for exceptional leopard viewing. Since the 1930s, when the area became a game reserve, leopards have constantly been exposed to people, both in vehicles and on foot, allowing them to become habituated to a human presence. As a result, it is possible to get brilliant photographs of and insights into a day in the life of a leopard.

2.

Walking Safaris

South Luangwa is often referred to as the ‘birth place of walking safaris’. In the 1950s, Norman Carr opened South Luangwa’s first safari camp with the intention of drawing visitors to walk and photograph in the bush, instead of hunt. Over sixty years later, South Luangwa is considered one of the best places to do walking safari in Africa.

3.

Wide Range of Lodges

4.

Knowledgeable Guides

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There are a wide range of lodges available in terms of price, location, and services provided. Prices range from around $40 pp/night for a self-catered lodge outside the park to $900 pp/night for an all-inclusive luxury lodge inside the park. For a real wilderness experience, bush lodges are available in the more remote parts of the park.

Unlike in many parks in South Africa where guides come from cities or other countries, in South Luangwa most of the guides were born and grew up right on the outskirts of the unfenced national park. They know the area and the animals like the back of their hands, and can tell you endless stories about growing up in the bush. Zambia also has one of the most rigorous guiding examinations in Africa, ensuring all guides are highly-qualified.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

5.

Get Involved in the Community.

Of the many non-profits based in Mfuwe (the main town outside the park), Project Luangwa is not to be missed. Created to help promote education and training opportunities in the local community, it has been largely successful in expanding the local primary and secondary school. You can visit the centre in town to learn more about what it does in the community, as well as how you can get involved.

6.

Stunning, Diverse Landscape

The variety of habitats is one of the most remarkable things about South Luangwa. One minute you will be in the midst of a dense ebony tree forest and the next you find yourself on a bone-dry flood plain overlooking the Luangwa River.

7.

8.

Fantastic Shopping for a Cause Mfuwe-based companies like Mulberry Mongoose and Tribal Textiles offer a wide variety of stunning products to take home for friends and family. Mulberry Mongoose uses snare wires that Anti-Poaching Units (APU) collect in the park to make jewelry.

They have donated over $60,000 from proceeds to APU so far. Tribal Textiles supports several local charities and employs over 100 local men and women.

10.

Birder’s Paradise

At the beginning of the dry season, thousands of brightly coloured southern carmine bee-eaters migrate to the banks of the Luangwa River to nest.

Just before the rains come, migrants from Northern Africa and Europe arrive to take advantage of the favourable conditions that follow the rains. Special sightings include: Lillian’s lovebird, Pel’s fishing owl, and the western banded snake eagle.

9.

Animals You Can’t See Anywhere Else

There are several species endemic to South Luangwa; including Cookson’s wildebeest, Thornicroft’s giraffe, and Crawshay’s zebra.

South Luangwa is also home to several endangered species like wild dog as well as many sought-after safari ‘regulars’, including lion, elephant, hippo and buffalo.

You Can Self-Drive

In South Luangwa, tourists may drive themselves into and around the park. This means you can explore the less-explored corners of the park without another vehicle in sight.

About the Author...

Originally from downtown Boston, Hadley Pierce spent her childhood traveling all over the world. She fell in love with the bush at a young age and at 21 decided to move to Africa for good. For the last year and a half, she has been guiding in Southern Africa, taking photographs and writing along the way.

Photos: Edward Selfe

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CENTRAL CO-WORKING SPACE IN LUSAKA Drop in to use internet and printing services or book a private room for your next workshop, interview or meeting.

Hot desk facilities Meeting rooms for hire Wifi Printing Business Services

1 Chila Rd, Kabulonga, Lusaka.

BetaSpace@WorkBeta.com +260968421245

BEHIND THE LENS WITH EDWARD SELFE

Be ready for “that” moment Some of the finest photos of wildlife that appear in exhibitions and on the internet are a case of “right place, right time”. However, catching that magic moment is not all about luck, as I am sure those photographers would agree!

Achieving award-winning photographs requires discipline, dedication, and a very clear and intuitive understanding of your camera. OK, and a little bit of luck!

When you’re on safari, forgo that last cup of coffee and hit the road with your guide early in the mornings. It’s a well-known piece of advice, but it’s worth repeating.

Consult with your guide to find out what sightings occur regularly at particular times of day or certain times of the year. S/ he may be able to tell you whether the nearby Carmine bee-eater colony is east- or west-facing and therefore help you decide when to visit. It might also be the case that certain elephant herds like to visit a natural salt-lick on their route to the river each evening. All this information will help you and your guide to make the best of the time you have on safari.

Some great photographs are not so much about the content, but about a brief moment that occurs between two animals, or the look that crosses the face of a lioness when she spots a warthog in the distance. To some extent, these moments can be predicted, especially if you have a good understanding of animal behaviour (or have a guide who does!). However, there are some moments that come and go in an instant and you need to be ready if you hope to capture them.

Here are a few pointers that will help you: - - -

-

Keep checking your settings when you are at a sighting. In the late evening - when action often happens - the light is falling fast. You’ll need to be increasing your ISO approximately 1 stop every 4 to 5 minutes for the declining light.

Follow the action through your lens. Fleeting moments of intimate or aggressive behaviour often come without warning and you’ll miss it if you don’t have the camera to your eye.

Take a test shot. While waiting for the action – and even if the subject is not in the frame – take a shot of the scene and have a look at it. You might discover that its over- or under-exposed and it will prevent your ‘real’ shot from suffering the same way. If the elephants cross the river, consider whether you know how much to under-expose to get rich sunset colours in the water – take a test shot and assess it.

Prepare for the “What If?” What if the lioness starts to pursue the warthog? Your shutter speed was high enough while she was sitting watching her prey, but will it be fast enough when she rushes towards it?

Of course, not all safari-goers want to spend their time checking their camera settings. So taking time to familiarise yourself with your camera before leaving home will allow you to make these adjustments quickly and accurately in the bush.

Good luck and enjoy your photography!

Get in touch with Edward for more photo advice, photo safari tours and beautiful images!

Go to: www.edwardselfephotography.com

THE PERFECT PLACE By: Hannah Hoare Photos: Hannah Hoare

F

or a wildlife film-maker, South Luangwa National Park is a dream come true.

It’s a place where several of Africa’s most breath-taking wildlife spectacles happen almost alongside each other, to the extent that it’s often difficult to decide where to point the lens.

Every year, South Luangwa experiences a dramatic wet-to-dry seasonal cycle. During the dry season, between July and early November, waterholes evaporate, lagoons vanish, and animals from miles around congregate close to the Luangwa River that snakes through the park. This results, as the guidebooks will tell you, in some of the highest concentrations of animals in Africa.

In practical terms, this means you are more or less tripping over wildlife. There are very few, if any, other places on the planet where you can guarantee to be able to film so many wildlife stories all in one spot.

For the last two dry seasons, I’ve been part of a film crew sent by British production company Plimsoll Productions to live in a camp just a few hundred yards from the Luangwa River, in the Nsefu sector of the park. Our mission, broadly, was to film anything that moved, and that wasn’t hard.

Our camera operators rarely had to drive for more than a few minutes before finding some drama unraveling before them: A wildly flirtatious leopard using her full arsenal of feline charms to persuade a less-thanenthusiastic male to mate; a protective matriarch elephant charging a pride of lions that threatened her calf, scattering big cats in all directions; a pair of furious bull hippos clashing tusks the size of your forearm in a fight that could be fatal… and later the scrum of a hundred crocodiles gathering to feed on the carcass of the one that didn’t win.

Iconic African animals are everywhere in South Luangwa but what makes it particularly appealing for a film crew is the

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To Film

‘supporting cast’ – a host of smaller animals that sometimes get overlooked but who are often the most engaging characters. Alongside hippos we find oxpeckers, hopping from back to back, gleaning their macabre meals and dodging sprays of water flicked by their hosts’ tails. Dangling from sausage flowers, agile squirrels breakfast on nectar, then clean their sticky whiskers; feisty white-fronted bee-eaters take on their larger, carmine cousins and fight over nest holes burrowed six feet deep into sandy river banks; clouds of qualia paint black patterns across the sunset skies before roosting noisily together, coating bushes in tiny bodies, twenty or thirty birds to a branch. And, after the first shower of rain, aliens emerge – dozens of red velvet mites, like tiny plush cushions, wriggle out of the

“Wherever you look, there’s wildlife to film and a story to tell”

damp soil. Wherever you look, there’s wildlife to film and a story to tell.

Getting close is the holy grail in wildlife film-making. Our lenses are enormous these days, which helps. If we can get close enough to the animals, we can fill a television screen with a lion’s eye or wild dog’s ear. And in South Luangwa, we certainly got close. Lions often snoozed in the shade of our filming vehicles.

Elephants regularly pottered through camp to feed on our fig tree.

These extraordinary close encounters are what makes South Luangwa really special.

There are no fences. It’s a real wilderness, untouched and untamed. You’re on the animals’ turf and they behave as though you’re not there. It’s the perfect place to film.

TL Z

Hannah Hoare is a series producer at Plimsoll Productions in the UK, making a tranche of wildlife documentaries about Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park for Blue Ant Media and Smithsonian Networks.

For more information about where to view these films please visit; www.plimsollproductions.com www.lovenature.com www.smithsonianchannel.com TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

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Display of athleticism Photo by Edward Selfe

Safari People

Hi Adrian, Flatdogs Camp has developed hugely since its humble beginnings as a campsite and self catering camp when we opened our site in May 2000. From these early days, we have worked hard to make Flatdogs Camp a renowned name in the safari business. We have a fantastic position on the banks of the Luangwa River next to the South Luangwa Park in a Conservation area. We do things slightly differently to most safari camps and appeal to a wide market who appreciate our uniqueness.

What motivated you to start in the business?

My girlfriend at the time and now my wife invested in the company in 1998 having been working in the Luangwa in the previous years. I joined the Company full time in 2002 and moved to Zambia because I believed that the Company was something special, not only a great safari and holiday destination for our guests but because we could make a real difference in the community and in conservation.

Most memorable occasion in Zambia: The week of our wedding at Flatdogs in May 2005 when all of our families and friends from all over the world came to join us for a week of celebrations in our favourite place. Some guests had never left England and were amazed by this beautiful wilderness and the incredible game they saw here, it made a real impression on many.

Most remarkable place in Zambia: Luangwa Valley!

Contact: E-mail: ade@flatdogscamp.com

Fact File Name: Adrian Coley Position: Managing

Director

Company Name:

Flatdogs Camp, South Luangwa Country: Zambia

TL Z

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Safari News Rest in Peace Basil “For 14 years Basil, Mukambi’s house hippo, made it clear to humans and animals alike that Mukambi Safari Lodge was his territory. He paraded around the bar, investigated the meals in the dining area, grazed among the chalets and luxury tents and took in the rays, cooling off in the Kafue next to our jetty.

We are sorry to announce to his dedicated followers that Basil passed away recently. We suspect it was his fierce defense of his territory against other local hippos that may have finally got the better of him.

A legend will always be remembered.”

Wildlife Safari Guide Training

25 years ago, South Luangwa National Park developed a high level training and examination system, which was soon also adopted by Conservation Lower Zambezi (CLZ), producing professional Wildlife Safari guides who are now working in all the major wildlife parks. Some of these guides have achieved international recognition.

To accredit this training and examination system under the banner of the Technical Educational, Vocational and Entrepreneurship Training Authority (TEVETA), a team of experts was created; comprising of Senior Wildlife Safari Guides from Major Wildlife National Parks, Ministry of Tourism, National Parks and Wildlife, H.T.T.I and Bedrock Africa Training, all of whom were instrumental in implementing the curriculum.

Bedrock Africa were the driving force which chairing and coordinating the process, led by the TEVETA expert curriculum development team.

Further development was achieved with an intense Teaching Methodology Course held specifically for 15 of Zambia’s Top Professional Wildlife Safari Guides by the Teachers Vocational Training College (TVTC) from Luanshya. This culminated in the accreditation by TEVETA of professional Trainers, Examiners and Assessors.

Zambia continues to grow and prosper in the Wildlife Industry!

For information on courses and recognition of prior learning, please contact: bedrockafrica@gmail.com

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A relaxing sunset cruise Photo by Mukambi Safaris

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