Journey to Dhaka Markets

JOURNEY AROUND DHAKA LIVE BITS FROM DHAKAI MARKETS

Shahjahan Siraj www.80plus1.org

Preface When you arrive in Dhaka at night and travel from Zia International Airport to the down town area you are struck by the number of people in the streets of Dhaka seemingly going about their business. When you go out of the hotel the following morning you are then struck by the density of the traffic – the cars, buses, rickshaws and CNGs all jostling for the open centimetre – and even more people. Then you notice the number of shops lining the streets and the hawkers peddling their wares, usually at traffic lights. Dhaka has a vibrancy not found elsewhere, in my experience, that comes from the street activity.

Central to this vitality is the market place or bazaar. Our research shows that there are over two hundred markets in Dhaka, ranging from the huge, like Bushandara (the largest mall in South Asia) to the small floating markets, like the vegetable market that used to appear every morning outside my apartment on Road 12A in Dhanmondi. The range of the markets is huge. Some specialise in one of two products like the gold markets, while others offer a vast range of goods for sale. However, there is one factor linking all markets together and that simply is that wherever a bazaar is situated you will find people, and with people you will find rickshaws, all of which leads to congestion.

Our research also reveals that the bazaars of Dhaka loosely conform to one of three types. The first is what we call the spiritual market; bazaars that not only meet commercial needs but also have a mosque attached to them, which largely determines their tone and demeanour. The second is what we call the civic. These markets are usually administered by the Dhaka City Corporation and are designed to meet the everyday shopping needs of the people who live nearby. The civic bazaar may be attached to a mosque but it’s not a prerequisite. The final major type of bazaar is the commercial market, which is set up, often by entrepreneurs, solely for the purpose of commerce. These vary in size but they are linked by their desire to make profit and as such can be seen as harbingers of modernity in Bangladesh.

These are not mutually exclusive categories and there are of course other ways of typing the bazaars of Dhaka, such as size, age, provenance, location and so on. We have, however, chosen these types because we think that in classifying the bazaars this way we can explore with greater clarity the characteristics of the bazaars, which in turn, do so much to shape the cityscape and at the same time influence the lived experience of urban life in Dhaka.

It has been a great pleasure to work on this project with Shahjahan Siraj who has provided all of the images and done the basic work for producing the commentary. In many respects it has been act of nostalgia looking at the scenes that for some years were commonplace and a daily experience. Siraj has managed to convey the texture of modern Dhaka life in his images that has allowed me to see the bazaars from a fresh perspective. I have learned a great deal from the project. We hope you have a similar experience.

Brian Shoesmith Perth, Australia

INTRODUCTION 80+1 days around the Dhaka: Live Bits from Dhaka Markets

Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh is the city of rickshaws and mosques, located on the bank of Buriganga River. This metropolitan city is the most densely populated city of the world, with a population estimated at over 14 million citizens making it the biggest city of the country.

During the Mughal period it was called Jahangirnagar, and was renowned for producing the world's finest muslin cloth. The city was established on 7th century during the Buddhist kingdom of Kamarupa and the Pala Empire. A feature of the city is that most streets and avenues of Dhaka have markets, as wells as shops on both sides of the road. Dhaka itself is a market. From small street tea stalls to modern coffee shops, from bazaars to parks, from slums to megamalls, everywhere is touched by products and marketing. Old Dhaka has a history and tradition of community spirit, but new Dhaka is modernized and tends to lack this attractive dimension of the old city. Life in new Dhaka, shaped by the availability of international luxury products, parallels global culture with its emphasis on individualism. Above all Dhaka is a city that loves the life, traditions and culture of the Bangla society it has inherited.

With the spirit of Jules Verne, the virtual journey “80+1 days around the Dhaka” would be arranged. Every day one market will be Live bits web cast through the Internet connectivity.

During the Livebits broadcast global internet users and citizen of Linz will get to live the experience of a Dhaka Tour by overcoming time and space limitations. In a way the audience will be travelers in Dhaka via the Live Bits journey. In this way, surely it will prove again that we are all citizen of One World; we are members of same Global Family.

In the Dhaka journey, along with market spot clips based on the goods sold and the popularity, the diversity of Dhaka life styles will be shown. Besides the markets, we will also show, via web castes the traditional entertainments found in the market places, such as live performance and practices. We will show, as a Livebits event, rickshaw riding in new Dhaka and from old Dhaka, traditional horse-car rides.

Along with everyday Live Bits, same day Fresh bit video clip will be uploaded to the Net. Moreover, with the videos collected since 80+1 day’s coverage, a complete video documentary will be that will be (80+1 =) 81 minutes long. The video, photographs with caption story would be available both in online as FLV streaming clip, DVD Rom, digital catalog and blogs. To do Live Bits high-speed wireless internet connectivity with portable devices, mobile phone and laptop will be used.

Shahjahan Siraj Dhaka, Bangladesh

01 New Market New Market is one of the most famous and old markets in Dhaka city. It was established in 1958 by Dhaka City Corporation. It is a two-storied building within a triangular shape. There are about 480 stores in this market.

The centre of New Market has a beautiful mosque surrounded by shops selling home & family products, sarii, clothes, shoes, books, stationary, jewelry, fast food, electronic products and kitchen products.

New Market has three gates and is almost twenty acres in area. The main customers are middle class women and students. About 20-30 thousand customer come here everyday. On national holy days about 4050 thousand peoples gather here. Tuesday is the holiday.

New Market opens at 9:00 am and closes at 8:00 pm. New Market was the first modern shopping centre in Dhaka city.

In addition to the shops, the streets are full of hawkers selling a huge variety of things and are well patronized. New Super Market is the extension of New Market. It is famous for low price home and family products. In many cases these are well-made fake foreign products and people are happy to buy foreign products at such low prices.

Fresh Bits URL : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2n8oUeS-_vI

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02 Gaosia and Chadnichak Gaosia is one of the most famous and oldest private markets of Dhaka City. This market caters especially for women. All kinds of ladies’ fashions and dress products are available here. The late Aber Hasan established the market in 1979. It is a five-storied triangular market almost nine acres in area and is divided into two parts. One is called Balaka and the other is called Chadni Chak. There have about 930 shops in Chadni Chak and 150 shops in Balaka.

Home and family products, sari, cloth, shoes, stationary, jewelry, and fast food are available here. Gaosia is famous for ladies three piece ensembles and the main customers of this market are middle class women and girl students. Everyday about 25-30 thousand customers come here. On national holidays about 45-50 thousand people are gather in the market.

This market opens at 8:30 am and closes at 8:00 pm. There are also a large number of street hawkers in the area, who are patronized by the customers of the big shops. The shopping center’s first and second floor are devoted to retails shop while the third, fourth, fifth floors are given over to wholesale businesses.

Fresh Bits URL:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHSZSHQizPM

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03 Nilkhat Book Market The name Nilkhat comes from the Bengali word “Nil”. During the English colonial period Nil was cultivated here so the area was named Nilkhat ( Nil + Field).

However in modern Dhaka Nilkhat is famous as a book and printing market. It is the second largest book market of Dhaka City. It is located near Dhaka University. Hence the main clients are the students of Dhaka University. This market was established in 1979 and is now managed by the Land Ministry since 1980.

Along with local and international books and publications Nilkhat is famous for low priced printing, photocopying, stationery and educational materials. There are 2500 book stalls in this market. Everyday about 15-20 thousand students come here to fulfill their needs.

This market is divided into two parts; the book section and the print section. Print section’s weekly holiday is on Friday and the book section’s holiday is on Tuesday. Huge quantities of books and publications have been distributed around the country from here. This is the target market of students from low and middle class families.

Fresh bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56vHr66n8WU

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04 Chak Bazaar Chak Bazaar is a famous market in old Dhaka that has a name for wholesale activity rather than retail. It was established on 1947 under the private ownership and the market is controlled by the Chak Bazaar Vonick Shomitee. (Chak Bazaar Businessmen’s Organization ).

Originally Chak and Chak products (lime and lime products) were the items sold at the market but at present it is famous for the wholesaling of stationery, imitation jewelry, women’s fashion products, decoration products and wedding items, garments as well as cloths, especially lungis (the working men’s dress), and electronics. Chak Bazaar supplies retailers from all over Bangladesh. . Chak Bazaar is also famous for supplying Alauddin Sweetmeats and Bombay-style sweets, long popular in old Dhaka, to the city retailers.

This market starts everyday at 9:00 am and closes at 7:00 pm. Friday is the weekly holiday of Chak Bazaar.

A famous example of architecture of the Mogul period, named Shahi Masjid is situated at Chak Bazaar

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yt1W_4go9Rk

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05 Shankhari Bazaar Shankhari Bazaar or Hindu Bazaar in Old Dhaka is the centre of shankha art in the city. Shankha is the sketching, designing cutting, cleaning, carving, and polishing, of conch shells to make jewelry for women.

There are the six traditional stages followed in making an artistic shankha of conch shells into bangles for women, After the cutting and cleaning, pairing and rounding are done by machine.

Once Shankhari Bazaar was famous as the place of art in Dhaka but the traditional Shankha industry is now struggling for survival because of competition from low priced and mass-produced Indian products and excessive prices of raw materials, due to government taxes. Moreover, the diminishing market for this product also contributes to the general poverty associated with the industry.

Mithun Nagh, a Shankha entrepreneur says, “This is our family business, which comes from our forefathers. The price of raw materials is rapidly increasing. So this industry is harassed for existence. In India, the tax on the raw material only 5%, but here in Bangladesh it is 35%. So Indian prices attract the local customers because of their low price. To save this industry we need to make it competitive. For this purposes we need government assistance and patronage. Moreover, there is a reduction of sales on a daily basis because of the high prices. Before the price of a pair of shankha was within 70-100 taka range, but now it is now Tk. 400, making it very difficult for the poor (nearly 80% of the population) to buy. If the majority of the poor can not buy shankha, how can the industry survive?”. As an alternative for the high priced real shankha, the low quality plastic shankha is available for only 10 taka. | It is the tradition of married Bengali Hindu women to wear 'shankha' and 'sindur' (vermilon) on forehead.

Hindus believe that shankhas are supposed to keep the mind and body cool. However, conch-shell elements (like carbon) protect women from diseases. In the recent past Hindu women also wore Shankha’s earrings, necklaces and other attractive ornamentsas a matter of course. However, as religious values have changed, the use of shankhas has also rapidly decreased.

Most of shankha artists are from the lower middle class whose daily income is around 70 – 120 taka per day, a significant decrease from the 1980s when it was 200 – 250 taka a day. There were originally 142 shankha shops in the market but now only fifteen remain.

Narrow roads, high-density living and lack of facilities characterize the bazaar. Most of the houses are over 100 years old and the community lives in a high risk and unhealthy environment. In 2004 one old building collapsed taking nineteen lives. These conditions and their attendant poverty, contribute to the forgetting of traditional life and occupations.

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Shankha entrepreneur, Omio Kumar Soor says, “This is the time to save the traditional Shakhari Art by the governmental patronage. If government reduces the tax compared to India, this industry could be encouraged and it could survive. However, there is a need to make shankha popular with all Bangladeshi people and not just Hindus. We want to escape the use of Shankha from the Hindu religious realm. If all Bangladeshi, particularly the cultured peoples used the shankha as a common Bengali tradition, it would increase the industry, artists will get more work and the industry will saved.�

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mCoHsTwT0XI

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06 Laxmi Bazaar Laxmi Bazaar covers the area of Bahadur Shah Park and is famous as the rickshaw centre for the city. Here we find rickshaw art workshops, repair shops for damaged rickshaws and the gathering of rickshaw pullers of Old Dhaka as well the street market. In the street restaurants the rickshaw pullers take cheap food and rest, especially in the heat of the day. There are a huge number of mobile rickshaw repair shops around the park and street shops target the rickshaw puller. Although the area was once famous for rickshaw art there are only a few workshops left and this art is struggling for its existence.

(See About rickshaw art, rickshaw and rickshaw puller http://www.unnayannews.net/issue/cultureNdevelopment/rickshaw.htm) The elite schools of art do not recognize rickshaw art and artists although the nonacademic rickshaw artists visualize the life and times, traditions and lifestyle of Dhaka with their entertaining motifs.

The distinctive Bangladesh rickshaw art started in 1940, when the European jute exporters living in Narayanganj, Netrokona, and Mymensingh; first imported cycle rickshaws from Calcutta (now Kolkata) for their personal use. At that time, it was a vehicle for the elites, but after independence from Britain the rickshaw started to become popular with all classes of people. The main difference between Dhaka and Kolkata rickshaws is that in Kolkata it is still a “man rickshaw” (gin rickshaw – primitive form) possessing only two wheels and is ‘pulled’ by the rickshaw wallah while in Dhaka the rickshaw has is essentially a bicycle with three wheels that is ridden by the rickshaw man. The Dhaka rickshaws are very decorative. In Kolkata the rickshaw’s importance has diminished whereas in Dhaka it remains one of the most important forms of urban transport. Earlier the horse carriages (which can still be found in Old Dhaka), palanquins and city-canal boats were important forms of urban transport.

In 1941, there were 37 rickshaws. There are now over 200 000 in Dhaka alone. Rickshaws can also be found in other Bangladeshi cities such as Khulna, Mymensing and Chittagong.

Rickshaw pulling is an arduous task despite the fact that Dhaka is a very flat city. One rickshaw puller can earn $3-4 per day much of which goes as recent to the rickshaw owner. Most rickshaw pullers come from the mofussil or countryside and tend to live communally in messes. Any excess income is sent home to their families in the village. The reality of the rickshaw puller is a continuing struggle against poverty, ill health and congested traffic conditions. However, this life is more financially rewarding than life back home in the village where there are no jobs and no means of earning a living. One consequence of this occupation is the longtime detachment from family and wife, which frequently leads to polygamy and/or unsafe street sex. The rickshaw community is now a high HIV/AIDS risk, which exacerbates their life of poverty.

Laxmi or Lokhi Bazaar was the centre for rickshaw art in Old Dhaka. It is now dilapidated with only one family and three shops practicing this art form. The street is nearly derelict, lined by very old houses; marginalized and dimmed with hopeless poverty. The production of rickshaws has moved elsewhere.

Rickshaw ornamental art covers the whole rickshaw, from painted backboards and rear side panels to cutouts appliquéd on to the hoods and brass vases replete with plastic or paper flowers on the handlebars.

There is a lot of repetition, either because of the popularity of some motifs or because of the influence of the master artisan. The paintings are designed quickly, with readymade enamel paints, which tend to be sun and rain proof, but do not allow paints to be mixed. Bright, primary colors are popular and the painting is flat, lacking shadows, perspective, and scale. All the ornaments are made with colorful plastic paper.

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The often-illiterate rickshaw artist learns his craft and techniques by living with his Ustat (master) from boyhood. They do not have copyright and, remain anonymous to the general public. But on the back of every rickshaw you can usually find the mark of the creator of the particular rickshaw. It is a steel pin with a name painted on it, like Fazlu Mistri, for example. Nowadays the traditional rickshaw artist is struggling because screen painting, and digital painting technology are replacing this innovative art form. The third and fourth generations artists are no longer interested in practicing this art because of low income, general lack of recognition and the competition from the modern technology.

This distinctive rickshaw art tends to reflect its time of creation and local values. In the early seventies Dhaka City rickshaws were mostly decorated with birds, animal scenes, natural scenes, star portraits and pictures of movie themes. Now the trend is to decorate the backboard with themes based on Islam. For example, mosques, borak, majar, Taj Mahal, macca, flower, scripture readings and so on are now common as are scenes of the liberation war, muktijoddha (freedom fighters) and other patriotic expressions.

The application of the new technologies means that the local motifs are also being replaced with Bombay movie's scene, global landmarks from London, Paris, New York and Sydney. Both the auto-rickshaw (CNG0 in the city and the van rickshaw in the mofussil (rural areas) have adopted the heritage of ornamental decoration to the vehicle’s body. However, Sylhet, Chittagong and Comilla areas are less enthusiastic about decorating rickshaws than Dhaka City.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDI4oxRpbOA

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07 Bangla Bazaar The name Bangla Bazaar resonates with the Dhakarite! It denotes the language, culture and spirit of the nation. Consequently it’s no surprise to find that Bangla Bazaar is one of the most famous book markets of Dhaka City and is situated in the old city. There are more than 2000 books and print publishers operating in the bazaar, which attracts many writers, poets and educators. This bazaar is always busy with people as it is near the river ghat, or Sadharghat. The Bangladeshi people feel a good deal of pride for this market.

It is famous for retailing both old and new books as well publishing. In addition to books, plastics goods, polythene products, shoes, stationery and electronics materials are available in the Bangla Bazaar at retail and wholesale prices.

Wholesalers as well as retail sellers from around the country buy books from this market making it the main source of books for Bangladesh.

The streets of Bangla Bazaar are usually full of seasonal fruit sellers and temporary hawker shops. There are more than 2500 shops selling a variety of goods located here. All owners of shops belong to the Bazaar Shomitee, which controls the market through the Bazaar Vonick Shomitee.

This market starts everyday on 8:00 am and closed on 9:00 pm. Friday is the weekly holiday of Bangla Bazaar.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OONdWzhw5y4

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08 Babu Bazaar and Naya Bazaar Babu Bazaar is the most famous wholesale rice market of Dhaka City. The new extension of Babu Bazaar known as Naya Bazaar (New Bazaar) is situated in old Dhaka on the bank of the Buriganga River. This is the main source for rice in Dhaka City. There are no retail shops in the bazaar; only wholesale buyers can buy rice. There are more than 300 rice shops.

In the Babu Bazaar there are various kinds of rice available; for example, katari vog, najirsile, pigom, minicat, iiri, atab, cinegura, berai, atts, lata, and sharna.

This market is also famous for medicine, paper and perfume. In the medicine market there are about 100 shops and in the perfume market there are about 120 shops. In the paper market they produce various kinds of paper in different sizes and colors.

In the Babu Bazaar there is also a big fruit cold-storage facility. Different kinds of seasonal fruits are stored here for a long time. There is also a shrine of Hazrat Baba Bahar Shah in the bazaar. Many people regularly come here to pray to fulfill their desire to be free of disease.

This market starts everyday at 6:00 am and closes at 5:00 pm. Friday is the weekly holiday of Babu Bazaar.

Fresh bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AF-hZuaAqAc

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09 Sadarghat Sadarghat stands on the bank of Buriganga River and is the busiest river port in Bangladesh. From here the steamers and river vehicles traverse the country, linking Dhaka with Barisal, Vula, Shariatpur, Khulna, Patuakhali and the southern coastal districts of Bangladesh. M.V. Rostom, Karnophuli, Shundorbon, Coco, Kritonkhula, Shunartori are famous steamers operating from Dhaka’s major port. It is an incredibly busy and crowded area of Old Dhaka. It costs three Bangladeshi Taka to enter in ghat.

A market that sells fruit, fast food, dry goods, children’s toys, water and the anything the returning traveler cares to buy as a gift to the house has been built on the ghat.

Buriganga River and ghats environment has become seriously polluted through unplanned industrialization and the drainage of non-filtered chemical by products into the water. Sadarghat has serious health issues to address.

In front of Sadarghat is a wholesale cloth market, which is known as Sadarghat Market as well, and leads to some confusion. This ghat is open for 24 hours a day.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIn6qcXeE1s

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10 Thatari Bazaar Thatari Bazaar is situated beside Gulistan in Old Dhaka. This is the oldest market of Dhaka City. This bazaar was established about 150 years ago. The Kashari (maker of metallic pots and pitchers) used to live and work in this market When they are being made the metallic pots and pitchers make a high pitched sound (thas thas) which is why this bazaar is named Thatari Bazaar. In the past mostly Hindus resided at Thatari but this has changed since 1971. However, B.C.C Road is named after Baba Choron Chakraborti a famous saint and writer who originally lived in the area.

There are about 2000 shops in Thatari Bazaar. Rice, dal, vegetables, fish, meat and other daily needs are available in this market. There are no longer many metallic (kasha, tama, pitol) shops in the market, like before, although a few shops have followed this tradition. Beside the grocery, stationery and sweet shops, there are also hotels available here.

Shops owners are organized into a Bazaar Shomitee that governs the conduct of this market.

Thatari Bazaar is open from 8:00am until 9:00pm.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiLdugcdGGY

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11 Tom Tom (Horse Tour) Journey Tom-Tom (horse cart) is a vehicle with a long history in Dhaka City. It’s linked with the emergence of Dhaka city when the Mughals made this vehicle popular, Originally its use was limited to the elite class, like the rickshaw, but now it is widely used for weddings and by students celebrating graduation or some other significant event. In modern Dhaka, with the dominance of taxi, CNG, auto rickshaw and rickshaw, the horse cart has become redundant as a form of public transport and the number operating in Dhaka is much reduced. Nevertheless the Tom Tom is highly valued by Dhakarites . Today they can mostly be found on the roads around Gulistan and Sadarghat.

For the special occasion like marriage, political campaigns and student graduations people rent the Tom Tom and decorate the cart with flowers, balloons, and posters. The carts are festooned with decorations and make a charming sight attracting the attention of the people of Dhaka.

The attached video shows us riding on a Tom Tom hired in Old Dhaka on 27 June 2009. The video shows street scenes along the route taken from Gulistan to Gulshan Avenue. The trip covered places like Gulistan, Polton, Bijoy Nagor, Kakrail, Ballyroad, Malibag, Mouchak, West Hajipara, Rampura, South Badda, Middle Badda, North Badda, Baridhara, and Gulshan Avenue.

The Tom Tom is an old vehicle that embodies the historical value of Dhaka City. Using one is an act of nostalgia for the past.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOCCDGTo9bQ

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12 Nazira Bazaar Nazira Bazaar is located near Dhaka Medical College, Gulistan and Bango Bazaar in Old Dhaka. There are restaurants, stationery shops, groceries, confectionary, vegetable- fish and meat and fruit shops located in this bazaar, as well as many other shops along the roads leading to Nazira Bazaar.

Dhaka’s famous Hazi Biriani House, along with many other well known biriani (fried rice) restaurants, is located here. The bazaar is also famous for Bakor khani (a kind of hand made biscuit like dry cake), which is very popular in Dhaka. In total there are over 2000 different shops in Nazira Bazaar.

Shoe making is another important feature of Nazira Bazaar. There are about 1000 shoe making factories in the bazaar and 250 shops retailing the shoes. There are also many wall cloth shops operating in the bazaar.

People are very pious of this area. There are several luxuriously designed mosques around the bazaar area.

Nazira bazaar starts at 7:30am and closes at 9:00pm. This bazaar has no holyday.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3qesD9vZWk

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13 Bangshal Bazaar Bangshal is a busy and well known area in Dhaka City. It is a road side market located in Old Dhaka..

There are about 7000 variety shops available in the Bangshal area which open everyday at 8:00am and close at 8:00pm.

Bangshal is famous for bicycles. From here bicycles are supplied all over the country. Bicycle spare parts shop also found here. Retailers and wholesalers from all over the country come to Bangshal Market to collect bicycles, bicycle spare parts to on sell in their own district. Many importers are located in this market as well, which also features some famous electronics brand company showrooms. Beside these, stationery, grocery, vegetable, meat, building materials shops are found here.

Al Razzak Restaurant of Bangshal is famous all over in Dhaka for the quality of its food. Everyday huge numbers of people come here to eat.. The area has a very fine mosque, which indicates that Bangshal people are religious.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Kq17apDzQA

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14 Islampur Market The biggest cloth market of Bangladesh is Islampur Cloth Market, located close to Sadarghat in Old Dhaka.

The market began in the British period with a few shops, expanded in the Pakistani period and completed its development after independence in 1971.

Islampur bazaar stands on the bank of Buriganga River in Old Dhaka near to Sadarghat and is mainly famous as a wholesale cloth market. Islampur draws on Dhaka’s long association with the tradition of weaving and cloth making. Jamdani, katan, Rajshahi silk, batik, hand painted saris are available here.

Women’s dresses, shalwar kameezes, shirt cloth, pant cloth, bed sheets, cover sheets, lungis and every other type of imaginable cloth also available here.

There are many multi storied buildings built up in Islampur, such as the Jahangir Tower, Latif Tower, Ahsanullah Super Market, Lion Tower, Kader Sharkar Tower, the Doulot complex, Amanullah complex, Khaless Mansion, Khan Mansion and the Hayat Dulon complex. There are also a lot of small markets associated with Islampur. Altogether there are more than 1200 wholesale shops of different sizes in this market. Everyday thousands of ordinary people as well as cloth business people come here from around the country to shop. There are ten beautiful mosques in Islampur Bazaar.

The market is controlled by a committee and the executive members of the committee, selected by the vote of general businessmen every two years, set policy and rules that control the market.

Islampur Bazaar opens at 9:30am and closes at 8:00pm. Friday is the holiday. This market is also closed in all government holidays.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAHIGJiXbzg

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15-16 Happy Learning The slum population in Dhaka has doubled in a decade, reaching 3.4 million in 2006 out of a population of 12 million, or approximately 28% of the official city population. The number of slum dwellers is increasing dangerously contributing to because of poverty and climate change. The increase is due to internal migration and the centralized economic and administrative system that currently operates in Bangladesh.

Most of the poor people who come to Dhaka from the villages hope their lives will change. Unfortunately these marginalised groups do not get good jobs or improve their life facilities after migrating to the city; most of the men are involved with rickshaw pulling, hawking or construction work, all of them risky, heavy work producing little income, which is why people have to live in the slums.

In the slums there are no minimum facilities of health, education and security. The children grow up within a social climate shaped by high risks of poverty, illiteracy, drug trafficking and the HIV/AIDS epidemic.

NABO JIBON KENDRO has stepped in to try and redress this situation by running a school slum children.

They provide good education and food for nutrition to all children attending their school. The aim of the school is to bring the slum children into a mainstream life situation so that they can contribute in the development process. The school was established in 1995 and is supported by donors from Austria. The children are happy to learn and get the opportunity to be a good citizen.

Austrian teacher Mica Vamos and her mother teach the children a variety of different subjects like story telling, geography, mathematics, color making, drawing and group participation. They use, wherever possible, alternative educational materials made by students from Austria.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/basecampmarkets#play/uploads/64/5seou1L5oTE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmpsVWhn4y8

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17 Live Presentation The live presentation is by the Live Bits artist Shahjahan Siraj over Skype. He talks with the audience via the MC at Linz Avenue’s screening session. The presenters asked questions about the objectives, research findings, present trends and traditions of Dhaka markets and commerce. Along with explaining his experiences Mr. Siraj commented on the culture, life style and economic status of the markets. He also answered the questions from the audience at Linz. Both parties talked over the wireless Internet connectivity as a Live Bits event.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=711drTpl54w

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18 Tati Bazaar Tati Bazaar is the famous traditional gold market of Old Dhaka. The bazaar came into existence during the British period.

Tati Bazaar is famous as a gold and silver market, and is one of the biggest gold markets in Bangladesh.

Jewelry is the main activity of this market but all aspects of gold are dealt with as well. There are 1200 jewelers working in Tati and there are almost 3000 ornament making factories. Beside ornament shops there are some groceries, stationery shops and pharmacies as well.

Tati Bazaar is in Hindu dominated area but there are two religious centres. The Mandir (Hindu Temple) and one Mosque. Sri Shiddheshor Bashudeb Temple was established in the British period but was destroyed during the Independence War in 1971 by the Pakistani Army. This historical temple was rebuilt in 1972.

This market starts everyday at 9:00 am and closes at 7:00 pm. Friday is the weekly holiday of Tati Bazaar.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58bRSIgy_7k

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19 Roy Shahab Bazaar Another old market in Old Dhaka is the Roy Shahab Bazaar. It was named after a famous landlord, Mr. Roy Shahab Bahadur, of the British period. At this time the market was patronized by the local elites..

However, with the establishment of East Pakistan in 1947 there were communal riots and the Hindus left the area and migrated to India. Subsequently people falsely claimed ownership of the bazaar but when this was resolved it reverted to the city. Now the Roy Shahab Bazaar is controlled by Dhaka City Corporation.

There are 300 shops inside and about 400 shops along the roadside of Roy Shahab Bazaar. Rice, vegetables, fish and all daily needs are available here. Some stationery, groceries, fruit shops and restaurant are also found here.

Roy Shahab Bazaar is mainly famous for vegetable and hardware shops. This is the one market that serves the other wholesale hardware markets of the country. There are about 70 wholesale hardware shops and a huge number of vegetable, fish, chicken and general shops in this market. Nat-boltu, chatki, zinari, pipes, haturi and other many iron things are on sale here.

This market starts everyday at 8:00 am and closes at 8:00 pm. Friday is the weekly holiday of Ray Shahab Bazaar.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7U4AsDv99WI

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20 Banga Bazaar Banga Bazaar was established in 1976 at Fulbaria, Dhaka. It has been renamed the Dhaka Trade Center. In 1990 the bazaar was transferred to a location in front of the Bangladesh Fire Service Office. Banga Bazaar name refers to the ancient name for Bangladesh -Banga.

A total of four somitee (associations) control this market, which is an unusual administrative structure.

They are, the Bangabazaar Hawkers Somitee, Gulistan Hawkers Somitee, Mahanagoor Hawkers Somitee and Adarsha Hawkers Somitee.

These four somitee together make the Bangabazaar Corporation.

This bazaar is famous both in Bangladesh and foreign countries for the availability of all type cheap cloth.

Sari, shirt, denim, pants, lungi, trouser, travel bag, salwer-kameez, warm clothes and many other garment products are available. There are about 2400 retail and wholesale shops in Banga Bazaar. Recently a multistoried shopping center, Annexco Tower, was built beside Banga Bazaar, adding to the retail outlets.

In 1996 there was a major fire and most shops were destroyed and businessmen lost all their property, which was valued at millions of Bangladeshi Taka. After a certain period they started their businesses again with support from government.

The market opens everyday at 8:00 am and closes at 9:00 pm. Friday is the weekly holiday of the Banga Bazaar Complex.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4rYgEPWILY

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21 Kaptan Bazaar Kaptan Bazaar stands beside Gulistan in Old Dhaka. This is considered a very old market in Dhaka City and was established in 1940 and originally named Thatari Bazaar. In the Pakistani period many captains of ship from Sadarghat came here everyday for shopping and for this reason, this part of Thatari Bazaar changed its name into Kaptan (captain) Bazaar.

In this market there are almost 2000 shops selling a variety of items. Groceries, stationery, confectionery, hardware and household needs are available. Broiler and local chicken, different types of birds, mutton and huge quantities of fish are also on sale here.

The shopkeepers created the Kaptan Bazaar Business Association to control market and provide business security. More than 40000 people do their marketing here every day. Friday is the weekly holiday of this market. The market opens at 8:00am and closes at 9:00pm everyday.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUvDSkLe9bI

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22 Hotel Al-Razzaque Al Razzaque Restaurant, located in Old Dhaka is a famous restaurant in Dhaka City, as well as Bangladehs generally. It is a luxury hotel and restaurant in Old Dhaka. The restaurant is famous for the delicious Bangla and local traditional foods it serves. Every day lots of people come to eat here, particularly the businessmen who come to Old Dhaka on business.

The Al Razzaque Restaurant serves a variety of Bengali foods, such as; kachi-berani, rice, chicken biriani, mutton burhani, and various fish curries of rui, hilsa, shrimps, pangus, telapia, as well as egg dishes and salad. It also serves light meal such as nan bread, kebab, lachhi, faluda, fenni, coffee, tea, sweetmeats and so on. To honor Hindu religious beliefs it does not serve beef.

However the citizens of Dhaka who choose to eat here, even though the price of food is expensive compared to other general restaurants in Dhaka City, regard the restaurant as neat and clean with hygienic food production. The hotel’s waiters are always busy but everything goes smoothly because of the restaurant’s professional management system. People choose eat at Al Razzaque for its traditional cooking, hygiene and professional service. Attached to this restaurant are a popular juice bar and a residential hotel in upstairs.

There is a separate seating facility for women. There is no weekly holiday in Al Razzaque Restaurant. It opens at 6 A.M and closes at 12 P.M each day.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFtqTnRJxjY

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23 Siddique Bazaar Siddique Bazaar is located behind the Fulbaria BRTC bus terminus next to Gulistan. This bazaar was established with few shops just after independence isssn 1971, In 1986 it was developed according to plan.

Nowadays the bazaar has become big with thousands of shops and two multistoried market buildings within the bazaar area.

Siddique Bazaar is famous as a wholesale shoe and seeds sale market. There are more than 2000 shoe shops. Ladies, gents, kids; all kind of shoes and sandals are on sale here at both retail and wholesale prices.

This is one of the biggest shoe and sandal wholesale markets in Bangladesh.

Siddique Bazaar is also the biggest seeds sale market of Dhaka City. The seed importers of this market generally import seeds from India, Korea, Japan, China, Holland and Thailand. However many seeds companies have there own seed production firms to supply the market. This is the place from where seeds are supplied around the country. Generally more than 200 species of local, herbal, seasonal vegetable, fruits and wood trees seeds are widely supplied from this market.

Friday is the holiday of Siddique Bazaar. This Bazaar opens at 8:00 A.M. and closes at 8:00 P.M.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61ftN290y8A

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24 Gulistan Street Market Gulistan (garden of flowers) is a famous and busy and street in Dhaka City. Although there are no longer any flower gardens in this area it retains the association with gardens and flowers. Gulap Shah’s Shrine (majar) is also in the vicinity of Gulistan. From the street to the multistoried buildings, every place in Gulistan is a market. The road is always busy with hawkers, continuously moving rickshaws, buses, bikes and automobile traffic as well as the surge of restless men and women.

Along with multistoried markets all roads sides of Gulistan have temporary hawker’s shops. The marginalized community, generally low-income people, is the main customers of this market. There are more than two thousands hawker shops in Gulistan where more than 20000 people works.

It is famous for low price clothing, lungi, toweling, shalwar kameez, sari, shoes, cheap ornaments, watches, sunglasses, kids’ wear, garments and fashion products. Although the price is very low there is no guarantee about the quality of products sold.

However in the center part of Gulistan, like as traffic island, is the Gulap Shah Shrine, spreading the spiritual information and inspiration to the seemingly restless people of Gulistan. Everyday a large number of followers visit Gulap Shah’s Shrine where they make donations and pray with total devotion to fulfill their desires and receive good luck.

There is no holiday in the Gulistan Street Market. Generally it starts at 8:00 A.M. and close at 9:00 P.M.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAEUoEqbWm8

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25 Motijheel Commercial Area Motijheel is situated at the heart of the Dhaka City. Motijheel Thana was established in 1976. The General Post Office of Motijheel is considered the zero point of Dhaka. Motijheel is close to the Kamalapur station, the main railway station of Dhaka.

Motijheel is the main commercial area of Dhaka City. The head office of most of the major institutions and companies are located here. These include Bangladesh Bank, Sonali Bank, Pubali Bank, Agrani Bank, Janata Bank, Rupali Bank, Islami Bank, Eastern Bank, Basic Bank, Jiban Bima Corporation, Sadharan Bima Corporation, American Life Insurance Co., Dhaka Stock Exchange, Power and Water Development Board, and Rajuk (the town planning authority). In addition some government and private offices head offices are positioned in Motijheel Commercial Area. There are about eight shopping centers and twentyone residential hotels situated in the area.

Along with these there are street hawker markets on the roadsides of Motijheel Commercial Area where shirts, pants, other garments, perfume, electrical goods and so on are on regular sale. While goods are cheaper here, there is no surety about the quality of products.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7IsoH4jxvM

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26 Dilkusha Nawab Sir Saiad Solimullah’s brother-in-law Nawab Azim built a luxurious palace for recreation and named it Dilkusha. Nothing remains of the palace but a beautiful old mosque and shrine built for the use of the Nawab’s family members. After the partition of British India in 1947, the Municipal Corporation acquired the palace area and named it Dilkusha. At present Shadharan Bima Vhabon (General Life Insurance Building) stands in the place of Dilkusha.

The head office of Bangladesh Biman Airlines is also located here. In front of the Bangladesh Biman Building, there is a large statue of the archetypal bird Balaka, the trademark of Bangladesh Biman Airline.

The traffic island containing the statue is known as Balaka Chattor (Balaka Ground). Many companies have their head offices in this location. Virtually all the buildings of this area are used as office or business spaces, hence its name; Dilkusha Commercial Area.

Janata Bank Vhabon, Agrani Bank Vhabon, Hotel Purbani International, Rajuk Vhabon, Shadharon Bima Vhabon and many other important building stands on Dilkusha. Friday and Saturday are holidays making Dilkusha Area look like a small town with less people.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZtWf5J_wrk

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27 Kamalapur Kamalapur Railway Station is the central railway station in Dhaka, Bangladesh. It is the largest railway station of the country and thus the most important terminal for communication between Dhaka and rest of Bangladesh. It is also one of the most modern and striking buildings in Dhaka. Kamalapur railway station is situated on the north-east side of Motijheel.

In front of Kamalapur Railway Station, there is Pir Jongi’s Majar (a famous shrine). Kamalapur station looks very crowded all the time. Taxis, auto rickshaws, rickshaws, private cars and many more vehicle are gathered in front of station throughout the day.

Centering on the Kamalapur Railway Station is a huge floating market that was established in this area when the station was built. However, there are also are small tea stalls and small shops selling goods necessary for the journey. These open air markets generally sell booklets, bread, mineral water, dry food, juice, t-shirt, napkins, cigarettes and so on.

The station has also become the sleeping place for many homeless people. It is an area with a floating population of prostitutes and is generally regarded as a high risk area for contracting AIDS. However, the station plays an important role in commerce for the Motijheel area.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDla0B2spPo

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28 Bitul Mukarram Mosque Market Baitul Mukarram is the national mosque of Bangladesh. It is situated beside the General Post Office of Bangladesh. (GPO). The architecture of Baitul Mukarram is very modern and resembles Mecca. It is an eight-storied building and is considered the center of the nation by millions of pious Muslim who gather here from various parts of the country every day to pray. On Fridays and special religious occasions this mosque is filled with people.

There is a big religious products market in Baitul Mukarram beside the mosque where about 700 religious products shops sell Islamic books, jainamaj, scent, caps, surma (ash color for eyes), burkhas, Islamic CD disks, agorbati, rose water, maswak (tooth brush. The temporary religious products shops sustain commercial activity around the mosque area. In addition wall plates with Islamic calligraphy, mythological photos, janamas (carpet for pray) and Islamic calendars are also sold here.

Friday is the holyday of Baitul Mukarram market. The market starts at 9:00am and closes at 9:00pm.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ezhPi36wzY

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29 Stadium Market Dhaka Stadium Market refers to the collection of markets adjacent to the Banga Bondhu National Stadium.

These are the Stadium Market, Maolana Vashani Stadium and the National Swimming Pool Market. These three markets are close together and constitute a single entity for shopping.

There are about 300 shops in Vashani Stadium market, 120 shops in Swimming Pool market and 400 shops in Banga Bondhu National Stadium Market. Vashani Stadium Market and the Swimming Pool Market are basically two-storied buildings while Banga Bondhu Stadium Market has three storys.

Stadium Market is mainly famous for electronic products. Television, refrigerators, mobile phones, washing machines, microwave ovens, fans, watches, DVD players, radios, cameras, CCTV, computers, and furniture for electronic equipment are available her. Both local and imported electronics products are available. Some small tea stalls can be found in front of this market.

The second and third floors of Stadium Market are generally used as a servicing center, storage and office space for electronic products. There are show-rooms for many famous global brands like Sony, LG, Butterfly, Konka, Canon, Samsung, Nokia, Toshiba, National, Philips, Singer, Walton, and Panasonic found at Stadium Market. All kinds of retails electronics products are also available here.

Stadium Market and its low-priced products closely influence Dhaka domestic entertainment life. Friday is the weekly holiday in Bangladesh, and Stadium Market is open Saturday to Thursday from 9:00 A.M. until 9:00 P.M.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKq8ust8Gjo

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30 Baitul Mukarram Gold and Street Market Baitul Mukarram the national mosque of Bangladesh was founded in 1960 and is the 10th biggest mosque of the world.

Baitul Mukarram Gold and Watch market is the biggest jewelry market in Bangladesh and began in the Pakistani era There are 180 jewelry shops. Amin jewelers, Apan Jewelers, Apurba Jewelers, Chadni Jewelers, Boishakhi Jewelers, Grameen Jewelers, Shanonda Jewelers, Venus Jewelers are prominent jewelry shops in this market. Beside this there are shops selling popular brand watches. Part of the ground floor and the first floor of the market are the main jewelry and watch market. All famous gold importers and ornament makers of the country have showrooms in Baitul Mukarram.

In front of the market, on the roadside, there is a street market where t-shirts, shirts, pants, shoes, toys, briefcases, kitchen items, fashion products and seasonal fruits are sold cheaply.

This market opens everyday from 9:00am until 8:00pm, except for Friday.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkaBpL_K9do

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31 Naya Polton- Road Show Naya Polton is one of the most important business areas in Dhaka City. Many shopping markets, shops, showrooms, banks, political party offices, cinema halls, media centers, community centers, hotels and highrise apartment building are located in the area.

Polowel Market is the most important market in the Naya Polton area. It was established in 1984 with a 420-roomed five-storied building. There are shops selling a variety of products in the market such as shoe shops, cloth, garments, watches, opticians and fashion products.

The market is popular with customers as it provides the option to choose high quality products as most shops sell foreign goods because they are also importers. Consequently Naya Polton is not a cheap area; nevertheless many young couples come here with their relatives to buy fashion products and wedding clothes and dresses.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lr57-utcnqQ

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32 Rickshaw Market Dhaka is the city of rickshaws. Dhaka cannot be imagined without rickshaws, which are part of Dhaka life, but the recommendations of the World Bank, IMF and other donor agencies is to evict them from the streets. Rickshaws are already banned from the so-called VIP roads in order to stop traffic-jams.

Consequently the rickshaw is facing a struggle for its existence although it is an eco-friendly, artistic and non-motorized vehicle ideally suited to the Dhaka environment.

In 1938 the British jute exporters of Narayangonj and Netrokuna (Mymenshingh) first imported rickshaws for their personal use. From the beginning the number of rickshaws increased rapidly. Besides the capital Dhaka, it is a popular form of transport in towns and small cities throughout Bangladesh. A survey conducted in 2000 says, there are 240 000 registered rickshaws in Dhaka city but in reality there are many more on the roads. Except for some roads rickshaw drive everywhere in Dhaka and do contribute to traffic congestion. However, taking rickshaws off the roads will not solve Dhaka’s traffic problems.

In the early period rickshaws were the mode of transport for the elite families; today it is the preferred the mode for the middle classes.

Rickshaw pullers and rickshaw artists are usually poor, recent immigrants from the countryside, in most cases illiterate and poorly educated. Despite all of this rickshaws constitute an important source of income for the urban poor of Dhaka City and the home villages of the riders. A rickshaw puller’s daily income averages around TK 250-300 per day in Dhaka, but it is less in the towns and semi urban areas. The pullers hire a rickshaw from a Garej (Garage) on a half or full day contract basis. There are thousands of garages and rickshaw making factories in Dhaka city.

An important feature of the Bangladeshi rickshaw is its colourful artistic decoration. The academician generally scorns rickshaw art but in reality it is an important folk art. Within the industry some artists are greatly admired. The art features animals, scenes from the national struggle and Bollywood stars and other celebrities.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoE7hOC9B84

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33 Aziz Super Market Aziz Super Market of Shahabag is situated near the National Museum. It is an apartment cum commercial complex and the building has fourteen floors. The first three floors and basement are used for commercial purposes and the rest is apartments, particularly for bachelors as they are small with limited facilities.

About five hundred bachelors live in this complex.

The super market is mainly famous for bookshops, publishing, Bangla fashion, cultural items and alternative literature practices. Local and foreign books are available at Aziz; however, the market is also famous as a centre for publishing Bangla contemporary fiction by well-known local authors. Aziz shop keepers are also in the vanguard of local and traditional cultural practices, making and marketing a wide range of artistic products that feature Bangla traditions and culture, but using modern motifs and forms.

Besides books the market is well-known for stylish Bangla stationery, Bangla restaurants, sweetmeats, Bangla music and songs, which are available in a number of cultural and art training centres, cyber cafĂŠs and computer training centers.

Aziz Super Market is also famous for adda (gossiping). Most afternoons poets, writers, philosophers, artists and ‘think-tankers’, particularly the young generation, gather at Aziz to join in the open adda. Aziz also has a reputation for being a centre for left wing politics in Dhaka.

There are about 400 shops in this market. Generally it opens at 8:00 AM and closes at 10:00 PM. Thursday is a half-day and Friday is the holyday for Aziz Super Market.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LiciV1z0LFU

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34 Teacher Student Center (TSC) Dhaka University is the biggest and oldest University of Bangladesh. It was established in 1921and was called the ‘Oxford of the East’ because it was established on a collegiate model. It covers a large area of Dhaka City and hosts a large number of important institutes. There are also a number of important monuments and statues located in the university grounds, which are linked to Bengali tradition, culture, and history as well as the democratic movements of the nation.

TSC is one of the most famous cultural places of Dhaka. It was established on 1966 in the Pakistani era.

The main building houses different recreational and cultural facilities. The Center includes a cafeteria, an auditorium, the library, a reading room, art and music rooms for clubs and a stage as well as a swimming pool, provision store, bookshop and bank. Just outside is “DUCH”, the central café of the university, at the rear of the Shuparjito Shadinota (earned freedom) statue.

TSC is famous for arranging important conferences and symposia, discussions, processions, study circles and contemporary socio-cultural and political events. Moreover, the clubs and student organizations associated with the TSC regularly organize cultural shows, rehearsals, training programs, recreational events, seminars, symposia and fare-wells on a regular basis. It is a meeting place of alternative think tanks, teacher-student interaction as well as activists and practitioners. The TSC is a the heart of contemporary Dhaka cultural activity Since its inception TSC has played a vital role in the socio-cultural development of Bangladesh as well as the movement for democracy in Bangladesh. Moreover, it is famous for adda (gossiping), or more properly informal meetings among intellectuals for dialogue on contemporary local and global issues, emphasising democracy and human rights.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9wOhzDFILY

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35 Elephant Road Markets Elephant Road is situated on the north side of National Science Laboratory. The middle point of Elephant Road is known as Bata Signal after the large Bata (shoe manufacturers and retailers) show room, which is considered the landmark for this part of Dhaka. There are also a huge number of other shoe shops in the area.

Multiplan Center is the second biggest computer market of Dhaka City and is located on Elephant Road.

There are also a number of other computer shopping and service centers in the area. Besides computers the shops of Elephant Road have become popular as a mobile phone markets as well.

Elephant Road is ornamented by a number of different types of shops like restaurants, photo-shops, watch shops and fashion shops. Moreover, this road is famous for the Bangladesh brand name ceramics like Mono Ceramics, Shaeenpukur, Japan-color, Gitalli, Fops, and Cates Eye. Elephant Road is also famous for carpets, copper showpiece, wedding products and interior decoration, cloth selling and wedding shops. All the necessary products for a marriage are available in the marriage market, which not only sells the bridal and bridegroom outfits but also rents them to customers. The small food shops, tea-stalls, garments shops, illegal car and rickshaw parking make Elephant Road one of the most congested thoroughfares in Dhaka.

The shops of Elephant Roads are open between 9 A.M and close at 8 P.M every day of the week.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NY8tngJz-Bs

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36 Hatirpul Bazaar Hatirpul Bazaar is situated on the northern border of Dhanmondi thana (district). Although this is a small bazaar it has historical significance. People say that in the British period (until 1947) local landlords used this place as an elephant farm, hence its name “Hatirpul” (in Bangla ‘Hati’ means elephant).

This bazaar is a roadside market extending from Katabon to Motalab Plaza. Although it is roadside bazaar it is legal, operated by the city corporation. The small shops are very important for the local inhabitants, as there is no big general or vegetable market in the area. Seasonal fruits, meat, fish, vegetables, rice, spices and daily needs are available here. In addition to the small grocery markets there are stationery shops and some small restaurants whose major clients are rickshaw pullers, other workers, CNG and taxi drivers. Four roads form a junction in the Hatirpul area, which means it is always busy, particularly with the abundance of rickshaws.

Like a countryside shop, most shops of this Bazaar stay closed during lunch period. In the morning and evening this Bazaar becomes very crowded with customers. It opens early morning and closes around 10 at night.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZZ7F779ycY

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37 Eastern Plaza Eastern Plaza was established in 1990 on the famous Sonargoan Road. This was the first multi-storied ultra modern shopping center to be built in Dhaka City. Eastern Plaza has not lost its importance for the middleclass customers despite the building of many more attractive shopping malls throughout Dhaka, including its immediate neighbours, Mutaleb Plaza and Nahar Computer Complex. The area is still known as the Eastern Plaza zone.

There are 98 shops on each floor of the five-storied Eastern Plaza building. Each floor is used for a specific product category. On the ground floor cosmetics, crockery and gift items are available. The 1st floor is filled with shops selling saris (Bangladeshi women’s dress) and fashion products, including the exotic Jamdani sari and Tater sari as well as modern dress apparel. The 2nd floor is famous for shirts, pants, shalwar kameez, baby wear and toys. The 3rd floor is well known for jewelry and shoe shops and the top floor for the cheap software, DVDs, cell phones, and is favoured by the young for shopping as well as a meeting area.

This market opens at 9:00 AM and closes at 9:00 PM. Friday is the weekly holiday of Eastern Plaza.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ljb71c_bUic

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38 Shahbag Chobir Hat, Flower Market and Shishu Park In the Mughal period the name of Shahbag was Bag-E-Shahenshah, which was hard to pronounce so in the British period the name was changed to Shahbag for easier recall.

This area is famous for many important institutions located there. Bangabondhu Medical College Hospital, BIRDEM, National Museum, Dhaka University, Fine Arts Faculty, the biggest flower market of Dhaka, Shishu Park and Ramna Park, and the Public Library are all located in Shahbag.

The road side of Shahbag has many flower shops. Marriage ceremonies, birthdays, different occasions and on every special day huge numbers of customers are attracted to these flower stalls. As the biggest flower market of Dhaka City you can find many local and foreign species of flowers available. Along with flower selling, the shops provide other services such as car decoration, stage decoration with flowers and everyday many bridal cars come to be decorated with flowers.

Fine Arts Faculty of Dhaka University is situated here. Promising young artists study in this institute to improve their skills and develop professionalism. Zainul Gallery is an in-house gallery of the Fine Arts Faculty, which regularly exhibits art with an emphasis on the work of the students. Chobr Hat, is a part of the institute just opposite of the main building, where a replica of the Aparajoy Bangla statue is located.

The photograph shows an impromptu open-air market where artists exhibit and sell their artwork, which is on display for customers to admire and buy. The Friday market is an open-air market, or rather open air exhibition.

Shishu Park is another popular place of Shahbag. Sunday is the holiday of this park but most days a lot of people come here with their children. As Friday is a holiday, the highest number of visitors comes here on this day because it is the best place for children’s recreation in Dhaka. There are many kinds of rides available here. Some ‘fast food’ shops are also found in Shishu Park. The entry fee of Shishu Park is eight Taka per person. As a huge number of children come here every day there are many mobile toyshops in the park, and a Bangla food stall sits in front of Shishu Park.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-kBI3YUOVg

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39 Malibag Bazaar Nawab Subadar Amir Umara, Jagirdar of Dhaka created many gardens (bagan) in Dhaka city in the Mughal period. The Mughals appointed many mali (gardeners) to take care of the gardens and to make flower garlands. The mali lived together in this area, hence the name Malibag The present Malibag Bazaar contains the Malibag Super Market, Jilu Shopping Market, Rail Gate street market and a vegetable market. The Malibag super market is a four-storey building with 350 shopping stalls on the first two floors. At the front are the grocery, stationery, bakery, sweet and fruit shops as well as restaurants. Inside of the market are the sari, pant, shirt, three-piece, jewelry, electronics, plastic item, ceramics, crockery and cosmetic shops. In Jilu Biponi Market there are about 150 shops providing groceries, stationery, tailors and daily household needs. A mosque stands beside this market and a general market is located in front. Vegetable, fish, meat, dry fish and daily needs are sold in this general market.

Opposite the general market building is the big roadside Rail Gate market. This market stands in four lines on both sides of the rail line. Rice, dal, fish, meat, vegetable and other daily items are sold in this market cheaply because the major customers are the. marginalized urban poor. Small restaurants, tea stalls, general cloth stalls and shoes shops are also found here.

Although Malibag Super Market and Julu Biponi market close on Fridays the general market and Rail Gate street market have no holyday. Malibag Bazaar opens at 7:00 AM and closes at 9:00 PM. A few shops of Rail Gate street market and some of the small roadside shops remain open until 11: 00 PM .

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tW9tZtTKrps

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40 Mouchak Market Mouchak Market is one of the favorite markets for the middle class women of Dhaka City. This market was established in 1972 just after Bangladesh gained independence from Pakistan. At that time it was considered the most modern market in Dhaka. Although the market structure is now old it has not lost its dignity. Everyday thousands of women and girls come here to buy dresses and fashion products.

Mouchak Market is located in the middle of the Magbazaar and Malibag area. The three roads converge in front of Mouchak Market, which means it is always crowded with people, rickshaws and cars so people try to avoid this area to save time when driving in Dhaka. However, there is an over-bridge which is linked with the third floor of Mouchak Market which facilitates access some of the time. Originally the main clientele of the market was the Dhaka elite but now it caters mostly to the middle and lower middle class.

Mouchak Market is a five-storied building and there are about five hundred shops. There is, surprisingly, a Chinese restaurant adjacent to a mosque on the top floor. A number of big and small jewelry shops are located on the ground floor while the first floor provides shops for saris, pants, shirt, shalwar kameezes, baby wear and garment items. Shoe, cosmetics, ceramics, crockery, imitation ornaments, fast food outlets, tailors and so on are also present in this market. It is considered by women to be a ‘one stop shopping center ‘. The avenue in front of the market is now known as “Mouchak Mur” ( Mouchak Avenue) Friday is the holiday of Mouchak Market. Everyday this market opens at 9:00 AM and closes at 9:00 PM.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlzUtv3DZnQ

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41 Khilgoan Bazaar The down town “Khilgaon” area was just like the countryside until the establishment of the biggest flyover bridge in the country, which changed the appearance of the area dramatically. Khilgaon Bazaar is situated just near the Khilgaon Rail crossing, which is always fearfully crowded as many hawkers open their stalls along the railway. The rickshaws and illegal roadside shops make the area very congested and decrease the beauty of the market. Khilganon Markets has demanded an upgrade, to become a multistoried shopping center with the parallel development of the fly-over. The Dhaka City Corporation has plans to convert the Khilgaon Market into a shopping mall. This conversion may work against the present marginalized shopkeepers who may will be evicted because if they can’t meet the high cost of rent of the new shops.

The Khilgaon Market is popular as it is a comprehensive market selling virtually everything required for daily living. From specie to cloth all daily necessary products are available here. The market is sub-divided according to the type of products sold. There is a cloth market, a vegetable market, a meat and fish market, a spice market, the fruit market as well as shops selling rice and daily family products. At present this market is divided into four parts they are Uttara Market, Pubali Market, Hawkers Market and Municipality Market. There are 837 shops available in this Bazaar.

The history of the market stretches back to 1974 when some businessmen took a lease on the land and decided to develop it. They established a Bazaar with 351 shops. City Corporation authority gave permission to build a ten storied building in 2003 as part of the re-development but work has not yet begun.

Khilgaon Bazaar opens at 7:00 AM and closes at 9:00 PM. But the tea stall and restaurant remain open deep into the night.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R67J6JG6Oi4

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42 Metro Shopping Mall Globalization and modernization, have had an impact on Dhaka city architecture. This can be seen in the design of the markets and the market motif, manifested in consumerism as a life style and a culture. Within the past few years many shopping malls have been established and global brand products have become widely available, which in turn has an impact on the quality of local products. The modern markets and the products they sell are the most obvious examples of the influence of the West on contemporary urban Bangladesh.

The Metro Shopping Mall of Dhanmondi is a popular shopping mall for fashion products. The main clients of the market are the rich young generations as all shop sell high price products and emphasise the quality of their goods. Metro plays an important role in the evolving life-style of contemporary Dhaka.

This luxurious shopping mall was established in 2002 on Mirpur Road, Dhanmondi, just behind the Bangamandu Memorial Museum. Metro is a six-storied shopping center where each floor has forty-one shops. It is famous for readymade garments, jewelry, shoes, cosmetics and fashion items for ladies and gents. The top two floors are occupied with electronic shops selling, CDs, VCDs, mobile phones and mobile accessories. Friday is the weekly holiday for this market and on other days Metro opens at 9:00 AM and closes at 9:00 PM.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtxrJnPLcIM

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43 Uttor Badda Bazaar With the changing of time and the increasing population more markets are required in Dhaka city. The Uttor part of Dhaka, unlike Gulsan and Banani has not yet developed the necessary infrastructure to create a modern market culture and life style. However, there is an old market that still maintains the old market traditions in the area. The Uttor Badda is small but its location on the roadside at the conjunction of busy roads makes this old market one of the busiest in the metropolitan area. Uttor Badda Bazaar plays a vital role in meeting the daily household needs of the local community, particularly the provision of vegetables, meat, fish and fruits required on a daily basis.

In this market, particularly in the vegetable market child shopkeepers are prominent, although child labor is prohibited in the country. There are about 200 shops in the central market place and many shops on the roadside, where restaurants, pharmacies, sweetshops, bookshops, fruits shops and tea-stall are found in profusion. The shops add colour to the market through their decorations and advertising material.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8v_JsXMhCI

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44 Rampura Bazaar Rampura is famous for housing the BTV (Bangladesh Television), the national broadcasting television’s head office, which is a major landmark in Dhaka. Rampura has become an important business and residential area. Although the roadside areas are decorated with different shops Rampura is essentially a business center. Recently the main roads area behind the bazaar has become a highly desired residential area although the quality of infrastructure remains poor. A major issue is the lack of standard sanitation, particularly in front of the market.

The Rampura Bazaar has many small roadside markets, which play an important role in local life. There are around one hundred vegetable, fish, meat and cooking product shops in the area and a large number of fruit shops on the road that runs parallel to the main road. These shops meet the immediate needs of the local residents. There are also many mobile vegetable and fish hawkers selling their products in the area.

Like other general markets, Rampura Bazaar’s opening time is 8:00 am and it closes at 9:00 pm, everyday of the week. This Bazaar is also called Municipality Bazaar as it is managed by the Dhaka Municipality Corporation.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKhGugMDtq8

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45 Madha Badda Bazaar Although Badda stands just besides the aristocratic Gulshan area it is not fully developed and remains an old-fashioned Dhaka market where the life style, culture and infrastructure are distinctly traditional.

Moreover the bazaar seems to have been by-passed by modern communications and consumerism. The Madha Badda Bazaar is a roadside bazaar that stretches from the main road to the nearby residential area.

In total there are 200 shops and the modern Lutfun Shopping Center increases the value of Madha Badda Bazaar; although only two floors are used for the market.

Rice shops, grocery, stationery, restaurants, and tea-stalls and daily needs makes Madha Baddha Bazzar like most other Dhaka markets servicing local communities. The product price is less in this market than most and even though it is small it attracts the local people and is consistently busy.

Madha Badda Bazzar may be called a street market because of its location, mainly on the roadside and space is limited.

Badda Bazaar is open everyday from 8.00am to 9.00 pm .

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_Oi8sHZuRY

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46 Gulshan DCC Market Gulshan is the centre of upper class Dhaka City as well being the main expatriate area, housing most of the embassies. Consequently Gulshan Market caters for this clientele with lots of foreign products on sale.

Generally the market sells high quality goods and there are even uncommon vegetables available in the Gulshan market for sale to its foreign clients.

The DCC market is comparatively big and modern with a two-storied well-decorated market building. In front of the market there is a large parking space. The market is divided into two parts; one is a general market selling a wide range of products and the other is a fashion products market. Both sectors are geared to the expatriate market.

Another part of this market on the upper floor, is famous for ladies and gents wear, household products, crockery, furnishings, electronics, fashion items, toys, cosmetics, jewelry, sports good and gymnasium supplies. There are also restaurants and fast food shops.

In front of this market and by the roadside there are many temporary food shops, tea-stalls, fruit shops and hawker stalls. The market’s is owned and managed by Dhaka City Corporation ( DCC ). There is also a beautiful Mosque in the market area.

Friday is the holiday of this market. This market opens at 8.00AM and closes at 9.00pm.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zj65zMETb08

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47 Banani Bazaar Banani is an elite area of Dhaka City where marketing, life style and shop contents parallel the developed world. This area is based on luxury consumption and is full the head offices of global companies, private universities and schools as well as hotels, restaurants, fashion houses, entertainment centers and global brand shops. Here the life is fast, expensive and enjoyable compared to other places in Dhaka, except for Gulshan and Dhanmondi.

Banani Bazaar includes Kamal Attaturk Avenue, Alam Plaza and the General Market. The Banani General Market was built in 1970 in the form of an “E� and it was known as Banani Hawker Market. However, in 2006 the market was shifted to its present location by the Dhaka City Corporation and the open-air market replaced with the shopping complex. There are 104 shops in this market. Grocery items, vegetables, fish, meat and daily needs are on sale here. This market opens at 7:00 AM and closes at 10:30 PM. Some teastalls and fruits shops sit in front of the market. The market also has a parking area in front The first two floors of Alam Bhaban are famous for stationery, hardware, electronics, crockery, restaurants and beauty salons. The rest of floors of this multi-storied center are used as office space.

Bangladesh U.A.E. Maitry Shopping Mall, which forms part of the Banani complex, is famous for global brand products. There are a total sixty shops on three floors in the shopping mall. All shops in this market are well decorated and full of valuable products. Modern beauty parlors, clothing, shoes, sari, three pieces ensembles, toys, movies, cosmetics and pastry shops are found here. Beside this, many tea-stalls and hawkers , selling low priced products can be found nearby.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ctN5mxgs2J0

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48 Khilkhet Bazaar Dhaka City is expanding in all directions due to its ever-increasing population through migration from the countryside. Most people don’t have the ability to buy land in the main city but have a desire to live in the capital. As a result there are huge new housing estates appearing on the periphery of the city in places such as Uttara. Along with the housing come the markets and business centers. A major issue in this development is the question of infrastructure, which architects and town planners are trying to address, sometimes with success.

Khilkhet is a famous bazaar in Uttara. Although Khilkhet Bazaar looks old it is in fact new. Unfortunately the local road is not in good condition, and with a little rain, the road becomes muddy. Despite this the area is developing rapidly and there are multistoried buildings in the area including the five star Dhaka Regency Hotel which is located just behind Khilkhet general market. There are also modern restaurants, education centers, shops and a shopping mall adjacent to the Bazaar, catering to an expanding population.

There is a rail line with the rail crossing making it at a high-risk area, but the local people don’t seem to care about this. There is a bridge over the rail line beside Khilkhet Bazaar, close to the market, which has also become market of floating shops for cloths, fruits, books, and newspapers. Beside this bazaar a shopping market named Mannan Shopping Center, which specializes in gifts and crockery, ceramics, cosmetics, ladies and gents garments.

There are about 300 shops in this bazaar. It opens at 7:00 AM and runs until 10:30 PM. Vegetables, fish, meat, rice and all kind of daily necessary products available here.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5ttjYal-SM

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49 Raj Laxmi Complex The modernization of Uttara began about twenty years ago with the establishment of a few modern shopping centers. The Raj Laxmi complex, owned by the famous Bangladeshi film star Nayok Raj Razzique was one of the first modern shopping centers in Uttara. This multistoried shopping center was established in 1991 and began full operations in 1993. The shopping centre has become a landmark and the Uttara Sector-3 is now known as Rajlaxmi bus stand.

Initially only the first only first two floors were used as a market and other floors were devoted to the garment industry. Over time the garment areas closed and all the floors became part of the shopping market.

On the ground floor are a number of fast food shops, a bakery, and shops given over to confectionary, cosmetics, gifts, toys and shoes. Ready made garments shops, shoes shops and fashion items are found on the first floor. The second floor is devoted exclusively to ladies and gents’ cloths while the third floor is used for shops selling mobile phones and a mobile service center. The fourth floor has variety shops and a Chinese restaurant and the last floor is used as offices for travel agents and estate agents. There are about 350 shops in this market, which opens at 9:00 AM and closes at 9:00 PM. There are many small shops attached to this market and hawker stalls are found on the roadside, the walkway and under the over bridge. Fruit juice, fruit shops, bookstalls, and flower shops proliferate in these spaces.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uh6tSF0mko0

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50 North Tower North Tower is the most up market shopping mall of Uttara. This is a twelve-storied tower with the first six floors used as a shopping mall and the rest used as offices by a variety of companies. This is the biggest shopping mall in Uttara sub town. As this tower is located on the northern border of Dhaka City it was named North Tower.

North Tower is a place where all kinds of products are sold including food and daily household products.

There are also a lot of shops selling mobile phones, jewelry and electronics. The center has become place where boys and girls meet, especially in the cafĂŠs and music shops, to socialise. About 200 shops can be found in this shopping mall where around 500 people work.

This tower has a good security system. North Tower operates everyday between 9:30 AM and 8:00 PM.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnqnjrsZBeQ

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51 Mascot Plaza Within one decade Uttara has become as busy as the main city, Dhaka. A large number of modern shopping centers and high-rise buildings have been established in the downtown area. Mascot Plaza is one of the better-known modern shopping centers where a family can shop for a wide range of goods. As a result it has become a reference shopping center. This multistoried shopping center was established in 2001 at Uttara sector-9, built in Middle East style of architecture. In fact the whole plaza has a touch of the Middle East about it.

There are about 220 shops in mall, which targets the upper end of the market and services all sectors Abdullahpur, Ashkuna, Chalabon, Tongi and adjacent areas. There are many famous jewelry shops on the third floor and it has become the second most important gold market in Dhaka. The plaza also features famous Bangladeshi fashion brands like Arong, Cates Eye and Kay Crafts. The fifth floor is taken up by Arong, which specializes in Bangladeshi Fashion and Handicrafts. Generally the floors tend to specialise in a product. There is a luxurious fast food corner and a coffee shop where young couples meet to chat in afternoon.

However, hawkers generally “ cigarette wallahs ” and “Jalmuri wallahs” (Jalmuri is a Bangladeshi hot spicy rice product) have colonized the front of the market. Mascot Plaza opens at 9:00 AM and closes at 9:00 PM. Saturday is its weekly holiday.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZQ4P3OKik4

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52 Haji Camp Bazaar The Bangladesh government established the Haji Camp in1998 to accommodate the large number of Muslim pilgrims traveling between Bangladesh and Saudi Arabia for the Hajj. Haji Camp Bazaar was established just opposite the Haji camp at the same time as the camp was created. During the Hajj the market becomes very busy, as it is full of Hajis.

It was first known as Muktijudhdha Shopping Market but its popular name the Haji Camp Bazaar caught on. However, it is only one market in the Ashkona residential area of Uttara. Along with rice, vegetables, fish, meat and all kinds of daily needs and fashion products, toys, CDs, medicine, sweetmeats are available in this market. The market opens at 6:00 AM daily and closes at 8:00 PM. In 2006 in the period of Caretaker Government another general market was established in the area, managed by the BDR that was commissioned to sell products at a fair price. The market was originally managed by the BDR (Bangladesh Rifles, the paramilitary border protection force) but it is now coordinated by the Bazaar Committee. It is open all day and is very busy as it tends to cater to the middle and lower classes, unlike the other Uttara markets which tend to cater to the upper classes Besides the main Bazaar, there are many floating shops of fruit, cloths, tea-stall and Bangla snacks (piaju, puri, shingara shops), which stretch from the market to the rail crossing. There is no holiday of this market.

The Haji Market is open at all times whereas the BDR Market closes on Fridays.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYWnShksFAo

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53 Kochukhat We don’t have text and Fresh Bit video on this market place as it is located in the Dhaka military cantonement area. The video and media coverage of this area has been prohibited. But we did a Live Bits of the Kochukhat market. The market place is very clean and organized compare to the other markets of Dhaka City.

In the general market the price is of goods is cheap but the quality of products is guaranteed. The law and order and traffic are well managed by the military in this area. From vegetable to cloth all daily needs are available here.

Fresh Bits URL: None

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54 Mirpur-10 Mirpur-10 is not a market but an avenue with four roads connecting it to the major suburbs of Dhaka meaning it is densely packed with shops, plaza, hawker stalls and street food vendors. The area is generally known as Mirpur Gulchokkor (four way over-bridge). The view from the over-bridge shows scenes of a market with huge number of clients and many floating shops, selling a vast array of goods, on the footpaths. This is the second largest street market in Dhaka City after the Gulistan Street Market.

Mirpur’s position is to the west of the central part of Dhaka. House rents and the cost of living are expensive in central Dhaka so many people have moved to Mirpur, Uttora and Savar where things are generally cheaper. There are many garment industry factories in these suburbs, which have a number of slums where the marginalized communities live particularly rickshaw pullers, hawker and garment workers. There are a number of small shopping centers, which service this clientele. The local elites generally do their marketing in new Uttara malls or in central Dhaka.

The Mirpur 10 Street area is famous for fruits and garment products All kinds of local and foreign fruits are on sale here. In addition pirated CDs/DVDs, electronics, crockery, fast food outlets, restaurants, bookstalls, stationery shops and many other products are available in this area. The markets are famous for low prices There are also many tea wallahs, jalmuri wallahs, piara wallahs active in the area providing both the shopkeepers and customers with cheap snacks.

Among the small shopping centers the best known are Shah Ali Plaza and Anwar Mansion, which have about 400 shops between them. Saturday is the weekly holiday for this market.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWec_VTuG9k

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55 Mirpur Street Market Most streets of Dhaka, except some areas of the new Dhaka, have a street market operating to meet the daily needs of the nearby inhabitants. Although the markets are officially illegal they provide an important service as well as a livelihood for a huge number people in Dhaka City, particularly among recent migrants from the villages. Government have tried but failed to evict these markets, largely because they are popular and provide employment. There is no doubt the street markets are one of the main causes of heavy traffic congestion but people on the whole are prepared to live with this feature of modern Dhaka if other services are provided. Moreover, there is another, hidden cause relating to the markets that involves political uses, corruption and taking chada (regular amounts of so-called protection money from the street shopkeepers) by local goondas (gangsters) and terrorists, which is a major concern for the city administration.

Mirpur-10 Gulchakkar, the centre point of Mirpur, is one of the busiest areas of Dhaka City. For this reason, it is heavily populated with crowds of people from morning to evening. In the early morning and the afternoon the area becomes totally filled up with buses, garment workers, rickshaw pullers, other workers and slum dwellers along with office employees. For this reason alone 5-7 P.M is the peak time for the street markets. The marginalized communities of the city don’t have ability to go ‘brand shopping’, so they come regularly to these markets to buy products, particularly dresses and fashion products at cheaper prices. They don’t care about lasting quality, as they know the price is very low and the items easily replaced.

The Mirpur Street Market is the second biggest street market of the city. Family wear, toys, cosmetics, fashion products along with many other products are available along with fruits, books, tea, and pirated CDs/DVDs. Approximately 700 types products are on sale in the floating shops of the street markets. The markets are open everyday from 7:00 AM and until 11:00 PM.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zh6liklAdMY

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56 Banarashi Polli Banarashi and Jamdani are examples of the world finest muslin cloth, which are proud products of the Bangladeshi heritage of weaving. Banarashi is an artistic, immaculately hand made sari cloth which is generally used for creating Bengali women’s wedding dresses, whereas the Jamdani is widely used by the elite classes for special event saris. Paradoxically this fine Bangladeshi cloth is hand woven by Pakistani refugees in the Mirpur Geneva Camp. Initially there were no showrooms or shops for the weavers to sell direct to customers. They made and supplied materials for sale in different cloth shops throughout Dhaka City. Unfortunately they did not get a fair price for their work, which led the weavers to establish their own retail outlets. In 1980 Banarashi Polli began with five shops. Now there are more than 150 shops where 800 artists work directly.

Mirpur Banarashi Polli is the only Banarashi market in the country. Basically three types of sari cloth are on offer - Jamdani, Katan and silk. Jamdani is the finest, most artistic and aristocratic sari cloth, which carries on the tradition of the famous muslin first created in Dhaka in the sixteenth century. Everyday many wholesale and retail customers come here from Dhaka and other parts of the country to purchase cloth.

Businessmen also take orders for making Banarashi to the customer’s specific design and requirements.

The price range for Banarashi is TK. 2000-70000 and depends of the design work and cloth quality.

Banarashi is now exported to India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka and some other Asian countries.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsVsxFkYfVQ

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57 Muktijudda Market After independence the first government of Bangladesh gave priority to the objectives of the Independence War and tried to create an environment that recognized the millions who gave their lives in patriotic sacrifice. Today the Bangladesh government still gives a monthly allowance and other facilities to support particularly marginalized and injured freedom fighters of the country. To ensure continuous support for these groups the Bangladesh government and the Muktijuddha Kolan Trust established many business institutions. Mirpur-1 Muktijuddha market is such an institution.

In the early 1980s Muktijuddha Market was built in Mirpur-1 with a two-floor shopping center. It is now a five-storied building where the first three floors are a market and the two top floors are used for a garments factory. There are around 300 shops on each floor. This market is the oldest multi-storied market in the area, the now best-known market in the Mirpur area.

There are now many modern shopping markets in the area but Muktijuddha Market are still important and attracts a huge number of customers. All kinds of garment wear, crockery, plastic items, ceramics, cosmetics, electronics, fast food, and mobile phone are available in this market. Stationery shops and groceries are also found in this market.

There are many street shops around the main market, which add to the air of business and contribute to the congested streets full of rickshaws. In the street markets cloths, cosmetics, women’s items, fruit, herbal products are sold at low prices.

This market is open everyday between 9:00 AM and 8:00 PM. Some street shops and tea stalls, however, close late at night, around 11-12.00 P.M

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WvDRoohhLc

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58 Shah Ali Majar Islam expanded in Bangladesh with the mission of the mystical spiritual leaders Pir Murshid and Pir Aulia, who came from Paroshoo (Iran and Iraq regions) in the Middle East. They were enlightened and devoted Sufis.

Although they was Muslims and devoted to the spread of Islam they always encouraged religions centering on one God and His Love, emphasising humanity above all. Because of this they were highly respected by all.

In Dhaka city there are 127 majar (shrines) devoted to spiritual leaders. Hazrat Shah Ali’s majar at Mirpur and Gulap Shah’s Majar are the most famous. The Shah Ali’s majar is situated in Mirpur-1 area.

In 1577 Shah Ali Baghdadi (called Baghdadi as he came from Baghdad) came to Hindustan from Bagdad.

He moved to Mirpur, starting the mission in Dhaka by repairing the mosque at Mirpur, where he lived until he passed away in 1607. His shrine has become a centre for pilgrimage. Thousands of people come to pray every day, seeking good luck and or spiritual salvation. Every Thursday there is an organized special prayer session and many people gather to sing and make offerings.

The shrine committee established a market on the periphery of the majar where candles, agorbati (aroma) along with the Holy Quran and religious books are available for pilgrims to buy and make offerings. Along with religious products food, toys and posters are also on sale here. In the grounds there is also a place where beggars may beg under the banyan tree while the stoic singer of songs, to the accompaniment of local instruments arranges the sermon.

The income from the market is used for the development of the shrine. During Urosh (birthday of Shah Ali) a special celebration is organized for a huge number of devotee followers, from home and aboard, who come together to celebrate. During Urosh (and weekly prays) the management of the shrine distributes free khichuri (hospitality food). The food is supplied from the donations of the followers of Shah Ali. To fulfill their obligations the people donate money, livestock and food. Subadar Islam Khan, the successor of Shah Ali repaired and modernized the shrine and mosque in 1807.

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There are two other markets in Mirpur with the name of Shah Ali. There are the three-storied market named Shah Ali Shopping Complex and the Shah Ali General market, built by the government. The government now administers the majar and its markets. All kinds of ladies, gents and baby wear; cosmetics, ornaments, electronic products, and food are widely available in Shah Ali Shopping Complex. The Shah Ali general market sells daily needs including vegetables, fish, meat, rice, fruit and grocery items. Beside the established shops many mobile small shops and hawkers are found in the market area.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1mpfgmJ9ic

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59 Zia Uddan Chandrima Uddan is situated beside the National Parliament of Bangladesh. The park has always been popular but it became more so after it was decided to bury Ziaur Rahman the late Bangladesh president here. The former BNP government built a monument dedicated to Ziaur Rahman in the form of a mosque centered on his mausoleum. The name was also changed to Zia Uddan by the Khaleda Zia BNP government. However, it is still popularly known as Chandrima Uddan both names now seem to apply. The park, although in the main city, is a protected area and not available for development.

It is a well-organized recreational area with an excellent plantation, lake and modern bridge at the entrance.

Everyday thousands of people visit Zia’s shrine although young visitors seem more interested in recreation than the shrine. Most of the visitors come with friends and or family members and relax. Visitors from outside of Dhaka commonly come to visit Zia’s Majar to pay homage to the former President and founder of the BNP. As thousands of people visit the park an informal market has been created where large numbers of hawkers sell recreation products and the Bangla snacks jalnuri, chanachur, badam, pan, cigarette, tea, coffee, toys, and posters of General Zia. The park has also become a spot where couples can meet free from the strictures of home. Late in the evening it is also a place where prostitutes congregate to meet their main clients the rickshaw pullers, gypsies and homeless workers.

On Fridays and Saturdays huge numbers of visitors come to the park where they witness different types of street performances including Baul songs, the monkey dance, circus performances, magicians and bajimat (target shooting). Gambling is also available as part of the festive environment that has been created at Chandrima Uddan. The park provides an environmental balance to the unplanned, urbanized and oftenchaotic Dhaka City.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzEuaKBL1kU

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60 Sukrabad Bazaar Sukrabad Bazaar is adjacent to the historical Road 32, Dhanmondi where the residence of the founder of Bangladesh, Sheikh Mujiba Rahman, is located. Bangabandhu (Father of Nation) was murdered here, together his family members, on 15 August 1975. The house is now known as Bangabandhu Memorial Museum and is considered to be a memorial to the Bangladesh liberation war and movement. (During filming of Sukrabad Bazaar for Live Bits and Fresh Bits the day of national mourning was celebrated. The Mirpur Road, close to Sukrabad Bazaar was covered with the black posters, flags, festoons and banners with the Bangabandhu’s portrait).

Although Sukrabad Bazaar is a medium-sized market in Dhanmondi region it has retained its once important position as a shopping area. The inhabitants of Shukrabad, Shubabanbag and West Dhanmondi depend on the market for their daily needs particularly for vegetables, fish, meat, rice, and spices. The main bazaar consists of three small markets founded by a local entrepreneur. Within the bazaar there is a grocery shop, a Bangla food restaurant, school stationery shops and hardware shops. There is also a rickshaw station on the main road, which has photocopy shops, news agencies and key maker lining its sides.

Altogether there are around one hundred shops. There is also a floating hawker’s market where Chotpoti Wallah (Bangla snacks) and Cha Wallah (tea sellers) offer their products. This Bazaar starts at 7:00 AM and closes at 10:00 PM everyday.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrZ3QaU3Ip8

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61 Mohakhali Market Mohakhali is an important and busy area in Dhaka City. Many important offices and institutions are located here. Mohakhali Bus terminal is one of the most important terminals of Dhaka City. Every day thousands of people, particularly from greater Mymensingh region, travel to this bus terminal. Moreover, the first flyover-bridge of the country was built at the Mohakhali rail crossing to reduce traffic-jams, which characterize the Bangladesh transportation sector.

Mohakhali General Market is situated beside the flyover bridge close to the Dhaka-Mymenshingh highway.

Once it was a hawker’s market but in 1983 the Dhaka City Corporation built a two-storied modern building as part of the market. There are now 216 shops on two floors of this market that sell fish, meat, vegetables, eggs, rice and all kinds of daily needs on the ground floor and groceries, stationery, garment accessories, electric items on the second floor. A mosque is located on the first floor of this market.

Once this general market was heavily patronised but numbers have declined because of traffic congestion and competition from nearby markets. Although the Mohakhali General Market has lost it previous popularity it still has a great impact on the daily life of Mohakhali and nearby areas.

Many open-air fruits shops are found in front of Mohakhali General Market. A number of floating shops and hawkers are also seen on the road side area where low-priced goods, sunglasses, watches, toys, fashion items, shoes, belts, books, magazine, CDs and cassette are sold. However, the front side of the market has become very crowded because a small bus stop is located here for city services and long distance travel as well. As a consequence some restaurants and tea-stalls are busy catering to the local bus passengers. The bus stop also attracts a number of beggars who move around to hunt the passengers. At nighttime the place has become a shelter for homeless people.

Everyday the market opens at 7:00 AM and closes at 9:00 PM.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-bjPwNweJxY

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62 Shamoli Street Market The Shamoli General Market is very new and has grown dramatically since it was established three years ago on the east side of Shamoli Club Field. Three years before it was built the local people were dependent on the street markets to buy vegetable, fish and meat. There is also a modern BDR shop in the general market, which is now run by a local businessman. This market fulfills the daily needs of the huge number local people. The street market remains but does n’t have the same attraction for shoppers. Immediately adjacent to the market is a cinema that has been closed, which in turn affects the hawkers floating shops in the street market.

The street market close to the former cinema hall sells a wide range of fruit. The shopping center itself has Bangla food restaurants, stationery shops, a vocational training center, fashion product outlets, a mobile phone and electronics service center.

The general market is similar to any other community-based market in Dhaka. As Shamoli is situated in the western periphery of Dhaka it is not developing as quickly as new Dhaka. However, there are huge number low income, marginalized and working class people in the area as well as slum dwellers who are mostly environmental refugees. To these classes of people, Shamoli General Market and the street market are important as they sell a range of products at very reasonable prices.

There is no holiday for the market but on Fridays they attract less people. Before and after office hours is the busiest time for Shamoli as the main road links Dhaka with North Bengal and is thus always busy.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=znZGdhv1fRI

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63 Car Market The number of cars and motorized vehicles is increasing rapidly in Bangladesh despite the lack of infrastructure. Car retailing has become an important sector in marketing. Kuril Bishwa Road, Gulshan, Kakrial and Dhanmondi, are the four main car retail areas in Dhaka. The dramatic increase in car sales in the past decade has lead to major traffic congestion in Dhaka in particular. The demand for vehicles comes from the rich people who desire the luxurious new models of cars.

When looking the Dhaka traffic from the vantage point of any over-bridge one is confronted by a huge number of cars on the roads, which makes it difficult to believe Bangladesh is a developing country in which the majority of people are poor. The increased number of cars may be attributed to increased business activity and a high level of corruption that makes the country poorer. The centralized nature of power in Bangladesh also contributes to this situation. The power holding groups are the main clients of the car markets. On average 400-500 cars are sold each month in the car markets of Dhaka City. After Dhaka, the port city, Chittagong, is the second largest car market in Bangladesh. Friday is the official holiday of all car markets.

As the traffic jams of Dhaka increase due to the number of cars on the roads, congestion becomes a major issue for the city administration. However, the government is now thinking of an alternative transportation system for the city by introducing a modern train system, and generally increasing public transport.

Unfortunately much of the blame for traffic congestion is placed on the shoulders of the rickshaw pullers.

The World Bank and IMF have recommended that this ecofriendly vehicle be evicted from the main roads by declaring major roads as VIP (Very Important Persons) roads. However, the present democratic government has chosen to impose a large tax on cars imported to control the growth of the industry.

Compared to other countries the number of cars in Bangladesh is not a large but they have become a headache for most people using the roads of Dhaka.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7o4qVFnft6Q

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64 Farmgate Street Market Farmgate is a busy focal point in Dhaka City. It has been an important market area since Dhaka began to modernise. Bus, CNGs and rickshaws connect Farmgate to all important places in Dhaka City. It is, in short, a major communication hub for Dhaka.

Farm View, Shezan Point, Mahbub Plaza and many other multistoried modern shopping centres are located here as well as a large street market. This is one of the biggest street markets in Dhaka City and everyday large numbers of people gather in Farmgate to conduct business. They buy their necessary products and other commodities (which are usually cheap) in this street market. There are all kinds of cloths, toys, ladies’ and gents’ fashion products, electronic items, plastic items, crockery and all necessary things needed in family and personal life on sale here. Tea-stalls, restaurants, fast food outlets, juice shops, pan and cigarette shops and a number of hawkers are also found in this area all the time. Farmgate Street Market has a great significance for contemporary life of Dhaka City. The market starts at 7:00 AM and closes at 10:00 PM each day.

Beside the market there is a nice small park in this area, which is a good place for the wayfarers to rest and refresh and enjoy themselves.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlhMQt5oiEM

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65 Shishu Mela In 1994 the children’s recreational park named Shishumela (Children’s Park) was established opposite the ASHA Tower in Shamoli. This park opens every day at 11:00 AM and closes at 10:00 PM. Entry fee to the park Tk.20 per head. There are many funny and exciting rides available for children here. . Huge numbers of children come from Mohammedpur, Shamoli, Kalanpur and Agargoan to play at the park. There is a 3D cinema hall, a tunnel rail, a magic show and a learning center. Moreover, there is CD-VCD cassettes shops, a food corner, toys and fashion items shops selling goods inside the park. Every Friday and Saturday and all government holidays this park attracts huge numbers of parents and their children, particularly lower middle class and marginalized children and their parents, who don’t have the option to visit the modern Children Park because it is expensive. In a city of bricks, this is a really a good place for refreshment and peace.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySqfH1n5WwE

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66 Panthapath Furniture Market Apartment, schools, colleges, offices and other institutions in Dhaka are expanding to meet the needs of the rapidly increasing population of Dhaka City. To fulfill the need for house and interior decoration many furniture markets have been built in different parts of Dhaka city. Pantha Path Furniture Market is Dhaka’s biggest and most important furniture market.

The market is located just opposite Bashundhara City, which is Dhaka’s first mega shopping mall and spreads over a considerable distance of Panthapath on the north side of the road. In this famous furniture market all kinds of wood, bamboo, cane, iron, plastic and steel furniture is available. Along with furniture made from foreign ships’ wood (usually salvaged in Chittagong), well known Bangladesh branded ready made furniture is sold in this market.

Cots, almirahs, showcases, chairs, tables, sofas, alnas and other local forms of furniture are commonly produced in the shops of Pantha Path furniture market. School, college and office furniture is also supplied from this market according to order. Wednesday is the holiday of this market. 9 am to 8 pm are the official hours of the market

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQRcXT1Fono

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67 Kawran Bazaar Kawran Bazaar is the biggest and most famous wholesale general market in Dhaka City. All kinds of vegetables, fish, rice and other commodities are supplied to the small markets from here. At the end of eighteenth century Kawran Singh, a Marwari merchant, first established the bazaar Later it was extended and developed into 1255 stores, of which 55 are owned by Dhaka City Corporation.

There is no holiday in the market, which operates a 24 hours a day but the early morning is the peak hour for the wholesale and fish markets. Starting at 12 A.M, the vegetables and goods come from around the country. Many trucks and pick-ups carry and bring commodities here from different places. The gathering of clients becomes concentrated in the early morning, around 4-7 O’clock, when the small markets open.

As many clients watch movies during the nights, the restaurants of Kawran Bazaar are opens 24 hours, and sell delicious Bangla dishes. Comparatively the price of food in these restaurants is high. A residential hotel, tea-stalls, pan and cigarettes shops can be found at the bazaar.

Many prominent newspapers, TV stations, media centers, government agencies and multinational companies’ head offices are situated in the Kawran Bazaar area. The five star hotel Pan Pacific Sonargaon is situated just near the bazaar.

Fresh Bits URL : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYRHFWAcvhg

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68 Shangshad Bhaban Jatiyo Shangshad Bhaban is the National Assembly Building of Bangladesh. It is the political centre of the country. Construction of this distinctive building which was designed by Louis Cahn, started in 1961 and finished in 1982. This building was first used in 15th February 1982. Before this the Prime Minister’s present office was used as the Shangshad Bhaban.

Shangshad Bhaban is built in 200 acres of attractive gardens. Everyday many visitors come here to see and enjoy the natural scenery of the area. The area has also become a recreation park as well. In the morning many health conscious people come for their morning walk and in the evening huge numbers of boys and girls visit the park. To cater for these people an unofficial street market has become established. Many chapati and fuchka shops are found in this area. Beside these there are stall selling toys, fashion items, cigarettes, tea and coffee. At one time a Pilipino Jeepni was used as a mobile restaurant but during the caretaker government’s time ( 2007-2008) the Jeepni mobile restaurant was evicted.

Crescent Lake and Zia Uddan are situated to the rear of Shangshad Bhaban. Floating shops and hawkers are found all around this building. All street shops operate everyday of the week. On weekly holidays and during government holidays this street market becomes crowded with customers.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9nMZPSfqmo&

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69 Bashundhara Mega Mall Bashundhara Mega Mall is the biggest shopping market in South Asia. It is regarded in Dhaka as an ultra modern shopping centre, situated on Panthapath, a major thoroughfare of Dhaka City. This modern shopping mall emerged from a project to provide Bangladeshis with a similar quality shopping experience to those experienced in the west. Approximately 25 000 customers and visitors visit this market each day.

The market has a strong security system and is furnished with all the latest consumer facilities.

The Bashundhara City is a twenty-one storied building designed by architect Dr. Md. Foyjullah in 2004.

The famous Bashundhara Group of Companies founded the market.

The first eight floors are used as a shopping centre and the rest of the floors are used for corporate office space by leading companies and business organizations. Cell phone and electronics shops dominate the ground floor, whereas floors one through six are used by a diverse range of retail outlets selling fashion wear, jewelry, fashion products, toys, CD-VCDs and many other products. A number of fast food shops are in the food court on the seventh floor. The main clients for the fast food outlets are young couples whose main purpose for coming to the mall seems to be to chatter and flirt in a free environment.

There is a also a modern and luxurious Cine Plex in the market. It specialises in first releases, exhibiting the global films that are also screened in the west. Furthermore, there is also a kid’s playing place on the seventh floor called “Toggi” that attracts the children of rich families.

Wednesday is the holiday of this up-market shopping market. On other days it opens at 9:00 AM and closes at 9:00 PM. regularly.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbX_5qU9ODg

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70 Dhanmondi 27 Dhanmondi Road no 27 of Dhanmondi, is a very important place. Along with series of apartments building there is a huge number of business and shopping centers built by developers which distorted the residential nature of Dhanmondi and turned the suburb into a commercial area. A few years ago it was a very quiet but now traffic-jams have become a big problem especially at school opening and closing times. There is a number of English mediem schools in the are. Students are transported to and from school by car.

Moreover there few no parking space in the area. The footpath is generally used for parking, which makes people suffer. Despite high rents of this area the institutions, super shop, restaurant, banks, clinic, college and private universities have all established themselves in this expanding business zone.

PQS, Meena Bazar and Nandan are well known and pioneer shopping markets situated here. Fish, meat, vegetables, rice, stationery item, grocery items and all kinds of daily needs, including local and imported products on sales in these modern shopping centers. Up-markets, modern and well-known restaurants can be found in this area. Xindian, Xenial, Candle light, Cheers, Nando’s are the most important of them. Rapa Plaza, on of the first and most famous of the Dhaka city is built in Dhanmondi-27.

Branch of bank HSBC Bank (including the ATM booth ), Arena Multimedia, private hospitals, and Grameen Phone offices are located here. The Bangla Art Gallery is close to Drik Gallery. These to galleries play an important role in the cultural and visual arts development of Bangladesh, allowing the country to present herself on the global stage with dignity. Dhanmondi-27 is an important area because it allows us to understand how modern Dhakai life has evolved. The area also reminds us that consumerism has become important in many sections of Dhakai society.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BucRHulU0iM

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71 Town Hall Market Mohammadpur and Lalmatia are closed to the developed up-markets area of Dhanmondi but they have some way to go before they rival this major suburb. The area is still largely underdeveloped although most of the local people are middle or lower middle class. Nowadays some high-rise and modern apartment buildings can be found in the areas but the number is limited. The main market in the suburb is the Town Hall Market, which is big and retails all kinds of needed daily products. Despite its size and popularity the market has not been modernized. There are three mosques in the bazaar area, which indicates the piousness of the local inhabitants.

This bazaar started after independence and has been administered and extended by the city corporation.

There is a large two-storied building but the vegetable and fruit markets still sit in an open-air environment.

There are a variety of items sold in the stores of this market. The ground floor of the building is totally covered with shops but the first floor is still not yet open. At the front of the first floor a number of notary public advocates’ offices can be found.

Beside the retail sellers there are also some wholesale shops selling to the community. Vegetables, fish, meat, broiler hens, eggs, grocery items, stationery, crockery and daily needs are widely sold in the market.

At the front of the market there is a corner of where a translation service is located, close to the offices of the notaries. There are also as hawkers area and floating tea stalls, selling snacks such as chopori and kebabs.

Just behind of Town Hall Market there is a newly built mosque where plastic items and crockery are sold.

A notable feature of the Town Hall Market is the Labor Market. Early every morning a huge number of laborers, who are mostly construction workers, assemble here hoping for work.

Although this market is situated inside Dhaka and administered by the civic body, there are strong rumors that it is a centre for the drug business, which is controlled by a local gang. A few years ago the popular city campaigner against drugs, Raju, was killed here, it is alleged by the gang. There is now a monument in front of the market dedicated to Raju. The law and order situation has improved in the democratic environment that now prevails and the influence of the gang appears diminished.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJNJMzaE1fM

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72 Krishi Market The Krishi Market is situated in the under developed suburb of Mohammadpur in Dhaka City. The Krishi Market is famous for rice wholesaling. Once the area was considered as a crime zone but now through a government initiative the situation has changed. Rice is supplied to neighboring market and shops from Krishi Market.

The sanitation and environment has also improved after the establishment the Japan Garden City development.The Krishi Market was established in 1981 by the government, and is controlled by Dhaka City Corporation. There are 150 shops in the market. There is also a newly built market called Notun Krishi Bazaar, nearby where garments, groceries, stationery, vegetables and fish are sold at reasonable prices.

There are almost 500 shops in the Notun Krishi Market. Along with a general fashion corner there are separate fish, meat and poultry corners. In the fashion corner clothes, cosmetics, toys, gifts, crockery, clocks, electronics, jewelry, plastic items and household products are sold. In front of market there are also many Bangla food restaurants, pharmacies, tea-stalls, cigarette shops and fruit shops as well as a mobile kebab shop.

Mohammadpur Krishi Market and the new general market are comparatively big government markets.

Friday is a half-day and Saturday is a full holiday for Krishi Market but the new general market remains open at all times.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ehAvD0b5GY

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73 Geneva Camp Bazaar Bangladesh became independent in 1971 after vicious civil war in which millions of lives were lost. During the Pakistani period, Bangladeshi people were persecuted and exploited in all aspects of life and politics.

After the liberation of Bangladesh, a huge number of Pakistani citizens, most of who were against the Bangladeshi liberation war, remained in Bangladesh. In 1972 the Bangladesh government established the Geneva Refugee Camps (that complied with the Geneva Convention) in 116 locations, including Dhaka City, Khulna, Soiyadpur, Mymensingh, Rangpur, Bogura and Iswardi districts to house the refugees.

Mohammadpur Geneva Camp is one of the largest refugee camps in Dhaka City where 5000 people still live thirty-eight years after the event. To fulfill the needs of the camp dwellers an unofficial market has been established and there are shops selling a variety of items on the periphery of the camp. In total the number of shops in the camp exceeds 800. Readymade wear, fashion products, cosmetics, stationery, household products, crockery, movies, Pakistani food, tea, pan, cigarette and so on are widely available. In the small general market vegetables, fish, meat, rice are sold as well. Close to College Gate there are roadside shops that specialize in cars, providing garages and workshops.

Although all the shops provide the necessary good for living the people of the Geneva camp lead a miserable life, as they are detached from normal society and fear for their lives. When the camp was established each family was assigned 16 square feet to live in as a temporary measure. Now a third generation has been born into these conditions.

The children grow up in shocking conditions and face the risks of child labor, drugs and HIV/AIDS. They live in these small, overcrowded places and suffer a lot. They cook, they sleep and they do business from the same room. No minimum health and sanitation security is provided and they move around in narrow and dirty walkways that smell of garbage and human waste.

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It is difficult to be a good citizen in these conditions. Only 10% of children go to primary school with only 2% having a chance to study in high school. Most children start life by doing hard work at a car workshop or at a jamdani sari design shop with a minimum salary 15-30 taka per day (approximately 40 to 50 US cents).

(The people of the Geneva Camp are divided into two groups. One group still wants to return to Pakistan and their organizations SPARC. The other group wishes to remain in Bangladesh and become citizens and their association is called The Association of Young Generation. Around 25% of people are members of SPARC while 75% support The Association of Young Generation.

Until 2003 the camp dwellers had no citizenship rights in Bangladesh despite the fact they were 2nd and 3rd generation born . In 2003 and 2008 the Supreme Court of Bangladesh gave Bangladeshi Citizenship and rights to these people who may now possess a national ID card and be listed in the national voter lists.)

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y736IJAV-64

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74 Rickshaw Tour Dhanmondi to Mohammadpur The Satmasjid Road links Dhanmondi and Mohammadpur directly, from Rifle Square to the Mohammadpur bus stand. The road not only links two areas but also in reality two distinct lifestyles. The inhabitants of Dhanmondi are comparatively rich, well-educated and lead a modern life that is reflected in the shopping centers, apartments and institutions located in the suburb. Mohammadpur is the opposite, still clinging to past modes of living and traditions. Moreover Mohammadpur struggles to ensure a secure, quality living environment for its inhabitants ensuring that the elite classes are not attracted to live in Mohammadpur.

Satmasjid Road is an important road. Huge numbers of schools, colleges, universities, hospitals, restaurants, offices, mosques, residential buildings, bus stands line both sides of the road. Dhanmondi is designated as a residential area but it is becoming increasingly important as a commercial area.

Rifle Square, BDR Head Quarters, University of Liberal Arts Bangladesh, Northern University, Medinova, Asia Pacific University, UIU, Stamford University, State University, Almaz, Anam Rangs Plaza, OTOBI, IBN Sina, Meena Bazar, Grameen Phone, Shankor Plaza, Cyanot are all important modern organizations found along the road and thus contribute to its growing importance as a commercial centre. However, Sharirik Shiksha College, the Graphic Arts Institute, Commercial College, the Police Station are situated on the Mohammadpur side.

Moreover Abahoni Playing Ground, Star Kebab, Fukhruddin Restaurant, Koraie Gosto, Four Seasons, Baburchi, Loylati, Utshob, Brukoli, KFC, Four Seasons and a number of fast food shops have added to the value of the road as an entertainment area.

During Live Bits we screened a view of the road from a rickshaw that was ridden down the street and which provides the audience with a good virtual experience of both Satmasjid Road and riding rickshaw in dense traffic.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7Q_F-WbVe8

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75 Shankar Plaza Nijam’s Shankar Plaza is situated opposite the famous Chayanot Cultural Building, beside Satmasjid Road.

This seven story commercial building was built in 2003.

A small shopping market can be found on the first two floor of Nijam’s Shankar Plaza. All kinds of shirts, pants, sari, shalwar kemeezes, babies’ wear; fashion wear and fashion products, cosmetics, stationery, shoes, movies and many other commodities are on sale in this market. Besides these, sweetmeats shop, beauty parlors, a food corner, a restaurant and a cyber café are also available in this market. A health diagnostic center occupies the 3rd and 5th floors while the Center for Computer Service (CCS) is found on the 4th floor. A private university, UDA, occupies the sixth and seventh floors. Friday is the holiday of Shankar Plaza. Except for Friday the commercial building opens at 9:00 AM and closes at 10 PM regularly.

There are a bus stand, a taxi stand and a rickshaw stand located just in front of Shankar Plaza. This place is one of the busiest places in Dhanmondi. Bangla food shops, grocery shops, fruits and vegetables shops, meat shops, a bank booth, tea stalls, capture the spirit of Shankar. These illegal and unofficial shops makes walking freely very difficult, something compounded by the constant rickshaw jam outside the bazaar.

Change has come to the area with the rapid development of modern apartments along the street. But compared to most areas of Dhanmondi the location is not well- developed as the housing, shopping and lifestyle have generally inherited the old tradition. As the house rent is low, a huge number of low salaried people live in the Shankar area.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVP4TqbcbYU

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76 Rayer Bazaar Rayer Bazaar City Corporation Market was built in 1965. It’s a historical and traditional market in Dhaka City. This area is named Rayer Bazaar of the bazaar although the location has another name, Sultan Ganj, which is found on signboards, banners and festoons but Rayer Bazaar is the most popular name to the people. People from the Dhanmondi, Hazaribag and Sultan Ganj areas are the main customers of this bazaar. Once the bazaar was on the bank of the the Buriganga River but now the riverbanks have been illegally reclaimed for buildings. Although Buriganga River has diminished in size it remains a powerful force in the lives of the people living near its banks.

The original beauty of Bangladesh can be found in a village on the opposite side of Buriganga River from the bazaar. All kinds of fresh vegetables, fishes and other things come Rayer Bazaar from this village, meaning the commodities of this bazaar are always fresh, tasty and in demand. There are 550 shops in the Bazaar. Vegetables, fruits, fish, meat, grocery items, stationary items and all kinds of daily needs are sold in this market. Beside these items, hardware, crockery, cosmetic, readymade garments, tailors, metallic products, gifts and many other necessary products are sold.

A beautiful mosque was built in 1971 beside this bazaar. In addition many small restaurants, tea-stalls, pancigarette shops and hawkers are found in this area. Everyday this bazaar starts at 7:00 AM and closes at 9:00 PM. The Dhaka City Corporation has a plan to develop the site with a multistoried building.

Bodhovum’ (the killing place) is located here. During the independence struggle many Bangladeshi intellectuals were arrested and brought to this spot and executed. The Government has established a monument here to recognize the large number of Bengalis who sacrificed their lives for the nation.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Prn-LjmiUlI

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77 Shubhanbag The area is a part of Dhanmondi close to the Mirpur Road. It is the business area and includes a number of shopping malls and centers but there is only one proper market close to Shubhanbag mosque. However, over the last few decades the areas has been quickly urbanized by developers. Now there are a number of big shopping malls and the footpath is filled up with a huge number of parked cars.

From Russell Square to Rapa Plaza there are restaurants, shopping malls, fashion houses, video making markets, book and photo copying stores. Metro Shopping Mall, Plaza AR, Prince Plaza, Orchid Plaza and Rapa Plaza are famous shopping malls in Shubhanbag. There are also famous restaurants located here, such as Chillis and Tahari Goar.

The main clients of the market are the elite class of Dhanmondi. Each shopping mall has a number of fast food outlets and coffee shops where the young boys and girls can meet and chat.

The main products on sale in the malls are fashion products, global branded clothes, cosmetics, jewelry, mobiles and electronics. As the shops are well decorated the price is comparatively high and the lower middle class prefer not to shop in the malls of Shubhanbag.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xydFjD5FrUQ

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78 Hazaribag Bazaar Hazaribag in old Dhaka is famous for the tannery industry, although it is facing a struggle to survive until recently it was a good business for foreign currency earnings. The Leather Technology College of Bangladesh is situated here.

There are 360 tanneries, of varying size, located at Hazaribag. The size of the industry means that there is a big problem with wastage and pollution from chemicals; consequently the government has taken a decision to shift the industry outside of Dhaka by 2010.

Along with tannery and leather related businesses, there is a general market at Hazaribag that was started before independence. As a locally managed initiative the market received its registration in 1994. Today there are almost 400 different types of shops at Hazaribag. In the general market we find vegetables, fish, meat, rice, grocery items, stationery items and everyday commodities for sale. There is also, a readymade garments and tailoring area plus fruit shops, restaurants, tea-stalls and so on found in the Bazaar. This bazaar starts at 7:00 AM and closes at 11:00 PM everyday. There is no holiday for this bazaar.

The head offices of all leather companies of Bangladesh are located at Hazaribag and consequently it is quite a rich area. However, it’s a living place for workers and officials of the leading factories, which means there are a number of slums and slum-like residential areas in Hazaribag Baribath.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GvafFzTTRRA

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79 Rajdhani Super Market Rajdhani Super Market is the best-known market for women fashion products of the Dhaka City. Mostly middle and lower middle class woman frequent it, as all types of products; from household commodities to cooking utensils are available in the market.

Covering a huge area at Tikatoli the market was established by the Muktijudha Kolan Trust (Freedom Fighter Welfare Trust) under the Ministry of Muktijuddo (Freedom Fighters Welfare). Within this huge market there is a wide range of products available at reasonable prices, which attracts a large clientele.

There are 1200 shops were saris, fashion garments, shoes, clothe, dress design material, cosmetics and cooking utensils are available. Initially Indian-made products dominated this market but now it is the Chinese product that dominates along with locally made goods.

Based on the market tea stall idea, Bangla fast food restaurants have been established in the market area, As it is now Ramadan, they are hidden by cloth, but inside of the stall the people, particularly the younger generation who don’t fast, take food. Opening time for the market is 9.00 morning and it closes at 10.00 at night. Friday is the weekly holiday of Rajdhani Market.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJw7JRabj88

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80 Rifles Square Rifle Square is a modern shopping center situated in Dhanmondi. The main camp of BDR (Bangladesh Rifles) is situated beside this market. The name Rifle Square is comes from its proximaity to this BDR Camp. A modern daily products Bazaar named “Agora� is situated to one side of this market.

This modern shopping center is opposite Dhanmondi Lake. There are about 360 shops in the market. All stores are well decorated and full of local and imported products. All kinds of readymade wear, shirt, pants, sharis, three pieces, babies wear, toys, cosmetics, jewelry, electronics product, shoes, crockery, gifts, card galleriesy, mobile phone shops, movies, fashion product and many needed products are on sales in this market. Some modern food corners are also available here where a number of young people chat but the main attraction for the young is the courtyard. They assemble here most afternoons to chat and have fun.

The product quality in this market is high and they carry international prices. This market brings the taste of western life in the life to Dhaka City. Friday is the holiday for this market. This shopping center is a business concern of the Bangladesh Rifles and it conducted by the Bangladesh Rifles.

Fresh Bits URL : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUTsM48tuPU

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81 Jatrabari Street Market The previous name of Jatrabari was Brammonchiron when the best way of reaching this place was a water vessel. In the past, when there was no TV, cinema and electronic entertainment media, the Jatrapala (local Bangla form of drama) was very popular place for recreation. In this area there is a famous Jatramondop.

Because of the wide practice of jatra culture, the place name became Jatrabari.

Jatrabari has become one of the one the busiest streets of Dhaka City. Thousands of people visit the place as it is a connection point for a number of districts. There are always huge traffic jams particularly as the street market has captured the footpath illegally. People cannot move easily in Jatrabari.

Jatrabari is a bus stop even though it is close to the famous bus station Sayadabath. It is a dangerous area for pedestrians as it’s always crammed with buses, cars and taxis that seem to be in constant movement.

More over, the rickshaws increase the traffic.. The area is situated in Old Dhaka, where it is said people are not concerned about education but very serious about money making.

There are a huge number of restaurants, which unfortunately don’t have a good reputation in regard to providing hygienic food. It is a part of the city where the traditional herbal Kabiraji and Hakimi medicine systems are practiced and despite the possible health risks they are advertised with huge banners draped across the streets and buildings..

Like as other street markets, Jartrabari street market is known for low quality, cheap goods. Nowadays a number of modern shopping centers have been established in the market, mostly selling clothes, cosmetics and fashion products.

Fresh Bits URL : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQ-mqrUmA6c&

84 80+1 JOURNEY AROUND DHAKA

82 Computer City BCS Computer City is the biggest computer market of Bangladesh. In 1999 with 100000 square feel of space , this market was started. It is situated at Agargaon, She-e-Bangla Nagoor of Dhaka City. There are 322 modern computer and accessories shops.

Like other developing nations, the digital divide in Bangladesh is pronounced, but the computer city has made access to technology, particularly among the young generation, much easier thereby softening the divide to some extent. However, problems remain. There are real problems with the high price of computers in Bangladesh and the English base of most computing makes it inaccessible to many people. To overcome these problems the Bangladesh government has declared it will create a Digital Bangladesh by 2021 by providing the technology for all.

The businessmen of the computer city, however, control the introduction of computer technology to the country through their contracts on brand name products. Hardware, software, computer, laptops, DVD, movie, Internet and computer magazine are the common products on sale in this market. A nineteen storey ultra modern building called IDB Bhaban is attached to BCS Computer City. Friday is the holiday for this market.

This computer market starts at 9:00 AM and closes at 8:00 PM. A number of customer and visitors gather here all day long. Everyday many new model computer and other imported products are introduced to the public. Computer City has a security system.

Fresh Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAcuUs2nf2g

85 80+1 JOURNEY AROUND DHAKA

Ending Final Destination The Media Studies and Journalism (MSJ) Department of the University of Liberal Arts Bangladesh (ULAB, http://www.ulab.edu.bd ) hosted the Bangladesh component of the 80plus1 “A Journey Around the World” on September 7, 2009, between 5:00 to 6:00 p.m. in the ULAB Seminar Room, Campus B, Dhanmondi, Dhaka City. The activity, spearheaded by ULAB Lecturer Shahjahan Siraj, brought together, via satellite hook-up and fiber optic cable technology, students, faculty and professionals from Austria and Bangladesh.

The closing ceremony started with the welcome speech from Professor Jude Genilo, the Chairman of Media Studies and Journalism Department, ULAB. After the opening comments 80+1 artist, Shahjahan Siraj shared his experiences of the project with the audience, which was moved by watching the video Dhakai Market View.

The Moderator, Mr. Imtiaz Ahmed Chowdhury facilitated the question and answer session between the audiences in Dhaka and Linz. The topics for discussion was relevant to market culture, journalism and technologies. The ceremony was closed with thanks given to MSJ for hosting the final destination of this segment of the 80+1 project. On behalf of 80+1 Mr. Siraj handed over a certificate to Professor Genilo in recognition of ULAB’s contribution.

Flash Bits URL: http://www.youtube.com/basecampmarkets#play/all/uploads-all/3/m3Pxqeb5-mo

86 80+1 JOURNEY AROUND DHAKA

80+1, Dhaka Team

Coordinator and Artist Shahjahan Siraj Editor Brian Shoesmith Advisor Matsuzaki Misuzu Cinematographer and Editor Jahangir Alam Researcher Md. Shujauddawla Live Bits Associates and Photographers Ratan Majumder, Towfiq Allahi Obidul Rashid Mamun, Jahangir Alam, Arif Arman Cooperation Shohel, Nuruzzaman, Hasan, Abir, Yunus Thanks to Jude Genilo, Juditha Ohlmacher