HIDDEN GEMS
CEYLON SAPPHIRES
An ancient Persian legend says that the earth itself rests on a giant sapphire, and that the sky is a reflection of the sapphire's colour‌
A project possible thanks to
Miner in Sri Lanka Eranga Basnayake Jewellery Designer Nathalie LaRoche - Embellie, Ltd Art Gallery Magpie International Andreia Pina & Julian Wheeler
HIDDEN GEMS - CEYLON SAPPHIRES (book) Design & Production Magpie International Photography Eranga Basnayake Nathalie LaRoche Texts Nathalie LaRoche Andreia Pina References https://www.gia.edu/sapphire-history-lore https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sapphire
CEYLON SAPPHIRES
HISTORY Despite its Greek etymology, the history of the sapphire is believed to begin in Sri Lanka as it has historically been a leading producer of sapphires. These gems have long been a part of the national culture - in fact, they have likely been a part of the Sri Lankan gem trade for over 2500 years. Sri Lanka is also (arguably) the only place in the world that is home to a highly prized, orange and pink sapphire called padparadscha, which means lotus ower in Sinhalese.
The popularity of sapphire stones in engagement rings has waxed and waned throughout history. They ďŹ rst grew in popularity during the 13th century, when it was widely believed that the colour of the sapphire in a ring would fade if it was worn by an impure or unfaithful person. Based on this belief, Pope Innocent III instituted a mandatory waiting period before marriage in order to see whether any colour fading occurred.
There was a resurgence of sapphire engagement rings during the 14th and 15th centuries among royal families due to the belief that sapphires symbolized love, truth and commitment. That conviction was then solidiďŹ ed in the 18th century by writer Mme de Jenlis. Her fable Le Sapphire Merviellence linked sapphires to ďŹ delity, creating a fresh demand for sapphire engagement rings.
In the beginning of the 20th century, during the Art Deco period, sapphire rings grew popular once again. Diamond engagement rings accented by a halo of sapphires or other colourful stones were a popular trend during this time. Since then the history of the sapphire has repeated itself and sapphires are once again the centre stone in many engagement rings.
The 433-carat Logan surrounded by diamonds, in a cushion cut. Its purity and exceptional brilliance can be admired at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington.
The 116-carat Midnight Star, astonishing in its purple-violet colour, visible at the New York Museum of Natural History.
The fabulous 563-carat Indian Star, also visible at the New York Museum of Natural History.
MINEROLOGY Sapphires and rubies are varieties of the mineral corundum, consisting of crystals of aluminum oxide (Al2O3) which are naturally colourless, containing impurities (oxides) which give them their colour. Chromium gives red color to ruby while titanium and iron transmit blue to sapphire. Vanadium for purple, chrome for pink, iron for yellow and green.
ClassiďŹ ed in the group of oxides, sapphires have no cleavage (natural plans of breakage). Its appearance can be pyramidal, prismatic, tabular or in keg. Its crystalline system is trigonal. Of a remarkable hardness, the sapphire is the second hardest stone after the diamond, ranked 9 out of 10 on the Mohs hardness scale. Sapphires can be heat treated: the stones, too bright, too dark or with many inclusions, are generally heated. This process enhances colour and clarity by dissolving trace elements in the stone. Star sapphires occur due to the presence of rutile needle inclusions crystallized in the stone at 60ÂşC or 120ÂşC.
The star sapphire is cut in cabochon. Under the rays of the sun, a sixrayed star or more rarely twelve-rayed star will appear to float across the surface. Sapphires are formed in metamorphic rocks (rocks transformed by a sudden rise in temperature - 650ºC to 720ºC - and pressure) or magmatic (rocks from the center of the earth propelled to the surface following volcanic eruptions) at a depth of 25 to 50 km. It is found in silica-poor rocks: nepheline, marble, basalt ...
MINERALOGICAL CHARACTERISTICS Crystal system: Rhombohedral (trigonal) Chemical Composition: Aluminum Oxide (Al2O3) Colour: Blue, yellow, pink, green and colourless Hardness: 9 on the Mohs scale Specific weight: 3.80 to 4.00 Refractive index: 1.76 - 1.77 Dispersion: 0.018 Pleochroism: Purple blue, blue-green
MINING Sapphires are mined from alluvial deposits or from primary underground workings. In Sri Lanka we mostly ďŹ nd shallow pit mines. Sapphires from different geographic locations may have different appearances or chemical-impurity concentrations and tend to contain different types of microscopic inclusions. Cymophanes or cat's eye, as well as natural zircons, are formed and found in the same mines in the Ratnapura province. Sri Lanka has some of the best mining and land conservation practices in the world, protecting both the environment and the people of today and future.generations.
RATNAPURA, SRI LANKA
CITY OF GEMS
Although blue is the bestknown sapphire colour, they occur in other colours including grey and black and they can be colourless. A rare pinkish orange variety of sapphire found in Sri Lanka is called padparadscha.
COLOUR Gemstone colour can be described in terms of hue, saturation and tone. Hue is commonly understood as the "colour" of the gemstone. Saturation refers to the vividness or brightness of the hue and tone is the lightness to darkness of the hue. A stone sometimes has several clearly differentiated colours or has reections such as girasol sapphire.
The colour of sapphires can be perceived differently depending on the light sources. Some indigo blue sapphires look almost black in artiďŹ cial light. Others become purple when exposed to sunlight. Sapphires also have pleochroic properties (the colour varies according to the angle of observation).
TREATMENTS Heat treatments between 1300ยบC and 1800ยบC and irradiations aim at modifying or correcting the colour and transparency of a sapphire. It is important to differentiate the traditional thermal treatment that has existed since Antiquity from that practiced in high temperature furnaces. The traditional treatment is characterized by its artisanal methods and it consists essentially of scattering rutile needles present in the stone by heating it.
The quality of the sapphire subjected to a low temperature will only be slightly improved. In contrast, high temperature heat treatment consists of transforming naturally colourless sapphires (Milky Stones) into blue sapphires. Note that in this case additives can be added to coat the stone during the heating cycle to colour the surface (diffusion). Diffusion treatment is when the stone is coloured on the surface and then re-polished. This treatment can be detected by observing the sapphire in immersion.
CUT Traditionally, sapphires are cut with diamond dust. The polishing is carried out using emery - a powdered abrasive. Faceted sizes enhance the sparkle of sapphires. Stones with remarkable inclusions, such as the cat's eye sapphire (forming a vertical line like the pupil of a cat) or the much sought-after starshaped sapphire (a six-pointed star) will reveal their beauty in an old classic size called "en cabochon ".
The value of natural sapphires varies depending on their colour, clarity, size, cut and overall quality. The most popular cuts for a sapphire are oval, round and cushion. Sapphires are also available in all other popular shapes like marquise, heart, pear and princess.
HEALING PROPERTIES
CLASSICAL SYMBOLISM The word sapphire comes from the Latin sapphirus derived from the Greek sappheiros ("precious stone"). Hebrew Sapphire and Syriac Saphilah are certainly the oldest origins of the word. We find in archaic languages the term shapar used to designate first "the things of fire", then "the shiny aspect" and then, by extension, beautiful things". In folklore, history, art and consumer awareness, sapphire has always been associated with the colour blue.
In ancient Greece and Rome, kings and queens were convinced that blue sapphires had healing virtues and protected their owners from envy and harm. During the Middle Ages, the clergy wore blue sapphires to symbolize Heaven, referring to it as the Pierre des Papes , whereas ordinary folks thought the gem attracted heavenly blessings. In other times and places, people instilled sapphires with the power to guard chastity, make peace between enemies, influence spirits and reveal the secrets of oracles.
ASTROLOGY Sapphire is the birthstone of September. The blue sapphire is especially related to the sign of Libra, by its colour of night which evokes the equinox of Autumn. Some associate it with Taurus. In Chinese astrology, it is associated with the Tiger and sometimes bears the name of Third Eye, for its capacity to increase intuition.
HEALING PROPERTIES Modern litho therapy attributes to sapphire an image of truth, wisdom and harmony. It is recommended to calm angry and impatient temperaments, bring serenity, calmness and clairvoyance into the emotions. It intervenes on all the chakras. It symbolizes honesty, truth and ďŹ delity. Wearing or possessing a sapphire is believed to have multiple beneďŹ ts at both spiritual and physical levels.
• Promotes spiritual elevation, inspiration and meditation • Calms mental activity • Soothes anger and depressive states • Encourages dynamism • Stimulates concentration, creativity • Restores joie de vivre, enthusiasm • Develops self-confidence and perseverance • Regulates hyperactivity • Increases passions • Strengthens the will, the courage
• Promotes sleep and positive dreams • Relieves migraines and headaches • Soothes rheumatic pains, sciatica • Regenerates skin, nails and hair • Treats fever and inflammation • Strengthens the venous system • Regulates blood effusions • Relieves sinusitis, bronchitis • Improves vision disorders, especially conjunctivitis • Stimulates vitality
ADDITIONAL PROPERTIES
A LOVE AFFAIR BETWEEN ART & BUSINESS
A heaven for birdwatchers and nature lovers alike, Sri Lanka has been a constant destination for the past 5 years. Its people, biodiversity and geology are undoubtedly what makes it a rich and unique place.
Magpies fancy other magpies... The Blue Magpie is a particularly elusive bird, endemic to Sri Lanka with the most striking blue colours. Similar in size to the European Magpie, the Blue Magpie inhabits a specific rainforest region - the Sinharaja Rainforest - where being colourful, not size, is likely to be the best chance to be spotted by a mate. The Sinharaja Rainforest is bordered by the district of Ratnapura City of Gems, world renowned for its sapphires.
Sri Lanka is known to have some of the best practices in the gem industry and trade. Sri Lankan sapphires are some of the world s most famous and sought-after by high-proďŹ le gem buyers and collectors, also considered to be conflict free. losely regulated and restricted to small-scale operations where heavy equipment is forbidden. This ensures that the land is not overexploited and the environmental impact is minimal.
NATHALIE LAROCHE Artisan Jeweller
Jewellery represents to me a way of expression, a craft work. It is an opportunity to provide pleasure and to showcase Nature's gifts such as precious metals, gems and pearls. It is a multifaceted profession and a beautiful human adventure.
I have always felt drawn to that which is artistic and original, not wishing to reproduce what already exists but to create the extraordinary. I love hand work, starting from nothing to reach an end result, so it is only natural that I chose jewellery. Subtle blends, unique and original creations, symbolism... my ever-growing fascination for the final creations guides my gaze both to the collective and to the individual, through researching and creating jewellery that gives pleasure.
When you buy jewellery, you are not always aware of how the minerals were obtained. In general, hygiene and safety conditions in mines are appalling, weakening and directly affecting the workers. In addition, industrial mining is dumping a lot of toxic waste and destroying the environment. Confronted by this, mines around the world have started to commit to certify that their minerals are mined using fair practices, where methods are more respectful of the environment and child labour is condemned. For these reasons, I essentially only work with fair-trade mines or I rework old jewellery into new unique creations.
THE COLLECTION
PINK SAPPHIRES
Pink sapphires represent just one of the colours of this popular gemstone found in limited regions in the world. Colours range from pale, baby pink to hot pink shades that might appear violet. Pink sapphires symbolize loyalty, trust and sincerity, making them popular stones for engagement rings.
Ring 18k Yellow, Rose and White Gold, 3,55 ct. Natural Hot Pink Sapphire, 0,6 ct. D VVS Diamond
BLUE SAPPHIRES
Traditionally, blue sapphires symbolize nobility, truth, sincerity and faithfulness. It has been associated with royalty and romance and have decorated the robes of royalty and clergy members for centuries. Its extraordinary colour is the standard against which other blue gems - from topaz to tanzanite - are measured.
Ring 18K Yellow, Rose and White Gold, 1,63ct. Natural Blue Sapphire, 0,33 ct. D VVS Diamond
PURPLE/VIOLET SAPPHIRES
Purple embodies the balance of red s stimulation and blue s calm. With a sense of mystic and royal qualities, purple is a colour often well liked by very creative or eccentric types and is the favourite colour of many children. Purple helps individuals get in touch with their feelings. It also symbolizes calmness. It has been said that you should wear purple when you want to encourage fantasy, mystery and imagination.
Ring 18K Yellow Gold, 3,25 ct. Natural Violet Sapphire
GREEN ZIRCONS
In the middle ages, zircon was said to aid sleep, bring prosperity and promote honour and wisdom in its owner. It is the oldest mineral on Earth, with samples found in Australia that are over 4.4 billion years old. Green zircon is rarely seen in the gem trade and is highly sought after. It owes its colour to minute natural traces of uranium and thorium. Is typically very expensive. Green represents rebirth, spring and balance and it s believed to promote healthy relationships.
Earrings 18K Yellow Gold, 5,22 ct. Natural Green Zircons
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