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Myanmar Airways International - AIR KBZ In-flight Magazine

Vol.8, No.1, NOV 2016 - APR 2017

UNDISCOVERED

LOIKAW

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CONTENTS

Vol.8, No.1, NOV 2016 - APR 2017

Mingalabar is produced and published by the marketing and public relations department of MAI Company Limited.

Myanmar Airways International Co., Ltd. No.147, Pyay Road, 8Â½ Miles, Mayangone Township, Yangon, Myanmar. Tel:(95-1) 9670022 (Ext-451) Fax: (95-1) 665461 E-mail: marketing@maiair.com www.facebook.com/8Mofficial http://www.maiair.com

MYANMAR AIRWAYS INTERNATIONAL

CORPORATE PROFILE

yanmar Airways International (MAI) was founded in 1993 as a joint venture company between Myanma Airways and a Singapore-based company. The running of the international airline did not radically change until 2010 when the KBZ group attained an 80% share of MAI, bringing in an era of sector and route changes. Effective from January 2014, MAI is the 100% complete member of KBZ Group, a Myanmar national-owned private company. With the KBZ group acquiring 100% of MAI, the future of the airline is definitely optimistic and encouraging, with a new management team, new Airbus A320 aircraft with highly trained and competent cockpit crew, better-trained flight attendants, and Myanmar Civil Aviation Requirements & International Civil Aviation Organization operating standards. In July 2012, MAI signed an agreement with Air France Industries for maintenance & engineering services, technical assistance on-site training and component support services. In September 2012, MAI signed an agreement with Sepang Aircraft Engineering an EADS Company for Airbus A320 Aircraft Maintenance Global support services for heavy maintenance. In April 2013, MAI signed a code-share and partnership memorandum of understanding with Korean Air and Asiana Airlines; in January 2014 signed a code-share agreement with Malaysia Airlines; and in November 2014 signed a code-share agreement with Garuda Indonesia. MAI flies between Yangon and Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Gaya, Guangzhou, Kolkata and MandalayBangkok-Mandalay. MAI started charter flights to Korea and Japan in March 2013. MAI is a member of the IATA Clearing House (ICH) and a partner of the IATA, MITA system. MAI is the only recipient in Myanmar of the IATA Operational Safety Audit Program (IOSA) Operator. MAI has been awarded a 2014 ASEAN Business Award as the National Winner (Myanmar) for Most Admired ASEAN Enterprise, ASEAN Centricity by ASEAN Business Advisory Council (ASEAN-BAC). The aircraft are operated by an internationally experienced team of skilled aviation personnel. The Safety and Comfort of passengers has always been our first priority. To this date MAI has been able to remain100% safe and accident free in aviation history and record book.

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OUR LOGO Pyinsa Rupa, which comprises the Pali words pyinsa, meaning “five”, and rupa, meaning “physical beauty”, is the name given to a mythical animal that Myanmar artists and artisans have used over the centuries as a decorative motif in their works. Pyinsa Rupa combines the most striking features of five different animals – the trunk of the elephant, the head of the lion, the antlers and legs of the deer, the wings of the mythical hintha bird, and the body and tail of the ngagyin fish (gudgeon).Thus Pyinsa Rupa has the features of land creatures, a winged creature and a water creature.

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NEWS

KBZ becomes first Myanmar bank to open Bangkok office

Kanbawza Bank (KBZ Bank) Limited, part of the KBZ Group of Companies, has opened a representative office in Bangkok. The move makes it the first Myanmar bank to establish an international presence. Earlier this year KBZ officially received a licence from the Bank of Thailand to open the office, after undergoing stringent due diligence procedures and demonstrating significant transparency as part of the licence application. This included an appraisal of the bankâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s position in the market, background information of its shareholders, the awards the bank has received, and its accounts and investments to ensure its operations adhered to the guidelines set by the Bank of Thailand. The bank is poised to continue expansion in ASEAN, where it has recently also earned its licence to open a representative office in Singapore.

KBZ representative office has been opened in Singapore Kanbawza Bank (KBZ Bank), part of the KBZ Group of companies, has opened a representative office in Singapore. It is the first Myanmar bank to establish an office in Singapore. The representative office, situated at No. 40-01, One Raffles Place Office Tower One, Singapore 048616, will be a gateway for Singapore and international business looking for advice or expertise on succeeding in Myanmar. It will serve as a source of information for regulatory requirements in both markets, as well as offering market research and feasibility studies on investment and business opportunity, and on private sector liaison services.

KBZ representative office has been opened in Thailand Kanbawza Bank (KBZ Bank) has opened a representative office at Sathorn Square Office Tower Bangkok, the first Myanmar bank to establish an international presence. Earlier this year, KBZ Bank officially received a license from the Bank of Thailand to open the office in the capital. The Bangkok branch will start offering financial and advisory services to Myanmar citizens and to businesses in Thailand.

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IKBZ Insurance marks third anniversary

KBZ Bank Launches UnionPay Credit Cards

At IKBZ’s third anniversary celebration, the company’s vice chair U Nyo Myint unveiled a plan to offer further insurance deals to consumers, as well as a plan to operate with online insurance systems in the near future for the convenience of the customers. IKBZ is currently providing a variety of insurance packages, including life insurance, travel insurance, fire insurance, health insurance, and motor insurance. The company entered the insurance market with six insurance products, and currently operates from 14 branches across the country with plans to open more offices in the near future.

CUSTOMERS WILL BE ABLE TO BUY NOW AND PAY LATER WHILE EARNING VALUABLE BENEFITS. Kanbawza Bank (KBZ Bank) Limited, part of the KBZ Group of companies, has begun issuing credit cards to eligible customers. In a move that has been widely anticipated, the cards from the UnionPay payment network will come in two forms: a Classic Card and a Platinum Card. They allow people to purchase goods and services, as well as withdraw cash, up to a credit limit that is determined by their individual financial status. KBZ Union Pay cardholders can now transact at over 35 million merchants covering 160 countries and regions in Union Pay’s global payment network. In addition, with access to over 850 airport lounges in more than 400 airports globally, and special offers at many hotels, fine dining restaurants, shopping and entertainment venues, the KBZ Platinum Card is truly the best in class to cater to the travel and lifestyle needs of the frequent Myanmar traveler. KBZ UnionPay credit cards, which are enabled with a smart chip and PIN for added security, can be used at all Myanmar ATMs and at all UnionPay participating outlets, including online. One of the benefits of using the KBZ UnionPay credit card is that since the base currency is the Myanmar Kyat, Myanmar travelers can withdraw cash and pay at stores abroad, at equal daily exchange rates of the foreign country currency. With the Platinum Card, KBZ Bank offers added value such as a 20% discount in any F&B outlet at the Sule Shangri-La in Yangon, and benefits from a tie-in with UnionPay’s Asia Prestige Program, enabling access to VIP airport lounges around the world, access to lounges at 20 railway stations in China and travel insurance. KBZ will be on hand to offer advice through its branches and call centers, and has begun an online campaign on new credit cards. When the entire balance is paid back on time, the card holder will not incur any interest or late payment fees. However, the unpaid balance is charged at a 13% per annum interest rate, and there are penalties for repeated missed deadlines. Customers can settle their bills from their bank account at KBZ Bank branches nationwide.

Brighter Future Myanmar

The KBZ Brighter Future Myanmar Foundation (BFM) is the social initiative arm of KBZ Bank and KBZ Group of Companies. As the main donor of the KBZ Brighter Future Myanmar Foundation, KBZ bank had allocated over US$103 million in charitable giving, sponsorships, and community development projects, including $2.4 million to implement clean water supply systems in towns and villages in southern Shan State. Despite problematic geographical conditions, water supply systems are now successfully operating in 16 neighborhoods in Kalaw, Bawsine, Heho, Pindaya, Taunggyi, Hopone, and Nansan. The project has helped supply drinking water to 30 villages, 19 schools, 14 monasteries, and one hospital. This has impacted the lives of 6,771 families totaling about 40,000 people. MAI Myanmar Airways International

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MYANMAR TRAVEL WORLD Myanmar sees good prospects for tourism in 2016 Myanmar is seeing good prospects in the tourism industry for 2016, with an increasing number of visitors expected during the year. The majority of foreign tourists have been coming from China, Thailand, France, Germany, and the United States. Myanmar attracted US$2.64 billion in foreign investment in 47 hotel and tourism projects in 2015. The number of tourism-related companies has increased to 1,922, of which 1,822 are owned by local citizens. A total of 340 hotels operated across the nation in 2015, and the government has established hotel zones in areas such as Nay Pyi Taw, Yangon, Mandalay, and Bago. Meanwhile, eight domestic airlines and five international airlines offer services in Myanmar. Under the current system, there are 12 types of entry visa and three types of re-entry visa available for foreign travelers to facilitate their visit to Myanmar. Visas-on-arrival are also available at three Myanmar international airports – Yangon, Mandalay, and Nay Pyi Taw – for business, workshop, crew, and transit purposes.

New hotel openings in Myanmar Melià Hotels International The Meliá Yangon is the first hotel operated by the brand in the country, and is part of their overall strategy for expansion in the Asia-Pacific region. Overlooking Inya Lake, the hotel provides 430 modern rooms furnished with state-of-the-art amenities. Exclusive privileges are available on The Level, the brand’s signature executive floor. The property’s three high-end restaurants include The Market, offering all-day dining in an open market setting; The Lantern, serving reinterpreted classics; and Olea, specialising in European cuisine. At the end of the year, the hotel will introduce a Hollywood golden-age atmosphere in the Garbo Bar, named after the actress Greta Garbo. An onsite convention area provides ballrooms and function rooms equipped with the latest technology for events. The hotel’s facilities also include an outdoor swimming pool, a fitness centre, and a soon-to-open YHI spa. Sanctum Inle Resort The upscale 94-room Sanctum Inle Resort has opened in one of Myanmar’s most compelling tourist destinations on the shores of Inle Lake. Among the features unveiled as part of the Brigitte Dumont de Chassart-designed resort’s grand opening are an Olympic-sized swimming pool overlooking the lake; the 150-square-meter presidential Sanctuary Suite; and The Refectory, a restaurant serving Shan and international cuisine. Sanctum Inle Resort inspires contemplation through its off-the-beaten-path location and architectural flourishes that invoke monastic traditions, such as Spanishstyle arches and minimalist but modern room designs.

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Help Bagan A powerful earthquake in August 2016 damaged 397 ancient pagodas and temples in Bagan, including iconic favourites Sulamani, Ananda, Htilominlo, Myazedi, Shwesandaw, Lawkananda, and Dhamma Yazaka, as well as the murals at Ananda Oakkyaung. Restoring these world-famous structures could take many years, and UNESCO says the painstaking task of cleaning up the rubble-strewn temples and pagodas is well underway. Teams of volunteers – including travel and tour groups, Buddhist monks, soldiers, and firefighters – are helping with the process of documenting, cleaning, and collecting broken artifacts. For now, visitors are prohibited from entering 33 damaged pagodas, and are not allowed to climb to the upper levels of those pagodas for sunrise and sunset viewing.

Opening in Yangon FUSE nightclub This new nightlife experience, crowded with Yangonites, jams with electronic music played by international DJs until the early morning hours. Located on the 4th floor of HAGL Myanmar Centre (Myanmar Plaza), Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, Bahan Township, Yangon. Tel: +95 09-44000-7788 Email: fuse.yangon@gmail.com Open Hours: 9pm to 2am

Pezzo Pizza Singapore’s famous Pezzo Pizza is now available in Yangon. Sold by the pie or by the slice. Open 10am to 9pm. Hledan Centre, Pyay Road, Kamayut Township, Yangon. Tel: +95 09 777 263646

Miyako Clinic Spa Japanese-owned Miyako is a professional spa now open in downtown Yangon (446/444 Merchant Road, Botahtaung Township). It is quickly gaining a reputation as among the best in town for value-for-money and great service. Most staff speak good English. Tel: +95 09-25978-1636 Open Hours: Monday-Friday, 11am to 10pm (last booking 9pm); SaturdaySunday, 10am to 10pm (last booking 9pm)

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TRAVEL ACCESSORIES

Trendy products

bookshelf My Conscience: An Exile’s Memoir of Burma (2016) by U Kyaw Win

U Kyaw Win fled Myanmar in 1961, on the eve of the coup that put the military into power for 50 years. He became a citizen of the United States, where he worked to bring international attention to the plight of his home country. In this memoir, he recounts his early years in Myanmar, his exile in the US and his long-overdue return to Yangon 40 years after his departure, as well as relating accounts he collected of the 1988 pro-democracy uprising.

Relics of Rangoon: The Colonial History of the Golden City (2016) by Philip Heijmans

Through photographs, collages and vividly descriptive text, Relics of Rangoon offers readers an inside look at more than 150 of Yangon’s most important heritage buildings. In the midst of Myanmar’s opening up to the outside world following five decades of isolation, this book takes an important look at the architectural history of the country’s biggest city, and considers the impact of new developments on an urban landscape in which much of the history is threatened by demolition.

Twilight over Burma: My Life as a Shan Princess (1994) by Inge Sargent

In this memoir, Austrian Inge Sargent recounts her marriage to Shan prince Sao Kya Seng, and their life together in Hsipaw, Shan State. Their idyll ended following the military coup of 1962, after which Sao Kya Seng was detained by the army and died under mysterious circumstances. Interest in this story was revived earlier this year when a 2015 movie based on the book was banned from a film festival in Yangon, a reminder that censorship is still alive in Myanmar.

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Yangoods is a lifestyle brand that specialises in blending historical art with 21st-century sensibilities to revitalise Myanmarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heritage. As the tourism industry continues to flourish and the expat community thrives, demand is growing for high-quality souvenirs, home dĂŠcor, and accessories. Yangoods offers an ever-expanding line of bags, stationery, and other items for those in search of unique gifts or souvenirs. Tel: +95 09-973780-501 Email: sales@ yangoods.com

Exciting Apps

Pokemon Go in Myanmar The Pokemon Go app has not been officially launched in Myanmar, but excited players report that the game has started working here in Yangon, luring crowds of gamers into the search for virtual creatures. Both Android and Apple OS versions can be downloaded. For more information, contact the Pokemon Go Myanmar Fan Club at www.facebook.com/ PokemonGOMyanmarFanClub.

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cover story

d e r e v o c s i d Un LOIKAW

Until just a few years ago, all of Kayah State in eastern Myanmar was closed to foreign tourists due to a decades-long civil war between ethnic armed groups and the Myanmar army. But following the nationwide election in 2010, and with ceasefire agreements now in place, the state’s capital Loikaw – as well as much of the surrounding area – has been opened to visitors. Kayah – the smallest of Myanmar’s 14 states and regions – remains one of the country’s least-visited areas. Getting there from Yangon by bus takes about 16 hours, but the flight time is less than one hour. Those few who have taken the trip in the past several years have found in Kayah one of the country’s most picturesque regions, with gently rolling farmland, hilltop pagodas, volcanic lakes, and dark, mysterious caves. Kayah State is also home to a number of distinct ethnic groups, including the Padaung. The women of this ethnicity traditionally placed brass coils around their necks from a young age, but the practice is becoming less common, particularly among younger women living in urban areas. While Loikaw itself has a large population of Buddhists, the majority of people throughout the state are Christian. However, animistic beliefs remain strong even among those who adhere to other religions, and “spirit poles” are a common site in many villages.

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THE MAIN RELIGIOUS LANDMARK IN LOIKAW IS TAUNG KWE PAGODA, A COLLECTION OF WHITE AND GOLD STUPAS PERCHED ON A LIMESTONE CRAG FROM WHICH VISITORS CAN ENJOY EXCELLENT VIEWS OF THE TOWN AND THE SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE.

Hintha Gon

LOIKAW TIMELINE

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AD 739

1892

1922

According to Kayan tradition, this is the year the Kayan settled in the Demoso area of Karenni State (Kayah State).

First settlement begins in Loikaw with only four huts.

Loikaw is made headquarters of the political officer in charge of the Karenni States, part of the Princely States of British Burma during British rule in Burma.

1950

The Lawpita hydropower project is initiated with a bilateral war reparation agreement between Japan and Burma.

sights

The main religious landmark in Loikaw is Taung Kwe Pagoda, a collection of white and gold stupas perched on a limestone crag from which visitors can enjoy excellent views of the town and the surrounding countryside. After sundown the pagoda twinkles with lights, and the darker platforms are great for stargazing on moonless nights. East of town are several more pagodas perched on rocky outcrops, including Tat Tapin Mont, or One Tree Mountain. Loikaw is also home to Thiri Mingalarpon Kyaung, a monastery founded in 1912 and serving as a palace for Kayah princes – known as sao pha, or sky lords, until 1959. Following the death of the last sao pha in 1987, the decaying structure was donated to a local Buddhist organization for repair and upkeep. Christ the King Church – Kayah State’s oldest church – was built by Roman Catholic missionaries in 1939, and is equipped with a bell brought over from Italy. Mass is still held there in Myanmar, English, Kayan and Latin languages, but in a newer, bigger building adjacent to the original church. Elsewhere in town, the Kayah Cultural Museum features displays of ethnic costumes and other items. There is plenty to see outside of Loikaw as well. About one hour south of town along Highway 5 is a large white and gold pagoda marking the turnoff to Seven Stages Lake. Another 11 kilometers through scenic countryside and villages brings travelers to a series of small lakes, interconnected by narrow channels, whose tranquil waters reflect the surrounding hills. Kyet Cave, located 15 kilometers east of Loikaw on the road to Shadaw, is also worthy of a visit. At 2200 meters in length, it is the thirdlongest cave in Myanmar. It is also famous for the old coffins at the entrance area, and is a popular pilgrimage site for Buddhists. Day and overnight treks can also be arranged, some without permits but others requiring advance registration with authorities in Yangon. Near Loikaw are Dor Sor Bee and Hta Nee La Leh, farming villages with traditional animist shrines and totem poles. Farther afield is Pan Pet, actually a collection of five villages in the deforested hills 90 minutes south of Loikaw. The area is home to several women who still wear the traditional neck rings, and local handicrafts such as bracelets and scarves can also be purchased here.

1963

1974

1992

2012

Pekone Reservoir, connecting Inle Lake and Sagar Lake, is created to produce hydroelectricity for Yangon and Mandalay.

Lawpita Hydropower Plant No. 2 becomes the country’s first power station to become operational. It has a capacity of 168MW with six generators.

Construction of Lawpita Hydropower Plant No.1, which began in 1986, is completed with an installed capacity of 28MW.

The government starts ceasefire talks with the Karenni National Progressive Party (KNPP) in Chiang Mai, Thailand. The agreement signed in 2013 opens Kayah State to NGOs, donors, business interest, and tourists. MAI Myanmar Airways International

things to do in loikaw

The centerpiece of Loikaw is the Taung Kwe Pagoda, which comprises a number of white and gold monuments sitting on top of limestone outcrops which jut dramatically from the surrounding plains. They are interesting and fun to wander around and provide a different experience to other pagodas in Myanmar â&#x20AC;&#x201C; as well as offering panoramic views of the distant plains, hills and mountains. There are other similar, but smaller, outcrops dotted around Loikaw; most have pagodas on them and make for a unique landscape. There is a also a large reclining Buddha in town, which is worth a visit if you havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seen too many reclining Buddhas already. There is not a great deal else to do in Loikaw itself; most of the interest lies in the surrounding countryside. The dusty Kayah State Cultural Museum gives some detail on the tribes of Kayah State, as well as their varying traditional dresses and weaponry; perhaps its most interesting feature is the central totem

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pole that is also a major feature of many of Kayah villages, an animist tradition pre-dating Buddhism or Christianity. A pleasant spot to hang out for a drink or dinner in Loikaw is the riverside beer station (no English language signage), situated next to a pool hall and offering a good range of local dishes. There are a number of ATMs dotted around town, include a KBZ bank near the beer station.

Tribal villages and Kyet Cave There are various options to visit tribal villages in the area around Loikaw, including Hta Nee La Leh, a simple farming village with traditional Kayah totem poles and a Kaetoebu village hall, where the village shaman makes predictions. There are also some picturesque lakes to the south of the village.

sleeping... Loikaw has a surprisingly diverse array of hotels and guesthouses for both local and foreign guests, at prices lower than more popular tourist sites around Myanmar.

Kayah Resort Address: U Khun Li Street, Naung Yah (A) Quarter Budget: Mid-range Kayah Resort offers convenient amenities such as flat-screen TVs and an onsite restaurant. There is free shuttle service, and car hire is also available. Hotel Loikaw Address: 9 Street, Naung Yar (A) Quarter, near Htee Ngar Yar Lake Budget: Mid-range Hotel Loikaw is a bit out of the centre of Loikaw, but boasts lakeside bungalow accommodation with plenty of space.

Higher into the hills is the Kayan village of Pan Pet, which offers opportunities for scenic hikes and chances to meet the local villagers - including the long-neck women. If you visit, make sure that to show them respect; the women are happy for their photo to be taken, but too often visitors get in their faces and crowd them, without even an introduction. If you make friends first, it will be appreciated, and there are village stalls where local handicrafts can be purchased, including bracelets and colourful scarves. Note that Hta Nee La Leh and Pan Pet can only be visited with a permit, as part of an organised tour; you can see Kayah tour options here, including the option to create your own itinerary. Like many parts of Myanmar, Kayah has suffered greatly over the last fifty years from civil war between ethnic militias and the Burmese army, and after recent ceasefire agreements is

IF YOU VISIT, MAKE SURE THAT TO SHOW THEM RESPECT; THE WOMEN ARE HAPPY FOR THEIR PHOTO TO BE TAKEN

Min Ma Haw Guesthouse Address: Ma 120(C), Mingalar Ward The budget rooms are simple and bare, but some of the larger ones have en suite bathrooms, TVs and fridges. The air-con rooms are bigger and somewhat nicer. Nan Ayar Inn Address: Nat Thying Naung Road This green house near the river contains simple but homey rooms. Myat Nan Taw Hotel Address: 54 Gannayawady Street, Main Lone Quater. Myat Nan Taw Hotel features an onsite restaurant, free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, car-hire services, and more. Moon Joy Inn Address: 4 Thiri Rd Loikaw The budget rooms share toilets while the more expensive have en suite bathrooms, air-conditioning and fridges.

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s e r u g i f fact &

Kayah State Basic Information

Area: 11,731.09 square kilometers Total population: 277,428 Rural population: 189,587 Urban population: 87,841 Population aged 0-14 years: 87,892 Languages: Kayah (several dialects), Myanmar Capital: Loikaw Main economic activities: Agriculture, mining, forestry, energy Elevation: 2,900 feet (884 meters) Loikaw, the capital of Kayah State, is located in the Karen Hills near the state’s northern tip, just above an embayment on the Belu River. The inhabitants are mostly Kayah (Karenni). Myanmar’s largest hydropower plant, built by the Japanese as reparation for World War II, is located about 20 kilometers east of Loikaw at Lawpita Falls. Lawpita was the first large-scale hydropower project in Myanmar and today represents 24 percent of the country’s total hydropower capacity. Loikaw is linked by roads and the newly constructed Aungban-Pinlong-Loikaw rail line, and is also linked to Yangon by air.

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only now beginning to open up to foreigners. A legacy of this conflict are the large number of landmines in the surrounding area, which sensibly restrict access to some places; travelling can involve many checkpoints, and you may need photocopies of your passport photo and visa pages. Kyet Cave (sometimes spelt Kyut and also known as Yarsu Ku), located 15km east of Loikaw on the road to Shadaw, makes for an interesting trip. At the entrance to this impressive cave there is a wooden hut inhabited by an old monk who is always keen to show visitors around and offer coffee and biscuits.

TheTbribes of Loikaw

I awoke to a thick blanket of clouds converging in the sky out my window – it was rainy season during my visit, but if anything, the rain and dramatically overcast skies only added to the area’s natural beauty. We stopped along the way to pick up cooking oil, laundry detergent, and beer to give as gifts when visiting the village. It is advisable to give gifts over money, as when money is given, sometimes the locals begin charging money to have their photo taken and the like. We continued along the road to Panpet village, an hour and a half’s drive away. At the village’s outer rim were spectacular rice fields, flooded with rainwater. I stopped to capture the stunning natural scene with my camera. We also stopped here to pick up the chief of Panpet village, an acquaintance of my guide. I chatted to the chief as we entered the village. The tribe members of Panpet are often called Padaung, he told me, but

eating... Fare at Loikaw restaurants ranges from Burmese and Shan to Chinese, Thai, and Western, the latter mostly at restaurants attached to some of the bigger hotels. Fresh fish from the nearby Pilu River is particularly delicious. Shan Noodle Shop This family-owned corner restaurant serves up tasty bowls of Shan noodles among other inexpensive but delicious specialties. Shwe Let Yar Shwe Let Yar is one of the best places in Loikaw to dine on local curries.

they aren’t fond of this name and call themselves Kayan. The village chief assembled a group of seven Kayan women to welcome us, and they invited us into one of their homes. My guide had brought some photos of these women taken by a friend of his on a previous visit, and he handed them out to the women, who were delighted to see themselves in print. I was offered tea as we sat around a fire and conversed with the women. They proceeded to sing some Kayan songs for me, acoustic guitar and all. Though simple, it was an amazing experience and gave me some fantastic insight into the basic daily lives of the Kayan people. We stepped back out into the spectacular outdoors after some time, and the women led me out to the rice fields where I snapped some more photos and enjoyed the tranquility and beauty of the setting. I later returned here, just before my flight, and had the opportunity to observe a woman putting rings on her granddaughter. This task – once performed by a shaman – is a sort of training for the children’s’ necks, who remove the rings during the school season.

Also later in the trip, we ended up stopping at another Kayan village called Sunbon, which is closer to town and more touristy than other villages, but still worth a look. The locals here had a noticeably higher standard of living and everyone spoke Burmese, in strong contrast to the other villages we would later visit. There were seven longneck women living in Sunbon, and I learned a bit about their culture. I was interested to learn that 28 is the maximum number of rings their necks can hold, and there is a lock on the back they can release when they sleep so that their necks have a bit of breathing room. The rings do not, however, ever come off entirely.

The Kayah Tribe The following day, we loaded up once again on supplies for gifts, and drove 2.5 hours to visit two Kayah villages: Dawdama Gyi and Dawsaw Pyar. These villages opened to visitors just months before my trip, in February 2014. I was told that apart from some NGOs, no other foreigners had been there. I was to be the first. This became quickly apparent to me, as the children waved excitedly when we drove past them on the halfpaved, half-dirt road lined with teak trees. The area was gorgeous.

Mingala Hin Htoke Locals come here for hin toke, an Intha dish steamed banana leaf packets of rice with pork or chicken. Breakfast Stalls Vendors selling food in the morning can be found on Shwe Taung Road.

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Highlights

Thiri Mingalar Taung Kwe Pagoda is built on a hillock overlooking the vast expanse of the environs. From the top, visitors can observe the Buddhist pilgrims and enjoy the marvelous landscape of the surrounding region. The Kayah State Cultural Museum provides information about the various ethnic groups of Kayah State, including their varying traditional dress and tools. Hta Nee La Leh is a simple farming village with a traditional animist Kay Htoe Boe pole and a Kaetoebu village hall, where the village shaman makes predictions. The Kayan village of Pan Pet offers opportunities for scenic hikes and the chance to meet the local villagers, including Padaung women wearing traditional neck rings. Kyet Cave, located 15 kilometers from Loikaw, is a sprawling natural limestone cave containing broken wooden boxes which are believed to be coffins from many years ago.

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Upon arrival in Dawdama Gyi, I learned that the villagers were Buddhist, and had been since around 1993. But their tribal traditions have much deeper roots, with the village dating back over 300 years. I spotted a group of women working in a peanut farm, and one elderly Kayah woman caught my eye. She had distinctive ears and sported traditional Kayah clothing. Having never before encountered a foreigner, she was shy to say the least, so I asked my guide to translate for me as I spoke to her, and I managed to coax her into having a few photos taken. Next we met with the village chief, who told us that this was one of the few remaining villages in the area after fighting had driven many refugees to Thailand. I was shocked to learn that on some days, the people were not allowed to leave the village, as ordained by the army. There were no telephones or televisions here, and nearby some land mines remain hidden underground, once put there by the government. Within the village, however, the land mines had all been cleared. Only the older Kayah women wore traditional clothing. One of them I spoke to – through my guide, who luckily spoke the local dialect as the older Kayahs do not speak Burmese – didn’t know how old she was. She had, as did all the Kayah women, large holes in her ears, originally pierced a few days after birth. Way back when, these holes were filled with amber stone, later silver, and now just metal.

WE SPENT QUITE A BIT OF TIME HERE CHATTING WITH THE TALKATIVE WOMEN AND TAKING PHOTOS BEFORE HEADING BACK TO LOIKAW.

The next village, Dawsaw Pyar, was the highlight of the day as it felt even more authentic. I had the fortune to encounter a village elder who had been in the village when the Japanese had come during WWII, and the villagers fled to the nearby forest. She also commented that life had been incredibly difficult when they were fighting the Burmese army. I was the first foreigner she’d ever seen, and she kept touching my skin and thanking me for my visit. She had never even ridden in a car before. We spent quite a bit of time here chatting with the talkative women and taking photos before heading back to Loikaw.

The Kayaw Tribe On my final day in Loikaw, we journeyed southwest down a mostly dirt track, rougher than others we’d been on, to the Kayaw village of Htekho. Joining us on our trip was the village chief’s son – who I later learned was a general in the KNPP rebel group. Along the way, we stopped at Demawso market, where we saw Kayah and Kayan women, alongside a few Pa-O from the Inle area. We bought a glass of wine for the Kayan woman, who – to my great surprise – proceeded to chug it on the spot…at 8:30am! I would quickly learn that many Kayan elders drink strictly wine, and no water. My guide commented that the culture here is disappearing due to Chinese influence. Clothes and other products from China are sold at a cheaper price than most locals can compete with. The market itself was MAI Myanmar Airways International

only moderately interesting to me, having been to so many similar ones during my travels, but it was great place to pick up supplies and meet a few locals. As we continued along the road, I looked out upon the scenery as it glides by. It was – as always in Myanmar – stunning, with bamboo seemingly shooting out of the ground’s every pore.

s e r u g i fact f

When we finally arrived at Htekho village, I breathed a sigh of relief – the 80km journey from town had taken us five hours, and we’d nearly collided with oncoming vehicles several times while taking hairpin turns. We’d also climbed to a much higher altitude, and my guide pointed out that the dense jungle that lined the roads was an ideal hideout for the rebels in the past. I realized that this is the sort of place you’d have serious problems if you broke down or had any other sort of issues along the way. No one would know you were there and it would take a long time to get help. There is no cell phone reception here.

People

The Kayan are a sub-group of Red Karen (Karenni), a Tibeto-Burman ethnic minority. The Kayan consist of the following groups: Ka Khaung (Gekho), Kayan Lahta, Kayan Ka Ngan, Kayan Gebar, Kayan Kakhi and sometimes Bwe people (Kayaw).

Major Festival

The major religious festival in Kayah State is the three-day Kay Htein Bo Festival, which commemorates the belief that the creator god gave form to the world by planting a small post in the ground. During this festival, held in late March or early April, a Kay Htoe Boe pole is erected and participants dance around the pole.

Religious Practices

Although many of the Kayan still participate in traditional animist festivals, today the majority of Kayan and Kayaw people are Roman Catholics. Among 306 Kayan villages, 209 are Roman Catholic, 19 are Kan Khwan, 32 are Baptist and 46 are Buddhist.

Due to the length of the drive, we could only spend an hour and a half here, and soon headed back to Loikaw, stopping at a second Kayaw village called Yar A Pyare on the way. There was a Kayaw woman on the roadside who asked if we might give her a lift to a nearby village, to where she needed to deliver a chicken. We agreed, and her and her chicken joined us in the car for a short while. With only 300 people, Yar A Pyare is smaller than the first place we visited, and I noticed fewer villagers dressed in traditional clothing. It was mainly the elders who continued to uphold the tribe’s traditions.

Points of Interest in Loikaw The Kayhto Bo, or spirit poles, are found in most villages around Loikaw. These sacred poles are worshipped once a year, around April. I found this to be of particular interest, since most of the tribes have been converted to Christianity (some to Buddhism), though they still maintain speckles of their traditional animist customs.

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Another canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t-miss (you quite literally cannot miss it) in Loikaw is Taung Kwe Pagoda, which towers over the city. Built in the 11th century across two mountains, legend says that each mountain was inhabited by opposing groups, who frequently fought. The pagoda and the bridge that was built in between the two mountains represents peace between the two groups.

Loikaw-Panpet village-Seven Steps Lake Suggested itinerary: Breakfast at your hotel and then visit Panpet village where Kayan women reside. Have lunch on the way back to Seven Steps Lake. Drop in at Umbrella Lake, then drive back to your hotel and overnight. After breakfast the next day, visit the local market where minority people sell their goods. Then drive to Htee Sal Kar Waterfall before transferring to Loikaw airport and f;light back to Yangon.

Lawpita Waterfall at Loikaw Lawpita is the hydroelectric power station located in Kayah State. There three main stations, and this beautiful waterfall is located in Station 2. You may need to apply for a permit if you would like visit the waterfall. However, if you are visting the viewpoint where you can see all three stations, permission is not required.

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adveture tour

Kayah

LAND OF

RIVER CAVES

he Myanmar Cave Documentation Project visited Kayah state for the second time after 2015 and found an amazing variety of landscapes. All districts except Mese are now covered, helped by a fastimproving road network. The Red River Cave, discovered last year in Bawlakhe is extended to 4.1 km length and now the second-longest cave of Myanmar. The exploration of valleys in the east of Demeso reveals a very scenic tower karst with a new coffin cave. A large river cave is documented near Hpruso with a stream disappearing in cascades into a scenic 50m high entrance portal. The cave continues for 2.6km in a 20-30m-high passage until the exploration end. The resurgence is identified in 10km distance giving it the potential for one of the longest caves in Southeast Asia. Kayahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tower karst is confirmed as a new caving frontier with a large potential for karst related eco-tourism.

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A DAY TRIP ALONG THE ROAD FROM DEMESO TOWARDS SHAN STATE HAD AS A SURPRISE A FORMERLY NOT KNOWN CAVE WITH COFFINS.

We are

Experienced cavers organized in worldwide national caving societies with a large speleological expertise. We partner with authorities, NGO and research institutions.

Myanmar Cave Documentation Project 2016 ï¿¼ EuroSpeleo Project Photo By P. Bence and M. Scheurerer www.myanmarcaves.com

Our Mission

We bring value to Myanmar by a systematic documentation of caves and karst for conservation and ecotourism purposes. 28 cavers of 10 nations contributed in 12 expeditions.

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THE ENTRANCE HALL HAS IMPRESSIVE FORMATIONS AND IS EASY TO REACH BY A 15 MINUTE WALK AND SHORT DOWN-CLIMB. A TOUR WAS GIVEN TO SEVEN OFFICIALS FROM IMMIGRATION, POLICE AND STATE GOVERNMENT IN BAWLAKHE, WHO WONDERED WHY THE TEAM RETURNED SEVERAL DAYS TO THE SAME CAVE.

Summary and Results

ďżź

Kayah State has an amazing variety of landscapes due to its geographical situation at the southern edge of the Shan plateau. Here north-south trending karst ridges merge and 1000m-deep valleys are cut-in by the Salween river and its tributaries. This provides a great opportunity for karst-related eco-tourism in combination with a rich tribal culture. The project team visited this year the new districts of Hpasawng, Demeso and Hpruso. The improving road network makes access easier with one-day scouting trips into remote areas from a base in either Loikaw or Bawlakhe. The key findings are a very scenic karst landscape in easy reach of Loikaw, Red River Cave with 4.1km length now second-longest cave of Myanmar, and the newly discovered Phruno River Cave having a potential for one of the longest caves of Southeast Asia at more than 10km.

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Overview visited areas in the years 2015 and 2016 Driven roads are indicated by dashed lines (yellow: 2015, red: 2016, in addition), red stars mark caves of interest.

The tower karst landscape in eastern Demeso/ Hpruso is only a one-hour driving distance from Loikaw on a good road. The mountain chain is visible from the plane shortly before arriving in Loikaw from Yangon. A view point on top of an isolated hill with a monastery provides spectacular views. The peak has a network of paths and stupas. The Dragon Cave with sinter formations can be visited by climbing down a few stairs into a main chamber. A day trip along the road from Demeso towards Shan State had as a surprise a formerly not known cave with coffins, estimated to be 10002000 years old, similar to the one in Kyet Cave. Sadly only a few of the former dozens of coffins remained. The others were used for building material by nearby farmers. This cave in combination with Kyet Cave are the most eastern reported sites and expands the area such coffins are found from Thailand into Myanmar.

The new winding mountain road from Bawlakhe to Ywarthit crosses a sharp ridge and provides impressive views. Ywarthit has a pleasant monastery overlooking a dammed lake with a fish pond. A nearby resurgence cave can be visited while also having a look at the mighty Salween River.

Hpruso tower karst (M. Scheurerer) ďżź

The Red River Cave surveyed to 1.2 km length in 2015 continued into a maze of passages and has a final length of 4.1km making it the second longest of Myanmar. The downstream part possesses strong currents and it is dangerous to proceed without ropes. The entrance hall has impressive formations and is easy to reach by a 15-minute walk and short downclimb. A tour was given to seven officials from Immigration, police and state government in Bawlakhe, who wondered why the team returned several days to the same cave. The major finding is the large River Cave Phruno, heard from in 2015. The area is under control of local Karen tribes and permission from the KNPP liason office was obtained in order to pass the military checkpoint beyond Hpruso. A river disappears at the end of a valley in cascades into a 50m-high extremely scenic entrance portal. Access is easy with 10 minutes walking. The first 500m of the 20-30m-high

ďżź Overlooking the valley from Coffin Ridge Cave (P. Bence) passage is impressive, requiring a longer climb over a hall filled with large blocks before reaching the major stream. The resurgence is according to several villages the Kwaing Ngant Cave in about 10km distance. The passage was surveyed for 2.6km and continues. It requires overnight stays in the nearby village since it takes a five-hour return trip to the exploration end.

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This cave has the potential to rank as one of the longest caves in Southeast Asia. Conclusion and Outlook An overview of the area and access situation is achieved with several river caves now the longest in the country. This confirms Kayah as new frontier for large river caves so far only known from northern Thailand. Its combination of karst phenomena and tribal culture with a high biodiversity in a very compact area makes it interesting as eco-

Red River Cave upstream (P. Bence)

Bawlakhe sinter curtains

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tourism site. The challenges for further documentation are overnight stays in rural areas since commuting times from Loikaw or Bawlake are more than two hours. The cooperation with a local partner is a next step to increase visibility and stimulate interest on the caves and karst. Therefore an initial contact with the geology department of Loikaw University was established during the last day of the expedition. The pro-rector expressed his interest on a cooperation for karst research. The next step is to set up a project, define interfaces and establish funding. The first objective is a speleological project for geology students with a) lectures in karst science, b) teaching exploration and survey techniques and c) practical application during a field trip. Cave Documentation Results Demeso Kwaing

The project surveyed 12 caves with a length of 5.9km. The table below gives an overview:

Three of the five longest caves of Myanmar are located in Kayah (marked bold). This state possesses a much greater potential as indicated by the years of exploration. The 10 longest caves of Myanmar are to date:

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destionations

MAI currently takes travellers to seven great destinations â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Gaya, Guangzhou, Bangkok, Kolkata, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Mandalayâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Bangkok and we are planning to add more destinations in the future. Currently we operate with four Airbus A319s and A320, and with these modern aircraft we are able to deliver a comfortable and enjoyable flying experience no matter which class you travel. Timely departures and arrivals are the hallmark of our service. Many cities in Southeast Asia are home to extravagant royal palaces, both active and historical, and the countries to which MAI flies are no exception. Below is a brief rundown of some of these sites, which are worth visiting on your next holiday.

Have you been there? Royal Palaces

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Indonesia – Jakarta

Pagaruyung Palace

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agaruyung is a village located near the town of Batusangkar, Indonesia, but during the 14th century it served as the seat of the Minangkabau kings of Western Sumatra and the centre of the Pagarayung Kingdom. The original Pagaruyung Palace stood on the peak of Batu Patah Hill but was burned to the ground during a bloody riot in 1804.

Abandoned for more than 150 years, the palace was reconstructed south of the original site. The government of West Sumatera initiated the rebuilding project in 1976 and finished a few years later. However, in 2007 the replica was set on fire by a lightning strike, destroying nearly 85 percent of the artefacts displayed in the palace museum. Only 79 items were saved. After being rebuilt once again – this time on concrete stilts for added strength – Pagaruyung Palace has reopened to the public. The reconstruction preserves the original architectural design, including the traditional horn-shaped roof, as well as an interior rangkiang, or a storeroom to collect rice stock. Visitors can see the remaining collections from the previous museum, such as copper tools, paintings, kris daggers, spears, and pottery.

Location: Pagaruyung, Tanjung Emas, Tanah Datar Regency, West Sumatra Opening Hours: Open 24 hours

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Malaysia – Kuala Lumpur

Royal King’s Palace (Istana Negara)

uala Lumpur’s Royal King’s Palace (Istana Negara) serves as the official residence of the king of Malaysia, who relocated to the newly constructed building in 2011. While the public cannot enter, it’s possible to see the beautiful architecture of the palace from afar and watch the hourly changing of the guards.

Before 2011, the Royal King’s Palace was located in another mansion originally built in 1928 by a wealthy Chinese immigrant on a plot overlooking the Klang River. During World War II, the mansion was the home of the Japanese governor before becoming a British military office after the Japanese surrendered in 1945. In 1950, the sultan of Selangor moved into the residence and lived there until Malaysian independence in 1957. Today, the former Istana Negara houses the Royal Museum, where visitors can tour the grounds and get a sense of the opulence of Malaysian royal life. The official reception rooms are elaborately furnished with extravagant use of yellow – the royal colour – and plenty of gold leaf.

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Opening Hours: Open daily from 9am to 5pm. Admission Fee: Adult RM10 (foreigners), RM5 (MyKad holders).

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Thailand â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Bangkok

The Grand Palace

Opening Hours: Open daily from 8:30am to 3:30pm Location: Na Phra Lan Road, Old City (Rattanakosin) Price: Tickets cost 500 baht (includes entry to Vimanmek Palace and Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall)

he Grand Palace is a complex of buildings in the heart of Bangkok, Thailand. The palace has been the official residence of the kings of Siam since it was built in 1782, and it continues to leave visitors in awe with its beautiful architecture and intricate detail.

Construction of the complex began in 1782 when King Rama I decided to move the capital of Thailand from Thonburi to Rattanakosin Island on the east side of the Chao Phraya River. The complex is surrounded by 1,900-meter-long walls and houses royal residences, throne halls, and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Today the palace is used for royal rituals, state banquets, and other official functions. Among the oldest buildings is the Dusit Maha Prasat Throne Hall, built by King Rama I to host the lying-in-state ceremony for members of the royal family. One of the most recent buildings is the Borom Phiman Mansion, built in the early 20th century by King Rama V in a Western style for use as a residence for future kings.

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China â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Guangzhou

Nansha Tin Hau Palace (Nansha Mazu Temple)

Nansha Tin Hau Palace is a temple on the southeastern slope of Dajiao Mountain in Guangzhou that covers about 247 acres. It was originally built to worship Mazu, goddess of the sea, during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), then was renovated during the reign of Emperor Qianlong (1737-1795) in the Qing Dynasty (16441911), but was later ruined. The one seen now was rebuilt in 1994 and completed in 1996. A huge statue of the goddess stands in the middle of Tin Hau Square, symbolising her power to bless fishermen and bring favourable weather. At the centre of the palace is the Main Hall, where a shrine holds two more images of Mazu. Nearby is the Resting Hall, where a sitting sculpture of the goddess is displayed together with some simple instruments from her daily life. Also within the palace grounds are the seven Dajiao Mountain Forts, which in 1982 were listed as national priority cultural relic protection sites. Taken together, the palace attracts plenty of visitors with its charming scenic beauty and classical buildings.

Opening Hours: 8:30am to 6pm Admission Fee: CNY20

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India â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Gaya

Barabar Caves

ocated 25 kilometres from Gaya, the Barabar Caves were carved during the first phase of the development of Buddhism in the 2nd century BCE. These rock-cut caves are deep and finely cut, and have fine, glassy, and shining polish inside.

The Barabar Caves are divided into three types: the Nagarjuna Caves, the Hut Caves and the Pandavas Caves. According to historical evidence, the Nagarjuna Caves were built during the era of Ashokaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s grandson. Another cave called Lomas Rishi is magnificently carved, has a rectangular chamber, and polished in bright shining colours. These caves were meant for ascetic spiritual Buddhist monks who were truth seekers and wanted isolation and seclusion. Many Jataka stories (tales of the previous lives of the Buddha) are portrayed on the walls of these caves, which are relevant to understanding the development of Buddhism in different phases.

Address: Barabar, Barabar Hill Road, Sultanpur, Bihar Phone: (+91) 82710-29503

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Singapore

Istana Kampong Glam

Istana Kampong Glam is a former Malay palace located near Masjid Sultan in Kampong Glam, Singapore. The palace and compounds were refurbished into the Malay Heritage Centre in 2004. The original Istana Kampong Glam was built by Sultan Hussein Shah of Johor in 1819 on land of about 23 hectares. The sultan lived there until shortly before his death in Malacca in 1835.

The concrete structure that exists today was commissioned in 1835 by Sultan Husseinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eldest son, Sultan Ali Iskandar Shah of the Johor Riau-Lingga Empire. It was built on the site of the original between 1836 and 1843. After its completion, Tengku Alam, Sultan Aliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eldest son, lived there until his death in 1891.

Address: 85 Sultan Gate Tel: (+65) 6391-0450

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Istana Kampong Glam was refurbished as part of the development of the Malay Heritage Centre in 2004. It has been faithfully restored with special emphasis on its setting, as well as on retaining the compound, its walled enclosure, and the road leading to the building. Timber and cement were used to replicate the interior flooring of the former building.

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regional travelogue

SINGAPOREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

SECRET ISLAND GETAWAY

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By Chris Yates

ravelers don’t usually think of ultra-modern Singapore as a destination suitable for “stepping back in time,” but there is one quiet corner of the country where visitors can do just that: The island of Pulau Ubin is just a 10-minute boat ride off the northeast coast of the mainland, but it’s worlds away in terms of ambiance – here visitors will find one of Singapore’s few remaining kampongs (villages), as well as forests and wetlands, abundant wildlife, traffic-free roads, hiking and cycling trails, quiet temples, small seafood restaurants, and more. Opportunities for relaxation, exploration and adventure abound. Pulau Ubin means “Granite Island” in the Malay language, and in the 1960s it was populated by about 2000 settlers who worked in the island’s granite quarries to supply the local construction industry. The quarries began closing down in the 1970s, however, and residents left for the mainland as jobs dwindled. Fewer than 100 people live there today, and they lack many of the modern amenities enjoyed in the rest of the country: Water must be drawn from wells, diesel generators are used for electricity, and residents depend on traditional farming and fishing for subsistence.

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Pulau Ubin is also the site of several projects by the National Biodiversity Center, including the Hornbill Conservation Project to help in the breeding and recovery of the Oriental pied hornbill, which had previously become extinct in Singapore but has started to re-establish itself in places like Pulau Ubin and Changi. The center also initiated a project to monitor populations of seahorse and pipefish in Pulau Ubin and other locations around Singapore. The island’s wooden houses and jetties, laid-back residents, abundant wildlife and forestland, and abandoned quarries and plantations make it a popular destination for those seeking to escape the hubbub of urban life for a day. There are a few paved roads on the island, but most are gravel, and there is also a lengthy network of hiking trails. The

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THE ISLAND’S WOODEN HOUSES AND JETTIES, LAIDBACK RESIDENTS, ABUNDANT WILDLIFE AND FORESTLAND, AND ABANDONED QUARRIES AND PLANTATIONS MAKE IT A POPULAR DESTINATION FOR THOSE SEEKING TO ESCAPE THE HUBBUB OF URBAN LIFE FOR A DAY.

Visiting Pulau Ubin Pulau Ubin can be reached from mainland Singapore via a 10-minute bumboat ride from the Changi Point Ferry Terminal (formerly known as the Changi Village Jetty). A one-way ride costs S$3.00 per person. Each bumboat can carry 12 passengers and the captain will wait until his boat has reached maximum capacity before leaving. Those who do not want to wait can pay S$36.00 for the whole bumboat and depart whenever they are ready. Bicycles can be rented near the Pulau Ubin jetty for the entire day at prices ranging from S$2.00 to S$20.00 depending on the condition of the bike and the number of gears.

favored means of getting around for visitors are therefore walking and cycling, and mountain bikes can be hired from the many rental shops at the main village near the jetty. An easy walk near the jetty is the Sensory Trail, a flat, 1.5-kilometer loop that allows visitors to learn about native plants, fruit trees and herbs – such as basil, turmeric, ginger, and curry leaf – using their senses of sight, touch, and smell. Also within easy walking distance of the jetty is Butterfly Hill – a small sanctuary that attracts more 140 species of butterfly – and the former site of Pekan Quarry, which is now a picturesque lake surrounded by wildlife-rich forestland. Farther afield is Puaka Hill, which at 74 meters is the highest point on the island. The steep, rocky trail to the top only takes about 15 minutes and rewards the effort with spectacular views if the water-filled Ubin Quarry. One of the main attractions of Pulau Ubin is the Chek Jawa Wetlands, one of Singapore’s richest ecosystems marking the meeting of six unique MAI Myanmar Airways International

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ONE OF THE MAIN ATTRACTIONS OF PULAU UBIN IS THE CHEK JAWA WETLANDS, ONE OF SINGAPORE’S RICHEST ECOSYSTEMS MARKING THE MEETING OF SIX UNIQUE HABITATS.

habitats, including mangrove forests and an ancient coral reef. Amenities at the wetlands include a visitor’s center with a viewing jetty, as well as 1.1-kilometer boardwalk through the mangroves and along the coast that allows hikers to observe the plant and marine life at close range. The 20-meter-tall Jejawi Tower provides a panoramic view of the island’s lush tree canopy, making it a great place for birdwatching. Visitors to Pulau Ubin seeking a bit more in the way of outdoor action can head for Ketam Mountain Bike Park, featuring nearly 10 kilometers of trails designed specifically for off-road cycling. The trails are well-marked and are rated for difficulty – from flat, easy “blue-square” paths through open meadows, to gnarly “black-diamond” tracks featuring

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rocks, tree roots, and steep climbs and dropoffs. If the park seems too intimidating, the rest of the island is ripe for casual, non-technical exploration by bicycle. For those who would rather explore using paddle-power, several adventure companies have set up shop on the island that offer kayak tours through the mangroves around the Chek Jawa Wetlands A day of walking and cycling around the island can inspire a powerful hunger and thirst, so it’s fortunate that the main village is home to several small restaurants serving fresh seafood. Dining on local stapes like chilli crab and sambal squid rings, while enjoying a cold soft drink or beer, is a great way to end a visit to Pulau Ubin before hopping on the bumboat and heading back to civilization on Singapore’s main island.

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regional travelogue

Singapore Sights In June 2016, Singapore’s Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong visited Myanmar to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between the two countries. One of the significant outcomes of his trip was the signing of a long-awaited agreement to establish reciprocal visa-free travel. What this means is that, starting from December 1 of this year, citizens of Myanmar and Singapore need not to apply for visas for trips of up to 30 days between the two countries. This welcome arrangement promises to increase the number of Myanmar citizens who are interested in taking their holidays in the Association of Southeast Asian Nations’ mostdeveloped country. While Singapore is justifiably famous for its shopping and its food, there is plenty more to do for travelers visiting for their first – or second, or third, or fourth – time. Following is a quick guide to help firsttimers make the most of their holiday.

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Making the most of a trip to ASEAN’s most-developed nation

Marina Bay

ocated east of Singapore’s central business district, Marina Bay is packed with attractions that can take a whole day – or more – to explore. It is home to the weirdly iconic Merlion, an 8.6-meter-tall statue of a fish with a lion’s head spewing a stream of water from its mouth. Unveiled in 1972, the statue’s fish body symbolises Singapore’s early start as a fishing village called Temasek (“sea town” in Old Javanese), while the head represents Singapore city’s original name, Singapura, or “lion city” in Malay. Across the water is Marina Bay Sands, a resort that includes a 2561-room hotel, a convention centre, a shopping mall, two theatres, restaurants and bars, a skating rink and an atrium casino with 500 tables and 1600 slot machines. The complex is topped by the boat-shaped SkyPark – one of the best places to catch a view across the city while drinking coffee or sipping cocktails. Another high point along the bay is the Singapore Flyer, a huge Ferris wheel with air-conditioned passenger capsules that provides amazing views of the city and beyond during the 30-minute ride. No visit to Singapore would be complete without a few hours spent at Gardens by the Bay, a 101-hectare nature park consisting of three waterfront gardens. Many areas of the gardens are free to the public, including the spectacular Supertree Grove of vertical tree-shaped gardens that range in height from 25 to 50 meters. Tickets can be purchased to enter the Flower Dome – which replicates a mild, dry climate and features plants found in the Mediterranean and other semi-arid tropical regions – and the Cloud Forest, replicating cool, moist conditions found in tropical mountain regions between 1000 and 3000 meters above sea level found in Southeast Asia, and Central and South America.

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Splash the Cash

ingapore is justifiably famous for its endless shopping opportunities, but no place attracts more frenzied spending than Orchard Road. The 2.2-kilometer-long avenue is home to numerous shopping malls housing everything from high-end boutiques to discount electronics shops. Food options also abound, ranging from cheap hawker joints to gourmet restaurants. Special sales are held at different times of the year, and in December, Orchard is illuminated with a stunning Christmas light display. For a taste of Singaporeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s night life, head for Clarke Quay along the Singapore River, an eclectic collection of dozens of restaurants, bars and night clubs that stay busy until the early morning hours.

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Ethnic Neighbourhoods

here can be a certain sameness to Singapore’s hyper-glitzy high-rise skyline, but one of the country’s main attractions is its cultural diversity, which can be explored by visiting different ethnic neighbourhoods. The Indian community has a rich history in Singapore, and Little India dates back more than 200 years. Today it is a colourful, energetic place where traditional holidays are celebrated, during which much of the activity is centered on shrines like the Sri Veeramakliamman Temple. Not surprisingly, it’s a great area to seek out delicious South Asian food, as well as to shop for Indian fabrics. In the adjacent Arab Quarter visitors will find the gold-domed Sultan Mosque, built in 1825. Haji and Bali lanes are good for browsing boutique shops selling unique items, and there’s always music and good food as well. Attractions in Chinatown include the Chinese Heritage Centre, the Sri Mariamman Hindu Temple and the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. On side streets can be traditional medicine shops and inexpensive Chinese restaurants.

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Outdoor Excursions

ad enough of shopping and eating under the bright lights of Singapore? Head for Sentosa Island to hang out on the beach, go kayaking or visit Underwater World aquarium to swim with the dolphins. The island is also home to the Universal Studios Singapore theme park, with seven themed zones based on blockbuster movies or TV shows, more than 30 restaurants and food carts, and 20 unique retail stores. For an amble among the trees, visit Singapore Botanic Garden – named the county’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015 – or Fort Canning Park with its shady trails and historic attractions dating back to the 14th century. If animals are your thing, the Singapore Zoo holds more than 315 species. The popular Night Safari provides an unforgettable opportunity to see animals that are normally more active after the sun goes down.

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A Taste of Home

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isitors from Myanmar who start feeling a little homesick on their trip to Singapore can head for Peninsula Plaza, a favorite meeting spot for Myanmar nationals living and working in the city-state. Shops and restaurants sell Burmese goods and food, and you can even get your hair cut by a Myanmar-speaking stylist who will understand exactly how you would like your locks shorn. A bit outside of the central area is the Burmese Buddhist Temple on Tai Gin Road, the oldest Theravada shrine and the only Burmese Buddhist temple of its kind in Singapore. Founded in 1875, the temple houses the largest pure white marble statue of the Buddha outside Myanmar.

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W A K I in LO

NG LEEPI

Escape to the comforts of the contemporary and modern

Kayah Resort and discover the tradition

Beautiful Kayah Resort is located at a short distance from Loikaw Airport. With its convenient location, the Kayah Resort offers easy access to the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s must-see destinations. Guests can choose from 26 rooms, all of which exude an atmosphere of total peace and harmony. The hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s outdoor pool is an ideal place to relax and unwind after a busy day.

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Deluxe Rooms Kayah Resort offers 24 bungalow type Deluxe Queen and Twin rooms. Each room has own balcony with outdoor seating.

Executive Suites Rooms For luxurious selection, Kayah Resort offers Two-Bedroom Executive Suite featuring a spacious living room, separate dining room and kitchen and a large balcony with outdoor seating overlooking the swimming pool.

Address U Khun Li Street, Naung Yah (A) Quarter, Loikaw, Kayah State, Myanmar Ph: +959 25 888 7070, +959 25 888 2020, +958 321 374, +958 321 531 reservations@kayahresort.com

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recreation

Underground Kayah: LAND OF

CAVES

ayah State has an amazing variety of landscapes due to its geographical location at the southern edge of the Shan Plateau. North-south karst ridges merge, and 1000-meter-deep valleys have been cut by the Salween River and its tributaries. This provides a great opportunity for karstrelated eco-tourism in combination with the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rich ethnic culture. Recent surveys of Kayah State by the Myanmar Cave Documentation Project found an amazing variety of landscapes in the districts of Hpasawng, Demeso, and Hpruso, as well as very scenic karst landscape within easy reach of Loikaw. Key findings included the Red River Cave, which at 4.1 kilometers in length is now second-longest known cave of Myanmar, and the newly discovered Phruno River Cave, which has the potential of being one of the longest caves in Southeast Asia. The survey also confirmed Kayah as a new frontier for large river caves that had previously been seen only in northern Thailand.

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CAVE CRICKETS ARE FOUND IN ALMOST EVERY CAVE AND SEEM TO CONSTITUTE THE MAIN PREY OF PREDATORS.

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KYET CAVE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS HAVE BEEN DESIGNATED AS A NATIONAL RESERVE AREA AND SPECIAL GEOLOGICAL ZONE BY THE GOVERNMENT.

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The project has also found that the typical composition of the region’s cave fauna is similar to neighbouring northern Thailand and Laos. Both fruit bats and insectivorous bats are found in the caves more abundantly than in Laos, but not in the very large colonies like those in southern Thailand or Malaysia. Rats are commonly encountered in the caves, while snakes can occasionally be seen. Frogs are common inhabitants of water caves. Top invertebrate predators include large huntsman spiders and long-legged cave centipedes. Cave crickets are found in almost every cave and seem to constitute the main prey of predators. Three of the five longest caves in Myanmar are in Kayah State – the other two are in Shan State, including the listtopping 4,790-metre Khauk Khaung in Ywangan district. While many of these caves are remote and difficult to reach – or even located in areas off-limits to foreigners – the country’s fifth-longest cave is only 15 kilometers east of Loikaw on the road to Shadaw. This is the famous 2,194-meter Kyet Cave, which can easily be visited as a day trip from the state capital. Kyet Cave and its surroundings have been designated as a national reserve area and special geological zone by the government. It is considered one of the natural wonders of the region and attracts both local and foreign tourists, as well as Buddhist pilgrims, who are keen to explore the cave’s mysterious depths with local guides who can explain the formations. A monastery has been built near the opening to the cave. Just inside the cave entrance are several coffins, the remnants of old burial rites. The cave itself, according to local legend, is home to spirits and ghosts that can bestow miracles upon those who pay the proper respect, or curse those who do not. The cave is also called Yarsu Gu (“yarsu” means gunpowder and “Gu” means cave) because locals have used bat-droppings found there to produce gunpowder for fireworks. Kyet Cave is open to visitors from 9am to 3pm. It is a site not to be missed by anyone who makes the trip to Loikaw. MAI Myanmar Airways International

festival

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TAUNGGYI BALLOON FESTIVAL

he Taunggyi Balloon Festival is held each year in the town of Taunggyi, the capital of Shan State. Known as the Lu Ping Festival by the ethnic Pa-O, who organise the week-long event, the merry celebration includes firework-launching competitions, as well as hot-air-balloon competitions both day and night. The daytime balloons are custom-made in various fantastic shapes, including pagodas and animals, while the night balloons come in the form of huge, elongated paper balls with multicoloured paper lanterns â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and sometimes fireworks â&#x20AC;&#x201C; hung around their sides The Taunggyi Balloon Festival was held this year from November 8 to 14, coinciding with the full moon of the lunar month of Tazaungdine, which occurs one month after the end of Buddhist Lent.

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THE FIRST DAY AND THE LAST TWO DAYS ARE USUALLY THE BUSIEST, WITH THE FINAL NIGHT GETTING VERY HEAVILY AND SOMETIMES DANGEROUSLY CROWDED.

On each day, the festival starts in the morning and carries on until the very early hours of the next morning, with no official closing time. Too see dazzling balloons festooned with fireworks, head to the festival in the evening. For a safer, more child-friendly time, stick to the day events. There is also a fun fair with carnival rides and plenty of food and drink stalls throughout the event. The first day and the last two days are usually the busiest, with the final night getting very heavily and sometimes dangerously crowded. Book accommodation well ahead of time, as local hotels fill up quickly during the festival.

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photo essay

AMAZING BAGAN through the lens of Ko Crab

Bagan is one of the most visually astounding places I have ever visited. Any trip to Myanmar must include a visit to Bagan. For a photographer it is easy to understand. The most difficult thing about Bagan is trying to decide where to take photos. That being said, it is not a particularly easy place to photograph. However, I manage to take a few photos of Bagan as I see through my lens.

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p h o t o e s s a

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flash back

FLASH BACK Kayan (Padaung) mother and child inside a basket

Kayan folks ywai-ing the dead at a wake, possibly in the Kyala or Lopu area, circa 1950s

Kayah women fetching water

Traditional Kayah house near the Demoso-Pruso area

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Kayan Lathta (short-necked Padaung) hunters at Hankha or Nalone, circa 1950s

Traditional Kayan (Padaung) house at Lopu or Kyala

Kayah models Kayan (Padaung) Lahwi models

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Kayah women in colour

Kayan woman drying her hair at Lopu or Kyala

Layan Lahta repairing hunting guns

Young Lahta (short-necked Padaung) men, circa 1950s

Market day, circa 1950s

Three-generation Kayan Lahta (shortnecked Padaung) family

Two Kayan (Padaung) women

Kayah woman with pipe Kayah women dancing

Two Kayah women with water pitchers made from dried, mature gourds

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Kayan woman burning the ground for peanut cultivation

Portrait of a Kayan (Padaung) woman

A Kayan man playing the mahn (panpipes)

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The monarchies of

ASEAN Of the 10 member countries in the Association of Southeast Asian Nations, four are still monarchies: Brunei has an absolute monarchy, while Cambodia, Malaysia, and Thailand each have their own variety of constitutional monarchy. However, while rooted in ancient history, the very idea of royal rule has come under scrutiny in Southeast Asia, as increasing numbers of people raise important questions about whether monarchies are politically relevant, and the extent to which they are compatible with strides toward modernisation and democratisation. For now, ASEANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s four monarchies persist, maintaining revered positions in a region characterised by highly varied governments and contentious politics.

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By Vincent Van Winden

Brunei

PEOPLE IN BRUNEI REGARD THE MONARCHY WITH DEEP REVERENCE AND AWE.

runei is an Islamic absolute monarchy on the island of Borneo, presided over by Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah. The line of sultans goes back to 1405, and the sultan of Brunei today is one of the wealthiest men in the world and certainly the most powerful man in his country.

Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah holds total executive power as both the head of state and acts as his own prime minister. Since 1962 he has also held emergency powers and the offices of minister of defence and finance. In March of 2006 the sultan enacted a constitutional amendment to make himself legally infallible. Since 1991 the prevailing ideology has been known as Malay Islamic Monarchy, which stresses the role of the sultan as “defender of the faith” – Sunni Islam, in the case of Brunei. People in Brunei regard the monarchy with deep reverence and awe. People are very careful not to offend the sultan. Brunei has lèse majesté laws and it has used them to prosecute insults to royal family members. It is an offense to disclose information about royal family’s wealth. Bruneians honor the sultan on his birthday July 15 with festivals and parades, and on that day the sultan grants amnesty to selected prison inmates.

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Cambodia C

Cambodia is officially a kingdom, with a royal line stretching back to the 13th-century splendour of the Angkor empire. The king has traditionally been regarded as a god-king. French scholars have been able to trace a direct line from the great kings of Angkor to the current royal family. In the modern era, the king is a constitutional monarch with few real powers but a great deal of political influence. From 1993 to 2004, Norodom Sihanouk reigned as king, after having previously served in a number of political offices since 1941. The retired king was highly revered in his country for dedicating his life to Cambodia, and his death in October 2012 was cause for great mourning across the country. Norodom Sihanouk was succeeded on the throne by his son Norodom Sihamoni. While his role remains largely ceremonial, he still plays a vital part in the construction of the Khmer national identity. However, the death of Norodom Sihanouk, and the fact that Norodom Sihamoni spent most of his life abroad in France before becoming king, casts doubt on whether the current kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s views will be as highly respected as his fatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s over the long term.

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NORODOM SIHANOUK WAS SUCCEEDED ON THE THRONE BY HIS SON NORODOM SIHAMONI.

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Malaysia

WHEN THE COUNTRY ACHIEVED INDEPENDENCE IN 1957, THE CONFERENCE OF RULERS WAS FORMED UNDER ARTICLE 38 OF THE FEDERAL CONSTITUTION.

alaysia has a system of elective monarchy. The Yang di-Pertuan Agong is the highestranking office created by the constitution of the federation of Malaysia. The 14th and current Yang di-Pertuan Agong is Sultan Abdul Halim of Kedah. His reign began on December 13, 2011, after his election by the Conference of Rulers. The nine hereditary rulers in the Conference of Rulers elect one of themselves as the “supreme sovereign” or king who acts as head of state for a single five-year term. The deputy head of state is elected in the same manner and, although exercising no power, is available to fill the king’s position if the latter is absent or disabled. The Conference of Rulers is the supreme institution in the country and unique because it is the only such institution in the world today. When the country achieved independence in 1957, the Conference of Rulers was formed under Article 38 of the Federal Constitution. Malaysia has had 14 different Yang di-Pertuan Agong since 1957. This frequent change in rulership explains the inconspicuous and the low profile of the Yang di-Pertuan Agong compared to lifelong monarchs such as those in Brunei, Cambodia, and Thailand.

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Thailand O

n October 13, 2016, Thailand began a one-year mourning period for the death of King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX), the highly revered monarch who had ruled for 70 years. He was the ninth king from the House of Chakri, which has ruled since the founding of Bangkok by King Phutthayotfa Chulalok (Rama I) in 1782. King Bhumibol was born in the United States while his father, who did not serve as king of Thailand, was attending Harvard University. King Bhumibol ascended the throne in 1946 following the death of his brother and attained the distinction of being the world’s longest reigning monarch and the longest reigning king in Thailand’s history. While having little direct power, under the constitution King Bhumibol was a symbol of national identity and unity. He commanded enormous respect and moral authority, both of which he leveraged on rare occasions to resolve political crises that threatened national stability. In more recent years, however, he maintained a hands-off approach, urging Thais to learn to resolve their differences in an amicable way for the good of their country.

Following the king’s death, Maha Vajiralongkorn, the only son of King Bhumibol and Queen Sirkit, was expected to succeed to the throne of Thailand but asked for time to mourn. King Vajiralongkorn (Rama X) finally accepted the throne on December 1, 2016, but will not be crowned formally until after the cremation of his father, which is expected to occur in late 2017. The birthdays of the king and queen are celebrated as Father’s Day and Mother’s Day. At these times, huge portraits of them spring up all over Thailand, and newspapers and websites are full of messages of congratulations.

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THE BIRTHDAYS OF THE KING AND QUEEN ARE CELEBRATED AS FATHER’S DAY AND MOTHER’S DAY.

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interview

WUTYEE

FOOD HOUSE What was your favorite food as a small child? What memories do you associate with this particular food? Since childhood my favorite food has been the boiled glutinous oil rice, which my father prepared together with boiled garden peas, roasted sesame powder, shredded coconut, and dried fish. I still like it very much.

How did you first become interested in cooking? Did someone inspire you, or did you pick it up on your own? I had a little idea that it would be nice to attend a training course for cooking after graduation, so in 2008 I began attending a training course for cooking in hotels. It might be true to say that cooking became very interesting to me only after attending this class. Cooking a curry properly is like creating a work of art. My role models are celebrity chefs Gordon Ramsay, Jamie Oliver, and Rachael Ray, who have inspired me and whom I respect very much.

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COOKING A CURRY PROPERLY IS LIKE CREATING A WORK OF ART. MY ROLE MODELS ARE CELEBRITY CHEFS GORDON RAMSAY, JAMIE OLIVER, AND RACHAEL RAY, WHO HAVE INSPIRED ME AND WHOM I RESPECT VERY MUCH.

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JUST COOKING DIFFERENT KINDS OF CURRIES IS NOT REALLY ENOUGH. A COOK MUST KEEP THE KITCHEN VERY CLEAN, AND KNOW HOW TO PREPARE FOOD SYSTEMATICALLY, HOW TO HANDLE A KNIFE, HOW TO MIX THE INGREDIENTS. Where else have you learned new recipes aside from cooking school? Do you prefer traditional recipes, or do you sometimes experiment with new ingredients in an effort to invent your own original recipes? Many people are happy to cook in the privacy of their own homes. What motivated you to attend Star Resources Hospitality & Training Center and turn cooking into your profession? The usual homemade rice and curries have been familiar to me and my sisters and brothers since we were young. To begin cooking, all you need is to put some onion, garlic, chili powder, etcetera in hot oil in a pan. But during the three-month Star Resources Hospitality & Training Center training program, I learned about cooking in hotels more systematically. Just cooking different kinds of curries is not really enough. A cook must keep the kitchen very clean, and know how to prepare food systematically, how to handle a knife, how to mix the ingredients. Like any other profession, there is a lot to learn.

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A lot of recipes are taught at the training program, but after I finished the program I continued studying new recipes from cookbooks and the internet. Mainly, I wanted to share what I had learned with my brothers and sisters, who are also fond of cooking. So, apart from the Myanmar ways of cooking curries, I have studied recipes from the East and West. It is not very difficult to cook a good and tasty dish, but making new recipes and making them taste good takes a lot of responsibility. The essence of the curry needs to be re-created without completely changing it. So to cook new curries, I must first learn about the essence of the curry, then I can make special inventions. Do you ever travel around Myanmar looking for regional variations on different foods? I have always been fond of travelling. Wherever I go, there are a lot of local dishes to learn about. If I have the opportunity to travel around the country, I would like to study the recipes of different ethnic groups and then present them to the public.

traditional food

Rinse spring onions well in water, cut off the unwanted parts, and cut the onions into small pieces. Boil the pork in a salted water until the meat is softened and ready to eat, then cut the pork meat into small pieces. Thoroughly mix the small pieces of spring onion with the small pork pieces, then add 1 cup of rice flour, 1 teaspoon of salt, and a little water. Mix thoroughly. Wrap the mixture in banana leaves in the desired portions and seal the packages with toothpicks. Steam the banana leaf packages for at least 30 minutes. While waiting, make chili oil by heating 1 cup of oil in a frying pan, then adding half a cup of dry chilies. Stir over heat until the chilies become soft. Be careful not to overcook or burn the chilies. Serve the spring onion rice cakes with chili oil drizzled on top.

Hnin Htote (SPRING ONION RICE CAKES)

Ingredients

• • • • • •

Pork meat (use tomatoes for vegetarian option) Some bananas leaves 5 bunches of spring onions Rice flour 1 cup of oil Dry chilies

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Why did you start writing about food and recipes? What do you hope to accomplish with your blog and Facebook page? The Wutyee Food House blog is intended for Myanmar people who are fond of cooking. Although there are many sources available on how to cook international food, there were no step-by-step guides on Myanmar cooking methods. I started the website in 2009 with only about 20 recipes, but now there are more than 550 recipes on the blog. My Facebook page has also been successful, and people who are fond of cooking can see my good wishes to help them learn.

MYANMAR TRADITIONAL FOOD CARRIES AN ESSENCE THAT IS REALLY VERY DELICIOUS AND AMAZINGLY NICE.

When did you start your cooking program on television? In 2009 I started posting recipes online and publishing cookbooks. My first cooking show was broadcast on the Myawaddy TV channel in 2004. Televised cooking shows are different from recipes presented in cookbooks because some cooking methods that are impossible to describe in writing can be easily demonstrated on the TV screen. This is why televised cooking shows were started.

Why do you think food from Myanmar is less famous internationally than food from neighboring countries like Thailand, China and India? Do you have hopes that Myanmar food can become more widely known outside the country? Myanmar traditional food carries an essence that is really very delicious and amazingly nice. But it is still necessary for our cuisine to become more widely known around the world. It is mainly concerned with the preparation of the dishes. A dish which is nicely cooked can be delicious or tasty, but this is not enough. It is very important to prepare the dishes to attract customers and a wider range of people.

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UEC GROUP BRANCH OFFICES : Unlimited Express (Taiwan) Corp. Tel : 886-2-2558-9323 Fax : 886-2-2556-3507 E-mail : overseas@uecgroup.com.tw

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we are in wonderland

n i E R A WE Loikaw is the capital of Kayah State, one of the least-visited but more picturesque places in Myanmar. The state is home to mountain-top pagodas, volcanic lakes, mysterious caves and a vast array of ethnic groups, including the Padaung â&#x20AC;&#x201C; due to the golden rings traditionally placed around their necks from a young age. Bordering Thailand and rich in rivers and teak, most of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s attractions are natural, such as lakes and caves, and trekking is popular. Hill-top pagodas provide stunning views of the area, stretching all the way to the Shan mountain range. The Kayah people are also friendly and intrigued by the relatively unusual sight of foreign tourists.

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Taung Kwe Pagoda

Isabell and Tobias (Germany)

These Germans were delighted with their visit to Loikaw, and were happy to bypass the elevator and climb to Taung Kwe Pagoda using the amazing stairs. The pagoda, perched atop Mingalar Thiri Mountain, is one of the most venerated Buddhist sites in the area. It is also famous for its views of the countryside and the sunset. With help from one of Loikawâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most experience tour guides, U Htay Aung, Isabell and Tobias said they were determined to climb as many mountains as they could while visiting the Loikaw area.

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Pan Pet village

Anis, Marilona, Bernard and Jeannette (France)

These French tourists spent a day venturing to Pan Pet village, about 90 minutes south of Loikaw, for the chance to take short, scenic hikes and meet local residents – including the “long-necked” ethnic Padaung women. These women have followed the tradition of wearing neck rings, starting with brass coils around the age of five and adding more as they grow older. However, fewer and fewer young Padaung are following this tradition these days. These tourists confessed to having a great time listening to Mu Pra’s guitar, and they also demonstrated their French vocal skills. Jeannette said she was very happy to sing a song for Mu Pra.

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Htee Pwint Kan

Andy

(United Kingdom) Andy said he was quite amazed with this pristine area, now that tourist are able to visit Loikaw â&#x20AC;&#x201C; even though some places are still not open to tourists. During his travels he visited Htee Pwint Kan, or Umbrella Pond, in the middle of the paddy fields. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only about 30 metres in circumference but has an interesting Kayah folktale behind it, involving a story about how the pond was dug by a crocodile with the help of a white buffalo.

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burmese section

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opfus? opfusrS jynf0}[lí jzpf\/ þpum; t& ta&;tygqH;k pD;yGm;a&;vkyif ef;rSm opfvyk f ief;jzpfonf/ u,m;vlrsKd;wdkYonf opfxkwf vkyfa&;? opfawmxGuf ypönf;jzpfaom &Sm;? csdyf? opfap;? ysm;? ysm; za,mif;? yGJvsuf xkwfvkyfa&;wdkYjzifh toufarG;0rf;aMumif; jyK vmcJMh uonf/ v,f,mpdu k yf sKd;a&;wGif ajrjyefY wGif pdkufysKd;jcif;? a&oG,fpdkufysKd;jcif;? awmif ,mpdu k yf sK;d jcif; jyKvkyMf uonf/ &uúef;vkyif ef;? aiGxnfvkyfief;wdkYudk vkyfudkifMuonf/ aiG awmifv, G t f w d f emrnfausmfonf/ zm;pnfrS pí jcL? acgif;avmif;? armif;? ya'giftrsK;d orD;rsm; vnfwiG f qGyJ wfonfh aMu;acGrsm; jyKvkyaf om aMu;vkyfief;wdkYudk vkyfudkifMuonf/ tpdk;&vkyfief;BuD;rsm;taejzifh avmydw a&tm;vQypf pfxw k v f yk af &;vkyif ef;? urÇmausmf armfcs;D owåKwGi;f rS cJrjzL? 0lz&rf? caemufprd ;f ESih f oH½ikd ;f rsm; xkwv f yk af om vkyif ef;? vGKd ifaumfNrKd U ausmufjym;puf½HkrS ausmufpm;yGJ? ausmufyef;

tdk;? Murf;cif;ausmufjym; ponfwdkYudk xkwf vkyfaom vkyfief;rsm; &Sdonf/ ppftpd;k &tkycf sKyfaom umvwpfavQmuf ESpaf ygif;rsm;pGm u,m;jynfe,fonf tpd;k &ESihf wdik ;f &if;om;vufeufuikd f tzGUJ rsm;pGmMum; y#d yu©jzpfygG ;&m teufa&mife,fajrwpfck jzpfaecJh NyD; uefYowfa'ojzpfum vHkNcHKrItmrcHcsuf r&SdyJ oGm;a&;vma&; cufcJcJhonf/ ,cktcg xdktajctaersm; ajymif;vJcJhNyDjzpfí u,m;? u,ef;vlrsKd;wd\ Yk ESpo f pfu;l yGaJ wmf umvrsm; wGif vdKG ifaumf? 'Darmqd;k paomNrdKUrsm;ü jynf wGif;{nfhonfrsm;omru EdkifiHjcm;om;rsm;yg vma&mufí tm;ay;aeMuNyDjzpfí tvGefpnf um;vsuf &SdaeayNyD/ vGr;f armzG,af umif;aom ok"Ek a'G;r,f a e m f w d k Y & J U aemufcHordkif;Zmwfvrf;jzifh xif&Sm; ausmfMum;cJhwJh aiGawmifjynf wnf&Sd&m u,m; jynfe,fodkY rnfolrqdk wpfcgwpfacguf oGm; a&mufvnfywfí u,m;? u,ef;? a*cdk? a* bm;? rEkraem? ,if;abmfvlrsKd;wdkY\ b0udk Munfh½Iavhvm rQa0cHpm;oifhMuayonf/ ausmfouf[ef

tvkyftudkifrsm; u,m;jynf e ,f o m;wd k Y \ qd k ½ d k ; pum; wpfckrSm ]zm;atmfrS rdk;&Gm? rdk;&GmrS ig;armh? ig;armhrS a&BuD;? a&BuD;rS qifqGJ? qifqGJrS MAI Myanmar Airways International

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O YANGON HEAD OFFICE No.147, Pyay Road, 8½ Miles, Mayangone Township, Yangon, Myanmar. Tel: (95-1) 9670022 Fax: (95-1) 665461 E-mail: bookings@maiair.com BANGKOK OFFICE 8th Floor, Unit 3803, BB Building, 54 Asoke Road, Sukhumvit 21, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand. Tel: (66-2) 261-5070 Fax: (66-2) 261-5075 E-mail: bkk.resvn@maiair.com GAYA Gaya International Airport,Gaya (India) Pin-823004. Tel: (91) 6312-210688 Fax: (91) 6312-210688 E-mail: gaya.stn@maiair.com GUANGZHOU Room W204, West Wing Hotel Pullman Guangzhou Baiyun Airport, postal code 510470 Tel: (86) 20 3606 2121 Fax: (86) 20 3607 0712 E-mail: kmg.cm@maiair.com can.stnmgr@maiair.com KUALA LUMPUR OFFICE Suite 1302, letter Box CP12 Central Plaza, Jalan Sultan Ismail, 50250 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Tel: (60-3) 21421199 Fax: (60-3) 21414433 E-mail: kul.resvn@maiair.com kul.sales@maiair.com kul.bookings@maiair.com SINGAPORE OFFICE #03-77, Passenger Terminal Building 1, Singapore Changi Airport, Singapore 819642 Mailing Address: P. O. Box 78, Singapore Changi Airport, Singapore 918143 Tel: (65) 6235-5005 Fax: (65) 6836-9449 E-mail: sin.resvn@maiair.com

GENERAL SALES AGENTS (GSAs) France APG FRANCE 66 Avenue des Champs-Elysées 75008 Paris Phone: +33 (0)1 53 89 28 08 E-Mail: mai@apg.fr Germany APG GERMANY GMBH Leonhardstrasse 22 61169 Friedberg Phone: +49 (0)6031 737 630 E-Mail: mai@apg-ga.de Guangzhou PACIFIC AVIATION MARKETING (BEIJING) LTD GUANGZHOU BRANCH OFFICE Rm 1806, B Tower, China Shine Plaza. No.3-15 Lin He Xi Road, Guangzhou, China. Phone: 020 –38399746, +86 18620039350 Fax: 020 – 85237495 E-mail: yoyotan@pam.com.hk winnyhuo@pam.com.hk Hong Kong PACIFIC AVIATION MARKETING (HK) LTD. Room 2505, 25th Floor, Caroline Centre, 28 Yun Ping Road, Causeway Bay. Phone: (85-2) 2926 2030 Fax: (85-2) 2187 3443 Email: pamoperation@pam.com.hk

India STIC TRAVEL 2nd Floor, Tower C, Cyber Green, DLF Phase III, Gurgaon Haryana, 122002, India Phone: 0124-4595300 E-mail: gurpreet.sangar@sticgroup.com Website: www.stictravel.com Indonesia PT DEKS AVIATION INTERNUSA Wisma Tamara Lt. 8 # 801 jl. Jend Sudirman Kav. 24, Jakarta 12920, Indonesia. Phone: (62-2) 15279933 Fax: (62-2) 15271122 E-mail: mike@deks.co.id Website: www.deksair.com Israel MAMAN AVIATION 65, YIGAL ALON Street, Tel-Aviv 67443, Israel. Phone: (972) 3562 9334 Fax: (971) 4266 8066 E-mail: asian-airlines2@mamanaviation.co.il Italy INTERPLANET S.R.L. (APG ITALY) 22 Via Alserio 20159 Milan Phone: +39 199 11 88 55 E-Mail: mai@interplanet-gsa.it Japan MYANMAR AVIATION INTERNATIONAL CO.,LTD Osaka Matsuda Buil. 2-3-10, Kitahama, Chou-ku Osaka, Japan, Zip Code: 541-0041 Phone: +81 6 6203 1188 E-Mail: info@myanmarair.jp Korea CRYSTAL AVIATION 18 F, Daekyo Tower, 23, Boramae-ro3-gil, Kwanakgo, Seoul, Korea Phone: (82-2) 69124842 Fax: (82-2) 69124899 E-mail: mh.roh@twohandsmedia.com, mihyun_roh@daekyo.co.kr Kunming CHINA GOLD BRIDGE TRAVEL CO.,LTD. Lot 1021, Building 6, Xinduyuncheng, Yongping Road, 650000 Kunming, Yunnan, P.R.China, Phone: 86 087167166633 Email: 289462582@qq.com 552397547@qq.com 549665641@qq.com Spain SILON AVIACION Paseo de la Castellana 135, Floor 14, office A, 28046 Madrid, Spain. Phone: (34-91) 323 2673, (34-91) 323 2901 Fax: (34-91) 315 8894 E-mail: bcn@silonaviacion.com reservas@myanmarairways.es Switzerland APG SWITZERLAND LTD. Schaffhauserstrasse 115 Airport City, 8302 Kloten Phone: +41 (0)44 220 1942 E-Mail: maiair@apg-ga.ch Taiwan FAR EAST INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL SERVICE CO., LTD. 10th floor, No.176, Chang Chun Road, Zhong Shan District, Taipei City,Taiwan 10485 Phone: (+886) 0800-656-689

Email: maiair-tw@maiair.com.tw United Kingdom APG GLOBAL ASSOCIATES Axis House, 242 Bath Road Heathrow UB3 5AY Phone: +44 (0)844 482 1677 E-Mail: mai@apg-ga.co.uk

PASSENGER SALES AGENTS (PSAs) Greece AIRLINK TRAVEL SERVICES CO, LTD. 5 Mitropoleos Street, GR 10557, Athens Phone: (30-1) 324 9725, (30-1) 324 9726 Fax: (30-1) 324 9729 E-mail: airlink.ltd@gmail.com Italy DISTAL S.R.L Via Delle Arti 123, 00054 Fiumicino, Rome Phone: (39-0) 660 214 302 Fax: (39-0) 660 214 860 E-mail: commerciale@distal.it

Middle East & South Asia Indonesia PT. AVS INDONESIA Ground Floor Wisma Mandiri Building, JI M.H Thamrin No. 5, Jarkarta 10340. Phone: 006221 391 5506 Fax: 006221 392 9948 Email: avs@aviationindonesia.com reservation@aviationindonesia.com Japan AIR & TRAVEL MARKETING.,INC Mita SS Bldg, 6F 5-27-1, Shiba Minato-ku, Tokyo Japan 108-0014 Phone: +81 354395606 Fax: +81 334560454 Email: kurihara@a-tm.jp sfujii@a-tm.jp Website: www.a-tm.jp Philippines FLIGHT CARE AVIATION PHILS. INC. 3F Pair Pags Center, Ninoy Aquino Avenue Pasay, City 1300 Philippines Phone: (+632) 854-5837 Fax: (+632) 854-5761 E-mail: rommel.evangelista@flightcare.com.ph Website: www.flightcare.com.ph Sri Lanka AIR LIFT ( PVT ) LIMITED Pership House (Two), 35, Edward Lane, Colombo 3, Sri Lanka. Phone: +94 11 2 598184 - 6 Fax: +94 11 2 598187 E-mail: 8Mpax@pership.com, randy@pership.com Website: www.pership.com Sri Lanka MAC AIR EXPRESS PRIVATE LIMITED "The Wavertree" 141/9, Vauxhall Street, Colombo - 02, Sri Lanka. Fax: +94 11 2302590 E-mail: thisumj@macisc.com United Arab Emirates (UAE) AL AABDI TRAVEL P40/2 Khalifa Al Roumi Building, Port Saeed, Deira, Dubai, PO Box: 15016, U.A.E. Phone: (971) 42686869 Fax: (971) 42668066 E-mail: zulfi@alaabditravel.com

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Mingalar Bar !

MYANMAR

Mongalar Bar !

RAKHINE

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USEFUL

phrases

Mai Soong Kha ! SHAN

Aou Hsaung Lah Hseik !

PWO KAREN (WEST)

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