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S P A T I A L
By Jessica Edwards, Jessica Wiseman, Kate Woodhall, Abigail Darkin and Gemma Hague
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Radical Luxury
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Radical Luxury Research Board
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Key Driver - Biophilia
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Key Driver - Age of Distraction
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Key Driver - Minimalist Movement
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Key Consumers
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Brand Research
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Key Brands
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Synopsis
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Concept Board
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Research Boards
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Artist Research
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Strategy Overview
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R ADICAL LU XU RY
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Radical Luxury
Radical is characterised by a departure from tradition; innovative or progressive (Dictionary, 2017). Radical is unorthodox and holds individualistic meaning. When combined with luxury a new concept is formed taking high value products and ideals and turning them into revolutionary ideas. Stepping away from current boundaries and making a long-lasting impact. Luxury is defined by being a desirable item which is expensive and difficult to obtain (Dictionary, 2017). However, luxury isn’t just about physical items it can be something rare or finite such as the value of time, often wasted and always a need for more. The value of nature, materials and animals that are soon to be extinct and their ability to drastically change our current environment. Luxury isn’t about holding the most expensive desirable item, it is about harnessing what is available at present which will be unable to obtain in the future. Radical luxury is something once used that can never be the same again, nothing is forever.
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2 Radical Luxury Research Board
Tre nd In s p i ra t i on a n d I mplica t ion s
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Ke y D ri ve r
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Further research showing positives effects of biophilia comes from several studies such as that conducted by ‘World Green Building Council’, showing better grades in school and less time spent in hospitals from factors such as natural light and good ventilation. Elements such as good ventilation are also key, as the ‘French public health authority’ found that air pollution lead to 48,000 premature deaths in 2016 (Independent, 2016) In addition to this, for the UK alone mental health problems are costing the economy £100bn a year. The reduction of urban stress may lead to a more positive outcome for the populations mental health, thereby helping the economy if biophilia methods were followed, reconnecting us with nature and our environment (View Point, 2017).
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Key Trend - Biophilia
According to the biophilia hypothesis, humans have an innate tendency to seek connections with nature, with positive effects on our mental health and wellbeing found in contact with other forms of life (View Point, 2017). This disconnection from the natural world has been caused by factors such as the increasing rates of urbanisation and migration to urban settings, along with technological developments which have changed human interaction with nature significantly in the 19th and 20th century (Rodgers, 2017). As reported by ‘The US Environmental Protection Agency’ those who live in a city spend 90% of their time indoors, which correlates with ‘The World Health Organisations’ research, with the expectation of stress related illness such as mental health and cardio-vascular disease being the largest contributors to disease in 2020. By incorporating elements of nature both directly and indirectly into the built environment will increase productivity, rates of wellbeing and creativity, whilst reducing blood pressure, heart rates and stress (Oliver Heath Design, 2017).
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Imp acts
Further developments using the biophilia hypothesis is a vertical forest in Asia, created by Stefano Boeri Architetti. A high-rise building used for offices, a museum and a school has been coated in beautiful living plants, which will regenerate biodiversity and “provide 25kg of CO2 absorption each year, and produce 60kg of oxygen per day.” (Scott,2017). In addition to this, 1,100 trees and 2,500 cascading plants will cover a 6,000-square meter area, fully combining humans and nature together (Boeri, 2017).
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Key Trend - Biophilia
Brands and architects are beginning to incorporate elements from the biophilia hypothesis into buildings and within physical stores and spaces. Architects Kengo Kuma have created a ‘green hospital’, connecting those inside with nature through natural light created from floor to ceiling windows, as well as being surrounded by trees and plants (Rosenfield, 2015). The Narita Rehabilitation Centre which was opened in 2017 also has triangular timber louvres around the exterior of the building, which controls both shade and sight towards scenic areas surrounding the hospital, further connecting patients with nature (Dezeen, 2015).
Future For consumers to see the positive effects of biophilia in their mental health and wellbeing, retailers need to incorporate elements from the hypothesis into physical stores, as well as educating consumers in both brick and mortar stores and on e-commerce. Within a retail space, biophilia can be naturally incorporated through plants, good ventilation and natural light where possible, and can also be done subtly without making it the spaces main focus to aid the customers health.
Conseq uence
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Key Trend - Biophilia
Although many consumers may not know the biophilia hypotheses, many are purchasing more plants for their houses and spaces and connecting with nature, whether it being consciously or subconsciously. The connection between nature and consumers is shown in the Instagram account ‘Urban Jungle Bloggers’ who gained 270,000 followers in a year, with the majority being millennial woman, according to the Washington Post (Theis, 2017). This demonstrates the interest and connection this consumer has with nature, which shows the importance of retailers educating their consumers and spreading the importance of the biophilia hypothesis.
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Constant digital acceleration and innovation has transformed the way we live and communicate. The internet has become an integral part of everyday life for 50% of the world’s population. There are approximately 3.77 billion internet users and 2.80 billion social media users across the globe (Kemp, 2017). We are now more globally connected than ever before and can spend time doing the things we love online – such as communicating with friends and family. Nonetheless, social media and mobile technology is having a negative psychological impact. The world is saturated with social media and interruptions causing many to struggle with focusing on what’s in front of them (Goins, Unknown). This has been identified as ‘The Age of Distraction’ by American philosopher Matthew Crawford. Our brains are in a continual state of overload and always distracted by new pieces of information (Digiulio, 2017). The average person spends approximately 3 hours per day on a smartphone (Lipsman, 2017). These constant stimulants are significantly challenging the human capacity to maintain focus and the ability to understand things in detail. Furthermore, research shows there is a strong link between heavy social media use and mental health issues. For example, a study carried out by the University of Pittsburgh in 2016 revealed those who use 7-10 social media platforms were 3 times more likely to report depressive symptoms than those who use 2 or fewer (It’s Time to Log off, Unknown). It is therefore important to form a healthy balance and allow digital technology to aid and enhance our lives rather than disrupt and distract.
Key Trend - The Age of Distraction
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Key Driver
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Elanation is a lifestyle technology company and platform dedicated to tackling childhood addiction with fitness play. The platform successfully bridges the physical and digital play worlds for 5 to 12 year olds by rewarding outdoor physical activity with a range of fun and inspiring digital rewards (Elanation, Unknown). Katherine Pace, CEO of Elanation, believes while children are born ‘digital natives’, the more they are handed iPads, computers, and mobile phones, the more cases of childhood obesity and digital depression or addiction emerge (McLean, 2017). This product tackles these concerns by teaching children to have a healthy and balanced relationship with technology. 19
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Digital Detox is the first internationally renowned tech-free personal wellness retreat. Attendees give up their digital arm to recharge, gain perspective, and re-evaluate their relationship with digital technology. The programme provides a balance of structured and free time with a variety of activities including yoga, cooking, and hiking aimed to re-connect participants with themselves, their community, and nature. Participants emerge from the experience with new found inspiration and tools to create more mindful, meaningful, and balanced lives, both online and off. The retreat also helps reduce anxiety, tech dependency, and information overload (Digital Detox, Unknown).
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Key Trend - The Age of Distraction
Im p acts
Future
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It is now vital for retailers to educate their consumers on the psychological and social issues found in modern society. Consumers need to be guided on how to form healthy and balanced lifestyles regarding all aspects of life. Retailers may begin to create more mindful and meaningful shopping experiences where customers focus on what is going on around them rather than what is on their phones. Clothing brands may also integrate smart fabrics into their ranges which provide consumers with added health benefits.
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There is a growing concern amongst consumers over the negative social and psychological effect digital technology has when used incorrectly. Recent studies have found only 47% of consumers believe digital technology will make their lives better, vs. 44% who say it’s too soon to tell, and 10% who are convinced digital technology will make life worse (Webroot, Unknown). Alongside this, consumers are becoming proactive in their approach to leading a healthy lifestyle. Progressive health and wellness consumers are increasingly influential in redefining food culture - they are focused on real quality food and positive nutrition (Hartman Group, 2015). This would suggest that consumers are slowing down and becoming more mindful of how they live and the products they buy into.
Key Trend - The Age of Distraction
Conseq uence
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Key Driver
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Key Trend - Minimalist Movement
The current economic landscape has caused consumers to become more conscious of their spending habits. According to The Office for National Statistics, household spending growth slowed to 0.1% in the three months to June 2017 – the slowest rate of quarterly growth since 2014. This slowdown in private consumption has been caused by weak levels of wage growth and rising inflation (Partington, 2017). Consequently, a ‘minimalist movement’ is emerging whereby millennial consumers are adopting a ‘back to basic’ lifestyle. This involves decluttering their lives, reducing waste, only purchasing essential products and experiencing the new. A recent survey carried out by Harris Poll and Eventbrite found 78% of millennials “would rather pay for an experience than material goods” (Weinswig, 2016). San Francisco State University also found that people who spent money on experiences rather than material items were happier and felt their money was better spent (Pozin, 2016). This demonstrates a change in society – people now value experiences over materialism as it makes them happier. This ‘back to basic’ lifestyle forms a connection with nature as consumers become more focused and aware of the world around them. Consequently, consumers are benefiting from less stress, more self-confidence and improved physical health. The ‘minimalist movement’ is an ongoing process which allows consumer
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Im p acts
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In 1930, the average woman had only 36 items of clothing. Today, the average woman has 103 items of clothing, but 80% go unworn (Cladwell, Unknown). To combat this unsustainable habit of mass consumption, Blake Smith created Cladwell, an app that helps consumers create capsule wardrobes. The app, which is available in the UK and USA, has been designed to help build a simple, interchangeable wardrobe that emphasises quality over quantity (Weinswig, 2016). With users saving over $600 per year, Cladwell shows consumers that “being sustainable and responsible is not about getting more, it’s about getting smarter about what we have” (Cladwell, Unknown).
Key Trend - Minimalist Movement
The Millennial Housing Lab is an example of how the minimalist movement is manifesting across sectors. The company have established a new holiday experience in the U.S called ‘Getaway’. The project builds tiny houses, places them on beautiful rural land and rents them at $99 per night to city dwellers looking to escape the digital grind and test-drive tiny house living (Millennial Housing Lab, 2015). This experience is designed to bring individuals back to their elements and challenge them to rediscover the pleasure of boredom, solitude and unstructured time. The Millennial Housing Lab wants to help offer “a simpler life, being friendlier to the environment, financial security, selfsufficiency and lots of adventure” (Weinswig, 2016).
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C on s e qu e n ce
Fu t u re It is now vital for retailers to become aware of these changes by offering a retail experience that fits the new needs of consumers. Retailers may begin by providing more refined product ranges which highlight the importance of buying less, but better. Alongside better-quality items, retailers may focus more on creating a meaningful and transparent instore experience which educates consumers on products as they shop. As consumers adopt this ‘back to basic’ lifestyle, fast fashion brands may see a decline in sales as consumers resent their unsustainable practices.
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Key Trend - Minimalist Movement
The current economic landscape has caused consumers to become more conscious of their spending habits. Consumers are buying fewer but better-quality products to make the most of their reduced disposable income. Visa UK Consumer Spending Index found spending on clothing and footwear had declined by 5.2pc in July 2017. However, hotels, restaurants and bars saw a 6pc increase, and recreation and culture was 1.3pc higher than July 2016. (Tovey.A, 2017) These statistics demonstrate how priorities are changing as consumers are buying into experiences rather than materialistic items as they realise that more things do not always equate to more happiness.
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Retail Consumers and demographics
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T h e Ess e n t i a lis t The Essentialist consumer tribe are 27-37-year-old millennials seeking to live more meaningfully and productively – making them a key ‘Spatial consumer. They are aware that more things do not always equate to more happiness and consequently prefer to purchase fewer but better products. Essentialists are conscious consumers with a firm ethical stance. Approximately, 73% are willing to spend more on a product if it comes from a sustainable brand. (Landrum, 2017) (Viewpoint, Unknown)
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Key Consumer
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‘ We’ n o t ‘ Me’ The ‘We’ not ‘Me’ consumer tribe are 17-27 year olds from Generation Z aspiring to create a better future – making them a key Spatial consumer. They have an interest in leading a healthy lifestyle and are keen to make a positive difference in the world with 76% concerned about humanity’s impact on the planet (Martin, 2016). Although technologically savvy, ‘We’ not ‘Me’ consumers are mindful of the negative psychological, cultural, and social impacts digital addictions pose. Consequently, these consumers seek to remain focused in an intensely distracted society and form balanced relationships between the online and offline world.
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Key Consumer
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Product Range and Brands
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Surrey based Copper Clothing have produced a product range infused with copper. The company’s aim is to improve people’s health and wellbeing by tackling antibiotic resistance. The copper infused materials provide permanent and safe anti-microbial properties. It also promotes the development of blood vessels and rejuvenates the skin through the synthesis of collagen and elastin. Currently, their clothing range consists of basic male and female underwear, socks and pyjamas. However, there is an opportunity to expand this range into everyday clothing as their exclusive technology allows products to be developed from several materials, including yarns in different deniers, short fibres, polymers and even membranes (Copper Clothing, Unknown).
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Brand Research
Copper Clothing
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The influential Parisian concept boutique, Colette, is celebrating its 20th anniversary and final opening months with ‘The Relay 6x123m’. Each month, a single brand is invited to transform the second floor of the Colette store and create a custom-made installation including exclusive pieces. The campaign began in June 2017 with Balenciaga, followed by Les Vacances de Lucien and Sacai. During its final 3 months, collaborations are planned with Thom Browne, Chanel and Saint Laurent with the store set to close in December, 2017 (Colette, 2017).
Brand Research
Colette
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Aesop Australian brand Aesop have been offering skin, hair and body products since 1987 selling their ranges made of the finest quality by focusing on sourcing plant based and laboratory made ingredients for each of their products; Aesop choose to only work with reputable suppliers for their ingredients which they then pair with contemporary technology and scientific practices (Aesop.com). Aesop’s current Elemental facial barrier cream is infused with copper PCA which keeps redness at bay; this is their first step into using copper within their products and highlights how the brand are open-minded to trying new innovations with their consumers best interests in mind. Copper Clothing has many health benefits for its consumer but the most notable that can lend itself to skincare is how it rejuvenates skin through the synthesis of collagen and elastin (copperclothing.com), and as the minimal movement key driver suggests, more people are looking to make wiser, mindful spending decisions whilst experiencing the new. Through a collaboration with Copper clothing, Selfridges can sell a new innovative skincare with Aesop which gives its mindful consumer justification to invest in a luxury product.
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Key Brands
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Vetements
As Vetements aren’t shy of causing controversy they appeal to the ‘we not me’ consumer, the generation that are realists who are looking for products and messaging that reflect the reality they’ve grown up in; this consumer tribe are mindful and want to create a better future, they have realist attitudes and want to make a positive difference and will invest in a product that has health benefits (forbes.com).
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Key Brands
French clothing brand Vetements launched their first collection in 2014 and with their niche street style edge Vetements became the most talked about brand at Paris fashion week and quickly gained a reputation of being ‘Fashion’s coolest label’; From then on Vetements have had sell out collections, spreads in Vogue and A-list fans which has seen their reputation and status continuously rise (marieclaire.co.uk). Slogan t-shirts, hoodies, denim skirts and sock boots have formed a part of Vetements aesthetic since they first launched but it’s their controversial pieces such as bum zip jeans, DHL t-shirts and ‘cocaine stash’ necklaces that have gained the most attention leading them to be known as a ‘controversial brand’ (dailymaillonline.com).
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Olivia von Halle
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Key Brands
Olivia von Halle is a luxury sleepwear brand which was established in 2011. The brand offers an extensive product range within its niche such as Pyjamas, robes, kimonos, night shirts and eye masks. The company’s ethos is guided through the designers’ passion for travel and lifestyle, taking influences from timeless loungewear pieces of the 1920’s which fed the demand for luxury innovative loungewear. The successful launch of the ‘missy’ tracksuit in 2016 presented a new trend direction for the brand offering loungewear to be sold as ready-to-wear, launching its first collection in September this year. Olivia von Halle’s products are sold by over 100 prestigious retailers including Selfridges, Harrods and Net-a-porter.com (OliviavonHalle, 2017.) The Spatial concept upholds the importance of health and wellbeing, reinstated by the need for people to be aware of their surroundings. The essentialist consumer are a humanised representation of the concept striving for a stripped back lifestyle focused on quality and timeless items harnessing ‘less is more’ in all aspects of their lives. The loungewear sector holds demand for essentialist consumers who seek items out of quality, comfort and need. Nightwear is an essential element to any wardrobe especially as it is worn for the longest amount of time. As Copper Clothing benefits health, for the best results it is important that items are worn close to the skin for long periods of time. This creates an opportunity for a loungewear brand to align seamlessly with Copper Clothing. The collaboration would benefit the Olivia von Halle brand by introducing new innovation and technology within the clothing range, heightening the luxury aspect of products.
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Visual Merchandising Strategy
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S Y N OPS I S Humans have an innate tendency to seek connections with nature on physical, mental, and social levels. Contact with other forms of life has a positive effect on our mental health and wellbeing. Spatial captures the vital need for awareness within all surroundings. In an age of distraction awareness is impeded. Within the Biophilia theory urbanisation has caused a lack of awareness towards the natural world. Overconsumption has obstructed the awareness of meaningful purchasing decisions. A national unconsciousness has evolved devaluing the importance of personal health and wellbeing. There is a need to slow down, focus, and reconnect. Spatial explores how we can encapsulate nature in an urban environment and become more mindful of the products we purchase.
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Fixtures and Fittings
Fixtures and fittings hold rigid industrial shapes carving strong pathways for adjacent surfaces to follow suit. Layering, spiralling, organised patterns form an architectural landscape allowing products to become part of their journey. Structures follow a basic foundation but become distorted as their movement continues, warping the original formation as it develops and transforms with growth.
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Key Shapes
The key shapes take inspiration from modern architecture. It combines the use of geometric, abstract and dimensional lines with a focus on organic and natural structures.
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Key Textures
Featuring Metallic shines and patterned lines, the textures are rough and steely with built up layers that are ridged and hard. The surfaces are uneven and harsh providing an interest and detail into the textures.
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Lighting
Lighting accentuates and draws purpose to key points in a space. Reflection and shadows create characteristic and feeling within an area making product placement important. Lighting generates shape and directs attention to specific pathways that originally may have not been thought of; opening the minds of people within the space to become aware of their surroundings.
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Colour
The colour palette for Spatial takes inspiration from the modern world around us. It combines urban greys and beiges from cityscapes, and warm hues of brown, orange and copper to create a natural mix of light and dark. There is a focus on an earthy, organic and rustic aesthetic.
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P l a n t S c a pe
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‘Plantscape’ relates to the Biophillia hypothesis that there is a need to encapsulate nature in urban environments due to the positive health and wellbeing impacts. Through the concept of Spatial, plants can be discretely placed in various fixtures and fittings to neutralize the air inside Selfridges. Thus, improving the shopping environment and allowing customers to subconsciously connect with the natural world.
Artist Research
Supaform is a creative studio founded by product designer, Maxim Scherbakov. The studio’s purpose is to think between disciplines and combine sculpture, painting, design, and architecture. Their project ‘Plantscape’ explores how plants can survive in unsuitable environments. The modals simulate real urban conditions, such as the gap between concrete structures and paving tiles – all the places where seemingly nothing can grow (Supaform, 2016).
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B i o n i c c h a n de lie r
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In September 2017, Italian visionary Julian Melchiorri launched in London his ‘Exhale’ exhibit, containing the world’s first living Bionic Chandelier which purifies the air indoors (Chandler. B, 2017). The chandelier is made with glass leaves filled with living algae which were harvested in Julian Melchiorri’s workshop; it works as a large-scale air-purifier that takes carbon dioxide out of the air and puts it back as oxygen. This piece is said to be an exploration of advances in biotechnology and engineering which could filter into our everyday lives through household objects and architecture, increasing the quality of our lives (julianmelchiorri.com, 2017).
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Artist Research
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A U J IK S p a t ia l Bodie s
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Artist Research
Spatial bodies is the most recent creation by artist Aujik who merged urban landscapes and living organisms into a concrete vegetation. The video created through drone footage and digital manipulation displays an eerie city landscape which holds life like qualities, illustrating the characteristics of a ‘breathing city’. The warped reality conveys a fusion between chaos and order cultivating a new form of nature, one which has been created by mankind (AUJIK, 2016.) This artwork lends itself to a futuristic vision of city life in which nature has been tarnished by overpopulation and the expansion of rural areas. The video suggests that the future of nature lies within the surrounding extremities, in this case, buildings and other manmade architecture. This highlights the effect urbanisation and how living forms must morph and transform in order to survive in the future climate.
S t ra te gy O ve rview 66
After analysing Selfridges bestselling women’s brands in daywear, sleepwear, and skincare the selected brands are Vetements, Olivia Von Halle, and Aesop. Over the 6 month period, from January 2018 until June 2018, the brands will change every 2 months. As the collaborations are exclusive to the Birmingham Selfridges store, this will ensure customers who don’t visit the store often will have a chance of purchasing from the collections as well as become part of the spatial journey along with Selfridges. The instore aesthetic will take inspiration from both Plantscape and Spatial Bodies. This will encapsulate nature in an urban environment and provide the positive health and wellbeing impacts stated in the Biophillia hypothesis. Plants will be discretely placed inside fixtures and fittings to neutralise the air in Selfridges. Thus, improving the shopping environment and allowing customers to subconsciously connect with the natural world.
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Strategy Overview
Consumers are now more conscious of their health and wellbeing than ever before – it has become the new luxury. As a result, consumers are now seeking to purchase products with lasting health benefits. Therefore it is vital for Selfridges to provide their customers with the opportunity to buy into this new-found luxury. Taking inspiration from Colette’s collaborations with top designers, Spatial will create exclusive collaborations between Selfridges bestselling brands and Copper Clothing. They will be the very first copper infused ranges. Products will be targeted towards women as they are 73% more likely to purchase products with added health benefits, compared to only 27% of men (Authors Own, 2017). The chosen brands will diversify across different retail sectors to explore the future possibilities of copper infused products and reach a wider target audience.
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