Bangkok Trader – Volume 6, Issue 7 – June 2012

EE FR

VOLUME 6, ISSUE NO. 7

Unexplored Bangkok: Sao Ching Cha

JUNE 2012

Page 4

BANGKOK TRADER Volume 6, Issue No. 7 JUNE 2012

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Sao Ching Cha:

A Journey to Bangkok’s Past

By Dave Stamboulis Can you imagine a Bangkok with no condominiums, shopping malls, 7-Elevens, or skyscrapers? Probably not, and if you did find yourself wandering around in such a neighborhood, you might think you were somewhere other than the City of Angels. But such a neighborhood does exist, and the Sao Ching Cha enclave is one of the few spots in Bangkok worthy of wandering around in on foot, enjoying its quiet vibe and exploring its knockout places to eat.

Sao Ching Cha is so named for its icon, the Giant Swing, a religious structure formerly used to celebrate the Brahmin New Year. The giant red swing was built by Rama I in 1784 and was last used in 1935, discontinued after several fatal accidents, although it was reconstructed and has presided over several royal ceremonies in the past decade.

The Giant Swing ceremony represented the Hindu creation legend of Brahma and Shiva, with the pillars of the swing meant to be the mountains and its base, the earth and sea. Bags of coins were placed in the pillars suspended on a bamboo pole, and pilgrims would swing and try to grab them during the festivities.

While the Giant Swing is now just a landmark, the small streets surrounding it are home to some of Bangkok’s best food, and it is a pleasure to meander the tree-lined sois, with no high rises, modern stores, or even much traffic to mar the march back into time.

Just across from the swing, bordered by Bamran Muang and Dinso roads, along with the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration City Hall to the north, there is a large square that is an excellent spot for people watching. In the late afternoon, large crowds of government workers gather to do aerobics under a giant portrait of His Majesty the King, while at night, the area turns into Bangkok’s number one skatepark and breakdancing venue, with all sorts of alternative kids with punk haircuts and outlandish outfits cutting loose and showing off their moves.

During the day, Bamran Muang is home to some of Bangkok’s best Buddha gold leaf painters, with dozens of shops dedicated to painting and engraving Buddha images and preparing them for transport to temples and elsewhere.

However the main reason to come to Sao Ching Cha is to sample its culinary wonders, most of which have been around for decades.

Walking north up Dinso leads one to the Sao Ching Cha intersection, with Thanon Mahannop running off to one’s left. Down Mahannop, a short stroll brings you to a small noodle shop famed for making thick round udon style noodles not often found in Bangkok, served up with Chinese soup. The popular food column and TV show Perp Pitsadan came here 35 years ago to give the shop a ‘thumbs up’, and it is still going strong today.

Just across the street is Niyom Pochana, famed for its muu daeng red pork, which is busy throughout the day with regulars. Almost every little eatery in this neighborhood has received a Shell Suan Shim award for food excellence of a certain dish.

Continuing down Mahannop, you come to the intersection with Tanao Road.

Take a left here and walk south past Bangkok Bank, and you will stumble upon Kor Panich, which has been serving up khao niaow mamuang (sticky rice and mangoes) to a legion of followers since 1932! This small family business uses khao niaow keo nguu (snake fang sticky rice), a premium-grade sticky rice, special for sweets, along with oak rong mangoes, the most expensive and sweet mangoes in the kingdom, so it is no wonder that Kor Panich has such a reputation.

Across the street is a small soi called Praeng Phutorn, and in this tranquil cul de sac full of shophouses are many specialty eateries. The most famed of these is Chote Chitr, a hole in the wall that has been perfecting its recipes for 100 years, as the owner’s grandmother worked as a palace chef in the ancient

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royal courts! Chote Chitr has been put on the world food map by a New York Times food critic, and is now a bit overcrowded with guidebook-clutching tourists, but they are still noted for their unique mee krob noodles and pla chon snakehead fish with mango sauce.

If you are feeling thirsty, back on Mahannop Road, tucked into a small lane, the Lollipop bar, a cute Thai house turned into a retro-style pub, has been taken over by new management and is no longer in vogue, but still makes for a quiet place to sit and sip and reflect on the fact that you are actually in Bangkok.

These spots are just a fraction of fascinating Sao Ching Cha. Barring a taxi ride, the best way to get to Sao Ching Cha is to take Bus number 2 or 511 from Sukhumvit over to Democracy Monument, near Khao San Road, and get off at Tanao Road and walk south, or else take the BTS to Ratchathewi and taxi from there. Many of the smaller specialty eateries close by 7-8 p.m.

Dave Stamboulis is a freelance photographer and travel writer based in Bangkok. He is the author of Odysseus’ Last Stand, which received the Silver Medal Book of the Year award from the Society of American Travel Writers. He can be contacted at pedallerdave@hotmail.com.

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BANGKOK TRADER

Toe vs. Doctor

or How (Not) to Spend a Holiday in Bangkok

By Ronald Estrada

Note: Not my actual digit – I didn’t take a picture of it while it was pointing to the sky, as I was not in the mood to do so then.

(This was found from the interwebs of someone else who must also have problems with gravity.)

Holidays are for fun, right? After all, when we get a holiday in Bangkok, what do we do? Some go out of town, others to their favorite watering holes. There’s always fun to be had or found in Bangkok. Of course, sometimes we plan on partying only to find that it is a ‘dry’ holiday. Ever have this happen to you?

That’s when it is time for a movie, a good book, exercise, and some coffee.

This was my plan on a recent dry holiday, but how often do things go according to plan? Even in Camelot, it rains sometimes!

My dry holiday started out great. Off to a good long jog early in the morning and then to my favorite coffee shop for a cup of mud. As usual, it was a perfect day in Bangkok – blue sky and hot as hell. There is something to be said about consistency, just not sure what. I should have stayed for a second cup of coffee, but instead I decided to take a shortcut home. This route was quick and easy, except for one low gate, which I had leaped over many times before.

Well, I walked up to it, put my hand on it, and did a simple spring over the gate, but the damn gate moved (I’m certain). This destroyed my leap, and I ended up landing on the gate in some weird manner. Of course, people were watching, and my pride was hurt. Sucking it up like a man, off I limped, trying not to show extreme pain in my face. We have all done this before, trying to save some pride and some face while anguishing in pain and shame. Yes, I should have stayed for another cup of coffee.

I hobbled on home, afraid to take off my left shoe. God, my foot hurt. For once, there were no motorbikes or taxis, and I sure couldn’t ride the nearest dog. I could either crawl or walk. I chose to limp. What a slow, agonizing trip home I had. Upon arriving home, I let my girlfriend remove my shoe. One look and she said, “Your toe is pointing up to the sky.” What a scary sight. Yep, I sure had done a job on that toe, and I really, really hate anyone touching my toes. Off

to the hospital we went. All the time, I kept thinking about the solution to this problem – either cut off the toe or pull it into position. Which would you choose?

Do we really need 5 toes?

We arrived at this fancy, English-speaking expat/medical tourism hospital. My girlfriend took one look around and said, “This will be expensive.” I thought maybe so too, but I really wanted to understand what they were saying about my ugly toe. I value my toes, even the ugly ones. The orthopedic surgeon took one look at my toe and grabbed it. I suspect my blood pressure doubled at this point. I really began debating: Lose the toe or fix it? He brought in a big needle with some deadener. I thought, “Thank goodness. Maybe it won’t hurt.” After the shot, he grabbed the toe and started yanking it into place. God help me, where is the rawhide to chew on? Again and again, yank, yank, yank. What is his problem? Didn’t he learn how to pull a toe into position? I bet they know how to do this in a ‘real’ Thai hospital. Then he stopped and said that he could not yank it back into the proper position. What?! Come to find out that the tendon was jammed and would not allow the toe to be properly reset. Now what?

By now, I was ready to donate the toe to Thailand; hell, anyone.

“Please do something,” I said. He looks at me with a straight face and says that now we must operate on my little ugly deformed toe. Oh God, this is getting complicated (all the time thinking that I will never jump that gate again, better yet, can I just do it again? Promise, I will be good, eat an apple a day, not eat candy, not get mao, behave myself in Bangkok, etc. Please just one more chance, I will behave.). “Okay,” I said. “Just cut the toe in your office, and get it over with.” “No, no,” he said. “We must put you in the regular operating room (even if it is ‘just’ your little ugly toe, I’m sure he continued in thought).” Will this nightmare ever end?

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BANGKOK TRADER

My six million dollar US$750 toe.

Two hours later, and I am in the operating room; however, I felt like I was in the Arctic instead of Bangkok. It was as cold as hell (or the Arctic, as I said) in that room, not even a germ could live. Fortunately, they covered me with several blankets and even put a heater on me – it was pretty cool (or warm, that is). And I felt like I was being crucified. While lying on the operating table in my blue scrubs, both arms were outstretched – one with a blood pressure monitor, the other with a pulse indicator. I even had my own entourage – two surgeons and two nurses. All this, just for one ugly toe.

They were operating as far south on me as you can go. Fortunately, they did a great job of deadening my toe, and the next thing you know, they were done. They did the cut, repaired the tendon, repositioned the toe, stitched it, and taped it to the next toe. Success, I still had all my toes, and for now, the pain was gone.

Now for the really bad news: I asked the surgeon how soon before I could start running? I thought maybe a few days (how naïve). Oh no, not my luck today; he said at least four weeks. This was the deathblow, for sure. Had I just given up my toe, it would have been only two weeks. Had I made the wrong decision? Now I am walking around home like a cripple, with a swollen foot, and going nowhere fast (or slow).

Total bill for this misadventure was US$750. My girlfriend was horrified, saying that it would have cost almost nothing in the provinces or in a ‘true’ Thai hospital. I told my son, who is a doctor, this story and the related cost. He told me that in America it would have cost at least US$8,000. Wow, what a difference.

I guess I am lucky that I messed up my toe in Bangkok… I saved money this way! And when I told my daughter, she told me that “you are no spring chicken anymore and that you should just plain act your age.” No, not me. I still think that I am faster than a speeding bullet, able to leap buildings in a single bound, and able to jump over gates with ease. If I am lucky, I will never grow up, even if (and when) I grow old.

I sincerely hope that your last dry holiday was better than mine. Maybe I should stick to drinking? They say, “No pain, no gain.” Does this apply to toes too?

Since moving to Bangkok, I have learned a few things. Don’t pretend to be Superman, watch jumping over gates, watch the motorbikes even if you are on a sidewalk, watch the dogs even when they are sleeping, watch the ladyboys if you can identify them, pay less if you don’t care whether you understand what the doctors are saying, always walk in Bangkok like you are from the country, buy alcohol in advance for the dry holidays. Remember, even a bad day in Bangkok is better than most good days anywhere else!

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BANGKOK TRADER

A Greek at the Court of Siam

By Voicu Mihnea Simandan

From a structural point of view, Falcon: At the Court of Siam by American author John Hoskin is an interesting experiment. The book begins with an unfinished prologue (which intends to keep the reader in suspense) and ends with an epilogue that tells the reader how the prologue ended. For those with some knowledge of Siamese history, there’s no secret as to what happened to Constantine Phaulkon, the Greek who became a high-ranking minister at the court of the Siamese King Narai – he was betrayed and met a violent end.

But apart from the prologue and the epilogue, John Hoskin’s true experiment is the rest of the book, written in very short chapters that alternate between the omniscient point of view and the first person narrative. The first few chapters are of adequate length and give the readers basic information about Phaulkon’s place of birth and his adventures before he reached Siam. But, as the narrative progresses, the chapters become shorter and shorter, only to culminate in diary-like entries no longer than half a page.

Such a structure requires a brisk style of writing, but the language and rhythm of the story does sound slightly archaic with an overemphasis on ‘important’ terms, such as ‘Honor’, ‘Valor’, ‘Enterprise’ (all spelled with capital letters). Unfortunately, the very short chapters and the author’s insistence on staying true to the actual historical events make Falcon: At the Court of Siam a novel that reads more like a simplified history book. Plus, there is little towards character development, and the readers are never sure if they sympathize with Phaulkon or if they believe his betrayal and violent death served him just right.

“Constantine Phaulkon was a man of action” who was born in a Greek family of modest means on the Ionian island of Cephalonia. As a boy, he was known

by the name Constantine Gerakis, but as he advanced to the highest positions at the court of King Narai in Ayutthaya, he was also called Lord Wichayen, ‘The King’s Favorite’, Monseigneur Constantine, or simply Phaulkon the Greek. The word ‘falcon’ used in the title of the book comes from his original Greek name, Geraki, which means falcon.

From a very early age, Constantine felt he did not belong in his parents’ inn, but rather in one of the ships anchored at the port of Argostoli, where he used to spend his free time, gazing at the far sea: “A fire burned fiercely within him.”

One day in 1658, at the age of eleven, Constantine runs away from home and becomes a cabin boy on a ship sailing for London.

Just like he did for the rest of his life, he rose from his initial humble position as a cabin boy to that of an assistant gunner. He saw some action against the Dutch on the ship of the Duke of Bavaria and was afterwards taken to India. “It was here that he became known as Phaulkon, when the ship’s officers anglicized his family name Gerakis.” Constantly on the move and on the lookout for an opportunity to make his fame, Phaulkon boarded a ship heading to Bantam, a European trading station in Java, as an ordinary seaman. Here, he became a clerk with the English East India Company, and after saving their factory from flames, he received a reward of 1,000 crowns.

Now, for the first time in his life, Phaulkon had the means to take matters in his own hands and thus boarded a ship heading to Siam, “where he intended to enter trade on his own account.” His success in Siam was also due to the fact that King Narai’s policies towards foreigners were quite relaxed and, soon enough, he was able to secure good profits from trading with Sumatra and Japan.

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Ever since King Narai ascended to the throne in 1656, the king recognized the importance of trading with the foreigners and welcomed the extra income that it brought to the Siamese court. Also benefitting from a period of peace from the wars with the Burmese, Siam became “like a courtesan who chooses to remain her own mistress” and was thus able to dictate its own foreign and economical policies. Thus, if anyone wished to sell or export goods in Siam, they needed to go though the offices of the king, while bypassing the royal monopoly was punishable with death by beheading.

Because of his fluency in both Thai and French, Phaulkon was instrumental in organizing the Siamese missions sent to Europe and receiving the French missions at Narai’s court. The highlight of Siam foreign policy was undoubtedly the French mission that arrived in Ayutthaya in 1673 with letters from Pope Clement IX and King Louis XIV of France. Of course, their main objective was to convert the Siamese king to Catholicism, something they never succeeded at, no matter how influential Phaulkon was as the highest-ranking minister at the court.

The action of Falcon: At the Court of Siam alternates between the official Siamese capital Ayutthaya; Louvo (as the French called Lopburi), where the king had built a palace; and in Bangkok later in the novel, where the French concession, with some six hundred soldiers, was stationed. Louvo remained the king’s favorite place, and it was here in 1685 that he observed a total lunar eclipse with the French Jesuit missionaries.

John Hoskin describes Phaulkon as “a man of medium height, with straight black hair and handsome rounded features,” just as he was depicted in a 17th-

JUNE 2012 - 11

century print while standing proudly in the foreground and with an elephant and two helpers in the background. Phaulkon lived a life no other foreigner has lived since then at the Siamese court, but his closeness to the king was also to become his death warrant. While King Narai was terminally ill, the Falcon at the court of Siam was rounded up together with his supporters and murdered at the orders of Narai’s foster brother who became the next king of Siam in June 1688.

Today, the ruins and restored parts of Phra Narai Ratchanivet Palace can be found near the center of Lopburi. The site also hosts the Somdet Phra Narai National Museum, where curators look after over 1,800 items of ancient artifacts that date from the reign of King Narai and the following Siamese monarchs who used the palace as their accommodation. Every February, on the palace grounds, the local administration organizes King Narai the Great Fair, a festival that displays the region’s traditional costumes, food, crafts, and sword- and stick-fighting techniques.

The historic city of Lopburi is situated about 150 kilometers northeast of Bangkok. Air-con buses and vans leave hourly from Mo Chit and Victory Monument respectively. The trip lasts two or three hours, depending on the traffic in Bangkok, and it costs just over 100 baht. For more information about Lopburi, go to the province’s official website at www.lopburi.go.th (Thai-language only).

Voicu Mihnea Simandan is a Romanian writer who has been a member of the Bangkok Writers’ Guild since 2008. He can be contacted at mihnea_voicu@yahoo.com.

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Tel: 085 048 3839 (C) CONDO FOR SALE / RENT – Pattaya. New 45sqm studio (building just completed).

Located Cozy Beach Pratumnak Hill in prestigious area of Pattaya. 200m to beach. Close to shops, bars, restuarants.

Fully Furnished, A/c, kitchen, Oven hob, microwave. Balcony overlooking swimming pool. Includes sauna, pool bar, restuarant, gym, library, rooftop garden, concierge facilities, 24hr security, cctv, underground parking. TV, internet, telephone. Price only 2.5m Baht or 12,000b month rent. Contact Nick 0800959002, email nickgreen3@hotmail.com Visit: www.emerald-palace.com (D) I TEACH IGCSE, AS & A level English Language, IGCSE English as a Second Language, IELTS, TOEIC, TOEFL & BULATS. I have a Masters Degree in International Teaching, a Ministry of Education Teaching Licence and a Clearance Certificate from the Royal Thai Police. These documents are available for you to check. I have taught English in international schools for 11 years & I have 27 years experience teaching in Thailand. Contact Mr. Peter at kwlc24@hotmail.com (D) VIOLIN AND VIOLA LESSONS – experienced musician/teacher from USA with Master Degree. Violin students all ages, abilities, beginners to advanced, all those who dream about learning how to play violin and enjoy music! Preparation for entrance examinations to music schools, colleges in Thailand, Europe, America; scholarship auditions, ABRSM, IGCSE, A-level exams etc. Lessons in English, German, Italian, Russian at beautiful studio near Rama 9. Please e-mail Mariam: mkosashvili@hotmail.com, text or call for details! Tel: 0814808573 (C) HIGHLY QUALIFIED English instructor – I have a BA in Education and three teaching licenses. My accent is extremely neutral and Middle American. I have thirty-five years of teaching experience in the USA and in Thailand. Arizona State University, Chulalongkorn University, and Kasetsart University are some of the educational institutions for which I have worked. My specialities are writing, test preparation, Conversational English, and Business English. 08-921-018-08. iron_bamboo1253@yahoo.com (E)

16 - JUNE 2012

BANGKOK TRADER

MARKETPLACE BE PART OF OUR NEW WEIGHT Loss Challenge at Sukhumvit! 12 weeks program to lose weight. Group to support.

Personalized coaching. Meal Plan. Fun ! Call Monthita: 0879 072 575 wlcbkk@ gmail.com Part time job We are looking for people who want to be their own boss. Training provided. International business. www.wfhweb.com/arob (B)

EKKAMAI CONDO FOR SALE - 150 sqm. 2 bedrooms, 1 en suite plus 1 study / child’s bedroom, maids room and utility room, living / dining room, Italian fitted kitchen. A light airy apartment with a good through breeze all year round. 3 balconies and clear views due east. Nice pool, fully fitted gym. BTS 10 mins, close to International Schools, restaurants and shops. THB 8.95M peter@varline.com or PRIVATE TEACHER: Experienced, 081-850-6985 (Nan) (F) professional and one who is already teaching at one of Bangkok’s most exclusive SANDEE THAI LANGUAGE School – prep companies. TOEFL, IELTS, SAT, Price 18,000 THB. Get 1-year ED Visa. @ GRE, GMAT, or Conversational / Business RCA, Bangkok. Tel:084 388-2832. www.

English. Degree in Computational Physics sandee.ac.th (B) from Harvey Mudd College, one of the top engineering schools in the US. 1000 THB/ APARTMENT FOR RENT – I have hr. I’m not the cheapest, for a reason. Bad an apartment available for occupancy grammar and irregular accents are nearly immediately. Apartment details are as impossible to undo, sound like a native follows: Duplex penthouse, 31st Floor (A instead. Contact me at private.tutor. unit), 490 sqm, 5 bedrooms with on suite.

Newly renovated, Location: Sukhumvit bangkok@gmail.com (D) 24, Apartment: President Park (Ebony SEXY BKK COUPLE (man farang,lady Tower). Price: 120,000 Bht negotiable. thai) like to meet sweet lady! Let’s chat! Facilities: Tennis courts, health club, 3 sexybkkcouple@hotmail.com (C) swimming pools, Children play area and DUPLEX IN CONDO compound – for rent squash court. To view please call Mr. Raj, and sale - Sukhumvit 31. 195 sq.m. 3 bed, 0819323042. (C) 3 bath with a carpark. Services included: 25 m. outdoor pool, tuk tuk, gym, kids playground, large garden. Rent at 60,000 bht. Come and see for yourself, seehttp:// www.dashomeonsukhumvit.com for more details. Contact 081 5646077. (D)

FED UP with the excess weight? I have no miracle cure but I can help you address your self-talk, self-image, motivation, habits, and much more that you probably don’t even know yet! Hypnosis will make a world of difference. Call 0882270553 or ONE-ON-ONE ENGLISH tuition in the see www.hypno-therapy.net (Tom) (D) comfort and convenience of your home. All CONDO FOR RENT: pak lane jomtien ages and all levels welcome. All aspects beach 35 sqm studio room closly private of the language covered--grammar, swimming pool, fully furnished at1st floor. vocabulary, usage, comprehension, and contact k.phen call 087-8308044 or e-mail speaking. Native speaker from California piccy_audit@hotmail.com (D) and graduate of San Francisco State University. 10+ years of experience DELUX-CONDO for sale @ Sukhumvit offering private lessons in Bangkok. Soi 13, three Min. to Nana BTS. 36 sqm.

Professional and reliable. Reasonable completely furnished with all electric rates. Let’s work together to improve your appliances, washer-dryer kitchen etc.

English and make it more effective. David Large pool & Gym. Like new. Baht 02-259-5655 #304 (early morning/late 3.400.000 sold by owner. Tel: 084-7264night) or bangtowndjs@hotmail.com (E) 469. Email: paragon00@gmx.de (B)

2 BR SUKHUMVIT 11 for rent 125 sq.m. corner units 48,000 baht. Facilities are excellent and really includes what anybody could need, such as: swimming pool with surrounding sun deck, gym, sauna, squash court, parking,. Also all common areas has Wi-Fi and etc. Call 0881-399384 (F) ENGLISH TEACHER from Canada in Bangkok, accepting students! englishteacher@live.ca (D) BADMINTON RACQUETS FOR SALE, 1 x FBT special edition very good condition with cover 250 baht. 1 x Click racquet good condition 150 baht both sell 400 baht ph 0828128226 (E) MOBILE PHONE. Nokia. Sim card plus.

2.500 baht minutes available. True move network. Asking price 2000baht. Call 0891539116 (B) HOUSE FOR SALE! Between Bang Saray and Sattahip, close to Sukhumvit Road, Land 220 sqm, 2 Bedr, 1 Aircon, 2 Bathr, Kitchen, large Terrace and Carport, own well an Watertank, Phoneline and Cable TV. 1,39 Mio. THB. Tel. 0898681718 (engl.), 0850745196 (thai.) (F) LAND FOR RENT and Sale in the north of Thailand; Sukhothai province. To avoid flooding.the land are located in City on main road #101 from Bangkok. Suitable for business or investment. Contact: Owner: 0801776847 (D) 20TH CENTURY history books and biographies in excellent once read condition and reasonably-priced for sale. guide price is 40 p.c. of shop price. please contact N.Barrett nigelinseychelles@ gmail.com 0871053664 (B) SIRI ON 8 ONE BR FF MODERN CONDO for rent @ 33,000 THB/month. Includes king size bed, open plan kitchen, medium size balcony, washing machine and flat screen TV. On the roof is a lovely infinity s style swimming pool plus well equipped gym. To view please phone K. J on 08 7812 6893 (E)

BANGKOK TRADER

AFRAID OF HEIGHT and earthquake!

Here is the answer, the noble remix2 condo for rent-sale. It’s on only the 3rd floor, 65.12 Sq.m., 8,140,000 baht sold by owner. Worry free from height and earthquake with condo located at the heart of Sukumwit 36, facilitate you with the skywalks connect to the BTS Thonglor, pool, fitness room, security system and professional management. Call now 081668-9112 (F)

JUNE 2012 - 17

WHITE SCREEN PHOTO and Cyclorama green screen studios for hire on Sukhumvit 49/6 Bangkok Media Studios offers fully equipped video/photo studios for rent, including dressing rooms. All you need is your photo or video equipment and you’re good to go. Very competitive rates. Check out specs at www.bangkokmediastudios.com Please contact bangkokmediastudios@ gmail.com Tel. 081 267 0125 (F)

CONDO FOR RENT: Baan Suan Petch Condo, 11 th Floor, Sukhumvit 39, 136 sq.m., 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen, living room. Just completed renovation, fully furnished. Facilities: Swimming Pool, Fitness, Parking Lot. Very good location; 5 min walk from BTS – Phrom Phong, NEED A WEBSITE? – We at tobe-website. opposite to the Emporium. Please call com offer different ranges of pricing for all Apiradee 081 122 9605 (F) your website needs. We consist of a group VISITING ACADEMIC seeks summer of freelancers who have your business rental. June-July 2012. Seek Short-term needs in our best interest. Whether its rental/sublet in central Bangkok June-July content writing, printing services, content (perhaps into August). Visiting professor; design or other services. “A real decision no pets, no children and highest references. is measured by the fact that you’ve taken House/condo OK. Near Skytrain preferred. a new action. If there’s no action, you One or two BR. Rent flexible. E mail. haven’t truly decided.” (Tony Robbins). Grumbler6@gmail.com (E) E-mail:yui@tobewebsite.com or Aldo 2-BEAUTIFUL PLOT of land – 153 (0877941183). (C) talangwa (plus 60 ‘wa for free) 1,254,600 CHEAPEST CONDO FOR SALE in baht and 637 talangwa (plus 130 ‘wa for Pattaya. But the best! 63sqm. only 1.78mil. free) 3,509,000 baht. at Kaengkoi Saraburi. excellent furnished with LCD 42’. Fantastic River front and mountain view. “No flood” sea view. 1 min. walk to jomtien beach. just only 1:15 hrs from Bangkok. Ideal for 089-1062240 ask pictures 2purelife@ bungalow or homestay. tel. 081-5569156, 081-5122567 (near a new campus of uni. gmail.com (E) of chula) (D) DESIGNERS OWN HOUSE for sale in Bangkoks green, flood free peninsula SUPER - charge yourself ! See yourself “Bangkachao”. 2-story house 192 sqm, as a more elegant communicator! Does 100 twl land, built 2008. Minimalist NLP (Neuro-Linguistic Programming) Scandinavian style 2 bed, 3 WC, front ring a bell? No matter if you studied / back garden, solar heated water in all it from books or already attended taps, double walls, CCTV. Only 30-40 life seminars or not, you still desire min. to Asoke / Sukhumvit, it’s truly an practicing it, don’t you? Luckily NLP undiscovered oasis in city. See www. has helped millions of people achieve bomancreative.com/house - 10,7 mill baht greater success, increase confidence, by owner. Call 08 3859 3336. (B) relationships and overcome fears! Now A FURNISHED ROOM with Free HS join 4-Free www.Meetup.com/NLPInternet (in Ploenchit Townhouse) for rent Bangkok . Check out the monthly NLP - Bht8,800. It’s located in heart of city. practicing meetings. (F) Size 25 sqm. 5 mins walking from BTS skytrain station & close to embassies COLLECTION of Tibetan Thankas and &expressway, easy to go anywhere you original Indochina oil paintings for sale.Call wish in Bangkok near all famous shopping David, 081 832 7325. (E) malls / supermarkets / fitness. To view the room please call to make an appointment INVESTMENT Opportunity Sukhumvit: a day earlier. Penny: Tel 0894998356 New, unfurnished, double-unit condo for (1030–1230 am). e-mail to pashaporns@ sale situated on the 3rd floor in a prime yahoo.com, benz_ps@hotmail.com (B) corner site. Each unit has a large room,

CLASSIC USED man’s watch by Phillip Charriol. Mother of pearl face with small diamonds on numerals. Baht 9,000 ono. Please email me for picture(s) or appointment to view/buy (Silom) martinrowleya@yahoo.com (D)

STERLING SILVER cigarette box 11x9x3cm hallmarked by royal jeweler Mappin & Webb. Approximately 70 years old. Baht 3,000 ono. Rare antique book “Bangkok Siam” published 1928 by Royal State Railways of Siam. Superb condition.

Baht 4,500 ono. (D)

kitchen, bathroom and balcony, with good quality fittings throughout. This condo presents a good letting opportunity as 1 unit or 2, and is a 10 min. walk from Bang Na BTS with easy expressway access.

Price 1.8 million baht. maxineping@ hotmail.com or 0896626274 (B)

IF YOU ARE BASED in Bangkok and a member of the transgender community we would like to invite you to join The Katoey Connection. This is a non-profit group for socializing. Visit us at: http://members. go-tranz.net/group/TheKatoeyConnection *Note: This is not a sex or dating group.

It is only for meeting new people in our community. (B) I AM A EXPERIENCED professional graphic and book/magazine designer for print and web. I can create a professional looking identity, look, or brand for your business needs. Contact AU. (‘oo’) at au.laphat.rada@gmail.com or call 089 229 4416.(F) CONDOMINIUM for sale. Sukhumvit. High floor. 270 sq mtrs. 4 bedrooms. Own lift.

Stunning city views . Excellent facilities. 2 free, fixed parking spaces. 15 million net.

Call David 081 832 7325. (E) CONDO FOR SALE - Supalai City Home Sukhumvit - 2 bedroom, 1 bathroom, living room / dining room, separate kitchen. 68 square meters. Low rise bldg - 5th Floor corner unit. Three A/C units, hot water, extra elect outlets. Kitchen cabinets, smoke alarms, sprinklers, new paint, curtain rods. Built 2008. 100 meters from Udomsuk BTS. Never flooded.

Photos at: http://bangkok.craigslist.co.th/ reo/2719154159.html. Contact 089-9232615 or 081-754-6885. (B) PORTABLE BABY COT with mattress and mosquito vail from Big C colour red pattern excellent condtion 1000 baht ph 0828128226 (E) BELLY DANCE lessons & perform – Private or group belly dance lessons at your place, your time. I teaches Egyptian and American Cabaret style for Beg, Int and Adv. Also I available to perform at restaurant, private party etc. regularly or temporally. Email:matti0617@gmail.com (Yoko) (E) CAMPBELL CHAMBERS Thai Law Office – professional legal services for tourists and expats by English speaking lawyers, providing legal advices, full services, in conjunction with Campbell Chambers Solicitors of London. 20 years experiences in civil and criminal cases. New company formation – easy, speedy setting up business with one stop services (company registration, tax, accounting, and translation) work permits, visa, immigration, marriage.

Conveyancing lawyer - land and property buying and selling. Hotline: 081-5581394. Tel/Fax: 02-278-1879. Email: law@campbellchambers-thai.com (C)

18 - JUNE 2012

BANGKOK TRADER

MARKETPLACE FAMILY SIZED THREE BEDROOM pet friendly apartment for rent in the Phrom Phong area. There is a renovated island style kitchen, two sets of big balconies, furniture provided (though can come partly or unfurnished to suit); maids quarters, polished solid wooden floor throughout, 40” flat screen TV and more. 55,000 Baht/month! To enquire further please call K. J on 08 7812 6893. (E) THAI LESSONS: for foreign children or adults. 6-year-experienced with foreign students. In-house or coffee shop. time can be arranged. Free trial contact 084119-6661. Or email for more information at: na_ta_nie@yahoo.com (C) RESTAURANT FOR SALE – Srinakarin Supalai condo 1st fl, aposite Novotel Bangna new restaurant. Fully equiped and interior with air, kitchen equipment, kitchen ware, electronics. Can start immediately. Invested B2.5 mill, urgent sale price B1 mill. Sell by owner. English / Thai tel: 081-916-4726 (E) CONDOMINIUM FOR SALE. Mid Sukhumvit. High floor. 270sq mtrs. 4 bedrooms. Own lift. Stunning city views.

Excellent facilities. 2 free fixed parking.

15million baht net. Call David 081 832 7325. Collectibles for sale: Original Indochina oil paintings. Tibetan Tankas.

Victorian silver (small jugs, cigar boxes, cruit set all with silver stamps). Burmese handicrafts and furniture. Call David 081 8327325. (E) CDSANDWICH.COM – Fresh Sandwiches, Salads & Juices made to order. Choose from our extensive menu and order at www.cdsandwich.com or call us on 02 692 40 85. Thonglor, Silom, Ploenchit, Siam, Ratchada, Sathorn, Narathiwat, Ekkamai, Rama 4, HuayKwang, Chitlom, Asoke. Business meetings & special events catered also.

Enjoy your meal. (C)

40,000 BAHT PER MONTH: renovated two Br, plus study fully furnished condo for rent; located in Soi Ekkami within 10/15 minutes walk of the BTS. There is a lovely kitchen, including oven, an open plan living area, plenty of storage, double basin ensuite in master, open views and lots of lighting. No pets thank you. To view please contact K. J on 08 7812 6893 (E)

GET AWAY FROM THE HEAT without breaking the bank – Just 3 hours south of Bangkok and 300 baht by minibus from Victory monument to our little resort and feel like your a million miles away from it all. Nestled amongst coconut groves and next to the mountains of Sam Roy Yod national park and lovely peaceful beach; Blue Beach Resort makes for the perfect escape. Rates CONDO FOR SALE@LUMPINI view start at 950 baht including breakfast. (thailand cultural centre) – 2 bedrooms with www.bluebeachresort.net bluebeachresort air conditioner, living room, 2 bathrooms, @gmail.com 0831558948 (F) electric water heater for shower, wardrobe, TRANSLATIONS AND refrigerator, washing machine, build-in, SPANISH INTERPRETATION – Spanish native parking, convineient stores........please speaker offers translation and interpretation contact jean tel. no. 080-064 5665. (C) services. Websites, contracts, official CASA CITY TOWN HOUSE – 3 stories, letters, manuals etc. Both for private 3 bedrooms,3 bathrooms, 2 living rooms, companies and official institutions.

1 dining and kitchen. 2 car park with air Thai translations and Accounting also condition in every rooms. Ramkamhaeng offered. Call 0870470590 or email: 76 Rd. Close to Big C and Home Pro. on Spanish_Consultant@yahoo.es (F) the main road. Sale 6 Million. Mobile 086- IMMO DE BANGKOK Co.,Ltd – 537-2557 Naree (E) Real estate Agency. Welcome to RENT NEW 2 BEDS condo at BLOCS 77 (Onnut BTS) – For rent in brand new condominium, located at Onnut area. 2 beds, 65 sqm, high floor, unblocked view, rental price: 28000 /Month. more details, please call khun Kay: 081-825 4363 or visit our website: www.immodebangkok.com (D) FRESH SANDWICHES, salads and juices made to order. Make your choice through our large menu at www.cdsandwich.com, pass your order online or call us at 02 692 40 85. Enjoy your meal. (D) TEACHING THAI – We are the school where is teaching Thai to foreigners. We provide conversation, reading, and writing, other advanced level. Our instructors are highly qualified native speakers of Thai with post graduate degrees and many years of experience in teaching their Thai language as a foreign language. Please feel free to contact us at Phone: 088-6251133 (English), 087-9342189(Japanese) E-mail: easythai39@gmail.com (F)

Immodebangkok. If you want to sell, rent or buy condominium, we can help you to reach your objective, just visit to our website: www.immodebangkok.com or call us: Khun Kay: +66 081- 825 4363 (D)

FULLY FURNISHED 2 BEDROOM & 2 bathroom 100 sq m condo for rent or sale in Raintree Villa 5th floor tower B, Sukhumvit soi 53 with 32 inch LCD, video, brand new frig, washing machine, laminate and spotlights in entire unit. Rent 35 K, selling price 7.5 M immediately available please contact Daniel (08) 23236883 or e-mail danvde@gmail.com (D) ITALIAN GRADUATE NATIVE language teacher, and translator-into english, and viceversa, consulting - documents, 12 years in Thailand can speak thai, gives lessons to adult and kids,at home, bars, offices. honest prices, 3 professional books, conversation, grammar and vocabulary totally free. contact me here: 0806079635. email: srikrsna108@ yahoo.it or srirama30@hotmail.com. Ciao Mr Angelo (E)

BANGKOK TRADER

AVIATION BOOKS FOR SALE. Over 1,700 books on aviation, modelling, espionage and code breaking offered as one lot with many rare and expensive books. Any enthusiast or modeller would be overjoyed to own this book collection, which has been built-up over 25 years.

Price 300,000 baht Interested? Contact Glenn on 025033710, e-mail maxineping@ hotmail.com (E) ACCOUNTING AND TAX SERVICES SMEs registered in Thailand looking to Certified Public Accountant for prepare and submit,The Financial statement and tax return to Thai Government agencies. Please contact K.Yuth at yandkconsult@gmail.com. (B) FREE ONLINE Nutritional Coaching!

Eat well, lose weight, Gain weight, Sport… Personalized coaching, Group to support, Nutritional information.

Recognition! www.ichange.com/user/ wellness3366 (D)

JUNE 2012 - 19

FOR SALE RESTAURANT off of Rama IV. seats 120 people, 230sqm huge outdoor seating area with view to swimming pool. Located in an apartment /hotel building. serving international food with room service, outside pizza delivery and banquet/catering service. excellent loyal customer base. 2.5 MB incl. company, stocks and assets. Rental 30K/ mo. Contact Denis at 081 722 3505 or email sunsetrunner2010@yahoo.com. (C) D-Wine Intertrade is the distributor of Billabong de-alcoholised wines from Australia. We have preserved the natural wine aromas and ambience better than ever. Billabong is selected from a range of quality premium wine, processed in a unique fashion to remove only alcohol, nothing more, nothing less. It contains alcohol less than 0.5%. Perfect choice for wine-lover and health-caretaker. For more info, please visit d-wine.weebly.com or call 087-5535124, 089-1859515 (E)

Room for Rent at Rain Tree Villa, Sukhumvit 53 – 33 sq.m., Studio room, Fully Furnished, Swimming pool, Fitness and Sauna.

Convenient Location; Thong Lor BTS, Top’s Villa Market. Please call “Da” 081LUXURY CONDO for rent – Ivy Thonglor. 929-1681 – da@noonmon.com (B) Brand new furnished apartment, 1 bed room, 43 sq/m, corner unit, 21st floor, HUA HIN MARRAKESH condos for rent @ equipped kitchen, Jacuzzi and shower, HuaHinstay.com! 1,2 & 3 bedroom units for 42” TV, DVD, cable TV, internet Wi Fi, daily, weekly or monthly rental, with prices gym, children playground, swimming pool, as low as THB 1,XXX per day! Beautiful, fully-furnished locates between Thonglor 21 - Thonglor individually-designed, 23. 38000 bath per month. Ready to rooms with housekeeping. Check site or move in, Supakar Nanni, contact n. tel. email info@huahinstay.com. (C) 0818688466 (D) TNGLISH TEACHING books aids and SEEKING JOINT venture to luanch an household goods – Large selection (from Executive Residence project in Sukhothai basic English to Intermediate level) of province. No flood areas are located on English teaching books and teaching Asia Road No.101 which is 36 kilometers aids, lesson plans including some books from City/Muang district and 12 kilometers on overhead transparency film. corporate from Bangkok Airways boutique airport. training examples and material. Small Easy to access north and northeast Toshiba refrigerator- 1500bht, Sony direction. Contact: phachuthai@yahoo. television 17 inch- 2000bht, Brother printer com 08 0177 6847 (D) IS THERE ANYONE wants to learn Japanese pleasantly? Please E-mail me and let’s talk about details of your lesson. poteto6176@gmail.com (D)

MFC3220C Colour prints faxes copies and scans- 2500bht, computer desk with side shelves either side- 1500bht. Picture can be supplied along with price. Contact 0859574764 or corptrainplus@aol.com (D)

1 BED 1 BATH in Omni Tower Sukhumvit Soi 4 well furnished incl 42” flat screen TV 27,000 Baht per month 1 year lease. gilescullingford@hotmail.com 0899 862 315 (B) HOUSE FOR SALE – On-Nut soi 44. Flood free area. Suwanaphum 15 min, downtown 15min, 3bedr, 3bathr, separate maid rm, big living rm, 5air, 2car parking, big garden, 2fl house. Markett price B9 mill, urgent sale price B7.5 mill. Sell by owner. English / Thai tel : 081-916-4726 (E)

FINE ART RESIDENCE SPECIAL opening promotion – newly built! Stylish living apartment for better life and budgeted! Well designed with Mitsubishi AC, Stiebel Eltron water heater, American Standard bathroom set, Free Wifi 20MB, Private laundry room, Free cable TV, telephone, CCTV, key card, near MRT Huaikwang, Central rama9, Big C, Behind University of Thai Commerce. Special Rate: 5,000 and 5,200 baht only. Minimum 3-month lease. 24 Prachasongkroh 33, Dindaeng Bangkok Call now 081-8175920 Map/Picture www.facebook. com/FineArtResidence (F) HIGH FLOOR CONDO FOR SALE. 27th floor, 56sqm, one bedroom, living room, kitchen, 2 bathrooms (one en-suite with dressing room), large balcony with fantastic city views over Bangkok. Complete Condo on Rajaprarop is an iconic Prinsiri building in the Victory Monument area. Facilities include two swimming pools, two gyms, mini-mart, laundry and 24 hour security.

This condo comes with one secure parking space. Asking just 4.7m Baht. Contact 089 458 1616 (F) TWO FLOOR TOWN house located off ratchada sub soi by huay kwang subway station. partly furnished,3 bed rooms, two bathrooms, no animals allowed. one year rent contract. if interested please contact email address: onchuda.liu@gmail.com (D) TOWNHOUSE Sukhumvit Soi 15 fully modernized & furnished. 5bed 6bath 7aircon modern kitchen, gated subsoi opposite NIST main entrance. THB 42500 per month Phone Bua 0879172056 (B) BECOME YOUR OWN life-coach today.

“Your inner strength is your outer foundation” Allan Rufus. My work is about self discovery, and then using this knowledge to enhance my life in personal development. Every day is a learning curve. The wisdom is using this knowledge wisely to benifit yourself and eventually others. What good is knowledge if we don’t use it! What awareness can you bring in your life today? More information www.allanrufus.org (D)

VOLVO XC70 2003 model dark green exterior, brown leather seats. 128,000 km full Volvo service record 700,000 Baht.

Phairoj 081806 5087 (D) TEACHCHA CENTER. Teaching Thai and English by experienced and qualified LEARN TO COOK AUTHENTIC THAI teachers. Provide private, group lessons food at Tongue Thai Cooking School. and Online. With focus on understanding English and Thai speaking staff will guide and applying our curriculum in daily you through fun, easy steps to create your life, arrange concepts and ideas in well own 3 or 4 course meal in just one lesson! structured courses. Including various Our school is conveniently located in interesting activities. Special Price!! Free Silom and within walking distance form the trial lesson. Free program and worksheets Oriental hotel. Group and corporate team online. Contact KruTisha. Tisha.tutor@ building classes available. Contact us for gmail.com 0870853455, 022825832 www. more information Eng-0811072211/ Thai- teachcha.com Please visit our website, 026309918-9, www.tonguethaicooking. click like and send email for asking free com email-witchwine.bkk@gmail.com (F) material online. (F)

20 - JUNE 2012

BANGKOK TRADER

MARKETPLACE VIP CONDO PATTAYA 48 SQM STUDIO – Fully Furnish Sea view 10th Fl. Room A 1009 swimming pool, 2 tennis court and jogging track. Rent 9,000 per month. Sale 1.65 Million. Mobile 086-537-2557 Khun Naree (E) TWO FLOOR TOWN HOUSE located at Pracharajbumpen 20, Ratchada, about 900 meters to Huay Kwang subway station.

Partly furnished, 3 bed 2 bath, no animal allowed. 15,000.- baht per month, one year contract (negotiable). (D) PHAHOLYOTHIN PARK CONDO FOR SALE – low rise condo in Phaholyothin soi 14, 2nd floor, 90 sqm., 2 beds 2 baths, 2 parking, large green area, tennis court, near BTS Aree n Sapankwai, near Villa Aree n Big C, near Paolo Hospital, access from Phaholyothin 2, 8 and 14, Indramara soi 4 and Vibahvadee Rd. Sell at 5,000,000 bt only. Please contact : Nat 083-8435888 (C) APARTMENT FOR SALE: Silom area., 141 sqw., 7 stories, 16 units (70-135 sqm., 1 and 2 bedrooms), fully furnished, jaguzzi, sauna, rooftop garden, 24 hours security and CCTV, walking distance to BTS Surasak, near Top supermarket, expressway, schools, and Jewelry trade center, can access from Silom Rd, Surawongse Rd, and Mahesak Rd. Please contact: Nat 083-8435888 (C) RESTAURANT FOR SALE – Srinakarin Supalai condo 1st fl, aposite Novotel Bangna new restaurant. Fully equiped and interior with air, kitchen equipment, kitchen ware, electronics.

Can start immediately. Invested B2.5 mill, urgent sale price B1 mill. Sell by owner. English / Thai tel: 081-916-4726 (E)

PRIVATE THAI / CHINESE/ FRENCH LESSON & Interpreter for business, work, legal, military, education, and staying in Thailand with free sheets in Bangkok. Services are designed for individual or group request with effective method by native speakers or experienced team. 400 – 700 THB / hour.

Translation: from 3-17 THB / word. For more information and other services please contact Christal: 081-791-5621 or Email language_wisdom_network@hotmail.com (C) CONDO THE LINK #4 by BTS On Nut (Sukumwit 50) Condo 41 sqm, 1bed 1 bath. On the sixth floor. Tesco-Lotus located across the street. Fully furnish and brand new. Condo has swimming pool, fitness room,security system, public laundry room. 15,000.baht per month. One year contract (negotiable). (D) PANASIN PLACE HOME OFFICE BLD. – 29 Ramkhamhaeng Soi 24/3, Ramkhamhaeng Rd. Huamark, Bangkapi. 3 stories with air condition in every rooms. 3 bedrooms, and 3 bathrooms, 2 car park and a large parking lot. Lease 17 years and 8 months 1.6 Million. Rent 23,000 per month. Mobile 086-537-2557 Naree (E) EASY STEAMER. A wide range of garment steamers for personal and professional use. No more ironing board. Tel: 0-2309-6043 or 087-900-1099. Fax: 0-2309-6052. Email: striwatana@yahoo. com. Web Site: www.brandexdirectory.com/kp (F) 20TH CENTURY history and biography 60 books for sale in prices, once read new condition 60 pc discount off cover price.

Contact nigelinseychelles@gmail.com (D)

Construction Deal Signed for Amari Residences Pattaya Development The Nova Group Plc held a contract-signing ceremony on May 14th, with LockBUILD Group to be the construction company for the new Amari Residence Pattaya project to be developed on an area of approximately 2 rai on Pratumnak Hill. Present at the signing were (from left): Mr. Kobi Elbaz, Project Partner; Mr. Rony Fineman, President of The Nova Group; Khun Nuttapong Intuputi, Managing Director of Lock-BUILD Group; Khun Vutikorn Kamolchote, Director Lock-BUILD Group.

Piling work has already started, and Amari Residences is scheduled to be completed by the last quarter of 2014. The project will consist of a 35-storey building with 278 units and will be managed by Amari. 70% of the units have already been sold.

Rony added, “We are very pleased to have Lock-BUILD Group as our construction company. I have seen many of their completed projects; they build with passion, speed and attention to detail. I am sure that Amari Residences will be a building we can all be very proud of.”

BANGKOK TRADER

JUNE 2012 - 21

Bangkok Trader’s Networking Night Ladies Night Launch Party

Meets

We came, we ate and drank, and we conquered... okay, maybe that’s stretching things a little too much, but we can say that we had a great time at our last party at Australian Pub on Sukhumvit 11, thanks to all the usuals – our most generous hosts at the Australian, the top notch staff that brought us everything to quench our thirsts and fill our bellies, and at the top of the list... you! It was the perfect crowd for a May Day holiday, and I think we can say from the pix here, that a good time was had (well, at least by us here at BT!).

Please check out our Facebook pages – either http://goo.gl/UBsgo or http://goo.gl/EnNbR – for all the details on all of our parties this year... or just to see a lot more great pix of the fun we had at Australian Pub. Just go to www.facebook.com and then search for “Bangkok Trader”. Add yourself on to get a monthly invitation to the parties. We’ll see you at the next one!

22 - JUNE 2012

BANGKOK TRADER

Isaan Eats:

A Beginner’s Guide

By Dave Stamboulis

While northern and southern Thai cooking might be a bit of a mystery to even the expat, northeastern Isaan cuisine needs little introduction. The most common food found in Bangkok, as well as the rest of the country, Isaan cooking is based on spice and simplicity, and while the joints that it is served in may lack in elegance, they are well made up for by what comes out of the kitchen.

The climate of Isaan is extreme, very hot and dry, as well as very wet in the monsoon, and the flat arid countryside has been prone to a history of floods and droughts. Rice and other crops have traditionally not grown consistently here, not to mention a lack of trees, and thus wood for cooking, and these factors have molded the fare that has come out of Isaan kitchens.

Isaan cuisine features lots of herbs and spices, and dishes that can be prepared quickly, either without cooking or else grilled or fried with minimal fuss.

Isaan food is the type that everyone wants to take on a picnic, as it holds up well, is cheap, filling, and not too messy.

The backbone of Isaan food, which is more or less the same as what one finds in Laos, features som tam papaya salad, made with fresh shredded green papaya, lime juice, shallots, tomatoes, dried shrimp, palm sugar, and plenty of fiery chilies. Most visitors stick to the tam Thai version, as the tam puu and tam pla variations use small crabs pounded in, pinchers and all, or fermented mud fish, which is an extremely pungent and acquired taste that isn’t for everyone.

Som tam is usually accompanied by mouthwatering gai yang grilled chicken, along with maybe a larb or two. Larb are meat or fish salads where the meat is mixed with lemongrass, kaffir lime, chili, mint leaves, and roasted rice powder to create an exquisite burst of flavors. Some of the best include larb phet duck salad and larb pla duk catfish salad.

All of these dishes are eaten with copious amounts of khao niaow sticky rice, usually served in a small bamboo basket and eaten with the fingers. Drinking also has a high place at the Isaan table, and at most Isaan restaurants and stalls, you will see bottles of whiskey or beer being shared amongst friends.

Other specialties include larb muu tawt fried pork balls (which resemble small hamburger patties or falafel made with fried holy basil and other delicious spices), as well as sai krok, a pork sausage that is soured by mixing the meat with sticky rice, which acts as a catalyst for fermentation. Plenty of spices, such as coriander, lemongrass, and garlic are added to the sausage giving it an outstanding flavor.

For those who love Japanese sashimi, I recommend indulging in goong che nam pla, which are raw shrimps served with green chilies, lime, and garlic.

The key to this dish is all in the sauce, and the best variations serve the sauce blended up to resemble a green salsa, as opposed to just putting diced garlic and chilies on top of the shrimps.

While Isaan food can be found on virtually every corner in Bangkok, recognizable by the large ceramic mortar and pestle used for making som tam, along with a lineup of grilled chicken breasts and drumsticks, many of these stalls exist just for take home. The ones that have a few tables and chairs are not overly pleasant to sit at during the hot season, so neophytes might want to try some indoor options with fans or air conditioning.

My favorite Isaan places are the silver chair and table establishments, where Formica dĂŠcor is the norm. These places appear to be no frills, but the quality coming out of the kitchen is outstanding, the prices are low, and they are usually packed to the gills night in and night out. Jae Goy is one of these types,

BANGKOK TRADER

located up on Petchaburi just after Soi 14 (BTS SkyTrain to Ratchathewi and walk up to the Petchaburi intersection and turn left).

The other option is for something just slightly more comfortable, and one such place is Baan Som Tam, an indoor eatery near the Surasak BTS, which serves some of the freshest som tam in the city, and where all of the ingredients taste as if they are organic. The sai krok and grilled meats here are some of the best in town, and the prices are cheap. To get here from the BTS, walk west to the Surasak intersection, turn right and go up one block to Srivieng Road and right

JUNE 2012 - 23

down this about 200 meters, just opposite Baan Chiang Restaurant.

Baan Som Tam – 9/1 Srivieng, Surasak. Tel 02 630 3486.

Jae Goy – 362/2-3 Petchaburi Rd, Ratchawithi. Tel 081 818 3625.

Dave Stamboulis is a freelance photographer and travel writer based in Bangkok. He is the author of Odysseus’ Last Stand, which received the Silver Medal Book of the Year award from the Society of American Travel Writers. He can be contacted at pedallerdave@hotmail.com.

24 - JUNE 2012

BANGKOK TRADER

Fencing in Bangkok: At the tip of a sword

By Voicu Mihnea Simandan

Fencing has always been a sporting event closely associated with the military, and thus, it is not surprising that many of the strongest fencing clubs that operate in Thailand are associated with the Thai Navy. Being such a specialized sport, with distinct rules for the different kinds of swords used, fencing isn’t for everyone, and apart from physical fitness, a fencer also needs agility, speed and, above all, a good grasp of sword techniques.

Even though to the untrained eye, fencers at a tournament might seem just like white-clad actors taken straight out of the latest The Three Musketeers movie, there are actually three different weapons used in the sport of fencing: foil, sabre and epée. The foil is a thrusting weapon used by fencers to score on the torso of the opponent, and only touches with the tip are scored.

The sabre is a cutting and thrusting sword that can be used to score on the opponent’s body above the waist. Both the tip and the edges of the blade are allowed to be used during a ‘fight.’ The epée is a heavier thrusting weapon, and although hits can be placed on the entire body, only the tip can be used to score. Depending on the kind of sword used, the fencers need to give the ‘right of way’ to the opponent for an attack or can attack and score simultaneously.

Although fencing in Thailand is not actively covered in the mass media, in the past decade, it has gained momentum due to the story of a very interesting Thai fencer who won bronze medals in the sabre event (both individually and with his team) at the Sydney 2000 Summer Olympic Games. Wiradech Kothny, a 32-year-old Kanchanaburi native stepped on the Olympic podium and received his medals not for Thailand, but Germany, his adopted country.

Once he rose to international fame, he returned to Thailand and has fought

ever since under the Thai national flag. At the 2011 Southeast Asian Games, he brought home bronze at the men’s individual sabre event and is now training and competing alongside two other Thai fencers, in the hope of qualifying for the 2012 London Olympics.

Just like in kendo, a fencer wears a special uniform that is both meant to protect the fencer and help the judges keep accurate scoring. The mask (made of metal for foil and epée; and of strong cotton for sabre) and the gloves are two personal items that you would have to own for yourself, as you will probably sweat profusely in the Thai weather. A fencer also wears a front-zip jacket, special trousers, long cotton socks, and fencing (or sport) shoes. Once you reach a competition level, you’ll need specialized sparring equipment and electronic scoring gear.

The history of fencing can be traced back to Egyptian carvings dating back to 1200 BC, while modern fencing has its beginnings in Spain, where the first two fencing manuals were published in the 15th century. The popularity of fencing and its lethal component of dueling spread throughout Europe during the Renaissance, with famous masters and fencing schools sprouting in Germany, Italy, and France. Fencing became an Olympic sport in 1896, and after the foundation of the International Fencing Federation in France, Eastern European countries such as Hungary, the former Soviet Union, and Romania became important powerhouses in the sport.

For the cadets in the different Thai military academies, fencing has become more and more important with a strong tradition of sending cadet fencers to the yearly national team selection tournaments. Originally, in Thailand,

BANGKOK TRADER

JUNE 2012 - 25 fencing was a sport for cadets only, but with the establishment of a national association in 1965, the numbers of fencing clubs rose to forty. Out of these, four clubs belong to the four Thai military academies.

As with most sports, you never know if it’s for you or not until you try it.

The Amateur Fencing Association of Thailand is under the royal patronage of H.R.H. the Crown Prince and operates from the offices and facilities at the Hua Mark Sport Complex. Their training area is situated on the third floor of the Sport Science Center, while the main office can be found in Zone E under Rajamangala Stadium.

Joining the club at Hua Mark costs 3,000 baht, but if you don’t have your own equipment, you’ll need at least 5,000 baht more to purchase the minimum safety gear. There are about 400 Thai and international fencers training in Thailand, and, surprisingly, there are around 100 wheelchair fencers who are under the umbrella organization of the International Wheelchair and Amputee Sport Federation.

Some of the other fencing clubs are the King Mongkut’s University of Technology Fencing Club in Thonburi (www2.kmutt.ac.th), the Royal Thai Naval Academy Fencing Club in Samut Prakan (www.rtna.ac.th), and the Royal Thai Navy Fencing Club in Bangkok (navyfencing.net). If you want to find out more about the fencing scene throughout Asia and future regional tournaments, you can access the Philippines-based Fencing Confederation of Asia (asianfencing.com).

For more information regarding training schedules and locations of the different clubs in Bangkok, contact the Amateur Fencing Association of Thailand (www.thaifencing.org) at 02-369-2489.

Voicu Mihnea Simandan is a Romanian archer who has been training in Thailand since 2009. He can be contacted via his website at www.simandan.com.

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www.theclubhousebangkok.com | www.facebook.com/theclubhousebangkok Tel 02 664 1376 | E-mail: admin@theclubhousebangkok.com

21/1-3 Soi Sukhumvit 23

26 - JUNE 2012

BANGKOK TRADER

Welcome to The Space

By Shei Sanchez. Photography by Jesper Haynes.

First question: If you had 250 square meters of space overlooking the Chao Praya River in your grasp, what would you do with it?

new, to meet and hopefully, make some lasting ties, “a real social connection, face to face.”

Second question: What if you were acquainted with artists, musicians, foodies, and simply fun folks who are always looking for that certain something that make people want to come back for more?

In fact, this place naturally had that aura of creativity-cum-collaboration before it was baptized as The Space. Formerly, it was an art gallery that suddenly became available for purchase when the owners of the gallery decided to move out. When famous photographer and friend James Nachtwey heard of this availability, he jumped on it. The pristine whitewashed walls on two sides and sizable windows that sweep across the wall on the other sides bestow this positive feeling of welcome. The vast stretch of this space unpretentiously screams Do something here! Do something fun! Without a doubt, this place was born out of the sheer desire to diffuse good vibes and creative sparks among those willing to take it all in.

For five friends, the answer was obvious: Leave it empty and let creativity fill it any which way it pleases. These friends aptly called it The River Space, or The Space, for its airy and insouciant atmosphere and, well, yes, its space.

Though it’s not just any space. It’s anyone’s space – anyone who wants to share what they love or who is inspired to make something happen. “It’s where pretty much anything could be done, with particular focus on our interests, like in photo, art, food, music. But it’s supposed to be a blank palette where anyone could do anything,” Scott Weeks, an owner, described as he prepared photographs to be displayed for that evening’s disco night. Upon finding The Space and walking in, I immediately got that impression: Yes, if I had an idea, why not? After all, with this city’s massive cauldron of impassioned people with impassioned interests, The Space can be that bare canvas for those with the guts and the gusto to put that passion into play.

“We want people to come and feel the energy,” Nym, an owner, expressed.

“When you walk in, you feel good.” Nym, a photographer and writer, explained that one of the goals of The Space is to get people together, new and not-so-

Still fairly new in the Bangkok art and culture scene, The Space officially opened in March 2011. It took about a year for owners of The Space to revamp it and make it what it is now. Currently, it is open only for special events. Since its owners have to balance their own careers with this particular labor of love, The Space isn’t really commercial.

The more regular event is the pop-up dinners. Want to have a Mexican-inspired celebration with menudo, barbacoa, and tequila? Just let The Space owners know and they can help make it happen. The concept of these dinners came from another photographer friend by the name of Jesper Haynes, whose father Jim Haynes is renowned and loved for his Paris suppers. The first 60 or

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70 people who call and say they are coming, they will eat. And just like with The Space – everyone is invited.

It’s open to anyone who wants to cook. “Around one to two times a month, it’s completely spontaneous,” owner Yvan Cohen began to describe the various cuisines and dishes The Space has had. They recently had a Cajun-themed event for 80 people that included Cajun music. Indeed, if you cook it, they will come. The owners themselves have made a few meals. Ideally, it’s good to cook for large numbers, as The Space can seat up to 80. Nevertheless, the owners want to give as much freedom to the guest chefs as well. Once they know what the ingredients will cost, they can set that up and ask hungry diners to make a donation. The money goes toward the food costs and upkeep.

As for the actual spacing and seating, leave that up to the versatility of The Space and its convertible furniture. What was a support for a turntable one evening becomes a dinner table or bar area another evening. Surely, anything is possible in this space.

Besides dinners, there have been some engaging music performances and provocative photo and art exhibits. Most of the art exhibits so far have been on photography, namely because of James Nachtwey and his circle of friends. Of course, any other form of art is welcome. Yvan and Scott immediately spoke of the immensely enthralling duo from Kolkata. Their music and the warm ambience that it exuded confirmed the kind of environment that The Space provides and at the same time, pulls out of its guests. Scott waxed semi-poetic as he described their performance as almost unplugged because it gave that close

BANGKOK TRADER

feeling among its captivated listeners. This place has also opened their doors to a Reuters photographer whose exhibit was accompanied by his wife’s Mexican food. There were video artists who shared their current project, as well as a book launch and talk.

“When it’s really happening, it’s super, super cool,” Nym continued. As I spoke with her, some people were about to come in and join the disco-themed party.

They built a circle of family and friends and they hope to widen this so as to make Bangkok more than just a meeting place of different ideas but also an open space where these ideas can find a good, welcoming home. “We just want to make Bangkok happening,” she said. “It’s a wonderful sensation of seeing things happening.”

Go to The Space and just make it happen.

Take the BTS SkyTrain to Saphan Taksin station and take the river taxi up a couple of stops to the Si Phraya Pier near the Royal Orchid Sheraton (and opposite the Millenium Hilton). Hop on a cross-river ferry to the Khlong San Market. The Space is located inside the market, above the 7-Eleven on the left-hand side. Visit them on Facebook at http://goo.gl/6ucTt for events.

Shei Sanchez is a full-time educator, some-time writer and photographer, gastro-fiend, and budding gardener. She teaches at a university in Bangkok and can be contacted at orangesimple@gmail.com.

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Networking + Ladies Night =

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MONTHLY LAUNCH PARTY

Tuesday, July 3rd, 6:30 p.m. until 8:30 p.m.

The Pintsman, United Center, 323 Silom Road, just walk on down.

Check out our main Faceback page for more details at http:// goo.gl/UBsgo or our events page at http://goo.gl/EnNbR We’ve had a slew of great parties already this year, and we ain’t stoppin’ yet... not by a long shot.Our next party at The Pintsman will be one to remember (or one to try to remember), so check out our Facebook to find out where we’ll be and join up with us – hope to see you there!

For the details on all of our parties (and to look for your bright and shiny mug in our party pix), head on over to facebook.com, search 'Bangkok Trader', and add yourself to our group. After that, we'll automatically update and remind you about the monthly parties.

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