Bangkok Trader – Volume 7, Issue 4 – March 2013

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Vang Vieng Grows Up

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Volume 7, Issue No. 4

March 2013

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ESCAPING BANGKOK VANG VIENG GROWS UP

By Dave Stamboulis

V

ang Vieng has always been about as perfect an escape from Bangkok as one could want. Well, almost. It isn’t too much over an hour to fly up to Vientiane, and from the airport, less than three hours by road into one of Asia’s most photogenic and paradisiacal spots, where limestone peaks shrouded in mist rise off the Nam Song River and outdoor adventure possibilities, from caving to mountain biking to rock climbing, abound. Even a long weekend could satisfy the most escapist junkie.

Only problem is that Vang Vieng, almost from its discovery as a sleepy magical backwater over a decade ago, became full-moon-backpacker central and turned into Daytona Beach in a small SE Asian village, which was one perfect recipe for disaster. Over the years, Vang Vieng became an eyesore, with underdressed drunken hordes taking over town and spilling over into the one peaceful place left to escape, the Nam Song River.

I can remember visiting Vang Vieng and evading the crowds, getting a kayak, and paddling leisurely down the Nam Song, enjoying the birdlife and solitude, even if the town was teeming with the Lonely Planet masses. So imagine my surprise showing up one year and finding not birds on the river, but bar upon bar erected along the Nam Song, complete with rope swings, zip lines, buckets of alcohol, and, of course, the drunken masses.

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I guess it isn’t any surprise in a place where the most popular establishment was called the FU BAR (standing for F***ed Up Beyond All Recognition), and a full moon party wasn’t every four weeks, but each night. Somewhere along the line, it got out of control and peaked when 27 foreigners died in 2011 due to drinking, drowning, and jumping from high places into the shallow river. At some point, the Lao authorities decided enough was enough, and late in 2012, after a further spate of deaths, the government gave a mandate to tear down all the river bars.

Now, one would expect that an order like this in a tourist cash cow in Southeast Asia would last all of a corrupt cop and a day or two, but when I visited Vang Vieng a week before Christmas, it was like finding heaven on earth. All riverside bars had indeed been bulldozed, innertubing and any other river activities now had to be completed by 6 p.m., and all river trips required trained guides.

Back on the main drag in town, the majority of bars and restaurants were open, but with manageable numbers, no loud noise, and a contingent of families and couples enjoying themselves. People also seemed to be following the signs that had been erected in just about every establishment saying “Respect Lao culture, do not go shirtless or without shoes, no bathing suits in town, no body painting.”

Best of all, the fantastic scenery and adventure possibilities that had brought visitors to Vang Vieng in the first place were still all there… and without any of the crowds. I rented a mountain bike and headed out on the red dirt roads that run away from the river, where endless caves abound, and where I encountered plenty of solitude and pristine spots. Even the famed Blue

bangkok trader MARCH 2013 7

drinking as a top choice of activities, with dawn and sunset flights drawing plenty of guests who want a bird’s-eye view of the knockout surroundings.

Vientiane’s middle class is growing, as is the older expat crowd, and both are now making Vang Vieng their number-one weekend escape, adding to the need for more upscale restaurants, accommodations, and services. Usually, the development of a travel destination into a higher end market spells its end, but in the case of Vang Vieng, it is more like the case of a troubled teen finally maturing and coming of age, and it is a pleasure to see Laos’s gem growing up.

Riverside Boutique Resort – www.riversidevangvieng.com – Ban Viengkeo, P.O. Box 360, Vang Vieng. Tel. +856 (0)23 511 726(-8).

SAELAO – www.saelaoproject.com – Tel. +856 (0)20 2292-8630.

Lagoon, an emerald pool once famed for being overcrowded with inebriated hordes, was now a relatively tranquil spot, with a few tourists enjoying the clear water and rope swing that actually went over spots deep enough to make a splash in without the risk of injury.

Just next door, a small thatch hut restaurant served fruit shakes and organic food, part of the SAELAO project, a sustainable tourism operation started by a Vang Vieng native trying to bring back some of the original vibe of this beautiful spot. Sengkeo Frichitthavong, better known as Bob, grew up in Vang Vieng, moved to Canada as a teen, and was horrified to see what had happened to his home when he returned in 2008. He started SAELAO, which now runs a volunteer English program, has an organic farm, café, and handicraft shop, and is building a small guesthouse out away from town, attracting a new breed of tourist, one that is miles removed from the beach bar mentality.

Even back in town, things are changing. Vang Vieng now has its first boutique resort, the Riverside Vang Vieng, with traditional Lao rooms and suites surrounding a garden set right over the Nam Song and looking out at the limestone peaks with the best view in town. Hot air ballooning has replaced

8 bangkok trader MARCH 2013

DAYTRIPPING AIR FORCE MUSEUM

By Voicu Mihnea Simandan

B

angkok doesn’t have to be an expensive city to live in. There are hundreds of tasty street restaurants to choose from, numerous parks where you can enjoy relaxing activities, and a score of attractions and venues you can visit absolutely free. There is even a website (www.bangkok4free.com) that lists things to see and do for free in the Thai capital, and one of their recommendations is a daytrip to the Royal Thai Air Force Museum.

closeup encounter with jet fighters, transport aircraft, training planes and radars, as well as various aircraft parts that could no longer be assembled for display purposes.

Most of the aircraft displayed in the five hangars are in good condition while the ones outside, having been exposed to the forces of nature, are a bit worse for wear. Still, with the exception of the junkyard at the far end of the museum, all the displays are well worth a careful look. You are actually allowed to climb into any aircraft and helicopters that have their doors open and aren’t blocked by do-not-cross ropes. You can easily get in the cargo area of a huge Fairchild C-123B Provider and, from there, climb in the pilot’s seat. The same is true with the H-19 Chickasaw and H-34 Choctaw, two huge Sikorsky helicopters, which make great photo opportunities and are a delight to children.

Founded in 1952, the museum was initially just a collection of decommissioned aircraft and outdated equipment. They were housed in a hangar west of Don Muang airfield, but the place was not open to the public. The construction of the present museum started in 1968 with an investment of almost 7 million baht and was ready for its grand opening in early 1969. Ever since, it has served as an excellent venue for displaying quite a few types of aircraft not found anywhere else in the world, most of which saw action during the two World Wars and in the subsequent anti-communist campaigns There are over fifty aircraft in the indoor and outdoor exhibitions, but some in Southeast and East Asia. of the most interesting ones are the Boripatra, the pride of all Thai people, designed and built in Thailand using a British engine, and the Bell UH-1N The museum is comprised of five buildings (basically huge hangars) and Twin Huey helicopter, which was used for royal flights by the King of Thaioutdoor displays. The exhibits are divided thematically, starting from dis- land. Two other displayed planes that deserve a mention are the world’s plays about the history of Thai aviation, aircraft flown by the Royal Thai Air first F5s, the F5-A and F5-B Freedom Fighters.

Force after World War II, aircraft designed and built in Thailand, aircraft rarely found in any other museums in the world, aircraft used in conflicts in South- The history of aviation in Thailand goes back over a century when, during east Asia, helicopters, propeller fighters, and jets. There’s also a collection of the reign of King Rama VI, a Belgian pilot named Charles Van Den Born training equipment for pilots, rifles, machine guns, insignia and other para- made the first flight demonstration in the country on February 6, 1911. The phernalia. For this, a large outdoor exhibition gives you the chance for a biplane Henry Farman IV took off and touched down at Sra Pathum Race-

10 bangkok trader MARCH 2013

course in Bangkok in the presence of the Siamese royal family and highranking army officers.

Thailand’s most successful airplane, the one whose name is known by almost all Thai people, is Boripatra, a bomber aircraft Type B-2, which was entirely designed and built using Thai expertise in 1927. Records aren’t exactly accurate when it comes to the number of aircraft built, but most historians believe that about twelve Boripatra planes were built in all. These were The Royal Thai Air Force Museum is open every day except public holidays mostly used to fly diplomatic missions abroad. from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Large groups are required to call at least one week in advance at 02-534-1853 and apply for permission to visit the museum.

The Air Force Division became the Royal Thai Air Force (RTAF), the name by They will arrange for a bilingual tour guide to show the group around and which it is known today, in 1937, when it was also restructured under the will also set up fun activities for school children. You can easily spend a few Ministry of War. Since 1979, the RTAF flag is sky blue with its own emblem good hours there and the canteen comes in handy. They serve inexpencontaining the royal cipher: double-wings topped by the Great Crown of sive Thai food and cold and hot beverages. Also, on your way out, you can Victory with light emanating from the top and the Thai symbol for Aum un- stop by their souvenir shop where you can buy model planes, T-shirts, caps, der, a Buddhist-Hindu sacred sign representing the Path to Enlightenment. stickers, and insignia, but unfortunately, no books or even brochures are available.

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The museum is located on Phahon Yothin Road behind Don Muang Airport and can be reached by taxi or by bus (non-air-conditioned – No. 34, 39, 114, 356 – or air-conditioned ones – No. 3, 21, 22, 25, 34, 39, 114, 356).

If you want to find out more about the history of Thai aviation, the museum’s excellent bilingual (Thai-English) website (www.rtaf.mi.th/ museum) is recommended,as is Steve Darke’s comprehensive aviation project (www.thai-aviation.net) from where most of the historical information mentioned in this article is credited.

Also recommended is the book Aerial Nationalism: A History of Aviation in Thailand by Edward M. Young, published by the Smithsonian History of Aviation in 1994. It is the first and most detailed academic study of over forty years of Thai aviation history, from 1911 when the first airshow took place in Thailand until the end of World War II in 1945, when the Thai Air Force participated in the Japanese advance on Burma and later provided clandestine support to the Allies. The book is available from the Smithsonian at http://goo.gl/ck61x or from Amazon.com.

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BANGKOK BIRYANI

By Dave Stamboulis

W

hile grilled and fried chicken and stewed pork leg are a baht a dozen in Bangkok, with everyone having their own personal favorite, it gets a bit more selective when you mention khao mok gai.

Khao mok gai (actually we should just say khao mok, but the chicken is the most commonly eaten one) is the Thai version of what is popularly known in India and the Middle East as biryani. Coming from the Farsi (Persian) word birian, which means ‘fried,’ biryani consists of rice that is mixed with a combo of meat and vegetables that have been cooked in a spice-hearty assortment of cardamom, bay leaves, coriander, mint, cinnamon, saffron, ginger, garlic, and onions. The dish most likely originated in Persia, possibly brought down from Afghanistan, and then made its way to Mughal India in the 15th Century.

While the dish is wildly popular throughout India, with dozens of variations available, the most famous of which are Hyderbad biryani (where the meat and rice are cooked together) and Lucknowi biryani (where they are cooked in a dum pukht ‘slow oven’), in Thailand, it was introduced through the Thai Muslim population and is usually only found in Muslim stalls and restaurants and almost always found served with chicken. Khao mok gai is usually accompanied by a minty dipping sauce when done properly, but in Thailand, tends to lack the other side dishes that come with it in various forms in India.

One very pleasant exception to this can be found at a little gem of a diner known as the Home Cuisine Islamic Restaurant. Tucked away in a small, dead-end soi off Charoen Krung near the Chao Phraya river, this cute eatery with a smattering of indoor and outdoor tables dishes serves some of the most outstanding biryani in the country. Here, as in India, the khao mok is served up not only with a delicious mint sauce, but also with a side of thick

yoghurt and mixed vegetable sauce that compliments the various spice flavors of the biryani. Also coming with each order is an eggplant or other pickled vegetable, which also serves to enhance the array of taste sensations.

Perhaps the biggest draw at Home Cuisine Islamic is their goat curry, tender and bursting with flavor, guaranteed to turn even the most ardent mutton hater into an aficionado. It’s not too surprising, given that the owner of Home Cuisine started out as a goat butcher and obviously had a pretty good sense of what a top cut of meat was. While the chicken and fish biryani are also excellent, the mutton here is on another level of degustation, and makes the khao mok a lot closer to the form of the dish that one finds in India and on across to Iran.

Additionally, it is not all khao mok at Home Cuisine. The restaurant turns out some fine samosas for appetizers and also has a fairly extensive Indian menu, as well as some Thai dishes, but you don’t want to come all this way without trying the biryani.

In an area known for sky-bars and some of the fanciest hotels and priciest

bangkok trader MARCH 2013 13

real estate in the city, it is quite strange to come across this quiet and unpretentious spot, tucked away behind leafy greenery on a street where you wouldn’t expect to find many visitors, as it appears to just be a residential block that dead-ends at the river. But when it comes to good food, word of mouth trumps most obstacles, and you may find yourself coming back for more.

Home Cuisine Islamic is slightly hidden and tricky to get to if you are coming for the first time, and most taxi drivers don’t know the area either. Your best bet is to go down the soi off Charoen Krung where the Mandarin Oriental is located and turn right just before the hotel and river, onto a small soi that runs up to Charoen Krung 36 and the restaurant. If you get lost, just ask for the French Embassy, as Home Cuisine is just across from its parking lot.

Home Cuisine Islamic Restaurant – 186 Charoen Krung 36, Charoen Krung Road. Tel: 02 234 7911. Hours: Mon-Sat: 11:00-21:30, Sun: 18:0021:30. www.facebook.com/HomecuisineIslamic

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Networking

Head over to www.facebook.com/bangkoktrader to check out all the pix from the great time we had at the Queen Victoria Pub on Sukhumvit 23!

16 bangkok trader MARCH 2013

TRAVELIN’ MAN

By Voicu Mihnea Simandan

F

rom our sister publication, Bangkok Business Brief, we bring you a sample of our exclusive interview with Amata Corp’s Chairman, Vikrom Kromadit. For the full interview, read our online copy of Bangkok Business Brief at www.BBBrief.com.

BBB: During your travels, you’ve met with many individuals and government officials. Is there anything you feel you’ve learned that people in Thailand can learn from you?

we’ve seen the most change. After they adjusted the peoples’ philosophy, the environment, the infrastructure development… the last 20 years has seen many changes. I think that if China doesn’t have any internal problems or changes in politics, they should be able to surpass America.

The first thing a country needs is stability. It also needs direction. You need to have the people moving in the same direction. That is one incredible thing I learned from my trip. When you look at China you have to ask, “How can a country of Vikrom Kromadit: I travelled over 42,000 kilo- this size with so many people achieve this?” There meters during two trips that lasted nine months are so many languages and cultures in China, but in total. I found many things. they still maintain control. So I think that stability is most important, and the spirit of the people.

First, I really feel that Asia has so many interesting and different cultures. While travelling by car BBB: China has done a phenomenal job of using from village to village, province to province, city cheap labor to export, and they have refined this to city, we saw many differences in cultures that over the years and are now are moving towards we’d never seen before. We went to very remote more importing. They are attempting to build the areas and very developed cities. So the first thing infrastructure and move people away from the I found was the culture. cities and get them out into the countryside. How do you feel this fits in with communications and Second, I found changes in city environments social media? Twenty years ago, there wasn’t a and economics. I went to China for the first time Twitter or Facebook to think about. in 1980. I went to Vietnam in 1991. Laos, of course, was the same. Because of this, I could feel the VK: You’re right. Normally with economic growth, economic progress very deeply when I looked at you see the infrastructure and communications today and then thought back about history. The growing in parallel. In China, they are still very economic growth seems nonstop and the angle much controlled. They have to control, and they is very steep compared to other countries. feel they need to control all of the media. But because of the systems and technology of today, Of course, China is the most active. I don’t think these things are becoming more difficult to conI’ve seen any country that had such a great trol. So they are slowly changing as people gain change in the last 20 years. They opened their knowledge. So this is why I said, if China can keep doors about 30 years ago, but in the past 20 years, the country stable….

BBB: That’s a big if. With social media, things travel lightening fast.

VK: [laughs] If you are the leader of China today, technology is probably the cause of a major headache, right? But how about the next ten years?

BBB: Worse. Definitely it will be worse.

VK: That is the point. If they can remain stable in the future, they will have the world’s greatest economy. But that is my biggest worry because in the past, Chinese leaders – take, for example, Bo Xilai, whose wife killed the British man – when people find out about things like this, they stop and think, “Oh, why is our politician who is supposed to be good doing many dirty things and is so rich?” So, the corruption is the one thing that can disturb and kill the trust and confidence of the people in their leaders. So, now, the leader of China says he would like to clean up the corruption, and he has a big job to focus on and restore confidence. I think this is the new generation of Chinese leadership. Things can’t be done like they were before. So, in China, I think this is the main problem. In the past twenty years, they have been growing well, but things like this will make the people unhappy.

BBB: We’ve been talking about China. Do you feel there are lessons for Thailand?

VK: Yes, I think we should have more concern for the environment. I travelled down many roads in China, and next to the road, they always kept it green. They have trees growing everywhere.

I think we could learn and should be keeping

bangkok trader MARCH 2013 17

things green. We should be using more green energy like wind turbines or using sunshine for solar power. Also things like electricity for motorcycles.

BBB: Logistics cost represent 14% of the GDP. In most industrialized countries, it is more like six or seven percent. If we could reduce the logistics cost here, then the reduction in fuel and wear and tear on the roads would have to be phenomenal. I would think this would have more impact than planting trees.

VK: Sure. Well, they need to do three things. Number one would be to make more eco-cars. Thailand is currently producing a lot of eco-cars. Number two, I feel, is industry. They are trying to save more energy and cut costs.

To cut costs means to keep production but reduce energy. So that is what we are doing with the system we call the ‘Smart City.’ We want to be ‘smart’ and keep the same production levels, but cut costs. Number three, I believe, would be trying to switch from gasoline to natural gas. So those are things we are talking about controlling costs while helping the environment.

One thing we regret about our country is our leaders don’t come by capability, they come by quota. How much they invest, how many seats they will get. That is the trouble. I always have people request me to be the Prime Minister. I just say to them, “I’m a lazy man.” But really, I like to talk. I would like to influence society. I’m talking about positive things, contributing things – not only in Thailand, but for the world.

As I mentioned, it’s a strange country. There’s really no system. I’m Thai, but I don’t really agree with the way Thai people are doing things. But if you look at how they’ve been doing things for the past 30 to 50 years, they are still going and going. They say, “Sabai, sabai….” They still survive. They are not serious, but they still get things going. This is one of the things I always wonder about. They are lucky. They are not going by capability.

BBB: As Americans say, it is sometimes better to be lucky than good.

VK: [laughs] You see. They are lucky. They are not capable, but they are lucky.

In our country, there are no earthquakes, no typhoons, no snow. This is al- family, they reduce the defense costs. When they come together as a family, ready what we call lucky. Japan, Taiwan, Korea, the Philippines, Indonesia, there is less cost for maintenance. or wherever....

When people come over to Thailand as a labor force, they can come to work.

In Bangkok, they can go shopping or go to the motor show. The movement BBB: It’s not stable. of people will be greater. And when people are moving, the costs are reduced and efficiency will be higher. It means I bring my money, my techVK: Yeah, not by God. [laughs] That is why we are lucky. nology, and my market to my neighbors. A lot of things have been growing with our neighbors. What does Thailand need? We need labor and raw BBB: What God gave us was Thai politicians. That’s our calamity. materials. Thai people will go to do whatever they can do in the production VK: [laughs] In my industrial park today, it’s very, very rare that I see facto- and mining of raw material. Do you think it’s better? Of course! Asean GDP is ries dead. Most of them make profit and are growing. Chinese are 100%. I about growth. The opportunities are more and the costs are less. would say, in my factories, 99% are successful. It’s because they are lucky.

There are no earthquakes, no floods, no typhoons, no nothing. That is a Lastly, the name of Asean adds more value. Why? Many leaders of the world good thing for them. Government… that does not affect them so much come to the Asean Summit. If it was Thailand alone, do you think people because they are living in a compound. At Amata, we give them one-stop would come? Laos? Cambodia? No. The world needs a brand. The world service. They don’t need to be concerned about the government. They needs something more solid. don’t care who the Prime Minister is. They just care about what Amata provides to them. They come to stay in Amata because everything is on the table. They don’t need to talk with anyone else. If you are a foreigner EURO and you come, you get the land price, you get the utilities, you get your V IN Y L economical • energy efficient • environment friendly windows & doors licenses. You get everything you need. Your duty is your fence. My duty is outside of your fence. We cooperate like that so you don’t have to waste a Casement windows/doors minute of your time. That is our system.

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When it flooded many… gone. Many Japanese companies went bankrupt.

You can see how important Thai production is by the affect on the Japanese companies. They didn’t have the cargo or supplies because those electronics factories are located in the north of Bangkok. And why didn’t Amata flood? It’s because our location is next to the sea. And when the water comes, where does it go? It goes out to sea.

BBB: Do you have positive thoughts about Asean?

VK: Yes. Yes, I do. Asean is getting better. In the old days, everyone was living alone. How do you reduce costs? I think, politically, if everyone can talk as a

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SLUMDOG FRIENDSHIPS

By Voicu Mihnea Simandan, photos by Regin Reyno

F

riendships of Gold by American author Max Ediger was first published in 2001 by Thai publishing house Nanmeebooks, but has long since been out of print. That was until June last year, when Booksmango.com took over the project and made the book available in Amazon’s Kindle e-book format and from the Bangkok Books online store (www.bangkokbooks.com). This was great news, as Ediger’s book deserves the attention of all English-speaking readers who live in or are just passing through Bangkok.

None of the Vietnamese locals is spared, and when the noise of the machine guns and grenades fades away, Tony is one of the few American soldiers left standing. But, for the atrocities committed, he has to live the rest of his life with the guilt of killing an innocent girl and the consequences of his rage, including being consigned to a wheelchair.

Abandoning his wife and daughter in the U.S., Tony finds himself in the Bangkok of the late 1980s, drinking his days away and fighting every night the memories of his actions in Vietnam. Wheeling his way through the maze of rundown houses with their corrugated iron roofs, Tony is known to the Soi 4 Community where he lives as ‘Farang Baa,’ the ‘Crazy Foreigner,’ who’s not good at anything but knocking down their market wares with his erratic wheelchair driving skills.

According to the book cover, Max Ediger spent more than twenty years in Thailand, where he did volunteer work for the Mennonite Central Committee, a relief + service + community development + peace agency. Apart from Thailand, he has also served in Burundi, Vietnam, and Hong Kong. It’s obvious to anyone reading Friendships of Gold that Ediger was not idle in his travels, but rather busy, interacting with the locals, trying to understand In a way, Tony’s story is quite familiar to the long-time expat residents of their hardships, and help them however he could.

Thailand:“Finally he came to Thailand, hoping that being in Asia might help.

He taught English for more than a year and studied Thai. During this time he Although a work of fiction about poor slum dwellers fighting against evic- kept some control over the nightmare and had also been able to decrease tion from Soi 4 Community, it is hard for the reader not to think of Klong- his drinking, but then suddenly the nightmare returned with such fiercetoey, the poorest area in Bangkok, famous for its slums and infamous mar- ness that he had to quit both teaching and studies. He had come to this ket. Ediger’s vivid description of the squalid conditions in which many poor slum, hoping he could hide and eventually forget.”

Thais live can make you stare at the printed words on the page in disbelief as you continue reading the book in the air-conditioned living room of the The other inhabitants of the Soi 4 Community came to Bangkok from poor high-rise condominium you live in. But, for the people of Soi 4 Community villages up north, hoping to find a better job in the capital. Among these is in Friendships of Gold, the slum is all they have, and they’re about to lose Tony’s neighbor, Nimit, a police officer, who has seen his parents’ farmland even that as the landowner intends to sell the land to a hotel developer. taken away and subsequently watched his parents die in despair. Although Farang Baa does not wish to make any friends, Tony and Nimit gradually The action of the book starts in 1972, when a group of American soldiers build a strong relationship, but hard days come ahead when eviction nogo on a killing rampage after their squad captain is shot dead in Vietnam. tices start threatening the little security the slum dwellers had until then.

bangkok trader MARCH 2013 19

Dream GYM A5_c.pdf 1 27/3/2555 14:17:26

The QueenVictoria British Pub and Restaurant C

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CM

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CY

CMY

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Great pub food snacks & Thai favourites from our open-plan kitchen Many TVs inside & in our outdoor garden area ideal for watching live sport with sound Free Wi-Fi • Daily happy hours 4.30-7.30 pm • • Function room • • Available for private parties •

Sukumvit Soi 23 (opposite Soi Cowboy)

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20 bangkok trader MARCH 2013

Nimit cannot bear to see the people of Soi 4 Community lose the roofs over their heads and starts the fight against their eviction. Soon he is joined by Khru Mali, the community’s school teacher; Ti, an orphaned girl who befriends Tony and buys him whiskey whenever he needs a drink; Granny Lek, one of the community’s eldest; plus a score of other colorful characters that seems to shape out the slum community from the pages of the book.

Friendships of Gold is a heartfelt story of a group of people trying to win not only their right for a place to live, but also their dignity. As the readers turn page after page, they see how empowerment and social justice is possible, even in the least expected places and how, if people stick together and do not give up, anything is possible.

The author dedicates the book to “all the friends in Thailand who have proven to me again and again that their friendship is truly golden. Their commitment to justice and human rights and their perseverance in the face of many difficulties has inspired me tremendously.”

Even though not quite a literary masterpiece, Friendships of Gold is worth reading for its message of hope and ability to lift the readers’ spirit and even draw a few tears. Because Tony, Nimit, Ti, and Mali were able to work out their differences, to accept and forget their pasts, and to realize that what kept them strong and together was each other’s honest feelings: “Money is silver, but friendship is gold. It’s the most precious thing we can have. If we have friends, we have life. Always protect your friendships. They are the most valuable things you will ever have in your life.”

Max Ediger was born in Oklahoma in 1946, and he has been involved in religious voluntary service since the age of nineteen. His writing career started in 1971 while working in Vietnam, and he has penned several books of poetry, fiction and nonfiction that deal with communities struggling for jus-

tice and human rights. His interaction with refugees, slum communities, poor villagers, and victims of war has greatly influenced his writings, in which he attempts to give a voice to those who are not heard.

Apart from Friendships of Gold, Max Ediger has also written two books of poetry, A Vietnamese Pilgrimage (Faith and Life Press, 1978) and Dialogue with a Dream (self-published, 1998); a book for children, Caleb and Shalev (Eloquent Books, 2010, available from Amazon); and two books of non-fiction, Release Us from Bondage: Six Days in a Vietnamese Prison (MCC, 1974) and Differences (Xlibris Corp, 2005; reprinted as an e-book by Bangkok Books, 2011, also available in Kindle format from Amazon).

Sukhumvit Soi 4 Heineken & San Miguel,

99Bt a pint

Nana’s Original British Boozer

bangkok trader MARCH 2013 21

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HOUSE FOR RENT in Pravet at Lalin Green Ville, 5min to airport link Ban-Tap-Chang station. 200 sqm, 3 BR, 3 LR, 2 Kitchens (thai & farang), fully furnished (dishwasher, washing machine, oven, cutlery, bed sheets, internet access, UBC dish). near clubhouse / swimming pool. rent: 38’000 month, long term negotiable. call Khun Gae: 081 643-2834 (C)

FURNISHED ROOM – with free HS Internet (Ploenchit townhouse) for rent. Bht 8,800. It’s located in the heart of city. Size 25 sqm. 5 mins walking from BTS skytrain station & close to embassies & expressway, easy to go anywhere you wish in Bangkok near all famous shopping malls / super markets/fitness. To view the room please call to make an appointment first. Tel 081 DO YOU HAVE A GARDEN? Flowers at home 926 9198. e-mail to: pasharees@yahoo.com (C) or in your condo? Try our Vermicompost. What NATIVE ENGLISH teachers wanted – Volunteer is Vermicompost? It adds nutrients into the soil (no pay) during Mar 11-15 10.00-12.00 a.m. and soil structure. Plants just love it! Call us at Dedicated Christian. Teach pronunciation, 0877941183 Aldo (English) or 0896694852 Yui conversation to grade 1-6 students. Can (Thai). Check our Facebook page @ Dirt Digger come any day you are free. U.S., Bristish, NZ,

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GET A FREE 1 YEAR Thai ED visa – when you study Thai language at Kent School of Languages! No SOI AREE CONDO FOR SALE – 42 sqm. Large visa runs or border runs, no need to leave the studio high floor 800m. To Aree BTS quiet place country, a perfectly legal way to stay in Thailand fully furnished, 600 m to expressway, near villa for 1 up to 10 years, Small class sizes in a brandsupermarket, hospital very convenience to go new, modern school, centrally located close conyact zing 0875129512. (C) to Bangkok sky-train, Professional, courteous LAND FOR SALE – Wang Noi District, Aduthaya service at a reasonable cost. Call: 082-440-8893 Province 49 Rai or 20 Acre. This area were safe from or contact@kentsol.com (B) 2011 big flood! Good for factory or compound?

Even farm. Special price 49 million baht or make APT FOR RENT – 2 bedrooms + 1 study room, 2 and offer. Call 086-34-777-98 Elizabeth (C) bathrooms, open kitchen and living room, 42’ TV FOR SALE, complete homebrew outfit, baht total 118 sqm. F/F in Sukhumvit soi 11 for rent.

15,000. Email mactbkk3@gmail.com for listing of 33,000 baht/month. contact: Lee 081-3070618 (B) items. (C) TARGET INDIA – searching for leadership CASA CITY 3 stories town house, newly built. 3 types to assist us in pre-marketing in India, bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, kitchen, dining, study, the Middle East and S. E. Asia. What do you and living room. Aircondition in every rooms, 2 know about Franchise Building Strategies? We car park. 23 wah corner unit. Locate on main road train and offer continuous support. If you love Ramkhamhaeng 76. Close to Big C supermarket, working with people and desire to create an Home Pro, Honda showroom, and Peugeot impressive income, contact us for an interview showroom. Sale 7 million. Mobile 086-537-2557 at: biz2expand@gmail.com (B) Naree (B)

PART TIME JOB possibility to earn 10 000 to 50 000 THB/month www.job4betterlife.com (L) THB 2,000 SEES YOU picked up in the morning, SANSIRI AREE high rise – brand new condo for taken to a market to shop for ingredients, then rent 2 BR / 2 baths 48000 / month. 3-5 minutes to a typical Thai home in a typical Bangkok walk to BTS Aree station. Furnished / ready to ‘muubaan’ (gated community) to cook, have move in. Fully access to gym and pools, exclusive lunch and savour the atmosphere before you outdoor patio for private party. Please contact are chauffered back to your destination. E-mail 080-072-5411 (B) reservations only to sumaetp@gmail.com (C) CONDO FOR SALE – 80 sqm,in Sukhumvit soi 11.

Balcony, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, livingroom, open kitchen, 21 floor, nice view, furnished, pool, jim room, aircon, excellent location.

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NEED A VISA? VISA ISSUES? Do you need a long-term or short-term Visa to stay in Thailand? Do you need to extend or transform your current Visa? Do you have an overstay or blacklist problem? We solve ANY immigration problem you might have. “ANY” means ANY! We provide fast services at a reasonable price.

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CONDO FOR SALE – 96 sqm, in sukhumvit soi 11, balcony, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, livingroom, open kitchen, 21 floor, nice view, furnished, pool, jim room, aircon. Tel: 0819265544. Mail: idit@irpc. net (C)

ENJOY LEARNING THAI. What we offer 1.

Beginner, classes taught in English. Teaching through body language, pictures, and video clips. 2. Intermediate/Advanced, classes taught in Thai / English as needed. Teaching through body language, pictures, and video clips. 3.

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22 bangkok trader MARCH 2013 TAI CHI FOR HEALING – Two 12-lesson intensive foundation courses in ancient Laojia 9 form all basics of tai chi. Starting early January: one at weekends, one on weekday mornings.

Book in advance – places are limited. Course will be certificated. Peter Jenkinson is member of 20th Generation Chen Tai Chi Master Liu Yong International Association. Lessons held at Yoga Elements, 29 Vanissa Building 23rd Floor, Soi Chidlom 02 655 5671 or call Peter 086 0144050. www.chentaichithailand.com (A) TEACHCHA CENTER. Teaching English, Thai, Chinese (Basic, advances, business, IELTS , TOEFL, TWE, TOEIC, Chinese for Academic and business, Thai for business, academic etc.) and Mathematics by experienced and qualified teachers and native speakers. In person at our Center, your offices or online. Well organized curriculum. Suit individual needs. Free programs and worksheets Contact: Tisha 0870853455 tisha.tutor@gmail.com www.teachcha.com youtube: weloveteachcha (A) FURNISHED ROOM with free HS Internet (Ploenchit Townhouse) for rent - Bht 6,800-8,800.

Located in the heart of city. Size 23/35 sqm - 5 mins walking from BTS skytrain station & close to embassies & expressway, easy to go anywhere you wish in Bangkok near all famous shopping malls / supermarkets / fitness. To view room, call to make an appointment first. Penny: Tel 089 499 8356, 081 926 9198. e-mail to: pashaporns@ yahoo.com or benz_ps@hotmail.com (A) WANTED ANYONE invoved in leather / plastic walets - handbag - bag ect also flipflops casual footware plus ladies gent kids clothing all sizes and at competative qrices for export to the uk any amounts concidered call 081 490 6275 (L) OFFICE FOR RENT AT PAYATHAI PLAZA, at Payathai BTS station & Airport Rail Link. Near Victory Monument transport & entertainment node. Finished office ready to move-in, 161.40 sq.m., Baht 220 / sqm / mo. Call Jazz 02-2710987-88 Ext. 333 or email to secretary1@thaichoice.com (A) FULL TIME SALES MANAGER required to sell advertising for publisher of Thailand’s No 1 English golf magazine and regional golf guides.

Based in Bangkok. Basic salary plus generous commission. Thai and English speaking is essential. e.mail mikebridgeceo@gmail.com or telephone +66(0) 831 986700. (A) PANASIN PLACE Ramkhamhaeng Soi 24/3, Ramkhamhaeng Rd., Huamark, Bangkapi. 3 stories home office 165 sqm. 2 car park and a large parking lot. Lease 17 years. Sale 1.7 M. Rent 22,000 baht / month. Mobile 086-537-2557 Naree (B) APARTMENT RENTAL at dlv thong lor 20, 2nd floor, fully furnished, 55.11 sqm, 12 mts contract, rental abt 28,000 / month. (negotiable). room is available from now onwards. for more information pls contact: jeetu – 0897996909 (C) EXPERIENCED PROFESSIONAL GRAPHIC and book/magazine designer for print and web.

I can create a professional looking identity, look, or brand for your business needs. Contact AU. (‘oo’) at au.laphat.rada@gmail.com or call 089 229 4416. (B)

SPANISH TRANSLATIONS and interpretation – Spanish native speaker offers translation and interpretation services. Websites, contracts, official letters, manuals etc. Both for private companies and official institutions. Thai translations and Accounting also offered. Call 0870470590 or email: Spanish_Consultant@ yahoo.es (C) NANA PLAZA – very large & popular entertainment bar within Nana Plaza for sale.

Contact Simon 081-874-1331. (B) SHIPPING CONTAINERS going to the U.K MarchApril 2013. Have room for anything legal call as soon as possible for info. 0814906275. John. (B) GOLF TRAVEL MATE BAG. Fitleist Excellent condition black in colour with yellow strip. Nice and light to handle with hand grip and shoulder strap. Zip pouch for golf balls. Great way to carry you clubs to the driving range or golf course. 500 baht ph 0828128226 (A) BUSINESS / FINANCIAL CONSULTANTS, estate planners, will writers & paralegals are required to join our organization. Full / Part-Time vacancies are available. (If you don’t have the qualifications, then you may attend our seminars and be certified). Franchises / Agencies are available. For further information and to send your resume / CV to: legalalliance777@gmail.com (L) CHEAP LUXURIOUS CONDO FOR RENT - 64m2, 1 big bedroom, 1 living room and 1 bathroom with tub. Fully furnished. Big swimming pool view, fittness, and children playground. 5 minute walk to Phoyothin MRT. 5 minute walk to Union Mall and Big C. 12,000 Baht/month. Call Maggie: 0818395159 Line (C) TWO BEDROOM FF 75M/SQ condo for rent with asking 35,000 baht per month. It is light and bright and there are open green views from the medium size balcony. Location is conveniently near the BTS as well as a tennis club. On the roof top is a swimming pool, deck chairs, change rooms and a small workout room. To view please phone 08 0061 1054 (L) LOW RISE CONDOMINIUM FOR RENT / sale in Sukhumvit 71 – Fully furnished unit, 115 sqm, 2 bedrooms / 2 bathrooms, living, dining, kitchen (fitted), 2 balconies. Includes electrical appliances and TV, 3 air conditioners, water heaters. Unit is on the 6th floor of an 8-storey building. Rooftop pool, jacuzzi, fitness room, garden. Close to several international schools, banks, supermarkets.

Thonglor and Ekamai just 10 minutes away.

Nearest BTS is Phrakhanong. Contact kittima@ brandnow.asia for details. (L) FOR SALE: HUSTLERS POOL BAR Bangkok’s premier pool hall & bar .Top quality fit out with 11 original Brunswick tables & Wurlitzer Bubbler Juke Box. This profitable business is in a Prime location in Lower Sukhumvit with a good lease.

Sale due to the owner retiring. Serious enquiries to owner tms@loxinfo.co.th (K) MODERN CONDO FOR RENT – 60 sq.m, Lumpini village Cultural Center, living room, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen, 2 balconys, furnished in modern and light / fresh style. rental only THB 25,000 per month. For sale 3.8 million Swimming pool, sauna, fitness. Close to MRT and Central.

Contact Joe 0814506621 (C) FILIPINO OFFICE ADMINISTRATOR – Our company is in search of a good Filipino Office Administrator who can work full-time in R.C.A., Rama 9 Road. For interested applicants e-mail your resume to uie2005@gmail.com (C)

♣♣♣♣♣♣♣♣

GOLF PUTTERS – Brand New Prokennex golf putters – Left or right handed, ex promotional items, never used, retail at Central for approximately Bt3,800.

For sale at Bt750 each. Photographs available.

Contact Andy: 0808149080 or email to anhyde@gmail.com ♣♣♣♣♣♣♣♣ (B) HAIR & BEAUTY SALON FOR SALE South Pattaya. Great Location in City Walk Pattaya (Next to Royal Garden plaza) on beach front. 7 Work Stations, 2 Massage Tables, Good clientele base. Two 5 star Hotels nearby. Free parking.

No Licence required. No Key money. Profitable Business. Accounts available. 30,000 baht/month rent. Only 1.2M Baht. Relocating hence sale price.

Call 080-0959002 (L) CENTER-CONDOTEL IN SOUTH PATTAYA, 14th floor, Tukcom-View, 50 sqm, fully furnished, ready to move in, price: 2.350.000 baht. Phone: 0896020642. Email: manfredgauff@yahoo.com (A) TAI CHI FOR HEALING – 10 lesson intensive foundation course in ancient Laojia 9 form.

Covers all basics of tai chi. Saturdays and Sundays in March from 1-3pm. Course will be certificated.

Aim is to boost health of all participants in just one month. Peter Jenkinson is member of 20th Generation Chen Tai Chi Master Liu Yong International Association. Lessons to be held at Piyavan Tower, next to Ari station. Call Peter 086 0144050 or www.chentaichithailand.com (C) APT FOR RENT ON THE 27TH FLOOR of Asoke Place. 60 sq m one bedroom, one bathroom and one living room cum kitchen. 32000 baht per month. See for yourself at www.transum.org/ Asoke. Great view (C) BAR GUESTHOUSE, Fisherman’s Den 17-metre charter fishing boat, Same expate owner 12 yrs, great lifestyle and money earner. main street frontage modern building retireing due to health going concern $60,000 US 1,800,000 baht, contact Brian nzbrian@live.co.uk (C) THAI LESSONS: for foreign children or adults.

8-year-experienced with foreign students. Inhouse or coffee shop. time can be arranged. Free trial contact 084-119-6661 or email for more information at: na_ta_nie@yahoo.com (B) URGENT NEED – waiters, waiter, chef assistanse, casier. english speakers recommended for new restaurant which will be opening soon in bangkok, at sukhnvit soi 3. contact no.

0800474534, 0800595961 (B) AGUSTON SUKHUMVIT SOI 22 – urgent sale. 55 Sqm. I bed room condo, 9th floor. Fully furnished, balcony Sukhumvit city view. Price: 6.5 Million.

Contact: Mr. Jeetu 0897996909 (B) NEED BEER COASTERS? Check out my website www.franz-printing.com (C) TOWN HOME / HOME OFFICE – 160 sq.m. 10 min from BTS Mochit, MRT Bang Sue just next to expressway very convenient. High end developer

by Asian Property quick sale 0815633737 (C) YOU NEED TO LEARN ENGLISH? You need a good teacher! I am a native English speaker with a perfectly clear Midwestern American accent. I have a BA in Education and 35 years of teaching experience, much of it in Bangkok. My areas of expertise are ESL, Economics, Social Studies, World History, Psychology, Sociology, and examination preparation. Please write: pollydolly88@yahoo. com or call: 08-921-018-08. (L)