Mango Metro – Volume 9, Issue 1 – December 2014

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Volume 9, Issue No. 1

DECEMBER 2014 Published by

Mango Mango Ltd. Part. 124 Sukhumvit 38 Prakanong, Klongtoey Bangkok 10110 • Thailand Tel. 02 712 4052

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Artist’s House

and its Magical Puppets We explore Klong Bang Luang to find a spectacular link to Thailand’s past. BY DAVE STAMBOULIS

B

angkok recently staged a World Puppet Carnival with over 100 productions from 70 countries bringing the age old art of puppetry to town. It was nice to see the revival of a tradition passed down from generation to generation and sometimes seen as a disappearing art due to the onslaught of video games and electronic devices. It reminded me of one of Bangkok’s lesser known attractions and one that is to be commended for its efforts in keeping old Bangkok culture alive, that of the Baan Silapin Artist’s House in Thonburi and its excellent traditional puppet shows.

Klong Bang Luang is one of those sleepy wooden slats over the water communities that used to be the norm of Bangkok life and now engulfed by high rises, malls, and sprawling concrete. The wooden shophouses here have been around forever, with the owners usually found sitting out front, watching the canal flow languidly past. More recently longtail boat tours of the canals of Bangkok have sped past here as part of their itinerary, but now they are stopping, due to the recognition of Baan Silapin. Baan Silapin, better known as the Artist’s House is owned by Chumpol Akkapantanon, a painter who bought and restored several 200 year old wooden houses along the canal. As he says, “much of Bangkok has been destroyed by development, but life

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on the canal inspires a more simple way of living and shows off how the city used to be.” In addition to restoring the beautiful old wooden home, Akkapantanon turned it into a local art center, as well as a coffee house, where aspiring artists could hang out, learn, and create. The local community got behind the project as well, deciding that creative arts could keep its young people away from trouble and keep the tradition of local performing arts alive by teaching Thai puppetry and getting the young folks to become performers and pass on the lineage. Another artist friend, Supasit Wongrom-ngern, moved into the neighbourhood, rented a shophouse, and started teaching painting and making woodcuts. The traditional Thai puppet shows

here are performed almost daily, now attracting crowds of mostly urban Thais on the weekends coming out to play tourist along the atmospheric canal, although foreign visitors are also making their way here as well. Puppeteers dressed in black with black masks so as not to draw attention to themselves control the strings of lifelike marionette puppets, enacting Thai folktales and scenes from the Ramayana. The star of the show is usually the Hanuman monkey god puppet, who is always up to mischievous deeds, and true to Thai comedy, there is plenty of bawdry joking and audience interaction/participation with the puppeteers. The stage inside the house sits in front of an abandoned Buddhist temple, which makes the performance all the more atmospheric. You can sit



downstairs, but it’s also possible to wander upstairs where there is an art gallery full of paintings for sale, where you can peer over the balcony and get a great vantage point over the puppets and performers. As opposed to seeing expensive National Theatre renditions of Thai puppetry, or dealing with the crowds at the more than touristy Joe Louis Puppet Theatre, here you can watch the performers making the black plaster masks, rehearsing the katas (mantras) used in the shows, and best of all seeing the young troupes of kids who are involved in the theatre learning about dramatic art and hamming it up whenever they can. Thai theatrical puppetry, known as hun lakhon lek, has been around since the reign of Rama VI, and is really the only form of ancient puppetry (there used to be four) that is still performed today. The same attention to graceful manipulation of the puppets is still adhered to, with three performers needed to make the pulleys and levers on each puppet work smoothly. Men control the monkey and demon puppets, whereas women control the heroes and heroines. While the puppet show is the main attraction, the Artist’s House and Klong Bang Luang are attractions worth the trip alone. Local residents now hawk food and souvenir items along the wooden walkway, there are some tea and coffee shops, and in Baan Silapin, there are plenty of creative works available as gifts, along with a small eatery selling meals and snacks. For most visitors, it will be a side of Bangkok they have never seen, not to mention that the puppet show, which is free by the way (although donations are highly encouraged), deserves support so that this Thai tradition does not become a relic of the past. Baan Silapin 309 Phetkasem Soi 28 Road Tel: 02 8685279 Transport tip: The best way to get to Baan Silapin is to take the BTS to Bang Wa (last stop) and grab a taxi the rest of the way (tell the drivers Talad Nam Klong Bang Luang or Baan Silapin or Wat Kuhasawan, they ought to know at least one of these.

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s T H G I N Y T PAR

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MANGO NIGHTS

SINGING THE MEKONG DELTA BLUES Critical darlings Krom are ready to play Bangkok Cambodian band Krom are finally arriving on Thai shores this month promising to provide a soundtrack to the Asia Noir genre that has so firmly established itself in the capital over recent years. Combining guitarist and singer Christopher Minko with two Khmer vocalist sisters, Sophea and Sopheak Chamroeun, Krom have won plaudits the world over. One BBC music reviewer has described it as “it’s low key, melancholia - dark noir music from a place, Cambodia, that’s been through tough, terrible times but it’s utterly, utterly fantastic music.” Unsurprisingly, Minko, in an interview with Mango Metro, does not demur from the description. ”Many of the Krom songs describe the under belly of South East Asia, the dark side,” he says. “We touch on pressing social issues, such as human trafficking and sexual slavery within some of the Krom songs, and Krom songs take

the listener on a walk down a one way street to the edge. “Krom songs speak for themselves and are the accumulation of experiences of my 25 years of living in South East Asia. Krom also has two of Cambodia’s leading vocalists who add a remarkable musical edge of mysticism to the Krom songs. Many of Krom’s songs are based on the dark under belly of that truly unique city called Bangkok.” Indeed, Minko says that Krom is seeking to forge a new original sound he calls the ‘Mekong Delta blues’. “All Krom songs are original compositions and are built around acoustic guitar delta blues picking combined with the unique traditional vocal skills of Cambodia, which has a remarkable musical culture,” he adds. “Krom’s sound is ever evolving which our followers will hear on the third album, which fo-

cuses on the delta blues. Each Krom album has its own meaning. The first album, Songs From The Noir was composed in deep depression after the death of my Thai wife, the album is dedicated to her. The second album, Neon Dark, continues the dark vein of Krom songs but also showcases the remarkable vocal talents of the Chamroeun sisters Sophea and Sopheak.” Indeed, Sopheak recently became a national celebrity in her homeland having been a finalist in Cambodia’s first Voice competition. Minko says that after its Thailand tour, planned for the 3rd week of December with at least three dates in Bangkok, Krom is planning to perform at Womad UK followed by a tour of Germany and France. “We hope to return to Bangkok two or three times in 2015, after the release of our third album,” he promises.

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MANGO NIGHTS

THE GYPSY LIFE

The members of Jenny & The Scallywags bring a diverse set of influences to their performance

I

f there is a more eclectic and diverse trio of musicians playing the stages of Bangkok than Jenny & The Scallywags we have yet to see it. Employing an electric guitar, acoustic guitar and ukelele, the Scallywags range a musical terrain that spans Led Zeppelin, the Beatles, Britney Spears, Daft Punk and Keane. And the three members themselves – Jenny Lackgren, Charlie McSkallywag and Adam Sharpe – come from different generations and, indeed, continents.Sharpe was a young lad in Britain in the 1990s when he was inspired into music by none other than the Gallagher brothers. "Definitely What's The Story, Morning Glory encouraged me to pick up a guitar and changed the way I looked at music,” he says. “It made me very passionate about indie rock. I got a songbook about Oasis and just learned every single track as the fanboi that I was." For McSkallywag it was a chance encounter with a gypsy in his native Australia at a tender age that did the trick. "I was five years of age and I met a gypsy who was playing the flamenco guitar,” he says. “I stood there and looked at him and said, that's what I want to be. To do music for a living you need to be prepared to live as a

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gypsy and by those principles. "At an early age I started to understand that live music can be a very magical and positive thing. It has to come from the heart, even if it is a broken heart. Broken hearts write the best songs although magical Bob Marley elixirs of life do help as well" For Lackgren it was her extraordinary upbringing as one of twelve siblings to a Swedish father and Thai mother growing up in Thailand. "My dad always made the 12 of us play music as kids, and for me it was a decision of wanting to perform later in life,” she explains. “I started playing music professionally when I was 18 and before that I was busking with my family. When I was 18 my sister and I played in Krabi, people loved it and we went from there." Just a few years later, Lackgren hit the big time when she appeared on The Voice Thailand, the YouTube video of which is now nearing a heady two million views. But she hasn't forgotten where she comes from, nominating her own family recordings as what she would take with her when asked the proverbial Desert Island Discs question.

For now, Jenny & The Scallywags are playing around town at venues as diverse as the Sportsman and Fat Gutz and doing their bit to make an eclectic covers selection just that little bit more interesting. One recent evening saw them, for example, segue from Somewhere Over The Rainbow into Royals, the recent No.1 hit by NZ chanteuse of the moment, Lorde. "It's hard to get an emotional connection with Bangkok audiences because often people just want covers. Back in London if I played an open mic night they would watch me! But here it seems there are so many distractions for an audience," says Sharpe. "What I would like is more venues that encourage people to take in the music, in the same way that people pay respect to the talent at a comedy night. That's why we have a drive for covers because it gets engagement from the audience.” "We are not an average cover band," adds Lackgren. "We do originals, we do covers in an original way. The covers we do are not very mainstream and that is our selling point."


MANGO NIGHTS

LEARNING THAI WITH A TWIST

Shaun Deer is using an informal pub setting to conduct his unique lessons

Walk into Sukhumvit Soi 16's Queen Bee pub and you will encounter the strangest of sights: rows of farangs sitting classroom-style taking notes but with beers and wines by their side. Upfront, a sprightly middle aged Australian named Shaun Deer who is teaching them Thai, while often jumping around like a small animal or lapsing into children's song. Welcome to the weird and wonderful world of Thai lessons in a pub, 2014 style. "Lessons are informal, relaxed, friendly and what's best, in a pub," exclaims Deer. ”Lasting up to 90 minutes, those attending are given handouts, a few laughs, a chance to practice and ask questions (and beer or wine should they order some). There’s a mixture of Beginners, Reading Thai, Games Nights and some more advanced sessions running from Sunday to Wednesday early evenings.”

“As a native English Speaker who has been through the process, I feel I am able to explain Thai in a way that foreigners here find easy to understand. I am able to provide great help in the art of Thai pronunciation though a few beers too Deer says that once people are over the fact he is many and even their English can be hard to work a farang teaching Thai that they are quite accept- out.” ing of his classes. "They are surprised that I don’t have antlers,” he But part of the attraction of Deer's lessons comes says. “People will leave with the satisfaction that from the fact he is more than a teacher. they have learnt a lot. I have taught English and Phonics to Thais for 15 years. "I am a comic and performer at heart and have

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“ There are songs with actions to help kids learn, fun characters like Angry Alligator, Robot and Boxing Fox and my own character Shaun the Deer partially inspired by Mrs Doubtfire who leads the live show and planned TV show! It has become my life’s main passion."

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Open-fronted and newly refurbished. Pool table, fans, fridges, 2 x TV, etc. Books provided and available to genuine buyers. Sukhumvit.

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Small Salon in new Condo complex of over 750 rooms. Fully equipped, air-conditioned, with its own toilet. Rent is only 25,000 baht a month.

Laundry and Dry Cleaning Service (Agency) with coin operated washing machines and dryers. Machines area open 24/7. In Condo Building of over 750 rooms.

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taken steps to make that my career by combining teaching children English and Phonics by developing a music and comedy based learning concept - basically a more wacky and edgy version of the Wiggles,” Deer says.

Probably the largest gymnasium in Thailand. Would suit either a silent investor or a 'hands-on' active partner willing to help grow the business.

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24 beds over 4 levels, within a short walk of the BTS. A/C, TVs, Washing Machine, etc, Listed with Booking Agents, all ready to trade for the high season.

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MANGO BITES

PLA DIB The outdoor dining area is immediately visible from the street – on weekends, the breakfast crowd tend to fill the benches mounted on the polished concrete. To one side is Pla Dib’s coffee shop, where they roast their own beans and sell some very swanky imported chocolate. Frankly it fills like the home kitchen of one of your friends who is obvious with gourmet ingredients and designer kitchenware. That is to say, it’s great, and probably much nicer than your actually apartment. Set back from the coffee shop is the bar and dining room, another low-lit minimalist space full of unfinished wood and wrought iron furnishings. And then, out the back, is one of Pla Dib’s most unique features: their backyard aquaponically powered garden. Several large drums of fish produce enough fertiliser to keep the fruit, vegetables and herbs growing nicely, all in the shades of several healthy-looking banana trees. The menu is tailored to all-day dining so

there are pages of sandwiches and salad and upscale brunch options. As noted, Pla Dib is perhaps busiest during the day on weekends. That said, the options for evening dining are fairly sophisticated in their own right. One of the real stand-outs is the platter of assorted sashimi, with brilliantly fresh salmon, tuna and prawn lined up alongside one another.

Certainly, when people in the know talk about how much they love Ari, about how it hits all the right notes in terms of taste and style.

BAO & BUNS

There’s already a booming street food scene in Bangkok and Bao & Buns, in the backstreets of Asoke, takes a Taiwanese street food staple and serves it in a cafe setting. There’s a compact menu on offer here as well as an interesting selection of craft beers from around the world. But, ultimately, it’s all about the bao and, fortunately, they’re excellent.

The two staples are the original pork belly and the deep-fried crispy chicken, both going for a very reasonable 90 baht. The fillings here really are top quality. The chicken is lip-smackingly good while the pork belly is rich and fairly lean. This place is a brilliant option for a hearty snack before a night of drinking. Of course, it’s better than simply something to soak up the booze - this place has the potential to become a local favourite. BAO & BUNS 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33 090-950-1666 facebook.com/baoandbuns

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Pla Dib 1/1 soi areesamphan 7 phraram 6 02-279-8185 facebook.com/pladib.restaurant


MANGO BITES g enin p o New

OSHA

This new arrival among Bangkok’s collection of fine dining Thai restaurants makes a bold impression - a swanky foyer flows in a cavernous main dining room, where the tables are laid out as circular booths. The effect is stunning and ensures Osha sets the bar high. After being founded 17 years ago in San Francisco by two Thai sisters, Osha has now pitched in Bangkok, offering familiar Thai dishes but with modern, molecular innovations. The question mark is whether this concept does enough heavy lifting - sometimes it feels like a bit of a half measure. One of the winners is the sous vide egg topped with white truffle oil and caviar, which creates a real offset both in terms of taste and texture. The poached Andaman oyster with MhaNoi leaf jelly and kaffir lime foam is also excellent. Foams and infusions can be overused but the extra flavours here are deliv-

ered to real effect, offsetting the natural taste of the seafood. More substantial fare includes the dancing king prawns, served as a ceviche with cucumber and red radish carpaccio, also exquisitely presented. Less successful is the pad thai; frankly, it shouldn’t be on the menu of any Thai restaurant that is really trying to push the en-

velope. And whatever innovation brought to bear feels like window dressing. It is, essentially, a cafe-style pad thai.

OSHA 99 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd 02-256-6555 facebook.com/oshabangkok

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MANGO BITES

This strikingly designed indoor-outdoor restaurant on Ari’s main drag was well and truly ahead of its time when it first arrived. Even a few years later, it has lost nothing of its trendy, contemporary atmosphere. The four glass walls of the main room mean the proprietors don’t have to overdo it on the interior lighting, allowing an ambient glow to create a welcoming, convivial atmosphere.

SALT

The cocktails are innovatively presented and strike a balance between the fruitier, more brightly coloured fare and the more reserved, vintage tipples. In short, whatever your tastes, Salt have put together a well-rounded cocktail list that is likely to appeal. The menu is broadly international but encompasses modern European touches and Asian flavours. For example, the excellent Wagyu steak comes mounted on a wooden platter, with a side of wasabi. The pizzas, although more straightforward, are no less enticing. The imposing wood-fired oven in one corner of the decking produces deliciously crispy thincrusted examples – there’s none of the thick, doughy nonsense you’ll find at some places. There’s also a fantastic selection of seafood, including the spicy yakisoba with shrimp, as well as brilliantly zingy assorted of sashimi. The focus is too broad for Salt to really work as a ‘concept restaurant’ but the presentation and execution are so consistently good that it doesn’t really matter. For any exploring Ari, Salt is undoubtedly one of the highlights of this up-and-coming area.

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Salt 36/2 Phahonyothin Soi 7 02-619-6886 facebook.com/SaltAree


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CARDIAC ARRHYTHMIA: ESSENTIAL KNOWLEDGE FOR HEALTHY HEARTS What is an arrhythmia? What causes the condition? What are its symptoms? And how is it treated? We consulted Dr. Chotikorn Khunnawat, a US-board certified cardiologist and electrophysiologist at Bumrungrad with many years of experience treating patients with cardiac arrhythmia, to learn what everyone should know about arrhythmias and the ways to reduce your personal risk of a future problem.

Too slow, too fast A healthy heart beats 60 to 100 times per minute in a steady, even rhythm. The upper and lower chambers of the heart beat together in a synchronized rhythm. Cardiac arrhythmia describes an irregular rhythm – the heart beats too fast, too slow, unevenly, or feels as if it’s skipping some beats. Dr. Chotikorn emphasises that a heartbeat that’s too fast or too slow doesn’t necessarily pose a serious threat. “If the heart is beating irregularly, a physician will determine the specific nature of the arrhythmia,” he explains. “If it is because of extra beats from the upper or lower chamber of the heart and no sign of blockage of coronary artery and the heart pumping function is normal, the situation isn’t likely to be harmful. But for patients with atrial fibrillation, which usually occurs in older patients, there is more potential for harm – especially for older patients diagnosed with underlying diseases such as diabetes or high blood pressure.”

Diagnosing arrhythmias Some arrhythmias are diagnosed after the patient experiences symptoms like palpitations, dizziness, lightheadedness or fainting and decides to see a doctor. It’s quite common though, especially among patients in good health, for an arrhythmia to produce only minor symptoms – or none at all. Diagnosis begins with a review of the patient’s medical history. “When an arrhythmia is suspected,” Dr. Chotikorn explains, “the doctor conducts a physical examination to see whether the rhythm of the heart, the heart sound and the size of the heart are normal or not, followed by conducting laboratory blood screenings including thyroid function, and diagnostic tests such as EKG.” Dr. Chotikorn continues: “If these tests don’t reveal the arrhythmia, the doctor may carry out other tests to capture the arrhythmia. The doctor may have the patient wear a 24-hour Holter monitor to record the heart’s activity during a patient’s normal daily activity. If the arrhythmias are intermittent, the patient can be given the event monitor which can record the arrhythmia during symptoms by a simple trigger placed on the chest area to record the rhythm.”

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Arrhythmia treatments Several arrhythmia treatment options are available depending on the nature of the arrhythmia and the patient’s individual health situation. Patients taking medication for other conditions that cause arrhythmia may be required to temporarily stop the medication. For arrhythmias caused by thyroid disorders, your doctor may recommend treating the thyroid condition first. When advanced coronary artery disease is present, your doctor may recommend revascularization such as balloon angiography or coronary artery bypasses surgery treatment. “The initial treatment normally starts with medication. If the medication fails to control the arrhythmia or causes side effects, or the patient does not want to take medication, the doctor may recommend radiofrequency catheter ablation treatment. During this procedure, one or more catheters are inserted into the patient’s blood vessels to reach the heart. Electrodes at the catheter tips can generate the heat with radiofrequency energy. The heating process causes the abnormal area of the heart muscle to injure and become a scar and ends up curing the arrhythmia, and patients are able to discontinue their medication.” If the precise cause of the slow heartbeat can’t be determined — such as when thyroid hormone disorders and drug side effects have been ruled out — doctors may opt for treatment involving a pacemaker. And if it isn’t possible to speed up the heart using medication, your doctor may recommend insertion of an automatic defibrillator,

a device that monitors your heart rhythm and, when it detects this becoming too slow, jolts the heart back into a healthy rhythm similar to how a pacemaker works.

Keeping a healthy rhythm Many heart arrhythmias are preventable. The best way to reduce your arrhythmia risk is to follow your doctor’s advice for healthier lifestyle habits and get regular check-ups. But in the event you experience arrhythmia-like symptoms – heart palpitations, shortness of breath, chest pains, or feeling faint – seek urgent medical attention. Paying attention to your heart and making healthier choices will help your body’s hardest working muscle maintain a healthy rhythm for many years to come.


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CLASSIFIEDS MARKETPLACE Advertise or announce anything for... FREE!

Max. 75 words. Listings run as space allows or until cancelled.

Email your ad to: dsbkk@mangometro.com

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BUY MY CAR Model: Proton - Savvy. Engine: Toyota Altis (1.5 L) Total Milage: 180,000 Km. Insurance & Road Tax valid until Nov, 2015. Car bought: Nov, 2008. Car in good condition and asking price of 100,000 non-negotiable. Contact : +6687 497 6557 email: anshuman.tripathy@ gmail.com (L)

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DECEMBER 2014

AUTOPARTS – Toyota, Isuzu, Nissan, car and pick up. We both Original Equipment Manufacturing (OEM) and Replacement Equipment Manufacturing (REM). Ganranteed quality and low price every day, special for wholesaler and exporter. Phone: 081447-1478 (K) MODERN CONDO from studio-3bedroom unit in Rachadamri area and walk to skytrain station, rent from 18000Baht/month m. 095-948-7221. (L)

BUY OR RENT my condo: (im available almost every day around 3pm for visit. Just give me a call 0830169033. Aspace Condo Asok rama9 near MRT RAMA 9 at 8 min walk. 36sqm. Rent: 12,000, For Sale: 2,400,000 baht. Contact olivier: 0830169033, email: olivier@thebangkokgroup. com (L)

L P N CONDO FOR RENT AND SALE on th 8th floor conner 60.23sq.m tower E. 1 living room. 2 balconys. furnished.in modern light /fresh style rent 20,000B per month . for sale 60.000THB per sq. Meter. swimming pool.sauna.fitness.close MRT. contact joe 0898705009 easy1624@ hotmail.com (K) ATTENTION APPLE FANS - I have a PowerMac G5 and LCD monitor will make great price call now it won’t last-0856663822 Scott (J)

TREADMILLS, CROSS-TRAINERS, BIKES AND MORE...

APT IN SUKHUMVIT SOI FOR RENT. 2 bedrooms + 1 study room, 2 bahtrooms. 118 sqm. F/F, open kitchen bright on 9th FL. Rent: B 33,000/month call 0813070618 Lee (J) 45 SQM CONDO AT THE MARKLAND soi 1 pattaya sew view for rent nice pool near for every think only 15000 bath monthly please call 0878009370 (J) LUXURIOUS CONDO For Rent at The River – 1 Bedroom with ensuite & separate cloakroom, balcony, lounge and dining Kitchen. 100 sqm. Garden, river and city views. Fully furnished & equipped. WiFi & Expat TV. The most prestigious condo in Bangkok. Parking place, 7 pools, 2 gyms & extensive gardens. Available 6-month lease, renewable on a month to month basis. Please contact me by email at riverbkkapartment@outlook. (L)

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CONDO FOR RENT – Top View Tower, Sukhumvit 59. 119 sqm, 19th Fl., 2 bedrooms + 1 Study/working room, 2 bathrooms, Swimming Pool, Badminton Court, Squash Court, Gym, Walking distance to Thonglor BTS Station. Ready to move in. Rent 35,000 B/month. Contact owner, Call 087-139-8775 (K) BRAND NEW BEACHFRONT Sansiri Hua Hin condo for sale - Baan San Ngam 76 sqm 2 bedroom unit on ground floor with large balcony (good for barbeques and easy access to freeform pool). It’s one of the few ground floor unit with sea view. Ready to transfer. Selling at pre-sales price of THB 6,890,000 (20% below Sansiri developer market selling price). Contact Ron 085-123-0738 or ranviras@yahoo.com. (K) AN ULTRASONIC, GALVANIC ION equipment “Dione” for face massage, face lifting, body cellulise reduce and face deep cleaning sell with CD and manual real price 9,990.- sell 3,000.- (092) 3180436 or vinn2003@hotmail.com (J) 2 EDROOMS, 2 BATHROOMS, BALCONY,86 sqm, 21 floor, Sukhmvit soi 11. Beautifull view, swimming pool, jym room, kids play area. For rent: 30000BHT. For sell: 7.5 MB. Tel: O819265544. Mail: Idit@irpc. net (J)


BUY 1 GET 1 FREE EVERY TUESDAY From 6pm

TIGER PINTS 99 Baht 3.30-8pm



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