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A GEEK IN THAI LAND

Photos by Jody Houton or sourced from Flickr.com & used under Creative Commons commercial license.

The Beautiful Fight A slightly less well-known traditional Thai game is fish-fighting. Yes, fish-fighting. Fish-fighting typically takes place in the countryside as it is not allowed within the city limits. The Siamese fighting fish is a species of the gourami family.

Men line up with their birds to find out whose bird can sing the loudest

WEIRD AND WONDERFUL THAI PASTIMES Although the younger generation of Thais are now more likely to go to coffeeshops and shopping malls and watch American movies and English football matches, a sizable number, especially in the rural areas, still indulge in traditional Thai pastimes.

Know Why it Sings One of the strangest but most endearing hobbies enjoyed by Thai men is birdsinging. Competitions are held regularly up and down the kingdom, not just in the countryside. It is quite common to see a Thai expertly steering his motorcycle with one hand while holding a birdcage with a blanket draped over it in the other on their way to an event. Sometimes competitions are separated into different categories according to bird species, at other times it’s a mixed event. The aim, however, is always the same—to see whose bird can sing the loudest. There

are subtle differences in judging. In one particular event, a bird needs to ‘trill’ a certain number of times, while in another the winning bird is decided on how often it jumps up and down in its cage. Birdcages are arranged in two rows, with each cage facing another. Owners must keep their distance but are allowed to scream and call out to their bird as much as they like, which invariably they do. Often the owners are much louder than the birds! This curious event can attract up to hundreds from the neighborhood and is well worth looking out for. It is a serious pastime, with sometimes money at stake.

It is popular as an aquarium fish but is aggressive towards its own species. Called pla kad (biting fish) in Thai, it is a beautiful, flamboyant, multicolored fish native to the Mekong River. The irony is that the beauty of the Siamese fighting fish and its full array of colors can only be seen when it is agitated and preparing to fight. When the two agreed upon fish are placed in a tall, narrow jar and come face to face, their fins and gills extend in size and their colors become deeper and more vibrant. The fish bite one another, often locking their mouths together, while they wrestle and flip around inside the jar. Once one fish retreats, the match is over. Only the males fight and are often bred specifically for the purpose.

The Sport of Gambling Although gambling in Thailand is restricted to the state lottery, horse-racing and a few select Muay Thai stadiums, all of the above activities as well as the English Premier League are common fodder for betting. Indeed, viewing the frenetic pace with which gamblers place bets and exchange information is part and parcel of the intoxicating atmosphere at a Thai sporting event.

BULLFIGHTING Thai Style Thai bullfighting is without the pomp and ceremony you might see at a bullfight in Spain. There are no matadors, spears or red rags, just a simple arena with two bulls in the middle surrounded by jeering spectators. Thankfully, very few bullfights result in death. Much like Thai cockfighting, a match is usually brought to an end when one of the animals gives up and runs away. There’s more snorting, horn-locking and hoof-scraping than there are collisions between the two 1,000-pound (450 kg) animals, so it’s a lot like sumo wrestling of the animal world.

CC Photo: contibull

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An array of Buddhist amulets

Another is palad khik, which is a phallus charm made of wood. In the past, it was worn around the neck to ward off evil. Nowadays, specific symbols are crafted onto phalluses and mean different things. For example, a monkey carved on a phallus represents quickness and agility, while a naked lady carved on a phallus attracts love and kindness.

Talismans CC Photo: dennis (yang)

CC Photo: kthypryn

Cock

of the North

A slightly darker event involving birds, which is also popular throughout Thailand, is cockfighting. From the countryside of Phetchaburi to the city of Bangkok, men in their hundreds turn up every week to these events. It’s illegal to gamble in Thailand apart from state lotteries and at government sponsored events, so unless the event is organized by the government, such as the Festival for the Preservation of Thai Cock Fighting in Samut Prakan, any gambling that is done in the arena is technically illegal. A typical cockfighting event begins with the owners weighing their respective roosters in order to find suitable opponents. Sometimes blades are attached to the ankles, sometimes not.

There’s an Amulet for That Thai males wear amulets with the same exhibitionism and pride that disco lovers wore medallions in the 1970s. Amulets differ in appearance, size and shape and can be purchased at temples or in designated amulet alleys or stores. The price of an amulet depends on which monk it is blessed by, where it is from and how old it is. Different amulets are available depending on what type of fortune, protection or power the wearer wishes the amulet to bring. Amulets depicting Buddha, gods or revered monks, in particular, are known to bring luck and provide protective powers to the wearer. Whether for luck with love, money or school exams, a suitable amulet will be available.

A popular talisman seen hanging on walls is a spider, which is believed to help trap customers. It is also quite common to keep amulets and images of monks in money boxes. Some shopkeepers, especially those from rural areas, keep palad khik in money boxes or on prominent display in their store. Another popular talisman for businesses is nang kwak (Beckoning Lady), which takes the form of a beautiful Thai woman kneeling and beckoning with her hand. As you can imagine, this ‘household divinity’ is also meant to bring wealth and good fortune to a business. On rare occasions you can see hybrid talismans, for example, of a beckoning penis.

A typical amulet can sell for around 100 baht (US$3), but there are some that can be as expensive as 1 million baht (US$32,000). The amulet business is not to be taken lightly and there are magazines, forums and communities dedicated to the trade. Love charms (koo) blessed by sorcerers can also be purchased in Thailand. A koo charm may depict a couple having sex and is supposed to give the wearer untold powers of attraction to the opposite sex.

Shoppers peruse the latest amulets at a market in Bangkok

In Thailand there is a no ‘fighting to the death‘ rule, so when a cock either sustains a serious injury or runs out of the ring twice, the match is called off.

This month’s story is an excerpt from the book A Geek in Thailand (Tuttle Publishing) by Jody Houton, 160 pages. It is available for purchase at Asia Books and Kinokuniya bookstores throughout Thailand.

If visitors to Thailand want to learn more about this ancient traditional sport and see what goes into training the cocks, there is a Cockfighting Learning and Exhibition Center in Chiang Mai. CC Photo: jasoneppink

Shopkeepers also keep all manner of talismans and trinkets in the hope that they might bring prosperity to their business. Many of the talismans have their origins in traditional folklore and are of Buddhist, animist and Chinese god characters.

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know it all!), then go straight to the bookstore and get A Geek in Thailand. It’ll save you from getting into too much trouble (as you probably would) and even more, save everyone’s face.

In Review A Geek in Thailand

By Voicu Mihnea Simandan | Photos by Nootchada Cham When those into Asian history and martial arts hear the word “Tuttle,” the first thing that comes to mind is Tuttle Publishing, which is “regarded as the premier publisher and seller of books rooted in Asian culture.” Over the years, they have brought to light thousand of titles with diverse topics, especially ones about Japan. But with time, they have spread their interest in other Asian nations (plus Australia and the U.S.), including Thailand. Tuttle’s latest addition to their growing back catalog of books about the Land of Smiles is A Geek in Thailand. Discovering the Land of Golden Buddhas, Pad Thai and Kickboxing (2016, 160 pages) by Jody Houton. The book is actually part of a collection for travel “geeks” that started in 2011 with A Geek in Japan. Discovering the Land of Manga, Anime, Zen, and the Tea Ceremony, which was followed in 2014 by A Geek in Korea. Discovering Asia’s New Kingdom of Cool. By just reading the titles in this “franchise”, the reader can easily guess the kind of book they’re going to read. Published in excellent condition, with shiny pages in full colors and paperback with flaps, Jody Houton stayed true to

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the first two books and has delivered an entertaining, light-hearted, and informative coffee-table book. Packed with hundreds of colored photographs, tidbits of information, and great articles and interviews, A Geek in Thailand shows the good, the bad, and the ugly of Thai culture and civilization. Written in a very personable style by an expatriate who has been in Thailand for years and has navigated the job market extensively, this book has the potential of becoming a cult book, just like Philip-Cornwel Smith’s Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture. After a bit of “Harmony, Disorder and Smiles”, in which Jody Houton tells us about how he got to call Thailand his second home, we move on to the meaty part of the book. A Geek in Thailand is divided into seven chapters, each dealing with a particular aspect of what “Thai” really means. There’s basically something on everything, from Thai history and culture to food and craftsmanship, with everything you can possibly think of in-between. There’s a strong interest in Thai popular culture, with excellent insights into Thai movies, music, and theatre, as well as the dichot-

Are you Thai and do you have a good grasp of the English language? Then this book should also be on your coffee table. Don’t assume that just because it’s your country and that the book was written by a foreigner, it is not worth reading. I challenge you to read it and I guarantee that, by Chapter 2, you will have already learned tons of new things about your own country. The amount of information available in A Geek in Thailand. Discovering the Land of Golden Buddhas, Pad Thai and Kickboxing by Jody Houton is so abundant that it is best you read the book over a few sittings. That way, you’ll be able to muse over the wonders of Thai life, and once you’re done

omy between the proverbial Thai politeness and the reality of foreigners working in office jobs in Thailand. What gives even more power to Houton’s book are the interviews he has conducted with leading members and game changers of Thai contemporary society. Foremost are the interviews with Kong Rithdee, a well-known Thai film critic, or Ajarn Aum, a fashionable lady who “prepares Thai women, and a few Thai men, for a career in the sky.” So, who’s this book for then? You will be surprised how, even if you’ve been in Thailand for more than a decade, you’ll still find tons of intriguing facts about Thailand that you didn’t know. For example, did you know that there are also a (very) few foreigner-registered rescue workers who serve in the greater Bangkok area? If you’re a tourist who has just gotten off the plane or are a newbie who’s been in Thailand for just a few months (and think you

digesting it all, decide by yourself if you are also a geek in Thailand. The book is available at Asia Books and Kinokuniya bookstores, as well as on the publisher’s website (www.tuttlepublishing.com) and Amazon. If you want to see what else Jody Houton writes about, visit his website (jodyhouton. contently.com) or follow him on Twitter @jodyhouton.

Healthy aging

By Dr. Lily Chaisompong, Geriatrician and Internist, New Life Healthy Aging Clinic, Bumrungrad Hospital

There are plenty of healthy habits you can incorporate into your daily routine during your younger years that reduce the chances of developing chronic diseases. But what do you do when you are suffering from an age-related disease? As you grow older, it becomes increasingly important to take care of your health so that you can live life to the fullest.

Common elderly health issues

Be your best in your golden years by actively seeking out holistic care specifically designed for aging adults. As we age, our body’s abilities to do everyday functions begin to slowly deteriorate. There are age-related changes in our vision and hearing that include failing eyesight and hearing loss. Our skeletal and muscular systems begin deteriorating, resulting in brittle bones from osteoporosis and reduced strength. There is a decrease in functionality of our immune and nervous systems that can lead to dizziness, imbalance, and neurodegenerative disease. There is also memory loss and confusion, sleeping problems, as well as longer recovery periods after becoming sick. Let’s not forget about the complex oral health care required to maintain dentures, bridges, and crowns that replace failing teeth, or the inconvenience of irregular bowel movements or incontinence.

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As we grow older, chronic diseases also surface. These include high blood pressure, heart disease, diabetes, hypertension, arthritis, and obesity. Even though these conditions are nearly preventable with proper habits in the early years of your life, older adults who suffer with these chronic health issues still need special care. These usually can be treated, and managed by proper medica- For example, patients who are diagnosed with tion. osteoporosis can reduce their chances of fracturing or breaking a bone by following a doctor’s Benefits of holistic care for older adults advice on proper dieting, exercise routines, and Generally speaking, adults over the age of 65 medications (if necessary) that can help to inrequire and receive medical care more than any crease bone density. other age group. Healthy aging begins with holistic care that specifically targets medical issues Drug interactions are a problem for patients at that affect older patients. This is a special blend of any age, but they are especially prominent in primary healthcare and preventative healthcare older patients because of the high likelihood of that can go a long way to keeping you healthy being prescribed multiple medications. Re-evaland active well into old age. uating your current medications and their dosages also helps to maximize the benefits of your Bumrungrad’s New Life Healthy Aging Clinic aims prescription and may even eliminate, reduce, or to meet that demand and provide specific servic- change certain medications as new types bees for aging adults. Older patients can receive ser- come available. vices such as special screenings for early memory impairment, osteoporosis, and depression; vacci- Older patients can also benefit from advice about nations and optimized medical dosages; as well maneuvering around their home. Replacing as special guidance for pre and postoperative stairs with ramps, mounting rails in hallways and in bathrooms, and installing an intercom system care. are all upgrades that make your home a more Our experienced physicians, clinical nurses, clini- convenient place to live. cal pharmacists, nutritionists, and physical therapists work together as a team to provide the best Don’t settle for old age. With proper health care care and management for these complex health management, you can feel younger and happier for longer than ever. issues.

Bringing Up Baby A morning for all parents and parents-to-be On Saturday, March 19 9 am to 2 pm Conference Room A & B, 21st Floor Bumrungrad Clinic Building 9.30 am: Allergies in children allergies from Dr. Patarin Jaovisidha and Dr. Wilawan Watewai, pediatric allergists and immunologists.

10.15 am: Activities for children

Get to know the latest family-friendly activities in Bangkok with Karmen Chandontrikij, the founder of BKK Kids.

shows exercises you can do together with your baby.

11.15 am: Breastfeeding 101

Breastfeeding tips for mothers and their partners by Emma McNerlin, UK-registered midwife and BAMBI Co-coordinator.

Fdmriesseion!

A Event activities:

• Babywearing with Cari Aleta- Chou • Doula Help Desk by Doulas of Bangkok

• BAMBI Playgroup for babies and toddlers with toys provided by ENGINOU • Baby massage by ICHI Baby Center

Meet other parents, share your parenting adventure, chat with our experts over

RSVP online: www.bumrungrad.com/bringing-up-baby-event-2016 For more information: winnie@bumrungrad.com

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When You’re Too Young for Knee Replacement Surgery By Sr Gp Capt Dr. Chumroonkiet Leelasestaporn, Orthopedic Surgeon, Joint Replacement Center, Bumrungrad Hospital

If you’re suffering from chronic knee pain because of overuse, an injury, or a degenerative disease such as osteoarthritis, what are your options for relief? Although many patients, particularly those that are middle aged, fear that the immediate and finite answer is knee replacement surgery – this shouldn’t be the primary choice. During knee replacement surgery, surgeons replace the damaged or diseased knee joint with a mechanical implant made of metal and plastic composites that act as a joint. Since this is an invasive procedure and requires a lengthy recovery period, both patients and doctors agree that this should be only offered after other less obtrusive treatments have been explored. This is especially true for younger or active patients, which include people between the ages of 45 and 60 who show signs of chronic knee pain, but are looking for relief without surgery. Here are several alternatives that can relieve chronic knee pain:

Lose weight

strengthen the muscles surrounding the knee, as well teach you the proper positioning and form when doing exercises.

Injections

There are several different injections that tempo- Another popular technique is acupuncture. This rarily lessen or eliminate chronic knee pain, and traditional Chinese medicinal technique uses increase mobility as well: long thin needles to alleviate pain by impacting nerves. A steroid or cortisone shot reduces pain, fluid buildup, and inflammation of the knee joint, giv- Arthroscopic surgery ing your body a chance to heal. The effects are This type of surgery, which is much less invasive nearly immediate and can last anywhere from than total knee replacement surgery, is used to two to three months. However, these can be repair tendons and cartilage in the knee, as well harmful to your joints if used too frequently. as flush out bone fragments or cartilage pieces that may be causing pain. This is done by using a Hyaluronic acid injections provide lubrication be- very thin tube with a special video camera on its tween the joints, which is necessary for the bone end to view the condition of your knee. and cartilage of the knee to glide smoothly across each another without grinding together. Hyalu- Every patient is different. Speak with your docronic acid also acts as a shock absorber. However, tor to see which treatment is right for you. Your this is typically offered to people after they have doctor will take into account any complications gone through steroid injections and physical of which you are at risk, along with the degree of therapy without success, or if they are allergic to pain and impaired function. certain pain killers.

Conclusion

Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) is another option for However, if a patient has gone through consecuyoung patients with articular cartilage lesions. tive failed treatments, it is then appropriate to The injected of concentrated platelets accelerate proceed with knee replacement surgery. the body’s own healing process in the knee joint. Knee replacement surgery is now possible in Holistic therapy younger patients because of the improved qualNatural supplements such as glucosamine and ity of knee prosthetics, along with the improved chondroitin provide temporary joint pain relief surgical technology and surgical techniques – Physical therapy by creating a cushion between the diseased or which altogether increase the longevity of the Working with a physical therapist can help to degenerative bone and the surrounding tissue. prosthesis. One of the quickest, most effective ways to reduce knee pain is to lose weight. Excess weight puts unnecessary stress and pressure on the joints, particularly those of the lower body such as the hips, knees, and ankles. Even shedding a few kilograms can lead to a noticeable reduction in pain.

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Near the base of Mount Halla, right across the street from a Jehovah’s Witnesses office, you’ll find Loveland. It’s the most famous attraction on Jeju Island, the closest thing Korea has to its own Hawaii. It’s a little hard to categorize what Loveland really is – a museum, an art project, or just socially acceptable porn? – but it definitely isn’t subtle. Once you step inside the gate, you’re surrounded by sculpture after sculpture depicting nakedness and lust. Most of these life-sized displays feature couples in the act of satisfying that lust with reckless abandon, but some are alone and waiting desperately for a Loveland visitor to step into position for them.

South K rea A Feast for the Senses

B y

S t e v e

C a l l e r a m e

Winter brings a sharp chill to South Korea, the kind of biting cold that shocks the skin after the lazy heat of sun-scorched Thailand. I’d traveled around the peninsula before, but I had a different sort of trip planned this time around. In any country, there are discoveries to be made even by the most jaded visitor; one need only go looking for them. And in Korea, there was a unique place I’d wanted to see for quite some time.

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There are a few indoor sections in the complex, with other kinds of toys and novelties you’d find in a sex shop. Some are for display, some for sale. In a culture generally known for its religious sensibilities, demanding schools and conservative social structures, it’s good to have a place like Loveland where people can let loose and enjoy the fun side of life. Apart from that, it’s also nice now and then to just see a wholesome celebration of beautiful people doing it.

Elsewhere on Jeju Island, the attractions tend to appeal to other senses. Many visitors climb the picturesque Mount Halla (height, 1,950 meters), whose volcanic lake is one of the sightseeing pleasures of the island. Others stay on the beach, visit museums or stroll around botanical gardens. But whether they come to Jeju to explore or just lounge around, all visitors need to eat – and it’s the cuisine that makes the island a delight to visit even after you’re done visiting the main attractions. You’re never more than a few minutes away from a Korean barbecue on Jeju, with restaurant menus centering heavily on meat all across the island. Plenty of side dishes accompany the main course, from raw vegetables and garlic to leafy greens, sauces, and kimchi. The stove is on (or in) your table, and when the food arrives, you slide a piece of fat over the hot metal surface to create a non-stick surface, and prepare your strips of meat to taste. To wash it down, you could quench your thirst with beer or soju, but on Jeju, you’ll also find a special wine made from the gamgyul fruit (a kind of tangerine) that grows all over the island and can be found

everywhere. Gamgyul vary in taste depending on whether they were grown in winter (in greenhouses, often tasting sour) or in summer (in fields, generally sweeter). They also make for a nice and healthy dessert or fruit juice.

it usually comes with toppings like powdered sugar, chocolate syrup, crushed nuts, and coconut flakes.

Much of Korea’s distinctive cuisine remains traditional, but some new trends are taking root around the country as well. In Busan, a transparent round “water cake”, with a recipe borrowed from Japan, has been a popular item at street markets. The cake itself looks, feels, and almost tastes like a giant jelly-like drop of water, and uses agar (made from algae) for its gelatinous texture. Since the cake itself has virtually no flavor,

In the streets, as well as restaurants, food in Korea is as varied and appetizing as Thailand’s own cuisine. Here in Bangkok, Korean restaurants can be found in scattered places across the city, but there’s an excellent cluster of them in Korea Town where Sukhumvit meets Soi 12. There, you can get a fine taste of what’s in store for you on your next trip to the Korean peninsula. As for the sex… well, you’re on your own for that soi.

Find us at Sukhumvit soi 11 Telephone: 02-651-1098 snappernz@snapper-bangkok.com www.snapper-bangkok.com www.facebook.com/SnapperNZ

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Bangkok is in for a treat! Finally, after years of waiting, The Magners International Comedy Festival comes to Bangkok, March 17-19. This three-day festival brings over nine international acts to The Big Mango, at three different venues. Bangkok is the last leg of a tour that has seen the comedians travel from Hong Kong, Singapore, Vietnam, and the Philippines. This is the largest festival of its kind in Asia, and its sponsor, Magners Irish Cider, is the largest sponsor of comedy in the world. The tour is being organized by Magic Rock, which has been overseeing the tour since its inception with The Comedy Club Bangkok as the local organizer. Bangkok’s only dedicated English-language comedy venue, The Comedy Club Bangkok (located above The Royal Oak, on Sukhumvit Soi 33/1) also plays host to the festival, with two other venues. Tenderloins Bar and Steak House

(on Sukhumvit Soi 33), and Altitude at the top of The Westin Grande Sukhumvit, each will feature some of the best international stand-up comics. Stand-up Comedy Artistic Director of The Comedy Club Bangkok, Chris Wegoda, says the level of talent coming to Bangkok cannot be matched. “We have seen some big comics come to Bangkok, from Russell Peters’s stadium shows, to Ari Shaffir, Tom Rhodes, and Gina Yashere performing at our club. But this is huge! Nine comedians, three days, three venues with 3-4 world-class international comics per show!” Throw in a late-night improv Jam led by Canadian Comedy Award Winner Best Male Improvisor, and the festival is destined to be a massive success. The nine comics come from Canada, the U.S., England, Scotland, and Ireland, and are all seasoned stand-up comedians at the top of their

game. It’s a crime to not see all of them, including Martin Mor, opener for Frankie Boyle, and musical-comedy British sex symbol Earl Oakin, who has delighted audiences for decades and used to hang out with The Beatles. Then there’s Leo comedy award-winner Erica Sigurdson from Canada, Luke Ashlocke – The Comedy Club Bangkok’s first headliner, and many more! If you haven’t seen stand-up comedy in Bangkok, don’t miss this outrageous opportunity to see such a vast array of international comics. Tickets are on sale at each venue, with earlybird prices just 500 baht. Tickets are also available for every show from The Comedy Club Bangkok’s website ComedyClubBangkok.com. Early-bird prices make this festival an unbelievable deal, but even the regular prices make this an affordable night out, and a guaranteed night to remember.

PASSPORT

COUNTRY

Daytripping

Must-dos in Nakhon Pathom By Voicu Mihnea Simandan

There are truly many old and ancient things and places to experience and visit in Thailand, but when it comes to the ultimate “old destination” the Kingdom has to offer, few know that Nakhon Pathom is the place to go. A one-day trip to this relatively quiet and off-the-radar province can bring unexpected pleasures, with visits to cultural centers, temples, museums, palaces, and religious parks. Located 56 kilometers northeast of Bangkok, Nakhon Pathom is a small province with a history that goes back to the dawn of Thai civilization. Archeologists have unearthed here artifacts from the Dvaravati kingdom, a pre-Thai civilization that flourished from the 6th to the 11th centuries. It’s not surprising

The Rose Garden

You’ll find your first destination on Phetkasem Road in Sam Phran District, not too far from the main road. Located next to Nakon Chaisi River, a tributary of the Chao Phraya River, the Rose Garden is the perfect place to unwind from the cacophony of noises you’ve just left behind in Bangkok. Although it’s not a botanical garden as the name suggests, the Rose Garden is more of a cultural village that does include numerous floral displays,

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but also has an all-inclusive show which boasts folk dancing, Thai boxing, sword fighting, and the customary elephant show. The Rose Garden is open every day from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., and the entry fee is 10 baht for adults and 5 baht for children. The admission to the show is separate and costs 300 baht. If this is your first contact with Thai culture, then it’s worth the investment.

then that the name of the province in Pali, Nagara Pathama, actually translates as “first city”, and thus, Nakhon Pathom is often referred to as the oldest city in Thailand.

This in itself makes the province a worthwhile travel destinations, but on your next trip to Nakhon Pathom, make sure you don’t miss the following five must-visit destinations: The Rose Garden, Phra Pathom Chedi, Phra Pathom Chedi National Museum, Sanam Chan Palace, and Phutthamonthon Park. Forget about your daily chores and problems and immerse yourself in ancient Thai history and culture while taking advantage of refreshing air and manicured gardens.

Continue your journey on Phetkasem Road until you enter Nakhon Pathom city proper, where the road signs will guide you to the imposing Phra Pathom Chedi, the silhouette of which you can also see on the 25-satang coin and on the seal

Phra Pathom Chedi

of Nakhon Pathom province. Belonging to Wat Phra Pathommachedi Ratcha Wora Maha Wihan Temple, the chedi, standing at 120.5 meters height, is the world’s tallest stupa. The stupa itself and the surrounding

temple complex present an abundance of archeological and architectural clues to the Dvaravati period, but it is best if you just enjoy the site for what is, without getting bogged down in identifying each and every element of the temple.

3 4 Phra Pathom Chedi National Museum

Right next to the stupa, you’ll find Phra Pathom Chedi National Museum, one of the 38 branches of the National Museum, where, in their air-conditioned rooms, you’ll be able to better understand the importance of the Dvaravati culture and also place it in the social, cultural, political, and religious con-

text of the 6th to 11th centuries.

The grounds surrounding the museum display archeological remains of times passed by while the inside of the museum contains better preserved standing Buddha statuettes and Buddha heads that have survived intact over the centuries.

Sanam Chan Palace

Only one kilometer away from the stupa, you’ll get a chance to move forth in the history of Thailand by visiting Sanam Chan Palace, a complex built by King Vajiravudh (Rama VI). Although the site now houses one provincial campus of Silapakorn University, it is still open to the public, especially notably the King Rama VI Museum. There are five buildings you can visit, plus a shrine of Ganesh, the elephant-headed Hindu god. The buildings have been well restored and give the visitors a glimpse into the influences Siam underwent in the late 19th

Phutthamonthon Park

Your last destination for the day is located on Phutthamonthon Sai 4 Road, right at the boundary between Nakhon Pathom province and Bangkok. So, practically, on your way back to Bangkok, turn right at the intersection of Phetkasem and Sai 4 Roads and drive for a few more kilometers up the road. You won’t be disappointed for this small detour. The park covers a huge area of 400 rai and is designated as a Buddhist park. Apart from spacious lawn areas, manicured bushes, and a few religious buildings, at almost 16 meters

high, the park also boasts the highest freestanding Buddha statue in the world. Apart from its religious role and significance, the park attracts many people who are just looking for a clean place to exercise out in the open. It is also a great location for flying kites and letting young children run around without worrying too much about getting hurt. (It is good though to keep in mind that the park has seen some recent religious and political demonstrations and that there’s a strong army presence in the area.)

century and early 20th century. There are Thai-style residences built on stilts and made entirely of wood, as well as buildings with the typical ornate Thai roofs and window frames that look more like a temple than a residence. Western influences are seen in the colonial-style mansions with spacious rooms and verandas, plus an amazing small castle-like structure with minitowers built in a mix of French and English styles. A statue of Yah Leh, King Rama VI’s furry dog “protects” the entrance to the castle.

Due to its close proximity to Bangkok, getting to Nakhon Pathom is very straightforward. Buses leave regularly from the Southern Bus Terminal and vans from Victory Monument. You can also take the regular train and disembark right in front of Phra Pathom Chedi. You can also take the BTS Skytrain on the Silom line all the way to the end of the line at Bang Wa station and from there, continue your journey by bus up on Phetkasem Road. Follow the same road if you drive your own car or motorbike. All five destinations recommended above are easy to find by just following the public road signs.

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Chinese Secrets B y

D a v e

glory) really is an art that depends on cooking the vegetable quickly in extremely hot oil, causing the oil to burn and flame, which gives the pak bung its flavor. At Fai Keaow Yaowarat, the maniacal chef gives this a whole new meaning. Every five minutes or so, perhaps eyeing the crowd that has gathered round to watch, he preps his oil, gets the greens ready, and then sends a fireball into the sky big enough to light up a city. Seriously, if this were an indoor restaurant, it would have burned down ages ago. Those sitting too close to the chef should probably not have facial hair, and should be well prepared to order extra drinks and ice to cool the searing temperatures.

Making stir-fried pak bung (morning

Not far from here, you won’t get any

MARCH 2016

cogs and rusted auto parts, hand-delivered ice block trucks, and residents sitting out in front of their shophouses watching the world go by. However, my favorite pastime in Chinatown still has to be eating, preferably at some of its more hidden gems.

S t a m b o u l i s

By far, other than attending a Chinese opera performance, the most theatrical show you can see in Chinatown is having a meal on the street at Fai Keaow Yaowarat (Tel. 081-560-5522), located just south of Yaowarat on Isara Nuphap, which becomes Yaowarat Soi 11. While the food here is tasty, it isn’t set apart by having special dishes or being “the best” in Chinatown. Yeah, you can get giant barbecued prawns, excellent tom yum goong, and plenty of fresh seafood, but that’s not why you are coming here. The reason to seek out Fai Keaow is to watch the acrobatics of the pyromaniac chef who runs the joint, or as I call him, the Master of Pak Bung.

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Chinatown remains Bangkok’s last place to get lost in. Until the MRT line gets finished, the neighbor-hood up until now remains free of malls, of neat and tidiness, and of any semblance of order. It is still a pleasure to wander through the narrow alleyways full of mounds of old gear

flames with your meal. In fact, you won’t even get a table, and pos-sibly not even a seat. At Khao Geng Jek Pui (Tel. 02-222-5229) at the corner of Mangkon Road and Charoen Krung, customers line up around the block for a bowl of rice with curry toppings, and the sev-en-decade-plus-old restaurant has been nicknamed “musical chairs rice and curry” due to the fact that it has no tables, and only individual stools lined up against a wall in an alleyway, where every time some-one gets up, someone else moves in and snatches their stool. The third-generation owners said they considered installing tables as

part of modernizing, but that they realized that would slow down service and customer turnover, and besides, the regulars who flock to this delicious spot everyday seem to be thrilled about having games to play while they eat. It does seem that being novel in Chinatown is a big draw, and that is exactly what Som Tam Sam is all about. While som tam papaya salad carts are as ubiquitous as 7-Elevens on Bangkok streets, it is quite unusual to see one with a farang chef handling the mortar and pestle. This stall at the Chalerm Buri in-tersection was started by French Sam… actually by his wife Maem, who took over a popular street spot from vacated by the former vendor. Despite the good location, the business wasn’t doing so well, and Sam asked his wife if he could try his hand at making yam woonsen glass noodle salad along with spicy som tam. His constant banter and joking demeanor quickly won over the locals, not to mention his Thai taste being pretty spot on, and he’s now a fixture, sporting colorful traditional sarongs, gold amulets, and speaking a bizarre mix of heavily French-accented English and Isaan dialect to the amusement of all the passersby. If all the fire and spices in this part of Chinatown get you thirsty, another hidden gem down an alley (101-103 Yaowarat Passai) is the seventy-year-old Eiah Sae

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(Tel. 02-221-0549) cafe. Now run through several generations of Thai-Chinese, you won’t find any lattes, cappuccinos, and certainly no flat whites here. Instead, you’ll get a cafe boran (traditional coffee) recipe that has been handed down through the family, at a wallet friendly price of 25 baht, and besides the superb strong joe sweetened with gobs of condensed milk, you’ll also get to marvel at the purple walls (they’ve actually recently repainted them yellow), the vintage paintings, and even more so at the clientele, who are made up entirely of old Thai-Chinese men in their 80s and 90s, most of whom have been coming here every day since the cafe was started. It’s one of these timeless spots, a slice of vanishing Bangkok, and one that needs to be sa-vored before it is gone forever.

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MARCH 2016

PARTY NIGHT

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MARCH 2016

PARTY NIGHT

Tuesday, April 5th, 6:30-? Tenderloins Sports Bar & Steak House, Sukhumvit 33

Tenderloins March Promotions!

Guinness Pint - 175Bt + VAT Heineken Pint - 120Bt Tiger Pint - 120Bt FREE Irish Stew All Day St. Patrick's Day (17th March)

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MARCH 2016

CLASSIFIEDS MARKETPLACE Advertise or announce anything for... FREE!

Max. 75 words. Listings run as space allows or until cancelled.

Email your ad to: dsbkk@mangometro.com

For more DSBKK, click over to fb.com/groups/dsbkk or fb.com/groups/dsbkkpromo For rent – tidy deluxe condo Sukhumvit 34 (Thonglor BTS). Brand new 1 bed unit furnished 28,000Bt p/m incl. weekly maid service, swimming pool, gym, ultra hi-speed internet ready. 089-1222292. (B) Website business services – If you ready to start your new business era online to grow your business and earn more customers send us your requirments to. yui@tobe-website.com Find us here:www.tobe-website.com Skype: yuisoeur Cell: 089 669 4852 (A) Large 2 bedroom condo for rent (120 m2) – quiet side of Sukhumvit Soi 11, modernly designed, fully furnished, brand new A/Cs, fully fitted Kitchen with oven, 2 bathrooms with rain shower, unobstructed view, onsite pool, sauna & fitness facilities, car park, walking distance to BTS Nana & MRT Sukhumvit / Asoke. Only THB 49,000 per month (1 year contract min.). To arrange a viewing, call Pat 087 517 4129 - pmbkk@hotmail.com (A)

Supalai City Home Condo for sale - Two bedroom, one bathroom, 68 sq meter unit. Only 100 meters from the Udom Suk BTS station. Sale Price 3.89 Million Baht. Contact Ampai 061-629-7999. (B) 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom condo for rent (101 sqm) great location ,great views 34th flr. Situated on Wireless rd, 10 min walk from Ploenchit bts, 2 min from the canal taxi and 15 min from airport link. Has a 25m swimming pool and a new gym with new shower and sauna. also has an onsite laundry, convenience store and hairdressers. Asking 30,000 baht per month and open to offers to purchase. Call Jas on 0860486823 (B) Social Petanque – Fancy a game of French Petanque and meeting new people? Can’t think of anything better than playing on a Saturday or Sunday morning 10-11 am around Sukhumvit-Asoke area? Then, wait no longer, join our Petanque Group and join the next event! Email your contact details to Pat at pmbkk@hotmail.com (B)

Pad Thai & More! Thai Cookery & Catering Brand production in Thailand. Anybody Classes in your own kitchen. 2.5 hours, four delicious need help on this? Please email white.lily40@yahoo. dishes suitable for vegetarians & seafood lovers. com (B) Yummy & fun, too. Impress your friends! Call 087Shipping containers going to UK mid march 810-1880. Email: magicthaiATgmailDOTcom. (B) have room for Any thing legal call 081-490-6275 (B) Thai lesson with experienced teacher – Promotion! Free 1 hour trial lesson to make your decision. I provide speaking and reading course. You can study on YouTube by watching my videos or follow me on Facebook. YouTube.Maliwan Thai Language Facebook.maliwanthailange Email. maliwanthailange@gmail.com (A) LEGAL & ACCOUNTING FOR THAILAND BUSINESS

Erie Silk Scarf – 100% Hand-made and Pure Natural Dyed Now available online. Our scarf and shawls are designed hand woven, using the finest quality home spun Erie Silk yarn with natural dying method. A superior choice of gift for you or anyone. We have a wide range of woven from solid to intricate traditional mud-mee pattern. We also provide a daily tour visit weaving site. Tel 081-8348787 or Email: vip@bcl.co.th(C) Promotion! Thai lesson with experience teacher. Free 1 hour trial lesson to make your decision. I provide speaking & reading courses. You can study on YouTube (Maliwan Thai Language) by watching my videos or follow my Facebook fanpage (maliwanthailanguage). email: maliwanthailanguage@ gmail.com • 0917100326 (B)

INTERACTIVE ASSOCIATES THAILAND LEGAL & ACCOUNTING SOLUTIONS

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Apt in Sukhumvit soi 11 for rent. 2 bedrooms + 1 study room, 2 bathrooms. 118 sqm F/F open kitchen and living room on 9FL. rent: 33,000/month. contact: 081-3070618 Lee (B)

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Welcome christian of any nationality / denomination stay in Bkk, Thailand who would like to pray for salvation of your friends / relatives come together to pray. Only once a year. Please contact: email: welcome.volunteers@yahoo.com (B) Sale of a plot of land about 15 rais, with a beautiful house and a small pond including surrounding fence. It is located in Tambon Nichom Kraseaw, Danchang District, Supanburi. This land area is very good for building the nursing homes for the elderly, as it is very close to Danchang Hospital. Price for sale is at 20 million baht. For more information, please call 089 9964900, 084 1453883 or email suganyab_bma@hotmail.com. (B)

For Rent – amazing house in phra kanong, around 900m or 10 min. from the BTS. Newly renovated, 2 storeys with swimming pool and huge garden in a quiet soi. Size: spacious 500 SqWah. Built up: 400-500 sq.m. Details: quite unfurnished 6beds/5baths/2living room, kitchen, 2 maid’s room, 6-8 parking space. THB 200,000. Contact Mark Lang tel: 0986903275. E-mail: langosch604@gmx.net

TREADMILLS, CROSS-TRAINERS, BIKES AND MORE...

Caffitaly capsule coffee for sale – We have 7 flavors for sale from THB 23 / capsule. www. stefan.asia for more details. Direct import from Italy. new arrival: s22 + s08 both machines latest models. call stefan 081 846 7770. also have orig. nespresso machines (inissia / citiz / pixie / milk u / lattissima) (B) Can help you with matters you required to be done in Thailand. Fit for those who travel frequently and no time to do by yourselves. Please contact. w.newt@yahoo.com (A) Cheap company set up & work permit – We support you setting up your company and getting your work permit done. Also, we can do BOI, accounting & admin service. Contact at Jin: 091 8869049 or pk@jinda.co.th (B) Language exchange – I am a native French speaker and bilingual English, interested to learn Thai. I live in Sukhumvit / Asoke area. So if you want to learn English or French, I am happy to meet you and do some conversation practice with you. You can email me your contact details at pmbkk@hotmail.com (J)

X-Bankers – business loan consolidators, only over 1.0 MB. good credit, bad credit, no credit, everyone welcome. “We make it possible for you”. Phone: 081-447-1478 (J)

VIVIN is hiring casual and weekend Thai National sales staff for events. Suitable for students or someone with free time willing to gain more experience in the field of sales, marketing, customer service and the gourmet food industry. Thai candidate must speak English at a basic conversational level and have the confidence to talk with both Thai / Foreign customers. Please send resume to contact@vivinmaison.com or call 02-662-5662 Mon-Fri from 9:30 - 18.00PM.

Looking for #Construction, #Renovation, #Build-in and #Design? We serve a full range service to your home and office. Bangkok: ceiling, aluminum mirror, house, condominium, townhome, vinyl, windsor product, English friendly, thus we can provide you a right service. Build you tomorrow, today! Tel 088-209-9456. Name Tee. https://www. facebook.com/ingenbuild Line id: Callmet (C) High quality seafoods from Norway and Japan.Free delivery in Bkk. No minimum order. We are lower price than Makro and other supermarket bec. we are a supplier. Fresh or frozen. Tuna, mackerel, salmon, scallops, sea urchin, octopus, etc. uticfoods@hotmail.com (A)

Expert editing, copywriting and ghostwriting offered by retired researcher and valuer of museum quality fine art and antiques. English language writing and speaking help available (academic, business or conversation) to adults. Sathorn-Silom area. Contact information and details to: Mr. Yon (jonhal@gmail. com). (A)

Condos: 2-bedroom 2-bathroom unit for rent now between Nana - Asoke area near BTS Stations. Rent 25-35,000 Baht / month, email: henry. properties7@gmail.com (a)

Condo lPN Near Thailand cultural center, for rent and sale, 8th floor, corner 60.23 sq.m, 1 living room, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms. Kitchen. 2 balconys. Finished in modern light and fresh style. Rent 20,000 THB per month swimming pool. sauna. Fitness. close to MRT Huai-khwang. 089-870-5009 easy1624@ hotmail.com line ID joeqi (C)

Language School for Sale – in North Pattaya. Fully licensed by MOE. forsaleinthailand@ gmail.com (C) French educated (Dr. of sciences), I am interested to learn Thai language, I live in Bangkok. If you want to learn French or herbal sciences in exchange, I will be happy to meet you and doing some conversations. My email: panah_naturalmedicines@ yahoo.fr (C)

If you are looking for work at home use your computer in your spare time go to www. tripleclicks.com/12510570 – You can register free online and if you feel not right you can terminate anytime. (A)

Private/group speaking Thai lessons – want to learn Thai? Or improve yours? Private tutor or group lessons, all levels. Experienced, professional tutor. Fun, effective & affordable. Call Tip 087-8101880. (a)

For sale – Over 2,600 DVD movies, including some documentaries. You may view the entire list at: http://healththai.org/DVD_List.pdf. They are all neatly alphabetized in 17 DVD caddies. From your browser type in 192.168.1.44, click on the “DVDs” link on the top left, and login as “Guest.” If you have specific questions, please email me at edbkk2010@ gmail.com. I would expect around B45,000 for the entire collection (including the caddies). Make me a reasonable offer. (L)

DISPLAY & CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING... At All Bangkok & Pattaya

Within a walking distance to BTS Chidlom, available a 2 bedroom unit for short / long stay rent. Rent from 38000 Baht a month. Call 0959487221 (L)

Need more business...? Obscure location...? Running a promotion...? New business...?

Large 3 bedroom condo for rent – 175 m2. 150 m away from BTS Nana station on Soi 8. Well designed. Fully furnished. Fully fitted Kitchen with oven. 3 bathrooms. Unobstructed view. Onsite pool & car park. Only THB 49,000 per month (1 year contract min.). To arrange a viewing, call Pat 087 517 4129. pmbkk@hotmail.com (C)

Adverts from 1,000 Baht/month CALL Andy on 080 814 9080

Mango Moving

084-147-5550

ce: Available spa 170x250x170cm

featured in FB/groups/dsbkkpromo Mango Moving – here to make your move easy! A fully enclosed truck, the hands to load it up, and even free moving boxes! We drop off the boxes to you a couple of days before your move for you to pack; on moving day, we do all the heavy lifting of boxes, furniture, and other items from your old place to your new one; and then we pick up the empty boxes a couple of days after. In English or Thai, call 084-147-5550 or LINE (ID: JokeMango) or message us on our page at www.facebook.com/MangoMoving Want to learn English? Request a teacher here: www.ericgabriel.com/request. I’m a professional English tutor, teacher, and trainer. I have a network of tutors to help any level, any age, and customize lessons to meet each student’s needs. Email questions to eric@ericgabriel.com. (I)

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