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PHNOM PENH RISING By Dave Stamboulis

hnom Penh used to be known as the ‘Paris of the East’ due to its French colonial influences and its wide leafy boulevards boasting splendid monuments. Much of this was wiped out during the reign of the Khmer Rouge horrors, but today, Phnom Penh has fully reemerged as one of the hottest and most vibrant destinations in Southeast Asia, and a spot that is well worth lingering in for a weekend or more. While most travelers make Phnom Penh a pitstop en route to the temples at Angkor or the beaches in Sihanoukville, Cambodia’s capital is now worth a few days on a tourist sojourn of its own. While there isn’t necessarily a glut of knockout sights to see, the laid-back town along the Tonle Sap River has become a perfect spot to take it easy, enjoy some fabulous food, superb prices, and an extremely relaxing vibe. Most visitors to Phnom Penh will want to check out the handful of attractions along the Tonle Sap River that runs through the heart of town. Here you can find the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, and National Museum, all built during the French pe-

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riod and examples of traditional Khmer architecture. These days, the riverside area is lined with Chinese shophouses, art galleries, and plenty of sidewalk bistros and bars, with terraces overlooking the river and city life below. In addition to sitting and taking it all in, one can hire a traditional cyclo (bicycle rickshaw) to tour around in, or better yet, view the city from the river. Several operators now run sunset cruises aboard comfortable catamarans, giving views of the palace and Wat Phnom hill for which the city is named, and floating down to the confluence of the Tonle Sap and the Mekong, where one can enjoy the last light of the day with a cocktail or cold Angkor beer in hand. Although August-October tends to see a lot of rain, this shouldn’t put anyone off, as rainbows over the Mekong are just as precious as red sunsets, and if one does make it to town in November, this is when the annual Bon Om Tuk Water Festival is held, in which colorful long-tail boat races take place along the Tonle Sap. While sobering and not a ‘pleasant’ attraction, visits to the sites giving insight into just how much Cambodians suffered in the 1970s under dictator Pol Pot are a real moving lesson in history and rejuvenation. The Tuol Sleng former main prison is now the highly informative Genocide Museum, and a visit here, along with a pilgrimage out to the Killing Fields at Choeung Ek just outside Phnom Penh is recommended for getting a grip on Cambodia’s not-so-distant past, where a quarter of the country’s population was decimated within three years. Markets are also a big draw in Phnom Penh, from the masterpiece Art Deco beehive building that houses the Psar Thmei (Central Market), which is a frenzied hubbub of activity throughout the day, to the shoppers’ favorite Russian Market, where clothing, home décor, DVD, and souvenir items can be picked up at fantastic prices. Phnom Penh also has a whole new look when it comes to sleeping and dining. Chic new urban boutique hotels, like the sleek LeBiz Hotel and Library are springing up all over, offering stylish and comfortable accommodation, while the eating scene in Phnom Penh has started to rival Kathmandu as a traveler’s home away from home with literally hundreds of international eateries arriving on the scene. On my recent trip to the capital, I dined on some of the most authentic Mexican food I’ve had anywhere in Asia at La Cita, followed up by outstanding Lebanese fare at Beirut, all washed down with some outstanding craft beer from the new Himawari Hotel’s microbrewery (www.himawarihotel.com/en/himawarimicrobrewery.html) on the riverside.

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While the beaches at Sihanoukville are some three hours away, making them perhaps a tad too far for an enjoyable day trip, the best city escape is to head out to the Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Center and take a behind the scenes tour with Wildlife Alliance. Wildlife Alliance is involved in trying to stop the illegal wildlife trade and protect endangered species, and their programs in Cambodia work with the government and local communities to provide alternative livelihoods for animal trainers and create sustainable ecotourism. At Phnom Tamao, trained guides take visitors into the heart of the wildlife rescue program, where one has the opportunity to enter restricted areas to view tigers up close, walk with elephants, get painted by a humanely-trained elephant, interact with baby animals, and meet a variety of endangered species. Lonely Planet recently voted Cambodia as the second-best value-for-money travel destination in the world, and it looks like Indochina’s former grand dame is set to return to her place at the top, so start making your travel plans now.

By The Way Do. Wildlife Alliance – www.wildlifealliance.org or contact evansv@online.com.kh – gives excellent behind the scenes tours with rescued animals and endangered species at the Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Center, about an hour from Phnom Penh. 86 Street 123. T: 023-211-604.

Stay. LeBiz Hotel and Library – www.lebizhotel.com – is an urban chic business hotel with plenty of creature comforts. In addition to its spiffy ultra-modern design, it does actually offer a book and movie library on premises to ensure one’s stay will never be dull. 79F Street 128. T: 023-998-608/610.

Eat. La Cita – www.ox2net.com – offers outstanding Mexican and other Latin American cuisines that are as authentic as they come. 13 Street 282, Wat Lanka. T: 092 388 123. Beirut –www.yourphnompenh.com/beirut-resto-cafe – serves up Lebanese favorites like hummus, labneh, and stuffed grape leaves in a charming location along the riverfront. 117 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023-720-011.

Go. AirAsia – www.airasia.com – is the only low cost airline to fly directly from Don Mueang International Airport to two destinations in Cambodia: Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Fly between to and from Phnom Penh with a morning or afternoon flight in either direction at very affordable fares for a weekend getaway to visit historic sites and view Angkor architecture, enjoy the nightlife with the cheapest drinks and French and other international cuisine, and shop for artisan and other goods. And don’t forget to use AirAsia’s very easy Internet check-in at www.airasia.com and print out your boarding pass from home!

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YOU OUGHTA YACHT By Voicu Mihnea Simandan

Tim relocated to Pattaya where, together with his former partner from Gulf Charters Thailand (www.yachtcharterthailand.com), they set up their own company. At first they organized daytrips on an old schooner, and after some years, Captain Tim went his own way and started the SailQuest Sailing School, an international sailing school affiliated with International Yacht Training (IYT), an organization based out of British Columbia in Canada. They are now one of the 160 IYT partner schools, located in every coastal community worldwide. At SailQuest, one can train to receive the IYT Bareboat Skipper’s Certificate, as well as several other certificates, including the ICC, the International Certificate of Competence, which you would need to have if you ever planned on chartering, sailing, buying, or owning a boat in the European Union. The ten-day IYT Certificate course is open for new students once or twice a month, depending on demand. It is a well-rounded course that Tim has been developing for the last eight years as a sailing school instructor. It’s got an action-packed program that includes classroom time for the theory of navigation and chart reading and plotting, lots of sailing drills, sail handling, docking the boat in the marina, and learning how to operate the vital parts of the yacht from the engine to electrical systems. Participants also get the chance to spend three nights on the boat, usually sailing up to Koh Si Chang and also the busy shipping port of Laem Chabang, in order to experience sailing among container ships, barges, and oil tankers. “It’s a program geared to people who would like to learn how to charter a yacht and get out there on the oceans of the world to pursue their sailing goals and dreams,” summarizes Captain Tim. The ten-day program costs 60,000 baht and includes the IYT registration, all the necessary materials, the yacht and instructor costs, meals and non-alcoholic beverages while onboard the boat, plus accommodation costs for the nights on land in bungalows at Ocean Marina in Pattaya.

ordered by both the Andaman Sea in the southwest and the Gulf of Thailand in the center and southeast of the country, Thailand has a coastline stretching a bit over 3,200 kilometres, providing not only for much needed active and healthy marine life and resort locations, but also for a vast stretch of open waters where one can take out a yacht and sail the tropical seas.

For those sailors who already have the needed certification and want to put their sailing skills to use or just want to be part of a new and exciting experience, SailQuest organizes monthly four nights and five days live-aboard sailing trips. The yacht will travel within the region, usually from Pattaya’s Ocean Marina to Hua Hin and/or Koh Samet. The costs vary depending on one’s cabin choice, ranging from 16,000 baht for a shared cabin to 40,000 baht for a two-person private cabin.

As to how safe sailing can be, Tim says: “I always feel safer in water than I do while driving around on my motorbike or in the car. As an experienced sailor, getting out to sea is about as safe as you can get. We also train people how to sail within their own limit and how to recognize potential dangers and hazards that occur at sea and how to deal with those, so that they can minimize the risk. Tales of adventure at sea have fascinated mankind for centuries, and such I personally think that sailing is a very safe activity to do. There are a lot classics as Melville’s Moby Dick, Verne’s 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea and more people getting hurt while driving around on the road than sailing London’s The Sea-Wolf are just a few examples of books that have had a long- on a boat.” lasting influence on readers’ psyches. However, according to both CNN and BBC news reports in early 2013, sea piracy in Asia is seemingly on the rise, with The skeptics might need to know that Tim’s record is impeccable. While in pirates targeting oil tankers with low-to-no security in place but Tim McMa�� Hawaii, he took up to seventy people a day on daytrip charter boats out hon, an American living in Pattaya, has a very different adventure story to tell. to Waikiki Beach, eventually taking about 30,000 people sailing total. Here in Thailand, while in Phuket, he registered a staggering 800 live-aboard Captain Tim, as he is known among his students, customers, and employees, nights, and he has brought every single customer safely back to land! is the owner, director, manager, and instructor at SailQuest Sailing School, a company that strives to offer quality training for those who would like to About 30% of the customers who sign up with SailQuest are expats worksail, charter, or own a yacht of their own. Tim sailed into Phuket more than ing somewhere in Asia, all the way from Hong Kong, plus other cities witha decade ago after leaving Hawaii and having completed a seven-year, live- in mainland China to Malaysia, Singapore, the UAE, Dubai, and, of course, aboard circumnavigation of the Pacific. During his extended sea journey, he Thailand. “They are looking to do something special on their holiday and cruised to many Pacific islands and then sailed throughout Southeast Asia, enjoy their time off work, so they come to us,” explains Tim. Another group including the Philippines, Borneo, and Malaysia. of possible customers that SailQuest is increasingly targeting is sailing enthusiasts from neighboring countries, especially from China, Malaysia, and While in Phuket, he started undertaking chartering on his own boat and then Singapore, simply because the concept of getting out on a yacht for pleaworked on a 60-ton schooner, taking tourists out to sea on diving trips. Dur- sure is gaining a strong foothold here in Asia. There are also those who are ing these next six years, he cruised all over Asia, managing to drop anchor in in Pattaya on a sailing school holiday, coming from Australia, the U.S., or some really remote and unexplored areas within the Andaman Islands and Europe because they have an interest in Thailand, but also looking for a the Burmese Mergui Archipelago. certified sailing course during their stay as well.

In Tim McMahon’s personal opinion, the yachting movement in Thailand is definitely a growing field: “I have been involved in the yachting scene ever since I landed at the beach in Phuket, and I have seen it grow hugely with new marinas, lots of new boats, policy changes – with the new import duty costs still at zero percent. When I first got to Pattaya, the marina was just a third full; now the marina is almost 100% full. I have also seen some significant growth, with a lot of large boats in the mega-yacht category coming over and bringing along infrastructure and money. I believe that we will see yachting grow vastly over the next decade or so.” If you decide to take up yachting as a hobby, there are lots of racing regattas organized throughout the year in Thailand, which you can participate in. Most have international sponsors, and while Phuket remains the center in Thailand for yachting, Pattaya and Koh Samui are also receiving a lot more exposure for these boating festivals. The events are well attended by racers from all over the world, are professionally run, and have earned a good reputation among local and international yachting aficionados.

mango metro SEPTEMBER 2013 11

ture. I’m always discovering new beaches while stopping at little islands, which may have seen only just a few yachts. There’s lots of exploring to do in Thailand too.” Yachting is for anyone who wants to embrace life on the water, and SailQuest Sailing School is particularly geared for people who would like to learn to sail a larger, live-aboard type of vessel, with the possible intention of undertaking their own holiday sailing in any of the hundreds of possible destinations around the world. “We teach them how to deal with the wind, the currents, the tide, and we provide a great deal of nautical know-how. Although we cover a vast field of knowledge, it is obviously not that easy for someone to just pick up on their own without any previous experience at all,” says Captain Tim. Being a sailor can be a physically challenging job, as getting the sails up, adjusting the sails as you go, and even just hanging onto the boat can be incredibly energy consuming. Following that, you then have to get the dinghy into the water if you want to travel out onto the beach, and there’s a lot of work involved with sending a yacht safely out into the sea waters. “You won’t be just sitting in the back of the boat drinking cold beverages all day long. People who sail tend to get a lot of exercise, but if you like doing a little bit of exercise, it’s not something that is really too difficult to achieve,” Tim reassures.

Yachting in Thailand is essentially trouble-free, benefitting from such great weather that allows almost year-round sailing with excellent winds in the Gulf of Thailand.“Overall, it’s a fantastic sailing experience,” muses Tim.“Back in my home country, where I grew up in the state of Maine in the New EngThe SailQuest Sailing School (www.sailingschoolasia.com) is located at land region, it was quite cold, and we had a limited sailing season.” world-class Ocean Marina Yacht Club (www.oceanmarinayachtclub.com), As for yachting in other Southeast Asian countries, explains Tim, “There’s which faces Jomtien Bay in Pattaya. For more information about SailQuest, the possibility of great sailing down in Cambodia as well, but Vietnam contact them by phone at 084-539-9689 or look them up on Facebook. is not really yacht-friendly, as they’re not open to having foreign vessels coming in and just cruising their waters. It’s the same situation in Indone- And Thailand’s next exciting major sailing event is the 27th Phuket sia, which is a beautiful place to sail, but you do need to apply for cruising Kings Cup Regatta (www.kingscup.com), Asia’s premier yachting event, permits, as the situation there is more regulated. But, overall, Southeast which will take place between November 30th and December 7th. For Asia is a great place to sail; one of the best things about sailing in this other yachting events in the region, check out the sailing calendar at region is that there are very few yachts, and there’s a real sense of adven- www.asianyachting.com.

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Networking

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Head over to www.fb.com/bangkoktrader to check out all the pix from the great time we had at Tenderloins Sport Bar & Steak House.

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mango metro SEPTEMBER 2013 15

HIPPIE DAYS

ture and positive connection with Mother Earth and good health became deeply ingrained in me. Now, thanks to the Bangkok Farmer’s Market, I can finally relive, twenty years later, my closet hippie persona and indulge in this fantastic New Age version of my sweet childhood memories.

From week to week, the stall holders are mastering their art and fixing themselves as the favorite go-to spots in the market as new products make their way to white and tartan table cloths. BKKFM is always keeping it ‘fresh,’ which is why it’s becoming an ever-growing community event. Even the BKFMM miniature animal farm now sports five miniature pigs and a miniature pony, this being an ecstatic distraction for the kids to pet and play with as you munch on the likes of fresh Vietnamese summer rolls and slurp on dragon fruit yogurt smoothies. Entertainment hasn’t been forgotten either – from opera singers to balloon animals to local live bands, BKKFM bursts with things to tickle every sense.

With a lot more style, flair and, dare I say, cleanliness, Bangkok Farmer’s Market (BKKFM) has not only pioneered an entire community movement By Samantha Proyrungtong with to follow a healthy lifestyle, but also made it very photos by MisterLou Photography cool to do so. Every Saturday and Sunday, you will find local traders from all types of food and beverage backgrounds on a mission to offer organic, one are the Sunday days where we non-GMO, and pesticide-free products for your kids would pile into the family station absolute tasting pleasures. wagon bomb and chug down to the When we talk about community, we often talk local school or about giving back, and grocery store car park. BKKFM supports through Out of the car we would educational programs, trundle into a sea of matcharitable works, and ted hair, sweat pants, and free programs to create a entourages of dazedtighter-knit community, looking after-party another hippie, guilt-free punters wandering rows conscious trait we could and rows of makeshift all learn something from. stalls with racks full of musty pre-loved wears But it’s not all just sunand rickety trestles full flower seeds and ground of exotic backyard fresh root powders; you will fruit. These sporadic visfind some of the highits to Camberwell Marest quality meats and kets were most notable produce that Bangkok from my childhood. has to offer, so much that 5-star hotels are ofIt was also my first inten bidding for first ortroduction to those ders. Besides the foodie my parents affectionstuff, there are plenty of ately deemed ‘hippies.’ amazing handicrafts and I worked out they were natural beauty products referring to those such made from local traders, as the soft-spoken felsuch as Unny’s ‘Wanderlow in the psychedelicluster Dreams’ copper coloured vest and the and gemstone jewelry pants that ballooned and the divine range of out and cinched at the Znya’s premium organic ankles who had always soaps and bamboo dekindly offered samples toxifying bath liquid, all of his horribly bitter, packaged lovingly and homegrown ‘grass juice.’ ready to go. It was also the gang of shorthaired, bangleSo if you’re ever asking adorned women selling yourself, “What is there from their mini-vans to do on the weekend?” the most scrumptious Be it nursing a hangwheat-germ-free, vegover, taking out a date, etarian burgers with oror giving the kids some ganic homemade chuthealthy aversions, there’s ney. Then there was the no question about delightful skinny man with the ponytail handing Currently, BKKFM is positioned at K Village near swinging by this fantastic not-so-little market. out flyers for meditation and yoga class, followed the end of Sukhumvit 26, a lovely outdoor shop- BKKFM is sure to impress, entertain, tantalize your by a mesmerizing slurred speech about our ‘sa- ping village where you will find the place buzz- taste buds, and in a not so direct way, it’ll educate. cred bodies.’ Last, but not least, was the obligato- ing with enthusiastic stall keepers offering bits You’ll likely walk away feeling fuller, enriched, and ry parade of Hare Krishnas, with their pineapple- of fresh dark rye lathered in rich lychee honey or hopefully take away a bit of that ‘hippie’ we know topped shaved heads, chanting happily along perhaps organic pork and thyme sausages siz- and love inside of us. I know I have. with their bongos and cymbals. zling on hot plates. It’s where families, friends, and couples move blissfully along a maze of French- Bangkok Farmers Market – www.fb.com/bkkfm It was about that time I fell in love with the ‘hip- style homemade jams, mini mushroom farms, or www.bkkfm.com – is currently held at K Village pie’ non-trend. No, I didn’t become vegan or start and market-fresh sustainable seafood, to name a on the last weekend of every month from dreadlocking my hair, but their free-spirited na- few delectables. 9 a.m.-5 p.m.

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STAYING HEALTHY… THE THAI WAY By Dave Stamboulis

incl. additional photos by the Thai Traditional Medicine Research Institute

y first introduction to Thai traditional medicine came many years ago, when I first moved to Bangkok. I’d come down with a horrible sore throat and cough, and had gone to the nearest pharmacy, coming home with the only medicine I recognized from home (Robatussin), and griping to a Thai friend about how much I’d been charged. She asked me why I hadn’t bought a bottle of Makham Pom instead, shortly thereafter going out and picking me up a dose of the most popular traditional medicine in the country, an herbal expectorant that quickly relieved my cough without relieving my wallet as well. While Thai alternative medicines may be abundantly available, the average foreigner here has little knowledge about nor much exposure to them, and thus a visit to the Thai Traditional Medicine Research Institute may be a learning experience, as well as a healing one. Traditional Thai medicine actually has a rather recent history here. Despite having origins in the 13th century from traditional herbal ways of healing, when the country sought to westernize in the early 1900s, the teaching of Thai traditional medicine was banned from medical schools, and its use in hospitals discontinued in 1916, with modern medicine replacing traditional treatments in all mainstream care. In fact, the Medical Acts of 1923 and 1926 unlicensed most practitioners, leaving traditional medicine only used in rural ar-

eas without access to clinics. It wasn’t until some 63 years later, after an urging by the World Health Organization for countries to include medicinal plants in primary healthcare programs, that the Thai government reinstated funding and research, and traditional remedies were once again given a place in mainstream healthcare here. Today, the Thai Traditional Medicine Research Institute offers treatments combining traditional remedies such as herbs, hot herbal compresses, herbal steam baths, and Thai massage to address their medical diagnoses. Thai traditional medicine is similar to Chinese and Indian medicine in that it is holistic, seeking to treat the cause of an ailment as opposed to the symptoms. Modern medicine is often symptom-based, as in “I have a headache, okay take an aspirin,” which relieves the headache but not necessarily what caused it in the first place. Thai medicine focuses on the four ‘tard’s or elements of the body (Chinese medicine has five) – namely, earth, wind, fire, and water – and how they may be imbalanced by weather, age, where one lives, and other factors. While old school alternative practitioners may have added astrological readings to their patient diagnostic (to determine

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if a patient had a dominant tard in their makeup), today’s traditional doctors are just as professional as their modern counterparts, making sure to do a blood pressure and temperature check at the start of a diagnosis, and ascertaining a full medical history of the patient before prescribing any kind of treatment. Traditional medicine, while not heavily used for surgeries or advanced diseases such as cancer, is excellent for treating the average ‘wear and tear’ on the body type of ailments that come as the body ages. The herbs that are used, unlike modern pills, do not cause side effects, are completely natural, and are far less costly than most manufactured drugs. Plants such as ginger, galangal, cinnamon, and a plethora of other spices and herbs have long been known to be beneficial in curing a variety of ailments and maladies, and the TMRI studies them, puts them through lab testing, and then creates herbal products used for treating modern urban illnesses such as insomnia, office syndrome, or high blood pressure. With low doctors’ fees, relaxing massages, and soothing herbs and herbal compresses, it’s hard not to want to give some of these traditional medicines and medical treatments a try. In addition to its research section and medical practice facilities, the TMRI also has opened a new health spa downstairs that offers wellness massages by trained therapists and also has an herbal store, where one can buy a variety of over-the-counter type medicines, compresses, natural soaps and shampoos, essential oils, and more without needing a consultation with a doctor. The TMRI is open daily from 8:30-16:30 and is located near the Bo Bae Market just off of Krung Kasem Road. The most traffic-free way to get there is to take the BTS to Ratchathewi station and then a Saen Saeb canal boat to the Bo Bae stop and walk down Krung Kasem just past the Hua Chiew Chinese Hospital. Alternatively, take the BTS to National Stadium station and then a taxi down Rama I to where it becomes Bamrungmuang.

The Thai Traditional Medicine Research Institute – tmri.dtam.moph.go.th – 693 Bamrungmuang Road. Tel. 02-224-3261(-5).

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STORIES OF PHUKET AND BEYOND By Voicu Mihnea Simandan

teve Rosse’s Thai Vignettes (Bangkok Books, 2005) is a collection of stories the author had published in several English-language magazines and newspapers based in Thailand. The book comprises of around fifty short pieces centered on the life of various foreigners living on Phuket.

after story.

Some of these stories were based on the lives of real people, such as Tristan Jones, an English author and mariner who died in poverty in 1995 as a double amputee in Phuket, as well as the usual fictional expats, tourists, and Thais, whose personalities and adventures must have surely Unlike some travel writers who get bogged down in the history of a been based on the people Rosse personally interacted with. place, Steve Rosse looks closely at the human factor and is able to see and describe men and women just the way they are. Rosse proves to Although there are plenty of bargirls in Thai Vignettes, the book doesn’t be a keen observer of the people around him, and in his brief prose, he center on the Phuket nightlife, and its target readership isn’t one intermanages to show the readers what makes us tick. ested in lewd escapades. Nonetheless, one wonders why bargirls are given such great importance here, and we can only speculate that, indeed, For Steve, Phuket is not Thailand’s largest island, surrounded by the An- bargirls are a part of the genuine socio-economic reality of this famous daman Sea, but rather the mosaic of tens, hundreds, or thousands of dif- tourist destination. ferent people, all with their own personal histories, dreams, fulfillments, and dramas. It is them that Thai Vignettes has as main characters, and it After finishing Thai Vignettes, readers should then pick up Steve Rosse’s is their (mis)deeds that drive the reader into reading story after story second book, Expat Days: Making a Life in Thailand (Bangkok Books, 2006), and they wouldn’t be blamed to brace themselves for the same detached narrative about the different people the author encountered while living in Phuket. The leader in mobile apps

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However, Expat Days is a different kind of book. These stories, greater in length than the previous volume of vignettes, were written for Phuket Magazine and The Nation between 1989 and 1997. Most, if not all, are about Steve’s personal life and the trials and tribulations he had to go through raising a family and making a living in Thailand before he finally decided to relocate his family to the U.S. In a comment on thailandstories.com, Steve Rosse defended the selfrighteous voice he employed in Expat Days, as his musings were “designed to stand out from Trink and Crutchley and Eckardt and the other columnists of the time, who were all promoting the bar-and-brothel lifestyle. Believe it or not, in the late 1980s and early 1990s, when I was writing, it was still unpopular to question any aspect of the sex industry in Thailand in The Nation or the Post. The smug, self-righteous, judgmental voice I created was politically incorrect for the time. These days, my

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Some of the stories build on or expand on the short pieces in Thai Vignettes, while “my wife, Mem,” is a character who obsessively ‘interferes’ with Steve’s first person singular prose. The fact that the stories are longer gives the reader extended reading pleasure, as opposed to the jerky rhythm one finds while reading Thai Vignettes. The interconnectedness of the stories invites us to glimpse into the life of a man who was, at that time, the only full-time Caucasian journalist on Phuket. We witness the embarrassing moments when Steve was first introduced to his Thai wife’s family, we learn about the profound influence that his son and, later on, his daughter had on him, we read about the ups and down of having to share a home with a woman who comes from a totally different background, and we are exposed again to the usual antics that foreigners who have lived in Thailand for some years generally engage in. A sense of nostalgia picks up towards the second half of the book, while a somewhat nihilistic tone imbues the latter stories. The plight of the prostitutes sold by their families to brothels, the locals’ unforgiving attitude towards tourists, the ecological destruction that modernization brings about, and the loneliness of long-time expats who often wonder “What on Earth am I doing here in Thailand?” are only some of the themes that one can find in Rosse’s stimulating fiction. An astute literary critic and a harsh commentator on the sorry state of some of the e-books that have been published in Thailand with the recent boom in e-publishing, Steve Rosse’s Thai Vignettes and Expat Days, as well as Steve’s later books, are available through Amazon’s Kindle Store and still available as paperbacks via the publisher’s website (www.bangkokbooks.com), Asia Books, Dasa Books, Gecko Books (with nationwide delivery), and at Amazon too.

columns would not elicit a single letter to the editor in the mainstream press, because they reflect the attitude of the media and of the Englishreading public in the Kingdom today.”

E LARTG O OR OLL SMA R

www.collingbourne-auctioneers.com

TURN

Mobile: 086-838-7841 (John) | Tel: 038-076-234 Fax: 038-076-235 Email: johncollingbourne@hotmail.com

TOO

Soi Chaiyapruk 2, Nongprue, Pattaya, Chonburi, Thailand.

CASH

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TE D G O

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20 mango metro SEPTEMBER 2013

A Night of

Comedy Phil Kay, Scotland’s madcap king of stand-

up comedy has been performing since 1989. He has garnered a pile of awards including Best British Comedy Award in 1994, various nominations and TV appearances, including hosting his own live show on Channel 4 in 1997. However, it is his stage shows that see him at his best.

Raymond Mearns, actor and comedian, returns to Bangkok for a 3rd year on popular demand. He has had a sell-out run at The Edinburgh Festival Fringe and then onto New York to The Improv and The Gotham Comedy Club, alongside the first-ever New York Comedy Festival.

His childlike take on the world is blended with sacks of energy, spoonfuls of improvisation and jumps of the imagination. The results are hilarious, crazy shows where even Phil doesn’t know what’s going to happen next!

In November 2005, Raymond returned to New York, where he played to a sell-out crowd at The Laugh Factory with the Show “Laughs Across the Ocean”, in collaboration with New York comic Danny Lobell. 2007 also saw the release of Raymond’s first DVD, recorded at the Stand Comedy Club during the Glasgow International Comedy Festival. Raymond completed a successful mini tour of venues across Scotland; appeared in the new series of “Rab C Nesbitt” and in the BBC’s Scottish Soap Opera “River City”; and released his second DVD in April of 2011. He then went on tour with Pete Doherty at The Shepherds Bush Empire and various venues in the north of England and continues to do live stand-up most weekends at various clubs across the UK and overseas. A man that knows how to swear properly! Billy Connolly A comedy masterclass... the future of Scottish comedy. Edinburgh Evening News A ballistic ranter, not to be missed The List Greatest virtue is that he always wants to put on a great show The Stage This man is going to be huge Fred Macauley, BBC Radio Scotland

A Night of Scottish Comedy

From the country that brought you Billy Connolly and Kevin Bridges, we present you with a night of side splitting hilarity With

Raymond Mearns and

Phil Kay

In 2008 was our 1st Comedy Night with Raymond Mearns, with 2012 a 2nd great success. This year Raymond will be accompanied by the renowned Phil Kay for a hysterical night of Scottish comedy. Ball Room at The Holiday Inn, Soi 22, Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok Starts at 6.30 PM till late Friday October the 4th, 2013 Includes buffet (4 courses-including pre show appetizers), soft drinks and mixers, wine, free flow beer and corkage free bring your own bottle (spirits).

Price per person: 2,850 Baht with early bird 2,550 Baht (until September 15th) Price per table of 10: 25,500 Baht Charity: Gift of Happiness Foundation Limited seating. By booking only. Call 081 824 3157 or Email andrew.sloan@wctcoltd.com.

Our thanks to our confirmed sponsors:

You have to be born with comic talent such as his. It’s a gift from the gods; a freewheeling mind that’s utterly without boundary... ***** Metro One of the greatest comedic odysseys ever witnessed. Hysterical in every sense of the word – Kay truly is a mesmorising headf### genius... ***** Time Out The crowd were in hysterics from the start. In many ways, Phil Kay is the spirit of the Fringe. He’s a manic, funny, shambolic, Scottish, hairy hobgoblin of an exhibitionist, and embodies any adjective you care to ascribe to the festival. Edinburgh Festival ...extreme, perceptive and expect the unexpected The List

mango metro SEPTEMBER 2013 21

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22 mango metro SEPTEMBER 2013

LOOKING FOR TENANT – Click Condo, Sukhumvit 65. 1 bedroom + 1 study, 2 bathrooms, 55 sqm fully furnished. Nice low rise condo in a quiet residential area, 10 min walk to BTS, tuk tuk service to Sukhumvit road. Pet friendly! Gym, swimming Pool, sauna, billiard, tuk tuk service, 24/h CCTV, security access card control. Utility cost at government rate. 1 year contract 25,000 THB. No agents. Contact Giulia B.: giulia.burato@ gmail.com. 0851491515. CONDO FOR SELL / RENT – 80 sqm. Sukhumvit soi 11. 2 bed rooms,2 bathrooms, balcony, pool, jim. Beautiful view, 21 floor, furnished. Tel: 0819265544 Mail: idit@irpc.net (I) CASA CITY 3 STORIES, brand new town house in Ramkhamhaeng 76 Rd. 250 metres from the main road. 3 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, study, living room, kitchen and dining area. 2 car parks. Aircon in every room. Close to Big C Supermarket, Home Pro, The Mall Ramkhamhaeng, The Mall Bangkapi, ABAC University, Ramkhamhaeng University and Rajamamkala Stadium. Sale 7 Million. Contact Naree 086-537-2557 (I) UNIQUE INVESTMENT opportunity in Canada’s Banff National Park in the prestigious national park town of Banff, Alberta. Ten unit fully renovated building located on the highest point on Banff Avenue, with unparalleled mountain views. Owners do not have to own a business in Banff, and do not have to work or to live in Banff. Price CAD1,800 000.00, possibly less if one suite is leased back to the owner. echo77@gmail.com now for more information. (H) 46 SQM STUDIO for rent at the markland sea view on 18 flr nice balconey please call 0878009370 or 035699829293 (G)

Please visit Villa Market stores:

SUKHUMVIT33 Tel. 0-2662-1000 AREE Tel. 0-2270-1995 SAMMAKORN Tel. 0-2372-3577 PATTAYA Tel. 0-3841-6888

SUKHUMVIT49 Tel. 0-2662-5880-4 RATCHAYOTHIN Tel. 0-2512-4544 RACHAPUEK Tel. 0-2422-2505 HUAHIN Tel. 0-3253-2100

CONDO FOR SELL / RENT – 96 sqm on the 21 floor, beautiful view, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, balcony, pool, jim, Kitchen, furnished, Sukhumvit soy 11, 48. Tel: 0819265544. Mail: idit@irpc.net (I) COCKTAIL BAR AND LOUNGE. Air-conditioned, small outdoor patio, storeroom, toilet, large screen TV, bar and lounge seating, stage with PA system, Dancing pole. This bar comes with all the necessary equipment, licenses and stock ready to trade immediately. 850,000 baht ONO. Call today for an inspection 0886203025 (I) ROOM FOR RENT @ Sixty Six Condominium – 45 sqm, 1 bedroom, 1 living, balcony, storage, modern decoration, fully furnished, European kitchen, walkin wardrobe, 2 aircons, TV 50”, DVD. Soi 1 between Pattaya Beach Road and Pattaya 2nd Road. Walk to Pattaya Beach, Big C shopping mall and restuarants. Security system, covered parking, rooftop swimming pool, fitness area. Rent at 35,000 Baht / month, minimum 6 month contract. Contact: Lak 086 233 6087 (Room Number 436/601, 4th floor) (I) VOLUNTEER WEB designers wanted: to help create website for christian finance raising project for church expansion. Please contact: white. lily40@yahoo.com (I) APT IN SUKHUMVIT SOI 11 for sale. 2 bedroom + 1 study room, 2 bathrooms, 118 sqm. F/F open kitchen bright on 9th Fl. 42” LCD TV & DVD player. sale: 8.20mil baht. call: 081-3070618 Lee (I) LEARN THAI WITH highly experienced thai teacher – beginning to advance. I mainly make students talk and correct them. Flexible timetable: You can study anytime. Safe time to travel: I will come to you. Free textbooks and 1 hour trial lesson. Fair price. Group lesson: 1-4people is 600/ hour, 5-10 people 1000/hour. Private lesson: 450/ hour. Promotion: Get free 1 hour after 10 hours. Reference: 2008-2009, teach thai at Jentana Association. 2010-1013 Sukumvit Thai language. Tell: 088-674-2975 (H)

THONGLOR Tel. 0-2712-6000 LUANGSUAN Tel. 0-2255-3066-7 KASET-NAWAMIN Tel. 0-2578-4555 PHUKET Tel. 0-7638-1888

SUKHUMVIT11 Tel. 0-2255-6559 CITY VIVA Tel. 0-2676-9585,87,89 CHANGWATTANA Tel. 0-2984-3000 SRIRACHA Tel. 086-342-9198

THAI & INTERNATIONAL ACCOUNTING – experienced certified Thai accountant & auditor (CPA) offers professional services in general accounting, financial statements, taxation, payroll, company registration, consulting etc. Contact: K. Nong on 086-810-7075 or sirinporn.cpa@gmail. com. (I) PANASIN PLACE Ramkhamhaeng Soi 24/3 – 150 metres from the main road. 3 stories. Home Office 165 sqm. 3 bathrooms, and 3 large rooms, 2 car parks, and a large parking lot. Close to ABAC University, Ramkhamhaeng University, The Mall Ramkhamhaeng, Big C Supermarket and Rajamamkala Stadium. For Lease 16 years 1.75 Million. Rent 21,000/month. Contact Naree 086-537-2557 (I) SPORTS BAR – inside and outside seating, corner location, 8’ Brunswick pool table, 3 x TVs connected to True and Astro, storeroom and toilets. Equipment, licenses and stock included. 1.9m baht ONO. Call today for an inspection 0886203025 (I) NESPRESSO lovers?! now buy italian roasted import coffee. fit for all nespresso machines at only half the price. start at thb 18 / capsule. at our shop in sukhumvit soi 22. www.stefancafe.com. caffitaly system / nespresso system brands at our capsule coffee boutique. check it out and get free 3 samples at the shop (I) DVDS FOR SALE – 500 world vintage films for sale1930-60. Sell in lots of 100 too. 7k a hundred. 30k the lot. All guaranteed to play properly. Contact nigelinseychelles@gmail.com (I)

CAR FOR SALE – BMW 730 LI SE. Oct. 2006 registered 2007. Price: 1,900,000 thb. 140K Km. special edition. TV, dvd, auto shut doors, roof air con, telephone, fridge. For more details please contact David: 0850 668 449 (I)

PLOENCHIT Tel. 0-2656-9071-4 SILOM Tel. 0-2636-6856-60 NICHADA Tel. 0-2584-5444 SENA FEST Tel. 0-2108-9095

PAHOLYOTHIN Tel. 0-2619-1001-5 PARADISE PARK Tel. 0-2325-9144 GRAND CANEL Tel. 0-2573-0341 UDON Tel. 042-247-597

Features

READY TO MOVE IN 2013

Best location in Pratumnak Hill | Walking distance to Cosy Beach â&#x20AC;˘ Five minute drive to Walking Street and Shopping Centers â&#x20AC;˘ 200 m. to Royal Varuna Yacht Club | Quiet and peaceful surroundings Seven storey boutique condominium | Ultra modern design State of the Art construction and engineering technology Premium quality building materials | Unique floorplan layout Studio, one, two and three bedroom units | 36sqm - 200sqm Spectacular sea views | Large private balcony Fully fitted European standard kitchen and bathroom fixtures 17m Rooftop infinity swimming pool, sundeck and gym Built in furniture | Spacious storage units | Wireless internet connection 24 hours security and CCTV | Underground parking

Tel:

+66(0)3 825-0868

Cell ENG +66(0)8 1902-8268, +66(0)8 9993-3689 Cell THAI +66(0)8 5439-4105 info@elegancepattaya.com