2014 Travel Guide to California by MarkintoshDesign

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CONTENTS Get Your Bearings 6 California Map 8 Editor’s Note 12 Discover California Dreaming 14 History A Home for Immigrants and Entrepreneurs

Discover the Golden State 18 CA.Cities Surprising California Cities 22 CA.Museums & Art Creativity, Unlimited

28 CA.Architecture & Gardens Building in Harmony

EXPLORE CALIFORNIA’S TOURISM REGIONS

San Francisco Bay Area

31 CA.Cuisine Local Flavor 34 CA.Wine Country Welcome to Wineland!

San Francisco

Tri-Valley

Sonoma Valley

Berkeley

San Jose & Silicon Valley 90

38 CA.State & National Parks Places of Adventure and Tranquility

Santa Clara County

Los Angeles County 100 West Hollywood

42 CA.Golf California’s 10 Best Public Golf Courses

102

San Diego County 108 San Diego Zoo & Safari Park

45 CA.Sports & Outdoors: Summer Get Outside and Play 48 CA.Sports & Outdoors: Winter Wonderland in Winter 50 CA.Movies The Stuff of Dreams 54 CA.Theme Parks Excitement Overload 58 CA.Shopping A Shopper’s Paradise

110 120 126 134 138 142

66 CA.Railway Journeys When That Lonesome Whistle Blows 68 CA.Road Trips Take the Wheel!

4 2014

T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

154 158 161 164

168 Resources General Information California Welcome Centers Quick Reference Guide to Travel

Orange County

Convention & Visitors Bureaus

116

Holidays

Newport Beach

Monterey Bay & Big Sur

Climate/Temperatures

124 Gilroy

Medical Care & Travel Insurance

Central Valley

Driving Regulations

130 Central Valley Cities

Resources for the Disabled

Central Coast

Hotels, Resorts & Inns

North Coast

Airports

High Sierra

Air Distances Between Selected Cities

148 Mammoth Lakes 150 Lake Tahoe South Shore

62 CA.Spas & Wellness The New R&R

Find Useful Information

Gold Country Shasta Cascade

Driving Distances National Parks & Historic Sites Art Museums

Inland Empire

COVER: Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco. Photo: Nickolay Stanev/Shutterstock.

Deserts

Lombard Street on Russian Hill, San Francisco, top.

MARIO SAVOIA/SHUTTERSTOCK

25 CA.Performing Arts Golden State Greasepaint

199

Tulelake

Dorris

Willow Ranch

Fort Dick 96

Klamath R. 139

Crescent City

Yreka

Clear Creek

Montague

Del Norte

Bray

Lake City

Modoc

Siskiyou

Hackamore

Klamath

299 299

Alturas

Etna Weed Mount Shasta

Orleans

Callahan

Orick

Likely

Dunsmuir

Cecilville

SHASTA CASCADE

Nubieber 299

Sacramento R.

Trinidad Lamoine

139

Eureka

Blue Lake Arcata

299

Trinity

Termo

299

Hat Creek

Humboldt

Lassen

Weaverville

Big Bar

Shasta Lake 395

Shasta

Fortuna

Redding

Ferndale 3

273

Rio Dell

89 36

Susanville

Anderson Platina

Mineral

Blocksburg

Westwood

Honeydew Eel R.

Milford

Red Bluff Taylorsville Te h a m a

Whitethorn

Quincy

Corning Paskenta

Leggett

NORTH COAST

101

GOLD COUNTRY

Portola Paradise

Orland Dos Rios

49 89

Chico Loyalton Sierra

Downieville

Butte

Willows

Glenn

Oroville

Fort Bragg

Biggs

Willits

THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA has 58 counties, whose boundaries are shown on this map. The state’s tourism regions sometimes spill over several counties and in some places jump borders to include portions of counties. The colored sections on the map show where these regions are.

Plumas 70

208

Nevada

Truckee

Gridley 80

Mendocino

Live Oak

Colusa

Yu b a

Nevada City Grass Valley

Colusa

Lake

Elk 128

Sutter

Williams

Ukiah

Placer

R. ento Sacram

253

Lakeport

Colfax

Wheatland 49

Clearlake

128

113

South Lake Tahoe

Auburn

Lincoln

Point Arena

Lake Tahoe

Marysville

Yuba City

Roseville

Placerville

Folsom

Calistoga

Windsor

Sebastopol

Davis

Napa

Santa Rosa

Coleville

Dixon

Amador

Alpine

Sutter Creek

Sacramento

Vacaville

4 182

Ione

108

Jackson

Napa

395

Calaveras

Galt

HIGH SIERRA

Saint Helena

Rohnert Park

Markleeville

Sacramento

Woodland

SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA

El Dorado

Rocklin

Yo l o

Cloverdale Sonoma

160

Petaluma

Vallejo

San Rafael

Tuolumne

Lodi

Rio Vista

Angels City

Martinez

167

Sonora

San Joaquin

Concord Berkeley Oakland

San Francisco

Solano

Bridgeport

San Andreas

Fairfield

Novato Marin

Tuolumne City Lee Vining

Stockton

Contra Costa

Lathrop

120 120

Manteca 120

San Francisco

Livermore

Hayward

San Mateo Redwood City

Ripon

Alameda

Daly City

Modesto

Waterford

140

132

Mammoth Lakes

Mariposa Alameda

Stanislaus

Fremont

Mono

Yosemite Village

Oakdale Riverbank

Turlock

Mariposa

Madera

Patterson

Milpitas

Sunnyvale

140

Livingston

Santa Clara San Jose

Atwater

Bishop

Merced

168

Newman

Coarsegold

Lakeshore

San Mateo

SAN JOSE & SILICON VALLEY

Los Gatos Merced

Morgan Hill Santa Cruz

Santa Clara

168

Chowchilla

Los Banos Fresno

152

Capitola

Dos Palos

Gilroy

Santa Cruz

Trimmer

Hollister

Firebaugh

Kings R.

Owenyo

Parlier

San Benito

Inyo

Reedley

San Joaquin

245

Selma

Gonzales

MONTEREY BAY & BIG SUR

Independence

Clovis

180

Sanger 25

Seaside

DESERTS

Fresno Mendota

Salinas

Marina

Monterey

395

Madera 33

Watsonville

136

Dinuba

Kingsburg

198

Death Valley

145

Soledad

Woodlake

Greenfield

King City

Cartago

190 190

198 43

Exeter Tulare

Huron

190

Visalia

Hanford Lemoore

Big Sur

Tulare

Lindsay 127

Haiwee

Coalinga 41

Corcoran

198

Porterville

178

Monterey

Johnsondale

Avenal

101

Shoshone 99

Tecopa

Kings

Delano

Searles Valley

127

5 1

McFarland San Simeon

CENTRAL VALLEY

178

El Paso de Robles

Wasco

Mountain Mesa

Atascadero

Shafter

Morro Bay

178

Bakersfield

Buttonwillow

San Luis Obispo

Ridgecrest

rn R.

C a l i f o r n i a

Saltdale

Kern

San Luis Obispo

119

Cima Arvin

227

California City

Arroyo Grande

Tehachapi

Taft

Grover Beach

Maricopa

Afton

Santa Maria

Boron

166

Guadalupe

Barstow

Needles 14 138

Helendale

Lancaster

Lake Hughes Lompoc Solvang

Adelanto

Ve n t u r a

Buellton

Apple Valley

Palmdale Victorville

Santa Barbara

Bagdad

Los Angeles

Lake Havasu

138

Fillmore

Santa Clarita

Santa Paula

Oxnard

Big Bear Lake

La Canada Flintridge

Col

Thousand Oaks 1

Chubbuck

247

Simi Valley

118

San Buenaventura

Hesperia

o R.

Essex

Ludlow 247

orad

CENTRAL COAST

San Bernardino

Frazier Park

Santa Barbara 101

Glendale

Pasadena

Agoura Hills

Fontana

Los Angeles

Yucca Valley

San Bernardino

Riverside

Twentynine Palms

Rice

Desert Hot Springs 177

Torrance

LOS ANGELES COUNTY

Anaheim

Moreno Valley

Corona

Palos Verdes Estates

Santa Ana Long Beach

Palm Springs

Hemet

Irvine

Cathedral City

Riverside

Indio

Desert Center

Palm Desert

Lake Elsinore

Orange

Huntington Beach

Costa Mesa

Blythe

Laguna Niguel

371

Oasis Avalon

ORANGE COUNTY

Carlsbad

Salton Sea

Imperial

San Diego

San Marcos

Calipatria

Escondido Encinitas

Westmorland Poway

San Diego Coronado

Brawley

Imperial Reservoir

Imperial

Santee

SAN DIEGO COUNTY

111

Borrego Springs

Vista

Oceanside

El Centro

El Cajon Lemon Grove

8 98

Chula Vista

Holtville

Calexico

Imperial Beach

INLAND EMPIRE

INSIDER’S

» TIP 6 2 014

T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

coastal Highway 1. You won’t go wrong if you stop at Nick’s Cove on Tomales Bay in the whistle-stop village of Marshall. Try their renowned oysters, dine overlooking the bay, or better yet, book a cottage and enjoy after-hours cocktails in the boat shack by candlelight. You’re a short hop from Point Reyes National Seashore for hiking and beach activities, so you can really make a day of it. nickscove.com

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FOOD & NATURE LOVERS Many fine watering holes dot California’s famous

Welcome to San Francisco. Now’s the time... Day or night. Sunrise or sunset. Morning coffee or happy hour. There’s always something to do in San Francisco no matter when. Draped across 40-some hills the City by the Bay is one of the few places in the world that doesn’t let time stand still. And all that famous scenery is matched by equally famous shopping, dining, arts and culture. Now’s the time to make every hour count in San Francisco. Get started at www.sanfrancisco.travel.

>> EDITOR’S NOTE

2014 TRAVEL GUIDE TO

CALIFORNIA Joseph P. Turkel

EDITOR

Larry Habegger

EXECUTIVE EDITOR ART DIRECTOR WRITERS

Last spring I was resting under a 2000-year-old giant sequoia during a hike through the forest, listening to the chatter of school kids. We were on the five-mile loop trail through the South Grove in Calaveras Big Trees State Park in California’s Gold Country, the scent of pine in the air. The park protects some of the world’s oldest and largest trees, and is a place where pondering the ages and our place in the scheme of things comes easily. The kids were engaged with what they saw and heard and smelled around them, but they were also busy entertaining each other in the way kids do, their social antennae up and tuned to make sure they fit in. I gazed at that giant tree that was easily 20 feet in diameter and soared out of sight in a tangle of boughs and needles and sky, and I began to think about the dozens of generations that had passed in that tree’s lifetime. Each was just a moment, and now it was our turn to make the most of it. We were all graced by the tree’s presence, and the kids settled down as we continued our hike, taking it all in in their own ways, perhaps also pondering their place in the grand scheme. But the next day we would return to our urban lives full of schedules and commitments, and I remembered that message to make the most of it. And in California there’s so much to make the most of. We’re privileged here because we have easy access to the ancient natural world of the giant sequoias, or Death Valley National

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Park, Lake Tahoe, Yosemite National Park or even the La Brea Tar Pits in the heart of Los Angeles. But we also have access to all that’s new, in technology, architecture, design, art, theater, opera, music, film, food, sports, you name it. We have the Pacific Ocean to play in and its beaches to comb, the Central Valley and its bounty of fruit, nuts and vegetables to enjoy, desert oases to bask in, manicured golf courses to challenge our skills, mountains to ski down or climb up, some of the best restaurants in the USA and, of course, some of the world’s finest wines (not to mention the World Series champions two of the last four years!) So when you think about California, do you want a deserted beach, a theme park for the kids, a romantic urban adventure, an escape to a desert or seaside resort? In these pages we help you prepare, with profiles of the state’s main tourism regions, essays on history, cuisine, museums, theme parks and many other topics, plus eight resource pages with information on hotels, driving distances, average temperatures, California Welcome Centers and much more. One thing’s for sure. When you come to California, you’ll be able to choose among the ancient and the new, and everything in between. And maybe ponder your place in the scheme of things. —L A R RY H A B EG G E R , Editor

CIRCULATION MANAGER DIRECTOR OF FINANCE CALIFORNIA OFFICE

ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Judi Scharf Mark Tzerelshtein David Armstrong Susan Brady (Resources) Laura Del Rosso Bill Fink John Flinn Don George Marcy Gordon Lenore Greiner Robert Kaufman Maribeth Mellin Jill K. Robinson Jan Rodricks Bonnie Smetts Lavinia Spalding Matt Villano Jacqueline Yau Judy Zimola Julia Wall

Gloria Mungo 1288 Columbus Ave. Suite 292 San Francisco, CA 94133 TEL: 1-888-700-4464 FAX: 416-497-0871 E-MAIL: tigc@rogers.com californiatravelguide.travel Collier C. Granberry Marshall Rubin Dexter Taylor The Travel Guide to California is published by Globelite Travel Marketing Inc., a leading lifestyle media company and publisher of The Travel Guides to Canada, The Travel Guide to Florida, The Travel Guide to California, and Dreamscapes Travel and Lifestyle Magazine.

CANADIAN OFFICE

Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. 3 Bluffwood Drive Toronto, Ontario M2H 3L4 TEL: 416-497-5353, 1-888-700-4464 FAX: 416-497-0871 E-MAIL: tigc@rogers.com californiatravelguide.travel No part of this publication can be reproduced or duplicated without the written permission of Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. The opinions in this magazine are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the views of Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. Publications Mail Agreement 40047932. Contents © copyright 2014 Printed in Canada ISSN 1926-304X (Print) ISSN 1927-7245 (Online)

PAULA MC CABE

The Ancient and the New

PRESIDENT & GROUP PUBLISHER

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DISCOVER BY DON GEORGE

California Dreaming The Golden State is both a special place and a special state of mind THE SEDUCTIVE STATE OF CALIFORNIA

Cosmopolitan and Compassionate

casts a spell on many, and everyone who

Two qualities that stand out in California

visits runs the risk of falling in love and

are the cosmopolitan quality of everyday

PACIFIC OCEAN

never returning home—or rather, making

life and the extraordinary compassion of

The world’s largest ocean, the fabled

California their new home. Why is that? In

the people. There is a mind-stretching mix

Pacific, embraces California’s entire

part because in a matter of a few days you

of cultures here—the sidewalk cafés of

western boundary. It’s a place to

can attend the world premiere of a play,

Europe, the exotic eateries of Asia, con-

dream, to ponder life’s possibilities and

explore wineries in some of the world’s

certs and exhibitions showcasing arts

endless mysteries, and a place to play.

finest wine regions, beach-comb by the

from around the world, and people who

Surfers ride the sea’s prodigious waves;

ocean, ski in the mountains and immerse

have ventured to the far corners of the

sailors ply her waters; boogie boarders

yourself in an open-mindedness and open-

globe and understand its larger lure. At the

and body surfers splash in her surf;

hearted celebration of life that are simply

same time, nurtured by this worldliness, a

kayakers explore her coves and shore

part of the state’s cultural fabric.

commensurate compassion thrives. Cali-

breaks; children of all ages wade in her

fornians want to learn about the planet’s

froth and comb her beaches. Life

diverse cultures and creations, near and

happens on the edge of the Pacific,

far, and they care about issues from edu-

where the sun shines, and sets in

cation to equality to environmental

ethereal colors.

stewardship.

Call of the Wild The state also offers an extraordinary diversity of wild places and experiences. Within a morning’s drive, most Californians can be at the ocean’s edge, in the

IRINA MOS/SHUTTERSTOCK

middle of a redwood forest, at the foot of a

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

granite peak or in the stark splendor of a

porary art grazing to vintage wine sipping,

Sonora and many others. You’ll also find

desert. For one of the world’s most dra-

world-class museum and gallery exhibi-

globe-girdling pockets of Asian, African,

matic four-day camping trips, try hiking

tions to renowned author readings to

European and South American communi-

Half Dome in Yosemite National Park.

cutting-edge performances of dance, music

ties throughout the state, where even

Spend the first night on the Valley floor. On

and theater. Some of the greatest amuse-

shopping in the local market gives the

day two, hike up halfway and pitch your

ment and theme parks in the world

taste of a rich multicultural stew.

tent in Little Yosemite Valley. Grunt your

entertain kids of all ages here, including

And speaking of stew, the California

way to the awe-inducing peak and back to

Disneyland, Universal Studios, SeaWorld

kitchen is a glorious global melting pot. In

your campsite on the third day, and then

and Six Flags, and their intellectual coun-

addition to California Cuisine, which fea-

descend to your car on the fourth. Cooking

terparts such as the Monterey Bay

tures a celebration of local, seasonal

under the stars in the pine-scented night

Aquarium, California Academy of Sciences

produce in inventive combinations, eating

and falling asleep to the lullaby of the

and Exploratorium. There’s an activity for

out in California offers tasty lessons in

rushing Merced River will make memories

every interest in this abundant state.

global traditions, with restaurants serving

you’ll never forget. North to south, east to

the cuisines of dozens of countries, from

west, California offers a lifetime’s worth of

Culture and Cuisine

old favorites such as France, Italy and

such experiences, from Mount Shasta to

With a wide variety of immigrants from all

China, to relatively new favorites such as

the Channel Islands and Anza-Borrego

over the world, California embraces and

India, Mexico, Thailand and Vietnam, to

State Park, Death Valley to Big Sur. It’s a nat-

embodies multiculturalism. Here you can

rising new stars like Peru.

ural wonder.

immerse yourself in national traditions of

With so much to love, how can you not

all kinds, such as Japanese through the tea

fall under the spell of California? Whether

Activities and Exhilarations

ceremonies and festival dances in San

you arrive planning to spend a week or a

If you want to actively explore these won-

Francisco’s annual Cherry Blossom Fes-

month, you’ll find an inexhaustible

ders, there’s hiking, biking, sailing, skiing,

tival, Mexican through Cinco de Mayo

treasure trove of riches awaiting. So be pre-

surfing—just about every activity known to

celebrations, the Chinese New Year, the

pared: You may just decide you need a

woman or man. And the range of indoor

Sikh Festival in Yuba City, Solvang’s Danish

lifetime to enjoy them all.

activities is equally exciting, from contem-

Days, the Celtic Faire and Festival in

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

HISTORY

BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

A Home for Immigrants and Entrepreneurs

TALL SHIP Elegant sailing vessels such as Balclutha, above, sailed the California coast for decades before the age of sail came to a close. Her predecessors, the clipper ships, came into their own during the California Gold Rush, bringing 49ers and supplies around the Horn from the East Coast in record time. A typical New York-San Francisco sailing at that time took more than 200 days; in 1853, the clipper Flying Cloud made it in 89 days, 8 hours, a record that wasn’t broken until 1989!

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

A U.S. POSTAGE STAMP circa 1948 shows Sutter’s Mill, Coloma, to mark the centennial of the discovery of gold in California, top; square-rigged sailing ship Balclutha, built in 1886, at Hyde Street Pier, San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park, above.

The Spanish Franciscan friar blessing an

The United States is said to be a place

adobe church at Mission Basilica San Diego

where the world comes to begin again—to

Alcata in 1769; the Chilean miner trying his

reinvent itself, in the current coinage. If so,

luck panning for gold in a cold Sierra

California is the “America” of America. This

cataract in 1849; the Chinese laborer

was so even in pre-history, when the first

crossing the heaving Pacific to work on the

migrants from Asia crossed the land bridge

transcontinental railroad in 1869; the

between Siberia and Alaska, hung a right,

African American leaving the South to build

walked southward, found pastures of plenty,

warships on the Oakland waterfront in 1942;

rich marine life and heart-stoppingly beau-

the Haight-Ashbury hippie with her wakeful

tiful mountains and either decided to keep

dreaming in San Francisco’s Summer of

walking or stop right where they were.

Love in 1967; the Indian engineer launching

The place wasn’t called California then,

a high-tech startup in Palo Alto in 2013, all

of course. That came later, the name taken

have something in common: starting over.

from a 16th-century Spanish novel and used

WELCOMIA/SHUTTERSTOCK. TOP: ALEXANDERZAM/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE:B N RENEE; JAY BOIVIN/SHUTTERSTOCK; LUCA MOI/SHUTTERSTOCK

California has always been a place for starting over

1768: FIRST EUROPEANS SEE SAN FRANCISCO BAY

GASPAR DE PORTOLA and his expedition became the first Europeans known to see San Francisco Bay. Spain’s Manila Galleons had been sailing along the California coast for more than 200 years, but never spotted the bay because of the fog.

by explorers, soldiers and missionaries, who were themselves starting over in the New World. The Spanish built 21 Roman Catholic missions, from San Diego in the south to Sonoma in the north, from 1769 to 1823. In converting native communities to Christianity, the newcomers overwhelmed native cultures. Of necessity, the Native Americans started over in a bewildering new world. In 1821, Mexico, with its remote northernmost province, Alta California, wrenched itself free of the Spanish Empire. In 1833, the missions were secularized by the Mexican government and abandoned. Their buildings moldered, their pioneering vineyards and olive groves were eventually overgrown and forgotten. Not until the 20th century were the missions restored and revived. Many flourish today as redoubts of history and contemporary worship, handsome, evocative reminders of the first major European presence.

THE BEACH BOYS were a rock band formed in Hawthorne, California in 1961, known for their sweet harmonies and evocation of the SoCal surfer scene, above; San Juan Capistrano Mission bells, right; Bodie State Historic Park, below.

The Gold Rush Alta California grew slowly in its isolation. That changed on January 24, 1848, with the discovery of gold on the American River. The California Gold Rush, beginning in earnest in 1849, gave fortune-seekers a second—some said a last—chance to make good. Half-a-million newcomers—many from Europe, Asia, Latin America and Africa— globalized California in a hurry. The Mexican descendants of Spanish settlers—the Californios, with their sprawling ranchos and lives attuned to the slow turning of the seasons—were swept aside, left to start over. Many 49ers stayed on and found another kind of gold: richly productive new lives in a place where beginning afresh—personally, financially, even spiritually—was already a common rite of passage. In 1850, pried loose by the U.S. victory

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

HISTORY in the Mexican War and accelerated by the st

dream-weavers of Hollywood. In the 1940s,

Gold Rush, California became the 31 state

creative people from Europe such as Billy

of the United States. New Californians

Wilder and Thomas Mann, fleeing fascism

brought the new Golden State into being,

and war to begin anew, lent the movies an

plowing its fields, founding its great univer-

Old World artistic sensibility.

sities, building its cities.

California’s story since World War II has

California’s lustrous reputation was tar-

featured growth and more growth. Com-

nished on the morning of April 18, 1906,

bined with in-country migration, global

when a massive earthquake rocked

immigration made California the most

Northern California and leveled much of

populous state in the Union in 1962.

San Francisco; what the rolling, rumbling ground didn’t knock down, the ensuing

A Center for Change

firestorm burned down. Some 3,000 people

From the 1960s on, California has been, in

died. Now, it was San Francisco’s turn to

a positive sense, the most disruptive state

start over. San Francisco dramatized its

in the nation. Student political activism,

MACINTOSH SE, circa 1987, had a

recovery, and celebrated the new Panama

the hip counter-culture and early awaken-

case similar to the original Macintosh

Canal linking the Atlantic and the Pacific,

ings of the New Age movement found

computer, but with slight differences

with the splendidly showy Panama-Pacific

fertile ground in California. The in-season,

in color and styling, above; Hollywood

International Exposition of 1915.

sustainable, slow-food movement arguably

sign, below.

environmentalism in large part began in

Just two years after that optimistic display, the

California, when Scottish immigrant John

nation plunged into World War I. After the war

Muir founded the Sierra Club in San Fran-

ended in 1918, still more migrants rushed to

cisco back in 1892 and took President

California. In 1920, Los Angeles (and much

Theodore Roosevelt camping amid the nat-

later San Diego and San Jose) surged past San

ural wonders of Yosemite Valley in 1903.

Francisco in population. The orange groves

From the 1980s on, Silicon Valley has

and dusty byways of old Los Angeles began

joined Hollywood as a creative lodestar for

morphing into “LA”—more specifically, and

the whole planet. The high-technology

more mythically, “Hollywood.”

world has enshrined risk-taking, innova-

Actors, writers, directors and producers

tion, learning from failure and—you

streamed to Los Angeles, growing a quiet cot-

guessed it—starting over. Quoting another

tage industry of silent motion pictures into

California innovation, the 1960s Whole

a technologically advanced business. Stars

Earth Catalog, Apple’s Steve Jobs urged

were born in a place that came to be called

Stanford University graduates in a com-

“the dream factory.” Not a few of the Dust

mencement speech in 2005 to “stay

Bowl migrants who left the drought-stricken

hungry, stay foolish.”

Midwest for California in the 1930s got their first impressions of their new home from the

1911: FIRST TRANSCONTINENTAL FLIGHT & LONG BEACH AIRPORT

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Californians, across centuries and cultures, always have.

CALBRAITH PERRY RODGERS landed on the long, sandy shore at Long Beach to complete the first transcontinental flight in 1911. Until Long Beach Airport was created in 1923, planes used the beach as a runway. In 1919, on what would become the site of Long Beach Airport, barnstormer Earl S. Daugherty created the world’s first flight school. In 1922, Amelia Earhart took flying lessons from Long Beach aviator Monty Montijo.

LINDA MOON/SHUTTERSTOCK. TOP: HANNU VIITANEN/DEPOSITPHOTOS

took root fastest in California. American

The Rise of Hollywood

CA.CITIES

BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

Surprising California Cities

California’s golden cities—Los Angeles,

Public Market, with its locally sourced,

San Francisco, San Diego—are celebrated

seasonal bounty. The Napa Valley Wine

around the world, and rightly so. But the

Train rumbles north and south on three-

SAN LUIS OBISPO

Golden State has an engaging range of

hour excursions, offering full meals on

Cerro San Luis rises 1,292 feet above the inland city of San Luis Obispo. The landmark mountain is part of a chain of volcanic peaks called the Nine Sisters, or the Morros, that separate the city from Morro Bay and provide a dramatic backdrop for both. The peaks formed from the plugs of long-extinct volcanoes, and scientists say they have been inactive for 20 million years!

things to see and do in less-well-known

wheels and, of course, California wines.

locales, as well. In cities ranging in size

Michelin-starred La Toque in the Westin

from barely 3,000 inhabitants to more

Verasa Hotel highlights refined in-city

than 300,000, a surprising, eclectic menu

dining. First Street showcases a still-devel-

of food and drink, art and architecture, his-

oping

tory and sports is available to visitors.

eye-catching public art pieces. Napa’s ren-

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

cluster

art

galleries

and

ovated Uptown Theatre presents pop, folk

NAPA: More Than Wine

and blues music and pours premium

Napa is three places: city, valley and

wines, while the spruced-up 1880 Napa

county. Time was, Napa city was a place

Valley Opera House is a jewelbox venue for

visitors stopped only for gasoline. No

music, stand-up comedy and theater.

longer. The city is brimming with fine-

Moreover, center-city Napa is speckled

dining, new hotels, happening bars, a

with lovely bed and breakfast places in art-

handsome promenade downtown along

fully restored Victorian fantasias of

the Napa River and foodie favorite Oxbow

turrets, stained-glass and burnished wood.

LEIF ARNE STORSET (CC-BY-SA). OPPOSITE: DIMA ROGOZHIN/SHUTTERSTOCK; HENRIK LEHNERER /DEPOSITPHOTOS; LEONARD ZHUKOVSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK

Urban delights flourish throughout the state, and not just in California’s favorite cities

VENTURA: The Beach & Beaux-Arts Under-the-radar Ventura city, the county seat of agricultural Ventura County, is a classic Southern California beach town, with surprising twists. Located a few minutes south of Santa Barbara and an hour’s drive north of Los Angeles, the Ventura Beach section is popular with surfers, paddle-boarders, joggers, sailors and sunworshippers. Walking distance from the sands, Ventura city’s fast-reviving downtown boasts a mix of restaurants, shops and wine bars along Main Street, including the massive, multi-level restaurant and music venue Watermark. The Beaux-Arts 1912 City Hall is an impressive sight on its creator of the fictional courtroom wizard

SAN LUIS OBISPO: Mission, Vineyards & the Outdoors

Perry Mason, practiced law just down the

Nestled between the Pacific Ocean 11 miles

hill. The outdoor apparel company Patag-

to the west and the San Lucia Mountains

onia showcases its headquarters store in a

just to the east, this central-coast city of

renovated heritage building on West Santa

45,000 is located midway between San

Clara Street. At the city’s bustling marina,

Francisco and Los Angeles. Easily acces-

the Channel Islands National Park visitors

sible by train on Amtrak or via U.S.

center dispenses useful information. Park

Interstate 101 and famously scenic Cali-

concessionaire Island Packers operates

fornia Route 1, the historic core of the city

ferry runs year-round to splendid, rugged

clusters around the 1759 Mission San Luis

off-shore isles, churning past leaping dol-

Obispo de Tolosa. This is the place to find

phins and spouting migratory whales.

restaurants, cafés and shops. Music and

downtown hilltop; Erle Stanley Gardner,

theater productions are mounted on the campus of California Polytechnic Institute (“Cal Poly’’). Outdoorsy visitors and locals hike and bike the Nine Sisters hills. The marine-minded head to the sometimeschilly, foggy coast with their wetsuits for surfing, kayaking and wind-surfing. South of the city is prime territory for winery touring and tasting: the expansive Edna Valley wine-producing region.

RIVERFRONT IN NAPA, left; California street in Ventura, middle; Ventura’s famous pier, top; Cerro San Luis and San Luis Obispo, opposite.

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CA.CITIES

THE CARSON MANSION, above, built in 1884-1885 in Old Town Eureka, is considered the finest example of Queen Anne style Victorian houses in America. In Bakersfield, an urban renewal project took advantage of an irrigation canal to produce a park with rock-lined lake and covered bridge, right. Tournament of Roses Parade in Pasadena, opposite.

FIND YOUR CITY FUN

Ventura ventura-usa.com, 800-648-2075

BAKERSFIELD: Buck Owens & Basques

Palace, with its mementos of Owens and his

Calling all honky-tonk angels: Bakersfield

band, the Buckaroos, and catch a show by

San Luis Obispo visitslo.com, 805-781-2777

may just be a must-stop. Once home to

contemporary country musicians. It’s a fine

country-music legends Merle Haggard and

place to listen to a swooning steel guitar by

Bakersfield visitbakersfield.com, 866-425-7353

the late Buck Owens, this San Joaquin Valley

the light of the juke box.

Nevada City nevadacountygold.com, 530-265-2692 Eureka redwoods.info, 800-346-3482 Palm Desert palm-desert.org, 800-873-2428 Pasadena visitpasadena.com, 800-307-7977

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community’s workaday, unpretentious inland and northwest of Los Angeles, Bak-

NEVADA CITY: Postcard from the Gold Rush

ersfield is reached via California routes 99

In 2010, this postcard-pretty inland com-

and 58. The city of 323,000 is home to one

munity in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada

of the largest and most vibrant Basque com-

counted 3,068 residents—1,000 fewer than

munities in the United States. Family-style

it had in 1880 in the afterglow of the 1849

Basque restaurants like Wool Growers and

California Gold Rush. These days, travelers

the Pyrenees Café add diversity to the

journey to Nevada City’s woodsy setting on

downhome cooking of Bakersfield’s truck

the western slopes to admire impeccably

stops and roadside diners. Fans of country

restored 19th-century buildings, take in

music can drop by Buck Owens’ Crystal

scenic hillside views, ski the nearby

facade masks a city of surprises. Located

JAYME BURROWS AND RICHARD THORNTON/SHUTTERSTOCK..OPPOSITE: MARIE APPERT/SHUTTERSTOCK

Napa visitnapavalley.com, 707-251-5895

mountains, and head to High Country

ture such as the grand 1886 Carson Man-

the Performing Arts, and visitors can view

attractions such as Lake Tahoe. The Gold

sion at 2nd and M streets. Shops,

mid-20th-century commercial buildings

Rush is memorialized at the Miners

restaurants and B&Bs occupy some of a

and homes on free architectural tours.

Foundry Cultural Center and by historical

staggering 1,500 Eureka buildings listed on

mining exhibits in City Hall. Eye-pleasing

the National Register of Historic Places.

PASADENA: Rose Bowl & Bungalows

and walkable, much of downtown Nevada

One-million-acre Six Rivers National

Located 10 miles northeast of Los Angeles

City is listed on the National Register of His-

Forest is a near neighbor.

at the foot of the imposing San Gabriel Mountains, this pretty city of 140,000 is

toric Places. The Nevada Theatre, a smartly restored heritage building, hosts a variety of

PALM DESERT: Low-Profile Oasis

best-known for the Granddaddy of ’em All:

live entertainment.

Eleven miles from high-profile Palm

the annual Rose Bowl football game, its

Springs is sunny Palm Desert, a city of

ever-popular Tournament of Roses Parade

EUREKA: Redwoods & Victorians

48,000 in the Coachella Valley. Palm

and delightful parody the Doo-Dah Parade.

Tucked into the northwestern corner of

Desert combines the manicured lawns,

Some 800 restored early 20th-century

California, Eureka, 270 miles north of San

golf courses, tennis courts and swimming

wooden bungalows, clustered in the Bun-

Francisco on Humboldt Bay, has the largest

pools of a manmade oasis with rugged

galow Heaven Historic District, give

deep-water port between San Francisco

cycling, off-road hiking and 4-wheel-drive

Pasadena a signature architectural look.

Bay and Washington’s Puget Sound. The

excursions in the surrounding desert. Golf

Shopping and dining are abundant along

city of 27,000 also serves as the unofficial

is available at 10 city-owned golf courses,

pedestrian-friendly South Lake Avenue, in

capital of the state’s Redwood Empire.

plus prime links such as the J.W. Marriott

the Playhouse District and in revived, 22-

Once famed for its timber, mines and fish-

Desert Springs Resort’s 18-hole Palm

block Old Pasadena. The Huntington

eries, Eureka is a leading West Coast

Course. The city displays more than 130

combines a distinguished library complete

purveyor of succulent farmed oysters.

public-art pieces, many clustered along El

with a Gutenberg Bible, centuries of priceless

Most significantly for visitors, Eureka is an

Paseo or Fred Waring Drive. Culture is on-

fine-art pieces and extensive and beautiful

attractive preserve of Victorian architec-

stage at the 1980s McCallum Theatre for

botanical gardens all in one place.

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CA.MUSEUMS & ART

BY JAN RODRICKS

Creativity, Unlimited California’s museums are temples of the human spirit

The Legion of Honor, above, commands a dramatic setting atop Lincoln Park with views of the grand Pacific Ocean. Combined with the de Young Museum in Golden Gate Park, they form the largest public arts institution in San Francisco. For more on the “City by the Bay,” see pages 72-76.

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While the world’s image of California fea-

Science

tures sunshine, surfboards and redwoods,

2013 was a historic year for San Francisco,

the Golden State is equally famous for its

with a spectacular “new” museum opening

museums—some of which are so innova-

on the waterfront Embarcadero. After

tive they’ve inspired imitators around the

more than 40 years in its original home at

world. Since California is a diverse state,

the Palace of Fine Arts, the world-famous

you’ll find art celebrating a broad spectrum

Exploratorium moved to a spectacular new

of cultures. And because it’s at the cutting

building at Pier 15. Founded in 1969 by

edge of research and technology, many

atomic scientist Frank Oppenheimer, the

museums focus on science—from anima-

dizzying new space includes more than

tronic dinosaurs to touchable tornadoes.

600 interactive exhibits—including an

Whether you’re drawn to Picasso’s Pink

amazing “Tinkerers’ Clock,” fantastic

Period or fascinated by the mysteries of

optical illusions and an Observatory with

black holes, California has a museum that

stunning views of San Francisco Bay. The

will enlighten and inspire you.

crawl-through Tactile Dome (reservations

FINE ARTS MUSEUMS OF SAN FRANCISCO. OPPOSITE: THE J. PAUL GETTY MUSEUM

SAN FRANCISCO FINE ARTS

A MUSE by Rosalba Carriera (16731757), above, hangs in The J. Paul Getty Museum, Los Angeles, right.

required) will open in the summer of 2014.

The Arts

sculpture garden is beautiful and serene.

Ten years and half a billion dollars in

For many international visitors, one high-

Nearby, in San Marino, the sprawling

the making, the California Academy of Sci-

light of their California visit is the fabulous

Beaux-Arts mansion and grounds of finan-

ences in Golden Gate Park features a

Getty Museum—which includes the Getty

cier Henry E. Huntington are now The

walk-through rainforest with free-ranging

Center in Los Angeles and the Getty Villa in

Huntington Library, with its 120 acres of

birds and butterflies, the world’s largest

Malibu. The world-renowned Villa will

botanical gardens. Here you can view a

all-digital planetarium, and a “Living Roof”

have a marvelous run of exhibitions in

Gutenberg Bible, admire Audubon’s bird

with 1.7 million native California plants: a

2014, from a portrait of the Emperor

drawings and see “some of the finest rare

world unto itself.

Tiberius to The Art of Byzantium. At the

books and manuscripts of Anglo-American

Two hours south of San Francisco, the

more modern Center (which features the

civilization.” The adjoining art collection

Monterey Bay Aquarium deserves to be listed

Medieval period to the present), artists will

spans four centuries.

among the Seven Wonders of the World for

range from Queen Victoria to Ansel Adams.

Ninety miles north of LA, the Santa Bar-

its fantastic displays of sea otters and jellies,

Touring downtown Los Angeles? It’s

bara Museum of Art is renowned for its

its hypnotic three-story kelp forest and a

possible (and desirable) to spend hours

ambitious and imaginative exhibitions. An

staggering million-gallon “Outer Bay” tank

wandering through the galleries of the Los

equal distance to the south, San Diego’s

that holds visitors enraptured for hours. Get

Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA).

Museum of Photographic Arts in Balboa

tickets in advance, and give yourself one full

The museum always has at least a few great

Park is California’s only museum dedicated

day for the marvel of a museum.

temporary shows, but it’s worth a visit for

exclusively to photography, film and video.

The Tech Museum in San Jose (the heart

their permanent collections. Just try not to

San Francisco’s two classical art

of Silicon Valley) is the country’s first

get waylaid by the voluptuous gods and

museums are as architecturally different as

museum dedicated to the digital world,

goddesses in the outstanding Asian Art

two buildings can be. The Legion of

with exhibits on robots, the Internet and

collection.

the

Honor—set in Lincoln Park, on a hill over-

the ever-popular Earthquake Platform. A

Museum of Contemporary Art (MoCA) and

looking the Golden Gate Bridge and Pacific

special Star Wars exhibition continues

Geffen Contemporary are showcases for

Ocean—is a ¾-scale recreation of Paris’

through February 2014.

the best in 20th- and 21st-century painting,

Palais de la Légion d’Honneur, and holds an

In Los Angeles’ Exposition Park, the Cal-

sculpture and conceptual artwork. Also

extraordinary collection of European art as

ifornia Science Center still claims to be the

downtown, the architecturally dazzling

well as changing exhibitions from around

largest hands-on science museum on the

Broad Museum is expected to open on

the world. Close to the entrance, sur-

West Coast, with ongoing exhibits on

Grand Street in 2014, with more than 2,000

rounded by Beaux-Arts columns, is a

ecology, space travel and the worlds of

works of contemporary art.

bronze cast of The Thinker—one of 70 Rodin

Farther

downtown,

invention and innovation. In 2014, crowds

In Pasadena, the Norton Simon Museum

will arrive to see the Space Shuttle

features a wide range of Modern and Euro-

In nearby Golden Gate Park, meanwhile,

Endeavor, and view a photographic record

pean artists, including this writer’s favorite

the de Young is literally a pillar of modern

of its epic journey to the museum.

Picasso (Woman with a Book, 1932). The

architecture. Featuring a 10-story observa-

sculptures in the museum’s collection.

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CA.MUSEUMS & ART

» FIND YOUR ART

tion tower, the de Young is Northern

of its museums reflect the racial mix and

California’s premier metropolitan art

cultural history of this melting pot in

museum, including exhibits of the arts of

microcosm. Here’s a brief sample; there are

Africa, Oceania and the Americas. Tempo-

many, many more.

rary exhibits in 2014 will include Georgia O’Keefe, Matisse and Anders Zorn. The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art is undergoing renovations, and will be

In Sacramento (the state’s capital), the California Museum features the California Hall of Fame, celebrating local legends from the Beach Boys to Tiger Woods.

closed until 2016. Their motto is, “We’ve

In San Francisco’s North Beach, the Beat

temporarily moved...everywhere.” Check

Museum is affectionately known as “The

their website (see sidebar) for a shifting

House Jack (Kerouac) Built.” Downtown,

landscape of exhibitions, at various loca-

the Contemporary Jewish Museum and

tions around the Bay Area.

nearby Museum of the African Diaspora

A short BART ride (or drive across the

(MoAD) provide fascinating insights into

brand new Bay Bridge) from San Francisco,

two of California’s most creative ethnic tra-

the Oakland Museum of California re-

ditions. Visiting the Asian Art Museum, in

opened in 2010 after extensive renovations.

the re-imagined San Francisco Public

Dedicated to the arts, culture and natural

Library, is the next best thing to a trip along

history of California, this handsome gem is

the ancient Silk Road.

one of the state’s best museums, offering

For a taste of luminous California kitsch,

terrific temporary exhibits on themes

the Museum of Neon Art offers bus cruises

ranging from the Day of the Dead to “A Cine-

through the high-voltage landmarks of

matic Study of Fog.” The museum’s beautiful

downtown Los Angeles. Also in LA, the Mex-

wing on California’s Natural History was re-

ican Museum showcases “more than 12,000

opened in 2013, with wonderful recreations

objects representing thousands of years of

of California’s cultural evolution. And while

Mexican art and culture within the Amer-

you’re in the East Bay, the Berkeley Art

icas,” while in Long Beach, the Museum of

Museum—on the campus of UC Berkeley—

Latin American Art (MoLAA) features

often features displays of Asian art.

modern and contemporary work by artists from all over the New World. Anaheim’s

Culture

Muzeo opened in 2010, offering sweeping

California is a remarkably diverse state,

exhibitions on megathemes ranging from

home to more than 50 ethnic groups. Many

Black Leather to Chocolate.

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THE ARTS Fine Arts Museums of SF famsf.org SF MOMA sfmoma.org Oakland Museum of California museumca.org LACMA lacma.org MoCA moca.org Geffen Contemporary moca.org Norton Simon Museum nortonsimon.org The Huntington Library huntington.org Getty Center & Getty Villa getty.edu/visit Santa Barbara Museum of Art sbmuseart.org Museum of Photographic Arts mopa.org SCIENCE California Science Center californiasciencecenter.org The Tech Museum thetech.org Monterey Bay Aquarium montereybayaquarium.org California Academy of Sciences calacademy.org Exploratorium exploratorium.edu CULTURE The California Museum californiamuseum.org Beat Museum thebeatmuseum.org Contemporary Jewish Museum thecjm.org MoAD moadsf.org Asian Art Museum asianart.org Museum of Neon Art neonmona.org Mexican Museum mexicanmuseum.org MoLAA molaa.com Muzeo muzeo.org

MICHAEL LAYEFSKY; FINE ARTS MUSEUMS OF SAN FRANCISCO. OPPOSITE: ERIK TOMASSON. RIGHT:JOAN MARCUS.

AERIAL VIEW of the de Young Museum, below; de Young gallery interior, right.

CA.PERFORMING ARTS

BY JAN RODRICKS

Golden State Greasepaint Throughout California, performance is a passion

What would one expect, though, from the birthplace of I Love Lucy and the home of the San Francisco Mime Troupe? The performing arts rank among California’s stellar strengths, and the variety of choices—sacred, profane and everything

MORE THAN MOVIES Hollywood gets all the notoriety, but performing arts of all sorts thrive in California, from the San Francisco Ballet’s Nutcracker, above, to LA’s Roundabout Theatre Company’s Anything Goes, right. For more on San Francisco, see pages 72-76; for more on Los Angeles, see pages 94-101.

in between—is exhilarating and mad-

From the Gold Rush days to the Tech

dening. A full accounting is impossible in

Boom,

the

a few paragraphs, but here are some sug-

lifeblood of California. Even in the classic

gestions to bear in mind if you are visiting

1936 film San Francisco, Mary Blake

the state’s urban hubs, north or south.

performance

has

been

(Jeanette MacDonald) is seen singing her heart out at the Paradise moments before

Regional Theaters

the Great Earthquake strikes. Today,

In San Diego, the La Jolla Playhouse has

nearly every town in California boasts a

seen ten of its productions move across

stage of its own—from the North Coast

the continent to Broadway. The Old Globe

Repertory Theater in Eureka to San

Theater presents the plays of Shakespeare

Diego’s Coronado Playhouse. The state’s

as well as works by the likes of Arthur

dozens of concert halls, symphony

Miller and the late local resident, Dr. Seuss.

orchestras, comedy clubs, dance compa-

Los Angeles, naturally, features dozens

nies, theater groups, operas, fringe

of small theater companies—such as the

festivals, jazz haunts and even circuses

Cornerstone, Open Fist, Actor’s Co-op and

offer a constant threat to the notion of

profound Blank Theater (which hosts the

spending a quiet night (or even an after-

Young Playwrights Festival in June 2014). The

noon) at home.

city’s star attraction is the Center Theatre

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CA.PERFORMING ARTS

ACADEMY AWARD nominee David Strathairn in Underneath the Lintel at San Francisco’s ACT Theatre, right; exterior of Berkeley Repertory Theatre, below.

A terrific recent addition to the Bay Area theater scene is WE Players, led by visionary artistic director Ava Roy. In collaboration with the National Park Service, WE Players have performed Hamlet on Alcatraz, The Odyssey on Angel Island and Macbeth at Fort Point. Check their website (see sidebar) for upcoming shows. Half a dozen California regional playhouses have won Tony Awards—the highest distinction in American theater. The Berkeley Repertory Theatre, 30 minutes by car or BART from San Francisco, continues a tradition of inspired experimentation, with works by playwrights such as Mary Zimmerman and Harold Pinter, and solo shows by artists including Rita Moreno, Mike Daisey, Anna Devere Smith and many others. And while you’re in the East Bay, don’t overlook “Cal Shakes”—the California open-air venue in the Orinda hills. Group, with three stages: The Mark Taper

Other terrific theaters include the South

Forum, Kirk Douglas and Ahmanson the-

Coast Repertory in Costa Mesa, the San Jose

aters. Here you’ll find everything from

Repertory and the Sacramento Theater Com-

top-notch musicals (including Porgy & Bess

pany. Finally, the state hosts no less than five

in 2014) to cutting-edge solo performance.

Fringe Festivals—google “Fringe Festival Cal-

San Francisco might be called Cali-

ifornia” to find up-to-date listings.

fornia’s theater capital. Home of the

SEBASTIANI THEATRE, Sonoma, above.

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legendary American Conservatory Theater

Symphonies, Opera & Ballet

(ACT, which premiered Angels in America),

In the late 19th century, the pride of every

the city offers live performance for every

major city was its opera house. Opera still

taste. The Eureka, Z Space, Aurora and

maintains a huge following across Cali-

Shotgun Players are just a few of the city’s

fornia, with no less than 29 companies

native companies—not to mention the

across the state—five in the LA area alone.

politically charged San Francisco Mime

The San Francisco Opera and Los Angeles

Troupe, now in its 56th rabble-rousing year.

Opera are two of the largest in the United

For superb solo performance, The Marsh (“A

States, with global reputations for set pro-

breeding ground for new performance”) has

duction and excellence—but kudos as well

built a solid reputation with its four small

to the renowned Long Beach Opera, now in

theaters in both San Francisco and Berkeley.

its fourth decade.

FROM THE TOP: KEVIN BERNE; CHESHIRE ISAACS; CATHY STANCIL PHOTOGRAPHY. OPPOSITE: BAY TAPER

Shakespeare Company—with its gorgeous

MICHAEL TILSON THOMAS conducts the San Francisco Symphony Orchestra, left.

A » FIND PERFORMANCE Berkeley Repertory Theatre berkeleyrep.org WE Players weplayers.org

Jazz & Blues

Owen Gehry, the Walt Disney Concert Hall

It’s impossible to list all of California’s live

was engineered to be one of the most acousti-

music venues in so little space, so here’s a

cally perfect performance venues on earth.

sampler of the state’s very best jazz and

It’s also one of the most striking buildings in

blues clubs. We have to begin with revered

the world, both inside and out—as well as the

Yoshi’s, on Fillmore Street in San Francisco

home of the renowned and innovative Los

and Jack London Square in Oakland;

Angeles Philharmonic. California’s other pre-

Velma’s and The Saloon, also in San Fran-

eminent orchestra is of course the San

cisco, for blues; Kimball’s East and the 57th

Francisco Symphony, under the musical

Street Gallery, also in Oakland; the

direction of Michael Tilson Thomas, at home

Kuumbwa Jazz Center in Santa Cruz;

in Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall.

Steamers in Fullerton; the Baked Potato

But California’s two biggest cities don’t

and Catalina in Hollywood; Charlie O’s in

have a monopoly on great music. San Diego,

Van Nuys; and The Torch Club (for Blues)

Sacramento, Santa Cruz and Santa Barbara

in Sacramento.

all support superb orchestras of their own. Ballet in the Golden State has an equally

Circus & Cabaret

impressive pedigree. The San Francisco

Founded by the late Clifford Vargas, the

Ballet, founded in 1933, was the first profes-

Circus Vargas is California’s largest home-

sional ballet company in the United States.

grown circus, featuring a vast Big Top that

The California Ballet Company in San Diego

covers two acres and requires 30 people to

has attained a stellar international reputa-

put up and pull down. The Cirque du

tion, and remains the largest professional

Soleil is also a frequent visitor to the state,

ballet company in Southern California. Cel-

with scheduled appearances in most of

ebrating its eighth anniversary in the 2014

the major cities. In 2013/2014 they’ll be

season, the Los Angeles Ballet is a prom-

presenting two shows: Amaluna in

ising new addition to the scene, as well as

Northern California, and Totem in the Los

the reinvigorated Oakland Ballet.

Angeles area.

Center Theatre Group centertheatregroup.org California Shakespeare Company calshakes.org The Marsh themarsh.org Aurora Theater Company auroratheater.org San Francisco Mime Troupe sfmt.org Blank Theater theblank.com San Francisco Symphony sfsymphony.org Los Angeles Philharmonic laphil.com California Ballet Company californiaballet.org Kuumbwa Jazz Center kuumbwajazz.org Yoshi’s Jazz Club yoshis.com Catalina catalinajazzclub.com Circus Vargas circusvargas.org

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CA.ARCHITECTURE & GARDENS

BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

Building in Harmony From the Golden Gate Bridge to hidden retreats, Californians have always embraced the new and environmentally attuned

In the hills of Saratoga overlooking Silicon Valley, Hakone Gardens provides an oasis of peace and tranquility to balance the frenetic pace of the tech world below. Hakone Gardens is a National Trust for Historic Preservation site and is the oldest Japanese and Asian estate, retreat and gardens in the Western Hemisphere. For more on Silicon Valley, see pages 86-91.

Architecture in California and the lush

pendent Mexican government desancti-

public gardens that add grace notes to the

fied them. After moldering for years, many

Golden State began to take shape in the late

were reconstructed in the 20th century,

18th century, when the Spanish advanced

opening to the public for tours, history les-

north from Mexico City to the rustic,

sons and, of course, worship. Today, you

remote province of Alta California.

can find information about all things Mis-

The California missions, 21 Roman Catholic churches built from 1769 to 1823

sion online at the California Missions Resource Center.

on a north-south axis, set the tone. The

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adobe-walled, orange-tile-roofed churches

Missions to Victorians to Beaux Arts

erected by the Franciscan friars, eventually

The missions influenced California archi-

formed the heart of major cities such as San

tecture and design for years to come. The

Diego, Los Angeles and San Francisco. The

abundant open spaces, arches, tile-roofed

missions’ gardens were strictly utilitarian,

buildings and breezy arcades of Stanford

intended to produce food. Eye-pleasing

University’s main quad are legacies of the

garden design blossomed later.

Mission colonial era. The ornately elabo-

The Spanish-flavored colonial buildings

rated Casa de Balboa, in San Diego’s Balboa

fell into disrepair after the newly inde-

Park, is another design legacy of the

JERRY VENZ. OPPOSITE: PALETTE7/SHUTTERSTOCK; SAN FRANCISCO TRAVEL ASSOCIATION/SCOTT CHERNIS

HAKONE GARDENS

cables, thrusting towers and trademark International Orange color, the Golden Gate Bridge dramatizes the energy, ambition and power of Art Deco. The next breakthrough for architecture in California came around the turn of the new millennium with what could be called Computer Contemporary style. Here, too, missions, as is the splendid 1927 San

shingle wooden homes of Berkeley, fea-

Gabriel Mission Playhouse.

tured on Berkeley Architecture Heritage

Frank Gehry’s brilliantly realized 2003

By the 1860s, long, deep, narrow, high-

Association walking tours, are pleasing

Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles,

ceilinged wooden row houses populated

examples of the American Arts and Crafts

with its swooping roofs and shining metallic

boomtowns like San Francisco. The Victo-

style. Berkeley affords glimpses of the Bay

exterior, is a fantasia that couldn’t have been

rians were built from the 1860s to the

Region style, a version of Arts and Crafts

designed without sophisticated computers

1910s. In the 1970s, the once-modest

practiced by Bay Area architects Bernard

or built without modern alloys. The perfo-

houses were reborn as gentrified, vibrantly

Maybeck and Julia Morgan.

rated copper exterior of San Francisco’s 2005 th

the Golden State shines.

hued Painted Ladies. Surviving California

The streamlined power of early 20 -

de Young Museum is of a piece with the con-

Victorians are especially numerous in San

century technology found mesmerizing

temporary, cutting edge work inside. For an

Francisco, clustered on Alamo Square and

form in the Art Deco style of the 1920s and

artful fusion of modern technique and nat-

in the Haight-Ashbury, Western Addition

1930s. Perhaps the noblest example of Art

uralism, the environmentally attuned 2008

and Mission districts. Urban eye candy,

Deco in North America is the 1937 Golden

home of the California Academy of Sciences

they are featured on City Guides San Fran-

Gate Bridge. With its taut suspension

in Golden Gate Park is a must-see.

cisco walking tours. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, other, newer styles began catching on in California. Beaux Arts architecture lent grandeur to citadels of commerce and government buildings, bequeathing to San Francisco its majestic, domed 1915 City Hall, and the classically graceful, open-air Palace of Fine Arts. But Beaux Arts was a European import, not essentially Californian.

Arts & Crafts to Computer Contemporary American Arts and Crafts became closely associated with California at the turn of the 20th century. The use of natural materials such as warm, burnished wood panels and beams, glass and stone reflected Californians’ deep feeling for nature. Such buildings, exemplified by the 1908 Gamble House in Pasadena, seemed to grow organically out of the earth. The cedar brown

GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE details dramatize the energy, ambition and power of Art Deco, above and right; Walt Disney Concert Hall features Frank Gehry’s iconic architecture, Los Angeles, top; Hakone Gardens, opposite.

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CA.ARCHITECTURE & GARDENS MISSION SAN GABRIEL ARCANGEL was founded in 1771 and remains a fully functioning Roman Catholic mission and historic landmark in San Gabriel, right.

Gardens North & South Major formal public gardens in the modern sense blossomed in California in the early 20th century, often in association with great private fortunes, enormous mansions and expansive public parks. The Asian splendor of Hakone Garden, Hailed as the oldest Japanese and Asian

A decade later, in 1925, Casa del Herrero

Both Los Angeles and San Francisco host

estate garden in the Americas, Hakone is a

(House of the Blacksmith) opened its deco-

distinguished public botanical gardens. San

loving replica of a traditional Samurai or

rative Spanish Colonial Revival mansion, a

Francisco debuted the erstwhile Strybing

Shogun estate garden. Spreading over 18

style still hugely popular in host city Santa

Arboretum in 1940 on 55 acres in Golden Gate

hilly acres, serene Hakone Garden is

Barbara. Today, the estate is also celebrated

Park. Now called San Francisco Botanical

known for koi ponds, waterfalls and

for its Moorish garden with its water foun-

Garden, it is renowned for its rhododendron

strolling and meditative walks.

tain and hedged outdoors “rooms.”

glen, magnolia collection, redwood grove and native California plants. The Los Angeles

» FIND YOUR STYLE & DESIGN

County Arboretum and Botanic Garden was opened in 1956 in aptly named Arcadia, with a lovely waterfall, Queen Anne cottage and garden of perennials.

ARCHITECTURE California Missions Resource Center missionscalifornia.com Main Quad, Stanford University stanford.edu/dept/visitorinfo/tours

de Young Museum deyoung.famsf.org GARDENS Hakone Garden hakone.com

By mid-century, great gardens were blooming around the state. The Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens (1961) shows off an inspired profusion of blooms on winding Highway 1 at Fort Bragg. In fairly quick suc-

Casa de Balboa balboapark.org San Gabriel Mission Playhouse missionplayhouse.org Walking Tours of San Francisco sfcityguides.org The Gamble House gamblehouse.org Maybeck Houses Tour of Berkeley (Berkeley Architectural Heritage Association) berkeleyheritage.com

Casa del Herrero, House of the Blacksmith casadelherrero.com San Francisco Botanical Garden (formerly Strybing Arboretum) sfbotanicalgarden.org Los Angeles County Arboretum & Botanical Garden arboretum.org

cession, more major public gardens followed. Among them: 654-acre Filoli, nestled in the hills of Woodside south of San Francisco. Debuting in 1975, Filoli is known for lovely paths and ponds, a charming rose garden, 250year-old live oak trees and 16th-century English Renaissance Garden. In 1985, Palo Alto opened its 2.5-acre Elizabeth F. Gamble Garden. In

Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens gardenbythesea.org Filoli filoli.org

Golden Gate Bridge goldengatebridge.org

Elizabeth F. Gamble Garden gamblegarden.org

Walt Disney Concert Hall laphil.com

Ganna Walska Lotusland lotusland.org

1993, the former estate of Polish opera singer and socialite Ganna Walska opened near Santa Barbara as Lotusland, featuring fruit orchards, a succulent garden and a butterfly garden. Each garden has its own charms and particularities, but every one shares California’s passionate embrace of the new, the innovative and the environmentally attuned.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

KEN WOLTER/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: SAN FRANCISCO TRAVEL ASSOCIATION/SCOTT CHERNIS. TOP: JOHN BIRCHARD PHOTOGRAPHY.

opened in Saratoga in 1915, showed the way.

CA.CUISINE

BY JUDY ZIMOLA

Local Flavor Set with linens or served standing up, the California table offers something wonderful for everyone

SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA FOOD San Francisco has more restaurants per capita than any other U.S. city, and most of them are good. Old standards that have been around for decades still hold their own against innovative new arrivals. SF’s Mission district has become a foodie haven and surrounding communities from Berkeley to Palo Alto to Napa and Sonoma all bring exquisite food to the table. For more on this region, see pages 72-91.

YOU MUST TAKE A TASTE at San Francisco’s farmers markets, above; things are sizzling at the Crabcake Cook-off in Fort Bragg, Mendocino County, top right.

Back in the dawn of California food,

with an avocado on it earned the label

before gray salt and blue corn chips and

“California,” a joke that wore thin with the

infused olive oils grabbed headlines, there

public and the avocadoes after about the

was the alfalfa sprout. It adorned its host,

third telling. Then in 1971 came Alice

usually a tomato-cucumber-on-whole-

Waters, owner and chef at Berkeley’s Chez

wheat sandwich, like a doodle. Perched in

Panisse. She, along with peers Wolfgang

a loose scribble of “that’s cool, man” green,

Puck, Jeremiah Tower and Jonathan

it tasted like it looked: airy, good-natured,

Waxman, brought fresh, local, organic

nothing too challenging.

food to the forefront of culinary con-

The food scene continued in that

sciousness. Suddenly, dear old Brussels

fashion for quite some time. Anything

sprouts and beets found themselves the

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

CA.CUISINE

The rich soil of the Santa Cruz Mountains

Baby’s Badass Burgers, a hot pink truck

grows many of the fruits and vegetables that

that prowls the LA streets, is a sort of Hooters

inspire the menu at Los Gatos restaurant

on wheels whose tank top-sportin’ servers

Manresa. Founder David Kinch uses fresh

dish up suggestively-named burgers: She’s

ingredients from Love Apple Farms in Ben

Smokin!, or The Cougar. Eco-minded The

Lomond. All restaurant compost goes back to

Melt serves up grilled cheese sandwiches

Love Apple Farms, creating a “closed circle”

from repurposed yellow school buses, a

between farm, restaurant guests and kitchen.

wink at the nostalgia associated with

The food is dynamic, and dessert can even

scarfing grilled cheese as a kid. The Melt

sound like a late summer evening: exotic

offers all-natural foods: “Driver carries no

citrus with honey and spices featuring granité

Velveeta,” the side of one bus reads.

of oroblanco pomelo beneath spearmint ice

Chances are, no matter how small the town,

cream and a crown of orange tuile.

a food truck has rolled in and is parked

toast of the table, sharing intimate din-

Luckily for those in California, how-

close by, ready to wow the locals with tooth-

ners with artisanal cheeses and flirty

ever, remarkable food can be found almost

some goodies. They also love a good party,

purees. The California food scene was

anywhere, reservations not required.

and many are readily available to cater

irrevocably transformed.

private events.

The “fresh and local” idea has grown up,

Meals on Wheels

to the point where many notable chefs are

California’s love affair with cool cars and

Look for the Cop Cars

growing or sourcing their food just min-

the open road resulted in the drive-thrus

Experienced chow hounds (in diner lingo

utes

kitchens.

often romanticized in classic movies. In-N-

they’re never called “foodies”) know there

Asparagus culled from the garden in

Out claims to have built the first drive-thru

are three things to look for when seeking a

Yountville’s French Laundry is trans-

restaurant, complete with intercom and

bona fide diner: pickups or law enforcement

formed into an “OMG” experience, thanks

carhop, in Baldwin Park, California (near

vehicles parked out front; a missing neon

to founding chef Thomas Keller’s obses-

LA) in 1948. Close on their buns came Jack

light or letter from the restaurant’s sign; and

sion with detail—he’ll serve it only during

in the Box, Carl’s Jr. and Big Boy.

a screen door or linoleum floor. When

from

their

gourmet

the three or four weeks in spring when it’s

Nowadays, if the patron can’t drive to

nothing will do but roll-up-your-sleeves

at its peak. Legendary for its innovative

the diner, the diner will drive to the

fare, Californians don’t need to go very far.

use of ingredients (salad of Dungeness

patron. With offerings such as Kobe beef

Every town has a neighborhood diner that

crab, apple gelée and fines herbes, ripe figs

sliders, double cream Brie grilled cheese

fuels hungry patrons with generous por-

atop sweet onion flan), The French

sandwich, or creampuffs filled with

tions and a special timeworn comfort.

Laundry has delivered superlative food

bourbon vanilla cream and topped with

Places like It’s Tops Coffee Shop in San

since it opened in 1978, earning three stars

chocolate glaze, food trucks serve up a

Francisco, serving burgers with honest

from Michelin and was pronounced “best

mouthwatering array of offerings, and the

fixings like mayo, lettuce, tomato and

restaurant in the world, period” by

trend that experts say began in 2008 shows

grilled onions, don’t try to impress and

Anthony Bourdain.

no sign of slowing down.

don’t need to. The Original Red Hut Waffle

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

JEREMY BALL/SOLVANGUSA.COM; SONOMA COUNTY WINEGRAPE COMMISSION. OPPOSITE: FREDA BANKS. TOP: GILROY WELCOME CENTER

TASTE THE GOOD LIFE from Sonoma County, famous for wine, organic farms, artisan cheese and fresh produce, right; Melissa Halme Redell, co-owner of The Solvang Bakery, offers her luscious Danish pastries, below.

THE SEAFOOD CART makes the rounds at State Bird Provisions in San Francisco, right; fruit and vegetable truck at Casa de Fruta, Gilroy, above.

Shop in South Lake Tahoe nourishes with banana waffles cloaked in whipped cream. Corned beef hash and fresh muffins beckon customers back to Nat’s Early Bite Coffee Shop in LA. A diner’s highest praise often comes from the left hand—patrons

Consumers’ awareness of fresh, local,

swoon over the eggs benedict at Egghead’s

organic food has given farmers markets a

Restaurant in Fort Bragg after calling it a

newfound popularity. The farm stand,

hole in the wall.

once relegated to a booth at the church fair,

YOUR » FIND NEXT MEAL

has become a happening place to buy a bag

Those Pumpkins Can Really Party

of purple carrots and a bunch of lemon

frenchlaundry.com

Large-scale food and wine festivals fea-

thyme for the marinade, listen to live

manresarestaurant.com

turing celebrity chefs dot the California

music, maybe take home an herb-roasted

chezpanisse.com

map. Attendees at the glitzy Los Angeles

chicken fresh off the spit. From San Diego,

babysbadassburgers.com

Food & Wine Festival, held in August,

with at least 20 year-round markets, to

themelt.com

could participate in cooking demonstra-

Placerville in the Sierra foothills to Chico

itstopscoffeeshop.com

tions with Food Network star Giada De

in Northern California, the Golden State’s

redhutcafe.com

Laurentiis or share a four-course dinner

agricultural scene is sexy and it knows it.

under the stars with none other than California cuisine godfather Wolfgang Puck.

Despite all this, alfalfa sprouts and avocados haven’t been bumped from the

natsearlybite.com eggheadsrestaurant.com lafw.com gilroygarlicfestival.com

Lest the garlic, eggplant, raisins and

sandwich. On the contrary—arugula, apple

asparagus feel slighted, they and all their

wood smoked bacon and heirloom toma-

produce friends have local celebrations

toes have climbed aboard with them.

solvangbakery.com

too. The Gilroy Garlic Festival has been

Considering

cafarmersmarkets.com

serving up vampire repellents such as

variety of meat and produce, it’s easy to see

garlic ice cream with cantaloupe for 35

how people who love food, from newbie

Good Food News

years. A bean run, bean queen and chili

cooks to accomplished chefs like Alice

americanfarmtotable.com

cookoff headline Tracy’s Dry Bean Festival,

Waters, get their energy and inspiration.

foodtrucktalk.com

and the Half Moon Bay Pumpkin Festival

Call it “fusion” or “California cuisine” or

chowhound.com

in October has really come of age, with

“diner,” but the only easy definition for the

pumpkin microbrew and its own app.

Golden State’s food is “phenomenal.”

California’s

superlative

tracybeanfestival.com statebirdsf.com

seriouseats.com

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CA.WINE COUNTRY

BY MARCY GORDON

Welcome to Wineland!

NAPA VALLEY WINES Wines from Napa Valley became famous when a Chardonnay from Chateau Montelena won the Judgment of Paris in 1976. It was an event that rocked the wine world, and the quality of California wines has only grown since then. For more on this region, see San Francisco Bay Area, pages 72-91.

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Wine is so popular in California and there

ican Viticultural Areas (AVAs) determined by

are so many varieties here it’s a marvel that

the climate, soil and altitude that contribute

no enterprising visionary has built a

to unique characteristics in finished wine.

theme park devoted to it: Wineland!

California offers as many ways to expe-

California has been a center for wine

rience wine as varieties of grapes grown.

since Spanish missionaries brought the first

Whether it’s food, adventure, art or history,

vines to California in the late 1790s and set-

there’s a tour or tasting experience to pair

tlers from Europe during the Gold Rush of

with your interests. The classic on-site

the 1850s began developing the modern wine

winery tour is alive and well, but off-site

industry. Today, California wine is known

tasting rooms are booming, and are a great

worldwide and the state is the fourth largest

alternative to exploring a wine region

wine producing area in the world after Spain,

without driving from winery to winery.

France and Italy. Five main growing regions

These opportunities abound the length

divide the state with more than 100 Amer-

and breadth of the state.

JACOB ASHCRAFT/ASHCRAFT PHOTOGRAPHY. OPPOSITE: JARED ROPELATO/SHUTTERSTOCK; JUANCAT/SHUTTERSTOCK

Where there’s a variety to suit every taste

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA COAST Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, Livermore, Santa Cruz Mountains By far the most famous California wine region is in Northern California. Napa Valley is known around the world for its exceptional wines and draws more visitors than any other area. The quintessential wine country experience was perfected here, with more than 300 wineries vying for your taste buds along Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail. Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are the signature grapes grown in the valley, but other varieties have been making a strong showing in the last decade. While the majority of visitors head for the big-name wineries such as Robert Mondavi, Beringer

FALL COLOR DRAPES THE ROLLING hills of Sonoma Valley, left; grapes and autumn leaves in Temecula, above.

and Sterling, those in the know are heading for Coombsville, the newest official AVA in Napa Valley. Located just minutes from downtown Napa, Coombsvilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unusual cool climate results in sensational Cabernets from grower/producers such as Meteor, Sodaro, Caldwell and Farella. Most are open by appointment only, but well worth the effort to call and go. For a more pastoral venue, wind your way up highway 128 in Mendocino County to The Madrones, a one-stop wine-tasting, shopping and luxury lodging spot that showcases wines of the Anderson Valley from Drew, Bink, Knez and Signal Ridge. The Madrones is also home to Stone & Embers a casual trattoria featuring woodstove pizzas, house-made breads, vinegars and preserves.

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CA.WINE COUNTRY WINE TASTING in the Inland Empire, right; there’s no shortage of wineries in the Alexander Valley of Sonoma County, below.

Marimar Estate. Don’t miss local favorite, Hook and Ladder, just two blocks away on Main Street. One of the oldest regions, Livermore, is

CENTRAL COAST Monterey, Santa Lucia Highlands, Chalone, Carmel Valley, Paso Robles, Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande

just 30 miles east of San Francisco and best

Overlooking Monterey Bay, A Taste of Mon-

known for its Chardonnay production and

terey on Cannery Row is one part museum,

the well-established winery estates of

one part tasting room. Located in a former

Wente and Concannon.

sardine cannery, A Taste of Monterey presents 250 wines from the 80 local wineries

SIERRA FOOTHILLS El Dorado, Amador, Calaveras

in Monterey County’s seven AVAs, making

The mining towns of the Sierra foothills—

rooms in the region. Inland, and closer to

Placerville, Amador City and Sutter

the actual vineyards in the Salinas Valley,

In Sonoma County, Healdsburg reigns as

Creek—used to draw prospectors in search

there is another tasting center next to the

the king of the tasting rooms in California,

of gold. Now wine lovers come in search of

National Steinbeck Center in old-town

and the trend is toward mini food pairings

riches in liquid form, such as Grenache,

Salinas just blocks from Steinbeck’s child-

with the wines. In town, off the Healdsburg

Sangiovese and particularly Old-vine Zin-

hood home.

Square, Kendall-Jackson offers a full menu

fandel. The proximity to natural wonders

If you are a Pinot or Syrah fan, don’t miss

at Partake, and Ferrari-Carano pairs wine

from groves of giant sequoias to caves and

a side trip to the Santa Lucia Highlands, an

and Scharffen Berger chocolate. For a veri-

caverns makes this region the perfect stop

appellation with many noteworthy selec-

table movable feast of food, wine and

for the active oenophile.

tions from wineries such as Talbott, Mer

vineyard vistas, head to Jordan Winery, just

The main street of Murphys is lined

outside of town on Alexander Valley Road,

with Gold Rush-era buildings and more

Paso Robles is said to be the region with

for the three-hour Estate Tour and Tasting

than 20 tasting rooms equal parts rustic

the most potential, and wineries here

experience. Tiny Sebastopol, an area noted

and sophisticated, including Boeger,

range from large commercial producers to

for it’s apples, is gaining ground as a place

Sobon, Amador Cellars and Terre Rouge

small boutiques making limited quanti-

to taste wine too, with several tasting

with several more a short drive away.

ties. Peachy Canyon, Gray Wolf, J.Lohr and

Soleil and Hahn.

rooms in the new Barlow complex fea-

Looking for a slightly twisted experi-

Tablas Creek are some of the standouts

turing boutique wines from LaFollette,

ence? Twisted Oak pours hearty reds amid

along the wine trail. But the Pithy Little

Wind Gap, McPhail Family Wines, and

rubber chicken décor.

Wine Company, in downtown Paso Robles,

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ELENA RAY/SHUTTERSTOCK. TOP: JACOB ASHCRAFT/ASHCRAFT PHOTOGRAPHY.

it one of the most comprehensive tasting

has one of the most tantalizing tasting-

wineries are grouped along Rancho Cali-

California is known for innovation and

room offerings in the state. Along with

fornia and De Portola roads, including the

imagination, so it’s not too far fetched to

flights

popular Cougar Winery and Robert Ren-

imagine the state’s biggest attractions, Hol-

zoni that specialize in Italian varieties.

lywood and wine, collaborating to create a

Sangivose,

Viognier

and

Cabernet they pour soda flights—Root Beer, Orange Cream, Cola, Black Cherry

For an unusual tasting experience, Sun-

fantasy Wineland. But until that day, all

and Cream Soda—all hand crafted with the

rider tours offers a Jeep safari adventure

you need to experience the best of Cali-

same attention to detail as their wine. The

through the vines of Temecula including

fornia wine is a map and the interest. No E

$10 Soda Tasting Flight is suitable for vis-

sampling of more than 18 different wines.

ticket required.

itors 8 and up and includes a bag of gourmet popcorn and a bottle of root beer to take home.

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA & CENTRAL VALLEY Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills, Santa Ynez Valley, Los Olivos, Temecula, Lodi, Madera, Clarksburg The coastal region of Southern California includes the Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills and Santa Ynez Valley growing regions, with Santa Ynez Valley becoming the poster child for wine tourism since the 2004 film Sideways confirmed its status as a Pinot Noir hot spot (or cool spot, as Pinot grapes don’t take well to too much heat). Downtown Santa Barbara has a handful of tasting rooms that are within walking distance of each other, and an urban winery, Jaffurs Wine Cellars, producing Rhone varietals with grapes sourced from Santa Barbara county vineyards. Zinfandel grows well in the Central Valley, a major agricultural region that runs down the middle of the state from Sacramento to Bakersfield. Two favorites in Lodi are the Berghold Estate Winery and Michael-David Winery, best known for its 7 Deadly Zins blend.

» FIND A WINERY GUIDE TO CALIFORNIA WINE californiawineryadvisor.com WINERIES & VINEYARDS Northern California Coast robertmondavi.com beringer.com sterlingvineyards.com themadrones.com meteorvineyard.com farella.com sodarowines.com caldwellvineyard.com ferrari-carano.com lafollettewines.com marimarestate.com macphailwine.com windgapwines.com hookandladderwinery.com jordanwinery.com partakebykj.com Sierra Foothills boegerwinery.com sobonwine.com amadorcellars.com terrerougewines.com twistedoak.com Central Coast: Monterey atasteofmonterey.com

Still emerging as a wine destination, Southern California’s mostly hot and arid region is not as well developed as points north, but Temecula in particular is generating an ardent following for its wines and sheer determination to grow grapes in a

Paso Robles peachycanyon.com greywolfcellars.com jlohr.com tablascreek.com pithywine.com

Santa Lucia Highlands talbottvineyards.com mersoleilvineyard.com hahnestates.com Southern California & Central Valley: Temecula cougarvineyards.com robertrenzonivineyards.com Santa Barbara jaffurswine.com Lodi bergholdvineyards.com michaeldavidwinery.com TASTING ROOMS themadrones.com pithywine.com atasteofmonterey.com TOURS jordanwinery.com sunriderwinetours.com WINERY ASSOCIATIONS Coombsville Winery Members coombsvillenapa.org/Members.html Temecula Wineries temeculawines.org/wineries-vineyards Sierra Foothills eldoradowines.org/wineries.html Sonoma Wine Road Association wineroad.com

challenging location. The majority of

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CA.STATE & NATIONAL PARKS

BY BONNIE SMETTS

Places of Adventure and Tranquility

HIGH SIERRA landscape in Kings Canyon National Park.

ALPINE LAKES Lake Tahoe is the granddaddy of them all, but sparkling alpine lakes are scattered throughout California’s mountains, from the Sierra Nevada to the Cascades to the Trinity Alps and Marble Mountains. Many are easily accessible, such as Mammoth Lakes, whereas others can be attained only after long backcountry hikes. For more information on enjoying the mountains, see High Sierra, pages 142-146, Mammoth Lakes, 148-149, Lake Tahoe South Shore, 150-151, and Shasta Cascade, 158-160.

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Snap a picture of the world’s largest plant

when the waterfalls thunder to the valley

or listen to desert sand dunes sing. Camp

floor. Come in summer when the park is

where the cult classic Planet of the Apes was

abuzz with visitors to explore by tram,

filmed or paddle across Lake Tenaya at

bike or on foot. Choose a gentle half-hour

dawn. Whatever your passion, California’s

hike or reserve a spot for the all-day

279 state parks and 32 national parks,

climb to Half Dome. Junior Ranger Walks

seashores and monuments—whose mis-

are popular with kids. Backpackers can

sion is to protect the state’s natural and

enjoy the solitude of the park’s high

cultural treasures—are the gateway to expe-

country and expert rock climbers have

riences as varied as the state’s geography.

dozens of granite walls to scale. Don’t leave the park without stopping at Glacier Point

Yosemite & the Sierra Nevada

with its views of Half Dome and Yosemite

Yosemite National Park, with its glacier-

Valley or at the Mariposa Grove of giant

sculpted valley and granite peaks, has

sequoias to marvel at its 2,700-year-old

something for everyone. Come in spring

Grizzly Giant.

SEBASTIEN BUREL/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: LORCEL; FELIX LIPOV; GARY SAXE/SHUTTERSTOCK

California’s parks will soothe your soul

YOSEMITE FALLS in Yosemite National Park, left; Big Basin Redwoods State Park, below; pier at Sugar Pine Point State Park at Lake Tahoe, bottom.

To see a really big tree—the world’s largest by volume—head south to Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks and marvel at the weighty General Sherman. While still in the mountains, take a trip to Lake Tahoe, North America’s largest alpine lake. Along the lake’s west shore, D.L. Bliss, Emerald Bay and Sugar Pine Point state parks offer camping, hiking and white sand beaches. Farther north at Lassen Volcanic National Park, watch California take shape in the roaring fumaroles, thumping mud pots and boiling pools.

Giants in the Mist While the Sierras are home to the heftiest redwoods, the state’s fog-shrouded coastal range from Oregon to Big Sur boasts the loftiest—several are taller than the Statue

Farther north and closer to the coast, the

of Liberty. These rare trees, once logged to

Redwood National and State Parks is a col-

near extinction, are now protected within

lection of four parks with miles of

California’s redwood parks.

unspoiled coast and hiking trails. The

At Humboldt Redwoods State Park,

tallest recorded Coast Redwood hides here,

home to the largest continuous old growth

its location kept secret to protect it. How-

redwood forest on earth, drive the 31-mile

ever, you can visit the remote Tall Trees

Avenue of the Giants and make stops along

Grove if you have a day to spare and want

the way to stroll among the titans.

to nab one of the 50 daily permits. But all

Founders Grove with its majestic 346-foot

the parks provide easy access to magnifi-

specimen is always a favorite. Visit in

cent groves as well as picnic sites,

spring to see the pink redwood lilies and

campgrounds and trails for hikers, cyclists

purple calypso orchids in bloom.

and horses.

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CA.STATE & NATIONAL PARKS Burning Sands & Delicate Wildflowers Miles from the coast, California’s deserts are lands of extremes. Vast Death Valley National Park holds the record for the hottest temperature, driest climate and lowest elevation in North America. It is also famous for its explosion of wildflowers after winter rains. For a bird’s-eye panorama, stop at Dante’s View. On the valley floor, walk the Badwater Salt Flats or take an afternoon drive to Zabriskie Point to snap the garishly colored badlands. At Scotty’s Castle, take a living-history tour to sample the life of one of the valley’s most colorful settlers. Trips to Titus Canyon and the Racetrack take you deeper into the with proper vehicles and preparation. Furnace Creek Campground, one of nine in the park, with sites for RVs, groups and tents, makes for a central location for exploring the park. Because of favorable weather and temperatures, fall to spring is the park’s busiest time. The Mojave National Preserve is famous for its singing sand dunes and seven-million-year-old volcanic cinder cones. Joshua Tree National Park, a favorite with rock climbers, mountain bikers and birders, is home to the gangly tree that gives the park its name. While both have spring wildflower displays, Anza-Borrego Desert State Park is legendary. Its flowers are usually the first to burst into color—catching the park’s cactus bloom is the prize.

To the Beach BADWATER SPRINGS at Death Valley National Park, above; magenta flowers erupt in the spring on cacti in Mojave National Preserve, right.

A visit to California is incomplete without spending time on the beach, but not all of them are the iconic white sandy kind. You will find black sand at Sinkyone Wilderness State Park on the north coast. At the Mendocino Headlands State Park, bundle up and enjoy a beach walk with a view of the Victorian village.

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JASON PATRICK ROSS/SHUTTERSTOCK. TOP: MARTHA MARKS/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: KUNAL MEHTA/SHUTTERTOCK; KEN WOLTER/SHUTTERSTOCK

park’s unique landscape, but only for those

POINT REYES NATIONAL SEASHORE lighthouse, below; China Cove and rock formations at Point Lobos State Natural Reserve, right.

Closer to San Francisco, the sweeping arc of Point Reyes National Seashore is home to a dozen beaches, with drive-up Drakes Beach and hike-in Limantour as favorites. Make your way to park headlands

Rocks to Castles

presidents, publishing luminaries and

in early spring to view the gray whale

California is more than its geography.

Hollywood stars who gathered there.

migration. Edging the entrance to San

Living history programs bring the past to

Whatever kind of experience you seek,

Francisco Bay, the beaches and cliff trails

life in many parks. Indian Grinding Rock

from a city adventure to a high country

of the Golden Gate National Recreation

State Historic Park features a reconstructed

trek, California’s parks have something

Area are the gateways to urban adventures

village with a ceremonial roundhouse and

for everyone.

and historic sights such as Alcatraz Island.

presentations by descendants of the

Continuing down the coast to Santa Cruz

Miwoks. The 21 missions founded by the

and Monterey, surfing spots alternate with

Spanish along El Camino Real, or the King’s

quiet coves home to sea otters and seals. At

Highway, preserve the arrival of non-natives

Año Nuevo State Reserve, witness elephant

to California. Imagine mission life at La

seals in breeding season. In Carmel, whose

Purisima Mission State Historic Park, one of

beauty has been long favored by plein air

the best along the Historic Mission Trail.

artists, Point Lobos State Natural Reserve is

Old Town San Diego State Historic Park,

a must-visit for everyone. Big Sur’s Julia

with its restored plaza and adobes, captures

Pfeiffer Burns State Park offers stunning

the period when San Diego grew from a

views of the rugged coast from its cliff-side

Mexican pueblo into an American town.

trails. Access to Pfeiffer Beach, a day beach,

And then there’s gold fever. Pan for gold at

is just south of the Big Sur Ranger Station.

Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park

At mid-coast, rocky cliffs finally give

where the mineral was first discovered.

way to warm water and California’s famous

Imagine a miner’s life at Bodie State Historic

endless flat beaches. Movie buffs can camp

Park, an intact ghost town from the era.

at Malibu Creek State Park where M*A*S*H

No place reflects California’s big

and Planet of the Apes were filmed. And

dreamers better than the Hearst San

then there’s Huntington Beach, aka Surf

Simeon State Historical Monument, a

City USA. Huntington State Beach’s soft

testament to publisher William Randolph

sand, safe swimming and good surfing

Hearst and architect Julia Morgan. Tour

make it the California classic.

the 115-room castle and imagine the

» FIND YOUR PARK Individual State Parks parks.ca.gov National Parks nps.gov/state/CA Campsites & Lodging Reservations reserveamerica.com recreation.gov Lighthouses (many open to the public, some offering accommodations) nps.gov/history/maritime/paciflt.html Wildflower Updates at Anza-Borrego Desert State Park Wildflower Hotline 760-767-4684 Or check the park’s website at parks.ca.gov.

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CA.GOLF

BY ROBERT KAUFMAN

California’s 10 Best Public Golf Courses

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA GOLF CordeValle Golf Club, above, stakes its claim to the top tier of Northern California golf courses along with Pebble Beach, Spyglass, Pasatiempo and Bayonet, but there are other excellent places to play, including Half Moon Bay Golf Links, San Francisco’s Harding Park and Presidio, San Ramon’s Bridges, Livermore’s Course at Wente Vineyards, Napa Valley’s Silverado and Sonoma’s Sea Ranch. For more information on these areas, see pages 72-91.

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Do you prefer a uniform field for every

Robert Trent Jones, Sr. & Jr., Arnold Palmer

sport? Then go compete on a baseball dia-

and Tom Fazio.

mond, a football field, a hockey arena, or a

California is now home to 920 golf

basketball or tennis court. Better yet, take up

courses (according to the National Golf

bowling. These games provide a variety of

Foundation, December 2012) consisting of

challenges but their venues are identical

iconic and hidden gems. Of this total, 636

inside the lines. Not golf. This is a sport that

are open for public play and represent a

thrives on an assortment of landscapes to

broad range of diversity, value and quality.

test competitors and there is nowhere on the

The good news is there are plenty of

planet with as wide a variety of geographic

options to choose from. The bad news is

settings, combined with year-round climate

there are too many choices!

conducive for playing golf, as California.

To further debate over which are the

Since the first golf course in the state

best public golf venues, the following is a

was established in Vallejo at Mare Island GC

selection of ten California dreamin’

(1892), California has been a heavenly

courses (from south to north) every golfer

canvas for a who’s-who of course architects

should experience. Half the list represents

to have stamped their mark, from old-

courses where the pros play, and with the

school designers like Alister MacKenzie,

Pacific Ocean as one the state’s greatest

A.W. Tillinghast and Willie Watson to

geographic assets, it’s not surprising to

modern-day shapers like Jack Nicklaus,

find half the list hugging the coast.

ROBERT KAUFMAN. OPPOSITE TOP: SEBASTIEN BUREL/SHUTTERSTOCK

Dramatic landscapes and top architects create magnificent places to swing away

TORREY PINES GOLF COURSE in La Jolla right; Pebble Beach Golf Links, below; CordeValle Golf Club, opposite.

Torrey Pines GC—South Edging the Pacific Ocean in La Jolla (15 miles north of San Diego), a region with arguably the best climate in California, this cliffhanger venue with deep ravines played host to the playoff between Tiger Woods and Rocco Mediate at the 2008 U.S. Open and is an annual stop on the PGA Tour for the Farmers Insurance Open. Designed by William Bell, it underwent a major renovation by Rees Jones in 2001, including a lengthening to 7,700 yards.

Pelican Hill GC—Ocean South “Re-perfected” in 2007 by the original designer, Tom Fazio, after it first opened along the Newport Coast in 1991, the Ocean South at Pelican Hill GC solidified its claim

La Quinta—Mountain

Pebble Beach GL

as one of the most scenic rounds of golf on

The Mountain Course (1981) has long been

Located along the storied Monterey Penin-

the West Coast. Several holes are literally

considered one of the desert’s leading

sula, there are few golf thrills like teeing-up

steps from the beach while the majority of

courses. Famed for its unique Pete Dye

for the first time on Pebble Beach

all 18 permit panoramic views of the

design, playability and stunning visuals,

Golf Links, ranked No. 1 on Golf Digest’s

Pacific. It is a strong compliment to Fazio’s

this ultra-challenging 6,732-yard course

“America’s 100 Greatest Public Golf

Ocean North to provide 36 holes of unfor-

features pot bunkers, rock formations and

Courses” (2013/14). At the Jack Neville/Dou-

gettable golf at Pelican Hill.

well-bunkered greens. From the top of the

glas Grant design (1919), golfers can feel the

elevated tee box of the signature 16 hole,

presence of the game’s biggest legends that

PGA West—TPC Stadium

golfers are treated to a majestic panoramic

have competed in the annual AT&T Pebble

Since opening in 1986, the TPC Stadium

view of the course, named one of GOLF

Beach National Pro-Am and five U.S. Open

Course has been rated one of the “Top 100

Magazine’s “Top 100 You Can Play.”

Championships. Jack Nicklaus said, “If I

Courses in the World” by GOLF Magazine.

only had one more round to play, I would

This 7,300-yard challenge, designed by Pete

Rustic Canyon GC

Dye, hosts PGA Tour “Q-School” Finals

Soon after it appeared on the secluded

every other year with players having to

landscape in 2002, near the Los Angeles

navigate cavernous bunkers, the island

and Ventura County border, Rustic Canyon

green at hole #17, known as Alcatraz, as

garnered instant acclaim for its minimalist

well as the menacing water-lined 18 .

design by Gil Hanse. Named the No. 1 “Best

Named “Stadium” thanks to Dye’s ingen-

Value in the U.S.A.” by GOLF Magazine in

ious plan to sculpt spectator seating into

2010, Rustic Canyon’s 7,028 yards are an

the natural terrain, one of the most mem-

exercise in restraint with flat, wide-open

orable events here includes Lee Trevino’s

fairways fading into the native surround-

hole-in-one on Alcatraz that won him a

ings, free-form greens and bunkers

carry-over Skin worth $175,000 in the 1987

sculpted from the natural landscape to pre-

“Skins Game.”

serve the native barrancas.

choose to play it at Pebble Beach.”

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CA.GOLF

SPYGLASS HILL Golf Course, right. Bayonet Golf Course, below.

lined character and was visually enhanced by the strategic placement of Bates’ classic bunkering with snow-white sand. Also on site is the Black Horse GC. Pasatiempo GC Within an hour’s drive north from Alister MacKenzie’s famed Cypress Point GC on

Spyglass Hill GC

the Monterey Peninsula, the world-

Taking its theme from Robert Louis

renowned architect designed what he

Stevenson’s classic novel, Treasure Island,

considered to be his favorite layout,

Spyglass has hole names such as “Black

Pasatiempo GC. It’s also where he made his

Dog” and “Billy Bones,” hints for the unwary

American home that still borders the sixth

Torrey Pines GC—South torreypinesgolfcourse.com

at this demanding 6,960-yard layout. The

fairway.

PGA Tour lists holes 6, 8 and 16 at the Robert

America’s Top 100, this 6,500-yard master-

Pelican Hill GC—Ocean South pelicanhill.com

Trent Jones, Sr.-designed Spyglass Hill GC

piece underwent a complete restoration

(1966) among the toughest on the Tour. Fea-

(2007) by one of today’s top architects, Tom

turing two distinctly different kinds of

Doak, after a trove of slides were uncov-

terrain that influence the way the holes look

ered in the early 1990s detailing the

and play, the first five holes roll through

original design.

PGA West—TPC Stadium pgawest.com La Quinta—Mountain laquintaresort.com Rustic Canyon GC rusticcanyongolfcourse.com Pebble Beach GL pebblebeach.com

Included

annually

among

sandy seaside dunes while the following 13 holes cut through majestic pines with ele-

CordeValle GC

vated greens and strategically placed

On 260 acres of gently rolling terrain in the

bunkers and lakes to grab errant shots.

countryside of San Martin, 30 minutes south of San Jose, Robert Trent Jones, Jr.

Bayonet GC

took advantage of the natural elevation

Spyglass Hill GC pebblebeach.com

Overlooking the Monterey Peninsula, Bay-

changes formed by peaks and canyons (150

onet GC ushered in an exciting new era in

feet throughout the 18 holes), and

Bayonet GC bayonetbackhorse.com

December 2008 after the renovation of all

enhanced by sycamore and California oak

18 holes by course designer Gene Bates.

trees. The 7,169-yard CordeValle GC offers

Pasatiempo GC pasatiempo.com

Long famous for its “Combat Corner”

an impressive variety of play for amateur

(course is located at Fort Ord, a former mil-

golfers and PGA Tour players who have

CordeValle GC cordevallegolf.com

itary base), the 7,104-yard course kept

competed here at the annual Frys.com

intact the integrity of the challenging series

Open. The facility has also been selected to

of dogleg left holes, retained its classic tree-

host the 2016 U.S. Women’s Open.

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ROBERT KAUFMAN. OPPOSITE: NITO/SHUTTERSTOCK

FIND YOUR GOLF

CA.SPORTS & OUTDOORS: SUMMER

BY BILL FINK

Get Outside and Play Pristine beaches, majestic landscapes and glorious weather create an unbeatable summer playground

SKATEBOARDING A long time ago it was called sidewalk surfing, but no matter what it’s called, no one can question the popularity of skateboarding among California’s youths. Skateparks, like this one in Venice Beach, above, have been built in communities all over the state to give kids a place to show their stuff. Still, it’s just as common to see teens making their way around town by skateboard, expertly avoiding obstacles.

The California ideal of sun, surf, and sand

Strand and sailors out at sea. Drive the hills

has been popularized in decades of film

near San Francisco on a sunny day, and in

and TV shows, from Beach Blanket Bingo to

a matter of minutes you’ll pass pelotons of

Baywatch. But visitors to California in the

road bikers, and hikers, horseback riders

summer can discover even more of the

and mountain bikers launching onto

state’s natural beauty heading inland to

trailheads. In the shadow of the Golden

majestic national parks.

Gate Bridge, the wind powers kite surfers and wind surfers into acrobatics, while

Sports

mellow joggers enjoy the scenery along

Take a walk to the pier in Manhattan Beach

shoreline paths with their dogs. North and

in Southern California on any given day

south, young and old, Californians love

and you’ll see surfers whipping around the

their sports, and the state provides

waves, volleyball players diving in the

limitless opportunities to ply your favorite

sand, bikers and rollerbladers cruising the

or try a new one.

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CA.SPORTS & OUTDOORS: SUMMER CYCLING IS A GREAT WAY to explore the eastern Sierra Nevada, left; teeing off at The Course at Wente Vineyards, middle; a surfer catches a wave at Manhattan Beach, bottom.

On Land California has some of the world’s best golf, including the legendary seaside Pebble Beach Golf Links, home of Bill Murray’s favorite annual event, the AT&T National Pro-Am tournament. Or try any one of the hundreds of public and private aren’t into the clubs, grab a disc and try some frisbee golf at one of the dozens of California courses. Mountain and road biking are great ways to get a workout while experiencing the state’s landscape, whether it be from tricky single-track downhill trails around Lake Tahoe, flatter cross-country trips or perhaps a rental in San Francisco’s new Bike Share program. Skateboarding is practically the state sport, with skateparks seen everywhere from the sport’s birthplace at Venice Beach to the smallest inland town. For a different sort of ride, make like native son John Wayne and saddle up for some horseback riding on trails near cities, around dude ranches or on multi-day wilderness journeys. If desert sands don’t appeal to you, try those on the beaches of Southern California which are lined with volleyball nets for pickup games and professional

tournaments.

California

sunshine is good for year-round tennis, be it on public courts or at a posh resort.

In Water California has more than 840 miles of shoreline facing the Pacific Ocean, a prime launching spot for every manner of water sport, including surfing, sailing, SCUBA and sea kayaking. California has fully embraced the newly popular stand-

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ROBCOCQUYT/SHUTTERSTOCK; COURTESY OF VISIT TRI-VALLEY; DIGITAL MEDIA PRO/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: JTBASKINPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK; CVALLE/SHUTTERSTOCK

clubs scattered across the state. If you

HIKER IN A DESERT CANYON, left; sailboats off the coast of Long Beach, below.

mountain lions, rattlesnakes and coyotes put the “wild” in California wildlife, but careful visitors should have no problem with them. Abundant migratory and native birdlife makes California a prime birding destination, while at sea, whale watching up-paddleboarding, with many rental

the sheer cliffs of Yosemite to the searing

is a perennial tourist favorite. Even

shops bordering lakes and the ocean.

deserts of Death Valley and the scenic

without an organized tour, visitors can

Catalina Island and the kelp forests of

shorelines

Islands,

walk to view sea lions on San Francisco

Monterey Bay are popular diving spots,

California offers a lifetime of outdoor

and Santa Cruz piers, and observe sea

but be sure to wear a wetsuit in the chilly

opportunities for the visitor. Exploration

otters playing in the surf at Monterey.

Pacific waters. Surf breaks range from 50-

options range from multi-day backpacking

foot monster waves in Half Moon Bay to

trips for the hardy in remote areas such as

more gentle rollers around Manhattan

Lake Tahoe’s Desolation Wilderness to

Beach. Marinas dot the coast from north

relaxed hour-long walking tours through

to south, where experienced sailors can

the gentle winding paths of Muir Woods,

rent power yachts for deep-sea fishing or

easily accessible from nearby San Francisco.

sailboats to ride the winds.

the

Channel

A trip to the bubbling volcanic pools at

Moving inland, gentle streams and

Lassen Volcanic National Park or to the Dr.

scattered lakes provide fertile sport-

Seuss-like trees of Joshua Tree can make

fishing grounds, while melting mountain

visitors feel they’re on another planet,

snow can create raging rapids for kayaking

while sunset in the Yosemite Valley with

and rafting enthusiasts, but those looking

views of towering waterfalls can make you

for a gentle river float on an inner tube

feel like you’re in heaven.

with a beer cooler can still find their spots.

California’s many mountains mean

Boating is popular with waterskiers and

climbing is a popular activity, be it a hike

wakeboarders across the Sacramento

up 14,505 foot (4,421 m) Mount Whitney

Delta and at a huge number of marinas on

(the highest point in the continental U.S.)

lakes and reservoirs throughout the state.

or technical rock climbing routes from the easy to the extreme in legendary areas

The Great Outdoors

such as Yosemite, Joshua Tree and

California boasts eight national parks, 279

Pinnacles national parks.

state parks and a plethora of wilderness

California’s state flag features a bear,

areas, nature preserves and other outdoor

and you may see some among the wildlife

playgrounds. With landscapes ranging from

during your outdoor journeys. Black bears,

» FIND YOUR FUN Biking bikecal.com labikepaths.com sfbike.org Boating dbw.ca.gov Climbing rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America /United_States/California rockclimbing.org Frisbee Golf pdga.com Horseback Riding horseandtravel.com /states/california Surfing surfline.com/travel surfingcalifornia.com

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CA.SPORTS & OUTDOORS: WINTER

BY BILL FINK

Wonderland in Winter Southern California draws sun-seekers, but others head to the hills for world-class skiing, snowboarding and winter adventure

Diego or Los Angeles. But for those seeking winter sports, there may be no better place on earth than the mountains surrounding Lake Tahoe. The area hosted the 1960 Winter Olympics at Squaw Valley and continues to be home base for many U.S. Winter Olympians who bang moguls, rip the half-pipes and bomb down downhill runs at more than a dozen area ski resorts.

PLAYING IN SNOW Snow play isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t usually foremost in peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s minds when they think of California, but the state has some of the best skiing in the West, with the area around Lake Tahoe offering more options than anywhere in North America. For more information on four-season activities, see High Sierra, pages 142-151, and Shasta Cascade, pages 158-160.

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Southern California has long been known

For the non-extreme, plenty of beginner

as a year-round winter playground, with

runs, group lessons and smaller hills offer

sports and outdoor activities centered in

a safe introduction to the sport.

San Diego and Los Angeles. But the

Tahoe resorts including Squaw Valley,

mountains of Lake Tahoe, Mammoth Lakes

Northstar and Heavenly feature ice skating

and Yosemite beckon winter visitors

rinks and innertube runs for those looking

who want to embrace snow-based sports

for something less extreme, with toasted

and recreation.

marshmallows by a fire for dessert. Crosscountry skiing and snowshoeing courses

Sports

dot the Tahoe area, offering a brisk aerobic

In winter, Southern California is still an

workout amidst pine forests and sweeping

oasis for outdoor sports and adventure,

mountain scenery. South of Tahoe, Mam-

from golfing to tennis, hiking and

moth Mountain boasts a world-class ski

horseback riding, whether in the still-

resort, while Big Bear offers skiing within

baking desert around Palm Springs or the

a reasonable commute from Los Angeles,

perpetually pleasant vacationland of San

enabling the highly motivated to surf

GEORGE LAMSON/SHUTTERSTOCK; DON LANDWEHRLE/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: BIKERIDERLONDON/SHUTTERSTOCK.; GALINA BARSKAYA/SHUTTERSTOCK

CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING near Donner Summit in the Sierra Nevada, left; snowboarding off-piste near Donner Pass, below.

WINTER HIKING is popular in the desert, below; a skier gets some air at Lake Tahoe, right.

and ski in a single day. Outside of the ski resorts, snowmobiling provides highoctane motor sport fun, while dogsledding is a way to enjoy a different sort of ride with some furry friends. For the adventurous, remote backcountry skiing, the increasingly popular “sidecountry” Alpine Touring connected to the ski resorts, ice climbing and hut-to-hut hiking in the Sierra Nevada mountains can feed one’s hunger for adrenaline.

The Great Outdoors Step away from organized resort sports and there’s still a wealth of winter outdoor activities in California. The bears may be hibernating but that doesn’t mean you have to as well. Avoiding the hot summer

snowshoe tours. Hot springs around

months

enjoy

Mammoth Lakes provide some toasty

temperate winter hiking and camping

outdoor relaxation with a view of

opportunities in desert parks such as

snowcapped mountains. Or, perhaps

Death Valley, Joshua Tree and around Palm

bundle up and climb a mountain for some

Springs (but be forewarned that the nights

prime star-gazing opportunities in the

can still get frigid). Prior to snowfall, the

crisp mountain air, then add a few more

Sierra Nevada mountain forests are ablaze

layers and try some ice fishing on a high

with colorful fall foliage, making a drive

alpine lake.

means

visitors

can

through the hills a prime “shoulder season” activity.

YOUR » FIND SPORT Skiing skilaketahoe.com mammothmountain.com bearmountain.com xcski.org

Winter also is the time when visitors can spot many animals migrating south to

Wintertime means an escape from the

follow the sun. From massive gray whales

summer crowds in famed Yosemite

to miniature monarch butterflies, flocks of

National Park. Visit the near-empty

birds in the central wetlands and pods of

wilderness to enjoy a quiet blanket of

seals come to mate on the shores of the

snow covering towering cliffs, the sun

Pacific, the world’s wildlife also seems to

glistening off frozen waterfalls and the

think that California’s outdoors is a great

muffled clomping sound of guided

place to visit in winter.

Hiking/Camping yosemitepark.com nps.gov/state/ca parks.ca.gov Wildlife whalewatching.com/california birding.com/wheretobird/california.asp dfg.ca.gov/wildlife

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CA.MOVIES

BY JACQUELINE YAU

The Stuff of Dreams Many of your favorite films were made in California, at a location near you

It’s the movies that have really been running things in America ever since they were invented. They show you what to do, how to do it, when to do it, how to feel about it, and how to look how you feel about it.

ALCATRAZ ISLAND Alcatraz has been present in the popular culture since its time serving as a maximum-security federal prison from 1934 to 1963. It’s periodically the subject of movies, with credits that include The Rock (1996), Escape from Alcatraz (1979), Murder in the First (1995), Birdman of Alcatraz (1962) and other films and TV shows. For more on San Francisco, where Alcatraz is located, see pages 72-76.

For more than a century, filmmakers

quotes as, “Just one word … plastics,” from

have been inspired by California’s polyglot

The

culture, striking landscapes and laid-back

Schwarzenegger’s line in The Terminator

lifestyle to create a breathless diversity of

(1984), “I’ll be back.” There’s a symbiotic

movies representing the human condi-

relationship between the film industry and

tion. A Paramount Studio location map

the state, and many cities have benefited

from 1927 shows what locations in Cali-

economically from films shot in and

fornia could stand in for places across the

around them.

Graduate

(1967)

and

Arnold

country and around the world—from

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Wyoming cattle country to the Nile River

Film Locations by the Hundreds

to the Swiss Alps to Sherwood Forest in

So many movies have been filmed in Cali-

England. These movie-making master illu-

fornia that cottage industries have cropped

sionists have shaped perceptions of the

up guiding tourists to film locations. There

Golden State and influenced attitudes and

are hundreds of places to visit in Holly-

dress globally through such memorable

wood and greater LA, the cradle of the

DOPTIS/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE:HELGA ESTEB/SHUTTERSTOCK; FILIPE MATOS FRAZAO/SHUTTERSTOCK

—Andy Warhol

HOLLYWOOD WALK OF FAME, right; the heels of Hilary Swank and Mariska Hargitay at Hargitay’s Hollywood Walk of Fame star ceremony, November 8, 2013, below.

movie business. One of the better-kept

devise your own itinerary up and down the

secrets is Greystone Mansion and Park in

state and visit the locations of your

Beverly Hills. This estate is part of a public

favorite movies shot in California.

park that sits on 16 acres of land and is the

Perhaps you’re nostalgic for classic films

setting for dozens of movies, including

such as American Graffiti (1973), shot in

Star Trek Into the Darkness (2013), The Social

downtown Petaluma in Sonoma County,

Network (2010), the Spiderman series

and East of Eden (1955), filmed in Mendo-

(2002-2007) and X-Men (2000).

cino, or Some Like It Hot (1959) filmed at the

If you are hungry, snack on an apple

Hotel del Coronado in San Diego. Or you

fritter at Randy’s Donuts, the oft-filmed

want to retrace Tippi Hedren’s steps in

and iconic 24-hour drive-thru bakery, seen

Alfred Hitchcock’s iconic suspense film, The

in Iron Man 2 (2010) as protagonist Tony

Birds, shot in Bodega Bay and other parts of

Stark munches on the sweets reclining

Sonoma County and in San Francisco.

inside the giant donut sign. Take a tour of

Beyond these coastal film locations, the

the Walt Disney Concert Hall featured in

Sacramento River Delta has been used

The Soloist (2009) in downtown Los

many times as a movie location, especially

Angeles. Or join Dearly Departed Tours for

as a stand-in for the Mississippi Delta. In

their special Halloween Horror Film Loca-

the late 1950s, at least seven major movies

tion Tour around Hollywood and Pasadena.

were filmed in the Stockton area, such as

LA isn’t the only place movies are shot.

God’s Little Acre, The Big Country (with Gre-

San Francisco has been the backdrop for

gory Peck and Charlton Heston), Miss

countless films. San Francisco Movie

Brooks, Porgy and Bess (Sammy Davis, Jr.

Tours’ three-hour bus excursion visits

and Pearl Bailey), Cool Hand Luke (1967)

locations where 70 movie scenes from

starring Paul Newman and Raiders of the

more than 55 movies were filmed (e.g., Ver-

Lost Ark (1981).

tigo, Mrs. Doubtfire, Basic Instinct, The Rock, Contagion, The Pursuit of Happyness).

Studio Tours, TV Audiences & Extras

Down the coast a bit, the Monterey Movie

Other ways to get a glimpse of the enter-

Tours wind through Monterey, Pacific

tainment business are to take a studio

Grove and Carmel, spotlighting locations

tour, attend a live taping of a TV show or

of other films; still farther south, a more

active tour put together by the Santa Bar-

Although there are movie studios in

bara Bicycling Coalition cycles along two

other parts of California, including Pixar

Sideways (2004) routes. You can also

Animation Studios and Lucasfilm in the San

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

CA.MOVIES TO » GO THE MOVIES

Francisco Bay Area, most are located in and around Los Angeles. Those that offer behind-the-scenes studio tours include Warner Bros. (peek into the costume and prop room for the Harry Potter movies), Universal, Sony Pictures (formerly the historic MGM studios famous for Gone with the Wind and The Wizard of Oz) and Paramount studios (the one remaining studio that is still located in Hollywood). Many movies that are shot on location outside LA also often have scenes shot on a studio soundstage.

Watch a Movie

Check for tickets before going on a

While in LA, consider doing what Angelenos

studio tour as many require advance tick-

love to do: watch movies. During the

eting or reservations. Ask your guide if you

summer, enjoy a classic film under starlight

can take a peek into a current movie shoot

with the dead and the living at the Hollywood

and you may spot a celebrity walking by.

Forever Cemetery, going on its 13th season.

Game shows, talk shows and TV

Catch a movie where many directors

comedy shows often need a live audience.

screen their films and sometimes key off

Free studio audience tickets are handled

audience reactions to tweak a scene or two

through distributors such as Audiences

at the AMC/IMAX Century City 15 Theatres

Unlimited and Audience Associates.

at Westfield Century City shopping center.

Becoming a film extra isn’t as easy as it

Pay homage to the pioneers of the motion

might seem. There are a number of serv-

picture era by watching a silent film on the

ices that do casting calls for extras such as

first Wednesday of the month at The Silent

Central Casting in Los Angeles or Casting

Movie Theatre, a recently restored, art deco

Networks in San Francisco. Often you are

cultural landmark built in 1942.

required to sign up and provide a head-

When you next watch a movie filmed in

shot. If you do get cast as an extra, it

the state, remember that not only are you

requires patience as you can stand around

experiencing the drama of life, you’re also

all day with nothing to do.

getting a taste of California.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

STUDIO TOURS Paramount paramountstudiotour.com Sony sonypicturesstudiostours.com Universal universalstudioshollywood.com Warner Bros. vipstudiotour.warnerbros.com JOIN A STUDIO AUDIENCE Audience Associates tvtix.com Audiences Unlimited tvtickets.com BECOME AN EXTRA Central Casting centralcasting.com/LA/actors Casting Networks home.sfcasting.com/casting-calls Be in a Movie beinamovie.com FILM BUFF Hollywood Forever Cemetery summer movie screenings cinespia.org Pacific Film Archive bampfa.berkeley.edu The Silent Movie Theatre cinefamily.org/films/ the-silent-treatment Westfield Century City westfield.com/centurycity/movies

STACIESTAUFFSMITH PHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK; CHRISTIAN DE ARAUJO/SHUTTERSTOCK

MOVIE THEATER exterior tower, above; Kodak Theatre is home of the world famous Academy Awards, left.

MOVIE LOCATIONS Beverly Hills greystonemansion.org Inglewood randys-donuts.com Los Angeles hollywoodmovietours.com dearlydepartedtours.com ultimatehollywoodtours.com Monterey montereymovietours.com San Francisco sanfranciscomovietours.com Santa Barbara sbbike.org/region/rides/rides Sonoma County sonoma-county.org/film Stockton riverboatdaves.com/docs/cmovies.html Regional Film Offices film.ca.gov Statewide movie-locations.com

4 famous attractions

Unlimited cable car rides

7-Day, Unlimited-use Cable Car & Muni Transportation Passport

3-Day Park Hopper速 to Disneyland速 Park and Disney California Adventure速 Park

California Academy of Sciences

Blue & Gold Fleet Bay Cruise Adventure

Universal Studios HollywoodSM Your choice of Aquarium of the Bay OR Monterey Bay Aquarium

SeaWorld速 San Diego

- Good for 14 days - Skip most ticket lines

Your choice of Exploratorium OR de Young Museum + Legion of Honor

Buy at these attractions

- Good for 9 days Connect for current pricing citypass.com or (888) 330-5008

CA.THEME PARKS

BY MATT VILLANO

Excitement Overload

DISNEY’S CALIFORNIA ADVENTURE, Anaheim, above; castle at Disneyland, top.

AMUSEMENT PARKS Europeans started the concept of amusement parks centuries ago with fairs and pleasure gardens created for people’s recreation. The world’s oldest amusement park is Bakken, just north of Copenhagen, Denmark, which opened in 1583. The oldest theme park in the United States is Holiday World & Splashin’ Safari (called Santa Claus Land from its opening in 1946 until 1984) in Santa Claus, Indiana. California’s theme parks date from 1950.

Diversions are as plentiful as sunshine in

Lake Merritt in Oakland. The place opened

California. One of the most popular out-

in 1950 (original admission started at 9

lets: original theme parks.

cents), making it the first official theme

These attractions are meccas to amuse-

park in California, as well. According to

ment, each focusing rides and exhibits

some, it was one of Walt Disney’s inspira-

around different concepts such as fairies,

tions for the eponymous park he created

film, plastic blocks, sea life and an inim-

five years later.

itable mouse. Most of the parks are

Today, Fairyland includes small rides

situated in the southern part of the state

such as a Ferris wheel and carousels, and

(where the weather is generally warmer)

life-sized sets depicting scenes from time-

but the granddaddy of them all is up north.

less storybooks (Pinocchio’s castle and the

Each of the parks is worth a closer look.

Humpty Dumpty wall are two favorites). The theme park also is home to the Story-

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Fairyland

book Puppet Theater, which opened in 1956.

Believe it or not, the first theme park in the

A number of the country’s most famous

U.S. to cater to families with young kids

puppeteers got their start here, including a

was Children’s Fairyland, a blink-and-

teenager by the name of Frances Oznowicz.

you’ll-miss-it theme park on the shores of

You likely know him as Frank Oz.

KIRT EDBLOM/CREATIVE COMMONS. TOP: SHANE MORRIS/DEPOSITPHOTOS. OPPOSITE: DAVE PARKER/CREATIVE COMMONS; SHANE MORRIS/DEPOSITPHOTOS; TSIBAN/DEPOSITPHOTOS

There’s fun for all at California’s theme parks

Disneyland If the lovable (and life-sized) Mickey Mouse and friends don’t pique your interest and attention at California’s most famous theme park, surely the rides will. The park, which opened in 1955, features rides for all ages, including some of the most ballyhooed roller coasters anywhere in the state (one favorite is Space Mountain, which speeds along almost entirely in the dark). Overall, Disneyland is divided into eight themed areas, or “lands.” Some of these areas focus on actual history: Frontierland recreates the setting of the American frontier, while Main Street U.S.A. is patterned after a small Midwestern town (many believe Walt Disney got his inspiration from his own boy-

GILROY MUSHROOM swing in Gilroy Gardens, above; steamboat on the river at Disneyland, right; Shrek, below, is a prime attraction at Universal Studios, Hollywood, bottom.

hood town of Marceline, Missouri). The park opened with one hotel, but since the 1990s, it has grown exponentially, adding a new theme park (Disney’s California Adventure), a shopping district (Downtown Disney) and two additional hotels. The newest attraction, Cars Land, was inspired by the Cars movies, and opened in June 2012.

Universal Studios Hollywood This film-themed park got its formal start in the 1960s when walk-throughs of Universal Studios soundstages and sets were expanded to include peeks at actual production. Over the years, the studio added a tram to shuttle visitors through the back lot; today, this tram remains the best way to experience stunt demonstrations and staged events (such as an encounter with the shark from Jaws). The rest of the park is divided into two areas connected by escalator: the Upper and Lower lots. On the Upper Lot, The Simpsons Ride is popular among kids, while grown-ups love Universal’s House of Horrors, a year-round haunted house. Transformers: The Ride 3-D opened on the Lower Lot in the spring of 2012.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

CA.THEME PARKS THE INVERTIGO ROLLER coaster at California’s Great America, right.

Other Bay Area Parks The San Francisco Bay Area is home to two

friendly (the Carousel Columbia is the

Arguably the most famous resident of Sea-

other popular parks: California’s Great

world’s tallest double-decker carousel). In

World was Shamu, the name of the first

America (in Santa Clara) and Six Flags Dis-

the summer of 2013, the park opened the

black-and-white killer whale brought to

covery Kingdom (in Vallejo).

Gold Striker, the tallest and fastest wooden

the park in the 1960s.

Great America is all about rides. Diver-

roller-coaster in Northern California. The

In the nearby community of Carlsbad,

sions range from scream-inducing (Flight

coaster climbs over 108 feet and sends pas-

Legoland is dedicated to tiny plastic bricks

Deck, a roller coaster, has one 360-degree

sengers shooting at freeway speeds of up

(dubbed “Legos”), and boasts mind-bog-

loop and a zero-gravity roll) to family-

to 54 m.p.h.

gling Lego replicas of famous architectural icons (the Statue of Liberty and the Taj

eclectic. In addition to rides such as the

Mahal among them), as well as dioramas of

Medusa roller coaster, Boardwalk Bumper

seven areas of the U.S. The park incorpo-

Buggies and SkyScreamer (a swing ride),

rates rides and eateries, and is home to the

the park also is home to a number of ani-

Model Shop, the headquarters for the park’s

mals, including Tava the African elephant,

10 master builders (a window allows guests

Children’s Fairyland fairyland.org

Jocko the walrus and Shouka the killer

to witness these professionals at work).

Disneyland disneyland.disney.go.com

to add Tsunami Soaker, a family-friendly

CityPASS

water ride that incorporates hand-oper-

Once you’ve decided where to go, try City-

Universal Studios Hollywood universalstudioshollywood.com

ated water cannons.

PASS for saving some money: In Southern

California’s Great America cagreatamerica.com

San Diego Area Parks

off the price of admission to Disneyland,

San Diego and its surrounding suburbs

Disney California Adventure Park, Uni-

also comprise a great region for theme

versal Studios Hollywood and SeaWorld.

parks; two family favorites are SeaWorld

The Southern California CityPASS is a single-

and Legoland.

admission card that’s good over a 14-day

Six Flags Discovery Kingdom sixflags.com/discoverykingdom Legoland California california.legoland.com SeaWorld seaworldparks.com/en/ seaworld-sandiego CityPASS citypass.com

56 2 01 4

T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

whale. In 2014, park officials are expecting

California, it knocks as much as one third

Out near Mission Bay, in San Diego

period and allows you to skip most ticket

proper, SeaWorld is a sprawling homage to

lines. In San Francisco, CityPass offers sim-

nearly dozens of different species of

ilar discounts (for attractions such as the

marine life, including dolphins, sea lions,

California Academy of Sciences and the

walruses, polar bears and whales. It also is

Exploratorium), and is good for nine days.

one of only two places in the world where

Buy your CityPASS at any of the above

emperor penguins are kept in captivity.

attractions or online at citypass.com.

PARTHRB/WIKIMEDIA COMMONS

FIND YOUR FANTASY

The vibe at Discovery Kingdom is more

LOCATED JUST OUTSIDE OF SAN FRANCISCO IN THE SILICON VALLEY AT THE JUNCTION OF HIGHWAY 880 AND GREAT MALL PARKWAY. 408.956.2033

simon.com/travel

CA.SHOPPING

BY LENORE GREINER

A Shopper’s Paradise

SHOPPING MALLS South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Orange County, above, is a luxury shopping center with some 250 stores, making it the largest shopping mall on the West Coast. It’s also considered to have the highest concentration of design fashion retail in the U.S. Other major malls in Orange County include Fashion Island and the Irvine Spectrum Center. For more information on Orange County, see pages 110-117.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Even the most jaded shopper is astounded

perfect gift or memento inside iconic

by the creativity to be discovered within

malls, art galleries, bohemian shops and

every California foodie paradise, world-class

posh boutiques.

art district and splashy theme park. And the

California shopping is deliriously over

breadth of opportunities, from fine art

the top, set amid gorgeous ocean views,

to rare wine to theme park souvenirs, is

shady palms, inventive architecture and

without equal for even the savviest shopper.

celebrity hotspots.

Shopping safaris may entail arriving by water or joining a crush of crowds in the

SoCal Glamour

sun and fun of a famous theme park. Or

Malls sprawl in every direction in Los

you can explore a redwood-scented artist

Angeles, crowned by Rodeo Drive’s strato-

enclave, taste fresh cheese in an artisanal

spheric price tags. But you’ll find

food shop or savor original California land-

significant bargains in rings, necklaces and

scapes in an art gallery. Even the most

other pieces in the historic Jewelry District

sophisticated shopaholic will discover the

at prices up to 70 percent less than those in

SOUTH COAST PLAZA. OPPOSITE: ANDREW ZARIVNY/SHUTTERSTOCK; FILIPE MATOS FRAZAO/SHUTTERSTOCK

From kitsch to treasure, you can find it here

RODEO DRIVE, Beverly Hills, left and below; South Coast Plaza, opposite.

Beverly Hills. More than 3,000 jewelry

pond, overlooks the Pacific. Leading with

showrooms stand on 6th and 8th streets

Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom, this

between Olive Street and Broadway Avenue.

coastal center has more than 100 shops and

The Avenues: Art, Fashion and Design

36 restaurants. And Orange County’s pre-

District features a collection of high-end

mier mall, the massive South Coast Plaza in

fashion, interior design, furniture, decora-

Costa Mesa, runs a shopping shuttle three

tive arts and luxury brand stores on West

times a day, seven days a week, from Dis-

Hollywood’s

and

neyland and Anaheim area hotels. Visitors

Robertson and Beverly boulevards. Sunset

Melrose

Avenue,

from the world over come to experience

Boulevard’s world famous Amoeba Music

this unparalleled shopping destination for

Northern California Elegance

is the nation’s largest music emporium,

fashion, design and dining.

San Francisco’s massive malls and quirky

stocking an overwhelming selection of

Beyond the malls, Laguna Beach’s

boutiques showcase the city’s European

vinyl, CDs, tapes, posters and collectibles—

stylish art and craft galleries line streets

style. Dress well if joining the Prada-clad

all at rock-bottom prices.

sloping to a pretty beach. And, if heading

parade circling downtown Union Square to

In Santa Monica’s breezy, outdoor Third

to Palm Springs, stop at the 130-store

max out your platinum card in the upscale

Street Promenade, find the usual mall sus-

Desert Hills Premium Outlets in Cabazon

department stores. Stroll down nearby

pects, Anthropologie and Gap, as well as

for luxury designer brands.

Maiden Lane, once lined with Barbary

celebrity-soaked Fred Segal and a rare out-

Farther south, start your San Diego

Coast brothels, for more luxury.

shopping with a delightful morning at

Two blocks away, the Westfield San

Artsy shoppers should head to nearby

waterside Seaport Village. Then, hop on the

Francisco Centre, an architectural gem

Venice Beach’s hip art galleries, bookstores

Coronado Island ferry for a watery arrival

with gorgeous atriums under a stunning

and vintage shops. For bargains, drive north

at the Ferry Landing Marketplace for more

1908 dome, holds 200 stores, restaurants

to Camarillo’s giant 160-store Camarillo

sunny shopping.

and two food emporiums.

post of Zara, a trendy European chain.

San Diego’s own Rodeo Drive—Prospect

Don’t miss San Francisco’s great shop-

In Orange County, quintessential SoCal

Street in La Jolla—has art galleries, fash-

ping neighborhoods. Chinatown offers

shopping experiences await in huge open-

ionable boutiques and sweeping Pacific

more than kitschy tourist offerings. On

air malls, complete with valet parking.

views. In the city center, the 16½-block

Stockton Street, you can pick up Asian

Inspired by Spain’s Alhambra, the Irvine

Gaslamp Quarter features mall chains as

antiques, silk clothing bargains or rare tea.

Spectrum Center holds 130 stores, restau-

well as hip shops and art galleries, all occu-

Herbal pharmacies proffer Chinese medic-

rants and a 21-screen cinema with an

pying restored Victorian buildings.

inal remedies, ginseng, deer antlers or

Premium Outlets.

IMAX, anchored by Nordstrom and Macy’s.

You’ll find San Diego’s two regional

Fashion Island, with its casual resort set-

outlet malls on Carlsbad’s coast and south

ting featuring splashing fountains and a koi

at the U.S.-Mexico border.

herbs costing $100 per pound. Near Pacific Heights, Sacramento Street houses fancy consignment shops, luxury

201 4

T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

CA.SHOPPING

SHOPPERS AT SAN FRANCISCO’S Union Square bring home the goods, below.

YOUR » FIND FASHION Mendocino Shopping mendocino.com Napa Premium Outlets premiumoutlets.com/Napa St. Helena’s Main Street sthelena.com The Avenues: Art, Fashion and Design District avenueswh.com Coronado Ferry Landing coronadoferrylandingshops.com Seaport Village seaportvillage.com Irvine Spectrum Center shopirvinespectrumcenter.com Fashion Island shopfashionisland.com

boutiques. Hippie culture still lives in

Farther Afield: North Coast, Yosemite & Theme Parks

Haight Street shops selling incense, used

California’s wild North Coast inspires the

records and vintage San Francisco post-

superb handcrafted furniture and handi-

South Coast Plaza southcoastplaza.com

cards, which make great gifts.

crafts, pottery or jewelry, found in the ocean

North Beach and Jackson Square are famous

view lanes of artsy Mendocino.

for the legendary City Lights bookstore, Italian

Yosemite Valley’s majesty and history

cafés and antique stores. Japantown is known

inspire the gifts and mementos in the

for authentic Japanese goods, tansu chests,

Yosemite Museum’s Gift Shop, including

bonsai and antique kimonos. Finally, Hayes

authentic Native American-woven basketry.

Valley, a hipster haven, has trendy stores and

The Ansel Adams Gallery sells photographic

nary a chain store in sight.

reproductions or collectible prints.

Two hours south, in Carmel-by-the-

Shopping in theme parks goes beyond

Sea’s storybook village, shops display fine

sunscreen or souvenirs. In San Diego Zoo

French linen and European antiques. Big

Safari Park, The Bazaar stocks authentic

Sur’s rugged coast inspires the art found in

African artifacts and unusual jewelry.

small art galleries.

In Disneyland’s Downtown Disney Dis-

North, in the wine country, discover

trict, you’ll find surf gear and jewelry.

artisanal food shops, olive oil producers

Finally, the world’s largest selection of

and cheese makers on Sonoma’s main

LEGOs awaits in Carlsbad’s LEGOLAND

plaza. In Napa Valley wineries, shop for

California Resort.

fine vintages, explore Saint Helena’s his-

Shopping in the Golden State can be

toric main street or savor the seasonal

demanding yet very rewarding. A sophisti-

abundance in local farmers markets.

cated variety of eclectic treasures, from

Plus, three outlet malls—in Petaluma,

handmade pottery to Disney collectibles to

Napa and Vacaville—meet your need for

the latest in haute couture, await you within

brand names and mall-time.

its millions of square feet of retail space.

60 2 01 4

T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Carlsbad Premium Outlets premiumoutlets.com/carlsbad Westfield San Francisco Centre westfield.com/sanfrancisco Santa Monica Third Street Promenade 3rdstreetpromenade.com Carmel Village carmelcalifornia.com Sonoma’s Main Plaza sonomavalley.com/sonoma.html Los Angeles Jewelry District jewelry-los-angeles.com Amoeba Music amoeba.com Fred Segal fredsegal.com Downtown Disney District downtowndisneydistrict.com Yosemite National Park nps.gov/yose San Diego Gaslamp Quarter gaslamp.org

SAN FRANCISCO TRAVEL ASSOCIATION/JACK HOLLINGSWORTH

goods retailers and haute couture children’s

EXPERIENCE SHOPPING AT ITS FINEST!

Fashion Valley Mall, San Diego

Fashion Valley is a premier luxury outdoor shopping destination featuring over 200 ﬁne stores and restaurants such as Bloomingdale’s, jcpenney, Macy’s, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Burberry, C. Wonder, CH Carolina Herrera, Emporio Armani, Gucci, Henri Bendel, Hermés, HUGO BOSS Store, Jimmy Choo, Louis Vuitton, M Missoni, Prada, Royal Maui Jewelers, Ted Baker London, Tiffany any & Co., Tory o Burch and so m many more.

simon.com/travel

CA.SPAS & WELLNESS

BY LAVINIA SPALDING

The New R&R

NAPA VALLEY This celebrated region and neighboring Sonoma Valley are known primarily for their wine, but their appeal runs deeper than that. You can pamper yourself at luxury spas, dine at some of California’s (and the USA’s) best restaurants, shop at trendy boutiques or live a little rougher and explore wild state parks. For more on these areas, see San Francisco Bay Area, pages 72-82 or CA.Wine Country, pages 34-37.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

PRE-SPA MEDITATION in Sonoma.

In San Francisco’s vibrant Japantown dis-

For people around the world, the name

trict, buses and bikes whiz by, teens

“California” means escape and conjures

congregate and people text as fast as they

images of sunny beaches. But in today’s

walk. But inside the Kabuki Hot Springs,

demanding, perpetually wired world, a

the city vanishes. The only sounds in the

true vacation requires more than just a

dimly lit, Japanese-style communal baths

break from the office; it takes unplugging,

are the gentle splashing of water and occa-

purifying and restoring. Luckily, this is

sional strains of soothing music. In the

practically the state motto.

sauna, you can lie back and detoxify as you

California has been a resort destination

treat your eyes to chilled cucumber slices.

since the early 20th century, beckoning trav-

Then hit the steam room and exfoliate

elers with its year-round warm weather,

with lemon and sea salt. Follow with a

spectacular geography and mineral springs.

long, lazy soak in the hot tub, and if you’re

The 1950s brought yoga to the state, and the

brave, a cold plunge. When you’re finished,

1960s ushered in a wave of young hippies

start all over again. In fact, linger all day: it

passionate about all-natural food and

only costs $25.

intentional living. Today, California is the

JAY BERGESEN/CREATIVE COMMONS. OPPOSITE: ROBCOCQUYT/SHUTTERSTOCK; JUSTASC/SHUTTERSTOCK

Retreat and reinvigorate in California’s spa culture

FOUR SEASONS AVIARA RESORT AND SPA in Carlsbad, near San Diego, right; there’s nothing quite like a natural hot spring in winter in Mammoth Lakes, below.

nation’s vortex of personal health and self-

Wine Country Wellness

improvement, with spas and wellness

Californians are known to soak up a lot

centers almost as ubiquitous as scenic

more than wine in Napa Valley and

views. From five-star luxury resorts and

Sonoma. Residents have long enjoyed the

posh day spas to holistic healing programs

area’s natural mineral waters, and today’s

and “hippie hot springs,” the array of

spa menus overflow with treatments using

retreats will dazzle even the most experi-

grape seeds and skins, rich in antioxidants

enced serenity seeker. Here are some of our

and polyphenols. For first-class pam-

favorite spots for the new R&R: Retreat &

pering, lavish accommodations and a

Reinvigorate.

three-star Michelin dinner, visit the spa at Meadowood and order the Cabernet Crush,

Taking the Waters

a warm grape-seed body wrap, followed by

Home to numerous large geothermal areas,

a grape-seed oil massage or facial.

California has for centuries been a cele-

But it’s not all about grapes in wine

brated mineral springs destination, with

country. At Sonoma’s Osmosis, an innovative,

myriad spas statewide. Two hours inland from Los Angeles, Desert Hot Springs offers dozens of options, from the glamorous, sprawling Two Bunch Palms (featured in the movie The Player) to cozy boutique inns like Hacienda Hot Springs. The Central Coast also boasts famous baths, such as Esalen (equally known for its extensive list of alternative-education workshops) and Tassajara, the first Zen monastery built outside of Asia. But small, funky Calistoga in the north is the state’s oldest spa town, renowned not only for hot springs but also abundant volcanic ash used for therapeutic mud treatments. Eight thousand years ago, the Wappo Indians named the area “Ta La Ha Lu Si,” meaning “Beautiful Land” or “Oven Place,” and today spa facilities run the gamut from luxurious to laid-back. The oldest in Calistoga—and likely California— is Indian Springs, opened in 1862 by Sam Brannan, the first gold rush millionaire. The property features an Olympic-size mineral pool, steam rooms steeped with eucalyptus and a meditation pond. (Tip: if you arrive Sunday through Wednesday, and want to stay for a second night, save 25 percent off regular room rates for the second night, excluding holiday periods.)

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

CA.SPAS & WELLNESS

MAN PRACTICING HATHA YOGA posture titibasana, left; yoga pose named The Tree in a lake in Yosemite National Park, above.

FIND YOUR SPA

Kabuki Hot Springs kabukisprings.com

eco-conscious day spa, the specialty is a cedar

Health First

enzyme “bath.” Guests immerse themselves

When the sublime Golden Door opened in

to the chin in warm, finely ground cedar, rice

Escondido in 1958, it was a pioneer among

bran and plant enzymes. Heated by natural

American spas. It’s since become one of

fermentation, the treatment is said to aid

the world’s finest health resorts, regularly

digestion, improve circulation and relieve

hosting Hollywood’s biggest stars. Golden

muscle tension.

Door specializes in fitness, Eastern philosophy, relaxation and opulence. Guests

Om Sweet Om

pre-arrange completely customized four-

When yoga came to America, some of the

or seven-day packages with fitness options

Hacienda Hot Springs haciendahotsprings.com

first studios appeared in Hollywood and San

as diverse as Pilates, fencing, dance and

Francisco. The practice has since become a

archery. Best of all, each stay includes

Esalen esalen.org

way of life for countless Californians, and

facial treatments, body wraps and daily in-

hundreds of top-notch centers, from ritzy to

room massages.

Tassajara Hot Springs sfzc.org/tassajara

rustic, cater to beginners and gurus alike. One of the world’s most renowned yoga

able) option is The Oaks at Ojai, where

Indian Springs indianspringscalistoga.com

retreats is tucked into the Santa Ynez

healthy weight loss and conscious eating

Mountains above Santa Barbara. At the

are emphasized, and activities include

Meadowood meadowood.com/spa

White Lotus Foundation Center, guests

hula hooping, Qi Gong, hiking and roller

spend their days doing sun salutations in a

blading. Indulge in a pomegranate sugar

Osmosis osmosis.com

canyon with ocean views, hiking through

rub, lemongrass lavender pedicure or

old-growth oaks, meditating in an under-

river-rock massage.

White Lotus whitelotus.org Golden Door goldendoor.com The Oaks at Ojai oaksspa.com

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Another excellent (and more afford-

ground Hopi-style kiva and swimming in

Ultimately, California’s spa culture

natural stone pools. Massages are available,

promises visitors far more than relax-

gourmet vegetarian fare is served, and

ation; it ensures that this time you won’t

sleeping quarters are heated yurts or creek-

need a vacation from your vacation. You’ll

side camping under the stars. (Tip: Yurts 1

return home refreshed and recharged—

and 2 are closest to the center and, more

that is, if you can bring yourself to return

importantly, to the hot tub and sauna.)

home at all.

ELENA RAY/SHUTTERSTOCK; ROBCOCQUYT/SHUTTERSTOCK

Two Bunch Palms Resort & Spa twobunchpalms.com

SPENDING

Quality Time TOGETHER

Finally, a way to spend quality time with friends and family while enjoying the adventure of a road trip without driving. Traveling by train means fun for everyone – including the driver. Read, dine, play games, or just relax in your spacious seat and enjoy the view. On Amtrak seniors age 62+ receive a 15% discount and kids ages 2-15 travel for 50% off the adult fare. Book your trip today and experience traveling by train. ®

Coast Starlight ® California Zephyr® Southwest Chief

Sunset Limited® Paciﬁc Surﬂiner® San Joaquin® Capitol Corridor

Los Angeles – Santa Barbara – Bay Area – Sacramento – Portland – Seattle Bay Area – Sacramento – Reno – Salt Lake City – Denver – Chicago Los Angeles – Flagstaff – Albuquerque – Kansas City – Chicago Los Angeles – Palm Springs – Tucson – El Paso – San Antonio – New Orleans San Diego – Los Angeles – Santa Barbara – San Luis Obispo Los Angeles – Bakersﬁeld – Fresno – Bay Area/Sacramento San Jose – Bay Area – Sacramento

Book your trip today at Amtrak.com or call 1-800-USA-RAIL.

Welcome Aboard.

Fares, routes, schedules and services are subject to change without notice. Travelers 62 years of age and over are eligible to receive 15% off the best available adult rail fare on most Amtrak trains. Children ages 2 through 15 receive a 50% discount on most Amtrak rail fares, all year long, when accompanied by at least one person paying a regular full adult rail fare. Up to two children’s discounts are permitted in conjunction with each adult traveler. Sleeping car, Business Class and First Class upgrades are permitted upon payment of full accommodation charges. Discounts cannot be combined. Other restrictions may apply. Amtrak, Coast Starlight, California Zephyr, Enjoy the journey, Paciﬁc Surﬂiner, San Joaquin, Southwest Chief and Sunset Limited are service marks of the National Railroad Passenger Corporation. Capitol Corridor is a registered service mark of the Capitol Corridor Joint Powers Authority.

CA.RAILWAY JOURNEYS

BY JAN RODRICKS

When That Lonesome Whistle Blows Climb aboard for wide-angle views and a trainful of fun

York and San Francisco reached Oakland after a journey of less than four days. Prior to that day, a coast-to-coast trip had taken months—and might include births, deaths and attacks by rogues or Indians. Californians love their trains, and with good reason. They’re an excellent way to enjoy some of North America’s most spectacular scenery: from mountain ranges to coastal panoramas. Some of the routes are short, scenic excursions. Others are purely practical, ferrying commuters between the capitals of California commerce.

Amtrak Adventures The gold standard of California rail trips is arguably Amtrak’s Coast Starlight. Before it crosses the border into Oregon, northbound passengers are treated to a spectrum of Cal-

AMTRAK

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ifornia’s greatest hits. Whether one boards at Los Angeles’ Union Station or Oakland’s Jack London Square, you’ll see snow-capped

“It smells like a skunk!” So claimed early

peaks, lush forests and shimmering shore-

residents along the Redwood Route of Cal-

lines. The full trip, from Los Angeles to

ifornia’s

Seattle (or reverse), takes 35 hours.

Mendocino

County,

where

motorcars carried freshly-hewn redwood

But accolades for “most beautiful train

logs (and logging families) to sawmills

trip in North America” are lavished on

along the coast. Now 128 years in service,

Amtrak’s California Zephyr, a 51-hour ride

the “Skunk Train”—recently reopened after

connecting the Bay Area and Chicago. This

a tunnel collapse threatened to shut it

adventure begins daily in Emeryville

down for good—is one of many historic

(across the bay from San Francisco), and

routes interlacing the Golden State.

climbs two mountain ranges—the Sierra

California’s colorful railway history is

Nevada to Reno, and the Rockies to Denver

the stuff of American legend. On June 4,

(you can also get off at Truckee, and visit

1876, the first express train to connect New

Lake Tahoe). If a desert crossing is more to

AMTRAK

Founded in 1971 to provide intercity passenger train service across the country, Amtrak serves 46 of the 50 states and three Canadian provinces on 21,000 miles (34,000 km) of track.

COAST STARLIGHT, right; Amtrak sightseer lounge car, opposite; Pacific Surfliner, San Diego station, opposite left.

your taste, Amtrak’s Southwest Chief connects LA with Chicago via the Mojave and the Sunset limited, Amtrak’s most southern route, connects LA with New Orleans via Tucson, San Antonio and Houston. Three other popular train routes are

A Reminder of Childhood

operated by Amtrak. The Capital Corridor

Departing from Woodland, the Sacra-

connects San Francisco with Sacramento

mento RiverTrain features beer, wine, fine

While we’re on super-short train rides, few

through the state’s agricultural heartland.

food and live music as it follows the Sacra-

equal the charm of the Redwood Valley

The Pacific Surfliner, a six-hour, Pacific-

mento River on a three-hour, 32-mile trip.

Railway in Tilden Park, Berkeley. The 12-

hugging trip that joins San Luis Obispo and

There are several specialty rides, including

minute ride—with tiny steam locomotives

San Diego (via Santa Barbara and Los

Sunset Dinners, Great Train Robberies (on

pulling open-bed cars—chugs through

Angeles), boasts bicycle and surfboard

Saturdays) and the Zombie Train. What next?

rustic tunnels and around bends, offering

racks, and free Wi-Fi. Access to Yosemite

Another dinner option is the Sierra Rail-

panoramic views of San Francisco Bay. For

can be arranged via the San Joaquin line to

road, one of several rail lines built in the late

$2, it’s a true family experience—even dogs

Merced, where a waiting luxury bus will

19 century to link the Gold Country with the

take you into the National Park.

Central Valley. Today, the excursion “provides visitors an opportunity to travel on the

are welcome!

» CATCH A TRAIN!

Excursion Favorites

historic Sierra Railroad while enjoying a deli-

Until 1930, visitors to Mt. Tamalpais—the

cious meal, beautiful countryside and a wide

Bay Area’s signature 2,574-foot peak—

range of entertainment.” Passengers board in

could ride the Mt. Tamalpais & Muir

Oakdale, 90 miles east of San Francisco (and

Woods Railway: “The Crookedest Railroad

70 miles south of Sacramento).

Amtrak amtrak.com

dismantled, there are still plenty of

Historic Revivals

quirky, unusual excursions available to

There are a variety of shorter train rides

Skunk Train skunktrain.com

the 21st-century traveler. These include

throughout California, providing a taste of

Mendocino’s irresistible Skunk Train,

what travel was like for settlers in the

mentioned above. Starting at the coastal

1800s. Santa Cruz’s Roaring Camp Railroad

town of Fort Bragg, the Skunk navigates

offers an hour-long Beach Train, or a steam

some 30 bridges, trestles and tunnels on

train through redwood groves. The

its 40-mile journey between Fort Bragg

Yosemite Mountain Sugar Pine Railroad

and Willits.

provides

in the World.” Though that line has been

four-mile,

narrow-gauge

Book your tickets early for the popular

reminder of the days when logs felled in

Napa Valley Wine Train, with three-hour

the Sierra forests were carried to the fast-

round trips in “meticulously restored rail

growing settlements in the Central Valley.

cars” between Napa and St. Helena in Cal-

And though it’s super-short (just 298 feet!),

ifornia’s wine country. Enjoy a la carte or

a ride up the incline served by the Angels

gourmet dining, depending on your class

Flight Railway in downtown LA, dating

of ticket. Lunch and dinner trains run

from 1901, is just about the most fun you

daily, with winery tours available.

can have in Los Angeles for 50 cents.

Napa Valley Wine Train winetrain.com Sacramento RiverTrain sacramentorivertrain.com Sierra Railroad: Oakdale sierrarailroad.com Roaring Camp Railroad roaringcamp.com Angels Flight Railway angelsflight.com Yosemite Mountain Sugar Pine Railroad ymsprr.com Redwood Valley Railway redwoodvalleyrailway.com

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CA.ROAD TRIPS

BY JOHN FLINN

Take the Wheel!

PACIFIC COAST HIGHWAY (Highway 1) at the southern end of Big Sur.

PACIFIC COAST HIGHWAY One of the world’s great drives, the Pacific Coast Highway meanders along California’s rocky coastline with breathtaking views over most of its 1000-mile length. Visitors could spend their entire vacations driving and exploring the attractions along the way. For more information on regions it passes through, see Central Coast, pages 134-137, and North Coast, pages 138-141.

Californians didn’t invent the car, but

Up the Coast

they like to think, with some justification,

Northern Californians call it “Highway 1”

that they invented the automobile lifestyle.

and Southern Californians call it the

With drive-thru grocery stores, drive-

“Pacific Coast Highway”—or, simply, the

thru pharmacies, drive-thru churches and

“PCH”—but there’s no doubt that the road

even drive-thru mortuaries, one gets the

that hugs the state’s remarkable coastline,

feeling that if Californians could only

often close enough to feel the salt spray, is

invent a drive-thru delivery room they

one of the world’s classic driving trips.

could happily go from cradle to grave

From the sun-splashed Southern Cali-

without ever having to pull over to the curb.

fornia beaches to the misty redwood

California is a land of supersized dis-

forests near the Oregon border, the journey,

tances, jumbo landscapes and big-gulp

which includes a few stretches on other

vistas, and the best way to see it all is on a

highways, is a touch over 1,000 miles.

road trip, or, better yet, a series of road trips. Here are a few of our favorites.

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The sights are so numerous we can barely scratch the surface: The Hotel Del

WELCOMIA/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: BRANNEND/SHUTTERSTOCK; GALYNA ANDRUSHKO/SHUTTERSTOCK; SASHA BUZKO/SHUTTERSTOCK

Explore California’s highways and byways

The northern stretch traverses ranchland that was once—and sometimes still is—the domain of Basque sheepherders, and in the town of Gardnerville, just over the border in Nevada, you have your choice

HOTEL DEL CORONADO in San Diego, left; Mono Lake tufa formations, below; winter travel on Highway 395 along the eastern Sierra Nevada, bottom.

of excellent Basque restaurants. As you drive south, keep an eye out for cowboys, although these days they’re as likely to be riding an all-terrain vehicle as a horse. Farther south, as you approach Mono Lake, you’ll probably encounter members of the Washoe and Paiute tribes. Coronado, where Marilyn Monroe frol-

Highway 395 grazes the shore of enor-

icked in Some Like It Hot; classic surfing

mous Mono Lake, which is so alkaline

beaches made famous by the Beach Boys;

Mark Twain once joked he could do his

star-studded Malibu; Riviera-like Santa

laundry merely by dragging it behind him

Barbara; Hearst Castle; Big Sur; Santa Cruz,

in a boat. In Bishop, the studio of the late

with its old-timey beach boardwalk; San

photographer Galen Rowell has become a

Francisco; Point Reyes National Seashore;

major attraction. Stop at Manzanar, just off

artsy Mendocino; Redwood National Park.

the highway, for a poignant visit to the site

A few tips: Allow far more time than you

of a relocation camp for Americans of

think you need; besides the frequent diver-

Japanese heritage during World War II. In

sions, the road is so winding in places it’s

Lone Pine, the Indian Trading Post sports

hard to average more than 30 miles per hour. If you’re prone to carsickness, this isn’t the trip for you. Keep your gas tank full and your bladder empty. In some areas, particularly Big Sur, it’s more than 40 miles between gas stations—and bathrooms.

Cowboys & Indians East of the Sierra Nevada the green, populated West Coast ends and the brown, sagebrushcovered West begins. This is the Old Frontier of our imagination, a realm of real cowboys and real Indians (and also, as we shall see, of cinematic cowboys and Indians.) Highway 395 hugs the state’s eastern border, and the 264-mile stretch of high desert from Reno to Lone Pine, which passes

tumbleweeds,

swinging-door

saloons and ghost towns beneath the breathtakingly sheer eastern wall of the Sierra Nevada, is one of California’s most iconic drives.

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CA.ROAD TRIPS GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE in San Francisco, right; hiking trail to Muir Woods National Monument in Mount Tamalpais State Park in the San Francisco Bay Area, below.

Day Trips You don’t have to spend days or weeks on the highway to see the best of California. Within easy reach of major cities are exquisite road trips you can do in less than a day.

San Francisco Head north, across the Golden Gate Bridge, most bucolic scenery. Almost within sight of San Francisco’s skyscrapers you’ll come to Muir Woods National Monument, a cathedral-like preserve of old-growth redwoods at the foot of Mount Tamalpais. Follow Highway 1 to Point Reyes National Seashore, where you might catch tule elk grazing on misty hillsides above the wavebattered coast. West Marin County, with its organic farms, artisanal bakeries and gourmet cheesemakers, is the breadbasket for San Francisco’s foodie culture. Stop for lunch at the Hog Island Oyster Farm, where you can munch on bivalve mollusks pulled straight out of Tomales Bay. The long, narrow bay, incidentally, is a submerged section of the notorious San Andreas Fault. Farther north on Highway 1 you’ll come to Bodega Bay, a sleepy fishing village where Alfred Hitchcock unleashed avian terror in The Birds. The Tides restaurant, where terrified townspeople took shelter, is still there, although hardly recognizable in its autographs on the wall from Gary Cooper,

current form. A few miles inland, in the

PICK YOUR HIGHWAY

John Wayne and other cinematic cowboys

separate town of Bodega, you can find the

who filmed Westerns in the nearby Ala-

familiar schoolhouse and church from the

bama Hills.

movie. Continue on to Sebastopol,

A few tips: Springtime, when the Sierra

renowned for its juicy Gravenstein apples

CA-1 The Coast pacific-coast-highway-travel.com

is still clad in snow, is the prettiest time for

and an outpost of Sonoma County’s wine

the drive, although some side trips may be

country. Turn south on Highway 101 and

limited. For an overnight stop, the town of

head back to San Francisco, stopping for a

Bishop offers the largest selection of

celebratory cocktail in Sausalito, with the

motels and restaurants.

lights of the city twinkling across the bay.

US-395 Eastern Sierra aaroads.com/California/us-395_ca

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

UBJSP/SHUTTERSTOCK; PETE NIESEN/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: KONSTANTIN SUTYAGIN/SHUTTERSTOCK; STEVE HEAP/SHUTTERSTOCK; JULIEN HAUTCOEUR/SHUTTERSTOCK

to sample some of Northern California’s

Los Angeles On a day trip along the Angeles Crest Scenic Byway you’re more likely to spot a DOME OF THE PALOMAR TELESCOPE on Palomar Mountain, above; downtown Los Angeles at twilight in winter, left; “Forever Marilyn,” a giant statue of Marilyn Monroe designed by Seward Johnson, in Palm Springs, below.

bighorn sheep than a Kardashian. Winding

San Diego

up and over narrow ridgetops in the San

Cross the Palomar Mountains to soak up

Gabriel Mountains, above the smog, your

the vast and colorful Anza-Borrego desert

vistas can range from the vast, chocolate-

on a daylong drive from San Diego. Make

brown Mojave Desert to Catalina Island.

your way north on I-15 and east to Ramona,

Also known as State Highway 2, the 66-

and then continue on to the ridgetop town

mile-long Angeles Crest Scenic Byway was

of Julian. A beautifully preserved relic of an

built 100 years ago to be “the most scenic

1870s gold rush, Julian these days is

and picturesque mountain road in the

renowned for apples. You’ll smell the

state.” Access it from the suburb of La

aroma of baking pies as soon as you step

Canada Flintridge at the western end of the

out of your car. Stop for a slice, just out of

San Gabriel Valley. The popular side-trip

the oven, warm and gooey with a scoop of

hike to the summit of 6,164-foot Straw-

French vanilla ice cream. The air here is so

berry Peak is still closed due to a 2009 fire,

clean, and the views so extensive, that the

but as you drive east on the narrow two-

California Institute of Technology built the

lane road keep an eye out for bears,

Palomar Observatory a few miles away.

mountain lions and bighorn sheep.

Continue east, downhill, on Highway 78 to

Another side trip brings you to the Mount

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, a 937-

Wilson Observatory, where astronomers

square-mile preserve that encompasses

found the first observational evidence for

the eastern fifth of San Diego County. If it’s

the Big Bang theory. If you’ve brought

spring, and the winter has been wet, you’ll

along your fishing rod, try your luck in

be treated to one of the most vivid and

to prehistoric camels and ground sloths to

Little Rock Creek near the Mt. Waterman

sweeping displays of wildflowers in the

scenes from California history: a Spanish

Ski Resort. Farther east, the road crosses

United States. If the flowers aren’t up,

padre, a gold miner and farmworkers. One

the 2,665-mile-long Pacific Crest National

there’s still plenty to see. A local landowner

of the latest is the undisputed highlight: an

Scenic Trail: From here you can hike south

commissioned artist Ricardo Arroyo Bre-

enormous sea serpent that undulates so far

to Mexico or north to Canada. From the

ceda to produce more than 130 giant

across the desert that it spans one of the

road’s end at Highway 138, head southeast

sculptures in the desert, everything from

main roads. From here you can retrace

to Interstate 15, which will whisk you back

life-size replicas of gomphotheres (ele-

your route or take the long way home via

to the Los Angeles Basin.

phant-like creatures that once lived there)

the Salton Sea and Palm Springs.

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SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA The Bay Area’s transcendent beauty and culture invite exploration

BY LAURA DEL ROSSO

TOP CITIES San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley, San Jose, Napa, Sonoma, Palo Alto, Santa Rosa, Sausalito INTERNATIONAL GATEWAYS San Francisco International Airport (SFO), 12 miles (19 km) from downtown San Francisco Oakland International Airport (OAK), 8 miles (13 km) from downtown Oakland San Jose International Airport (SJC), 4 miles (6 km) from downtown San Jose

the skyline of San Francisco, the vast Pacific Ocean, ancient red-

wood groves, acres of vineyards and a coastline of rocky cliffs and sandy beaches. Combine those with a Mediterranean climate and a dynamic environment of high-tech entrepreneurs and it’s no wonder the San

oaklandcvb.com santaclara.org sanjose.org visitmarin.org sonomacounty.com

Francisco Bay Area encourages a seductive, can-do way of life that revolves around the diversity and high energy of its residents and the great outdoors at its doorstep. The hub of the area is San Francisco, famed for its colorful neighborhoods, world-class cuisine and a welcoming spirit of openness and tolerance in the most European of

POPULATION 7.35 million

American cities. Besides the landmark bridge, other popular attractions draw millions each year to what boosters call “Everyone’s Favorite City.”

North Bay: Marin, Sonoma & Napa Across the Golden Gate to the north lies Marin County, one of the most beautiful and affluent areas of the U.S. Among its many inviting towns are Sausalito,Tiburon and Mill Valley. The mountain bike was invented SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

here to maneuver the twisty trails on Mount Tamalpais. On the Marin coast, one ruggedly gorgeous beach follows another, including along spectacular Point Reyes National Seashore.

SAN FRANCISCO TRAVEL ASSOCIATION/SCOTT CHERNIS

TOURISM WEBSITES sanfrancisco.travel visitnapavalley.com santacruzca.org sanmateocountycvb.com visitberkeley.com

he San Francisco Bay Area is a destination that never disap-

points visitors: the majestic towers of the Golden Gate Bridge,

A CALIFORNIA STREET CABLE CAR crests Nob Hill, opposite.

MUST

SEE, DO

Also in the North Bay, Sonoma and Napa counties are home to acres of vineyards and dozens of wineries producing some of the world’s finest wines. Among the small towns full of boutiques, shops and tasting rooms is the Napa Valley hamlet of Yountville, a foodie dining mecca, with several Michelin-starred restaurants.

South Bay: Palo Alto & Santa Cruz In Palo Alto on the peninsula south of San Francisco, lies the bucolic campus of Stanford University, one of the country’s leading universities. Neighboring San Mateo County’s coastline still shows its traditional fishing and agricultural roots. It’s within a short drive of major population centers yet a world away, with its sprawling artichoke fields and miles of pristine beaches. Santa Cruz County to the south offers visitors a wealth of attractions, including parks and wineries in its redwood-covered mountain range, and laid-back beaches where surfers polish their technique.

DRIVE

» TOUR Start by crossing the Golden Gate Bridge driving north, stopping in SAUSALITO. Head northwest to MOUNT

TAMALPAIS STATE PARK and take the steep, twisting road to the Pantoll Ranger Station and drive the

PANORAMIC HIGHWAY for ocean, city and mountain views. Drive to MUIR WOODS

NATIONAL MONUMENT for a short walk among redwoods. Head back toward Sausalito and Highway 101 and drive north to the wine country town of SONOMA. Explore its shady plaza, surrounded by shops, wine tasting rooms and historic sites. From Sonoma, it’s a short drive to California’s other major wine region, Napa Valley, and the city of NAPA.

San Francisco’s Museums The Exploratorium, a kid-friendly science museum that re-located to a striking new building on Pier 15 in 2013, is just one of San Francisco’s many museums. The California Academy of Sciences and the de Young Museum, both in Golden Gate Park, and the Legion of Honor overlooking the Pacific are other standouts. The Asian Art Museum is one of the world’s largest museums devoted exclusively to Asian art. Smaller museums such as the Jewish Contemporary Museum and the Walt Disney Family Museum also are well worth a visit. › sanfrancisco.travel

Wine Country During Crush Sample Northern California’s top-rated wines during the height of the harvest, known as “crush,” in September and October. You can even join in at wineries such as Napa’s Grgich Hills Estate, which offers a day of stomping grapes from Labor Day to Halloween. Or, for a more sedentary time have lunch or dinner on the Napa Valley Wine Train that takes visitors through vineyards turning reds and golds during the harvest, the season when the wine country’s weather is at its best. › napavalley.com

The San Mateo Coast Plan a trip to the San Mateo County coast during the height of whale watching season, December through May, or to the elephant seals’ breeding grounds at Ano Nuevo State Park, where docents offer guided tours December through March. In October, orange pumpkins dot the fields and Half Moon Bay’s Art and Pumpkin Festival rocks the town. › sanmateocountycvb.com

San Francisco’s Bridges Rent a bike and pedal from San Francisco over the Golden Gate Bridge, taking new trails that skirt Civil War-era Fort Point, stopping at the Bridge Pavilion, a visitors’ center with exhibits tracing bridge history. Drive the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge and its spectacular east span that opened in 2013 and includes a walking and biking path that will eventually connect Oakland to Treasure Island. › sanfrancisco.travel

Sample Local Food The Bay Area is heaven for food lovers, and farmers markets thrive year round, including at Marin’s Civic Center and in San Francisco where three of the most impressive are the Ferry Building, Civic Center and Alemany markets. The food truck boom also puts the area’s food-loving culture on display with Off the Grid events, including a popular evening event at Fort Mason on Fridays. › Sanfrancisco.travel › offthegridsf.com

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

INSIDER’S

» TIP

For some of the best views in the entire Bay Area, take a ferry from Tiburon or San Francisco to ANGEL ISLAND, the largest island in the bay. Tour by segway or tram, or rent a bike or hike the trails that circle the island, known as the “Ellis Island of the West” because of its historic role as a U.S. Immigration Station for Chinese

East Bay: Berkeley & Oakland

The city is easy to explore on foot, with

vast open spaces to savor the Bay Area’s

On the eastern side of the bay lies the col-

the waterfront Embarcadero, Fisherman’s

varied natural beauty. Among the high-

lege town of Berkeley, with its history

Wharf, Chinatown and Union Square (the

lights are the majestic Marin Headlands

of political idealism, University of Cali-

largest shopping area in the western U.S.)

and San Francisco’s Presidio and Crissy

fornia academic prestige and coffeehouse

all within a short walk of each other. Col-

Field, a popular walking area and restored

intellectualism. Berkeley is almost syn-

orful vintage streetcars rumble down the

wetlands that also draws kite boarders to

onymous with Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse

Embarcadero and Market Street, con-

the white-capped waters at the Golden Gate.

and the movement to organic, local and

necting to public transportation that carries

Rolling green hillsides dotted with Cal-

seasonal food. Berkeley’s larger neighbor,

visitors to the city’s many diverse neighbor-

ifornia golden poppies make spring an

Oakland, is a culturally diverse city with

hoods and to Golden Gate Park, the large

especially ideal time to explore Mount

vibrant neighborhoods and lovely Lake

greenbelt that extends to the Pacific Ocean.

Tamalpais and Muir Woods in Marin

Merritt, whose three-mile path draws jog-

The region’s other major cities are San

County. Point Reyes National Seashore’s

Jose, where revitalization has brought an

beautiful coastal terrain contains an abun-

gers and walkers.

urban vibe, restaurants and museums

dance of wildlife, including migrating

City & Town

downtown, and Oakland, which attracts

shorebirds and ducks, whales that are

Even though it was surpassed in popula-

visitors with the renovated Museum of

easily seen off the coast in migration

tion by San Jose long ago, San Francisco

California, bay-front Jack London Square

season (mid-January to mid-March) and a

remains the region’s cultural hub. The city

and a trendy dining scene it shares with its

herd of tule elk.

draws more than 16 million travelers each

college-town neighbor, Berkeley.

year to its dense 49 square miles con-

There also is no lack of wide open spaces in the East Bay, where the regional

taining its famously steep hills, thousands

The Great Outdoors

park district includes 65 parks covering

of restaurants offering an astonishing

One of the world’s largest urban parks—the

113,000 acres in Alameda and Contra Costa

variety of cuisines, different groups of

Golden Gate National Recreation Area—

counties. In the Santa Cruz Mountains,

people, fascinating neighborhoods, parks,

stretches over 60 miles of Bay Area

amid several vast open space preserves,

Victorian-era houses and world-class

coastline. The area encompasses beaches,

lies California’s oldest state park, Big Basin

museums and cultural activities.

historic sites, biking and hiking trails and

Redwoods, established in 1902.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

SAN FRANCISCO TRAVEL ASSOCIATION/SCOTT CHERNIS

immigrants from 1910 to 1940.

Heritage & Culture

Museum of Modern Art, the de Young

Early Mexican and Spanish explorers and

Museum and California Academy of Sci-

settlers in the Bay Area left their mark,

ences in Golden Gate Park. In Oakland,

mostly in place names but also in historic

there’s the Museum of California and, in

buildings from that era. San Francisco’s Mis-

Palo Alto, the Cantor Arts Center at Stanford.

sion Dolores, established in 1776, is the

A lively art scene is found throughout the

oldest building in San Francisco and the

region and dozens of theater, opera, sym-

oldest intact original mission in California.

phony and dance companies are based here.

The patchwork design of its beamed ceilings

Diverse cultural influences thrive in

resembles local Native American basket

pockets spread throughout the region,

weaving. Other old missions are found else-

including many from Asia: Japantown

where in the Bay Area: in Sonoma, San

and Chinatown in San Francisco, another

Rafael, Santa Clara, San Jose and Santa Cruz.

Chinatown in Oakland and thriving Viet-

Vestiges of San Francisco’s colorful past,

namese and Southeast Asian communities

when the 1849 Gold Rush catapulted it from

in South Bay cities. Mexican and other

a hamlet to a large city almost overnight,

Latin American influences can be found

THE JAZZ HERITAGE CENTER celebrates the roots of the Fillmore District, above.

can still be seen in thousands of 19 -cen-

throughout, particularly in San Francisco’s

tury Victorians and quaint old quarters

Mission district, while Italian immigrants

such as Alamo Square and Jackson Square.

left their indelible mark in San Francisco’s

The Bay Area is home to world-class

North Beach and Sonoma and Napa wine-

museums, including the San Francisco

growing areas.

Family Fun

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2014

Spend a day at the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, a century-old amusement park famous for The Giant Dipper, a 1920s-era

CHINESE NEW YEAR PARADE Feb. 15, San Francisco chineseparade.com CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL April 12-13, 19-20, San Francisco nccbf.org

roller coaster. On the San Mateo County coast, Half Moon Bay’s mid-October festival features

BAY TO BREAKERS May 18, San Francisco baytobreakers.com

pumpkin carving and pie-eating contests,

CARNAVAL May 24-25, San Francisco sfcarnaval.com

while nearby, Santa Clara’s Great America

ETHNIC DANCE FESTIVAL June 1-30, San Francisco worldartswest.org STERN GROVE FESTIVAL June 22-Aug. 24, San Francisco sterngrove.org

theme park thrills visitors with the most water rides in Northern California. San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf and

GAY PRIDE WEEKEND June 28-29, San Francisco sfpride.org

Pier 39 are lined with shops, restaurants,

KITE FESTIVAL July 26-27, Berkeley highlinekites.com

street performers and even a colony of sea

SAUSALITO ART FESTIVAL Aug. 30-Sep. 1, Sausalito sausalitoartfestival.org

lions that wow crowds. The pier also offers an antique carousel and the Aquarium of

HARDLY STRICTLY BLUEGRASS Oct. 3-5, San Francisco hardlystrictlybluegrass.com

the Bay, with more than 20,000 marine

ART & PUMPKIN FESTIVAL Oct. 18-19, Half Moon Bay miramarevents.com

animals. Over in Golden Gate Park, the Cal-

UNION SQUARE TREE LIGHTING Nov. 28, San Francisco macys.com FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS Nov. 28, Yountville yountville.com

ifornia Academy of Sciences draws families with its penguin exhibit, a walkthrough rainforest and aquarium with a live coral reef tank.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

SAN FRANCISCO No wonder it’s known as “everyone’s favorite city”

BY LAURA DEL ROSSO

IN JUST 49 SQUARE MILES, San Francisco

In the Presidio, the former military base

contains more scenic beauty, neighborhood

continues its decades-old transformation

diversity, good food and range of arts and cul-

into a diverse national park with museums,

ture than any U.S. city of its size. The landmark

attractions and miles of walking and biking

Golden Gate Bridge, cable cars, Alcatraz and

trails in the shadow of the Golden Gate

Fisherman’s Wharf are synonymous with the

Bridge. At Fisherman’s Wharf, a makeover is

City by the Bay, also known for an atmosphere

creating more attractive and pedestrian-

of tolerance that stretches back to the Gold Rush

friendly streets.

when one of the largest migrations in human history brought thousands west.

T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

since 2012 are SFJAZZ Center at Civic Center, the

San Francisco is one of the great U.S. cities for

Exploratorium on the newly thriving Embar-

food and dining, with renowned chefs, a wide

cadero, the wondrous Bay Lights installation on

variety of ethnic cuisine and restaurant-mad locals

the western span of the Bay Bridge (which runs

spending more on eating out than residents of any

until March 2015), and visitors centers that

other American city. Culture is abundant, with

opened to much acclaim at the Golden Gate

world-class museums, theater, opera, symphony

Bridge and Lands End, the stunning windswept

and ballet, helped by a public commitment that

overlook on the Pacific Ocean.

pre-dates the National Endowment for the Arts.

76 2 014

Among the attractions that have opened

While the San Francisco Museum of Modern

There’s a renewed vitality in many parts of

Art is closed for an expansion and renovation

the city: An influx of technology start-ups and

until 2016, art from its large collection will be

young tech workers has led to a boom in restau-

displayed at various venues throughout the city,

rants, bars and nightlife, especially in the

including at the de Young Museum, which is

vibrant Mission district and South of Market

showing 23 Henri Matisse drawings and paint-

areas. The latest food craze is Off The Grid,

ings through Sept. 7. Also at the de Young in

groups of mobile food trucks that serve up

2014 is a retrospective of Georgia O’Keeffe’s

gourmet food at historic Fort Mason on Friday

work Feb. 15-May 11. For trip planning, see

evenings and other spots around the city.

sanfrancisco.travel.

PROCHASSON FREDERIC/SHUTTERSTOCK. TOP: KROPIC1/SHUTTERSTOCK.

AN ELEGANT ROW of Victorian houses lines Steiner Street at Alamo Square, above; the Golden Gate Bridge at sunset, below.

1 0 4 Montgomery Str eet 104 Street In the Pr esidio Presidio San Francisco, CA 94133 waltdisney waltdisney.org .org

TRI-VALLEY A fine place to dine, relax, play

THE COURSE AT WENTE VINEYARDS, top; Alameda County Fair, above.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

THIRTY-FIVE MILES EAST of San Fran-

relatively low profile until recent years;

cisco, the Tri-Valley region melds an

these days, more than 50 wineries bring

agricultural past of ranching, farming, rail-

advanced techniques and sophistication

roading and sleepy country crossroads into a

to Livermore Valley vintages. Local

bustling present of expansive parklands, 21st-

wineries join forces to pour their wines,

century viniculture, revitalized historic

with meals and live music, at Livermore’s

downtowns and family-friendly outdoor fun.

Underdog Wine Bar.

East of San Francisco Bay and over the

Wente Vineyards’ annual summer

ridgelines of the East Bay Regional

music series features international head-

Parks—with their water- and valley

liners in open-air concerts; the winery also

vistas, networked hiking trails and shady

operates a restaurant and 18-hole golf

clumps of dignified valley oaks—are

course designed by Greg Norman. The

three connected valleys: Amador, Liver-

Course at Wente Vineyards is one of 14

more and San Ramon. Nestled in the

places to tee it up in Tri-Valley; many

valleys and linked by Interstate highways

courses have sterling designer credentials;

680 and 580 are the cities of Livermore,

Dublin Ranch Golf Course was designed by

Pleasanton, Dublin and San Ramon and

Robert Trent Jones Jr.

the town of Danville. At 3,849 feet high,

The city of Livermore’s historic down-

Mount Diablo is the region’s most dra-

town has recently blossomed with new

matic landmark; it is well-used by hikers,

places to eat, drink and shop. The Vine

mountain bikers and motorists, who go

Center, downtown on First Street, encom-

to the twin summits for a workout or a

passes shops and the Vine Cinema, which

lookout to the Pacific.

screens classics, foreign and independent

Back in the 1880s, the Livermore Valley

films and pours wine and beer for

became the first commercial wine-

cinephiles in a building with a handsome,

making region in California. It kept a

barrel-vaulted ceiling. Livermore Premium

COURTESY OF VISIT TRI-VALLEY

BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

Outlets and Stoneridge Shopping Center,

a wide range of tequilas. The Wine

near where Dublin meets Pleasanton, offer

Steward, just down the block, sells wines

retail therapy.

from the Livermore Valley and far beyond

Pleasanton also hosts the popular

in a two-level space.

WINE, DINE,

» GOLF, SHOP! visittrivalley.com

Alameda County Fair every summer, when

San Ramon’s multiuse Central Park is an

contemporary music acts, prize-winning

attractive expanse festooned with softball

livestock, rodeo daredevils and traditional

and soccer fields, a mushroom shower and

snacks and games open a window onto

wading pool, children’s play area and

Danville expands outward from a man-

America’s past. The boutique Rose Hotel,

courts for pick-up basketball. Be ready if

icured historic core. The running shoe and

owned by the family of NFL legend John

you want to play some hoops here; the

gear shop Forward Motion Sports and the

Madden, brightens Main Street downtown.

local players got game. The 12-mile Iron

delectable Danville Chocolates store

Also on Pleasanton’s Main Street is Blue

Horse Trail for walkers and bicyclists fol-

cluster along and near the main drag, Hartz

Agave Club, a spacious indoor and outdoor

lows a long-vanished rail line through San

Avenue. Also on Hartz, Sideboard restau-

venue for contemporary Mexican food and

Ramon, Dublin and Danville.

rant serves buttery, French-accented fare in the former Danville Hotel, while 1950s-era Vally Medlyn’s dishes up winsome coffee shop breakfasts and lunches; the California omelet with avocado, mushrooms, cheese and hash browns is classic. The Peet’s Coffee & Tea store nearby keeps the community fully caffeinated. In the hills west of I-680, above downtown Danville, Tao House, the restored 1940s home of Eugene O’Neill, provides rewarding glimpses of the Nobel Prizewinning playwright’s life and work. Hikers can wander for miles on the trails above Tao House in Las Trampas Regional Wilderness, with its panoramic views.

FAST & FURIOUS FESTIVAL, left; Livermore Rodeo, below.

201 4

T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

SONOMA VALLEY Wine tasting, fine dining and loads of history

VINEYARD IN SPRING, Sonoma Valley, above; farm stand “The Patch” has lots on the menu, below.

THE 18-MILE-LONG Sonoma Valley,

A combination of Mediterranean cli-

nestled between the Sonoma and Maya-

mate, ideal soil and geography makes

camas

Sonoma Valley one of the finest wine pro-

significant spot in California history, not

mountain

ranges,

holds

ducing regions in the world. Two wineries

only as the birthplace of the state’s wine

within a short distance of the plaza are

industry but also the site where California

among the oldest in California: Buena

was founded in 1846.

Vista, founded by a Hungarian count,

“The Valley of the Moon,” as it is often

Agostin Haraszthy, who planted grapes in

called, lies within vast Sonoma County,

the valley in 1851; and Sebastiani, the

starting from the edge of Santa Rosa at the

oldest continuous family-run winery in

north and extending through acres of

the state. Both offer tours that trace the

well-tended vineyards south to Carneros,

roots of Sonoma’s wine industry.

including the towns of Sonoma, Glen

The idyllic town of Glen Ellen six miles

Ellen and Kenwood and more than 40

north is associated with writer Jack

wineries, including many that are organic

London, whose forested ranch makes up

and biodynamic.

Jack London State Historic Park, where a

In the heart of it all is Sonoma’s shady

visitors center and small museum describe

eight-acre plaza surrounded by acclaimed

the life of one of California’s great authors.

restaurants, boutiques, artisan food shops,

Also in the northern part of Sonoma

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

wine-tasting rooms and charming 19 -

Valley is Kenwood, a town set amidst rows of

century buildings. Among them is Mission

vineyards and home to several well-known

San Francisco Solano de Sonoma, which

wineries, including Chateau St. Jean, which

dates from 1823 and was the last of the

draws visitors to its French-inspired elegant

string of California missions to be con-

gardens and handsome tasting room. For trip

structed by the Franciscan friars.

planning, see sonomavalley.com.

SONOMA VALLEY VISITORS BUREAU. TOP: REBECCA GOSSELIN PHOTOGRAPHY

BY LAURA DEL ROSSO

WINE COUNTRY STARTED HERE

AND SO SHOULD YOU!

S O N O M A V A L L E Y. C O M

1-866-996-1090

BERKELEY Free speech, superb dining, shopping and performing arts

BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

Berkeley Tourism Information visitberkeley.com

SUNSET OVER SAN FRANCISCO BAY and the Campanile, above; Berkeley’s all organic farmers’ market, below.

Avenue in West Berkeley; standout shops

free speech and 1960s counterculture,

include Miki’s Paper, which features exqui-

Berkeley, on the eastern shore of San Fran-

site hand-made Japanese stationery and

cisco Bay, has morphed into a foodie

wrapping paper.

destination and unique arts and shopping

wooden

center, quirky and fun to visit.

brated architects Bernard Maybeck and

The Downtown Arts District on Addison

Julia Morgan—who adapted Arts and

Street showcases the superb Berkeley Reper-

Crafts design to form the Bay Region

tory Theatre, the Aurora Theatre Company

style in the early 20th century—enrich the

and venerable folk music haven the Freight

city. Maybeck’s serene 1910 First Church

and Salvage, which is both a performance

of Christ, Scientist, just east of Telegraph

venue and community-minded folk-music

Avenue and south of the University of

learning center. North Berkeley along and

California campus, is an architectural

near Shattuck Avenue is the city’s Gourmet

hymn to silence.

Ghetto, with its jewel in the crown, Chez

On the UC Berkeley campus proper, Cal

Panisse, founded by the doyenne of fresh,

Performances brings international head-

local, seasonal California cuisine, Alice

liners to Zellerbach Hall, while Cal’s Golden

Waters. The 1966 original Peet’s Coffee and

Bears football team puts on another type of

Tea shop is right nearby, as are excellent

performance in Memorial Stadium over-

food markets, the first-rate cheese shop and

looking San Francisco Bay from its hillside

bakery the Cheese Board and fine restau-

site. Got golf? Certainly. Visitors and locals

rants such as the French-flavored Liaison.

alike tee it up at the 18-hole Tilden Park Golf

Fourth Street, just north of University

T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

brown-shingle

homes and public buildings by cele-

One-of-a-kind shopping abounds on

82 2 014

Gorgeous

mecca. But it’s still Berkeley, proudly off-

Course, in the woodsy Berkeley Hills high above the Bay.

ANDREAS HUB/LIAF.DE.. TOP: CHAO KUSOLLERSCHARIYA/SHUTTERSTOCK

DINE, » SHOP, GOLF, SEE A PLAY.

WORLD-FAMOUS as a historic center of

WHERE DREA AM A M MS OF LUXUR RY COME TRUE.

Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto

Stanford Shopping Center features 140 extraordinary shops and restaurants including Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s, Neiman Marcus, Burberry B Nordstrom, American Girl , The Apple Store, Brooks Brothers, Louis Vuitton, Michael Kors, Nike Running, Ralph Lauren, Tiffany & Co., Tory o Burch, Wilkes W Bashford and so many more. ®

simon.com/travel

SAN JOSE & SILICON VALLEY High-tech innovation hub welcomes visitors

BY LAURA DEL ROSSO TOP CITIES San Jose, Santa Clara, Sunnyvale, Cupertino, Los Gatos, Saratoga, Mountain View, Palo Alto, Menlo Park, Los Altos

an Jose and Silicon Valley are more than home to leading-edge

technology powerhouses Apple, Facebook, Google and other

INTERNATIONAL GATEWAYS San Jose International Airport (SJC), 4 miles (6 km) north of downtown San Jose San Francisco International Airport (SFO), 36 miles (58 km) north of downtown San Jose TOURISM WEBSITES sanjose.org santaclara.org sanmateocountycvb.com POPULATION 1.8 million

familiar names, but a place of vibrant towns with cultural offerings

and vast recreational areas in the nearby Santa Cruz Mountains. The valley has undergone a dramatic change since the mid-20th century when farms, orchards and ranches lined Santa Clara Valley and the area was called “The Valley of Heart’s Delight.” With the technology boom came the development of acres of office parks and an influx of bright, young entrepreneurs—and the new name, Silicon Valley. In the last decade, the robust economy led to a revitalization of cities whose residents are known more for their long workdays than nights on the town. Visitors now find pedestrian-friendly towns, such as charming Saratoga and Los Gatos, with Michelin-starred restaurants and chic shops. Mountain View’s Castro Street and Palo Alto’s University Avenue are hopping, and San Jose’s downtown and the Santana Row district are alive with nightlife and attractions, including the Tech Museum that pays homage to the valley’s innovative spirit. and now offers a tiny museum significant to Silicon Valley history: the HP Garage, the garage where Stanford classmates Bill Hewlett and Dave Packard founded Hewlett-Packard in 1939.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

ARIANA PEREZ

Palo Alto, home of Stanford University, has long been a cultural center, SAN JOSE & SILICON VALLEY

Beyond tech, the valley offers much to

and rows of vineyards and winery tasting

see and do, with theme parks for fami-

rooms cluster in the surrounding moun-

lies, cultural institutions and varied

tains, as well as south of San Jose, along

landscapes, from the Santa Cruz Moun-

the Hecker Pass Highway and around the

tains to lively city and town centers.

city of Gilroy, which is home to an annual

Nestled at the foot of the Santa Cruz

MUST

Garlic Festival that draws thousands.

Mountains are Saratoga and Los Gatos,

With its Mediterranean climate of

hamlets with picture-perfect Victorian

warm summers and mild winters, and

homes and Craftsman bungalows. Vast

location 50 miles south of San Fran-

stretches of parks, open space preserves

cisco and 30 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean, it’s no wonder that Silicon Valley developed as a world center for innovation, drawing some of the best and brightest engineers in the world to a quiet valley where once only fruit trees blossomed.

Cantor Arts Center Stroll Stanford University’s beautiful campus and visit Cantor Arts Center, which features 24 galleries and sculpture gardens, including one of the largest collections of Rodin bronzes outside Paris. Outdoor art by Calder, Goldsworthy and Moore is found throughout the campus. › stanford.edu

TESLA MOTORS, left; San Jose’s Mexican Heritage and Mariachi Festival, opposite.

Santana Row Discover one of San Jose’s restaurant and nightlife hubs at Santana Row, a European-style development with chic shops and fine restaurants, across the street from one of the valley’s major attractions, Winchester Mystery House. › santanarow.com

» DRIVE

Starting in PALO ALTO, take in PALO ALTO

vibrant University Avenue and drive the leafy lanes of stopping to see the mosaics in Memorial Church and the

MAIN QUAD. Head west on

SAN JOSE

SARATOGA CASTLE ROCK STATE PARK

The Tech Museum of Innovation

Try your hand at Silicon Valley’s famous creative spirit at San Jose’s technology museum, which in 2013 introduced a hands-on exhibit, “Social Robots,” allowing visitors to design and build a real robot. Once done, you can program the robot and dress it up. The museum also features many more interactive exhibits and an IMAX theater. › thetech.org

» TOUR

the STANFORD CAMPUS,

SEE,

LOS GATOS

Sand Hill Road to Highway 280 south to revitalized downtown SAN JOSE for a visit to the striking Tech Museum of Innovation. Take Highway 17

California’s Great America The theme park in 2013 opened Gold Striker, Northern California’s tallest and fastest roller coaster, with high-speed turns and drops, one falling 103 feet at a 50-degree angle. Another area theme park ideal for families is Raging Waters in San Jose with a large collection of pools, water slides and private cabanas that groups can rent by the day. › cagreatamerica.com, rwsplash.com

west to LOS GATOS, stopping to enjoy the village-like downtown and its shady plaza, and head south on Highway 9 to the equally charming hamlet of SARATOGA, nestled at the foot of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Continue on Highway 9 up into the mountains to Skyline Boulevard (Highway 35), the crest of the range. Here you’ll find uncrowded wineries, pristine forests and many open space preserves and parks, including CASTLE ROCK STATE PARK, the most spectacular. Follow Skyline Boulevard south and rejoin Highway 17 east, which leads back to San Jose and the heart of Silicon Valley.

Santa Cruz Mountains Take a drive through Los Gatos and Saratoga into the Santa Cruz Mountains to Castle Rock State Park where 32 miles of hiking trails wind through redwood, fir and madrone forests and a large sandstone outcropping draws rock climbers. The park is part of an extensive park and trail system that extends to the Pacific coast. › parks.ca.gov

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

HOOVER TOWER at Stanford University, Palo Alto, right; a koi pond in Hakone Gardens, Saratoga, below.

City and Town San Jose, the county seat of Santa Clara County, was founded in 1777 and today is the largest city in Northern California and 10th largest in the nation. Downtown has undergone significant revitalization over the last decade, with historic buildings such as the California Theatre on the same block as more than 100 software companies that have relocated. The adjacent city of Santa Clara features historic Mission Santa Clara de Asis and its lovely grounds on the campus of Santa Clara University Levi’s Stadium, the new home of the San Francisco 49ers NFL team and the venue for the Super Bowl in 2016.

INSIDER’S

» TIP

A number of Silicon Valley activities are free, including visiting the INTEL MUSEUM,

MISSION SANTA CLARA DE ASIS and its gardens, the TRITON

MUSEUM OF ART and the DE SAISSET MUSEUM. STANFORD UNIVERSITY offers free 70-minute walking tours twice daily seven days a week. Guides lead visitors

Heritage and Culture

year-round farmers’ market. The valley’s

San Jose offers a big-city cultural scene

Mexican community is another large ethnic

with first-rate ballet, opera and theater.

block, evidenced by the huge crowds at the

Museums include the Tech Museum,

festive annual Cinco de Mayo parade.

where visitors discover what made Silicon Valley successful, the Children’s Discovery

The Great Outdoors

Museum, the San Jose Museum of Art and

Wherever you are in Silicon Valley, beau-

the West Coast’s largest collection of

tiful open space is not far away.

ancient Egyptian artifacts at the Rosicrucian Egyptian Museum and Planetarium.

In downtown San Jose, Guadalupe River Park is a convenient greenbelt. Nearby

About 10 percent of San Jose’s population

Alum Rock Park offers 720 acres filled with

is Vietnamese, and this ethnic group has a

tree-lined walking paths. Miles of roads in

strong presence particularly in restaurants

the Santa Cruz Mountains lead to a diverse

university in 1885.

along Story Road and at the Museum of the

collection of county and state parks and

santaclara.org

Boat People in History Park. The city’s

open space preserves in redwood forests

stanford.edu

Japanese community is revitalizing the his-

ideal for camping, hiking, mountain

toric Japantown, which has a bustling

biking or a simple picnic.

through the Main Quad and Memorial Church, describing the history and the founding of the

88 2 01 4

T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

KAVRAM/SHUTTERSTOCK. TOP: ALEXANDER DEMYANENKOR/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: MARIUSZ S. JURGIELEWICZ/SHUTTERSTOCK

and, in the fall of 2014, the billion-dollar

Family Fun For fascinating local lore, head to the Winchester Mystery House, the 160-room

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2014

Victorian estate built by Sara Winchester, the heiress of Winchester Rifles. The huge

SILICON VALLEY AUTO SHOW Jan. 9-12, San Jose motortrendsautoshows.com

house is creepy but beautiful at the same time, with its weird “Stairs to the Ceiling” that lead to nowhere, séance chambers and fine woodwork. California’s Great America theme park offers the most thrill rides in Northern California and includes the massive Great

SANTA CLARA WINERIES SPRING PASSPORT WEEKEND March 29-30, Santa Clara County santaclarawines.com CINCO DE MAYO PARADE AND FESTIVAL May 5, San Jose sanjose.org DOWNTOWN FARMERS’ MARKET Fridays, 10 a.m.-2 p.m., May-Nov., San Jose pcfma.com MOUNTAIN WINERY CONCERT SERIES July-Oct., Saratoga mountainwinery.com

Barrier Reef wave pool. Additional fun is found at 23-acre Raging Waters in San Jose, which bills itself as the region’s largest water

CONNOISSEUR’S MARKETPLACE July 19-20, Menlo Park miramarevents.com GILROY GARLIC FESTIVAL July 25-27, gilroygarlicfestival.com

park. San Jose’s Happy Hollow Park and Zoo and Los Gatos’ Vasona Lake County Park, a

ART AND WINE FESTIVAL Sep. 6-7, Mountain View miramarevents.com

lovely oasis with a train and 1915 carousel, are two other parks that kids love.

FOURTH OF JULY PARADE in San Jose, below; Cesar Chavez Plaza Park, right.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

SANTA CLARA COUNTY Fertile land for ideas, creativity and fun

ARTIST’S RENDERING of Levi’s Stadium, the new home of the San Francisco 49ers beginning in 2014, above; kids marvel at the displays in the Intel Museum, below.

SANTA CLARA COUNTY, also known as

established in 1851 and the oldest college

Silicon Valley, has long drawn people for

in California. Visitors can tour the church,

its abundance. The acres and acres of fer-

the eighth of the state’s 21 missions, where

tile agricultural land that attracted the first

Father Junipero Serra laid a cornerstone in

settlers have today largely been replaced

1781. The actual cornerstone and its con-

by dynamic industry that creates much

tents—a crucifix, images and Spanish

of the world’s state-of-the-art software

coins—are showcased at the university’s

and technology: Intel, Apple, Google,

de Saisset Museum.

Facebook, Cisco and Yahoo all have

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

headquarters here and smart, young pro-

Museums Capture Local History

grammers and engineers flock to the

For a sense of the county’s famous and

valley from around the world, fueling a

more modern history, several museums

high energy atmosphere.

offer a close look at Silicon Valley’s contri-

European explorers saw the valley’s

bution to the digital revolution. At the Intel

potential almost immediately, taken in by

Museum in the corporation’s headquarters

the temperate climate, good soil, plentiful

in Santa Clara, glimpse inside a silicon chip

water and bay access. The Spanish Francis-

factory, tour exhibits of semiconductor

cans were so enchanted that they decided

technology and learn about Robert Noyce,

to build a mission here, Mission Santa

Intel co-founder and co-inventor in 1959 of

Clara de Asis. Today the mission sits on the

the integrated circuit, a move that spawned

campus of historic Santa Clara University,

dozens of Silicon Valley companies.

SANTA CLARA CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU. OPPOSITE: COURTESY OF CALIFORNIA'S GREAT AMERICA

BY LAURA DEL ROSSO

CALIFORNIA’S GREAT AMERICA sends thrill seekers for a loop on Flight Deck, right, and Gold Striker, Northern California’s tallest and fastest wooden roller coaster, is always a thrill, bottom right.

In downtown San Jose, trace the rise of technology and explore new discoveries in science at the Tech Museum of Innovation with its interactive exhibits, an IMAX theater and even a health and biotech gallery where you can try your hand at becoming a real-life genetic engineer. Meanwhile, in Mountain View, the Computer History Museum contains the world’s largest collection of artifacts from the beginnings of the computer age, including some of the first computers from the 1940s and the one-ton “minicomputer” from 1959 that was revolutionary for its time. Another museum, the NASA Ames Research Center at Moffett Field in Santa Clara, offers a fascinating look into the U.S. space program. Among the displays are a moon rock sample collected by the crew of Apollo 15’s mission; a Mercury Redstone capsule launched in 1960, the last unmanned test flight before Mercury 7; and a space shuttle cockpit simulator.

Theme Parks, Football & Shopping The county has plenty of other unique

rian mansion and gardens non-stop over a

attractions. California’s Great America

38-year period to appease the spirits of

theme park in Santa Clara is full of

those killed by the rifle. The maze of quirky

thrilling rides including Gold Striker, the

rooms continues to fascinate visitors.

fastest and tallest wooden roller coaster in

Plenty of shopping opportunities are

Northern California. Rising nearby is the

available all over the county, including at

new 68,500-seat Levi’s Stadium, the future

Westfield Valley Fair—Northern Cali-

site of Super Bowl L and, starting with the

fornia’s largest enclosed mall—and the

2014 season, home to the NFL’s San Fran-

upscale European-style shopping and

The early explorers who settled here

cisco 49ers.

dining complex, Santana Row. In Palo Alto

wouldn’t be surprised that the bountiful

Also close by is the bizarre Winchester

you can stroll bustling University Avenue,

area they were drawn to has, centuries later,

Mystery House, open for daily tours. Sarah

take a campus tour of beautiful Stanford

evolved into one of the world’s most fertile

Winchester, heiress to the Winchester rifle

University and shop and dine at adjacent

centers of entrepreneurship, ideas and cre-

fortune, constructed the 160-room Victo-

Stanford Shopping Center.

ativity. They knew it was special.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

“

TThe VValley’s alleyy’s Ans Answer wer to the Smithsonian Smiithsoniann –USA TToday ooday

om ore the C puter Histor l p x yM ee use m o C um

”

1401 N Shoreline Blvd Mountain View California computerhistory.org computerhistory..org

Where Gold Rush Meets Adrenaline Rush cagreatamerica.com

LOS ANGELES COUNTY A place for big dreams, art and reinvention

INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), 19 miles (31 km) from downtown LA DOMESTIC GATEWAYS Long Beach Airport (LGB), 24 miles (38 km) from downtown LA; Burbank Bob Hope Airport (BUR), 16 miles (26 km) from downtown LA TOURISM WEBSITES experiencela.com discoverlosangeles.com lamag.com visitwesthollywood.com lovebeverlyhills.com downtownla.com

BY JACQUELINE YAU

arilyn Monroe once remarked, “People cut themselves off

from their ties of the old life when they come to Los Angeles. They are looking for a place where they can be

free, where they can do things they couldn’t do anywhere else.” As the land of reinvention, Los Angeles County attracts seekers, dreamers, hustlers and wannabe actors/screenwriters/directors. Most come from somewhere else and are looking for something better. A persistent optimism and self-expressiveness permeate the air. Thanks to the Beach Boys harmonizing about California girls, beach party movies of the ’60s and TV shows like Baywatch, many people

POPULATION 9.96 million

think of LA as palm trees, endless beaches and bikini-clad women. But LA is far more complex. It’s a mashup of the old and new, from cuisines to culture to ideas. The county has become an epicenter of contemporary art as LA philanthropists pour money into new museums and galleries, and it’s home to a vibrant global street art community.

The Nation’s Largest County LOS ANGELES COUNTY

As the most populous county in the nation, with almost 10 million residents, Los Angeles County comprises 88 cities with more than 100 languages spoken within its 4,752 square miles. The county is larger than the states of Rhode Island and Delaware.

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KONSTANTIN SUTYAGIN/STOCKER.COM; OPPOSITE: SANTA MONICA CVB/SONDRA STOCKER

TOP CITIES Los Angeles, West Hollywood, Burbank, Santa Monica, Malibu, Beverly Hills, Pasadena, Venice

The entertainment industry is an

exclusive seaside community, has some

integral part of the local economy. Annu-

of the most beautiful beaches in the area.

ally, the industry contributes $47 billion

To the north of the city of LA, hikers and

to LA County. For decades, the name Hol-

mountain climbers can explore trails in

lywood has been synonymous with the

the Santa Monica Mountains. To the east,

movie business, but today most studios

the San Gabriel Mountains rise up to

have moved into neighboring suburbs

more than 10,000 feet above sea level.

MUST

SEE, DO

such as Burbank and Culver City.

City & Town

County aren’t even cities but rather dis-

Los Angeles, the second largest city in the

skateboarders, body builders, street basketball

tricts or neighborhoods within Los

nation, dominates the county. Writer

Angeles, such as Hollywood, Silver Lake

Dorothy Parker once quipped, “Los

and Venice. In contrast, Beverly Hills,

Angeles is 72 suburbs in search of a city.”

Public Art Walls featuring graffiti art on the sand,

home to the most expensive residences

Now, well over 100 neighborhoods in LA

west of the bike path between Windward Street

in the world, and West Hollywood, a

form a rich cultural stew. Meander around

and Market Street.

diverse mélange of gays, Russians and

downtown LA’s Chinatown, Little Tokyo,

musicians, are cities but completely sur-

the Art and Fashion Districts, the Latino

› venicebeach.com › veniceartwalls.com

rounded by the city of Los Angeles.

enclaves around Echo Park, Hollywood’s

Laurel Canyon, Little Armenia, Thai Town

the summer, socialize with locals under the stars in

or Melrose District where hipsters shop.

this natural, open amphitheater. Pack a picnic and

Some of the better-known areas in LA

Seventy miles of beaches run along LA County’s southwest border. Malibu, an

Venice Boardwalk Hang out with surfers,

players, buskers, fortune-tellers and artists at the Venice boardwalk on Ocean Front Walk, a 1.5-mile pedestrian-only promenade. Don’t miss the Venice

Picnic at the Hollywood Bowl During

listen to world-class jazz, classical, Broadway and world music featuring the Los Angeles Philharmonic, the Hollywood Bowl Orchestra and many top artists.

› hollywoodbowl.com

TCL Chinese Theatres Long sought after

as “the venue” for movie premieres, TCL Chinese Theatres has been a landmark in Hollywood for more than 75 years. Compare your hand and foot prints to those memorialized in cement by stars including Charlie Chaplin, Shirley Temple, Cary Grant, Marilyn Monroe, Sidney Poitier, George Clooney, Daniel Radcliffe and Emma Watson.

› tclchinesetheatres.com

Getty Museums in LA and Malibu

Prepare to be as awestruck by the views as by the treasures within the museums. The Getty Center in Los Angeles houses mostly European and American art, whereas the Getty Villa in Malibu focuses on arts and cultures of ancient Greece, Rome and Etruria.

› getty.edu/visit

Original Farmers Market at Third

and Fairfax in Los Angeles Get lost in the SANTA MONICA’S MUSCLE BEACH is a place for fitness activities of all kinds, above; downtown Los Angeles at night, opposite.

labyrinth of ethnic food stalls, produce stands, specialty shops and restaurants in this historic market, open since 1934. It sits next to CBS Television City and is open seven days a week.

› farmersmarketla.com

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Hollywood

The Great Outdoors

start the day in downward dog at Bryan

Conceived originally as an outdoor bill-

Despite its car culture rap, LA County offers

Kest’s Power Yoga studio in Santa Monica.

board promoting a housing development

lots of outdoor activities. Rent a bike along

Go shopping at Fred Segal, an LA institu-

called “Hollywoodland” in 1923, the Holly-

the Santa Monica Pier and ride down the

tion known for cult beauty and makeup

wood sign sits on the south side of Mount

path that parallels the ocean, through

brands. Need an outfit for an awards

Lee and Griffith Park—long a symbol that

Venice and on to Marina del Rey before

show? Head over to Decades on Melrose

this is a place where dreams can come true.

doubling back. Pack a picnic lunch and

Avenue, a couture vintage store where

The first movie studio, the Nestor Motion

hike Echo Mountain in Altadena or the

many stylists choose red-carpet gowns for

Picture Company, opened in the fall of 1911

Arroyo Seco trail system in the San Gabriel

their star clients.

When in LA, do as the celebs do and

in Hollywood on the northwest corner of

Mountains. Sign up for rock-climbing

Hungry? Eat at The Ivy, a Beverly Hills

Sunset Boulevard and Gower Street. It was

instruction, or take a surfing lesson from

institution known for its casual chic

absorbed by the Universal Film Manufac-

one of the many surfing centers in Santa

atmosphere and the steady flow of celebri-

turing Company, which later became

Monica. Or lounge around on the sand or

ties lunching there. Or chow down on a

Universal Studios. By the 1920s, 80 percent

join an impromptu beach volleyball game.

Chili dog at Pink’s in Hollywood. Watch an

of the world’s films were shot in California.

Explore the county’s many and varied

LA Lakers basketball game at the Staples

Learn more about Tinsel Town’s history,

beaches, from the iconic to the little

Center and see stars on the court and in the

and experience its memorabilia at The Hol-

known but bring a sweater. In the summer,

stands. End the day sipping a cocktail at

lywood Museum. Or participate in the

moist marine air is pulled inland and

Chateau Marmont on Sunset Boulevard in

Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sci-

forms a misty cover till it burns off by the

West Hollywood, where celebrities meet

ences events and get swept up in the

afternoon. Start in Malibu and show your

their agents and studio execs.

pre-Oscar buzz.

stuff at the iconic “Surfrider Beach” at

DRIVE

» TOUR MULHOLLAND DRIVE offers spectacular views of the HOLLYWOOD BOWL, the LA BASIN and

SAN FERNANDO VALLEY. It’s about 24 miles from the 405 freeway to Hwy 101 with overlooks all along the way. Or, drive in a loop from HOLLYWOOD. Starting at the KODAK THEATER, home of the Academy Awards, go west on HOLLYWOOD BLVD. in Los Angeles till it ends. Turn right on LAUREL CANYON BLVD. and at the top, turn left on Mulholland Drive. Stop at the NANCY HOOVER POHL OVERLOOK and enjoy a great view of the “Valley.” Return to Mulholland Drive, going eastbound, past Laurel Canyon Road until you see the the panoramic views of downtown LA, the Hollywood sign, Griffith Observatory and the Hollywood Bowl Amphitheater. Continue east until you reach the bottom of Mulholland Drive. Turn right on Woodrow Wilson and make an immediate right onto CAHUENGA WAVE ROLLS ASHORE at Paradise Cove in Malibu, above.

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BLVD., heading south back to Hollywood.

BART EVERETT/SHUTTERSTOCK

HOLLYWOOD BOWL OVERLOOK on your right. Park and walk up to see

UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD is fun for the whole family, below.

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2014 THE HOLLYWOOD REEL INDEPENDENT FILM FESTIVAL Screens new feature films, documentaries, shorts and videos by emerging filmmakers who possess an independent spirit and create innovative work outside the studio system. Feb 1-12 at New Beverly Cinema in Hollywood. hollywoodreelindependentfilmfestival.com FESTIVAL OF BOOKS Meet hundreds of literary lights and browse the booths at one of the largest book festivals in the country. The Los Angeles Times Festival of Books celebrates its 18th year. April 12-13 at USC events.latimes.com/festivalofbooks HERO COMPLEX FILM FESTIVAL The Hero Complex Film Festival brings together scifi, comic book and fantasy film fans to watch their favorites on the silver screen and hear from those behind some of the biggest hits. In May at TCL Chinese Theatres at Hollywood & Highland in Hollywood. events.latimes.com/herocomplex/film-festival LA STREET FOOD FESTIVAL Follow your nose to the fifth annual fest celebrating food trucks and their delicious fare, from tacos to beignets to gumbo. Whether you’re looking for a gourmet treat or a simple repast, you’ll find something that satisfies. In the summer at the Rose Bowl in Pasadena. Check website for details. lastreetfoodfest.com 626 NIGHT MARKET Inspired by the bustling Asian night markets, this evening bazaar will spice up your senses with more than 150 food vendors (tempting your taste buds with skewers of beef, spiraled fried potatoes, stinky tofu and mango shave ice), performers and retail booths. Entering its third year, this Asian-food-themed festival is held in the summer in Santa Anita Park in Arcadia. Check website for details. 626nightmarket.com SUNSET STRIP MUSIC FESTIVAL In its seventh year, this three-day rock music club crawl and street fest pays homage to the Strip’s musical heritage in West Hollywood. Music lovers of every stripe from metal, punk, indie, pop to hip-hop will find something that appeals. In August in West Hollywood. sunsetstripmusicfestival.com

INSIDER’S

THE ABBOT KINNEY FESTIVAL Founded in 1984, this eco-conscious artisan and food festival attracts many to this bohemian-chic area in Venice. Located on a one-mile stretch on Abbot Kinney Blvd., from Venice Blvd. to Main Street. Sep. 28 in Venice. abbotkinney.org

Near Santa Monica Pier is a

Malibu Lagoon State Beach and explore

during the Ice Age at the Page Museum at

local favorite. Beefy firemen,

tide pools and caves at Leo Carrillo State

the Rancho La Brea Tar Pits. Or if the kids

celebrities, moms, seniors and

Park. Perhaps watch filming in progress at

are tired of trying to spot stars on the

more run up and down two

Malibu’s Point Dume State Beach, often

ground, take them to the Griffith Observa-

different sets of stairs (one con-

featured in movies such as the Iron Man

tory. Featured in many movies including

crete—narrower with more

series (2008-2013), and it appeared in the

Rebel Without a Cause (1955), the observa-

switchbacks—and one wooden)

last scene of Planet of the Apes (1968). Or

tory is set on the southern slope of Mount

that are called the SANTA

look out for California gray whales during

Hollywood in Griffith Park, with a view of

MONICA STAIRS. Descending

their migration from December to mid-

the Hollywood sign and greater LA below.

provides for a gorgeous view of

April. Next, wind your way down through

In addition to visiting the exhibits and

the ocean and ascending allows

Topanga Beach and stop over for a volley-

events held Tuesday through Sunday at the

for window-shopping for expen-

ball game at Will Rogers State Beach in

Samuel Oschin Planetarium and Leonard

sive homes on the hills. These

Pacific Palisades. Then hop over to Venice

Nimoy Event Horizon Theater, go enjoy the

steep stairs provide a great cardio

and the Strand on Manhattan Beach to

monthly, free public star parties held at the

workout in less than 200 steps.

people-watch.

Observatory from 2:00 p.m. to 9:45 p.m.

The stairs are located just east of

Budding astronomers and their families

4th Street on Adelaide Drive.

Family Fun

are encouraged to try out different tele-

facebook.com/santamonicastairs

Check out fossils of saber-toothed cats and

scopes and talk to amateur astronomers

mammoths that roamed the LA Basin

about the sun, moon and planets.

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UNIVERSAL STUDIOS

» TIP

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WEST HOLLYWOOD A place to indulge your senses and let loose

BY JACQUELINE YAU

SUNSET BOULEVARD at night, above; the Carthay Circle Theatre was one of the most famous movie palaces of Hollywood’s Golden Age, below; Sunset Strip music festival, opposite.

KNOWN FOR ITS live-and-let-live atti-

singer-songwriters like Randy Newman,

tude since the late 19th century, West

Neil Diamond and Elton John, who per-

Hollywood (WeHo to the locals) has always

formed his first U.S. show there in 1970.

been a little looser than its neighbors. This

And Whiskey a Go Go served as a rock incu-

central Los Angeles area, formerly an unin-

bator, hosting early performances of The

corporated stretch known as “Sherman”

Byrds, Buffalo Springfield, Blondie, Guns N’

during Prohibition, was loosely regulated

Roses and Red Hot Chili Peppers, and gave

and out of reach of the L.A. Police Depart-

The Doors their start as the house band.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

developers, mafia money and celebrities.

Creative City

Speakeasies, nightclubs and casinos prolif-

West Hollywood is a densely packed 1.9

erated along the Sunset Strip where glam,

square miles, a key-shaped city within a

glitz and grit rubbed shoulders. Marilyn

city, straddling the iconic Sunset Boule-

Monroe had her first date with baseball

vard and Santa Monica Boulevard, part of

Hall of Famer Joe DiMaggio at the Rainbow

the historic Route 66. Today, this cosmo-

Bar & Grill, right across the street from the

politan and self-styled “creative city” is

iconic music venue, The Roxy Theatre—the

where music, art, fashion and design inter-

birthplace of many a rock legend.

sect. A mix of Spanish Colonial Revival and

The decadent era of the 1920s and ’30s

Art Deco buildings, designer flagship

gave way to the counterculture movement

stores, furniture showrooms, art galleries,

in the ’60s, bringing to the area musicians,

restaurants and clubs vie for attention.

seekers, publishers, promoters and hip-

Music lovers, entertainers, fashionistas,

pies, fueling a Renaissance in music clubs

glitterati

that are now part of rock ’n’ roll lore and

indulge their senses and let loose here.

and

people-watchers

alike

landmarks including Troubadour and

West Hollywood is home to a vibrant gay

Whisky a Go Go. The Troubadour cultivated

and lesbian community and the largest

SCOTT R. SMITH. TOP: GERRY BOUGHAN/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: JOSHUA BARASH

ment—an ideal place for opportunists,

Russian community in the U.S. outside of

Monica Boulevard and see where locals eat

New York. And the city hosts a number of

and shop. Grab a sandwich at Mendocino

must-see annual events such as Halloween

Farms, sangria at Café D’Étoile or coffee at

Carnaval, when nearly 500,000 people cel-

Mo Cafe. Don’t miss walking across the

ebrate in the streets; Sunset Strip Music

rainbow-colored crosswalks at the inter-

Festival, a three-day rock music club crawl

section of San Vicente and Santa Monica

and street fest in late summer, covering

Boulevard, a reflection of West Holly-

metal, punk, indie, pop and hip-hop; and in

wood’s inclusiveness.

June, the CSW Pride Festival, one of the

Next, head over to Sunset Boulevard and

largest gay pride celebrations in the country.

visit Book Soup, an independent and beloved local bookstore known for its

Get Pampered, Shop, Eat & Rock Out

celebrity readings and teetering towers of books on music, art and film.

To prepare yourself for a packed day in

As the evening progresses, enjoy the

West Hollywood, visit a first-class spa like

pulse-pounding nightlife of the Strip and

The Gendarmerie or Voda. Then enjoy the

stir it up at House of Blues, the Viper Room

finest culinary creations at one of the Top

or The Roxy. Or, if still energized for more

Chef-owned eateries such as Michael Volt-

nightlife, go south to Santa Monica Boule-

aggio’s “new American-eclectic” Ink or Elia

vard to the popular gay clubs like Revolver,

Aboumrad’s Gorge, a charcuterie house

Fiesta Cantina and Micky’s.

and wine bar.

Finally, rest your feet and lounge at one

Now fortified, walk around the West

of the many A-list hotels such as the Sunset

Hollywood Design District, bounded by

Tower, an elegant Art Deco building known

Melrose Avenue, Robertson Boulevard and

for its city views and famous former resi-

Beverly Boulevard. Anchored by the Pacific

dents including Howard Hughes, Elizabeth

Design Center, this area is a shopping

Taylor and Frank Sinatra; or the Mondrian

mecca for interiors and top fashions such

known for its Skybar—an open-air and

as Balenciaga, Christian Louboutin and

ivy-covered pavilion, seemingly perched

Rag & Bone. Next, head over to Santa

above the city.

» LIVE IT UP! Tourism Websites weho.org visitwesthollywood.com facebook.com/ artbeatwesthollywood

Events visitwesthollywood.com/ halloween-carnaval sunsetstripmusicfestival.com weho.org/pride lapride.org

Spa, Food & Fashion thegendarmerie.com vodaspa.com mvink.com gorgela.com westhollywood designdistrict.com pacificdesigncenter.com mendocinofarms.com cafedetoile.net mocafela.com booksoup.com

Nightlife thesunsetstrip.com theroxy.com troubadour.com whiskyagogo.com houseofblues.com/venues/ clubvenues/losangeles viperroom.com revolverweho.com fiestacantina.net mickys.com sunsettowerhotel.com morganshotelgroup.com/ mondrian/mondrianlos-angeles/eat-drink/ skybar

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101

SAN DIEGO COUNTY Fun in the sun and a whole lot more

BY MARIBETH MELLIN

INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY San Diego International Airport (SAN), also known as Lindbergh Field, is conveniently located on the edge of downtown TOURISM WEBSITES sandiego.org lajollabythesea.com POPULATION 3 million

ear-perfect weather and an upbeat attitude are San Diego’s

main attributes, but there’s far more to the nation’s eighthlargest city. Some call it Silicon Valley South, thanks to the

many science and research facilities headquartered here. Others say it’s the sports capital of the USA. Think about it—where else can you surf and ski in the same day? San Diego is home to some of the nation’s loveliest beaches, finest universities and happiest humans, making it a magnet for visitors who come for vacation and stay for life. There’s a home for everyone, from metro-hip condos to backcountry horse ranches. Once nearly deserted at night, downtown San Diego has evolved into an exciting center city with several neighborhoods and endless attractions. Its Gaslamp Quarter, Little Italy and East Village are packed with restaurants, clubs and shops. The Embarcadero along San Diego Bay passes by the Maritime Museum with its iconic Star of India’s tall sails to the sweeping rooftop of the San Diego Convention Center (a proposed major expansion is under review). Cruise ships berth at the foot of Broadway, the main artery into downtown, and passengers flying to the San Diego International Airport pass over

SAN DIEGO COUNTY

high-rise business towers as they land at the northern edge of downtown. Hotels of every description and hip-quotient are scattered throughout the city’s center, making it one of the most desirable places to stay while exploring the county.

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JUSTASC/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: DANCESTROKES/SHUTTERSTOCK

TOP CITIES San Diego, Coronado, Chula Vista, La Jolla, Del Mar, Encinitas, Solana Beach, Carlsbad, Oceanside, Escondido, El Cajon, Julian, Borrego Springs

A Bridge to Coronado

and sand running past quiet lagoons and

The arcing San Diego-Coronado Bridge

pristine beaches to the southern part of

connects downtown to Coronado. Often

the county. Ferries cross the bay between

referred to as an island, the genteel city

downtown and Coronado as well, giving

with an active Navy base actually sits on

travelers a chance to enjoy downtown’s

a peninsula attached to the mainland by

urban delights, but sleep by one of the

the Silver Strand, a narrow strip of road

world’s loveliest beaches.

MUST

SEE, DO

Mission Bay Park Half water and half land, the nation’s largest man-made aquatic park includes 27 miles of recreational pathways plus multiple playgrounds and picnic areas and is the best place around for jet-skiing, waterskiing, and kayaking. › sandiego.gov/park-and-recreation/parks/ regional/missionbay/facilities.shtml

Embarcadero Downtown’s wide bayside promenade takes you past ferries, cruise ships, historic vessels and a decommissioned aircraft carrier. › portofsandiego.org/embarcadero-marina-park-north.html

San Diego Zoo Known for its endangered animals (and its irresistible Giant Pandas), the zoo easily requires a full day. Allow time for the fabulous shops. › sandiegozoo.org

Balboa Park The largest urban cultural park in the United States, this rambling park encompasses museums, theaters, artists’ studios and gardens. › balboapark.org PANORAMIC VIEW of the San Diego-Coronado Bridge, above; Balboa Park’s water fountain, below right; surfers in Oceanside, opposite.

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2014

La Jolla This posh Mediterranean-style village by the sea is among the California coast’s classiest communities with a rugged coastline, abundant gourmet restaurants and ritzy galleries and shops. › www.lajollabythesea.com

GASLAMP QUARTER MARDI GRAS Said to be the country’s second largest. March 14, Downtown San Diego gaslamp.org ART WALK @ LITTLE ITALY April 26-27, Little Italy artwalksandiego.org ROCK ’N’ ROLL MARATHON June 1, Central San Diego runrocknroll.competitor.com/san-diego SAN DIEGO COUNTY FAIR June 7-July 6, Del Mar Fairgrounds sdfair.com THOROUGHBRED HORSERACING July 16-Sep. 3, Nov. 5-Dec. 7, Del Mar dmtc.com SAN DIEGO LGBT PRIDE PARADE, RALLY AND FESTIVAL July 18-20, Hillcrest and Balboa Park sdpride.org COMIC-CON July 24-27, Downtown San Diego comic-con.org BALBOA PARK DECEMBER NIGHTS Holiday celebrations. Dec. 6-7 balboapark.org

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103

CARLSBAD FLOWER FIELDS, below; La Jolla Shores in La Jolla, right; Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo statue and panoramic view of San Diego, opposite.

INSIDER’S

» TIP

Dogs are de rigueur in San Diego, where owners carry minimutts into stores, and malls and restaurants supply water bowls and treats beside their front and towns, including CHULA

Balboa Park

staggering housing prices), a series of small

Balboa Park, the city’s cultural heart, covers

communities line the coast north of La

parks where owners gather to

1,200 acres on hills and canyons just east

Jolla’s Torrey Pines State Park.

chat while their pets cavort

of downtown and is home to the justifiably

Dozens of cities and communities dot

happily. OCEAN BEACH and

renowned San Diego Zoo, more than a

the canyons and mesas between the coast

CORONADO have designated

dozen museums and The Old Globe,

and a series of mountain ridges to the east.

beaches where dogs can race

winner of multiple Tony awards. Prepara-

Amid the residential neighborhoods,

around in the sand and sea, and

tions for the yearlong 2015 celebration of

including some of the nation’s wealthiest

dogs are allowed on most

the park’s centennial are under way.

enclaves, are championship golf courses,

Gourmet restaurants and gorgeous Victo-

polo fields, wineries, breweries, casinos

rian mansions line quiet streets in nearby

and the San Diego Zoo’s Safari Park. The

neighborhoods including Bankers Hill,

Laguna and Cuyamaca mountains and

Hillcrest and Mission Hills.

Cleveland National Forest rise above these

VISTA, ESCONDIDO and CARLSBAD, have dedicated dog

beaches after 6 p.m. MISSION

BAY PARK and BALBOA PARK also have pet areas with plenty of room for running, sniffing and general doggie behavior. Most parks require dogs to be

inland attractions, and beyond the peaks,

leashed as they enter and leave,

Beach Towns, Golf & a Safari Park

highways descend to the Anza-Borrego

and insist owners clean up after

Beach towns line the coastline from the

Desert State Park, still within San Diego

their pets. All rules are usually

border with Mexico (18 miles south of

County’s boundaries.

listed on park signs, and regular

downtown) to Oceanside. Each town has its

Beyond all its outdoor attractions, San

park visitors tend to be vigilant

unique character, from Ocean Beach’s

Diego also has a rich cultural and intellec-

about protecting their pets’

hippie holdover vibe to classy La Jolla’s

tual soul. Writers, artists, musicians and

playgrounds.

Mediterranean village sensibility. Beloved

scientists conjure ideas while surfing the

by surfers and escapists (who can afford

La Jolla Shores or jogging in Mission Bay

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PETER KUNASZ/SHUTTERSTOCK. TOP: DANCESTROKES/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: NATALIA BRATSLAVSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK

doors. Several neighborhoods

Park. The Old Globe and La Jolla Playhouse,

The heart of the action is the historic

tember 2013. The Embarcadero sidewalk

both Tony winners, frequently send plays

Gaslamp Quarter packed with classy night-

beside San Diego Bay runs past a fleet of

to Broadway. Multiple scientific landmarks

clubs and restaurants of every description

vessels including cruise ships, aircraft car-

including the Salk Institute and Scripps

housed in restored 19 -century Victorian,

riers, ferries, historic paddleboats and

Institute of Oceanography are magnets for

Baroque and Frontier buildings. Petco

handsome yachts. Little Italy, a few blocks

some of the world’s brightest minds.

Park, downtown’s exceptional baseball sta-

north of downtown’s core, has undergone

dium (and occasional concert venue), has

a nearly complete transformation from a

City & Town

been the impetus for the burgeoning East

simple Italian community to a desirable

Thanks to prescient developers and deter-

Village neighborhood filled with trendy

urban neighborhood. Fortunately, several

mined preservationists, downtown San

condo complexes, boutiques, cafés and a

venerable pizza parlors, bakeries and bars

Diego has become an exciting, cosmopol-

long-awaited, architecturally stunning

remain amid modernist condo complexes,

itan city with several hip neighborhoods.

Central Library, which opened in Sep-

gourmet restaurants and trendy shops.

DRIVE

» TOUR Seagulls on blue and yellow signposts lead the way to central San Diego’s best vistas along the 59-MILE SCENIC

DRIVE. You can do the trip in a couple of hours, but why hurry? The route conveniently begins downtown at the

SAN DIEGO CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU’S INTERNATIONAL INFORMATION CENTER. Meandering along HARBOR DRIVE, it passes along San Diego Bay to CABRILLO NATIONAL MONUMENT at the tip of Point Loma and on to MISSION BAY, several beach towns and LA JOLLA. Along the way you’ll drive through BALBOA PARK and the GASLAMP

QUARTER—both with multiple tempting distractions. The same can be said for all 26 highlighted stops along the route, including the BIRCH AQUARIUM at Scripps in the hills overlooking La Jolla Shores.

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105

TRAIL RIDING is a popular activity in San Marcos, North County, San Diego.

The whole downtown region throbs

serene areas for putting about in motor-

San Diego’s oldest buildings. Today’s down-

with excitement day and night, and is now

boats. Pine trees shelter campgrounds in

town evolved in a burst of development in

the center of San Diego’s nightlife scene.

the Cuyamaca Mountains and Cleveland

1867, leaving behind the collection of his-

There’s talk of a new football stadium

National Forest. Julian, a classic mountain

toric homes in the vibrant Gaslamp Quarter.

downtown, along with additional water-

town, is a popular spot for lilacs in spring

San Diego’s most impressive Spanish-Colo-

view hotels. The urban core continues

and apple pie in autumn. Beyond the

nial buildings were constructed in Balboa

through

neighborhoods

mountains, the Anza-Borrego Desert State

Park for the 1915-1916 Panama-California

including Bankers Hill and Hillcrest, the

Park provides hiking trails through palm

Exposition; its tiled California Tower has

always-hopping heart of the gay, lesbian

canyons and fields of cacti. It’s possible to

become a treasured landmark and several of

and transgender community.

see all these wonders during a long day’s

the exposition’s ornate buildings house the

drive,

park’s museums.

but

golf

resorts

and

B&Bs

The Great Outdoors

throughout the region offer shelter if you

The Pacific Ocean casts its spell over San

care to commune with nature.

Family Fun With the San Diego Zoo, Safari Park,

Diego. Surfers, swimmers, boaters and anglers all find room to play in and on the

Heritage & Culture

water. Mission Beach has a boardwalk and

Portuguese

Rodríguez

find plenty of excitement. Downtown’s New

Belmont Park’s roller coaster. La Jolla

Cabrillo discovered San Diego Bay in 1542

Children’s Museum is an eco-friendly play-

Shores offers a mile-long beach with areas

but sailed on north, leaving the Kumeyaay

ground for all family members. Its

for kayakers, divers, surfers and swim-

Indians alone in their warm, food-rich

multicultural, bilingual exhibits make

mers. Bright orange Garibaldi and other

home. Today, members of the region’s sev-

learning fun, and the adjacent one-acre park

exotic fish draw snorkelers to La Jolla Cove,

eral tribes are reaping the riches of their

gives kids a place to burn energy. Teens

while harbor seals have taken charge of the

heritage at casinos in San Diego’s East and

enjoy exploring fighter planes and flight

nearby Children’s Pool. Mission Bay Park is

North counties.

simulators at the USS Midway Museum, a

explorer

Legoland and SeaWorld at hand, families Juan

a 4,235-acre panorama of blue water and

Cabrillo’s arrival is now commemorated

1,001-foot-long aircraft carrier berthed at

green lawns with manmade channels lined

at Cabrillo National Monument atop the tip

downtown’s Embarcadero. For inexpensive

with hotels, marinas, several playgrounds

of Point Loma overlooking the bay. Euro-

entertainment, try bicycling at Mission Bay

and miles of bike paths.

pean settlers returned in 1769, building a

and Coronado, fishing off piers in Imperial

East and north of the center city, the

fort and mission church at Presidio Hill, a

Beach and Ocean Beach, stargazing from

landscape changes dramatically. Lakes and

gorgeous swath of lawns above Old Town

Mount Palomar and spotting cactus flowers

reservoirs offer freshwater fishing and

State Historic Park, which contains many of

in the Anza-Borrego Desert.

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JUSTASC/SHUTTERSTOCK

established

WELCOME TO KOALAFORNIA THE NEW AUSTRALIAN OUTBACK. NOW OPEN! sandiegozoo.org/koalafornia

SAN DIEGO ZOO & SAFARI PARK It’s wild! VISITORS GATHER FOR A LOOK at the koalas in the Australian Outback

BY MARIBETH MELLIN

exhibit, above; a ring-tailed lemur at the new Lemur Walk, below.

THERE’S ALWAYS SOMETHING NEW

canyons past state-of-the art enclosures

to explore at the San Diego Zoo, an interna-

for gorillas, elephants and giraffes.

botanical excellence. The three-acre Aus-

Safari Park

tralian Outback Exhibit, which opened in

The zoo’s efforts extend 30 miles beyond its

2013, offers habitats for the zoo’s Queensland

gorgeous Balboa Park setting to the San

koalas, wallabies, wombats and 23 species of

Diego Zoo Safari Park. The park’s ring-tailed

Australian birds including laughing kook-

lemurs have a new home along the Lemur

aburras. The 21 koalas get special attention at

Walk, where these primates native to Mada-

the Queenslander house, where mothers and

gascar socialize, groom and purr as they

babies (called joeys) have special enclosures

roam about freely in the exhibit. The lemurs

and all the marsupials doze up to 22 hours per

occasionally approach guests, who must

day on eucalyptus branches. Like the babies

resist the urge to feed or touch the animals.

in the zoo’s giant panda and California

Cheetahs roam about the park as well,

condor programs, the joeys are carefully nur-

leading their trainers on leashes. The

tured to encourage the healthy continuation

Cheetah Run Safari gives guests a chance to

of the species.

experience the cats’ amazing untethered

In partnership with Australia’s Save the Tas-

speed as the cheetahs dash by on a 300-

manian Devil Program, the San Diego Zoo is

foot-long track while chasing a mechanical

rope bridges, aerial tightropes and zip lines

now home to four endangered Tasmanian

lure.

35 feet off the ground. A Behind-the-Scenes

devils on loan from the Tasmanian govern-

Close-up (but not too close) encounters

Safari lets you venture deeper into the park

ment. The aptly named devils are especially

with herds of giraffes, crashes of rhinos and

to areas not accessible to the general public.

active at night, when their fierce snarls and

flocks of exotic birds are common during

The zoo and park ramp up the fun sea-

high-pitched screams signal a hunt in

the popular Africa Tram Safari, while guests

sonally with special exhibits and activities,

progress (within their enclosure, of course).

soar above the wild beasts on the exhila-

ensuring new experiences to thrill even vis-

Beyond all that, the zoo is a joy to

rating Flightline Safari. The daring Jungle

itors who purchase annual passes and

explore, with its trails winding through

Ropes Safari challenges adventurers with

frequently visit their favorite creatures.

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KEN BOHN/ THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF SAN DIEGO

tionally acclaimed model of zoological and

ORANGE COUNTY Fun, fashionable and fascinating

BY MARIBETH MELLIN

INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY John Wayne/Orange County Airport (SNA), located at the juncture of Costa Mesa, Santa Ana and Newport Beach near I-405 TOURISM WEBSITES visittheoc.com anaheimoc.org travelcostamesa.com destinationirvine.com/visit lagunabeachinfo.com surfcityusa.com visitnewportbeach.com POPULATION 3,010,000

s seen from its many freeways, Orange County looks like a vast

expanse of matching terracotta-tiled rooftops, mirrored office buildings and enormous malls. Behind the facade, the county is compact

yet amazingly diverse. Sure, it’s got Anaheim’s Disneyland, but that’s just a blip on the OC map. Several of Southern California’s most famous beaches with historic missions, art colonies, scenic marinas and legendary surf breaks dot the OC’s 42-mile-long coastline. Shopping options are legendary, with South Coast Plaza, Irvine Spectrum and Fashion Island serving as magnets for tourists as well as locals. Master-planned communities sprawl through the inland areas where thousands of acres of citrus groves once filled the air with the scent of orange blossoms and rugged canyons sheltered coyotes and hawks. Irvine, one of the largest communities, now contains a University of California campus, the Orange County Great Park and several master-planned “villages” housing nearly 150,000 residents. Similar developments large and small, including some of the country’s priciest enclaves, are surrounded by more established neighborhoods and cities. Though it appears to be a jumble of crowded suburbs intersected by jampacked freeways, the OC contains distinctive communities and neighborhoods all hosting festivals, farmers markets and annual events. The county is also

ORANGE COUNTY

filled with cultural attractions and performing arts venues, such as the Orange County Performing Arts Center and the South Coast Repertory. For sports fans, the Los Angeles Angels play at the Angel Stadium of Anaheim and the Anaheim

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RANDY HINES/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: PETER KUNASZ/SHUTTERSTOCK

TOP CITIES Anaheim, Costa Mesa, Fullerton, Garden Grove, Huntington Beach, Irvine, Laguna Beach, Orange, Newport Beach, San Juan Capistrano, Santa Ana

MUST

SEE, DO

Newport Beach This beach community is a classic, with two piers, a boardwalk, an amusement park, a yacht-filled harbor and the Wedge—one of the biggest surf spots in SoCal. › visitnewportbeach.com

South Coast Plaza Far more than a shopping mall, this sprawling center encompasses a 21-screen movie theater complex, including an IMAX theater, comedy club, 108-foot-tall Giant Wheel visible for miles, carousel with gorgeous antique-design animals and countless gardens, fountains and courtyards. And yes, there are stores and restaurants galore. › southcoastplaza.com

Mission San Juan Capistrano This beautifully preserved, 18th-century mission covers ten acres filled with gardens, fountains and adobe buildings in the center of a scenic town famous for the swallows that return every spring. › missionsjc.com

SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO MISSION, above; Huntington Beach pier at sunset, opposite.

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2014

Disneyland Resort Walt Disney’s 1955 amusement park has completed a five-year expansion of its Disney California Adventure Park, adding a much-anticipated 12-acre Cars Land recreation of Radiator Springs from the Disney Pixar movie Cars and a re-creation of Los Angeles in the 1920s in its Buena Vista Street entrance. Of course, the resort also includes the original and everchanging Disneyland, Downtown Disney’s wide array of restaurants and clubs and the acclaimed Grand Californian Hotel. › disneyland.disney.go.com

DANA POINT WHALE FESTIVAL March 1-2, 8-9, Dana Point festivalofwhales.org SWALLOWS’ DAY PARADE March 22, San Juan Capistrano swallowsparade.com ORANGE COUNTY MARATHON May 4, Newport Beach ocmarathon.com

Laguna Beach Laguna began as a small artists’ colony in the early 1900s and has retained its devotion to the arts with festivals, galleries, a scenic seaside park and abundant public art. › lagunabeachinfo.com

HUNTINGTON BEACH 4TH OF JULY PARADE July 4, Huntington Beach hb4thofjuly.org PAGEANT OF THE MASTERS July 7-Aug. 30, Laguna Beach foapom.com

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111

DRIVE

» TOUR

Ducks hockey team speeds over the ice at Anaheim’s Honda Center, which also hosts concerts with the Rolling Stones, Bruce Springsteen, The Who and other major

Highway 1 offers the most

acts. More than 40 championship golf

scenic drive following the

courses and a year-round temperate cli-

coastline from DANA

POINT to LONG BEACH, a drive best attempted on weekdays between rush hours. Stop in the popular towns of LAGUNA BEACH,

NEWPORT BEACH or

mate keep golfers happy. Hotel and day spas help the OC’s beautiful people maintain their tanned and buff bodies, and everywhere you look you’ll see people jogging, walking, biking and thoroughly enjoying their SoCal lifestyle.

HUNTINGTON BEACH for a taste of the Southern

City & Town

California beach scene.

Orange County encompasses 34 cities and several master-planned communities but lacks a distinctive downtown. Disneyland makes Anaheim the most famous, but other cities offer interesting experiences. History buffs enjoy San Juan Capistrano’s

CHRISTIAN DE ARAUJO/SHUTTERSTOCK

MEXICAN DANCERS in traditional costume on stage at the Orange County Fair in Costa Mesa, below.

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NOODLES. NIGHTLIFE. NORDSTROM. Find it all and more at Fashion Island and Irvine Spectrum Center, two of Southern California’s most stunning outdoor shopping and dining destinations. Located within minutes of each other, in beautiful Orange County, the two centers offer a combined total of 300 unique shops, designer boutiques, restaurants, cinemas and entertainment venues. OC Stylish Savings offers, personal shoppers and visitor services available.

www.ShopFashionIsland.com

NORDSTROM TRUE FOOD KITCHEN

TOMMY BAHAMA

JONATHAN ADLER CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN

MACYS FOREVER 21

BLOOMINGDALES

BCBG MAX AZRIA

TRINA TURK

NEIMAN MARCUS ELIE TAHARI KATE SPADE

MAX STUDIO CUCINA ENOTECA

www.ShopIrvineSpectrumCenter.com

SURFER at Laguna Beach, right.

mission, Yorba Linda’s Nixon Presidential Library and restored Victorian homes in Santa Ana and Orange. Shoppers head to glam malls in Costa Mesa and Newport Beach, while Huntington Beach has a vibrant downtown beside the sea.

The Great Outdoors Orange County is packed with natural wonders. Its 42 miles of prime SoCal coast-

Family Fun

line contain famed surf spots (Huntington

Disneyland and Knott’s Berry Farm make

Beach, the Wedge at Newport Beach), yacht

Orange County an ideal family vacation

harbors (Newport Beach, Dana Point),

destination, and there are far more places

Crystal Cove State Park’s protected under-

to explore. Kids and parents get a thrill out

water reserve and wilderness, and several

of Sky Zone Anaheim’s indoor trampolines

wetlands reserves filled with birds. Inland,

and more than 100 hands-on exhibits and

wild canyons and parks are filled with end-

4D theater at Santa Ana’s Discovery Science

less hiking and biking trails. In active OC,

Center, while the sharks at Long Beach’s

exercise options are always close at hand.

aquarium offer plenty of thrills.

INSIDER’S

» TIP

Orange County is a culinary paradise for those who love ethnic food. About one-third of the county’s population is of Latino descent and 18 percent have Asian roots. India and Samoa also have significant representation, along with Italy, France, Greece and other nations. All come together in August for Irvine’s OC FOODIE

FEST, where gourmands gather around dozens of gourmet food trucks. Nearly every ethnic group has an annual festival somewhere in Orange County, and vendors selling everything from crepes to pho satisfy cravings at weekly farmers markets in Costa Mesa, Huntington Beach, Tustin

out orangecounty.net for a list of markets and visittheoc.com/things-to-do/ best/cultures-festivals-ethniccuisine for more ethnic info.

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SEBASTIEN BUREL/SHUTTERSTOCK

and other communities. Check

I N O RA N G E COU NTY Fly into John Wayne Airport â&#x20AC;&#x201C; your Gateway to Southern California

Facebook.com/johnwayneairport Twitter.com/johnwayneair ocair.com/TGCA

NEWPORT BEACH Quiet, elegant, sophisticated and relaxing

SAILING AT NEWPORT BEACH, above; Pelican Hill Golf Club, below.

BOTH A CLASSIC SOCAL BEACH town

from Newport Beach, efficient freeways lead

and an affluent Orange County enclave,

straight to the coast and the Newport Beach

Newport Beach melds a laid-back barefoot

Yacht Club and several marinas await all

vibe with sleek sophistication. Pros and

manner of seaworthy vessels.

amateurs revere the Wedge, a famed surf

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break crashing on the shores of Balboa

Leave the Rat Race Behind

Peninsula within view of handsome yachts

Visitors escape from their hectic daily

gliding through Newport Harbor. Kids

lifestyles on hiking and biking trails that

screech with delight from atop the Ferris

etch the natural wild lands along bird-

wheel at the seaside Balboa Fun Zone, where

filled estuaries on the Back Bay Loop Trail.

ferries depart for the exclusive boutiques on

Kayaks, paddleboards and jet skis skim

Balboa Island. Repeat visitors, and there are

across the water along Newport Beachâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 10

a lot of them, feel their spirits lift each time

miles of coastline. At Crystal Cove State

they arrive and long to return when they

Park, horseback riding trails overlook pris-

leave. Fortunately, this sunny hideaway is

tine beaches edging an underwater marine

easy to reach by air, land and sea. Orange

park, where divers swim among swaying

Countyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s John Wayne Airport is just minutes

anemones and bright orange Garibaldi. On

THE PELICAN HILL GC. TOP: GEORGE KAMPER. OPPOSITE: ANDY TEMPLETON; JASON DEWEY

BY MARIBETH MELLIN

A MAN AND HIS DOG take a break from their ride, left; shopping at Fashion Island, below.

shore, romance flourishes for guests in the historic Crystal Cove beach cottages built as a seaside colony in the 1930s and ’40s. Luxurious resorts claim prime ocean views along the coast. At The Resort at Pelican Hill, golfers try to concentrate on their swings while taking in endless vistas of blue sky and sea on one of the world’s most famous courses. Other hotels along the coast and inland offer a wide range of amenities, from kids clubs to lavish spas. Those adjacent to the area’s superb shopping

malls

provide

complimentary

shuttles, savings books and the occasional gift card to spark shopping sprees. Fashionistas browse the latest styles at kate spade and Trina Turk boutiques at Fashion Island and search for treasures in the highend consignment shops in Corona Del Mar. Newport Beach’s abundant opportunities for shopping, dining and just plain fun are always close at hand. Fine dining restaurants and waterfront

cream on a stick rolled in chocolate and

cafés feature a wide variety of cuisines,

covered with a wide range of toppings.

from the gourmet tandoori specialties at

Fans are said to roam the island sampling

the acclaimed, refined Tamarind of

various versions before choosing their

London (whose parent, Tamarind of May-

memorable favorite Newport Beach treat.

fair in London, carries a coveted Michelin

With so many ways to revive their spirits,

star) to the enduringly popular clamor and

revitalize their bodies and reconnect with

crab claws at The Crab Cooker. Then there’s

loved ones, visitors tend to return again

the irresistible Balboa Bar, vanilla ice

and again.

STAY, » SHOP, DINE, SPLURGE! Newport Beach Tourism Information visitnewportbeach.com

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EXPERIENCE WORLD-CLASS SHOPPING, DINING AND PERFORMING ARTS,

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA STYLE. 250 Boutiques | 30 Restaurants | 4 Performing Arts Centers

@southcoastplaza

SAKS FIFTH AVENUE, BLOOMINGDALE’S, NORDSTROM, MACY’S

SAN DIEGO FWY (405) AT BRISTOL ST., COSTA MESA, CA 800.782.8888 southcoastplaza.com

MONTEREY BAY & BIG SUR The true laid-back California

BY JILL K. ROBINSON TOP CITIES Santa Cruz, Monterey, Carmel, Pacific Grove, Salinas

TOURISM WEBSITES santacruzca.org seemonterey.com www.ci.salinas.ca.us POPULATION 700,000

tretching south of one of the largest urban areas in the state—the

San Francisco Bay Area—the coastal region from Santa Cruz through Big Sur is the perfect place to drop the daily stress and

adopt an appreciation of the great outdoors and a laid-back lifestyle. With views that rival the rest of California, this region is where many Californians go to chill out. The two biggest population centers of the region are Santa Cruz and the Monterey Peninsula. In historic Monterey, small-town Pacific Grove and fashionable artist retreat Carmel-by-the-Sea, there are beautiful beaches, ample performing and fine arts venues, outdoor pursuits, stylish shops, epicurean delights and an inland region known for wine and agriculture. Much of the same can be said of funky Santa Cruz, but away from the redwoods, the university town resembles a beachside playground, with its historic boardwalk and many surf spots. The grand Big Sur coastline inspired artist Francis McComas to claim that the area was the “greatest meeting of land and sea,” and the wild coast perched on the edge of the continent has lured artists and fans of the great outdoors to enjoy its remoteness as well as its rich restaurant choices—

MONTEREY BAY & BIG SUR

from Nepenthe to the Big Sur Bakery and Restaurant. On the other side of the Santa Lucia Range lie the otherworldly spires and crags of Pinnacles National Park, an extinct volcano on a long voyage north on the edge of

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ROBERT BOHRER/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: KEN WOLTER/SHUTTERSTOCK

INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY San Francisco International Airport (SFO), 62 miles (100 km) from Santa Cruz; 101 miles (163 km) from Monterey

the San Andreas Fault. Both regions are

City & Town

havens for hikers, bikers, climbers,

Downtown Santa Cruz is between the

campers and birdwatchers.

city’s vibrant beach attractions and the

Wine lovers won’t have much chance

mountains, where redwood groves

to miss Napa and Sonoma, with a wealth

embrace the University of California at

of quality vineyards in this region. From

Santa Cruz. Monterey’s Fisherman’s

Carmel Valley to the Monterey River

Wharf is just steps from the city’s historic

Road, there are more than enough award-

buildings that date from the 18th and 19th

winning wines to go around.

centuries—before California was part of

With such rich and varied geography,

the United States. Made famous by John

it’s a blessing that the wonders of Mon-

Steinbeck’s eponymous novel, Cannery

terey Bay and Big Sur are laid wide open

Row has morphed from a fishing center

for residents and visitors to appreciate

to a bustling street with shops and ocean-

them. Whether your preference is a

view restaurants. Steinbeck’s hometown,

charming urban escape, camping under

Salinas, is a working-class agricultural

the stars, fresh regional cuisine, world-

city, known as the “Salad Bowl of the

famous wines, getting active outdoors or

World.” Carmel, a hedonist retreat born as

a leisurely beachcombing stroll—all can

an artist village, is home to stylish shops,

be found here, and nobody’s rushing you.

exquisite dining and top-notch art.

MUST

SEE, DO

Historic Fun Ride two National Historic Landmarks, the Giant Dipper and the Looff Carousel, at the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk. › beachboardwalk.com

California Condors Get a close-up view of soaring California condors from the High Peaks trail of Pinnacles National Park. › nps.gov/pinn

Monterey’s Historic District Find Old Monterey’s adobes and gardens from the Spanish and Mexican eras, scattered between Fisherman’s Wharf and modern buildings. › seemonterey.com/monterey-adobes_list

Dead Central Get a colorful look at exhibits from the Grateful Dead Archive, on display at the University of California Santa Cruz McHenry Library. › library.ucsc.edu/grateful-dead-archive/about

Wild Coast Cruise Highway 1 along the majestic Big Sur coast, where the sky touches the sea. › bigsurcalifornia.org

INSIDER’S

» TIP

The best views of some spectacular surf moves are from the cliffs overlooking Steamer Lane, near THE SANTA CRUZ

SURFING MUSEUM. Grab a spot by the railing and watch topnotch surfers get some sweet rides, and then head on in to the FISHING from the historic Santa Cruz Municipal Wharf, above; seascape along Highway 1, opposite.

museum to see the best in Santa Cruz surfing history. santacruzsurfingmuseum.org

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SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2014 AT&T PEBBLE BEACH NATIONAL PRO-AM Feb. 3-9, Pebble Beach attpbgolf.com STEINBECK’S BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION Feb. 26, Salinas steinbeck.org JAZZ BASH BY THE BAY March 7-9, Monterey dixieland-monterey.com SANTA CRUZ KAYAK SURF FESTIVAL March 28-30, Santa Cruz asudoit.com PEBBLE BEACH FOOD & WINE April 10-13, Pebble Beach pebblebeachfoodandwine.com STEINBECK FESTIVAL May 2-4, Salinas steinbeck.org CARMEL ART FESTIVAL May 15-18, Carmel carmelartfestival.org CARMEL BACH FESTIVAL July 19-Aug. 2, Carmel bachfestival.org FEAST OF LANTERNS July 23-27, Pacific Grove feast-of-lanterns.org PEBBLE BEACH CONCOURS D’ELEGANCE Aug. 17, Pebble Beach pebblebeachconcours.net CAPITOLA BEGONIA FESTIVAL Aug. 29-Sep. 1, Capitola begoniafestival.com MONTEREY JAZZ FESTIVAL Sep. 19-21, Monterey montereyjazzfestival.org BUTTERFLY PARADE Oct. 4, Pacific Grove seemonterey.com/regions/pacific-grove FIRST NIGHT MONTEREY Dec. 31, Monterey firstnightmonterey.org

JORG HACKEMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK. TOP AND OPPOSITE: ROBERT CICCHETTI/SHUTTERSTOCK

BIXBY BRIDGE, Highway 1 in Big Sur, above; jellyfish in the Monterey Bay Aquarium, Monterey, below.

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The Great Outdoors While well-known urban areas dot this region, there’s more than enough wide-open space for fans of the outdoors. Take a whalewatching boat tour in Monterey Bay, where you can spot migrating gray, humpback and blue whales. Seventeen-Mile Drive in Pebble Beach winds through forest and along the Pacific coastline as it skirts exclusive golf courses and resorts. The eerie-looking spires and monoliths of Pinnacles National Park lure climbers as well as hikers interested in the explosion of colorful spring wildflowers and soaring California condors. In Big Sur, where rocky cliffs drop into the Pacific Ocean and cypress trees twist in the wind, nature lovers can walk along the beach or hike deep into redwood forests, where waterfalls spring to life.

Heritage & Culture The inland region is dominated by agriculture—from the Salinas salad bowl to Carmel Valley wines—while the coast is home to fishermen, artists, surfers and a booming tourism industry. Don’t think the model of

PIGEON POINT LIGHTHOUSE, Big Sur coast, above.

the easy-going Californian only exists on Orange County beaches. Whether it’s a chef from Carmel, an artist from Santa Cruz or a farmer from Soledad—all take time to enjoy

DRIVE

» TOUR

Monterey Bay and Big Sur.

Family Fun

Trace a beautiful path along the California coast by starting on

No matter your age, you can’t go wrong at the

HIGHWAY 1 and drive south, from

Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, with rides and

Santa Cruz through the

entertainment for everyone. The Monterey

MONTEREY PENINSULA. Once you

Peninsula is a wonderland for families, with

pass CARMEL, you enter the 90-

historic sites, accessible beaches, Dennis the

mile stretch of California coastline

Menace Park, the Monterey Bay Aquarium and

between Carmel and SAN SIMEON

a wealth of outdoor activities. South through

called BIG SUR, shoehorned

Big Sur, camping options abound along the

between the ocean and the Santa

wild coast, and the variety of hiking paths can

Lucia Mountains. The road twists

lead you to a pink-sand beach or a seaside

and turns along the wild coast, so

waterfall. Inland, get a look at California’s pre-

take your time and be sure to stop

statehood past and follow the California

and enjoy the view along the way.

Missions Trail along Highway 101.

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GILROY More than a whiff of garlic

GILROY GARDENS, top; pyro chefs at Gourmet Alley during the Gilroy Garlic Festival, above.

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IN SOUTHERNMOST Santa Clara County,

Even if you’re not visiting in July,

the city of Gilroy adds a bit of spice to the

Gilroy’s restaurants don’t skimp on garlic,

outdoors with its vast garlic crop and wide

whether in house specials or beloved fes-

variety of ways to play. Known as the Garlic

tival dishes. By all means, share the allium

Capital of the World, Gilroy treats its resi-

with friends and family at home with a

dents and visitors to the aroma from this

souvenir of a garlicky food specialty item

pungent plant nearly 12 months of the year.

or gift basket.

The peak of the bulb’s popularity comes

Gilroy is not all about the garlic,

at the end of July with the Gilroy Garlic Fes-

however. Spend some time in the six

tival, a three-day celebration of food and

gardens of the Gilroy Gardens family

drink, music, arts and family entertain-

theme park—landscaped with camellias,

ment—where festival-goers consume up to

conifers, topiaries, semi-tropical flowers

two tons of garlic each year. Right in the

and water elements—or take an amuse-

center of the action is the festival’s Gourmet

ment park ride in a garlic bulb, a giant

Alley, where “pyro chefs” create tasty dishes

banana or mushroom swing. Take the

over open flames, like sizzling scampi and

garden tour a step farther with a self-

calamari. But that’s not where the culinary

guided meander through the colorful

creations end. Annual favorites like pepper

fields of nearby Syngenta Flowers. And

steak sandwiches, stuffed mushrooms and

even locals stop regularly at Casa de

garlic bread lure crowds to wait in line until

Fruta, once merely a roadside fruit stand

they have enough servings to make a first

that has now morphed into a farm-stand

date end early.

destination for all ages.

GILROY WELCOME CENTER

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

THOUSANDS OF TINY FISH. ONE BIG BALL OF

AWESOME.

Two-day tickets are available for the price of one at local Monterey hotels. The Aquarium also sells CityPASS for access to all of San Franciscoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top attractions.

Share the Exhilaration. Share the Love.

montereybayaquarium.org/love

CENTRAL VALLEY California’s fertile heartland

BY JILL K. ROBINSON TOP CITIES Modesto, Fresno, Bakersfield, Davis, Stockton, Fairfield, Merced, Visalia, Madera, Vacaville INTERNATIONAL GATEWAYS Sacramento International Airport (SMF), 80 miles (129 km) from Modesto, 172 miles (277 km) from Fresno San Francisco International Airport (SFO), 94 miles (151 km) from Modesto, 186 miles (299 km) from Fresno Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), 118 miles (190 km) from Bakersfield TOURISM WEBSITE visitcentralvalley.com

he rich green strip wedged between the Sierra Nevada range and

the coastal mountains in the center of California is considered by some to be the greatest garden in the world. The 400-mile-long

fertile pocket of land is filled with farms, orchards and vineyards, and supplies as much as 45 percent of the food eaten in the United States. The Central Valley contains thousands of acres of land under cultivation and small farming communities that seem to have been frozen in time. In the larger cities (Modesto, Fresno and Bakersfield) there’s still a small-town friendliness that encourages visitors to slow down and look beyond the farmland. From the quiet, northernmost towns of

POPULATION 4,858,000

southern end of the valley, it’s easy to feel at home and see what some call “the Other California.” Travelers using Interstate 5 to get through the Central Valley may believe the agricultural region is nothing more than a sleepy little farming area, but it also has a wealth of spectacular scenery, opportunities for outdoor recreation, highlights of California history and funky roadside diners. The best way to discover the area is by slowing down and taking Highway 99, which feels more like a back road. Cities and towns cluster

CENTRAL VALLEY

along the route, giving you a chance to pull off and explore at your leisure. Two river valleys—the Sacramento and San Joaquin—dominate the majority of the region, and the area waterways serve as opportunities for

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KEN WOLTER/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: STOCKTON CVB

Orland, Yuba City and Davis to Visalia, Tulare and Maricopa at the

MUST

SPECIAL

SEE,

» EVENTS 2014

ROGUE PERFORMANCE FESTIVAL Feb 27-March 8, Fresno roguefestival.com MARCH MEET March 6-9, Bakersfield famosoraceway.com BRUBECK FESTIVAL March 26-29, Stockton pacific.edu/Brubeck-Institute.html PICNIC DAY April 12, Davis picnicday.ucdavis.edu STOCKTON ASPARAGUS FESTIVAL April 25-27, Stockton asparagusfest.com

Fresh off the Farm Reap the benefits of Fresno farms’ bounty at the Vineyard Farmer’s Market, held every Wednesday and Saturday, year-round. › vineyardfarmersmarket.com

ZINFEST WINE FESTIVAL May 17, Lodi zinfest.com BASQUE FESTIVAL May 25, Bakersfield kcbasqueclub.com AMERICAN GRAFFITI CAR SHOW & FESTIVAL June 6-8, Modesto americangraffitifestival.com VILLAGE FEST Sep. 6, Bakersfield bakersfieldvillagefest.com FESTIVAL OF ROSES Sep. 6, Wasco ci.wasco.ca.us BIG FRESNO FAIR Oct. 1-12, Fresno fresnofair.com SANDHILL CRANE FESTIVAL Oct. 31-Nov. 2, Lodi cranefestival.com

sport (fishing, rafting, waterskiing) and

The most notable souvenir from a

bird migration rest stops, as well as a

trip through the Central Valley comes

necessary element of farming. In the hot

from any of the unbeatable roadside

summer months, the area’s rivers and

produce stands. Be sure to enjoy them

lakes help residents and tourists alike

before you return home, because the

cool off, and a shady swimming hole is

edible treasure of the region is best sam-

an ideal spot to spend an afternoon.

pled fresh.

Middle Mountains Hike the Sutter Buttes, remnants of an ancient volcano and known as the “world’s smallest mountain range.” › middlemountain.org

Wine Tasting Pay a visit to winery tasting rooms in Lodi, producing more than 40 percent of the state’s premium Zinfandel. › lodiwine.com

Expansive Wetlands Explore Grizzly Island in the Suisun Marsh, which makes up more than 10 percent of California’s remaining natural wetlands. › suisunwildlife.org/grizzly.html

Basque in the Desert Get to know Basque cuisine in Bakersfield, where there’s a rich history of transplanted sheepherders. › noriegahotel.com

INSIDER’S THE STOCKTON ARENA seats 10,000 and overlooks the waterfront in downtown Stockton, below; lettuce ready for harvest in Salinas Valley, opposite.

» TIP

Catch a baseball game at Banner Island, home of the STOCKTON

PORTS. An offshoot of the team credited with inspiring Ernest Lawrence Thayer’s famous “Casey at the Bat” poem, the Ports got their name because Stockton was California’s only inland port.

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DRIVE

» TOUR It may be tempting to cover

City & Town

the Central Valley by zooming

Bicycles outnumber cars in college-town

along on Interstate 5, but instead, take the slower

HIGHWAY 99—often referred to as “California’s Main Street,” and the very same road the fictional Joad family traveled in The Grapes of Wrath. Start in oil-town

Davis, with more bikes per capita than any U.S. city. Hotrods and Modesto were the stars of American Graffiti—and auto fans still flock to the valley city. Fresno’s architectural history includes brick warehouses along the Santa Fe railroad tracks and the 1928 Pantages Theatre.

BAKERSFIELD and head north toward FRESNO, MERCED and

The Great Outdoors

MODESTO. As you pass from

A sprawling web of rivers twists through the

the San Joaquin Valley into

Central Valley—from the Sacramento to the

the Sacramento River Delta,

San Joaquin to the Feather. The best place to

take a jog over to Interstate 5 to pass to the west of Sacramento and

enjoy river life is in the Sacramento Delta,

into Yolo, Colusa and Glenn counties at the north end of the great

with lush wetlands and vast orchards. The

Central Valley.

Sutter Buttes—considered the world’s smallest mountain range—rise above the flat valley at its northernmost point.

DAVIS TRAIN STATION, below.

Heritage & Culture Agriculture has drawn a diverse group of people to the Central Valley over the years, including migrant workers from Latin America, Dust Bowl-era farmers and entertaining country music masters. Visitors are always welcome to join regional celebrations, from Basque festivals to harvest days to Portuguese festas—which include bloodless bullfights.

Family Fun find plenty to do in the Central Valley. Escape the summer heat by tubing down the Sacramento River, discover the amazing Forestiere Underground Gardens in Fresno, wander through the delta town of Locke, or gawk at restored military aircraft at the Castle Air Museum.

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YOLO COUNTY VISITORS BUREAU.

Families who love wide-open spaces will

CENTRAL VALLEY CITIES BY JILL K. ROBINSON

IT MAY SUPPLY as much as 45 percent of

of deep-fried asparagus, asparagus burritos

the table food served in the United States,

and even asparagus ice cream.

but the Central Valley isn’t only about

Davis, a city long known for its progres-

farms. While there’s plenty to please the

sive approach and long-term commitment

palate, cities of the Central Valley also offer

to its bike-friendly infrastructure, is an

Gold Rush history, access to a variety of

ideal place to tour by bicycle. It’s also home

outdoor pursuits and flat-out family fun.

to the United States Bicycling Hall of Fame,

Slow the car, turn off the highway and

which recognizes competitors and contrib-

sample these central cities.

utors to the sport. But don’t cycle out of town before catching a performance at the

Inland Waterfront and Cycle Friendly

Mondavi Center. Whether your favorite is

The inland port city of Stockton was once

symphony orchestras—they’re all there.

modern dance troupes, jazz ensembles or

a major supply point for Gold Rush miners.

BOB HOPE THEATRE, Stockton, above; Mondavi Center, Davis, top.

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Today, its more than 1,000 miles of delta

Plenty Between National Parks

waterways make it ideal for recreation—

Nestled in the foothills below the majestic

from fishing to water skiing. Even a stroll

Sierra Nevada, Visalia is the gateway to

along the waterfront is enough to soak in

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.

the sights. Foodies drawn to the wealth of

The city’s charm and strong community

produce from the Central Valley’s “greatest

welcome visitors year-round for an expe-

garden in the world” can enjoy the fresh

rience filled with live entertainment,

taste of spring at the Asparagus Festival.

stunning art, rich history and restaurants

Wander along Asparagus Alley for samples

that feature farm-to-fork flavors. Savor the

STOCKTON CVB. YOLO COUNTY VISITORS BUREAU. OPPOSITE: YOLO COUNTY VISITORS BUREAU

Farms are only the beginning

city’s fresh cuisine at one of many side-

Old School Fun in a Modern Setting

walk cafés, take a stroll in the quaint

Vacaville’s pastoral setting, vibrant down-

downtown district and tour the richest

town and world-class shopping make it a

agricultural region in the United States.

perfect getaway or home base for your Cen-

Just up the road, take a short detour off

tral Valley California vacation experience.

famous California Highway 99 to taste

Set against the rolling hills just west of

delicious wines along the Madera Wine

Sacramento Valley, Vacaville is a special

Trail. Visitors will enjoy award-winning

place to live, work, play and visit. The city’s

wines at more than a dozen wineries that

central location and affordable lodging are

dot the Madera County countryside. From

only a short drive from such major cities

here, travelers are nearly at Yosemite

as San Francisco, Oakland and Sacra-

National Park’s doorstep.

mento. However, if you’re looking for some great local fun, you’ll love the his-

Underground and Country Sound

toric downtown area, scenic parks,

An underground garden may seem an

performing arts venues and the legendary

impossibility,

the

Nut Tree, which has been a staple of

Forestiere Underground Gardens are filled

but

Fresno,

Northern California road trips and

with grottos of lush trees and grapevines.

overnight stays for decades.

After your subterranean journey, head to

EAT, PLAY,

» STROLL, RELAX. Central Valley Tourism Association visitcentralvalley.com

aboveground U-pick farms from May through September to get your fill of berries, cherries and plums—or, just cut to the chase and get a fresh pie at a farmstand stop. Fresno is also a gateway to all three national parks, making it easy for visitors to sample the best of the valley before heading into the mountains. In Bakersfield, kick up your heels and dance with the cowboys at Buck Owens’ Crystal Palace, one of the places where you’ll get to hear the famed “Bakersfield Sound,” developed right here in the 1950s.

DAVIS FARMERS MARKET is busy with bikes, great food and friendly people, top and right.

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CENTRAL COAST Miles of beaches without the crowds

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

TOP CITIES Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, Paso Robles, Morro Bay, Cambria, Ventura, Lompoc, Solvang INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), 98 miles (158 km) from Santa Barbara; 192 miles (309 km) from San Luis Obispo

ike a shell necklace, a string of small beach towns lines the coast

south of Big Sur to Santa Barbara. While Southern California gets prime beach town attention, it’s the Central Coast region that has

it all without trying to pack too many bodies into each sandy square foot. If you’re looking for a place to escape the hustle and bustle, chill out like a local, get some fun and sun, and sample some of the best cuisine and wine in the state, pack your bags and head to the Central Coast. The biggest population center is the Santa Barbara area, with its white Spanish-style buildings and red-tiled roofs. In Santa Barbara, there are vast beaches, plenty of fine arts venues, bright boutiques, outdoor adventures, culinary tastes and an inland region (the Santa Ynez Valley, featured in the movie Sideways) known for wine and Santa Maria barbecue. POPULATION 1,542,000

Visitors can tour hilltop Hearst Castle, see hulking elephant seals at Piedras Blancas, relax in the sleepy beach towns of Cayucos and Morro Bay, or find some action in college-town San Luis Obispo. Fresh seafood often tastes best with a view of the ocean, and the old-fashioned piers of Avila Beach and Pismo Beach are ideal spots to take that meal break. Ventura’s Mission San Buenaventura is the last of the California missions

CENTRAL COAST

founded by Junípero Serra. The oceanside town is also a jumping-off point for adventures in Channel Islands National Park, called “California’s Galapagos,” with tide pools, kelp forests and unique flora and fauna species.

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BART EVERETT/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: S.BORISOV/SHUTTERSTOCK

TOURISM WEBSITES sanluisobispocounty.com santabarbaraca.com travelpaso.com morrobay.org cambriachamber.org ventura-usa.com lompoc.com solvangusa.com

Even though the Central Coast region’s

perches on pine-forested hills above the

main highlight is indeed, its coast, the

ocean, and has galleries and antique

varied geography and moderate climate

shops. Laid-back Cayucos is an old-school

ensure that there are plenty of treats for

beach retreat with a surf break and fishing

visitors to find. Whether your preference

pier near the main drag. Morro Bay’s land-

is digging for clams, surfing the perfect

mark, an ancient volcanic peak emerging

wave, strolling Mediterranean-style village

from the ocean floor, stands at the

streets, sampling fresh regional cuisine

entrance to a beautiful estuary.

and world-famous wines, or lazing on the

Tucked between the ocean and the Santa

beach, it’s all right here on the Central

Ynez Mountains, Santa Barbara is often

Coast—and there’s enough for everyone.

called the “American Riviera” because of its

MUST

SEE, DO

Spanish History Get a glimpse into Santa Barbara’s origins with a visit to Mission Santa Barbara—Spain’s 10th attempt to colonize the region. › santabarbaramission.org

Mediterranean climate and red-tiled build-

City & Town

ings. Head inland to artist enclave Ojai to

South of Big Sur, the sweep of coastline is

unwind and take in the “pink moment”

dotted with small beach towns. Cambria

sunsets—the color of cotton candy.

Pink Moment Look to the east for the setting sun’s reflection on the bluffs of the Topatopa Mountains in Ojai for a brilliant pink sunset. › ci.ojai.ca.us

Castle on a Hill Visit Hearst Castle, the over-the-top estate that William Randolph Hearst called “the ranch.” › hearstcastle.org

Volcanic Sister Walk out to the base of Morro Rock, one of a series of volcanic plugs known as the Nine Sisters of San Luis Obispo County, in Morro Bay. › morrobay.org

Wine and Olive Oil Tasting Get some great grape and olive taste (not together!) from Paso Robles’ best wineries and tasting rooms. › pasowine.com

INSIDER’S

» TIP

Another quirky architectural obsession of the region, NITT

WITT RIDGE in Cambria is a castle-like creation of driftwood, abalone shells and a variety of funky treasures. Check it out for ideas for your own found-object crafts at MISSION SANTA BARBARA, above; rugged point in Montano de Oro State Park, Morro Bay, opposite.

home, or just for the fun of it.

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135

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2014

The Great Outdoors Even though Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo are larger than the rest of the beach towns, there’s enough space throughout the

SANTA BARBARA INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Jan. 30-Feb. 9, Santa Barbara sbiff.org SAN LUIS OBISPO INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL March 5-9, San Luis Obispo slofilmfest.org

Central Coast region to find ample breathing room. Hike to the top of Bishop Peak, the tallest of the Nine Sisters, a chain of volcanic peaks. Take advantage of some sweet surf

TASTE OF SOLVANG March 12-16, Solvang solvangusa.com OJAI STORYTELLING FESTIVAL May 1-4, Ojai ojaistoryfest.org PASO ROBLES WINE FESTIVAL May 16-18, Paso Robles pasowine.com/events/winefestival.php

spots and catch the perfect wave. Head out from Santa Barbara on a whale-watching tour to see some of the largest mammals in the Pacific Ocean. On the Carrizo Plain, considered the

CALIFORNIA STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL May 17-18, Oxnard strawberry-fest.org I MADONNARI May 24-26, Santa Barbara imadonnarifestival.com LOS OLIVOS JAZZ & OLIVE FESTIVAL June 7, Los Olivos losolivosrotary.org/olivefest.html

largest single native grassland in the state, it’s possible to see surface fractures of the San Andreas Fault. The Los Padres National Forest stretches across the scenic Coast and Transverse ranges, and offers a

SUMMER SOLSTICE CELEBRATION June 20-22, Santa Barbara solsticeparade.com SAN BENITO COUNTY SADDLE HORSE SHOW & RODEO June 27-29, Hollister sanbenitocountyrodeo.com

wealth of opportunities for fishing, hiking, camping and bicycling. Kayak among tide pools and kelp forests where sea otters live in Morro Bay, or just amble

CALIFORNIA WINE FESTIVAL July 17-19, Santa Barbara californiawinefestival.com

along miles of scenic beaches and dig your toes in the sand.

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LAURA KATH. RIGHT: JEREMY BALL/SOLVANGUSA.COM. OPPOSITE: JOLANDA/SHUTTERSTOCK; SPIRIT OF AMERICA/SHUTTERSTOCK

SADDLING UP for a ride at Rancho Oso Guest Ranch & Stables, Santa Ynez Valley, left; you can get Arne’s famous Aebleskiver Danish pastry at Solvang Restaurant in downtown Solvang, above.

Heritage & Culture Many place names on the Central Coast remain from Native American tribes, as well

DRIVE

» TOUR

as Spanish and Mexican settlers. The California missions and other well-preserved

Get more than a glimpse of

buildings still remain from pre-statehood Cal-

the Central Coast by driving

ifornia. The Central Coast’s inland region has

south of Big Sur on

a wealth of land for agriculture—from wine to

Highway 1 past the small

olives—but farmers here are just as comfort-

beach towns of CAMBRIA,

able taking a quick trip to the wide, sandy

MORRO BAY and PISMO

beaches during breaks from the harvest. Even

BEACH. Be sure to stop

though Santa Barbara is the big city in the area,

regularly to sample local

it has a relaxing vibe that would suffocate in a

delicacies, whether caught

second in downtown Los Angeles.

from oceanside piers or made by hand in beachtown bakeries. The highway

Family Fun The Central Coast is rich with adventure for families, including plenty of beaches and outdoor space, historic sites and water activities.

View

underwater

life

semi-submersible tour in Morro Bay. Dis-

cuts inland for a short jog after San Luis Obispo, but pops back to the beach before approaching the Santa Ynez Mountains and posh SANTA BARBARA.

cover how the ocean has shaped the history of the Central Coast at the Santa Barbara Maritime Museum. Go camping in the Channel Islands or Los Padres National Forest. Even picking your own berries at a local farm is far more fun when you can smell the ocean air.

CALIFORNIA GOLDEN POPPIES on Figueroa Mountain near Santa Ynez and Los Olivos, right; the Neptune Pool at Hearst Castle, San Simeon, below.

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NORTH COAST Settle in to this lush land of redwood forests, fishing harbors and Victorian villages

BY JOHN FLINN

GATEWAY The Arcata-Eureka Airport (EKA), 16 miles (26 km) from downtown Eureka, has service from San Francisco and other hubs, but no international flights. TOURISM WEBSITES northcoastca.com redwoods.info visitmendocino.com POPULATION 782,000

ntil you’ve seen one up close, it’s hard to grasp just how neck-

craningly tall a coastal redwood is. Remember the gargantuan Saturn V, the 35-story-high rocket that sent astro-

nauts to the moon? The largest Sequoia sempervirens would tower over

that, topping out at 379 feet. These 3,000-year-old arboreal titans—nature’s loftiest skyscrapers— grow in only one place in the world: a narrow strip of fog-shrouded mountains along California’s wild and relatively unvisited North Coast.

The Redwood Highway Old-growth redwoods are preserved in a chain of parks strung along Highway 101, known in these parts as the Redwood Highway. In southern Humboldt County, Humboldt Redwoods State Park straddles the scenic drive known as the Avenue of the Giants. In northern Humboldt and Del Norte counties, a cluster of parks—Redwood National Park and Prairie Creek Redwoods, Del Norte Coast Redwoods and Jedediah Smith Redwoods state parks—form one contiguous redwood reserve. The sounds of chainsaws and buzzing sawmills that once domi-

NORTH COAST

nated the North Coast are rapidly fading as the lumber industry winds down. In former mill towns such as Fort Bragg, tourism is replacing timber as innovative galleries, restaurants and brew-pubs spring to life.

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JOHN BIRCHARD PHOTOGRAPHY. OPPOSITE: PMPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK; TOM REICHNER/SHUTTERSTOCK

TOP CITIES Mendocino, Eureka, Crescent City, Fort Bragg, Garberville, Arcata, Ukiah, Cloverdale, Ferndale

MUST

SEE, DO

HUMBOLDT REDWOODS STATE Park, right; Roosevelt Elk at Gold Bluffs Beach, Redwood State Park, below; pelicans in flight below the town of Mendocino, opposite.

Ferry Tales Tour Humboldt Bay aboard the Maraket, the last of a fleet of tiny ferries that once carried mill workers to their jobs. It’s the oldest vessel in continuous service in the country, with the tiniest licensed bar in California. › humboldtbaymaritimemuseum.com

The World’s Your Oyster More than half of all oysters in California come from the chilly gray water of Humboldt Bay. A new boat tour takes you by the oyster beds for some hands-on harvesting, followed by an oyster barbecue on a driftwood-strewn beach. › humboldtbayoystertours.com

Forest Tracks Built in 1885 to haul redwood logs from the tangled backcountry to coastal sawmills, the iconic Skunk Train now carries passengers on the 40-mile run through redwood groves between Fort Bragg and the inland town of Willits. › skunktrain.com

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2014 KINETIC SCULPTURE RACE Peripatetic artists of genius or possibly borderline insanity gather each Memorial Day weekend to race giant, whimsical, people-powered sculptures from Arcata to Ferndale along a 40-mile course that includes a crossing of Humboldt Bay. Cheating is encouraged. May 24-26 kineticgrandchampionship.com BIGFOOT DAYS The earliest and most persistent sightings of that elusive creature known as Bigfoot have happened around the Siskiyou Mountain town of Willow Creek. Each year on Labor Day weekend, the community fetes its furry friend with Bigfoot Days. Don’t expect to see the big guy himself, but you’ll encounter a number of people who claim to have met him. Aug. 30-31 redwoods.info/showrecord.asp?id=3689 HUMBOLDT BEER WEEK is a county-wide celebration of the vibrant local craft brewing scene. Sep. 27-Oct. 5 humboldtbeerweek.com

Boulevard of Big Trees Some of the most magnificent redwoods on the North Coast are also the easiest to see. At Garberville, turn off Highway 101 onto the Avenue of the Giants, a 31-mile stretch of the old highway that weaves like a slalom course between vertiginous, old-growth redwoods. The route takes you through the heart of Humboldt Redwoods State Park, which is sunnier and drier than redwood parks farther north. › avenueofthegiants.net

Victorian Hamlet Gaily painted Victorian mansions line the streets of Ferndale, an idyllic hamlet on the Eel River delta in southern Humboldt County. Lovingly preserved, they give the town a turn-of-the-last-century look that has proven irresistible to Hollywood. More than a dozen movies have been filmed here. Main Street’s shops keep the Victorian theme going, with old-fashioned mercantiles and even a blacksmith shop. Cradled between two redwood forests, the entire town is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. › victorianferndale.com

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139

Although it’s sometimes called the Redwood

Empire,

the

North

Coast

is more than just tall trees: It’s also salmonfishing boats bobbing in tiny harbors; Roosevelt

elk

bugling

across

misty

meadows; steam trains chuffing through a damp and dripping forest; hole-in-the-wall restaurants serving fish smoked according to traditional Native American recipes; vineyards close enough to the coast to catch the salt spray; an old Russian trading fort; handsome Victorian villages; possible glimpses of the elusive creature known as Bigfoot; wealthy, tie-dyed growers of the region’s largest cash crop, which doctors in California can legally prescribe; and bouts of inspired lunacy such as elaborate sculptures racing across the landscape. For generations, the North Coast was said to be on the far side of the “redwood curtain,” the psychological barrier formed by narrow, tortuous Highway 101, which was little more than a two-lane conduit for

DRIVE

heavily-laden logging trucks. But Cali-

CRESCENT CITY

fornia has spent the last two decades improving the road—straightening curves,

» TOUR

widening it in many places to four lanes— and now the road is an easy drive.

From the GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE, EUREKA

City & Town

at Bodega Bay (yes, that Bodega

Transplanted New Englanders founded the

Bay: Alfred Hitchcock filmed The Birds there), and follow dramatic, winding Highway 1 north past the

HUMBOLDT REDWOODS STATE PARK

town of Mendocino on a rocky bluff above AVENUE OF THE GIANTS LEGGETT

old Russian fort, FORT ROSS, and

the crashing Pacific Ocean, and it still sports a whitewashed Cape Cod look. Once a mill

Sea Ranch, GUALALA, MENDOCINO

town, it went into decay in the 1930s as the

and Fort Bragg before heading

local timber trade waned but was rediscov-

inland to connect with Highway

ered in the 1960s by bohemians and artists.

MENDOCINO

On the shore of Humboldt Bay, Eureka, the

101—“The Redwood Highway”—at

largest town on the North Coast, has also

LEGGETT, site of the DRIVE-THRU TREE PARK. Continuing north on

GUALALA

reversed decades of decline and turned its

the Redwood Highway, you’ll come to HUMBOLDT REDWOODS STATE

PARK and the AVENUE OF THE

waterfront Old Town into an inviting VictoFORT ROSS BODEGA BAY

Crescent City was virtually wiped off the

GIANTS, EUREKA and the cluster of

map by a tsunami in 1964. Rebuilt now, it

redwood parks extending almost to the Oregon border.

rian district of galleries, boutiques and cafés.

sports a smattering of hotels and motels that SAN FRANCISCO

make it a good base for exploring nearby Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

JOHN BIRCHARD PHOTOGRAPHY. OPPOSITE; GARY SAXE/SHUTTERSTOCK

head over to the SONOMA COAST

PT. ARENA LIGHTHOUSE in Mendocino County, left; grape harvest in the Anderson Valley near Philo, Mendocino County, opposite.

INSIDERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

Âť TIP

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just a garage-sized â&#x20AC;&#x153;nanobreweryâ&#x20AC;? in a small

Heritage & Culture

1970s, the North Coast has transitioned to

Native American tribes such as the Yurok

tourism as its mainstay.

and Hoopa lived along the North Coast for centuries before the arrival of fur trap-

Family Fun

persâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;both Russians working their way

Young children might have trouble fully

down from Alaska and American moun-

appreciating the timelessness of an ancient

tain men such as Jedediah Smith coming

redwood tree, but theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll enjoy a gondola

overland. For more than two centuries,

ride through the silent forest canopy and a

resource extractionâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;primarily loggingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;

chance to have their picture taken with

was the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s economic engine. As

four-story-high statues of Paul Bunyan and

dwindling forests and stricter environ-

Babe the Blue Ox. Look for it at Trees of

mental laws took their tolls starting in the

Mystery, near the town of Klamath.

industrial park, but HUMBOLDT

REGENERATION is one of the prime innovators in Humboldt Countyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s craft-brewing scene, making Belgian-style ales from its own organic, Humboldt-grown hops and grains. Drop by for a pint and a chat with owner and brewmaster Jacob Pressley. humboldtregeneration.com

461&34*;& :063 53*1 st trees orldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s talle w e h t Park See dwood National iants , G e e h t f R o of Avenue ounty, Calif. e h t and Humboldt C in only

)6.#0-%5 $06/5:

'SFF 5SBWFM (VJEF ] -PEHJOH 4QFDJBMT ] ] XXX SFEXPPET JOGP

HIGH SIERRA Come explore this epic land of mountains, meadows, forests and streams

BY JOHN FLINN TOP CITIES South Lake Tahoe, Truckee, Tahoe City, Bishop, Mammoth Lakes, Oakhurst, Madera INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Reno-Tahoe International Airport (RNO), 3 miles from Reno, Nevada city center

ohn Muir liked to call it “The Range of Light,” but that wasn’t the

naturalist’s only pet name for his beloved Sierra Nevada: He also called it “God’s mountain mansion” and “The grandest special

temple of nature I was ever permitted to enter.” It’s not just the radiant

POPULATION 600,000

and again. It’s the pristine lakes and rivers, the dramatic hiking and biking trails, the contrast between the green meadows and granite battlements. The Sierra Nevada (Spanish for “snowy mountains”) may be one of the highest and most majestic mountain ranges in North America, but it’s also one of the most accessible and user-friendly. Stretching 400 miles from north to south, and about 70 from east to west, it’s crossed by seven highways—four of them open all year—and encompasses everything from Lake Tahoe—where you might find yourself crowding shoulder-to-shoulder around a boisterous craps table—to remote canyons in Yosemite or Kings Canyon national parks where you can spend a silent and solitary afternoon watching Muir’s favorite bird, the water ouzel, plunge into waterfalls and cascades. In a state with no shortage of superlatives, the region has more than its share: It can boast the world’s oldest tree, the world’s most massive

HIGH SIERRA

tree, the Old West’s largest ghost town, the nation’s highest waterfall and—until Alaska came along and rewrote the record books—the nation’s highest peak.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

RUTHCHOI/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: REBECCA GARRETT/MAMMOTH LAKES TOURISM

light that drew Muir—and continues to draw people—to the Sierra again TOURISM WEBSITES yosemitepark.com visitinglaketahoe.com tahoesouth.com yosemitethisyear.com visitmammoth.com

DRIVE

MUST

» TOUR

SEE, DO

Hiking Half Dome Walking to the top of Yosemite’s Half Dome, a strenuous, all-day journey with almost a mile of vertical elevation gain, has become one of California’s most soughtafter adventures. The last 400 feet are via an airy set of metal cables attached to the rock as handrailings. Permits are required, and advance reservations (via lottery) are essential. › nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/halfdome

Highway 120 is a magical mystery tour through the heart of Yosemite National Park’s exquisite high country. From the handsome old mining town of GROVELAND, follow 120 east into the park (HETCH HETCHY, the fraternal twin of Yosemite Valley that was dammed to provide San Francisco’s water supply, is a short side trip) past the TUOLUMNE GROVE of giant sequoias and up into the rarified alpine world. Pull over at OLMSTEAD

POINT to view HALF DOME from an angle you’ve never seen before. You’ll traverse TUOLUMNE MEADOWS, the jumping-off point for some of Yosemite’s finest hiking trails, and cross 9,943-foot TIOGA PASS before descending three-quarters of a vertical mile to shimmering MONO LAKE.

Biggest Tree Tree-huggers, don’t bother trying to wrap your arms around the General Sherman Tree in Sequoia National Park. With a circumference of 102 feet, the giant sequoia is the largest known tree on the planet. While not quite as tall as its coastal cousins, its staggering girth more than makes up for it. › nps.gov/seki/naturescience/sherman.htm

Long Live Mono Set in a brooding, volcanic, Mordoresque landscape, Mono Lake is one of the most otherworldly sights in California, with spiky tufa towers rising out of an alkaline lake. Explore it by kayak or canoe, or take a guided naturalist walk along the shoreline. › monolake.org › calderakayak.com

The Wild, Wild West Bodie, possibly the Old West’s most notorious mining town, now exists in a state of “arrested decay” on a high, windswept plain northeast of Yosemite. It’s one of America’s most extensive ghost towns. › parks.ca.gov/?page_id=509

On the Lake Take a tour across Lake Tahoe into mesmerizing Emerald Bay aboard an authentic Mississippi River paddlewheeler. They depart several times a day from Zephyr Cove and South Lake Tahoe. › zephyrcove.com/cruises.aspx

THERE’S LOTS OF ROOM to ride around Mammoth Lakes, left; sunset on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, opposite.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

143

CYCLING IS ANOTHER GREAT way to get around Mammoth Lakes, above; a visitor reads about the giant sequoias in Sequoia National Park, left.

stone street: It’s gently sloped on the west side and quite steep on the east, lower in the north and higher in the south. Keep that in mind when choosing a hiking trail: for an easier amble, look to the north and west; for a challenging ascent, head south and east.

City & Town

INSIDER’S

» TIP

Just south of Yosemite, a stretch of the Sierra Nevada is so irresistibly picturesque that they named it the “Ansel Adams Wilderness” in honor of America’s premier landscape photographer. From the gateway town of MAMMOTH

LAKES, it’s also one the range’s most accessible areas. sierrawild.gov/wilderness/ ansel-adams

144 2014

T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

The range is home to three national

enly ski resort, the bustling town of South

parks, 15 state parks, two national monu-

Lake Tahoe, located on the lakeshore and

ments and 20 officially designated

the Nevada border, has seen an injection of

wilderness areas. Hikers get itchy feet at the

energy and interest in recent years, with

mere mention of its celebrated walking

new restaurants, shops and galleries. With

paths: the John Muir Trail; the Tahoe Rim

a large inventory of hotel rooms and a

Trail; the Pacific Crest Trail; the Tahoe-

cluster of hotel-casinos just a few steps

Yosemite Trail. At the drop of winter’s first

over the border, it’s a good bet for inexpen-

snowflake, skiers begin making plans for

sive lodging. In Truckee, a handsome old

the three premier ski resorts on America’s

railroad and lumber town between Donner

West Coast: Squaw Valley (site of the 1960

Pass and Squaw Valley, a collection of Old

Winter Olympics), Heavenly and Mam-

West historic buildings along Commercial

moth Mountain. Streams rushing down the

Row now houses busy restaurants and

range’s sheer east slope into the Owens

bars, some adorned with portraits of gun-

Valley are renowned for their fly fishing.

slingers and desperadoes. Farther south,

Geologically speaking, the mountain

sprawling Bishop sports the Owens Valley’s

range is pretty much one big chunk of granite

most extensive collection of lodging,

tilted like a badly placed brick in a cobble-

dining and resupply outlets.

ROB VAN ESCH/SHUTTERSTOCK. REBECCA GARRETT/MAMMOTH LAKES TOURISM

Now connected by gondola to the Heav-

5 star location. Fabulous views.

Lake Tahoe’s only 5-star luxury lakeside resort.

• Lake Tahoe’s Newest Hotel & Restaurant • 88 Lavish Guestrooms with Fireplaces • Marble Bathrooms with Heated Floors • Full-Service Spa & Fitness Center • Pool, Hot Tub, Sauna & Steamroom • Complimentary Local Shuttle • Jimmy’s Restaurant & Bar

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2014 The Great Outdoors

“LIGHTS ON THE LAKE,” held each Fourth of July at South Lake Tahoe, is the largest synchronized fireworks show west of the Mississippi. July 4 tahoesouth.com

Just a few hours’ drive from San Francisco or Los Angeles, the Sierra Nevada has been California’s outdoor playground almost

With participants such as Michael Jordan, Charles Barkley and John Elway, South Lake Tahoe’s AMERICAN CENTURY GOLF CHAMPIONSHIP has been called the “Super Bowl of Celebrity Sports.” July 15-20 tahoecelebritygolf.com

since the original 49ers arrived. In Yosemite Valley, spectators with telescopes watch the progress of climbers

Yosemite’s BRACEBRIDGE DINNER, held in the landmark Ahwahnee Hotel, is a 3 ½-hour feast of “food and riches without measure, joining voices raised in festive sound.” Dec. 13, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24 and 25 bracebridgedinners.com

inching their way up the impossibly sheer granite walls. Tempted to try it? Sign up for an introductory class at the Yosemite

Heritage & Culture

Mine, a short but steep hike from Tioga

Mountaineering School—or at least treat

Native Americans, pioneer emigrants and

Pass in Yosemite. You’ll find the remains

yourself to a “Go Climb a Rock” T-shirt.

gold miners all left their marks on the

of old miners’ cabins, but exercise care

With some of the most reliably sunny

High Sierra—often literally. At Grinding

around the shafts, several of which remain

summer weather of any major mountain

Rock State Historic Park near the town of

open and unfenced.

range, the High Sierra is a hiker’s paradise,

Twain Harte, Miwok Indians once ground

from easy day walks in the Desolation

acorns on an outcrop of marbleized lime-

Family Fun

Wilderness to challenging, multi-week jour-

stone. The 1,185 mortar holes they left

If the kids aren’t yet ready for full-on

neys through Kings Canyon and Sequoia

behind constitute the largest such collec-

camping, Lake Tahoe has two old-timey

national parks. Skiers have their choice of

tion in North America. In the Hope Valley,

resorts with knotty-pine cabins scattered

world-class venues, from beginner-friendly

just south of Lake Tahoe, you can still see

in the trees near the lakeshore, bike and

Granlibakken to the double-diamond

ruts in the rocks left by the covered

paddle-boat rentals and ice cream parlors.

chutes of Squaw Valley and Heavenly. In

wagons of settlers on the Emigrant Trail.

Camp Richardson is on the west shore,

summer, many of the resorts—particularly

The shafts of thousands of abandoned

near Tahoe City; Zephyr Cove is on the

Northstar and Mammoth—convert their

mines pockmark the High Sierra. One of

south shore, just over the border in Nevada.

lifts and gondolas to carry mountain bikes.

the best places to see one is the Great Sierra

camprichardson.com zephyrcove.com

JOEL ST. MARIE/MAMMOTH LAKES TOURISM

A WINTER VISTA of the Minarets from Mammoth Mountain, below.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

ASTON LAKELAND VILLAGE

South Lake Tahoe, California

Situated on the pristine shores of South Lake Tahoe, Aston Lakeland Village Beach & Mountain Resort is an all-season condominium resort featuring hotel services and amenities in a tranquil lakefront environment. The resort is ideal for the whole family, offering spacious studios and one- to five-bedroom accommodations with fully-equipped kitchens, fireplaces and private balconies. Enjoy convenient amenities such as complimentary WiFi, a private sandy beach with a pier, outdoor heated pools, two hot tubs, a deluxe continental breakfast in the winter, and complimentary shuttle service to Heavenly Mountain Resort and Lake Tahoe casinos, restaurants, shopping and other nearby attractions.

meeting rooms, plus a seasonally available pavilion deck for groups of up to 150 people. Enjoy special group rates, on-site services, complimentary WiFi, and discounts on bookings of 10 rooms or more.

GROUPS & MEETINGS With its breathtaking, inspirational setting and year-round mountain and lake activities, Aston Lakeland Village presents the perfect site for meetings, retreats, seminars, wedding receptions or reunions. The resort offers two

DESTINATION WEDDINGS Nestled on 19 woodland acres fronting a magnificent lake, Aston Lakeland Village is an excellent location to host your perfect destination wedding. With Aston’s “Take Your Honeymoon On Us!” package deal,

book your wedding and accommodations at Aston Lakeland Village in South Lake Tahoe and enjoy a free three-night honeymoon at select properties on Oahu or Maui. Or, host your wedding in Hawaii and spend your honeymoon in Lake Tahoe – the choice is yours. Honeymooners also receive a complimentary amenity or upgrade. Book your dream vacation today at www.AstonLakelandVillage.com or call 866-774-2924.

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5RZdgR bcdQW^b c^ ͹OQa\ c^f]V^\Rb MZZ fWcV Ŭ aR_ZMPR͜ YWcPVR] ̿ QMWZh \MWQ bRaeWPR 4^]cW]R]cMZ OaRMYSMbc QdaW]U bYW bRMb^] EVdccZR c^ PMbW]^b ̿ :RMeR]Zh EYW DRbâc AdcQ^â VRMcRQ _^^Z͜ V^c cdOb͜ bMd]M͜ Ŭ c]Rbb PR]cRa ̿ SdZZ͹bRaeWPR bYW bV^_ BRaSRPc Sâ \RRcW]Ub͜ fRQQW]Ub ̿ SM\WZh aRd]W^]b 2bY MO^dc ^da Kids Ski Free _MPYMUR͟

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MAMMOTH LAKES Super-sized fun for all seasons

BY BILL FINK

Mammoth Lakes Visitor Information visitmammoth.com

and take in the scenery, or enjoy a floating

the Continental United States’ highest

historical tour of Mono Lake. Explore the

point, and only 45 minutes from

wonders of geology at Devils Postpile

Yosemite’s east entrance, the Mammoth

National Monument and gaze at its tow-

Lakes region is an epicenter for outdoor

ering basalt columns, then cool off in the

activities throughout the year.

spray of the hundred-foot-tall Rainbow Falls just downstream. Summer is also fes-

Mammoth Mountain Skiing & more

Summer Fun

tival time, the calendar filled with music

Up in the hills and meadows of the Eastern

events and food and drink gatherings,

mammothmountain.com

Sierra mountain range, hikers and bikers

including the combination of “blues and

can explore the extensive Mammoth Lakes

brews” for 2014’s 19th annual Festival of

Trail System, whether it be for rugged

Beers and Bluesapalooza.

multi-day adventures or a gentle walk ALPINE JEWELS are just a short hike away in Mammoth Lakes, above; attacking the powder on Mammoth Mountain, opposite.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

through a park. Golfers enjoy extra-long

Winter Sports

drives in the high elevations of Sierra Star

As the name suggests, Mammoth Moun-

and Snowcreek Golf Courses. The Mam-

tain ski resort is gigantic, with expansive

moth Lakes area is well known for fishing,

terrain suitable for all levels of skiers, a

so much so, that some local hotels feature

huge terrain park for snowboarders, and

fish-cleaning facilities. Fly fishing in

regular competitions for those who just

streams, and lure-based fishing from boats

want to watch. Tamarack Ski Center and

in lakes gives everyone a chance to try their

the Mammoth Lakes Nordic Trail System

specialty or pick up a new skill. A variety

are destinations for cross-country ski

of trout await your arrival at Convict Lake

enthusiasts. For non-skiers, Mammoth

and other lakes in Mammoth Lakes Basin.

Lakes also connects visitors with dogsled

Or you can just paddle a kayak, canoe or

rides, snowmobiling, snowshoe tours and

stand up paddleboard through the lakes

even snowcat rides to scenic picnic spots.

REBECCA GARRETT/MAMMOTH LAKES TOURISM. OPPOSITE: MAMMOTH MOUNTAIN SKI RESORT

HIKE, FISH, » GOLF, SKI!

TWO HOURS NORTH of Mt. Whitney,

Small kids too can come to enjoy Mammoth’s tubing park, festive winter parades with mascot “Wooly” or a scenic gondola ride. The 2014 ski season welcomes the reopening of June Mountain, a laid-back location for downhill fun. If it’s too cold outside, check out Mammoth’s new “Rock ’n’ Bowl” recreation center with its bowling lanes, golf simulators, restaurants and other activities.

Spring Activities Often considered just a “shoulder season” between skiing and fishing, spring around Mammoth Lakes offers great deals on lodging and activities for those looking for some late-season sunny skiing (Mammoth Mountain often stays open past Memorial Day), or some early golfing and fishing. Some people try for the “spring triathlon” of skiing, biking and golfing in a single day. Spring is also a good time for birding, when visitors can see many of the 300 species of local and migratory birds that have been spotted in the area, including the horde of 50,000 California gulls nesting at Mono Lake each year.

Fall Colors Fall foliage is a treat for the eyes around Mammoth Lakes. Enjoy hiking through the colors in the crisp fall air on the Mammoth Rock Trail or the Heart Lake Trail, or even stay for a couple days amidst the trees at the Sherwin Creek Campground. Go for a drive around winding mountain roads of the June Lake Loop to see the spectacular colors in groves of aspens and cottonwood trees below towering pine forests. You can soar above the colors via hot-air balloon rides and helicopter tours. Or go back in time and join a multi-day horseback ride down from the hills. For a spooky Halloween, or any quiet day, visit the ghost town within Bodie State Park, the abandoned remnants of a gold mining settlement about 60 miles north.

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149

LAKE TAHOE SOUTH SHORE Wilderness and wildness FROM SERENE VIEWS over mirror-flat BY BILL FINK

morning waters of Lake Tahoe and the gentle footfall of hikers on pine needlecovered forest paths, to the jangle of slot machines and the pumping bass of a casino dance club, Lake Tahoe South Shore (what the marketers call Tahoe South) is a destination hosting a unique mix of wilderness and wild-ness, an indoor and outdoor playground with equal measures of altitude and attitude. Visitors can follow their desires to find peace and solitude on back country hikes or ski runs, or dive into a swirling social scene at a packed summer beach, holler at a crowded craps table or slurp microbrews at an après ski bar complete with go-go dancers. It’s dealer’s choice on the South Shore.

Summer Summer activity around the South Shore is understandably focused on the beautiful waters of spectacular Lake Tahoe. Beaches are packed with summer revelers, while the waters are filled with every type of floating vessel imaginable—from kayaks and stand-up paddleboards to small sailboats, fishing cruisers, water-ski boats, sive paddleboats, the Tahoe Queen and Ms. Dixie II that run daily Emerald Bay cruises. For fun out of the water, the South Shore is a hiker’s paradise with journeys ranging from multi-day treks into the Desolation Wilderness and a steep day’s climb up to the A TRANQUIL DAY on Lake Tahoe, above; Brad Paisley performs in Harveys Summer Concert Series, right; hikers take in the grand view from the summit of Mount Tallac, opposite.

awe-inspiring views of Mt. Tallac, to relaxed family strolls in flat meadows or along the waterfront. Cyclists can take advantage of a network of road rides and mountain paths with everything from a scenic roll in the woods to treacherous, teeth-rattling mountain descents. The ambitious can even bike the entire 72-mile circumference of Lake Tahoe. Golfers can check out the lakeside Edgewood Tahoe Golf Course (home of the hugely

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

LAUREN LINDLEY. TOP: CELSO DINIZ/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: RACHID DAHNOUN

luxury cruising vessels and even two mas-

HIKE, PLAY,

» EAT, DANCE!

popular American Century celebrity golf

Tamarack Lodge has an après ski scene with

tournament in July) and several other

pumping music, multiple bars and go-go

Visitor Information

nearby courses.

dancers gyrating to keep themselves (and the

tahoesouth.com skiheavenly.com tahoecelebritygolf.com fs.usda.gov/activity/ltbmu/ recreation/hiking

Heavenly Mountain Resort will be

viewers) warm. Kirkwood, about a 45-minute

opening a much-expanded on-mountain

drive from town, is known for its off-piste ter-

adventure center in 2014 that will include

rain, deep snow and relaxed vibe. Sierra-at-

zip lines, a forest canopy tour and ropes

Tahoe is a medium-sized resort on Highway

courses, as well as a network of hiking

50 between South Lake Tahoe and Sacramento

trails branching off from their gondola

known for being family oriented. A new base

(which is worth a sightseeing ride even if

plaza opened for the 2014 ski season.

level. Outside the casinos, the main strip of town boasts shopping opportunities

you never step off it).

24/7/365

including name-brand boutiques and

Winter

When the day of outdoor activity is done,

quirky local ski shops and crafts stores.

Lake Tahoe South Shore boasts three top-

the second shift of fun is just beginning in

Dining can be anything from sushi to

notch ski resorts: Heavenly, Kirkwood and

Tahoe South. High-rise casinos rock with

burgers and gourmet cuisine, sold every-

Sierra-at-Tahoe. Heavenly is a huge and pop-

the sounds and energy of non-stop gam-

where from small cafés to luxury lakeside

ular mountain, spanning two states, with

bling. Gamers get recharged in an array of

restaurants.

contrasting views of the blue Tahoe waters

restaurants and buffets, as well as at live

Regardless of your choice of food,

and the high-prairie Nevada countryside. The

music and comedy events. Packed bars

activity or season, Lake Tahoe South Shore

Heavenly Gondola drops visitors right into the

and clubs give this indoor playground a

is a spot to satisfy any sort of appetite—

action in the center of the city. Heavenly’s

Vegas feel, albeit at 6200 feet above sea

you’ll only be hungry for another trip.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

151

eenie, meanie, miney…whoa!

Introducing Lake Tahoe Resort Hotel With all things Tahoe to our left, right, front and center, arriving at our new name was pretty much a no-brainer. Finding yourself here in the very near future is even easier yet.

ASTON LAKELAND VILLAGE BEACH & MOUNTAIN RESORT • Deluxe studios to 5-bedroom townhomes all with kitchen, ﬁreplace and daily maid service • Swim in summer and fall at a private sandy beach and pier • Summer kids program • Ski in winter and spring at nearby Heavenly Ski Resort • Seasonal full-service ski shop

Ta h o e R e s o r t H o t e l . c o m

• Complimentary shuttle service to casinos and Heavenly Ski Resort • Outdoor heated pool, 2 hot tubs, sauna and ﬁtness center • Ask about Kids Ski Free package!

800 988 9850

866.774.2924

AstonLakelandVillage.com

Camp Richardson Historic Resort & Marina Ye ear round on the south shore of Lake Taahoe. Lodging, lakeside dining, boating, cross-country skiing.

CampRichardson.com or call 800-544-1801.

FOREST

SERVICE

From the decks of our paddlewheelers, the M.S. Dixie II and the Tahoe Queen, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be mesmerized by the beauty of Tahoeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crystal blue waters and towering peaks â&#x20AC;&#x201D; whether you choose a daytime scenic cruise or a sunset dinner cruise that includes live entertainment and delicious entrĂŠes. These boat tours are a must see on your trip to South Lake Tahoe.

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GOLD COUNTRY California’s dreams took root in the land of the “Mother Lode”

BY JOHN FLINN

INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Sacramento International Airport (SMF), 13 miles (21 km) from the city center

omething caught the eye of carpenter James W. Marshall as he tended

to a sawmill in the Sierra Nevada foothills. Something glittering. The gold nugget that Marshall pulled out in January 1848 altered the his-

tory of not just the American West, but the entire world. It set off a gold rush that drew more than 300,000 would-be prospectors the following year from the eastern U.S., South America, Europe, even China. They were known as

TOURISM WEBSITES discovergold.org visit-eldorado.com

the 49ers. Overnight, the Gold Rush transformed San Francisco from a sleepy port to a rollicking city and persuaded Congress to put California—wrested from

POPULATION 650,000

Mexico by war two years earlier—on the fast track to statehood. Most of the gold was found in a 300-mile belt that extended through the Sierra foothills, from Downieville in the north to Coarsegold in the south. Miners called it the “Mother Lode.” In a state working tirelessly to invent the future, the Gold Country remains the most visible manifestation of its not-so-distant past, with towns sporting wood-plank sidewalks, swinging saloon doors, hitching posts and red-brick buildings. (You’ll quickly discover that the best preserved of these belonged to Wells Fargo and, curiously, the Independent Order of Odd Fellows.) Today you can still pan for gold—it’s often said there’s more left in the

GOLD COUNTRY

ground than the original 49ers ever took out—but you can also raft some of California’s frothiest rivers, explore caverns and sample Chardonnay and Syrah in a number of uncrowded, up-and-coming wineries.

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LARRY HABEGGER. OPPOSITE: RICK COOPER/CREATIVE COMMONS; SCOTT JONES/CREATIVE COMMONS

TOP CITIES Sacramento, Sonora, Placerville, Auburn, Downieville, Sutter Creek, Nevada City, Jackson, Columbia, Murphys, Jamestown, Angels Camp

MUST

SEE, DO

Star Tracks Hollywood’s favorite steam train, at Railtown 1897 State Historic Park near Jamestown, has appeared in everything from “High Noon” to “Petticoat Junction.” You can ride it on weekends from April through October. › railtown1897.com

Going Underground Rappel into the darkness and explore a chamber large enough to hold the Statue of Liberty in Moaning Cavern. › caverntours.com/MoCavRt.htm GIANT SEQUOIAS dwarf hikers in Calaveras Big Trees State Park, opposite; Empire Mine State Historic Park, Grass Valley, above.

DRIVE

» TOUR NAVIGATING A TOUR through the Gold Country couldn't be easier: HIGHWAY 49—named for the original 49ers—traverses the entire region. It stretches nearly 300 miles through the Sierra foothills, from DOWNIEVILLE in

Historic Hotel In the picturesque old mining town of Murphys, the Murphys Historic Hotel has hosted everyone from Mark Twain and Ulysses S. Grant to Black Bart. Look for their signatures in the guest book on display in the lobby. › murphyshotel.com

Bottoms Up Sample the rich, jammy Zinfandels and other wines without the crowds at dozens of wineries in Amador, El Dorado and Calaveras counties. › discovercaliforniawines.com/discover-california/ sierra-foothills

Eureka! Start your own personal Gold Rush as you pan for nuggets at Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park. › parks.ca.gov/?page_id=484

the north to OAKHURST in the south, linking all the Gold Country’s major towns and sights. Allow at least two days for the journey. Start with a mountainbiking excursion in DOWNIEVILLE, poke around the galleries and antique shops of NEVADA CITY and drop by the site where Marshall and Sutter found those first sparkling nuggets in COLOMA. SUTTER

CREEK, with a bounty of inviting B&Bs and restaurants serving the local wine, is a good place to spend the night. On your second day, explore

ANGELS CAMP—perhaps pausing to wager on a frog if it’s jumping season (the third week in May)—try your hand at panning for gold at

COLUMBIA STATE HISTORIC PARK and take a ride on the historic steam train in JAMESTOWN’S RAILTOWN 1897 STATE HISTORIC PARK.

SUTTER’S FORT STATE HISTORIC Park, Sacramento.

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City & Town Sacramento was the terminus of the Transcontinental Railroad—from there, passengers completed their journey to San Francisco by ferry and barge—and the city still plays a vital role as the jumping-off point for exploring the Gold Country. Since the arrival of the 49ers, the small towns of the Gold Country proper have morphed through several distinct stages, from rough-and-tumble boomtowns, to somnolent hamlets, to destinations for biker rallies, to, finally, genteel venues for weekend getaways sporting comfortable B&Bs, sophisticated restaurants, antique stores and nearby wineries. Among the most popular are Sutter Creek, Nevada City and Murphys. The two largest towns of the Sierra foothills—Sonora and Placerville—offer all this, plus a large selection of motels, restaurants and shops in all

INSIDER’S

» TIP

For 50 years now the apple growers east of Placerville have been luring motorists off Highway 50 with the aroma of freshly baked apple pies, fritters, turnovers, strudel and donuts. STATE CAPITOL, Sacramento, above; a school group splashes in Beaver Creek, Calaveras Big Trees State Park, right; staged gunfight at Sacramento Gold Rush Days, opposite.

More than 50 growers participate in APPLE HILL, a celebration of the apple harvest, and of autumn itself, with cider, hay rides, pumpkin patches, hay mazes and other family fun. It runs from Labor Day to Christmas. applehill.com

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LARRY HABEGGER. TOP: FEOKTISTOFF/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: ROBERT COUSE-BAKER/CREATIVE COMMONS

price categories.

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2014 Wager on a jumping frog as Mark Twain’s most beloved story is commemorated each year at the CALAVERAS COUNTY FAIR & JUMPING FROG JUBILEE in Angels Camp. May 15-18 frogtown.org The HANGTOWN HARMONICA CHAMPIONSHIP is the highlight of the Cowboys and Cornbread festival celebrating western living at the El Dorado County Fairgrounds. July 20 cowboysandcornbread.com One weekend each October, during GOLD RUSH LIVE, the town of Coloma goes back in time to Gold Rush days with costumed volunteers in period dress to recreate a traditional mining camp. Oct. 10-13 coloma.com/calendar/coloma-gold-rush-live

The Great Outdoors

northern Sierra, the town of Downieville

From May to mid-October, the American

has become a center for mountain

River is California’s top venue for white-

biking. Local bike shops offer rentals and

water rafting. The river flow is controlled

shuttles on old mining roads and single

by releases from upstream reservoirs, so

tracks from the casual to the technical,

rafters are assured of good conditions.

including a 15-mile ride with a 4,000-

Outfitters offer both half-day and full-day

foot descent. Houseboaters flock to vast,

trips through Class III whitewater,

sprawling Gold Country reservoirs such

ending up at Marshall Gold Discovery

as New Melones Lake, Don Pedro Lake

State Historic Park or Folsom Lake. In the

and Lake McClure.

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SHASTA CASCADE Discover the great outdoors with a mystical mountain, mud pots and more

BY JOHN FLINN

GATEWAY Redding Municipal Airport (RDD) has flights from Los Angeles and San Francisco, and is 9 miles (14 km) from the Redding city center TOURISM WEBSITES visitsiskiyou.org shastacascade.com visitredding.com

“

onely as god, and white as a winter moon,” is how Joaquin Miller, “the poet of the Sierras,” described Mount Shasta. The snow-tipped peak has long held a mysterious attrac-

tion for poets, artists, adventurers and New Age mystics. At least two religions have been founded on the flanks of the mountain, which some believe to be a vortex for spiritual activity, and a race of psychically advanced people named the Lemurians is rumored to live inside. Mount Shasta is the focal point of one of California’s least-populated regions, a land of high-desert tumbleweeds, majestic rivers and

POPULATION 274,000

craggy volcanoes. This is where the West Coast’s two major mountain ranges—the Sierra Nevada and the Cascades—run headlong into each other. Just to the south of Shasta, Mount Lassen, the southernmost of the Cascade peaks, erupted less than a century ago, spewing ash as far as 200 miles away. Today, pots of boiling mud and steam vents smelling of rotten eggs attest that this volcano is far from dormant. To the west rise the Trinity Alps and Marble Mountains, relatively unvisited gems that are popular venues for fly fishing and horseback SHASTA CASCADE

trips. To the north, the Klamath Basin National Wildlife Refuge, which extends into southern Oregon, is part of the Pacific Flyway: In the fall its skies are darkened by more than a million migratory birds.

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CHRISTOPHER BOSWELL/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: LARRY HABEGGER

TOP CITIES Redding, Mount Shasta City, Weaverville, Weed, Chico, Oroville

MUST

SEE, DO

Vision Quest Embark on a guided, day-long vision quest to the sacred springs, portals and other sites that many believe make Mount Shasta a spiritual energy vortex. › shastavortex.com

Downhill Rider Enjoy the thrill of a scenic, adrenaline-filled, downhill mountain-bike run without the uphill pedaling by using the ski lifts at the Mount Shasta Ski Park. › skipark.com SUNSET TROUT FISHING at Manzanita Lake, Lassen Volcanic National Park, above; Highway 97 heading toward Mount Shasta, left.

Sundial Bridge Stroll across the Sundial Bridge, Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava’s now-iconic cantilever pedestrian span across the Sacramento River, the centerpiece of the worthwhile Turtle Bay Exploration Park in Redding.

›

turtlebay.org/sundialbridge

City & Town

need an ice axe, crampons and the skill

For travelers, Redding was nothing more

to use them safely. But on Mount Lassen,

than a pit stop along Interstate 5 until

its neighbor to the south, a well-graded

the opening of the instantly iconic Sun-

trail runs all the way to the 10,457-foot-

dial Bridge across the Sacramento River

high summit. World-class fly fishing

in 2004. On the lower flanks of its name-

abounds in the Trinity Alps, and those

sake peak, Mount Shasta City sports a

willing to walk a short distance with

main street lined with New Age book-

their rods are almost guaranteed a spot

stores and shops selling crystals said to

to themselves. On the Salmon River,

have mystical powers. No less an

between the Trinity Alps and Marble

authority than James Hilton, author of

Mountains,

Lost Horizon, once claimed that the

(otterbar.com) is one of the West’s pre-

pretty alpine hamlet of Weaverville,

mier whitewater kayaking schools.

Otter

Bar

Lodge

gateway to the Trinity Alps, was the

Eagle Perch Witness the largest gathering of bald eagles in the lower 48 states each winter at the Lower Klamath and Tule Lake national wildlife refuges, north of Mount Shasta. › fws.gov/klamathbasinrefuges

Volcano Climb Hike to the summit of the southernmost of the Cascade volcanoes (summer only) while peering into steaming, sulphurous fumaroles at Lassen Volcanic National Park. › nps.gov/lavo

INSIDER’S

» TIP

Near the old railroad town of

closest he’s ever come to a real-life

Heritage & Culture

Dunsmuir, the glacier-polished

Shangri-La.

The Shasta Tribe of Native Americans

battlements of CASTLE CRAGS

once occupied much of what is now far-

STATE PARK offer superb hiking,

The Great Outdoors

northern

with superlative views of

Mount Shasta is irresistible to climbers;

Oregon, a band of hunters and fish-

nearby Mount Shasta, plus

in the spring, summit-seekers are strung

ermen who lived in cedar-plank houses

camping and fly fishing.

out along its most popular routes like

with basements. Their population

www.parks.ca.gov

ants on an anthill. To get to the top you

dropped rapidly as settlers seized land

California

and

southern

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DRIVE

» TOUR The VOLCANIC LEGACY

SCENIC BYWAY is a 500-mile-long route that winds from LAKE

ALMANOR, south of Mount Lassen, to CRATER

LAKE in southern Oregon, with access to most of the region’s major attractions. volcaniclegacybyway.org

following the discovery of gold in Yreka and Upper Soda Springs in 1850. To the east, at what is now Lava Beds National Monument, the Modoc tribe and the U.S. Army fought the last of the Indian wars in California in 1872-73. In the late 1880s, the Central Pacific Railroad spurred development of the timber and tourism industries, and in the 1970s, New Age seekers began filtering into the area, culminating in 1987’s “Harmonic Convergence,” which identified Shasta as one of the world’s

Family Fun The Sundial Bridge is the big draw, but for families, the surrounding Turtle Bay Exploration Center in Redding offers a full day’s worth of activities emphasizing the Sacramento River watershed, including an aquarium, museum, zoo, botanical garden and a recreated logging camp (turtlebay.org).

BUMPAS HELL in Lassen Volcanic National Park, above; a motorcyclist cruises through the park, top; ranch and vineyard in the Temecula Valley, opposite.

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2014 Classic cars, sock hops and ’50s-style burger joints are the big attractions of Redding’s COOL APRIL NIGHTS. April 19-27 koolaprilnites.com Eighty wild horses run free on the 5,000-acre WILD HORSE SANCTUARY near Mount Lassen. Guided, two- and three-day rides are offered spring through fall, and a special wildflower-themed ride is on April 26-27. wildhorsesanctuary.org

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LARRY HABEGGER. TOP: DAVID BRIMM/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: CHIP MORTON/ TEMECULA VALLEY CVB

“power centers.”

INLAND EMPIRE This off-the-tourist-map region of high desert, soaring mountain peaks and rich vineyards showcases California’s extremes

BY LENORE GREINER TOP CITIES Big Bear Lake, Lake Arrowhead, Temecula, Ontario, San Bernardino, Riverside INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Ontario International Airport (ONT), 35 miles (56 km) east of downtown Los Angeles, 23 miles (37 km) west of San Bernardino, 16 miles (26 km) west of Riverside TOURISM WEBSITES bigbear.com lakearrowhead.net temeculacvb.com POPULATION 4.2 million

he Inland Empire’s quintessentially Californian landscape closely

reflects the state’s past, from the Golden Age of traveling Route 66 to the old days of stagecoaches and local Indian culture. Rimmed by

the San Bernardino Mountains to the north and the San Jacinto range to the east, the region’s snow-capped granite peaks quickly descend into high desert canyons and, finally, a thriving wine country. In this region you can explore Spanish and Native American history, savor scenic beauty along hiking paths or ski runs or partake in typically Californian diversions, escaping to a quiet golf resort, taking a wine-tasting tour or soaking in relaxing hot springs. And, with fewer crowds and lower prices than Lake Tahoe and Napa Valley, the Inland Empire offers vacation destinations high on charm and thrills and low on attitude.

The Great Outdoors In the fresh alpine air of the San Bernardino Mountains, vacationers head to two popular lakes. At Big Bear Lake, outdoor enthusiasts enjoy year-round recreation, from watersports in the summer to winter’s alpine sports at Big Bear Mountain and Snow Summit, where the skiing and snowboarding are excellent. In summer, watersports lovers will find abundant fishing, boating, kayaking and even parasailing on Big Bear Lake. Lake Arrowhead INLAND EMPIRE

offers hiking, horseback riding, biking and stream fishing. Or take in the natural beauty and wander the Swiss Chalet-style alpine village of peaceful Lake Arrowhead with its charming shops and year-round ice-skating rink.

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MUST

SEE, DO

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2014 TEMECULA ROD RUN More than 700 hot rods descend upon Old Town Temecula. March 7-8 rodruntemecula.com OLD TOWN TEMECULA BLUEGRASS FESTIVAL March 15-16 cityoftemecula.org

March Field Air Museum This military

aircraft collection includes restored World War II aircraft and a Cold War-era Minuteman II Intercontinental Ballistic Missile.

›

marchfield.org

San Bernardino National Forest

Playing since 1923, the RAMONA OUTDOOR PLAY, a romance about the Ponca Indians, is America’s longest running outdoor drama. April 12-13 & 26-27, May 3-4 ramonabowl.com TEMECULA VALLEY BALLOON & WINE FESTIVAL features hot-air balloon rides, wine tastings and more. May 30-31, June 1 tvbwf.com LAKE ARROWHEAD ANNUAL ANTIQUE & CLASSIC WOODEN BOAT SHOW features rare antique and classic wooden boats. June 7-8 lakearrowhead.net

Elevations range from 1,000 feet to the 11,502-foot Mount San Gorgonio in this national forest covering 660,000 acres.

›

BIG BEAR LAKE & LAKE ARROWHEAD VILLAGE OKTOBERFESTS feature bands, beer and sausages. Weekends, Sep. 13-Oct. 26 bigbear.com, lakearrowheadvillage.com

fs.usda.gov/sbnf

SkyDive Perris Tandem jumps with an

BIG BEAR LAKE INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL offers screenings and parties with passionate filmmakers. Sep. 19-21 bigbearlakefilmfestival.com

instructor or indoor skydiving for adrenaline addicts.

›

skydiveperris.com

Or simply spend time stargazing, watching Pechanga Resort & Casino California’s

largest casino offers a huge concert venue, professional boxing, a 200,000 square-foot gaming

the leaves turn in autumn or the snowflakes flutter in winter.

pechanga.com

Just north of Temecula, play in the mud or soak in the soothing mineral waters of the 150-year-old Glen Ivy Hot Springs, an

floor, all night poker and a spa.

›

Arts and Crafts style homes of yesteryear.

City & Town

escape dating from early stagecoach days.

Food and wine fans can stroll through Old

For more excitement, soar in a hot air bal-

Mission Inn Hotel & Spa This National

Town Temecula’s historic district of 1890s

loon over Temecula Valley’s 35,000-acre

Historic Landmark hosted presidents and screen

buildings while wine tasting and sampling

wine country, dotted with wineries, B&Bs

stars in architecture evoking castles and cathedrals

local fare in a friendly, Old West ambiance.

and luxury resorts amid endless vine-

Or visit Redlands, the “City of Beautiful

yards. Afterwards, relax with a glass of

Homes,” and its opulent Victorians and

local wine on a portico in Temecula’s Old

in a rambling blend of Mission Revival, Moorish and Oriental styles, complete with gargoyles.

›

missioninn.com

California good life.

Heritage & Culture Head into Riverside to discover a wealth of California history. Here, the state’s first and oldest orange tree, planted in 1873, still stands on Magnolia Avenue where California’s multi-million-dollar citrus industry began. Since 1880, the Mission Inn has hosted U.S. presidents and delighted travelers with a Hearst Castlelike eclectic mix of Spanish and Moorish architecture, adorned with priceless Italian and Spanish treasures.

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MING-YEN HSU/CREATIVE COMMONS. OPPOSITE: TEMECULA VALLEY CVB

Town or play golf in this quiet oasis of the

LAKE ARROWHEAD REGATTA, opposite; hot-air ballooning in Temecula, right.

INSIDER’S

» TIP

Since 1949, the WIGWAM MOTEL has stood on historic Route 66 in what were once San Bernardino orange groves, one of three remaining Wigwams in Arizona and California. Today, this icon of roadside Americana still hosts travelers in 30-foot-tall tepees constructed of wood, concrete and stucco. Standing around a kidney-shaped swimming pool, the remodeled teepees have wifi and air-conditioning. wigwammotel.com

In Temecula, exhibits at the Temecula Valley Museum explore the region’s key stories, including Luiseno Indian culture during the Mission San Luis Rey period,

DRIVE

» TOUR

establishment of the Spanish ranchos, the impact of stagecoaches and the railroad, and

RIM OF THE WORLD SCENIC

the area’s history as a major citrus industry

BYWAY: This 107-mile scenic

capital. Exhibits tell these stories through

drive begins on State

handcrafted artifacts, documents, ranch

Highway 138 just west of I-15

equipment, photographs and other objects.

at the MORMON ROCK FIRE

STATION. Travel east on 138 to

Family Fun

the CAJON PASS OVERLOOK

The fun begins with silly science at Pen-

for breathtaking views, then

nypickle’s Workshop in the Children’s

east to SILVERWOOD LAKE

Museum. Tom’s Farms offers kids an

and the Mojave River basin. 138 merges with 18 along the rim of the San

1800’s steam train, a real gem mine and

Bernardino forest and provides sweeping vistas of San Bernardino,

pony rides. Explore local citrus history in the California Citrus State Historical Park’s working orchards and then hike on the

Redlands and the Los Angeles Basin. At BIG BEAR LAKE DAM, follow the road around Big Bear Lake to MILL CREEK RANGER STATION. This tour can be done in four hours.

scenic trails surrounding the groves.

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DESERTS Fertile ground for artists, adventurers, star-gazers, golfers and spa lovers

BY JAN RODRICKS

INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Palm Springs International Airport (PSP), 10 minutes from downtown Palm Springs, 44 miles (71 km) from Anza-Borrego State Park TOURISM WEBSITES ci.palm-springs.ca.us palm-desert.org la-quinta.org barstowca.org indio.org Anza-Borrego SP: parks.ca.gov/?page_id=638 Death Valley NP: nps.gov/deva Joshua Tree NP: nps.gov/jotr

ne of the most enduring myths about the California desert

is that it is lifeless. Nothing could be further from the truth. Just ask the thousands of visitors each year who flock to the

resort towns of Palm Springs, Palm Desert, La Quinta and others to indulge in spa culture, superb golf, fine dining and spirited nightlife. And, of course, brilliant weather. Set at the base of the San Jacinto Mountains, the oasis of Palm Springs is the ancestral home of the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Native Americans. This band remains active in local affairs, operating two hotels, two casinos, a golf resort with two courses (Indian Canyons Golf Resort) and an entertainment venue. Visitors can learn about the Agua Caliente through ranger-led tours of ancient palm groves and along streams and waterfalls of neighboring Tahquitz and Indian canyons, and at the Agua Caliente Cultural Museum in down-

POPULATION 750,000

town Palm Springs. Palm Springs is the getaway destination for many athletes and Hollywood stars; architectural tours offer a look at some of their amazing homes (and pools!). Palm Desert, also in the Coachella Valley, is another popular resort for snowbirds and golfers, with world-class golf courses, the excellent Palm Springs Art Museum and the always popular Living DESERTS

Desert Zoo & Gardens. The Coachella Valley also hosts one of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s great music festivals, the Coachella Valley Music & Arts

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PHOTOGOLFER/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: PHOTOS COURTESY OF PALM SPRINGS BUREAU OF TOURISM

TOP CITIES Palm Springs, Palm Desert, La Quinta, Barstow, Indian Wells, Needles, Salton Sea, Mojave

MUST

PGA WEST GOLF COURSE, Palm Springs, opposite; friends hang out at the pool, right; Palm Springs Art Museum, below.

SEE, DO

Palm Springs & Palm Desert Art Tours On the first Wednesday evening of every month, Palm Springs’ vibrant Backstreet Art District opens its doors. Visitors can browse through dozens of contemporary art galleries and interact with jewelry makers, ceramicists, performers and visual artists. Palm Desert also features guided walking art tours, one Saturday each month from September through May. › backstreetartdistrict.com › palm-desert.org/arts-culture/public-art/art-tours-and-maps

Ghost Towns The California desert hosts dozens of ghost towns—some so well preserved that you half expect to see a drunken miner stumbling out of the saloon. Death Valley is especially rich in abandoned settlements, most of them best explored with a 4wheel-drive vehicle. Other “ghost towns,” like Calico, offer a full range of tourist amenities—including staged gunfights. › ghosttowns.com/states/ca › desertusa.com/mag99/oct/stories/calico.html

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2014 25TH ANNUAL PALM SPRINGS FILM FESTIVAL Jan. 3-13 psfilmfest.org HUMANA CHALLENGE PRO-AM (FORMERLY THE BOB HOPE CLASSIC) Jan. 1319, La Quinta humanachallenge.com PALM SPRINGS ARTS FESTIVAL March 2-3, Frances Stevens Park, Palm Springs westcoastartists.com 32ND LA QUINTA ARTS FESTIVAL March 6-9, La Quinta Civic Center campus, La Quinta lqaf.com/cultural-events/la-quinta-arts-festival COACHELLA VALLEY MUSIC & ARTS FESTIVAL April 11-13, 18-20, Indio coachella.com JOSHUA TREE SPRING MUSIC FESTIVAL May 16-18, Joshua Tree Lake Campground joshuatreemusicfestival.com MOJAVE DEATH RACE (RUNNING, CYCLING) May 31-June 1, mojavedeathrace.com SCOTTY’S CASTLE ORGAN CONCERTS June, check website for exact dates. Scotty's Castle, Death Valley nps.gov/deva/historyculture/special-events.htm BORREGO DAYS DESERT FESTIVAL Oct. 24-26, Borrego Springs borregospringschamber.com/BorregoDays GEMINIDS METEOR SHOWERS Dec. 4-16, peak nights Dec. 13 & 14 amsmeteors.org/meteor-showers/meteor-shower-calendar/?y=2014

Route 66 The settlement of the American West began with a series of road trips (of sorts); don’t miss the opportunity to navigate your way along this historic motorway, lovingly known as “America’s Main Street.” On the memorable section running from Barstow to Amboy, you can practically taste the hamburgers— especially if you stop at Roy’s Motel and Café. › theroadwanderer.net/route66CA.htm

Scotty’s Castle Walter Scott hailed from Kentucky, but his passion was gold mining—in Death Valley. Backed by a Chicago millionaire, he built an impressive villa amid the desert sands: Scotty’s Castle, complete with a 1,121 pipe organ. Tours are offered by the National Park Service. › nps.gov/deva/historyculture/scottys-castle.htm

Dark Skies There are seven major meteor showers every year, some producing up to 100 shooting stars an hour. There are few better places to watch them than the outskirts of Palm Springs or Palm Desert. The best meteor showers of 2014 will occur late at night May 5-6, July 28-29, August 12-13 and December 13-14. Even without creature comforts, of course, stargazing in the desert is a thrill. For superdark skies, pack a folding chaise longue and comforter and head for Death Valley, Anza-Borrego, or Highway 14 in the Mojave Valley. › amsmeteors.org/meteor-showers/meteor-shower-calendar

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Festival (known simply as Coachella) in Indio. Several hundred thousand music lovers pass through the turnstiles over two consecutive weekends in April. Motorists in search of an epic road trip can explore the desert along Historic U.S. Route 66—the legendary “Main Street of America”—which once connected Chicago with Los Angeles. There are also spectacular drives through Death Valley, Joshua Tree and Anza-Borrego. Another great way to experience these gems of the desert is on foot, during a well-supplied day hike. The California desert is one of the Golden State’s most welcoming and surprising destinations. It took the Death Valley 49ers two full months to navigate this forbidding wilderness. You might decide to cross it in

» TIP

While you’re in their neighborhood, take the

hundreds of hopeful prospectors. Toward

separate myth from reality.

the turn of the century, though, the price of silver dropped. Borax became the min-

Heritage & Culture

eral of choice. But even borax mining

At least a dozen Native American tribes,

ended about 10 years later, and the new

from the Cahuilla to the Yokuts, called the

boomtowns withered in the desert wind.

North American desert home before white

The desert has always attracted those

adventurers moved west from the Great

with an independent nature. For more

Plains. These First People found ingenious

than 160 years, this rough but complex Cal-

means of survival, trapping the small

ifornia landscape has incubated uniquely

after Noah’s Ark ran aground—

desert animals and collecting water run-

hardscrabble settlers—from Walter E. Scott

California bristlecone pines are

off when the rare rains fell.

(the namesake of famed Scotty’s Castle, in

opportunity to visit the oldest Earthlings in existence. Believed to be as ancient as 5,000 years old—“born” just a few centuries

The first band of Gold Rush hopefuls to

Death Valley) to the eccentric residents

denizens of the high desert. The

behold the Mojave arrived Christmas Day,

who live along the shrinking Salton Sea.

ANCIENT BRISTLECONE PINE FOREST, located near BISHOP,

1849. Eager to avoid the grisly fate of the

And others, of course—in the lush oasis

Donner Party—who’d gotten stuck in the

communities

Sierra Nevada snows, and were forced into

Coachella Valley—have created lavish

cannibalism—this scrappy lot had traveled

lifestyles that would strike the early set-

southwest, along the Old Spanish Trail.

tlers dumb with amazement.

easily the most tenacious

is usually open from mid-May through November. This moonscape-like area of the PATRIARCH GROVE features the world’s largest example of these

scattered

through

the

After crossing Nevada’s Great Basin, they

desert survivors—the sight of

encountered a wasteland that practically

A World of Its Own

which tends to put human

named itself: Death Valley.

California is vast, with a greater land area

When the Gold Rush petered out, silver

than Germany or Italy. The southern desert

fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/

beckoned new fortune seekers. Many of

is larger than 10 of the other U.S. states. In

specialplaces/?cid=stelprdb5129900

the desert’s best-preserved ghost towns,

many ways that desert is a land unto itself,

like Calico, were once thriving mines with

a place almost unimaginably remote from

history into perspective.

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JORG HACKEMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE:WILDNERDPIX/SHUTTERSTOCK

INSIDER’S

two days—but even that’s long enough to

BADWATER BASIN, opposite, is an endorheic basin in Death Valley National Park.

DRIVE

» TOUR Though there are great off-

the cafés of Melrose Avenue, the Big Sur

road trips in and around all of

cliffs or the redwood giants.

California’s desert parks, the drive to AMBOY CRATER along

But the dry, clear climate has an

legendary ROUTE 66 is both

enormous appeal of its own. Palm

scenic and historic. Route 66

Springs—celebrating its 75 anniversary— is a mecca for vacationers. The city boasts

begins in SANTA MONICA and crosses CALIFORNIA’S MOJAVE DESERT,

enough events, from the January Film Fes-

from BARSTOW to Needles. To get to this section of the road, take

tival to the Backstreet Art Walk, to keep you

INTERSTATE 40 and exit at FENNER. Follow Historic Route 66 toward

busy every day of the year. Palm Desert is

AMBOY through some very desolate and spectacular country. The ride is best early in the year, when the area around the ancient crater is

slightly less posh, but equally beguiling,

carpeted with wildflowers. As always, drives through the desert can be

with more than 150 works of public art

unpredictable. Make sure you have plenty of water—for the car as

enlivening the already beautiful landscape.

well as for yourself!

Though one might choose a base in Palm Desert, San Diego or even Las Vegas, the eternal spirit of the California desert is found in its conservation areas. Death

which transforms the dry, unwelcoming

Valley and Joshua Tree are the premier

scrubland into a hallucinatory paradise

national parks, and many visitors plan

that seems lifted right out of The Wizard of

their entire visit around one of these mag-

Oz. Death Valley, Anza-Borrego and Joshua

ical, even spiritual, destinations. Death

Tree are the most popular destinations for

Valley alone offers enough spectacular

flower and cactus lovers, with dozens of

hiking, 4WD routes, ghost towns and nat-

rare and fantastic plant species—from

ural attractions to merit a four- to five-day

hearty wolf cholla to delicate ghost

visit. America’s biggest state park, Anza-

flowers—in bloom. Meanwhile, on the

Borrego, is a major pilgrimage site during

Mojave’s edge north of Los Angeles,

the wildflower season. The region’s signa-

the Antelope Valley Poppy State Reserve

ture towns—Indian Wells, Needles, Salton

provides miles of trails (some wheelchair-

Sea and Mojave—provide a taste of local

accessible) through rolling fields of lush

character. For more sophisticated pursuits,

and unbroken gold flowers.

the desert’s three cosmopolitan centers—

ANZA-BORREGO DESERT State Park wildflowers, above.

Palm Springs, Palm Desert and La

Family Fun

Quinta—offer golf, tennis, equestrian

There are infinite possibilities for adven-

long-departed gold miners haunting the

sports, fashion shows and film festivals.

ture and exploration in California’s

landscape.

deserts. Just stay well-stocked with water

Rock hounding delights kids of all ages,

Desert Wildflowers

(one gallon per person per day) and be vig-

with excellent volcanic specimens to be

Winters in the desert can be numbingly

ilant of the dangers presented by any

found around Amboy Crater Natural Land-

cold, while summers are blazing hot. But

desert environment—hazards that can

mark (see Drive Tour, above) and red quartz

between March and mid-May—if the rains

include rock falls, sudden storms and flash

in the Turtle Mountain Wilderness.

have been good—the desert becomes a

floods.

Horseback riding, camping, mountain

magnet for people who love color, fra-

For families, exploring ghost towns is

biking and hiking are also popular desert

grance and landscapes of almost surreal

always a thrill. When the warm wind blows

activities. Some federally-managed desert

beauty. Few wildflower displays on earth

and those ancient doors and shutters

areas (BLM areas) allow ATV expeditions

compare with the California desert bloom,

creak, it’s easy to imagine the spirits of

as well.

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167

2014 TRAVEL GUIDE TO

CALIFORNIA RESOURCES »

GENERAL INFORMATION

POPULATION: 38,042,000 AREA: 158,693 square miles. It is approximately 770 miles long from the Mexican border to the Oregon border, and 250 miles wide from the Pacific Ocean to the Nevada and Arizona borders. TIME: California is in the Pacific Time Zone (GMT minus 8 hours). The state observes daylight saving time. TAXES: The state sales tax is 7.5%. Local taxes may be as much as an additional 1%. DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE: For local numbers, dial 411; long-distance, 1 plus area code plus 555-1212; toll-free, 1-800-555-1212. EMERGENCY ASSISTANCE: Call 911 toll free from any public telephone to obtain police, fire or medical assistance. LIQUOR LAWS: Alcohol is sold throughout California. Legal drinking age is 21. SMOKING LAWS: You must be 18 to purchase tobacco products. Smoking is prohibited in all public buildings and enclosed spaces throughout California. Many cities in California have passed ordinances prohibiting smoking in all public places. It is even illegal to smoke on certain beaches in Southern California—watch for signs.

CALIFORNIA WELCOME CENTERS

THERE ARE 19 OFFICIAL state Welcome Centers in 10 of the state’s tourism regions. Each center is listed by the region in which it is located. For more information, go to VisitCWC.com.

San Francisco Bay Area Pier 39, Building B Second Level, Unit B12 San Francisco 415-981-1280

San Diego County 928 North Coast Highway Oceanside 1-800-350-7873 760-721-1101

Hillsdale Shopping Center Sixty 31st Avenue, Space 1062 San Mateo 650-578-8033

5005 Willow Road, Suite 100 Alpine 619-445-0180 Desert Region 2796 Tanger Way, Suite 100 Barstow 760-253-4782 56711 29 Palms Highway Yucca Valley 760-365-5464 Orange County 6601 Beach Blvd. Buena Park 1-800-541-3953 Central Coast 333 Five Cities Drive, Suite 100 Pismo Beach 805-773-7924 1213 North Davis Road Salinas 831-757-8687 1000 Town Center Drive, Suite 135 Oxnard 805-988-0717 Central Valley 710 W. 16th Street, Suite A Merced 209-724-8104

Gold Country 1103 High Street Auburn 530-887-2111 2085 Vine Street, Suite 105 El Dorado Hills 916-358-3700 High Sierra 10065 Donner Pass Road Truckee 530-587-8808 2510 Main Street Mammoth Lakes 760-924-5500 North Coast 1635 Heindon Road Arcata 707-822-3619 9 Fourth Street Santa Rosa 1-800-404-7673 Shasta/Cascade 1699 Highway 273 Anderson 530-365-1180 2 California 96 Yreka 530-475-3814

QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE TO TRAVEL GENERAL TRAVEL visitcalifornia.com BEACHES beachcalifornia.com BORDER SERVICES cbp.gov BUS TRAVEL greyhound.com CALIFORNIA STATE GOVERNMENT ca.gov CALIFORNIA NATIONAL PARKS, NATIONAL FORESTS & PUBLIC LANDS nps.gov/state/ca fs.fed.us/r5/ca.blm.gov CALIFORNIA STATE PARKS parks.ca.gov COOKING SCHOOLS epitourean.com/Destination/8/California.aspx ECO, ADVENTURE, OUTDOOR gorp.com adventuresportsonline.com infohub.com

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FESTIVALS californiafairsandfestivals.com festivals.com FISHING dfg.ca.gov/licensing fishingnetwork.net FREQUENT FLYER PROGRAMS frequentflier.com webflyer.com GAY & LESBIAN TRAVEL laglc.org gaytravel.com GOLF golfcalifornia.com golflink.com HUNTING dfg.ca.gov RAIL TRAVEL amtrak.com ROAD CONDITIONS dot.ca.gov/cgi-bin/roads.cgi SENIOR TRAVEL roadscholar.org aarp.org

SKI CONDITIONS skireport.com/california SOLO TRAVEL cstn.org STUDENT TRAVEL statravel.com SPORTS TRAVEL sportstravel.com TRANSPORTATION REGULATIONS dmv.ca.gov TRAVELING WITH CHILDREN travelforkids.com/Funtodo/California/california.htm familyvacationcritic.com TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES visitcalifornia.com/Travel-Tools/Travelers-withDisabilities accessnca.org/resources/ WEATHER CONDITIONS wunderground.com WOMEN TRAVELERS adventurewomen.com journeywoman.com

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CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAUS

Amador County Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Bureau 1-800-649-4988; 209-223-0350 amadorcountychamber.com Anaheim/Orange County Visitor and Convention Bureau 1-855-405-5020 anaheimoc.org Bakersfield Convention & Visitors Bureau 1-866-325-6001; 1-866-425-7353 bakersfieldcvb.org Berkeley Convention & Visitors Bureau 1-800-847-4823 visitberkeley.com Beverly Hills Visitors Bureau 1-800-345-2210 lovebeverlyhills.com Calaveras Visitors Bureau 1-800-225-3764 visitcalaveras.org Central Valley Tourism Association 1-800-514-5539 visitcentralvalley.com Crescent City/Del Norte County Chamber of Commerce 1-800-343-8300 exploredelnorte.com El Dorado County Visitors Authority 1-800-457-6279 visit-eldorado.com

Manteca Visitors Center 209-823-7229 visitmanteca.org

San Luis Obispo County Tourism Information 805-541-8000 visitsanluisobispocounty.com

Marin County Convention & Visitors Bureau 415-925-2060 visitmarin.org

San Mateo County Convention & Visitors Bureau 1-800-288-4748 smccvb.com

Marina del Rey Convention & Visitors Bureau 310-305-9545 visitmarinadelrey.com Mendocino County 310-305-9545; 1-866-466-3636 visitmendocino.com Modesto Convention & Visitors Bureau 1-888-640-8467 visitmodesto.com Monterey County Convention & Visitors Bureau 1-888-221-1010 seemonterey.com Napa Valley Destination Council 707-251-5895 legendarynapavalley.com Newport Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau 1-800-94-COAST visitnewportbeach.com North Lake Tahoe Visitors & Convention Bureau 1-800-462-5196 gotahoenorth.com Oakdale Tourism & Visitors Bureau 209-322-9702 visitoakdale.com

Eureka/Humboldt County Convention and Visitors Bureau 1-800-346-3482 redwoods.info

Oakland Convention & Visitors Bureau 510-839-9000 visitoakland.org

Fairfield Tourism Association 1-877-7WE-RFUN fairfield4fun.com

Oxnard Convention & Visitors Bureau 1-800-2-OXNARD visitoxnard.com

Fresno City and County Convention & Visitors Bureau 1-800-788-0836 playfresno.org

Palm Desert Visitors Center 1-800-873-2428 palm-desert.org

Santa Barbara Conference & Visitors Bureau 1-877-615-1085; 805-966-9222 santabarbara.com Santa Clara Convention & Visitors Bureau 1-800-272-6822 santaclara.org Santa Cruz County Conference & Visitors Council 1-800-833-3494 santacruzca.org Santa Monica Convention & Visitors Bureau 1-800-544-5319 santamonica.com Solvang Conference & Visitors Bureau 805-688-6144 solvangusa.com Sonoma County Tourism Bureau 707-522- 5800 sonomacounty.com Stockton Convention & Visitors Bureau 1-877-778-6258 celebratestockton.com Temecula Valley Convention & Visitors Bureau 1-888-363-2852 temeculacvb.com Tri-Valley Convention & Visitors Bureau 925-846-8910 visittrivalley.com Tuolumne County Visitors Bureau 1-800-446-1333 tcvb.com Turlock Convention & Visitors Bureau 209-632-2221 visitturlock.org

Gilroy Visitors Bureau 408-842-6436 gilroywelcomecenter.org

Palm Springs Desert Resorts Convention & Visitors Authority 1-800-967-3767 visitgreaterpalmsprings.com

Vacaville Conference & Visitors Bureau 707-450-0500 visitvacaville.com

Huntington Beach Visitors Bureau 1-800-729-6232 surfcityusa.com

Pasadena Convention & Visitors Authority 1-800-307-7977 pasadenacal.com

Vallejo Convention & Visitors Bureau 707- 642-3653 visitvallejo.com

Laguna Beach Visitors Bureau 949-497-9229 lagunabeachinfo.org

Pismo Beach Conference & Visitors Authority 805-773-4657 pismobeach.org

Ventura Visitors & Convention Bureau 805-648-2075 ventura-usa.com

Lake County Visitor Information Center 1-800-525-3743 lakecounty.com

Redding Convention & Visitors Bureau 1-800-874-7562 visitredding.com

West Hollywood Convention & Visitors Bureau 1-800-368-6020 visitwesthollywood.com

Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority 530-544-5050 tahoesouth.com

Sacramento Convention & Visitors Bureau 1-800-292-2334 discovergold.org

Yolo County Visitors Bureau 530-297-1900 yolocvb.org

Los Angeles Convention & Visitors Bureau 1-800-228-2452 discoverlosangeles.com

San Diego Convention & Visitors Bureau 619-232-3101 sandiego.org

Yosemite Mariposa County Visitors Bureau 209-742-4567 yosemiteexperience.com

Mammoth Lakes Tourism 1-888-GO-MAMMOTH visitmammoth.com

San Francisco Travel Association 415-391-2000 sanfrancisco.travel

Yosemite Sierra Visitors Bureau 559-683-4636 yosemitethisyear.com

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169

RESOURCES »

HOLIDAYS

January 1

New Year’s Day

September 1

Labor Day

January 20

Martin Luther King Jr.’s Birthday

October 13

Columbus Day

February 17

Presidents’ Birthdays

November 11

Veterans Day

March 31

César Chávez Day

November 27

Thanksgiving Day

May 26

Memorial Day

December 25

Christmas Day.

July 4

Independence Day

CLIMATE/TEMPERATURES

Average temperatures reflect those of a city centrally located in the region. Temperatures at the coast are often 5 or more degrees cooler than inland temperatures because of coastal breezes and fog, and farther inland, temperatures are often significantly warmer than central locations at the same elevation. Cities for average temperatures: San Diego County: San Diego; Desert: Palm Springs; Orange County: Orange; Inland Empire: San Bernardino; Los Angeles County: Los Angeles; Central Coast: San Luis Obispo; Central Valley: Merced; San Francisco Bay Area: San Francisco; Gold Country: Sacramento; High Sierra: Truckee; North Coast: Arcata; Shasta Cascade: Redding Source: Weatherbase.com

JAN

FEB

MAR

APR

MAY

JUNE

JULY

AUG

SEPT

OCT

NOV

DEC

SAN DIEGO COUNTY

F° C°

48/65 8/18

50/66 10/18

52/66 11/18

55/68 12/20

58/69 14/20

61/72 16/22

65/76 18/24

66/77 18/25

65/77 18/25

60/74 15/23

53/71 11/21

49/66 9/18

DESERTS

F° C°

48/65 8/18

50/66 10/18

52/66 11/18

55/68 12/20

58/69 14/20

61/72 16/22

65/76 18/24

66/77 18/25

65/77 18/25

60/74 15/23

53/71 11/21

49/66 9/18

ORANGE COUNTY

F° C°

45/65 7/18

46/67 7/19

47/67 8/19

50/71 10/21

54/72 12/22

57/77 13/25

61/82 16/27

62/83 16/28

60/82 15/27

56/77 13/25

50/71 10/21

46/66 7/18

INLAND EMPIRE

F° C°

37/62 3/17

39/66 4/19

41/68 5/20

46/71 8/22

50/77 10/25

53/84 12/29

60/93 16/34

57/89 14/32

50/80 10/27

42/71 6/22

37/64 3/18

LOS ANGELES COUNTY

F° C°

48/65 8/18

49/66 9/18

50/68 10/20

53/70 11/21

56/73 13/22

58/76 14/24

62/82 16/27

63/82 17/27

61/81 16/27

58/77 14/25

53/73 11/22

50/68 10/20

CENTRAL COAST

F° C°

38/62 3/16

40/63 4/17

42/64 5/17

44/66 6/18

47/68 8/20

49/70 9/21

52/72 11/22

51/74 10/23

47/73 8/22

42/70 5/21

40/65 4/18

CENTRAL VALLEY

F° C°

38/53 3/11

41/59 5/15

43/64 6/17

47/72 8/22

53/80 11/26

58/88 14/31

63/94 17/34

62/92 16/33

58/87 14/30

51/77 10/25

43/63 6/17

38/53 3/11

SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA

F° C°

46/56 7/13

48/60 8/15

49/61 9/16

50/63 10/17

51/64 10/17

53/66 11/18

54/66 12/18

56/70 13/21

55/69 12/20

51/64 10/17

47/57 8/13

GOLD COUNTRY

F° C°

38/53 3/11

41/60 5/15

43/64 6/17

46/71 7/21

50/80 10/26

55/87 12/30

58/93 14/33

58/91 14/32

56/88 13/31

50/78 10/25

43/64 6/17

38/53 3/11

HIGH SIERRA

F° C°

14/39 -9/3

17/43 -8/6

21/46 -6/7

26/54 -3/11

31/63 0/17

37/72 2/22

42/82 5/27

40/81 4/27

36/74 2/23

29/64 -1/17

22/49 -5/9

16/41 -8/4

NORTH COAST

F° C°

42/53 5/11

42/54 5/12

44/55 6/12

48/57 8/13

51/60 10/15

52/60 11/15

52/61 11/16

51/62 10/16

48/60 8/15

45/57 7/13

43/55 6/12

SHASTA CASCADE

F° C°

36/55 2/12

38/61 3/16

43/6 6/18

48/73 8/22

53/81 11/27

60/89 15/31

66/98 18/36

62/97 16/36

57/91 13/32

50/81 10/27

40/65 4/18

35/55 1/12

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MEDICAL CARE & TRAVEL INSURANCE DRIVING REGULATIONS

Visitor Medical Insurance plans are designed to cover medical expenses resulting from a sudden illness or injury while visiting the USA or other countries. Typically, visitor insurance plans offer benefits to cover inpatient hospital, outpatient doctor ojjfice visits, surgery and prescription drug expenses.

LICENSE/DOCUMENTATION: You must have a valid driver’s license from a U.S. state or foreign country. Minimum driving age is 16. For more information about California driver’s license regulations, call 1-800-777-0133. SEATBELT: By law, everyone in a vehicle must wear a seatbelt. Children under the age of eight (8) must be secured in a car seat or booster seat in the back seat. Infants should stay in rearfacing seats until they weigh at least 20 pounds, can pull themselves up to stand, or reach one year of age.

Go One Global Corporation 1-800-257-7718 g1g.com Distributor of online travel and international medical insurance products and services.

HELMETS: Motorcycle helmets must be worn by all motorcycle riders, as well as their passengers. Bicycle riders under the age of 18 must wear helmets.

Insubuy 1-866-467-8289 insubuy.com Provides a variety of short—term medical insurance for foreigners visiting the USA.

SPEED LIMITS: These are posted in miles-per-hour (mph). Generally, the speed limit on multilane freeways is 65 mph. On two-lane highways it is usually 55 mph. The speed limit on city streets is usually 25-35 mph. In residential areas, near schools and in areas with heavy foot traffic, the speed limit is almost always 25 mph.

International Services, Inc. 1-877-593-5403 nriol.net Financial services company with focus on providing quality insurance for U.S. residents, travel insurance for tourists, and medical insurance for international students.

CARPOOL LANES: Major urban areas have carpool lanes (or “diamond lanes”) identified by small black-and-white signs and by diamonds painted on the roadway. To drive in a carpool lane, you must usually have two people (including the driver) in the car. Some carpool lanes in the San Francisco Bay Area require three people (including the driver).

Multichoice Insurance Services 1-855-444-6247 insurancemultichoice.com Fast, simple, online (secured) and effective way to fulﬁll travel insurance needs.

CELL PHONES: The Wireless Communications Device Law makes it an infraction to write, send or read text-based communication on an electronic wireless communications device, such as a cell phone, while driving a motor vehicle. Drivers must also use a hands-free device when speaking on a cell phone.

Patriot America 1-877-778-4562 patriotamericainsurance.net Worldwide travel medical insurance for non-U.S. citizens traveling outside of their citizenship country.

ACCIDENTS: You must report accidents to the California Department of Motor Vehicles if injury or death occurs, or if damage exceeds $750. DRINKING AND DRIVING: It is illegal to drive under the influence of alcohol (blood alcohol concentration of .08% or higher).

Visitors Care 1-877-593-5403 visitorscareinsurance.net Low Cost Travel Medical Insurance for all non-US citizens traveling to the United States.

USA-Assist Worldwide Protect

ROAD CONDITIONS: The California Department of Transportation maintains a free 24-hour hotline for information at 1-800-427-7623. In the San Francisco Bay Area, dial 511 on your phone to get up-to-the-minute transportation information.

1-877-539-8619 usa-assist.com Provides travel insurance, assistance and protection to all kinds of travelers, including groups and business travelers worldwide.

OTHER: Roundabouts are uncommon in California. Most intersections are either signed by traffic lights or by stop signs. Unless signed otherwise, it is legal to make a right turn on a red light after you come to a complete stop.

RESOURCES FOR THE DISABLED

RESOURCES FOR THE DISABLED ACCESS NORTHERN CALIFORNIA: A non-profit organization dedicated to providing increased opportunities and improving access to travel and outdoor recreation for people with disabilities throughout Northern California. Website (accessnca.org) has a large resource section with lodging, parks, transportation, adaptive recreation and more. ACCESSIBLE SAN DIEGO: This is a non-profit information center for travelers with disabilities in San Diego County. Information available via their website (asd.travel) and they publish an annual guide available via download or hard copy.

CAR RENTAL: Avis Rent a Car has an “Avis Access” program that offers a dedicated 24-hour toll-free number (1-888-879-4273) for customers with special travel needs; special car features such as swivel seats, spinner knobs and hand controls; and accessible bus service. HEARING IMPAIRED ASSISTANCE: Dial 711 for TDD-to-voice or voice-to-TDD relays. LOS ANGELES HANDICAPPED TOURIST ACCESSIBILITY GUIDE: Available online at latourist.com. Includes accessible tourist attractions, hiking trails, outdoor activities, transportation and more. NATIONAL PARKS: Free access to national parks is available to U.S. citizens and residents who have a

permanent disability. The Golden Access Passport is available at any National Park Service Headquarters. STATE PARKS: The California Department of Parks and Recreation offers a Disabled Discount Pass which provides a 50 percent discount for use of all basic facilities (including day use parking, camping and boat/day use parking fees) at any unit of the California State Park System operated by the State Department of Parks and Recreation. Cost is $3.50 and is available online (parks.ca.gov) or by calling 1800-777-0369. TRAIN TRAVEL: All rail services in California are wheelchair accessible. In addition, Amtrak offers a 15% discount to travelers with disabilities (1-800872-7245 or amtrak.com).

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171

RESOURCES »

Hawthorn Suites 1-800-337-0202; hawthorn.com Hilton Hotels 1-800-HILTONS; Hilton.com Historic Hotels of America 1-800-678-8946 historichotels.org Holiday Inn/Holiday Inn Express 1-800-465-4329; holidayinn.com Homestead Studio Suites Hotels 1-800-804-3724; homesteadhotels.com Howard Johnson 1-800-221-5801; hojo.com Hyatt Hotels 1-800-591-1234; hyatt.com Intercontinental Hotels 1-877-424-2449 ichotelsgroup.com Joie de Vivre 1-800-738-7477; jdvhotels.com Kimpton Hotels 1-800-KIMPTON kimptonhotels.com La Quinta Inn and Suites 1-800-SLEEPLQ lq.com Larkspur Hotels 415-945-5001 larkspurhotels.com

Auberge Resorts 415-380-3460 aubergeresorts.com Best Western 1-800-780-7234 bestwesterncalifornia.com California Association of Bed & Breakfast Inns 1-800-373-9251; cabbi.com Choice Hotels 1-877-424-6423; choicehotels.com Crowne Plaza 1-877-227-6963; crowneplaza.com Days Inn 1-800-441-1618; daysinn.com Doubletree 1-855-610-TREE doubletree.hilton.com Embassy Suites 1-800-EMBASSY embassysuites.hilton.com Fairmont Hotels & Resorts 1-800-257-7544 fairmont.com Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts 1-800-819-5053; fourseasons.com Hampton Inn & Suites 1-800-HAMPTON hamptoninn.hilton.com

HOTELS, RESORTS & INNS Marriott Hotels 1-800-721-7033; marriott.com Preferred Hotels & Resorts 1-800-323-7500 preferredhotels.com Radisson Hotel & Suites 1-800-967-9033 radisson.com Ramada Inn 1-800-854-9517 ramada.com The Ritz-Carlton 1-800-542-8680 ritzcarlton.com St. Regis and Luxury Collection 1-800-542-8680; starwoodhotels.com Starwood Hotels 1-888-625-4988 starwoodhotels.com Travelodge 1-800-525-4055 travelodge.com W Hotels 1-877-W-HOTELS starwoodhotels.com Wyndham Hotels & Resorts 1-800-347-7559 wyndhamworldwide.com

AIRPORTS

AIRPORT/CODE BOB HOPE AIRPORT (BUR) BURBANK

DISTANCE FROM CITY

COST OF TAXI

COST OF SHUTTLE

(APPROX.)

PUBLIC TRANSIT

PHONE

WEBSITE

2.7 mi 4.3 km

$5-10

$10

Metrolink, Amtrak, MTA Bus, Burbank Bus

1-818-840-8840

burbankairport.com

5.4 mi 8.7km Yosemite 92 mi 148 km

$10

—

Fresno Area Express Bus, VIA (Yosemite Connection Service)

1-800-244-2359

fresno.gov/DiscoverFresno/ Airports

LONG BEACH AIRPORT (LGB) LONG BEACH

6 mi 9.6 km

$19

$20

Long Beach Transit Bus

562-570-2619

longbeach.gov/airport

LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL (LAX) LOS ANGELES

16.5 mi 26.5 km

$42

$15

Metro Bus and Rail lines

310-646-5252

lawa.org/welcomelax.aspx

OAKLAND INTERNATIONAL (OAK) OAKLAND

4.6 mi 7.4 km

$37

$26

AC Transit Bus, BART

510-563-3300

flyoakland.com

ONTARIO INTERNATIONAL (ONT) ONTARIO

2.3 mi 3.7 km

$10

$15

OmniTans Bus

909-937-2700

lawa.org/welcomeont.aspx

PALM SPRINGS INTERNATIONAL (PSP) PALM SPRINGS

1.8 mi 3 km

$10

MBTA Bus, SunLine Bus

760-318-3800

ci.palm-springs.ca.us/ index.aspx?page=270

SACRAMENTO INTERNATIONAL (SMF) SACRAMENTO

10 mi 16 km

$28

$14

YoloBus

916-929-5411

sacairports.org

SAN DIEGO INTERNATIONAL (SAN) SAN DIEGO

5.3 mi 8.5 km

$18

$12

Metro Bus

619-400-2404

san.org

SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL (SFO) SAN FRANCISCO

14 mi 22.5 km

$48

$17

AC Transit Bus, BART, SamTrans Bus, CalTrain

1-800-435-9736

flysfo.com

SAN JOSE INTERNATIONAL (SJC) SAN JOSE

2.5 mi 4 km

$15

$19

VTA Bus

408-277-4SKY

sjc.org

JOHN WAYNE – ORANGE COUNTY AIRPORT (SNA) SANTA ANA

9.3 mi 15 km

$25

$16

OCTA Bus, Irvine Shuttle Bus

949-252-5200

ocair.com

FRESNO-YOSEMITE INTERNATIONAL (FAT) FRESNO

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AIR DISTANCES BETWEEN SELECTED CITIES SAN DIEGO (SAN)

PALM SPRINGS (PSP)

LOS ANGELES (LAX)

SAN JOSE (SJC)

SAN FRANCISCO (SFO)

SACRAMENTO (SMF)

SAN DIEGO

mile/km/h

—

85/137/<1

109/175/<1

417/671/1

437/703/1

480/772/1

LOS ANGELES

mile/km/h

109/175/<1

110/176/<1

—

308/495/1

327/527/1

373/600/1

SAN FRANCISCO

mile/km/h

437/703/1

410/660/1

327/527/1

20/32/<1

—

84/135/<1

NEW YORK

mile/km/h

2440/3928/5

2373/3819/5

2469/3974/5

2562/4124/5

2570/4136/5

2514/4046/5

MIAMI

mile/km/h

2267/3649/5

2232/3593/4

2432/3769/5

2559/4118/5

2574/4142/5

2552/4107/5

CHICAGO

mile/km/h

1723/2773/3

1652/2658/3

1744/2807/3

1829/2944/4

1837/2956/4

1781/2867/4

DENVER

mile/km/h

853/1373/2

776/1249/2

862/1387/2

948/1526/2

957/1541/2

910/1464/2

SEATTLE

mile/km/h

1050/1690/2

987/1589/2

954/1535/2

696/1121/2

682/1097/2

605/974/2

TORONTO

mile/km/h

2157/3472/5

2085/3355/5

2176/3501/5

2245/3612/5

2251/3622/5

2191/3526/4

VANCOUVER

mile/km/h

1177/1894/2

1114/1793/2

1080/1739/2

819/1318/2

804/1293/2

729/1173/2

h = flight time rounded to nearest number of hours; <1 = less than 1 hour

DRIVING DISTANCES SAN DIEGO

PALM SPRINGS

LOS ANGELES

SANTA BARBARA

MONTEREY

SAN JOSE

SAN FRANCISCO SACRAMENTO

YOSEMITE

LAKE TAHOE

REDDING

SAN DIEGO

mile/km

—

126/203

127/204

218/351

450/724

468/753

514/827

509/819

482/776

604/972

664/1069

PALM SPRINGS

mile/km

126/203

—

114/183

204/328

453/729

447/719

487/784

490/789

468/753

591/951

651/1048

LOS ANGELES

mile/km

127/204

114/183

—

91/146

327/526

347/558

387/623

388/624

359/578

484/779

544/875

SANTA BARBARA

mile/km

218/351

204/328

91/146

—

242/389

286/460

327/526

379/610

398/641

500/805

535/861

MONTEREY

mile/km

450/724

453/729

327/526

242/389

—

69/111

114/183

188/303

203/327

284/457

316/509

SAN FRANCISCO

mile/km

514/827

487/784

387/623

327/526

114/183

44/71

—

90/145

182/293

185/298

217/349

YOSEMITE

mile/km

482/776

468/753

359/578

398/641

203/327

174/280

182/293

196/315

—

198/319

247/397

LAKE TAHOE

mile/km

604/972

591/951

484/779

500/805

284/457

214/344

185/298

102/164

198/319

—

256/412

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RESOURCES »

NATIONAL PARKS & HISTORIC SITES

Arranged north to south. Lava Beds National Monument, Tulelake Rugged landscape dotted with diverse volcanic features. Hiking, camping. nps.gov/labe Whiskeytown National Recreation Area, Whiskeytown Mountain lake recreation area. Hiking, mountain biking, camping, water sports. nps.gov/whis Redwood National and State Parks, Del Norte & Humboldt counties An ancient coast redwood ecosystem that is home to the world’s tallest trees. Park is comprised of 112,000 acres of forests, rivers and wild coastline. Hiking, camping. nps.gov/redw Lassen Volcanic National Park, Mineral Large group of volcanic domes set in the Cascade Mountains. Hiking, camping, geothermal pools. nps.gov/lavo Point Reyes National Seashore, Point Reyes Rare undeveloped California coastline hosting myriad plant, animal and marine life. Hiking, mountain biking, bird and whale watching. nps.gov/pore Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley Set just outside San Francisco, this old-growth forest leads down to Muir Beach. Hiking only. nps.gov/muwo Alcatraz Island, San Francisco The first lighthouse and fort on the West Coast that later became an (almost) inescapable federal prison. Tours. nps.gov/alca San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park, San Francisco Located at Fisherman’s Wharf, this museum is host to a number of historic sailing vessels. Tours. nps.gov/safr Fort Point National Historic Site, San Francisco A decommissioned fort in the Presidio, you can tour the facility that began guarding the entrance to the Bay during the Civil War. nps.gov/fopo Presidio of San Francisco, San Francisco A former army post, this 1500-acre park contains a museum, national cemetery, historic architecture, miles of coastline and forested hiking trails. Tours, hiking, biking. nps.gov/prsf

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Golden Gate National Recreation Area, San Francisco One of the world’s largest urban parks, the GGNRA encompasses venues from San Mateo to Marin counties and includes such sites as Alcatraz, Sutro Baths, Fort Funston, Crissy Field, Muir Woods and more. Hiking, cycling, camping, water sports, tours. nps.gov/goga

Manzanar National Historic Site, Independence Manzanar served as a relocation center for Japanese citizens during WWII. This internment camp is now a museum that illustrates the land’s past uses. Tours. nps.gov/manz

Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site, Danville The home of the famed American writer is now a museum, and can be visited by reservation only. Tours. nps.gov/euon

Pinnacles National Monument, Paicines These massive monoliths, spires, sheer-walled canyons and talus passages are the remains of an ancient volcano. Hiking, camping, caving, backpacking, tours. nps.gov/pinn

Port Chicago Naval Magazine National Memorial, Concord This memorial to the men and women who lost their lives loading munitions during WWII is located inside the Concord Naval Weapons Station. Tours. nps.gov/poch

Death Valley National Park, Death Valley Three million acres of mountains and desert terrain, Death Valley is also home to abandoned mines, Scotty’s Castle, hiking trails and large stands of Joshua Trees. Hiking, camping, tours. nps.gov/deva

Rosie the Riveter WWII Home Front National Historical Park, Richmond One of the newest national parks, this park honors the men and women who worked behind the scenes during WWII. Includes the SS Red Oak Victory Ship, which is accessible to visitors. Tours. nps.gov/rori

Mojave National Preserve, Barstow Another desert wilderness covering 1.6 million acres, the Mojave is home to sand dunes, volcanic cinder cones, Joshua Tree forests and carpets of wildflowers. Hiking, camping, hunting, tours. nps.gov/moja

John Muir National Historic Site, Martinez John Muir is considered the father of the National Park Service. His home and Mt. Wanda are both part of this historic site. Hiking, tours. nps.gov/jomu Devils Postpile National Monument, Mammoth Lakes Devils Postpile formation is a geologic wonder towering 60 feet high and one of the world’s finest examples of columnar basalt. The area also boasts the 101-foot high Rainbow Falls and pristine mountain scenery. Hiking, camping. nps.gov/depo Yosemite National Park, the Sierra Nevada One of the first wilderness parks in the United States, and now a World Heritage Site, this famous park spans three counties and 760,000 acres. It is host to spectacular waterfalls, mountains, granite cliffs, forests and backcountry. Hiking, rock climbing, camping, backpacking, mountain biking, fishing, water sports, tours. nps.gov/yose Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks, Southern Sierra Nevada in Tulare & Fresno counties Also known as the Land of the Giants, this park is home to huge mountains, rugged foothills, deep canyons, vast caverns, and some of the world’s largest trees. Hiking, camping, backpacking, rock climbing, tours. nps.gov/seki

Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area, Thousand Oaks This park encompasses multiple mountains, parks and open space preserves and is one of the best examples of a Mediterranean climate ecosystem in the world. Hiking, camping, tours. nps.gov/samo Channel Islands National Park, Ventura This park is made up of a chain of five islands located off the Southern California coast and is also a national marine sanctuary. Hiking, camping, snorkeling, kayaking, birdwatching, tours. nps.gov/chis Joshua Tree National Park, Twentynine Palms This desert wilderness, composed of both the Mojave and Colorado deserts, lies atop hundreds of earthquake faults, allowing visitors to see unique rock formations throughout its 789,745 acres. Hiking, camping, backpacking, mountain biking, rock climbing, tours. nps.gov/jotr Cabrillo National Monument, San Diego Celebrating the first European to step on West Coast shores, this park boasts a monument, tidepools, trails, a lighthouse, museum and former military installations. Hiking, bird and whale watching. nps.gov/cabr

» SAN DIEGO San Diego Museum of Art 1450 El Prado, San Diego 619-232-7931 sdmart.org Museum of Photographic Art 1649 El Prado, San Diego 619-238-7559 mopa.org Museum of Contemporary Art 700 Prospect Street, La Jolla 858-454-3541 mcasd.org Mingei International Museum 1439 El Prado, San Diego 619-239-0003 mingei.org LOS ANGELES & ORANGE COUNTY American Museum of Ceramic Art 340 S. Garey Avenue, Pomona 909-865-3146 pomonaartscolony.com/pages/amoca.html California African American Museum 600 State Drive, Exposition Park, Los Angeles 213-744-7432 caamuseum.org California Heritage Museum 2612 Main Street, Santa Monica 310-392-8537 californiaheritagemuseum.org The Huntington Library and Art Collections 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino 626-405-2100 huntington.org The J. Paul Getty Museum 1200 Getty Center Drive, Los Angeles 310-440-7300 getty.edu/museum The Getty Villa 17985 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu 310-440-7300 getty.edu/museum Los Angeles County Museum of Art 5905 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles 323-857-6000 lacma.org Museum of Contemporary Art 250 South Grand Avenue, Los Angeles and The Geffen Contemporary at MOCA 152 North Central Avenue, Los Angeles 213-626-6222 moca.org Norton Simon Museum 411 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena 626-449-6840 nortonsimon.org Orange County Museum of Art 850 San Clemente Drive, Newport Beach 949-759-1122 ocma.net Pasadena Museum of California Art 490 E. Union Street, Pasadena 626-568-3665 pmcaonline.org PALM SPRINGS Coda Gallery 73-151 El Paseo, Palm Desert 1-760-346-4661 codagallery.com/palm_desert Palm Springs Art Museum 101 Museum Drive, Palm Springs 1-760-322-4800 psmuseum.org

ART MUSEUMS SAN JOSE San Jose Museum of Art 110 S. Market Street, San Jose 408-271-6840 sjmusart.org Cantor Arts Center Lomita Drive at Museum Way, Stanford 650-723-4177 museum.stanford.edu Triton Museum of Art 1505 Warburton Avenue, Santa Clara 408-247-3754 tritonmuseum.org Movimiento de Arte y Cultura Latino Americana 510 South 1st Street, San Jose 408-998-2783 maclaarte.org SAN FRANCISCO Asian Art Museum 200 Larkin Street, San Francisco 415-581-3500 asianart.org California Historical Society 678 Mission Street, San Francisco 415-357-1848 californiahistoricalsociety.org Cartoon Art Museum 655 Mission Street, San Francisco 415-227-8666 cartoonart.org The Contemporary Jewish Museum 736 Mission Street, San Francisco 415-655-7800 thecjm.org de Young Museum 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, San Francisco 415-750-3600 deyoung.famsf.org Legion of Honor 100 34th Avenue, San Francisco 415-750-3600 legionofhonor.famsf.org Museum of African Diaspora 685 Mission Street, San Francisco 415-358-7200 moadsf.org Museum of Craft and Folk Art 51 Yerba Buena Lane, San Francisco 415-227-4888 mocfa.org San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA) 151 Third Street, San Francisco 415-357-4000 sfmoma.org Closed for expansion until 2016. Yerba Buena Center for the Arts 701 Mission Street, San Francisco 415-978-2787 ybca.org SACRAMENTO VALLEY Crocker Art Museum 216 O Street, Sacramento 916-808-7000 crockerartmuseum.org 40 Acres Art Gallery & Cultural Center 35th Street & Broadway, Sacramento 916-732-4673 40acresartgallery.org Viewpoint Photographic Art Center 2015 J Street, Sacramento 916-441-2341 viewpointgallery.org John Natsoulas Center for the Arts 521 1st Street, Davis 530-756-3938 natsoulas.com

OAKLAND Oakland Museum of California 1000 Oak Street, Oakland 510-451-3322 museumca.org SANTA BARBARA Santa Barbara Museum of Art 1130 State Street, Santa Barbara 805-963-4364 sbmuseart.org MONTEREY/CARMEL Monterey Museum of Art 559 Pacific Street, Monterey 831-372-5477 montereyart.org Center for Photographic Art San Carlos Street at 9th Avenue, Carmel-by-the-Sea 831-625-5181 photography.org SANTA CRUZ The Museum of Art & History at McPherson Center 705 Front Street, Santa Cruz 831-429-1964 santacruzmah.org MARIN COUNTY Marin Museum of Contemporary Art 500 Palm Drive, Novato 415-506-0137 marinmoca.org SAN LUIS OBISPO San Luis Obispo Museum of Art 1010 Broad Street, San Luis Obispo 805-543-8562 sloma.org IRVINE The Irvine Museum 18881 Von Karman Ave. Suite 100, Irvine 949-476-0294 irvinemuseum.org NAPA di Rosa Preserve 5200 Sonoma Highway, Napa 707-226-5991 dirosaart.org FRESNO Arte Américas 1630 Van Ness, Fresno 559-266-2623 arteamericas.org

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4 SEASONS Mammoth

4 REASONS 1. WINTER: Be lifted to the next level at California’s highest ski and snowboard resort, world-class Mammoth Mountain, standing at 11,053 feet (3,369 m). 2. SPRING: Ski, ﬁsh, golf and bike…. all in the same day! Welcome to springtime in Mammoth Lakes, CA. 3. SUMMER: Stay in California’s Gateway to Natural Wonders and mark off the bucket list visits to: Yosemite National Park, Mono Lake Tufa Reserve, Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest, 101-foot Rainbow Falls and more! You’ll see why we were included in the Lonely Planet’s Top 10 US Travel Destinations. 4. FALL: Photograph fall colors that earned the area a ranking in TravelandLeisure.com’s, ‘America’s Best Fall Color Drives’.

*SAN

FRANCISCO

YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

Winter flights

DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK

LOS ANGELES Year-round flights *ORANGE COUNTY Winter flights *SAN DIEGO Winter flights

Los Angeles ﬂight is year round. All ﬂights subject to change and/or cancellation.

Book your vacation now at: VisitMammoth.com 1-888-GO-MAMMOTH (466-2666)

Visit Mammoth

Non ﬂight -stop Califos from Gatew rnia’s ay Cit ies LO

S ORAN ANGELES , G SAN D E COUNTY SAN F IEGO and , RANC ISCO! *

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