2020 Travel Guide to California

2020 TRAVEL GUIDE TO

californiatravelguide.travel

12

UNIQUE REGIONS TO EXPLORE

17 CULTURAL RICHES

THEATER, MUSEUMS, OPERA, MUSIC

$6.95

DISPLAY UNTIL JUNE 15, 2020

FAVORITE DRIVES TO DISCOVER

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ROMANTIC GETAWAYS EXQUISITE CUISINE BREATHTAKING LANDSCAPES LUXURIOUS SPAS CLASSIC BEACH TOWNS MAGICAL THEME PARKS WHERE TO SHOP, HIKE, BIKE, SKI, SURF

CONTENTS

GET YOUR BEARINGS 8

CALIFORNIA MAP

12

EDITOR’S NOTE

14

A Bird’s-Eye View

DISCOVER California Dreaming

16

HISTORY Land of Immigrants and Entrepreneurs

DISCOVER THE GOLDEN STATE 20

CITIES

50

Surprising Cities

24

SUMMER SPORTS Let’s Get Physical

28

30

Celebrating the Fruit of the Vine

54

CASINOS Deal Me In 58 Chukchansi Gold Resort & Casino

WINTER SPORTS Winter Paradise

WINE COUNTRY

60

MUSEUMS & ART

ON THE COVER Soleil Pool at the Riviera Palm Springs PHOTO: VISIT PALM SPRINGS

State of the Arts

THEME PARKS Nothing But Fun

34

62 SHOPPING A Statewide Bazaar 38 Taubman Shopping Centers 40 The Outlets at Tejon 42 Carmel Plaza

44

ROAD TRIPS

64

CUISINE Dining Out

6 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

STATE & NATIONAL PARKS Naturally Awesome

68

GOLF Tee It Up!

Hit the Road, Jack!

48

PERFORMING ARTS Raise the Curtain

70

SPAS & WELLNESS Indulge Yourself

The Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, top.

EXPLORE CALIFORNIA’S TOURISM REGIONS 74

88

100

24

SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA 78

Berkeley

80

Healdsburg

82

Santa Clara

84

California’s Great America

86

Robert Mondavi Winery

CENTRAL COAST 94

Ventura County Coast

96

Pismo Beach

98

Gilroy

DESERTS 104 Palm Springs

106

SAN DIEGO COUNTY

110

INLAND EMPIRE 114 Ontario

SHASTA COUNTY; VISIT SANTA ROSA; VISIT PASADENA. OPPOSITE: LUCKY-PHOTOGRAPHER/SHUTTERSTOCK

116 Claremont

118

LOS ANGELES COUNTY 124 Lancaster 126 Pasadena

128

ORANGE COUNTY

132

NORTH COAST

50

136 Redwood Coast Parks

138

HIGH SIERRA 142 Mammoth Lakes 144 Lake Tahoe South Shore

148

GOLD COUNTRY

152

CENTRAL VALLEY

156

SHASTA CASCADE

60 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 7

199

Tulelake

Dorris

Fort Dick

Willow Ranch

96

Klamath R.

Crescent City

Del Norte

139

Yreka

Clear Creek

Montague Bray

Lake City

Modoc

Siskiyou

Hackamore

Klamath

299 299

Etna

Weed Mount Shasta

Callahan 3

Dunsmuir

96

Likely

89

Cecilville

SHASTA CASCADE

Nubieber 299

Sacramento R.

Trinidad Lamoine

139

Blue Lake Arcata

Trinity

299

299

Hat Creek

Humboldt

Lassen

Weaverville

Big Bar

Shasta Lake

395

Shasta

Fortuna

Redding

Ferndale 3

Rio Dell

44

44

44

273

36

89

Susanville

Anderson Platina

36

Mineral

36

Blocksburg

Honeydew

Westwood

36

Eel R.

Milford

89

Red Bluff

Taylorsville

Te h a m a

Whitethorn

5

32

Quincy

Corning Paskenta

Leggett

NORTH COAST

Termo

89

70

Plumas

101

Portola Paradise

Orland

Dos Rios

32

49

89

Chico

Loyalton 1

Glenn

Biggs

Willits

Elk 128

Nevada

Gridley Colusa 20

Yu b a

Sutter

Marysville

Yuba City ento Sacram

253

Lakeport

1

49

113

Yo l o

Calistoga

Sebastopol

Saint Helena

Rohnert Park

1

SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA

Davis

Napa

Santa Rosa

5

San Rafael

Berkeley

San Francisco

92

Lathrop

Alameda

Waterford

Stanislaus

49

132

140

Mammoth Lakes

Mariposa

6

Turlock

Mariposa

Madera

Patterson

Sunnyvale

140

Livingston

Santa Clara San Jose 1

Atwater

99

Newman

Merced

Bishop Coarsegold

San Mateo

Los Gatos

Merced

Morgan Hill Santa Cruz

120

Mono

Yosemite Village

Oakdale Riverbank

Modesto

Livermore

Lee Vining 120

120

Ripon

Fremont

Milpitas

Tuolumne City

Manteca 99

Hayward

San Mateo Redwood City

167

Sonora

San Joaquin

Contra Costa

Bridgeport Tuolumne

49

Angels City

Stockton

Alameda

Daly City

395

Calaveras

San Andreas

Concord

Oakland

San Francisco

182 108

Jackson

12

Lodi

Rio Vista

Martinez

4

88

Galt

Solano

Vallejo

HIGH SIERRA

Alpine

Sutter Creek

Ione

160

Fairfield 37

89

Coleville Amador

Sacramento

Napa

Novato

Markleeville 88

16

Vacaville

Marin

Placerville

Sacramento

80

Dixon

Petaluma

50

49

Folsom

Woodland Windsor

El Dorado

Rocklin

Roseville

Sonoma

South Lake Tahoe

Auburn

Lincoln

16

Cloverdale

Lake Tahoe

Colfax

Wheatland

Clearlake

29

Placer

70

R.

128

Point Arena

Nevada City Grass Valley

Colusa

Williams

Truckee

80

Live Oak

45

Lake

Ukiah

Santa Clara

Chowchilla

Fresno

Dos Palos

Gilroy

Santa Cruz Watsonville

Trimmer 99

Firebaugh

San Benito

245

Selma

198

Death Valley

Woodlake Lemoore

King City

136

Dinuba

145

Greenfield

190

Visalia

Hanford 43

198

Cartago Exeter

Tulare

Huron

1

Inyo

Reedley

Kingsburg

Soledad

R.

Owenyo

Parlier

San Joaquin

Gonzales

Kings

Sanger

33

DESERTS

Independence

Clovis

180

Big Sur

190

190

Tulare

Lindsay

127

Haiwee

Coalinga

41

33

198

CENTRAL VALLEY

41

Fresno

Mendota

25

Seaside

395

Madera 33

Hollister

Salinas

Marina

Monterey

168

Lakeshore 168

41

Los Banos 152

Capitola

has 58 counties, whose boundaries are shown on this map. The state’s tourism regions sometimes spill over several counties and in some places jump borders to include portions of counties.

The colored sections on the map show where these regions are.

89 49

70

20

Mendocino

Sierra

Downieville

Butte

Willows

Oroville

Fort Bragg

THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA

GOLD COUNTRY

70

99

208

Monterey

Corcoran

Porterville

178

Johnsondale

Avenal

101

Shoshone

99

Kings

Tecopa Delano

5 1

Searles Valley

McFarland

San Simeon

46

El Paso de Robles

Mountain Mesa

33

Atascadero Morro Bay

41

Shafter Buttonwillow

San Luis Obispo

Ridgecrest

rn R.

Ke 99

43

178

Bakersfield

58

Kern

119

Cima

Arvin

227

Arroyo Grande

California City

14

99

Tehachapi

Taft Maricopa

Afton

1

58

Santa Maria

166

Guadalupe

Boron

33

Santa Barbara

Barstow

San Bernardino

Needles

14 138

Helendale

Lancaster

Lake Hughes

Lompoc

Ludlow

Buellton

Adelanto

Ve n t u r a

33

Santa Barbara San Buenaventura

18

Lake Havasu

138

Hesperia

Simi Valley

Oxnard Agoura Hills

Glendale

Chubbuck

247

Big Bear Lake

La Canada Flintridge

Thousand Oaks 1

Victorville

Los Angeles

Santa Clarita

118

Bagdad

Apple Valley

Palmdale Fillmore

Santa Paula

Essex

40

247

15

Solvang

1

58

Frazier Park

101

CENTRAL COAST

15

C a l i f o r n i a

Saltdale

58

San Luis Obispo Grover Beach

127

178 65

Wasco

41

Pasadena

Fontana

Los Angeles

o R.

Eureka

orad

Orick

Yucca Valley

San Bernardino

30

Col

Orleans

Alturas

Riverside

62

62

Twentynine Palms

62

Rice

Desert Hot Springs 177

LOS ANGELES COUNTY

Palos Verdes Estates

Torrance

Anaheim Santa Ana

Long Beach Huntington Beach

Moreno Valley

Corona

Palm Springs

Hemet

Irvine

Cathedral City Palm Desert

Lake Elsinore

Orange

Riverside

Indio

Desert Center 10

Costa Mesa

Blythe

74

Laguna Niguel

371

1

Oasis 79

78

Carlsbad

Salton Sea

Calipatria

Escondido

Encinitas

15

Poway

Westmorland 79

Imperial

Santee

San Diego Coronado

SAN DIEGO COUNTY

INSIDER’S

» TIP

Imperial

86

San Diego

San Marcos

78

111

Borrego Springs

Vista

Oceanside

El Centro

El Cajon Lemon Grove

Chula Vista

8

98

Brawley

78

Imperial Reservoir

Holtville

Calexico

Imperial Beach

INLAND EMPIRE

BEST BEACHSIDE DINING Innumerable fine watering holes dot California’s famous coastal Highway 1, but take a diversion when you reach San Francisco to head to the Beach Chalet on the Great Highway at Ocean Beach. One of the city’s first brewpubs, the restaurant sits atop a San Francisco history museum with WPA murals from the 1930s on the walls, is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week and has a menu ranging from burgers to seafood to prime rib. In addition, out back facing Golden Gate Park is sister restaurant the Park Chalet. With the Pacific or the park as your options, you can’t go wrong.

8 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

BEACHCHALET.COM

Avalon

ORANGE COUNTY

5

2020 TRAVEL GUIDE TO

CALIFORNIA PRESIDENT & GROUP PUBLISHER ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER EDITOR EXECUTIVE EDITOR ART DIRECTOR WRITERS

CIRCULATION MANAGER DIRECTOR OF FINANCE DIRECTOR OF RETAIL MARKETING

ACCOUNT MANAGERS

CALIFORNIA OFFICE

Joseph P. Turkel

Collier C. Granberry Larry Habegger Judi Scharf Mark Tzerelshtein David Armstrong Christopher P. Baker Laura Del Rosso Christine Delsol Bill Fink John Flinn Don George Marcy Gordon Lenore Greiner Robert Kaufman Maribeth Mellin Laura Ness Jill K. Robinson Michael Shapiro Bonnie Smetts Lavinia Spalding Matt Villano Laurie Weed Jacqueline Yau Julia Wall

Gloria Mungo Craig Sweetman

Collier C. Granberry Joe Turkel 1288 Columbus Ave., Suite 292 San Francisco, CA 94133 TEL: 1-888-700-4464 • FAX: 416-497-0871 E-MAIL: tigc@rogers.com californiatravelguide.travel The Travel Guide to California is published by Globelite Travel Marketing Inc., a leading lifestyle media company and publisher of The Travel Guides to Canada, The Travel Guide to Florida, The Travel Guide to California, and Dreamscapes Travel and Lifestyle Magazine.

CANADIAN OFFICE

Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. 3 Bluffwood Drive Toronto, Ontario M2H 3L4 TEL: 416-497-5353, 1-888-700-4464 FAX: 416-497-0871 E-MAIL: tigc@rogers.com californiatravelguide.travel No part of this publication can be reproduced or duplicated without the written permission of Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. The opinions in this magazine are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the views of Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. Publications Mail Agreement 40047932. Contents © copyright 2020 Printed in Canada ISSN 1926-304X (Print) ISSN 1927-7245 (Online)

EDITOR’S NOTE

A Bird’s-Eye View Sometimes you need to step back to get perspective

A step back can make all the difference, as it did

on the world around you. I thought of this one morning

recently when I attended the 19th annual Hardly Strictly

as I peered out my window seat at 35,000 feet flying over

Bluegrass festival in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park.

the Sierra in Northern California. Below me appeared the

Tucked into meadows surrounded by forest, the multiple

gray-white granite peaks of the Desolation Wilderness

stages hosted performances from across the musical

just west and south of Lake Tahoe, their flanks dotted

spectrum over three days. No alcohol sales are permitted

with pine forest, jewel-like lakes nestled in their crevices.

so there’s little rowdiness, music lovers can roam about

It took me a moment to identify the landmarks, but soon

at will, and it’s free. As I tapped my toes to the Celtic-rock

I recognized the lakes I’d hiked among just a few months

band The Waterboys, I realized what a gift this was to the

earlier. My wife and I had backpacked past Loon Lake and

city from the late Warren Hellman. Tens of thousands of

Buck Island Lake to Rockbound Lake where we spent

people enjoy this festival every year.

three nights basking in the joys of the natural world. From

As you contemplate plans to visit California, no doubt

my airplane seat I could see how rugged that terrain was,

you’ll find your own “birds’-eye views” that will help you

and I remembered how much effort it took to get to the

appreciate the experiences before you. Beach lovers,

spot that had become home for a few days. Seeing it from

wine connoisseurs, foodies, fans of opera and theater

afar made that journey all the more memorable.

and dance, cyclists and climbers and surfers and all who

out places to get a bird’s-eye view. The top of Mount Tamal-

love the great outdoors will discover the gifts this state has to offer.

pais (known locally as Mount Tam) in Marin County just

In these pages we help you prepare, with profiles of the

north of San Francisco helped me understand the geog-

state’s main tourism regions, essays on history, cuisine,

raphy of the Bay Area as well as the grandeur of the Pacific

museums, theme parks and many other topics.

Ocean sweeping across the view to the west. Castle Crags

Just about any interest is represented in California. As

State Park in the Shasta Cascade region presented the dom-

you immerse yourself in your favorite activities,

inance of Mount Shasta, that dramatic volcanic peak that

remember to take a step back from time to time. It’ll give

towers above the surrounding countryside. Glacier Point,

you some perspective and help you doubly appreciate the

the top of Half Dome and Olmsted Point show you Yosemite

experience. It might even turn your trip into something

National Park in ways certain to soothe your soul, as do

you’ll never forget.

other peaks and overlooks in the central and southern Sierra and the coastal ranges all the way to Mexico.

12 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

—LARRY HABEGGER, Editor

ÉRNE Mc CABE

When I first arrived in California decades ago, I sought

DISCOVER California Dreaming The Golden State offers a world’s worth of experiences to savor

BY DON GEORGE

PACIFIC OCEAN The world’s largest ocean, the fabled Pacific, embraces California’s entire western boundary. It’s a place to dream, to ponder life’s possibilities and endless mysteries, and a place to play. Surfers

THE SEDUCTIVE STATE OF CALIFORNIA

hikers and bicyclists in summer. This region

is large in every sense of the word. It’s the

is home to Mount Whitney, the tallest

body surfers splash in her surf; kayakers

most populous state in the U.S. and the third

mountain in the “Lower 48” and a mecca for

explore her coves and shore breaks;

largest in terms of geographical size. Its

climbers, topping off at 14,505 feet. Among

children of all ages wade in her froth

economy ranks fifth in the entire world.

California’s most moving experiences are

and comb her beaches. Life happens on

When it comes to visitor attractions, Cali-

walking through the natural cathedral of

the edge of the Pacific, where the sun

fornia presents travelers with as wide a range

Muir Woods and camping in the granite

shines, and sets in ethereal colors.

of riches as many countries. Whether you’re

grandeur of Yosemite National Park.

ride the sea’s prodigious waves; sailors ply her waters; boogie boarders and

Here, the iconic Bixby Creek Bridge carries Highway 1, also known as the Pacific Coast Highway, or PCH, across the chasm at Big Sur.

passionate about natural activities, cultural

For boaters, birders and fishermen,

pursuits or dining and wining, the Golden

there’s Lake Shasta, home to an abundance

State has diverse delights to entice you.

of fish and fowl. For whitewater fans, more than a dozen rivers, including the mighty

14 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Outdoor Adventurer

American

If you’re a nature lover and active adventurer,

thrilling rides. Kayakers and canoers find

you’ll be dazzled by the state’s spectacular

paradise in Point Reyes National Seashore

spectrum. On the western edge there’s the

in the north and watery wonders at Morro

Pacific Ocean, the largest body of water in the

Bay on the central coast.

Sacramento,

provide

world, perfect for surfing, sailing and swim-

In the southern part of the state, visitors

ming. In the east there are the magnificent

savor the sere splendors of the Mojave Desert

mountains of the Sierra Nevada, a haven for

and Death Valley, the lowest point in North

skiers and snowboarders in winter and

America, 282feet below sea level. If tide pooling

JON BILOUS/ SHUTTERSTOCK

and

tempts you, Shaw’s Cove tide pools in the

comedy and even onstage conversations, are

itors the opportunity to pay to pick their

Laguna Beach State Marine Reserve and the Ter-

presented at Oakland’s ornately Art Deco

own strawberries, peaches or plums and

ranea tide pools in the Point Vicente State

Paramount Theatre. Another multi-faceted

savor the sweetness of just-plucked fruit.

Marine Conservation Area in Rancho Palos

venue lovingly restored to its former glory is

Some farms even offer travelers the chance

Verdes showcase sea anemones, crabs, urchins,

Fresno’s Warnors Center for the Performing

to stay and work, which reveals from the

sea slugs, sea stars and more. The five islands of

Arts, listed on the National Register of His-

inside the rites and rhythms of modern

Channel Islands National Park, accessible only

toric Places and distinguished by a pipe

farm life.

by boat or plane from Ventura and Oxnard, pro-

organ that replicates the sound of a full

vide a peaceful, pristine home for more than

orchestra.

2,000 plant and animal species, including 145 found nowhere else on the planet.

California is the birthplace of California Cuisine, of course, a culinary

From the Siskiyou County Museum in

revolution spearheaded by Berkeley’s

Yreka to the San Diego Museum of Art,

Alice Waters—whose Chez Panisse is still

museums and galleries celebrating history,

serving extraordinary food 49 years after

Cultural Connoisseur

human endeavor and artistic heritage

it opened. That revolution has spawned

If you love culture, you’ll find a treasure

abound throughout the state. Creative

numerous other channels of creative culi-

trove of activities in the Golden State, from

exploring will yield access to small-scale

nary freshness and fusion, blending

museum and art gallery exhibitions to

museums that specialize in everything

Asian, European and Latin American

shops showcasing contemporary handi-

from comics and cable cars to surfing and

ingredients and traditions, which are

crafts and timeworn antiques, and from

sewing. Other outstanding educational

showcased throughout the state. As

performances of theater, dance and music

institutions that focus on interactive

Alice Waters and her followers focused

to displays at aquariums and hands-on edu-

experiences include the Monterey Bay

attention on local purveyors, food-related

cation centers.

Aquarium, the California Academy of

opportunities for travelers expanded. One

Sciences and the Exploratorium.

result today is the California Cheese Trail,

For music, the world-class concert halls of Los Angeles and San Francisco are well-

an interactive website and printable map

known, but equally appealing are smaller

Food Aficionado

(cheesetrail.org) that features artisanal

sites such as the Redlands Bowl in the Inland

For food aficionados, California is a won-

cheese makers throughout the state.

Empire city of Redlands, where an elegant

derland of tastes, textures and innovative

Wine trails have long drawn travelers to

amphitheater spotlights California’s oldest

culinary creations. One of the most

California, but these have expanded as well

free concert series, presenting everything

delightful and enlightening experiences is

in recent years. In addition to world-

from classical music to bluegrass bands each

visiting a farmers market, where fresh-

renowned regions such as Napa and

summer, or the Joan and Sanford I. Weill Hall

from-the-farm

on

Sonoma, up-and-coming areas that offer

on the California State University Sonoma

delicious display and fresh-from-the-field

their own winery routes include Liver-

campus, where warm-weather concert-goers

farmers will be happy to offer samples and

more, Paso Robles, Ventura, Madera and

can spread a blanket on the terraced lawn for

stories. Farmers markets can now be found

Temecula.

an alfresco music fest.

throughout the state. As a further out-

Whatever interest has drawn you to

performances,

growth of the popularity of these markets,

California, you’ll find almost infinite rea-

including ballet, theater, variety shows,

more and more farms are now offering vis-

sons to be seduced and stay.

A

lively

variety

of

produce

will

be

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 15

HISTORY

BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

Land of Immigrants and Entrepreneurs

THE GOLD RUSH The California Gold Rush (1848-1855) brought a tide of people to the state and turned the sleepy hamlet of San Francisco into an “instant city.” Later, in 1859, miners discovered gold in Mono County east of the Sierra Nevada, where the town of Bodie swelled to 10,000 people in 1880. The mill and houses in Bodie State Historic Park, above, date to 1861. Today, Bodie is a well-preserved ghost town.

16 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

The Spanish Franciscan friar blessing an

California is the “America” of America. This

adobe church at Mission Basilica San Diego

was so even in pre-history, when the first

de Alcalá in 1769; the Chilean miner trying

migrants from Asia crossed the land bridge

his luck panning for gold in a cold Sierra

between Siberia and Alaska, hung a right,

cataract in 1849; the Chinese laborer

walked southward, found pastures of plenty,

crossing the heaving Pacific to work on the

rich marine life and heart-stoppingly beau-

transcontinental railroad in 1869; the

tiful mountains and either decided to keep

African American leaving the South to build

walking or stop right where they were.

warships on the Oakland waterfront in

The place wasn’t called California then,

1942; the Haight-Ashbury hippie with her

of course. That came later, the name taken

wakeful dreaming in San Francisco’s

from a 16th-century Spanish novel and used

Summer of Love in 1967; the Indian engi-

by explorers, soldiers and missionaries,

neer launching a high-tech startup in Palo

who were themselves starting over in the

Alto in 2020, all have something in

New World. The Spanish built 21 Roman

common: starting over.

Catholic missions, from San Diego in the

The United States is said to be a place

south to Sonoma in the north, from 1769 to

where the world comes to begin again—to

1823. In converting native communities to

reinvent itself, in the current coinage. If so,

Christianity, the newcomers overwhelmed

BJUL/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: SERGEY NOVIKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK; WIKIMEDIA COMMONS; MARIUSZ S. JURGIELEWICZ/SHUTTERSTOCK; MEUNIERD/SHUTTERSTOCK

California has always sparked new beginnings and innovation

»

NATURE’S EXTREMES

The highest point in the continental United States, 14,505-foot Mount Whitney, and the lowest point, 282 feet below sea level in Death Valley, are about 100 miles apart in Southern California.

native cultures. Of necessity, the Native Americans started over in a bewildering new world.

In 1821, Mexico, with its remote northernmost province, Alta California, wrenched itself free of the Spanish Empire. In 1833, the missions were secularized by the Mexican government and abandoned. Their buildings moldered, their pioneering vineyards and olive groves were eventually overgrown and forgotten. Not until the 20th century were the missions restored and revived. Many flourish today as redoubts of history and contemporary worship, handsome, evocative reminders of the first major European presence.

The Gold Rush Alta California grew slowly in its isolation. That changed on January 24, 1848, with the discovery of gold on the American River. The California Gold Rush, beginning in earnest in 1849, gave fortune-seekers a second—some said a last—chance

THE STARK BUT BEAUTIFUL landscape of Death Valley, top; a souvenir from the Panama Pacific International Exposition of 1915, above; Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo, also known as the Carmel Mission, right; the Gaslamp Quarter in San Diego, below.

to make good. Half-a-million newcomers—many from Europe, Asia, Latin America and Africa— globalized California in a hurry. The Mexican descendants of Spanish settlers—the Californios, with their sprawling ranchos and lives attuned to the slow turning of the seasons—were swept aside, left to start over.

Many 49ers stayed on and found another kind of gold: richly productive new lives in a place where beginning afresh—personally, financially, even spiritually—was already a common rite of passage. In 1850, pried loose by the U.S. victory in the Mexican War and accelerated by the Gold Rush, California became the 31st state of the United States. New Californians brought the new Golden State into being, plowing its fields, founding its great universities, building its cities.

California’s lustrous reputation was tarnished on the morning of April 18, 1906, when a massive

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 17

HISTORY

»

ARTICHOKE QUEEN

Castroville, an agricultural town of 6,500 in Monterey

earthquake rocked Northern California and

California’s story since World War II has

artichoke center of the world, is

leveled much of San Francisco; what the

featured growth and more growth. Com-

home to expansive fields

rolling, rumbling ground didn’t knock down,

bined with in-country migration, global

planted with this tasty member

the ensuing firestorm burned down. Some

immigration made California the most pop-

of the thistle family. The

3,000 people died. Now, it was San Francisco’s

ulous state in the Union in 1962.

annual Castroville Artichoke

turn to start over. San Francisco dramatized

Food and Wine Festival, featuring the likes of fried, sautéed and grilled artichokes, along with music and threedimensional “vegetable art,’’

its recovery, and celebrated the new Panama

A Center for Change

Canal linking the Atlantic and the Pacific,

From the 1960s on, California has been, in

with the splendidly showy Panama-Pacific

a positive sense, the most disruptive state

International Exposition of 1915.

in the nation. Student political activism, the hip counter-culture and early awaken-

takes place May 30-31 at the Monterey County Fairgrounds.

The Rise of Hollywood

ings of the New Age movement found

In 1948, Castroville crowned

Just two years after that optimistic display,

fertile ground in California. The in-season,

visiting starlet Norma Jean

the nation plunged into World War I. After

sustainable, slow-food movement arguably

Baker as California’s Artichoke

the war ended in 1918, still more migrants

took root fastest in California. American

rushed to California. In 1920, Los Angeles

environmentalism in large part began in

(and much later San Diego and San Jose)

California, when Scottish immigrant John

surged past San Francisco in population.

Muir founded the Sierra Club in San Fran-

The orange groves and dusty byways of old

cisco back in 1892 and took President

Los Angeles began morphing into “LA”—

Theodore Roosevelt camping amid the nat-

more specifically, and more mythically,

ural wonders of Yosemite Valley in 1903.

Queen. Norma Jean later won fame under her new name, Marilyn Monroe.

“Hollywood.”

From the 1980s on, Silicon Valley has

Actors, writers, directors and producers

joined Hollywood as a creative lodestar for

streamed to Los Angeles, growing a quiet

the whole planet. In the present decade,

cottage industry of silent motion pictures

Silicon Valley reachednorthward, dramati-

into a technologically advanced business.

cally transforming the economy and even

Stars were born in a place that came to be

the culture of San Francisco. The high-tech-

called “the dream factory.” Not a few of the

nology world has enshrined risk-taking,

Dust Bowl migrants who left the drought-

innovation, learning from failure and—you

stricken Midwest for California in the 1930s

guessed it—starting over. Quoting another

got their first impressions of their new

California innovation, the 1960s Whole

home from the dream-weavers of Holly-

Earth Catalog, Apple’s Steve Jobs urged

HOLLYWOODLAND, a housing

wood. In the 1940s, creative people from

Stanford University graduates in a com-

development established in 1923 marked

Europe such as Billy Wilder and Thomas

mencement speech in 2005 to “stay hungry,

by this sign on Beachwood Drive, top, was

Mann, fleeing fascism and war to begin

stay foolish.”

the inspiration for the famous Hollywood

anew, lent the movies an Old World artistic

sign; Marilyn Monroe, above.

sensibility.

18 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Californians, across centuries and cultures, always have.

JOHNNY HABELL/SHUTTERSTOCK; LUCIAN MILASAN/SHUTTERSTOCK

County that calls itself the

CITIES

BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

Surprising Cities

DESIGN CENTRAL

California’s golden cities—Los Angeles,

cocktails and zinc-topped bars and you get

Arrive Hotel, above, fits right in with the Uptown Design District in the heart of Palm Springs. This popular neighborhood features designer boutiques, vintage shops, open-air restaurants and lively lounges all set against a backdrop of mountains.

San Francisco, San Diego—are celebrated

the picture. The Hollywood connection is

around the world, and rightly so. But the

still strong—the Palm Springs International

Golden State boasts an engaging range of

Film Festival organizes screenings and

things to see and do in less-well-known

throws star-studded parties every January.

locales, as well. In cities ranging in size

The city’s signature Mid-Century Modern

from 3,000 inhabitants to 181,000, a sur-

architecture, all glass and steel and angular

prising, eclectic menu of food and drink,

lines, is a major attraction. Every February,

art and architecture, history and sports is

Modernism Week features house tours and

available to visitors.

more. The Palm Springs Art Museum showcases accomplished 20th-century artists

20 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

PALM SPRINGS: Art, Design, & Hipster Chic

such as abstract expressionist painters

This desert resort community of 48,000 has

well. If you tire of poolside lounging, the

been a party town since Hollywood lumi-

Aqua Caliente Native American band over-

naries discovered it in the 1940s. In recent

sees 60-plus miles of hiking trails in nearby

years, Palm Springs has added hipster

Indian Canyons. For 360 degree views of the

chic—think cutting-edge clothing and

Coachella Valley, check out the rotating cars

design shops, rooftop hotel fire pits, craft

of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway.

Helen Frankenthaler and Robert Mother-

VISIT PALM SPRINGS. OPPOSITE: VISIT BERKELEY; VISIT GILROY; JAMIE PHAM

Big fun in smaller towns

BERKELEY STREET SCENE, left; Gourmet Alley at the Gilroy Garlic Festival, below; Pasadena at sunset, bottom.

PASADENA: Rose Bowl & Bungalows

in revived 22-block Old Pasadena. The

chef Thomas Keller’s French Laundry rou-

Located 10 miles northeast of downtown

Huntington combines a distinguished

tinely wins Michelin’s top 3-star rating, and

Los Angeles at the foot of the imposing San

library, priceless fine-art collection and

half a dozen other acclaimed Yountville

Gabriel Mountains, this pretty city of

extensive and beautiful botanical gardens.

eateries are not far behind. Compact and

141,000 is best-known for the Granddaddy

Don’t miss the landmarked 1925 Pasadena

flat, Yountville is ideal for renting bikes

of ’em All, the annual Rose Bowl football

Playhouse, California’s official state theater.

and pedaling past the vineyards—when you’re not soaring over them in a hot-air

game, as well as the ever-popular Tourna-

balloon. It’s also easily walkable; strolling

parody, the whimsical Doo-Dah Parade.

YOUNTVILLE: Vineyards & Exquisite Dining

Some 800 restored early 20th-century Arts

This manicured Napa Valley town of 3,000

homes and shops is a great way to while

& Crafts wooden bungalows, clustered in

doesn’t really have more restaurant

away the hours. The V Marketplace, 6235

the Bungalow Heaven Historic District, give

Michelin-stars than people; it only feels

Washington Street, adroitly combines

Pasadena its defining architectural look.

that way. Starting in the 1980s, Yountville

shopping and dining. One unique choice

Shopping and dining are abundant along

began building a reputation for fine food to

for lodging is the 4-star Napa Valley

pedestrian-friendly South Lake Avenue and

match Napa’s fine wines. These days, star

Railway Inn, composed of comfortably

ment of Roses Parade and a delightful

downtown past neatly kept Victorian

CITIES HOLIDAY CELEBRATION in Mammoth Lakes, right; tall ship Hawaiian Chieftain with the Carson Mansion in the background, Eureka, bottom; shopping in Rancho Cucamonga, Ontario, opposite.

refurbished vintage railroad cars along unused railroad tracks. Grab a cup of joe at the adjoining Yountville Coffee Caboose.

BERKELEY: The Arts & More Long famed for its commitment to brainiac inquiry and social activism, Berkeley, on the eastern shores of San Francisco Bay, doubles as a richly diverse travel destination. The college town of 120,000 boasts unique shops and restaurants along Fourth Street in west Berkeley, and shopping, theater, music and movie-going downtown on

original 1966 Peet’s Coffee & Tea shop and

the dry, hot climate and palm-lined land-

and off south Shattuck Avenue. The expan-

many more, is arrayed on and near north

scaping

sive University of California campus

Shattuck Avenue. The cross-town Elmwood

California. Incorporated in 1891 and named

includes first-rate entertainment venues

neighborhood on College Avenue offers a

for the Canadian province of Ontario, it was

and athletic contests ranging from intercol-

relaxed village ambiance.

once home to citrus orchards and health

that

characterize

Southern

passions such as men’s and women’s rugby,

ONTARIO: Family Fun and a SoCal Flare

climate. Today’s city economy is driven by

played at jewel box Witter Field. The

Located 35 miles southeast of Los Angeles

super-shippers Fed Ex and United Parcel

Gourmet Ghetto, with classic California-

where Interstates 10 and 15 meet, this San

Service. But Ontario isn’t all about business.

American restaurant Chez Panisse, the

Bernardino County city of 181,000 features

It emphasizes family fun, epitomized by the annual Pancake Breakfast and Car Show (10,000 attendees, 400 cars) on the first Saturday in June, and the nearly century-old Christmas on Euclid (Avenue), with its Christmas-in-the-desert decorations, holiday snacks, live music and traditional nativity scenes. The NBA’s G League Agua Caliente Clippers take to the basketball hardwoods in the 11,000-seat Toyota Arena.

MAMMOTH LAKES: Adventure Year Round Forty miles from Yosemite National Park at 7,880 feet above sea level, the alpine community of Mammoth Lakes is a prime place to enjoy year-round recreation in the eastern Sierra Nevada. In summer, you can go horseback riding in the Ansel Adams

22 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

REDWOOD COAST; DAKOTA SNIDER/VISIT MAMMOTH. OPPOSITE: MONKEY BUSINESS IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK

retreats promoting the benefits of the dry

legiate football and basketball to niche

than at the annual Gilroy Garlic Festival

2nd and M streets. Shops, restaurants and

(July 24-26). Gilroy, a city of 58,000 at the

B&Bs occupy some of the staggering 1,500

southern end of the Santa Clara Valley, both

Eureka buildings listed on the National

honors the valley’s agricultural roots and

Register of Historic Places. One million-

offers visitors a wide range of activities.

acre Six Rivers National Forest is a near

Gilroy Premium Outlets, 1.6 miles north of

neighbor. Tall conifers grow in the forest’s

Wilderness; taking to the lake waters to

downtown on the east side of US Route 101,

mountainous terrain. The Trinity, Klamath

enjoy paddle-boarding in the gorgeous

hosts 145 factory outlet stores selling

and Smith rivers, among others, offer

Mammoth Lakes Basin is another popular

famous brands at steeply discounted prices.

whitewater rafting, fishing and kayaking.

must-do, as is walking in alpine meadows

City-owned Gilroy Gardens combines well-

Camping is available, usually by reserva-

speckled with wildflowers. In the fastness

kept landscaping with water features and

tion, on terra firma.

of winter, skiing comes into its own;

charmingly old-school theme park rides

indeed, Mammoth Mountain Ski Area,

such as paddleboats and a carousel on 530

averaging 400 inches of snowfall a year,

engaging acres. Downtown Gilroy is the

boasts some of the West’s best skiing and

city’s traditional core. A Welcome to Gilroy

snowboarding. If taking it easy amid out-

kiosk at Monterey and Fifth streets offers

door splendors is more to your liking, take

free maps to the Gilroy Historic Paseo,

in 360-degree views of the eastern Sierra

which winds past the restaurants and shops

from a gondola on your way to the 11,053-

on lively Monterey Street.

foot summit of Mammoth Mountain. For a community of just 8,100 residents, Mam-

EUREKA: Redwoods & Victorians

moth Lakes offers plenty of urban

Tucked into the northwestern corner of

pleasures, too. Among them: partying to

California, 270 miles north of San Francisco

blues music and sampling some of the 50

on Humboldt Bay, Eureka has the largest

craft beers at the annual summer Mam-

deep-water port between San Francisco Bay

moth Festival of Beers and Bluesapalooza.

and Washington’s Puget Sound. The city of 27,000 also serves as the unofficial capital

GILROY: Garlic, Outlet Shopping & a Historic Paseo

of the state’s Redwood Empire. Once famed

Billing itself as the Garlic Capital of the

Eureka is a leading West Coast purveyor of

World, Gilroy celebrates every imaginable

succulent farmed oysters. Most signifi-

edible aspect of the “stinking rose,” from

cantly for visitors, Eureka nurtures an

garlic-flavored ice cream and wine to irre-

attractive preserve of Victorian architecture

sistible garlic-speckled fries, never more so

such as the grand 1886 Carson Mansion at

for its timber, mines and fisheries, today’s

YOUR » FIND CITY FUN Palm Springs visitpalmsprings.com Pasadena visitpasadena.com Yountville yountville.com Berkeley visitberkeley.com Ontario gocvb.org Mammoth Lakes visitmammoth.com Gilroy visitgilroy.com Eureka visiteureka.com

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 23

SUMMER SPORTS

BY BILL FINK

Let’s Get Physical

SPORTS AT MAMMOTH LAKES Mammoth Lakes in the eastern Sierra southeast of Yosemite is a hive of summer activity, whether it be organized charity rides such as Biking Against Cancer, above, or individual hiking, fishing, backpacking or other outdoor adventures.

The California ideal of sun, surf and sand

Drive the hills near San Francisco on a

has been popularized in decades of film

sunny weekend afternoon and you’ll pass

and TV shows, from Beach Blanket Bingo to

pelotons of road bikers, and hikers, horse-

Baywatch. But visitors to California in the

back riders and mountain bikers launching

summer can discover even more of the

onto trailheads. In the shadow of the

state’s natural beauty heading inland to

Golden Gate Bridge, fleets of sailboats ride

majestic national parks.

ocean breezes, while the wind powers kiteboarders and windsurfers into acrobatics as

24 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Sports

joggers with their dogs enjoy the spectacle

Stroll along Manhattan Beach in Southern

from shoreline pathways. North and south,

California on any given day and you’ll see

young and old, Californians love their

surfers whipping around the waves, volley-

sports, and the state provides limitless

ball players diving in the sand, and bikers

opportunities to ply your favorite or try a

and skateboarders rolling along the Strand.

new one.

JOSH WRAY/WRAYMEDIA.COM. OPPOSITE: VRON BERG; TRINITY COUNTY; SHASTA COUNTY

Seashores, mountains, lakes, rivers and deserts provide glorious fun and adventure

SURFERS AT SANTA BARBARA beach, right; river rafting in Trinity County, center; hiking at Castle Crags, Shasta County, bottom.

On Land California has some of the world’s best golf, including the legendary seaside Pebble Beach Golf Links, home of Bill Murray’s favorite

annual

event,

the

AT&T

National Pro-Am tournament. Or try any one of the hundreds of public and private clubs scattered across the state. If you aren’t into the clubs, grab a frisbee and try some disc golf at one of the more than 200 California courses.

Mountain and road biking are great ways to get a workout while experiencing the state’s landscape, whether it be from tricky single-track downhill trails around Lake Tahoe, flatter cross-country trips or perhaps an urban ride using the San Francisco Bay Area’s “Bay Wheels” bike rental program. Skateboarding is practically the state sport, with skate parks seen everywhere from the sport’s birthplace at Venice Beach to the smallest inland town.

For a different sort of ride, make like native son John Wayne and saddle up for some horseback riding on trails near cities, around dude ranches or on multiday wilderness journeys into the Sierra Nevada mountains. If desert sands don’t appeal to you, try those on the beaches of Southern California that are lined with volleyball nets for pickup games and professional tournaments. California sunshine is also good for year-round tennis, whether on public courts or at a posh resort.

And the fitness-focused culture of California provides plenty of opportunities to join outdoor workout “bootcamps” and yoga sessions in city parks.

In Water California has more than 840 miles of coastline along the Pacific Ocean, a prime

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 25

SUMMER SPORTS CLIMBING TWIN CRAGS in Tahoe City, with Lake Tahoe in the distance, right; beach volleyball at Santa Monica, below.

launching spot for every manner of water

many lake- and ocean-side shops. Catalina

from multi-day backpacking trips for the

sport, including surfing, sailing, SCUBA

Island and the kelp forests of Monterey Bay

hardy in remote areas such as the Marble

and

Stand-up paddle

are popular for SCUBA diving, but be sure

Mountain Wilderness to relaxed, hour-

boarding rentals and lessons are offered at

to wear a wetsuit in the chilly Pacific

long walking tours through the gentle

waters. Surf breaks range from 50-

winding paths of Muir Woods, easily acces-

foot monster waves in Half Moon Bay to

sible from nearby San Francisco.

»

kayaking.

FIND YOUR FUN

Biking bikecal.com baywheels.com labikepaths.com sfbike.org

more gentle rollers off Manhattan Beach.

A trip to the bubbling volcanic pools at

Marinas dot the coast from north to south,

Lassen Volcanic National Park or to the

where experienced sailors can rent power

Dr. Seuss-like flora of Joshua Tree can make

yachts for deep-sea-fishing expeditions or

visitors feel they’re on another planet,

sailboats to ride the winds.

while sunset in Yosemite Valley with views

California’s freshwater sports include sport fishing at hundreds of the state’s rivers

of towering waterfalls can make it seem like you’re in heaven.

and lakes, and whitewater rafting and

California’s many mountains offer infi-

Boating dbw.ca.gov

kayaking in rivers awash in melted moun-

nite paths upward, whether it’s a hike

tain snows. Those looking for a gentle river

up 14,505-foot Mount Whitney (the highest

Climbing mountainproject.com/area/105708959/ california rockclimbing.org

float on an inner tube with a beer cooler can

point in the continental U.S.) or technical

still find their spots. Boating is popular

rock climbing routes from the easy to the

with waterskiers and wakeboarders across

extreme in legendary areas such as Yosemite,

the Sacramento Delta and at a huge number

Joshua Tree and Pinnacles national parks.

Golf pga.com/golf-courses/details/CA

of marinas on lakes and reservoirs throughout the state.

Disc Golf pdga.com

California’s state flag features a bear, and you may see some among the wildlife during your outdoor journeys. Black bears,

The Great Outdoors

mountain lions, rattlesnakes and coyotes

Horseback Riding horseandtravel.com/states/ california.html

California boasts 32 national parks,

put the “wild” in California wildlife, but

seashores and monuments, 280 state parks

careful visitors should have no problem

and a vast swath of designated wilderness,

with them. Abundant migratory and native

SCUBA

nature preserves and other outdoor play-

birdlife makes California a prime birding

californiadiver.com

grounds. With landscapes ranging from the

destination, while at sea, whale watching is

Stand-Up Paddle Boarding

sheer cliffs of Yosemite to the searing

a perennial tourist favorite. Even without

paddling.com/paddle/locations

deserts of Death Valley and the scenic

an organized tour, visitors can walk to view

shorelines of the Channel Islands, Cali-

sea lions on San Francisco and Santa Cruz

fornia offers a lifetime’s worth of outdoor

piers, and observe sea otters playing in the

adventures. Exploration options range

surf at Monterey.

Surfing surfingcalifornia.com

26 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

HUNTINGTON BEACH CVB; PLACER COUNTY/ERIK BERGEN

sea

WINTER SPORTS

BY BILL FINK

Winter Paradise

SKIING CALIFORNIA Snow play isn’t usually foremost in people’s minds when they think of California, but the state has some of the best skiing in the West. Mammoth Mountain is a magnet for skiers from Southern California, and the area around Lake Tahoe offers more ski resort options than anywhere in North America.

Southern California has long been

Angeles. But for those seeking winter sports,

known as a warm-weather winter vacation

there may be no better place on earth than

area, with sports and outdoor activities

the mountains surrounding Lake Tahoe.

centered in San Diego and Los Angeles and

The area hosted the 1960 Winter Olympics

desert retreats like Palm Springs. But the

at Squaw Valley and continues to be home

mountains of Lake Tahoe, Mammoth Lakes

base for many U.S. Winter Olympians who

and Yosemite and across the Sierra Nevada

bang moguls, rip the half-pipes and race on

range beckon winter visitors who want to

downhill runs at more than a dozen area ski

embrace snow-based sports and recreation.

resorts. For the regular skiers out there, California’s beginner ski trails, group lessons

28 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Sports

and smaller hills offer a safe introduction to

In winter, Southern California is still an

the sport.

oasis for outdoor sports and adventure,

Tahoe-area ski resorts including Squaw

from golf to tennis, hiking and horseback

Valley, Northstar and Heavenly also offer ice

riding, whether in the still-baking desert

skating rinks and inner tube runs for those

around Palm Springs or the perpetually

looking for alternate winter activities, best

pleasant vacationland of San Diego or Los

complemented with a fire pit and toasted

TODD ROBERTSON. OPPOSITE: GALINA BARSKAYA/SHUTTERSTOCK; DELAWARE NORTH AT YOSEMITE

Outdoors appeal in any season

FAMILY ICE SKATING at Curry Village ice rink, Yosemite, right; a snowboarder gets some air above Lake Tahoe, bottom; skiing Mammoth Lakes, opposite.

for

biling provides high-octane motor sport

springs around Mammoth Lakes provide

dessert. Cross-country skiing and snow-

fun, while dogsledding is a way to enjoy a

toasty outdoor relaxation with a view of

shoeing courses dot the Tahoe region,

different sort of ride with some furry

snowcapped mountains. Or, perhaps bundle

offering a brisk aerobic workout amidst pine

friends. The adventurous can try remote

up and climb a mountain for prime star-

forests and sweeping mountain scenery.

back-country skiing and Alpine Touring

gazing opportunities in the crisp and clear

South of Tahoe, Mammoth Mountain

trips via helicopter, snowcat or just hard

mountain air, then add a few more layers and

boasts a world-class ski resort, while Big

work. Ice climbing and hut-to-hut hiking in

try some ice fishing on a high alpine lake.

Bear Mountain offers skiing within a rea-

the Sierra Nevada mountains can also feed

sonable commute from Los Angeles,

one’s winter hunger for adrenaline.

marshmallows

and

hot

cocoa

spot many animals migrating south to follow the sun. From massive gray whales

enabling sports fanatics to surf and ski in a single day. Beyond the ski resorts, snowmo-

Winter also is the time when visitors can

The Great Outdoors

to miniature monarch butterflies, flocks of

Step away from organized resort sports and

birds in the central wetlands and pods of

there’s still a wealth of winter outdoor

seals come to mate on the shores of the

activities in California. The bears may be

Pacific, the world’s wildlife also seem to

hibernating but that doesn’t mean you have

think that California’s outdoors is a great

to as well. Avoiding the hot summer

place to visit in winter.

months means visitors can enjoy temperate winter hiking and camping opportunities in desert parks such as Death Valley, Joshua Tree and around Palm Springs (be forewarned that the nights can still get frigid).

YOUR » FIND SPORT

Prior to snowfall, the Sierra Nevada mountain forests are alight with colorful fall foliage, making a hike through the hills a prime “shoulder season” activity.

Wintertime provides an escape from the summer crowds often found in Yosemite National Park. Visit the near-empty wilderness to enjoy a quiet blanket of snow covering towering cliffs, the sun glistening off frozen waterfalls and the muffled clomping sound of guided snowshoe tours— and then retire to one of their lodges for

Skiing snow-online.com/cross-country/california snow-online.com/ski-resorts/california Hiking/Camping travelyosemite.com nps.gov/state/ca www.parks.ca.gov Wildlife whalewatching.com/california audubon.org/news/birding-california wildlife.ca.gov

special winter food and wine events. Hot

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 29

THEME PARKS

BY MATT VILLANO

Nothing But Fun

AMUSEMENT PARKS Europeans started the concept of amusement parks centuries ago with fairs and pleasure gardens created for people’s recreation. The world’s oldest amusement park is Bakken, just north of Copenhagen, Denmark, which opened in 1583. The oldest theme park in the United States is Holiday World & Splashin’ Safari (called Santa Claus Land from its opening in 1946 until 1984) in Santa Claus, Indiana. California’s theme parks date from 1950.

30 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Diversions are as plentiful as sunshine

remains the best way to experience stunt

in California. One of the most popular out-

demonstrations and staged events (such as

lets: original theme parks. These attractions

an encounter with the shark from Jaws).

are meccas to amusement, each focusing

In 2019 the park opened a reimagined

rides and exhibits around different concepts

and re-engineered Jurassic World–The Ride

such as fairies, film, plastic blocks, sea life

with new dinosaurs and lush scenic design.

and an inimitable mouse. Most of the parks

Three years earlier, they opened their most

are situated in the southern part of the state

anticipated attraction ever: The Wizarding

(where the weather is generally warmer), but

World of Harry Potter, complete with a

the granddaddy of them all is up north. Each

replica of Hogwarts castle and a recreation

of the parks is worth a closer look.

of the shops of Hogsmeade. This section is home to two rides: Harry Potter and the For-

Universal Studios Hollywood

bidden Journey, and Flight of the

This film-themed park got its formal start in

Hippogriff. It also affords visitors the

the 1960s when walk-throughs of Universal

opportunity to drink (non-alcoholic, but-

Studios soundstages and sets were expanded

terscotch-flavored) Butterbeer in a rustic

to include peeks at actual production. Over

tavern named Three Broomsticks, and to

the years, the studio added a tram to shuttle

shop for wands and other trinkets and sou-

visitors through the back lot; this tram

venirs in Diagon Alley.

DAVID SPRAGUE/UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD. OPPOSITE: CDRIN/SHUTTERSTOCK; CARLOS/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; CITYPASS

California’s theme parks appeal to kids of all ages

LEGOLAND California, right; CityPASS digital tickets, below; Children’s Fairyland at Lake Merritt, Oakland, bottom; Flight of the Hippogriff at the Wizarding World of Harry Potter, Universal Studios Hollywood, opposite.

The rest of the park is divided into two areas connected by escalator: the Upper and Lower lots. Transformers: The Ride 3-D is a fan-favorite on the Lower Lot. On the Upper Lot, Despicable Me Minion Mayhem, a 3-D simulator ride, and Super Silly Fun Land, an outdoor family-friendly playground, both opened in 2014. The official studio tour commemorated its 50th anniversary in 2015

This new area joins eight other lands,

with the opening of a new grand finale

some of which focus on actual history:

dubbed Fast & Furious: Supercharged.

Frontierland recreates the setting of the American frontier, while Main Street

Children’s Fairyland

U.S.A. is patterned after a small Mid-

Believe it or not, the first theme park in the

western town (many believe Walt Disney

U.S. to cater to families with young kids was

got his inspiration from his own boy-

Children’s Fairyland, a blink-and-you’ll-

hood town of Marceline, Missouri).

miss-it theme park on the shores of Lake

The park opened with one hotel, but

Merritt in Oakland. The place opened in

since the 1990s it has grown exponentially,

1950 (original admission started between 9

adding a new theme park (Disney’s Cali-

and 14 cents), making it the first official

fornia Adventure), a shopping district

theme park in California, as well. According

(Downtown Disney) and two additional

to some, it was one of Walt Disney’s inspi-

hotels. One of the newest attractions,

rations for the eponymous park he created

Guardians

five years later.

BREAKOUT!, was inspired by the Marvel

Today, Fairyland includes small rides

of

the

Galaxy–Mission:

Comics movies and opened in May 2017.

such as a mini Ferris wheel and carousels, and life-sized sets depicting scenes from timeless storybooks (Pinocchio’s castle and the Humpty Dumpty wall are two favorites).

The theme park also is home to the Storybook Puppet Theater, which opened in 1956.

A number of the country’s most famous puppeteers got their start here, including a teenager by the name of Frances Oznowicz.

You likely know him as Frank Oz.

Disneyland The big news at Disneyland is the 2019 opening of Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge, a new themed area or “land” in California’s most famous theme park, which opened in 1955.

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 31

THEME PARKS A FAMILY WITH BUTTERBEER at the Wizarding World of Harry Potter, Universal Studios Hollywood, right.

Other Bay Area Parks The San Francisco Bay Area is home to two other popular parks: California’s Great America (in Santa Clara) and Six Flags Discovery Kingdom (in Vallejo).

In early summer, Great America will open South Bay Shores, a transformed water park with double the play space of retiring Boomerang Bay. The park is also

including dolphins, sea lions, walruses,

Bay Cruise, a choice between Aquarium of the

known for its rides, which range from

polar bears and beluga whales. In 2016 Sea-

Bay or The Walt Disney Family Museum, and

scream-inducing (Flight Deck, a roller

World reorganized its entertainment

a choice between the Exploratorium or the

coaster, has one 360-degree loop and a

program to focus more squarely on educa-

San Francisco Zoo. The pass is valid for nine

zero-gravity roll) to family-friendly (the

tion. This means no more animal shows,

days. Buy your CityPASS at any of the above

Carousel Columbia is the world’s tallest

which has kept conservation groups happy.

attractions or online at citypass.com. There’s

double-decker carousel). In 2017 the park

In the nearby community of Carlsbad,

also a San Francisco CityPASS C3 ticket for

added Patriot, a floorless roller coaster; and

Legoland is dedicated to tiny plastic bricks

shorter-stay visitors. This mobile ticket, avail-

in 2015, the park expanded the Planet

(“Legos”), and boasts Lego replicas of famous

able exclusively through citypass.com, allows

Snoopy kids area and added three new

architectural icons (the Statue of Liberty and

visitors to choose any three attractions from

attractions, including two new racing rides.

the Taj Mahal among them). The park incor-

a list of nine options.

The vibe at Discovery Kingdom is more

porates rides and eateries, and is home to the

eclectic. In addition to rides such as the

Model Shop, the headquarters for the park’s

Medusa roller coaster and SkyScreamer (a

10 master builders (a window allows guests

swing ride), the park also is home to a

to witness these professionals at work).

number of animals, including Jocko the

There also are two tremendous on-site water

walrus, who starred in the 2004 movie, 50

parks, and a new submarine ride that com-

First Dates, and Brandon the reticulated

bines Lego creations and an aquarium.

Universal Studios Hollywood universalstudioshollywood.com

Giants slugger, Brandon Belt. In 2017, park

CityPASS

Children’s Fairyland fairyland.org

officials added Wonder Woman: Lasso of

Once you’ve decided where to go, CityPASS

Truth, a circular swing ride; in 2015, the park

can save you time and money. For Southern

added the Dare Devil Chaos Coaster, a roller

California, CityPASS tickets help visitors

coaster that takes passengers upside-down

create and save on individualized ticket pack-

in both forward and backward directions.

ages to attractions such as Disneyland Park,

»

FIND YOUR FANTASY

giraffe, who was named after San Francisco

San Diego Area Parks

California, SeaWorld San Diego, Universal

San Diego and its surrounding suburbs also

Studios Hollywood, San Diego Zoo and San

comprise a great region for theme parks;

Diego Zoo Safari Park. Prices and savings vary,

two family favorites are SeaWorld and

depending on which parks you choose and

Legoland California.

for how many days. The San Francisco City-

Out near Mission Bay, in San Diego

PASS ticket saves 40 percent or more off

proper, SeaWorld is a sprawling homage to

combined admission to the California

dozens of different species of marine life,

Academy of Sciences, a Blue and Gold Fleet

32 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

California’s Great America cagreatamerica.com Six Flags Discovery Kingdom sixflags.com/discoverykingdom Legoland California california.legoland.com SeaWorld seaworld.com/san-diego Knott’s Berry Farm knotts.com CityPASS citypass.com

NATHANIEL CHADWICK/UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD

Disney California Adventure Park, Legoland

Disneyland disneyland.disney.go.com

SHOPPING

BY LENORE GREINER

A Statewide Bazaar Everything from high fashion to outlet bargains to simple souvenirs

With California’s cultural and agricultural riches, when you come here you can count on shopping sprees in one-of-a-kind, hole-in-the-wall shops to the grandest department stores and shopping districts. All of the top brands are here, from Neiman Marcus to Nordstrom to Bloomingdale’s, and famous districts from Orange County malls to Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills to San Francisco’s Union Square will give you plenty to explore.

34 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

The Golden State’s iconic malls ,

tique, arriving at a mall by boat or hunting

bohemian shops and posh boutiques can

bargains behind the walls of a recreated

astound even the most jaded sophisticate.

Mesopotamian palace. And super shopping

An enticing range of California’s eclectic

opportunities entice savvy shoppers in mil-

creativity awaits visitors throughout the

lions of square feet of retail space.

state, from theme park collectibles to homegrown surfing gear to fine wine.

SoCal Glamour

Foodies can sample fresh-made cheeses in

Malls sprawl throughout Los Angeles,

artisanal food shops. Fashionistas will love

crowned by Rodeo Drive’s stratospheric

San Francisco’s luxurious haute couture

price tags. In the historic Jewelry District,

haunts. And art lovers can bring home an

one of the country’s largest, you’ll find sig-

original California landscape from a red-

nificant bargains in fine jewelry at prices up

wood-scented artists’ enclave.

to 70 percent less than those in Beverly

California shopping safaris may entail

Hills. More than 1,500 jewelry showrooms

sighting a celebrity in a Los Angeles bou-

stand roughly on 5th and 8th streets to the

MICHAEL GORDON/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: PASADENA CVB

CALIFORNIA SHOPPING

north and south, and Broadway and Olive to

music emporium, stocking an overwhelming

Spectrum Center holds 150 stores, restau-

the east and west. Behind a facade of bas-

selection of vinyl, CDs, tapes, posters and col-

rants and a 21-screen cinema, anchored by

reliefs of Babylonian princes and heraldic

lectibles—at rock-bottom prices.

Nordstrom and Target.

griffins, the Citadel Outlets holds 700,000

In Santa Monica’s breezy, three-block

Fashion Island, with its casual resort set-

square feet of retail bargains inside a one-

pedestrian shopping mecca, Third Street

ting featuring splashing fountains and a koi

time 1929 tire plant modeled on an ancient

Promenade, find the usual mall suspects,

pond, overlooks the Pacific. Leading with

Assyrian palace. And between the Farmer’s

Anthropologie, Zara and Gap, as well as

Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale’s, this

Market and The Grove shopping center, the

celebrity-soaked cafés and eateries.

coastal center has more than 150 shops and

Grove Trolley provides shoppers free rides

Artsy shoppers should head to South

along First Street. Also check out LA’s Bev-

Grand Avenue to the museum shops of The

Beyond the malls, Laguna Beach’s stylish

erly Center, having just completed a $500

Broad and the Museum of Contemporary

art galleries line streets sloping to a pretty

million reimagination.

Art, Los Angeles. For bargains, drive north

beach. And, if heading to Palm Springs,

to Camarillo’s giant 160-store Camarillo

stop at Desert Hills Premium Outlets in

Premium Outlets.

Cabazon, and The Gardens on El Paseo and

The West Hollywood Design District features high-end fashion, interior design,

restaurants and a luxury cinema.

furniture, decorative arts and luxury brand

In Orange County, quintessential SoCal

stores on Melrose Avenue and Robertson and

shopping experiences await in huge open-

Southward in San Diego, begin your

Beverly boulevards. Sunset Boulevard’s world

air malls, complete with valet parking.

shopping trip with a delightful morning at

famous Amoeba Music is the nation’s largest

Inspired by Spain’s Alhambra, the Irvine

waterside Seaport Village. Then, hop on the

El Paseo Village in Palm Desert.

Coronado Island ferry and cruise to the Coronado Ferry Landing Shops for more sunny shopping.

In the city center, the 16½-block Gaslamp Quarter features mall chains as well as hip shops and art galleries occupying restored Victorian buildings. San Diego’s own Rodeo Drive—Prospect Street in La Jolla—has art galleries, boutiques and sweeping Pacific views. In coastal Carlsbad, north of San Diego, you’ll find an elegant outlet mall, the Carlsbad Premium Outlets.

SHOPPING IN PASADENA, left; Rodeo Drive shopping district in Beverly Hills, opposite.

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 35

SHOPPING ADMIRING THE ART WALL at the LAB anti-mall in Costa Mesa, below; shopping on Main Street in Saint Helena, right.

Heading north? Check out the Outlets at Tejon along Interstate 5 between Los Angeles and Bakersfield, just south of the Highway 99 interchange at the base of the Grapevine. The sprawling, 350,000-square-foot mall contains the usual, Nike and Polo Ralph Lauren, and some newcomers to the outlet scene, H&M and Pottery Barn, among the shady walkways and Mission Ranch architecture. perfume house Penhaligon’s.

of the City’s nascent Beat culture, and

San Francisco’s massive malls and quirky

Don’t miss San Francisco’s great shop-

quirky antique stores. Japantown offers

boutiques showcase the city’s European

ping neighborhoods. On Chinatown’s

authentic Japanese goods, tansu chests,

style. Join the Prada-clad parade encircling

Stockton Street you can pick up Asian

bonsai and antique kimonos. Finally, Hayes

one of the world’s great “urban rooms,”

antiques, silk clothing bargains or rare tea.

Valley, a hipster haven, has trendy stores

downtown Union Square. Max out your plat-

Herbal pharmacies proffer Chinese medic-

and nary a chain store in sight.

inum card in international boutiques,

inal remedies, ginseng, deer antlers or

jewelry stores and high-end department

herbs costing $100 per pound.

Two hours south, in Carmel-by-the-Sea’s storybook village, shops display fine French

stores. Today, Neiman Marcus stands where

Near Pacific Heights, Sacramento Street

linen and European antiques. Big Sur’s rugged

The City of Paris once stood, retaining the

houses fancy consignment shops, luxury

coast inspires the art found in small art gal-

opulent rotunda and ornate glass skylight.

goods retailers and haute couture children’s

leries. On Ocean Avenue, explore designer

Stroll down nearby Maiden Lane, once lined

boutiques. Hippie culture thrives on Haight

shops such as Bottega Veneta or Kate Spade in

with Barbary Coast brothels, for more luxury.

Street with the northern outpost of Amoeba

Carmel

Plaza

shopping

center amid

Nearby, the Westfield San Francisco

Music and shops selling incense, used

cafés, artful bronze sculptures and abundant

Centre is an architectural gem; under a

records and vintage San Francisco post-

plants and flowers. Carmel Plaza completed a

stunning 1908 dome stand restaurants and

cards, which make great gifts.

major renovation in 2018.

food emporiums, such as Japan’s Beard

North Beach and Jackson Square cafés

North, the wine country has recovered

Papa Cream Puffs, and 142 stores, including

still sound with Italian speakers. Here, visit

from a disastrous 2017 wildfire and is fully

an Amazon Pop-Up and the iconic British

the legendary City Lights bookstore, home

welcoming visitors. Discover artisanal food

36 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

RAVEL COSTA MESA; BOB MCCLENAHAN

Northern California Elegance

»

FIND YOUR FASHION

West Hollywood Design District westhollywooddesigndistrict.com

Outlets at Tejon tejonoutlets.com

Citadel Outlets citadeloutlets.com

Desert Hills Premium Outlets premiumoutlets.com/outlet/desert-hills

The Grove thegrovela.com

The Gardens on El Paseo thegardensonelpaseo.com

Beverly Center beverlycenter.com

Westfield San Francisco Centre westfield.com/sanfrancisco

Santa Monica Third Street Promenade 3rdstreetpromenade.com

Carmel-by-the-Sea carmelbythesea.com

Amoeba Music amoeba.com The Broad Museum thebroad.org Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles moca.org/visit San Diego Gaslamp Quarter gaslamp.org Coronado Ferry Landing Shops coronadoferrylanding.com Seaport Village seaportvillage.com

shops, olive oil producers and cheese

Irvine Spectrum Center shopirvinespectrumcenter.com

makers on Sonoma’s main plaza. Napa Valley wineries offer fine vintages, and

Fashion Island shopfashionisland.com

foodies will love the seasonal abundance at Petaluma’s organic Green String Farm

Carlsbad Premium Outlets premiumoutlets.com/Carlsbad

Carmel Plaza carmelplaza.com Sonoma’s Main Plaza sonomavalley.com/about/sonoma-plaza Mendocino Shopping mendocino.com Napa Premium Outlets premiumoutlets.com/napa Green String Farm greenstringfarm.com Saint Helena’s Main Street sthelena.com Downtown Disney District disneyland.disney.go.com/destinations/ downtown-disney-district Yosemite Valley yosemite.com/things-to-do/shopping Ansel Adams Gallery anseladams.com

and in local farmers markets. Or explore Saint Helena’s historic main street for culinary tools and vintage luxuries.

Valley’s majesty and history. In the park,

you’ll find surf gear and Disney collectibles.

Three outlet malls—in Petaluma, Napa

the Ansel Adams Gallery sells photographic

Finally, the world’s largest collection of

and Vacaville—offer brand names and

reproductions and collectible prints; the

Legos for sale’ stands just inside Carlsbad’s

mall time.

Yosemite Valley Lodge has a gift shop for

Legoland California Resort.

souvenirs. Find authentic Native American

From sun-splashed malls to sophisti-

Farther Afield: North Coast, Yosemite & Theme Parks

pottery in the shop at the Majestic Yosemite

cated art galleries, even the most

Hotel, formerly the Ahwahnee Hotel.

experienced shopaholic can score the per-

California’s wild north coast inspires the

Shopping in theme parks goes beyond

fect gift or memento during a delirious

handcrafted furniture and handicrafts,

sunscreen or souvenirs. In San Diego Zoo

California shopping experience. And it’s all

pottery or jewelry found in artsy Mendo-

Safari Park, The Bazaar stocks authentic

located on stage sets of ocean views, moun-

cino’s ocean view lanes.

African artifacts and unusual jewelry. In

tain majesty, innovative architecture and

Disneyland’s Downtown Disney District,

quiet redwood groves.

Bring home a memento of Yosemite

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 37

TAUBMAN SHOPPING CENTERS From luxury to fast fashion BY

LENORE GREINER

DESIGNED WITH LOS ANGELES’

Co., Versace and more. Contemporary

“creative spirit in mind, the landmark

brands include Apple, COS, KENZO, Sandro

Beverly Center is the city’s premier

and Maje and an expanded fast-fashion

fashion, food and lifestyle destination

collection includes LA’s largest Zara, H&M

made for the creative class that moves LA

and Uniqlo.

and the rest of the world forward. A recent reimagination of Beverly Center’s bright

New This Year: The Webster

contemporary design, expertly curated

An 11,000-square-foot, high-end designer

retail, enviable dining options and expe-

flagship boutique, The Webster, prominently

riential offerings has created a singular

stands on the corner of Beverly and San

lifestyle destination.

Vicente Boulevards. This upscale, multi-

Home to more than 100 stores, Beverly

brand retailer provides a curated shopping

Center features a unique collection of the

experience within an intimate home-like

best in luxury, contemporary and fast

setting, combining the ambiance of the

fashion, targeting the trend seekers and

ultimate walk-in closet with customized

tastemakers of LA and beyond. The Center’s

furnishings and contemporary art.

38 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Fendi, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Saint

LA’s Newest Dining Destination

Laurent, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tiffany &

Beverly Center offers one-of-a kind, chef-

TAUBMAN

luxury boutiques include Balenciaga,

BEVERLY CENTER, opposite; El Paseo Village, below.

fast-casual

port to Shopping program. Shoppers from

Johnny Was, Sephora, Pottery Barn and

eateries. Eight street level restaurants

more than 50 miles away can receive spe-

more. For one-of-a kind dining, The Gar-

include Angler from acclaimed chef and

cial offers from nearly 50 retailers by

dens on El Paseo offers Pacifica Seafood

owner Joshua Skenes/Saison Hospitality,

visiting the concierge desk on Level 6 in the

Restaurant, Tommy Bahama’s Restaurant

Farmhouse by restaurateur Laurent Halasz

Grand Court. The center’s multilingual staff

& Bar and Wilma & Frieda, which was fea-

and executive farmer Nathan Peitso,

can help guests with everything from

tured on “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.”

ABSteak by Chef Akira Back, and Yardbird

tourist programs and foreign currency

Southern Table & Bar by restaurateur John

exchange to directions, reservations and

Kunkel, as well as Eggslut, Marugume

gift recommendations.

driven

restaurants

and

Udon, Tocaya Organica and Pitchoun Bakery & Café.

Shopping in the Coachella Valley

Inside, dine amid sweeping city views

If traveling to Palm Desert, visit The Gar-

and a new skylight at fast-casual eateries,

dens on El Paseo, Coachella Valley’s

including Easy’s by Jeremy Fall and Coffee

premier shopping and dining destination.

Commissary.

Anchored by Saks Fifth Avenue, The Gardens on El Paseo features luxurious stores

Exclusive Passport to Shopping

such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Tiffany &

Beverly Center welcomes visitors from all

Co. as well as favorites such as Anthro-

around the world with an exclusive Pass-

pologie, Brooks Brothers, Eileen Fisher,

»

FIND YOUR TAUBMAN EXPERIENCE

Beverly Center beverlycenter.com The Gardens on El Paseo thegardensonelpaseo.com

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 39

THE OUTLETS AT TEJON Classic high-end shopping in California’s interior BY

LENORE GREINER

SURROUNDED BY THE SCENIC land-

relaxing furniture and curving retail prom-

and senior discounts, on the center’s web-

scape of historic Tejon Ranch, The Outlets

enades, attractive canopies throughout

site. Or stop by Guest Services or download

at Tejon offers travelers a massive array of

completely shade the center’s breezeways,

the Outlets at Tejon app for deals and news

shopping in 365,000 square feet. Located

complemented by energy-efficient fans.

such as events, new stores, center hours and

on 43 acres along Interstate 5 nearly

For dining, you can grab a pizza, burger,

more. You can even win prizes instantly.

midway between Santa Clarita and Bakers-

coffee and more in the Hacienda Food

Gift cards to the center are now available for

field, the center is convenient to Los

Court or dine nearby in group-friendly, sit-

purchase, and the center offers electric

Angeles, Antelope Valley and the San Fer-

down

vehicle stations.

nando Valley. And for those driving

convenient seating areas for resting weary

between Southern and Northern California,

feet, and large, plentiful restrooms.

restaurants.

You’ll

also

find

it’s a great place to stop for a break.

Great for Kids, Pets

and feel of the high-end outdoor-lifestyle

Kids from toddlers to eight-year-olds will

shopping centers normally found in Cali-

love Camp Tejon, a play area inside the food

fornia’s upscale coastal communities.

court. There, they can tackle a climbable tower structure with a slide or two interactive

Famous Brands

wall puzzles in a fun sitting area. Or simply

Shoppers can explore more than 60 top

play on a butterfly, a bear cub or inside a

designer and value brands from fashion to

climbable canoe. Parents will love the con-

footwear, jewelry to home goods and more,

venient power outlets for device charging.

all offering savings up to 65 percent. Stroll

Additionally, a pet-friendly atmosphere

among must-have brands such as Kate Spade,

prevails at The Outlets at Tejon, which

Michael Kors, Nike Factory Store, Coach Fac-

includes two grassy park areas and stores

tory Store, H&M, Express, Old Navy,

that welcome pets.

Columbia Sportswear and a new Bath and

Since a day isn’t enough to shop all the

Body Works. New stores include Cosmetics

stores, shoppers can plan an overnight at three

Company Store and The Children’s Place. And

nearby hotels; a new 80-room Hampton Inn

Pottery Barn’s outlet has expanded to include

stands within walking distance.

Pottery Barn Kids and Pottery Barn Teens.

Before shopping, download a printable

Plan to browse in comfort, rain or shine.

map or learn more about upcoming sales,

Among the open-air courtyards with

events and discounts, including student

40 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

»

DISCOVER THE OUTLETS AT TEJON

TejonOutlets.com Facebook.com/OutletsAtTejon

TEJON OUTLETS

This mega-outlet center evokes the look

A FULL MOON over the Outlets at Tejon, above.

CARMEL PLAZA High fashion and a community gathering place

BY LENORE GREINER

CarmelPlaza.com Facebook.com/ShopCarmelPlaza

EASY ACCESS AND DOG-FRIENDLY Carmel Plaza, above; the Courtyard provides a good place to meet friends, below.

Carmel Plaza offers the village’s largest concentration of luxury and name brand retailers. Fine stores and boutiques stand within three levels, including Tiffany & Co., Bottega Veneta and Anthropologie. Specialty retailers include Cos Bar, a luxury cosmetics and skin care boutique, and popular Janie and Jack for upscale children’s apparel. For Bohemian style, check out Roller Rabbit’s travel clothing and home goods.

Carmel Plaza’s newest boutiques include Sugarfarm Marketplace for artisan crafts, Cariloha, for ultra-soft, comfortable bamboo clothing and bedding, and Seabags, for totes and accessories crafted from recycled sails.

Within House of Cardoon’s color-splashed world of global art and interiors, discover accessories and furniture, textiles and leather goods in an exclusive range of ten colors. Lovers of the links can supply themselves with golf apparel and accessories at Land and Sea Golf or experience an upscale golf simulation at Links Club.

And in dog-friendly Carmel, shops often set out water bowls for pups; stop at The Dog House for toys and custom-made doggie outfits.

Courtyard Gathering Place In The Courtyard, locals and visitors alike gather around several custom fire pits on comfortable furnishings amid landscaping to relax between shopping and dining. Or take in a California moment during a class at the Seaside Yoga Sanctuary.

42 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

In food-centric Carmel Plaza, sample fine, rare cheeses in the internationally renowned The Cheese Shop or enjoy breakfast or lunch at Café Luna. There’s pizza at Rise & Roam, a Roman-style pizzeria, and French bistro fare at the Patisserie Boissiere, which offers lunch and dinner inside an inspired cottage. Also, a Zagat-rated dinner house, The Flying Fish Grill, features Asian-influenced fresh fish fare.

Carmel’s only restaurant and microbrewery, Yeast of Eden, purveys terroir-driven beers paired with a global, street food-inspired menu. Take a (wine) break at the Hahn Family Wines Tasting Room to sip California’s best, one of three Carmel Plaza wine-tasting rooms. Finally, catch a cooking class at the state-of-the-art cooking school at Sur La Table.

Great Customer Service Since visitors come to Carmel Plaza from the world over, many store employees speak other languages, use phone apps for translation or subscribe to We Chat (the Chinese payment system).

To learn about seasonal sales, promotions, new store openings and special events, such as Carmel Plaza’s annual Summer Live Music Series, check out the center’s Facebook page at Facebook.com/ ShopCarmelPlaza. Parking is convenient in space-deficient downtown Carmel; enter the center’s parking garage at Mission Street and 7th Avenue.

CARMEL PLAZA

»

DISCOVER CARMEL PLAZA

IN THE HEART of Carmel-by-the-Sea,

ROAD TRIPS

BY JOHN FLINN

Hit the Road, Jack!

HIGHWAY 1 Whether you drive ten miles or the full thousand, Highway 1 will

Californians didn’t invent the car, but

Up the Coast

they like to think, with some justification,

Northern Californians call it “Highway 1”

your breath away, such as this one

that they invented the automobile lifestyle.

and Southern Californians call it the “Pacific

in Santa Cruz County, above.

With drive-thru grocery stores, drive-thru

Coast Highway”—or, simply, the “PCH”—but

pharmacies, drive-thru churches and even

there’s no doubt that the road that hugs the

drive-thru mortuaries, one gets the feeling

state’s remarkable coastline, often close

that if Californians could only invent a

enough to feel the salt spray, offers one of

drive-thru delivery room they could hap-

the world’s classic driving trips.

provide twists and turns and views of the coast that will take

pily go from cradle to grave without ever having to pull over to the curb.

beaches to the misty redwood forests near

California is a land of supersized dis-

the Oregon border, the journey, which

tances, jumbo landscapes and big-gulp

includes a few stretches on other highways,

vistas, and the best way to see it all is on a

is a touch over 1,000 miles.

road trip, or, better yet, a series of road trips.

Here are a few of our favorites.

44 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

From sun-splashed Southern California

The sights are so numerous we can barely scratch the surface: The Hotel Del

JMICHAEL URMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE:PUNG/SHUTTERSTOCK; MIN CHIU/SHUTTERSTOCK; LUCKY-PHOTOGRAPHER/SHUTTERSTOCK

Explore the Golden State from the driver’s seat

MUIR WOODS NATIONAL Monument, right; Santa Cruz Breakwater Lighthouse, a.k.a. Walton Lighthouse, below; the Golden Gate Bridge, bottom.

Coronado, where Marilyn Monroe frolicked

sagebrush-covered West begins. This is the

in Some Like It Hot; classic surf breaks made

Old Frontier of our imagination, a realm of

famous by the Beach Boys; star-studded

real cowboys and real Indians—and of cin-

Malibu; Riviera-like Santa Barbara; Hearst

ematic cowboys and Indians.

Castle; Big Sur; Santa Cruz, with its old-

Highway 395 hugs the state’s eastern

timey beach boardwalk; San Francisco;

border, and the 264-mile stretch of high

Point Reyes National Seashore; artsy Men-

desert from Reno to Lone Pine, which passes

docino; Redwood National Park.

tumbleweeds, swinging-door saloons and

A few tips: Allow far more time than you

ghost towns beneath the breathtakingly

think you need; besides the frequent diver-

sheer eastern wall of the Sierra Nevada, is

sions, the road is so winding in places it’s

one of California’s most iconic drives.

hard to average more than 30 miles per

The northern stretch traverses ranch-

hour. If you’re prone to carsickness, this

land that was once—and sometimes still

isn’t the trip for you. Keep your gas tank full

is—the domain of Basque sheepherders,

and your bladder empty. In some areas, it’s

and in the town of Gardnerville, just over

more than 40 miles between gas stations—

the border in Nevada, you have your choice

and restrooms.

of excellent Basque restaurants. As you drive south, keep an eye out for cowboys,

Cowboys & Indians

although these days they’re as likely to be

East of the Sierra Nevada the green, popu-

riding an all-terrain vehicle as a horse. Far-

lated West Coast ends and the brown,

ther south, as you approach Mono Lake,

YOUR » PICK HIGHWAY CA-1 The Coast pacific-coast-highway-travel.com US-395 Eastern Sierra aaroads.com/California/us-395_ca

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 45

ROAD TRIPS

AN F-LINE HISTORIC streetcar passes the Ferry Building on the Embarcadero, San Francisco, right; Hearst Castle, below; Dodger Stadium in Los Angeles, opposite top; San Diego harbor and skyline, opposite bottom.

ring everyone from Hopalong Cassidy to

West Marin County, with its organic farms,

John Wayne, filmed in the nearby Alabama

artisanal bakeries and gourmet cheese-

Hills.

makers, is the breadbasket for San

A few tips: Springtime, when the Sierra

Francisco’s foodie culture. Stop for lunch at

is still clad in snow, is the prettiest time for

the Hog Island Oyster Farm, where you can

the drive, although some side trips may be

munch on bivalve mollusks pulled straight

limited. For an overnight stop, the town of

from Tomales Bay. The long, narrow bay,

Bishop offers the largest selection of motels

incidentally, is a submerged section of the

and restaurants.

notorious San Andreas Fault. Farther north sleepy fishing village where Alfred Hitch-

You don’t have to spend days or weeks on

cock unleashed avian terror in The Birds.

the highway to see the best of California.

The Tides restaurant, where terrified

Within easy reach of major cities are exqui-

townspeople took shelter, is still there,

site road trips you can do in less than a day.

although hardly recognizable in its current form. A few miles inland, in the separate

San Francisco

town of Bodega, you can find the familiar

Head north, across the Golden Gate Bridge,

schoolhouse and church from the movie.

you’ll probably encounter members of the

to sample some of Northern California’s

Continue on to Sebastopol, renowned for

Washoe and Paiute tribes.

most bucolic scenery. Fortunately, most of

its juicy Gravenstein apples and an outpost

Highway 395 grazes the shore of enor-

it was spared by the devastating fires of the

of Sonoma County’s wine country. Turn

mous Mono Lake, which is so alkaline Mark

last three years and conditions are back to

south on Highway 101 and head back to San

Twain once joked he could do his laundry

normal. Almost within sight of San Fran-

Francisco, stopping for a celebratory cock-

merely by dragging it behind him in a boat.

cisco’s skyscrapers you’ll come to Muir

tail in Sausalito, with the lights of the city

Stop at Manzanar, just off the highway, for

Woods National Monument, a cathedral-

twinkling across the bay.

a poignant visit to the site of a relocation

like preserve of old-growth redwoods at the

camp for Americans of Japanese heritage

foot of Mount Tamalpais. Follow Highway 1

Los Angeles

during World War II. In Lone Pine, the Lone

to Point Reyes National Seashore, where

On a day trip along the Angeles Crest Scenic

Pine Film History Museum pays tribute to

you might catch tule elk grazing on misty

Byway you’re more likely to spot a bighorn

the hundreds of Hollywood Westerns, star-

hillsides above the wave-battered coast.

sheep than a Kardashian. As you wind up

46 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

TREKANDSHOOT/SHUTTERSTOCK; PIKAPPA51/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: CITYPASS; PUNG/SHUTTERSTOCK

on Highway 1 you’ll come to Bodega Bay, a

Day Trips

and over narrow ridgetops in the San Gabriel Mountains, above the smog, your vistas range from the vast, chocolate-brown Mojave Desert to Catalina Island. Also known as State Highway 2, the 66-mile-long Angeles Crest Scenic Byway was built almost 100 years ago to be “the most scenic and picturesque mountain road in the state.” Access it from the suburb of La Canada Flintridge at the western end of the San Gabriel Valley. As you drive east on the narrow two-lane road, keep an eye out for bears, mountain lions and bighorn sheep. Another side trip brings you to the Mount Wilson Observatory, where astronomers found the first observational evidence for the Big Bang theory. If you’ve brought along your fishing rod, try your luck in Little Rock Creek near the Mt. Waterman Ski Resort. Farther east, the road crosses the 2,665-mile-long Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail: From here you can

daylong drive from San Diego. Make your

vanilla ice cream. The air here is so clean,

hike south to Mexico or north to Canada.

way north on I-15 and east to Ramona, and

and the views so extensive, that the Cali-

From the road’s end at Highway 138, head

then continue on to the ridgetop town of

fornia Institute of Technology built the

southeast to Interstate 15, which will whisk

Julian. A beautifully preserved relic of an

Palomar Observatory a few miles away. Con-

you back to the Los Angeles Basin.

1870s gold rush, Julian these days is

tinue east, downhill, on Highway 78 to

renowned for apples. You’ll smell the aroma

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, a 937-

San Diego

of baking pies the moment you step out of

square-mile preserve that encompasses the

Cross the Palomar Mountains to soak up the

your car. Stop for a slice, just out of the oven,

eastern fifth of San Diego County. If it’s

vast and colorful Anza-Borrego desert on a

warm and gooey with a scoop of French

spring, and the winter has been wet, you’ll be treated to one of the most vivid and sweeping displays of wildflowers in the United States. If the flowers aren’t up, there’s still plenty to see. A local landowner commissioned artist Ricardo Arroyo Breceda to produce more than 130 giant sculptures in the desert, everything from life-size replicas of gomphotheres (elephant-like creatures that once lived there) to prehistoric camels and ground sloths to scenes from California history: a Spanish padre, a gold miner and farmworkers. The undisputed highlight: an enormous sea serpent that undulates so far across the desert that it spans one of the main roads. From here you can retrace your route or take the long way home via the Salton Sea and Palm Springs.

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 47

CUISINE

BY LAURA NESS

Dining Out A Golden State of haute cuisine

ALFRESCO DINING The results are in and it’s official: the Bay

1849 and the oldest in California, along

Area of the Golden State has finally bested

with Sam’s Grill, est. 1867, still hold their

New York for the greatest number of

own against innovative newcomers. SF’s

Michelin three-starred restaurants, with

Mission district has become a foodie haven

seven now, compared to five in New York

and

City and two in Chicago. For those who have

Berkeley to Palo Alto to Napa and Sonoma

made Star-bagging an official bucket list

all bring fine food to the table.

thing, this makes California an even more compelling destination for haute cuisine.

communities

from

Like everything else in California from politics to entertainment, food is a

While LA has long been known for its

celebrity-driven business, to wit, SOMA

wide variety of exquisite and diverse

darling International Smoke, a collabora-

restaurants, San Francisco boasts more

tion between Michael Mina and Ayesha

restaurants per capita than any other U.S.

Curry (wife of NBA superstar Steph). But

city. It comes as no surprise that of the 166

star power inspires, and many have fol-

Michelin-starred restaurants nationwide

lowed the lead of garden-to-table pioneer

for 2019, a full third of them are San Fran-

Alice Waters.

cisco establishments.

48 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

surrounding

As the birthplace of the farm-to-table

Old standards that have been around for

movement that took the country by storm,

decades, like Tadich Grill, established in

the culinary scene here is a mix of where to

PASADENA CVB. OPPOSITE: CHIRS HARDY

All up and down the state dining in the open air is popular, as it is here in Pasadena, above. Los Angeles is known for its wide variety of exquisite restaurants, and its cousin to the north, San Francisco, has more restaurants per capita than any other U.S. city.

KITCHEN CREW working at Valette, Healdsburg, right.

be seen and those unseen farmers and field

Osteria Mozza, Patina, Spago, Sushi Zo,

laborers who actually do all the dirty work

Valentino and Water Grill.

necessary to put food on tables. Over one thousand farmers markets and CSA’s thrive

San Diego

Seacoast Stars

here, more than in any other state.

San Diego’s food scene is currently buzzing

Think Mendocino for romantic, sometimes

Sustainability is the keyword in all

over Addison, Born & Raised, Barbusa, Bar-

hidden coastal dining stars, like Chef Marc

things agriculture, and we can tip our hat to

leymash, Candor, Chiko, Cucina Urbana,

Dym’s Little River Inn, Chef Nicolas Petti’s

the Monterey Bay Aquarium for its

Din Tai Fung, George’s at the Cove, Herb

Mendo Bistro, and Michelin-starred Chef

impactful Seafood Watch program that

& Wood, Hidden Fish, Il Dandy, Juniper

Matt Kemerer’s Harbor House in Elk. Brewery

helps diners make informed choices at

and Ivy, Lionfish, Mister A’s, Puesto, Rare

Gulch Inn is a gourmand’s delight and The

places like Cindy’s Waterfront and Passion-

Society, Royale, Searsucker, Siamo Napoli

Wild Fish in Albion sets new standards for

fish (Pacific Grove).

and Soichi Sushi.

seaside dining. The Madrones in Anderson Valley offers centralized wine tasting,

Sonoma and Marin counties have become cheese tourism havens and apple

San Francisco Bay Area

gourmet food and posh accommodations,

lovers can pick their fill in Sebastopol and

Aglow with 6o Michelin star restaurants for

and Mendocino’s beautifully preserved

El Dorado’s Apple Hill.

2020, the region maintains its dominance

Joshua Grindle Inn offers rest and respite.

Coastside, berry farms (Swanton) and

over New York City as the epicenter of the

pumpkin patches (Arata’s, Half Moon Bay)

U.S. culinary realm for the third year in a

Carmel & Monterey

beckon: visit Harley Farms for adorable

row. Dominique Crenn at last became the

Newly re-opened Ventana and Pacific-

goats and exquisite cheese (Pescadero).

first female chef to achieve three-star status

perched Sierra Mar at Post Ranch beckon in

Many restaurants have on-site gardens,

for Atelier Crenn, celebrating with Single

Big Sur, while Michelin-starred Aubergine

including The Restaurant at Wente (Liver-

Thread Farms (Healdsburg) as triple-star

tops the list in Carmel, joined by Il Grillo, La

more), Chez TJ (Mountain View) and Cielo

winners. She was also awarded one star for

Balena, Seventh & Dolores, Anton & Michel

Verde, one of LA’s most impressive urban

Bar Crenn, joining other one-star new-

and recently reopened Carmel Bouchée.

greenhouses.

comers Birdsong, Madcap, Nico and

Carmel Valley boasts Lucia at Bernardus

California’s olive oil production is

Protégé. Other Bay Area three-star establish-

Lodge, helmed by esteemed Chef Cal Sta-

booming, with Stella Cadente (Fort Bragg),

ments now boast Benu, Coi, French

menov, along with Café Rustica, Carmel

Olivina (Livermore) and Olea (Paso Robles)

Laundry, Meadowood, Manresa, Quince and

Valley Chophouse and Roux. Feast on the

all producing decadent flavor-infusions.

Single Thread, while Acquerello, Baumé,

freshest local catches at Wild Fish in Pacific

Californios, Commis and Lazy Bear sport

Grove, where Monterey coastal cuisine is

LA & Environs

two Michelin stars. Make your reservations

front and center at Poppy Hall, and Fan-

Trendy LA area dining spots include Amer-

now!

dango’s incomparable Old World charm

ican Beauty, Bon Temps, Clark Street, Craft,

continues to impress.

Dialogue, Eszett, Found Oyster, ink.well,

Silicon Valley

Journeymen, L’Opera, Onda, Otium, Pasjoli,

Selby's in Atherton is the latest classic from

Providence, The Stalking Horse, Umi by

Bacchus Group (Village Pub, Spruce), while

Hamasaku and Uovo, renowned for its fresh

Protégé in Palo Alto stars French Laundry

pasta. République, French bakery, café and

alums. ASA Los Gatos and Sidecar Modern

ice creamery, is the popular creation of Mar-

Tavern join Nick’s as new local favorites. Luxe

garita and Walter Manke, who previously

dining divas Chez TJ, The Plumed Horse and

opened three restaurants in Carmel,

The Village Pub all boast Michelin stars.

including L’Auberge Carmel. Plant Food +

Madera at Rosewood Sand Hill boasts Wine

Wine speaks to vegans.

Spectator’s Grand Award. Vino Cruz offers the

tastingtable.com

best collection of Santa Cruz Mountains

seriouseats.com

LA restaurants that earned Michelin stars prior to 2010 include Asanebo, Cut, Mélisse,

YOUR » FIND NEXT MEAL Mouthwatering News chow.com eater.com slofoodbank.org

wines paired with creative cuisine.

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 49

WINE COUNTRY

BY MARCY GORDON

Celebrating the Fruit of the Vine Wine tasting is always festive, no matter the season

Sampling local wines is a popular activity in the many wine growing regions throughout the state.

California wines became famous when a Chardonnay from Chateau Montelena in Napa Valley won the Judgment of Paris in 1976. It was an event that rocked the wine world, and the quality of California wines has only grown since then.

50 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

There are so many wines, varieties and where to go and what to taste can be

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA COAST Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, Livermore, Santa Cruz Mountains

daunting. Aside from taking a tour, one of

The most famous California wine region by

the best ways to get acquainted with an

far is in Northern California.

regions in California that figuring out

area is by attending a local wine festival.

Napa Valley is known around the world

Think of it as Wine-Recon, a most

for its exceptional wines, and draws more

delightful way to gather insight and

visitors than any other area. The quintessen-

information on local wineries in a short

tial wine country experience was perfected

span of time. From large-scale food and

here, with more than 300 wineries vying for

wine fests to small, quirky events, wine

your taste buds along Highway 29 and the

festivals can cater to both the casual wine

Silverado Trail. While the majority of visitors

fan and the experienced wine enthusiast

go to the big-name wineries such as Robert

determined to discover the next great

Mondavi, Beringer and Sterling, those in the

producer.

know are heading for Coombsville.

SANTA BARBARA CVB. OPPOSITE: VISIT SANTA ROSA; VISIT TEMECULA VALLEY

CALIFORNIA VINEYARDS

SANTA BARBARA WINE COUNTRY, opposite; Santa Rosa vineyard tour, right; wine tasting in Temecula, bottom.

For serious wine collectors, Auction Napa Valley has been the premier charity event of the season for more than 37 years.

Love music and wine? Make plans to attend BottleRock in May; it’s the hipster festival of the year. Prefer something more

in May, and the Winter White Wine Fes-

CENTRAL COAST Monterey, Santa Lucia Highlands, Chalone, Carmel Valley, Paso Robles, Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande, Santa Clara Valley

in Paso Robles will introduce you to the

tival in February, focusing on Alsace-style

The Central Coast is one of the largest and

small guys with bright futures.

white wines.

most diverse wine growing regions, and

pastoral? Wind your way up Highway 128 in Mendocino County to Anderson Valley for two exceptional festivals, the highly regarded Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Fest

In Sonoma County, Healdsburg reigns as

Monterey is home to the granddaddy of all

the king of the tasting rooms in California.

wine festivals, the Pebble Beach Food &

The three most popular annual events in the

Wine Classic in April, where you can sip fine

area include Winter WINEland in January,

wines and enjoy small plates by star chefs.

Barrel Tasting in March, and foodie favorite Wine and Food Affair in November.

One of the oldest regions, Livermore, is just 30 miles east of San Francisco and best

If you are a Pinot or Syrah fan, head for the

immigrants in the early 1800s and has now grown to approximately 25 wineries.

Looking to meet the next great winemaker? The 10th Annual Garagiste Festival

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA & CENTRAL VALLEY Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills, Santa Ynez Valley, Los Olivos, Temecula, Lodi, Madera, Clarksburg

highlands, the Santa Lucia Highlands, an

The Southern California coastal region

appellation with many noteworthy wineries

vineyards in Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills

such as Morgan, Mer Soleil and Hahn.

and Santa Ynez Valley produce primarily

known for its Chardonnay production and

Santa Clara Valley, one of the oldest wine

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. Santa

the well-established winery estates of

regions in California, was founded by Italian

Ynez Valley became the poster child for

Wente and Concannon.

SIERRA FOOTHILLS El Dorado, Amador, Calaveras The mining towns of the Sierra foothills— Placerville, Amador City and Sutter Creek—used to draw prospectors in search of gold, but now wine lovers come in search of riches in liquid form. The main street of Murphys is lined with Gold Rushera buildings and more than 20 tasting rooms equal parts rustic and sophisticated.

The Barbera Festival is the perfect place to sample Barbera alongside other Italian varietals including Montepulciano, Sangiovese,

Vermentino,

Pinot

Grigio,

Nebbiolo and Aglianico.

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 51

WINE COUNTRY wine tourism when the 2004 film Sideways

Vineyards inland in Southern Cali-

confirmed its status as a Pinot Noir hot spot

fornia’s mostly hot and arid region are

(or cool spot, as Pinot grapes don’t like too

gaining notice, and Temecula in particular

much heat). But the ghosts of Sideways’

is generating an ardent following for its

Miles and Jack are long gone and it’s safe to

wines and sheer determination to grow

drink Merlot again. The end of September

grapes in a challenging location.

brings the annual Celebration of Harvest,

San Diego usually means sun and sand,

four days of wine and culinary experiences

but just an hour north you’ll find there’s

in Santa Barbara Wine Country.

wine too. Animal lovers will enjoy the San

» WINE FESTIVALS NORTHERN CALIFORNIA NAPA BottleRock—May 22-24 bottlerocknapavalley.com

In the Central Valley, Lodi Zin Fest is

Diego Zoo Food, Wine and Brew Festival

Auction Napa Valley—June 4-7

the most famous and longest running

where you can stroll the grounds and sip

auctionnapavalley.org

festival for Zinfandel lovers. Lodi’s star is

wine in the midst of the wild kingdom.

SONOMA

on the rise, and it’s now recognized as

California wine festivals and events fill

one of the top wine regions in the new

the calendar all year long, like a roulette

world, a hotbed of production growing

wheel of juicy prospects. Whether you plan

more than 100 varieties in addition to its

ahead, or spin the big wine wheel and see

Barrel Tasting—March 6-8 & 13-15

legendary Zin.

where it lands, the odds are delicious.

wineroad.com/events/barrel-tasting

A ROMANTIC WINE TASTING IN SONOMA, below.

Winter WINEland—Jan. 18-19 wineroad.com/events/winter-wineland

Wine and Food Affair—Nov. 7-8 wineroad.com/events/wine-food-affair MENDOCINO Anderson Valley Winter White Wine Festival—Feb. 22-23 avwines.com/winter-white-wine-festival Anderson Valley Pinot Fest—May 15-17 avwines.com/pinot-noir-festival CENTRAL COAST Pebble Beach Food & Wine Classic— April 16-19 pbfw.com 10th Annual Garagiste Festival (Paso Robles)—Nov 13-14 californiagaragistes.com SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA & CENTRAL VALLEY Zin Fest (Lodi Lake Park)—May 1-3 zinfest.com Santa Barbara Vintners Festival— May 2 sbvintnersweekend.com

Brew—Sept. 26 sandiegozoo.org/zoo/celebration

52 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

KERRICK JAMES

San Diego Zoo Food, Wine and

CASINOS

BY MATT VILLANO

Deal Me In

PECHANGA CASINO

In the olden days—the days of Frank

games. They even have bingo. Many of

The Pechanga Resort & Casino in Temecula opened in 2002, and is still the largest casino in California.

The resort is the biggest employer in the Temecula Valley, a place the Pechanga people have called home for more than 10,000 years.

Sinatra and Bugsy Siegel—U.S. gamblers

these wagering wonderlands are “Vegas-

looking for a date with Lady Luck had one

style” resorts, complete with luxury hotels,

option: Las Vegas. Nowadays, with changes

top-notch restaurants and indulgent spas.

to gambling laws in many states, it’s a safe

A few of the properties even have their own

bet that bettors can throw down their cash

golf courses.

just about anywhere. Of all the states that

Card rooms are smaller, quieter and, in

now offer gambling, the best (and most

many cases, more geared toward locals.

plentiful) options are in California.

Games here are far less varied—in most

The Golden State has two choices for

cases, as the name suggests, only card

people looking to place bets: Native Amer-

games are available. The upside? Gam-

ican casinos, and card rooms (which are

bling action is usually loose (and that’s a

glorified bars where gambling is legal, so

good thing).

long as the house doesn’t win).

54 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

We’ve divided California’s gambling

The Native American outposts tend to be

scene into four distinct geographical

farther from major cities but offer nicer

regions. Wherever you go, bet wisely, and

digs. They have slots. They have table

remember to stay within your means.

383116210/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: CHUKCHANSI; ECHANGA CASINO

Las Vegas isn’t the only show out West

PLACING A BET at the roulette table, opposite; Chukchansi Gold Resort & Casino, right; exciting slot action in Pechanga Casino, bottom.

San Francisco Bay Area & Beyond Without question, the Bay Area is the most exciting region of California for gambling, with more options than any other part of the state. It also is home to the newest major spot to let chips fly: Graton Resort & Casino.

This attraction, located in Rohnert Park, is a hulking casino built and operated by Station Casinos, one of the largest casino companies in Las Vegas. Bettors cheer the swanky gambling floor, which boasts a 20table poker room, more than 130 table games, and thousands of slots. Foodies

the closest casino to Yosemite National

flock to the place, too—the restaurant

Park, just 27 miles from the southern

lineup includes an outpost of local favorite

entrance near Wawona; it’s also just 15

Boathouse Asian Eatery, and a food-court

miles from Bass Lake Recreation Area. Twin

outpost of Tony’s Neapolitan-style pizzeria.

Pine, nearly halfway between the wineries

Graton also opened a 200-room resort hotel

of the northern Napa Valley and Lake

Just because California has casinos

and spa in 2016.

County, is said to be the nation’s only wine-

doesn’t mean games there play the

Other Native American casinos in this

themed casino destination. Red Hawk, in

same way they’d play in Las Vegas or

region are small but superlative in other

Placerville, offers child-care services for

ways. Many, including Thunder Valley (Lin-

tykes while mom and dad play.

coln), Chukchansi (Coarsegold), Twin Pine

Most of the other gambling options in

(Middletown) and Cache Creek (Brooks)

Northern California are card rooms, and

also have full-service hotels. Chukchansi is

many are located in the suburbs of San Francisco and Sacramento. The two most popular: San Jose’s Bay 101 Casino, which

» KNOW THE RULES Atlantic City. Perhaps the biggest differences: craps and roulette. State gaming laws expressly prohibit the outcome of a game to be determined by dice or a ball. While the games incorporate traditional elements

hosts a number of World Poker Tour events

of dice and a ball, the games

throughout the year, and Colma’s Lucky

themselves hinge on overturning

Chances, which doles out nearly $1 million

different types of cards.

in cash prizes over the course of every year.

For novices (or those just looking

Casino M8trix, in San Jose, distinguishes

for a good time), these differences

itself with a thumping nightclub.

are minimal. For hard-core craps and roulette players, however, they make

SoCal and LA

the games so foreign that adjusting

Southern California—from the northern

becomes tough. Ask the croupier to

edge of the San Fernando Valley to the Mexico border, the Pacific Ocean to I-15—is home to some of the biggest Native American casinos in the state, including Harrah’s Resort Southern California in Valley Center;

review the rules before buying-in. If a game seems confusing, don’t bother; there are dozens of other options throughout the casino.

Pala Casino Spa Resort in Pala; Barona

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 55

CASINOS

BARONA RESORT & CASINO, above.

Resort & Casino in Lakeside; and Pechanga

Morongo Casino Resort & Spa in Cabazon,

sible venues are located in South Lake Tahoe.

Resort & Casino in Temecula. All of these

for instance, $199 per night gets guests a

Here, the Montbleu Resort, Casino & Spa

properties boast Vegas-style hotels with

room plus a $30 casino credit and a $100

(formerly a Caesars property) is by far the

eateries, shopping and spas. In early 2018,

credit at one of the on-site restaurants. Sim-

swankiest, with ultra-modern lounges and a

Viejas Casino & Resort, just outside San

ilar deals are available at the Agua Caliente

four-diamond steakhouse that makes Ruth’s

Diego, added the adults-only Willows Hotel

Casino Resort Spa (Rancho Mirage). Most

Chris seem like McDonald’s. The Hard Rock

& Spa with 159 suites to its 234-room hotel.

area casinos have their own golf courses,

Hotel & Casino Lake Tahoe, with 500 hotel

Closer to Los Angeles, the name of the

but locals rave about Eagle Falls, the course

rooms and a 25,000-square-foot casino,

game is card rooms. Two facilities are worth

at Fantasy Springs Resort Casino in Indio.

opened in 2015 in the old Horizon Casino

visiting for their grandeur alone: the Com-

The 18-hole course was designed by archi-

Resort space located down the street.

merce Casino (Commerce) and the Bicycle

tect Clive Clark.

Of course the best thing about casinos at

expansive poker rooms and host some of

Lake Tahoe

Nevada, they play by Nevada rules (see

the most popular tournaments in the area.

Okay, okay, so the casinos that sidle up to

sidebar). Since sports books and dice games

Lake Tahoe are on the Nevada side of the

are illegal in the state of California, this

The Desert

state line. Still, they’re close enough to most

means Tahoe is the spot to place those

Package deals abound for stay-and-play

other destinations in California that they

kinds of bets.

vacations at casino resorts in and around

deserve a mention here.

the Coachella Valley and Palm Springs. At

56 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Excluding those in Reno, the most acces-

Big spenders, consider yourselves warned.

And good luck.

SHERRY V SMITH/SHUTTERSTOCK

Lake Tahoe is that because they’re in

Club (Bell Gardens). Both venues have

CHUKCHANSI GOLD RESORT & CASINO Top-notch gaming in the Sierra foothills

BY MICHAEL SHAPIRO

»

FIND YOUR GAMING EXPERIENCE

chukchansigold.com

LOCATED 35 MILES NORTH of Fresno

the Italian specialties at Nativo’s. Even if

and near Yosemite National Park, the

you don’t venture into the great outdoors,

Chukchansi Gold Resort & Casino offers

you can enjoy breathtaking views of the

world-class entertainment, elegant dining

Sierra through the large picture windows at

and state-of-the-art gaming. And there’s a

Nativo’s. For variety, indulge in the daily

luxurious hotel with more than 400 rooms

specials at the California Market Buffet—if

and suites.

you’re there on Sunday, the buffet hosts a

What makes Chukchansi Gold remark-

Champagne brunch. For something lighter,

able is that you can enjoy all the action by

try the Asian delicacies at Noodle Bar. All

night and visit Yosemite or other recre-

restaurants are smoke-free.

ational areas in the Sierra by day.

Full Resort Amenities Newly renovated hotel rooms, designed to

The Chukchansi Gold resort offers a variety

provide a luxurious experience, are com-

of table games ranging from Ultimate Texas

fortable and refined, complementing the

Hold’em to blackjack. There are a couple of

natural ambiance of the surrounding Sierra

versions of pai gow, including face up, and

foothills. Depending on availability, you

a game called Richer Roulette that uses 38

may find a last-minute special at 20 percent

tiles instead of a roulette wheel (traditional

off. If you go, be sure to check out the enter-

roulette games involving a wheel and ball

tainment schedule as the Firehouse Lounge

are not sanctioned in California).

hosts top acts, such as country bands, and

There are nearly 1,800 slot machines on the casino floor, which occupies more than

Rounding out the resort are the indoor-

50,000 square feet. Themes range from Lord

outdoor pool, a gym, and the Serenity

of the Rings to Wheel of Fortune to Zorro.

Springs Spa offering therapeutic massage,

There’s a machine called Shoot to Win

cleansing body wraps and soothing facials.

Craps that re-creates the betting zones of a

There are spa packages such as Day of

typical craps table game.

Beauty, a seven-hour session that includes

For dinner, satisfy your hunger with the black angus beef at Vintage Steakhouse or

58 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

has DJ nights.

a Swedish massage, facial, mani-pedi, hair styling, make-up and spa lunch.

CHUKCHANSI GOLD RESORT & CASINO

THE ACTION GETS HOT when your number comes up at Chukchansi Gold, below.

Five-Star Casino & Dining

MUSEUMS & ART

BY LAURIE WEED

State of the Arts The Left Coast pays tribute to art, science and culture

The Norton Simon Museum began as the Pasadena Art Institute in 1922 and was renamed in 1975 for art collector and museum director Norton Simon. The museum comprises a collection of about 12,000 objects that include paintings by Raphael, Rembrandt, van Gogh and Degas, and a significant collection of Indian and Southeast Asian sculpture that spans more than 2500 years.

Above, an art student traces the lines of a sculpture in one of the museum’s galleries.

60 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Whether you prefer to ogle modern art or

County Museum of Art (LACMA). Down-

antiquities, Ice Age fossils or space shuttles,

town, the Museum of Contemporary Art

the Golden State’s wealth of world-class

(MoCA) and Geffen Contemporary show-

museums awaits. With more than 1,000

case the best in 20th- and 21st-century

museums of all sizes across the state,

painting, sculpture and conceptual art. The

there’s a lifetime of fine art, science, history

Institute of Contemporary Art (ICA LA), for-

and culture to explore, as well as weird and

merly the Santa Monica Museum of Art, is

wonderful collections for every imaginable

now housed downtown to great acclaim.

niche-interest, from Star Wars memorabilia

The renowned Getty Museum includes

to the legends of Bigfoot. While it’s impos-

both the modern Getty Center in the Brent-

sible to do them all justice here, we’ve

wood district and the Getty Villa in Malibu,

attempted to highlight the best of the best.

which focuses on Greek and Roman classical art. Pasadena’s Norton Simon displays

The Arts

European and Modern artists amid a serene

Visiting LA? It’s easy to spend hours in the

sculpture garden. In nearby San Marino,

West’s largest art museum, the Los Angeles

The Huntington features an impressive

VISIT PASADENA. OPPOSITE: COURTESY SFMOMA; VISIT CARMEL

NORTON SIMON MUSEUM

THE SAN FRANCISCO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART (SFMOMA), right, is one of the largest museums in the country and one of the world’s biggest museums dedicated to modern and contemporary art; art exhibition in Carmel, below.

library, art collections and 120 acres of

of Photographic Arts in Balboa Park, as well

botanical gardens.

as The Annenberg Space for Photography in

San Francisco’s Legion of Honor, in Lincoln Park, holds an extraordinary per-

LA and Pier 24 Photography Museum in San Francisco.

manent collection and hosts top-notch exhibitions from around the world. In

Science

nearby Golden Gate Park, the de Young

The California Science Center in Los

Clock” and the crawl-through Tactile Dome.

showcases the arts of Africa, Oceania and

Angeles’ Exposition Park presents exhibits

Designed for explorers under eight,

the New World. The San Francisco

for all ages on invention, space travel and

Sausalito’s Bay Area Discovery Museum is a

Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA) spans

life sciences—many of them interactive, all

pint-sized

10 dazzling floors of galleries and 45,000

of them free! Ice Age enthusiasts and fossil-

promoting creative thinking. And, while

square feet of free public art space. Across

philes will love the popular and gloriously

not a museum per se, the Monterey Bay

the Bay, the Oakland Museum of Cali-

sticky La Brea Tar Pits and Museum, an

Aquarium deserves to be included among

fornia (OMCA) is dedicated to native arts,

active geological site in Midtown. San Fran-

the Wonders of the World for its aston-

history and ecology, and sponsors many

cisco’s California Academy of Sciences, in

ishing displays of sea otters and jellies,

family-friendly events and hands-on

Golden Gate Park, features the impressive

mesmerizing three-story kelp forest and a

activities.

Steinhart Aquarium, a walk-through rain-

staggering million-gallon “Outer Bay” tank.

Down the coast, the Santa Barbara

forest

with

free-ranging

birds

Wonderland

dedicated

to

and

Museum of Art deserves a nod for its ambi-

butterflies, the world’s largest, all-digital

Culture

tious and imaginative exhibitions. San

planetarium and a “Living Roof” with 1.7

California is a rare and enduring alloy of

Diego’s Museum of Contemporary Art fea-

million native California plants. The long

more than 50 ethnic groups. Its museums

tures a variety of exhibits in the historic

admission lines can be daunting, but it’s

reflect the racial diversity and cultural his-

Jacob building downtown (its oceanfront La

worth the effort. At Piers 15 and 17 on the

tory of this melting pot in microcosm.

Jolla property is closed for expansion, soon

Embarcadero, the legendary Exploratorium

What follows is but a sample; there are

to quadruple its gallery space). For photog-

houses

many, many more to choose from.

raphy buffs, there’s the excellent Museum

exhibits—including an amazing “Tinkerers’

more

than

650

interactive

San Francisco’s Contemporary Jewish Museum and Museum of the African Diaspora (MoAD) provide fascinating insights into two of California’s most creative ethnic traditions. A visit to the Asian Art Museum in Civic Center is the next best thing to a trip along the ancient Silk Road.

In Long Beach, the Museum of Latin American Art (MoLAA) features contemporary works of the New World. San Diego’s tiny-but-mighty New Americans Museum honors the cultural diversity of immigrants through art and storytelling in Liberty

Station—also

home

to

the

Women’s Museum of California, one of just three museums in the country dedicated to women’s history.

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 61

PERFORMING ARTS

BY LAURIE WEED

Raise the Curtain The arts are thriving in California hosts the annual Young Playwrights Festival). The city’s star attraction is the Center Theatre Group, with everything from topshelf

classics

to

cutting-edge

solo

performances on three stages: the Mark Taper Forum, the Kirk Douglas Theatre and the Ahmanson Theatre.

San Francisco’s legendary American Conservatory Theater (A.C.T.), Magic Theatre and Z Space are just a few of the city’s beloved native companies—not to mention the politically charged San Francisco Mime Troupe, now in its 62nd year. For solo performance, check out both Intersection for the Arts and The Marsh, which has locations in San Francisco and Berkeley. A terrific addition to the Bay Area theater scene is We Players, “connecting people with place through site-integrated theatre.”

Across the Bay Bridge, Berkeley Repertory Theatre continues its tradition of inspired experimentation. And don’t

SAN FRANCISCO SYMPHONY

Performance is the lifeblood of the arts,

overlook “Cal Shakes”—the California

especially in California. From the Barbary

Shakespeare Company—with its gorgeous

The San Francisco Symphony, founded in 1911, is recognized as one of the country’s preeminent orchestras. Music director Michael Tilson Thomas, above, has led the orchestra since 1995 and is the longest-serving music director in the Symphony’s history. Don’t wait to see him conduct, because he will step down following the 2019-2020 season.

Coast docks to the Paramount studio lots,

open-air venue in the Orinda hills.

drama, dance and music have always been an indelible part of the “Left Coast” spirit.

The state’s scores of concert halls, symphony orchestras, theaters, jazz clubs, dance

companies,

comedy

troupes,

cabarets, operas and fringe festivals lay waste to the notion of spending a quiet evening (or even an afternoon) at home. A full accounting is impossible, but here are some suggestions to consider.

Regional Theaters Los Angeles, not surprisingly, supports dozens of outstanding theater companies— such as Open Fist, Actor’s Co-op, diverse Cornerstone and Blank Theatre (which

62 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

ALESSANDRA MELLO/BERKELEY REPERTORY THEATRE; IRENE YOUNG. OPPOSITE: STEFAN COHEN; SAM ZAUSCHER

A SCENE FROM PARADISE SQUARE with actors Hailee Kaleem Wright, Karen Burthwright, Sidney Dupont, Chloé Davis, Sir Brock Warren, Jamal Christopher Douglas and Jacobi Hall, Berkeley Repertory Theatre, left; Zoe Fitzgerald Carter performing with Sugartown at Berkeley’s Freight & Salvage, below; San Diego’s California Ballet performance of Noche Latina Bolero with dancers Isaiah Bindel and Ana da Costa, opposite bottom.

San Diego’s venerable La Jolla Playhouse

Opera and Los Angeles Opera are two of the

has seen dozens of its productions move to

largest in North America, with global repu-

Broadway, earning 38 Tony Awards. The Old

tations. Kudos as well to the Long Beach

Globe Theatre presents the plays of Shake-

Opera, now in its fourth decade.

speare (of course), as well as works by

Ballet in the Golden State has an equally

the likes of Arthur Miller and an annual

impressive pedigree. The San Francisco

Christmas production penned by a late

Ballet, founded in 1933, was the first pro-

local resident: Dr. Seuss.

fessional ballet company in the country.

Other excellent California theaters

The California Ballet Company in San

include the South Coast Repertory in Costa

Diego, largest in the region, has a stellar

Mesa and the Sacramento Theatre Com-

international reputation. Founded in

Rock ’n’ Roll ’n’ More

pany. Finally, the state hosts at least five

2004, the Los Angeles Ballet is a relative

From the Doors to the Dead, California has

major Fringe Festivals.

newcomer to the scene, while the reinvig-

long been Ground Zero for great live music.

th

In San Francisco, check out what’s on at the

orated Oakland Ballet is now in its 55

Symphonies, Opera & Ballet

season.

Frank Owen Gehry designed the Walt Disney

Fillmore, the Warfield, the Independent and Great American Music Hall. Some of

Concert Hall, home of the renowned Los

Jazz & Blues

the best venues in the East Bay include the

Angeles Philharmonic, to be one of the most

Here’s a quick sampler of the state’s best

Fox and the glorious Paramount Theatre in

acoustically perfect performance spaces

jazz and blues clubs. Oakland offers the leg-

Oakland, as well as Berkeley’s Freight &

on Earth. California’s other preeminent

endary Yoshi’s in Jack London Square and

Salvage and Greek Theatre—known simply

orchestra is the San Francisco Symphony,

Geoffrey’s Inner Circle downtown. In San

as “the Greek.” In Marin County, the reincar-

directed by the legendary Michael Tilson

Francisco, don’t miss the SF Jazz Center and

nated Sweetwater Music Hall often hosts

Thomas, at home in Louise M. Davies Sym-

for blues, try The Saloon and Club Deluxe.

well-known artists.

phony Hall. San Diego, Sacramento,

In Santa Cruz, it’s all happening at the

Looking to rock it in LA? Check out the

Oakland, Santa Cruz and Santa Barbara all

Kuumbwa Jazz Center, and in Sacramento

Troubadour, the Roxy and Whisky a Go Go,

support superb orchestras as well.

(for blues), The Torch Club. In LA, find the

an LA institution since 1964. Some other

Opera still maintains a huge following in

hottest new offerings at the Jazz Bakery,

legendary California venues include the

California, with more than thirty compa-

along with the tiny Baked Potato and the

Catalyst in Santa Cruz, the Casbah and “the

nies across the state. The San Francisco

Catalina Jazz Club.

Brick” (Brick by Brick) in San Diego.

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 63

STATE & NATIONAL PARKS

BY BONNIE SMETTS

Naturally Awesome

YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK First protected by Abraham Lincoln in 1864, then championed by John Muir to become a national park in 1890, Yosemite is one of America’s most beloved and visited national parks. It is known for its soaring granite cliffs and majestic waterfalls as well as some of the country’s most dramatic and accessible backcountry wilderness. Yosemite Valley, where most visitors spend much of their time, has a wide range of recreational activities, including cycling to see the sights, the best way to get around.

64 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Scramble up boulders in Joshua Tree’s

Choose a gentle half-hour hike or reserve a

Wonderland of Rocks. Time travel on a his-

spot for the all-day climb up Half Dome.

toric ship in San Francisco Bay. Stand

Junior Ranger Walks are popular with kids.

beneath giant redwoods that author John

Backpackers can enjoy the solitude of the

Steinbeck called ambassadors from another

park’s high country and expert rock

time. Whatever your passion, California’s

climbers have dozens of granite walls to

280 state parks and 32 national parks,

scale. Don’t leave the park without stopping

seashores and monuments—whose mis-

at Glacier Point with its views of Half Dome

sion is to protect the state’s natural and

and Yosemite Valley or at the Mariposa

cultural treasures—are the gateway to expe-

Grove of giant sequoias to marvel at its

riences as varied as the state’s geography.

2,700-year-old Grizzly Giant.

To see a really big tree—the world’s

Yosemite & the Sierra Nevada

largest by volume—head south to Sequoia

Yosemite National Park, with its glacier-

and Kings Canyon National Parks and

sculpted valley and granite peaks, is

marvel at the weighty General Sherman.

justifiably one of the world’s natural treas-

While still in the mountains, take a trip to

ures. Come in spring when the waterfalls

Lake Tahoe, North America’s largest alpine

thunder to the valley floor. Come in

lake. Along the lake’s west shore, D.L. Bliss,

summer when the park is abuzz with visi-

Emerald Bay and Sugar Pine Point state

tors to explore by tram, bike or on foot.

parks offer camping, hiking and white sand

DELAWARE NORTH IN YOSEMITE PARK. OPPOSITE: M01229/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; NOANYFRAMES/SHUTTERSTOCK

Spend a day or fill a week exploring California’s natural grandeur

EMERALD BAY, LAKE TAHOE, left; giant coast redwood trees at Redwood National Park, Humboldt County, below.

beaches. Farther north at Lassen Volcanic

groves as well as picnic sites, campgrounds

National Park, watch California take shape

and trails for hikers, cyclists and horses.

in the roaring fumaroles, thumping mud pots and boiling pools.

Burning Sands & Delicate Wildflowers Miles from the coast, California’s deserts are

Giants in the Mist

lands of extremes. Vast Death Valley

While the Sierras are home to the heftiest

National Park holds the record for the

redwoods, the state’s fog-shrouded coastal

hottest temperature, driest climate and

range from Oregon to Big Sur boasts the

lowest elevation in North America. It is also

loftiest—several are taller than the Statue of

famous for its explosion of wildflowers after

Liberty. These rare trees, once logged to

winter rains. For a bird’s-eye panorama, stop

near extinction, are now protected within

at Dante’s View. On the valley floor, walk the

its name. While both have spring wild-

California’s redwood parks.

Badwater Salt Flats or take an afternoon

flower displays, Anza-Borrego Desert State

At Humboldt Redwoods State Park,

drive to Zabriskie Point to snap the garishly

Park is legendary. Its flowers are usually the

home to the largest continuous old growth

colored badlands. Trips to Titus Canyon and

first to burst into color—catching the park’s

redwood forest on earth, drive the 31-mile

the Racetrack take you deeper into the park’s

cactus bloom is the prize.

Avenue of the Giants and make stops along

unique landscape, but only for those with

the way to stroll among the titans. Founders

proper vehicles and preparation. Unfortu-

To the Beach

Grove with its majestic 346-foot specimen

nately the road to Scotty’s Castle remains

A visit to California is incomplete without

is always a favorite. Visit in spring to see the

closed due to flood damage until the fall of

spending time on the beach, but not all of

pink redwood lilies and purple calypso

2021. Furnace Creek Campground, one of

them are the iconic white sandy kind. You

orchids in bloom.

nine in the park, with sites for RVs, groups

will find black sand at Sinkyone Wilderness

Farther north and closer to the coast, the

and tents, provides a central location for

State Park on the north coast. At the Men-

Redwood National and State Parks is a col-

exploring the park. Because of favorable

docino Headlands State Park, bundle up

lection of four parks with miles of

weather and temperatures, fall to spring is

and enjoy a beach walk with a view of the

unspoiled coast and hiking trails. The

the park’s busiest time.

Victorian village.

tallest recorded Coast Redwood hides here,

The Mojave National Preserve is famous

Closer to San Francisco, the sweeping arc

its location kept secret to protect it. How-

for its singing sand dunes and seven-mil-

of Point Reyes National Seashore is home to

ever, you can visit the remote Tall Trees

lion-year-old volcanic cinder cones. Joshua

a dozen beaches, with drive-up Drakes

Grove if you have a day to spare and want to

Tree National Park, a favorite with rock

Beach and hike-in Limantour as favorites.

nab one of the daily permits. But all the

climbers, mountain bikers and birders, is

Make your way to park headlands in early

parks provide easy access to magnificent

home to the gangly tree that gives the park

spring to view the gray whale migration.

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 65

STATE & NATIONAL PARKS POINT REYES LIGHTHOUSE at Point Reyes National Seashore, left; taking a day hike in Yosemite National Park, below.

dreamers better than the Hearst San Simeon State Historical Monument, a testament to publisher William Randolph Hearst and architect Julia Morgan. Tour the 115-room castle and imagine the presidents, publishing luminaries and Hollywood stars who gathered there. Also at mid state, climbers and birders will not be disappointed at Pinnacles, California’s newest national park.

Whatever kind of experience you seek, from a city adventure to a high country trek, California’s parks have a surprise in store for Malibu Creek State Park where M*A*S*H

you. And whatever your destination, always

and Planet of the Apes were filmed. And

check current conditions and access infor-

then there’s Huntington Beach, a.k.a. Surf

mation before heading out.

City USA. Huntington State Beach’s soft make it the California classic.

Edging the entrance to San Francisco Bay,

Rocks to Castles

the beaches and cliff trails of the Golden

California is more than its geography. Living

Gate National Recreation Area are the gate-

history programs bring the past to life in

ways to urban adventures and historic sites

many parks. At Railtown 1897 Historic State

such as Alcatraz Island.

Park, ride the vintage trains that often appear

Continuing down the coast to Santa Cruz

in films, television productions and com-

and Monterey, surfing spots alternate with

mercials. At Indian Grinding Rock State

quiet coves that are home to sea otters and

Historic Park, visit a reconstructed village

seals. Behold the thousands of monarch but-

with a ceremonial roundhouse and presen-

terflies that winter at Natural Bridges State

tations by descendants of the Miwoks. The

Beach. In Carmel, whose beauty has been long

21 missions founded by the Spanish along El

favored by plein air artists, Point Lobos State

Camino Real, or the King’s Highway, pre-

Natural Reserve is a must-visit for everyone.

serve the arrival of non-natives to California.

Big Sur’s Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park offers

Old Town San Diego State Historic Park, with

stunning views of the rugged coast from its

its restored plaza and adobes, captures the

cliff-side trails. Access to Pfeiffer Beach, a day

period when San Diego grew from a Mexican

beach, is just south of the Big Sur Ranger Sta-

pueblo into an American town. And then

tion. The road to Big Sur has reopened after the

there’s gold fever. Pan for gold at Marshall

2017 landslides but check park websites for

Gold Discovery State Historic Park where the

current trail and park access information.

mineral was first discovered. Visualize a

At mid coast, rocky cliffs finally give way to warm water and California’s famous endless flat beaches. Movie buffs can camp at

66 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

miner’s life at Bodie State Historic Park, an intact ghost town from the era.

No

place

reflects

California’s

big

» FIND YOUR PARK Individual State Parks www.parks.ca.gov National Parks nps.gov/state/CA Campsites & Lodging Reservations State Parks: reservecalifornia.com National Parks: recreation.gov Lighthouses (many open to the public, some offering accommodations) nps.gov/maritime/inventories/ lights/ca.htm Wildflower Updates at Anza-Borrego Desert State Park Wildflower Hotline 760-767-4684 Or check the park’s website at www.parks.ca.gov.

Virtual Visits California State Parks in partnership with Google Maps offers virtual visits to 110 state parks www.parks.ca.gov/googletrekker

LUCKY-PHOTOGRAPHER/SHUTTERSTOCK; MARIDAV/SHUTTERSTOCK.

sand, safe swimming and good surfing

GOLF

BY ROBERT KAUFMAN

Tee It Up! Diverse geography offers spectacular options for swinging away DESERT COURSES PGA West—TPC Stadium Course Since opening in 1986, the TPC Stadium Course in La Quinta has been rated one of the “Top 100 Courses in the World” by GOLF Magazine.

This

7,300-yard

challenge

designed by Pete Dye hosts The American Express PGA golf tournament every January with players having to navigate cavernous bunkers, an island green (known as “Alcatraz”) at hole #17 as well as the menacing water-lined 18th. Named “Stadium” due to Dye’s ingenious plan to sculpt spectator seating into the natural terrain, one of the most memorable events includes Lee Trevino’s hole-in-one on #17 earning him $175,000 from a carry-over skin in the 1987

GOLF ACROSS THE STATE

with an astonishing array of mountains,

Indian Wells Golf Resort

California is one of the world’s top

valleys, forests, coastline and desert that

Only 20 minutes from Palm Springs Interna-

golf destinations, and no matter

has helped make the Golden State one of

tional Airport, golfers have the opportunity to

which region you choose, you’ll find a

the most attractive golf destinations on

play the Players Course (John Fought, 2007)

course to suit your game, whether it’s

the planet.

and Celebrity Course (Clive Clark, 2006) at a

on the coast at Pebble Beach Golf Links, above, in the desert at TPC Stadium Course in La Quinta, or in the mountains at Coyote Moon Golf Course in Truckee.

Taking advantage of these geological assets,

property with the distinction of being the

a who’s-who of golf course architects, from

only 36-hole public golf facility with both

old-school designers like Alister MacKenzie

courses on Golfweek’s “Best Courses You Can

and A.W. Tillinghast to modern-day shapers

Play” in California. Combined with a lighted,

such as Jack Nicklaus, Robert Trent Jones, Jr.

9-hole, natural grass putting course and a

and Tom Fazio, have crafted challenges to suit

53,000-square-foot clubhouse, this “muni”

every golfer’s taste and budget.

golf experience in the desert is unparalleled.

Today, there are more than 600 public

indianwellsgolfresort.com

courses scattered throughout California

68 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

ranging from iconic masterpieces like

OCEAN COURSES

Pebble Beach Golf Links on the Pacific coast

Pebble Beach Golf Links

to hidden gems such as Greenhorn Creek in

Located along the storied Monterey Penin-

the Gold Country. Depending upon skill

sula, there are few golf thrills like teeing-up

level and preferred environment, here are

for the first time on Pebble Beach Golf

some notable nuggets that will help create

Links, ranked No. 1 on Golf Digest’s

a golf experience of a lifetime.

“America’s 100 Greatest Public Golf

PHOTOGOLFER/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: ROBERT KAUFMAN

“Skins Game.” pgawest.com

Mother Nature has blessed California

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: Celebrity GC at Indian Wells Resort, Desert Willow (Firecliff GC), Greenhorn Creek GC, Spyglass Hill GC.

Courses.” At the Jack Neville/Douglas Grant

MOUNTAIN COURSES

design (1919), golfers can feel the presence

Whitehawk Ranch Golf Club

of the game’s biggest legends that have

Carved from the natural terrain of the

competed in the annual AT&T Pebble Beach

Mohawk Valley, approximately one hour

National Pro-Am and six U.S. Open Cham-

north of Lake Tahoe in the Plumas National

pionships. Jack Nicklaus said, “If I only had

Forest, the fairways are framed with native

one more round to play, I would choose to

grasses and a profusion of wildflowers.

play it at Pebble Beach.” pebblebeach.com

Seven meandering streams through tall pines, cedars, firs and quaking aspens con-

Spyglass Hill Golf Course Taking

a

page

from

tribute to the challenge and beauty of the Robert

Louis

Stevenson’s classic novel, Treasure Island,

6,955-yard, Dick Bailey-designed course. golfwhitehawk.com

Spyglass has hole names such as “Black Dog” and “Billy Bones,” hints for the unwary

Coyote Moon Golf Course

at this demanding 6,960-yard layout.

Nestled in a serene setting at 6,800 feet above

Designed (1966) by Robert Trent Jones, Sr.,

sea level in Truckee (Lake Tahoe) among tow-

holes 6, 8 and 16 are listed among the

ering

toughest on the PGA Tour. Spyglass features

outcroppings, the 7,177-yard Brad Bell design

two distinctly different kinds of terrain that

serves up one of the best mountain golf expe-

influence how the fairways look and play:

riences in the country. With generous

the first five holes roll through sandy sea-

fairways and not a single home to spoil the

side dunes while the remaining 13 holes cut

dramatic views, this upscale daily-fee course

through majestic pines with elevated

provides dramatic elements of risk, including

greens and strategically placed bunkers and

the 13th, a 200-yard par 3 that drops 80 feet

lakes to grab errant shots. pebblebeach.com

from tee to green. coyotemoongolf.com

pines

and

enormous

granite

SPAS & WELLNESS

BY LAVINIA SPALDING

Indulge Yourself California’s diverse wellness centers offer a full menu of rest and replenishment

This celebrated region and neighboring Sonoma Valley are known primarily for their wine, but their appeal runs deeper than that. You can pamper yourself at luxury spas—such as Indian Springs Resort & Spa in Calistoga, Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary in Freestone or Meadowood in Saint Helena—dine at some of California’s (and the USA’s) best restaurants, shop at trendy boutiques or live a little rougher and explore wild state parks.

70 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

San Francisco’s vibrant Japantown

munal baths costs only $30, or $15 with a

district—the oldest and largest in the

treatment (or free with any two treat-

U.S.—is a hot spot for shopping and

ments, such as the 80-minute Javanese

dining. Buses and bikes whiz by on the

Lulur: a jasmine-scented massage fol-

streets, teens congregate on corners, and

lowed by a turmeric and rice skin

tourists snap selfies in front of the Peace

exfoliation, a yogurt application and an

Pagoda. But inside Kabuki Springs & Spa,

exotic flower bath).

the city vanishes. All you’ll hear in the

For people around the globe, the name

dimly lit, Japanese-style communal baths

“California” evokes escape and conjures

is the gentle splashing of water paired

images of sunny beaches. But in today’s

with soft, soothing music. Recline in the

demanding, perpetually wired world, a true

dry sauna with chilled cucumber slices for

vacation requires more than just a break

your eyes, then continue to the steam

from the office; it takes unplugging, puri-

room and exfoliate with a lemon-sea salt

fying and restoring. Luckily, this is

scrub. Follow with a long, lazy soak in the

practically the state motto.

hot tub and—if you’re brave—a cold

California has been a resort destination

plunge. When you’re finished, start all

since the early 20th century, beckoning trav-

over again. In fact, linger all day: the com-

elers with its year-round temperate

CALISTOGA CVB. OPPOSITE: PETER COOPER/ISHOOT

NAPA VALLEY

INDIAN SPRINGS RESORT & SPA, Calistoga, opposite; spa pool at Terranea Resort, bottom.

weather, spectacular geography and mineral

ends and holidays), an adults-only pool

grape extracts, which includes a massage

springs. The 1950s brought yoga to the state,

with dining and beverage service, plus mud

and facial. Located on a private, two-hun-

and the 1960s ushered in a wave of young

baths, eucalyptus-steeped steam rooms

dred-fifty-acre estate, Meadowood also

hippies passionate about all-natural food

and a meditation pond.

offers golf, tennis, croquet, hiking and swimming.

and intentional living. Today, California is the nation’s vortex of personal health and

Wine Country Wellness

self-improvement, with spas and wellness

Though Napa Valley and Sonoma are

Spa Terra at the Meritage Resort, treatments

centers almost as ubiquitous as scenic

known for some of the world’s best grapes,

take place below the vineyard in an under-

views. From five-star luxury resorts and

you can soak up much more than wine in

ground wine cave. Treat yourself to the

posh day spas to holistic healing programs

this beautiful region. Residents and visitors

fifty-minute “uncork”: a grape-seed scrub

and “hippie hot springs,” the array of

alike have long enjoyed the area’s natural

followed by a skin-regenerating wine and

retreats will dazzle even the most experi-

mineral waters, and today’s spa menus

rosehip mud wrap (rich in minerals and

enced serenity seeker. Here are some of our

overflow with therapeutic ingredients such

antioxidants) and a sumptuous application

favorite spots for the ultimate escape.

as grape seeds and skins, rich in antioxi-

of cabernet grape-seed lotion. (Add on foot

dants and polyphenols.

and scalp treatments for an extra $25 each,

Taking the Waters

For

first-class

accommodations,

Many spas offer vineyard views, but at

a

or two for $40.) Use of the Jacuzzi and

Home to numerous large geothermal areas,

three-star Michelin dinner and extreme

California has for centuries been a cele-

pampering, visit the 14,000-square-foot

But it’s not all about grapes in wine

brated mineral springs destination, with

all-suite Meadowood Resort. At the spa,

country. At Solage, a 20,000-square-foot

myriad spas statewide. Two hours inland

choose a curated treatment package such as

Auberge spa, the signature treatment is “the

from Los Angeles, Desert Hot Springs offers

the three-and-a-half-hour “From the Vines,”

mudslide,” which combines a lavish mud

dozens of options, from the glamorous,

vinotherapy using free-radical-fighting

application with customized essential oils

steam room is included with services.

sprawling Two Bunch Palms (featured in the movie The Player) to cozy boutique inns like The Good House. The Central Coast also boasts famous baths, such as Tassajara, the first Zen monastery built outside of Asia. But small, funky Calistoga in the north is the state’s oldest spa town, renowned not only for hot springs but also abundant volcanic ash used for therapeutic mud treatments.

Eight thousand years ago, the Wappo Indians named the area “Ta La Ha Lu Si,” meaning “Beautiful Land” or “Oven Place,” and today spa facilities run the gamut from luxurious to laid-back. The oldest in Calistoga—and likely California—is Indian Springs, opened in 1862 by Sam Brannan, the first Gold Rush millionaire. Today the 17-acre property remains a refuge, featuring a 1913 Olympic-size mineral pool heated to 92-102 degrees depending on the season ($25 extra on weekdays, $50 extra on week-

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 71

SPAS & WELLNESS FACIAL IN SONOMA MISSION INN & SPA, left.

Massages are available, delicious plant-

Ultimately, California’s wellness cul-

based fare is provided, and sleeping

ture promises visitors far more than

quarters include shared heated yurts, pri-

relaxation; it ensures that this time you

vate cabins for an additional fee or

won’t need a vacation from your vacation.

creekside camping under the stars.

You’ll return home recharged and rejuvenated—that is, if you can bring yourself to

Health First

return home at all.

When the sublime Golden Door opened in Escondido in 1958, it was a pioneer among world’s finest health resorts, hosting Holfrom their “mud bar,” a soak in a private

lywood’s glitterati. Golden Door specializes

geo-thermal mineral pool and an optional

in fitness, Eastern philosophy, relaxation

snooze on one of their state-of-the-art

and opulence. Guests pre-arrange com-

vibrating sound chairs (think relaxing music

pletely customized five- or seven-day

meets gentle chair massage).

packages with fitness options as diverse as

And at Sonoma’s innovative and eco-con-

Pilates, fencing, tennis, dance, boxing and

scious Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary, the house

archery. Each stay includes healthy meals

specialty is a cedar enzyme “bath.” You’ll

and a cooking lesson, facial treatments,

immerse yourself to the chin in warm, finely

herbal wraps, a mani-pedi, mindfulness

ground cedar, rice bran and plant enzymes.

sessions, daily in-room massages and

Heated by natural fermentation, the treat-

much more. Plus, it’s a feel-good stay in a

ment is said to aid digestion, improve

larger sense, because Golden Door pledges

circulation and relieve muscle pain.

100 percent of its net profits to charity.

Om Sweet Om

ment experience (and a much lower cost of

When yoga came to America, some of the

entry), head to 1440 Multiversity in the

first studios appeared in Hollywood and

beautiful redwoods near Santa Cruz.

San Francisco. The practice has since

Named for the 1440 minutes in every day,

become a way of life for countless Califor-

this new immersive learning center offers

nians, and hundreds of top-notch centers,

an ever-changing roster of courses in such

from ritzy to rustic, cater to beginners and

disciplines as writing, art, music, spiritu-

gurus alike.

ality,

Or for the total mind-body-soul en-rich-

health,

nutrition,

lifestyle,

One of the world’s most renowned yoga

movement—you name it. Between classes,

retreats is tucked into the Santa Ynez

join in daily meditation, yoga, qi gong and

Mountains above Santa Barbara. At the

tai chi. Hike forest trails, treat yourself to a

White Lotus Foundation Center, guests

massage, and enjoy the infinity tub over-

spend their days doing sun salutations in a

looking the redwoods. You can also sign up

canyon with ocean views, hiking through

for (or add on) a few days of the R&R pro-

old-growth oaks, meditating in an under-

gram, which includes nutritious meals, use

ground Hopi-style kiva temple and

of the campus and daily meditation and

swimming in natural sandstone pools.

movement classes.

72 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

»

FIND YOUR SPA

Kabuki Springs & Spa kabukisprings.com Two Bunch Palms Resort & Spa twobunchpalms.com The Good House welcometothegoodhouse.com Tassajara Hot Springs sfzc.org/tassajara Indian Springs indianspringscalistoga.com Meadowood meadowood.com/spa Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary osmosis.com White Lotus whitelotus.org Golden Door goldendoor.com Solage solage.aubergeresorts.com Spa Terra meritagecollection.com/ meritageresort/ napa-valley-spa-resorts 1440 Multiversity 1440.org

SONOMA MISSION INN SPA

American spas. It’s since become one of the

SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA Epicenter of cultural treasures, scenic beauty and iconic attractions

BY LAURA DEL ROSSO TOP CITIES San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley, San Jose, Napa, Sonoma, Palo Alto, Santa Clara, Santa Rosa, Sausalito, Healdsburg, Petaluma INTERNATIONAL GATEWAYS San Francisco International Airport (SFO), 12 miles (19 km) from downtown San Francisco; Oakland International Airport (OAK), 8 miles (13 km) from downtown Oakland; San Jose International Airport (SJC), 4 miles (6 km) from downtown San Jose

T

he San Francisco Bay Area never disappoints visitors: the majestic towers of the Golden Gate Bridge, the San Francisco skyline and other cities of culture and great dining, ancient red-

wood groves, expansive vineyards and a coastline of rocky cliffs and sandy beaches. Combine those with a Mediterranean climate and a dynamic environment of high-tech entrepreneurs and it’s no wonder the San Francisco Bay Area encourages a seductive, can-do way of life that revolves around the high energy of its residents and the great out-

TOURISM WEBSITES sftravel.com visitberkeley.com santaclara.org sonomacounty.com stayhealdsburg.com visitpetaluma.com visitmarin.org

doors at its doorstep. The hub of the Bay Area is San Francisco, a city of visitoakland.org sanjose.org visitnapavalley.com sonomavalley.com santacruzca.org smccvb.com

diverse neighborhoods, world-class cuisine and a welcoming spirit of tolerance in the most European of American cities.

North Bay: Marin, Sonoma & Napa Across the Golden Gate to the north lies Marin County, one of the most beautiful and affluent areas of the U.S. Sausalito, Tiburon and Mill Valley are among its many inviting towns. The mountain bike was invented here to maneuver the twisty trails on Mount Tamalpais. On the Marin coast, one ruggedly gorgeous beach follows another, including along spectacular Point Reyes National Seashore.

Also in the North Bay, Sonoma and Napa counties are home to acres of vineyards and dozens of wineries producing some of the world’s

SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA

74 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

finest wines. Among the small towns full of boutiques, shops and tasting rooms is the Napa Valley hamlet of Yountville, a foodie dining mecca, with several Michelin-starred restaurants, and, a bit north, the

ULADZIK KRYHIN/SHUTTERSTOCK

POPULATION 7.35 million

GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE in San Francisco, opposite.

MUST

» spa town of Calistoga. More wineries

attractions such as San Jose’s Museum

are drawing visitors with architecturally

of Art and its Tech Museum, which pays

striking tasting rooms that offer wine

homage to the valley’s innovative spirit.

pairing with food, picnic grounds set in

Mountain View’s Castro Street and Palo

lavish gardens, and activities such as

Alto’s University Avenue are hopping,

bocce courts and vineyard tours.

and San Jose’s booming downtown and Santana Row shopping and dining

South Bay: Silicon Valley, San Mateo County & Santa Cruz

center are bustling.

In Palo Alto, on the peninsula south of

coastline still shows its traditional

San Francisco, lies the bucolic campus

fishing and agricultural roots. It’s

of Stanford University, one of the

within a short drive of major popula-

country’s leading universities. Silicon

tion centers yet a world away, with its

Valley—home of Apple, Facebook,

sprawling artichoke fields and miles of

Google, Intel and other high-tech power-

pristine beaches. Santa Cruz County to

houses—has emerged as a center for the

the south offers visitors a wealth of

arts, with a vibrant cultural scene and

attractions,

Neighboring San Mateo County’s

including

parks

PETALUMA

Start by crossing the Golden Gate Bridge driving north, stopping in SAUSALITO. Head northwest to MOUNT

TAMALPAIS STATE PARK and take the steep, twisting road to the Pantoll Ranger Station and drive the PANORAMIC

HIGHWAY for ocean, city and mountain views. Drive to

MUIR WOODS NATIONAL MONUMENT for a short walk among redwoods. Head back toward Sausalito and Highway 101 and drive north to the wine country town of SONOMA. Explore its shady plaza, surrounded by shops, wine tasting rooms and historic sites. From Sonoma, it’s a short drive to California’s other major wine region, Napa Valley, and the city of NAPA.

DO

»

SAN FRANCISCO TOP SIGHTS Fisherman’s Wharf and Chinatown offer even more reasons to visit. Along the pedestrian-friendly wharf visitors now can buy fish straight from the boats. The Cartoon Art Museum lies just east of the re-invigorated Ghirardelli Square, home to the San Francisco Brewing Co. and its beer garden. Meanwhile, on the North Beach edge of nearby Chinatown, the China Live complex offers an amazing variety of Chinese food choices. › sftravel.com

»

EAST BAY EXPLORATION Oakland’s lively Uptown, Temescal and Piedmont Avenue neighborhoods are filled with excellent restaurants, including Commis, Flora and Duende. The neighboring university town of Berkeley also offers much to discover, including the UC Berkeley campus, the Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive. The outdoors beckons at 2,000-acre Tilden Park, which has a lovely botanical garden and steam train that children adore. › visitberkeley.com

»

DRIVE

» TOUR

and

SEE,

SONOMA SOJOURN Sonoma County’s vineyard-covered landscape features dozens of renowned wineries. In the Russian River Valley appellation, visitors stroll among the shops of Sebastopol, Graton and Forestville and pick up picnic goodies for alfresco dining while sampling the county’s famous Pinot Noirs and other varietals. › sonomacounty.com

»

ICONIC HIGH TECH Silicon Valley giants open parts of their headquarters to visitors. Intel offers a Tech Museum and Apple’s futuristic campus includes a glass-walled visitor center. Facebook’s Menlo Park campus hosts a Saturday farmers market and features a thumbs-up (“like”) sign at 1 Hacker Way, a popular spot for selfies. Grab a bite along nearby Palo Alto’s University Avenue where Silicon Valley’s elite dine. › smccvb.com, santaclara.org

»

EXPLORE THE OUTDOORS Mount Tamalpais and the coast of Marin County just north of the Golden Gate Bridge are a spectacular playground for hikers, bikers and anyone who enjoys the outdoors.

Mount Tam affords stunning views and Muir Woods National Monument on its western flank wows visitors with its towering redwood grove. Oceanfront towns Stinson Beach and Bolinas have a laid-back vibe that is part of their charm. › visitmarin.org

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 75

INSIDER’S

» TIP

wineries in its redwood-covered mountain

cuisines, fascinating neighborhoods, parks,

range, and laid-back beaches where surfers

Victorian-era houses and world-class

polish their technique.

museums and cultural activities.

The city is easy to explore on foot, with

The Bay Area’s renowned food

East Bay: Berkeley & Oakland

the waterfront Embarcadero, Fisherman’s

On the eastern side of the bay lies the col-

Wharf, Chinatown and Union Square (the

MARKETS and food truck gatherings.

lege town of Berkeley, with its history of

largest shopping area in the western U.S.)

SAN FRANCISCO’S FERRY BUILDING

political idealism, University of California

all within a short walk of each other. Col-

is arguably the area’s top market.

academic prestige and coffeehouse intel-

orful vintage streetcars rumble down the

Other awesome markets are held in

lectualism. Berkeley is almost synonymous

Embarcadero and Market Street, con-

Berkeley, Healdsburg, Mountain

with Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse and the

necting to public transportation that

View and at Marin Civic Center.

movement to organic, local and seasonal

carries visitors to the city’s many diverse

FOOD TRUCKS serve up a mouth-

food. Berkeley’s larger neighbor, Oakland,

neighborhoods and to Golden Gate Park,

watering array of choices all around

is a culturally diverse city with vibrant

the large greenbelt that extends to the

the bay, including Fridays at the

neighborhoods, a booming downtown and

Pacific Ocean.

Oakland Museum of California and

lovely Lake Merritt, whose three-mile path

Sundays at San Francisco’s Presidio,

draws joggers and walkers.

can be sampled best at FARMERS

with spectacular views of the Golden Gate Bridge.

SAN FRANCISCO CABLE CAR, below; grape harvest, opposite.

The region’s other major cities are San Jose, where revitalization has brought an urban vibe, restaurants and museums

City & Town

downtown, and Oakland, which attracts

Even though it was surpassed in population

visitors with the Museum of California,

by San Jose long ago, San Francisco remains

bay-front Jack London Square and a trendy

the region’s cultural hub. The city draws

dining scene. Its college town neighbor,

more than 25 million travelers each year to

Berkeley, is home to the striking Berkeley

its dense 49 square miles containing its

Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive.

famously steep hills, thousands of restaurants offering an astonishing variety of

The Great Outdoors One of the world’s largest urban parks— the Golden Gate National Recreation Area—stretches over 60 miles of Bay Area coastline. The area encompasses beaches, historic sites, biking and hiking trails and vast open spaces to savor the Bay Area’s varied natural beauty. Among the highlights are the majestic Marin Headlands and San Francisco’s Presidio and Crissy Field, a popular walking area and restored wetlands that also draws kite boarders to the white-capped waters at the Golden Gate.

Rolling green hillsides dotted with California golden poppies make spring an especially ideal time to explore Mount Tamalpais and Muir Woods in Marin County. Point Reyes National Seashore’s beautiful coastal terrain contains an abundance of wildlife, including migrating shorebirds and ducks, whales that are

76 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

west of Silicon Valley and San Jose, are vast

museums, including the recently expanded

open space preserves, including Cali-

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, the

fornia’s oldest state park, Big Basin

Asian Art Museum, the de Young Museum

Redwoods, established in 1902.

and California Academy of Sciences in Golden Gate Park. In Oakland, there’s the

easily seen off the coast in migration season (mid January to mid March) and a herd of tule elk.

Heritage & Culture

Museum of California that celebrates the

Early Mexican and Spanish explorers and

state. The Cantor Arts Center at Stanford

settlers in the Bay Area left their mark,

has a large collection of Rodin sculptures.

mostly in place names but also in historic

A lively art scene is found throughout the

buildings from that era. San Francisco’s

Bay Area, home of the San Francisco Sym-

Mission Dolores, established in 1776, is the

phony, ballet, opera and dozens of theater

oldest building in San Francisco and the

and dance companies.

oldest intact original Mission in California.

Diverse cultural influences thrive in

The patchwork design of its beamed ceil-

pockets spread throughout the region,

ings resembles local Native American

including many from Asia: Japantown and

basket weaving. Other old missions are

Chinatown in San Francisco, another Chi-

found elsewhere in the Bay Area: in

natown in Oakland and Vietnamese and

Sonoma, San Rafael, Santa Clara, San Jose

Southeast Asian communities in San Jose

and Santa Cruz.

and neighboring cities. Mexican and other

Vestiges of San Francisco’s colorful past,

Latin American influences can be found

when the 1849 Gold Rush catapulted it from

throughout, particularly in San Francisco’s

There also is no lack of wide-open

a hamlet to a large city almost overnight,

Mission district, while Italian immigrants

spaces in the East Bay, where the regional

can still be seen in thousands of 19th-cen-

left their indelible mark in San Francisco’s

park district includes 65 parks covering

tury Victorians and quaint old quarters

North Beach and Sonoma and Napa wine-

113,000 acres in Alameda and Contra Costa

such as Alamo Square and Jackson Square.

growing areas.

counties. In the Santa Cruz mountains, just

The Bay Area is home to world-class

Family Fun

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2020

Spend a day at the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, a century-old amusement park famous for The Giant Dipper, a 1920s-era

LUKASZ SZWAJ/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: MUNI/CITYPASS

roller coaster. Families also enjoy the San CHINESE NEW YEAR PARADE Feb. 8, San Francisco chineseparade.com

Mateo County coast, particularly Half Moon

CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL April 11-19, San Francisco nccbf.org

Bay’s mid-October festival that features

SILICON VALLEY A LA CARTE & ART FESTIVAL, May 2-3, Mountain View alacarte.miramarevents.com

pumpkin carving and pie-eating contests.

Santa Clara’s Great America theme park

CARNAVAL May 23-24, San Francisco carnavalsanfrancisco.org

thrills visitors with the most water rides in

BAY TO BREAKERS May 31, San Francisco baytobreakers.com

Northern California.

STERN GROVE FESTIVAL Sundays, mid June-mid August, San Francisco sterngrove.org

San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf and

GAY PRIDE WEEKEND June 27-28, San Francisco sfpride.org

Pier 39 are lined with shops, restaurants,

KITE FESTIVAL July 25-26, Berkeley highlinekites.com

street performers and even a colony of sea

ART AND WINE FESTIVAL Sept. 5-6, Millbrae millbrae.miramarevents.com

lions that wows crowds. The pier also offers

HARDLY STRICTLY BLUEGRASS Oct. 1-2, San Francisco hardlystrictlybluegrass.com ART & PUMPKIN FESTIVAL Oct. 16-18, Half Moon Bay pumpkinfest.miramarevents.com UNION SQUARE TREE LIGHTING Nov. 27, San Francisco macys.com FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS Nov. 27, Yountville yountville.com

an antique carousel and the Aquarium of the Bay, with more than 20,000 marine animals.

Over in Golden Gate Park, the California Academy of Sciences draws families with its penguin exhibit, a walk-through rain forest and aquarium with a live coral reef tank.

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 77

BERKELEY This celebrated university city also hosts superb performing arts and dining

BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

Berkeley Visitor Information visitberkeley.com

BERKELEY and the University of California, above; Sunday street scene in downtown Berkeley, below.

walking tours of the North Berkeley food

speech and 1960s counter-culture, Berkeley, on

scene, as well as downtown Berkeley brunch

the eastern shores of San Francisco Bay, has

tours on Sundays.

morphed into a foodie destination and unique

One-of-a-kind

shopping

and

dining

shopping mecca. But it’s still Berkeley, proudly

abounds on Fourth Street, in West Berkeley.

offbeat, quirky and fun to visit, especially now.

Long centered north of University Avenue,

The Downtown Arts District on Addison Street

Fourth Street businesses are expanding their

showcases the Aurora Theatre Company and the

offerings south of University, too.

nationally known Berkeley Repertory Theatre.

Gorgeous brown-shingle wooden homes

The Freight & Salvage—which is both a perform-

and public buildings by celebrated architects

ance venue and folk-music learning center—has

Bernard Maybeck and Julia Morgan—who

recently presented the likes of western swing

adapted Arts and Crafts design to form the Bay

band Asleep at the Wheel, Canadian singer-

Region style in the early 20th century—enrich

songwriter Bruce Cockburn, Belgian big band

the city. Morgan’s 1930 Berkeley City Club, an

Flat Earth Society, and the UC Jazz Ensembles.

artful mash-up of Gothic and Moorish influ-

Art

ences, includes a 38-room hotel, event space,

Museum and Pacific Film Archive (BAMPFA),

indoor pool, Julia’s Restaurant, Morgan’s Bar

near the downtown Berkeley BART station,

& Lounge and a bocce ball court.

The

83,000-square-foot

Berkeley

opened in 2016. The station and surrounding

On campus, the circa 1903 Greek Theatre

BART Plaza, which got a $13 million renova-

presents headliners in its outdoor amphithe-

tion in the late teens, boasts public art pieces

ater,

and a nearby visitor information center on

international acts indoors to 2,700-seat Zeller-

Addison Street. North Berkeley, along and

bach Hall. You can debate the true meaning of

near Shattuck, is the city’s prime dining and

art in a plentitude of craft microbreweries and

food market destination, with its jewel in the

urban winery tasting rooms. Among the urban

crown, Chez Panisse, the citadel of fresh,

winemakers are Donkey & Goat, purveyors of

local, seasonal California cuisine. The 1966

unfiltered, minimally processed natural wines.

original Peet’s Coffee is right nearby, as is the

Downtown favorite Triple Rock brewpub, dating

collectively run Cheese Board cheese shop

to 1986, recently expanded its space by 50 per-

and bakery. Edible Excursions runs guided

cent for the production of quaffable brews.

78 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

while

Cal

Performances

brings

VISIT BERKELEY

SHOP, » DINE, SEE A PLAY

WORLD-FAMOUS as a historic center of free

HEALDSBURG Sonoma’s sophisticated, relaxed, wine country town

BY MARCY GORDON

Healdsburg Visitor Information stayhealdsburg.com

San Francisco off Highway 101, Healdsburg is

defining feature of Healdsburg is its beloved

the ideal home base from which to explore

historic plaza designed by Harmon Heald.

Sonoma wine country, named 2020 Wine

Complete with copper-topped gazebo and

Region of the Year by Wine Enthusiast maga-

shaded by towering redwoods and date

zine. Healdsburg is conveniently situated at

palms, the plaza is grand in scale but has an

the apex of three distinct AVAs (wine growing

intimate, accessible feel. One of the liveliest

areas) Dry Creek Valley, Alexander Valley and

town squares in Sonoma wine country, it

Russian River Valley. Wine, of course, is a

retains the charm of a small community, sur-

main focus of the town with more than 30

rounded by a vibrant and diverse retail scene.

tasting rooms and wineries within walking

The plaza plays host to numerous events including the highly regarded Healdsburg SUNSET IN A HEALDSBURG VINEYARD, above; Healdsburg’s Plaza, below.

nd

Enjoy the bounty of locally sourced

Jazz Festival, celebrating its 22 anniversary

ingredients and regional wines in a range

this year. Held in early June, it takes place in

of dining experiences, from casual cafés to

various venues and locations around town.

elite

On Tuesday evenings throughout the

County’s first Michelin 3-star-rated estab-

summer months, the plaza transforms into

lishment, Single Thread. Although most

an outdoor community living room where

famous for its wine, Healdsburg also has a

locals and visitors gather for a free concert

lively craft beer scene and artisan distill-

series. The summer also offers Art After

eries producing small batch spirits.

Dark on the last Friday of each month.

80 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

distance of its center.

restaurants

including

Sonoma

Beyond the city center, the Russian River

From the plaza it’s a leisurely stroll to the

and peaceful stands of ancient redwoods

many wine-tasting rooms, artisan bakeries,

are the focal point for canoeing and hiking,

coffee spots, cheese shops, art galleries, book-

and the mostly flat back roads that wind

shops and boutiques offering clothing, house

through the vineyard valleys make the area

wares and inspired one-of-a-kind gifts. Or

a world-class bicycling destination.

venture a few blocks off Center Street to see

Sophisticated, yet rustic, Healdsburg,

scores of colorful, well-preserved historic

with its agrarian roots, delivers small town

homes, many in use as B&Bs. Surrounded by

charm and a wine country lifestyle that’s

vineyards, and located just 70 miles north of

both laid-back and luxurious.

ALEXANDRA LATYPOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK; BRADLEY J. GILLETTE

TASTE, BROWSE, » DINE, EXPLORE

DATING FROM 1857, the centerpiece and

SANTA CLARA Silicon Valley city offers NFL and theme park fun, history, and high-tech

BY LAURA DEL ROSSO

DINE, SHOP, » TOUR A MUSEUM Santa Clara Visitor Information santaclara.org

WITH ITS SPRAWLING HIGH-TECH offices,

Galleries at the university’s de Saisset

Santa Clara at first glance may seem like

Museum describe the world of the Ohlones,

other Silicon Valley cities. But there’s much

who lived here for millennia, the early

more. In Santa Clara, you can trace California

missionaries, and also showcase art by

history from the Ohlones onward, learn how

Chagall and Picasso.

chips that gave the valley its name were

A Santa Clara visit wouldn’t be complete

created and immerse yourself in a treasured

without delving into computers. Intel, the

National Football League team.

pioneering company whose silicon chips

The San Francisco 49ers are the reason that, at least for sports fans, Santa Clara SANTA CLARA from the air, above; the Saint Clare statue honoring the city’s namesake stands in Civic Center Park as a reminder of the city’s history and connection to Mission Santa Clara de Asís, below.

power smart phones and laptops, offers a look inside the industry at its museum.

burst onto the spotlight in 2014 with the

You’ll see a “fab” facility where chips—

opening of Levi’s Stadium. The 69,900-seat

whose origins are simple beach sand—are

arena fills on game days but it’s a draw year-

made in a space thousands of times cleaner

round for other sporting events, concerts

than hospital operating rooms.

and a 49ers Museum where exhibits bring to life Super Bowl championships with Joe

Expanding Horizons

Montana, Jerry Rice and other greats.

Like the rest of Silicon Valley, Santa Clara is

Close by Levi’s is one of the west’s largest

in the midst of development. There’s a

theme parks, California’s Great America,

planned revitalization of downtown and a

known for thrilling rides, family-friendly

hotel, restaurant and nightlife project

entertainment and a water park that’s

called Related Santa Clara in the works near

expanding as the South Bay Shores in 2020.

Levi’s Stadium.

History, Culture & High-Tech

shopping and dining at Valley Fair, home to

To get a sense of local history, head to Santa Clara

Versace, Armani and other boutiques. And,

University and its lovely gardens and church,

at Santa Clara Square, there’s a brewery—

founded in 1777 as the eighth of California’s

Barebottle—opening in 2020, Fleming’s

missions. Although the current church dates

steak house plus Indian, Asian, Italian,

only to 1925, it holds mission remnants, such as

Halal, Greek and Mexican restaurants that

a crucifix brought to Santa Clara in 1802.

reflect the area’s ethnic diversity.

82 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

SANTACLARA.ORG

The city already offers an array of

CALIFORNIA’S GREAT AMERICA The all-new South Bay Shores water park opens in 2020

BY LAURA DEL ROSSO

SWOOP, GLIDE, » SPLASH, PLAY! California’s Great America Visitor Information cagreatamerica.com

FAMILIES LOVE Great America’s water park, above; the thrill of the slide, below.

WHETHER IT’S GLIDING DOWN towering

lounge chairs where families can unwind

water slides, splashing in lagoons or

and watch kids having fun in the water.

lounging in poolside cabanas, there’s more fun on tap in 2020 at California’s Great America.

New Facilities & Spine-Tingling Roller Coasters

In early summer, the region’s biggest

South Bay Shores also features a new

amusement park is opening South Bay

entrance, changing and showering rooms

Shores, a transformed water park. It

and two casual restaurants. Pier ’76 Cafe

replaces Boomerang Bay, expanding Great

dishes up fresh fish tacos and waffle fries and

America’s water park with eight attractions

Sand Bar serves food and adult beverages.

and double the play space.

Each have shaded areas with tables.

Wild Slides & Tide Pools

part of Cedar Fair Entertainment Co., draws

The biggest addition is the six-story Pacific

thousands each year to Santa Clara. For

Surge tower, where riders have the choice

little ones there’s a carousel, live family-

of three wild slides: Shark Reef Plunge

oriented shows and a variety of rides, some

that drops into a near-vertical free fall

inspired by Peanuts characters.

84 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

then swooshes through loops and curves;

Since its opening in 1976, it’s also been

Feeding Frenzy, five-story tubes that whisk

known for the adrenaline rush of its spine-

riders through enclosed tunnels and twists

tingling roller coasters.

and turns before plummeting them into a

The Patriot, a floorless coaster introduced in

sunny pool; and the even more thrilling

2017, immediately drew big crowds willing to

Barracuda, a faster slide with an even

ride up to 91-foot heights before plummeting

steeper plunge.

into a 360-degree loop. And, in 2018, RailBlazer

More tame is Tide Pool, a lagoon with

made its debut, wowing coaster lovers with its

eight slides and shallow play area. It’s just

breathtaking face-down, 90-degree drop and

steps away from a sun deck with cabanas and

twists through a zero gravity roll.

CALIFORNIA’S GREAT AMERICA

The 100-acre California’s Great America,

ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY Sample the best of Napa Valley

BY MICHAEL SHAPIRO

LOCATED IN OAKVILLE in the heart of

Kalon vineyard and cellar, with a taste of

DISCOVER » ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY

Napa Valley, the Robert Mondavi Winery

two wines ($30). The Twilight Tour &

was founded in 1966 with the idea that wine

Tasting includes an hour of walking through

is an essential element of a life well lived.

the vineyard and cellars and a half-hour

By the 1970s, Mondavi’s wines were helping

tasting ($65). All tours require reservations;

to elevate Napa’s profile, putting Northern

wine club members get discounts.

robertmondaviwinery.com (888) 766-6328

California’s vintages in a class with the best

An exceptional way to pair food and

bottles from France. Today, many of Mon-

wine at Robert Mondavi Winery is at their

davi’s wines earn 90+ scores and are among

Harvest of Joy lunch or Garden to Table

the most sought-after in the world.

dinner ($125, $165). Both include tours fol-

ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY, above; the To Kalon Wine Cellar, below.

Mondavi’s handsome winery, in a verdant valley beneath the tawny hills of the

lowed by a sumptuous three-course meal prepared by Mondavi’s chefs.

Mayacamas Mountains, features a range of tours, tastings and food pairings. Robert

Special Events

Mondavi believed that wines should reflect

Throughout 2020, Mondavi hosts enticing

their origins and he had a deft touch bal-

events. Among them: the Chardonnay and

ancing

Crab Feast on Feb. 22, the Wine and Choco-

winemaking

traditions

with

modern manufacturing processes.

late Walk-Around Tasting on April 19, Dinner Under the Stars on Aug. 22, the Autumn Fete

86 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

on Sept. 19, and Pinot and Paella on Nov. 7.

The in-depth, 75-minute Signature Tour &

The 10th Annual Tree Lighting Benefit

Tasting takes visitors from the vines to the

for the Napa Valley Food Bank includes

cellar (including fermentation and barrel

horse-and-buggy rides, holiday caroling,

aging) and ends with sampling three fin-

hot apple cider and of course wine tasting.

ished wines ($50). It’s offered in English and

The benefit, on Dec. 5, is free to wine club

Mandarin. The Discovery Tour is a 30-

members and those bringing a bag of

minute introduction to the historic To

canned goods for the food bank.

ROBERT MONDAVI WINNERY

Tours and Tastings

CENTRAL COAST Where Californians really go to relax

TOP CITIES Santa Cruz, Monterey, Carmel, Pacific Grove, Salinas, Gilroy, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, Paso Robles, Morro Bay, Cambria, Ventura, Lompoc, Solvang, Buellton, Pismo Beach, Santa Maria, Camarillo, Oxnard, Port Hueneme INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY San Francisco International Airport (SFO), 62 miles (100 km) from Santa Cruz; 101 miles (163 km) from Monterey; Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), 98 miles (158 km) from Santa Barbara; 192 miles (309 km) from San Luis Obispo

S

outh of the San Francisco Bay Area, the coastal region from Santa Cruz through San Luis Obispo has views that rival the rest of the state. Within earshot of the crashing waves of the

Pacific Ocean, this is where many Californians vacation, so it’s the ideal place to slow down and adopt an appreciation of the great outdoors and a laid-back lifestyle.

The three largest population centers of the Central Coast are

seemonterey.com pacificgrove.org visitgilroy.com santabarbaraca.com morrobay.org visitventuraca.com explorelompoc.com

Santa Cruz, the Monterey Peninsula and Santa Barbara. In historic Monterey, small-town Pacific Grove and fashionable artist retreat Carmel-by-the-Sea, there are beautiful beaches, performing and fine arts venues, outdoor pursuits, stylish shops, epicurean delights and an inland region known for wine and agriculture.

Much of the same can be said of funky Santa Cruz, but away from the redwoods, the university town resembles a beachside playground, with its historic boardwalk and many surf spots. Santa Barbara lures travelers with its white Spanish-style buildings, redtiled roofs, vast beaches, plenty of fine arts venues, bright

POPULATION 2,242,000

boutiques, outdoor adventures, culinary tastes and an inland region (the Santa Ynez Valley, featured in the movie Sideways) known for wine and Santa Maria-style barbecue.

CENTRAL COAST

88 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Even though the Central Coast region’s main highlight is indeed, its coast, the varied geography and moderate climate ensure that

MEUNIERD/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: PHOTOCRITICAL/SHUTTERSTOCK

TOURISM WEBSITES santacruzca.org carmelcalifornia.com cityofsalinas.org/visitors sanluisobispocounty.com travelpaso.com visitcambriaca.com venturacountycoast.com highway1discoveryroute.com solvangusa.com visitbuellton.com santamariavalley.com experiencepismobeach.com

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

there are plenty of treats for visitors to

City & Town

enjoy. Whether your preference is digging

Downtown Santa Cruz lies between the

for clams, surfing the perfect wave,

city’s vibrant beach attractions and the

strolling small village streets, sampling

redwood-rich mountains, where the Uni-

fresh regional cuisine and world-famous

versity of California at Santa Cruz is

wines, or lazing on the beach and

perched among groves of the huge trees.

watching the changing tide, it’s all right

Fisherman’s Wharf in Monterey is steps

here on the Central Coast—and there’s

from the city’s historic buildings that date

enough for everyone.

from the 18th and 19th centuries—before

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2020

MUST

»

SEE, DO

»

California Origins Visit Mission Santa Barbara, established in 1786 and known as “Queen of the Missions.” It was the 10th of 21 California Missions to be founded by the Spanish Franciscans.

›

santabarbaramission.org

» Wild Coast Cruise Highway 1 along the majestic SANTA BARBARA INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Jan. 15-25, Santa Barbara sbiff.org AT&T PEBBLE BEACH NATIONAL PRO-AM Feb. 3-9, Pebble Beach attpbgolf.com

Big Sur coast, where the sky touches the sea.

›

bigsurcalifornia.org

»

JAZZ BASH BY THE BAY March 6-8, Monterey jazzbashmonterey.com

American Riviera Step off Stearns Wharf in Santa Barbara and stroll along the miles of beaches studded with palm trees.

SAN LUIS OBISPO INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL March 17-22, San Luis Obispo slofilmfest.org

›

TASTE OF SOLVANG March 20-22, Solvang solvangusa.com

»

SANTA BARBARA RESTAURANT WEEK Feb. 21-March 6, Santa Barbara sbrestaurantweeks.com

PEBBLE BEACH FOOD & WINE April 16-19, Pebble Beach pbfw.com PASO ROBLES WINE FESTIVAL May 14-17, Paso Robles pasowine.com/events/winefest

Monterey’s Historic District Find Old Monterey’s adobes and gardens from the Spanish and Mexican eras, including the site of California’s first Constitutional Convention, scattered near Fisherman’s Wharf.

CALIFORNIA STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL May 16-17, Oxnard strawberry-fest.org

›

I MADONNARI May 23-25, Santa Barbara imadonnarifestival.com

»

LOS OLIVOS JAZZ & OLIVE FESTIVAL June 6, Los Olivos jazzandolivefestival.org SUMMER SOLSTICE CELEBRATION June 19-21, Santa Barbara solsticeparade.com SAN BENITO COUNTY SADDLE HORSE SHOW & RODEO June 26-28, Hollister sanbenitocountyrodeo.com

santabarbaraca.com

seemonterey.com

Nine Sisters Stretching between Morro Bay and San Luis Obispo, the craggy peaks of the Nine Sisters provide beautiful vistas in the Central Coast. Get up close to one of them, Morro Rock, in Morro Bay.

›

morrobay.org

STEINBECK FESTIVAL July, see website for details, Salinas steinbeck.org CALIFORNIA WINE FESTIVAL July 17-18, Santa Barbara californiawinefestival.com CARMEL BACH FESTIVAL July 18-Aug. 1, Carmel bachfestival.org FEAST OF LANTERNS July 24-25, Pacific Grove feast-of-lanterns.org OLD SPANISH DAYS FIESTA Aug. 5-9, Santa Barbara oldspanishdays-fiesta.org PEBBLE BEACH CONCOURS D’ELEGANCE Aug. 16, Pebble Beach pebblebeachconcours.net GOLETA LEMON FESTIVAL Sept. 19-20, Goleta lemonfestival.com MONTEREY JAZZ FESTIVAL Sept. 25-27, Monterey montereyjazzfestival.org BUTTERFLY PARADE & BAZAAR Oct. 3, Carmel pacificgrove.org FIRST NIGHT MONTEREY Dec. 31, Monterey firstnightmonterey.org

THE KELP FOREST TANK at the Monterey Bay Aquarium is a popular attraction, right; Big Sur, opposite.

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 89

THE LONE CYPRESS from 17-Mile Drive in Pebble Beach, left; kids at Monterey tide pools, bottom;

Drive in Pebble Beach winds through forest and along the Pacific coastline as it skirts exclusive golf courses and resorts. South of Carmel, Point Lobos State Natural Reserve has long been considered the “crown jewel” of the California State Park system. The eerie-looking monoliths of Pinnacles California was part of the United States. The

back Cayucos is an old-school beach retreat

hikers interested in the added benefits of

Dalí17 museum showcases the second-

with a surf break and fishing pier near the

the explosion of colorful spring wild-

largest collection of works by Salvador Dalí

main drag. Morro Bay’s landmark, an

flowers and soaring California condors in

in the United States. Once a resident of

ancient volcanic peak emerging from the

the park. In Big Sur, where rocky cliffs drop

Monterey, Dalí contributed greatly to the

ocean floor, stands at the entrance to a

into the Pacific Ocean and cypress trees

region’s talented artist community. Made

beautiful estuary. Between the ocean and

twist in the coastal wind, nature lovers can

famous by John Steinbeck’s eponymous

the Santa Ynez Mountains, Santa Barbara is

walk along the beach or hike deep into red-

novel, Cannery Row has morphed from a

often called the “American Riviera” because

wood forests, both places where waterfalls

fishing center to a bustling street with

of its Mediterranean climate and red-roofed

spring to life.

shops and ocean-view restaurants. Stein-

buildings. Head inland to artist enclave Ojai

Hike to the top of Bishop Peak, the tallest

beck’s

to unwind and take in the “pink moment”

of the Nine Sisters, a chain of volcanic

sunsets—the color of cotton candy.

peaks. Take advantage of some sweet surf

hometown,

Salinas,

is

a

working-class agricultural city, known as

spots and catch the perfect wave. Head out

the “Salad Bowl of the World.” Carmel, a freethinker’s retreat born as an artist village,

The Great Outdoors

from Santa Barbara on a whale-watching

is home to stylish shops, exquisite dining

While well-known urban areas dot this

tour to see some of the largest mammals in

and top-notch art.

region, there’s more than enough wide-

the Pacific Ocean. On the Carrizo Plain, con-

South of Big Sur, the coastline is dotted

open space for fans of the outdoors. Take a

sidered the largest single native grassland

with a necklace of small beach towns. Cam-

whale-watching boat tour in Monterey Bay,

in the state, it’s possible to see surface frac-

bria’s galleries and antique shops perch on

where you can spot migrating gray, hump-

tures of the San Andreas Fault, which puts

pine-forested hills above the ocean. Laid-

back and blue whales. Seventeen-Mile

man/nature cohabitation in perspective.

INSIDER’S

» TIP

The best views of some spectacular surf moves are from the cliffs overlooking Steamer Lane, near THE SANTA CRUZ SURFING MUSEUM. Grab a spot by the railing to watch top-notch surfers get some sweet rides, and then head on in to the museum to see the best in Santa Cruz surfing history. santacruzsurfingmuseum.org

90 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

LYNN Y/SHUTTERSTOCK; SEEMONTEREY.COM.

National Park beckon to rock climbers and

The Los Padres National Forest stretches across the scenic Coast and Transverse ranges, and offers a wealth of opportunities for fishing, hiking, camping and bicycling. Kayak among tide pools and kelp forests where sea otters live in Morro Bay, or just amble along miles of scenic beaches, stop when you want to, and dig your toes in the sand.

Heritage & Culture Many place names on the Central Coast remain from Native American tribes, as well as from Spanish and Mexican settlers. The California missions and other well-preserved buildings still exist from before 1850, when California became a state. The Central Coast’s inland region has a wealth of land for agriculture—from the salad bowl to wine to olives—but farmers here are just as comfortSURFING CARMEL BEACH, above.

able taking a quick trip to the wide, sandy beaches during breaks from the harvest.

DRIVE

» TOUR

Family Fun The Central Coast is a wonderland for families, with historic sites, accessible beaches and outdoor space, and water activities. See

the Central Coast by driving

underwater without diving at the Monterey

south of Big Sur on

Bay Aquarium, or be a kid again at the Santa

HIGHWAY 1 past the small

Cruz Beach Boardwalk. Inland, get a look at

beach towns of CAMBRIA,

California’s pre-statehood past and follow

MORRO BAY and PISMO

the California Missions Trail along Highway

BEACH. Be sure to stop

101—always a good lesson for grade-

regularly to sample local

schoolers and adults alike. South through Big

delicacies, whether caught

Sur, the variety of hiking paths can lead you

from oceanside piers or

to a pink-sand beach or a seaside waterfall.

made by hand in beachtown bakeries. The highway cuts inland for a short jog after San Luis Obispo, but pops back to the beach before approaching the Santa Ynez Mountains and posh SANTA BARBARA.

View underwater life on a semi-submersible tour in Morro Bay. Discover how the ocean has shaped the history of the Central Coast at the Santa Barbara Maritime Museum. Go camping in the Channel Islands or Los Padres National Forest. Even picking your own berries at a local farm is far more fun when you can smell the ocean air and not hear the sounds of traffic.

92 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

VISIT CARMEL

Get more than a glimpse of

VENTURA COUNTY COAST Activities throughout the year

BY JILL K. ROBINSON plenty of options to fit your mood and style

brating them in the string of four main

of travel.

cities located in the Ventura County Coast, between Santa Barbara and Los Angeles—

Spring

Ventura County Coast Visitor Information

Camarillo, Oxnard, Port Hueneme, and

New growth after the winter is an essential

Ventura. Whether they’re signature sea-

sign of spring. Head to Camarillo for its Sat-

venturacountycoast.com

sonal events, great ways to get outdoors, or

urday morning Farmers’ Market, featuring

first-rate family adventures, there are

California farm-fresh organic produce straight from the farmers who grew it.

Another ultimate celebration of spring is the California Strawberry Festival

in

Oxnard (May 16-17) with more than 50 food booths

brimming

with

treats

like

smoothies, strawberry beer, strawberry shortcake and chocolate-dipped strawberries. What goes with food? Beer! The fifth annual Beer March features 20 craft breweries and live entertainment in Old Town Camarillo (March 14). Some of the most dedicated visitors to the region are the highlight of the Celebration of the Whales at the Channel Islands Harbor (March 22), where California gray whales inspire

94 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

KAMILO BUSTAMANTE; CONNOR DETKO. OPPOSITE: VENTURA COUNTY COAST

WINE, DINE, » CRUISE, INDULGE!

SKIP THROUGH THE SEASONS by cele-

CALIFORNIA STATE UNIVERSITY Channel Islands, right: Channel Islands Harbor, Oxnard, below; Santa Cruz Island hiking, opposite top; Ventura harbor, opposite bottom.

family-friendly activities, chalk art and prize drawings that include whalewatching excursions. Make your home base the Ventura Beach Marriott, conveniently located within easy reach of the region’s attractions, and duck into Rumfish Y Vino, a gastro-bar in downtown Ventura.

Summer The long days of summer are ideal for a voyage from either the Ventura or Oxnard harbor to visit Channel Islands National Park, where the “Galapagos of North America” is revered for its endemic plants and plentiful wildlife. Launch water adventures (by kayak, board or boat) and land delights (like the carousel, arcade games,

Hueneme Banana Festival (September 26)

Winter

and numerous shops and restaurants) at

gives you a full-day delight in banana

Ring in the winter holiday season at the

Ventura Harbor Village for a day closer to

treats and ocean breezes, and you’ll also

Ventura Winter Wine Walk & Holiday Street

town. Look up in the sky for the old-time

learn a little about the port. Ventura

Fair (December 5), where revelers have the

barnstorming air show, Wings Over Camar-

County Farm Day (November 7) embraces

chance to sample wine and beer, stroll

illo (August 15-16), which also includes

farmers and ranchers across the region,

down Main Street surrounded by live enter-

classic cars on familiar terra-firma. Enjoy

and shows you where your food comes

tainment and beautiful holiday lighting,

the sounds of summer at the Oxnard Her-

from, among the more than 100 types of

and get the jump on your gift shopping. If a

itage Square Summer Concert Series, with

crops in the region. In Camarillo, explore

cruise is on your wish list, check it off by

performances every Friday night by bands

delicious local wine on the Old Town

taking an Island Packers whale-watching

from old school to classic rock to Latin jazz

Wine Walk (late September), or celebrate

cruise to spy California gray whales on their

to rhythm and blues and even more. Lay

Adolfo Camarillo’s birthday (last week of

annual migration. Some folks want to cele-

your head at the Crowne Plaza Ventura

October) at historic Camarillo Ranch with

brate the season by signing up for a run, and

Beach for front-row beach views, as it’s right

the famous Camarillo white horses and

they’ll be pleased to participate in the Holly

on the beach and just two blocks from his-

tours of Adolfo Camarillo’s 1892 Queen

Jolly Half Marathon in Camarillo or the

toric downtown Ventura. Head to nearby

Anne Victorian mansion. Stay in a sweet

Santa to the Sea Half Marathon in Oxnard

Social Tap for upscale pub cuisine.

suite on the beach at the Embassy Suites

(December). Relax after the holiday immer-

by Hilton Mandalay Beach Resort in

sion at the Residence Inn Oxnard River

Autumn

Oxnard, and zip over to Slate Bistro & Craft

Ridge, and visit the Waypoint Café in the

When have you set aside a day to celebrate

Bar in Camarillo for gastro chic American

Camarillo Airport to get inspiration for a

a favorite yellow crescent fruit? The Port

culinary bites.

return journey.

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 95

PISMO BEACH A celebration of Central California beach culture

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

BEACHCOMB, » EXPLORE, ENJOY THE COAST Pismo Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau

MIDWAY BETWEEN San Francisco and

variety of lodging that lets guests enjoy

Los Angeles on California’s Central Coast,

beauty and bounty of land and sea. From

Pismo Beach’s central location makes it a

oceanfront hotels with beautiful views to

good home base for exploring the breath-

affordable motels, family friendly vacation

taking landscape as well as nearby

rentals to upscale RV parks, there’s a room

attractions like Hearst Castle and the wine

that fits everyone’s style—including the style

regions of Edna Valley, Paso Robles, Santa

of your canine best friend, because Pismo

Ynez and Santa Barbara.

Beach has several dog-friendly options. The newest beachfront hotel, Vespera on Ocean,

experiencepismobeach.com View from the Coast

a Marriott Autograph Collection hotel,

The Pismo Beach Pier dates to 1924, and has

opened in October 2019 with an upscale

recently re-opened after an $8.7-million

beach house-inspired design celebrating the

renovation project. It’s an optimal vantage

best of Pismo’s beach culture.

THE PIER in Pismo Beach, above; picnic at Pismo Beach, below.

understand the interconnected nature of

Pismo’s Great Outdoors

the town and the Pacific Ocean. Its classic

Measuring more than 900 acres, the Pismo

appearance evokes the beauty and romance

Preserve has diverse opportunities for out-

of the California coastline, and the pier is a

door enthusiasts. Gain access through

natural gathering place for locals and visi-

docent-led hikes, runs, bike rides and

tors alike. Two modified airstream trailers

horseback rides to more than 10 miles of

will soon be added—a visitors’ center and a

ranch roads and trails that weave through

vendor serving local cuisine. After the

rolling grasslands, oak woodlands and

annual Clam Festival in October, the Pier

coastal ridgelines with spectacular views of

Plaza will also face renovation, bringing

the Pacific Ocean stretching from Port San

new options for visitors.

Luis all the way past the Oceano Dunes to Point Sal. This vast landscape is a perfect

96 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Varied Ocean Getaway Hotels

example of what makes Pismo Beach appeal

One of the benefits of its Central California

to those in search of California’s golden

location is that Pismo Beach has a wide

past and an ideal coastal getaway.

PISMO BEACH CVB

point from which to view Pismo Beach and

GILROY Garden glory and foodie destination

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

THIS CITY IN CALIFORNIA’S Santa

wine-growing regions and is home to more

EAT, PLAY, » WINE-TASTE, HIKE

Clara County is well known for its favorite,

than 35 family-owned wineries and tasting

year-round pungent plant: garlic. But just

rooms. The wayfinding signs along the Santa

like a garlic bulb with many cloves, Gilroy

Clara Valley Wine Trail help oenophiles and

has plenty of attractions—including a

first-time tasters discover award-winning

Gilroy Visitor Information

wealth of wineries and an amusement park

wines, beautiful vineyard views and a casual

full of gardens and agricultural mastery—

atmosphere that makes wine tasting fun. A

visitgilroy.com

enough to appeal to a variety of tastes.

new, annual Santa Clara Valley Wine Trail Pass has been introduced (for $75). You can

Gilroy Gardens

download the Wine Trail Map for your adven-

Time has flown for the Gilroy Gardens

ture (visitgilroy.com/wineries) and find the best

Family Theme Park, which will celebrate its

options for your personal tasting tour.

th

THERE’S NO BETTER PLACE than the vineyard for tasting wine with friends, above; everybody loves a parade, below.

Road to Garlic

founder Michael Bonfante, features majestic

Dedicated garlic heads come to Gilroy to

gardens and waterfalls, as well as more than

get a taste of the best from the Garlic Cap-

40 rides and attractions. Also scattered

ital of the World. Grab the Road to Garlic

throughout the park are the world-famous

map for a tasty treasure hunt to find all

Circus Trees, living sculptures originally

the best garlic shops, restaurants and

grafted and shaped by Axel Erlandson in the

experiences (including garlic ice cream)

1920s, including the iconic Basket Tree as

to enjoy the town’s signature spice. If

well as others like the Arch Tree and the Four-

you’re in for a serious immersion, come

Legged Giant. The big birthday celebration

for the Gilroy Garlic Festival, July 24-26.

will last all year, with special party zones and

The three-day celebration is where fes-

activities throughout the park.

tival-goers consume up to two tons of garlic each year—in the form of sizzling

98 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Wine Trail Pass

calamari and scampi, pepper steak sand-

Gilroy is part of one of California’s oldest

wiches and garlic fries.

VISIT GILROY

20 season in 2020. California’s only horticultural theme park, inspired by the vision of

DESERTS Recreational playground in the sun B Y C H R I S TO P H E R P. B A K E R

TOP CITIES Palm Springs, Palm Desert, La Quinta, Rancho Mirage, Barstow, Indian Wells, Needles, Salton Sea, Mojave, Indio INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Palm Springs International Airport (PSP), 10 minutes from downtown Palm Springs, 44 miles (71 km) from Anza-Borrego State Park

T

here aren’t many places where you can golf while wearing shorts in the morning, snowshoe in the afternoon, and laze by the pool with a cocktail in the evening. Which explains why more than five

million visitors a year descend on Palm Springs and the surrounding desert region.

TOURISM WEBSITES visitpalmsprings.com visitgreaterpalmsprings.com discoverpalmdesert.com playinlaquinta.com whereisranchomirage.com barstowroute66.com indio.org/visit_us Anza-Borrego SP: www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=638 Death Valley NP: nps.gov/deva Joshua Tree NP: nps.gov/jotr

Begin with lush palm oases, hot mineral springs and awesome landscapes. Add sublime winter weather plus a to-see-and-do wish list from biking and ballooning to casinos and spas. And top off with an eternally cool desert lifestyle that recalls the 1940-60s, when Hollywood stars turned the area into a world-famous winter retreat. Welcome to a region where the summer never dies, the Modernist architecture is retro-chic, and the reinvigorated youthful spirit feels as refreshing as a chilled martini.

An easy 90-minute drive from Los Angeles, “Palm Springs” is understood as the entire Coachella Valley, comprising eight “desert resort communities” clustered at the foot of the San Jacinto Mountains. They

POPULATION 750,000

merge into one another along Highway 111—one of California’s great urban on three sides, glistening with snow in the winter sunshine. There’s no shortage of activities and attractions. The dining is fabulous. The spas are among California’s best. And the region boasts several ritzy casinos.

DESERTS

Museums cater to WWII aviation buffs, art fans and nature lovers keen to experience desert ecology. El Paseo gives Beverly Hills’ Rodeo Drive a run for its money in its quality and range of boutiques. Palm Springs’ music,

100 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

JPHOTOGOLFER/SHUTTERSTOCK

drives. The physical setting is out of this world. Majestic mountains soar

PLAYING GOLF AT MISSION HILLS COUNTRY CLUB, Rancho Mirage, opposite.

MUST

SPECIAL

»

» EVENTS 2020 PALM SPRINGS MODERNISM WEEK Feb. 13-23, Greater Palm Springs modernismweek.com RIVERSIDE COUNTY FAIR AND NATIONAL DATE FESTIVAL Feb. 14-23, Indio datefest.org LA QUINTA ART CELEBRATION March 5-8, La Quinta laquintaartcelebration.org BNP PARIBAS OPEN March 9-22, Indian Wells bnpparibasopen.com FASHION WEEK March 20-27, Palm Desert fashionweekelpaseo.com COACHELLA MUSIC FESTIVAL April 10-12, 17-19, Indio coachella.com STAGECOACH COUNTRY MUSIC FESTIVAL April 24-26, Indio stagecoachfestival.com WHITE PARTY April 24-27, Palm Springs jeffreysanker.com JOSHUA TREE MUSIC FESTIVAL May 4-17, Oct. 8-11, Joshua Tree joshuatreemusicfestival.com 55TH ANNUAL BORREGO DAYS DESERT FESTIVAL Oct. 23-25, Borrego Springs borregodays.com GREATER PALM SPRINGS PRIDE Nov. 7-8, Palm Springs pspride.org FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS PARADE Dec. 5, Palm Springs psfestivaloflights.com IRONMAN 70.3 INDIAN WELLS-LA QUINTA Dec. 6, La Quinta ironman.com/im703-indian-wells PALM SPRINGS INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Jan. 7-18, 2021, Palm Springs psfilmfest.org THE AMERICAN EXPRESS GOLF TOURNAMENT Jan. 18-24, 2021, PGA West, La Quinta theamexgolf.com

SEE, DO

»

Palm Springs Aerial Tramway Whisking you to another world as it revolves through 360 degrees, the tram climbs more than two miles to the mountain station at 8,516 feet elevation. Go for the sensational ride, or to escape the summer heat and hike the pleasantly cool pine forest. In winter the mountain is usually swathed in snow—perfect for exploring on cross-country skis or snowshoes. The mountain station’s gourmet restaurant tempts you to linger for a candlelit dinner overlooking the sparkling lights of the valley far below.

›

pstramway.com

»

Palm Springs Modern The city claims one of the most important concentrations of mid-20th-century Modernist architecture in the world. For a fascinating insight into how Palm Springs became Modernism’s place in the sun, explore with the Palm Springs Art Museum Architecture & Design Center. The curated tour will explain the inspiration for such icons as the Steel Houses, the “House of Tomorrow” and the Romchamp-inspired Bank of America building. Plus, you get to see inside several celebrity homes.

›

moderntour.com

»

Palm Springs Art Museum Acclaimed as one of California’s top regional art venues, the museum houses a stunning collection spanning pre-Columbian and Native American art to works by classic western American masters, plein air art on a desert theme, and contemporary California artists. Much of the artwork was donated by local residents such as author Sidney Sheldon and actor Kirk Douglas. It occupies a striking Modernist building with a sunken sculpture garden.

›

psmuseum.org

» Joshua Tree National Park Spanning 1,240 square miles, film and arts festivals are world-renowned, as is the city’s hip trademark mid-century architecture.

Sports and Active Adventures You might be forgiven for thinking that a desert offers little to do and that it’s just too darn hot to do it in any event. Wrong on both counts! The

this park protects one of the most spectacularly scenic of desert regions and is named for the peculiarly-shaped Joshua trees, which grow here in abundance. Fantastical rock formations draw climbers, and a spiderweb of hiking and mountain bike trails lace the park. Be sure to call in at the Visitor Center and Keys West, a lookout with panoramic views over Coachella Valley, with the San Andreas Fault clearly visible below.

›

nps.gov/jotr

region is replete with exciting recreational activities.

»

come annually to play golf on more than one hundred courses. Almost as

Living Desert Despite the sizzling heat and lack of water, wildlife abounds in the desert. Most desert denizens hide by day, especially in summer. To see them, head to Living Desert Zoo & Park, which displays fauna from arid environments around the world. Local critters include desert tortoise, mountain lion and bighorn sheep, while exotic wildlife include oryx, giraffes and Mexican wolves. More than four miles of interpretive trails weave through the surrounding wilderness.

many arrive to explore the palm groves, alpine summits or spectacular

›

There’s no more quintessential image of the Palm Springs region than an emerald greensward studded by palms and framed by boulder-strewn mountains gloriously snowcapped in winter. In fact, the Coachella Valley has earned the distinction of “Golf Capital of the World,” with more golf courses than you can shake a 4-iron at. More than two million visitors

livingdesert.org

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 101

Springs Art Museum, one of California’s top regional art venues—its plein air, Mesoamerican and contemporary glass collections are outstanding.

Down valley, more than 150 unique works of art decorate the streets of Palm Desert, grouped for four self-guided tours.

Colorful murals grace historic downtown Indio, painting a big picture on the city’s past. And visitors can explore the vast Sunnylands Estate, in Rancho Mirage, where billionaire Walter Annenberg hosted President Richard Nixon after he resigned in 1974, and President Ronald Reagan on a desert landscapes of Anza-Borrego Desert

score of New Year’s Eves.

JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK, top; young buck mule deer in the high desert, above; family fun in Palm Springs, opposite left; vintage car show during Modernism Week in Palm Springs, opposite right.

where boulder formations prove an exciting

Festivals to Casinos

challenge for climbers.

Palm Springs has festivals to please every

Fabulous winter weather spells nirvana

taste. The season kicks off in January with

for hikers, rock-climbers, cyclists and other

the Palm Springs International Film Fes-

outdoorsy folk. Incising the slopes of the

tival, when Hollywood’s finest hit town. In

San Jacinto Mountains, the three Indian

March, the world-class Indian Wells Tennis

Canyons tempt hikers with 30 miles of trails

Garden fills to overflowing for the annual

and picnic sites. Fed by natural springs,

BNP Paribas Open. And in April, be there or

stands of desert fan palms crowd the canyon

be square for the Coachella Music Festival,

floors, providing sheltering oases for kit fox,

hosted in the warm open air of neighboring

bighorn sheep and coyote. Ancient petro-

Indio. Almost 200 star performers rock half

glyphs can be seen while hiking Andreas

a million attendees, and as usual, the 2020

Canyon and Tahquitz Canyon, with its spec-

festival is sure to be one hot ticket.

tacular 60-foot-tall waterfall.

INSIDER’S

» TIP

SOCIAL CYCLE—a 16-passenger, pedal-powered cycle steered by a

Higher culture? Palm Desert’s McCallum Theater resounds to laughter and cheers of

Cultural Connections

delight with a lineup that can range from

Culture vultures delight to find the desert is

Itzhak Perlman and The Vienna Boys Choir

far from dry. The Native American Agua

to The Nutcracker ballet and the Peking

Caliente occupied the Palm Springs region

Acrobats.

long before Europeans arrived. Their proud

Since the valley’s Cahuilla Indian terri-

legacy is on show at the Agua Caliente Cul-

tory is a sovereign nation, it’s exempt from

without fear of losing your license.

tural Museum in downtown Palm Springs,

California’s state ban on gambling. Try your

It plies a route through downtown

which in 2020 relocated to a spectacular

hand with Lady Luck at any of half a dozen

with stops at a selection of top

new venue. History buffs also delight in the

casinos. Most have venues that host class

bars and restaurants. You can hop

Palm Springs Air Museum, replete with

acts from world-title boxing to top per-

on a public tour or reserve it for

World War II-era warplanes from a P-51 Mus-

formers such as Kesha, Sheena Easton and

you and a group of friends. Two-

tang to a B-17 Flying Fortress. The monied

the desert’s own Barry Manilow. And shopa-

hour tours depart Friday-Sunday;

elite that pours into Palm Springs for the

holics are in for a treat: Art galleries, haute

departure times vary by day.

winter is a huge patron of the arts. Holly-

couturiers and boutique stores specializing

socialcycleca.com

wood star and long-time resident Kirk

in retro modernist décor offer a dash of

Douglas was a major donor to the Palm

retail therapy between your spa treatments.

professional guide—lets you tour Palm Springs while partying and

102 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

HOLBOX/SHUTTERSTOCK; SIERRALARA/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: VISITPALMSPRINGS.COM; MIGUEL NORIEGA/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR

State Park and Joshua Tree National Park,

Natural Wonders

Cinder Cones National Natural Landmark—a

with Fantasy Balloon Flights for a bird’s-eye

Brimming with the glories of nature, the

gateway to the standout draw of the northern

view of the Coachella Valley. Then delight the

desert is a paradise for anyone who appre-

Mojave: Death Valley National Park. The

kids, and yourself, with a ten-minute jaunt

ciates stupendous landscapes. The scenery

highest ground temperature ever recorded on

to Alaska (at least metaphorically) aboard the

is far more diverse than you might imagine,

earth was here, at Badwater, a sunken trough

Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. It ascends

ranging from below sea level to almost

that reaches 282 feet below sea level. Yet

through four life zones to the mountaintop

11,000 feet atop Mount San Jacinto.

Death Valley is rimmed by 11,000-foot moun-

station, where the air is 30 degrees cooler

Abundant rains in winter carpet the

tains. Winter months are deliciously

than it is in the desert below.

desert with wildflowers—nowhere more

temperate, when tourists flock to marvel at

spectacular than the springtime bloom of

chromatic canyons and sun-bleached salt

Antelope Valley Poppy State Reserve, near

pans. Well-paved roads lace the park, while

the town of Mojave. Snaking south through

dirt roads open up a world of extreme adven-

the Coachella Valley, scenic palm-lined

ture for visitors with suitable vehicles.

Highway 111 will deliver you to Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. Capital of desert botanica,

Family Fun

this 500,000-acre park is ablaze with fiery

Kids love the desert, which offers heaps of

red poppies and other wildflowers.

family fun, including old ghost towns such

DRIVE

» TOUR Start in downtown PALM SPRINGS and follow Highway 111 southeast to

PALM DESERT, then head into the San Jacinto Mountains along steep,

A 30-minute drive northeast from Palm

as Pioneertown, an old movie set where

Springs, Joshua Tree National Park spans

shoot-out recreations bring old Westerns

1,240 square miles of Mojave and lower Col-

back to life. Another favorite is the Living

for a sensational view. Retrace your

orado deserts and protects one of the most

Desert Zoo & Gardens, exhibiting nearly

route to Highway 111 and continue

spectacular desert regions in North

400 species of animals, from aardvark to

east. Turn south onto Highway 86

America. Popular with rock climbers, its

zebra. With luck you might even spot

past date palms and vineyards and

dramatic landscapes are made surreal by

bighorn sheep in the wild on a Desert

the Salton Sea to SALTON CITY, then

the “Joshua tree” species of yucca, with

Adventures eco-tour by Jeep. Even camels

head west along Highway 522

strange, arm-like branches.

add to the fun at Indio’s Riverside County

through the BORREGO BADLANDS

Fair & National Date Festival in February.

to the artists’ community of BOR-

From Joshua Tree, historic Route 66 unfurls past Mojave National Preserve, where

In summer, beat the heat splashing about

the Kelso Dunes tower almost 1,000 feet

at Wet’N’Wild water park. Or take to the air

twisting

Highway

74

to

the

COACHELLA VALLEY VISTA POINT

SPRINGS.

REGO

Explore

the

fantastical metal sculptures in GAL-

above the desert floor. They’re known as the

LETA MEADOWS, then lace up your

“singing dunes” because they emit a buzz or

hiking boots to explore cactus-

rumble when sand slides down the dune-

studded ANZA-BORREGO DESERT

face. Nearby, 32 ancient volcanic cones stud

STATE PARK.

PALM SPRINGS

PALM DESERT

COACHELLA VALLEY VISTA POINT

GALLETA MEADOWS

BORREGO BADLANDS SALTON CITY

ANZA-BORREGO DESERT STATE PARK VISITOR CENTER BORREGO SPRINGS

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 103

PALM SPRINGS The desert oasis revs up the hip factor B Y C H R I S TO P H E R P. B A K E R

Visitor Information visitpalmsprings.com IT’S TIME FOR AN ADULT BEVERAGE poolside, above; color coordination Palm Springs style, below; Indian Canyons inspires awe, opposite top; a friendly welcome to all, opposite bottom.

is spotlighted by the steel-and-glass

loving city with a relaxed retro-chic vibe

Kimpton The Rowan hotel, with its exclu-

keeps getting better thanks to an expanding

sive rooftop pool and terrace sky lounge. It’s

downtown that has given a new sparkle to

walkable, relaxed and fun. No car required.

this sun-kissed desert jewel. Blessed with

As you head north you’ll be welcomed by

amazing weather and juxtaposed against a

the Uptown Design District with its chic

backdrop of spectacular mountains, Palm

vintage shops, designer boutiques, alfresco

Springs has long been Hollywood’s

restaurants and boozy cocktail lounges all

celebrity playground. Frank Sinatra, Cary

offering amazing views of the mountains.

Grant, Bob Hope, even Elvis, all partied poolside at their Mid-Century Modern

Mod Style

hideaway homes.

Renowned as the Mod Mecca, Palm Springs

Today, the original and ultimate year-

beckons design-savvy visitors with the

new

world’s largest concentration of “mid-mod”

generation of Hollywood regulars, from

homes and public buildings. The global

Leonardo DiCaprio to Katy Perry, inspired

appeal peaks every February for Mod-

by a hip desert lifestyle that’s the coolest

ernism Week—the ultimate celebration of

party around. This sophisticated archi-

the distinctive desert aesthetic—when

tectural oasis with a stress-free airport

many homes of luminaries who have lived,

proclaims its open-minded desert ethos

loved and played in Palm Springs are open

in everything from cultural arts to fun-

to view. The downtown Palm Springs Art

filled pool parties.

Museum Architecture & Design Center, in

round

playground

draws

a

a stunning 1960s mid-century building,

104 2 020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

Uptown/Downtown

showcases

Palm Springs’ boldly revitalized downtown

exhibits. Plus, the vernacular style can be

sensational

design-related

VISITPALMSPRINGS.COM

DINE, SHOP, » GALLERY HOP!

Palm Springs is the place to be. The fun-

savored in stores selling the stunning art,

temporary and glass artists, and features

the city, while more challenging mountain

fashion and interior décor that infuses the

temporary exhibitions from internationally

trails include the option for snowshoeing

sun-worshiping local lifestyle.

acclaimed artists. Each month the museum

and cross-country skiing in winter.

features a free community day on the second

Tribal Heritage

Sunday of every month and is always free

Palm Springs is named for the city’s healing

every Thursday from 4 to 8 p.m. For the avia-

hot springs and serene palm-studded canyon

tion and historical buffs, the Palm Springs Air

oases. Its native Agua Caliente Band of

Museum offers an extraordinary collection

Cahuilla Indians’ ancestral mineral springs

that pays homage to the aircraft and aviators

are downtown. The tribe’s peaceful Indian

of two World Wars, plus the Korean and

Canyons, on the edge of town, are a haven for

Vietnam Wars. You can even exult in flying

hikers and wildlife. Its downtown Agua

demos, and in exhilarating Warbird rides that

Caliente Casino Palm Springs adds 24-hour

include in a P-51 Mustang fighter of

excitement with its live entertainment,

“Tuskegee Airmen” fame.

including outdoor concerts beneath the starry night sky. And the Agua Caliente Cultural

Tramway to Another World

Museum opening in 2020 promises to enrich

To truly appreciate Palm Springs’ beauty

the experience of visitors and residents alike.

and scale, thrill to a sensational cacti-to-

Get Out and Play

clouds ride aboard the Palm Springs Aerial

Palm Springs is also nirvana for outdoor

Museums

Tramway. The world’s largest rotating tram

activities, especially during the fall and

Considered one of California’s finest regional

car will deposit you at 8,516 feet near the

winter. Along with many hiking trails

museums, the Palm Springs Art Museum is

top of Mt. San Jacinto. Here, the Peaks

throughout the mountain range to capture

located in downtown Palm Springs. The

Restaurant has the ultimate table with a

the valley views, cycling is also a great way to

museum’s extensive permanent collection

view. The easy Desert View Trail also

see the city. There’s tennis at dusk. Plus, the

includes significant works by western, con-

rewards hikers with sensational views over

Palm Springs calendar is packed year round with festive events. And every Thursday evening, the downtown Palm Canyon Drive transforms into VillageFest, a traffic-free street fair that includes great entertainment.

Come As You Are Palm Springs prides itself on their welcoming hospitality. No matter one’s persuasion or preference, it’s the diversity of the community and visitors that gives Palm Springs its special character. With gay bars, the vibrant Arenas Business District and plenty of men’s clothing-optional resorts, everyone is welcome to be exactly who they are. No wonder they host the two largest gay parties in the U.S. every April: The White Party for men and The Dinah for women.

There’s always something happening in Palm Springs—the fabled Rat Pack retreat where warm desert days and starry desert nights recapture the buzz of the swinging ’60s with a new hipster cool.

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 105

SAN DIEGO COUNTY Beautiful beaches, sunshine and more

BY MARIBETH MELLIN TOP CITIES San Diego, Coronado, Chula Vista, La Jolla, Del Mar, Encinitas, Solana Beach, Carlsbad, Oceanside, Escondido, El Cajon, Julian, Borrego Springs INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY San Diego International Airport (SAN), also known as Lindbergh Field, is conveniently located on the edge of downtown

C

alifornia has no shortage of beach towns, but San Diego is its only “beach city,” where the state’s second-largest population enjoys 70 miles of scenic coastline and 70-degree temperatures. Outdoor fun and

family-oriented attractions are the main lures, but San Diego takes the “city” part seriously, too. Artistic and intellectual pursuits enjoy deep support here.

Writers, artists, musicians and scientists find inspiration while surfing at La Jolla Shores or jogging in Mission Bay Park. The Tony Award-winning Old Globe

lajollabythesea.com visitdelmarvillage.com visitoceanside.org visitescondido.com sandiegozoo.org

POPULATION 3 million

and La Jolla Playhouse send plays to Broadway frequently. Scientific landmarks including the Salk Institute and Scripps Institution of Oceanography are magnets for some of the world’s brightest minds.

Downtown’s diversions alone could easily fill a week. New, exciting restaurants, clubs and shops pop up in trendy neighborhoods, creating a constant buzz. The Embarcadero tracing San Diego Bay’s edge offers access to the USS Midway aircraft carrier; the Maritime Museum with its landmark Star of India and newer San Salvador, a replica of Spanish explorers’ ships; the expansive Waterfront Park; and the San Diego Convention Center.

Cruise ships berth at the foot of Broadway and passengers into San Diego International Airport fly over high-rise towers to land just northwest of downtown. Hotels of every description and hip-quotient are scattered throughout the city’s core, making it a desirable place to stay.

SAN DIEGO COUNTY

A Bridge to Coronado The swooping San Diego-Coronado Bridge connects downtown to Coronado, a genteel city with an active Navy base and one of the world’s loveliest beaches.

Its “island” actually is a peninsula tethered to the mainland by the Silver Strand,

106 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

RIGUCCI/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: LEMERGE/SHUTTERSTOCK

TOURISM WEBSITES sandiego.org coronadovisitorcenter.com visitcarlsbad.com visitjulian.com borregospringschamber.com sdzsafaripark.org

a narrow strip of road and sand running

lands Park and teeing off at Coronado

past Navy installations and pristine

Municipal Golf Course.

MUST

»

beaches to the south county. The red turrets atop the Victorian Hotel del Coronado

Balboa Park

peek above the city’s modest skyline.

San Diego’s century-old cultural heart

Coronado’s pleasures include shopping

occupies 1,200 acres of hills and canyons

and dining on Orange Avenue, visiting the

just east of downtown. It hosts 17

Coronado Museum of History & Art,

museums and cultural institutions and

ogling the San Diego skyline from Tide-

The Old Globe theater, winner of multiple

SEE, DO

»

Mission Bay Park With plenty of room for jogging, bicycling, boating, kite flying and countless other activities, this 4,600-acre aquatic and land park is centrally located along I-5 near the wildly popular communities of Mission Beach, Pacific Beach and Ocean Beach. Some areas have fire rings, playgrounds or picnic areas, while others are best for watercraft and swimming. Cruise along Mission Bay Drive for an overview and keep an eye out for crowds, as boat races, charity runs and other events are common. › sandiego.gov/park-and-recreation/parks/regional/ missionbay

»

SAN DIEGO FROM CORONADO ISLAND, opposite; Coronado Bridge, above.

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2020 SAN DIEGO INTERNATIONAL AUTO SHOW Jan. 1-5, Downtown San Diego sdautoshow.com GASLAMP QUARTER MARDI GRAS Feb. 28-29, Downtown San Diego sdmardigras.com THE MISSION VALLEY CRAFT BEER & FOOD FESTIVAL Feb. 29, Mission Valley mvcbf.com SAN DIEGO CREW CLASSIC April 4-5, Mission Bay crewclassic.org FIESTA OLD TOWN CINCO DE MAYO May 2-3, Old Town San Diego cincodemayooldtown.com GATOR BY THE BAY May 7-10, Spanish Landing Park gatorbythebay.com ROCK ’N’ ROLL MARATHON May 30-31, Central San Diego runrocknroll.competitor.com/san-diego SAN DIEGO COUNTY FAIR June 5-July 4, Del Mar Fairgrounds sdfair.com OB STREET FAIR & CHILI COOK-OFF June 27, Ocean Beach oceanbeachsandiego.com PORT OF SAN DIEGO BIG BAY BOOM July 4, San Diego Bay bigbayboom.com DEL MAR THOROUGHBRED CLUB HORSERACING July 18-Sept. 7, Oct. 30-Nov. 29, Del Mar dmtc.com COMIC-CON INTERNATIONAL July 23-26, Downtown San Diego comic-con.org KAABOO DEL MAR Sept. 18-20, Petco Park, San Diego kaaboodelmar.com

La Jolla This upscale Mediterranean-style community lives up to its name (“The Jewel” in Spanish), with a postcard-ready setting, white sands, turquoise waters, sea caves (including Sunny Jim Cave, California’s only known land-access sea cave) and an Underwater Park teeming with pinnipeds, rays, scuttling lobsters and countless fish. It’s not just another pretty face, though; it hosts the Tony Award-winning La Jolla Playhouse, Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego, Murals of La Jolla and the Birch Aquarium—while also offering the “Rodeo Drive of San Diego,” named for Prospect Street’s stellar shops, galleries and restaurants. › lajollabythesea.com

»

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park There aren’t many places where you can drive from the beach to the mountains and on to the desert in less than a day. San Diego County encompasses all three, including California’s largest state park. Traffic reaches rush-hour proportions during the spring cactus bloom, when the vast brown explodes with color. The park is fascinating any time of year, as is the town of Borrego Springs. › parks.ca.gov

»

Balboa Park The country’s largest urban cultural park is a rambling landscape of museums, theaters, artists’ studios and gardens. The tiled California Tower, with its unobstructed 360-degree view of the park and city, has become a treasured landmark, reopened after an 80-year closure for the park’s centennial in 2015. › balboapark.org

»

Cabrillo National Monument High above the tip of Point Loma, this sprawling park commemorates Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo and San Diego’s early history. It’s most popular for the panoramas of the boat-filled bay and sea, the mountains to the east and the hills of Tijuana to the south. It’s a great place to look for whales spouting offshore in winter. › nps.gov/cabr/index.htm

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 107

INSIDER’S

» TIP

San Diego is exceptionally pet

Tony Awards. Its most famous tenant, the

community into an urban enclave with

justly renowned San Diego Zoo, cele-

modernist condo complexes, trendy shops

brated its Centennial in 2016 and opened

and gourmet restaurants helmed by top

a huge Africa Rocks exhibit in 2017. The

chefs. As the hub of San Diego’s sophisti-

new Sanford Children’s Zoo is slated to

cated nightlife scene, the entire downtown

open in 2021.

now pulses with energy day and night.

The urban core continues uptown

friendly, even at the beach.

Though dogs are banned from

Beach Towns

through Bankers Hill and Hillcrest, the

most public beaches, they can

The coast between the Mexican border (18

lively heart of the LGBT community. Over

race from sand to sea at a few

miles south of downtown) and Oceanside is

the past decade, the former Naval Training

specific spots. Some say the

lined with beach towns. Each has a unique

Center, now called Liberty Station, has

section of the public beach

character, from Ocean Beach’s hippie vibe to

evolved into a mini-town with stores,

beside the MISSION BAY JETTY in

classy La Jolla’s Mediterranean ambience.

offices, galleries, schools and the Liberty

Ocean Beach was San Diego’s

Beloved by surfers and escapists with suffi-

Public Market occupying the base’s

original dog playground, and it’s

cient wherewithal, a series of small

Spanish Colonial-style former commissary

still one of the most popular in

communities line the coast north of La

building. Abundant open space makes

the county. Nearby FIESTA

Jolla’s Torrey Pines State Reserve.

Liberty Station the perfect spot for art shows,

ISLAND is beloved by dogs and

family gatherings and special events.

their human companions for its

City & Town

great expanse of sand edging

San Diego’s cosmopolitan downtown

The Great Outdoors

Mission Bay. You can count on

encompasses several hip neighborhoods.

Surfers, swimmers, boaters and anglers all

finding lots of large, active

The historic Gaslamp Quarter’s picturesque

play in and on the Pacific Ocean, from Impe-

canines here. The north end of

streets are packed with classy restaurants

rial Beach near the Mexican border north to

th

CORONADO’S BEACH, often

and clubs in restored 19 -century Victo-

Oceanside and the Marine base at Camp

included in Top 10 lists, is open

rian, Baroque and Frontier buildings. Petco

Pendleton. Snorkeling is especially good at La

to dogs 24/7. DEL MAR’S DOG

Park,

stadium,

Jolla Cove, while surfers prefer Ocean Beach,

BEACH, near the Del Mar Race

anchors the East Village filled with condo

Pacific Beach and dozens of small patches of

Track, is open from just after

complexes, cafés and a stunning Central

sand with gnarly waves just offshore.

Labor Day until mid June.

Library. Little Italy managed to hold on to

East and north of the city center, the

some venerable pizza parlors, bakeries and

landscape gives way to rolling foothills and

bars while evolving from a simple Italian

canyons. Lakes and reservoirs offer fresh-

108 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

downtown’s

baseball

DOUG JAMES/SHUTTERSTOCK; DOBINO/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: SDANCESTROKES/SHUTTERSTOCK; GABRIELE MALTINTI/SHUTTERSTOCK

HEAD OF THE SERPENT, one of artist Ricardo Breceda’s 130-plus metal sculptures in Borrego Springs, above; La Jolla Shores is a popular place for beach activities of all kinds, including launching kayaks and canoes, right; strolling along the Point Loma hillside at the Cabrillo National Monument, opposite top; pond in Balboa park in San Diego, opposite below.

water fishing and tranquility. The vast Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, home of “California’s Grand Canyon” at Fonts Point, provides hiking trails through palm canyons, fields of cacti and dazzling wildflower displays.

Heritage & Culture Explorer Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo spotted San Diego Bay in 1542 but quickly sailed on north, leaving the Kumeyaay Indians to their

Legoland California and SeaWorld San

warm, bountiful home. San Diego County’s

Diego.

18 tribes represent the largest concentration

Museum is an eco-friendly playground for

in the country, and more than half benefit

all ages, with multicultural, bilingual

from casinos in east and north counties.

exhibits that make learning fun, and its

Downtown’s

New

Children’s

Cabrillo’s brief stay is commemorated at

adjacent one-acre park allows kids to burn

Cabrillo National Monument at the tip of

energy. Teens flock to fighter planes and

Point Loma overlooking the bay. European

flight simulators at the USS Midway

settlers who returned in 1769 built a fort

Museum. Top choices for inexpensive entertainment: bicycling at Mission Bay

and mission church at Presidio Hill, a gorgeous swath of lawns above Old Town State

Family Fun

and Coronado, fishing off piers in Imperial

Historic Park, which contains many of San

Adults and children alike relish the San

Beach and Ocean Beach and stargazing from

Diego’s oldest buildings.

Diego Zoo and its separate Safari Park,

Mount Palomar.

DRIVE

» TOUR

OCEANSIDE

CARLSBAD

Historic Highway 101, also called the PACIFIC COAST HIGHWAY, runs through San Diego’s idyllic NORTH COUNTY coastal communities, passing by gorgeous long beaches and wild lagoons. You can do the trip in a couple of hours, but why hurry? Begin at the north end of La Jolla at TORREY PINES LEUCADIA

STATE PARK and descend a steep hill to Torrey Pines beach, then uphill again to DEL MAR. Stop signs at each block force you to slow down and appreciate the Tudor-style buildings and quaint shops and cafés in town before you

MOONLIGHT BEACH ENCINITAS

CARDIFF-BY-THE-SEA

descend again and cruise through SOLANA BEACH, CARDIFF-BY-THE-SEA,

ENCINITAS, LEUCADIA, CARLSBAD and OCEANSIDE. Each town’s main street presents an array of dining and browsing options, from funky Mexican take-

SOLANA BEACH

DEL MAR

out stands to fancy restaurants on the sand. Of the many beaches along the way, MOONLIGHT BEACH in Encinitas presents the most playtime possibili-

TORREY PINES STATE PARK

ties including a playground, snack bar, picnic tables and a year-round lifeguard station. Take your time and stop often. The distance between Torrey Pines and Oceanside is only 25 miles, but you can easily spend a full day exploring. When you’re ready to return to central San Diego, just hop on I-5 South at one of the many entrances along 101.

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 109

INLAND EMPIRE An often-overlooked region of mountains, deserts, vineyards and casino action

INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Ontario International Airport (ONT), 35 miles (56 km) east of downtown Los Angeles, 23 miles (37 km) west of San Bernardino, 16 miles (26 km) west of Riverside TOURISM WEBSITES bigbear.com lakearrowheadchamber.com visittemeculavalley.com riversidecvb.com GOcvb.org discoverclaremont.com

BY LENORE GREINER

T

he vast 5,000 square miles of the Inland Empire deftly capture California’s Spanish and Native American origins, the stagecoach era and the Golden Age of traveling Route 66. The perennially sunny,

scenic landscape and historic sites here reflect Golden State extremes: snowcapped granite peaks of the San Bernardino Mountains to the north and the San Jacinto range to the east fast descend into arid high deserts and, finally, to verdant vineyards and groves.

In the birthplace of California’s citrus industry, discover tranquil, scenic beauty among vineyards, hiking paths or ski runs. Or partake in distinctly Californian pursuits: wine tasting, escaping to a quiet golf resort, or soaking in steamy hot springs. The crowds are fewer and the prices are lower than Lake Tahoe and Napa Valley, yet you’ll find the same thrills and diversions

POPULATION 2.4 million

in the Inland Empire.

The Great Outdoors For year-round recreation, travelers can head into the San Bernardino Mountains, to two popular alpine lakes. At Big Bear Lake, outdoor enthusiasts find winter alpine sports at Big Bear Mountain and Snow Summit for excellent INLAND EMPIRE

skiing and snowboarding. Come summertime, the lake offers watersports lovers abundant fishing, boating, kayaking and even parasailing. Lake Arrowhead offers hiking, lake tours on the Lake Arrowhead Queen, biking and

110 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

VISIT TEMECULA VALLEY. OPPOSITE: EDDIE J. RODRIQUEZ/SHUTTERSTOCK

TOP CITIES Big Bear Lake, Lake Arrowhead, Temecula, Ontario, San Bernardino, Riverside, Redlands, Claremont

ice-skating. Or wander in the natural beauty

City & Town

and charming shops of the Swiss Chalet-

Foodies and oenophiles should explore Old

style alpine village of Lake Arrowhead. Or

Town Temecula’s historic district of 1880s

simply stargaze, watch the autumn leaves

buildings for wine tasting and sampling

turn or the winter snowflakes fall.

local fare in a friendly, Old West ambience.

BALLOONING OVER THE VINEYARDS in Temecula Valley, opposite; renowned sculptor Ricardo Breceda’s metal horse rears on a hilltop near Temecula, below.

MUST

»

SEE, DO

»

Saddle Up Wine Tours This equine and wine tour winds through Temecula’s vineyards and winery estates until you say “Whoa” at up to three wineries for tastings. › saddleupwinetours.com

»

Sand to Snow National Monument

In 2016, President Obama designated our newest national monument, 154,000 acres of San Bernardino National Forest and BLM land jutting skyward from the Sonoran desert floor to the 11,502-foot peak of Mount San Gorgonio. This biologically diverse monument encompasses wildlife corridors, sacred Serrano and Cahuilla tribal sites and 30 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail. › fs.fed.us/visit/sand-to-snow-national-monument

»

University of California Riverside’s ARTSblock A cultural anchor in downtown

Riverside, three miles from UCR’s main campus, ARTSblock occupies adjacent historic buildings and former department stores. The California Museum of Photography exhibits contemporary photography and has a comprehensive collection of early cameras. The Sweeney Art Gallery acts as a laboratory of experimental art. The Culver Center of the Arts hosts films, lectures and theatrical programs. › artsblock.ucr.edu

»

Ballooning over Temecula Drift serenely in a hot-air balloon over the vineyards, citrus groves and horse ranches of Temecula’s wine country, tinged by the rising sun’s golden light.

Sunrise Balloons first pioneered these flights in 1975; their capable, licensed pilots ensure a safe float that begins with a mimosa and ends with cold champagne. › sunriseballoons.com

»

Mission Inn Hotel & Spa This 1902 National Historic Landmark has hosted presidents and movie stars in this ramble of Mission Revival, Moorish and Oriental architecture, and Louis Comfort Tiffany mosaics. It’s authentic, never touristy and worth a visit. Sip a drink in the Spanish Patio under colonnades draped with red bougainvillea. › missioninn.com

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 111

» EVENTS 2020 RIVERSIDE DICKENS FESTIVAL Costumed Dickens characters descend upon downtown Riverside. Festivities include a Steampunk fashion show, a Victorian tea room with music hall performances, parasol dueling and Mr. and Mrs. Fezziwig’s Ball in full Victorian regalia.

February 22-23 dickensfest.com

Or visit Redlands, the “City of Beautiful Homes,” and its opulent Victorians and Arts and Crafts style homes of yesteryear.

North of Temecula, play in the mud or soak in the soothing mineral waters of the 160-year-old Glen Ivy Hot Springs, dating from early stagecoach days. Get in on the

RAMONA OUTDOOR PLAY Playing since 1926, this tragic romance about the Ponca Indians is America’s longest running drama and California’s Official Outdoor Play. April 18-19, 25-26, May 2-3 ramonabowl.com

action at the gaming tables at the Pechanga

TEMECULA ROD RUN Roaring hot rods descend upon Old Town Temecula. May 1-2 temeculaca.gov/rodrun

country, dotted with B&Bs and luxury

TEMECULA VALLEY BALLOON & WINE FESTIVAL This festival features hot-air balloon rides, wine and craft beer tastings, gourmet food, live music and more on Lake Skinner.

May 29-31 tvbwf.com

wards, relax with a glass of local wine on a

LAKE ARROWHEAD ANNUAL ANTIQUE & CLASSIC WOODEN BOAT SHOW Rare antique and classic wooden boats gather in Lake Arrowhead Village. June; check website for specific dates. lakearrowheadchamber.com ROUTE 66 CRUISIN’ REUNION Classic 20th-century cars roam Ontario’s historic downtown in a tribute to the legendary Mother Road, which runs through Rancho Cucamonga just to the north. Sept. 18-19 route66cruisinreunion.com

Casino. Or soar in a hot air balloon over Temecula

Valley’s

35,000-acre

wine

resorts amid vines and citrus groves. Afterwinery portico or play golf in this quiet oasis of the California good life.

Heritage & Culture Riverside harbors a wealth of California history. On Magnolia Avenue, the state’s first and oldest navel orange tree, planted in 1873, stands on the spot where California’s

BIG BEAR LAKE & LAKE ARROWHEAD VILLAGE OKTOBERFESTS These events feature bands, beer and brats at a 7,000-foot elevation. Weekends, Sept. 5-Nov. 1 at Big Bear Lake, Sept. 19-Nov. 1 at Lake Arrowhead Village. bigbearevents.com/Oktoberfest, lakearrowheadoktoberfest.com

multi-million-dollar citrus industry began.

Since 1880, the iconic Mission Inn has hosted U.S. presidents and delighted travelers with a Hearst Castle-like eclectic mix

112 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

LOWE LLAGUNO/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: TEMECULA CVB

SPECIAL

DRIVE

» TOUR

of Spanish and Moorish architecture, adorned with priceless Italian and Spanish treasures, as a church bell tolls on the hour.

The San Bernardino County Museum

RIM OF THE WORLD SCENIC

explores local history by exhibiting a cov-

BYWAY: This 107-mile scenic

ered wagon that crossed the Mojave Desert

drive begins on State Highway

from Salt Lake City and a Wells Fargo

138 just west of I-15 at the

stagecoach. The Hall of Anthropology

MORMON ROCK FIRE

showcases local native cultures, the

STATION. Travel east on 138 to

Mojave, Serrano and Gabrielino. Within

the CAJON PASS OVERLOOK

the

for breathtaking views, then

museum, the Zimmerman Citrus Kiosk

east to SILVERWOOD LAKE

explores the area’s citrus heritage.

citrus

groves

surrounding

the

and the Mojave River basin. 138 merges with 18 along the rim of the San Bernardino forest and provides sweeping vistas of San Bernardino, Redlands and the Los Angeles Basin. At BIG BEAR LAKE DAM, follow the road around Big Bear Lake to MILL CREEK RANGER STATION. This tour can be done in four hours.

Family Fun The fun begins with rides on the locomotives and trolleys of the Orange Empire Railway Museum in Perris. At Tom’s Farms in Corona, kids can mine for emeralds and rubies, ride a pony, or board the 1800s

TREASURE ISLAND AND BOULDER BAY at Big Bear Lake, opposite; Old Town Temecula, below.

steam train. In the summertime heat, take cool water rides on the Alpine Slide’s twisting curves at the Magic Mountain Recreation Area at Big Bear Lake.

INSIDER’S

» TIP

Settled in the 1840s, Louis Robidoux’s Jurupa Rancho property eventually became a city park, the MT. RUBIDOUX TRAIL AND MEMORIAL PARK. West of downtown Riverside, this local favorite has a 2.7-mile paved trail ascending the 1,399foot-high mountain amid historical plaques. The climb, lined with spring wildflowers or views of the snow-dusted San Bernardino Mountains in winter, rewards hikers with expansive Riverside valley views. mt-rubidoux.org

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 113

ONTARIO SoCal hub combines urban perks with nature and history

SHOP, DINE, » SEE A PERFORMANCE Greater Ontario Visitor Information

GOcvb.org

TOYOTA ARENA, above; Victoria Gardens, below.

114 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

ONTARIO’S AFFORDABLE, stress-free

first dedicated park. It is landscaped with

diversions and easy access to mountain and

native plants and includes a children’s play

desert escapes are within easy reach of

garden, a palm court and an amphitheater.

Southern California’s beaches and enter-

Greater Ontario includes neighboring

tainment. With its own international

Rancho Cucamonga, where renowned

airport, Ontario is an ideal hub for

postwar furniture designer Sam Maloof’s

exploring the region, but the history and

home offers guided tours showcasing his

unique attractions of this city of 181,000 are

craftsmanship. The restored Cucamonga

worth exploring in their own right. For

Service Station is one of the last original

example, the 150-acre Cucamonga Guasti

structures on legendary Route 66, which

Regional Park offers a quick nature fix right

runs through town.

in the city, where you can snag trout and

Greater Ontario boasts dozens of movie

catfish from two lakes, have a picnic, frolic

theaters and live theater at the Lewis Family

in two water parks, or just relax among the

Playhouse. Toyota Arena supplements its

big trees.

busy sports lineup with concerts ranging

The Sunkist water tower recalls Ontario’s

from Bad Bunny to Miranda Lambert and

origin in 1882, when the Chaffey brothers of

shows such as Disney on Ice and the Harlem

Canada founded a model township named

Globetrotters.

for their home province. That era lives on

Shoppers can browse locally owned

in Ontario’s Museum of History and Art and

shops around Ontario Town Square or go all

the family-owned Graber Olive House,

in at the mega outlet center Ontario Mills.

which still uses its recipe from 1894. In

At Rancho Cucamonga’s Victoria Gardens,

Logan’s Candies quaint shop, candy canes

home to the only Bass Pro Shop in Southern

are made just as they were in 1933.

California, anchor stores are surrounded by

The 1923 Bank of Italy Building, soon to

small shops arranged as city blocks served

house three new restaurants, stands in

by a cultural center with a theater and a

Ontario Town Square, whose pedestrian

library. Also in Rancho Cucamonga, Haven

promenade features a 34-foot tiled history

City Market, a brand-new food hall, has

wall. Surrounded by shops, restaurants and

more than 20 restaurants, including hard-

entertainment venues, the pretty square

to-find items like vegan sushi and Cajun

opened in 2014 as the historic downtown’s

shrimp with cheesy grits.

TOYOTA ARENA; JON EDWARDS

BY CHRISTINE DELSOL

CLAREMONT Urban activity and small-town vibe earn college town an A

BY CHRISTINE DELSOL

EXPLORE, » RELAX, DISCOVER Claremont Visitor Information

discoverclaremont.com

CLAREMONT VILLAGE, above; sampling the vintage at Packing House Wines, below.

that make up the Claremont colleges, Claremont isn’t exactly a well-kept secret, but Claremont itself, a city of 39,000 in the San Gabriel Mountains foothills 30 miles east of downtown Los Angeles, is a genuine hidden gem. It’s an easy day trip from LA, but Claremont’s diverse attractions and ideal balance of urban savvy and village atmosphere make lingering worthwhile.

The expansive views on Claremont Wilderness Park’s five-mile hiking loop make it one of the region’s most popular trails. But the once-sleepy city has built up an urban energy that offers diversions for any visitor.

More East Coast than SoCal Claremont Village, downtown’s leafy, bikefriendly historic heart, is more idyllic East Coast college town than typical Southern California. More than 150 locally owned storefronts house such shops as the venerable Rhino Records, Heirloom, the Cheese Cave and an array of day spas. The robust dining scene ranges from breakfast at Walter’s to the classic Italian chophouse Tutti Mangia. For a night on the town, there’s dinner theater, art-house movies, a variety of pubs and even a contemporary speakeasy.

The revamped Packing House, built in 1909 by the citrus industry, houses its own restaurants, live music, art and cooking classes and the Circus Studio, where aerial

116 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

circus parties can be arranged and drop-ins are welcome.

Notable among the colleges’ cultural contributions are “Dividing the Light,” a sunset and sunrise display of changing colors at Pomona College’s Museum of Art (due to move to a new building and become The Benton this fall); the medieval-style Margaret Fowler Garden at Scripps College; and Claremont McKenna College’s architectural standout Kravis Center.

Elsewhere in town, visitors can play instruments from around the world at the Folk Music Center and Museum, and view one of the nation’s largest collections of fossil tracks at the Museum of Paleontology. Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden displays the world’s largest collection of native California plants.

Get Your Kicks on Route 66 Tourists, who are beginning to rediscover Claremont today, once streamed through town on the legendary Route 66. Original buildings include Wolfe’s Market, the Old School House (now Candlelight Pavilion Dinner Theater) and Tugboat Annie’s boat-shaped restaurant (now Sushi Maru).

If you don’t treat yourself to Casa 425, Claremont Village’s stylish boutique hotel, stay at the DoubleTree by Hilton for a nostalgia trip on the “mother road”—it was Griswold’s Inn back when Foothill Boulevard was Route 66.

DISCOVER CLAREMONT

AS HOME TO the seven private schools

LOS ANGELES COUNTY A place for dreamers

BY JACQUELINE YAU

TOP CITIES Los Angeles, West Hollywood, Burbank, Santa Monica, Malibu, Beverly Hills, Pasadena, Venice, Redondo Beach, Marina del Rey, Lancaster INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), 19 miles (31 km) from downtown LA DOMESTIC GATEWAYS Long Beach Airport (LGB), 24 miles (38 km) from downtown LA; Hollywood Burbank Airport (BUR), 16 miles (26 km) from downtown LA

“T

here is something to be said for having even unrealistic dreams,” says celebrated Whiplash and La La Land writer/director Damien Chazelle. “Even if the dreams

don’t come true—that to me is what’s beautiful about Los Angeles. It’s full of these people who have moved there to chase these dreams. A lot of those people are told by people around them that they’re crazy, or that they’re living in la la land.”

The City of Angels is the land of reinvention. Los Angeles County attracts seekers, dreamers, hustlers and wannabe actors/screenwriters/directors. Most come from somewhere else and are looking for a better life. Persistent optimism and self-expressiveness permeate the air.

Thanks to the Beach Boys harmonizing about California girls, beach party movies of the ’60s and TV shows like Baywatch, many people think of Los Angeles as palm trees swaying in warm breezes, endless beaches and bikini-clad women. But LA is far more complex. It’s a mix

POPULATION 10.17 million

of old and new, from cuisine to culture to ideas. The creativity and LOS ANGELES COUNTY

diversity of the region are reflected in the more than 100 museums focused on the odd to the divine, the vibrant global street art and the constant evolution of the food scene.

118 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

SEAN PAVONE/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: DISCOVER LA

TOURISM WEBSITES discoverlosangeles.com visitwesthollywood.com lovebeverlyhills.com downtownla.com visitpasadena.com visitredondo.com visitmarinadelrey.com santamonica.com destinationlancasterca.org

SPECIAL

MUST

» EVENTS 2020

»

THE HOLLYWOOD REEL INDEPENDENT FILM FESTIVAL Screens new feature films, documentaries, shorts and videos by emerging filmmakers. Feb. 12-24 at multiple venues and locations in Los Angeles. hollywoodreelindependentfilmfestival.com LOS ANGELES COMEDY FESTIVAL The nation’s largest comedy festival features film, live comedy acts and a screenplay competition. Held twice a year at Let Live Theatre in Los Angeles. April 2-12. lafilmfestivals.com/la-comedy-fest FESTIVAL OF BOOKS Meet hundreds of literary lights and browse the booths at one of the largest book festivals in the country. The Los Angeles Times Festival of Books celebrates its 25th year. April 18-19 at USC. events.latimes.com/festivalofbooks LA FOOD FEST Follow your nose to this annual festival celebrating more than 100 of LA’s food vendors, from top chefs and renowned restaurants to gourmet food trucks and street food stalls. Sample libations too, including craft cocktails and tequila. See website for date, location and other details. Typically held early summer. lafoodfest.com LOTUS FESTIVAL This 40th annual celebration at Echo Park Lake celebrates the Asian American community in Los Angeles. Enjoy live music, food, dance and dragon boat races set against a backdrop of blooming lotus flowerbeds. Typically in July at Echo Park Lake in Los Angeles. See website for details. facebook.com/lotusfestivalla 626 NIGHT MARKET Inspired by the bustling Asian night markets, this evening bazaar will spice up your senses with more than 200 food vendors (tempting your taste buds with skewers of beef, spiraled fried potatoes, stinky tofu and mango shave ice), performers and retail booths. Entering its ninth year, this Asian-food festival is usually held on four weekends in the summer at Santa Anita Park in Arcadia. 626nightmarket.com THE ABBOT KINNEY FESTIVAL Founded in 1984, this eco-conscious artisan and food festival attracts many to this bohemian-chic area in Venice. Located on a one-mile stretch on Abbot Kinney Blvd. from Venice Blvd. to Main Street. Sept. 27 in Venice. abbotkinney.org WEST HOLLYWOOD CARNAVAL Every Oct. 31 along Santa Monica Boulevard in West Hollywood, more than 500,000 people attend the world’s largest Halloween street party.

Dress up in your favorite costume and prepare to dance the night away. visitwesthollywood.com/halloween-carnaval

GETTY VILLA, below; Griffith Observatory, Los Angeles, opposite.

SEE, DO

»

Hollywood Walk Of Fame Launched on Hollywood Boulevard at Vine Street in 1958, this constellation of coral-pink terrazzo and brass sidewalk stars honors film legends past and present. Among the first honorees were Burt Lancaster and Joanne Woodward—in 1994, Sophia Loren became the 2,000th star. Today there are more than 2,600 stars, with typically two added monthly to the 15-block stretch of the boulevard. Millions of visitors come every year to find their favorite actors, directors, musicians and other entertainment luminaries. › walkoffame.com

»

Santa Monica Pier Savor a Will Rogers Hot Fudge Brownie Sundae, ride a vintage carousel, view the area from the Ferris wheel (a movie celebrity in its own right) and explore the theme park on this century-old pier. Snap a selfie by the End of the Trail sign on the pier for the legendary Route 66, which ends its 2,450-mile journey here. › santamonicapier.org

»

Olvera Street Known as the birthplace of Los Angeles, this section of LA was the town center during the colonial era under Spanish and Mexican rule through most of the 19th century. Some vendors are the descendants of the original merchants in this marketplace, established in 1930 to preserve and bring back “old Los Angeles” and its customs. Absorb the scent of tacos and sounds of mariachi music amid the street stalls and old structures. Browse lucha libre (Mexican wrestling) masks, Day of the Dead figurines, piñatas and other souvenirs in this block-long Mexican marketplace located in Los Angeles Plaza Historic District. › olvera-street.com

»

Venice Beach Boardwalk This 1.5-mile pathway parallels the Pacific Ocean and is a neverending carnival of LA’s most outrageous characters.

Stroll past vendors and street performers trying to impress you with their breakdancing or juggling.

Others may dress up as if every day is Halloween.

When you’re ready for a break, visit a restaurant or juice bar, or simply walk down to the beach and soak up some sun. And if you need souvenir Tshirts or trinkets, or an affordable painting or photograph, you’re bound to find it here. › venicebeach.com/the-venice-beach-boardwalk

»

See Improv, Sketch or Stand-up Comedy

So many great comedians came out of the clubs of Los Angeles, and you can still catch rising stars honing their craft or legendary veterans trying out new material.

Notable clubs and improv troupes include The Groundlings, Hollywood Improv Comedy Club, Laugh Factory, Upright Citizens Brigade and Comedy Store. › thecomedybureau.com › discoverlosangeles.com/blog/comedy-clubs-los-angeles

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 119

FLYING AT THE VENICE BEACH skate park, left.

start the day by stretching at Bryan Kest’s Power Yoga studio in Santa Monica. Go shopping at cool indie shops featuring local labels and fashionable imports along Venice’s Abbot Kinney Boulevard. Need an outfit for an awards show? Head over to Decades on Melrose Avenue, a vintage

The Nation’s Largest County

onymous with the movie business, but today

couture store where many stylists choose

As the most populous county in the nation,

most studios have moved into neighboring

red-carpet gowns for their star clients.

with more than 10 million residents, Los

suburbs such as Burbank and Culver City.

Hungry? Eat at The Griddle Cafe, a

Angeles County comprises 88 cities with

Some of the better-known areas in LA

Sunset Boulevard institution known for its

more than 100 languages spoken within its

County aren’t even cities but rather districts

gigantic pancakes and the steady flow of

4,084 square miles. Geographically, the

or neighborhoods within Los Angeles, such

celebrities lunching there. Or chow down

county is larger than the states of Rhode

as Hollywood, Silver Lake and Venice. In

on a chili dog at Pink’s famous corner stand

Island and Delaware—combined.

contrast, Beverly Hills, home to the most

at Melrose and La Brea avenues. Watch a

The entertainment industry is an integral

expensive residences in the world, and

Lakers or Clippers pro basketball game at

part of the local economy, annually con-

West Hollywood, a welcoming oasis to a

the Staples Center to see stars, both on the

tributing $47 billion to the region. For

diverse community of gays, Russians and

court and in the stands. End the day sip-

decades, the name Hollywood has been syn-

musicians, are cities but completely sur-

ping a cocktail at Chateau Marmont in

rounded by the city of Los Angeles.

West Hollywood, where celebrities meet

» TIP

their agents and studio execs.

Angeles County’s southwest border.

Malibu, an exclusive seaside community,

Hollywood

has some of the most alluring stretches of

Conceived originally as an outdoor bill-

LA’S MURALS provide a keen sense

sand in the area. To the north, hikers and

board promoting a housing development

of its UNDERGROUND ART SCENE as

mountain climbers explore trails in the

called Hollywoodland in 1923, the Holly-

creativity bursts off to cover once-

Santa Monica Mountains. To the east, the

wood sign sits on the south side of Mount

blank walls through the city. LA

San Gabriel Mountains rise up to more

Lee in Griffith Park—long a symbol that

Weekly calls Los Angeles a “city of

than 10,000 feet above sea level.

this is a place where dreams can come true.

1,000 murals,” saying its “urban

The first movie studio, the Nestor

sprawl creates the perfect canvas.”

City & Town

Motion Picture Company, opened in 1911

The Weekly highlights 20 of the

Los Angeles, the second most populous

in Hollywood on the northwest corner of

city’s most groundbreaking murals,

city in the nation at 4 million people,

Sunset Boulevard and Gower Street. It was

which range from celebrations of

dominates the county. Writer Dorothy

absorbed by the Universal Film Manufac-

Latino culture to interpretations of

Parker once quipped, “Los Angeles is 72

turing Company, which later became

suburbs in search of a city.” Now, LA’s

Universal Studios. By the 1920s, 80 per-

more than 100 neighborhoods form a rich

cent of the world’s films were shot in

cultural stew. Meander around China-

California.

film heroes: https://www.laweekly.com/ 20-of-l-a-s-most-iconic-murals For a comprehensive view of the cities murals: muralconservancy.org/murals.

Perhaps the best way to see some of the city’s most daring murals is with LA ART TOURS: laarttours.com/graffititour.

town, Little Tokyo, the Art and Fashion

Learn more about Tinsel Town’s his-

Districts, the Latino enclaves around Echo

tory, and experience its memorabilia at

Park, Hollywood’s Laurel Canyon, Little

The Hollywood Museum. Or participate in

Armenia, Thai Town, or Melrose District

the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and

where hipsters shop.

Sciences events and get swept up in the

When in LA, do as the celebs do and

120 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

pre-Oscar buzz.

LITTLENY/SHUTTERSTOCK

INSIDER’S

Seventy miles of beaches run along Los

FUN AT THE BEACH IN SANTA MONICA, right.

The Great Outdoors Despite its car culture rap, LA County offers lots of outdoor activities. Rent a bike along the Santa Monica Pier and ride down the path that parallels the ocean, through

and show your stuff at the legendary

Family Fun

Venice and on to Marina del Rey before dou-

Surfrider Beach at Malibu Lagoon State

Check out fossils of saber-toothed cats and

bling back. Pack a picnic lunch and hike

Beach. Explore tide pools and caves at Leo

mammoths that roamed the LA Basin

Echo Mountain in Altadena or the Arroyo

Carrillo State Park. Perhaps watch filming

during the Ice Age at the Page Museum at

Seco trail system in the San Gabriel Moun-

in progress at Malibu’s Point Dume State

the Rancho La Brea Tar Pits. If the kids are

tains. Sign up for rock-climbing instruction,

Beach, featured in movies such as the Iron

tired of trying to spot stars on Hollywood

or take a surfing or stand-up paddle

Man series (2008-2013). It also appeared in

Boulevard, take them to Griffith Observa-

boarding lesson from one of the many

the final scene of the original Planet of the

tory. Featured in many movies including

surfing centers in Santa Monica.

Apes (1968). Or look for California gray

Rebel Without a Cause (1955), the observa-

Explore the county’s varied beaches,

whales during their migrations from

tory is set on the southern slope of Mount

from the famous to the little known, but

December to mid April. Next, wind your

Hollywood in Griffith Park, with a view of

bring a sweater if you go early or plan to stay

way down through Topanga Beach and stop

the Hollywood sign and greater LA below.

late. In the summer, moist marine air is

over for a volleyball game at Will Rogers

View exhibits and events on Tuesday

pulled inland and forms a misty cover until

State Beach in Pacific Palisades. Then hop

through Sunday at the Samuel Oschin Plan-

it burns off by the afternoon, and tempera-

over to Venice and the Strand on Manhattan

etarium and Leonard Nimoy Event Horizon

tures drop with the sunset. Start in Malibu

Beach to people-watch.

Theater, and attend free public star parties monthly at the Observatory from 2 p.m. to 9:45 p.m. Budding astronomers and their

» TOUR MULHOLLAND DRIVE offers spectacular views of the HOLLYWOOD BOWL,

families are encouraged to try out different telescopes and talk to amateur astronomers about the sun, moon and planets.

Visit the California Science Center that houses the Endeavour, which traveled 123 million miles, the final ship to be built in

the LA BASIN and

NASA’s Space Shuttle program. View space

SAN FERNANDO VALLEY.

capsules from the Mercury, Gemini and

It’s about 24 miles from the

Apollo-Soyuz missions. Special exhibits

405 freeway to Highway 101 with overlooks all along the way. Or, drive in a loop from HOLLYWOOD. Starting at the DOLBY THEATRE, home of

include “Mission 26: ET Comes Home,”

the Academy Awards, go west on HOLLYWOOD BLVD. in Los Angeles

through the Panama Canal, its arrival in

till it ends. Turn right on LAUREL CANYON BLVD. and at the top, turn left on Mulholland Drive. Stop at the NANCY HOOVER POHL

OVERLOOK and enjoy a great view of the “Valley.” Return to Mulholland Drive, going eastbound, past Laurel Canyon Road until you see the HOLLYWOOD BOWL OVERLOOK on your right. Park and

which features moments of ET-94’s trip Marina del Rey, and its journey through the streets of Los Angeles to its new home at the science center. Enjoy the many touchfriendly exhibits such as the High-Wire

walk up to see the panoramic views of downtown LA, the Hollywood

Bicycle ($3), which allows the courageous

sign, Griffith Observatory and the Hollywood Bowl Amphitheater.

to safely bike along a one-inch wire 43 feet

Continue east until you reach the bottom of Mulholland Drive. Turn

above the ground. The gravitational forces

right on Woodrow Wilson and make an immediate right onto

on the counterweight prevent the bicycle

CAHUENGA BLVD., heading south back to Hollywood.

from tipping over and illustrate the center of gravity law.

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ONEINCHPUNCH/SHUTTERSTOCK

DRIVE

LANCASTER Where Los Angeles County meets the Mojave Desert

BY CHRISTINE DELSOL

TOUR, DINE, TAKE » IN AN AIR SHOW Lancaster Visitor Information destinationlancasterca.org

TRADITIONALLY has

enjoyed two claims to fame: the annual California Poppy Festival in April, and its status as an aviation mecca where Chuck Yeager first broke the sound barrier. But this high-desert city of 160,000, in the northeast corner of Los Angeles County, is also a vibrant urban area with increasingly sophisticated food, arts and entertainment offerings.

Outdoor Attractions

A FAMILY HIKE through the woodlands, above; the MOAH BLVD crosswalk art installation, below.

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Lancaster, 61 miles from LA in the Antelope Valley, is a proud portal to the Mojave Desert’s wide-open spaces. The Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve blazes with 1,500 acres of the orange-gold state flowers between February and May. Other state parks such as Red Rock Canyon, Arthur B. Ripley Desert Woodland and Saddleback Butte offer spectacular rock colors and formations, Joshua trees and lofty desert views. And who could resist the Cat House, a conservation center that houses and breeds endangered wild felines, from sand cats to tigers?

Other popular outdoor pursuits include hot-air ballooning, rock collecting and picking cherries at local farms. Adventurers can try the Sierra Highway Bike Trail or the Antelope Valley BMX course. For spectators, the Willow Springs International Raceway is the nation’s oldest permanent road course, while aviation buffs have the Los

Angeles County Aerospace Valley Air Shows in March and October, respectively.

Fine Dining & Cultural District Since the county’s never-ending expansion filled up the San Fernando Valley, the Antelope Valley has become the new focus, bringing trendy restaurants, up-tothe-minute shops and entertainment, museums and blooming art—even a Metro Link rail station—to Lancaster. In 2017, the California Arts Council recognized the BLVD (Lancaster Boulevard) among the first 14 California Cultural Districts.

In addition to the Performing Arts Center and the Museum of Art and History, Lancaster has been a site for the annual POW! WOW! The global weeklong art event, which has bestowed murals honoring local flora and fauna, space, pop culture and fantasy throughout downtown, will expand into residential neighborhoods this year. Other cultural repositories include the Antelope Valley Rural Museum, Antelope Valley Indian Museum and Western Hotel Museum.

Still a Small-Town Appeal Despite the increasing urban ambience, you can still count on small-town attractions like the Musical Road (it plays the William Tell Overture when you drive over it), the nearby Quail Run Ostrich Farm, and the strangely compelling San Andreas Fault whose cracks are exposed on Highway 14.

DESTINATION LANCASTER; MOAH

LANCASTER

PASADENA Stunning architecture, glorious gardens and a world-famous parade

BY MARIBETH MELLIN

DINE, SHOP,

» BASK IN ART Pasadena Tourism Information visitpasadena.com

PASADENA COLORADO STREET BRIDGE, above; Japanese Garden, below.

abuts the snow-capped San Gabriel Mountains just 10 miles northeast of downtown Los Angeles. The flower-bedecked Tournament of Roses Parade and the UCLA Bruins’ games in the Rose Bowl (which also hosts a popular flea market on the second Sunday of every month) are its most famous attractions, but there’s much more to explore.

You can easily spend a full day at the Huntington Library, Art Museum and Botanical Gardens. Boojum trees and towering cardon cacti rise beside flowering succulents in the Desert Garden, while the Rose Garden Tea Room offers lunch, pastries and Earl Grey. The Norton Simon Museum displays artworks from van Gogh and Picasso, and the 1917 Pasadena Playhouse, the official State Theatre of California, presents Broadway-bound plays.

Other attractions blend into the cityscape.

Architectural Highlights Pasadena boasts several architectural gems, including the Italian Renaissance Wrigley Mansion (also referred to as the Pasadena Tournament of Roses Headquarters) on Millionaire’s Row, a stretch of Orange Grove Boulevard lined with opulent homes from the early 20th century. Some residents chose to build Swiss chalets or French chateaus, while others preferred the burgeoning American Arts & Crafts style best represented in the stately Gamble House. The

126 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

1908 home, designed by Henry and Charles Greene, is open to the public for docent-led tours and is filled with gorgeous wooden furnishings and built-in details. Pasadena has such a large selection of the artistic bungalows it hosts a Craftsman Week every November. Other architectural highlights include the graceful curvilinear Colorado Street Bridge across the Arroyo Seco, and the Mediterranean-style Pasadena City Hall, a vision of domes, towers and archways.

Vibrant Neighborhoods Walking is a favorite mode of transportation in Pasadena’s 16 historic districts. In some areas, tree-lined sidewalks edge family homes in architectural standouts, while other areas bustle with diversions.

Restaurants abound in Julia Child’s birth city, where there are 650 more dining establishments per capita than in New York City, and there are plenty of places to linger over a drink or meal while checking out the local scene. Old Pasadena draws foodies and shoppers to a 22-block district packed with galleries, clubs, boutiques and eateries.

Commerce rules South Lake Avenue with businesses for all interests, from department stores to nail salons to dining enclaves interspersed by sculptures, statues and murals. The Playhouse District, named for the Spanish-Moorish theater, has an artistic flair, with bookstores, museums and wine bars.

JAMIE PHAM; HUNTINGTON LIBRARY, ART COLLECTION, AND BOTANICAL GARDENS

SUNNY, TEMPERATE PASADENA

ORANGE COUNTY Exquisite beaches, diverse cities and thriving arts scenes mark this Southern California county

BY CHRISTINE DELSOL TOP CITIES Anaheim, Buena Park, Costa Mesa, Fullerton, Garden Grove, Huntington Beach, Irvine, Laguna Beach, Newport Beach, Orange, San Juan Capistrano, Santa Ana, San Clemente INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY John Wayne/Orange County Airport (SNA), located at the juncture of Costa Mesa, Santa Ana and Newport Beach near I-405

D

ays when Disneyland, 42 miles of idyllic beaches and swaths of orange groves were all that lifted “The O.C.” out of Los Angeles’ shadow are long gone. Orange County today is a diverse collection

of cities counting famous surf breaks, historic missions, art colonies and scenic marinas among its attractions.

While beach towns—from surf-centric Huntington Beach to tony Newport to artsy Laguna to serene San Clemente—still embody the casual,

TOURISM WEBSITES visittheoc.com visitanaheim.org visitbuenapark.com travelcostamesa.com surfcityusa.com destinationirvine.com visitlagunabeach.com visitnewportbeach.com sanjuancapistrano.org

creative California of popular imagination, inland cities have grown into

POPULATION

Packing House food market, has distinguished itself from the Magic

3,186,000

Kingdom. About 30 percent of OC residents hail from another country, and

shopping, entertainment and sports meccas. Irvine—encompassing a University of California campus, the evolving Orange County Great Park and several “villages”—was the vanguard of a trend toward master-planned communities in recent decades.

Defying the suburban stereotype, Orange County cities possess distinct personalities. Even Anaheim, with its modern convention center, revival of the historic Center Street Promenade commerce district, and bustling

English is a second language for 45 percent; Little Saigon is the largest Vietnamese community outside of Vietnam. A true melting pot, the county hosts a dizzying array of ethnic food, festivals, markets and cultural events.

ORANGE COUNTY

Performance venues such as the Orange County Performing Arts Center and the South Coast Repertory are sprinkled throughout the county. Destination shopping malls, including Irvine Spectrum, Costa Mesa’s South

128 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

MUST

»

SEE, DO

»

Disneyland Resort Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge is the Magic Kingdom’s top draw now—who could pass up a smuggling operation in the Millennium Falcon or battling the First Order with the Resistance? Pixar, Marvel Comics and Twentieth Century Fox acquisitions may overshadow classic Disney characters, but princesses, witches and cute animals galore still enchant youngsters. There’s also a new carousel and Emotional Whirlwind ride at Pixar Pier in California Adventure. Look for Mickey, Minnie and Goofy to make a big comeback in 2022 with their own high-tech ride in Toontown. › disneyland.disney.go.com

OCEAN IMAGE PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK; JON BILOUS/SHUTTERSTOCK; KIT LEONG/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: JON BILOUS/SHUTTERSTOCK

»

VIEW FROM Crescent Bay Point Park, Laguna Beach, opposite; preparing to snorkel in San Clemente, left; Hilltop Park in Dana Point, top; Anaheim Regional Intermodal Transit Center, above.

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2020 DANA POINT FESTIVAL OF WHALES March 7-8, 14-15, Dana Point festivalofwhales.org

Orange County Great Park Marked by a huge orange balloon floating 400 feet overhead, the continually evolving 1,300-acre park on a former Marine air station is a family favorite offering open space, educational play areas, art galleries and studios, summertime movies on the lawn, a performance plaza and a weekly farmers market. 2019 brought one of the nation’s largest public ice facilities and 1.5 miles of walking/biking trails through restored native landscape that includes a playground and picnic area.

Also last year, the 194-acre Sports Complex, which opened in 2017 with a soccer stadium and fields and tennis and volleyball courts, added baseball, softball and basketball facilities. › ocgp.org

»

Lot 579, Huntington Beach Just south of “Surf City’s” downtown, steps from Huntington Beach Pier and the city’s famous sands, the sidewalk cafés and markets of this waterfront food hall offer a delicious variety of towering gourmet sandwiches, fresh fish, Vietnamese comfort food, gelato on a stick and other treats. Lot 579 is an anchor of Pacific City, the two-yearold shopping, dining and entertainment complex whose Craftsman-style bungalows pay homage to the early oceanfront village that became Huntington Beach. The communal space upstairs offers plenty of seating and a killer ocean view. › gopacificcity.com/lot579

»

HUNTINGTON BEACH 4TH OF JULY PARADE & FIREWORKS July 4, Huntington Beach huntingtonbeachparade.com

Laguna Beach’s Pageant of the Masters Art literally comes to life in the unique Pageant of the Masters, in which living actors take up positions against painted backdrops to re-create world masterpieces in eerie 3-D fidelity. It’s the pièce de résistance among the festivals, workshops, galleries and proliferation of public art in the picturesque beach town that began life in the early 1900s as a small artists’ colony. › visitlagunabeach.com › foapom.com

PAGEANT OF THE MASTERS July 8-Sept. 3, Laguna Beach foapom.com

»

SWALLOWS’ DAY PARADE AND MERCADO STREET FAIRE March 21, San Juan Capistrano swallowsparade.com BATTLE OF THE MARIACHIS May 9, Mission San Juan Capistrano missionsjc.com SAWDUST ART & CRAFT FESTIVAL June 26-Aug. 30, Laguna Beach sawdustartfestival.org

TALL SHIPS FESTIVAL Sept. 11-13, Dana Point Harbor ocean-institute.org/tall-ships-festival NEWPORT BEACH CHRISTMAS BOAT PARADE Dec. 16-20, Newport Beach christmasboatparade.com

Old Towne Orange Not to be missed in this square mile of Early California homes, sporting handsome Victorian, Craftsman, Bungalow and Spanish architecture, is the Old Towne Orange Walking Food Tour. The county’s oldest operating bank and soda fountain can also be found among the locally owned shops, galleries, fountains and pretty sidewalk cafés. › oldtownorangewalkingfoodtours.com

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 129

Coast Plaza and Fashion Island in

City & Town

Newport Beach, vie with dozens of

Anaheim is the largest of Orange

local shopping districts.

County’s 34 cities. None has a typical

Sports fans cheer the Los Angeles

downtown,

though

INSIDER’S

» TIP

Huntington

Angels at the Angel Stadium in

Beach offers a vibrant seaside city

As Orange County’s seat, second-

Anaheim and the Anaheim Ducks

center. History buffs gravitate to San

most populous city and home to

hockey team at Honda Center, which

Juan Capistrano’s beautifully preserved 18th-century mission, Yorba

JOHN

doubles as a big-name concert venue.

More than 40 championship courses

Linda’s Nixon Presidential Library

and a temperate climate await golfers,

and the restored Victorian homes

image more businesslike than

while hotel and day spas stand ready

and historic city centers in Santa Ana

fun. However, residents treasure

to soothe aches and tone muscles.

and Orange.

their artsy downtown with its

WAYNE

INTERNATIONAL

AIRPORT, Santa Ana projects an

funky galleries, theaters, folk-art shops and inexpensive sidewalk cafés. Start a journey into Santa Ana’s bohemian side at the 10block ARTISTS VILLAGE, anchored

by Cal State Fullerton’s GRAND CENTRAL ART CENTER with its theater, dance studios, edgy galleries and artists’ live-work spaces. Just outside, go galleryhopping around the SECOND STREET

PROMENADE,

which

serves as the village’s leafy, central

courtyard. For a broader sense of the downtown arts scene, the first Saturday of the month brings ARTWALK, when more than 20 galleries open their doors at 6 p.m. Trees twinkling with lights, street vendors and corner musicians, and live arts performances provide a festive atmosphere for glimpses into art studios and design workshops. grandcentralartcenter.com dtsaartwalk.org

130 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

STEVE CUKROV/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: COSTA MESA CVB; KESTERHU/SHUTTERSTOCK

fountain-studded

PELICAN HILL GOLF COURSE, left; heading for the surf at Huntington Beach Pier, opposite; Huntington Beach volleyball, below.

The Great Outdoors The coastline with its world-famous surf spots (Huntington Beach, the Wedge at Newport Beach, Trestles in San Clemente), yacht harbors (Newport Beach, Dana Point) and protected areas (Crystal Cove State Park’s underwater reserve, the wetlands of California’s first state beach, Doheny) are just the beginning of Orange County’s natural wonders. Inland canyons and parks

DRIVE

» TOUR

teem with wildlife and hiking and biking trails, such as Irvine’s 300-acre San Joaquin Marsh and Wildlife Sanctuary.

The most scenic drive, best attempted on weekdays

Family Fun

between rush hours, follows

Disneyland and Knott’s Berry Farm are a

Highway 1 along the coastline

given, but don’t overlook fun at Sky Zone

from SAN CLEMENTE to LONG

Anaheim’s indoor trampolines and Pre-

BEACH. Stop in the popular

tend City Children’s Museum in Irvine,

towns of LAGUNA BEACH,

where kids go to “work,” collect their pay

NEWPORT BEACH or

from ATMs and buy groceries. Santa Ana’s

HUNTINGTON BEACH—or all

Discovery Cube Orange County offers

three—for a taste of the

dozens of hands-on science activities, and

casual, diverse Southern

Dana Point’s Ocean Institute runs marine

California beach scene.

science and history expeditions on a tall ship or a research vessel.

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 131

NORTH COAST Picturesque fishing harbors, Victorian villages and the world’s tallest trees

BY JOHN FLINN

TOP CITIES Mendocino, Eureka, Crescent City, Fort Bragg, Garberville, Arcata, Ukiah, Cloverdale, Ferndale

TOURISM WEBSITES delnorte.org exploredelnorte.com northcoastca.com visitredwoods.com visitmendocino.com redwoodcoastparks.com

T

his should put things in perspective: The North Coast’s tallest building is only 77 feet tall, but its tallest tree stands 379 feet tall. Until you’ve seen one up close, it’s hard to

grasp just how neck-craningly high a coastal redwood tree can grow.

These 3,000-year-old arboreal titans—nature’s loftiest skyscrapers—grow in only one place in the world: a narrow strip of fog-shrouded mountains along California’s wild and relatively unvisited North Coast.

The Redwood Highway Old-growth redwoods are preserved in a chain of parks strung along

POPULATION 782,000

Highway 101, known in these parts as the Redwood Highway. In southern Humboldt County, Humboldt Redwoods State Park straddles the scenic drive known as the Avenue of the Giants. In northern Humboldt and Del Norte counties, a cluster of parks—

NORTH COAST

Redwood National Park (which turned 50 in 2018) and Prairie Creek Redwoods, Del Norte Coast Redwoods and Jedediah Smith Redwoods state parks—form one contiguous redwood reserve.

132 2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I F O R N I A

WELCOMIA/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: TOM REICHNER/SHUTTERSTOCK

GATEWAY The Arcata-Eureka Airport (EKA), 16 miles (26 km) from downtown Eureka, has service from San Francisco and other hubs, but no international flights

MUST

»

SEE, DO

»

Forest Tracks Built in 1885 to haul redwood logs from the tangled backcountry to coastal sawmills, the iconic Skunk Train now carries passengers on two different runs starting at Fort Bragg and the inland town of Willits, respectively.

The shorter coastal route snakes along the Novo River canyon, through redwood groves and past an old logging camp. And don’t worry: The train’s name derives from an original, stinky gasoline engine that long ago was consigned to the junkyard. › skunktrain.com

»

Boulevard of Big Trees The Avenue of the Giants is a 31-mile detour from Highway 101 that weaves in and out of lofty, old-growth redwood trees like a slalom course. The route takes you through the heart of Humboldt Redwoods State Park, one of the best places along the North Coast to gaze up in awe.

Sunnier and drier than redwood parks farther to the north, it’s less tangled with undergrowth, making it easier to wander and wonder. › avenueofthegiants.net

»

Community Forest Arcata, with a town square lined with a mixture of hippie-chic boutiques, eclectic restaurants and old-time lumberjack bars, is home to Humboldt State University. Spend some time wandering its community forest and the innovative wastewater treatment facility that has become a thriving sanctuary for migratory birds. › cityofarcata.org

SUNSHINE, FOG, SEA and forest grace the coast between Crescent City and Eureka, above; Roosevelt elk bulls joust during September breeding season in Redwood National and State Parks, right.

INSIDER’S

» TIP

The sounds of chainsaws and buzzing sawmills that once dominated the North Coast are rapidly fading as the lumber industry winds down. In former mill

Once a seedy skid row, EUREKA’S

towns such as Fort Bragg, tourism is

WATERFRONT has been

replacing timber as innovative galleries,

transformed into the city’s

restaurants and brew-pubs spring to life.

liveliest and most inviting district,

Although it’s sometimes called the

with Victorian storefronts

Redwood Empire, the North Coast is

housing restaurants, galleries,

more than just tall trees: It’s also salmon-

shops and museums, all crowned

fishing boats bobbing in tiny harbors;

by the iconic CARSON MANSION,

Roosevelt elk bugling across misty

a masterpiece of over-the-top

meadows; steam trains chuffing through

Victorian opulence.

a damp and dripping forest; hole-in-the-

eurekamainstreet.org

wall restaurants serving fish smoked according to traditional Native American

»

Big Eats To satisfy a lumberjack-sized appetite, drive across Humboldt Bay on the Samoa Bridge to the Samoa Cookhouse for colossal, allyou-can-eat meals served family style. The last surviving cookhouse of its kind in the U.S., it’s been serving hungry mill workers, longshoremen and tourists since 1890. › samoacookhouse.net

»

Victorian Hamlet Gaily painted Victorian mansions line the streets of Ferndale, an idyllic hamlet on the Eel River delta in southern Humboldt County. Lovingly preserved, they give the town a turn-of-the-last-century look that has proven irresistible to Hollywood. More than a dozen movies have been filmed here. Main Street’s shops keep the Victorian theme going, with old-fashioned mercantiles and even a blacksmith shop. Cradled between two redwood forests, the entire town is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. › visitferndale.com

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 133

recipes; vineyards close enough to the coast to catch the salt spray; an old Russian trading fort; handsome Victorian villages; possible glimpses of the elusive creature known as Bigfoot; wealthy, tie-dyed growers of the region’s largest cash crop, which California voters recently legalized; and bouts of creative madness such as elaborate sculptures racing across the landscape.

For generations, the North Coast was said to be on the far side of the “redwood curtain,” the psychological barrier formed by narrow, tortuous Highway 101, which

DRIVE

was little more than a two-lane conduit for heavily-laden logging trucks. But California has spent the last two decades improving the road—straightening curves, widening it in many places to four lanes— and now the road is an easy drive.

CRESCENT CITY

» TOUR From the GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE, head over to the SONOMA COAST

EUREKA

at BODEGA BAY (yes, that Bodega Bay: Alfred Hitchcock filmed The Birds there), and follow dramatic, winding Highway 1 north past the

HUMBOLDT REDWOODS STATE PARK

AVENUE OF THE GIANTS LEGGETT

old Russian fort, FORT ROSS, and Sea Ranch, GUALALA, MENDOCINO and FORT BRAGG before heading inland to connect with Highway

MENDOCINO

101—“The Redwood Highway”—at

LEGGETT, site of the DRIVE-THRU TREE PARK. Continuing north on the Redwood Highway, you’ll come to HUMBOLDT REDWOODS STATE

GUALALA

FORT ROSS BODEGA BAY

PARK and the AVENUE OF THE GIANTS, EUREKA and the cluster of redwood parks extending almost to the Oregon border.

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SAN FRANCISCO

DON LEONARD; SERGEY NOVIKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK; VICTORIA DITKOVSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: MENDOCINO COUNTY CVB

LADY WASHINGTON at Humboldt Bay’s marina, above; marveling at the tall trees in Humboldt Redwoods State Park, left; the Carson Mansion is an elegant Victorian house in Old Town Eureka, bottom; toasting the sunset at Little River in Mendocino County, opposite.

City & Town Transplanted New Englanders founded the town of Mendocino on a rocky bluff above

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2020

the crashing Pacific Ocean, and it still sports a whitewashed Cape Cod look. Once

WHALES AND WINE Gray whales pass by Mendocino in November on their way south

a mill town, it went into decay in the 1930s

for the winter and return in March on their way north for the summer. At the Mendocino

as the local timber trade waned but was

Coast Whale Festival, you can sample all manner of chowder, locally brewed beer and

rediscovered in the 1960s by bohemians

wine, while—with any luck—the passing cetaceans spout just off the Mendocino head-

and artists. On the shore of Humboldt Bay, Eureka, the largest town on the North

lands. March 7-8, 14-15, 21-22 mendocinocoast.com/whale-home KINETIC SCULPTURE RACE Peripatetic artists of genius or possibly borderline sanity

Coast, has also reversed decades of decline

gather each Memorial Day weekend to race giant, whimsical, people-powered sculptures

and turned its waterfront Old Town into an

from Arcata to Ferndale along a 40-mile course that includes a crossing of Humboldt

inviting Victorian district of galleries, bou-

Bay. It’s called “the triathalon of the art world.” May 23-25 kineticgrandchampionship.com

tiques and cafés. Crescent City was virtually wiped off the map by a tsunami in 1964. Rebuilt now, it sports a smattering of

BIGFOOT DAYS The earliest and most persistent sightings of that elusive creature known as Bigfoot have happened around the Siskiyou Mountain town of Willow Creek.

Each year on Labor Day weekend, the community fetes its furry friend with Bigfoot Days.

hotels and motels that make it a good base

Don’t expect to see the big guy himself, but you’ll encounter a number of people who

for exploring nearby Jedediah Smith Red-

claim to have met him. Sept. 5-7 bigfootcountry.net

woods State Park.

SYMPHONY OF THE REDWOODS For more than 30 years, this organization has brought

Heritage & Culture Native American tribes such as the Yurok

a wide variety of classical performances to the North Coast, including a seasonal concert series in Fort Bragg. Four dates between Feb. 1 and April 5 symphonyoftheredwoods.org

and Hoopa lived along the North Coast for centuries before the arrival of fur trappers—both Russians working their way down from Alaska and American mountain men such as Jedediah Smith coming overland. For more than two centuries, resource extraction—primarily logging— was the region’s economic engine. As dwindling forests and stricter environmental laws took their tolls starting in the 1970s, the North Coast has transitioned to tourism as its mainstay.

Family Fun Young children might have trouble fully appreciating the timelessness of an ancient redwood tree, but they’ll enjoy a gondola ride through the silent forest canopy and a chance to have their picture taken with four-story-high statues of Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox. Look for it at Trees of Mystery, near the town of Klamath.

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 135

REDWOOD COAST PARKS Home of the world’s tallest trees

BY MICHAEL SHAPIRO

Redwood Coast Parks Visitor Information redwoodcoastparks.com

TALL TREES GROVE, above; sea kayaking in Trinidad, below.

descent to Redwood Creek. Equally stun-

skyward, coast redwoods are the tallest

ning trees can be seen by hiking the less

living things on the planet, forming forest

strenuous and more accessible Prairie

cathedrals where the only sounds other

Creek Foothill Trail Loop.

than your footsteps are often the songs of

Why drive five hours north from San

elusive birds or perhaps the bugling of Roo-

Francisco to the Redwood parks when you

sevelt elk.

can travel 40 minutes to Muir Woods?

Located in California’s upper northwest,

“There is a singularity and order of magni-

Redwood National Park and contiguous

tude,” says former park ranger turned

state parks form an unbroken reserve for

redwood advocate Richard Stenger. “It’s the

these swaying giants, many higher than a

forest equivalent of being on top of Mount

30-story building. And these remarkably

Everest.” On the way, you can explore the

verdant groves are often nearly deserted, a

Avenue of the Giants, a 31-mile detour off

stark contrast to the bustling hordes that

Highway 101 that weaves through towering

parade through redwood groves closer to

redwood trees.

urban centers, such as Muir Woods near San Francisco.

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To make the most of a trip here, visitors should spend three days in the area. Day

Less than five percent of the West’s old-

1: take in the gargantuan redwoods (entry

growth redwood forests remain, but at

to the Redwood parks is free). Day 2:

Redwood National and State Parks you can

explore Fern Canyon, the setting for a

walk for miles and miles, craning your neck

Jurassic Park film, which Stenger calls “a

or reclining on the soft forest floor. Ten of

living remnant from the dinosaur age.”

the sixteen tallest trees in the world live

Day 3: relax on nearby beaches. Big Lagoon

here, including the 380-foot Hyperion. To

State Park offers a chance to fish, swim

protect this tree the park doesn’t share its

(the water is chilly) or kayak. A hidden

location, but you can see several other

gem is Agate Beach near Patrick’s Point,

giants in the park’s Tall Trees Grove, a four-

which sparkles with sea-polished semi-

mile-roundtrip hike with a steep 800-foot

precious stones.

DREW HYLAND/REWDOOD COAST PARKS; KAYAK TRINIDAD

EXPLORE, » HIKE, PADDLE, WANDER

REACHING MORE THAN 350 FEET

HIGH SIERRA This stunning land provides peace, tranquility and countless recreational activities

BY JOHN FLINN TOP CITIES South Lake Tahoe, Truckee, Tahoe City, Bishop, Mammoth Lakes, Oakhurst, Madera INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Reno-Tahoe International Airport (RNO), 3 miles from Reno, Nevada city center

“O

f all the mountain ranges I have climbed,” wrote John

Muir, “I like the Sierra Nevada the best.” His pet name for it was “The Range of Light.” It’s not just the ethereal lumi-

nosity of the glacially polished granite that drew the renowned naturalist—and continues to draw people—to the Sierra again and again. It’s the pristine lakes and rivers, the dramatic hiking and biking trails, the contrast between the green meadows and stony battlements.

The Sierra Nevada may be one of the highest and most majestic mountain ranges in North America, but it’s also one of the most accessible and user-friendly. Stretching 400 miles from north to south, and about 70 from east to west, it’s crossed by seven highways—four of them open all year—and encompasses every-

POPULATION 600,000

thing from Lake Tahoe—where you might find yourself crowding shoulder-to-shoulder around a boisterous craps table—to remote canyons in Yosemite or Kings Canyon national parks where you can spend a silent and solitary afternoon watching Muir’s favorite bird, the water ouzel, plunge into waterfalls and cascades.

In a state with no shortage of superlatives, the region has more than its share: It can boast the world’s oldest tree, the world’s most

HIGH SIERRA

massive tree, the Old West’s largest ghost town, the nation’s highest waterfall and—until Alaska came along and rewrote the record books—the nation’s highest peak.

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RCPPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: TOBKATRINA/SHUTTERSTOCK

TOURISM WEBSITES travelyosemite.com visitinglaketahoe.com tahoesouth.com yosemitethisyear.com visitmammoth.com gotahoenorth.com bishopvisitor.com

The range is home to three national

cobblestone street: It’s gently sloped on the

parks, 15 state parks, two national monu-

west side and quite steep on the east, lower

ments

designated

in the north and higher in the south. Keep

wilderness areas. Hikers get itchy feet at the

that in mind when choosing a hiking trail:

mere mention of its celebrated walking

for an easier amble, look to the north and

paths: the John Muir Trail; the Tahoe Rim

west; for a challenging ascent, head south

Trail; the Pacific Crest Trail; the Tahoe-Yose-

and east.

and

20

officially

mite Trail. At the drop of winter’s first

MUST

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SEE, DO

Oldest Trees Bristlecone pines growing

high in the White Mountains are the world’s

snowflake, skiers begin making plans for

City & Town

oldest trees, some surviving nearly 5,000 years.

the three premier ski resorts on America’s

Now connected by gondola to the Heavenly

To visit them, follow Highway 168 for 26 miles

West Coast: Squaw Valley (site of the 1960

ski resort, the bustling town of South Lake

east from the town of Big Pine. An easy, mile-long

Winter Olympics), Heavenly and Mammoth

Tahoe, located on the lakeshore and the

Mountain. Streams rushing down the

Nevada border, has seen an injection of

range’s sheer east slope into the Owens Valley are renowned for their fly fishing.

trail winds through the Schulman Grove.

›

bishopvisitor.com/activities/bristlecone-forest

energy and interest in recent years, with

»

Climbing “California’s Everest” At

new restaurants, shops and galleries. With

14,495-feet, Mount Whitney is the highest summit

Geographically speaking, the mountain

a large inventory of hotel rooms and a clu-

in the lower 48 states. It is also, surprisingly, the

range is pretty much one big chunk of gra-

ster of hotel-casinos just a few steps over

most frequently climbed peak in California—

nite tilted like a badly placed brick in a

the border, it’s a good bet for inexpensive

thanks to a well-graded, 11-mile trail to the top.

Very fit hikers make it up and down in one long, arduous day. Sounds tough, but it’s so popular there’s a lottery for the coveted permits.

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nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/whitney.htm

Mountain Hamlet The picturesque town

of Markleeville (pop. 210) is the largest metropolis in Alpine County, California’s least populated county. It makes a great base for fishing excursions and for soaking up the Sierra’s version of fall colors—the turning of the aspens.

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alpinecounty.com/area-info/markleeville-woodfords

The Wild, Wild West Possibly the Old

West’s most notorious mining town, Bodie now exists in a state of “arrested decay” on a high, windswept plain northeast of Yosemite. It’s one of America’s most extensive ghost towns.

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2020

›

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www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=509

Lake Tahoe Salmon Run Salmon in Lake

Tahoe? Yes, every autumn the kokanee salmon congregate by the thousands at the mouth of “LIGHTS ON THE LAKE,” held each Fourth of July at South Lake Tahoe, is the largest

Taylor Creek on the south shore to make their

synchronized fireworks show west of the Mississippi. July 4 tahoesouth.com

spawning run upstream, drawing bears and mergansers to dine, and people to look on in awe. The

With past participants such as Justin Timberlake, Steph Curry and Michael Jordan, South Lake

site also has interpretive paths and a sunken

Tahoe’s AMERICAN CENTURY GOLF CHAMPIONSHIP has been called the “Super Bowl

aquarium that suggests you’ve descended

of Celebrity Sports.” July 7-12 americancenturychampionship.com

beneath the surface of the creek itself.

›

facebook.com/TaylorCreekVisitorCenter

The hundreds of Hollywood westerns and other movies filmed in and around Lone Pine, from 1925’s Riders of the Purple Sage to 2008’s Ironman, are celebrated by the LONE PINE FILM FESTIVAL. Oct. 8-11 lonepinefilmfestival.org

CANOEING beneath the Sierra ramparts, left; hiking in Yosemite National Park with Half Dome, opposite.

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road and lumber town between Donner Pass and Squaw Valley, a collection of Old West historic buildings along Commercial Row now houses busy restaurants and bars, some adorned with portraits of gunslingers and desperadoes. Farther south, sprawling Bishop sports the Owens Valley’s most extensive collection of lodging, dining and resupply outlets.

The Great Outdoors Just a few hours’ drive from San Francisco or Los Angeles, the Sierra Nevada has been California’s outdoor playground almost since the arrival of the original 49ers. In Yosemite Valley, spectators with telescopes watch the progress of climbers inching their way up the impossibly sheer KENNEDY MEADOWS HORSEBACK riding, above; chef demo at Yosemite Food and Wine Events, bottom; family in the Mariposa Grove of giant sequoias, Yosemite, opposite.

granite walls. Tempted to try it? Sign up for an introductory class at the Yosemite Mountaineering School—or at least treat

DRIVE

» TOUR

yourself to a “Go Climb a Rock” T-shirt.

With some of the most reliably sunny summer weather of any major mountain range, the High Sierra is a hiker’s paradise, from easy day walks in the Desolation Wilderness to challenging, multi-week journeys through Kings Canyon and

Highway 120 is a magical mystery tour through the heart of Yosemite National Park’s exquisite high country. From the handsome old mining town of GROVELAND, follow 120 east into the park (HETCH HETCHY, the fraternal twin of Yosemite Valley that was dammed to provide San Francisco’s water supply, is a short side trip) past the TUOLUMNE GROVE of giant sequoias and up into the rarefied alpine world.

Pull over at OLMSTED POINT to view HALF DOME from an angle you’ve never seen before. You’ll traverse TUOLUMNE MEADOWS, the jumping-off point for some of Yosemite’s finest hiking trails, and cross 9,943-foot TIOGA PASS before descending three-quarters of a vertical mile to shimmering MONO LAKE.

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MACKENZIE RODGERS. OPPOSITE: KENNY KARST/DNC PARKS & RESORTS AT YOSEMITE, INC.; KENNY KARST/DNC PARKS & RESORTS AT YOSEMITE, INC.

lodging. In Truckee, a handsome old rail-

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largest such collection in North America. In the Hope Valley, just south of Lake Tahoe, you can still see ruts in the rocks left by the covered wagons of settlers on the Emigrant

For an intimate and unusual

Trail. The shafts of thousands of abandoned

exploration of MONO LAKE, rent

mines pockmark the High Sierra. One of the

kayaks to paddle around the

best places to see one is the Great Sierra Mine,

weirdly picturesque TUFA

a short but steep hike from Tioga Pass in Yose-

TOWERS and other landmarks.

mite. You’ll find the remains of old miners’

calderakayak.com

cabins, but exercise care around the shafts, several of which remain open and unfenced.

Sequoia national parks. Skiers have their

Family Fun

choice of world-class venues, from

If the kids aren’t yet ready for full-on cam-

beginner-friendly Granlibakken to the

ping, Lake Tahoe has two old-timey resorts

double-diamond chutes of Squaw Valley

with knotty-pine cabins scattered in the

and Heavenly. In summer, many of the

trees near the lakeshore, bike and paddle-

resorts—particularly Northstar and Mam-

boat rentals and ice cream parlors. Camp

moth—convert their lifts and gondolas to

Richardson is on the west shore, near

carry mountain bikes.

Tahoe City; Zephyr Cove is on the south shore, just over the border in Nevada.

Heritage & Culture

camprichardson.com zephyrcove.com

Native Americans, pioneer emigrants and gold miners all left their marks on the High Sierra—often literally. At Grinding Rock State Historic Park near the town of Twain Harte, Miwok Indians once ground acorns on an outcrop of marbleized limestone. The 1,185 mortar holes they left behind constitute the

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MAMMOTH LAKES Find your adventure in the California high country

BY BILL FINK

HIKE, FISH, » GOLF, SKI! Mammoth Lakes Visitor Information visitmammoth.com Mammoth Mountain Skiing & More mammothmountain.com junemountain.com

THE MAMMOTH LAKES region sprawls

Lakes is so popular for fishing that many

across the mountains, meadows and water-

local motels provide fish-cleaning facili-

ways of the Eastern Sierras, providing a

ties. The area features excellent fly fishing

spectacular setting for outdoor fun

in streams, as well as lure-based fishing

throughout the year. Two hours north of

in lakes (including lakes Convict and

Mount Whitney, the Continental United

Crowley). The “grand slam” of trout

States’ highest point, and only 45 minutes

fishing—rainbow,

from Yosemite’s east entrance, Mammoth

golden—awaits your arrival. Skip the

Lakes is a perfect outdoor playground

fishing rod and just paddle a kayak, canoe

accessible by driving as well as by flights to

or stand-up paddle board through the lakes

Mammoth-Yosemite Airport, just a 10-

and rivers to enjoy the scenery, or even try

minute ride to town.

a guided historical tour while paddling on

brook,

brown

and

Mono Lake. Explore the wonders of geology

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Summer Fun

at Devils Postpile National Monument and

Summer brings hikers and bikers to explore

marvel at its towering basalt columns, then

the extensive Mammoth Lakes Trail System

cool off in the spray of the hundred-foot-

on anything from rugged multi-day adven-

tall Rainbow Falls nearby. Summer is

tures to gentle walks on flat, shaded forest

festival time around Mammoth Lakes, with

trails. Golfers boast about extra-long drives

a calendar filled with concerts and events,

in the thin high-elevation air of Sierra Star

including the always popular August

and Snowcreek Golf Courses. Mammoth

Bluesapalooza music and beer festival.

STAND-UP PADDLE BOARD YOGA on Twin Lakes at the annual Mammoth Yoga Festival, opposite; fishing, climbing and snowboarding opportunities abound in Mammoth Lakes, right.

Summer 2020 also brings new and old thrill-seeker experiences: additions to Mammoth’s high-wire Via Ferrata cliff-edge climbing courses, and a day at the Mammoth Bike Park with more than 80 miles of singletrack on truly radical terrain (but also with a beginner-friendly Discovery Zone).

Winter Adventure As the name suggests, Mammoth Mountain ski resort is gigantic, with terrain descending from multiple peaks providing runs suitable for all levels of skiers. The resort creates more than a dozen terrain

DAKOTA SNIDER/VISIT MAMMOTH; JOSH WRAY/VISIT MAMMOTH; DAKOTA SNIDER/VISIT MAMMOTH. OPPOSITE: DAKOTA SNIDER/VISIT MAMMOTH

parks for snowboarders, and hosts regular competitions for those who just want to watch. The 2020 ski season will add new eating and drinking venues at Mammoth Mountain, including the Canyon BBQ and the indoor/outdoor Lincoln Bar at Canyon Lodge, and the Fowl Language southernstyle restaurant at Eagle Lodge. Work off the

or hot Cuban Sandwiches at the new Dos

Fall Colors

meals at the Tamarack Ski Center and the

Alas CubaRican Café with their equally

Fall foliage provides a feast for the eyes all

Mammoth Lakes Nordic Trail System with

tasty views of the Sherwin Mountains.

around Mammoth Lakes. There’s nothing quite like hiking through the colors in the

some cross-country skiing. For non-skiers, the Mammoth Lakes area offers dogsled

Spring Activities

crisp fall air on the Mammoth Rock Trail or

rides, snowmobiling, snowshoe tours, fat-

Spring around Mammoth Lakes offers great

the Heart Lake Trail, camping for a couple

tire snow biking and even snowcat rides to

deals on lodging and activities for those

of days amidst the trees at the Sherwin

scenic picnic spots. Small kids enjoy Mam-

looking for some late-season sunny skiing

Creek Campground, or even just driving the

moth’s tubing park, winter parades with

(Mammoth Mountain often stays open past

winding mountain roads of the June Lake

mascot “Woolly” and scenic gondola rides.

Memorial Day) or some early biking and

Loop to enjoy the spectacular reds, yellows

June Mountain, a 20-mile drive from Mam-

fishing, as well as hiking to see early wild-

and greens of aspen groves and cottonwood

moth Lakes, is a laid-back ski resort where

flower blooms. Some people tackle the

trees below towering pine forests. The

kids 12 and under ski for free! If it’s too cold

“spring triathlon” of skiing, biking and

adventurous can soar above the display on

outside, dine and play inside at the Mam-

fishing in a single day. Spring is also a good

helicopter tours. Or play cowboy and

moth Rock ’n’ Bowl, or catch a film at the

time for birding, when enthusiasts come to

explore the foliage by horseback on

remodelled Minaret Cinemas with new

spy many of the 300 species of local and

daytrips, or multi-day horseback adven-

beer and wine service. Beer enthusiasts can

migratory birds that fly through the area,

tures through historical sites in the hills.

sip through the Eastern Sierra Brewery

including the horde of 50,000 California gulls

For a spooky Halloween, or any quiet day,

Tour, and try more regional brews at the

nesting at Mono Lake each year. Clearing

visit the ghost town within Bodie State

Public House Tap Room. For a taste of the

skies provide great stargazing opportunities

Park, the abandoned remnants of a gold

south, warm up with street tacos at the new

for visitors to the Eastern Sierra Observatory

mining settlement about 60 miles north of

El Charro Taqueria at the Sierra Center Mall

in their extended May viewing dates.

Mammoth Lakes.

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LAKE TAHOE SOUTH SHORE Indoor and outdoor mountain playground

HIKE, PLAY, » EAT, DANCE! Visitor Information tahoesouth.com skiheavenly.com biketahoe.org americancentury championship.com fs.usda.gov/ltbmu kirkwood.com sierraattahoe.com edgewoodtahoe.com southtahoeairporter.com caesars.com/harrahs-tahoe caesars.com/harveys-tahoe hardrockcasinolaketahoe.com montbleuresort.com

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FROM SERENE VIEWS over mirror-flat

waters of spectacular Lake Tahoe. Beaches

morning waters of Lake Tahoe and the

are packed with summer revelers, while the

gentle footfall of hikers on pine needle-

waters are dotted with visitors on kayaks

covered forest paths, to the jangle of slot

and stand-up paddle boards, small sail-

machines and the pumping bass of dance

boats, fishing cruisers, water-ski boats,

clubs, Lake Tahoe South Shore (what the

luxury cruising vessels and even the 500-

marketers call Tahoe South) is a destination

passenger paddlewheel boat M.S. Dixie II

spanning the California and Nevada bor-

that sails to Emerald Bay on sightseeing

ders that hosts a unique mix of wilderness

trips and sunset dinner cruises. On land, the

and wild-ness, an indoor and outdoor play-

South Shore is a hiker’s paradise with

ground with equal measures of altitude and

options including multi-day treks into the

attitude. Visitors can find peace and soli-

Desolation Wilderness or a steep day’s

tude on backcountry hikes or ski runs, or

climb up to the awe-inspiring views from

dive into a swirling social scene at a packed

Mount Tallac, as well as relaxed family

summer beach, holler at a crowded craps

strolls in flat meadows at Camp Richardson

table or slurp microbrews at an après ski

and around the lakeshore Tallac Historic

bar complete with go-go dancers. It’s

Site. Cyclists can take advantage of a net-

dealer’s choice on the South Shore.

work of road rides and mountain paths with everything from the easy to extreme, from

Summer

a scenic roll in the woods to stunt-biking in

Summer activity around the South Shore is

Bijou Bike Park, treacherous, teeth-rattling

understandably focused on the beautiful

mountain descents or even a 72-mile ride

RACHID DAHNOUN/LAKE TAHOE VISITORS AUTHORITY; COURTESY HELL’S KITCHEN

BY BILL FINK

all the way around Lake Tahoe. Golfers play on several area courses, including the lakeside Edgewood Tahoe Golf Course (home of the popular American Century celebrity golf tournament in July) and can stay in the course-side Lodge at Edgewood. Heavenly Mountain Resort’s on-mountain Epic Discovery Adventure Center has a plethora of fun summer activities including ropes courses and climbing walls.

Winter Lake Tahoe South Shore boasts three world

Sacramento) with specially designed

enly Village Summer Concert Series. Packed

class ski resorts: Heavenly, Kirkwood and

learning terrain. With 130 daily flights

bars and clubs give South Tahoe’s indoor

Sierra-at-Tahoe. Heavenly’s wide variety of

arriving at Reno/Tahoe International Air-

playground a Vegas feel, albeit at 6200 feet

terrain spans two states, offering con-

port, and expanded ground transport

above sea level (don’t forget to rehydrate in

trasting views of the blue Tahoe waters and

services with South Tahoe Airporter and

the high and dry air!). Outside the casinos,

the high-prairie Nevada countryside. The

UberSKI, getting here and getting around in

the main strip of town has shopping with

Heavenly Gondola connects visitors right

winter is easier than ever.

name-brand boutiques as well as quirky local ski shops and crafts stores. Dining

into the action in the center of South Lake Tahoe. Heavenly’s Tamarack Lodge hosts a

24/7/365

options cover anything from sushi to pizza

lively après ski scene, as does their LAT 38

When the day of outdoor activity is done,

and gourmet cuisine at Hell’s Kitchen, the

rooftop bar at the California Lodge. Kirk-

the second shift of fun is just beginning

new Gordon Ramsay restaurant at Harveys

wood, about a 45-minute drive from town,

around South Lake Tahoe. On the Nevada

Lake Tahoe. When you finally decide to take

is known for its advanced chutes, the

side of the border, high-rise casinos rock

a rest, South Lake Tahoe offers a vast array

“Expedition Kirkwood” adventure ski pro-

with the sounds and energy of non-stop

of lodging options from high-rise casino

gram, deep snow and new in 2020, fat tire

gambling, dining and entertainment.

hotels to boutique resorts and refurbished

snow biking on 37 miles of groomed trails

Gamers get recharged in an array of restau-

old-school motels. Regardless of your

at their Cross Country and Snowshoe

rants and buffets, as well as at comedy

choice of food, activity or season, Lake

Center. Sierra-at-Tahoe is a medium-sized

shows and live music events at Harveys

Tahoe South Shore is a spot to satisfy any

family-oriented ski resort (located on

Summer Concert Series and at the Hard

sort of appetite—you’ll only be hungry for

Highway 50 between South Lake Tahoe and

Rock Hotel, MontBleu Casino and the Heav-

another trip.

ZIP LINING at Lake Tahoe, opposite; spa luxury, top; skiing Heavenly, left; fine dining at Hell’s Kitchen, above.

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RACHID DAHNOUN/LAKE TAHOE VISITORS AUTHORITY

GOLD COUNTRY Strike it rich with adventure, history and fine wine

BY JOHN FLINN TOP CITIES Sacramento, Sonora, Placerville, Auburn, Downieville, Sutter Creek, Nevada City, Jackson, Columbia, Murphys, Jamestown, Angels Camp INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Sacramento International Airport (SMF), 13 miles (21 km) from the city center

I

t was a flash in the pan that changed the world. The sparkling nugget that caught the eye of James W. Marshall as he tended a sawmill in the Sierra Nevada

foothills in January 1848 set off a gold rush that drew more the eastern U.S., South America, Europe, even China. They were known as the 49ers.

Overnight, the Gold Rush transformed San Francisco from a sleepy port to a rollicking city and persuaded Congress to put California—wrested from Mexico by war just two years earlier—on the fast track to statehood. Most of the gold was found in a 300-mile belt that extended through the Sierra

POPULATION 650,000

foothills, from Downieville in the north to Coarsegold in the south. Miners called it the “Mother Lode.”

In a state working tirelessly to invent the future, the Gold Country remains the most visible manifestation of its notso-distant past, with towns sporting wood-plank sidewalks, swinging saloon doors, hitching posts and red-brick buildGOLD COUNTRY

ings. (You’ll quickly discover that the best preserved of these belonged to Wells Fargo and, oddly, the Independent Order of Odd Fellows.)

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. PHOTO.UA/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: ERIC BERGER; PIERDELUNE/SHUTTERSTOCK

than 300,000 would-be prospectors the following year from TOURISM WEBSITES gocalaveras.com visit-eldorado.com visitamador.com visitplacer.com gonevadacounty.com visittuolumne.com visitsacramento.com

MUST

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SEE, DO

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2020 Nearly three dozen El Dorado County wineries participate in PASSPORT 2020 - THE GREAT OUT THERE, a blend of wine tasting, live music, food and literary-themed events.

April 17-19 passporteldorado.com Wager on a jumping frog as Mark Twain’s most beloved story is commemorated each year at the CALAVERAS COUNTY FAIR & JUMPING FROG JUBILEE in Angels Camp.

May 14-17 frogtown.org Sutter Creek celebrates the grape harvest with the AMADOR VINTNERS HARVEST WINE FESTIVAL, a.k.a. The Big Crush. See the harvest in action and enjoy wine samples

»

Covered Bridge The longest covered bridge west of the Mississippi stands at Knight’s Ferry, an old-time Mother Lode town so picturesque that scenes for Bonanza and Little House on the Prairie were filmed there. › knightsferry.com

»

Have a Sarsaparilla Step back to the 1800s at Columbia State Historic Park, with its woodplanked sidewalks, historically costumed shopkeepers and strict “horse-drawn vehicles only” policy. › visitcolumbiacalifornia.com

and food pairings at many of the 40+ Amador Vintners’ wineries. Oct. 3-4 suttercreek.org

»

Angels Camp returns to the days of Samuel Clemons for the MARK TWAIN WILD WEST FEST, with period costumes, blacksmithing and saloon dancing girls. Oct. 17 marktwainwildwestfest.com

TOWER BRIDGE in Sacramento, opposite; panning for gold, below; old timers making music in the western gold mining town of Columbia, bottom right.

Appellation Trail Leave the tippling crowds behind as you taste rich, jammy Zinfandels and other wines at dozens of wineries in California’s up-and-coming wine region—Amador, El Dorado and Calaveras counties. › discovercaliforniawines.com

»

Apple Watch Allow the aroma of freshly baked apple pies, fritters, turnovers and strudel to lure you off Highway 50 east of Placerville to a place called Apple Hill. More than 50 growers participate in a celebration of the apple harvest— and of autumn itself—with cider, hayrides, pumpkin patches, hay mazes and other family fun.

It runs from Labor Day to Christmas. › applehill.com

»

California Underground Rappel into the darkness and explore a chamber large enough to hold the Statue of Liberty in Moaning Cavern near the town of Vallecito. › moaningcaverns.com

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Today you can still pan for gold—it’s often said there’s more left in the ground than the original 49ers ever took out—but you can also raft some of California’s frothiest rivers, explore caverns and sample Chardonnay and Syrah in uncrowded, upand-coming wineries.

City & Town Sacramento was the terminus of the Transcontinental Railroad—from there, passengers completed their journey to San Francisco by ferry and barge—and the city still plays a vital role as the jumping-off point for exploring the Gold Country. Since the arrival of the 49ers, the small towns of the Gold Country proper have morphed

DRIVE

through several distinct stages, from

» TOUR NAVIGATING A TOUR through the Gold Country couldn’t be easier: HIGHWAY

49ers—traverses the entire region. It stretches nearly 300 miles through the Sierra foothills, from

DOWNIEVILLE in the north to OAKHURST in the south, linking all the Gold Country’s major towns and sights. Allow at least two days for the journey. Start with a mountain-biking excursion in DOWNIEVILLE, poke around the galleries and antique shops of NEVADA CITY and drop by the site where Marshall and Sutter found those first sparkling nuggets in COLOMA.

SUTTER CREEK, with a bounty of inviting B&Bs and restaurants serving the local wine, is a good place to spend the night. On your second day, explore ANGELS CAMP—perhaps pausing to wager on a frog if it’s jumping season (the third week in May)—try your hand at panning for gold at COLUMBIA STATE HISTORIC PARK and take a ride on the historic steam train in JAMESTOWN’S RAILTOWN 1897 STATE HISTORIC PARK.

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MYLES MCGUINNESS/GOLD COUNTRY VISITORS ASSOCIATION; ERIC BERGER. OPPOSITE: MARC VENEMA/SHUTTERSTOCK

49—named for the original

rough-and-tumble boomtowns, to somnolent hamlets, to destinations for biker rallies, to, finally, genteel venues for weekend getaways sporting comfortable B&Bs, sophisticated restaurants, antique stores and nearby wineries. Among the most popular are Sutter Creek, Nevada City and Murphys. The two largest towns of the Sierra foothills—Sonora and Placerville— offer all this, plus a large selection of motels, restaurants and shops in all price categories.

The Great Outdoors From May to mid October, the American River is California’s top venue for white-

rafters are assured of good conditions. Out-

Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park

water rafting. The river flow is controlled

fitters offer both half-day and full-day trips

or Folsom Lake. In the northern Sierra, the

by releases from upstream reservoirs, so

through Class III whitewater, ending up at

town of Downieville has become a center for mountain biking. Local bike shops offer rentals and shuttles on old mining roads and single tracks from the casual to the technical, including a 15-mile ride with a 4,000-foot descent. Houseboaters flock to vast, sprawling Gold Country reservoirs such as New Melones Lake, Don Pedro Lake and Lake McClure.

THE GOLD COUNTRY has many historic buildings, including this red brick gem in Nevada City, above; dining in the vineyard at Vina Castellano, left; fly-casting for trout, opposite.

INSIDER’S

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The signatures of everyone from Mark Twain to Ulysses S. Grant to Charles Bolles (better known as Black Bart) are on display in the register of the historic MURPHYS

HOTEL, one of the oldest continually operating hotels in California. murphyshotel.com

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CENTRAL VALLEY California’s agricultural heartland

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

T

he rich green strip wedged between the Sierra Nevada Range and the coastal mountains in the center of California is considered by

INTERNATIONAL GATEWAYS Sacramento International Airport (SMF), 80 miles (129 km) from Modesto, 172 miles (277 km) from Fresno

many to be the greatest garden in the world. The Central Valley,

which runs 400 miles north to south, is filled with farms, orchards and vineyards growing everything from almonds to cherries to peaches to

San Francisco International Airport (SFO), 94 miles (151 km) from Modesto, 186 miles (299 km) from Fresno Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), 118 miles (190 km) from Bakersfield

grapes, and supplies as much as 45 percent of the food eaten in the United States. See and taste the state’s bounty when you travel here to discover the soul of these vibrant communities.

California’s Central Valley contains thousands of acres of land under cultivation and small farming communities that seem to have been frozen in

TOURISM WEBSITES visitcentralvalley.com visitfairfieldca.com visitvisalia.com

time. The larger cities here (Modesto, Fresno and Bakersfield) still have a small-town friendliness that encourages visitors to slow down and find out that there’s more going on beyond the farmland. From the quiet, northernmost towns of Orland, Yuba City and Davis to Visalia, Tulare and Maricopa

POPULATION 4,858,000

at the southern end, it’s easy to feel at home and see what some call “the Other California.”

Travelers using Interstate 5 to get through the Central Valley may believe the agricultural region is nothing more than a sleepy little farming area, but don’t speed by and discount the wealth of spectacular scenery, opportunities for outdoor recreation, highlights of California history and funky roadside

CENTRAL VALLEY

diners. The best way to discover the area on a leisurely itinerary is by taking Highway 99, which feels more like a back road. Cities and towns are clustered along the route, giving you a chance to pull off and explore any time you want.

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GARY C. TOGNONI/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: VISIT STOCKTON; JUVENILE TETE-A-TETE/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR

TOP CITIES Modesto, Fresno, Bakersfield, Davis, Stockton, Fairfield, Merced, Visalia, Madera, Vacaville, Manteca, Lodi

DRIVE

» TOUR

MUST

» It may be tempting to cover

SEE, DO

the Central Valley by zooming along on Interstate 5, but instead, take the slower

HIGHWAY 99—often referred to as “California’s Main Street,” and the very same road the fictional Joad family traveled

»

Expansive Wetlands Explore Grizzly Island

in the Suisun Marsh, which makes up more than 10 percent of California’s remaining natural

in The Grapes of Wrath. Start

wetlands.

in oil-town BAKERSFIELD and

›

head north toward FRESNO,

MERCED and MODESTO. As you pass from the San Joaquin Valley into the Sacramento River Delta, take

»

suisunwildlife.org/grizzly.html

Basque in the Desert Get to know Basque

culture in Bakersfield, where there’s a rich history of transplanted sheepherders.

›

noriegahotel.com

a jog over to Interstate 5 to pass to the west of Sacramento and into

»

Yolo, Colusa and Glenn counties at the north end of the great

produce more than 40 percent of the state’s

Central Valley.

premium Zinfandel.

›

»

Wine Tasting Visit wineries in Lodi, which

lodiwine.com

Fresh off the Farm Reap the benefits of

Fresno farms’ bounty at the Vineyard Farmer’s Market, held every Wednesday and Saturday, year-round.

›

»

vineyardfarmersmarket.com

Old Town Wander through the delta town of

Locke, the only U.S. town built exclusively by the Chinese for the Chinese.

›

locketown.com

DOWNTOWN STOCKTON, above; Sandhill Crane Festival, left; rolling green hills of a ranch outside Fresno, opposite.

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EARLY MORNING SUNFLOWERS, right; food and wine tasting at Lodi, below.

Two river valleys—the Sacramento and San Joaquin—dominate much of the region, and the waterways provide opportunities

for

sport

(fishing,

rafting,

waterskiing) and bird migration rest stops, as well as an essential element of farming.

In the hot summer months, the area’s rivers and lakes help residents and tourists alike cool off, and a shady swimming hole is an ideal spot to spend a weekend.

Swing by one of the roadside produce stands for the best souvenirs in the Central Valley. Be sure to enjoy your prizes before you return home, because the edible

City & Town College-town Davis has more bikes per capita than any U.S. city. Modesto and its

INSIDER’S

» TIP

Catch a baseball game at Banner Island, home of the STOCKTON PORTS.

hot rods were the stars of American Graffiti—and auto fans still flock to the valley city. Fresno’s architectural history includes brick warehouses along the Santa Fe railroad tracks and the 1928 Pantages Theatre.

An offshoot of the team credited with inspiring Ernest Lawrence Thayer’s famous “Casey at the Bat” poem, the Ports got their name because

The Great Outdoors

Stockton was California’s only inland port.

A sprawling web of rivers twists through the Central Valley—from the Sacramento to

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ANTHONY MCCAMMON PHOTOGRAPHY; SHIPPEE/SHUTTERSTOCK

treasure of the region is best sampled fresh.

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2020 MARCH MEET March 5-8, Fresno aaafamosoraceway.com ROGUE PERFORMANCE FESTIVAL March 6-14, Fresno fresnoroguefestival.com PICNIC DAY April 18, Davis picnicday.ucdavis.edu ZINFEST WINE FESTIVAL May 1-3, Lodi zinfest.com AMERICAN GRAFFITI CAR SHOW & FESTIVAL June 12-14, Modesto americangraffitifestival.com VILLAGE FEST Sept. 12, Bakersfield bakersfieldvillagefest.com BRUBECK FESTIVAL October, see website for specific dates, Stockton pacific.edu/Brubeck-Institute.html

the San Joaquin to the Feather. The best place to enjoy river life is in the Sacra-

BIG FRESNO FAIR Oct. 7-18, Fresno fresnofair.com SANDHILL CRANE FESTIVAL Nov. 6-8, Lodi cranefestival.com

mento Delta, with lush wetlands among vast orchards. The Sutter Buttes—considered the world’s smallest mountain range—rise above the flat valley at its northernmost point.

Heritage & Culture Agriculture has drawn a diverse group of people here over the years, including migrant workers from Latin America, Dust Bowl-era farmers and entertaining country music masters. Visitors are always welcome to join regional celebrations, from harvest days to Basque festivals to Portuguese festas—complete with bloodless bullfights.

Family Fun Families who love the outdoors and wideopen spaces will find plenty to do in the Central Valley. Escape the summer heat by tubing down the Sacramento River, discover the amazing Forestiere Underground Gardens in Fresno, wander through the historic delta town of Locke, or gawk at restored military aircraft at the Castle Air Museum.

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SHASTA CASCADE A mystical mountain watches over an outdoor adventure paradise

BY JOHN FLINN TOP CITIES Redding, Mount Shasta City, Weaverville, Weed, Chico, Oroville GATEWAY Redding Municipal Airport (RDD) has flights from Los Angeles and San Francisco, and is 9 miles (14 km) from the Redding city center TOURISM WEBSITES visitsiskiyoucounty.com shastacascade.com discoverklamath.com visitredding.com

P

oets, artists, adventurers and New Age mystics are drawn inexorably to snow-capped Mount Shasta, which juts 14,179 feet into the Northern California sky.

It is such an imposing presence that it creates its own weather—most notably the strange-looking lenticular clouds that form on its summit. Some people see in them a jaunty beret, others a UFO mother ship. Some believe the mountain to be a vortex for spiritual activity, and at least two religions have been founded on its flanks.

Mount Shasta is the focal point of one of California’s leastpopulated regions, a land of high-desert tumbleweeds,

POPULATION 274,000

Coast’s two major mountain ranges—the Sierra Nevada and the Cascades—run headlong into each other.

Just to the south of Shasta, Mount Lassen, the southernmost of the Cascade peaks, erupted in 1914-1917, spewing ash as far as 200 miles away. Today, pots of boiling mud and steam vents smelling of rotten eggs attest that this volcano is far SHASTA CASCADE

from dormant.

To the west rise the Trinity Alps and Marble Mountains, relatively unvisited gems that are popular venues for fly fishing

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SISKIYOU COUNTY. OPPOSITE: LARRY HABEGGER

majestic rivers and craggy volcanoes. This is where the West

MUST

»

and horseback trips. To the north, the Kla-

alpine hamlet of Weaverville, gateway to the

math Basin National Wildlife Refuge,

Trinity Alps, was the closest he’s ever come

which extends into southern Oregon, is

to a real-life Shangri-La.

part of the Pacific Flyway: In the fall its

The Great Outdoors

migratory birds.

Mount Shasta is irresistible to climbers; in the spring, summit-seekers are strung out

DO

»

Sundial Bridge Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava’s now-iconic cantilever pedestrian span across the Sacramento River is the centerpiece of the worthwhile Turtle Bay Exploration Park in Redding.

›

skies are darkened by more than a million

SEE,

visitredding.com/sundial-bridge

»

Summit Fever With the help of a local guide, fit beginners can reach the 14,179-foot-high summit of Mount Shasta via its classic Avalanche Gulch route.

City & Town

along its most popular routes like ants on

For travelers, Redding was nothing more

an anthill. To get to the top you need an ice

than a pit stop along Interstate 5 until the

axe, crampons and the skill to use them

opening of the instantly iconic Sundial

safely. But on Mount Lassen, its neighbor to

Bridge across the Sacramento River in 2004.

the south, a well-graded trail runs all the

On the lower flanks of its namesake peak,

way to the 10,457-foot-high summit.

Mount Shasta City sports a main street lined

World-class fly fishing abounds in the

Crystal Persuasion Feel the metaphysical vibes of Mount Shasta City by shopping for a Lemurian Seed Crystal at The Crystal Room. But be warned that they won’t let it go home with you unless it’s a “good energy match.”

with New Age bookstores and shops selling

Trinity Alps, and those willing to walk a

›

crystals said to have mystical powers. No

short distance with their rods are almost

less an authority than James Hilton, author

guaranteed a spot to themselves. On the

of Lost Horizon, once claimed that the pretty

Salmon River, between the Trinity Alps and

SUNSET TROUT FISHING at Manzanita Lake, Lassen Volcanic National Park, below; Mount Shasta, opposite.

› ›

shastaguides.com swsmtns.com

»

crystalsmtshasta.com

»

Men in Tights Stretching 11 miles from the southern Cascades to the Central Valley, Chico’s sylvan Bidwell Park stood in for Sherwood Forest in 1938’s “The Adventures of Robin Hood” staring Errol Flynn.

›

visitcalifornia.com/attraction/bidwell-park

»

Romance of the Rails In Dunsmuir, a classic old railroad town, rail buffs can inspect a 1927 Willamette steam locomotive, dine in a vintage Pullman Club Car and bed down for the night in a genuine caboose at the Railroad Park Resort.

›

rrpark.com

INSIDER’S

» TIP

While hiking on MOUNT SHASTA, keep an eye out for the

LEMURIANS, a race of psychically advanced beings believed by some to live in an enormous cave inside the mountain. They are said to speak excellent English, with a “slight British accent.” lemurianconnection.com

2020 T R AV E L G U I D E TO C A L I FO R N I A 157

DRIVE

Marble Mountains, Otter Bar Lodge (otterbar.com) is one of the West’s premier

» TOUR

whitewater kayaking schools.

The VOLCANIC LEGACY SCENIC

Heritage & Culture

BYWAY is a 500-mile-long route

The Shasta Tribe of Native Americans, a

that winds from LAKE ALMANOR,

band of hunters and fishermen who lived in

south of Mount Lassen, to CRATER

cedar-plank houses with basements, once

LAKE in southern Oregon, with

occupied much of what is now far-northern

access to most of the region’s

California and southern Oregon. Their pop-

major attractions.

ulation dropped rapidly as settlers seized

shastacascade.com/account/

land following the discovery of gold in

volcanic-legacy-scenic-byway

Yreka and Upper Soda Springs in 1850. To the east, at what is now Lava Beds National Monument, the Modoc tribe and the U.S.

BUMPASS HELL in Lassen Volcanic National Park, below; rafting serious rapids on the Trinity River, bottom.

Army fought the last of the Indian wars in California in 1872-73. In the late 1880s, the Central Pacific Railroad spurred development of the timber and tourism industries, and in the 1970s, New Age seekers began filtering into the area, culminating in 1987’s “Harmonic Convergence,” which identified Shasta as one of the world’s “power centers.”

Family Fun The Sundial Bridge is the big draw, but for families, the surrounding Turtle Bay Exploration Center in Redding offers a full day’s worth of activities emphasizing the Sacramento River watershed, including an aquarium, museum, zoo, botanical garden and a recreated logging camp. turtlebay.org

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2020

Eighty wild horses run free on the 5,000-acre WILD HORSE SANCTUARY near Mount Lassen. Guided, two- and three-day rides are offered every weekend from April 25-26 to May 30-31 wildhorsesanctuary.org May is rodeo month in Redding, kicking off with a barbecue and dance May 9 and then four days of classic riding and roping events, plus “mutton bustin’” for the kids, at the REDDING RODEO. May 13-16 reddingrodeo.com

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LARRY HABEGGER; TRINITY COUNTY CVB

Miles of classic cars, an officially designated cruising route and ’50s-style sock hops are the big attractions of Redding’s KOOL APRIL NITES. April 18-26 koolaprilnites.com