2016 Travel Guide to California by MarkintoshDesign

$6.95

DISPLAY UNTIL AUGUST 31, 2016

CONTENTS

GET YOUR BEARINGS 8

CALIFORNIA MAP

EDITOR’S NOTE

DISCOVER California Dreaming

HISTORY A Place for Starting Over

DISCOVER THE GOLDEN STATE 18

CITIES

Surprising Cities

FAMILY FUN

THEME PARKS

CUISINE

WINE COUNTRY

MUSEUMS & ART

PERFORMING ARTS

MOVIES

RAILWAY JOURNEYS Hear My Train a Comin’

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

WINTER SPORTS

SHOPPING

SPAS & WELLNESS Treat Yourself to the Ultimate Escape

Shooting on Location

SUMMER SPORTS

Shopping Paradise

Encore! Encore!

Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco Photo: Luciano Mortula/Shutterstock

A Grand Season for Play

Celebrating the Human Spirit

ON THE COVER

Fun in the Sun

Fruit of the Vine

GOLF Golden Glow to California’s Golf Courses

The Dining Scene

ARCHITECTURE & GARDENS Building in Harmony

Fun for All

STATE & NATIONAL PARKS Stay and Play

Golden State Fun

ROAD TRIPS Get Behind the Wheel and Go

CASINOS High Rolling

Point Vicente Lighthouse, Ranchos Palos Verdes, top

JON BILOUS/SHUTTERSTOCK; RON BERG; MEUNIERD/SHUTTERSTOCK

EXPLORE CALIFORNIA’S TOURISM REGIONS 86

LOS ANGELES COUNTY 92 West Hollywood 94 Redondo Beach 96 LA Waterfront

ORANGE COUNTY 102 Huntington Beach 104 Laguna Beach 106 Costa Mesa

108

SAN DIEGO COUNTY 114 San Diego Zoo & Safari Park

116

SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA 120 San Francisco 122 Berkeley 124 Healdsburg

126

SAN JOSE & SILICON VALLEY 130 Santa Clara

134

MONTEREY BAY & BIG SUR 139 Gilroy 140 Monterey County

142

CENTRAL COAST 146 Ventura 148 Pismo Beach

150

NORTH COAST

155

SHASTA CASCADE

160

HIGH SIERRA 164 Lake Tahoe South Shore

168

GOLD COUNTRY

172

CENTRAL VALLEY

176

DESERTS

180

INLAND EMPIRE

FIND USEFUL INFORMATION 183

RESOURCES

GENERAL INFORMATION CALIFORNIA WELCOME CENTERS QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE TO TRAVEL CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAUS HOLIDAYS CLIMATE/TEMPERATURES MEDICAL CARE & TRAVEL INSURANCE DRIVING REGULATIONS RESOURCES FOR THE DISABLED AIR DISTANCES BETWEEN SELECTED CITIES DRIVING DISTANCES NATIONAL PARKS & HISTORIC SITES HOTELS, RESORTS & INNS AIRPORTS TRANSPORTATION CAR & RV RENTALS ART MUSEUMS THEME PARKS

15 201 6

T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

199

Tulelake

Dorris

Fort Dick

Willow Ranch

Klamath R.

Crescent City

Del Norte

139

Yreka

Clear Creek

Montague Bray

Lake City

Modoc

Siskiyou

Hackamore

Klamath

299 299

Etna

Orleans

Weed Mount Shasta

Callahan

Orick

Alturas

Dunsmuir

Likely

Cecilville

SHASTA CASCADE

Nubieber 299

Sacramento R.

Trinidad Lamoine

Eureka

139

Blue Lake Arcata

Trinity

299

Hat Creek

Humboldt

Lassen

Weaverville

Big Bar

Shasta Lake

395

Shasta

Fortuna

Redding

Ferndale 3

Rio Dell

273

Susanville

Anderson Platina

Mineral

Blocksburg

Honeydew

Westwood

Eel R.

Milford

Red Bluff

Taylorsville

Te h a m a

Whitethorn

Quincy

Corning Paskenta

Leggett

NORTH COAST

Termo

Plumas

101

Portola Paradise

Orland

Dos Rios

Chico

Loyalton 1

Glenn

Biggs

Willits

89 49

Colusa 20

128

Yu b a

Sutter

Marysville

Yuba City ento Sacram

253

Lakeport

113

Yo l o

Calistoga

Sebastopol

Saint Helena

Rohnert Park

SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA

Davis

Napa

Santa Rosa

San Rafael

Berkeley

San Francisco

Lathrop

Livermore

Modesto

Alameda

Waterford

Stanislaus

132

140

Mammoth Lakes

Mariposa

Turlock

Mariposa

Madera

Patterson 140

Livingston

Santa Clara San Jose 1

Atwater

Newman

Merced

Bishop Coarsegold

San Mateo

Los Gatos

Merced

Morgan Hill Santa Cruz

120

Mono

Yosemite Village

Oakdale Riverbank

Sunnyvale

SAN JOSE & SILICON VALLEY

Lee Vining 120

120

Ripon

Fremont

Milpitas

Tuolumne City

Manteca 99

Hayward

San Mateo Redwood City

167

Sonora

San Joaquin

Contra Costa

Bridgeport Tuolumne

Angels City

Stockton

Alameda

Daly City

395

Calaveras

San Andreas

Concord

Oakland

San Francisco

182 108

Jackson

Lodi

Rio Vista

Martinez

Galt

Solano

Vallejo

HIGH SIERRA

Alpine

Sutter Creek

Ione

160

Fairfield 37

Coleville Amador

Sacramento

Napa

Novato

Markleeville 88

Vacaville

Marin

Placerville

Sacramento

Dixon

Petaluma

Folsom

Woodland Windsor

El Dorado

Rocklin

Roseville

Sonoma

South Lake Tahoe

Auburn

Lincoln

Cloverdale

Lake Tahoe

Colfax

Wheatland

Clearlake

Placer

128

Point Arena

Nevada City Grass Valley

Colusa

Williams

Truckee

Live Oak

Lake

Ukiah

Elk

Nevada

Gridley

Mendocino

Sierra

Downieville

Butte

Willows

Oroville

Fort Bragg

Santa Clara

Chowchilla

Fresno

Dos Palos

Gilroy

Santa Cruz Watsonville

Trimmer 41

Fresno

Mendota San Benito

Kings

Owenyo

Parlier

245

Selma

198

Death Valley

Woodlake Lemoore

King City

136

Dinuba

145

Greenfield Big Sur

190

Visalia

Hanford 43

198

Cartago Exeter

Tulare

Huron

Inyo

Reedley

Kingsburg

Soledad

Sanger

San Joaquin

DESERTS

Independence

Clovis

180

Gonzales

MONTEREY BAY & BIG SUR

Firebaugh

Seaside

395

Madera 33

Hollister

Salinas

Marina

Monterey

168

Lakeshore 168

Los Banos 152

Capitola

THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA has 58 counties, whose boundaries are shown on this map. The state’s tourism regions sometimes spill over several counties and in some places jump borders to include portions of counties. The colored sections on the map show where these regions are.

GOLD COUNTRY

208

190

Tulare

Lindsay

127

Haiwee

Coalinga

198

Monterey

Corcoran

Porterville

178

Johnsondale

Avenal

101

Shoshone

Kings

Tecopa Delano

5 1 46

Mountain Mesa

Atascadero 41

Shafter Buttonwillow

San Luis Obispo

Ke 99

178

Bakersfield

Kern

119

Cima

Arvin

227

Arroyo Grande

California City

Tehachapi

Taft Maricopa

Afton

Santa Maria

166

Guadalupe

Boron

Santa Barbara

Barstow

San Bernardino

Needles

14 138

Helendale

Lancaster

Lake Hughes

Lompoc

Ludlow

Santa Barbara

Lake Havasu

138

Hesperia

Simi Valley

Oxnard Agoura Hills

Glendale

Chubbuck

247

Big Bear Lake

La Canada Flintridge

Thousand Oaks 1

Victorville

Los Angeles

Santa Clarita

118

San Buenaventura

Apple Valley

Palmdale Fillmore

Santa Paula

Essex

Bagdad

Pasadena

Fontana

Los Angeles

o R.

Buellton

Adelanto

Ve n t u r a

247

Solvang

Frazier Park

101

CENTRAL COAST

C a l i f o r n i a

Saltdale

San Luis Obispo Grover Beach

Ridgecrest

rn R.

orad

Morro Bay

127

178 65

Wasco

Yucca Valley

San Bernardino

Col

El Paso de Robles

CENTRAL VALLEY

Searles Valley

McFarland

San Simeon

Riverside

Twentynine Palms

Rice

Desert Hot Springs 177

LOS ANGELES COUNTY

Palos Verdes Estates

Torrance

Anaheim Santa Ana

Long Beach Huntington Beach

Moreno Valley

Corona

Palm Springs

Hemet

Irvine

Cathedral City Palm Desert

Lake Elsinore

Orange

Riverside

Indio

Desert Center 10

Costa Mesa

Blythe

Laguna Niguel

371

Oasis 79

Carlsbad

Salton Sea

Calipatria

Escondido

Encinitas

Poway

Westmorland 79

San Diego Coronado

INSIDER’S

» TIP

8 2 016

Brawley

Imperial

Santee

SAN DIEGO COUNTY

Imperial

San Diego

San Marcos

111

Borrego Springs

Vista

Oceanside

El Centro

El Cajon Lemon Grove

Chula Vista

Imperial Reservoir

Holtville

Calexico

Imperial Beach

INLAND EMPIRE

BEST BEACHSIDE DINING Innumerable fine watering holes dot California’s famous coastal Highway 1, but take a diversion when you reach San Francisco to head to the Beach Chalet on the Great Highway at Ocean Beach. One of the city’s first brewpubs, the restaurant sits atop a San Francisco history museum with WPA murals from the 1930s on the walls, is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week and has a menu ranging from burgers to seafood to prime rib. In addition, out back facing Golden Gate Park is sister restaurant the Park Chalet. With the Pacific or the park as your options, you can’t go wrong.

T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

BEACHCHALET.COM

Avalon

ORANGE COUNTY

EDITOR’S NOTE

2016 TRAVEL GUIDE TO

CALIFORNIA Larry Habegger

ART DIRECTOR WRITERS

—L A R RY H A B EG G E R , Editor

T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

EDITOR EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Sometimes when I look out over San Francisco Bay from my perch on Telegraph Hill, I forget that the sweeping Pacific Ocean is at my back, just a few miles away over the hilly, city-covered terrain. It can be like that in our busy lives, when we focus so much on the task at hand that we forget the grand scope of our time here on this earth. Luckily for me, it doesn’t take a lot to regain my bearings. I can make my way out to Ocean Beach to contemplate infinity, watch the waves wash in at the nearby ruins of the Sutro Baths, take a hike in what feels like wilderness in the city at Lands End, a woodsy, mile-and-a-half trail with spectacular views of the sea from the cliffs at every turn. If I venture a little farther I can cross the Golden Gate Bridge to the Marin Headlands, where dozens of miles of trails await with equally breathtaking views. In less than 30 minutes from my house in the busy city I can be reviving my spirits in the open outdoors. Truly, you don’t have to go far to rejuvenate yourself here. California is a big state, but this notion that you don’t have to go far holds true statewide. If your pleasure is wine tasting, you’ll find it almost everywhere. Fine dining? Same story. Surfing, kayaking, swimming, boogie boarding, paddle boarding? There are 840 miles of coastline here with some of the world’s best beaches. Opera, art, theater, music, film, sports? You name it, it’s all here, and easy to find. Does escaping into truly magnificent landscape away from the cities appeal to you? That’s a breeze. We have easy access to the ancient natural world of the giant sequoias, Death Valley National Park, Lake Tahoe and Yosemite National Park, the stunning volcanic peak of Mount Shasta. We also have access to all that’s new, in technology, architecture, design, resorts and spas. How about golf? You won’t find a better collection of golf courses anywhere. When it’s time to rejuvenate, just get yourself to California. Once here, you’ll quickly learn that you don’t have to go far to find what restores your energy and feeds your soul. And makes you happy, of course. In these pages we help you get ready, with profiles of the state’s main tourism regions, essays on history, cuisine, museums, theme parks and many other topics, plus resource pages with information on visitors bureaus, driving distances, average temperatures, California Welcome Centers and much more. As you make your plans for a trip to the Golden State, you’ll have a lot to look forward to. California offers a profound richness of experience all within easy reach, and once you’re here, I’m sure you’ll quickly regain your bearings.

10 2 01 6

Joseph P. Turkel

CIRCULATION MANAGER DIRECTOR OF FINANCE ACCOUNT MANAGERS

CALIFORNIA OFFICE

Judi Scharf Mark Tzerelshtein David Armstrong Christopher P. Baker Susan Brady (Resources) Laura Del Rosso Christine Delsol Bill Fink John Flinn Don George Marcy Gordon Jeff Greenwald Lenore Greiner Robert Kaufman Maribeth Mellin Laura Ness Jill K. Robinson Michael Shapiro Bonnie Smetts Lavinia Spalding Matt Villano Laurie Weed Jacqueline Yau Julia Wall

Gloria Mungo Collier C. Granberry Dexter Taylor Joe Turkel 1288 Columbus Ave., Suite 292 San Francisco, CA 94133 TEL: 1-888-700-4464 • FAX: 416-497-0871 E-MAIL: tigc@rogers.com californiatravelguide.travel The Travel Guide to California is published by Globelite Travel Marketing Inc., a leading lifestyle media company and publisher of The Travel Guides to Canada, The Travel Guide to Florida, The Travel Guide to California, and Dreamscapes Travel and Lifestyle Magazine.

CANADIAN OFFICE

Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. 3 Bluffwood Drive Toronto, Ontario M2H 3L4 TEL: 416-497-5353, 1-888-700-4464 FAX: 416-497-0871 E-MAIL: tigc@rogers.com californiatravelguide.travel No part of this publication can be reproduced or duplicated without the written permission of Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. The opinions in this magazine are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the views of Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. Publications Mail Agreement 40047932. Contents © copyright 2016 Printed in Canada ISSN 1926-304X (Print) ISSN 1927-7245 (Online)

ÉRNE Mc CABE

You Don’t Have to Go Far

PRESIDENT & GROUP PUBLISHER

DISCOVER BY DON GEORGE

California Dreaming The Golden State is a special place with a world’s worth of experiences to be savored

PACIFIC OCEAN The world’s largest ocean, the fabled Paciﬁc, embraces California’s entire western boundary. It’s a place to dream,

THE SEDUCTIVE STATE OF CALIFORNIA

For boaters, birders and fishermen,

to ponder life’s possibilities and endless

is large in every sense of the word. It’s the

there’s Lake Shasta, home to an abundance

mysteries, and a place to play. Surfers

most populous state in the U.S. and the third

of fish and fowl. For whitewater fans, more

ride the sea’s prodigious waves; sailors

largest in terms of geographical size. Its

than a dozen rivers, including the mighty

ply her waters; boogie boarders and

economy ranks eighth in the entire world.

American

body surfers splash in her surf;

When it comes to visitor attractions, Cali-

thrilling rides. Kayakers and canoers find

kayakers explore her coves and shore

fornia presents travelers with as wide a range

paradise in Point Reyes National Seashore

breaks; children of all ages wade in her

of riches as many countries. Whether you’re

in the north and watery wonders at Morro

froth and comb her beaches. Life

passionate about natural activities, cultural

Bay on the central coast.

happens on the edge of the Paciﬁc,

pursuits or dining and wining, the Golden

where the sun shines, and sets in

State has diverse delights to entice you.

and

Sacramento,

provide

In the southern part of the state, visitors savor the sere splendors of the Mojave

Outdoor Adventurer

in North America, 282 feet below sea level.

If you’re a nature lover and active adven-

If tide pooling tempts you, Shaw’s Cove

turer, you’ll be dazzled by the state’s

tide pools in the Laguna Beach State

spectacular spectrum. On the western edge

Marine Reserve and the Terranea tide

there’s the Pacific Ocean, the largest body

pools in the Point Vicente State Marine

of water in the world, perfect for surfing,

Conservation Area in Rancho Palos Verdes

sailing and swimming. In the east there are

showcase sea anemones, crabs, urchins,

the magnificent mountains of the Sierra

sea slugs, sea stars and more. The five

Nevada, a haven for skiers and snow-

islands of Channel Islands National Park,

boarders in winter and hikers and

accessible only by boat or plane from Ven-

bicyclists in summer. This region is home

tura and Oxnard, provide a peaceful,

to Mount Whitney, the tallest mountain in

pristine home for more than 2,000 plant

the “Lower 48” and a mecca for climbers,

and animal species, including 145 found

topping off at 14,505 feet. Among Cali-

nowhere else on the planet.

fornia’s most moving experiences are

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

walking through the natural cathedral of

Cultural Connoisseur

Muir Woods and camping in the granite

If you love culture, you’ll find a treasure

grandeur of Yosemite National Park.

trove of activities in the Golden State, from

WELCOMIA/SHUTTERSTOCK

Desert and Death Valley, the lowest point

ethereal colors.

museum and art gallery exhibitions to

From the Siskiyou County Museum in

even offer travelers the chance to stay and

shops showcasing contemporary handi-

Yreka to the San Diego Museum of Art,

work, which reveals from the inside the rites

crafts and timeworn antiques, and from

museums and galleries celebrating his-

and rhythms of modern farm life.

performances of theater, dance and music

tory, human endeavor and artistic heritage

California is the birthplace of California

to displays at aquariums and hands-on

abound throughout the state. Creative

cuisine, of course, a culinary revolution

education centers.

exploring will yield access to small-scale

spearheaded by Berkeley’s Alice Waters—

For music, the world-class concert halls of

museums that specialize in everything

whose Chez Panisse is still serving

Los Angeles and San Francisco are well-

from comics and cable cars to surfing and

extraordinary food 45 years after it opened.

known, but equally appealing are smaller

sewing. Other outstanding educational

That revolution has spawned numerous

sites such as the Redlands Bowl in the Inland

institutions that focus on interactive

other channels of creative culinary freshness

Empire city of Redlands, where an elegant

experiences include the Monterey Bay

and fusion, blending Asian, European and

amphitheater spotlights California’s oldest

Aquarium, the California Academy of Sci-

Latin American ingredients and traditions,

free concert series, presenting everything

ences and the Exploratorium.

which are showcased throughout the state. As Alice Waters and her followers focused

from classical music to bluegrass bands each summer, or the Joan and Sanford I. Weill Hall

Food Aficionado

attention on local purveyors, food-related

on the California State University Sonoma

For food aficionados, California is a wonder-

opportunities for travelers expanded. One

campus, where warm-weather concert-goers

land of tastes, textures and innovative

result today is the California Cheese Trail,

can spread a blanket on the terraced lawn for

culinary creations. One of the most

which connects artisanal cheese makers in

an alfresco music fest.

delightful and enlightening experiences is

Sonoma County, from Point Reyes and Bodega to Santa Rosa and Sonoma.

A lively variety of performances,

visiting a farmers market, where fresh-

including ballet, theater, variety shows,

from-the-farm produce will be on delicious

Wine trails have long drawn travelers to

comedy and even onstage conversations,

display and fresh-from-the-field farmers

California, but these have expanded as

are presented at Oakland’s ornately Art

will be happy to offer samples and stories.

well in recent years. In addition to world-

Deco Paramount Theater. Another multi-

Farmers markets can now be found

renowned regions such as Napa and

faceted venue lovingly restored to its

throughout the state. As a further outgrowth

Sonoma, up-and-coming areas that offer

former glory is Fresno’s Warnors Center for

of the popularity of these markets, more and

their own winery routes include Liver-

the Performing Arts, listed on the National

more farms are now offering visitors the

more, Paso Robles, Madera and Temecula.

opportunity to pay to pick their own straw-

Whatever interest has drawn you to Cal-

guished by a pipe organ that replicates the

berries, peaches or plums and savor the

ifornia, you’ll find almost infinite reasons

sound of a full orchestra.

sweetness of just-plucked fruit. Some farms

to be seduced and stay.

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HISTORY

BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

A Place for Starting Over

MISSION BASILICA SAN DIEGO DE ALCALÁ The ﬁrst of the 21 California missions, Mission San Diego de Alcalá was founded in 1769 by Father Junipero Serra, the Franciscan friar who was canonized in 2015 by Pope Francis. Today, the mission remains an active parish church and cultural center for people of all faiths. Among other things, California’s ﬁrst olives were cultivated here.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

The Spanish Franciscan friar blessing an

California is the “America” of America.

adobe church at Mission Basilica San Diego

This was so even in pre-history, when the

de Alcalá in 1769; the Chilean miner trying

first migrants from Asia crossed the land

his luck panning for gold in a cold Sierra

bridge between Siberia and Alaska, hung a

cataract in 1849; the Chinese laborer

right, walked southward, found pastures of

crossing the heaving Pacific to work on the

plenty, rich marine life and heart-stop-

transcontinental railroad in 1869; the

pingly beautiful mountains and either

African American leaving the South to

decided to keep walking or stop right

build warships on the Oakland waterfront

where they were.

in 1942; the Haight-Ashbury hippie with

The place wasn’t called California then,

her wakeful dreaming in San Francisco’s

of course. That came later, the name taken

Summer of Love in 1967; the Indian engi-

from a 16th-century Spanish novel and used

neer launching a high-tech startup in Palo

by explorers, soldiers and missionaries,

Alto in 2016, all have something in

who were themselves starting over in the

common: starting over.

New World. The Spanish built 21 Roman

The United States is said to be a place

Catholic missions, from San Diego in the

where the world comes to begin again—to

south to Sonoma in the north, from 1769 to

reinvent itself, in the current coinage. If so,

1823. In converting native communities to

NATALIA BRATSLAVSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: MEUNIERD/SHUTTERSTOCK; RADOSLAW LECYK/SHUTTERSTOCK; BLUEBEAT76/SHUTTERSTOCK; MEUNIERD/SHUTTERSTOCK

Innovation and starting fresh are embedded in California’s cultural DNA

3000 BC: WORLD'S OLDEST TREES

THE PLANET’S OLDEST LIVING TREES, bristlecone pines, are found at high elevations in eastern California’s rugged Inyo National Forest. Long thought to be the oldest individual tree, the aptly named bristlecone pine Methuselah, is reckoned to be 4,800 years old. In 2012, another bristlecone pine was found that is even older—nearly 5,100 years old.

Christianity, the newcomers overwhelmed native cultures. Of necessity, the Native Americans started over in a bewildering new world. In 1821, Mexico, with its remote northernmost province, Alta California, wrenched itself free of the Spanish Empire. In 1833, the missions were secularized by the Mexican government and abandoned. Their buildings moldered, their pioneering vineyards and olive groves were eventually overgrown and forgotten. Not until the 20th century were the missions restored and revived. Many flourish today as redoubts of history and contemporary worship, handsome, evocative reminders of the first major European presence.

The Gold Rush Alta California grew slowly in its isolation. That changed on January 24, 1848, with the discovery

THE DOLORES DEL RIO mural on Hollywood Boulevard depicts the movie star from the 1920s and 1930s, above; she was one of the most important female ﬁgures of the Golden Age of Mexican cinema; buildings at the ghost town of Bodie State Park, right; radio station inside Alcatraz Penitentiary and Alcatraz Island in San Francisco, below.

of gold on the American River. The California Gold Rush, beginning in earnest in 1849, gave fortune-seekers a second—some said a last—chance to make good. Half-a-million newcomers—many from Europe, Asia, Latin America and Africa— globalized California in a hurry. The Mexican descendants of Spanish settlers—the Californios, with their sprawling ranchos and lives attuned to the slow turning of the seasons—were swept aside, left to start over. Many 49ers stayed on and found another kind of gold: richly productive new lives in a place where beginning afresh—personally, financially, even spiritually—was already a common rite of passage. In 1850, pried loose by the U.S. victory in the Mexican War and accelerated by the Gold Rush, California became the 31st state of the United States. New Californians brought the new Golden State into being, plowing its fields, founding its great universities, building its cities.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

HISTORY California’s lustrous reputation was tarnished on the morning of April 18, 1906,

begin anew, lent the movies an Old World artistic sensibility.

when a massive earthquake rocked

California’s story since World War II has

Northern California and leveled much of

featured growth and more growth. Com-

San Francisco; what the rolling, rumbling

bined with in-country migration, global

ground didn’t knock down, the ensuing

immigration made California the most

firestorm burned down. Some 3,000 people

populous state in the Union in 1962.

died. Now, it was San Francisco’s turn to start over. San Francisco dramatized its

A Center for Change

recovery, and celebrated the new Panama

From the 1960s on, California has been, in

Canal linking the Atlantic and the Pacific,

a positive sense, the most disruptive state

with the splendidly showy Panama-Pacific

in the nation. Student political activism,

International Exposition of 1915.

the hip counter-culture and early awaken-

WHOLE EARTH CATALOG, above; the Hollywood sign on Mount Lee in the Hollywood Hills area of Los Angeles, below.

ings of the New Age movement found

The Rise of Hollywood

fertile ground in California. The in-season,

Just two years after that optimistic dis-

sustainable, slow-food movement arguably

play, the nation plunged into World War I.

took root fastest in California. American

After the war ended in 1918, still more

environmentalism in large part began in

migrants rushed to California. In 1920,

California, when Scottish immigrant John

Los Angeles (and much later San Diego

Muir founded the Sierra Club in San Fran-

and San Jose) surged past San Francisco in

cisco back in 1892 and took President

population. The orange groves and dusty

Theodore Roosevelt camping amid the nat-

byways of old Los Angeles began mor-

ural wonders of Yosemite Valley in 1903.

phing into “LA”—more specifically, and more mythically, “Hollywood.”

the whole planet. In the present decade, Sil-

streamed to Los Angeles, growing a quiet

icon Valley reached northward, dramatically

cottage industry of silent motion pictures

transforming the economy and even the cul-

into a technologically advanced business.

ture of San Francisco. The high-technology

Stars were born in a place that came to be

world has enshrined risk-taking, innova-

called “the dream factory.” Not a few of the

tion, learning from failure and—you

Dust Bowl migrants who left the drought-

guessed it—starting over. Quoting another

stricken Midwest for California in the

California innovation, the 1960s Whole Earth

1930s got their first impressions of their

Catalog, Apple’s Steve Jobs urged Stanford

new home from the dream-weavers of

University graduates in a commencement

Hollywood. In the 1940s, creative people

speech in 2005 to “stay hungry, stay foolish.”

Thomas Mann, fleeing fascism and war to

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joined Hollywood as a creative lodestar for

Actors, writers, directors and producers

from Europe such as Billy Wilder and

1914: FORTUNE COOKIES

From the 1980s on, Silicon Valley has

Californians, across centuries and cultures, always have.

THE FORTUNE COOKIE, commonly believed to come from China, actually comes from California. While there are competing creation myths, the most widely accepted version credits the invention of the fortune cookie to Japanese American landscape designer Makoto Hagiwawa. He created the sweet treat with a written fortune tucked inside while working at San Francisco’s Japanese Tea Garden, still a favorite of visitors and locals, in Golden Gate Park, back in 1914.

TURTIX/SHUTTERSTOCK

symbol of California innovation,

CITIES

BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

Surprising Cities

California’s golden cities—Los Angeles,

Dah Parade. Some 800 restored early 20th-

San Francisco, San Diego—are celebrated

century wooden bungalows, clustered in

around the world, and rightly so. But the

the Bungalow Heaven Historic District,

PASADENA

Golden State has an engaging range of

give Pasadena a signature architectural

One of Los Angeles County’s more vibrant cities, Pasadena was a tourist destination drawing visitors from the eastern U.S. as far back as the 1880s. In 1886, the ﬁrst of many great hotels here, the Raymond, was built atop Bacon Hill, which was later renamed Raymond Hill when the hotel was completed.

things to see and do in less-well-known

look. Shopping and dining are abundant

locales, as well. In cities ranging in size

along pedestrian-friendly South Lake

from 11,000 inhabitants to 470,000, a sur-

Avenue, in the Playhouse District and in

prising, eclectic menu of food and drink,

revived, 22-block Old Pasadena. The

art and architecture, history and sports is

Huntington combines a distinguished

available to visitors.

library complete with a Gutenberg Bible, centuries of priceless fine-art pieces and

PASADENA: Rose Bowl & Bungalows

extensive and beautiful botanical gar-

Located 10 miles northeast of Los Angeles

dens all in one place.

at the foot of the imposing San Gabriel

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Mountains, this pretty city of 140,000 is

WEST HOLLYWOOD: Creative City

best-known for the Granddaddy of ’em

West Hollywood, population 35,000, pro-

All: the annual Rose Bowl football game,

vides style and spark to sprawling Greater

its ever-popular Tournament of Roses

Los Angeles well out of proportion to its

Parade and delightful parody the Doo-

size. Vibrant “WeHo,’’ bounded on the east

JAMIE PHAM. OPPOSITE: RYAN FORBES/AVABLU; LONG BEACH CVB

California’s smaller towns have plenty of urban delights

DESIGN DISTRICT, left, and Sunset Boulevard in West Hollywood, below; Long Beach skyline, bottom.

by Hollywood and the west by Beverly Hills,

Halloween Carnival is a huge and hugely

has been permanently anchored there.

is Greater LA’s gay village, with about one-

popular party. An influx of Russian Jews

Now a hotel and meetings venue, the

third of residents identifying as lesbian,

late last century from the disintegrating

Queen Mary is linked on-land by the Pass-

gay, bisexual or transgender (LGBT). Within

Soviet Union adds to West Hollywood’s cos-

port shuttle bus to the Aquarium of the

its tightly packed 1.9 square miles is

mopolitan character.

Pacific, Long Beach Convention and Entertainment Center and other sites. The arts

western Sunset Boulevard, aka the Sunset Strip, with its famous music venues,

LONG BEACH: As Seen in the Movies

are served by the Museum of Latin Amer-

among them the Troubadour, Viper Room

A frequent stand-in for national and global

ican Art, the Long Beach Playhouse and a

and Whisky a Go Go. The city also boasts

locations in television, video and film

lively street-art scene. Aquatic sports and

hip hotels such as the Mondrian, Andaz

shoots, Long Beach is very much itself.

beach volleyball thrive in the sunny cli-

and the Sunset Marquis. Classic retro Art

Boasting 5.5 miles of sandy beaches, the

mate. Moreover, a wide range of dining

Deco and Spanish Revival apartment build-

city of 470,000 some 20 miles southwest

options abounds, thanks to the city’s multi-

ings dot swathes of the city, while western

of downtown Los Angeles is home to a

ethnic make-up, which embraces white

Melrose Avenue is abuzz with restaurants,

major ocean cargo port and an outpost of

and black residents, Hispanics, Pacific

shops, antique and furniture stores and the

aircraft manufacturer Boeing. Since 1967,

Islanders, and Asians, notably Cambo-

nearby Pacific Design Center. The annual

the 1930s Art Deco ocean liner Queen Mary

dians and Filipinos.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

CITIES LA JOLLA CLIFFS, below; statue of Father Junipero Serra, downtown Ventura, right; Sundial bridge at Turtle Bay, Redding, opposite top; Sebastiani Theatre in Sonoma, opposite bottom.

LA JOLLA: Mediterranean Haven

VENTURA: Classic Beach Town

year-round to splendid, rugged off-shore

La Jolla is an engaging city-within-a-city.

Under-the-radar Ventura city, the county

isles, churning past leaping dolphins and

The community of 43,000 on the coast 15

seat of agricultural Ventura County, is a

spouting migratory whales.

miles north of downtown San Diego is

classic Southern California beach town,

actually part of San Diego. Yet the affluent

with surprising twists. Located a few min-

BERKELEY: The Arts and More

enclave, known for beach life, dining,

utes south of Santa Barbara and an hour’s

Long famed for its commitment to brainiac

shopping and the scientific prowess of the

drive north of Los Angeles, the Ventura

inquiry, Berkeley, on the eastern shores of San

Scripps Institution of Oceanography, the

Beach section is popular with surfers,

Francisco Bay, doubles as a richly diverse

Salk Institute and others, has its own zip

paddle boarders, joggers, sailors and sun-

travel destination. The college town of

code, and physical mail addressed to “La

worshippers. Walking distance from the

120,000 boasts unique shops and restaurants

Jolla” is routinely delivered. Downtown La

sands, Ventura city’s fast-reviving down-

along Fourth Street in west Berkeley, and

Jolla along Prospect Avenue is a nexus of

town boasts a mix of restaurants, shops and

shopping, theater, music and movie-going

upscale shopping. Torrey Pines State

wine bars along Main Street, including the

downtown on and off south Shattuck Avenue.

Reserve is a rugged, 2,000-acre nature pre-

massive, multi-level restaurant and music

The expansive University of California

serve with 8 miles of trails. Torrey Pines

venue Watermark. The Beaux-Arts 1912 City

campus includes first-rate entertainment

Golf Course, with high-end Torrey Pines

Hall is an impressive sight on its downtown

venues and athletic contests ranging from

Lodge, is home every January to the PGA

hilltop; Erle Stanley Gardener, creator of the

intercollegiate football and basketball to pop-

event the Farmers Insurance Open. This

fictional courtroom wizard Perry Mason,

ular niche sports such as men’s and women’s

seaside community, with a mild, year-

practiced law just down the hill. The out-

rugby, played at jewel box Witter Field. The

round Mediterranean climate, is also a

door apparel company Patagonia showcases

Gourmet Ghetto, with classic California-

haven for sunbathing, surfing and swim-

its world headquarters store in a renovated

American restaurant Chez Panisse, the

ming.

popular

heritage building on West Santa Clara Street.

original 1966 Peet’s Coffee & Tea shop and

clothing-optional destination. The arts are

At the city’s bustling marina, the Channel

many more, is arrayed on and around north

alive here, too, especially at the renowned

Islands National Park visitor center

Shattuck Avenue. The Elmwood neighbor-

La Jolla Playhouse, on the University of Cal-

dispenses useful information. Park Conces-

hood along College Avenue offers visitors and

ifornia San Diego campus.

sionaire Island Packers operates ferry runs

locals a relaxed village ambience.

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Black’s

Beach

T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

SONOMA: More than Wine Laid out around a traditional Mexican plaza flanked with heritage buildings, this city of 11,000, an hour north of San Francisco, grew up around Mission San Francisco Solano. The northernmost and last of the Roman Catholic missions built by Franciscan friars along the north-south spine of California, the 1823 adobe and its recently revived historic olive groves is still a focal point of spiritual and cultural

REDDING: Recreation Center

anchored by the stunning 2004 Sundial

life. Sonoma was home to the 25-day Bear

Created by the timber and mining indus-

Bridge, a contemporary, cantilivered beauty

Flag Revolt and “Republic of California” of

tries, the city of 92,000 in the northern

for walkers and cyclists designed by star

1846, an American rising against Mexican

reaches of the state has diversified its

Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava. With

authorities that led to California statehood

economy and culture in recent years to

more than 300 days of sunshine a year,

in 1850. The plaza is flanked with mid 19th-

emerge as a prime travel and tourism des-

Redding is foremost an outdoor recreation

century buildings that now comprise

tination. Located on Interstate 5 and the

spot, but indoor performances are staged

Sonoma State Historic Park. Contemporary

Sacramento River south of the Oregon state

year-round in the beautifully restored Cas-

Sonoma is a family-friendly getaway and

line, Redding takes advantage of its natural

cade Theatre, a 997-seat city landmark built

jumping-off point to Sonoma Valley

wonders. Nearby attractions include

in Art Deco style in 1935.

wineries and the Sonoma County coast. A

Mount Shasta and Mount Lassen, Mount

variety of appealing restaurants and one-

Lassen Volcanic National Park and Turtle

of-a-kind shops thrive on and near the

Bay Exploration Park. Together with the

plaza, as does the 1933 Sebastiani Theatre

river, these prime natural features offer a

cinema. The Fairmont Sonoma Mission

wide range of hiking, biking, paddling and

Inn & Spa is a popular resort hotel.

fishing. Turtle Bay Exploration Park is

YOUR » FIND CITY FUN

SHASTA COUNTY; REBECCA GOSSELIN. OPPOSITE: FUTUREGALORE/SHUTTERSTOCK; HECTOR VARGAS

Pasadena visitpasadena.com, 800-307-7977 West Hollywood visitwesthollywood.com, 800-368-6020 Long Beach visitlongbeach.com, 562-436-3645 La Jolla sandiego.org, 619-232-3101 Ventura visitventuraca.com, 800-648-2075 Berkeley visitberkeley.com, 800-847.4823 Sonoma sonomavalley.com, 866-996-1090 sonomacounty.com, 800-576-6662 Redding visitredding.com, 800-874-7562

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FAMILY FUN

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

Golden State Fun Family adventures, big and small

CALIFORNIA’S BEACHES Up and down the state, the sea draws people of all ages to play in its surf, paddle in its foam and, of course, frolic on its sandy beaches. From the sunny, warm-water stretches of Southern California to the fog-shrouded, cooler climes of the north, the beaches are a natural playground for all manner of fun, whether organized volleyball, sandcastle competitions or simply digging with a plastic shovel and bucket. Bring the kids!

On a map, California looks huge, but

less wild wonders, and more than 840

with so much fun for families around

miles of coastline all combine to give visi-

every corner, the state needs all that space

tors and locals alike a vast selection of

to ensure that there’s something for

places to go outside and play. Start with

everyone—no matter how you define

Yosemite National Park, the jewel of the

“fun.” Choose from theme parks for fan-

High Sierra. Famous for waterfalls,

tasy and wild fun, natural wonders for

camping, wildlife and granite monoliths,

pure awe and an escape from civilization,

the park is accessible for light experiences

historical spots for discovery and educa-

as well as serious outdoor activities. Junior

tion, and Golden-State landmarks for that

Ranger programs are available for eager

special California sparkle. String it all

young naturalists.

together, and it’s easy to find that magical

From Mount Tamalpais State Park near

combination to fit your family’s require-

San Francisco Bay to the giant Anza-Bor-

ments perfectly.

rego Desert State Park on the east side of San Diego County, the state parks cover ter-

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Natural Wonders

rain from desert to alpine forest. The

California’s 279 state parks and 32 national

second-deepest lake in the U.S., Lake Tahoe

parks, monuments and seashores, count-

lures visitors to its shores with its ethereal

REDWOODS NATIONAL PARK hiking, right; Pointe Discovery ﬁre pit, Terranea Resort, middle; Monterey Bay Aquarium, bottom; playing on the beach in Santa Barbara, opposite.

blue color no matter the season for water

modern day, can be traced at Oakland’s

activities, hiking or winter snow fun.

Museum of California.

While wildlife is plentiful in California’s wild spaces, one place to get a guaranteed

Notable Landmarks

close experience is at the Monterey Bay

History blends with fun at a wealth of Cali-

Aquarium, which inspires conservation of

fornia’s landmarks. Rent bicycles in San

the ocean with its rich collection of ani-

Francisco (Blazing Saddles and Bike and Roll

mals and learning opportunities. But don’t

are two popular shops) and ride from Fish-

forget to walk on the beach anywhere in

erman’s Wharf through Fort Mason, the

the state, as the varied habitats are home to

Marina and the Presidio past Crissy Field. All

tide pools, places to explore and play and

along the way, you’ll see amazing views of

spy wildlife from migratory birds to ele-

the Golden Gate Bridge. But why just look

phant seals and whales.

when you can extend your ride and cross it?

Historical Highlights History is far from boring in California, and there’s plenty to go around. It’s evident in the adobe buildings in Monterey, which still remain in what was once the capital of Alta California under Spanish and Mexican rule. The California Gold Rush brought fortune seekers and workers from around the

KRIS WIKTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK; TERRANNEA RESORT; KARLIS DAMBRAN. OPPOSITE: RON BERG

world to Sacramento and the Sierra foothills, and a handful of attractions— from Sutter’s Fort State Historic Park to the town of Columbia to the ghost town of Bodie—bring that exciting era to life. Built up heavily during the Gold Rush, the city of San Francisco suffered a devastating earthquake and fire in 1906, and the curious can experience the sustained tremors at the California Academy of Sciences. The growth of Los Angeles from fruit orchards to film powerhouse can be traced at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles. The Tech Museum of Innovation in San Jose celebrates inventive Silicon Valley, inspiring visitors and letting them make technological creations of their own. Above all, the history of the entire state, from life before the explorers to

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FAMILY FUN

GUIDED TOUR in Griﬃth Observatory, Los Angeles, right; Kidspace Children’s Museum, Pasadena, above.

In San Francisco Bay, Alcatraz Island is

even has a little bit of Hollywood history

the site of the first lighthouse and U.S.-

with iconic scenes from movies like Rebel

built fort on the West Coast, as well as the

Without a Cause. Public programs range

California State Parks parks.ca.gov

noted federal penitentiary. Gardens, tide

from planetarium shows to free public tel-

pools, bird colonies and bay views add to

escopes. Plan a visit around the monthly

Monterey Bay Aquarium montereybayaquarium.org

the prison history. The San Francisco Mar-

public star party on the lawn and side-

itime National Historical Park gives a

walks outside the observatory.

California Academy of Sciences calacademy.org

glimpse into the days when sailing ships

For a different view, look out from the

were one of the only ways to get to this

observatory’s parking lot at the panorama

Natural History Museum of Los Angeles nhm.org

region. Commute from there through San

of Los Angeles and the Hollywood sign.

Francisco on the city’s beloved cable cars

You can’t visit the sign, but you can see it

(the world’s largest manually operated

from a variety of other vantage points in

The Tech Museum of Innovation thetech.org

cable car system) to the San Francisco

the area, such as Mulholland Drive and the

Cable Car Museum.

intersection of Hollywood and Highland.

National Parks nps.gov

Museum of California museumca.org

Combine California beaches with a car-

Other viewing areas are accessible by

nival atmosphere at two spots along the

hiking trail: the Mount Hollywood trail,

San Francisco Cable Car Museum cablecarmuseum.org

coast: Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk and the

Canyon Boulevard trail, Lake Hollywood

Santa Monica Pier. Whereas the boardwalk

trail and Cahuenga Peak.

Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk beachboardwalk.com

has two National Historic Landmarks (the Giant Dipper roller coaster and the Looff

Theme Parks

Santa Monica Pier santamonicapier.org

Carousel), the pier has a trapeze school and

With a treasure of attractions across the

the amusement park juts out above the

Golden State, families aren’t limited to tra-

ocean. To get the best of coastal family fun,

ditional venues like theme parks for fun.

you should really try both.

But there’s a reason why they’re popular

Griﬃth Observatory griﬃthobservatory.org Hollywood Sign hollywoodsign.org

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Space fans flock to the Griffith Observa-

with children of all ages, and California

tory in Los Angeles, one of Southern

has plenty of choices. See our Theme Parks

California’s most popular attractions. It

article for more information.

KIDSPACE MUSEUM; PHOTOGOLFER/SHUTTERSTOCK

» FIND YOUR FUN

THEME PARKS

BY MATT VILLANO

Fun for All

AMUSEMENT PARKS

Diversions are as plentiful as sunshine

lot; this tram remains the best way to

Europeans started the concept of amusement parks centuries ago with fairs and pleasure gardens created for people’s recreation. The world’s oldest amusement park is Bakken, just north of Copenhagen, Denmark, which opened in 1583. The oldest theme park in the United States is Holiday World & Splashin’ Safari (called Santa Claus Land from its opening in 1946 until 1984) in Santa Claus, Indiana. California’s theme parks date from 1950.

in California. One of the most popular

experience stunt demonstrations and

outlets: original theme parks. These attrac-

staged events (such as an encounter with

tions are meccas to amusement, each

the shark from Jaws). The official studio

focusing rides and exhibits around dif-

tour commemorated its 50th anniversary

ferent concepts such as fairies, film,

in 2015 with the opening of a brand new

plastic blocks, sea life and an inimitable

grand finale dubbed Fast & Furious:

mouse. Most of the parks are situated in

Supercharged.

the southern part of the state (where the

The rest of the park is divided into two

weather is generally warmer), but the

areas connected by escalator: the Upper

granddaddy of them all is up north. Each

and Lower lots. Transformers: The Ride

of the parks is worth a closer look.

3-D is a fan-favorite on the Lower Lot. On the Upper Lot, Despicable Me Minion

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Universal Studios Hollywood

Mayhem, a 3-D simulator ride, and Super

This film-themed park got its formal start

Silly Fun Land, an outdoor family-friendly

in the 1960s when walk-throughs of Uni-

playground, both opened in April 2014.

versal Studios soundstages and sets were

The Wizarding World of Happy Potter, a

expanded to include peeks at actual pro-

rides-and-shopping attraction based on

duction. Over the years, the studio added

the Harry Potter books and movies, will

a tram to shuttle visitors through the back

open on the Upper Lot in April.

ASIF ISLAM/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: DISCOVER LA; JEREMY THOMPSON/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; RICKY BRIGANTE/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR

There’s loads of excitement at California’s theme parks

Children’s Fairyland Believe it or not, the first theme park in the U.S. to cater to families with young kids was Children’s Fairyland, a blink-and-you’llmiss-it theme park on the shores of Lake Merritt in Oakland. The place opened in 1950 (original admission started between 9 and 14 cents), making it the first official theme park in California, as well. According to some, it was one of Walt Disney’s inspirations for the eponymous park he created five years later. Today, Fairyland includes small rides such

PACIFIC PARK at Santa

as a mini Ferris wheel and carousels, and life-

Monica, above; Gold Striker

sized sets depicting scenes from timeless

at California’s Great

storybooks (Pinocchio’s castle and the

America, right; Despicable

Humpty Dumpty wall are two favorites). The

Me Minion Mayhem grand

theme park also is home to the Storybook

opening at Universal

Puppet Theater, which opened in 1956. A

Studios Hollywood, bottom;

number of the country’s most famous puppeteers got their start here, including a teenager by the name of Frances Oznowicz.

The Simpsons Ride at Universal Studios Hollywood, opposite.

You likely know him as Frank Oz.

Disneyland If the lovable (and life-sized) Mickey Mouse and friends don’t pique your interest and attention at California’s most famous theme park, surely the rides will. The park, which opened in 1955, features rides for all ages, including some of the most ballyhooed roller coasters anywhere in the state (one favorite is Space Mountain, which speeds along almost entirely in the dark). Overall, Disneyland is divided into eight themed areas, or “lands.” Some of these areas focus on actual history: Frontierland recreates the setting of the American frontier, while Main Street U.S.A. is patterned after a small Midwestern town (many believe Walt Disney got his inspiration from his own boyhood town of Marceline, Missouri). The park opened with one hotel, but since the 1990s it has grown exponentially, adding a new theme park (Disney’s California Adventure), a shopping district (Downtown Disney) and two additional hotels. One of the newest attractions, Cars

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

THEME PARKS Coaster, a roller coaster that takes passengers upside-down in both forward and backward directions.

San Diego Area Parks San Diego and its surrounding suburbs also comprise a great region for theme parks; two family favorites are SeaWorld and Legoland. Out near Mission Bay, in San Diego proper, SeaWorld is a sprawling homage to dozens of different species of marine life, including dolphins, sea lions, walruses, polar bears and beluga whales. It also is one of only two places in the world where emperor penguins are kept in captivity. In the nearby community of Carlsbad, PIRATEVILLE AT LEGOLAND California, Carlsbad, above.

Land, was inspired by the Cars movies, and

Legoland is dedicated to tiny plastic bricks

opened in June 2012. In 2015, the park

(dubbed “Legos”), and boasts mind-bog-

unveiled a new and interactive light show,

gling Lego replicas of famous architectural

the Paint the Night Parade.

icons (the Statue of Liberty and the Taj

FIND YOUR FANTASY

seven areas of the U.S. The park incorpo-

The San Francisco Bay Area is home to two

rates rides and eateries, and is home to the

other popular parks: California’s Great

Model Shop, the headquarters for the park’s

America (in Santa Clara) and Six Flags Dis-

10 master builders (a window allows guests

covery Kingdom (in Vallejo).

to witness these professionals at work). In

Great America, next to the new Levi’s

the summer of 2013, the park also opened

Stadium, is all about rides. Diversions

a hotel; the lobby has a giant pit of Legos

Universal Studios Hollywood universalstudioshollywood.com

range from scream-inducing (Flight Deck,

with which children can play. There also is

a roller coaster, has one 360-degree loop

an on-site water park.

Children’s Fairyland fairyland.org

and a zero-gravity roll) to family-friendly

Disneyland disneyland.disney.go.com California’s Great America cagreatamerica.com Six Flags Discovery Kingdom sixﬂags.com/discoverykingdom

(the Carousel Columbia is the world’s

CityPASS

tallest double-decker carousel). In 2015, the

Once you’ve decided where to go, try City-

park expanded the Planet Snoopy kids area

PASS for saving some money: In Southern

and added three new attractions, including

California, it knocks as much as one third

two new racing rides.

off the price of admission to Disneyland,

The vibe at Discovery Kingdom is more

Disney California Adventure Park, Legoland

Legoland California california.legoland.com

eclectic. In addition to rides such as the

and SeaWorld. The Southern California City-

Medusa roller coaster and SkyScreamer (a

PASS is a single-admission card that’s good

SeaWorld seaworldparks.com/en/ seaworld-sandiego

swing ride), the park also is home to a

over a 14-day period and allows you to skip

number of animals, including Jocko the

most ticket lines. In San Francisco, CityPass

walrus, who starred in the 2004 movie, 50

offers similar discounts (for attractions such

First Dates, and Brandon the reticulated

as the California Academy of Sciences and

giraffe, who was named after San Francisco

the Exploratorium), and is good for nine

Giants slugger, Brandon Belt. In 2015, park

days. Buy your CityPASS at any of the above

officials added the Dare Devil Chaos

attractions or online at citypass.com.

Knott’s Berry Farm knotts.com CityPASS citypass.com

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

CHRIS CHRISTIAN/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR

Mahal among them) as well as dioramas of

Other Bay Area Parks

CUISINE BY LAURA NESS

The Dining Scene

ALFRESCO DINING All up and down the state dining in the open air is popular, as it is here in Pasadena, above. Los Angeles is known for its wide variety of exquisite restaurants, and its cousin to the north, San Francisco, has more restaurants per capita than any other U.S. city. Old standards that have been around for decades still hold their own against innovative new arrivals. SF’s Mission district has become a foodie haven and surrounding communities from Berkeley to Palo Alto to Napa and Sonoma all bring ﬁne food to the table.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Like everything else in California from

If the Midwest is the bread basket of

politics to entertainment, food is a

America, California is its dairy queen, its

celebrity-driven business. From the rock

grape goddess, its almond alma mater, its

star antics of Guy Fieri to the farm-to-table

greenhouse fairy godmother, and, sorry,

phenom that took the country by storm,

Texas, its meat locker. Yes, California does

the culinary scene is a mix of where to be

have happier cows, with dairy being its

seen and those unseen farmers and field

largest export, followed by grapes,

laborers who actually do all the dirty work

almonds, nursery plants, cattle, strawber-

necessary to put food on tables. Thanks to

ries, lettuce and walnuts.

garden-to-table pioneer Alice Waters, who

Between the Salinas Valley—America’s

made growing your own green the new

Salad Bowl and top strawberry producer—

black before that was even an expression.

and the Imperial Valley for tomatoes,

Today, California is the largest producer

California farmers really put out. In record

of agricultural products in the country,

numbers they are forming CSAs (Community

with more than 400 commodities. Nearly

Supported Agriculture organizations) and it’s

half of USA-grown fruit, nuts and vegeta-

no surprise that California has upwards of

bles come from the Golden State.

800 farmers markets, the most nationwide.

PASADENA CVB. OPPOSITE: YOSEMITE SIGNATURE FOOD & WINE EVENTS; LOS ANGELES CVB; PASO ROBLES CVB

California cuisine is more than food

B. FARMERIE PLATING FOOD at Chefs’ Holidays at Yosemite Signature Food & Wine Events, left; Angel City Brewery, Los Angeles, below; a tempting plate at Pasolivo Family Bistro, Paso Robles, bottom.

Cadente (Fort Bragg), Victorine Valley

the top of their game include Atelier

Farms (Livermore) and Olea (Paso Robles)

Crenn, Boulevard, Perbacco, Zuni Café,

all producing decadent flavor-infusions,

Nopa, Gary Danko, Slanted Door and Jar-

along with balsamics.

dinière. In Berkeley, it’s still Chez Panisse

Restaurants with farm-to-table partnerships

are

prevalent,

including

and in Oakland, try Camino.

The

Restaurant at Wente in Livermore with its

Silicon Valley

sustainable gardens, and Michelin darling

In Los Gatos, gem of Silicon Valley, the new

Manresa, in Los Gatos, whose relationship

buzz is Hult’s (Scandinavian meets Cali-

with Love Apple Farms is legendary. Cham-

fornia), Bywater (David Kinch’s latest, this

inade, in Santa Cruz, holds a series of

one a homage to New Orleans), Verge

farm-to-table wine dinners featuring local

(eclectic Asian-Fusion) and Nick’s Next

wineries and farm-fresh produce.

Door (creatively exquisite comfort food), while in Campbell it’s Orchard City Kitchen

Top Dining Destinations

(by Michelin starred Chef Jeffrey Stout) and

things agriculture, and we can tip our hat

LA & Environs

Chef Ocean Orsten of Citrus at Hotel V on

to the Monterey Bay Aquarium for its

Trendy dining spots in star-studded LA

Santana Row.

impactful Seafood Watch program that

include Animal, Bestia, The Bellweather,

helps diners make informed choices,

Catch & Release, Cicada, Faith & Flower,

whether selecting fish at Whole Foods or

Field Trip, Koi, Marlowe, Maude, Mozza,

dining at classic Pacific Grove spots like

Petit Trois, Pot Commissary Café, Provi-

Passionfish and Fandango.

dence, Saint Martha, Sam’s by the Beach,

Sustainability is the keyword in all

Niman Ranch, a pioneer in hormone

Toca Madera, Trois Mec and Valentino.

free, humanely raised meats, set the stage for conscious consumption. Look for it on

San Diego

finer menus everywhere.

San Diego’s food scene is buzzing over Baci

Sonoma and Marin counties have

Ristorante, Bracero, Bottega Americano,

become the Cheese hub, with names like

Comun Kitchen & Tavern, Cucina Enoteca,

Barinaga (Marshall) and Cowgirl Creamery

Coastera, Juniper & Ivy, Prado, Rustic Root

(Point Reyes) consistent award-winners.

in the historic Gaslamp Quarter, the Red

Check out cheesetrail.org.

Door and Trulucks.

Apple lovers can rejoice in Sebastopol, home of Gravensteins, and in El Dorado’s

San Francisco

Apple Hill, where 50 farms welcome you to

San Francisco is a constant blender bender

pick. On the coast, berry farms (Swanton)

of change, with restaurants opening and

and pumpkin patches (Arata’s in Half

closing weekly. Top new culinary darling is

Moon Bay, complete with corn labyrinth)

Al’s Place in the Mission, along with

beckon, and Duarte’s Tavern in Pescadero

Acquerello, Bar Tartine, Commonwealth,

will warm you on foggy days with cream of

Delfina, Flour + Water, La Folie, Liholiho

artichoke and chile soup.

Yacht Club, Monsieur Benjamin, Quince,

California’s olive oil production has

Michael Mina’s Pabu and The Ramen Bar,

skyrocketed, with favorites like Stella

Range and The Richmond. Classics still at

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

CUISINE DINING UNDER THE STARS with a view at Pier 39, San Francisco, left; the Chef introduces the Peacock Pie at Bracebridge Dinner at Yosemite Signature Food & Wine Events, opposite.

YOUR » FIND NEXT MEAL seafoodwatch.org passionfish.net fandangorestaurant.com

Seacoast Stars

otherworldly experience, with views

Think Mendocino for some of the most

plunging to the Pacific deep.

nimanranch.com barinagaranch.com cowgirlcreamery.com

romantic and isolated coastal dining estab-

cheesetrail.org

lishments with drop-dead gorgeous views

Food Trucks Bring It On

and zero traffic. North Coast stars include

Trending skyward, food trucks have gone

Chef Marc Dym of Little River Inn and Chef

from flash mob craze to commonplace. Off

Nicolas Petti of Mendo Bistro, multiple

the Grid, a Bay Area network offering just

winner of the Dungeness crab cake cookoff

about every imaginable international cui-

held each January during Mendocino’s

sine, now includes an artisan cheese truck

stellacadente.com

Crabfest. The gourmet cuisine of Chef Peg

called “Cheese Therapy.”

victorinevalleyfarms.com

Davis at Brewery Gulch Inn makes it the

gravensteinapplefair.com applehill.com swantonberryfarm.com aratapumpkinfarm.com duartestavern.com

Food & Wine Extravaganzas

wentevineyards.com/restaurant

The Wild Fish in Albion sets new standards

True epicures should not miss the defin-

manresarestaurant.com

for white linen seaside dining.

itive food and wine events put on yearly

loveapplefarms.com

by Pebble Beach’s Coastal Luxury Man-

chaminade.com

Carmel & Monterey

agement. First, there’s Pebble Beach Food

summit2seawinetrail.com

La Balena’s authentic Italian cuisine is the

& Wine in April, a multi-day extrava-

littleriverinn.com

current fave in Carmel. Michelin-starred

ganza showcasing the hottest new chefs

mendobistro.com

Aubergine, where Chef Justin Cogley and

doing live cooking demos. And the wine

Pastry Chef Ron Mendoza work wonders, and

selection is so unbeatable, you’d best

Anton & Michel, Casanova and Cantinetta

learn to spit.

Lucca. Carmel Valley’s newly remodeled and

LA Food & Wine follows in August. Sem-

renamed Lucia at Bernardus Lodge, headed

inars at both bring world-class educators,

by esteemed Chef Cal Stamenov, continue to

chefs and winemakers together to create

wow diners. Wills Fargo’s new owners,

learning experiences that will open your

Hunter and Nick Lowder of Holman Ranch,

eyes to the incomparable scope of the culi-

are revamping the revered steakhouse, while

nary cosmos.

mendocino.com bernarduslodge.com postranchinn.com cheesetherapytruck.com offthegridsf.com pbfw.com lafw.com testarossa.com Mouthwatering News

La Rustica puts out solid fare that will please

Fans of Testarossa Winery will not want

a diverse audience before or after wine

to miss the 3rd Annual Testarossa Wine &

slofoodbank.org

tasting in the Village.

Food festival on June 5 in Los Gatos, fea-

tastingtable.com

turing Michelin-starred chefs at the

seriouseats.com

In Big Sur, superstar Chef John Cox makes any meal at clifftop Sierra Mar an

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

historic Novitiate.

chow.com

PIER 39, SAN FRANCISCO. OPPOSITE: LANI SPICER/ANDREA FULTON PRODUCTIONS

oleafarms.com

finest B&B in Mendocino, and newcomer

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

WINE COUNTRY

BY MARCY GORDON

Fruit of the Vine When it comes to wine, there’s always something to celebrate

CALIFORNIA VINEYARDS Sampling local wines is a popular activity, whether in Santa Ynez Valley, above, or in the many wine growing regions up and down the state. California wines became famous when a Chardonnay from Chateau Montelena in Napa Valley won the Judgment of Paris in 1976. It was an event that rocked the wine world, and the quality of California wines has only grown since then.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

There are so many wines, varieties and

the casual wine fan seeking a few hours of

regions in California (the fourth largest

food and fun, as well as to the experienced

wine producing area in the world after

wine enthusiast determined to discover

Spain, France and Italy) that figuring out

the next great grape producer.

where to go and what to taste can be

area is by attending a local wine festival.

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA COAST Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, Livermore, Santa Cruz Mountains

Think of it as Wine-Recon, a most

The most famous California wine region by

delightful way to gather insight and infor-

far is in Northern California. Napa Valley is

mation on local wineries in a short span of

known around the world for its exceptional

time. From large-scale food and wine fests

wines, and draws more visitors than any

to small, quirky events focused on specific

other area. The quintessential wine country

wines such as Pinot Noir, sparkling, or

experience was perfected here, with more

Rhônes, wine festivals can cater to both

than 300 wineries vying for your taste buds

daunting. Aside from taking a tour, one of the best ways to get acquainted with an

SANTA BARBARA WINE COUNTRY, right; wine barrels stacked outside Chateau Montelena, Calistoga, below right; cycling among the vines, Paso Robles, bottom right.

along Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail. Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are the signature grapes grown in the valley, but other varieties have been making a strong showing in the last decade. While the majority of visitors go to the big-name wineries such as Robert Mondavi, Beringer and Sterling, those in the know are heading for Coombsville. Located just minutes from

DINA MANDE; WOLLERTZ/SHUTTERSTOCK; JAY SINCLAIR. OPPOSITE: MICAH/SHUTTERSTOCK

downtown Napa, Coombsville’s unusual cool climate results in sensational Caber-

Signal Ridge. Just up the road from the The

Passport to Hopland, a true locals event, is

nets from grower/producers such as Meteor,

Madrones you’ll find the Baxter Winery

held twice a year in spring and fall.

Sodaro, Caldwell and Farella. Most are open

tasting room, a must stop for outstanding

In Sonoma County, Healdsburg reigns

by appointment only, but well worth the

Pinot Noir from a father and son wine-

as the king of the tasting rooms in Cali-

effort to call and go.

making team. Anderson Valley hosts two

fornia. Local under-the-radar favorites

Foodies and wine lovers will want to

exceptional festivals, the highly regarded

include Banshee, Stark and Cartograph.

check out Flavor! Napa Valley, an annual

Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Fest in May,

Healdsburg is also home to one of the most

event featuring world class Napa Valley

and the Alsace Fest in February, focusing

eclectic wine events of the year—the uber

wines alongside food prepared by the

on Alsace-style white wines including

hip 7% Solution Fest dedicated to rare,

master chefs and graduates of The Culinary

Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris,

lesser

Institute of America at the Greystone

Pinot Blanc and Muscat. Farther inland,

extremely limited production.

grown

grape

varieties

with

Campus in St. Helena. The Valley’s most famous event, Auction Napa Valley is the place to hob-nob with serious wine collectors in a weekend of intimate soirees, casual luncheons and grand tastings, culminating with the auction, where bids on exclusive wine lots reach the stratosphere for a worthy cause. Prefer something more pastoral? Wind your way up Highway 128 in Mendocino County to Anderson Valley, the premier growing region in Mendocino, and stop in at the The Madrones, a wine-tasting and luxury lodging “suite spot” that showcases local wines from Drew, Bink, Knez and

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

WINE COUNTRY

Visiting Northern Sonoma in January?

The Central Coast is one of the largest and

just 30 miles east of San Francisco and best

most diverse wine growing regions, and

known for its Chardonnay production and

Monterey is home to the granddaddy of

the well-established winery estates of

all wine festivals, the Pebble Beach Food

Wente and Concannon. In March, you can

and Wine Classic in April, where you can

meet the winemakers and taste wine right

sip fine wines and enjoy small plates by

out of the barrel during the Livermore

star chefs.

Valley Annual Barrel Tasting Weekend.

If you are a Pinot or Syrah fan, head for the highlands, the Santa Lucia Highlands, an

SIERRA FOOTHILLS El Dorado, Amador, Calaveras

appellation with many noteworthy wineries such as Morgan, Mer Soleil, and Hahn.

Warm up a chill winter day with new

The mining towns of the Sierra foothills—

Santa Clara Valley is one of the oldest

releases, barrel tasting and food pairings

Placerville, Amador City and Sutter

wine regions in California. Founded by

at Winter WINEland, a self-paced winery

Creek—used to draw prospectors in search

Italian immigrants in the early 1800s, this

tour that’s the toasty event of the season.

of gold. Now wine lovers come in search of

region has now grown to approximately 23

For a veritable movable feast of food, wine

riches in liquid form, such as Grenache,

wineries featuring such varietals as

and vineyard vistas, head to Jordan

Sangiovese and particularly Old-vine Zin-

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and

Winery, just outside of town on Alexander

fandel. The proximity to natural wonders

harder-to-find varietals such as Barbera,

Valley Road, for the three-hour Estate Tour

from groves of giant sequoias to caves and

Sangiovese and Pinot Blanc. Follow the

and Tasting experience.

caverns makes this region the perfect stop

new, 28-mile-loop Wine Trail for a taste of

for the active oenophile.

this re-emerging wine region.

Sebastopol, an area previously noted for its apples, is gaining ground as a place for

The main street of Murphys is lined

Paso Robles is said to be the region with

great wine too with several tasting rooms in

with Gold Rush-era buildings and more

the most potential, and wineries here

the new Barlow complex featuring boutique

than 20 tasting rooms equal parts rustic

range from large commercial producers to

wines from Kosta Browne, LaFollette, Wind

and sophisticated. If possible, time your

small boutiques making limited quanti-

Gap, MacPhail, and Marimar Estate. Just

visit to coincide with the Barbera Fest in

ties. Peachy Canyon, Gray Wolf, J. Lohr and

south of Sebastopol, the Petaluma Gap Wine

June, or the Rocks & Rhônes Weekend on

Tablas Creek are some of the standouts

Growers Alliance hosts the Wind to Wine

Memorial Day weekend.

along the wine trail. Looking to meet the

Festival, a new event showcasing wines produced with fruit grown within the boundaries of the newly proposed Petaluma Gap AVA, a sub-region of the Sonoma Coast AVA, characterized by intense afternoon winds in the growing season.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

next great winemaker? The Garagiste Fest

CENTRAL COAST Monterey, Santa Lucia Highlands, Chalone, Carmel Valley, Paso Robles, Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande, Santa Clara Valley

in Paso Robles will introduce you to the small guys with bright futures. And if bubbles make you happy, BubblyFest by the Sea in Pismo Beach is one of the only festivals in the county dedicated to sparkling wines.

CHRIS LESCHINSKY; DOUGLAS THOMPSON

A ROMANTIC WINE TASTING in Sonoma, above; San Luis Obispo wine country, top.

One of the oldest regions, Livermore, is

WINE COUNTRY

» WINE FESTIVALS

Flavor! Napa Valley—Nov. 17-20 ﬂavornapavalley.com SONOMA Winter WINEland—Jan. 16-17 wineroad.com/events/winter_wineland 7% Solution (Healdsburg) May (check site for date) bergamotalley.com/seven-solution Wind to Wine Festival (Petaluma) Nov. 5 petalumagap.com/event/wind-to-winefestival MENDOCINO The International Alsace Varietals Festival—Feb. 13-14 avwines.com/alsace-festival Hopland Passport April 30-May 1 & Oct. 15-16 destinationhopland.com/hopland-passport Anderson Valley Pinot Fest May 20-22 avwines.com/anderson-valley-pinotnoir-festival LIVERMORE Livermore Valley Barrel Tasting Weekend—March 19-20 lvwine.org/event/1192/Barrel_Tasting_ Weekend.html

SIERRA FOOTHILLS Rocks & Rhônes Weekend—May 21-22 pleasantvalleywineries.com The Barbera Fest—June 11 barberafestival.com CENTRAL COAST Passport Weekend—March 19-20 santaclarawines.com Pebble Beach Food & Wine Classic March 31-April 3 pbfw.com BUBBLYFest by the Sea (Pismo Beach) Oct. 1-2 bubblyfest.com Garagiste Festival (Paso Robles) Nov. 10-12 garagistefestival.com SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA & CENTRAL VALLEY Zin Fest (Lodi Lake)—May 13-15 zinfest.com

Olivos is the place. Don’t miss Alta Maria’s

Temecula Valley Balloon & Wine Festival—May 20-22 tvbwf.com

world class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay,

Bacon & Barrels (Los Olivos)—July 15-17 baconandbarrels.com/the-event

a hardcore pork and pinot lover, make

San Diego Zoo Wine and Food—Sept. 24 sandiegozoo.org/zoo/celebration

Bacon & Barrels Festival.

Santa Barbara Celebration of Harvest Oct. 7-10 celebrationofharvest.com

Valley, a major agricultural region that

Tercero for Rhône varietals, and the stunning Riesling at Fess Parker. But if you are plans to be in Los Olivos in July for the Zinfandel grows well in the Central runs down the middle of the state from Sacramento to Bakersfield, and Lodi Zin Fest is the most famous and longest run-

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA & CENTRAL VALLEY Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills, Santa Ynez Valley, Los Olivos, Temecula, Lodi, Madera, Clarksburg

Noir hot spot (or cool spot, as Pinot grapes

ning festival for Zinfandel lovers. Lodi’s

don’t like too much heat). But the ghosts of

star is on the rise, its status as merely bulk

Sideways’ Miles and Jack are long gone and

wine territory is fading fast and it’s now

it’s safe to drink Merlot again. Fall brings the

recognized as one of the top wine regions

annual Celebration of Harvest with Santa

in the new world, a hotbed of production

The Southern California coastal region vine-

Barbara Vintners offering free wine tasting

growing over 100 varieties in addition to

yards in Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills and

over Columbus Day Weekend along the wine

it’s legendary Zin. Two popular producers

Santa Ynez Valley produce primarily

trails of Buellton, Foxen Canyon, Lompoc,

are the Berghold Estate Winery and

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah, the new

Los Olivos, Santa Barbara, Santa Ynez Valley,

Michael-David Winery, best known for its

emerging star. Santa Ynez Valley became the

Santa Rita Hills and Solvang.

7 Deadly Zins blend. Wine geeks in the

poster child for wine tourism when the 2004

In search of the ideal town to spend the

film Sideways confirmed its status as a Pinot

day tasting, shopping and dining? Tiny Los

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

know head to McCay Cellars for the Zin, but stay for the Viognier.

CHRIS ANDRE PHOTOGRAPHY. OPPOSITE: LEONARD ZHUKOVSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA NAPA Auction Napa Valley—June 2-5 auctionnapavalley.org

MAYO FAMILY WINERY, Glen Ellen, right; Bordeaux tasting at Vintners’ Holidays, Yosemite Signature Food & Wine Events, opposite.

Vineyards inland in Southern California’s mostly hot and arid region are gaining notice, and Temecula in particular is generating an ardent following for its

wine too. The two primary growing

Food Festival where you can stroll the

wines and sheer determination to grow

regions, San Pasqual and Ramona Valley,

grounds and sip wine in the midst of the

grapes in a challenging location. Get an

continue to develop with many wineries

wild kingdom.

overview of the wine scene, literally,

offering tastings and tours. One standout

California wine festivals and events fill

during the Temecula Valley Balloon and

in San Pasqual is Orfila, an ultra-premium

the calendar all year long, like a roulette

Wine festival.

boutique winery making Rhônes, Zin-

wheel of juicy prospects. Whether you plan

San Diego usually means sun and sand,

fandel, and Merlot. Animal lovers will

ahead, or spin the big wine wheel and see

but just an hour north you’ll find there’s

enjoy the annual San Diego Zoo Wine and

where it lands, the odds are delicious.

» FIND A WINERY GUIDE TO CALIFORNIA WINE californiawineryadvisor.com WINERIES & VINEYARDS Northern California Coast robertmondavi.com beringer.com sterlingvineyards.com meteorvineyard.com farella.com sodarowines.com caldwellvineyard.com baxterwinery.com binkwines.com knezwinery.com drewwines.com signalridge.com bansheewines.com starkwine.com cartographwines.com jordanwinery.com kostabrowne.com lafollettewines.com marimarestate.com windgapwines.com macphailwine.com Central Coast & Santa Lucia Highlands mersoleilvineyard.com hahnestates.com morganwinery.com clos.com guglielmowinery.com sycamorecreekvineyards.com

Paso Robles peachycanyon.com greywolfcellars.com jlohr.com tablascreek.com Southern California & Central Valley altamaria.com fessparkerwines.com tercerowines.com Lodi bergholdvineyards.com michaeldavidwinery.com mccaycellars.com San Diego orfila.com TASTING ROOMS themadrones.com WINERY ASSOCIATIONS Anderson Valley Wine Growers Association avwines.com

Livermore Valley Wine Growers Association lvwine.org Lodi Wineries lodiwine.com/wineries Mendocino Wine Country mendowine.com Napa Valley Vintners napavintners.com Paso Robles Wine pasowine.com Petaluma Gap Winegrowers Alliance petalumagap.com Pleasant Valley Wineries pleasantvalleywineries.com San Diego/Ramona Valley Vineyard Association ramonavalleyvineyards.org Santa Barbara Vintners Association sbcountywines.com

Coombsville Winery Members coombsvillenapa.org

Sonoma Wine Road Association wineroad.com

El Dorado County & Sierra Foothills eldoradowines.org

Temecula Wineries temeculawines.org/wineries-vineyards

Hopland destinationhopland.com/wineries

West Sonoma Coast Vintners westsonomacoast.com

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MUSEUMS & ART

BY JEFF GREENWALD & LAURIE WEED

Celebrating the Human Spirit Art, science and culture flourish on the Left Coast

Part of the Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens in San Marino, the gallery contains an extensive collection with a focus on 18thand 19th-century European art and 17th- to mid 20th-century American art. The institution was established by railroad magnate Henry E. Huntington and opened in 1928, a year after his death.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Maybe it’s something about the sunshine,

The Arts

the sense of freedom, that West Coast cul-

Visiting Los Angeles? It’s easy to spend

ture, the mystery of desert-meets-Pacific…

hours gleefully lost in the galleries at the

who knows? Whatever the reason, Cali-

Los Angeles County Museum of Art

fornia has a long tradition of attracting

(LACMA). The museum always features

artists and innovators—not to mention

some great temporary exhibitions, but

generous arts patrons and benefactors. As

don’t miss their permanent collections of

a result, the Golden State is rich in

Asian, African and Japanese art. Deeper

museums, science centers and thriving arts

downtown, the Museum of Contemporary

scenes, all in astonishing variety.

Art (MoCA) and Geffen Contemporary

Coastal cities are hubs for much of the

showcase the best in 20th- and 21st-century

arty goodness. From the San Francisco Bay

painting, sculpture and conceptual art-

Area to San Diego, you are never very far

work. Late 2015 saw the opening of the

from a world-class collection of classical or

architecturally dazzling Broad Museum, a

contemporary art. In addition to visual arts

“theater of ideas” featuring more than

of every stripe, there are museums high-

2,000 works of contemporary art—with

lighting natural and cultural history, science

free general admission.

and technology, and many that celebrate the

One highlight of a California visit is

diverse cultures of the state’s nearly 39 mil-

often the renowned Getty Museum, which

lion residents. Whether you prefer to ogle

includes both the Getty Center in Los

modern art or antiquities, space shuttles or

Angeles and the Getty Villa in Malibu. The

steam engines, you’re sure to find at least

Villa’s 2016 offerings will include an exhi-

one museum to dazzle you.

bition of Roman mosaics, while the more

HUNTINGTON LIBRARY, ART COLLECTION, AND BOTANICAL GARDENS. OPPOSITE: DISCOVER LA; SACRAMENTO CVB

HUNTINGTON ART GALLERY

CALIFORNIA SCIENCE CENTER, Los Angeles, right; California State Railroad Museum, Sacramento, bottom right.

contemporary Center (which spans the Medieval period to the present) will present the photography of Robert Mapplethorpe, ancient Buddhist cave art from the Gobi Desert and a collection of illumi-

of 70 Rodins in the museum’s permanent

nated manuscripts.

collection. In nearby Golden Gate Park,

Pasadena’s wonderful Norton Simon

meanwhile, the reimagined de Young is lit-

showcases a spectrum of European and

erally a pillar of modern architecture. A

Modern artists, amid a beautiful and serene

distinctive copper building featuring a 10-

sculpture garden. In nearby San Marino,

story observation tower, the de Young is

the impressive Beaux-Arts mansion and

Northern California’s premier metropol-

grounds of financier Henry E. Huntington

itan art museum, showcasing the arts of

are now The Huntington, with an impres-

Africa, Oceania and the New World. Special

you’re in the East Bay, check out the

sive library, art collections and 120 acres of

exhibits in 2016 will include a lavish Oscar

Berkeley Art Museum—on the campus of

botanical gardens. Here you can admire

de la Renta retrospective, Raphael’s iconic

UC Berkeley—with its often odd mix of

Audubon’s bird drawings, view an actual

“Portrait of a Lady with a Unicorn” and

super-contemporary, Abstract Expres-

Gutenberg Bible and wander through one

painter Ed Ruscha’s provocative take on the

sionist and traditional Asian art.

of the West Coast’s most surreal displays of

modern mythology of the American West.

flowering cacti and succulents.

The San Francisco Museum of Modern

Science

Ninety miles north of LA, the Santa Bar-

Art (SFMOMA) is in the midst of a massive

The marvelous California Science Center

bara Museum of Art is renowned for its

expansion project, expected to be com-

in Los Angeles’ Exposition Park claims to

ambitious and imaginative exhibitions. An

plete in 2016. Their motto is, “We’ve

be the largest hands-on science museum

equal distance to the south, San Diego’s

temporarily moved...everywhere.” Check

on the West Coast, with ongoing exhibits

Museum of Contemporary Art features a

their website (see sidebar) for satellite

on invention, space travel and life sci-

variety of exhibits in two locations, the

exhibitions around the Bay Area.

ences. Visitors can get up close to the Space

historic Jacob building downtown and

A short BART ride (or drive across the

Shuttle Endeavor or explore some of the

their sparkling oceanfront La Jolla prop-

Bay Bridge) from San Francisco, the Oak-

Earth’s harshest ecosystems, from boiling

erty. In Balboa Park, the Museum of

land Museum of California (OMCA) is

sea vents to the polar zones. The most

Photographic Arts is California’s only

dedicated to the arts, history and ecology

amazing thing of all? It’s free!

museum dedicated exclusively to photog-

of California. This handsome gem is one of

Ten years and half a billion dollars in

raphy, film and video.

the state’s finest museums, offering tem-

the making, the California Academy of Sci-

San Francisco’s two most important art

porary exhibits on themes ranging from

ences in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park

museums are as architecturally different

the Day of the Dead to “A Cinematic Study

features the Steinhart Aquarium, “home to

as two buildings can be. The Legion of

of Fog.” The museum’s beautiful new wing

nearly 40,000 live animals,” a walk-

Honor—set in Lincoln Park, on a hill over-

on California’s Natural History includes

through rainforest with free-ranging birds

looking the Golden Gate Bridge and Pacific

displays of life and work from the Gold

and butterflies, the world’s largest all-dig-

Ocean—is a ¾-scale recreation of Paris’

Rush to Hollywood, from the Beats to

ital planetarium and a “Living Roof” with

Palais de la Légion d’Honneur, and holds an

the Tech Boom. Also one of the more

1.7 million native California plants: a world

extraordinary collection of drawings as

family-friendly museums around, OMCA

unto itself. The long admission lines can

well as changing exhibitions from around

sponsors many events, hands-on exhibits

be daunting (it’s one of the most-visited

the world. At the entrance, surrounded by

and activities designed to engage young

museums in the country), but they move

Beaux-Arts columns, sits The Thinker—one

artists and budding naturalists. And while

fast and it’s worth the effort.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

MUSEUMS & ART

» FIND YOUR ART

After nearly 45 years at the Palace of Fine Arts, the legendary Exploratorium moved to Piers 15 and 17 on San Francisco’s Embarcadero in 2013. The vast new space houses

than

650

interactive

exhibits—including an amazing “Tin-

What follows is but a sample; there are

kerers’ Clock,” mind-boggling optical

many, many more cultural museums to

illusions and a popular “After Dark” event

choose from. We wish we could include

on the first Thursday evening of every

them all!

month. The crawl-through Tactile Dome,

In Sacramento, the California Museum

recently refurbished, remains a highlight

features the California Hall of Fame, cele-

(reservations required).

brating local legends from John Muir to

Both the Academy of Sciences and

Sally Ride.

Exploratorium are geared toward kids of all

In San Francisco’s North Beach, the Beat

ages. For those traveling with children

Museum is affectionately known as “The

under eight, the Bay Area Discovery

House Jack (Kerouac) Built.” Downtown,

Museum at Fort Baker in Sausalito, a pint-

the Contemporary Jewish Museum and

sized Wonderland dedicated to promoting

nearby Museum of the African Diaspora

creative thinking, makes a worthwhile day

(MoAD) provide fascinating insights into

trip. From San Francisco, it’s a short drive

two of California’s most creative ethnic tra-

across the Golden Gate Bridge.

ditions. Visiting the Asian Art Museum, in

The Tech Museum of Innovation in San

San Francisco’s former Public Library, is

Jose (the heart of Silicon Valley) is the

the next best thing to a trip along the

country’s first museum dedicated to the dig-

ancient Silk Road. The small but beloved

ital revolution, with exhibits on Artificial

Mexican Museum of San Francisco will

Intelligence, Robotics and Cyber-Security.

soon be moving from its Fort Mason out-

Two hours south of San Francisco by car, the Monterey Bay Aquarium deserves to be

post to Yerba Buena Gardens—and enjoying a long-overdue expansion.

included among the Wonders of the World

For a taste of luminous California

for its astonishing displays of sea otters and

kitsch, the nebulous Museum of Neon

jellies, its mesmerizing three-story kelp

Art—scheduled to reopen in Glendale’s

forest and a staggering million-gallon

new Cultural Arts District—plans to offer

“Outer Bay” tank as fascinating as any IMAX

seasonal “Neon Cruises” through the high-

film. Give yourself a full day to enjoy Mon-

voltage landmarks of downtown Los

terey’s iconic Cannery Row and explore this

Angeles. In Long Beach, the Museum of

marvel of a museum.

Latin American Art (MoLAA) features modern and contemporary work by artists

Culture

from the New World. In Little Tokyo, the

California is a rare and enduring alloy of

Japanese American National Museum fea-

more than 50 ethnic groups. Its museums

tures exhibitions ranging from the World

reflect the racial diversity and cultural his-

War II incarcerations to a sprawling show

tory of this melting pot in microcosm.

on Hello Kitty.

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THE ARTS Fine Arts Museums of SF famsf.org SF MOMA sfmoma.org Oakland Museum of California museumca.org LACMA lacma.org MoCA moca.org Geffen Contemporary moca.org The Broad Museum thebroad.org Norton Simon Museum nortonsimon.org The Huntington Library huntington.org Getty Center & Getty Villa getty.edu/visit Santa Barbara Museum of Art sbmuseart.org Museum of Contemporary Art, San Diego mcasd.org Museum of Photographic Arts mopa.org SCIENCE California Science Center californiasciencecenter.org The Tech Museum thetech.org Monterey Bay Aquarium montereybayaquarium.org California Academy of Sciences calacademy.org Exploratorium exploratorium.edu Bay Area Discovery Museum baykidsmuseum.org CULTURE The California Museum californiamuseum.org Beat Museum thebeatmuseum.org Contemporary Jewish Museum thecjm.org MoAD moadsf.org Asian Art Museum asianart.org Museum of Neon Art neonmona.org Japanese American National Museum janm.org Mexican Museum mexicanmuseum.org MoLAA molaa.com

PASADENA CVB; OPPOSITE: SF OPERA.

PACIFIC ASIA MUSEUM, Pasadena, right.

PERFORMING ARTS

BY JEFF GREENWALD & LAURIE WEED

Encore! Encore! California celebrates every flavor of live performance

What would one expect, though, from the birthplace of I Love Lucy and the home of the San Francisco Mime Troupe? The performing arts are one of California’s great attractions, with a dizzying variety of choices—sacred, profane and everything in between—that is both inspiring and maddening. A full accounting is impossible, but here are some suggestions to consider if you are visiting any of the state’s urban hubs.

Regional Theaters In San Diego, near the Mexican border, the La Jolla Playhouse has seen 26 of its productions move across the continent to Broadway, earning 35 Tony Awards. The Old Globe Theatre presents the plays of Shake-

SAN FRANCISCO OPERA The world-renowned San Francisco Opera is the second largest opera company in North America. Founded in 1923, the company’s ﬁrst performance was Puccini’s La Bohème. Opera had been popular in San Francisco since Gold Rush days, but until 1923 had only been performed by visiting opera companies. Today, opening night is a festive occasion, with the War Memorial Opera House always packed. A scene from a recent production of Tosca appears above. The Opera also produces an annual simulcast at AT&T Park, home of the San Francisco Giants, above right.

Performance is the lifeblood of the arts,

speare (of course), as well as works by the

especially in California. From the Barbary

likes of Arthur Miller and an annual

Coast docks to the Paramount studio lots,

Christmas production penned by a late

drama, dance and music have always been

local resident: Dr. Seuss.

an indelible part of the “Left Coast” spirit.

Los Angeles, naturally, features dozens

It makes perfect sense that, in the classic

of small theater companies—such as Santa

1936 film San Francisco, Mary Blake

Monica’s Open Fist, the Actor’s Co-op, the

(Jeanette MacDonald) is singing her heart

diverse Cornerstone and Hollywood’s pro-

out when the Great Earthquake strikes.

found Blank Theater (which hosts the

Today, nearly every town in California

annual Young Playwrights Festival every

boasts a stage of its own—from the Light-

summer). The city’s star attraction is the

house Repertory Theater in Crescent City

Center Theatre Group, with three stages:

to San Diego’s Coronado Playhouse. The

The Mark Taper Forum, Kirk Douglas

state’s scores of concert halls, symphony

and Ahmanson theaters. Here you’ll find

orchestras, theaters, jazz clubs, dance com-

everything from top-shelf classics to

panies, comedy troupes, cabarets, operas

cutting-edge solo performances.

and fringe festivals lay waste to the notion

It is San Francisco, though, that quali-

of spending a quiet evening (or even an

fies as California’s theater epicenter. Home

afternoon) at home.

of the legendary American Conservatory

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PERFORMING ARTS Theater (A.C.T., which premiered Cole

highest distinction in American theater.

most striking buildings, inside and out—

Porter’s High Society in 1997), the city offers

These include the Berkeley Repertory The-

as well as the home of the renowned and

live performance for every taste. The

atre, 30 minutes by car or a short BART ride

innovative Los Angeles Philharmonic. Cal-

Eureka Theatre (which premiered Angels in

from San Francisco. They continue a tradi-

ifornia’s other preeminent orchestra is of

America), the Magic Theatre (which estab-

tion of inspired experimentation, with a

course the San Francisco Symphony, under

lished playwright Sam Shepard), Z Space

roster that has included works by artists

the legendary musical direction of Michael

and Aurora are just a few of the city’s native

such as Mary Zimmerman and Green Day,

Tilson Thomas, at home in the Louise M.

companies—not to mention the politically

and solo shows by Rita Moreno, Anna

Davies Symphony Hall.

charged San Francisco Mime Troupe, now

Devere Smith and many others.

There was a time, not too long ago, when

in its 58th rabble-rousing year. For superb

And while you’re in the East Bay, don’t

the pride of every major city in the world

solo performance, check out both Intersec-

overlook “Cal Shakes”—the California

was its opera house. Opera still maintains

tion for the Arts and The Marsh (“A

Shakespeare Company—with its gorgeous

a huge following in California, with nearly

breeding ground for new performance”),

open-air venue in the Orinda hills.

thirty companies across the state—five in

which has built an enviable reputation

Other excellent theaters include the

the LA area alone. The San Francisco Opera

with its four intimate theaters in two loca-

South Coast Repertory in Costa Mesa, San

and Los Angeles Opera are two of the largest

tions, San Francisco and Berkeley.

Jose Repertory and the Sacramento Theater

in North America, with global reputations

A terrific recent addition to the Bay Area

Company. Finally, the state hosts no less

for set production and excellence. Kudos as

theater scene is We Players, led by

than five cutting-edge Fringe Festivals—

well to the renowned Long Beach Opera,

visionary artistic director Ava Roy. In col-

search online for “Fringe Festival California”

now in its fourth decade.

laboration with the National Park Service,

to find up-to-date listings.

We Players have performed Ondine at the

But California’s two most prominent

Symphonies, Opera & Ballet

music. San Diego, Sacramento, Oakland,

and Macbeth at Fort Point. Check their

Santa Cruz and Santa Barbara all support

website (see sidebar) for upcoming site-

Owen Gehry, the Walt Disney Concert Hall

superb orchestras.

specific shows.

in downtown LA was designed to be one of

Ballet in the Golden State has an equally

Half a dozen California regional play-

the most acoustically perfect performance

impressive pedigree. The San Francisco

houses have won Tony Awards—the

spaces on earth. It’s also one of the planet’s

Ballet, founded in 1933, was the first professional ballet company in the United States. The California Ballet Company in San Diego has attained a stellar international reputation, and remains the largest professional ballet company in Southern California. Celebrating its 10th season in 2016, the Los Angeles Ballet is a newcomer to the scene, while the reinvigorated Oakland Ballet recently marked its golden 50th anniversary.

Jazz & Blues Here’s a quick sampler of the state’s best jazz and blues clubs. Oakland, a rising star in many arenas, is a hotbed of jazz with clubs like Yoshi’s in Jack London Square, Geoffrey’s Inner Circle and Birdland leading the pack. Across the Bay in San Francisco, don’t miss the SF Jazz Center,

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MATT MARRIOTT/DISCOVER LA. OPPOSITE: PLAYING FOR CHANGE FOUNDATION/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICR

cities don’t have a monopoly on great

Sutro Baths, The Odyssey on Angel Island

1LOVE PLAYING FOR CHANGE DAY at Whisky a Go Go, West Hollywood, left; Broadway in downtown Los Angeles, opposite bottom.

A » FIND PERFORMANCE La Jolla Playhouse lajollaplayhouse.org

LA Opera laopera.org

The Old Globe theoldglobe.org

Long Beach Opera longbeachopera.org

Open Fist Theatre openﬁst.org

San Francisco Symphony sfsymphony.org

Jazz Bakery.

Actor’s Co-op actorsco-op.org

Los Angeles Philharmonic laphil.com

Rock ’n’ Roll ’n’ More

Cornerstone Theater cornerstonetheater.org

San Francisco Ballet sfballet.org

Blank Theater theblank.com

California Ballet Company californiaballet.org

Center Theatre Group centertheatregroup.org

Los Angeles Ballet losangelesballet.org

American Conservatory Theater act-sf.org

Oakland Ballet oaklandballet.org

Eureka Theatre theeurekatheatre.com

SF Jazz Center sfjazz.org

Magic Theatre magictheatre.org

Kuumbwa Jazz Center kuumbwajazz.org

Z Space zspace.org

Yoshi’s Jazz Club yoshis.com

Aurora Theatre auroratheatre.org

The Jazz Bakery jazzbakery.org

Brick) in San Diego.

Intersection for the Arts theintersection.org

The Baked Potato thebakedpotato.com

Circus & Cabaret

The Marsh themarsh.org

Catalina catalinajazzclub.com

San Francisco Mime Troupe sfmt.org

The Casbah casbahmusic.com

We Players weplayers.org

Brick by Brick brickbybrick.com

Berkeley Repertory Theatre berkeleyrep.org

Circus Vargas circusvargas.org

California Shakespeare Company calshakes.org

Cirque du Soleil cirquedusoleil.com

San Francisco Opera sfopera.com

Teatro Zinzanni zinzanni.com/sf

and visit The Saloon and Club Deluxe for blues. In Santa Cruz, it’s the Kuumbwa Jazz Center; in Fullerton, Steamers; the Baked Potato and Catalina in Hollywood; Charlie O’s in Van Nuys; and The Torch Club (for blues) in Sacramento. In LA, find the hottest new offerings at the

From the Doors to the Dead, California has long been Ground Zero for great live music. Here are a few of California’s legendary rock ’n’ roll haunts, still going strong. In San Francisco, check out what’s on at the Fillmore, the Warfield, the Independent and Great American Music Hall. Just across the Bay Bridge, some of the best venues include the Fox and glorious Paramount Theater in Oakland, as well as Berkeley’s Greek Theatre—known simply as “the Greek.” Over the Golden Gate, Sweetwater Music Hall in Mill Valley, Marin County, often hosts well-known artists. Looking to rock it in LA? Check out the Troubadour, the Roxy and Whisky a Go Go, an LA institution since 1964. Some other legendary California venues include the Catalyst in Santa Cruz, the Casbah and “the Brick” (Brick by

Originally founded in 1969 by the late Clifford Vargas, Circus Vargas is California’s largest home-grown circus, featuring a vast Big Top that covers two acres and requires 30 people to put up and pull down. Quebec-based Cirque du Soleil is also a frequent visitor to the state, with scheduled appearances in most major cities. Teatro Zinzanni (“Love, Chaos, and Dinner”) sadly departed San Francisco’s waterfront in 2011, but the beloved dinner theater/vaudeville/cabaret is making plans to return in 2016. Check their website for re-opening news.

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MOVIES

BY JACQUELINE YAU

Shooting on Location Many of your favorite films were made in California, at a location near you

It’s the movies that have really been running things in America ever since they were invented. They show you what to do, how to do it, when to do it, how to feel about it, and how to look how you feel about it. —Andy Warhol

For decades, San Francisco has been a popular location for ﬁlms because of its breathtaking setting and beautiful architecture, as seen here on Lombard Street, the famous “crookedest street in the world.” Countless ﬁlms have been shot in the city and tours visit as many as 70 movie locations.

For more than a century, filmmakers

memorable quotes as, “Just one word…

have been inspired by California’s polyglot

plastics,” from The Graduate (1967) and

culture, striking landscapes and laid-back

Arnold Schwarzenegger’s line in The Ter-

lifestyle to create a breathless diversity of

minator (1984), “I’ll be back.” There’s a

movies representing the human condi-

symbiotic relationship between the film

tion. A Paramount Studio location map

industry and the state, and many cities

from 1927 shows what locations in Cali-

have benefited economically from films

fornia could stand in for places across the

shot in and around them.

country and around the world—from

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Wyoming cattle country to the Nile River

Film Locations by the Hundreds

to the Swiss Alps to Sherwood Forest in

So many movies have been filmed in Cali-

England. These movie-making master

fornia that cottage industries have cropped

illusionists have shaped perceptions

up guiding tourists to film locations. There

of the Golden State and influenced atti-

are hundreds of places to visit in Holly-

tudes and dress globally through such

wood and greater LA, the cradle of the

F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK

SAN FRANCISCO

HOLLYWOOD’S DOLBY THEATRE and Walk of Fame, right.

movie business. One of the better-kept secrets is Greystone Mansion and Park in Beverly Hills. This estate is part of a public park that sits on 16 acres of land and is the setting for dozens of movies, including Star Trek Into Darkness (2013), The Social

downtown Petaluma in Sonoma County,

Network (2010), the Spiderman series

and East of Eden (1955), filmed in Mendo-

(2002-2007) and X-Men (2000).

cino, or Some Like It Hot (1959) filmed at the

If you are hungry, snack on an apple

Hotel del Coronado in San Diego. Or you

fritter at Randy’s Donuts, the oft-filmed

want to retrace Tippi Hedren’s steps in

and iconic 24-hour drive-thru bakery, seen

Alfred Hitchcock’s iconic suspense film, The

in Iron Man 2 (2010) as protagonist Tony

Birds, shot in Bodega Bay and other parts of

Stark munches on the sweets reclining

Sonoma County and in San Francisco.

inside the giant donut sign. Take a tour of

Beyond these coastal film locations, the

the Walt Disney Concert Hall featured in

Sacramento River Delta has been used many

The Soloist (2009) in downtown Los

times as a movie location, especially as a

Angeles. Or join Dearly Departed Tours for

stand-in for the Mississippi Delta. In the late

their special Halloween Horror Film Loca-

1950s, at least seven major movies were

tion Tour around Hollywood and Pasadena.

filmed in the Stockton area, such as God’s

LA isn’t the only place movies are shot.

Little Acre, The Big Country (with Gregory

San Francisco has been the backdrop for

Peck and Charlton Heston), Miss Brooks,

countless films. San Francisco Movie Tours

Porgy and Bess (Sammy Davis, Jr. and Pearl

offers multiple tours. Its three-hour bus

Bailey), Cool Hand Luke (1967) starring Paul

excursion visits locations where 70 movie

Newman and Raiders of the Lost Ark (1981).

scenes from more than 55 movies were filmed (e.g., Vertigo, Mrs. Doubtfire, Basic

Studio Tours, TV Audiences & Extras

Instinct, The Rock, Contagion, The Pursuit of

Other ways to get a glimpse of the enter-

Happyness). Down the coast a bit, the Mon-

tainment business are to take a studio

terey Movie Tours winds through Monterey,

tour, attend a live taping of a TV show or

Pacific Grove and Carmel, spotlighting loca-

tions of other films; still farther south, a

Although there are movie studios in

more active tour put together by the Santa

other parts of California, including Pixar

Barbara Bicycle Coalition cycles along two

Animation Studios and Lucasfilm in the

Sideways (2004) routes. You can also devise

San Francisco Bay Area, most are located in

your own itinerary up and down the state

and around Los Angeles. Those that offer

and visit the locations of your favorite

behind-the-scenes studio tours include

movies shot in California.

Warner Bros. (peek into the costume and

Perhaps you’re nostalgic for classic films

prop room for the Harry Potter movies),

such as American Graffiti (1973), shot in

Universal (Hollywood’s most famous

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

MOVIES

TO » GO THE MOVIES

GATEWAY TO Universal Studios Hollywood, right.

MOVIE LOCATIONS Beverly Hills greystonemansion.org Inglewood randysdonuts.com Los Angeles hollywoodmovietours.com dearlydepartedtours.com ultimatehollywoodtours.com Monterey montereymovietours.com San Francisco sanfranciscomovietours.com Santa Barbara bikesantabarbara.org/rides/DIY/DIY.html Sonoma County sonomacounty.org/film/moviemap.htm Stockton riverboatdaves.com/docs/cmovies.html Regional Film Offices film.ca.gov Statewide movie-locations.com

world’s largest working movie studio), Sony Pictures (formerly the historic MGM studios famous for Gone with the Wind and The Wizard of Oz) and Paramount studios (the one remaining studio that is still located in Hollywood). Many movies that are shot on location outside LA also often

Watch a Movie

have scenes shot on a studio soundstage.

While in LA, consider doing what Ange-

Check for tickets before going on a studio

lenos love to do: watch movies. During the

tour because many require advance tick-

summer, enjoy a classic film under

eting or reservations. Ask your guide if you

starlight with the dead and the living at the

can take a peek into a current movie shoot

Hollywood Forever Cemetery, going on its

and you may spot a celebrity walking by.

15th season.

Game shows, talk shows and TV

Catch a movie where many directors

comedy shows often need a live audience.

screen their films and sometimes key off

Free studio audience tickets are handled

audience reactions to tweak a scene or two

through distributors such as On Camera

at the AMC/IMAX Century City 15 Theatres

Audiences and 1iota.

at Westfield Century City shopping center.

Becoming a film extra isn’t as easy as it

Pay homage to the pioneers of the motion

might seem. There are a number of services

picture era by watching a silent film on the

that do casting calls for extras such as Cen-

second Saturday of the month at The Silent

tral Casting in Los Angeles or Casting

Movie Theatre, a recently restored, Art

Networks in San Francisco. Often you are

Deco cultural landmark built in 1942.

required to sign up and provide a headshot.

When you next watch a movie filmed in

If you do get cast as an extra, it requires

the state, remember that not only are you

patience as you can stand around all day

experiencing the drama of life, you’re also

with nothing to do.

getting a taste of California.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

STUDIO TOURS Paramount paramountstudiotour.com Sony sonypicturesstudiostours.com Universal universalstudioshollywood.com Warner Bros. wbtour.com JOIN A STUDIO AUDIENCE On Camera Audiences on-camera-audiences.com 1iota 1iota.com Audience Associates tvtix.com Audiences Unlimited tvtickets.com BECOME AN EXTRA Central Casting centralcasting.com/LA/actors Casting Networks home.sfcasting.com/casting-calls Be in a Movie beinamovie.com FILM BUFF Hollywood Forever Cemetery summer movie screenings cinespia.org Pacific Film Archive bampfa.berkeley.edu The Silent Movie Theatre cinefamily.org/films/the-silent-treatment Street Food Cinema streetfoodcinema.com Westfield Century City westfield.com/centurycity/movies

SUPANNEE HICKMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK

backlot, 13 city blocks on four acres in the

RAILWAY JOURNEYS

BY JEFF GREENWALD & LAURIE WEED

Hear My Train a Comin’ All aboard for panoramic views and a blast of nostalgia

with train robbery reenactment) or take the whole family along for a relaxed holiday, you’re sure to find at least one train ride that shakes your caboose.

Amtrak Adventures The gold standard of California rail trips is arguably Amtrak’s Coast Starlight. Before crossing the border into Oregon, northbound passengers experience the full spectrum of California’s greatest hits. Whether you board at Los Angeles’ Union

AMTRAK Founded in 1971 to provide intercity passenger train service across the country, Amtrak serves 46 of the 50 states and three Canadian provinces on 21,000 miles (34,000 km) of track. Passengers enjoy themselves in the lounge car, above; the Coast Starlight passes Mount Shasta, above right.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Can you hear that whistle blow? His-

you’ll pass snow-capped peaks, gorgeous

toric, romantic, immortalized in legend

forests and shimmering shorelines. The

and song, a train journey goes beyond

full trip, from Los Angeles to Seattle (or

mere transportation—it’s an experience,

reverse), takes 35 hours.

one that recalls the Golden Age of travel.

But accolades for the “most beautiful

With the historic completion of the first

train trip in North America” are lavished on

transcontinental rail line in 1876, travelers

Amtrak’s California Zephyr, a 51-hour

could suddenly reach the 31 state from the

adventure linking the Bay Area with

East Coast in a seemingly magical four

Chicago. The daily departure boards in

days—a journey that previously took many

Emeryville (right across the bay from San

perilous weeks, even months, to complete.

Francisco) and crosses two mountain

California’s fame and fortune were built on

ranges—the Sierra Nevada to Reno, and the

those long lines of track, some would say,

Rockies to Denver—with unparalleled

and Californians still love their trains—not

vistas. You can also disembark at Truckee to

just for nostalgic reasons. There’s no better

explore Lake Tahoe, a stress-and-traffic-free

way to view the state’s magnificently

alternative to crawling over the summit in

diverse landscapes, from breathtaking

your own vehicle. If you’re drawn to a desert

coastal bluffs lapped by Pacific surf to red-

crossing, Amtrak’s Southwest Chief con-

wood forests, vast shimmering deserts,

nects LA with Chicago via the Mojave. The

alpine lakes and towering mountain peaks.

Sunset Limited/Texas Eagle—Amtrak’s most

Whether you prefer to sip fine Napa

southern route—joins LA with New Orleans

wines in a luxuriously restored Pullman

and Chicago via Tucson, San Antonio and

car, ride the rails Old West-style (complete

Houston.

AMTRAK

Station or Oakland’s Jack London Square,

RAILWAY JOURNEYS THE COAST STARLIGHT hugs the Paciﬁc north of Santa Barbara, right.

Three other popular California train routes are operated by Amtrak, all of which accommodate bicycles and offer free Wi-

ticket. Lunch trains run daily, with winery

days when logs harvested in the Sierras were

Fi service. The Capital Corridor, beloved by

tours available. For their frequent dinner

delivered to the fast-growing settlements in

business commuters, runs from San Jose

train schedule and popular special events,

the Central Valley.

to Auburn (via Sacramento), crossing the

please visit the website (see sidebar).

Second Childhood

state’s agricultural Central Valley. The

Departing from Woodland, the Sacra-

much more scenic Pacific Surfliner, a six-

mento RiverTrain features beer, wine, fine

Speaking of super-short train rides, a peren-

hour run that skirts the Pacific, joins San

food and live music as it follows the Sacra-

nial favorite is the Redwood Valley Railway

Luis Obispo and San Diego (via Santa Bar-

mento River on a three-hour, 32-mile trip.

in Tilden Park, Berkeley. The 12-minute

bara and Los Angeles). Travelers can

There are several specialty rides, including

ride—with hand-built steam locomotives

arrange trips to Yosemite via the San

Sunset Dinners, Great Train Robberies,

pulling open-bed flatcars—chugs through

Joaquin line to Fresno or Merced, where a

Beer Trains and Murder Mysteries.

rustic tunnels and around wooded curves,

waiting bus will ferry them to the national

Another option is the Sierra Dinner Train,

with (season permitting) panoramic views

park. The San Joaquin joins the San Fran-

which runs on one of several rail lines

of San Francisco Bay. Tickets are $3, a five-

cisco Bay Area and Oakland to Los Angeles

built in the late 19 century to link the

ride ticket only $12, and children under two

via Sacramento, Fresno and Bakersfield.

Gold Country with the Central Valley.

ride free. It’s a real family experience—even

Today, the excursion “provides visitors an

dogs are welcome!

Excursion Favorites

opportunity to travel on the historic Sierra

Until 1930, tourists visiting Mt. Tamal-

Railroad while enjoying a delicious meal,

pais—the Bay Area’s signature 2,574-foot

beautiful countryside and a wide range of

peak—could board the Mt. Tamalpais &

entertainment.” Passengers board in Oak-

Muir Woods Railway: “The Crookedest

dale, 90 miles east of San Francisco (70

Railroad in the World.” Though that line

miles south of Sacramento). Both the

was sadly dismantled, there are still plenty

Sacramento River and Sierra lines also

of unusual steam-and-theme excursions

offer Zombie Train experiences: “One part

available to the 21st-century traveler. These

passenger train, one part zombie killing

include Mendocino’s irresistible Skunk

machine.” Just sayin’.

Train. Starting at the coastal town of Fort Bragg, the Skunk navigates some 30

Historic Revivals

bridges, trestles and tunnels on its 40-mile

A variety of shorter train rides lace through

journey between Fort Bragg and Willits.

the California landscape, recreating (more or

Following an old redwood lumber delivery

less) a taste of what travel was like for settlers

route, it’s said to be one of the “Ten most

of the 1800s. Santa Cruz’s Roaring Camp

scenic train rides” in North America.

Railroad offers a Beach Train from Felton to

Book your tickets early for the popular

the Santa Cruz shore, or a steam train into

Napa Valley Wine Train, with three-hour

the Bear Mountain redwood forests. With

round trips in “meticulously restored rail

several trips daily plus a regular “Moonlight

cars” between Napa and St. Helena in Cali-

Special,” which includes a BBQ and campfire

fornia’s wine country. Enjoy a la carte or

sing-along, the narrow-gauge Yosemite

gourmet dining, depending on your class of

Mountain Sugar Pine Railroad recalls the

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AMTRAK

ROAD TRIPS BY JOHN FLINN

Get Behind the Wheel and Go

FAMOUS BRIDGES The Golden Gate Bridge, above, might be America’s most famous bridge, but it’s not alone when it comes to notable structures in California. The San Francisco Bay Bridge with its new eastern span is a breathtaking workhorse

Californians didn’t invent the car, but

there’s no doubt that the road that hugs the

they like to think, with some justification,

state’s remarkable coastline, often close

that they invented the automobile lifestyle.

enough to feel the salt spray, offers one of

With drive-thru grocery stores, drive-

the world’s classic driving trips.

linking SF and Oakland, and the

thru pharmacies, drive-thru churches and

From sun-splashed Southern California

Bixby Bridge in Big Sur, opposite,

even drive-thru mortuaries, one gets the

beaches to the misty redwood forests near

is emblematic of California’s

feeling that if Californians could only

the Oregon border, the journey, which

rugged coast and Highway 1.

invent a drive-thru delivery room they

includes a few stretches on other high-

could happily go from cradle to grave

ways, is a touch over 1,000 miles.

without ever having to pull over to the curb.

The sights are so numerous we can

California is a land of supersized dis-

barely scratch the surface: The Hotel Del

tances, jumbo landscapes and big-gulp

Coronado, where Marilyn Monroe frol-

vistas, and the best way to see it all is on a

icked in Some Like It Hot; classic surf

road trip, or, better yet, a series of road

breaks made famous by the Beach Boys;

trips. Here are a few of our favorites.

star-studded Malibu; Riviera-like Santa Barbara; Hearst Castle; Big Sur; Santa

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Up the Coast

Cruz, with its old-timey beach boardwalk;

Northern Californians call it “Highway 1”

San Francisco; Point Reyes National

and Southern Californians call it the “Pacific

Seashore; artsy Mendocino; Redwood

Coast Highway”—or, simply, the “PCH”—but

National Park.

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Explore California’s highways and byways

BIXBY BRIDGE on Highway 1, Big Sur, left; Hotel del Coronado, San Diego, below; you have two choices when you hit Highway 395, LA or Bishop, bottom.

A few tips: Allow far more time than you

Highway 395 grazes the shore of enor-

think you need; besides the frequent diver-

mous Mono Lake, which is so alkaline

sions, the road is so winding in places it’s

Mark Twain once joked he could do his

hard to average more than 30 miles per

laundry merely by dragging it behind him

hour. If you’re prone to carsickness, this

in a boat. In Bishop, the studio of the late

isn’t the trip for you. Keep your gas tank

photographer Galen Rowell has become a

full and your bladder empty. In some areas,

major attraction. Stop at Manzanar, just off

particularly Big Sur, it’s more than 40 miles

the highway, for a poignant visit to the site

between gas stations—and restrooms.

of a relocation camp for Americans of Japanese heritage during World War II. In

Cowboys & Indians

Lone Pine, the Indian Trading Post sports

East of the Sierra Nevada the green, popu-

autographs on the wall from Gary Cooper,

lated West Coast ends and the brown,

John Wayne and other cinematic cowboys

sagebrush-covered West begins. This is

who filmed Westerns in the nearby Ala-

the Old Frontier of our imagination, a

bama Hills.

realm of real cowboys and real Indians

A few tips: Springtime, when the Sierra

(and also, as we shall see, of cinematic

is still clad in snow, is the prettiest time for

cowboys and Indians.)

the drive, although some side trips may be

Highway 395 hugs the state’s eastern

limited. For an overnight stop, the town of

border, and the 264-mile stretch of high

Bishop offers the largest selection of

desert from Reno to Lone Pine, which

motels and restaurants.

passes

tumbleweeds,

swinging-door

saloons and ghost towns beneath the breathtakingly sheer eastern wall of the Sierra Nevada, is one of California’s most iconic drives. The northern stretch traverses ranchland that was once—and sometimes still is—the domain of Basque sheepherders, and in the town of Gardnerville, just over the border in Nevada, you have your choice of excellent Basque restaurants. As you drive south, keep an eye out for cowboys, although these days they’re as likely to be riding an all-terrain vehicle as a horse. Farther south, as you approach Mono Lake, you’ll probably encounter members of the Washoe and Paiute tribes.

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ROAD TRIPS AN F-LINE HISTORIC streetcar passes the Ferry Building on the Embarcadero, San Francisco, below; a passenger ship docks at San Francisco’s cruise ship terminal, right; Dodger Stadium in Los Angeles, opposite top; San Diego from Seaport Village, opposite bottom.

of San Francisco’s skyscrapers you’ll come to Muir Woods National Monument, a cathedral-like preserve of old-growth redwoods at the foot of Mount Tamalpais. Follow Highway 1 to Point Reyes National Seashore, where you might catch tule elk grazing on misty hillsides above the waveorganic farms, artisanal bakeries and gourmet cheesemakers, is the breadbasket for San Francisco’s foodie culture. Stop for lunch at the Hog Island Oyster Farm, where you can munch on bivalve mollusks pulled straight out of Tomales Bay. The long, narrow bay, incidentally, is a submerged section of the notorious San Andreas Fault. Farther north on Highway 1 you’ll come to Bodega Bay, a sleepy fishing village where Alfred Hitchcock unleashed avian terror in The Birds. The Tides restaurant, where terrified townspeople took shelter, is still there, although hardly recognizable in its

PICK YOUR HIGHWAY

CA-1 The Coast pacific-coast-highway-travel.com US-395 Eastern Sierra aaroads.com/California/us-395_ca

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Day Trips

current form. A few miles inland, in the

You don’t have to spend days or weeks on

separate town of Bodega, you can find the

the highway to see the best of California.

familiar schoolhouse and church from the

Within easy reach of major cities are exqui-

movie. Continue on to Sebastopol,

site road trips you can do in less than a day.

renowned for its juicy Gravenstein apples and an outpost of Sonoma County’s wine

San Francisco

country. Turn south on Highway 101 and

Head north, across the Golden Gate Bridge,

head back to San Francisco, stopping for a

to sample some of Northern California’s

celebratory cocktail in Sausalito, with the

most bucolic scenery. Almost within sight

lights of the city twinkling across the bay.

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battered coast. West Marin County, with its

Los Angeles On a day trip along the Angeles Crest Scenic Byway you’re more likely to spot a bighorn sheep than a Kardashian. As you wind up and over narrow ridgetops in the San Gabriel Mountains, above the smog, your vistas can range from the vast, chocolatebrown Mojave Desert to Catalina Island. Also known as State Highway 2, the 66mile-long Angeles Crest Scenic Byway was built 100 years ago to be “the most scenic and picturesque mountain road in the state.” Access it from the suburb of La Canada Flintridge at the western end of the San Gabriel Valley. The popular side-trip

you step out of your car. Stop for a slice,

A local landowner commissioned artist

hike to the summit of 6,164-foot Strawberry

just out of the oven, warm and gooey with

Ricardo Arroyo Breceda to produce more

Peak reopened in 2014 after being closed

a scoop of French vanilla ice cream. The air

than 130 giant sculptures in the desert,

since 2009 due to a fire. As you drive east

here is so clean, and the views so exten-

everything from life-size replicas of gom-

on the narrow two-lane road, keep an eye

sive, that the California Institute of

photheres (elephant-like creatures that

out for bears, mountain lions and bighorn

Technology built the Palomar Observatory

once lived there) to prehistoric camels and

sheep. Another side trip brings you to the

a few miles away. Continue east, downhill,

ground sloths to scenes from California

Mount

where

on Highway 78 to Anza-Borrego Desert

history: a Spanish padre, a gold miner and

astronomers found the first observational

State Park, a 937-square-mile preserve that

farmworkers. One of the latest is the

evidence for the Big Bang theory. If you’ve

encompasses the eastern fifth of San

undisputed highlight: an enormous sea

brought along your fishing rod, try your

Diego County. If it’s spring, and the winter

serpent that undulates so far across the

luck in Little Rock Creek near the Mt.

has been wet, you’ll be treated to one of

desert that it spans one of the main roads.

Waterman Ski Resort. Farther east, the road

the most vivid and sweeping displays of

From here you can retrace your route or

crosses the 2,665-mile-long Pacific Crest

wildflowers in the United States. If the

take the long way home via the Salton Sea

National Scenic Trail: From here you can

flowers aren’t up, there’s still plenty to see.

and Palm Springs.

Wilson

Observatory,

hike south to Mexico or north to Canada. From the road’s end at Highway 138, head southeast to Interstate 15, which will whisk you back to the Los Angeles Basin.

San Diego Cross the Palomar Mountains to soak up the vast and colorful Anza-Borrego desert on a daylong drive from San Diego. Make your way north on I-15 and east to Ramona, and then continue on to the ridgetop town of Julian. A beautifully preserved relic of an 1870s gold rush, Julian these days is renowned for apples. You’ll smell the aroma of baking pies as soon as

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STATE & NATIONAL PARKS

BY BONNIE SMETTS

Stay and Play

YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK First protected by Abraham Lincoln in 1864, then championed by John Muir to become a national park in 1890, Yosemite is one of America’s most beloved and visited national parks. It is known for its soaring granite cliﬀs and majestic waterfalls as well as some of the country’s most dramatic and accessible backcountry wilderness. Yosemite Valley, where most visitors spend much of their time, has a wide range of recreational activities, including cycling to see the sights, the best way to get around.

Make friends with banana slugs on a

something for everyone. Come in spring

tour of the redwoods. Snorkel through a

when the waterfalls thunder to the valley

kelp forest at an offshore island.

floor. Come in summer when the park is

Thrill at the sight of a rare condor

abuzz with visitors to explore by tram, bike

floating above the spires of California’s

or on foot. Choose a gentle half-hour hike

newest park. Whatever your passion, Cal-

or reserve a spot for the all-day climb of

ifornia’s 279 state parks and 32 national

Half Dome. Junior Ranger Walks are pop-

parks, seashores and monuments—

ular with kids. Backpackers can enjoy the

whose mission is to protect the state’s

solitude of the park’s high country and

natural and cultural treasures—are the

expert rock climbers have dozens of

gateway to experiences as varied as the

granite walls to scale. Don’t leave the park

state’s geography.

without stopping at Glacier Point with its views of Half Dome and Yosemite Valley or

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Yosemite & the Sierra Nevada

at the Mariposa Grove of giant sequoias to

Yosemite National Park, with its glacier-

marvel at its 2,700-year-old Grizzly Giant.

sculpted valley and granite peaks, has

To see a really big tree—the world’s

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Spend a day or fill a week exploring California’s natural grandeur

EMERALD BAY, LAKE TAHOE, left; giant sequoia forest, below, and a California black bear, bottom, both in Redwood National and State Parks.

largest by volume—head south to Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks and marvel at the weighty General Sherman. While still in the mountains, take a trip to Lake Tahoe, North America’s largest alpine lake. Along the lake’s west shore, D.L. Bliss, Emerald Bay and Sugar Pine Point state parks offer camping, hiking and white sand beaches. Farther north at Lassen Volcanic National Park, watch California take shape in the roaring fumaroles, thumping mud pots and boiling pools.

Giants in the Mist While the Sierras are home to the heftiest redwoods, the state’s fog-shrouded coastal range from Oregon to Big Sur boasts the loftiest—several are taller than the Statue

Farther north and closer to the coast, the

of Liberty. These rare trees, once logged to

Redwood National and State Parks is a col-

near extinction, are now protected within

lection of four parks with miles of

California’s redwood parks.

unspoiled coast and hiking trails. The

At Humboldt Redwoods State Park,

tallest recorded Coast Redwood hides here,

home to the largest continuous old growth

its location kept secret to protect it. How-

redwood forest on earth, drive the 31-mile

ever, you can visit the remote Tall Trees

Avenue of the Giants and make stops along

Grove if you have a day to spare and want

the way to stroll among the titans.

to nab one of the 50 daily permits. But all

Founders Grove with its majestic 346-foot

the parks provide easy access to magnifi-

specimen is always a favorite. Visit in

cent groves as well as picnic sites,

spring to see the pink redwood lilies and

campgrounds and trails for hikers, cyclists

purple calypso orchids in bloom.

and horses.

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STATE & NATIONAL PARKS Burning Sands & Delicate Wildflowers Miles from the coast, California’s deserts are lands of extremes. Vast Death Valley National Park holds the record for the hottest temperature, driest climate and lowest elevation in North America. It is also famous for its explosion of wildflowers after winter rains. For a bird’s-eye panorama, stop at Dante’s View. On the valley floor, walk the Badwater Salt Flats or take an afternoon drive to Zabriskie Point to snap the garishly colored badlands. At Scotty’s Castle, take a living-history tour to sample the life of one of the valley’s most colorful settlers. Trips to Titus Canyon and the Racetrack take you deeper into the with proper vehicles and preparation. Furnace Creek Campground, one of nine in the park, with sites for RVs, groups and tents, makes for a central location for exploring the park. Because of favorable weather and temperatures, fall to spring is the park’s busiest time. The Mojave National Preserve is famous for its singing sand dunes and seven-million-year-old volcanic cinder cones. Joshua Tree National Park, a favorite with rock climbers, mountain bikers and birders, is home to the gangly tree that gives the park its name. While both have spring wildflower displays, Anza-Borrego Desert State Park is legendary. Its flowers are usually the first to burst into color—catching the park’s cactus bloom is the prize.

To the Beach JOSHUA TREES in, appropriately, Joshua Tree National Park, above; blooming barrel cacti in Mojave National Preserve, right.

A visit to California is incomplete without spending time on the beach, but not all of them are the iconic white sandy kind. You will find black sand at Sinkyone Wilderness State Park on the north coast. At the Mendocino Headlands State Park, bundle up and enjoy a beach walk with a view of the Victorian village.

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CHRIS GRANT/SHUTTERSTOCK; ANTON FOLTIN/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: RANDY ANDY/SHUTTERSTOCK; LUCKY-PHOTOGRAPHER/SHUTTERSTOCK

park’s unique landscape, but only for those

BROWN PELICANS on the rugged Big Sur coastline near Cambria, below; dining room and table settings at Hearst Castle, San Simeon, right.

Closer to San Francisco, the sweeping arc of Point Reyes National Seashore is home to a dozen beaches, with drive-up Drakes Beach and hike-in Limantour as

Rocks to Castles

Hollywood stars who gathered there. Also

favorites. Make your way to park headlands

California is more than its geography.

at mid state, climbers and birders will not

in early spring to view the gray whale

Living history programs bring the past to

be disappointed at Pinnacles, California’s

migration. Edging the entrance to San

life in many parks. Indian Grinding Rock

newest national park.

Francisco Bay, the beaches and cliff trails

State Historic Park features a reconstructed

Whatever kind of experience you seek,

of the Golden Gate National Recreation

village with a ceremonial roundhouse and

from a city adventure to a high country

Area are the gateways to urban adventures

presentations by descendants of the

trek, California’s parks have just what

and historic sights such as Alcatraz Island.

Miwoks. The 21 missions founded by the

you’re looking for.

Continuing down the coast to Santa

Spanish along El Camino Real, or the

Cruz and Monterey, surfing spots alternate

King’s Highway, preserve the arrival of

with quiet coves home to sea otters and

non-natives to California. Imagine mis-

seals. At Año Nuevo State Reserve, witness

sion life at La Purisima Mission State

elephant seals in breeding season. In

Historic Park, one of the best along the His-

Carmel, whose beauty has been long

toric Mission Trail. Old Town San Diego

favored by plein air artists, Point Lobos

State Historic Park, with its restored plaza

State Natural Reserve is a must-visit for

and adobes, captures the period when San

everyone. Big Sur’s Julia Pfeiffer Burns

Diego grew from a Mexican pueblo into an

State Park offers stunning views of the

American town. And then there’s gold

rugged coast from its cliff-side trails.

fever. Pan for gold at Marshall Gold Dis-

Access to Pfeiffer Beach, a day beach, is just

covery State Historic Park where the

south of the Big Sur Ranger Station.

mineral was first discovered. Visualize a

At mid coast, rocky cliffs finally give way to warm water and California’s famous

miner’s life at Bodie State Historic Park, an intact ghost town from the era.

endless flat beaches. Movie buffs can camp

No place reflects California’s big

at Malibu Creek State Park where M*A*S*H

dreamers better than the Hearst San

and Planet of the Apes were filmed. And

Simeon State Historical Monument, a tes-

then there’s Huntington Beach, aka Surf

tament to publisher William Randolph

City USA. Huntington State Beach’s soft

Hearst and architect Julia Morgan. Tour

sand, safe swimming and good surfing

the 115-room castle and imagine the

make it the California classic.

presidents, publishing luminaries and

» FIND YOUR PARK Individual State Parks parks.ca.gov National Parks nps.gov/state/CA Campsites & Lodging Reservations reserveamerica.com recreation.gov Lighthouses (many open to the public, some offering accommodations) nps.gov/maritime/inventories/ lights/ca.htm Wildflower Updates at Anza-Borrego Desert State Park Wildflower Hotline 760-767-4684 Or check the park’s website at parks.ca.gov.

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ARCHITECTURE & GARDENS

BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

Building in Harmony Californians have always embraced the new and environmentally attuned

sons and, of course, worship. Today, you can find information about all things Mission online at the California Missions Resource Center.

Missions to Victorians to Beaux Arts The missions influenced California architecture and design for years to come. The abundant open spaces, arches, tile-roofed buildings and breezy arcades of Stanford University’s main quad are legacies of the Mission colonial era. The ornately and eclectically elaborated Casa de Balboa, in San Diego’s Balboa Park, incorporates elements of the Mission Revival style. The

FILOLI

Architecture in California and the lush

splendid 1927 San Gabriel Mission Play-

Sixteen acres of formal gardens surround the country house known as Filoli, designed by Willis Polk and built for William Bowers Bourn III in 1917. The site is now owned by the National Trust for Historic Preservation and is a California Historical Landmark and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

public gardens that add grace notes to the

house is a direct architectural descendant

Golden State began to take shape in the late

of the missions.

18 century, when the Spanish advanced

By the 1860s, long, deep, narrow, high-

north from Mexico City to the rustic,

ceilinged wooden row houses populated

remote province of Alta California.

boomtowns like San Francisco. The Victo-

The California missions, 21 Roman Catholic churches built from 1769 to 1823 on a north-south axis, set the tone. The adobewalled, orange-tile-roofed churches erected by the Franciscan friars eventually formed the heart of major cities such as San Diego, Los Angeles and San Francisco. The missions’ gardens were strictly utilitarian, intended to produce food. Eye-pleasing garden design blossomed later. The Spanish-flavored colonial buildings fell into disrepair after the newly independent Mexican government desanctified them. After moldering for years, many were reconstructed in the 20th century, opening to the public for tours, history les-

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RAFAEL RAMIREZ LEE/SHUTTERSTOCK; MR. INTERIOR/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: CHUCK B./CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; RANDY ANDY/SHUTTERSTOCK

THE DE YOUNG MUSEUM, San Francisco, below; Walt Disney Concert Hall, Los Angeles, right; Montgomery Street and the Transamerica Pyramid, San Francisco, previous page, bottom.

rians were built from the 1860s to the

fornians’ deep feeling for nature. Such

Frank Gehry’s brilliantly realized 2003

1910s. In the 1970s, the once-modest

buildings, exemplified by the 1908 Gamble

Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles,

houses were reborn as gentrified, vibrantly

House in Pasadena, seemed to grow organ-

with its swooping roofs and shining metallic

hued Painted Ladies. Surviving California

ically out of the earth. The cedar brown

exterior, is a fantasia that couldn’t have been

Victorians are especially numerous in San

shingle wooden homes of Berkeley, fea-

designed without sophisticated computers

Francisco, clustered on Alamo Square and

tured on Berkeley Architecture Heritage

or built without modern alloys. The perfo-

in the Haight-Ashbury, Western Addition

Association walking tours, are pleasing

rated copper exterior of San Francisco’s 2005

and Mission districts. Urban eye candy,

examples of the American Arts and Crafts

de Young Museum is of a piece with the con-

they are featured on City Guides San Fran-

style. Berkeley affords glimpses of the Bay

temporary, cutting edge work inside. For an

cisco walking tours.

Region style, a version of Arts and Crafts

artful fusion of modern technique and nat-

practiced by Bay Area architects Bernard

uralism, the environmentally attuned 2008

Maybeck and Julia Morgan.

home of the California Academy of Sciences

By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, other, newer styles began catching on in California.

The streamlined power of early 20th-

in Golden Gate Park is a must-see.

Beaux Arts architecture lent grandeur to

century technology found mesmerizing

citadels of commerce and government

form in the Art Deco style of the 1920s and

Gardens North & South

buildings, bequeathing to San Francisco its

1930s. Perhaps the noblest example of Art

Major formal public gardens in the

majestic, domed 1915 City Hall, and the

Deco in North America is the 1937 Golden

modern sense blossomed in California in

classically graceful, open-air Palace of Fine

Gate Bridge. With its taut suspension

the early 20th century, often in association

Arts. But Beaux Arts was a European

cables, thrusting towers and trademark

with great private fortunes, enormous

import, not essentially Californian.

International Orange color, the Golden

mansions and expansive public parks.

Gate Bridge dramatizes the energy, ambi-

Arts & Crafts to Computer Contemporary

tion and power of Art Deco.

The Asian splendor of Hakone Garden, opened in Saratoga in 1915, showed the way.

American Arts and Crafts became closely

The next breakthrough for architecture

Hailed as the oldest Japanese and Asian

associated with California at the turn of

in California came around the turn of the

estate garden in the Americas, Hakone is a

the 20 century. The use of natural mate-

new millennium with what could be called

loving replica of a traditional Samurai or

rials such as warm, burnished wood panels

Computer Contemporary style. Here, too,

Shogun estate garden. Spreading over 18

and beams, glass and stone reflected Cali-

the Golden State shines.

hilly acres, serene Hakone Garden is

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ARCHITECTURE & GARDENS quick succession, more major public gardens followed. Among them: 654-acre Filoli, nestled in the hills of Woodside south of San Francisco. Debuting in 1975, Filoli is known for CONSERVATORY of Flowers, San Francisco,

lovely paths and ponds, a charming rose

right; roses in the Huntington Botanical

garden, 250-year-old live oak trees and

Gardens, Pasadena, bottom.

16th-century English Renaissance Garden. In 1985, Palo Alto opened its 2.5-acre Elizabeth F. Gamble Garden. In 1993, the former

known for koi ponds, waterfalls and

was opened in 1956 in aptly named

estate of Polish opera singer and socialite

strolling and meditative walks.

Arcadia, with a lovely waterfall, Queen

Ganna Walska opened near Santa Barbara

Anne cottage and garden of perennials.

as Lotusland, featuring fruit orchards, a

By mid century, great gardens were

decorative Spanish Colonial Revival man-

blooming around the state. The Mendo-

Each garden has its own charms and par-

sion, a style still hugely popular in host

cino Coast Botanical Gardens (1961) shows

ticularities, but every one shares California’s

city Santa Barbara. Today, the estate is

off an inspired profusion of blooms on

passionate embrace of the new, the innova-

also celebrated for its Moorish garden

winding Highway 1 at Fort Bragg. In fairly

tive and the environmentally attuned.

succulent garden and a butterfly garden.

with its water fountain and hedged outdoors “rooms.” Both Los Angeles and San Francisco host

distinguished

public

botanical

» FIND YOUR STYLE & DESIGN

gardens. San Francisco debuted the erstwhile Strybing Arboretum in 1940 on 55 acres in Golden Gate Park. Now called San Francisco Botanical Garden, it is renowned for its rhododendron glen, magnolia collection, redwood grove and native California plants. The Los Angeles County Arboretum and Botanic Garden

ARCHITECTURE California Missions Resource Center missionscalifornia.com Main Quad, Stanford University stanford.edu/dept/visitorinfo/tours Casa de Balboa balboapark.org San Gabriel Mission Playhouse missionplayhouse.org Walking Tours of San Francisco sfcityguides.org The Gamble House gamblehouse.org Maybeck Houses Tour of Berkeley (Berkeley Architectural Heritage Association) berkeleyheritage.com

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de Young Museum deyoung.famsf.org GARDENS Hakone Garden hakone.com Casa del Herrero, House of the Blacksmith casadelherrero.com San Francisco Botanical Garden (formerly Strybing Arboretum) sfbotanicalgarden.org Los Angeles County Arboretum & Botanic Garden arboretum.org Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens gardenbythesea.org Filoli ﬁloli.org

Golden Gate Bridge goldengatebridge.org

Elizabeth F. Gamble Garden gamblegarden.org

Walt Disney Concert Hall laphil.com

Ganna Walska Lotusland lotusland.org

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A decade later, in 1925, Casa del Herrero (House of the Blacksmith) opened its

GOLF BY ROBERT KAUFMAN

Golden Glow to California’s Golf Courses Diverse geography provides a cornucopia of options to tee up

Ever since the game of golf originated in

On that note, the good news for Cali-

the 15th century, the sport has continued to

fornia golfers is there are more than 600

thrive with cooperation from an assort-

public courses offering a broad range of

ment of landscapes to test player’s skills,

iconic masterpieces like Pebble Beach Golf

and nowhere is that diversity more distinct

Links to hidden gems like Greenhorn

than throughout California. Mother Nature

Creek Golf Course in the Gold Country. The

has bestowed this land of mountains, val-

bad news is there are too many choices!

leys, forests, coastline and desert with a

Therefore, depending upon one’s level of

heavenly canvas to provide a foundation of

golf and preferred environment, here are

fairways and greens that make the Golden

some notable nuggets that will help unlock

several other top golf courses,

State one of the most attractive golf desti-

a golf experience of a lifetime.

including Spyglass Hill, the Links at

nations on the planet.

MONTEREY PENINSULA One of the world’s top golf destinations, the Monterey Peninsula is home to the legendary Pebble Beach Golf Links, above, as well as

Spanish Bay, Poppy Hills and Paciﬁc

To take advantage of these geological

OCEAN COURSES

Grove Golf Links, fondly known as

assets, a who’s-who of golf course archi-

Pebble Beach Golf Links

the “poor man’s Pebble Beach.”

tects, from old-school designers like

Located along the storied Monterey Penin-

Alister MacKenzie, A.W. Tillinghast and

sula, there are few golf thrills like

Willie Watson to modern-day shapers such

teeing-up for the first time on Pebble

as Jack Nicklaus, Robert Trent Jones, Sr. &

Beach Golf Links, ranked No. 1 on Golf

Jr., Arnold Palmer and Tom Fazio have

Digest’s “America’s 100 Greatest Public Golf

crafted their mark with challenges to suit

Courses” (2013/14). At the Jack Neville/

every golfer’s taste and budget.

Douglas Grant design (1919), golfers can

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

GOLF WHITEHAWK RANCH GOLF CLUB, below; Presidio Golf Course, bottom.

feel the presence of the game’s biggest leg-

MOUNTAIN COURSES

ends that have competed in the annual

Whitehawk Ranch Golf Club

AT&T Pebble Beach National Pro-Am and

Carved from the natural terrain of the

five U.S. Open Championships. Jack Nick-

Mohawk Valley, approximately one hour

laus said, “If I only had one more round to

north of Lake Tahoe in the Plumas National

play, I would choose to play it at Pebble

Forest, the fairways are framed with native

Beach.” pebblebeach.com

grasses and a profusion of wildflowers. Seven meandering streams through tall

Spyglass Hill Golf Course Taking

page

from

pines, cedars, firs and quaking aspens conRobert

Louis

tribute to the challenge and beauty of the

Stevenson’s classic novel, Treasure Island,

6,955-yard, Dick Bailey-designed course.

Spyglass has hole names such as “Black

golfwhitehawk.com

Dog” and “Billy Bones,” hints for the unwary at this demanding 6,960-yard

Coyote Moon Golf Course

layout. Designed (1966) by Robert Trent

Nestled in a serene setting at 6,800 feet above

Jones, Sr., holes 6, 8 and 16 are listed

sea level in Truckee (Lake Tahoe) among

among the toughest on the PGA Tour. Spy-

towering pines and enormous granite out-

glass features two distinctly different

croppings, the 7,177-yard Brad Bell design

kinds of terrain that influence how the

serves up one of the best mountain golf expe-

fairways look and play: the first five holes

riences in the country. With generous

roll through sandy seaside dunes while the

fairways and not a single home to spoil the

remaining 13 holes cut through majestic

dramatic views, this upscale daily-fee course

pines with elevated greens and strategi-

provides

dramatic

elements

risk,

cally placed bunkers and lakes to grab

including the 13 , a 200-yard par 3 that drops

errant shots. pebblebeach.com

80 feet from tee to green. coyotemoongolf.com

DESERT COURSES PGA West—TPC Stadium Course Since opening in 1986, the TPC Stadium Course in La Quinta has been rated one of the “Top 100 Courses in the World” by GOLF Magazine. This 7,300-yard challenge designed by Pete Dye hosts PGA Tour “QSchool” Finals every other year with players having to navigate cavernous bunkers, an island green (known as “Alcatraz”) at hole #17 as well as the menacing water-lined 18th. Named “Stadium” due to Dye’s ingenious plan to sculpt spectator most memorable events includes Lee Trevino’s hole-in-one on #17 earning him $175,000 from a carry-over skin in the 1987 “Skins Game.” pgawest.com

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

ROBERT KAUFMAN

seating into the natural terrain, one of the

» FIND YOUR GOLF

TPC HARDING PARK, right; Pasatiempo Golf Club, below.

MORE TOP CHOICES Old Greenwood oldgreenwoodgolf.com Edgewood Tahoe Golf Course edgewoodtahoe.com Greenhorn Creek Golf Course greenhorncreek.com Sierra Star Golf Club mammothmountain.com/summer/ golf/sierra-star-golf-course The Links at Bodega Harbour bodegaharbourgolf.com Yocha Dehe Golf Club yochadehegolfclub.com Windsor Golf Club windsorgolf.com Chardonnay Golf Club chardonnaygolfclub.com

Indian Wells Golf Resort

The memorable layout hosts the annual

Only 20 minutes from Palm Springs Inter-

LPGA Kia Classic and rewards all golfers

national

the

with Tootsie Roll Pops during the round

opportunity to play the newly transformed

and chocolate chip cookies after. Golfers

Players Course (John Fought, 2007) and

can also get a tune-up at the nationally

Celebrity Course (Clive Clark, 2006), at a

ranked Kip Puterbaugh Golf Academy.

property with the distinction of being the

golfaviara.com

Airport,

golfers

have

only 36-hole public golf facility with both courses on Golfweek’s “Best Courses You

TPC Harding Park

Can Play” in California. Combined with a

Traversing a gently rolling peninsula sur-

lighted, 9-hole, natural grass putting

rounded by Monterey Cypress trees and

course and a brand new 53,000-square-

Lake Merced in San Francisco, the 7,169-

foot

golf

yard layout follows the original routing

experience in the desert is unparalleled.

designed in 1925 by architects Willie

indianwellsgolfresort.com

Watson and Sam Whiting. Also included is

clubhouse,

this

“muni”

the interior 9-hole Fleming Course. In

PARKLAND COURSES

2005, Harding’s strategy and character was

Aviara Golf Club

substantially enhanced with additional

Located in Carlsbad, the “Golf Manufac-

bunkers, re-contoured green complexes

turing Capital of the World” with more

and an additional 400 yards to prepare the

than 35 golf companies, including Call-

course for PGA Tour action that, so far, has

away, TaylorMade and Titleist, the Arnold

included the 2009 Presidents Cup, 2005

Palmer-designed Aviara GC overlooks the

WGC-American Express Championship

Batiquitos Lagoon nature preserve where

and 2015 WGC Match Play. Harding’s rich

it is sculpted around rolling hillsides com-

history continues in 2020 with the PGA

plemented with native wildflowers and

Championship, and the Presidents Cup in

plenty of bunker and water challenges.

2025. tpc.com/tpc-harding-park.

Presidio Golf Course presidiogolf.com The Course at Wente Vineyards wentevineyards.com/course Pasatiempo Golf Course pasatiempo.com Bayonet & Black Horse Golf Courses bbhgolf.com Alisal Guest Ranch & Resort alisal.com La Purisima Golf Course lapurisimagolf.com Sandpiper Golf Course sandpipergolf.com Pelican Hill Golf Club golfpelicanhill.com Rustic Canyon Golf Course rusticcanyongolfcourse.com Journey at Pechanga pechanga.com/golf Tustin Ranch Golf Club tustinranchgolf.com Torrey Pines Golf Course torreypinesgolfcourse.com La Costa Resort & Spa omnihotels.com/hotels/san-diego-lacosta/golf The Grand Golf Club fairmont.com/san-diego/golf The Classic Club classicclubgolf.com Tahquitz Creek Golf Resort tahquitzgolfresort.com

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SUMMER SPORTS

BY BILL FINK

Fun in the Sun

BEACH VOLLEYBALL The de facto state sport on California’s 840 miles of coastline has to be beach volleyball. Players of all skill levels up and down the coast jump in for informal games, such as this foursome at Huntington Beach, above. It’s generally accepted that California beach volleyball began in Santa Monica in the 1920s, then grew more organized with competitions over the decades, and eventually became an Olympic sport in 1996.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

The California ideal of sun, surf and sand

the Strand. Drive the hills near San Fran-

has been popularized in decades of film

cisco on a sunny day, and in a matter of

and TV shows, from Beach Blanket Bingo to

minutes you’ll pass pelotons of road bikers,

Baywatch. But visitors to California in the

and hikers, horseback riders and mountain

summer can discover even more of the

bikers launching onto trailheads. In the

state’s natural beauty heading inland to

shadow of the Golden Gate Bridge, fleets of

majestic national parks.

sailboats ride ocean breezes, while the wind powers kiteboarders and windsurfers

Sports

into acrobatics as mellow joggers and their

Take a walk to the pier in Manhattan Beach

dogs enjoy the spectacle from shoreline

in Southern California on any given day

pathways. North and south, young and old,

and you’ll see surfers whipping around the

Californians love their sports, and the state

waves, volleyball players diving in the sand,

provides limitless opportunities to ply your

and bikers and skateboarders rolling along

favorite or try a new one.

HUNTINGTON BEACH CVB. OPPOSITE: RON BERG; TRINITY COUNTY; RACHAEL GOLDBERG/SHUTTERSTOCK

California’s summer sunshine, seashores and soaring mountain summits serve as inspiration to get outdoors and play

SURFERS AT SANTA BARBARA beach, right; river rafting in Trinity County, center; mountain biker near San Francisco, bottom.

On Land California has some of the world’s best golf, including the legendary seaside Pebble Beach Golf Links, home of Bill Murray’s favorite annual event, the AT&T National Pro-Am tournament. Or try any one of the hundreds of public and private clubs scattered across the state. If you aren’t into the clubs, grab a frisbee and try some disc golf at one of the more than 200 California courses. Mountain and road biking are great ways to get a workout while experiencing the state’s landscape, whether it be from tricky single-track downhill trails around Lake Tahoe, flatter cross-country trips or perhaps a rental in San Francisco’s new Bike Share program. Skateboarding is practically the state sport, with skateparks seen everywhere from the sport’s birthplace at Venice Beach to the smallest inland town. For a different sort of ride, make like native son John Wayne and saddle up for some horseback riding on trails near cities, around dude ranches or on multi-day wilderness journeys. If desert sands don’t appeal to you, try those on the beaches of Southern California that are lined with volleyball nets for pickup games and professional tournaments. California sunshine is also good for year-round tennis, be it on public courts or at a posh resort.

In Water California has more than 840 miles of coastline along the Pacific Ocean, a prime launching spot for every manner of water sport, including surfing, sailing, SCUBA and sea kayaking. California has fully

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

SUMMER SPORTS

THE LINKS at Terranea Resort, above; hiking at Castle Crags, Shasta County, right.

embraced stand-up paddle boarding, with

Beach. Marinas dot the coast from north to

paths of Muir Woods, easily accessible

many rental shops bordering lakes and the

south, where experienced sailors can rent

from nearby San Francisco.

ocean. Catalina Island and the kelp forests

power yachts for deep-sea fishing or sail-

of Monterey Bay are popular diving spots,

boats to ride the winds.

A trip to the bubbling volcanic pools at Lassen Volcanic National Park or to the Dr.

but be sure to wear a wetsuit in the chilly

Moving inland, gentle streams and scat-

Seuss-like trees of Joshua Tree can make

Pacific waters. Surf breaks range from 50-

tered lakes provide fertile sport-fishing

visitors feel they’re on another planet,

foot monster waves in Half Moon Bay to

grounds, while melting mountain snow

while sunset in Yosemite Valley with views

more gentle rollers around Manhattan

can create raging rapids for kayaking and

of towering waterfalls can make it seem

rafting enthusiasts, but those looking for a

like you’re in heaven.

Biking bikecal.com labikepaths.com sfbike.org Boating dbw.ca.gov Climbing mountainproject.com/v/ California/105708959 rockclimbing.org Golf pga.com/golf-courses/details/CA Disc Golf pdga.com Horseback Riding horseandtravel.com/states/california Surfing surfingcalifornia.com

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

California’s many mountains mean

beer cooler can still find their spots.

climbing is a popular activity, be it a hike

Boating is popular with waterskiers and

up 14,505-foot Mount Whitney (the highest

wakeboarders across the Sacramento Delta

point in the continental U.S.) or technical

and at a huge number of marinas on lakes

rock climbing routes from the easy to the

and reservoirs throughout the state.

extreme in legendary areas such as Yosemite, Joshua Tree and Pinnacles

The Great Outdoors

national parks.

California boasts 32 national parks,

California’s state flag features a bear,

seashores and monuments, 279 state parks

and you may see some among the wildlife

and a plethora of wilderness areas, nature

during your outdoor journeys. Black bears,

preserves and other outdoor playgrounds.

mountain lions, rattlesnakes and coyotes

With landscapes ranging from the sheer

put the “wild” in California wildlife, but

cliffs of Yosemite to the searing deserts of

careful visitors should have no problem

Death Valley and the scenic shorelines of

with them. Abundant migratory and native

the Channel Islands, California offers a

birdlife makes California a prime birding

lifetime of outdoor opportunities for the

destination, while at sea, whale watching

visitor. Exploration options range from

is a perennial tourist favorite. Even

multi-day backpacking trips for the hardy

without an organized tour, visitors can

in remote areas such as Lake Tahoe’s Des-

walk to view sea lions on San Francisco

olation Wilderness to relaxed, hour-long

and Santa Cruz piers, and observe sea

walking tours through the gentle winding

otters playing in the surf at Monterey.

TERRANEA RESORT; SHASTA COUNTY

FIND YOUR FUN

gentle river float on an inner tube with a

WINTER SPORTS BY BILL FINK

A Grand Season for Play

PLAYING IN SNOW Snow play isn’t usually foremost in people’s minds when they think of California, but the state has some of the best skiing in the West, with the area around Lake Tahoe oﬀering more options than anywhere in North America. Young snowboarders are ready to attack the Mammoth Unbound terrain park at Mammoth Mountain Ski Area, above.

Southern California has long been

pleasant vacationland of San Diego or Los

known as a warm-weather winter vacation

Angeles. But for those seeking winter

area, with sports and outdoor activities

sports, there may be no better place on

centered in San Diego and Los Angeles

earth than the mountains surrounding

and desert retreats like Palm Springs. But

Lake Tahoe. The area hosted the 1960

the mountains of Lake Tahoe, Mammoth

Winter Olympics at Squaw Valley and con-

Lakes and Yosemite beckon winter visitors

tinues to be home base for many U.S.

who want to embrace snow-based sports

Winter Olympians who bang moguls, rip

and recreation.

the half-pipes and race on downhill runs at more than a dozen area ski resorts. For

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Sports

the non-extreme, plenty of beginner trails,

In winter, Southern California is still an

group lessons and smaller hills offer a safe

oasis for outdoor sports and adventure,

introduction to the sport.

from golf to tennis, hiking and horseback

Tahoe resorts including Squaw Valley,

riding, whether in the still-baking desert

Northstar and Heavenly feature ice skating

around Palm Springs or the perpetually

rinks and innertube runs for those looking

PETER MORNING/MAMMOTH MOUNTAIN SKI AREA. OPPOSITE: DELAWARE NORTH AT YOSEMITE; MONOCOUNTY.ORG

Bears may be hibernating in winter, but California’s many winter activities provide lots of reasons to get outdoors

for more mellow activities, best enjoyed by

to as well. Avoiding the hot summer

a fire pit with toasted marshmallows for

months means visitors can enjoy temperate

dessert. Cross-country skiing and snow-

winter hiking and camping opportunities

shoeing courses dot the Tahoe area,

in desert parks such as Death Valley, Joshua

offering a brisk aerobic workout amidst

Tree and around Palm Springs (but be fore-

pine forests and sweeping mountain

warned that the nights can still get frigid).

scenery. South of Tahoe, Mammoth Moun-

Prior to snowfall, the Sierra Nevada moun-

tain boasts a world-class ski resort, while

tain forests are ablaze with colorful fall

Big Bear offers skiing within a reasonable

foliage, making a hike through the hills a

commute from Los Angeles, enabling the

prime “shoulder season” activity.

highly motivated to surf and ski in a single

Wintertime provides an escape from the

day. Outside of the ski resorts, snowmo-

summer crowds often found in Yosemite

biling provides high-octane motor sport

National Park. Visit the near-empty wilder-

fun, while dogsledding is a way to enjoy a

ness to enjoy a quiet blanket of snow

different sort of ride with some furry

covering towering cliffs, the sun glistening

friends. For the adventurous, remote back-

off frozen waterfalls and the muffled

country skiing, the increasingly popular

clomping sound of guided snowshoe

“sidecountry” Alpine Touring connected to

tours—and then retire to one of their

the ski resorts, ice climbing and hut-to-hut

lodges for special winter food and wine

Winter also is the time when visitors

hiking in the Sierra Nevada mountains can

events. Hot springs around Mammoth

can spot many animals migrating south to

feed one’s hunger for adrenaline.

Lakes provide toasty outdoor relaxation

follow the sun. From massive gray whales

with a view of snowcapped mountains. Or,

to miniature monarch butterflies, flocks of

The Great Outdoors

perhaps bundle up and climb a mountain

birds in the central wetlands and pods of

Step away from organized resort sports and

for prime star-gazing opportunities in the

seals come to mate on the shores of the

there’s still a wealth of winter outdoor

crisp and clear mountain air, then add a

Pacific, the world’s wildlife also seems to

activities in California. The bears may be

few more layers and try some ice fishing on

think that California’s outdoors is a great

hibernating but that doesn’t mean you have

a high alpine lake.

place to visit in winter.

YOUR » FIND SPORT Skiing skilaketahoe.com mammothmountain.com bearmountain.com xcski.org Hiking/Camping yosemitepark.com nps.gov/state/ca parks.ca.gov

FAMILY ICE SKATING at Curry Village ice rink, Yosemite, above; cross-country skiing in Mono County, top right.

Wildlife whalewatching.com/california birding.com/wheretobird/california.asp dfg.ca.gov/wildlife

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

SHOPPING

BY LENORE GREINER

Shopping Paradise From outlet bargains to high fashion, California shopping has everything you’d expect and many surprises

There are countless ways to enjoy yourself on shopping sprees in California, from one-of-a-kind hole-in-the-wall shops to the grandest department stores and shopping districts. All of the top brands are here, from Neiman Marcus to Nordstrom to Bloomingdale’s, and famous districts from Orange County malls to LA’s Rodeo Drive to San Francisco’s Union Square will give you plenty to explore. You can always try on a new look, like these shoppers in Huntington Beach, above.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

The Golden State’s iconic malls,

bargains behind the walls of a recreated

bohemian shops and posh boutiques can

Mesopotamian palace. And super shop-

astound even the most jaded sophisticate.

ping opportunities entice savvy shoppers

An enticing range of California’s eclectic

in millions of square feet of retail space.

creativity awaits visitors throughout the state, from theme park collectibles to

SoCal Glamour

homegrown surfing gear to fine wine.

Malls sprawl throughout Los Angeles,

Foodies can sample fresh-made cheeses in

crowned by Rodeo Drive’s stratospheric

artisanal food shops. Fashionistas will love

price tags. But you’ll find significant bar-

San Francisco’s luxurious haute couture

gains in rings, necklaces and other pieces in

haunts. And art lovers can bring home an

the historic Jewelry District at prices up to

original California landscape from a red-

70 percent less than those in Beverly Hills.

wood-scented artists’ enclave.

More than 3,000 jewelry showrooms stand

California shopping safaris may entail

on 6th and 8th streets between Olive Street

sighting a celebrity in a Los Angeles bou-

and Broadway Avenue. Behind a facade of

tique, arriving at a mall by boat or hunting

bas-reliefs of Babylonian princes and

HUNTINGTON BEACH CVB. OPPOSITE: CARMEL PLAZA; PASADENA CVB

CALIFORNIA SHOPPING

CARMEL PLAZA in Carmel-by-the-Sea, left; shopping in Pasadena, below.

heraldic griffins, the Citadel Outlets holds

Spectrum Center holds 130 stores, restau-

700,000 square feet of retail bargains inside

rants and a 21-screen cinema, anchored by

a one-time 1929 tire plant modeled on an

Nordstrom and Macy’s.

ancient Assyrian palace. And between the

Fashion Island, with its casual resort

Farmer’s Market and The Grove shopping

setting featuring splashing fountains and

center, the Grove Trolley provides shoppers

a koi pond, overlooks the Pacific. Leading

free rides along First Street.

with Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom, this

The West Hollywood Design District features high-end fashion, interior design,

coastal center has more than 100 shops and 36 restaurants.

furniture, decorative arts and luxury brand

Beyond the malls, Laguna Beach’s

stores on Melrose Avenue and Robertson

stylish art galleries line streets sloping to a

and Beverly boulevards. Sunset Boulevard’s

pretty beach. And, if heading to Palm

Northern California Elegance

world famous Amoeba Music is the

Springs, stop at the 180-store Desert Hills

San Francisco’s massive malls and quirky

nation’s largest music emporium, stocking

Premium Outlets in Cabazon for luxury

boutiques showcase the city’s European

an overwhelming selection of vinyl, CDs,

designer brands.

style. Join the Prada-clad parade circling

Southward in San Diego, begin your

downtown Union Square to max out your

shopping trip with a delightful morning at

platinum card in the upscale department

In Santa Monica’s breezy, outdoor Third

waterside Seaport Village. Then, hop on the

stores. Stroll down nearby Maiden Lane,

Street Promenade, find the usual mall sus-

Coronado Island ferry and cruise to the

once lined with Barbary Coast brothels, for

pects, Anthropologie and Gap, as well as

Coronado Ferry Landing Shops for more

more luxury.

celebrity-soaked Fred Segal and Zara, a

sunny shopping.

tapes, posters and collectibles—at rockbottom prices.

Nearby, the Westfield San Francisco

San Diego’s own Rodeo Drive—Prospect

Centre is an architectural gem with 200

Artsy shoppers should head to nearby

Street in La Jolla—has art galleries, bou-

stores, restaurants and two food empo-

Venice Beach’s hip art galleries, bookstores

tiques and sweeping Pacific views. In the

riums under a stunning 1908 dome.

and vintage shops. For bargains, drive

city center, the 16½-block Gaslamp Quarter

Don’t miss San Francisco’s great shop-

north to Camarillo’s giant 160-store Camar-

features mall chains as well as hip shops

ping neighborhoods. On Chinatown’s

illo Premium Outlets.

and art galleries occupying restored Victo-

Stockton Street you can pick up Asian

rian buildings.

antiques, silk clothing bargains or rare tea.

trendy European chain.

In Orange County, quintessential SoCal shopping experiences await in huge open-

In coastal Carlsbad, north of San Diego,

Herbal pharmacies proffer Chinese medic-

air malls, complete with valet parking.

you’ll find an elegant outlet mall, the

inal remedies, ginseng, deer antlers or

Inspired by Spain’s Alhambra, the Irvine

Carlsbad Premium Outlets.

herbs costing $100 per pound.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

SHOPPING YOUR » FIND FASHION

WILSHIRE BOULEVARD and Rodeo Drive are two of LA’s most celebrated shopping areas, right and below.

West Hollywood Design District westhollywooddesigndistrict.com Citadel Outlets citadeloutlets.com The Grove thegrovela.com

explore Saint Helena’s historic main street for culinary tools and vintage luxuries. Three outlet malls—in Petaluma, Napa and Vacaville—offer brand names and Near Pacific Heights, Sacramento Street

mall time.

houses fancy consignment shops, luxury goods retailers and haute couture children’s boutiques. Hippie culture thrives in Haight

Farther Afield: North Coast, Yosemite & Theme Parks

Street shops selling incense, used records

California’s wild North Coast inspires the

and vintage San Francisco postcards,

handcrafted furniture and handicrafts,

which make great gifts.

pottery or jewelry found in artsy Mendo-

North Beach and Jackson Square are

cino’s ocean view lanes.

famous for the legendary City Lights book-

Yosemite Valley’s majesty and history

store, Italian cafés and antique stores.

inspire the gifts and mementos found in

Japantown offers authentic Japanese

Yosemite Museum’s Gift Shop, including

goods, tansu chests, bonsai and antique

authentic Native American-woven basketry.

kimonos. Finally, Hayes Valley, a hipster

The Ansel Adams Gallery sells photographic

haven, has trendy stores and nary a chain

reproductions and collectible prints. Shopping in theme parks goes beyond

store in sight. Two hours south, in Carmel-by-the-

sunscreen or souvenirs. In San Diego Zoo

Sea’s storybook village, shops display fine

Safari Park, The Bazaar stocks authentic

French linen and European antiques. Big

African artifacts and unusual jewelry. In

Sur’s rugged coast inspires the art found in

Disneyland’s Downtown Disney District,

small art galleries. On Ocean Avenue,

you’ll find surf gear and Disney col-

explore

lectibles. Finally, the world’s largest

Bottega Veneta or Kate Spade in the Carmel

selection of LEGOs awaits in Carlsbad’s

Plaza shopping center amid cafés, artful

LEGOLAND California Resort.

designer

shops

such

bronze sculptures and abundant plants and flowers.

From sun-splashed malls to sophisticated art galleries, even the most experienced

North, in the wine country, discover arti-

shopaholic can score the perfect gift or

sanal food shops, olive oil producers and

memento during a delirious California

cheese makers on Sonoma’s main plaza.

shopping experience. And it’s all located

Napa Valley wineries offer fine vintages,

on stage sets of ocean views, mountain

and foodies will love the seasonal abun-

majesty, innovative architecture and quiet

dance at Petaluma’s organic Green String

redwood groves.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Amoeba Music amoeba.com Fred Segal fredsegal.com Venice Beach venicebeach.com/shopping San Diego Gaslamp Quarter gaslamp.org Coronado Ferry Landing Shops coronadoferrylandingshops.com Seaport Village seaportvillage.com Irvine Spectrum Center shopirvinespectrumcenter.com Fashion Island shopfashionisland.com Carlsbad Premium Outlets premiumoutlets.com/carlsbad Westﬁeld San Francisco Centre westﬁeld.com/sanfrancisco Carmel-by-the-Sea carmelcalifornia.com Carmel Plaza carmelplaza.com Sonoma’s Main Plaza sonomavalley.com/sonoma.html Mendocino Shopping mendocino.com Napa Premium Outlets premiumoutlets.com/Napa Green String Farm greenstringfarm.com Saint Helena’s Main Street sthelena.com Downtown Disney District disneyland.disney.go.com/ destinations/downtown-disney-district Yosemite National Park nps.gov/yose

FRAZAO PRODUCTION/SHUTTERSTOCK; VIEW APART/SHUTTERSTOCK

Farm and in local farmers markets. Or

Santa Monica Third Street Promenade 3rdstreetpromenade.com

SPAS & WELLNESS

BY LAVINIA SPALDING

Treat Yourself to the Ultimate Escape California’s world-famous spas invite you to unplug and unwind

NAPA VALLEY This celebrated region and neighboring Sonoma Valley are known primarily for their wine, but their appeal runs deeper than that. You can pamper yourself at luxury spas—such as Meadowood in Saint Helena or the Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa—dine at some of California’s (and the USA’s) best restaurants, shop at trendy boutiques or live a little rougher and explore wild state parks.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

In San Francisco’s vibrant Japantown dis-

For people around the world, the name

trict, buses and bikes whiz by, teens

“California” means escape and conjures

congregate and people text as fast as they

images of sunny beaches. But in today’s

walk. But inside the Kabuki Hot Springs,

demanding, perpetually wired world, a

the city vanishes. The only sounds in the

true vacation requires more than just a

dimly lit, Japanese-style communal baths

break from the office; it takes unplugging,

are the gentle splashing of water and occa-

purifying and restoring. Luckily, this is

sional strains of soothing music. In the

practically the state motto.

sauna, you can lie back and detoxify as you

California has been a resort destination

treat your eyes to chilled cucumber slices.

since the early 20th century, beckoning trav-

Then hit the steam room and exfoliate

elers with its year-round warm weather,

with lemon and sea salt. Follow with a

spectacular geography and mineral springs.

long, lazy soak in the hot tub, and if you’re

The 1950s brought yoga to the state, and the

brave, a cold plunge. When you’re finished,

1960s ushered in a wave of young hippies

start all over again. In fact, linger all day: it

passionate about all-natural food and

only costs $25.

intentional living. Today, California is the

nation’s vortex of personal health and self-

Wine Country Wellness

improvement, with spas and wellness

Californians are known to soak up a lot

centers almost as ubiquitous as scenic

more than wine in Napa Valley and

views. From five-star luxury resorts and

Sonoma. Residents have long enjoyed the

posh day spas to holistic healing programs

area’s natural mineral waters, and today’s

and “hippie hot springs,” the array of

spa menus overflow with treatments using

retreats will dazzle even the most experi-

grape seeds and skins, rich in antioxidants

enced serenity seeker. Here are some of our

and polyphenols. At the Kenwood Inn and

favorite spots for the ultimate escape.

Spa, order up a vinotherapy bath and you’ll

JENNA ROSE ROBBINS/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; SKENT KANOUSE/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; SONOMA MISSION INN SPA. OPPOSITE: MEADOWOOD SPA

soak in Chardonnay, Pinot Noir or

Taking the Waters

sparkling wine elixirs, salts and oils. Or

Home to numerous large geothermal

refresh with a Vinosource Hydrating

areas, California has for centuries been a

Facial, a moisturizing treatment with

celebrated mineral springs destination,

gentle exfoliation and fresh grape extracts.

with myriad spas statewide. Two hours

But it’s not all about grapes in wine

inland from Los Angeles, Desert Hot

country. At Sonoma’s Osmosis Day Spa

Springs offers dozens of options, from the glamorous, sprawling Two Bunch Palms (featured in the movie The Player) to cozy boutique inns like Hacienda Hot Springs. The Central Coast also boasts famous baths, such as Esalen (equally known for its extensive list of alternative-education workshops) and Tassajara, the first Zen monastery built outside of Asia. But small, funky Calistoga in the north is the state’s oldest spa town, renowned not only for hot springs but also abundant volcanic ash used for therapeutic mud treatments. Eight thousand years ago, the Wappo Indians named the area “Ta La Ha Lu Si,” meaning “Beautiful Land” or “Oven Place,” and today spa facilities run the gamut from luxurious to laid-back. The oldest in Calistoga—and likely California—is Indian Springs, opened in 1862 by Sam Brannan, the A SHRINE WELCOMES visitors to the bathhouse at Tassajara Zen Mountain Center, top; Indian Springs Resort & Spa, Calistoga, above; facial in Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa, left.

first Gold Rush millionaire. The property features an Olympic-size heated mineral pool (complimentary with spa treatment on weekdays; $30 extra on weekends), an adults-only saltwater pool, mud baths, steam rooms steeped with eucalyptus, and a meditation pond. Tip: book a hotel stay between November and March (excluding certain holidays) and get one free mud bath per room and 10 percent off dinner at Sam’s Social Club.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

SPAS & WELLNESS PRACTICING YOGA in Long Beach, right.

Sanctuary, an innovative, eco-conscious day spa, the specialty is a cedar enzyme “bath.” Guests immerse themselves to the chin in warm, finely ground cedar, rice bran and plant enzymes. Heated by natural fermentation, the treatment is said to aid digestion, improve circulation and relieve muscle tension. Or for first-class pampering, lavish accommodations

and

three-star

Michelin dinner, visit the brand-new 14,000-square-foot all-suite Meadowood

Health First

package such as “From the Earth,” which

When the sublime Golden Door opened in

includes a black walnut scrub enhanced

Escondido in 1958, it was a pioneer among

with custom-blended aromatherapy oils.

American spas. It’s since become one of

Located on a private, two-hundred-fifty-

the world’s finest health resorts, regularly

acre estate, Meadowood also offers golf,

hosting Hollywood’s biggest stars. Golden

tennis, croquet, hiking and swimming.

Door specializes in fitness, Eastern philosophy, relaxation and opulence. Guests

Om Sweet Om

pre-arrange completely customized four-

When yoga came to America, some of the

to seven-day packages with fitness options

first studios appeared in Hollywood and

as diverse as Pilates, fencing, tennis, dance

San Francisco. The practice has since

and archery. Best of all, each stay includes

become a way of life for countless Califor-

facial treatments, herbal wraps, mani-

nians, and hundreds of top-notch centers,

pedis, and daily in-room massages.

from ritzy to rustic, cater to beginners and gurus alike.

Another excellent (and more affordable) option is The Oaks at Ojai, where healthy

One of the world’s most renowned yoga

weight loss and conscious eating are

retreats is tucked into the Santa Ynez

emphasized, and activities include belly

Mountains above Santa Barbara. At the

dancing, hula hooping, Qigong, hiking and

White Lotus Foundation Center, guests

aqua Zumba. Indulge in a seasonal sugar

spend their days doing sun salutations in

rub (think Pixie tangerine, lavender or fig),

a canyon with ocean views, hiking through

lemongrass lavender pedicure or hot

old-growth oaks, meditating in an under-

Himalayan salt stone massage.

ground Hopi-style kiva and swimming in

Ultimately, California’s spa culture prom-

natural stone pools. Massages are avail-

ises visitors far more than relaxation; it

able, gourmet vegetarian fare is served,

ensures that this time you won’t need a

and sleeping quarters are private accom-

vacation from your vacation. You’ll return

modations, heated yurts or creekside

home relaxed and recharged—that is, if you

camping under the stars.

can bring yourself to return home at all.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

» FIND YOUR SPA Kabuki Hot Springs kabukisprings.com Two Bunch Palms Resort & Spa twobunchpalms.com Hacienda Hot Springs haciendahotsprings.com Esalen esalen.org Tassajara Hot Springs sfzc.org/tassajara Indian Springs indianspringscalistoga.com Meadowood meadowood.com/spa Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary osmosis.com Kenwood Inn and Spa kenwoodinn.com White Lotus whitelotus.org Golden Door goldendoor.com The Oaks at Ojai oaksspa.com

RAY SMITH/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICR

Spa, and choose a curated treatment

CASINOS

BY MATT VILLANO

High Rolling Las Vegas isn’t the only show out West, California is a gambling destination, too now offer gambling, the best (and most plentiful) options are in California. The Golden State has two choices for people looking to place bets: Native American casinos, and card rooms (which are glorified bars where gambling is legal, so long as the house doesn’t win). The Native American outposts tend to be farther from major cities but offer nicer digs. They have slots. They have table games. They even have bingo. Many of these wagering wonderlands are “Vegasstyle” resorts, complete with luxury hotels, top-notch restaurants and indulgent spas. A few of the properties even have their own golf courses. many cases, more geared toward locals. Games here are far less varied—in most cases, as the name suggests, only card games are available. The upside? Gambling action is usually loose (and that’s a good thing). We’ve divided California’s gambling scene into four distinct geographical regions. Wherever you go, bet wisely, and remember to stay within your means.

San Francisco Bay Area & Beyond Without question, the Bay Area is the most exciting region of California for gambling, with more options than any other part of

PECHANGA CASINO The Pechanga Resort & Casino in Temecula opened in 2002, and is still the largest casino in California. The resort is the biggest employer in the Temecula Valley, a place the Pechanga people have called home for more than 10,000 years.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

the state. It also is home to the newest major spot to let chips fly: Graton Resort & Casino. In the olden days—the days of Frank

This attraction, located in Rohnert Park,

Sinatra and Bugsy Siegel—U.S. gamblers

is a hulking casino built and operated by

looking for a date with Lady Luck had one

Station Casinos, one of the largest casino

option: Las Vegas. Nowadays, with changes

companies in Las Vegas. Bettors cheer the

to gambling laws in many states, it’s a safe

swanky gambling floor, which boasts a 20-

bet that bettors can throw down their cash

table poker room, more than 130 table

just about anywhere. Of all the states that

games, and thousands of slots. Foodies

RAY SMITH/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR. OPPOSITE: PECHANGA CASINO; PECHANGA CASINO; SOUTH LAKE TAHOE CVB

Card rooms are smaller, quieter and, in

EXCITING SLOT ACTION in Pechanga Casino, right; Hard Rock Hotel & Casino, Lake Tahoe, bottom left; tuna sushi in Pechanga, bottom right; Thunder Valley Casino Resort, Lincoln, next page.

flock to the place, too—the restaurant lineup includes a Chinese bistro from Chef Martin Yan, and a food-court outpost of Tony’s Neapolitan-style pizzeria. Other Native American casinos in this region are small but superlative in other ways. Many, including Cache Creek (Brooks) and Thunder Valley (Lincoln), have full-service hotels. Red Hawk, in Placerville, offers child-care services for tykes

in cash prizes (not to mention lots of seats

home to some of the biggest Native Amer-

while mom and dad play.

to the annual World Series of Poker) over

ican casinos in the state, including Harrah’s

Most of the other gambling options in

the course of every year. Casino M8trix, in

Resort Southern California in Valley Center;

Northern California are card rooms, and

San Jose, distinguishes itself with a

Pala Casino Spa Resort in Pala; Barona

many are located in the suburbs of San

thumping nightclub.

Resort & Casino in Lakeside; and Pechanga Resort & Casino in Temecula. All of these

Francisco and Sacramento. The two most popular: San Jose’s Bay 101, which hosts a

SoCal and LA

properties boast Vegas-style hotels with

number of World Poker Tour events

Southern California—from the northern

eateries, shopping and spas. In 2014, after a

throughout the year, and Colma’s Lucky

edge of the San Fernando Valley to the

$160-million renovation, Harrah’s opened a

Chances, which doles out nearly $1 million

Mexico border, the Pacific Ocean to I-15—is

new 403-room hotel tower and a pool deck that features a lazy river and weekend parties with live deejays. Closer to Los Angeles, the name of the game is card rooms. Two facilities are worth visiting for their grandeur alone: the Commerce Casino (Commerce) and the Bicycle Club (Bell Gardens). Both venues have expansive poker rooms and host some of the most popular tournaments in the area.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

CASINOS

» KNOW THE RULES Just because California has casinos

The Desert

doesn’t mean games there play the

Package deals abound for stay-and-play

accessible venues are located in South

same way they’d play in Las Vegas or

vacations at casino resorts in and around

Lake Tahoe. Here, the Montbleu Resort,

the Coachella Valley and Palm Springs. At

Casino & Spa (formerly a Caesars prop-

Morongo Casino Resort & Spa in Cabazon,

erty) is by far the swankiest, with

for instance, $229 per night gets guests a

ultra-modern lounges and a steakhouse

room plus a $30 casino credit and a 50-

that makes Ruth’s Chris seem like

minute massage. Similar deals are available

McDonald’s. The new Hard Rock Hotel &

of dice and a ball, the games

at the Agua Caliente Casino Resort Spa

Casino Lake Tahoe, with 500 hotel rooms

themselves hinge on overturning

(Rancho Mirage). Most area casinos have

and a 25,000-square-foot casino, opened

different types of cards.

their own golf courses, but locals rave about

in 2015 in the old Horizon Casino Resort

For novices (or those just looking

Eagle Falls, the course at Fantasy Springs

space located down the street.

for a good time), these differences

Resort Casino in Indio. The 18-hole course

are minimal. For hard-core craps and

was designed by architect Clive Clark.

ferences: craps and roulette. State gaming laws expressly prohibit the outcome of a game to be determined by dice or a ball. While the games incorporate traditional elements

roulette players, however, they make the games so foreign that adjusting becomes tough. Ask the croupier to review the rules before buying-in. If a game seems confusing, don’t bother; there are dozens of other options throughout the casino.

T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

at Lake Tahoe is that because they’re in Nevada, they play by Nevada rules (see

Lake Tahoe

sidebar). Since sports books and dice

Okay, okay, so the casinos that sidle up to

games are illegal in the state of California,

Lake Tahoe are on the Nevada side of the

this means Tahoe is the spot to place

state line. Still, they’re close enough to

those kinds of bets.

most other destinations in California that they deserve a mention here.

84 2 01 6

Of course the best thing about casinos

Big spenders, consider yourselves warned. And good luck.

WORLD POKER TOUR/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICR

Atlantic City. Perhaps the biggest dif-

Excluding those in Reno, the most

LOS ANGELES COUNTY A place for dreams and reinvention

BY JACQUELINE YAU TOP CITIES Los Angeles, West Hollywood, Burbank, Santa Monica, Malibu, Beverly Hills, Pasadena, Venice, Redondo Beach INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), 19 miles (31 km) from downtown LA DOMESTIC GATEWAYS Long Beach Airport (LGB), 24 miles (38 km) from downtown LA; Burbank’s Bob Hope Airport (BUR), 16 miles (26 km) from downtown LA

hanks to the Beach Boys harmonizing about California girls, beach party movies of the ’60s and TV shows like Baywatch, many people think of Los Angeles as palm trees, endless beaches and

bikini-clad women. But LA is far more complex. It’s a mix of the old and new, from cuisines to culture to ideas. The creativity and diversity of the region are reflected in the over 100 museums focused on the odd to the divine, vibrant global street art community and constant evolution of the food scene.

POPULATION 10.1 million

The City of Angels is also the land of reinvention. Henry Rollins—journalist, punk legend, radio host, spoken word artist and actor—once remarked, “For me, returning to Los Angeles annihilates the memories of where I have just been with an astonishing speed.” Los Angeles County attracts seekers, dreamers, hustlers and wannabe actors/screenwriters/directors. Most come from somewhere else and are looking for something better. A persistent optimism and self-expressiveness permeate the air.

The Nation’s Largest County As the most populous county in the nation, with over 10 million resiLOS ANGELES COUNTY

dents, Los Angeles County comprises 88 cities with more than 100 languages spoken within its 4,084 square miles. The county is larger than the states of Rhode Island and Delaware.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

LOS ANGELES CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU

TOURISM WEBSITES experiencela.com discoverlosangeles.com lamag.com visitwesthollywood.com lovebeverlyhills.com downtownla.com visitpasadena.com visitredondo.com

SPECIAL

MUST

» EVENTS 2016

THE HOLLYWOOD REEL INDEPENDENT FILM FESTIVAL Screens new feature films, documentaries, shorts and videos by emerging filmmakers who possess an independent spirit and create innovative work outside the studio system. Feb. 3-21 at multiple venues and locations in Los Angeles. hollywoodreelindependentfilmfestival.com FESTIVAL OF BOOKS Meet hundreds of literary lights and browse the booths at one of the largest book festivals in the country. The Los Angeles Times Festival of Books celebrates its 20th year. April 9-10 at USC. events.latimes.com/festivalofbooks SCI-FEST LA The third annual Los Angeles Science Fiction One-Act Play Festival returns, creating and showcasing new science fiction content on the live stage featuring many actors from well-known sci-fi TV and movie franchises. May 5-29 at The Acme Theater in Hollywood. sci-fest.com LA STREET FOOD FESTIVAL Follow your nose to the seventh annual fest celebrating over 100 of L.A.’s food vendors, from top chefs and renowned restaurants to gourmet food trucks and street food stalls. Sample a variety of libations too including craft cocktails and tequila. Whether you’re looking for a gourmet treat or a simple repast, you’ll find something that satisfies. In May at the Rose Bowl in Pasadena. lastreetfoodfest.com HERO COMPLEX FILM FESTIVAL The Hero Complex Film Festival brings together scifi, comic book and fantasy film fans to watch their favorites on the silver screen and hear from those behind some of the biggest hits. In May at TCL Chinese Theatres in Hollywood. events.latimes.com/herocomplex/film-festival JULY 4TH FIREWORKS SPECTACULAR—HOLLYWOOD BOWL Set against the Hollywood Hills, this mecca for music is a 1920s-era amphitheater. The annual July 4th fireworks program at the Hollywood Bowl features renowned musicians and fantastic fireworks displays. hollywoodbowl.com 626 NIGHT MARKET Inspired by the bustling Asian night markets, this evening bazaar will spice up your senses with more than 200 food vendors (tempting your taste buds with skewers of beef, spiraled fried potatoes, stinky tofu and mango shave ice), performers and retail booths. Entering its fifth year, this Asian-food-themed festival is held in the summer at Santa Anita Park in Arcadia. July-September. Check website for details. New this year: Taste of Night Market in Santa Monica, Feb. 5-6. 626nightmarket.com THE ABBOT KINNEY FESTIVAL Founded in 1984, this eco-conscious artisan and food festival attracts many to this bohemian-chic area in Venice. Located on a one-mile stretch on Abbot Kinney Blvd., from Venice Blvd. to Main Street. Sept. 25 in Venice. abbotkinney.org WEST HOLLYWOOD CARNAVAL Every Oct. 31, more than 500,000 people attend the world’s largest Halloween street party along Santa Monica Boulevard in West Hollywood. Dress up in your favorite costume and prepare to dance the night away. visitwesthollywood.com/halloween-carnaval

SEE, DO

Street Food Cinema Pack a blanket, beach

chair and pillows and join other Angelenos for this curated outdoor movie series at one of the 11 locations from Pasadena to the Pacific Palisades. Choose from over 50 events. Enjoy the confluence of pop culture films, celebrity guests, gourmet food trucks and live music under the sun and stars. › streetfoodcinema.com

Venice Boardwalk Hang out with surfers,

skateboarders, body builders, street basketball players, buskers, fortune-tellers and artists at the Venice boardwalk on Ocean Front Walk, a 1.5-mile pedestrian-only promenade. Don’t miss the Venice Public Art Walls featuring graffiti art on the sand, west of the bike path between Windward Street and Market Street. › venicebeach.com › veniceartwalls.com

Olvera Street Browse lucha libre (Mexican

wrestling) masks, Day of the Dead figurines, piñatas and other souvenirs in this block-long Mexican marketplace located in Los Angeles Plaza Historic District. This section of LA was the town center during the colonial era under Spanish and Mexican rule through most of the 19th century. Many vendors are the descendants of the original merchants in this marketplace that was established in 1930 to preserve and bring back “old Los Angeles” and its customs. Try a churro from Mr. Churro’s or a taco amidst the street stalls and old structures. › olvera-street.com

See Improv, Sketch or Stand-up Comedy Plan to laugh a lot when you visit one of the many comedy clubs in Los Angeles. You may see up-and-coming comedic geniuses honing their craft or a legendary veteran headlining or dropping by. Notable clubs include The Groundlings, Hollywood Improv Comedy Club, Laugh Factory, Upright Citizens Brigade and Comedy Store. › discoverlosangeles.com/blog/comedy-clubs-los-angeles

SANTA MONICA, above; Griﬃth Observatory, Los Angeles, opposite.

Kayak the Los Angeles River Paddle with

the LA Conservation Corps and its partners down a 1.5-mile stretch of the Los Angeles River in the San Fernando Valley within the Sepulveda Basin. This waterway has been open to the public through supervised kayak trips since the summer of 2011. The season runs from June through the end of September. Tickets sell out quickly, so don’t hesitate, book now and paddle! › paddlethelariver.org

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

LIVE MUSIC at Perch, a rooftop lounge, left; LA art district, below.

downtown LA’s Chinatown, Little Tokyo, the Art and Fashion Districts, the Latino enclaves around Echo Park, Hollywood’s Laurel Canyon, Little Armenia, Thai Town or Melrose District where hipsters shop. When in LA, do as the celebs do and start the day in downward dog at Bryan Kest’s Power Yoga studio in Santa Monica. Go shopping at Fred Segal, an LA institution known for cult beauty and makeup The entertainment industry is an inte-

brands. Need an outfit for an awards

gral part of the local economy, annually

show? Head over to Decades on Melrose

contributing $47 billion to the region. For

Avenue, a couture vintage store where

decades, the name Hollywood has been

many stylists choose red-carpet gowns

synonymous with the movie business,

for their star clients.

but today, most studios have moved into

Hungry? Eat at The Ivy, a Beverly Hills

neighboring suburbs such as Burbank

institution known for its casual chic

and Culver City.

atmosphere and the steady flow of

Some of the better-known areas in LA

celebrities lunching there. Or chow down

County aren’t even cities but rather dis-

on a Chili dog at Pink’s in Hollywood.

tricts or neighborhoods within Los

Watch an LA Lakers basketball game at

Angeles, such as Hollywood, Silver Lake

the Staples Center and see stars on the

and Venice. In contrast, Beverly Hills,

court and in the stands. End the day sip-

home to the most expensive residences

ping a cocktail at Chateau Marmont on

in the world, and West Hollywood, a

Sunset Boulevard in West Hollywood,

Near the GRIFFITH OBSERVATORY

diverse mélange of gays, Russians and

where celebrities meet their agents and

is a local favorite. Mingle with

musicians, are cities but completely sur-

studio execs.

celebrities, moms, seniors, dog

rounded by the city of Los Angeles.

» TIP

walkers and more as you hike up

Seventy miles of beaches run along LA

Hollywood

Mt. Hollywood to take in the

County’s southwest border. Malibu, an

Conceived originally as an outdoor bill-

gorgeous 360-degree views of the

exclusive seaside community, has some

board promoting a housing development

entire LA Basin, from the Pacific to

of the most beautiful beaches in the area.

called “Hollywoodland” in 1923, the Hol-

the SAN GABRIEL MOUNTAINS,

To the north of the city of LA, hikers and

lywood sign sits on the south side of

including the Hollywood sign on

mountain climbers can explore trails in

Mount Lee and Griffith Park—long a

MOUNT LEE. START on FERN DELL

the Santa Monica Mountains. To the east,

symbol that this is a place where dreams

DRIVE off LOS FELIZ in GRIFFITH

the San Gabriel Mountains rise up to

can come true.

PARK and walk away from Los Feliz

more than 10,000 feet above sea level.

up the hill to the Observatory and continue up the path, or for a shorter walk, park at the Observatory and start there on the

CHARLIE TURNER TRAIL. yelp.com/biz/ griffith-observatoryhike-los-angeles yelp.com/biz/charlie-turners-trail-los-angeles

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

The first movie studio, the Nestor Motion Picture Company, opened in the

City & Town

fall of 1911 in Hollywood on the north-

Los Angeles, the second largest city in the

west corner of Sunset Boulevard and

nation, dominates the county. Writer

Gower Street. It was absorbed by the Uni-

Dorothy Parker once quipped, “Los

versal Film Manufacturing Company,

Angeles is 72 suburbs in search of a city.”

which later became Universal Studios. By

Now, well over 100 neighborhoods in LA

the 1920s, 80 percent of the world’s films

form a rich cultural stew. Meander around

were shot in California.

LOS ANGELES CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU

INSIDER’S

LOS ANGELES THAI TOWN, below.

DRIVE

» TOUR MULHOLLAND DRIVE offers spectacular views of the HOLLYWOOD BOWL, the LA BASIN and

SAN FERNANDO VALLEY. It’s about 24 miles from the 405 freeway to Highway 101 with overlooks all along the way. Or, drive in a loop from HOLLYWOOD. Starting at the DOLBY THEATRE, home of the Academy Awards, go west on HOLLYWOOD BLVD. in Los Angeles till it ends. Turn right on LAUREL CANYON BLVD. and at the top, turn left on Mulholland Drive. Stop at the NANCY HOOVER POHL

OVERLOOK and enjoy a great view of the “Valley.” Return to Mulholland Drive, going eastbound, past Laurel Canyon Road until you see the HOLLYWOOD BOWL OVERLOOK on your right. Park and walk up to see the panoramic views of downtown LA, the Hollywood sign, Griffith Observatory and the Hollywood Bowl Amphitheater. Continue east until you reach the bottom of Mulholland Drive. Turn right on Woodrow Wilson and make an immediate right onto

Learn more about Tinsel Town’s history,

summer, moist marine air is pulled inland

the Rancho La Brea Tar Pits. Or if the kids

and experience its memorabilia at The Hol-

and forms a misty cover till it burns off by

are tired of trying to spot stars on the

lywood Museum. Or participate in the

the afternoon. Start in Malibu and show

ground, take them to the Griffith Observa-

Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sci-

your stuff at the iconic “Surfrider Beach” at

tory. Featured in many movies including

ences events and get swept up in the

Malibu Lagoon State Beach and explore

Rebel Without a Cause (1955), the observa-

pre-Oscar buzz.

tide pools and caves at Leo Carrillo State

tory is set on the southern slope of Mount

Park. Perhaps watch filming in progress at

Hollywood in Griffith Park, with a view of

The Great Outdoors

Malibu’s Point Dume State Beach, often

the Hollywood sign and greater LA below.

Despite its car culture rap, LA County

featured in movies such as the Iron Man

In addition to visiting the exhibits and

offers lots of outdoor activities. Rent a

series (2008-2013), and it appeared in the

events held Tuesday through Sunday at the

bike along the Santa Monica Pier and

last scene of Planet of the Apes (1968). Or

Samuel Oschin Planetarium and Leonard

ride down the path that parallels the

look out for California gray whales during

Nimoy Event Horizon Theater, go enjoy the

ocean, through Venice and on to Marina

their migration from December to mid

monthly, free public star parties held at the

del Rey before doubling back. Pack a

April. Next, wind your way down through

Observatory from 2:00 p.m. to 9:45 p.m.

picnic lunch and hike Echo Mountain in

Topanga Beach and stop over for a volley-

Budding astronomers and their families

Altadena or the Arroyo Seco trail system

ball game at Will Rogers State Beach in

are encouraged to try out different tele-

in the San Gabriel Mountains. Sign up

Pacific Palisades. Then hop over to Venice

scopes and talk to amateur astronomers

for rock-climbing instruction, take a

and the Strand on Manhattan Beach to

about the sun, moon and planets.

surfing or stand-up paddle boarding

people-watch.

centers in Santa Monica.

Or for something different, head to Long Beach and tour the Queen Mary, a retired

lesson from one of the many surfing

Family Fun

ocean liner that sailed on the North

Explore the county’s many and varied

Check out fossils of saber-toothed cats and

Atlantic from 1936 to 1967 and is now a

beaches, from the iconic to the little

mammoths that roamed the LA Basin

hotel, historical landmark and entertain-

known, but bring a sweater. In the

during the Ice Age at the Page Museum at

ment venue.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

LOS ANGELES CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU

CAHUENGA BLVD., heading south back to Hollywood.

WEST HOLLYWOOD

“The Creative City” is a place to indulge your senses and let loose BY JACQUELINE YAU

SUNSET BOULEVARD at night, above; rainbow crosswalk, below; boys’ night out, opposite bottom.

KNOWN FOR ITS live-and-let-live attitude since the late 19

Neil Diamond and Elton John, who per-

century, West

formed his first U.S. show there in 1970.

Hollywood (WeHo to the locals) has always

And Whisky a Go Go served as a rock incu-

been a little looser than its neighbors. This

bator, hosting early performances by The

central Los Angeles area, formerly an unin-

Byrds, Buffalo Springfield, Blondie, Guns

corporated stretch known as “Sherman”

N’ Roses and Red Hot Chili Peppers. The

during Prohibition, was loosely regulated

club also gave The Doors their start as the

and out of reach of the Los Angeles Police

house band.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

tunists, developers, mafia money and

Creative City

celebrities. Speakeasies, nightclubs and

West Hollywood is a densely packed 1.9

casinos proliferated along the Sunset Strip

square miles, a key-shaped city within a

where glam, glitz and grit rubbed shoulders.

city, straddling the iconic Sunset Boulevard

Marilyn Monroe had her first date with

and Santa Monica Boulevard, part of the

baseball Hall of Famer Joe DiMaggio at the

historic Route 66. Today, this cosmopolitan

Rainbow Bar & Grill, right across the street

and self-styled “creative city” is where

from the iconic music venue, The Roxy The-

music, art, fashion and design intersect. A

atre—the birthplace of many rock legends.

mix of Spanish Colonial Revival and Art

The decadent era of the 1920s and ’30s

Deco buildings, designer flagship stores,

gave way to the counterculture movement

furniture showrooms, art galleries, restau-

in the ’60s—bringing to the area musi-

rants and clubs vie for attention. Music

cians, seekers, publishers, promoters and

lovers, entertainers, fashionistas, glitterati

hippies—and fueling a renaissance in

and people-watchers alike indulge their

music clubs, including Troubadour and

senses and let loose here.

Whisky a Go Go, that are now part of rock

West Hollywood is home to a vibrant

’n’ roll lore. The Troubadour cultivated

gay and lesbian community and the largest

singer-songwriters like Randy Newman,

Russian community in the U.S. outside of

VISIT WEST HOLLYWOOD

Department—an ideal place for oppor-

New York. The city hosts a number of

section of San Vicente and Santa Monica

must-see annual events such as Halloween

Boulevard, a reflection of West Holly-

Carnaval, when nearly 500,000 people cel-

wood’s inclusiveness.

ebrate in the streets, and in June, the LA

Next, head over to Sunset Boulevard and

PRIDE Festival, one of the largest gay pride

visit Book Soup, an independent and

celebrations in the country.

beloved local bookstore known for its celebrity readings and teetering towers of

Get Pampered, Shop, Eat & Rock Out

books on music, art and film.

» LIVE IT UP! Tourism Websites visitwesthollywood.com weho.org facebook.com/wehoarts weho.org/business/ weho-pickup

To prepare yourself for a packed day in

As the evening progresses, enjoy the

West Hollywood, visit a first-class spa like

pulse-pounding nightlife of the Strip and stir

The Gendarmerie or Voda. Then enjoy the

it up at Whisky a Go Go, 1 Oak and The Roxy.

finest culinary creations where celebrities

Or, if still energized for more entertainment,

Events

like to dine with a touch of glamour at Cec-

go south to Santa Monica Boulevard to the

coni’s West Hollywood serving up refined

popular gay clubs like Flaming Saddles, The

Northern Italian cuisine, or savor modern-

Abbey Food & Bar and Here Lounge. On

American dim sum at The Church Key.

Friday and Saturday evenings, hop onto The

visitwesthollywood.com/ halloween-carnaval weho.org/pride lapride.org

Now fortified, walk around the West

PickUp Line, WeHo’s free trolley service, a

Hollywood Design District, bounded by

six-mile circular line shuttling passengers

Melrose Avenue, Robertson Boulevard and

between the city’s most popular venues on

Beverly Boulevard. Anchored by the Pacific

Santa Monica Boulevard.

Design Center, this area is a shopping

Finally, rest your feet and lounge at one

mecca for interiors and top fashions such

of the many A-list hotels such as the

as Moschino, Christian Louboutin and 3.1

Sunset Tower, an elegant Art Deco building

Phillip Lim. Next, head over to Santa

known for its city views and famous

Monica Boulevard and see where locals eat

former

and shop. Grab a sandwich at Mendocino

Hughes, Elizabeth Taylor and Frank

Farms, sangria at Café D’Étoile or coffee at

Sinatra; or the London West Hollywood,

Mocafe. Don’t miss walking across the

known for its impeccable service, chic

rainbow-colored crosswalks at the inter-

interiors and rooftop bar.

residents

including

Howard

Spa, Food & Fashion thegendarmerie.com vodaspa.com cecconiswesthollywood.com thechurchkeyla.com westhollywood designdistrict.com pacificdesigncenter.com mendocinofarms.com cafedetoile.net mocafela.com booksoup.com

Nightlife theroxy.com troubadour.com whiskyagogo.com 1oakla.com flamingsaddles.com abbeyfoodandbar.com herelounge.com sunsettowerhotel.com thelondonwesthollywood.com

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

REDONDO BEACH SoCal’s family friendly seaside playground

BY MICHAEL SHAPIRO

Redondo Beach Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Bureau visitredondo.com

REDONDO BEACH panorama, above; shopping at South Bay Galleria, below.

shops, rides and restaurants. Dining options

with glorious sands and a lively pier, Redondo

include seafood, Mexican specialties and hot

Beach is an ideal venue for living the Cali-

dogs. And there are more choices, such as a

fornia dream, even if only for the weekend.

bakery and a Japanese restaurant, on the pier’s

Just seven miles from LAX and not far from

adjacent International Boardwalk.

Los Angeles’ top attractions, historic Redondo

Beach Performing Arts Center. The 1,457-seat

Beach is a destination in its own right. Typically sunny and in the 80s in summer

venue hosts performances by the Los

and comfortable most of the rest of the year,

Angeles Ballet, a slack key guitar festival, The

the beach is less crowded than better-known

Nutcracker and theatrical musicals such as

sands in Malibu and Santa Monica. Activities

Jersey Boys.

range from sport fishing to whale watching,

For lodging, a top pick is The Portofino, a

diving, surfing and stand-up paddle boarding

waterfront hotel located in Redondo Beach’s

to biking and beach volleyball.

marina with soul-stirring ocean views.

Redondo Beach rose to prominence early

While staying in Redondo Beach, don’t miss

in the 20th century when George Freeth came

SEA Lab, a marine science education center

from Oahu and introduced surfing to the

(lacorps.org/programs/sea-lab).

mainland. Known as the “Man Who Can

If you’re in Redondo Beach between

Walk on Water,” Freeth attracted thousands

November and April, look out to sea and try

of spectators who gawked in amazement as

to spot gray whales migrating between Cali-

he rode his eight-foot-long wooden surf-

fornia and Mexico. You can often see the

board from sea to shore.

behemoths from shore; to get closer, book a

Today the Redondo Beach Pier attracts visitors with events including the annual Redondo

T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

whale-watching tour on a boat such as the Voyager (voyagerexcursions.com).

But don’t feel obliged to fill your

Annual Super Bowl Sunday 10k/5k run/walk

schedule. Perhaps the best way to enjoy

(Redondo10k.com), a classic car show and a kite

Redondo Beach is to simply relax in the

festival (redondopier.com/events). On the third

sand, watch the waves curl and enjoy some

Saturday of each month there are free yoga ses-

California dreamin’ in one of the state’s pre-

sions on the pier, which has more than 50

mier beach towns.

Beach Lobster Festival (LobsterFestival.com), 38

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The city’s cultural anchor is the Redondo

MORTAUPAT/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; REDONDO BEACH CVB

SWIM, BIKE, » DINE, RELAX!

PERCHED ALONGSIDE the Pacific Ocean

LA WATERFRONT Bring the family and explore LA’s maritime past

BY JACQUELINE YAU

LA Waterfront Visitor Information lawaterfront.org facebook.com/LAWaterfront

1 THURSDAY ARTWALKS bring out all ages, above; children explore the tide pool at Cabrillo Marine Aquarium, below.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

African backgrounds, it is also home to the

Los Angeles, framing the busiest container

first Wienerschnitzel restaurant, the world’s

port and global trade gateway in the United

largest lobster festival and the only

States, is the LA Waterfront. This emerging

remaining Warner Brothers theater in the

destination encompasses LA’s San Pedro and

nation (the Warner Grand, a gorgeous Art

Wilmington communities and delights even

Deco movie palace). Due to the work of John

native Angelenos, many of whom don’t yet

Olguin, San Pedro’s beloved marine life edu-

know that this place exists. More than a

cator, the nation’s first commercial whale

decade ago, redevelopment began to turn the

watching program for children launched

waterfront from an industrial area to a place

here in 1972, and the Frank Gehry-designed

filled with recreational spaces, artists’ stu-

Cabrillo Marine Aquarium was established.

dios and restored historical sites all geared for families and visitors.

Get ready to explore more than fifty points of interest along the LA Waterfront, starting

In 1542, Portuguese explorer Juan Rodriguez

with the spectacular water ballet at the

Cabrillo visited San Pedro Bay, surrounded by

Gateway Fanfare Fountain near the World

tidal flats and marshes. Centuries later,

Cruise Center. Visit San Pedro’s historic art

through the efforts of the “Father of Los

district, LA Maritime Museum, Ports O’Call

Angeles Harbor” Phineas Banning and his

Village, CRAFTED weekend artisan market-

sons, the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914

place, Brouwerij West (a brewery with

and the result of shipbuilding for both World

Belgian-inspired ales), Banning Museum, the

Wars, LA’s working class harbor has trans-

Battleship USS Iowa museum and SS Lane

formed into one of the world’s busiest ports.

Victory (a fully operational World War II-era

The LA Waterfront is not only a multi-

cargo ship museum). Events include open art

ethnic stew of descendants from the original

studios during 1st Thursday Artwalks, live

fishing families that came from Italy,

music performances, Los Angeles Fleet Week

Croatia, Greece, Portugal, Norway and Japan,

(three-day event over Labor Day) and annual

and of “new” residents with Mexican and

classic car shows and film festivals.

LA WATERFRONT

STROLL, DINE, » PLAY, EXPLORE!

TWENTY MINUTES SOUTH of downtown

ORANGE COUNTY Beyond surfer dudes and Mickey Mouse, an ethnic melting pot with artistic energy

BY CHRISTINE DELSOL AND MARIBETH MELLIN TOP CITIES Anaheim, Buena Park, Costa Mesa, Fullerton, Garden Grove, Huntington Beach, Irvine, Laguna Beach, Newport Beach, Orange, San Juan Capistrano, Santa Ana, San Clemente INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY John Wayne/Orange County Airport (SNA), located at the juncture of Costa Mesa, Santa Ana and Newport Beach near I-405

isneyland put Anaheim, and thus Orange County, on the travel map, but visitors lost no time following locals to the warm, idyllic beach cities dotting 42 miles of postcard-

worthy coastline. Celebrities and surfers alike congregate on now-famous beaches enhanced by historic missions, art colonies, scenic marinas and renowned surf breaks. Its teeming freeways reveal little more than mirrored office build-

TOURISM WEBSITES visittheoc.com visitanaheim.org visitbuenapark.com travelcostamesa.com surfcityusa.com destinationirvine.com visitlagunabeach.com visitnewportbeach.com sanjuancapistrano.org POPULATION 3,145,515

ings, sprawling malls and cookie-cutter residential developments, but behind that facade, “The OC” is surprisingly diverse. Even Anaheim has established its own identity apart from the “Magic Kingdom,” with a massive convention center complex offering outdoor dining and concert space, the Center Street Promenade revival of its historic commerce district and the bustling Packing House food hall and market. The seductive beach towns also have their own identities, from surfcentric Huntington Beach to tony Newport to artsy Laguna to serene San Clemente. In addition to inland cities that grew of their own accord, master-planned communities have supplanted great swaths of orange groves. Primary among these is Irvine, encompassing a University of California campus, the still-developing Orange County Great

ORANGE COUNTY

Park and several “villages.” These varied communities host distinctive festivals, farmers markets and events. Cultural attractions and performing arts venues, such

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

MUST

SEE, DO

Laguna Beach and Pageant of the Masters

Laguna Beach originated as a small artists’ colony in the early 1900s, and its continuing devotion to the arts is evident in its many festivals, galleries and abundant public art. Best of all is Pageant of the Masters, 90 minutes of living art tableaux in which costumed people portray some of the world’s great art masterpieces. › visitlagunabeach.com › foapom.com

DENIS BLOFIELD/SHUTTERSTOCK; HUNTINGTON BEACH CVB; HUNTINGTON BEACH CVB; . OPPOSITE: JON BILOUS/SHUTTERSTOCK

HISTORIC DC-3 “Flagship Orange County” at Lyon Air Museum, Santa Ana, top; surfer at sunset, Huntington Beach, left; shopping for suroards, above; view from Crescent Bay Point Park, Laguna Beach, opposite.

Mission San Juan Capistrano This beautifully preserved, 18th-century mission covers 10 acres of gardens and adobe buildings in a scenic town famous for the swallows that return every spring. Besides the mission tours and religious services, this important cultural hub hosts yearround events, from rock concerts to mariachi contests to the annual Christmas tree lighting ceremony. › missionsjc.com

Balboa Island Ferry Fun-seekers have been making the short crossing to Balboa Island since 1916. You can take the ride whether you’re on two wheels or four, or just your own two feet. Explore the classic beach bungalow architecture and magnificent scenery on your own, or take the two-hour Saturday walking tour. › balboaislandferry.com › balboa-island.net

SWALLOWS’ DAY PARADE March 12, San Juan Capistrano swallowsparade.com

Bowers Museum More than one-third of the OC’s population is Latin American and 18 percent is Asian; English is a second language for 45 percent of its residents. This Santa Ana museum honors the county’s many cultures through their art in exhibitions that have toured nationally and internationally. It also hosts cultural festivals throughout the year. › bowers.org

BATTLE OF THE MARIACHIS May 14, Mission San Juan Capistrano missionsjc.com

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2016 DANA POINT WHALE FESTIVAL March 5-6, 12-13, Dana Point festivalofwhales.org

SAWDUST ART FESTIVAL June 24-Aug. 28, Laguna Beach sawdustartfestival.org HUNTINGTON BEACH 4TH OF JULY PARADE July 4, Huntington Beach hb4thofjuly.org PAGEANT OF THE MASTERS July 7-Aug. 31, Laguna Beach foapom.com TALL SHIPS FESTIVAL Sept. 9-11, Dana Point Harbor tallshipsfestival.com NEWPORT BEACH CHRISTMAS BOAT PARADE Dec. 14-18, Newport Beach christmasboatparade.com

Disneyland Resort Before exploring Disney California Adventure Park and Downtown Disney’s array of restaurants and clubs, walk in Walt Disney’s footsteps on a guided behind-the-scenes tour revealing the imagination and challenges behind his creation of the place that forever changed the meaning of “amusement park” in 1955. Spend a night at the acclaimed Craftsman-style Grand Californian Hotel and return to the park in the morning for the full-on Disney experience. › disneyland.disney.go.com

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

as the Orange County Performing Arts Center and the South Coast Repertory, are sprinkled throughout the county. When

DRIVE

» TOUR

retail therapy is required, destination shopping malls such as Irvine Spectrum,

Highway 1 offers the most

Costa Mesa’s South Coast Plaza and Fashion

scenic drive following the

Island in Newport Beach vie with dozens of

coastline from DANA

out-of-the-way local shopping districts.

POINT to LONG BEACH, a

For sports fans, the Los Angeles Angels play at the Angel Stadium of Anaheim and the Anaheim Ducks hockey team speeds over the ice at Anaheim’s Honda Center, which also hosts concerts with major acts such as the Rolling Stones and Bruce Springsteen. More than 40 championship courses and a year-round temperate climate lure

drive best attempted on weekdays between rush hours. Stop in the popular towns of LAGUNA BEACH,

NEWPORT BEACH or HUNTINGTON BEACH for a taste of the Southern California beach scene.

golfers. Hotel and day spas help the OC’s beautiful people maintain tone and tan.

THE HARBOR from Ken Sampson Overlook Park in Dana Point, above; Huntington Beach volleyball, left; Segerstrom Center for the Arts in Costa Mesa, opposite top; garden in San Juan Capistrano Mission, opposite bottom.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

INSIDER’S

» TIP

After the fall of Saigon, droves of Vietnamese refugees touched down first at Camp Pendleton, just south of the county line. Many stayed and became the largest Vietnamese community outside of Vietnam. LITTLE

SAIGON, straddling Westminster and Garden Grove, held Southern California’s first Tet Festival, the exuberant lunar new year celebration. It also published the country’s first Vietnamese newspaper and elected the first Vietnamese-American to public office. To delve into this rich

CHRIS COSTEA; RARENA/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: KESTERHU/SHUTTERSTOCK; JON BILOUS/SHUTTERSTOCK

culture, browse the shops at

City & Town

Family Fun

ASIAN GARDEN MALL, find

Orange County encompasses 34 cities and

Disneyland and Knott’s Berry Farm might

unique specialty ingredients at

several master-planned communities but

be all most kids need to hear about Orange

A. DONG SUPERMARKET and seek

lacks a single distinctive downtown. Dis-

County, but there’s plenty more. Thrills

respite from city streets at the

neyland makes Anaheim the most famous,

await parents and kids at Sky Zone Ana-

CHUA HUE QUANG Buddhist

but history buffs enjoy San Juan Capis-

heim’s indoor trampolines and the

temple. Stylish QUAN HY turns

trano’s mission, Yorba Linda’s Nixon

100-plus hands-on exhibits and 4D theater

out upscale lunches, while simple

Presidential Library and the restored Vic-

at Santa Ana’s Discovery Science Center.

torian homes and historic commercial

And what better way to learn about marine

centers in Santa Ana and Orange. Hunt-

science and maritime history than on a tall

ington Beach offers the most vibrant

ship or a research vessel with Dana Point’s

downtown beside the sea.

Ocean Institute?

restaurants throughout the area serve pho, the traditional Vietnamese staple. littlesaigonnow.com

The Great Outdoors For a mega-suburb, Orange County is packed with natural wonders. Its coast contains world-famous surf spots (Huntington Beach, the Wedge at Newport Beach, Trestles in San Clemente), yacht harbors (Newport Beach, Dana Point) and Crystal Cove State Park’s protected underwater reserve. Doheny State Beach, California’s first, is adjacent to one of several wetland reserves filled with birds. Wild inland canyons and parks offer countless hiking and biking trails.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

101

HUNTINGTON BEACH Mellow surf vibe and chic shopping and dining are quintessential Southern California

DINE, SHOP,

» SURF, PLAY!

WHEN LEGENDARY Surfer George Freeth

This city on the fabled Pacific Coast

brought the age-old sport to Southern Cali-

Highway is more than its beaches. Beginning

fornia in 1907, he brought Huntington

where the beach leaves off, downtown

Beach’s destiny along with him. In 2006, the

beckons avid shoppers and diners to its

Visit Huntington Beach

city won the official “Surf City USA” trade-

lively, casual mix of surf shacks, outdoor

mark on the strength of its history, ten miles

cafés and bohemian bars. A self-guided his-

surfcityusa.com

of tawny sand, extraordinarily consistent

tory walk from the pier takes in not just

waves, and its longtime role as host of the

surfing landmarks but the site of the Hunt-

annual U.S. Open of Surfing. The Interna-

ington Beach Company, railroad tycoon

tional Surfing Museum, a favorite pilgrimage,

Henry Huntington’s brainchild that devel-

displays exhibits on titans of surfing and

oped much of the original city, along with

such historic relics as massive early 20th-cen-

surviving turn-of-the-20th-century architec-

tury longboards.

tural gems.

BEACH FUN HAPPENS both day, below, and night, above.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Much of life happens outdoors in Hunt-

One-fifth of a mile south and well within

ington Beach (pop. 200,000), from The Ocean

view of HB’s iconic pier, the new Pacific City

Strand, a paved beach path, to the superb

beachfront shopping, dining and artisanal

Huntington State Beach stretching three

marketplace opened in late 2015. Its upscale

miles south of the pier, to leafy, 350-acre Cen-

shops and restaurants favor local indie

tral Park. The Strand is ideal for family bike

stores, including a specialty food hall called

rides or a spin in a surrey, and the beach

Lot 159 after the nearby lifeguard stations,

draws kids of all ages to play in the surf or

plus popular hipster brands from Los

build bonfires at sunset. The pride of the city

Angeles, Chicago and New York. Four ocean-

is the Bolsa Chica Ecological Reserve and

front resort hotels, including the new

Huntington Beach Wetlands, the largest

250-room Pasea Hotel & Spa opening in

restored saltwater marsh between Monterey

summer 2016, are all within easy walking dis-

Bay and the Mexican border.

tance of downtown and Pacific City.

HUNTINGTON BEACH CVB

BY CHRISTINE DELSOL

LAGUNA BEACH Oasis at the seaside

BY MICHAEL SHAPIRO ater as a live orchestra plays along with live narration; it’s an exhilarating performance,

lime destination for sun worshippers, outdoor

from July 7 to Aug. 31. The Pageant is part of

enthusiasts and art lovers, with more beach-

Festival of Arts, one of the nation’s oldest

Laguna Beach Tourism Information

front lodging than any other city in California.

and most highly acclaimed juried fine art

In the early 1900s its idyllic beauty attracted

shows, from July 5 to Aug. 31.

visitlagunabeach.com

well-known artists who founded the Laguna

Perhaps the best year-round activity is to

Beach Art Association and set the course for the

walk along the trails of Heisler Park on the

seaside hamlet to remain a locus of creativity.

bluffs above the beaches. The natural beauty

SUNSET ON MAIN BEACH, above; shopping in downtown Laguna Beach, below.

Laguna Beach’s first art gallery opened in

of sea, sand and wildflowers is accentuated

1918 and is now the Laguna Art Museum, which

by sculptures placed along the trail and

features more than 3,500 works by California

artists who bring their easels and paint. The

artists from the early 19 century to the present

park is a great place for a picnic, or you can

day. On tap for 2016 are a Helen Lundeberg ret-

eat at nearby restaurants such as Las Brisas.

rospective and an exhibition of drawings by Los

Some favorites among Laguna Beach’s

Angeles modernist Frederick Hammersley. Art

more than 80 restaurants include Nirvana

festivals enliven Laguna Beach during summer.

Grille, whose menus change with the

The Laguna Beach Music Festival (Feb. 10-

seasons, and Slapfish, specializing in super-

14) features such outstanding classical and

fresh seafood from owner/chef Andrew

contemporary talents as violinist Jennifer Koh.

Gruel, whose fish shack was featured on the

The seaside town (pop. 24,000) has a mild

Food Network. For elegant cocktails, try Drift-

climate, typically reaching highs in the 80s

wood Kitchen’s Stateroom Bar in the former

during the summer. The protected beaches

home library of actor Slim Summerville.

and waters are ideal for dolphin and whale

Among the other attractions, the Pacific

watching, volleyball, kayaking, snorkeling,

Marine Mammal Center (open daily, free but

tide pooling and stand-up paddle boarding.

donations appreciated) is a rescue center for

Laguna Beach’s seven-mile coastline is pro-

sea lions and other marine mammals that

tected as a marine reserve: fishing and

have been injured or stranded along the

motorized vehicles are banned, and no crea-

Orange County coastline.

tures can be touched in the tide pools.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

The Free Laguna Beach Trolley shuttles

Don’t miss Pageant of the Masters, a 90-

visitors along the coast daily during the

minute show of living art masterpieces, such

summer months, and on Friday evenings,

as The Last Supper or paintings by Norman

Saturdays and Sundays from September

Rockwell, created by people dressed as the

through June. The motorized trolleys

figures they represent. These tableaux

resemble San Francisco cable cars but run on

vivants come to life in an outdoor amphithe-

roads, not tracks.

VISIT LAGUNA BEACH

PADDLE, SHOP, » VIEW THE ART

LOCATED ON THE COAST about 50 miles south of Los Angeles, Laguna Beach is a sub-

COSTA MESA City of the Arts also offers retail therapy and is a foodie haven TM

TUCKED BETWEEN Anaheim and the

mixing diverse and quirky shops and eating

SHOP, EAT, » PLAY, STAY

coveted zip codes of Newport Beach on the

spots with art and DJ events; across the

coast, Costa Mesa (pop. 113,000) would be

street, The CAMP is a bastion of eco-con-

easy for a visitor speeding through the city

scious local artisans, equally enticing for

Costa Mesa Conference & Visitor Bureau

on the I-405 freeway to dismiss as a typical

innovative restaurants serving rabbit tacos,

suburb, except for one thing: the locals

native cashew cheese and gelato flights. The

travelcostamesa.com

streaming in from all corners of the county

OC MIX is a something-for-everyone collec-

and beyond to the city’s retail centers, inven-

tion of unique shops and specialty foods.

tive restaurants and major arts venues. The

Foodies can eat their way from Costa Mesa to

coast is within easy reach, but Costa Mesa is

Newport Beach along the renowned East 17th

removed from the crowds and offers less

St. Culinary Corridor, but even the funky

expensive lodging.

strip malls harbor intriguing indie shops.

SEGERSTROM CENTER FOR THE ARTS, above; couple dining at The LAB in Costa Mesa, below.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

First a native village visited by Mission

Costa Mesa adopted the motto, “City of the

San Juan Capistrano padres who grazed

Arts,” in 1999. The four performance halls,

cattle there, and later a prosperous agricul-

studio space and education lab of the

tural community, Costa Mesa hosted many

Segerstrom Center for the Arts constitute

thousands of trainees during World War II at

Orange County’s primary performing arts

the Santa Ana Army Air Base (site of today’s

venue, hosting three resident companies and

Civic Center, Orange Coast College and

offering the best lineup of Broadway shows,

county fairgrounds). Many returned after the

dance and musical performers outside of Los

war, rapidly building the city into a major

Angeles. Also notable: the South Coast Reper-

commercial and industrial center.

tory theater, Costa Mesa Playhouse, and a local

Luxurious South Coast Plaza is the West

secret: the California Scenario, also called the

Coast’s largest shopping destination and

“Noguchi Garden” for famous artist Isamu

claims one of the world’s largest collections

Noguchi, whose 1.6-acre sculpture garden

of fashion designers, but Costa Mesa also

weaves native plants and stone into an abstract

hosts a thriving alternative shopping cul-

representation of the state’s redwoods, desert,

ture. The LAB “antimall” started the trend,

and everything in between.

COSTA MESA CONFERENCE & VISITOR BUREAU

BY CHRISTINE DELSOL

SAN DIEGO COUNTY From sun-kissed shoreline to inland desertscapes, wide open spaces meet urban culture and history

BY CHRISTINE DELSOL AND MARIBETH MELLIN

INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY San Diego International Airport (SAN), also known as Lindbergh Field, is conveniently located on the edge of downtown TOURISM WEBSITES sandiego.org lajollabythesea.com coronadovisitorcenter.com delmarmainstreet.com visitcarlsbad.com visitoceanside.com eastcountychamber.org

alifornia has no shortage of beach towns, but San Diego is its only “beach city,” with the state’s second-largest population but also 70 miles of scenic coastline and an ideal climate (averaging 70 degrees)

in which to enjoy them. Those sands, a wealth of outdoor recreation and family-oriented attractions are the city’s primary lure, but San Diego takes the “city” part seriously, too. Arts and intellectual pursuits enjoy deep support here, and writers, artists, musicians and scientists find inspiration while surfing at La Jolla Shores or jogging in Mission Bay Park. The Tony-winning Old Globe and La Jolla Playhouse frequently send plays to Broadway. Scientific landmarks include the Salk Institute and Scripps Institute of Oceanography, magnets for some of the world’s brightest minds. Downtown’s diversions alone could easily fill a week. Something is always going on in the Gaslamp Quarter, Little Italy and East Village, neighborhoods packed with restaurants, clubs and shops. The Embarcadero traces San Diego Bay’s edge, offering access to the USS Midway aircraft carrier turned museum;

POPULATION 3 million

the Maritime Museum with its venerable Star of India’s tall sails and new San Salvador, a replica of Spanish explorers’ ships; the expansive Waterfront Park; and the sail-like rooftop of the San Diego Convention Center. Cruise ships berth at the foot of Broadway, the main artery into downtown, and passengers into San Diego International Airport fly over high-rise business towers to land at the northern edge of downtown. Just a couple of blocks from

SAN DIEGO COUNTY

the Embarcadero, the Santa Fe Depot also funnels Amtrak passengers into the city center. Hotels of every description and hip-quotient are scattered throughout the city’s core, making it one of the region’s most desirable places to stay while exploring the county.

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RIGUCCI/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: LILYLING1982/SHUTTERSTOCK

TOP CITIES San Diego, Coronado, Chula Vista, La Jolla, Del Mar, Encinitas, Solana Beach, Carlsbad, Oceanside, Escondido, El Cajon, Julian, Borrego Springs

MUST

A Bridge to Coronado

The swooping San Diego-Coronado Bridge connects downtown to Coronado,

SEE, DO

a genteel city with an active Navy base. Its “island” actually is a peninsula tethered to the mainland by the Silver Strand, a

narrow strip of road and sand running past quiet lagoons and pristine beaches to the southern part of the county. Whether you arrive by bridge or by ferry, Coronado promises serenity by one of the world’s loveliest beaches—named America’s best by Dr. Beach in 2012—after

skimming the water through the Coro-

the rigors of urban exploring. The Victo-

nado Cays in a gondola, visiting the

rian confection called the Hotel del

Coronado Museum of History & Art,

Coronado commands this broad sweep of

ogling the San Diego skyline from Tide-

impeccable white sand. Coronado’s

lands Park and, on the other side of the

beguiling simple pleasures include shop-

bridge, teeing off at the stellar Coronado

ping and dining on Orange Avenue,

Municipal Golf Course on Glorietta Bay.

SAN DIEGO-CORONADO BRIDGE, above; San Diego from Coronado island, opposite.

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2016 FARMERS INSURANCE OPEN Jan. 28-31, Torrey Pines Golf Course, La Jolla farmersinsuranceopen.com GASLAMP QUARTER MARDI GRAS Feb. 6, Downtown San Diego sdmardigras.com ART WALK @ LITTLE ITALY April 30-May 1, Little Italy artwalksandiego.org FIESTA OLD TOWN CINCO DE MAYO April 30-May 1, Old Town San Diego cincodemayooldtown.com ROCK ’N’ ROLL MARATHON June 3-5, Central San Diego runrocknroll.competitor.com/san-diego SAN DIEGO COUNTY FAIR June 3-July 4, Del Mar Fairgrounds sdfair.com PORT OF SAN DIEGO BIG BAY BOOM July 4, San Diego Bay bigbayboom.com COMIC-CON INTERNATIONAL July 20-24, Downtown San Diego comic-con.org DEL MAR THOROUGHBRED CLUB HORSERACING July 15-Sept. 5, Nov. 10-Dec. 4, Del Mar dmtc.com SAN DIEGO LGBT PRIDE PARADE, RALLY & FESTIVAL July 16, Hillcrest and Balboa Park sdpride.org ARTWALK NTC @ LIBERTY STATION Aug. 13-14, San Diego artwalksandiego.org SAN DIEGO BEER WEEK Nov. 4-13, Throughout San Diego County www.sdbw.org POINSETTIA BOWL & HOLIDAY BOWL December, Qualcomm Stadium Mission Valley sandiegobowlgames.com/poinsettia-bowl

USS Midway Though known for its beaches and cultural diversions, San Diego is a Navy town at heart. This 1,001-foot-long, 20th-century aircraft carrier museum honors the more than 200,000 sailors who served aboard the vessel over its 47 years at sea and spotlights the city’s rich military history. Exhibits and activities include the new holographic Battle of Midway Theater, restored aircraft, flight simulators and a self-guided audio tour of the crew’s living and working quarters. › midway.org

La Jolla This upscale Mediterranean-style community lives up to its name (“The Jewel” in Spanish), with a postcard-ready setting, white sands, turquoise waters, sea caves (including Sunny Jim Cave, California’s only known land-access sea cave) and an Underwater Park teeming with pinnipeds, rays, scuttling lobsters and countless fish. It’s not just another pretty face, though; it hosts the Tony Award-winning La Jolla Playhouse, Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego, Murals of La Jolla and the Birch Aquarium—while also offering the “Rodeo Drive of San Diego,” named for Prospect Street’s stellar shops, galleries and restaurants. › lajollabythesea.com

San Diego Zoo Known for its naturalistic habitats, endangered animal species and adorable giant pandas, the zoo requires a minimum of a full day. Allow time for the fabulous shops. › sandiegozoo.org

Balboa Park The country’s largest urban cultural park is a rambling landscape of museums, theaters, artists’ studios and gardens. The tiled California Tower, with its unobstructed 360-degree view of the park and city, has become a treasured landmark, reopened after an 80-year closure for the park’s centennial in 2015 › balboapark.org

Coronado Islanders at a happy remove from Downtown’s bustle and clamor revel in their serene, small-town ambience with beautifully restored Victorian homes and wide streets festooned with rose gardens. The Hotel del Coronado serves as a landmark and attraction for the compact community, which actually sits on a peninsula rather than an island. › coronadovisitorcenter.com

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109

LA JOLLA SHORES is a popular place for beach activities of all kinds, including launching kayaks and canoes, right.

INSIDER’S

» TIP

Tex-Mex has nothing on San Diego’s newest food sensation,

CALI-BAJA, a creative fusion born of California’s locavore movement and Mexico’s BajaMed cuisine. Baja-Med, created in Tijuana, blends traditional Mexican cooking with Mediterranean ingredients and techniques. San Diego’s location

Balboa Park

City & Town

and climate ensure year-round

San Diego’s century-old cultural heart occu-

Prescient developers and preservationists

fresh bounty from land and sea

pies 1,200 acres of hills and canyons just

have given San Diego an exciting, cosmo-

on both sides of the border.

east of downtown. It hosts 16 museums and

politan downtown with several hip

Chef Javier Plascencia first

The Old Globe theater, winner of multiple

neighborhoods, beginning with the his-

brought his Tijuana vision

Tony Awards. Its most famous tenant, the

toric Gaslamp Quarter in the 1980s. Its

across the border to ROMESCO

justly renowned San Diego Zoo, celebrates

picturesque streets are packed with classy

MEXITERRANEAN BISTRO in

its Centennial in 2016 with a huge new

restaurants and clubs in restored 19th-cen-

Bonita, 10 miles north of the

Africa Rocks exhibit. Gourmet restaurants

tury Victorian, Baroque and Frontier

border; and in spring 2015 he

and gorgeous Victorian mansions line quiet

buildings. Petco Park, downtown’s excep-

streets in nearby neighborhoods such as

tional baseball stadium and sometime

Bankers Hill, Hillcrest and Mission Hills.

concert venue, spurred development of

MEXICANA DE RAIZ in Little Italy. Cali-Baja has spread throughout San Diego and throughout price ranges. Try

PUESTO in Seaport Village, the BLIND BURRO in the Gaslamp Quarter or GALAXY BURRITO in La Jolla—that is, pretty much anywhere a craving for fresh, truly multicultural cuisine might strike.

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the burgeoning East Village neighborhood

Beach Towns

filled with trendy condo complexes, bou-

The coast between the Mexican border (18

tiques, cafés and a stunning Central

miles south of downtown) and Oceanside

Library. Little Italy, a few blocks north of

is lined with beach towns. Each has a

downtown’s core, managed to hold on to

unique character, from Ocean Beach’s

some venerable pizza parlors, bakeries

hippie holdover vibe to classy La Jolla’s

and bars while evolving from a simple

Mediterranean

atmosphere.

Italian community into a desirable urban

Beloved by surfers and escapists with suf-

neighborhood of modernist condo com-

ficient wherewithal, a series of small

plexes,

communities line the coast north of La

restaurants helmed by some of the

Jolla’s pristine Torrey Pines State Reserve.

region’s top chefs.

village

trendy

shops

and

gourmet

DOBINO/SHUTTERSTOCK

founded BRACERO: COCINA

As the hub of San Diego’s nightlife

The Great Outdoors

scene, the entire downtown now pulses

Surfers, swimmers, boaters and anglers all

with energy day and night. The city has

play in and on the Pacific Ocean, from Mis-

become one of the nation’s top craft beer

sion Beach’s boardwalk and Belmont Park’s

meccas, with more than 90 breweries with

historic Giant Dipper roller coaster to La Jolla

a huge collection of awards.

Shores’ mile-long beach with kayaking,

The urban core continues uptown

diving, surfing and swimming areas. Electric

through such established neighborhoods

orange Garibaldi and other exotic fish—

as Bankers Hill and Hillcrest, the lively

including curious but harmless leopard

heart of the LGBT community. A brand-new

sharks in late summer—draw snorkelers to

neighborhood continues to evolve on the

La Jolla Cove, and harbor seals have taken

site of the former Naval Training Center,

charge of the nearby Children’s Pool.

now called Liberty Station. The mixed-use

East and north of the city center, the

project already has completed the Point

landscape abruptly gives way to rolling

Loma residential area, along with stores,

foothills and canyons. Lakes and reservoirs

office space, galleries and educational

offer freshwater fishing and tranquility.

facilities. The capstone, occupying the

The vast Anza-Borrego Desert State Park,

base’s Spanish Colonial-style former com-

home of “California’s Grand Canyon” at

missary building, is the new Liberty Public

Fonts Point, provides hiking trails through

Market, next to the existing Stone Brewery

palm canyons and fields of cacti, and puts

and Restaurant.

on dazzling spring wildflower displays.

CASA DEL PRADO at Balboa Park in San Diego, left.

Family Fun Adults and children alike relish the San Diego Zoo and its separate Safari Park, LEGOLAND California and SeaWorld San Diego.

Downtown’s

New

Children’s

Museum is an eco-friendly playground for all ages, with multicultural, bilingual exhibits that make learning fun, and its

Heritage & Culture

Cabrillo’s brief but momentous stay is

adjacent one-acre park allows kids to burn

Explorer Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo, long

commemorated at Cabrillo National Monu-

energy. Teens flock to fighter planes and

claimed by Portugal but now believed to

ment at the tip of Point Loma overlooking the

flight simulators at the USS Midway

have been Spanish, discovered San Diego

bay. European settlers who returned in 1769

Museum; the aircraft carrier is the most-

Bay in 1542 but sailed on north, leaving

built a fort and mission church at Presidio

visited ship museum in the world. Top

the Kumeyaay Indians to their warm,

Hill, a gorgeous swath of lawns above Old

choices for inexpensive entertainment:

bountiful home. San Diego County’s 18

Town State Historic Park, which contains

Bicycling at Mission Bay and Coronado,

tribes represent the largest concentration

many of San Diego’s oldest buildings. Today’s

fishing off piers in Imperial Beach and

in the country, and more than half benefit

downtown evolved in a burst of development

Ocean Beach, stargazing from Mount

today from casinos in the east and north

in 1867, producing the historic homes that

Palomar and spotting spring wildflowers

county areas.

give the vibrant Gaslamp Quarter its character.

in the Anza-Borrego Desert.

DRIVE

» TOUR

OCEANSIDE

CARLSBAD

Historic Highway 101, also called the PACIFIC COAST HIGHWAY, runs through San Diego’s idyllic NORTH COUNTY coastal communities, passing by gorgeous long beaches and wild lagoons. You can do the trip in a couple of hours, but why hurry? Begin at the north end of La Jolla at TORREY PINES LEUCADIA

STATE PARK and descend a steep hill to Torrey Pines beach, then uphill again to DEL MAR. Stop signs at each block force you to slow down and appreciate the Tudor-style buildings and quaint shops and cafés in town before you

MOONLIGHT BEACH ENCINITAS

CARDIFF-BY-THE-SEA

descend again and cruise through SOLANA BEACH, CARDIFF-BY-THE-SEA,

ENCINITAS, LEUCADIA, CARLSBAD and OCEANSIDE. Each town’s main street presents an array of dining and browsing options, from funky Mexican take-

SOLANA BEACH

DEL MAR

out stands to fancy restaurants on the sand. Of the many beaches along the way, MOONLIGHT BEACH in Encinitas presents the most playtime possibili-

TORREY PINES STATE PARK

lifeguard station. Take your time and stop often. The distance between Torrey Pines and Oceanside is only 25 miles, but you can easily spend a full day exploring. When you’re ready to return to central San Diego, just hop on I-5 South at one of the many entrances along 101.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

SHALUNTS/SHUTTERSTOCK

ties including a playground, snack bar, picnic tables and a year-round

SAN DIEGO ZOO & SAFARI PARK Born to be wild BY CHRISTINE DELSOL AND MARIBETH MELLIN

ONE OF THE WORLD’S 10 largest zoos,

14, 2016, a new film about the zoo’s conser-

San Diego Zoo earns its worldwide fame on

vation work was unveiled in January, and

many fronts. It pioneered the concept of

a history-oriented multimedia animal

zoos without cages. It houses 4,000 ani-

show opens in March. A 75-foot mural

mals representing 660 species on 100 acres

depicting the zoo’s history already fes-

of Balboa Park, forming a lush, 700,000-

toons Centennial Plaza, behind the Reptile

plant arboretum in the process of

House.

re-creating the animals’ natural habitats.

San Diego Zoo Safari Park

scarce in the wild. Perhaps most impor-

Originally a breeding facility for the down-

tant, the zoo’s Institute for Conservation

town zoo, this 1,800-acre adjunct park 35

Research lends its expertise to 132 conser-

miles to the northeast in Escondido offers

vation and species-preservation projects

wide open spaces where more than 2,600

in 62 countries and has been instrumental

animals run free. While it concentrates on

in replenishing populations of the giant

herd animals such as giraffes, antelopes

condor, giant panda and Tasmanian devil,

and rhinos from the African and Asian

among many other species.

savannahs, the park houses about 300

The Panda Trek and the Australian Outback, home to koalas mingling with other

STAR ATTRACTION of the Panda Trek, top; relaxing on the Tiger Trail, above.

species. Many rotate between the down-

exotic birds. To focus on a favorite animal,

town zoo and the Safari Park.

join one of the various safaris, undertaken

marsupials and birds, are among the most

Getting close to these creatures can be

by cart, trike, jungle ropes or zip line. You

popular areas. 2015 brought a new Asian

as simple as walking through areas such as

can even sleep among the animals on a

leopard habitat and a pair of endangered

the Tiger Trail, the Lemur Walk or the

Roar and Snore Safari. Like the downtown

African penguins, the vanguard of what

Cheetah Run, where you can feel the

zoo, the Safari Park creates a lineup of spe-

will be a large breeding flock in a major

whoosh of the world’s fastest cat speeding

cial exhibits and animal presentations that

new Africa Rocks project to open in 2017.

past you. Riding on the popular Africa

guarantee a new experience even for visi-

The focus right now is the zoo’s centen-

Tram presents photo ops with herds of

tors who return over and over throughout

nial. Leading up to the main event on May

giraffes, crashes of rhinos and flocks of

their lives.

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SAN DIEGO ZOO & SAFARI PARK

Many of its denizens are increasingly

SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA The Bay Area’s diversity and scenic beauty make it a top destination BY LAURA DEL ROSSO TOP CITIES San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley, San Jose, Napa, Sonoma, Palo Alto, Santa Rosa, Sausalito INTERNATIONAL GATEWAYS San Francisco International Airport (SFO), 12 miles (19 km) from downtown San Francisco; Oakland International Airport (OAK), 8 miles (13 km) from downtown Oakland; San Jose International Airport (SJC), 4 miles (6 km) from downtown San Jose

he San Francisco Bay Area never disappoints visitors: the majestic towers of the Golden Gate Bridge, the San Francisco skyline and other cities of culture and great dining, ancient

redwood groves, expansive vineyards and a coastline of rocky cliffs and sandy beaches. Combine those with a Mediterranean climate and a dynamic environment of high-tech entrepreneurs and it’s no wonder the San Francisco Bay Area encourages a seductive, can-do way of life that revolves around the high energy of its residents and the great out-

visitoakland.org santaclara.org sanjose.org visitmarin.org sonomacounty.com

POPULATION 7.35 million

doors at its doorstep. The hub of the area is San Francisco, a city of diverse neighborhoods, world-class cuisine and a welcoming spirit of openness and tolerance in the most European of American cities. Besides the landmark bridge, other popular attractions draw millions each year to what boosters call “Everyone’s Favorite City” at the center of the Bay Area.

North Bay: Marin, Sonoma & Napa Across the Golden Gate to the north lies Marin County, one of the most beautiful and affluent areas of the U.S. Sausalito, Tiburon and Mill Valley are among its many inviting towns. The mountain bike was invented here to maneuver the twisty trails on Mount Tamalpais. On the Marin coast, one ruggedly gorgeous beach follows another, SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

including along spectacular Point Reyes National Seashore. Also in the North Bay, Sonoma and Napa counties are home to acres of vineyards and dozens of wineries producing some of the world’s

SARAPORN/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: LUCIANO MORTULA/SHUTTERSTOCK

TOURISM WEBSITES sanfrancisco.travel visitnapavalley.com santacruzca.org sanmateocountycvb.com visitberkeley.com sonomavalley.com

THE GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE spans the entrance to San Francisco Bay, right; an aerial view of downtown San Francisco, opposite.

finest wines. Among the small towns full of boutiques, shops and tasting

MUST

rooms is the Napa Valley hamlet of

Yountville, a foodie dining mecca, with several Michelin-starred restaurants.

SEE, DO

South Bay: Palo Alto & Santa Cruz In Palo Alto on the peninsula south of

San Francisco lies the bucolic campus of Stanford University, one of the

choke fields and miles of pristine

country’s leading universities. Neigh-

beaches. Santa Cruz County to the

boring San Mateo County’s coastline

south offers visitors a wealth of attrac-

still shows its traditional fishing and

tions, including parks and wineries in

agricultural roots. It’s within a short

its redwood-covered mountain range,

drive of major population centers yet a

and laid-back beaches where surfers

world away, with its sprawling arti-

polish their technique.

DRIVE

» TOUR

SAMPLE LOCAL FARE San Francisco is perennially rated tops in the U.S. for its dining, and visits aren’t complete without stops at the Ferry Building’s Marketplace and neighborhoods such as Chinatown for dim sum at City View or the Mission for tacos at La Taqueria, a burrito at Taqueria Cancun or pastries at renowned Tartine Bakery. › sanfrancisco.travel

SEE THE REDWOODS Muir Woods is the most popular old growth redwood grove close to San Francisco, but it is also the most packed. You can avoid crowds and gape at equally awe-inspiring mammoth trees at Sonoma County’s Armstrong Woods State Natural Reserve or Big Basin Redwoods State Park in the Santa Cruz mountains. › parks.ca.gov

» Start by crossing the Golden Gate Bridge driving north, stopping in SAUSALITO. Head northwest to MOUNT

TAMALPAIS STATE PARK and take the steep, twisting road to the Pantoll Ranger Station and drive the PANORAMIC

HIGHWAY for ocean, city and mountain views. Drive to

MUIR WOODS NATIONAL MONUMENT for a short walk

URBAN OUTING Oakland has undergone a boom in its food and cultural scene, with its Uptown, historic Old Oakland and Temescal neighborhoods undergoing a renaissance that has attracted new art galleries, cafés and restaurants. Jack London Square on the waterfront is also in the midst of revitalization. › visitoakland.org

NAPA EXCURSION The Napa Valley has recovered after the 2014 earthquake and is thriving with the leafy downtown dotted with 19th-century Victorians lined with wine tasting rooms, restaurants, cafés and galleries. Don’t miss Oxbow Public Market for casual dining and souvenir shopping. › visitnapavalley.com

among redwoods. Head back toward Sausalito and Highway 101 and drive north to the wine country town of SONOMA. Explore its shady plaza, surrounded by shops, wine tasting rooms and historic sites. From Sonoma, it’s a short drive to California’s other major wine region, Napa Valley, and the city of NAPA.

COASTAL JOURNEY Driving Highway 1 along the spectacular coasts of Marin and Sonoma counties is an unbeatable excursion. Stop at Point Reyes Station to sample cheese at Cowgirl Creamery, visit the wharf at Bodega Bay for clam chowder, and stroll the bluffs and beaches north to Jenner, where the Russian River meets the Pacific and a colony of harbor seals thrives on the shore. › visitmarin.org, sonomacounty.com

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

117

INSIDER’S

» TIP

Don’t overlook travel by water for unforgettable sightseeing in the

San

Francisco

Bay

Area.

Sail the bay by ferry to or from

SAN FRANCISCO’S EMBARCADERO and FISHERMAN’S WHARF to

OAKLAND, SAUSALITO or TIBURON and enjoy remarkable city and bridge views. Along the SAN

MATEO county coast, three-hour cruises from HALF MOON BAY are awesome experiences in the Pacific Ocean, particularly during the December-May gray whale migration.

The city is easy to explore on foot, with

vast open spaces to savor the Bay Area’s

On the eastern side of the bay lies the col-

the waterfront Embarcadero, Fisherman’s

varied natural beauty. Among the high-

lege town of Berkeley, with its history of

Wharf, Chinatown and Union Square (the

lights are the majestic Marin Headlands

political idealism, University of California

largest shopping area in the western U.S.)

and San Francisco’s Presidio and Crissy

academic prestige and coffeehouse intel-

all within a short walk of each other. Col-

Field, a popular walking area and restored

lectualism. Berkeley is almost synonymous

orful vintage streetcars rumble down the

wetlands that also draws kite boarders to

with Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse and the

Embarcadero and Market Street, con-

the white-capped waters at the Golden Gate.

movement to organic, local and seasonal

necting to public transportation that carries

Rolling green hillsides dotted with Cal-

food. Berkeley’s larger neighbor, Oakland,

visitors to the city’s many diverse neighbor-

ifornia golden poppies make spring an

is a culturally diverse city with vibrant

hoods and to Golden Gate Park, the large

especially ideal time to explore Mount

neighborhoods and lovely Lake Merritt,

greenbelt that extends to the Pacific Ocean.

Tamalpais and Muir Woods in Marin

whose three-mile path draws joggers

The region’s other major cities are San

County. Point Reyes National Seashore’s

Jose, where revitalization has brought an

beautiful coastal terrain contains an abun-

and walkers.

urban vibe, restaurants and museums

dance of wildlife, including migrating

City & Town

downtown, and Oakland, which attracts

shorebirds and ducks, whales that are

Even though it was surpassed in popula-

visitors with the renovated Museum of

easily seen off the coast in migration

tion by San Jose long ago, San Francisco

California, bay-front Jack London Square

season (mid January to mid March) and a

remains the region’s cultural hub. The city

and a trendy dining scene it shares with its

herd of tule elk.

draws more than 18 million travelers each

college town neighbor, Berkeley.

There also is no lack of wide-open spaces in the East Bay, where the regional

year to its dense 49 square miles containing its famously steep hills, thousands

The Great Outdoors

park district includes 65 parks covering

of restaurants offering an astonishing

One of the world’s largest urban parks—the

113,000 acres in Alameda and Contra Costa

variety of cuisines, different groups of

Golden Gate National Recreation Area—

counties. In the Santa Cruz mountains,

people, fascinating neighborhoods, parks,

stretches over 60 miles of Bay Area

amid several vast open space preserves lies

Victorian-era houses and world-class

coastline. The area encompasses beaches,

California’s oldest state park, Big Basin

museums and cultural activities.

historic sites, biking and hiking trails and

Redwoods, established in 1902.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

PIER 39

East Bay: Berkeley & Oakland

Heritage & Culture

Museum of Modern Art, the de Young

Early Mexican and Spanish explorers and

Museum and California Academy of Sci-

settlers in the Bay Area left their mark,

ences in Golden Gate Park. In Oakland,

mostly in place names but also in historic

there’s the Museum of California and, in

buildings from that era. San Francisco’s

Palo Alto, the Cantor Arts Center at Stan-

Mission Dolores, established in 1776, is the

ford. A lively art scene is found

oldest building in San Francisco and the

throughout the region and dozens of the-

oldest intact original Mission in Cali-

ater,

fornia. The patchwork design of its

companies are based here.

symphony

and

dance

beamed ceilings resembles local Native

Diverse cultural influences thrive in

American basket weaving. Other old mis-

pockets spread throughout the region,

sions are found elsewhere in the Bay Area:

including many from Asia: Japantown and

in Sonoma, San Rafael, Santa Clara, San

Chinatown in San Francisco, another

Jose and Santa Cruz.

Chinatown in Oakland and thriving Viet-

Vestiges of San Francisco’s colorful past,

namese and Southeast Asian communities

when the 1849 Gold Rush catapulted it from

in South Bay cities. Mexican and other

a hamlet to a large city almost overnight,

Latin American influences can be found

AQUARIUM OF THE BAY at Pier 39, above.

opera,

can still be seen in thousands of 19 -

throughout, particularly in San Francisco’s

century Victorians and quaint old quarters

Mission district, while Italian immigrants

such as Alamo Square and Jackson Square.

left their indelible mark in San Francisco’s

The Bay Area is home to world-class

North Beach and Sonoma and Napa wine-

museums, including the San Francisco

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2016

growing areas.

Family Fun Spend a day at the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, a century-old amusement park famous for The Giant Dipper, a 1920s-era

CHINESE NEW YEAR PARADE Feb. 20, San Francisco chineseparade.com CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL April 9-10, 16-17, San Francisco nccbf.org

roller coaster. On the San Mateo County coast, Half Moon Bay’s mid-October festival features

BAY TO BREAKERS May 15, San Francisco baytobreakers.com

pumpkin carving and pie-eating contests,

CARNAVAL May 28-29, San Francisco carnavalsanfrancisco.org

while nearby, Santa Clara’s Great America

ETHNIC DANCE FESTIVAL throughout June, San Francisco worldartswest.org STERN GROVE FESTIVAL Sundays, mid June-mid August, San Francisco sterngrove.org

theme park thrills visitors with the most water rides in Northern California. San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf and

GAY PRIDE WEEKEND June 25-26, San Francisco sfpride.org

Pier 39 are lined with shops, restaurants,

KITE FESTIVAL July 30-31, Berkeley highlinekites.com

street performers and even a colony of sea

ART FESTIVAL Sept. 3-5, Sausalito sausalitoartfestival.org

lions that wow crowds. The pier also offers an antique carousel and the Aquarium of

HARDLY STRICTLY BLUEGRASS Oct. 7-9, San Francisco hardlystrictlybluegrass.com

the Bay, with more than 20,000 marine

ART & PUMPKIN FESTIVAL Oct. 15-16, Half Moon Bay miramarevents.com

animals. Over in Golden Gate Park, the Cal-

UNION SQUARE TREE LIGHTING Nov. 25, San Francisco macys.com FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS Nov. 25, Yountville yountville.com

ifornia Academy of Sciences draws families with its penguin exhibit, a walkthrough rain forest and aquarium with a live coral reef tank.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

119

SAN FRANCISCO No wonder it’s known as “everyone’s favorite city”

COIT TOWER atop Telegraph Hill, above; live music at Pier 39, below; the Hyde Street cable car climbs from San Francisco’s Aquatic Park with Alcatraz and Angel Island in the background, opposite.

IN JUST 49 SQUARE MILES, San Francisco

Gate Bridge. The next two years will bring acres of

contains more scenic beauty, neighborhood

new landscaped areas, walking and biking trails

diversity, good food and range of arts and cul-

and a visitor center above the parkway.

ture than any U.S. city of its size. The landmark

The Round House, an Art Deco-style circular

Golden Gate Bridge, cable cars, Alcatraz and

building at the southeast foot of the Golden Gate

Fisherman’s Wharf are synonymous with the

Bridge reopened in 2015, giving bridge visitors a

City by the Bay, also known for an atmosphere

place to stop for food and drinks before browsing

of tolerance that stretches back to the Gold Rush

the adjacent Bridge Pavilion that provides infor-

when one of the largest migrations in human

mation and exhibits. In 2016, there’s also much

history brought thousands west.

new in San Francisco, including the permanent

San Francisco is one of the great U.S. cities for

installation of the 25,000 LED lights on the

food and dining, with renowned chefs, a wide

western span of the Bay Bridge that “perform” in

variety of ethnic cuisine and restaurant-mad locals

patterns created by light artist Leo Villareal. The

spending more on eating out than residents of any

Bay Lights are being re-installed in time for Super

other American city. Culture is abundant, with

Bowl 50 in February, which will turn the interna-

world-class museums, theater, opera, symphony

tional spotlight on San Francisco, officially the

and ballet, helped by a public commitment that

host city. The NFL Experience—an interactive

pre-dates the National Endowment for the Arts.

theme park—and a Super Bowl Fan Village are

There’s a tech-fueled vitality in many parts of the city: An influx of start-ups and young tech

Elsewhere in the city, the Original Ghirardelli

workers has led to a boom in restaurants, bars

Chocolate Manufactory at the Cannery reopened

and nightlife, especially in the vibrant Mission

after renovation with displays of more than 150

district and South of Market areas. At popular Off

years of chocolate-making history alongside the

The Grid events, groups of mobile food trucks

company’s perennially popular ice cream and

serve up gourmet food, including Sundays in the

chocolate shop.

Presidio and Friday evenings at Fort Mason.

T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

The major cultural development of 2016 is

The Presidio continues its stunning transfor-

the reopening of the expanded San Francisco

mation from Army base to a vast national park

Museum of Modern Art, scheduled for spring.

filled with historic sites, museums, artwork and

The doubling of the museum’s exhibit space

miles of walking and biking trails in forests and

makes room for The Doris and Donald Fisher

along the bay. In 2015, the Presidio Parkway tun-

Collection, considered one of the world’s finest

nels replaced a highway eyesore and smoothly

collections of modern art.

funnels traffic to and from the city and the Golden

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expected to host one million fans downtown.

For trip planning, see sanfrancisco.travel.

MARI CHING/SHUTTERSTOCK; PIER 39. OPPOSITE: T PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK

BY LAURA DEL ROSSO

BERKELEY Bastion of liberal thought, superb dining and performing arts

WORLD-FAMOUS as a historic center of

rants such as the organic, artisan-minded

DINE, » SHOP, GOLF, SEE A PLAY

free speech and 1960s counterculture,

Mission Heirloom eatery.

Berkeley Tourism Information visitberkeley.com

SUNSET OVER SAN FRANCISCO BAY and the Berkeley Campanile, above; Berkeley Kite Festival, below.

Berkeley, on the eastern shore of San Fran-

One-of-a-kind shopping abounds on

cisco Bay, has morphed into a foodie

Fourth Street, north of University Avenue

destination and unique arts and shopping

in West Berkeley; standouts include Miki’s

mecca. But it’s still Berkeley, proudly off-

Paper, which features hand-made Japanese

beat, quirky and fun to visit, especially now.

stationery and wrapping paper.

The Downtown Arts District on Addison

Gorgeous brown-shingle wooden homes

Street showcases the Berkeley Repertory

and public buildings by celebrated architects

Theatre, the Aurora Theatre Company and

Bernard Maybeck and Julia Morgan—who

the venerable folk music haven Freight &

adapted Arts and Crafts design to form the

Salvage Coffeehouse, which is both a per-

Bay Region style in the early 20th century—

formance venue and community-minded

enrich the city. Maybeck’s serene 1910 First

folk music learning center. Two major

Church of Christ, Scientist, just east of Tele-

venues are set to open downtown this year:

graph Avenue and south of the UC Berkeley

The new, 83,000-square-foot Berkeley Art

campus, is an architectural hymn to silence.

Archive

On campus, Cal Performances brings

(BAMPFA), at 2155 Center St. and, in later

international headliners to Zellerbach Hall.

months, the handsomely renovated UC

You can toast the artists and debate the true

Theatre, a 1917 cinema-turned-music per-

meaning of art in a plenitude of craft micro-

formance space on University Avenue just

breweries that dot the area near campus and

west of Shattuck Avenue. North Berkeley

beyond; the Berkeley Brew Trail highlights

along and near Shattuck is the city’s

places to sip hand-crafted suds; specifics

Gourmet Ghetto, with its jewel in the

are available from the city’s Visitor Informa-

crown, Chez Panisse, founded by the

tion Center, 2030 Addison St. Let’s not forget

doyenne of fresh, local, seasonal California

cocktails; they’re original and inspired at

cuisine, Alice Waters. The 1966 original

Tupper & Reed, located downtown. Got

Peet’s Coffee and Tea shop is right nearby,

golf? Certainly. You can tee it up at the 18-

as are excellent food markets, the Cheese

hole Tilden Park Golf Course, in the woodsy

Board cheese shop/bakery and fine restau-

Berkeley Hills above the bay.

Museum

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and

Pacific

Film

DANIEL PARKS/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; CDRIN/SHUTTERSTOCK

BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

HEALDSBURG Sonoma’s sophisticated, relaxed, wine country town

TASTE, BROWSE, » DINE, EXPLORE Healdsburg Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Bureau healdsburg.com WILLIAMS SELYEM WINERY, above; enjoying Healdsburg Plaza, below.

DATING FROM 1857, the centerpiece and

Street to see scores of colorful, well-pre-

defining feature of Healdsburg is its

served historic homes, many in use as

beloved Spanish style plaza designed by

B&Bs. Surrounded by vineyards, and located

Harmon Heald. The one-acre quadrangle,

just off Highway 101, Healdsburg is the

shaded by towering redwoods and date

ideal home base from which to explore the

palms, is grand in scale but has an intimate,

world-renowned wine appellations of

accessible feel. Possibly the liveliest plaza

Alexander Valley, Chalk Hill, Dry Creek

in Sonoma, it was recently voted one of

Valley and Russian River Valley. Wine, of

“America’s Most Beautiful Town Squares”

course, is a main focus of the town with

and Healdsburg was ranked among the best

more than 25 tasting rooms and wineries

small towns to visit in 2014.

within walking distance of its center.

The plaza plays host to numerous

Dining options are plentiful, from

events including the Antique Fair spon-

casual cafés to elite restaurants creating

sored by the Historical Society in May and

sublime seasonal fare incorporating the

the popular Beer and Sausage Festival in

bounty of local ingredients and show-

September. The highly regarded Healds-

casing regional wines. Although most

burg Jazz Festival held in early June takes

famous for its wine, Healdsburg also has a

place in various venues and locations

lively craft beer scene and is home to the

around the town. Throughout the summer

locally brewed Racer 5 India Pale Ale.

months, on Tuesday evenings, the plaza

Beyond the city center, the Russian River

transforms into an outdoor community

and peaceful stands of ancient redwoods are

living room where locals and visitors

the focal point for hiking and canoeing, and

gather for a free concert series.

the mostly flat back roads that wind through

From the plaza it’s a leisurely stroll to the many wine tasting rooms, artisan bakeries,

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

the vineyard valleys make the area a worldclass bicycling destination.

coffee spots, cheese shops, art galleries,

Sophisticated, yet rustic, Healdsburg,

bookshops and boutiques offering clothing,

with its agrarian roots, delivers small town

house wares and inspired one-of-a-kind

charm and a wine country lifestyle that’s

gifts. Or venture a few blocks off Center

both laid-back and luxurious.

DAVID SPENCER/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; HEALDSBURG CVB

BY MARCY GORDON

SAN JOSE & SILICON VALLEY High-tech, innovation, museums and more

BY LAURA DEL ROSSO TOP CITIES San Jose, Santa Clara, Sunnyvale, Cupertino, Los Gatos, Saratoga, Mountain View, Palo Alto, Menlo Park, Los Altos

an Jose and Silicon Valley, known worldwide for technology innovation, have come of age as centers for the arts, culture and attractions. The region will be in the national spotlight in February

when Santa Clara’s Levi’s Stadium hosts the NFL’s Super Bowl 50. In Palo Alto, one of the world’s leading private collections of modern American

San Francisco International Airport (SFO), 36 miles (58 km) north of downtown San Jose TOURISM WEBSITES sanjose.org santaclara.org sanmateocountycvb.com

art, the Anderson Collection, is drawing art lovers to its architecturally striking building on the Stanford campus. Downtown San Jose’s vibrant urban scene continues to grow with museums, galleries and robust dining and nightlife. San Jose Jazz, which presents more than 100 live music events annually, is one of many dynamic cultural groups.

POPULATION 1.8 million

The valley has undergone a dramatic change since the mid 20th century when farms, orchards and ranches lined Santa Clara Valley, and the area was called “The Valley of Heart’s Delight.” With the technology boom came the development of acres of office parks and an influx of bright, young entrepreneurs—and the new name, Silicon Valley. In the last decade, the vigorous economy led to a revitalization of cities whose residents are known more for their long workdays than nights on

SAN JOSE & SILICON VALLEY

the town. Visitors find pedestrian-friendly burgs, such as charming Saratoga and Los Gatos, with Michelin-starred restaurants and chic shops. Mountain View’s Castro Street and Palo Alto’s University Avenue are hop-

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FRANCESCO CARUCCI/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: MARIUSZ S. JURGIELEWICZ/SHUTTERSTOCK

INTERNATIONAL GATEWAYS San Jose International Airport (SJC), 4 miles (6 km) north of downtown San Jose

ping, and San Jose’s downtown and the

significant to Silicon Valley history: the

Santana Row district are alive with

HP Garage, the garage where Stanford

nightlife and attractions, including the

classmates Bill Hewlett and Dave Packard

Tech Museum, which pays homage to the

founded Hewlett-Packard in 1939.

valley’s innovative spirit. Palo Alto, home of Stanford University, also features a tiny museum

MUST

The valley also offers theme parks for

SEE, DO

families and outdoor recreation in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Nestled at the foot of the mountains are Saratoga and Los Gatos, hamlets with picture-perfect Victorian homes and

Stanford Art Stanford University’s campus

includes the Anderson Collection, a private modern American art collection that features

Craftsman bungalows. Vast stretches of

major works by Pollock, Still, Rothko and

parks, open space preserves and rows of

Diebenkorn, housed in a striking 33,000-square-

vineyards and winery tasting rooms

foot building. Next door is the Cantor Arts Center,

cluster in the surrounding mountains, as

which includes 24 galleries and one of the largest

well as south of San Jose, along the Hecker Pass Highway and around the city

collections of Rodin bronzes outside Paris.

›

stanford.edu

History Park Stretching over 14 acres, San

Jose’s History Park conveys the richness of Santa Clara Valley’s long history. The park features 27 FIVE WOUNDS PORTUGUESE National Church in San Jose, left; Lick Observatory on Mount Hamilton, opposite.

original and re-created buildings connected by running trolleys. Included are the ChineseAmerican Museum, the Portuguese Historical Museum and one of the first banks opened by A.P. Giannini, founder of the Bank of America, who was born in San Jose.

DRIVE

›

» TOUR

historysanjose.org

Planet Snoopy California’s Great America

theme park includes Gold Striker, Northern California’s tallest and fastest roller coaster, with

Starting in PALO ALTO, take in vibrant University Avenue and

PALO ALTO

high-speed turns and drops, one falling 103 feet at a 50-degree angle. In 2015 it expanded its Planet

drive the leafy lanes of the

STANFORD CAMPUS, stopping to see the mosaics in Memorial Church and the

MAIN QUAD. Head west on

SAN JOSE

SARATOGA

Snoopy children’s area to include three rides, taking kids on Snoopy’s skateboard, around a

LOS GATOS CASTLE ROCK STATE PARK

Sand Hill Road to Highway 280 south to revitalized downtown

SAN JOSE for a visit to the striking Tech Museum of Innovation. Take Highway 17 west to LOS

racetrack and on space buggies.

›

cagreatamerica.com

Super Bowl 50 Explore the venue of Super

Bowl 50 at Levi’s Stadium, the home of the NFL’s San Francisco 49ers. Ninety-minute public tours are conducted daily. Visits to the stadium’s 49ers Museum and its 11 galleries that trace the team’s

GATOS, stopping to enjoy the village-like downtown and its shady

history and a gourmet lunch are add-on options.

plaza, then head south on Highway 9 to the equally charming hamlet

›

levisstadium.com

of SARATOGA, nestled at the foot of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Continue on Highway 9 up into the mountains to Skyline Boulevard

(Highway 35), the crest of the range. Here you’ll find uncrowded

giants call Silicon Valley home and this museum

wineries, pristine forests and many open space preserves and parks, including CASTLE ROCK STATE PARK, the most spectacular. Follow

Computer History Museum Technology

explores their history and impact on society. Large-scale exhibits describe the creation of selfdriving cars, and are filled with the world’s largest

Skyline Boulevard south and rejoin Highway 17 east, which leads back

collection of computing hardware, software,

to San Jose and the heart of Silicon Valley.

ephemera and photographs.

›

computerhistory.org

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127

Stadium opened, the home of the San Francisco 49ers NFL team and the venue for Super Bowl 50 on Feb. 7.

Heritage and Culture San Jose offers a big-city cultural scene with first-rate museums that include the Tech Museum, where visitors discover what made Silicon Valley successful, the Children’s Discovery Museum, the San

INSIDER’S

» TIP

of Gilroy, which is home to an annual

Jose Museum of Art and the West Coast’s

Garlic Festival that draws thousands.

largest collection of ancient Egyptian arti-

With its Mediterranean climate of

facts at the Rosicrucian Egyptian Museum

warm summers and mild winters, and

and Planetarium. About 10 percent of San

Visitors to the Stanford campus

location 50 miles south of San Fran-

Jose’s population is Vietnamese, and this

can take advantage of several free

cisco and 30 miles inland from the

ethnic group has a strong presence partic-

tours, including a new

Pacific Ocean, it’s no wonder that Sil-

ularly in restaurants along Story Road and

HUMANITIES AND ART TOUR,

icon Valley developed as a world center

at the Museum of the Boat People in

which debuted in 2015.

for innovation, drawing some of the

charming History Park, which also fea-

Undergraduates are the guides,

best and brightest engineers in the

tures buildings representing Portuguese,

leading participants on tours of

world to a quiet valley where once only

Chinese, Italian and other ethnic commu-

BING CONCERT HALL, the

fruit trees blossomed.

nities that were instrumental in the city’s

ANDERSON COLLECTION, the CANTOR ARTS CENTER, the RODIN SCULPTURE GARDEN and the new McMURTRY BUILDING that houses the Department of Art and Art History. There’s also a SCIENCE

long history.

City and Town San Jose, the county seat of Santa Clara

The Great Outdoors

County, was founded in 1777 and today is

Wherever you are in Silicon Valley, beau-

the largest city in Northern California and

tiful open space is not far away. In

10 largest in the nation. Downtown has

downtown San Jose, Guadalupe River Park

undergone significant revitalization over

is a convenient greenbelt. Nearby Alum

the last decade, with historic buildings

Rock Park offers 720 acres filled with tree-

departments, where many of

such as the California Theatre on the

lined walking paths. Miles of roads in the

Silicon Valley’s top executives

same block where dozens of software

Santa Cruz Mountains lead to a diverse

once walked the halls as

companies have relocated. The adjacent

collection of county and state parks and

undergraduates.

city of Santa Clara features historic Mis-

open space preserves in redwood forests

visit.stanford.edu

sion Santa Clara de Asis and its lovely

ideal for camping, hiking, mountain

grounds on the campus of Santa Clara

biking or a simple picnic.

AND ENGINEERING QUAD TOUR that provides a look at two of the University’s highly regarded

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

DANIEL AUSTIN HOHERD/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; MARIUSZ S. JURGIELEWICZ/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: MARIUSZ S. JURGIELEWICZ/SHUTTERSTOCK; NAOTAKE MURAYAMA/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR

University. In 2014, the $1.2 billion Levi’s

Family Fun For fascinating local lore, head to the Winchester Mystery House, the 160-room

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2016

Victorian estate built by Sara Winchester, the heiress of Winchester Rifles. The huge house is creepy but beautiful at the same time, with its weird “Stairs to the Ceiling” that lead to nowhere, séance chambers and fine woodwork.

NFL SUPER BOWL 50 Feb. 7, Santa Clara sfbaysuperbowl.com SANTA CLARA WINERIES SPRING PASSPORT WEEKEND March 19-20, Santa Clara County santaclarawines.com DOWNTOWN FARMERS’ MARKET Fridays, 10 a.m.-2 p.m., May-Nov., San Jose pcfma.com

California’s Great America theme park

MOUNTAIN WINERY CONCERT SERIES July-Oct., Saratoga mountainwinery.com

offers the most thrill rides in Northern

CONNOISSEUR’S MARKETPLACE July 16-17, Menlo Park menloparkchamber.com

California and includes the massive Great Barrier Reef wave pool. Additional fun is

GILROY GARLIC FESTIVAL July 29-31, Gilroy gilroygarlicfestival.com

found at 23-acre Raging Waters in San

SANTA CLARA COUNTY FAIR Aug. 4-7, San Jose thefair.org

Jose, which bills itself as the region’s largest water park. San Jose’s Happy

SAN JOSE JAZZ SUMMER FEST Aug. 12-14, San Jose summerfest.sanjosejazz.org

Hollow Park and Zoo and Los Gatos’

ART AND WINE FESTIVAL Sept. 10-11, Mountain View miramarevents.com

Vasona Lake County Park, a lovely oasis

SANTA CLARA ART AND WINE FESTIVAL Sept. 17-18, Santa Clara santaclaraca.gov

with a train and 1915 carousel, are two other parks that kids love.

SANTA CLARA COUNTY FAIR, opposite left; San Jose Museum of Art, opposite top; annual Silicon Valley Duck Race in Vasona Lake Park, Los Gatos, below; climbing at Castle Rock State Park, right.

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129

SANTA CLARA Levi’s Stadium adds to city’s theme park fun, history and high-tech

BY LAURA DEL ROSSO LEVI’S STADIUM, home of the San Francisco 49ers, above; dining in Levi’s stadium, below.

SANTA CLARA, just an hour south of San

water park, California’s Great America,

Francisco in the heart of tech capital Silicon

which offers more than 100 acres of rides

Valley, has stepped into the national spot-

and shows. The park, open late March

light as home to Levi’s Stadium, host of the

through October, expanded with the Planet

National Football League’s Super Bowl 50.

Snoopy play area last year. Rides include an

Not only is the 69,900-seat stadium

interactive ride aboard Snoopy’s giant

home to the San Francisco 49ers, but it also

skateboard, a Peanuts 500 race-car ride and

hosts college football, domestic and inter-

Snoopy’s Space Buggies, which lifts astro-

national soccer, concerts and other special

nauts high in the air for a lunar landing. The

events. Its 20,000-square-foot 49ers

vast Boomerang Bay water park features

Museum celebrates the team’s history in 11

water slides, rivers for tubing and pools.

galleries and interactive exhibit spaces

Elsewhere in the city, sports fans will

devoted to sports history, Super Bowl

find plenty to cheer. The city hosts major

Championships and the Lombardi Tro-

swim meets at the George F. Haines Inter-

phies. The museum and the stadium are

national Swim Center, and Santa Clara

open for tours and visits year-round.

University holds NCAA Division 1 athletic competitions year-round.

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Theme Park Fun, Sports, Shopping & Festivals

plete without a look into the innovative high

Families find entertainment and thrills at

tech giants of Silicon Valley. At the Intel

California’s only combination theme and

Museum at corporate headquarters, visitors

A visit to Santa Clara wouldn’t be com-

see how computer chips are made in an automated chip factory and how the valley’s engineers shaped and changed society. Some of Silicon Valley’s best shopping is found at Santa Clara’s Westfield Valley Fair mall, which is across the street from the high-end Santana Row shopping district. Santa Clara also draws visitors to its Triton Museum of Art with an emphasis on

SANTA CLARA CVB; SANTA CLARA CVB; MARIUSZ S. JURGIELEWICZ/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: SANTA CLARA CVB.

Bay Area artists and popular events, including an annual Art and Wine Festival

is the oldest college in California. The cur-

in September, Pacific International Quilt

rent Mission Church was built in 1925 after

Festival in October, and the spine-tingling

a fire destroyed the previous 19th-century

Halloween Haunt in October.

building. Statues, paintings, liturgical

GOLD STRIKER roller coaster at California’s Great America, top left; Santa Clara Convention Center, above; Mission Santa Clara de Asís, below.

objects, one bell and the flavor of the

Mission Santa Clara de Asis & Santa Clara University

Spanish-style architecture remain. A new

Santa Clara has a long history that’s closely

church, flanked by historic gardens.

pedestrian-only walkway leads to the

tied with that of California. The fertile

Also on the Santa Clara University

valley that became known as Santa Clara

campus is the de Saisset Art Museum,

Valley and more recently, Silicon Valley,

whose most significant feature is a Cali-

was inhabited by the Ohlone when Spain

fornia history collection. Artifacts that

began colonizing California. Franciscan

trace Santa Clara history include a corner-

missionaries established 21 missions that

stone uncovered in an archaeological

stretched from San Diego to Sonoma,

excavation and 18th-century woodwork and

choosing a spot in the valley in 1777 for

art. The museum also houses European art

their eighth mission. They named it Mis-

from the Renaissance to the 19th century,

sion Santa Clara de Asis after Saint Clare.

including prints by Durer and Piranesi;

Visitors are welcome to visit the Mis-

modern works by Chagall, Matisse and

sion Church and adjacent Mission Gardens

Picasso; and prints by San Francisco Bay

on the beautiful campus of Santa Clara

Area artists Arneson, Diebenkorn, Neri,

University. Founded in 1851, the university

Thiebaud and others.

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131

MONTEREY BAY & BIG SUR The real “laid-back” California

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY San Francisco International Airport (SFO), 62 miles (100 km) from Santa Cruz; 101 miles (163 km) from Monterey TOURISM WEBSITES santacruzca.org seemonterey.com carmelcalifornia.com pacificgrove.org www.ci.salinas.ca.us

tretching south of one of the largest urban areas of the state—the San Francisco Bay Area—the coastal region from Santa Cruz through Big Sur is the ideal place to slow down and adopt a Cali-

fornia-style appreciation of the great outdoors and a laid-back lifestyle. With views that rival the rest of the state all packed into one area, this is where many Californians vacation, ditch workday stress and relax within earshot of the crashing waves of the Pacific Ocean. The two biggest population centers of the region are Santa Cruz and the Monterey Peninsula. In historic Monterey, small-town Pacific Grove and fashionable artist retreat Carmel-by-the-Sea, there are beautiful beaches, ample performing and fine arts venues, outdoor pursuits, stylish

POPULATION 700,000

shops, epicurean delights and an inland region known for wine and agriculture. Much of the same can be said of funky Santa Cruz, but away from the redwoods, the university town resembles a beachside playground, with its historic boardwalk and many surf spots. The grand Big Sur coastline inspired artist Francis McComas to claim that the area was the “greatest meeting of land and sea,” and the wild coast perched on the edge of the continent has lured artists and fans of the great outdoors to enjoy its remoteness as well as its rich restaurant choices—

MONTEREY BAY & BIG SUR

from Nepenthe to the Big Sur Bakery and Restaurant. On the other side of the Santa Lucia Range lie the otherworldly spires and crags of Pinnacles National Park, an extinct volcano on a long voyage north on the edge of

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

SONGQUAN DENG/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: LUCKY-PHOTOGRAPHER/SHUTTERSTOCK; SEEMONTEREY.COM

TOP CITIES Santa Cruz, Monterey, Carmel, Pacific Grove, Salinas

MUST the San Andreas Fault. Both regions are

the stars, fresh regional cuisine, world-

havens for hikers, bikers, climbers,

famous wines, getting active outdoors

campers and birdwatchers.

or a leisurely beachcombing stroll—all

Wine lovers won’t have much chance to miss Napa and Sonoma, with

SEE, DO

can be found here, and nobody’s rushing you.

a wealth of quality vineyards in this region. From Carmel Valley to the

City & Town

Monterey River Road, there are more

Downtown Santa Cruz is between the

than enough award-winning wines to

city’s vibrant beach attractions and the

go around.

mountains, where redwood groves

With such rich and varied geography,

embrace the University of California at

it’s a blessing that the wonders of Mon-

Santa Cruz. Monterey’s Fisherman’s

terey Bay and Big Sur are laid wide open

Wharf is just steps from the city’s his-

for residents and visitors to appreciate

toric buildings that date from the 18th

them. Whether your preference is a

and 19th centuries—before California was

charming urban escape, camping under

part of the United States. Made famous

Wild Coast Cruise Highway 1 along the majestic Big Sur coast, where the sky touches the sea. › bigsurcalifornia.org

California Condors Get a close-up view of soaring California condors from the High Peaks trail of Pinnacles National Park. › nps.gov/pinn

Mission Style Set among flowering gardens, Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo is one of the most beautiful of California’s missions. › carmelmission.org

Dead Central Get a colorful look at exhibits from the Grateful Dead Archive, on display at the University of California Santa Cruz McHenry Library. › library.ucsc.edu/grateful-dead-archive/about

Historic Fun Ride two National Historic Landmarks, the Giant Dipper and the Looff Carousel, at the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk. › beachboardwalk.com

INSIDER’S

» TIP

The best views of some spectacular surf moves are from the cliffs overlooking Steamer Lane, near THE SANTA CRUZ SEASCAPE in Big Sur, opposite; Walton Lighthouse, Santa Cruz, above; Carmel Mission, right.

SURFING MUSEUM. Grab a spot by the railing to watch top-notch surfers get some sweet rides, and then head on in to the museum to see the best in Santa Cruz surfing history. santacruzsurfingmuseum.org

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MONTEREY CANNING COMPANY on Cannery Row, right; sea nettle jellyﬁsh at Monterey Bay Aquarium, below.

by John Steinbeck’s eponymous novel, Cannery Row has morphed from a fishing center to a bustling street with shops and ocean-view restaurants. Steinbeck’s hometown, Salinas, is a working-class agricultural city, known as the “Salad Bowl of the World.” Carmel, a freethinker’s retreat born as an artist village, is home to stylish shops, exquisite dining and top-notch art.

The Great Outdoors

DRIVE

» TOUR

While well-known urban areas dot this region, there’s more than enough wideopen space for fans of the outdoors. Take a whale watching boat tour in Monterey Bay, where you can spot migrating gray,

California coast by starting on

humpback and blue whales. Seventeen-

HIGHWAY 1 and drive south, from

Mile Drive in Pebble Beach winds through

Santa Cruz through the

forest and along the Pacific coastline as it

MONTEREY PENINSULA. Once you

skirts exclusive golf courses and resorts.

pass CARMEL, you enter the 90-mile

The eerie-looking spires and monoliths

stretch of California coastline

of Pinnacles National Park lure climbers

between Carmel and SAN SIMEON

as well as hikers interested in the explo-

called BIG SUR, shoehorned

sion of colorful spring wildflowers and

between the ocean and the Santa

soaring California condors.

Lucia Mountains. The road twists and turns along the wild coast, so take your time and be sure to stop and enjoy the view along the way.

In Big Sur, where rocky cliffs drop into the Pacific Ocean and cypress trees twist in the wind, nature lovers can walk along the beach or hike deep into redwood forests, where waterfalls spring to life.

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TASFOTONL/SHUTTERSTOCK; KEN WOLTER/SHUTTERSTOCK

Trace a beautiful path along the

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2016

Heritage & Culture The inland region is dominated by agriculture—from the Salinas salad bowl to Carmel Valley wines—while the coast is

AT&T PEBBLE BEACH NATIONAL PRO-AM Feb. 8-14, Pebble Beach attpbgolf.com STEINBECK’S BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION Feb. 27, Salinas steinbeck.org JAZZ BASH BY THE BAY March 4-6, Monterey jazzbashmonterey.com PEBBLE BEACH FOOD & WINE March 31-April 3, Pebble Beach pbfw.com STEINBECK FESTIVAL May 6-8, Salinas steinbeck.org

home to fishermen, artists, surfers and a booming tourism industry. Don’t think the model of the easy-going Californian only exists on Orange County beaches. Whether it’s a chef from Carmel, an artist from Santa Cruz or a farmer from Soledad—all take time to enjoy Monterey Bay and Big Sur.

CARMEL ART FESTIVAL May 13-15, Carmel carmelartfestival.org CARMEL BACH FESTIVAL July 16-30, Carmel bachfestival.org

Family Fun No matter your age, you can’t go wrong at

GILROY GARLIC FESTIVAL July 29-31, Gilroy gilroygarlicfestival.com

the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, with rides

FEAST OF LANTERNS July 27-31, Pacific Grove feast-of-lanterns.org

and entertainment for everyone. The Monterey Peninsula is a wonderland for

PEBBLE BEACH CONCOURS D’ELEGANCE Aug. 21, Pebble Beach pebblebeachconcours.net

families, with historic sites, accessible

CAPITOLA BEGONIA FESTIVAL Sept. 2-5, Capitola begoniafestival.com

beaches, Dennis the Menace Park, the Monterey Bay Aquarium and a wealth of outdoor activities. South through Big Sur, camping

BUTTERFLY PARADE Oct. 1, Pacific Grove seemonterey.com/regions/pacific-grove

options abound along the wild coast, and

FIRST NIGHT MONTEREY Dec. 31, Monterey firstnightmonterey.org

the variety of hiking paths can lead you to a pink-sand beach or a seaside waterfall. Inland, get a look at California’s pre-statehood past and follow the California Missions Trail along Highway 101.

Monarch butterﬂy, above; kids at Monterey tide pools, right.

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SEEMONTEREY.COM. OPPOSITE: RICK K. WONG/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; ERIC CHAN/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR

MONTEREY JAZZ FESTIVAL Sept. 16-18, Monterey montereyjazzfestival.org

GILROY Great outdoors attractions for all ages BY JILL K. ROBINSON

WITH MILES OF TRAILS, amusement

The region’s wineries offer tastings and

parks full of gardens and agricultural mas-

tours for the grape-obsessed, and local

tery, there is enough in Gilroy to please

restaurants often include Gilroy’s beloved

everyone in the family. This Santa Clara

garlic. The dedicated garlic heads come for

Gilroy Tourism Information

County city is well known as the Garlic

the Gilroy Garlic Festival at the end of July—

Capital of the World, but the annual fes-

a three-day celebration of food and drink,

gilroywelcomecenter.org

tival that celebrates the pungent plant is

music, arts and family entertainment.

only one of Gilroy’s many attractions.

Shoppers enjoy searching for special buys

GOLF, » GARLIC, WINE, FUN!

Start with a visit to 4,595-acre Coyote Lake/Harvey Bear Ranch park. It’s possible to FAMILY DAY at Gilroy Gardens, top; garlic harvesting contestant at the Gilroy Garlic Festival, below.

at the 145 designer and name-brand stores at Gilroy Premium Outlets.

spend more than a day here, with local

Walk back in time near downtown

wildlife exhibits, a 635-acre lake for fishing

Gilroy, where more than 75 historic build-

and boating, camping and boat-launch facil-

ings allow history buffs to meander at their

ities, and miles of hiking, bicycle and horse

own pace to learn more about the region

trails winding through oak canyons. The

once called “Pleasant Valley” and the

Gilroy Gardens family theme park lures fam-

town’s founder, John Cameron Gilroy.

ilies with more than 40 fun rides, exhibits

Favorite stops include the City Museum (in

and majestic gardens (including the leg-

a building that housed the town’s first

endary “circus trees”). Once just a fruit

public library) and Old City Hall. A dif-

stand, Casa de Fruta is another popular des-

ferent kind of history haunts The Milias

tination for travelers, from its Casa de Choo

Restaurant, where friendly ghosts tap

Choo miniature locomotive to antique farm

patrons on the shoulder and move kitchen

machinery and freshly baked treats.

items around.

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139

MONTEREY COUNTY Early California history and modern wine

WITH ITS GARDENS and old adobe

Monterey appellation, so wine fans will

» WINE & DINE,

buildings from California’s Spanish and

enjoy visiting vineyards, wine bars, tasting

Mexican eras, it’s quickly evident that Mon-

rooms, and shopping for wine with labels

PLAY GOLF!

terey has an important place in state

denoting the region’s best new vintages from

history. That doesn’t mean Monterey

Arroyo Seco, Carmel Valley, Chalone, Hames

County’s best days are in the past. The

Valley, San Antonio Valley, San Bernabe, San

region regularly adds to its tried-and-true

Lucas and Santa Lucia Highlands.

SIGHTSEE,

Monterey County Convention & Visitors Bureau seemonterey.com

THE MONTEREY BAY AQUARIUM, above; winery on Highway G16, Carmel Valley, below.

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

highlights, pleasing both locals and visitors.

Among Pebble Beach’s famed golf

One of the best ways to see Monterey

courses with spectacular views, Pebble

through a resident’s eyes, complete with his-

Beach Golf Links is on every golfer’s dream

torical and cultural elements (but based on

list. But that’s not the only place in Mon-

your preferences), is a private tour with

terey County where you can play next to

Tours by Locals. Learn more about Old Mon-

the pros. Pebble Beach is also home to

terey, John Steinbeck’s Cannery Row, the

Poppy Hills and Spyglass Hill, two courses

city’s most famous attractions, or combine

that have co-hosted the AT&T National

two in one day with a Monterey and Carmel

Pro-Am. The nearby Del Monte Golf Course

tour. Be sure to ask your guide for her favorite

is the site of the Callaway Golf Pebble

local restaurant or bar to add to your list.

Beach Invitational and First Tee Open. At

Wine grapes were first introduced to the

Poppy Hills, golfers can also choose to

region by the Franciscan Friars near the

advance directly to Porter’s in the Forest

Soledad Mission in southern Monterey

restaurant—a far cry from the traditional

County. Today, Monterey County encom-

clubhouse café with its farm-to-table

passes eight smaller American Viticultural

menu, outdoor dining and panoramic view

Areas (AVAs) in addition to the larger

of the Del Monte Forest.

RANDY WILDER/SEEMONEREY.COM; RANDY ANDY/SHUTTERSTOCK

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

CENTRAL COAST Endless and uncrowded beaches

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

TOP CITIES Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, Paso Robles, Morro Bay, Cambria, Ventura, Lompoc, Solvang, Pismo Beach

ining the coast south of Big Sur to Santa Barbara is a string of small

INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), 98 miles (158 km) from Santa Barbara; 192 miles (309 km) from San Luis Obispo

beach towns, assembled just above the high-tide line of the Pacific Ocean, as if they’re merely part of the ocean’s treasure. Southern

California may get prime beach town attention, but it’s California’s Central Coast region that has it all, except for the crowds vying for each sandy square foot. If you’re looking for a place to learn to chill-out like a local, get some fun and sun, escape the hustle and bustle, and sample some of the best food and wine in California, pack your bags for the Central Coast. The biggest population center is the Santa Barbara area, with its white Spanish-style buildings and red-tiled roofs. In Santa Barbara, there are vast beaches, plenty of fine arts venues, bright boutiques, outdoor adventures, culinary tastes and an inland region (the Santa Ynez Valley, featured in the movie Sideways) known for wine and Santa Maria barbecue. Visitors can tour hilltop Hearst Castle, see hulking elephant seals at

POPULATION 1,542,000

Piedras Blancas, relax in the sleepy beach towns of Cayucos and Morro Bay, or find some action in college-town San Luis Obispo. Fresh seafood often tastes best with a view of the ocean, and the old-fashioned piers of Avila Beach and Pismo Beach are ideal spots to take that meal break. Ventura’s Mission San Buenaventura is the last of the California missions

CENTRAL COAST

founded by Junipero Serra. The oceanside town is also a jumping-off point for adventures in Channel Islands National Park, called “California’s Galápagos,” with tide pools, kelp forests and unique flora and fauna species.

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RON BERG. OPPOSITE: SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY CVB; ONX WINES

TOURISM WEBSITES sanluisobispocounty.com santabarbaraca.com travelpaso.com morrobay.org cambriachamber.org visitventuraca.com lompoc.com solvangusa.com classiccalifornia.com

Even though the Central Coast region’s

perches on pine-forested hills above the

main highlight is indeed, its coast, the

ocean, and has galleries and antique

varied geography and moderate climate

shops. Laid-back Cayucos is an old-school

ensure that there are plenty of treats for

beach retreat with a surf break and fishing

visitors to find. Whether your preference

pier near the main drag. Morro Bay’s land-

is digging for clams, surfing the perfect

mark, an ancient volcanic peak emerging

wave, strolling Mediterranean-style village

from the ocean floor, stands at the

streets, sampling fresh regional cuisine

entrance to a beautiful estuary.

and world-famous wines, or lazing on the

Tucked between the ocean and the Santa

beach, it’s all right here on the Central

Ynez Mountains, Santa Barbara is often

Coast—and there’s enough for everyone.

called the “American Riviera” because of its Mediterranean climate and red-tiled build-

City & Town

ings. Head inland to artist enclave Ojai to

South of Big Sur, the sweep of coastline is

unwind and take in the “pink moment”

dotted with small beach towns. Cambria

sunsets—the color of cotton candy.

MUST

SEE, DO

Pink Moment Look to the east for the setting sun’s reflection on the bluffs of the Topatopa Mountains in Ojai for a brilliant pink sunset. › ojaicity.org

Spanish History Get a glimpse into Santa Barbara’s origins with a visit to Mission Santa Barbara, known as “Queen of the Missions.” › santabarbaramission.org

Castle on a Hill Visit Hearst Castle, the over-the-top estate that William Randolph Hearst called “the ranch.” › hearstcastle.org

Volcanic Sister Walk out to the base of Morro Rock, one of a series of volcanic plugs known as the Nine Sisters of San Luis Obispo County, in Morro Bay. › morrobay.org

American Riviera Step off Stearns Wharf in Santa Barbara and stroll along the miles of beaches studded with palm trees. › santabarbaraca.com A ROMANTIC MOMENT on the beach at Santa Barbara, opposite; Pismo Beach seascape, above; wine tasting among the vines in Paso Robles, right.

INSIDER’S

» TIP

THE FASTEST GROWING WINE REGION in California isn’t Napa or Sonoma. Paso Robles recently added 11 sub-AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) to distinguish the differences in terroir in its entire growing region. Try some at Paso Robles’ best wineries and tasting rooms. pasowine.com

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143

SURFER at Morro Bay, left; Jeep ride at Adelaide, San Luis Obispo County, above; Hunter Ranch Golf Course, opposite left; Santa Barbara Mission, opposite top right; downtown Solvang. opposite bottom right.

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2016

The Great Outdoors Even though Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo are larger than the rest of the beach towns, there’s enough space throughout

SANTA BARBARA INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Feb. 3-13, Santa Barbara sbiff.org WINTER WINE CLASSIC Feb. 20, Santa Barbara californiawinefestival.com

the Central Coast region to find ample breathing room. Hike to the top of Bishop Peak, the tallest of the Nine Sisters, a chain

SAN LUIS OBISPO INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL March 15-20, San Luis Obispo slofilmfest.org TASTE OF SOLVANG March 16-20, Solvang solvangusa.com PASO ROBLES WINE FESTIVAL May 19-22, Paso Robles pasowine.com/events/winefestival.php CALIFORNIA STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL May 21-22, Oxnard strawberry-fest.org I MADONNARI May 28-30, Santa Barbara imadonnarifestival.com

of volcanic peaks. Take advantage of some sweet surf spots and catch the perfect wave. Head out from Santa Barbara on a whale watching tour to see some of the largest mammals in the Pacific Ocean. On the Carrizo Plain, considered the largest single native grassland in the state, it’s possible to see surface fractures of the

LOS OLIVOS JAZZ & OLIVE FESTIVAL June 4, Los Olivos jazzandolivefestival.org SUMMER SOLSTICE CELEBRATION June 24-26, Santa Barbara solsticeparade.com

San Andreas Fault. The Los Padres National Forest stretches across the scenic Coast and Transverse ranges, and offers a

SAN BENITO COUNTY SADDLE HORSE SHOW & RODEO June 24-26, Hollister sanbenitocountyrodeo.com

wealth of opportunities for fishing,

GOLETA LEMON FESTIVAL Sept. 24-25, Goleta lemonfestival.com

among tide pools and kelp forests where

hiking, camping and bicycling. Kayak sea otters live in Morro Bay, or just amble

EPICURE.SB Oct. 1-31, Santa Barbara santabarbaraca.com

along miles of scenic beaches and dig your toes in the sand.

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Heritage & Culture Many place names on the Central Coast remain from Native American tribes, as well

DRIVE

» TOUR

as Spanish and Mexican settlers. The California missions and other well-preserved

Get more than a glimpse of

buildings still remain from pre-statehood Cal-

the Central Coast by driving

ifornia. The Central Coast’s inland region has

south of Big Sur on

a wealth of land for agriculture—from wine to

Highway 1 past the small

olives—but farmers here are just as comfort-

beach towns of CAMBRIA,

able taking a quick trip to the wide, sandy

MORRO BAY and PISMO

beaches during breaks from the harvest. Even

BEACH. Be sure to stop

though Santa Barbara is the big city in the

regularly to sample local

area, it has a relaxing vibe that would suffo-

delicacies, whether caught

cate in a second in downtown Los Angeles.

from oceanside piers or made by hand in beach-

Family Fun The Central Coast is rich with adventure for families, including plenty of beaches and outdoor space, historic sites and water activities. View underwater life on a semi-submersible tour in Morro Bay. Discover how the ocean has shaped the

town bakeries. The highway cuts inland for a short jog after San Luis Obispo, but pops back to the beach before approaching the Santa Ynez Mountains and posh SANTA BARBARA.

history of the Central Coast at the Santa Barbara Maritime Museum. Go camping in the Channel Islands or Los Padres National Forest. Even picking your own berries at a local farm is far

TRAVELPASO.COM. OPPOSITE: J. MCPHAIL/SHUTTERSTOCK; TRAVELPASO.COM

more fun when you can smell the ocean air.

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145

VENTURA Beach haven and North America’s Galápagos

THE ORIGINAL NAME of this California

table overlooking the ocean to enjoy a meal

BIKE, PADDLE, » SWIM, STROLL

city, San Buenaventura, labels it as a city of

of fresh, local seafood and wine. The

good fortune. And Ventura, with its beau-

harbor arcade, carousel and ice cream shop

tiful beach setting framed by mountains

will easily figure into a child’s dream list.

Ventura Visitors & Convention Bureau

and the Channel Islands, does indeed

visitventuraca.com

make visitors feel as if they’ve stumbled

Channel Islands Adventures

upon a bit of good fortune in finding this

Adventures abound at the Ventura Harbor

scenic spot along California’s central coast.

Village—from kayak and stand-up paddle-

Start with your toes in the surf, because

board rentals in the harbor to whale watching

Ventura’s miles of beaches stretching from

trips to boat trips to visit the Channel Islands

Surfer’s Point to Ventura Harbor are one of

National Park and Marine Sanctuary. Also

the city’s star attractions. Take a long walk,

known as North America’s Galápagos, this

lounge in the sun or grab a board and enjoy

string of five islands and its surrounding

the water yourself. The south-facing water-

waters are home to an abundance of wildlife,

front and breaks along the beaches are

including whales, dolphins, foxes and even

essential qualities that lure surfers from

bald eagles. Hike along miles of trails to enjoy

far and wide, so you owe it to yourself to

the spectacular views of the islands’ rugged

either try it out or settle down to watch a

beauty, or take advantage of the various

few surf sessions.

water-based activities and snorkel, dive, surf

Another reminder of how much the

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or kayak in island sea caves.

Pacific Ocean figures into the daily life of

The Channel Islands National Park is

Ventura can be found at Ventura Harbor

also known as an important breeding and

Village. Wander through the boutiques for

resting area for a variety of seabirds. Back

that perfect souvenir, or score an outdoor

on the mainland, birders have more to

HAYDEN BERGER; KAMILO BUSTAMANTE. OPPOSITE: KAMILO BUSTAMANTE; KAMILO BUSTAMANTE; CONNOR DETKO

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

VENTURA AT DUSK, opposite top; surfer at Ventura Pier, opposite bottom; Santa Cruz Island hiking, right; Mission San Buenaventura, center right; Ventura harbor, below.

choose from for viewing feathered friends. With a varied elevation from sea level to 8,831 feet at the summit of Mount Pinos, the area is rich with bird life. Up to 457 bird species have been recorded in the county, which includes globally important bird areas such as Mugu Lagoon and the Los Padres National Forest.

What’s Cooking Downtown Early California history has a special place

foodie scene, the downtown area is an

in Ventura’s historic downtown cultural

ideal base for visitors. Tour along, using

district, which began as Father Junipero

the free trolley that runs between down-

Serra’s final mission settlement. Meander

town and Ventura Harbor Village, stopping

through downtown to see Mission San

at major attractions and most major hotels.

Buenaventura and the historic homes,

Wine lovers can easily duck into a

museums, boutiques, antique shops and

downtown wine bar to taste the best of Cal-

restaurants that dot the palm tree-lined

ifornia’s Central Coast, which is recognized

streets. With a wealth of family-owned

as one of the world’s leading wine growing

stores, cultural arts and thriving music and

regions. If you want to get closer to the

winemaking process, stop by the Ventura Visitors Center to learn about the Ventura County Wine Trail, which has a handful of wineries that you can visit on your own or on an organized tour, like the Sip and Savor Wine Tour, which features some of Ventura’s wine tasting rooms. Ventura’s thriving music scene counts more than 35 venues offering live music, along with dozens of special events and festivals annually. On nearly any day of the year, you can check out local bands, solo artists and musicians who play just about every genre of music—and you never know who will be sitting in with the band.

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147

PISMO BEACH Classic California beach town BY JILL K. ROBINSON

DINE, BEACH » COMB, PLAY, EXPLORE! Pismo Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau classiccalifornia.com

PICTURE YOUR IDEA of a classic Cali-

While famous Pismo Clam (one of the

fornia beach town, and Pismo Beach may

largest types of clam found along the Cali-

look exactly like what’s in your mind. A

fornia Coast) has become scarce, folks here

sandy strand, a wooden pier and surfers

still love to go clamming on Pismo’s

out past the break—waiting for the perfect

beaches. Offshore, you can spy sea otters,

wave. It sits on California’s Central Coast,

migrating whales, seals and tide pool

midway between San Francisco and Los

inhabitants without having to get too wet.

Angeles, encouraging territorial Northern

Following their annual migration, thou-

and Southern California residents to claim

sands of monarch butterflies drip from the

it equally.

limbs of eucalyptus and Monterey pine

Start with a walk on the 1,370-foot-long SURFERS AT PISMO BEACH, above; surrey ride on the promenade, below.

trees from late October through February.

Pismo Beach Pier, which allows a peek at the ocean and the beach below as easily as

Pismo’s Great Outdoors

it provides an optimal vantage point to

With six state beaches, two nature preserves

look back at land and view the homes,

and three state parks within a 30-minute

hotels, restaurants and shops in town.

drive of town, Pismo Beach is an outdoors

From there, plan your itinerary.

fan’s dream. Discover these reserves on foot

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Wine Country and Wildlife

borne adventure are kayak, surfboard, and

Pismo Beach lets visitors divide their time

stand-up paddle board. Even at a slow pace,

between the waves of the Pacific Ocean and

one of the ideal ways to commune with

the winemaking regions of Edna Valley,

Pismo’s coastal environment is to snag a

Arroyo Grande and Avila Valley, located

sandy spot on the beach for a sunset picnic.

only 30 minutes outside of town. And even

Sports enthusiasts can find plenty to do

if you’re strolling through downtown

around Pismo, whether their favorite pas-

Pismo Beach, many restaurants include a

time is golf, fishing, surfing, kayaking,

few local wines on their extensive wine

kiteboarding, or horseback riding. And

lists, to be paired with fresh wine-country-

once all the activity is over, the beach is

inspired cuisine.

still there, beautiful as ever.

PISMO BEACH CVB

or by bike, while your best options for water-

NORTH COAST The “Land of the Giants” is a lush region of redwood forests, fishing harbors and Victorian villages

TOP CITIES Mendocino, Eureka, Crescent City, Fort Bragg, Garberville, Arcata, Ukiah, Cloverdale, Ferndale

TOURISM WEBSITES exploredelnorte.com northcoastca.com redwoods.info visitmendocino.com POPULATION 782,000

ntil you’ve seen one up close, it’s hard to grasp just how neck-craningly tall a coastal redwood tree is. Remember the gargantuan Saturn V, the 35-story-high rocket that sent

astronauts to the moon? The largest Sequoia sempervirens grow even higher, topping out at 379 feet. These 3,000-year-old arboreal titans— nature’s loftiest skyscrapers—grow in only one place in the world: a narrow strip of fog-shrouded mountains along California’s wild and relatively unvisited North Coast.

The Redwood Highway Old-growth redwoods are preserved in a chain of parks strung along Highway 101, known in these parts as the Redwood Highway. In southern Humboldt County, Humboldt Redwoods State Park straddles the scenic drive known as the Avenue of the Giants. In northern Humboldt and Del Norte counties, a cluster of parks—Redwood

NORTH COAST

National Park and Prairie Creek Redwoods, Del Norte Coast Redwoods and Jedediah Smith Redwoods state parks—form one contiguous redwood reserve.

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DON LEONARD. OPPOSITE: VICTORIA DITKOVSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK

GATEWAY The Arcata-Eureka Airport (EKA), 16 miles (26 km) from downtown Eureka, has service from San Francisco and other hubs, but no international flights

BY JOHN FLINN

MUST

SEE, DO

Big Footin’ The Bigfoot Collection is the big attraction at the Willow Creek-China Flat Museum in the mountain community of Willow Creek. Plaster footprint casts, photos and pop culture artifacts tell the story of the mysterious beast. › bigfootcountry.net The sounds of chainsaws and buzzing sawmills that once dominated the North Coast are rapidly fading as the lumber industry winds down. In former mill towns such as Fort Bragg, tourism is replacing timber as innovative galleries, restaurants and brew-pubs spring to life. Although it’s sometimes called the Redwood Empire, the North Coast is more than just tall trees: It’s also salmon-fishing boats LADY WASHINGTON at Humboldt Bay’s marina, opposite; the Carson Mansion is an elegant Victorian house in Old Town Eureka, above.

bobbing in tiny harbors; Roosevelt elk bugling across misty meadows; steam trains chuffing through a damp and dripping forest; hole-in-

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2016 TALL SHIPS AHOY Watch a recreation of an 18th-century naval battle in Humboldt Bay as two classic tall ships, the Lady Washington and the Hawaiian Chieftain, skirmish with cannon fire (blanks only) and close-quarter maneuvers. April 15-20. redwoods.info KINETIC SCULPTURE RACE Peripatetic artists of genius or possibly borderline insanity gather each Memorial Day weekend to race giant, whimsical, people-powered sculptures from Arcata to Ferndale along a 40-mile course that includes a crossing of Humboldt Bay. It’s called “the triathalon of the art world.” May 28-30. kineticgrandchampionship.com BIGFOOT DAYS The earliest and most persistent sightings of that elusive creature known as Bigfoot have happened around the Siskiyou Mountain town of Willow Creek. Each year on Labor Day weekend, the community fetes its furry friend with Bigfoot Days. Don’t expect to see the big guy himself, but you’ll encounter a number of people who claim to have met him. Sept. 5 bigfootcountry.net

Big Eatin’ To satisfy a lumberjack-sized appetite, drive across Humboldt Bay on the Samoa Bridge to the Samoa Cookhouse for colossal, allyou-can-eat meals served family style. The last surviving cookhouse of its kind in the U.S., it’s been serving hungry mill workers, longshoremen and tourists since 1890. › samoacookhouse.net

Ferry Tales Tour Humboldt Bay aboard the Maraket, the last of a fleet of tiny ferries that once carried mill workers to their jobs. It’s the oldest vessel in continuous service in the country, with the tiniest licensed bar in California. › humboldtbaymaritimemuseum.com

Boulevard of Big Trees Some of the most magnificent redwoods on the North Coast are also the easiest to see. At Garberville, turn off Highway 101 onto the Avenue of the Giants, a 31-mile stretch of the old highway that weaves like a slalom course between vertiginous, old-growth redwoods. The route takes you through the heart of Humboldt Redwoods State Park, which is sunnier and drier than redwood parks farther north. › avenueofthegiants.net

Victorian Hamlet Gaily painted Victorian mansions line the streets of Ferndale, an idyllic hamlet on the Eel River delta in southern Humboldt County. Lovingly preserved, they give the town a turn-of-the-last-century look that has proven irresistible to Hollywood. More than a dozen movies have been filmed here. Main Street’s shops keep the Victorian theme going, with old-fashioned mercantiles and even a blacksmith shop. Cradled between two redwood forests, the entire town is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. › victorianferndale.com

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California can legally prescribe; and bouts of inspired lunacy such as elaborate sculptures racing across the landscape. For generations, the North Coast was said to be on the far side of the “redwood curtain,” the psychological barrier formed by narrow, tortuous Highway 101, which was little more than a two-lane conduit for heavily-laden logging trucks. But California has spent the last two decades improving the road—straightening curves, widening it in many places to four lanes— and now the road is an easy drive. the-wall restaurants serving fish smoked

City & Town

according to traditional Native American

Transplanted New Englanders founded the

recipes; vineyards close enough to the coast

town of Mendocino on a rocky bluff above

to catch the salt spray; an old Russian trading

the crashing Pacific Ocean, and it still

fort; handsome Victorian villages; possible

sports a whitewashed Cape Cod look. Once

glimpses of the elusive creature known as

a mill town, it went into decay in the 1930s

Bigfoot; wealthy, tie-dyed growers of the

as the local timber trade waned but was

region’s largest cash crop, which doctors in

rediscovered in the 1960s by bohemians

DRIVE

CRESCENT CITY

» TOUR From the GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE, EUREKA

at Bodega Bay (yes, that Bodega Bay: Alfred Hitchcock filmed The TOASTING THE SUNSET at Little River in Mendocino County, top; a drive-thru redwood and classic VW van, above; historic Fort Ross, below.

Birds there), and follow dramatic, winding Highway 1 north past the

HUMBOLDT REDWOODS STATE PARK

AVENUE OF THE GIANTS LEGGETT

old Russian fort, FORT ROSS, and Sea Ranch, GUALALA, MENDOCINO and FORT BRAGG before heading inland to connect with Highway

MENDOCINO

101—“The Redwood Highway”—at

LEGGETT, site of the DRIVE-THRU TREE PARK. Continuing north on the Redwood Highway, you’ll come to HUMBOLDT REDWOODS STATE

GUALALA

FORT ROSS BODEGA BAY

PARK and the AVENUE OF THE GIANTS, EUREKA and the cluster of redwood parks extending almost to the Oregon border.

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SAN FRANCISCO

MENDOCINO COUNTY CVB; REDWOOD COAST; JIRKA MATOUSEK/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR

head over to the SONOMA COAST

and artists. On the shore of Humboldt Bay, Eureka, the largest town on the North

INSIDER’S

» TIP

Coast, has also reversed decades of decline and turned its waterfront Old Town into an inviting Victorian district of galleries, boutiques and cafés. Crescent City was virtually wiped off the map by a tsunami in 1964. Rebuilt now, it sports a smattering of hotels and motels that make it a good base

Part clown, part mime, part acrobat, part juggler, the actors of the DELL’ARTE COMPANY perform in a uniquely physical style. A third of all the clowns in Cirque

for exploring nearby Jedediah Smith Red-

du Soleil shows are graduates of

woods State Park.

this school in the tiny town of Blue Lake. Drop by to catch a

Heritage & Culture

performance or even enroll in the

Native American tribes such as the Yurok

School of Physical Theatre.

and Hoopa lived along the North Coast for

dellarte.com

centuries before the arrival of fur trappers—both Russians working their way down from Alaska and American moun-

Family Fun

tain men such as Jedediah Smith coming

Young children might have trouble fully

overland. For more than two centuries,

appreciating the timelessness of an ancient

resource extraction—primarily logging—

redwood tree, but they’ll enjoy a gondola

was the region’s economic engine. As

ride through the silent forest canopy and a

dwindling forests and stricter environ-

chance to have their picture taken with

mental laws took their tolls starting in the

four-story-high statues of Paul Bunyan and

1970s, the North Coast has transitioned to

Babe the Blue Ox. Look for it at Trees of

tourism as its mainstay.

Mystery, near the town of Klamath.

BOB WICK/VISIT MENDOCINO. OPPOSITE: SISKIYOU COUNTY

THE REDWOOD COAST, below.

SHASTA CASCADE A mystical mountain towers over an outdoor adventure playground

BY JOHN FLINN TOP CITIES Redding, Mount Shasta City, Weaverville, Weed, Chico, Oroville GATEWAY Redding Municipal Airport (RDD) has flights from Los Angeles and San Francisco, and is 9 miles (14 km) from the Redding city center TOURISM WEBSITES visitsiskiyou.org shastacascade.com visitredding.com

hrusting 14,179 feet into the Northern California sky, Mount Shasta is such an imposing presence that it creates its own weather—most notably the eerie-looking lenticular clouds

that form on its summit. Some people see in them a jaunty beret, others a UFO mother ship. It’s no wonder the snow-capped volcano has long held a mysterious attraction for poets, artists, adventurers and New Age mystics. At least two religions have been founded on the flanks of the mountain, which some believe to be a vortex for spiritual activity, and a race of psychically advanced people named the Lemurians is

POPULATION 274,000

rumored to live inside. Mount Shasta is the focal point of one of California’s least-populated regions, a land of high-desert tumbleweeds, majestic rivers and craggy volcanoes. This is where the West Coast’s two major mountain ranges—the Sierra Nevada and the Cascades—run headlong into each other. Just to the south of Shasta, Mount Lassen, the southernmost of the Cascade peaks, erupted less than a century ago, spewing ash as far as 200 miles away. Today, pots of boiling mud and steam vents SHASTA CASCADE

smelling of rotten eggs attest that this volcano is far from dormant. To the west rise the Trinity Alps and Marble Mountains, relatively unvisited gems that are popular venues for fly fishing and horseback

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155

MUST

SEE, DO

MODOC INDIAN in traditional dress, right; Red Bluﬀ Rodeo in Tehama County, below; Mount Shasta from Military Pass Road, previous page.

Vision Quest Embark on a guided, day-long vision quest to the sacred springs, portals and other sites that many believe make Mount Shasta a spiritual energy vortex.

›

shastavortex.com

Crystal Persuasion Experience Mount Shasta City’s metaphysical side by shopping for a Lemurian Seed Crystal at The Crystal Room. But be warned that they won’t let it go home with you unless it’s a “good energy match.”

›

crystalsmtshasta.com

Castle Crags Do some exquisite hiking among the soaring granite battlements of Castle Crags State Park. It’s right off Interstate 5 a few miles south of Mount Shasta.

›

parks.ca.gov/?page_id=454

›

turtlebay.org/sundialbridge

Rolling on a River The Mount Shasta

region is a wonderland for whitewater rafting, with a multitude of rivers offering everything from easy float trips to challenging class 4 whitewater, and trips lasting anywhere from a few hours to a few days.

›

trips. To the north, the Klamath Basin

The Great Outdoors

National Wildlife Refuge, which extends

Mount Shasta is irresistible to climbers;

into southern Oregon, is part of the Pacific

in the spring, summit-seekers are strung

Flyway: In the fall its skies are darkened

out along its most popular routes like

by more than a million migratory birds.

ants on an anthill. To get to the top you need an ice axe, crampons and the skill

City & Town

to use them safely. But on Mount Lassen,

For travelers, Redding was nothing more

its neighbor to the south, a well-graded

than a pit stop along Interstate 5 until

trail runs all the way to the 10,457-foot-

the opening of the instantly iconic Sun-

high summit. World-class fly fishing

dial Bridge across the Sacramento River

abounds in the Trinity Alps, and those

in 2004. On the lower flanks of its name-

willing to walk a short distance with

sake peak, Mount Shasta City sports a

their rods are almost guaranteed a spot

You don’t need to be a skilled

main street lined with New Age book-

to themselves. On the Salmon River,

mountaineer to stand on the

stores and shops selling crystals said to

between the Trinity Alps and Marble

summit of 10,463-foot MOUNT

have mystical powers. No less an

Mountains, Otter Bar Lodge (otterbar.com)

LASSEN. A well-graded trail

authority than James Hilton, author of

is one of the West’s premier whitewater

(summer only) winds past

Lost Horizon, once claimed that the

kayaking schools.

mtshastachamber.com

INSIDER’S

» TIP

steaming, sulfurous fumaroles to the top of the southernmost volcano in the Cascade Range. nps.gov/lavo

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pretty alpine hamlet of Weaverville, gateway to the Trinity Alps, was the

Heritage & Culture

closest he’s ever come to a real-life

The Shasta Tribe of Native Americans, a

Shangri-La.

band of hunters and fishermen who

LORISSA SORIANO; TEHAMA COYNTY. OPPOSITE: SHASTA COUNTY; LASSEN VOLCANIC NATIONAL PARK

Sundial Bridge Stroll across the Sundial Bridge, Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava’s now-iconic cantilever pedestrian span across the Sacramento River, the centerpiece of the worthwhile Turtle Bay Exploration Park in Redding.

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2016 Classic cars, sock hops and ’50s-style burger joints are the big attractions of Redding’s KOOL APRIL NITES. April 16-24 koolaprilnites.com Get a close-up look at Redding’s two celebrity bald eagles, LIBERTY AND SPIRIT, on a free tour of their nesting spots along the Sacramento River. Tours run every second Saturday from October through mid June. facebook.com/FriendsoftheReddingEagles

lived in cedar-plank houses with base-

New Age seekers began filtering into the

ments, once occupied much of what is

area, culminating in 1987’s “Harmonic

now

Convergence,” which identified Shasta

far-northern

California

and

southern Oregon. Their population

as one of the world’s “power centers.”

dropped rapidly as settlers seized land following the discovery of gold in Yreka

Family Fun

and Upper Soda Springs in 1850. To the

The Sundial Bridge is the big draw, but

east, at what is now Lava Beds National

for families, the surrounding Turtle Bay

Monument, the Modoc tribe and the

Exploration Center in Redding offers a

U.S. Army fought the last of the Indian

full day’s worth of activities empha-

wars in California in 1872-73. In the late

sizing the Sacramento River watershed,

1880s, the Central Pacific Railroad

including an aquarium, museum, zoo,

spurred development of the timber and

botanical garden and a recreated logging

tourism industries, and in the 1970s,

camp. turtlebay.org

DRIVE

» TOUR The VOLCANIC LEGACY

SCENIC BYWAY is a 500-mile-long route that winds from LAKE

ALMANOR, south of Mount Lassen, to CRATER

LAKE in southern Oregon, with access to most of the region’s major attractions. volcaniclegacybyway.org

BUMPASS HELL, Lassen Volcanic National Park, top right; Shasta Dam and Lake, left.

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157

HIGH SIERRA The Range of Light is a user-friendly land of superlatives

BY JOHN FLINN TOP CITIES South Lake Tahoe, Truckee, Tahoe City, Bishop, Mammoth Lakes, Oakhurst, Madera INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Reno-Tahoe International Airport (RNO), 3 miles from Reno, Nevada city center

“T

he Range of Light” was John Muir’s pet name for his

beloved Sierra Nevada. It’s not just the ethereal luminosity of the glacially polished granite that drew the

renowned naturalist—and continues to draw people—to the Sierra again and again. It’s the pristine lakes and rivers, the dramatic

POPULATION 600,000

hiking and biking trails, the contrast between the green meadows and stony battlements. The Sierra Nevada may be one of the highest and most majestic mountain ranges in North America, but it’s also one of the most accessible and user-friendly. Stretching 400 miles from north to south, and about 70 from east to west, it’s crossed by seven highways—four of them open all year—and encompasses everything from Lake Tahoe—where you might find yourself crowding shoulder-to-shoulder around a boisterous craps table—to remote canyons in Yosemite or Kings Canyon national parks where you can spend a silent and solitary afternoon watching Muir’s favorite bird, the water ouzel, plunge into waterfalls and cascades. In a state with no shortage of superlatives, the region has more than its share: It can boast the world’s oldest tree, the world’s most

HIGH SIERRA

massive tree, the Old West’s largest ghost town, the nation’s highest waterfall and—until Alaska came along and rewrote the record books—the nation’s highest peak.

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RCPPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: LYNN Y/SHUTTERSTOCK

TOURISM WEBSITES yosemitepark.com visitinglaketahoe.com tahoesouth.com yosemitethisyear.com visitmammoth.com

MUST

» The range is home to three national

SEE, DO

parks, 15 state parks, two national monuments and 20 officially designated wilderness areas. Hikers get itchy feet at the mere mention of its celebrated

walking paths: the John Muir Trail; the Tahoe Rim Trail; the Pacific Crest Trail; the Tahoe-Yosemite Trail. At the drop of winter’s first snowflake, skiers begin making plans for the three premier ski resorts on America’s West Coast: Squaw Valley

(site

the

1960

Geographically speaking, the moun-

Winter

tain range is pretty much one big chunk

Olympics), Heavenly and Mammoth

of granite tilted like a badly placed brick

Mountain. Streams rushing down the

in a cobblestone street: It’s gently

range’s sheer east slope into the Owens

sloped on the west side and quite steep

Valley are renowned for their fly fishing.

on the east, lower in the north and

DRIVE

» TOUR

Long Live Mono Lake Set in a brooding, volcanic, Tolkienesque landscape, Mono Lake is one of the most otherworldly sights in California, with spiky tufa towers rising out of an alkaline lake. Explore it by kayak or canoe, or take a guided naturalist walk along the shoreline. › monolake.org › calderakayak.com

The Big Picture It’s nearly impossible to take a boring picture in Yosemite Valley, but to elevate your camera work to the next level, sign up for a guided photography walk. They range from free beginners classes to inexpensive four-hour courses offered through the Ansel Adams Galley. › nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/art.htm › yosemitepark.com/ansel-adams-photographyclasses.aspx

California’s Everest You don’t have to be Sir Edmund Hillary or Tenzing Norgay to plant your flag on the 14,495-foot summit of Mount Whitney, the tallest mountain in the Lower 48. The pathway to the top begins west of the town of Lone Pine and gains an ear-popping 6,100 feet in 11 miles. › mount-whitney.com

Highway 120 is a magical mystery tour through the heart of Yosemite National Park’s exquisite high country. From the handsome old mining town of GROVELAND, follow 120 east into the park (HETCH HETCHY, the fraternal twin of Yosemite Valley that was dammed to provide San Francisco’s water supply, is a short side trip) past the TUOLUMNE GROVE of giant sequoias and up into the rarified alpine world. Pull over at OLMSTEAD

Biggest Tree Tree-huggers, don’t bother trying to wrap your arms around the General Sherman Tree in Sequoia National Park. With a circumference of 102 feet, the giant sequoia is the largest known tree on the planet. While not quite as tall as its coastal cousins, its staggering girth more than makes up for it. › nps.gov/seki/naturescience/sherman.htm

The Wild, Wild West Bodie, possibly the Old West’s most notorious mining town, now exists in a state of “arrested decay” on a high, windswept plain northeast of Yosemite. It’s one of America’s most extensive ghost towns. › parks.ca.gov/?page_id=509

POINT to view HALF DOME from an angle you’ve never seen before. You’ll traverse TUOLUMNE MEADOWS, the jumping-off point for some of Yosemite’s finest hiking trails, and cross 9,943-foot TIOGA PASS before descending three-quarters of a vertical mile to shimmering MONO LAKE.

KAYAKING on crystalline Lake Tahoe, top; hiking in Yosemite National Park with Half Dome, opposite.

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161

watch the progress of climbers inching

bars, some adorned with portraits of gun-

their way up the impossibly sheer granite

slingers and desperadoes. Farther south,

walls. Tempted to try it? Sign up for an

sprawling Bishop sports the Owens Valley’s

introductory class at the Yosemite Moun-

most extensive collection of lodging,

taineering School—or at least treat

dining and resupply outlets.

yourself to a “Go Climb a Rock” T-shirt. With some of the most reliably sunny

The Great Outdoors

summer weather of any major mountain

Just a few hours’ drive from San Francisco

range, the High Sierra is a hiker’s paradise,

or Los Angeles, the Sierra Nevada has been

from easy day walks in the Desolation

higher in the south. Keep that in mind

California’s outdoor playground almost

Wilderness to challenging, multi-week

when choosing a hiking trail: for an easier

since the arrival of the original 49ers. In

journeys through Kings Canyon and

amble, look to the north and west; for a

Yosemite Valley, spectators with telescopes

Sequoia national parks. Skiers have their

challenging ascent, head south and east.

City & Town Now connected by gondola to the Heav-

SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2016

enly ski resort, the bustling town of South Lake Tahoe, located on the lakeshore and

Celebrate with some of America’s top chefs for evenings full of cooking demonstrations, meet-

the Nevada border, has seen an injection of

and-greets and, of course, sumptuous dinners at Yosemite CHEF’S HOLIDAYS, held in the

energy and interest in recent years, with new restaurants, shops and galleries. With

landmark Ahwahnee Hotel. Runs most evenings from Jan. 10 through Feb. 4 yosemitepark.com/chefs-holidays

a large inventory of hotel rooms and a

“LIGHTS ON THE LAKE,” held each Fourth of July at South Lake Tahoe, is the largest

cluster of hotel-casinos just a few steps

synchronized fireworks show west of the Mississippi. July 4 tahoesouth.com

over the border, it’s a good bet for inexpensive lodging. In Truckee, a handsome old

With past participants such as Michael Jordan, Charles Barkley and John Elway, South Lake

railroad and lumber town between Donner

Tahoe’s AMERICAN CENTURY GOLF CHAMPIONSHIP has been called the “Super Bowl

Pass and Squaw Valley, a collection of Old

of Celebrity Sports.” July 19-24 tahoecelebritygolf.com

West historic buildings along Commercial

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T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

KENNY KARST/DNC PARKS & RESORTS AT YOSEMITE, INC.; KAVRAM/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: KENNY KARST/DNC PARKS & RESORTS AT YOSEMITE, INC.

Row now houses busy restaurants and

choice of world-class venues, from

Sierra. One of the best places to see one is the

beginner-friendly Granlibakken to the

Great Sierra Mine, a short but steep hike

double-diamond chutes of Squaw Valley

from Tioga Pass in Yosemite. You’ll find the

and Heavenly. In summer, many of the

remains of old miners’ cabins, but exercise

resorts—particularly Northstar and Mam-

care around the shafts, several of which

moth—convert their lifts and gondolas to

remain open and unfenced.

INSIDER’S

» TIP

The hardest part of hiking to the top of YOSEMITE’S HALF

DOME might not be the mile of

carry mountain bikes.

Family Fun

elevation gain or the vertiginous

Heritage & Culture

If the kids aren’t yet ready for full-on

metal cables covering the last

Native Americans, pioneer emigrants and

camping, Lake Tahoe has two old-timey

400 feet: It’s scoring the coveted,

gold miners all left their marks on the High

resorts with knotty-pine cabins scattered

mandatory permit. They’re

Sierra—often literally. At Grinding Rock

in the trees near the lakeshore, bike and

issued via a daily online lottery

State Historic Park near the town of Twain

paddleboat rentals and ice cream parlors.

beginning March 1 and ending

Harte, Miwok Indians once ground acorns

Camp Richardson is on the west shore,

March 31.

on an outcrop of marbleized limestone. The

near Tahoe City; Zephyr Cove is on the

1,185 mortar holes they left behind consti-

south shore, just over the border in Nevada.

tute the largest such collection in North

camprichardson.com zephyrcove.com

nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/ hdpermits

America. In the Hope Valley, just south of Lake Tahoe, you can still see ruts in the rocks left by the covered wagons of settlers on the Emigrant Trail. The shafts of thousands of abandoned mines pockmark the High

FAMILY IN THE MARIPOSA GROVE of giant sequoias, Yosemite, opposite left; sunset on Mono Lake, opposite top; chef demo at Yosemite Food and Wine Events, below; cross-country skiing in the high country, right; Bracebridge Dinner at Yosemite, bottom right.

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163

LAKE TAHOE SOUTH SHORE Indoor and outdoor playground

BY BILL FINK

HIKE, PLAY,

» EAT, DANCE! Visitor Information tahoesouth.com skiheavenly.com tahoecelebritygolf.com fs.usda.gov/ltbmu kirkwood.com sierraattahoe.com thelandingtahoe.com basecamphotels.com hardrockcasinolaketahoe.com

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FROM SERENE VIEWS over mirror-flat

South Lake makeover, the choices are

morning waters of Lake Tahoe and the

greater than ever.

gentle footfall of hikers on pine needlecovered forest paths, to the jangle of slot

Summer

machines and the pumping bass of a

Summer activity around the South Shore

casino dance club, Lake Tahoe South Shore

is understandably focused on the beautiful

(what the marketers call Tahoe South) is a

waters of spectacular Lake Tahoe. Beaches

destination hosting a unique mix of

are packed with summer revelers, while

wilderness and wild-ness, an indoor and

the waters are filled with every type of

outdoor playground with equal measures

floating vessel imaginable—from kayaks

of altitude and attitude. Visitors can follow

and stand-up paddle boards to small sail-

their desires to find peace and solitude on

boats, fishing cruisers, water-ski boats,

back country hikes or ski runs, or dive into

luxury cruising vessels and even two mas-

a swirling social scene at a packed summer

sive paddleboats, the Tahoe Queen and Ms.

beach, holler at a crowded craps table or

Dixie II that run daily Emerald Bay cruises.

slurp microbrews at an après ski bar com-

For fun out of the water, the South

plete with go-go dancers. It’s dealer’s

Shore is a hiker’s paradise with journeys

choice on the South Shore. And with new

ranging from multi-day treks into the Des-

hotel, restaurant and retail spaces contin-

olation Wilderness and a steep day’s climb

uing to open this year as part of a full

up to the awe-inspiring views of Mt. Tallac,

JAMIE KINGHAM/LAKE TAHOE VISITORS AUTHORITY; BEN FISH/LAKE TAHOE VISITORS AUTHORITY. OPPOSITE: JEFF DOW/CAMP RICHARDSON RESORT

SLEIGH RIDE fun, right; biking at Corral Loop, below; kayaking on the lake, opposite.

to relaxed family strolls in flat meadows at

popular mountain celebrating its 60th

performers ranging from Elton John to

Camp Richardson and around the Tallac

anniversary. It spans two states, with con-

Kenny Chesney and Aerosmith, while the

Historic Site or just lazing at the beach.

trasting views of the blue Tahoe waters

Hard Rock Hotel has hosted both heavy

Cyclists can take advantage of a network of

and the high-prairie Nevada countryside.

metal and bluegrass shows. Packed bars

road rides and mountain paths with every-

The Heavenly Gondola drops visitors right

and clubs give this indoor playground a

thing from a scenic roll in the woods to

into the action in the center of the city.

Vegas feel, albeit at 6200 feet above sea

treacherous,

mountain

Heavenly’s Tamarack Lodge has an après

level. Outside the casinos, the main strip

descents. The ambitious can even bike the

ski scene with pumping music, multiple

of town boasts shopping opportunities

entire 72-mile circumference of Lake

bars and go-go dancers gyrating to keep

with continued new openings in the

Tahoe, while the cautious can pedal

themselves (and the viewers) warm. Kirk-

“Chateau at the Village” retail area, name-

recently opened bike paths close to town.

wood, about a 45-minute drive from town,

brand boutiques as well as quirky local

Golfers can check out the lakeside Edge-

is known for its off-piste terrain, deep

ski shops and crafts stores. Dining can be

wood Tahoe Golf Course (home of the

snow and relaxed vibe. Sierra-at-Tahoe is

anything from sushi to pizza and

popular American Century celebrity golf

a medium-sized family-oriented ski resort

gourmet cuisine—offered at casual local

tournament in July) and several other

featuring a new base plaza, located on

diners (like the newly opened California

nearby courses.

Highway 50 between South Lake Tahoe

Burger Company)—to luxury lakeside

and Sacramento.

restaurants. When you finally decide to

teeth-rattling

Heavenly Mountain Resort’s on-moun-

take a rest, South Lake Tahoe offers a vast

tain Epic Discovery adventure center includes new zip lines, an educational forest

24/7/365

array of lodging options, including

canopy tour and a kids ropes course, as well

When the day of outdoor activity is done,

recently launched boutique hotels like

as a network of hiking trails branching off

the second shift of fun is just beginning

the outdoorsy-themed Basecamp Hotel

from their gondola (which is worth a sight-

around South Lake Tahoe. High-rise

and the waterfront five-star resort of The

seeing ride even if you never step off it).

casinos rock with the sounds and energy

Landing and the newly opened Hard Rock

Hotel & Casino.

non-stop

gambling.

Gamers

get

Winter

recharged in an array of restaurants and

Regardless of your choice of food,

Lake Tahoe South Shore boasts three top-

buffets, as well as at comedy shows and

activity or season, Lake Tahoe South Shore

notch ski resorts: Heavenly, Kirkwood and

live music events like Harveys Summer

is a spot to satisfy any sort of appetite—

Sierra-at-Tahoe. Heavenly is a huge and

Concert Series, whose 2015 events featured

you’ll only be hungry for another trip.

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165

GOLD COUNTRY A Mother Lode of attractions in the Sierra Foothills

BY JOHN FLINN TOP CITIES Sacramento, Sonora, Placerville, Auburn, Downieville, Sutter Creek, Nevada City, Jackson, Columbia, Murphys, Jamestown, Angels Camp INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Sacramento International Airport (SMF), 13 miles (21 km) from the city center TOURISM WEBSITES discovergold.org visit-eldorado.com visitsacramento.com

t was a flash in the pan that changed the history of California, and of the world. The sparkling gold nugget that caught the eye of James W. Marshall as he tended a

sawmill in the Sierra Nevada foothills in January 1848 set off a gold rush that drew more than 300,000 would-be prospectors the following year from the eastern U.S., South America, Europe, even China. They were known as the 49ers. Overnight, the Gold Rush transformed San Francisco from a sleepy port to a rollicking city and persuaded Con-

POPULATION 650,000

gress to put California—wrested from Mexico by war just two years earlier—on the fast track to statehood. Most of the gold was found in a 300-mile belt that extended through the Sierra foothills, from Downieville in the north to Coarsegold in the south. Miners called it the “Mother Lode.” In a state working tirelessly to invent the future, the Gold Country remains the most visible manifestation of its notso-distant past, with towns sporting wood-plank sidewalks, swinging saloon doors, hitching posts and red-brick buildGOLD COUNTRY

ings. (You’ll quickly discover that the best preserved of these belonged to Wells Fargo and, oddly, the Independent Order of Odd Fellows.)

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SPECIAL

» EVENTS 2016

MUST

Nearly three dozen El Dorado County wineries participate in TALES FROM THE CELLAR, a blend of wine-tasting, live music, food and literary-themed events. April 9-10 and 16-17 passporteldorado.com Wager on a jumping frog as Mark Twain’s most beloved story is commemorated each year at the CALAVERAS COUNTY FAIR & JUMPING FROG JUBILEE in Angels Camp. May 19-22 frogtown.org The HANGTOWN HARMONICA CHAMPIONSHIP is the highlight of the Cowboys and Cornbread festival celebrating western living at the El Dorado County Fairgrounds. July 16 cowboysandcornbread.com

SEE, DO

All Aboard Rail buffs will want to lay tracks for the California State Railroad Museum, one of the best of its kind in the nation. It’s located in Old Sacramento, which preserves a district of the state capital pretty much as it looked in Gold Rush days. › csrmf.org

» TOWER BRIDGE in Sacramento, opposite; Calaveras Big Trees Association carriage ride at Winter Wonderland, below; a historic building in Old Sacramento, bottom right.

Mother Lode Underground Scratch beneath the surface for a tour of limestone caverns sporting dogtooth spar crystals and head-banging stalactites at Mercer Caverns. › mercercaverns.com

ALAN BEYMER/GOLD COUNTRY VISITOR’S ASSOCIATION; MILOSK50/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: PHOTO.UA/SHUTTERSTOCK

Bottoms Up Sample rich, jammy Zinfandels and other wines without the crowds at dozens of wineries in California’s up-and-coming wine region—Amador, El Dorado and Calaveras counties. › discovercaliforniawines.com/discovercalifornia/sierra-foothills

There’s an Apple for That Allow the aroma of freshly baked apple pies, fritters, turnovers and strudel to lure you off Highway 50 east of Placerville to a place called Apple Hill. More than 50 growers participate in a celebration of the apple harvest—and of autumn itself—with cider, hayrides, pumpkin patches, hay mazes and other family fun. It runs from Labor Day to Christmas. › applehill.com

“Gem of the Southern Mines” Step back into the 1850s with a visit to Columbia State Historic Park, a functioning town preserved as it was in the Gold Rush era. › parks.ca.gov/?page_id=552

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Today you can still pan for gold—it’s

point for exploring the Gold Country.

often said there’s more left in the ground

Since the arrival of the 49ers, the small

than the original 49ers ever took out—but

towns of the Gold Country proper have

you can also raft some of California’s froth-

morphed through several distinct stages,

Inspect the signatures of everyone

iest rivers, explore caverns and sample

from rough-and-tumble boomtowns, to

from Mark Twain to Ulysses S.

Chardonnay and Syrah in a number of

somnolent hamlets, to destinations for

Grant to Charles Bolles (better

uncrowded, up-and-coming wineries.

biker rallies, to, finally, genteel venues for

INSIDER’S

» TIP

known as Black Bart) in the register of the historic MURPHYS

HOTEL, one of the oldest continually operating hotels in California. murphyshotel.com

weekend getaways sporting comfortable

City & Town

B&Bs, sophisticated restaurants, antique

Sacramento was the terminus of the

stores and nearby wineries. Among the

Transcontinental Railroad—from there,