Textil Funzine No. 12

www.textilue.rs

Ilustracija: Hello this is Kae

No. 12 // jesen 2015. // Besplatan primerak

_ Spring Summer 2016

Intro

Textil Design Studio

Floral KEPER STREČ SATEN PRT- DSN #MAYROSE # BEIGE

KOŠULJAR S MUSLIN HM- DSN # ROSES BLACK

VISKOZA LIKRA PRT- DSN # FLOWER # GREEN

Kako je lepo i inspirativno pisati uvodnik na temu leta u dubokoj jeseni!

Elem, prebacimo se u toplije krajeve i sanjajmo! Uz novi romantizam, boho stil, čipke, rese, višeslojnu prozirnu i laganu garderobu, gde se naziru obrisi i mirisi mora, hladne limunade, kristalno plavog neba…

U fokusu su tri glavne kolorističke grupe: neutrali i pastel kao jedna, jarke i intenzivne boje kao druga, i prefinjena, elegantna letnje crna kroz motive, mreže, čipke i transparentne tkanine. Bojama i materijalima se bavimo više na stranicama koje slede.

A sada kratki osvrt na svetsku scenu.

Pistama Njujorka, Londona, Milana i Pariza su prošetale Marije Antoanete (Raf Simons za Dior) i viktorijanske forme (Lagerfeld za Fendi, Erdem), nasuprot afričkim motivima (Valentino, Rochas) i gruzijskom folkloru (Antonio Marras). Keith Haring i ove sezone kroz printove kolekcije J.W. Andersona i balet kao inspiracija u kolekciji Roksande Ilinčić u Londonu. Ovo su samo neka zapažanja i kreatori sa svetskih pista koji će uticati u manjoj ili većoj meri na naredne sezone.

Multikulturalnost, multidisciplinarnost, prožimanje epoha i stilova je izraženo i u Textilovim kolekcijama za narednu sezonu. Slobodno možemo reći da imamo ponudu direktno sa modnih pista!

Top tri obeležja sezone SS16 koja ističu analitičari, i koja beleže porast iz godine u godinu su: haljine, pantalone širokih nogavica (wide-leg) i pruge i cveće kao motivi u dezenima. Tako da, dragi moji, bez ovih elemenata i naših materijala ne možete imati pre svega komercijalnu i trend kolekciju.

I, naravno, strast, ljubav prema poslu, posvećenost, uživanje… I u dobru i u zlu;-).

Ovim povodom vam preporučujem da obavezno pogledate dokumentarni film “Dior et moi”, priču o ljubavi, strasti, inspiraciji, kratkim rokovima, zahtevnim zadacima, priču o dolasku Raf Simonsa na čelo kuće Dior posle skandala sa Gallianom i o stvaranju bajke za samo 8 nedelja.

Obećala sam leto u jeseni, a šta nas može bolje zagrejati od pronalaženja motiva i inspiracije?

Uživajte i posetite Textil jer smo tu za vas! / Jelena Pavlović creative director

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Summer sequins ŠLJOKICE GLAM DSN # 0218 # NAVY

ŠLJOKICE S BLACK DIAMOND DSN # 02986 # 1 BLACK

ŠLJOKICE S INVERSE DSN # ROYAL BLUE

Maritime ČIPKA S PRT CADEAU # STRIPE # NAVY

PONTE ROMA PRT STRIPE # RED 4

TEKSAS 100% PRT DSN # SAILOR

Instagram.

TextilUzice

Spring trends

Textil Design Studio

Summer Skins -

KOŽA S 1611 # 1 MOONBEAM

KOŽA S 1611 # 1307 CAMEO ROSE

KOŽA S 1611 # 2007 PASTEL YELLOW

Lace ČIP S CADEAU PRT - DSN # 1856 # FLOWERS

ČIP S LACE CAROLINA DSN # 0056 # HIGH FASION RED

ČIP S LACE LEA #1761 LEMON MERINIQUE

Bold Stripes KEPER LIKRA PRT STRIPE # MIDDLE # CORAL

KOŠULJAR S MUSLIM RITA PRT DSN # ZIK ZAK # PINK

POLY KNIT PABLO RELIEF PRT STRIPE 15 # HOT PINK

Instagram.

TextilUzice

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Spring colors

Textil Design Studio

Blue Forever KOŠULJAR S SATEN GLOW # 1981 BLUE GROTTO

ŠTOF CREPE SPAN #1104 ANGEL BLUE

ŠTOF VIS PRADA #650 BABY BLUE 2

Back to Black KOŽA S 1611 PUNCH DSN # 6 # BLACK

POLY KNIT LACE STRIPE F #BLACK

SCUBA 3D DSN # 0527 # BLACK

Blushed Neutrals CIP S PRT CADEAU DSN # 2249 # FLOWERS

KOŠULJAR S SATIN GLOW #1420 BIRCH

ŠTOF V CREP SPAN # 1307 CAMEO ROSE

Bright&Loud KOŠULJAR VIS MORROCO VOILE #1130 SURF THE WEB

SCUBA 3D DSN #522 #2100 BRIGHT CORAL N

ŠTOF V CREP SPAN # 992 LIME LIGHT

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Fenomeni - Da li ste znali? Pre samo 20 godina Lancôme je otkazao saradnju sa zanosnom Isabellom Rosellini nekoliko dana posle njenog četrdesetog rođendana jer je bila isuviše stara. Danas u L’Oreal reklamama gledamo Dame Helen Mirren u svojoj šezdeset devetoj godini.

Previše stari za?

Milica Ivić & WGSN

Ne očekujte da dremaju posle ručka, pletu džempere i mirišu na naftalin. Oni ne idu u penziju, nego počinju nove karijere.

Postaju DJevi, programeri, zvezde društvenih mreža. Oni luduju na žurkama i muzičkim festivalima, podržavaju legalizaciju marihuane i obavezno vode dečka ili devojku.

Oni imaju više od sedamdeset godina. Bili su mladi i divlji šezdesetih godina prošlog veka, šta će ih sprečiti da i sada očuvaju tradiciju svoje generacije?

panje više nisu nova marketinška taktika. Barbour i Ralph Lauren su samo neki od brendova koji već neko vreme praktikuju ovu strategiju. Joan Didion za Céline, Joni Mitchell (71) za Saint Laurent, Jessica Lange (65) za Marc Jacobs Beauty, Charlotte Rampling (69) za Nars, Catherine Deneuve (71) za Louis Vuitton, i Anjelica Huston (63) za Gap svedoče o dominaciji ovog trenda. Kelly Osborne, Nicole Richie i Kylie Jenner podržavaju stavove da je starost veoma in i farbaju svoju kosu u sedu boju.

Oni imaju sve veći uticaj na modu.

Najočigledniji primer je Helen Van Winkle, poznata kao Baddie Winkle, koja sa 86 godina ima million i po pratilaca na Instagramu i ugovor sa brendom Dimepiece iz Los Anđelesa.

Poslednjih godina, modne kampanje povezuju lepotu sa starenjem, ne sa mladošću, što je promena koju su pozdravili i kupci. Multi-generacijske kam-

Pre samo dva veka, šezdesetogodišnjak bi bila vrlo stara osoba.

Danas se pripadnost sedmoj deceniji smatra srednjim godinama. Po proceni stručnjaka starost sada počinje u sedamdeset četvrtoj godini, dok “srednje godine” traju devet godina duže nego po merilima prošlog veka.

Promena dolazi usled promene percepcije: starost se ne meri go-

dinama nego preostalim vremenom za život, naročito kada savremena tehnologija produžava životni vek. Ako dodamo posvećenost zdravom životu i vežbanju, aktivan odnos prema putovanjima, uticaj na modu i društvene mreže, na zrele demografske slojeve mora sve više da se računa. Sve je više obrazovnih programa za starije od 55 godina, za one koji žele da se oprobaju u nekoj novoj karijeri posle završene karijere. Kursevi umetnosti, dizajna i kuvanja za starije su obrazovni trend u apsolutnom porastu u SAD. Nasuprot botoksu i idealima savršenstva, prirodno starenje i osećanje udobnosti u sopstvenoj koži otvaraju nove tržišne mogućnosti.

Potpuno uživanje u aktivnom životu, apsolutno vladanje svojim telom, nadmoćno gospodarenje elegancijom… Večna mladost je totalno pasé! / English on page 8

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Textil Young Designer Award

Tamara Jarić

Milica Ivić

Dizajnerka koja se školovala u Firenci i nekoliko godina živela i radila u Njujorku i San Francisku, pa igrom slučajnosti nastavila svoj rad u Beogradu, ne prestaje da izaziva veliko interesovanje. Zanimljivo je da je upravo na Nedelji mode prvi put pokazala svoje kreacije domaćoj publici i izazvala veoma pozitivne reakcije.

Mlada modna dizajnerka Tamara Jarić je definitivno obeležila prolećnu Beogradsku nedelju mode. Pored nagrade za poseban doprinos razvoju kvalitetnog modnog stvaralaštva, pripala joj je i nagrada Textil Young Designer Award, koja se već tradicionalno dodeljuje u okviru ove modne manifestacije. U skladu sa misijom pružanja podrške mladim dizajnerima u cilju razvoja modne scene u Srbiji, kompanija Textil pažljivo prepoznaje nove i upečatljive pojave.

Koliko jednostavnost i elegancija, koje se najčešće navode kao osnove vašeg autorskog pečata, zavise od materijala?

Svakako je lakše napraviti elegantan komad kada imate fino obrađen materijal. Danas se izbor u tekstilnoj industriji dosta proširio tako da možete naći materijale mnogobrojnih kvaliteta.

To znatno olakšava posao dizajneru.

Trudim se da koristim kvalitetne materijale za moju liniju. Ne koristim materijale koji se gužvaju i često biram čvršću strukturu zbog vizuelnog efekta.

Ljubitelj sam fino obrađene vune, kašmira, hladne italijanske vune, kože raznih tekstura, svile i viskoze.

Takođe, materijal u odevnom predmetu je od fundamentalnog značaja zato što je u direktnom kontaktu sa telom. To utiče na to kako se osoba oseća. Zbog toga uvek nastojim da su materijali prijatni pri dodiru.

Da li možete da navedete neko lično iskustvo sa materijalom, neki “bliski susret” koji je možda predodredio kreaciju? Ili izbor materijala uvek dolazi posle završene ideje?

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Inspiracija i materijal su usko povezani. Kod mene se česće prvo rodi ideja kojoj je podređen sam materijal. Obožavam materijale i mogu ceo dan da provedem u biranju i gledanju. Imam afinitete ka finoj obradi, luksuznoj vuni, geometrijskim teksturama i materijalalima sa posebnim efektom.

Koliko su vam važne teksture, taktilni odnos prema odevnom predmetu?

Tekstura je bitna zbog izgleda a i dodira. Često se igram sa kontrastima - npr. kombinujem mat i čvrst materijal sa sjajnom i laganom svilom.

Svaki materijal ima svoj karakter i kombinovanjem razlicitih možete dosta reći. Mnogo kreacija se može roditi samo ako ste inspirisani kontrastima u tekstilu.

Iz vašeg bogatog iskustva rada na različitim modnim tržištima i sa različitim autorima, da li možete da kažete da li postoji razlika u odnosima prema materijalu u Evropi i Americi?

Mislim da nema krucijalne razlike u odnosima prema materijalu u Evropi i Americi. Jedino što bih mogla da izdvojim je da su mnogi američki brendovi komercijalni. Samim tim gledaju da i materijali budu praktični, lakši za održavanje i u poslednje vreme “eco friendly”. Najluksuzniji kreatori se nalaze u Evropi, te su i samim tim, materijali koje koriste boljeg kvaliteta i ekskluzivniji.

Postoji celokupni paralelni svet tekstila, posebni sajmovi, stalni tehnološki napredak... Koliko modna industrija zavisi od tog sveta?

Budućnost mode direktno ovisi od tekstilne industrije, tačnije, od inovacije materijala. Rado posećujem svetske sajmove tekstila i to je uzbudljiv deo posla.

Koliko su vam važni trendovi kada su materijali u pitanju?

Smatram da su trendovi u materijalima usko povezani sa trendovima u modi te su mi od velike važnosti. Teško je biti inovativan u modi jer je dosta ideja već realizovano. Jedini prostor za dalji razvitak u modnom dizajnu je u materijalu i tehnologiji.

U stvaranju novog života u Beogradu od kada ste se vratili, kako ste pronalazili partnere za posao? Kakvo je iskustvo saradnje sa kompanijom Textil?

Sve se brzo, spontano i uspešno razvijalo nakon mog prvog prezentovanja na Beogradskoj nedelji mode 2013. godine. S tim mojim prvim nastupom, ušla sam u kontakt sa ljudima iz domaće modne scene i ubrzo sam upoznala ključne ljude.

Saradnja sa kompanijom Textil Užice je uspešno prošla i mogu otvoreno reći da su svetskom nivou što se tiče profesionalnosti i organizovanja. Drago mi je da imamo takvu firmu u zemlji. / English on page 8

BFW na LFW

Milica Ivić

oblikuje u jedno. Teksture su jedan novi segment koji se može primetiti u kolekciji koja je prikazana u Londonu, iako možda one nisu primetne na prvi pogled. Teksture su vrlo rafinirane, na dobroj granici hi tech-a i sport wear-a , ali možda i najvažnije, u potpunosti oslikavaju aktuelni trend.

Da li više volite kontrastne ili balansirane spojeve materijala?

Moj izbor materijala je uvek kompitabilan, a boje su te koje volim da suprotstavljam u snažne kontaste, a vrlo često u kolor blokingu.

Koliko je iskustvo rada u domaćim modnim kućama specificno kada je u pitanju odnos prema materijalima?

Rad u industriji me je naučio da materijale sagledavam iz potpuno druge percepcije. Da gledam apsolutno sve, od sirovinskog sastava, kolor karte, gramaže, skupljanja i svih ostalih tehničkih karakteristika. Pored toga uvek sam morao da razmišljam o isplativosti materijala, njegovoj široj upotrebi u kolekciji kao i o tome da li je u skladu sa trendovima za određenu sezonu i da li je u duhu brenda za koji radim. Sve su to bitni aspekti koji posle mogu u velikoj meri uticati na sam dizajn modela ali i na prodaju.

Fashion Scout Tokom London Fashion Week-a, u okviru programa Fashion Scout, 22.9.2015. održan je Belgrade Fashion Week Showcase!

Zvanično prva revija Belgrade Fashion Week-a tokom trajanja London Fashion Week-a prikazala je radove pet dizajnera koje je internacionalni žiri izabrao nakon konkursne revije kao najbolje predstavnike domaćeg modnog dizajna. Ana Ljubinković, Budislava Keković, Ivana Pilja, George Styler i Vlada Savić ispunili su najvažniji cilj ovog projekta i na pravi način predstavili kreativnost i potencijal srpskog modnog dizajna. Revija je održana u Freemasons’ Hall, jednoj od najznačajnijih londonskih građevina poznatoj po svom Art Deco stilu koja se nalazi u srcu Covent Garden-a. Pohvale koje stižu od strane internacionalnih modnih stručnjaka i uopšte modne javnosti su još jedna potvrda kvalitetnog rada i svakako će biti dodatni vetar u leđa ne samo dizajnerima koji su ovoga puta predstavili svoje kolekcije u Londonu nego i celokupnoj modnoj sceni u Srbiiji. Ponovo je dokazano da je kreativnost jedno od najjačih oružija za poboljšanje imidža naše zemlje i da svetski prepoznat potencijal koji u ovom slučaju srpski modni dizajn nosi sa sobom treba dodatno podržati i iskoristiti na pravi način.

Najnovije kolekcije pomenutih dizajnera, koje su pobrali niz pohvala svetske modne javnosti, domaća publika imaće prilike da vidi tokom narednog beogradskog Black ‘n’ Easy Fashion Week-a koji će biti održan u periodu od 2. do 10. novembra 2015. godine.

Vlada Savić Primetila ga je cela lokalna modna scena.

Primetili su ga britanski Vogue, kao i Glamour Magazine. Na njihovim sajtovima našli su se foto-izveštaji sa njegove revije u okviru London Fasion Weeka, u odeljku za Spring Summer 2016 ready to wear. On je Vlada Savić i za Textil Fanzin govori o onome što nas najviše zanima i večno uzbuđuje. O materijalima!

Koliko materijali doprinose svedenosti i nosivosti vaših kreacija?

Mnogo, jer je sam izbor materijala zapravo deo dizajna, deo modnog rukopisa i estetike.

U tom izboru može da se vidi osećaj za trend ali i da se oseti senzibilitet dizajnera. Moja vizija mode uvek ide u smeru svedenog i nosivog ali sa jasnim autorskim pečatom, pa se trudim da i izbor materijala ide u tom pravcu.

Da li ih birate po konstrukcionim mogućnostima ili po nekom drugom principu?

Belgrade Fashion Week Showcase on Instagram.

Biranje tkanina za kolekciju kod mene budi ogromno uzbuđenje jer je to zapravo prvi korak u materijlalizaciji same kolekcije.

Uvek dolazim sa radnim skicama i sa nekom početnom vizijom ali susret sa materijalima donosi sasvim novu vrstu inspiracije i zapravo tek tu počinje pravi kreativni proces u razvoju kolekcije. Moj prvi kontakt sa tkaninom pored vizuelnog je uvek dodir. Pokušavam da što bolje osetim materijal, da opipam njegovu strukturu da sagledam tkanje, pa često pokušavam i da predvidim njegov sastav.

Jako mi je važno da materijali prate moju estetiku, da osetim kako se ponaša, kako pada i kakvu formu može da mi pruži. Ali od svega najbitnija je ta vizuelizacija materijala u model, to je onaj osećaj i deo talenta koji zapravo razlikuju dizajnere.

Kada ste govorili o poslednjoj, veoma zapaženoj, kolekciji objašnjavali ste je po principu boja i formi. A teksture?

Generalno ti elementi moraju da budu trio, a estetika i likovnost je ta koja treba da ih

Kada kažete da pratite blogove i sajtove o modi i dizajnu, da li postoje takvi sajtovi koji se odnose samo na materijale?

WGSN (Worth Global Style Network) je sajt koji je namenjen profesionalnim dizajnerima i užem krugu profesija koje su vezane za svet mode. To je svojevrsni informativni modni servis koji, nažalost, nije dostupan svima. Na njemu se nalaze trendovi za nekoliko sezona unapred, kao i inspiracije, moodboard-ovi, palete boje, materijali, ali i teme koje se odnose i na ostale sektore u modi od marketinga pa do same prodaje.

Ali dva najveća segmenta na sajtu se zapravo odnose na trendove i tekstil. Poznajući i radeći za neke domaće brendove u prilici sam da posećujem ovaj svojevrsni modni rudnik informacija.

U svojim kreacijama koristite i Textil materijale. Šta vas je njima privuklo?

Textil mi je pre svega pružio veliku mogućnost izbora, a to je za mene kao dizajnera jako važno jer mi to daje dodatnu inspiraciju i slobodu pri kreiranju, a ima li nešto važnije od kreativne slobode? Mali izbor daje i male mogućnosti, ali to u Textilu prosto nije moguće i zato je on moj izbor.

Pored toga, kroz tako veliki asortiman uvek mogu da prepoznam najnovije trendove u tekstilu, a kroz njih zapravo vidim i boje koje će biti aktuelne kao i printove. Sve je zapravo tu, na jednom mestu, samo treba znati i umeti prepoznati. / English on page 8

Photos: Instagram (Ana Ljubinković, Budislava Keković, Ivana Pilja)

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Intro

Vlada Savić

How wonderful and inspirational it is to write about summer in deep fall! Let’s move to warmer climats and dream! With new romanticism, boho style, lace, fringes, multileyer, see through and light wardrobe which give away the shapes and smells of the sea, cold limonade, crystal blue skies….

We have three main colour groups in focus: neutral pastels, strong intensive colours, and sofisticated elegant summer black in motifs, nets, lace and see through fabric. More on colours and fabrics on pages to come.

A short mention of the world scene events: Maries Antoinettes running over catwalks in London, NewYork, Milano and Paris (Raf Simons for Dior), Victorian forms (Lagerfeld for Fendi, Erdem) contrsted to African motifs (Valentino, Rochas) and Georgian folklore (Antonio Marras).

Keith Haring again this season through the prints in J.W. Anderson’s collection, ballet as inspiration in Roksanda Ilinčić’s colllection in London. These are only some of the details that will more or less affect the seasons to come.

Multiculturality, multidisciplinarity, era intersections and style combinations are visible in Textil’s collections for the coming season, as well. We can freely say that our offer comes directly from the world’s catwalks.

Top three marks of the season SS16 given by the analysts are dresses, wide - leg trousers and flowers and stripes as motifs in design. So, without these elements and our materials you cannot have a trendy and comercial collection. Passion, love for the work, dedication, joy, should be added to the list as well. In good and the evil…

I will use the opportunity to recommend you to watch a documentary film Dior et moi, a story about love, passion, inspiration, short deadlines, demanding tasks, a story about how Raf Simons came to Dior after the Galliano scandal and how he created a fairy tale in only 8 weeks.

I have promised summer in fall, and what can warm you up better than finding motivation and inspiration?

Enjoy, and visit Textil Užice, because we are here for you!

Jelena Pavlović / creative director

He was noticed bt the entire local fashion scene, by the British Vogue and Glamour Magazine. Their sites gave photo reports from his fashion show on the London Fashion Week in the Spring Summer 2016 ready to wear segment of the show. He is Vlada Savić, and he will talk for the Textil Funzine about what you want to hear the most. About materials!

How much do materials add to the simplicity and ready to wear character of your creations?

A lot, because the choice of materials is part of the design, of the fashion handwriting and aesthetics. This choice shows the designer’s sensibility and the way he feels the trend. My vision of the fashion is always going in the direction of simplicity and ready to wear, but with a strong author’s signature, so I try to adjust the choice of materials as well.

Do you choose materials by their construction abilities or do you have another principle?

Choosing fabrics for a collection excites me as it is a first step in the realisation process of the collection. I always come with sketches and a primary vision but the meeting with materials brings a completely different inspiration and it’s only here where the real creative process begins. My first contact with the fabric is visual but also tactile. I always try to feel the fabric as much as I can, to feel its structure, to see its texture, even to understand what it consists of. I find it very important that materials follow my aesthetics, that I feel how it behaves, how it falls, what form it can give. But the most important thing is the visualisation of the material into a model, it is that feeling and talent that makes the difference among designers.

Tamara Jarić respond to the trend demands.

Do you prefer contrasted or balanced material combinations?

My material choices are always compatible, but I like to strongly contrast the colours, very often using colour blocking.

How specific is working in local fashion houses in terms of fabrics?

Working in the industry has thought me to see the materials from a different point of view. To look at absolutely everything, raw ingredients, colour charts, weight, shrinkage, and all the other technical characteristics. Aside from this I always had to think about prices of materials, their wider use in the collection, as well as whether it matches the trends for the certain season or is it in the spirit of the brand I work for. These are all important aspects which can greatly affect the designs, as well as the sales.

When you say you follow blogs on fashion and design, are there such sites that are specialised in materials?

WGSN (Worth Global Style Network) is a website dedicated to proffessional designers and fashion proffessionals. It is a sort of an informational fashion service which is unfortunately not available for wider public.

It shows trends several seasons in advance, as well as inspirations, moodboards, colour charts, materials, as well as themes for the wider fashion sectors, such as marketing and sales. The biggest two segments on this site are about textile and trends. Knowing and working for some local brands gave me the opportunity to visit this unique goldmine of information.

When you spoke about the last, very much noticed, collection, you explained it using the colour and form principle. What about texture?

Generally speaking, those elements must be a trio, but the aesthetics and visuality have to shape them into one. Textures are a new segment that can be seen in the London collection, although they might not be easily noticable. Textures are very refined, borderline between hi tech and sport wear, and most importantly they completely

You use Textil materials in your creations.

What brought you to it?

Textil gave me a great possibility of choice, which is very important for me as a designer as it gives me the additional information and freedom of movement and is there anything more important than creative freedom? Little choice gives little possibility, and that is just not possible in Textil which makes it my choice. Aside from that, the size of the sellection gives me the oportunity to recognize the newest trends both in colour and fabric, as well as prints. It is all there, in one place, you just need to know how to see it.

no longer a new marketing strategy.

Barbour and Ralph Lauren are just some of the names using the new strategy. Joan Didion for Céline, Joni Mitchell (71) for Saint Laurent, Jessica Lange (65) for Marc Jacobs Beauty Charlotte Rampling (69) for Nars, Catherine Deneuve (71) for Louis Vuitton, and Anjelica Huston (63) for Gap, show how dominant this trend is. Kelly Osborne, Nicole Richie and Kylie Jenner support the fact of old age being in and dye their hair gray.

Only two centuries ago, a sixty years old person would be considered a very old person. Today, being in the seventh decade is considered to be middle aged. Experts find that old age now begins at 74 years of age, and middle age is nine years longer than in the last century. This change comes from the change of perception: being old is not mesured by years that passed, but the years left to live, especially

now that technologies prolongue the life expectancy. If we also add the dedication to a healthy lifestyle and exercise, an active approach to traveling, influence on fashion and social networks, we can see that the mature demographic leyers must be counted on. There is more and more educational programs for people over fifty, those who want to try themselves in a new career after their previous one is over. Art courses, design, cooking lessons for the elderly is a trend in an absolute increase in the US. Unlike botox and perfection ideals, the natural process of getting old and feeling comfortable in your own skin open up many options on the market.

Indulging yourself completely in the active life, being in absolute control of your own body, superiour mastering of elegance…the eternal youth is totally pasé! /

Too old for what?

Don’t expect them to take a nap after their lunch, knit sweaters and smell like naphthalene. They become DJs, programmers, social network stars. They go crazy on parties and music festivals, support marihuana legalization and always bring their boyfriends or girlfriends with them.

They are over seventy years old.

They were young and wild in the sixties, what will stop them from keeping their generation’s tradition?

Their influence on the fashion becomes greater. The clearest example is Helen Van Winkle A.K.A. Baddie Winkle who is 86 years old and has million and a half followers on Instagram and a contract with Dimepiece brand from Los Angeles. During last years fashion campaigns connect beauty and growing old, not being young, which is a change greeted by the buyers.

Multi-generational campaigns are

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Tamara Jarić, a young fashion designer, has definitely marked the Spring Belgrade Fashion Week. Apart from the award she got for the special contribution to the development of the quality fashion production, she also got the Textil Young Designer Award which is traditionally given on this manifestation. As a form of support for the young designers and with a goal to develop the fashion scene in Serbia, Textil company is carefully finding new and special phenomena.

She was educated as a designer in Florence and has worked and lived in New York and San Francisco for a few years . She is now in Belgrade by a twist of faith and doesn’t stop to awake great interest. It is interesting that this Fashion Week was her first time in front of the local audience who were thrilled by her creations.

How much do simplicity and elegance, qualities often connected to your author’s signature, depend on the materials used?

It is definitely easy to make an elegant piece when you have a well shaped material. Today the textile industry choices are widen so you can find materials of many qualities.

It makes designer’s job easier. I try to use quality materials for my collection. I dont use materials that crumple and I often choose a tougher structure for the visual effect. I love a well processed wool, cashmire, cold Italian wool, different texture leather, silk and viscose.

Also, in a piece of clothing the material is of crucial importance, because it is in direct contact with the body. It affects how a person feels. This is why i try to choose materials pleasant to the touch.

Can you state a personal experience with a material, a close encounter that maybe predestinated a creation? Or does the choice of materials always come after the idea already exists?

Inspiration and materials are closely connected. More often I already have an idea which determens the material. I adore materials and I can spend a whole day in choosing and looking at them. I prefer a finer processed materials, luxury wool, geometrical textures and fabrics with special effects.

How important are textures, a tactile approach towards clothing?

Texture is important both visually and in terms of tactile feeling. I often play with contrasts, for instance I combine dim and hard materials with shiny and light silk.

Every material has a character and you can tell a lot with different combinations. Many combinations can be born only if you are inspired by the contrasts in textile.

There is a whole parallel world of textile, specialized fairs, constant technological progress…

How important are trends in terms of materials?

I consider trends in materials closely connected to fashion trends which makes them highly important to me. It is difficult to be creative in fashion as a lot has already been done. The only space for further development in fashionn design is in materials and technology.

While creating your new life in Belgrade, after you came back, how did you find work partners? What is your experience in working with Textil company?

Everything happened really quickly after the first time I presented my work at the Belgrade Fashion Week in 2013. With this first performance I got in contact with people from the local fashion scene and soon I met the key people. Collaboration with Textil Užice company was a success and I can openly say that they have a world class level of organisation and proffessionalism. I am glad we have this kind of company in our country.