PreCollection SS 2013 moodboard Palette No. 1 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
Viskoza likra oe print Košuljarac mešavina Keper likra 4763 Viskozni štof tex-568 Simona Lan 15x15 Košuljar cotton voil crinkle check Keper streč saten XT-071 singl likra print
Photo > Ana Blažić Pavlović Art direction > Marko Stojaković Thnx > Žana Poliakov
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PreCollection SS 2013 moodboard Palette No. 2 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
Muslin Viskoza 100% print Viskoza light rbs-00417 Stof poly RBS-01877 FESTIV Viskoza likra print Muslin print silky Viskoza light rbs-00417 Lan 15x15
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STREET STYLE SECONDS Pravi trendovi su od uvek živeli na ulici. Ipak, do pre nekoliko godina trendovi su se prepoznavali na modelima sa pista. Sa pojavom interneta u središte pažnje su napokon dospeli obični ljudi i njihov smisao za spajanje trendova i igru sa modom. Začetnik online street style trenda je omiljeni Scott Schuman, koji je još 2005. godine na adresi www.thesartorialist.com počeo da beleži modu sa ulica. Posle njega su mnogi mladi fotografi pošli u osvajanje tada pustog online prostora i vrlo brzo su svi veći gradovi dobili svoju hroniku stila.
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Nažalost, ni u 2012. godini Beograd se nije priključio spisku onih gradova koji imaju fotografa koji brižljivo beleži stilske bravure sugrađana. Dok se neko od domaćih talenata ne doseti i ne prikaže svetu šta se to može naći u našoj prestonici, mi klikćemo i istražujemo šta se to dešava u komšiluku. Na našem blogu i Facebook stranici ste već mogli da vidite radove fotografa Gorana Čizmešije koji svakodnevno slika stanovnike Zagreba. Goranov osećaj za stil nije slučajan. Pre fotografije Goran se uspešno bavio modom. Na njegovoj stranici smo u prilici da vidimo da glavni grad Hrvatske i te kako ima stila.
Odevne kombinacije dodatno su začinjene odličnim kadrovima Goranovog oštrog oka. Goran je, atipično, počeo svoje fotografije da postavlja na Facebook stranu umesto na blog ili sajt. Ipak to nije sprečilo ljubitelje mode da njegovu stranicu pronađu i zavole, tako da ona trenutno broji više od 20.000 lajkera. Za talenat i posvećenost i od Textil tima sledi bookmark kao vrata! Pratimo Zagreb na adresi facebook.com/Street.Style.Seconds i željno čekamo i neke beogradske modne momente.
Jelena Karakaš
Čižmešija za InStyle Goran Čižmešija se ove jeseni našao u novoj zanimljivoj ulozi, naime on je od strane britanskog InStyle magazina odabran da bude zvanični fotograf za vreme nedelje mode u Londonu. Goran se prijavio na otvoreni svetski konkurs i, zahvaljujući onima koji vole njegove fotografije uspeo je da odnese pobedu. Fotografije će se naći na zvaničnoj web strani magazina, a Čižmešija planira da produži boravak u britanskoj prestonici i napravi veliku reportažu.
Marko Mitanovski
< Print Trends > Brush-Marked Uzorak impresionističkih platna na vašoj haljini. Slobodno možemo reći, sledećeg proleća nosiće se Mone, Sezan i Van Gog.
O modi. Marko Mitanovski je mladi kreator koji je pažnju javnosti skrenuo veoma zanimljivim kreacijama. Markov neobični stil primetio je i Nicola Formichetti, stilista zadužen za “pomereni” izgled Lady Gage. Posle toga njegova karijera krenula je uzlaznom putanjom, pa je ove godine modele prikazao i u atrijumu muzeja „Balenciaga“ u Španiji. Ondašnji mediji sa odobravanjem su ocenili rad Mitanovskog, web magazin „Diariovasco“ naveo je da su najzapaženije bile Markove geometrijske kreacije sa dizajnom i motivima teatralnog i vajarskog karaktera. Textil tim bio je jedan od prvih koji je uvideo potencijal ovog kreatora i upravo su Textil materijali iskorišćeni za prvu Markovu kolekciju koja mu je donela tolike pohvale. Kompanija Textil nastavlja da otkriva mlade talente i pomaže im da ostvare sve svoje kreativne ideje, a Mitanovski hrabro grabi napred. Razgovarali smo s njim o njegovom viđenju mode danas i planovima za budućnost. Promovisao si svoj rad širom sveta, da li postoji neko tržište koje je, više od ostalih, zanimljivo za tebe i tvoj rad? Da, to bi bio Pariz. Tačnije nedelja mode u Parizu. Često te vezuju za poznate ličnosti koje su nosile tvoje modele. Šta misliš o ovom vidu saradnje i koliko ti je bitno da ti se osoba koja odabere tvoje kreacije dopadne? Podrazumeva se da je bitno. Ipak, sve zavisi od konteksta. Nekada je odlućujuči faktor tim koji se brine o imidžu ličnosti, nekada izvođač čiji rad volim. Da se ne lažemo, nekada presude i finansije. Kakve god kompromise pravio, uvek obraćam pažnju da to ne bude po štetu mog dizajna. Bez obzira na sve, logična veza mora da postoji. Znamo za svetska lica, a da li postoji neka domaća ličnost sa kojom sarađuješ?
Jelena Karakaš
Devojke iz benda E-play, recimo. Tvoji modeli su izuzetno zanimljivi. Koliko ti vremena oduzima rad na njima? Zapravo koliko treba da prevedeš jedan komad materijala u svoju kreaciju? Sve zavisi od modela na kome radim. Nekada su mi potrebni sati, ponekad dani. Sistematičan sam u tom smislu i jako volim da istražujem. Koji su ti materijali omiljeni? Nemam omiljeni. Za mene dizajn uslovljava materijal. Šta ti je najzanimljiviji, a šta najteži deo tvog posla? Kreativni proces i saradnja sa timom su mi definitivno najzanimljiviji momenti. A najteži i najdosadniji je rešavanje finansija. Ističeš London kao grad za modne eksperimente. Šta mislis o tome što je nedelja moda u Londonu postala komercijalnija, a autori koji se tamo predstavljalju deluju mnogo manje hrabro nego pre? Na glavnom programu uvek su više zastupljene kolekcije pre svega namenjene prodaji. To ponekad stvara pogrešan utisak. Mislim da na off programu, koji podrazumeva mlade dizajnere, još uvek ima jako zanimljivih eksperimenata. Kompromisi sa tržištem postoje, ali mislim da još uvek ima egzibicionizma na sceni. Miljenik si svetskih i domaćih blogera i uopšte online zajednice. Šta misliš o ovom vidu promocije i koliko ti je internet kao medij zapravo pomogao u karijeri? Internet, na izvestan način, meni i jeste poslužio kao “odskočna daska”. Ta vrsta promocije nije ni najmanje zanemarljiva. Marko Mitanovski is a young creator whose unusual style has brought him to Lady Gaga’s stylist, Nicole Formichetti’s attention. After this event his career took an upturn, so this year he showed his models in Balenciaga Museum in Spain. The media liked his work, web
magazine Diariovasco stated that his geometrical creations, theatrical and sculptural, were the most impressive. Textil team was one of the first to recognize this creator’s potential and those were Textil materials that were used for Marko’s first collection. Textil company continues to discover new tallents and help them realize their creative ideas, while Mitanovski continues to thrive. We talked to him about his views on fashion today and his plans for the future. You have promoted your work all over the world. Is there a market you find especially interesting for your work? Yes, it would be Paris... Paris Fashion Week to be precize. You are often being recognized by your models that celebrities wore. What do you think about these collaboration and how important is it to you to like the person who choses your creations? Of course it matters. However, it all depends on the context. Sometimes the deciding factor is the team which looks after person’s image, and sometimes it is the performer I like. Frankly, sometimes it’s about financial aspect. Whatever compromise I make, I always try not to damage my design. No matter what, there must be some logic in it. We know about worldwide celebrities, but are there any local stars? For intance, girls from E-play band. Your models are extremely interesting. How much time does it take to work on them? Actually, how much time doest it take to translate a peace of material into a creation? It all depends on a model. Sometimes it takes hours, sometimes days. I am systematical and I like to explore.
Digitally Enhaced Romantizovana virtuelna realnost u rukama umetnika već više stotina godina. Floralna matična ploča.
Exotic Profusion Ako nikada niste sakupljali herbarijum, ovoga proleća ćete moći da nosite jedan.
Summer Tribe Zaigrajte plemenski ples uz vrelinu letnjeg vazduha. Aboridžinski ili pirotski uzorak, na vama je da odlučite.
What are your favorite materials? I don’t have a preference. For me design determines the material. Continued on page 12
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PreCollection SS 2013 moodboard Palette No. 3 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
Viskoza light RBS-00417 Cotton voil ( # bluebird ) Cotton voil ( # jasmin green ) Košuljar mešavina – riblja kost Stof poly Košuljar cotton voil crinkle check Košuljar mešavina Viskoza light RBS-00417
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PreCollection SS 2013 moodboard Palette No. 4 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
Keper harbor line XT-071 singl likra print Singl likra XT-11 Košuljar mešavina ( # blue ) XT-23 viskoza likra pruga Singl likra XT-11( #249 ) Singl likra XT-11( # 210 ) Jacquard ( # Sage C )
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< Print Trends >
Maastricht fashionclash
Vivid Jungle Iz srca džungle gde je vegetacija najbujnija očekuju vas živopisni printovi paprati. Provedite proleće i leto 2013. u džungli
Garden Crop Sama esencija nezaobilaznog florala. Prolećna bašta na barokni način. Proleće mora cvetati!
Ivana Pilja.
Circle State Krug i dalje vlada modnim pistama, ali ovoga puta preoblikovan u psihodelične printove optičkih varki i ćelijskih struktura.
Kreatorka Ivana Pilja je u centru pažnje od trenutka kad se pojavila na domaćoj modnoj sceni. Neobičnom i vrlo zrelom kolekcijom odmah je pokazala da namerava da se zadrži na sceni, a drugom kolekcijom dokazala je da uvek želi da ide napred. Pored predstavljanja beogradskoj publici, svoje modele prikazala je i u Holandiji, a plan joj je da se više posveti i karijeri van naše zemlje. Kompanija Textil je od samog starta prepoznala Ivanin potencijal i već nekoliko godina sarađuje sa ovom dizajnerkom na obostrano zadovoljstvo. Pilja nam otrkiva svoje planove. Reci nam nešto o svojoj poslednjoj kolekciji? Moja poslednja kolekcija prikazana je na holandskom modnom događaju Fashionclash i karakteriše je skulpturalna forma po kojoj sam ja i postala prepoznatljiva. Ono što je novo je izlazak iz crne boje i eksperimentisanje sa bojama.
African Graphics Nepresušna inspiracija uzorcima afričkih plemena. Bujnost kolorita i patterna.
Nama su pažnju privukli materijali, odnosno print sa insektima. Šta te je inspirisalo da baš oni budu u fokusu? Insekti na prvi pogled deluju odbojno, ali kada uđete malo dublje u njihov mikro svet shvatite da su veoma inspirativni. U centru moje pažnje je bio njihov oblik koji sam transponovala u formu kostima, kao i raznovrsnost boja i dezena koje poseduju. Printovi su rađeni posebno za tvoju kolekciju? Da, printovi su rađeni posebno za svaki model u saradnji sa ilustratorkom Nadom Serafimović i realizovani zahvaljujući proizvođaču sportske opreme Cvetex, koji je zaslužan za visok kvalitet printova rađen na najsavremenijim mašinama na ovim prostorima. Samim tim, ova kolekcija je jedan korak napred u istraživanju novog, a printovi su svakako
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Jelena Karakaš
dali drugačiju atmosferu celoj kolekciji i jak lični pečat. Koristila si i Textil materijale? Da, naravno. Sa Textilom sarađujem već nekoliko godina unazad, kako kroz modne kuće u kojima sam radila tako i kroz moje autorske kolekcije. Kompanija Textil poznata je po tome što daje veliku podršku mladim neafirmisanim dizajnerima, a takođe je to kompanija koja se ozbiljno bavi praćenjem trendova i tendencija nekoliko sezona u napred, što dosta pomaže nama kreatorima pri samom odabiru materijala i realizacijiji najsmelijih ideja. U aktuelnoj kolekciji Textil je zaslužan za crne površine. Budući da si poznata po skulpturalnoj formi i zanimljivim oblicima i krojevima, na koji način biraš materijale koje ćeš prevesti u kolekcije? Najbitnije mi je da je materijal postojan i čvrst, kako bi izdržao sva tretiranja do željenog oblika. Koliko ti je bitno da se svi elementi slože u jednu priču, od modela i materijala, do frizure? Sve je to jedna celina, koja je neophodna, i zahteva dobar tim ljudi. Imam sreće što sam našla nezamenljivi tim ljudi, počevši od kose i fantastičnih perika koje su Đukino delo. Muziku za moju reviju, koja nas uskoro očekuje na beogradskoj nedelji mode, specijalno za moju reviju radi DJ Stefan Sladik, dok je Mina Abramović zadužena za šminku. Smatram da bez timskog rada nema uspeha, jer svako od nas radi ono u čemu je najbolji. Kada se sve kockice slože revija je krajnji ishod našeg truda. Kad smo već kod pratećih elemenata, koliko ti je bitna muzika na reviji, da li tačno znaš kakvu atmosferu hoćeš da doneseš prililkom defilea tvojih modela?
Muzika mi je veoma bitna. Ona zaista daje posebnu atmosferu reviji koju želim da prenesem na publiku. Da li si već počela rad na nečemu novom? Da li polako slazeš svoj mood board? Trenutno radim na razradi nosive kolekcije namenjene prodaji. Da li na umu imaš već neke sledeće korake, možda neko prikazivanje na svetskom modnom sajmu i koliko je zapravo teško ući na svetsko tržiste? Da, imam u planu izlaganje u inostranstvu, ali još je tajna gde će to biti. Nije teško ući na svetsko tržište ukoliko je rad kvalitetan sa jakim autorskim pečatom, takve kolekcije same sebi probijaju put i privlače pažnju modne publike. From the moment she showed up on the local fashion scene Ivana Pilja has been in the center of attention. Her unusual and mature collections made it clear that she wants to stay on the scene and continue to progress. Apart from presenting to the Belgrade audience, she showed her models in Holland and she plans to develop her career outside of our country. Textil company saw her potential from the early beginning and has been cooporating with the designer ever since. Pilja is unveiling her plans. Tell us something about your last collection? My last collection has been presented on Fashionclash in Holland. Its sculptural form is what makes me and my collection recognizable. Experimenting with colors and leaving black behind is a new thing. Continued on page 12
Textil kids
< Print Trends > Geometric Signs Nalazimo se u zoni spoja geometrije i boja. Geometrijski uzorci nikada nisu bili popularniji i luđi. Izaberite svoj ugao.
Ombre Igra svetlosti i senke u letnjem sumraku. Kada oblici gube jasne obrise. Razlivene boje na paleti.
CIFF Kopenhagen. U toku protekle sezone više smo se posvetili modi namenjenoj najmlađima, jer upravo je ova modna grana u vrtoglavom porastu. Velike modne kuće jedna po jedna ulaze u trku, lansirajući posebne kolekcije namenjene deci. Kako bi istražili ono najbolje na tržištu zaputili smo se u Kopenhagen, na veliki CIFF sajam koji se dečijom modom bavi od 2004. godine i danas je jedan od najvećih na svetu. Bili smo u prlici da pregledamo nove modele i sveže ideje preko 175 brendova, a svi oni razmišljali su na temu sezone proleće/leto 2013. godine. Kupci velikih svetskih trgovniskih lanaca utrkivali su se ko će napraviti bolje i isplatljivije porudžbine, a vodili su se aktuelnim trendovima. Sezonu koja nam predstoji grubo možemo podelitu na četiri velika trenda koja će vladati svetom mode za mališane. Mali istraživači Ključne reči: džungla, vlaga, kamuflažno, funkcionalno U džungli je vruće i vlažno, zato su dobre čizme obavezne. U ekspediciji prava oprema je od ključne važnosti, ranci se nose na leđima i stižu u maskirnim dezenima, jakne u oker boji i praktični džemperi sada imaju brojne džepove koji mogu zatrebati na otvorenom. Avanturisti znaju da im život zavisi od onoga šta nose na sebi, zato su materijali postojani i otporni, krojevi su praktični, boje su neutralne, a motivi liče na životinjske šare. Najbitniji lov u dečijem svetu jeste onaj na zabavu, zato podešavamo naše specijalne satove (neophodna oprema!) i veselo uzvikujemo: vreme je za istraživanje! Veliki Getsbi Ključne reči: bele majice, opušteno,
bašta, sakoi, slamnati šeširi, čipkane haljine, sofisticirano Baš poput scena iz Velikog Getsbija ili uvodne scene iz Alise u zemlji čuda, ovaj trend donosi upeglanu atmosferu: bele haljinice i polo majice. Zamislite kuću ispunjenu nostalgičnim sećanjima, nameštaj je u nežnim bojama presvučen egipatskim pamukom, a vazduh je ispunjen mirisom ruže i borovnica... U bašti se devojčice kikoću, a njihove zlatne kose guvernante svako veče češljaju u sto poteza. Dame nose čipkane haljine i slamnate šešire sa trakama. Gospoda nose sakoe, letnje džempere i bele majice. Čaj se servira u bašti popodne, a uz šoljicu toplog napitka vode se lagani razgovori. Nova moda vraća nam duh prohujalih vremena. Venice beach ‘79. Ključne reči: surf, džins, printovi, isprane boje, plaža Život je ružičast na Venice plaži 1979. godine. Ljubav je u vazduhu, a surferi su u vodi, u potrazi su za savršenim talasom. Šortsevi su kratki, kosa je duga, a žvake imaju ukus lubenice. To je doba opuštenog života i nevinosti, živi se kalifronijski san. Noći su tople, sumraci donose ljubičastu boju, a jutra nežnu plavu. Opušteno doba donosi ležeran stil oblačenja. Surf stil je okosnica trenda. Gaučo Ključne reči: konjica, koža, prašina, matador, ukrojeno Gaučo trend je trend kontradiktornosti. Spaja nežnu čipku i grubu kožu, svetle i tamne boje, Meksiko i Srednji zapad, gringose i kauboje, dramu i miran život. Kvalitet je presudan, fina koža sa godinama dobija patinu, vuna traje godinama. I muško i žensko odevanje počiva na istim principima, tu su šeširi, kaiševi sa velikim šnalama, bele košulje
Jelena Karakaš
i obavezno podvrnuti rukavi. Niko kuću ne napušta bez ešarpe. Paleta boja proteže se od bež do mahagoni, uz akcente u beloj, purpurnoj, teksas plavoj i vatrenocrvenoj boji. Ole! Last season we were more dedicated to kids’ fashion as it is a highly developing department. Big fashion houses are all one by one entering the race of making kids’ collections In order to see what’s best on the market we went to Copenhagen’c CIFF fair which deals with kidswear since 2004. and is one of the biggest today. We were able to see the new models and fresh ideas from over 175 brands, for season spring/summer 2013. Buyers from big trade chains, lead by new trends, were racing to make better and more lucrative demands. The upcoming season can be split into four big trends which will rule the world of children’s fashion. Little explorers Key words: jungle, humidity, camuflage, functional Jungle is a very warm and humid place, so good boots are a must. Good equipment is esencial on an expedition: backpacks in camuflage colors, ocher jackets and practical sweaters with numerous pockets that could come in handy in open air. Adventureus spirits know that their lives depend on what they are wearing so materials are stable and resistant, shapes are practical, colors neutral, and motifs look like animal prints. The most important hunting in children’s lives is hunting for fun, so let’s sinchronize our special watches (esencial equipment) and cheerfully shout: Exploration time! Continued on page 12
Patch Up Spajanje nespojivog je apsolutni trend proleća 2013. Trendovi prethodnih sezona sada su spojeni u patchwork.
Ocean Distortion Sa dna morskog prostranstva stiže igra plavih nijansi. Distorzija riblje krljušti promatrana kroz kaleidoskop.
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Intro I construct lines and color combinations on a flat surface, in order to express general beauty with the utmost awareness. Piet Mondrian, founder of neoplastcism Season spring/summer 2013 calls for a creative, metaphysical Mondrian approach. Sparkling and colorful, it gives a positive aspect to symbolics of the number 13. In order to communicate its message more clearly, it advocates extreme simplicity, rich in content. This fashion story consists of scientific precision and artistic grace. Leading materials are cotton, silk and refined synthetic fabrics, all very translucent. Thanks to their extreme thickness and technical finishings, their soft, shiny, smood surfaces are a perfect base for colors. Introduction of thread as a fashion detail together with scattered motifs create dynamics of alternatly empty and full areas. The spirit of the season is well presented in the interesting silhouette with lightwight voiles and elongated form. Inspiration can be found even in business suits with ethnic references. Accents in braids, peril, aplications or ornamental design. Value added is a marketing trick which should animate and help the choosing of a certain collection: in the current economical crisis it is intelligent to play a game well. The game of value added is best understood in sport brands. Everyone loves comfort and quality of the technical aspect. This is not new, but it is gaining value over time. Lafuma, Aigle, North Face, you cannot even name all the sport brands that develop their own fashion lines. Lifestyles ask for technical materials, so we even have urban bicycling as one of the new fashion influences. As a result, certain brands have again decided to design clothes on the same theme. Levi’s developed jeans with very functional details, completely adapted to bicycling. John Boultbee chose a luxury style with jackets made of brathing and waterproof Ventile fabrics. Functional and fun at the same time, shiny retro suits appear from the dark – Eurobike, Performance Days and Denim by Première Vision Dressing codes for different classes do not exist any more, and maximum of all potentials must be used. Nobody has to be dressed by a certain dress code, interventions are desired. The influence of the 50’s can be felt in retro aspects. At the same time the wild looks of torn jeans, crazy patches, pale contours, creased effects, all combine into a new tipe of sophistication where torn becomes lace, where imperfection becomes precise ornament, and this is not a coincidance, but patient work of craftsmen More inspiration and details we offer you on these pages, as well as on our site, blog, FB page and monthly newsletters. Jelena Pavlović creative director
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Textil kids The Great Gatsby Key words: white t-shirts, laid back, jacket, leghorn, lace dresses, sofisticated Just as in The Great Gatsby or in Alice in Wonderland this trend carries a neat atmosphere: white dresses and polo shirts. Imagine a house filled with nostalgic memorabilia, with furniture in gentle colors and Egyptian cotton, where the air smells of roses and blueberries... Girls giggling in the garden. Ladies in lace dresses and leghorns with ribbons. Gentlemen wear jackets, summer sweaters and white shirts. Tea is being served in the garden in the afternoon and with each cup of warm beverage a soft meaningless conversation enfolds. New fashion brings back the spirit of times long gone. Venice beach ‘79. Key words: surfing, jeans, prints, washed out colors, beach Life is pink on the Venice beach in the year 1979. Love is in the air, surfers in the water chasing the perfect wave. Shorts are short, hair is long and chewing gums taste like watermellon. This is the era of laid back life and innocence, of living the Californian dream. Nights are warm, dusk brings the violet color as dawn brings a gentle blue. Relaxed times bring casual fashion styles. Surfing is the focus of this trend. Gaucho Key words: cavalry, leather, dust, matador, tailored Gaucho is a trend of cotradictions, connecting gentle lace and rough leather, light and dark colors, Mexico and Middle West, gringos and cowboys, drama and peaceful life. Quality is esencial, good leather gains patina over time, wool lasts for years. Both men and women’s wear is based on the same principles: hats, belts with big buckles, white shirts with rolled up sleeves. Nobody is leaving the house without a scarf. Colors vary from beige to mahagoni with accents on white, purple, blue jeans and scarlet red. Ole!
Ivana Pilja We were attracted by materials you chose, insect print to be more precize. What inspired you to make them your focus? Insects may seem repulsive, but going deeper into their micro world makes you realize that they are very inspiring. I transformed their shape, which was in the center of my attention, into a costume, as well as their multiplicity of colors and patterns. Prints were made especially for your collection? Yes, prints were made in collaboration with illustratior Nada Serafimović, especially for each model. The realisation was made possible by Cvetex, sport’s equipment producer, also being responsible for prints’ high quality. In that sense, this collection is a step forward in exploring the new, while the prints gave a different atmosphere to the whole collection and a strong personal touch. You were also using Textil materials? Yes, of course. I have been collaborating with Textil for a couple of years already, eighter as part of fashion agencies or through my own collections. Textil company is famous for supporting young designers, and they also seriously follow trends and fashion tendencies which is very helpful to us designers in choosing materials as well as in realisation of our ideas. Textil is responsible for black surfaces in my new collection. How do you choose materials which will be translated to a collection, since you are famous for your sculptural form and interesting shapes? I find it most important that the material is stable and hard so it could
endure the complete treatment until it reaches desired shape. How important is it to combine all elements into a unique story, from models and materials to hairstyle? It is all a necessary unity which demands a good team of people. I’m very lucky that I found a great team - hair and exellent wigs were done by Djuka, music for the upcoming show on Belgrade fashion week by DJ Stefan Sladik, and the makeup artist is Mina Abramović. I think that there cannot be any success without the team work, because everyone is doing what they do best, and when everything comes together we get a fashion show as the final product. Speaking of secondary elements, how important is music in your show, and do you know exactly what kind of atmosphere you want to provoke while the models are on the catwalk? I care deeply about music. It really does give a special atmosphere which I want to transfer to the audience. Have you already started working on something new? How is the mood board going? I am currently working on developing a more comercial collection. What are your next steps, maybe a world fair? How hard is it to enter the world market? Yes, I do plan to exibit abroad, but it is still a secret where exactly. It is not hard to enter the world market if you have quality and a strong personal touch - collections like that find their own way to the audience.
M. Mitanovski
STREET STYLE SECONDS
What is the most interesting and what the hardest part of your work? The creative process and collaboration with my team are definitelly the most interesting moments. The hardest and the most boring part is dealing with financies.
Real trends have always lived on the streets, still, up to just a few yers ago you could see trends only on the catwalk. With internet, regular people and their sense of combining trends and playing with fashion come to focus.
combinations are spiced up with Goran’s talent and sense for details. Goran prefers uploading his photos on facebook instead of a blog or a site, but this doesn’t stop his fans from finding and liking his page which now counts more than 20 000 likes.
The pioneer of online street style trend is everybody’s favourite Scott Schuman who started noting street fashion on his blog www. thesartorialist.com in 2005. After him young photographers everywhere started inhabiting the waste online space and pretty soon all major cities had a photogharpher who was carefully noting his fellow citizens’ fashion bravuras. Until one of our local talents comes up with a similar idea of showing interesting things, we are exploring the neighbourhoood.
Because of his talent and devotion we bookmark him and follow Zagreb on this adress: facebook.com/Street.Style.Seconds
You consider London to be city of fashion experiments. How do you feel about the fact that London Fashion Week became more commercial and the authors less brave? The main programme has always presented commercial collections. It sometimes creates the wrong impression. I think that off programme for young designers still has very interesting experiments. There are compromises with the market, but I believe there is still exibitionism on the scene. Bloggers and online community love you. How do you feel about this way of promotion and how much has the internet helped your career? Internet has in a way launched my career. That type of promotion is not insignificant at all.
You may have already seen Goran Čizmešija’s work on our blog or our facebook page. He is taking pictures of his fellow citizens in Zagreb every day. His sense for fashion is not accidental as he was already successful in this field. On his page Croatia’s capital is very stylish,
Goran Čižmešija for InStyle Goran Čižmešija will have an interesting role this year as he had been chosen by the British InStyle magasine to be the official photographer during London fashion week. He applied for an open competition and thanks to those who love his photos succeeded in winning. Photographs will be on the magasine’s official web page and he is planning to expend his stay in the British capital and make a big reportage.