No.4 // oktobar 2011 // Besplatan primerak
Pregršt dnevnih novosti iz mode, dizajna i lepote življenja potražite i na našoj facebook stranici. www.facebook.com/TextilUzice
www.textilue.rs
Čitamo trendove
Jelena Pavlović
Kao što ste već navikli, između dva broja Textilovog fanzina, naš Dizajn studio je jurio preko svih meridijana i skupljao najnovije vesti i inspiracije, a pre svega čitao trendove, kako biste upravo vi bili prvi koji će saznati šta će se to nositi – sutra! U ovom broju smo rešili da vam približimo sam proces stvaranja. Kako nastaju kreacije za kojima žudite, kako dizajneri biraju materijale i šta sanjaju? Jer, dobro znamo da je moda satkana od snova. Zbog toga smo razgovarali sa domaćim kreatorima koji već nekoliko godina uspešno sarađuju sa kompanijom Textil. Tu su oni već etablirani, poput sestara Proković, ali i oni na početku svog modnog puta, kojima predviđamo sjajnu sudbinu.
Naravno, upoznaćemo vas i sa aktuelnim trendovima, modnim tendencijama i smernicama za sezonu proleće/leto 2012. godine. Posmatrali smo i analizirali ne samo modu, već i dizajn, arhitekturu, pozorište i film. Jasno je da se modni svet polarizovao na dva trenda: jedan od njih jeste povratak minimalizmu, dok je drugi totalna suprotnost – neobičan, radikalan, glamurozan. Materijale za narednu sezonu mogli bismo opisati kao jednostavne i luksuzne. Oni su mekani, fini, glatki. Sezonu će obeležiti filozofija „ništa nije previše žensko, niti previše muško”, što će biti apsolutni uniseks trend.
Newsletter
Berlin
Kopenhagen
Blog
Pogledajte i šta se svakog meseca kuva u našim kancelarijama. Za vas pripremamo Textil newsletter. Mesečna inspiracija iz Textilovih kancelarija direkto u vašem elektronskom sandučetu. textilue.rs/newsletter.htm
I ovog leta smo posetili ultimativni sajam casual garderobe, Bread and Butter u Berlinu. Saznali smo da je džins u boji apsolutni must, te da kada smo kod garderobe, veličina, štanda, nije uvek bitna! Više o tome šta smo videli u Berlinu u našem newsletter-u broj 3 na stranici textilue.rs/newsletter.htm
Mesec avgust posvetili smo poseti Kopenhagenu i Bella centru gde se održao CIFF kids, sa preko dvesta izlagača iz celog sveta. Videli smo fantastične prezentacije trendova kada je dečija moda u pitanju. Više o dečijoj modi i sajmovima u newsletter-u broj 4 na stranici textilue.rs/newsletter.htm
A kako bi saznali ono što i mi svakodnevno istražujemo posetite naš blog. Saznajte šta rade saradnici kompanije Textil, ili se edukujte najnovijim modnim trendovima, bilo da su u pitanju boje, materijali, dezeni ili krojevi, vodećih svetskih brendova. textilue.blogspot.com ili skenirajte ovaj QR kod.
Firenca
Pariz
Textil Funzine tim
Od 23. do 25. juna posetili smo i PITTI IMAMAGINE BIMBO u Firenci. Međunarodni sajam koji daje kompletnu sliku i pravce za najmlađe, od baby do teenage programa. Više o ovoj temi u newsletter-u broj 4 na stranici textilue.rs/newsletter.htm
Tim kompanije Textil dnevno pregleda pregršt online destinacija. Kako bi i vama pokazali ono što je nama zapalo za oko otvorili smo Facebook stranicu. “Lajkujte” nas na adresi: www.facebook.com/TextilUzice ili skenirajte ovaj QR kod.
A kako bi prikupili inspiraciju za nove kolekcije prošetali smo se i do Pariza. I dok vas u ovom funzine-u upoznajemo sa trendovima za 2012. godinu PREMIÈRE VISION je naš tim već uveo u trendove za 2013.
Trendove za vas lovili: Jelena Pavlović u ulozi kreativnog direktora i vrhovne komande, Textil Design Studio, Marko Stojaković kao koncept & art direktor, dizajner i urednik svemira, te neprevaziđena blog starleta Jelena Karakaš poznatija kao konevolicipele.com. Naše uzburkane modne misli sredile i u engleski jezik pretočile Milica Ivić i Jovana Lutovac.
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Kada govorimo o bojama, tu je nekoliko pravaca kojim će moda krenuti. Oni koji nisu skloni riziku poći će ka neutralnim bež nijansama, kao i braon boji koja se ponovo vraća na tron. Oni skloni radikalnim potezima i upadljivim krojevima sasvim sigurno će posegnuti za bojama Kariba ili intenzivnim bojama prirode. Ono što će skoro svi koristiti bez obzira na izabrane palete jeste dodir metala. Kreacije će biti sjajne u bukvalnom smislu! Zlatna i srebrna provlačiće se kao akcenat, efekat i detalj. Za utisak esktremne ženstvenosti i glamura.
Dok čitate ove redove mi smo već uveliko na putu ka sezoni jesen/ zima 2012/13. Surovi modni časovnik neumoljivo nastavlja da kuca, a modni poslenici već hvataju beleške za narednu godinu. Kako biste ostali u trendu između sezona pratite najnovije modne vesti na našoj web stranici www.textilue.rs Jelena Pavlović creative director
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Textil preporučuje
Jelena Karakaš
Aquilano Rimondi
Burberry Prorsum
Dvojac Roberto Rimondi i Tomaso Akilano modnoj publici je ponudio ljupku kolekciju kojom dominira domišljato korišćenje digitalnog foto-printa. Po njihovim rečima, inspiraciju za kolekciju pronašli su u italijanskoj renesansi, ali i u Fere i Versaće kreacijama iz osamdesetih godina. Pažnju su nam privukle i sjajne cipele: saten, zmijski print i prevrnuta koža?! Izgleda bolje nego što zvuči. Twosome Roberto Rimondi and Tomasso Aquilano offered a lovely collection to fashion audience, dominated by clever use of digitalized photo print. They took as their starting point the Italian Renaissance and eighties fashion, the era of Ferrè and Versace. We were also attracted to great shoes: satin, snake print and leather?! It looks better than it sounds.
Kristofer Bejli je i ovog puta uspeo da nas oduševi! Iako njegovo proleće deluje kao kolekcija za ranu jesen, prikazani modeli su sjajni. Tu se našlo dosta predimenzioniranih jakni „mekanog“ izgleda, suknji do kolena i ležernih džemperića. Ipak, detalji su ukrali šou. Cipelama i torbama prognoziramo sjajnu budućnost. Christopher Bailey thrilled us one more time! Although his spring looks like an early autumn collection, what he showed was fabulous. There were „soft“ looking over-sized jackets, knee lenght skirts and casual sweaters. But, accessories took all the attention. We predict great future for shoes and bags.
Etro
Lanvin
Veronika Etro, kreatorka modne kuće Etro, novu kolekciju opisala je u dve reči: „snažni printovi!“ I to je zaista ono oko čega se svi modeli vrte. Jake boje i neobične cik-cak šare proizvele su kreacije za hrabre, samouverene žene od stila. Uzorci su toliko zanimljivi da asesoari nisu bili ni potrebni. Ova odeća je ukras sama po sebi. Veronica Etro, Etro fashion house designer, described the new collection like this: “The prints we’ve done are strong”. And indeed, that is what all pieces are about. Strong colors and unusual zig-zag patterns resulted in creations for brave, confident stylish women. Clothes are so interesting, that accessories were not necessary at all. These clothes are ornaments themselves!
Šarmantni Alber je prolećnu kolekciju izgradio za snažnu poslovnu ženu. Ponudio joj je ukrojene suknje visokog struka, jednostavne bluze i pantalone čiji kroj na pravi način podržava žensku figuru. Ipak, nije se odrekao prepoznatljivih drapiranih haljina. Lagane, prozirne kreacije od tila podsetile su nas koliko zapravo volimo Elbaza. Charming Alber made spring colection for a strong business woman. He offered her high waisted pencil skirts, simple tops and trousers made to support female figure in the right way. However, he didn’t give up recognizable draping dresses. Light, seethroug pieces reminded us how much we really love Elbaz.
Paul Smith
Prabal Gurung
Sir Pol Smit je i ovog puta ostao veran svom stilu: opuštena elegancija, flertovanje sa muškim principom u ženskom odevanju, elementi britanske mode uz pravu dozu jarkih boja. Iako mu je modna kritika zamerila uporno forsiranje sličnih motiva, Pol nema razloga za brigu, on je„boy meets girl“ kreacije zaista doveo do savršenstva! Sir Paul Smith once again remained faithful to his own style: casual elegance, flirting with menswear cut for girls, elements of British fashion with right amount of vivid colors... Although fashion critique complained about constant presence of similar motives, Paul has nothing to worry about. He made „Boy Meets Girl“ pieces absolutely perfect!
Novo Prabalovo proleće inspirisano je radom japanskog fotografa Nobujoši Arakija. Floralne motive je zasnovao na njegovoj seriji „Sensual Flowers”. Tu je i asocijacija na fetiš vezivanja kroz lakirane i lasteks crne pojaseve, a deo kolekcije ispratio je aktuelni trend prozirnih materijala. Kako bi zaokružio priču, Prabal je provukao Arakijeve boje i kroz prateće elemente, kao što su šminka i manikir. New Prabal spring is inspired by work of Japanese photographer Nobuyoshi Araki. Floral motives were based on his series „Sensual Flowers“. There is also an association with bondage fetish through black leather and silk cord harnesses, while part of the collection follows current provocative sheer mesh trend. To make this story complete, he included Araki colors in accessories, from make-up to manicure.
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Textil sarađuje sa >>>
JSP // Jelena i Svetlana Proković JSP je kreativni tim koji čine sestre Jelena i Svetlana Proković. Zajedničku modnu marku osnovale su 1992. godine, a danas je njihov rad prepoznatljiv i priznat. Istovremeno deluju u Beogradu i Ljubljani, što ih ne sprečava da zajedničkim snagama osmišljavaju nove kolekcije, ali i da planiraju širenje na zemlje iz regiona. Budući da je Jelena završila kostimografiju, a da je Svetlana diplomirani arhitekta, njihova moda obuhvata mnogo šire okvire i zbog toga JSP kolekcije predstavljaju pravu poslasticu za istinske modne zaljubljenike. Kompanija Textil ponosna je na sardnju koju ima sa sestrama Proković. O inspiraciji, omiljenim materijalima i planovima razgovarali smo sa Svetlanom Proković. Da li se na vašem moodboardu prvo ređaju materijali ili neke inspirativne fotografije? Sve zavisi. Dogodi se da prvo pronađemo neke zanimljive materijale pa da onda razmišljamo šta bismo mogli sa njima. Jelena i ja već jedanaest godina ne živimo na istom mestu, tako da se pred svaku sezonu nalazimo ili u Beogradu ili u Ljubljani i razgovaramo. Obično sam početak nije vezan ni za materijale, ni za krojeve, već razgovaramo o stvarima koje nas u tom trenutku inspirišu i opsedaju. To je najčešće vezano za neku drugu vrstu umetnosti koja je ostavila traga u nama i naterala nas na razmišljanje. Na početku ne crtamo precizne skice, više su to samo neke ideje koje zatim razrađujemo.
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Koliko vam je naporno to stvaranje na daljinu? Sestre smo, dugo radimo zajedno, vezane smo jedna za drugu i jako slično razmišljamo. Imamo sreću da smo obično u sličnim životnim fazama. To ne znači da nema nekih konfilikata, ali tada radimo ono što je najbolje za sam proizvod. Taj početak rada na kolekekciji najviše ima veze sa samom prezentacijom revije. Trudimo da to ne bude puki izlazak manekena na pistu. Mi želimo da sve ima smisla, smišljamo šminku, frizure, stajling, biramo muziku koja će potencirati atmosferu koju želimo da dočaramo. Zbog svega toga su nam upravo revije najdraži deo posla. Dizajn pre udobnosti ili obrnuto? Dizajn i udobnost moraju da idu zajedno. Stvari na našim revijama umeju nekada da izgledaju dosta „pomereno“, ali to je obično na nivou stajlinga. Kada se sve to raščlani,vidi se da je svaki komad nosiv. Modu doživljavamo kao vrstu primenjene umetnosti odnosno nešto što mora da živi na ljudima. Inače ste sklone koršćenju prirodnih matrijala? Čak 90% materijala koje koristimo je potpuno prirodno: pamuk, svila, viskoza, koža. Trudimo se da ne koristimo veštačke materijale u našem radu. Mada je industrija materijala toliko daleko odmakla da danas imamo neke potpuno veštačke materijale koji se ponašaju isto, ako ne i bolje od prirodnih. Dosta radimo sa kožom,
Jelena Karakaš
biramo onu koja je na poseban način farbana ili ima aplikacije. U ovoj sezoni imaćemo i stvari koje su farbane ekološkim bojama. Tako površina kože nije zapušena bojom, ona diše. Ponekad eksperimentišemo sa materijalima, 2009. godine igrale smo se sa tajvekom. Od materijala koji je do tad bio vezivan za sportsku konfekciju kreirale smo elegantne komade: haljine, pantalone i bluze. Textil je jedan od vaših vernih partnera? Sa Textilom sarađujemo niz godina, jer ako radiš za inostranstvo moraš imati sigurnog partnera uz sebe. Te kolekcije za izvoz radimo unapred. Zato nam se dosta onoga što nudimo bazira na Textilovom asortimanu. Doslednost i ispunjena očekivanja mnogo znače dizajneru. A moram da dodam da su i naše mušterije jako zadovoljne Textil materijalima. Filmovi su nešto što je obeležilo JSP brend kada je inspiracija u pitanju. Da li postoji neki film novije produkcije koji vam je u tom smislu interesantan? Ne baš. Noviji filmovi su najčešće zasnovani na spektaklu. Više volim filmove koji su poput dobrog romana, vezani za neku svakodnevnu priču. Na pamet mi pada „Put“ film sa Vigom Mortensenom u naslovnoj ulozi. To je apokaliptičan film, dosta je težak, ali je ostavio vrlo jak utisak na mene. U poslednje vreme mi se retko kad desi da dugo razmišljam posle odgledanog
filma. Svideo mi se i serijal „Gospodar prstenova“, to je retka situacija da film izgleda bolje od onoga što zamišljaš dok čitaš knjigu. U svakom slučaju jako mi je bitno da pored vizuelnog momenta film ima i jaku priču. Naišla sam na podatak da je žena za koju vi kreirate samouverena, seksipilna, provokativna i jaka. Da li baš takve žene kupuju vaše kreacije? Ljudi na različite načine tumače kakva bi to žena mogla da bude. Mi nikada u glavi nemamo unapred ideju kakva žena bi trebalo da nosi određen model. Kako dosta dugo imamo sopstvenu radnju, uverile smo se da našu odeću kupuju najrazličitije žene. Možda ne bih rekla da je JSP žena jaka, pre bih se opredelila za pridev hrabra. Ona je hrabra jer se usuđuje da nosi nešto drugačije od većine. Mi se trudimo da od žena načinimo žene. Da se one u našoj odeći dopadnu, pre svega, sebi, a zatim i drugima. Uvek sam prijatno iznenađena i začuđena kada vidim naše kreacije na ženama po gradu. Beograd, Ljubljana, Beč, a nedavno i Brač. Imate li ideju koji je to sledeći grad na vašoj modnoj mapi? Upravo smo završile predstavljanje na nedelji mode u Beču. Jako smo zadovoljne kako je sve to ispalo. Pokazale smo proleće/leto 2012. U toj kolekciji ima dosta grafike, asimetrije; što se boja tiče tu su crna, bela, siva i žuta kao akcenat; ima kožnih detalja. Danijela Biškup nam je pravila cipele za kolekciju. Krajem oktobra ćemo
Not really. New movies are usually based on a spectacle. I prefer movies that are like a good novel, related to an every day story. Movie The Road with Viggo Mortensen crosses my mind. It is an apocalyptic movie, pretty hard, but it has left a strong mark on me. Lately it is very rare that a movie makes me think a long time after I have wached it. I liked The Lord of the Rings serial, it is so rare that a movie looks better visually than what you imagine while reading a book. Anyway, I find it very important that a movie has a strong story.
imati reviju u Ljubljani. Pre svega toga smo prikazali resort kolekciju u Bolu na Braču. Prodajemo u Srbiji, Sloveniji i Švajcarskoj. A sve više otkrivamo i čari prodaje preko interneta. Kad smo kod interneta, šta mislite o trendu online mode? Sve se brzo menja. Naš sajt smo napravile pre sedam-osam godina, tada nismo tačno znale šta će nam online prezentacija. U tom trenutku retko koja domaća firma je imala sajt. Ono što me je iznenadilo jeste povratna reakcija, neverovatno je koliko ljudi sa svih strana sveta posećuje naš sajt i prati to što radimo. Vrlo se uključujemo u čitavu tu online problematiku. Veliki broj ljudi u inostranstvu živi tako što sve kupuje preko interneta, tržište se proširilo, sve je postalo mnogo dostupnije. Ipak, nije jednostavno proizvoditi i prodavati iz Srbije, ali nije nemoguće. Videćemo šta će nam budućnost doneti. Sisters Jelena and Svetlana Proković are JSP creative team. They founded their fashion brand in 1992 and today their work is recognized and well known. They work simultaneously in Belgrade and Ljubljana which doesn`t stop them neighter from creating new collections together, nor from planning their development and spreading to the other countries in the region. Since Jelena finished costimography, and Svetlana is an architect, their work exceeds classical fashion. Textil company is proud of their collaboration with sisters Proković. About inspiration, favourite materials and plans, Svetlana Proković told us:
Your moodboard rather shows materials or some inspirational photos? It all depends. Sometimes we find some interesting materials first, and we think about what to do with them. For 11 years Jelena and I don`t live in the same place, so before every season we meet in Belgrade or in Ljubljana and talk. The beginning itself isn`t connected neither to materials nor to sewing patterns, we just talk about the things that inspire us and obsess us at that moment. Usually it is connected to some other type of art that left an impression on us and made us think. We don`t draw precise sketches in the beginning, but just some ideas we later develop. How hard is it to create that far away from each other? We are sisters, we work together for a long time, we are connected to each other and we think alike. We are lucky to be in similar life fases. That doesn`t mean that there are no conflicts but then we do what is best for the product itself. The beginnig of work on a new collection is mostly connected to the presentation of the fashion show. We try not to make it just an appearance of models on the catwalk. We want everything to make sence, we think about make up, haircuts, styling, we chose music that will enhance the atmosphere we want to give. All of this makes shows the favourite part of our work. Design before comfort or vice versa? Design and comfort must go together. Our products may sometimes seem a bit weird, but it is usually just on the level of styling. When you decompose
it you see that every single part is wearable. We see fashion as a type of applied art, or something that has to live on people. You usually use natural materials? Up to 90% of the materials we use are completely natural: cotton, silk, viskose, leather... We try not to use artificial materials in our work. Although, the industry of materials is progressing so fast that we now have completely artificial materials with same or better preformances than the natural ones. We work a lot with leather, we choose those that are dyed in a special way or that have applications on them. This season we will have an amount of clothes dyed with ecological colours. This way the surface of the leather isn`t choked with the colour, it is breathing. Sometimes we experiment with materials. In year 2009 we have played with tyvek. From a material that was associated with sportswear we have created elegant pieces: dresses, trousers, tops, etc. Textil is one of your loyal partners? We collaborate with Textil during a number of years, because if you work for a foreign market, you have to have a partner you can trust. Collections we export are made in advance. That is why a lot of the things we do are based on Textil`s choices. Consistency and filled expectations mean a lot to a designer. And our costumers are very happy with Textil`s materials, I must add. Movies have marked the JSP brand in terms of inspiration. Is there a new production that you find interesting in this sence?
I have read somewhere that a woman you create for is selfconfident, sexy, provocative and strong. Is that the type of woman that buys your creations? People have different ideas of what type of a woman she could be. We never have in advance the idea of what would a certain type of woman wear. Since we have our own store for a long time, we came to understand that all sorts of women buy our cloths. I wouldn`t say that a JSP woman is strong, I would rather say brave. She is brave because she dares to wear something different than the majority. We try to make women be women. First they have to like themselves and then the others will like them. I am always pleasantly surprised to see our creations on women in the city. Belgrade, Ljubljana, Vienna and recently Brač. Do you have an idea what would be the next city on your fashion map? We have just finished our presentation on Vienna fashion week. We are very hapy with how well it turned out. We showed spring/summer 2012, a collection that has a lot of graphic, asymetry. Accented colours are white, black yellow and gray. There are leather details, Danijela Biškup made shoes for our collection. By the end of october we will have a fashion show in Ljubljana. Before all this we have shown our resort collection on Brač. We sell in Serbia, Slovenia and Switzerland. And we discover advantages of selling on internet more and more. Speaking of Internet, what do you think about the trend of online fashion? Everything is changing so fast. We made our site seven, eight years ago, when we didn`t know exactly what would we do with an online presentation. At that moment very few local companies even had a site. What surprised me is the feedback - it is incredible how many people from all over the world visit our website and follow our work. We are getting very involved in this whole online business. A huge amount of people abroad shops online. The market grew, everything became way more available. Still, it is not simple to produce and sell from serbia, but it is not imposible. We`ll see what the future holds.
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Dezeni&Boje
Jelena Karakaš & Jelena Pavlović
Kad ste u nedoumici obucite crvenu When in doubt, wear red
Blass, Bill
Op art
Floral
Prime suspects
Stripes
Sledeće sezone odeća će baš privlačiti pažnju. Princip dress to impress oživljava u punom sjaju. Jedan od trendova koji to potvrđuje jeste uzor op arta koji su dizajneri rado koristili. Odevnim komadima op art daje iluziju kretanja, uz duže promatranje pojavljuju se skrivene slike, treperenje i vibracije. Next season clothing will deffinitely attract attention and dress to impress fashion will have its highlight. One of the trends that confirms that is - op art, gladly used by designers. Op art creates illusion of movement, and after longer looking at it hidden images appear, as well as shaking and vibrations...
Bez sumnje. Sledećeg proleća procvetaćemo i u bukvalnom i u prenesenom značenju. Floralni motivi ubedljivo vode kao prolećni dezen broj jedan. Sve vrste cveća biće u opticaju. Mi predlažemo neuobičajenu plavu varijantu. Zašto da ne? No doubt. Next spring we will bloom, literary and metaphoricaly. Floral motives convincingly lead as spring pattern number one. All kinds of flowers will be there. We suggest unusual blue version. Why not?
Kreatori su se ove godine razigrali kada je u pitanju dizajn tekstila. Tu je mnoštvo boja, oblika i neočekivano uklopljenih dezena. A ono što je nama bilo simpatično jesu printovi lica kao ključni motiv. When it comes to textile design, this year designers are really into playing. There is variety of colors, shapes and unexpected pattern combinations. We find prints of faces as a key motive very cute.
I ove sezone su tu, iako sve stidljivije i u laganom povlačenju sa modnog trona. Ipak, pruge su našle način kako da ostanu u centru pažnje modne javnosti - postale su uspravne! Tako je, na proleće ćemo umesto vodoravnih nositi vertikalne pruge. They are still here, although more timid and slowly moving away from the fashion throne. However, stripes found their way to stay in the center of fashion attention – they have become upright! That’s it, in spring we will wear vertical instead of horisontal stripes.
Suno // JW Anderson // Tory Burch
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Peter Som // DVF // Chrisopher Kane
Jil Sander // no 21 // Unique for TopShop
FENDI // JW Anderson // Oscar de la Renta
Strong Ghost
Old Rose
Coffee Water
Sandalove
My Skin
Neutralne Nežne boje zauzeće bitno mesto i sledećeg proleća. Boja kože, zatim nijansa između bež i sive, kao i boja šećera biće one trendi nijanse za lenje tople dane. Najčešće se vezuju za lagane, prozračne materijale. Neutral Tones Soft colours will again take an important place next spring. Skin color, the shade between beige and gray, as well as the colour of sugar will be the trendy tones for hot summer days. They go well with light, airy materials.
Pure Mandarine
Star Blue
Electric Violet
Proper Spruce
Jarke I sledeće sezone nastavljamo sa color block trendom, ali ovoga puta boje preuzimamo iz bogatog kolornog kaleidoskopa prirode. Električno plava nastavlja dominaciju, mandarina naradžasta biće još popularnija, a intenzivna nijansa zelene – boja smreke, biće nova it nijansa. Blinding Next season we continue with color block trend, but this time the colors come from the rich color caleidoscope of nature. Electric blue continues its domination, mandarine orange will be even more popular, and the intensive shade of green – color of spruce, will be the new it shade.
Citrus Zest
Sweet Turquoise
Caribbean PM
Cinnamon Powder
New Sandal
Cinnamon Stick
Braon Proleće 2012. godine će definitivno obeležiti povratak smeđih nijansi. Čokolada, karamela, cimet, kafa... Ukusi tradicionalno vezivani uz hladne dane ovoga puta društvo će nam praviti i u letnjoj sezoni. BROWN Spring of year 2012 wll definitely be marked with the comeback of brown shades: chocolate, caramel, cinnamon, coffee. Flavors traditionally connected to cold days, this time will acompany us in the summer season.
Red Tomato
Ocean Side
Nomadic Desert
Foothils
Rokwood Amber
Afrika Moda često posuđuje dezene mistične Afrike, a sledeće sezone iskoristiće boje „crnog kontineta“. Boja kamena, zemlje, peska i beskrajnog okeana biće u centru modne pažnje. Ove nijanse svoje mesto našle su kao deo afričkih motiva i tribal uzoraka koje su dizajneri obilato koristili u svojim kolekcijama. Africa Fashion often borrows patterns from mystical Africa. Next season it will use colors of the „black continent“. Colors of rock, earth, sand and endless ocean will come to fashion attention. These tones found its place as part of African motives and tribal samples designers used a lot in their collections.
Darkroom
Rubinon
Bright Sun
Old Jade
My Coffee
Almond
Pearl Nude
Magnetic Magenta
Choco Love
Pure Sky
Karibi Ipak paleta Afrika nije jedina koja će inspirisati na putovanja. Tu je i sjajna paleta vrištećih čistih tonova kakve možemo naći na karipskim ostrvima. Rubin crvena, kristalna tirkizna, jarka žuta, boja žada. Ove nijanse će nam bez sumnje uveseliti leto! Caribbean Africa pallet is not the only one to inspire traveling. There is also a wonderful pallet of screaming pure tones we can find on the Caribbean: ruby red, crystal turquoise, strong yellow, jade. These tones will, without doubt, cheer up our summer!
Carousel Pink
Light Orchid
Lilac
Fuchsia Pink
Disco
Ružičasto Ova boja kao da ne odustaje. Panton je upravo boju cveća Orlovi nokti proglasio bojom 2011. godine, a ona nas ne napušta ni u 2012. godini. Blistava paleta ružičastih tonova našla je svoju primenu u bogatim floralnim dezenima koji su preplavili modne piste u Njujorku, Londonu, Milanu i Parizu. Pink This color just doesn`t quit. Pantone has just declared color of the flower Eagle nails the color of year 2011, and it will not leave us in the next year. The bright pallet of pink tones found its place in the rich designs all over catwalks of New York, London, Milan and Paris.
Shocking Pink
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Njenu odeću nose svetski trendseteri kao što su Ana Delo Ruso, Florens Velč, Diana Argon i Mišel Obama. Ove jeseni Roksanda Ilinčić se posvetila i malo širem tržištu. Naime, kreatorka se udružila sa britanskim prodajnim lancem Debenhams. Rezultat je mini kolekcija RI by Roksanda Ilinčić. Sve kreacije jasno nose potpis dizajnerke i pružaju dašak ženstvene i šik mode po pristupačnijim cenama. Trend-setters like Anna Dello Russo, Florence Welch, Dianna Argon and Michelle Obama wear her clothes. This autumn Roksanda Ilincic opened herself to a bit wider market. This designer joined British chain store Debenhams. The result is mini collection RI by Roksanda Ilinčić. All creations have a clear designer’s sign and give a splash of feminine and chic fashion for reasonable prices.
Ivana Pilja Pošto je veličanstvena izložba posvećena kreatoru Aleksander Mekvinu zatovrena u avgustu, modni svet sada ima priliku da pogleda odličnu retrospektivu velikog Iv Sen Lorena u Madridu. Radi se o ozbiljnoj zbirci kreacija dizajnera koji je umnogome promenio žensko oblačenje. Izložba je otvorena 6. oktobra u Fundacion Mapfre galeriji, a trajaće do januara 2012. godine. Ne propustite! After closing magnificent exibition dedicated to Alexander Mcquuen in August, fashion world now has a chance to see a great retrospective of Yves Saint Laurent in Madrid, a serious collection of creations of one of the designers that changed female clothing. Exibition is opened on 6th of October in Fundacion Mapfre gallery and it lasts until January 2012. Don’t miss it!
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Ivana Pilja se na srpskoj modnoj sceni pojavila krajem 2010. godine, a već je uspela da postane prepoznatljivo ime i da se upiše na spisak onih kreatora od kojih tek očekujemo mnogo. Njena prva kolekcija oduševila je kritiku, toliko da je Ivana postala ponosni vlasnik posebne nagrade Elle Fashion Award. Osim srpske, njene modele je, u okviru manifestacije Fashionclash, imala prilku da vidi i holandska publika. Piljine kolekcije odlikuje geometrija, zanimljive forme i minimalizam kada su u pitanju boje. Osim rada na prilično avangardnoj kolekciji sa sopstvenim potpisom, Pilja radi i kao kreator sportske konfekcije u
Jelena Karakaš
kompaniji Rang. Iako ove dve grane nemaju mnogo dodirnih tačaka, kreatorka tvrdi da joj svaka forma kreiranja izuzetno prija. O čemu smo još razgovarali sa mladom kreatorkom pročitajte u nastavku. Da li možeš nešto da nam kažeš o tvojoj saradnji sa Textilom? Moja saradnja sa Textilom traje već nekoliko godina. U skoro svakoj modnoj kući za koju sam radila koristili smo upravo materijale iz Textilove ponude. Njihova velika prednost u odnosu na ostale jeste to što idu korak napred sa trendovima i uvek su otvoreni za nove predloge i ideje. Ono što je jako bitno, a Textil lako uspeva da ostvari, jeste precizna procena
koja je to boja koja će preplaviti ulice našeg (sveta) grada. Kako bi opisala energiju i izgled osobe za koju ti kreiraš? Osobu za koju kreiram je najjednostavnije opisati kao svoju i drugačiju. Tvoje kreacije su prilično komplikovane i skoro da liče na skulpture. Da li ti je teško da pronađeš i ukrotiš materijale? Za skulpturalni efekat zaslužna je prvenstveno konstrukcija, koja je u slučaju mojih kreacija jako zahtevna. Materijal je uvek manji problem, potrebno je samo da bude veoma postojan i izdrži sva procese kojima postižem taj skulpturalni izgled.
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Spisateljica Carine Bivša urednica francuskog izdanja magazina Vogue, bacila se na nekoliko zanimljivih projekata, a jedan od njih jeste knjiga „Irreverent“. Radi se o foto zbirci od 384 strane koja sadrži najbolje momente njene trideset godina duge karijere. Tu su se našli najbolji i najsnažniji editorijali, ali i fotografije njenog partnera Kristijana Restoina. Pregršt dnevnih novosti iz mode, dizajna i lepote življenja potražite i na našoj facebook stranici TextilUzice
Ex Editor-in-Chief of French Vogue, has a couple of interesting projects, one of them being a book „Irreverent“. That is a photo collection on 384 pages, containing the best moments from her 30 years long career. There are the best and the strongest editorials, but also photographs of her partner Christian Restoin. Lots of daily news from fashion, design to beauty of life you can find on our facebook page TextilUzice
Textil u pozorištu Skica pre materijala ili materijal pre skice? Za mene, definitivno skica pre materijala. Put od skice do gotovog komada je nekad dug, a često podložan promenama. Tako da smatram da je uvek najbolje imati skicu kao dobru osnovu celokupnog koncepta kolekcije. Kada napokon znam kakav efekat želim da postignem, materijal se lako nađe. Da li odustaneš od modela kada shvatiš da fizički ne možeš da ga izvedeš do kraja ili si spremna na kompromise sa materijalima i detaljima? Uvek sam spremna na kompromise, u mom poslu kompromis je jako bitan. Kao što sam napomenula, put od skice do gotovog komada je podložan promenama i kompromis je jednostavno neophodan za uspeh. Radiš kao dizajner za jednu sportsku modnu kuću. Da li uspevaš da se izraziš i kroz jednostavne sportske forme? Naravno. Radim kao jedan od dizajnera brenda Rang, u kompaniji Planeta Sport. Iako ljudi smatraju da su te dve lnije koje radim nespojive, ja im ipak nalazim nešto zajedničko. To doživljavam kao izazov. U svojoj kolekciji se bavim dekonstrukcijom, a u sportskoj liniji se trudim da na što bolji način istaknem figuru kao i da naglasim ženstvenost. Smatram da dobar dizajner mora da poseduje moć prilagođavanja, kao i da oseća tržište. Da li osećaš pritisak druge kolekcije? Da li ćeš nastaviti da istražuješ formu bez eksperimentisanja sa bojama ili imaš nešto drugo na umu?
Možeš li nam otkriti inspiraciju za sledeću kolekciju? Polako počinjem da radim na svojoj drugoj kolekciji i mali pritisak postoji, to je normalno. Nastavljam da istražujem formu, ubaciću i neke nove elemente, ali ostajem odana svom stilu. Geometrija, minimalistički kao i dekonstrukcijski pristup kostimu su mi uvek bili najveći izazov. Inspiraciju ću ipak još neko vreme čuvati samo za sebe. Vrlo si popularna na internetu, pre svega na blogovima i tumblr sajtovima. Koliko ti to znači? Da li si zainteresovana za nove tehnologije? Blogovi su odličan način za promovisanje, jer su jako posećeni i popularni širom sveta tako da apsolutno podržavam nove tehnologije! Moram da priznam da su preko raznih modnih blogova ljudi iz celog sveta su primetili moj rad, i da, već sam ostvarila sam neke kontakte. Japan? Samo inspiracija ili možda i plan za budućnost? Japan je poslužio kao inspiracija za moju prvu kolekciju, a svakako će neki elementi japanske kulture pratiti i moje buduće kolekcije. Ono što ostaje konstanta jeste dekostrukcijski pristup kostimu kao elementarni deo mog stila. Kad smo kod budućnosti, gde vidiš svoje buduće mesto na svetskoj modnoj mapi? U Londonu, nadam se. - - - English version on page 12
Kompanija Textil rado podržava razne zanimljive umetničke projekte, pa je tako bila i deo predstave „Prokleta Avlija“ po delu Ive Andrića, a u režiji Nebojše Bradića. Predstava je posvećena obeležavanju pola veka od dodele Nobelove nagrade književniku Ivu Andriću. U koprodukciji tri teatra iz tri države: Kazališta Virovitica iz Hrvatske, Narodnog pozorišta iz Užica, Srbija, i Teatra Kabare iz Tuzle, Bosna i Hercegovina, ovaj jedinstveni projekat je okupio izuzetno kvalitetan umetnički tim. To nije bila prva saradnja kompanije Textil sa Narodnim Pozorištem iz Užica. Naša saradnja traje već godinama i zajedno stvaramo kostime i scenografiju koja doprinosi još većem uživanju publike u izvrsnim predstavama.
Textil company gladly supports different kinds of interesting art projects. It was part of the theatre show The Damned Yard based on a novel by Ivo Andrić, and directed by Nebojša Bradić. The show was dedicated to the 50th anniversary of Ivo Andrić winning the Nobel prize. The coproduction of three theatres from three countries: Kazalište Virovitica from Croatia, Narodno pozorište Užice, Serbia, and Teatar Kabare from Tuzla, Bosnia and Herzegovina, brought together a very high quality team of artists. It wasn’t the first time Textil collaborated with Narodno pozorište from Užice. Our collaboration lasts for years now, and together we make costumes and scenography that help greater enjoyment of the theatre audience.
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Na nedelji mode u Parizu imali smo priliku da vidimo prvu kolekciju kreatora Maniš Arore u ulozi kreativnog direktora modne kuće Pako Raban. Maniš je doneo interesantnu savremenu interpretaciju Raban haljina iz 1960. godine, koje su bile napravljene od metalnih ploča. Veštom igrom svetlucavih detalja i futurističkih elemenata Arora je u potpunosti opravdao svoju novu titulu. On the Paris Fashion Week we could see Manish Arore’s first collection as creative director in fashion house Paco Rabanne. Manish brought interesting contemporary interpretation of Rabanne’s dresses from 1960, made of metal panels. Arora completely justified his new title by showing crafty game of shiny details and futuristic elements.
Aleksandra Gočanin
Kontraverzni fotograf Teri Ričardson ove jeseni dospeo je u centar pažnje i ovog puta po sredi nije neki skandal. Ne, u pitanju je njegova knjiga fotografija „Mom Dad“. Povodom izdavanja, francuski koncept butik Kolet pripremio je posebnu Teri kolekciju. Tokom prve polovine oktobra u ponudi su bile lutke sa Ričardsonovim likom, karirane košulje, kockaste naočare, bejzbol kape, ali i plišane mede sa Terijevim likom. Controversial photographer Terry Richardson is again in the centre of attention this autumn, but this time not because of a scandal. It is about his book of photographs „Mom Dad“. Because of this, French concept boutique Collete made special Terry collection. In the first part of October there were Richardson look alike dolls, pleid shirts, cube glasses, baseball hats and teddy bears looking like Terry. Pregršt dnevnih novosti iz mode, dizajna i lepote življenja potražite i na našoj facebook stranici facebook.com/TextilUzice
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Kreatorka Aleksandra Gočanin se još za vreme studiranja kostimografije na Akademiji primenjenih umetnosti oprobala u industriji dečije odeće. Ipak, moda nije jedina Aleksandrina strast. Rado se bavi ilustracijama, grafičkim dizajnom i dizajnom enterijera, istražujući mogućnosti svoje mašte. Mlada kreatorka je i jedna od Textilovih saradnica, odgovorna za dizajn nekih od naših tkanina.
zamislite neke komade koji bi se od tog materijala mogli stvoriti? Dizajn tekstila je potpuno novo područje za mene i jako sam srećna što sam postala deo te priče. U procesu samog dizajniranja ne razmišljam o konkretnom odevnom predmetu koji će od njega nastati, ali čim sklopim sve elemente i boje i finaliziram dizajn same tkanine – istog trenutka počinjem da mislim o odeći koja bi od nje mogla da se sašije.
Dosta ste kreirali za decu. Da li su vam kreacije za mališane zanimljivije za kreiranje od onih za odrasle? Uvek se bolje osećam kad dizajniram za decu jer je prostor za igru mnogo veći. Sa bojama i dezenima koji su svojstveni dečijim kolekcijama nemoguće je ograničiti maštu. Kada je u pitanju dečija garderoba, nekako je cilj koji treba postići uvek isti. Sa druge strane, već duže vreme postoji trend da se energija modela za odrasle prenosi i na kolekcije za decu, pa tako uvek kad poželim mogu i tu dimenziju da uključim u kreativni proces.
Koliko su vam sami materijali bitni pri izradi kolekcija? Da li oni određuju pravac kolekcije ili se po skiciranju samo uklapaju u određene ideje? Jako su bitni, jer ako imate kvalitetnu tkaninu, dobro dizajniranu, u boji koja odgovara vašoj trenutnoj filozofiji, možete za kratko vreme da dobijete savršen odevni predmet koji ne zahteva komplikovanu formu krojenja jer je pola posla zapravo urađeno samim izborom materijala. Oni su meni uvek polazna tačka koja određuje i odevni predmet i njegovu formu.
Bavili ste se i dizajnom tekstila. Da li u tom procesu puštate masti na volju ili ipak na samom početku
Na čemu trenutno radite? Trenutno radim dečije kolekcije za predstojeće sezone, s tim što sam
Modna matematika
Saberite izvrsne pastelne kolačiće...
sa frizurom Brižit Bardo...
Jelena Karakaš
počela veliki deo sebe da poklanjam i poljima dizajna kojima sam se ranije bavila samo u slobodno vreme. Dizajniriranjem kataloga otkrivam svoje mesto u grafičkom dizajnu, a jako se dobro zabavljam i dizajniranjem enterijera, bez pretenzija da mi to postane full-time profesija. Šta vam je najčesće inspiracija za modele koje stvarate? Inspiriše me sve što me okružuje, ali u dizajnu garderobe posebno inspirativno mesto imaju materijali jer su oni klica svega. Ako bih baš morala da istaknem neko područje čiji se duh uvek provlači kroz moj dizajn, rekla bih da je to svet bajki i stripova, filtriran kroz prirodu, pre svega biljno i životinjsko carstvo. Možete li sebe zamisliti za 10 godina? Gde vidite svoje mesto na modnoj mapi? Nemam ambiciju da sebe i svoje ime izdignem na nivo medijske popularnosti. Međutim, volela bih da napravim brend koji je prepoznatljiv i samostalan, apsolutno slobodan da se izražava samo u skladu sa filozofijom koja je u njegovoj srži, bez potrebe da ima u vidu tuđe ideje i da se njima prilagođava. - - - English version on page 12 Jelena Karakaš
i dobićete novu Mulberry kolekciju.
Fenomeni>>>
Designed By Designed By je mladi modni koncept koji se bazira na kreacijama namenjenim poslovnim ženama. Namenjen je, pre svega, istočno evropskom tržištu. Iako postoji tek od 2009. godine, ovaj brend je i bez klasične modne promocije uspeo da pronađe svoj put do potrošača. O njemu nam priča Jovana Dlačić, kreatorka i jedna od vlasnica kompanije. Za početak bih te zamolila da čitaoce Textil Funzina upoznaš sa projektom Designed By, mladim, ali vrlo zanimljivim projektom. Designed By, brend osnovan 2009. godine, bazira se na konfekciji za poslovnu ženu, posebno za istočno evropski region. Naš dizajn studio i proizvodnja smešteni su u Beogradu, dok su nam kancelarije u Beogradu, Beču i Briselu. Trenutno imamo četiri Designed By radnje i dve komisione saradnje. Možeš li nam nešto reći i o saradnji sa kompanijom Textil? Kompanija Textil je zaista nešto jedinstveno na našem tržištu. Mi koristimo Textilove materijale još od prve kolekcije, iz više razloga. Prvo, postoji jako veliki izbor materijala, od prirodnih preko raznih mešavina, pa sve do potpuno novih savremenih materijala. Takođe, tu je ogroman spektar boja. Sledeća prednost jeste mogućnost poručivanja većih količina. I naravno, meni kao kreatoru najbitnije je to što tačno znam koji materijal kupujem i šta od njega mogu da očekujem. U svom dizajnu izbegavaš uzorke i radije se igraš formom nego bojama. Jednostavnost pre svega? Kada kreirate za određeni brend, morate u svakom momentu da pratite njegova pravila; sve sto dizajniram mora da šalje nedvosmislenu poruku- Designed By! Mi imamo utvrđen koncept u obradi naših modela i od toga ne smemo odstupati. Ipak, Designed By mi dozvoljava i da se igram klasičnim formama od kojih pravim jednu alternativniju konfekciju, a smele boje su tu da pomeraju granice. Designed By modeli izgledaju prilično udobno. Koliko ti je to bitno u procesu kreiranja?
Jelena Karakaš
Kombinacija dobrog kroja i dobrog materijala, bez izuzetka, daju udobnu kreaciju. Koje materijale najčešće koristiš kako bi to postigla? Mi, u Designed B, svoje modele baziramo najčešće na prirodnim materijalima, obično je u pitanju pamuk, ali i postoje i mešavine koje su takođe jako kvalitetne i zahvalne. Ono što izbegavamo su potpuno sintetički materijali. Kako reaguješ kada na uilci vidiš devojku koja nosi tvoj model? Odmah pomislim: sigurno je izašla iz svoje prelepe kancelarije, ima posao koji voli i odličnu platu, baš ona donosi bitne odluke i vlada svetom. Ništa manje od toga! Svi mi imamo pravo da idealizujemo. Designed By je imao interesantan eksperiment u Beču, isprobavali ste „plati koliko želiš“ koncept? „Plati koliko želiš“ koncept možete naći svuda širom Evrope u najrazličitijim delatnostima. Funkcioniše, i to dosta dobro. Mi smo šest meseci koristili taj koncept bez problema. Moram reći da je sistem poreza mnogo fleksibilniji u Austriji i legalno je koristiti ovaj koncept. U Srbiji je tako nešto nemoguće. Prestali smo sa tom praksom kad smo uvideli da mušterije plaćaju cenu koju smo i očekivali, a taj koncept nam je administrativno oduzimao dosta vremena. Lepo je znati da mušterije i kad imaju opciju da plate koliko žele plaćaju fer cenu. Dobro je za samopouzdanje saznanje da imate korektne cene. Bilo bi dobro kad bi svaka firma koristila ovaj koncept šest meseci da vidi kako stoji. Mi smo polozili test!
Flower Power I kroz modu se može mnogo naučiti o promenama na ekonomskom planu. Pošto je skoro ceo svet ušao u period recesije, to se odrazilo i na modne piste, pre svega po pitanju boja i dezena. Boje su postale umerene, zagasite, dok su upadljivi motivi skoro proterani sa modnih revija. Krojevi su postali razumniji i vodilo se računa da se kolekcije baziraju na kvalitetnim, klasičnim komadima. Sada imamo dokaz da je svetskoj ekonomiji definitivno bolje! Kreatori su se odvažili i posle prošlogodišnjeg color block trenda poigrali su se jakim dezenima u upadljivim bojama. Pre svih tu je floralni motiv kojim nam nedvosmisleno poručuje da ćemo konačno procvetati. Nekoliko modnih kuća je ovaj dezen koristilo kao total look kroz čitave prolećne kolekcije. Tako je nova kraljica dezena, grčka kreatorka Meri Katranzou, prikazala potpuno floralnu kolekciju, a cvetnu temu ispratilan je i kroz posebnu instalaciju od pupljaka umesto piste. I Erdem Moralioglu je u svih 34 prikazanih modela provukao cvetni motiv
Jelena Karakaš
„slikajući ga“ u plavoj, nežno žutoj i bež boji. Jedna od revija o kojoj se mnogo pričalo bila je i ona sestara Kejt i Lore Malvi za Rodarte. Naime, one su kao okosnicu svoje kolekcije „pozajmile“ rad velikog slikara Vinsenta van Goga. Ne radi se o asocijaciji, već o bukvalnoj tekstilnoj interpretaciji Vincentovih radova. Sada imamo „Suncokrete“ i „Irise“ kao ukrojene haljine i komplete sa pantalonama. Ipak, one nisu jedine koje su u potrazi za floralnom inspiracijom posegnule u umetnost. Njujorški dizajner Prabal Gurung svoju kolekciju izgradio je na radu japanskog fotografa Nobujoši Arakija, i to pre svega na seriji „Sensual Flower“. Francuski slikar Pjer-Žozef Reduté i njegove romantične ružičaste ruže poslužile su kao dezen kreatoru Dries Van Notenu. Naša je preporuka da se sledeće sezone okušate u spajanju nespojivih cvetnih uzoraka. Kako su nam dizajneri pokazali, izgleda da je vreme za jedan pravi cvetni karneval!
U kom smeru planirate da razvijate Designed By? Po našim planovima, do sada je već trebalo da budemo dosta snažniji brend, ali nas je nažalost ekonomska situacija usporila. Tako da sada radimo što i većina kompanija, čekamo bolje vreme. Ali ne spavamo, koristimo ovo malo teže vreme na dobar način, bavimo se razvijanjem mnoštva novih proizvoda. - - - English version na page 12
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Designed By Designed By is a young fashion concept based on creations for business women. It targets, before all, Eastern European market. Even though it exists only since 2009, this brand has, without any formal fashion promotion, succeded in finding its way to consumers. Jovana Dlačić, creator and one of the owners of the company, is telling us about this brand. First of all, I would like you to introduce our readers to the Designed By project. Designed By is a brand founded in year 2009. focused on confection for business women, especially for Eastern European region. Our design studio and production are located in Belgrade, and our offices are in Belgrade, Vienna and Bruxelles. At the moment we have four Designed By shops and two comission stores. Can you tell us something about your colaboration with Textil company. Textil company is something really unique on our market. We use their materials since our first collection for multiple reasons. First of all, there is a huge choice of materials, from natural, to different blends, to completely new modern materials. Also, there is an enourmous colour spectrum. Next advantage is the possibility of ordering greater amounts of materials. And of course, to me as a creator the most important thing is that I know exactly what material I`m buying and what I can expect from it. You avoid using samples in your design and instead of colours you rather play with form. Simplicity above all? When you create for a certain brand, in every momenet you have to follow its rules; everything I design has to have a clear message - Designed By! We have a definite concept for the way we treat our models and we mustn’t deviate from it. Still, Designed By allows me to play with classic forms which I transform to a more alternative collection, and bold colours are there to move borders. Designed By creations seem to be very comfortable. How important is that in the creation process? Combination of good tailoring and good materials lead to a comfortable creation without any exceptions. What are the materials you prefere for that purpose? At Designed By we base our creations on natural materials, usually cotton, but there are also high quality blends that are very thankful for manipulation. We are avoiding completely cynthetic materials. Designed By had an interesting experiment in Vienna, you have tried Pay-what-you-want concept? Pay-what-you-want concept is something you can find all over Europe in all different fields. It works quite well. We have been using it for six months without a problem. I must say that the tax system in Austria is much more flexible and it is legal to use this concept. Something like that is impossible in Serbia. We have stopped this practice when we realised that the costumers are paying as much as we expected them to, and the concept was administratively demanding. It is nice to know that costumers pay a fair price even if they have another option. It is also good for your confidence to know that you have good prices. It would be good if every company used this concept for six moths to see where it stands. We have passed the test! In which direction do you plan to develop Designed By? Acording to our plans, we should have become a stronger brand by now, but unfortunately the economical situation has slown us down. So now we are doing the same thing the majority of companies are doing - we are waiting for the better times. But we are not sleeping, we are using these hard times in a good way by developing plenty of new products.
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Trends by Textil As you are already used to, between two editions of Textil fanzine our design studio is running across all meridians to collect the latest news and inspiration. But before all to read trends so you could be the first to find out what we will wear – tomorrow! We decided to bring you closer to the process of creation. How are the designs you crave for made, how designers choose their materials and what are they dreaming about? Because, we know that well, fashion is made of dreams. Therefore we talked to Serbian designers who collaborate with Textil company for couple of years already. There are those already recognized, like sisters Proković, but there are also those in the beginning of their road. Of course, we will let you know about current trends, fashion tendencies and guidelines for the season spring/summer 2012. We have been watching and analyzing not only fashion, but design, architecture, theatre and film. It’s clear that fashion world is polarized in two parts: one of it being return to minimalism, while the other is complete opposite – unusual, radical, glamorous. We could describe materials for the next season as simple and luxurious. They are soft, nice, smooth. Season will be marked by a philosophy “nothing is too female, nor too male”, what will give absolute unisex trend. Talking about colors, there are several fashion directions. Those who don’t like to take risks will follow neutral beige tones, as well as brown which is coming back on top again. The radical ones will go for eye-catching pieces and Caribbean colors or intensive colors of nature. One thing that will be used by everyone no matter what color palette they chose is a touch of metal. Creations will be shiny, literary speaking. Golden and silver will be there as accents, effects and details, giving an impression of extreme glamour and femininity. While you are reading these lines, we are already on the way to season autumn/winter 2012/13. Cruel fashion clock is ticking. To stay in trend between the seasons, follow the latest fashion news on our web site www.textilue.rs Jelena Pavlović, creative director
Ivana Pilja Ivana Pilja appeared on Serbian fashion scene at the end of year 2010, and she has alredy become a recognizable name, and has found herself on the list of fashion designers from which we expect a lot.Her first collection thrilled the critics, so much that Ivana became the proud winner of the special Elle Fashion Award. Beside serbian, the audience in Netherlands on Fashionclash show could aslo see her models. Geometry, interesting shapes, minimalism when it comes to colors, are caracteristics of her collections. And beside working on pretty avantgarde collections with her own sign, Pilja is also working as a sports readywear designer in Rang company. Although these two fields don’t have too much in common, the designer claims that any form of designing feels good. About other things we talked about with this young designer read in the interview below. Can you tell us something about your collaboration with Textil? My collaboration with Textil lasts a couple of years already. In almost every fashion house I worked for, we used materials from Textil’s offer. Their big advantage, compared to the others, is that they go one step ahead with trends and are always open for new suggestions and ideas. What is really important, and Textil easily manages it, is precise estimation of which color will cover the streets of our (world) city. How would you describe the energy and looks of the person you design for? Person I design for is most easily described as someone who belongs to herself and who is different. Your creations are pretty complicated and almost look like sculptures. Is it hard to find and tame the materials neccessary to achieve the desirable effect? Sculpture effect is about construction, which is in the case of my designs very demanding. Material is always a smaller problem. All I need is for it to be durable and to resist all processes needed for the sculptural look. Sketching before material or material before sketching?
Aleksandra Gočanin Fashion designer Aleksandra Gočanin already had her beginnings in children’s clothing industry during costume design studies on Academy of Applied Arts. This young fashion designer is also one of Textil collaborates, responsible for design of some of our materials. You did a lot of children clothing designs. Do you find designing for kids more interesting than designing for adults? I always feel better when I design for kids because there is much more space for playing. With colours and patterns specific for kids’ collections, it is impossible to limit your imagination. Somehow, there is always the same goal to reach about children clothing. On the other hand, there has been for a while this tendency to transfer energy connected to adults’ fashion on kids’ collections, so anytime I wish I can include that dimension also into creative process. You also did textile design. When you do that, do you let your imagination free or you first think of piece of clothes that could be made with that material? Textile design is completely new field for me and I am very happy to be part of that story. In designing process I don’t think about specific piece of clothes that will be made with it, but as soon as I connect all elements and colors and finish design of the material – at the same moment I start to think about clothes that could be created of it. How important are materials in creating a new collection? Do materials determinate direction or they just fit into already sketched ideas?
They are very important, because with highquality material, well designed, in color that suites your philosophy at the moment, you can get perfect piece of clothes that doesn’t require complicated tailoring, because half of the job is done just by choosing the material. To me they are always starting point for clothes and their form. What are you currently working on? Right now I’m working on kids’ collections for upcoming seasons. But at the same time I started to approach fields of design that used to be only a pass-time. By designing catalogues I explore my position in graphic design, and I also have a lot of fun in interior design, without pretensions to make it my full-time job. Where do you find inspiration for models you create? I am inspired by everything that surrounds me, but in fashion design materials have a special place, because they are the seed for everything that grows out of them. If I had to point out one field that constantly shows up in my design, it would be the world of fairy-tales and comic books through filter of nature, kingdom of herbs and animals. Can you imagine yourself in 10 years? Where do you see your place on a fashion map? I don’t have ambitions to make my name popular in media. However, I would like to make a brand that is recognizable and autonomous, absolutely free to express itself only in harmony with its own philosophy, with no need to take into account other ideas and adjust to them.
For me, deffinitely sketching before materials. The way from a sketch to the final piece is sometimes long, and often with many changes. So, I think it’s always good to have a sketch as a base for the whole collection concept. When I finally realize which effect I want to achieve, material is easy to find. You design for one sports fashion house, do you manage to express yourself even through simple sport forms? Of course. I work as one of the designers for the Rang brand, in Planeta Sport company. Although people think that these two things I work on are incompatible, I always find something that they have in common. I see it as a challenge. In my collection I deal with deconstruction, while in sports line I try to emphasize figure as good as I can and to put an accent on femininity. I think that a good designer must have the ability to adjust, as well as to have a sense for the market. Do you feel the pressure of the second collection? Will you continue to explore form without experimenting with colors or you have something else on your mind? Could you tell us something about the inspiration for your next collection? I slowly begin to work on my second collection, and small pressure exists, that’s normal. I continue to explore form, I will include some new ellements, but I remain loyal to my own style. Geometry, minimalistic as well as deconstrustive approach to costume have always been my biggest challenge. But for some time I will keep the inspiration just for myself. You are very popular online, especially on blogs and tumblr. How much does that mean to you? Are you interested in new technologies? Blogs are great way for promotion because they are very popular and a lot of people see them, so I absolutely support new technologies! I have to admit that my work has been noticed all around the world through blogs, and yes, I alredy have some contacts. Talking about future, where do you see your future place of world fashion map? In London, I hope.
Flower Power Much can be learned through fashion about economic changes. The whole world has entered a period of recession and this was visible on the catwalks, especially on colors and patterns. Colors became moderate, tawny, while the bold motives were almost banned from fashion shows. Designs were more reasonable and collections were based on quality, classical pieces. Now we have proof that the world economy is getting better! Creators are more brave since the last year`s color block trend and they are playing with strong colorful paterns. Floral motif before all tells us that we will finally bloom. A number of fashion names used this pattern as a total look through out whole spring collection. The new queen of patterns, Greek designer Mary Katrantzou, showed a completely floral collection, and this motif is also visible in the special flower bud installation instead of the runway. Erdem Moralioglu also used this motif in all 34 creations in blue, soft yellow and beige. One of the shows everyone talked about was Kate and Laura Mulleavy`s show for Rodarte. They borrowed themes from famous paintor Vincent Van Gogh. It is not the question of association, but a literal transcription of his work in textile. We now have Sunflowers an Irises as dresses and suits.Still, they are not the only ones in quest for a floral inspiration that have reached out to find it in art. New York designer Prabal Gurung based his collection on the work of a Japanese photographer Nobuyoshi Araki, especially his series Sensual Flower. French painter Pierre– Joseph Reduté and his romantic pink roses were an inspiration to designer Dries Van Noten. it is time for a real flower carnival!