Suvannaphoum

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CONTENTS

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28 12 18 20 22

COLORS OF THE CITY CALENDAR ART EXHIBITIONS ARCHITECT

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24 SUVANNAPHOUM FEATURE THE LAND OF A THOUSAND PAGODAS A TRIP TO BAGAN

28 CULTURE PRIOR TO THE ART OF PRINTING

30 FEATURE STORIES BEHIND THE WALLS THE JOURNEY OF MURAL PAINTINGS

30 38

31 TRAVEL FEATURE STORIES OF EASTERN LANNA A WORTHWHILE TRIP TO SEE MURAL PAINTINGS IN NAN

42 AROUND US BACK STREET ARTISTS

46 THAI TALKS 日本の板目木版画とポルノ

50 GIFT IDEAS STREET IN STYLE

52 54 56 60 62 66 68 70

SLEEP DINING TEST TASTE RECIPE SHOPPING GOLF REVIEW CHECK IT OUT BUDGET HOTEL DIRECTORY

SEE GREATER CHIANG MAI MAP NEXT TO PAGE 48

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C REDITS

CONTRIBUTORS PANUPONG LAOHASOM Ajarn Panupong is the Head of Thai Arts Department, Faculty of Fine Arts, Chiang Mai University. He has taken long time to research mural paintings and has kindly helped us provide much more information on murals in FEATURE.

Publisher Sor Siri Suvannaphoum Co. Ltd. President Dr. Anuchit Ruksomboondee Consultants Chongchet Siri, Rachen Intawong, Wattana Autachaiwat and Assoc. Prof. Nakarate Rungkawat

Editor in Chief Adithep Nuamcherm Consultant to Editor in Chief Jirakrit Sirithanawat Secretary to Managing Director & Event Organizer Pakin Thanutrapong

Editor Jirat Prasertsup Sub-editor Adam Lynton Japanese Editor & Translator Mayumi Kashiwa Art Director & Photo Editor Kriangkrai Chaimanat Graphic Designers Thodsaphon Ninsin, Warawut Thichina and Sathaporn Kongyoo

Sales & Marketing Director Alisa Sompong Sales & Advertising Kanyarat Fongchan Accounting & Finance Nutthaya Patthamachaiyant Assistant to Accounting & Finance Nataya Pitida Assistant to Accounting & Customer Service Siriwat Ketmek Intern Naruepakorn Manewan

SOMRIT HAIKUM Somrit Haikum is the President of Chiang Mai Guide Association. This issue, he contributed the article on Bagan attractions in SUVANNAPHOUM FEATURE. PICHAI BOONCOOMYOU Pichai Booncoomyou or Kobby1 is a graffiti writer and street artist who has introduced many interesting street culture to Chiang Mai. He contributed the graffiti mural in this issue’s cover. Contact him at http:// kobby1.exteen.com/.

FOR ADVERTISING Please contact 053 810811, 08 5694 4123 and 08 1530 5185 E-mail: alisa.sp8@gmail.com (Alisa) and nobita_pcm@hotmail.com (Nobita)

Office Address

Tel. Fax Website E-mail

Sor Siri Suvannaphoum Co. Ltd. 119/48 Moo 5, Tambon Suthep Muang district, Chiang Mai 50200 0 5381 0801 0 53 810811 www.svpmagazine.com svp@svpmagazine.com http://twitter.com/svpmag www.portfolios.net/profile/svpmag www.facebook.com/svpmagazine

PASSPORT TO SUVANNAPHOUM VOL.10 NO.6 JUNE 2011

ABOUT THE COVER

Graffiti Writer Pichai Booncoomyou together with our team designed and created the contemporary graffiti mural of a Lanna couple which is adapted from the renowned mural painting in Wat Phumin, Nan province. Taken at the deserted area behind Suriwong Book Center.

THE KING’S FEATURE . ăƒŻă‚¤ăƒłç‰šé›† Text: Passport to Suvannaphoum Photo: Taken from the mural painting at Wat Buddha Ratana Starn, Royal Palace

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eing  the  world’s  longest  serving  king  with  over  60  years  on  the  throne,  His  Majesty  the  King  Bhumibol  is  very  intelligent  in  science  and  art;Íž  he  is  also  a  great  king  who  reins  the  country  with  virtue.  Though  there  have  been  PDQ\ JUHDW ÂżOPV DQG SURJUDPV DERXW ZKDW WKH NLQJ KDV GRQH IRU KLV EHORYHG SHRSOH DQG FRXQWU\ WKH PXUDO SDLQW-­ ings  at  Wat  Buddha  Rattana  Starn  in  the  Royal  Palace,  Bangkok,  illustrate  them  beautifully.  7KH PXUDO SDLQWLQJV DUH ORFDWHG EHWZHHQ WKH ZLQGRZV inside  the  ubosot RI WKH WHPSOH 7KH )LQH $UWV 'HSDUWPHQW was  in  charge  of  narrating  the  history  of  Rattanakosin  and  the  valuable  duties  of  the  King,  using  ancient  techniques  WR FUHDWH WKH ÂżQH PXUDOV Wat  Buddha  Ratana  Starn  was  established  by   Phrabat  Somdet  Phra  Chomklao  Chao  Yu  Hua  (Rama  IV)  around  one  hundred  years  ago.  King  Rama  IV  asked  WKH UR\DO SDLQWHUV WR SDLQW WKH PXUDOV DURXQG ZDOOV LQVLGH WKH WHPSOH GHSLFWLQJ VWRULHV DERXW WKH KLVWRU\ RI 3KUD  %XGGKD %XWVD\DUDWWDQD YLVLWLQJ 5DWWDQDNRVLQ 'XULQJ World  War  II,  Thailand  was  attacked  and  a  few  bombs  hit  WKH 5R\DO 3DODFH GDPDJLQJ WKH QRUWK ZDOO RI WKH WHPSOH $IWHU WKH ZDU UR\DO RIÂżFHUV UHQRYDWHG WKH WHPSOH DQG SDLQWHUV FUHDWHG QHZ PXUDO SDLQWLQJV ZKHUH ROG PXUDOV KDG EHHQ GDPDJHG $W WKDW WLPH WKH SDLQWHUV SDLQWHG WKH UR\DO GXWLHV RI WKH .LQJ $QDQGD 0DKLGRO 5DPD 9,, DQG %KXPLERO $GXO\DGHM 5DPD ,; GXULQJ Âą LQ D  FRQWHPSRUDU\ VW\OH ,Q +LV 0DMHVW\ WKH .LQJ FKDQJHG WKH SDLQWLQJV RQ WKH VSDFHV EHWZHHQ WKH ZLQGRZV WR FRQIRUP WR WKH SDLQWLQJV DERYH WKH ZLQGRZV 7KH QHZ SDLQWLQJVÂś WKHPH was  therefore  changed  to  the  history  of  Rattanakosin  era,  Chakri  dynasty,  using  the  same  technique  for  ancient  SDLQWLQJV ZLWK SRZGHU FRORUV The  King  also  ordered  that  the  murals  in  Wat  Buddha  Rattana  Starn  should  be  realistic  and  the  stories  authentic;Íž  FORWKHV VLWXDWLRQV FHUHPRQLHV LPSRUWDQW SHUVRQV  DSSOLDQFHV IDFLOLWLHV DQG PRUH KDG WR EH XS WR GDWH RQ WKH PXUDO VLWHV SDLQWHUV IURP WKH )LQH $UWV 'HSDUWPHQW FUHDWHG WKH SDLQWLQJV VWDUWLQJ LQ )HEUXDU\ DQG ÂżQDOO\ ÂżQLVKLQJ LQ 0DUFK

7KH PRVW LPSRUWDQW VFHQH RI WKH PXUDO LV RQ WKH th  SLFWXUH ZKLFK LOOXVWUDWHV WKH SHULRG ZKHQ +LV 0DMHVW\ WKH .LQJ %KXPLERO DVFHQGHG WR WKH WKURQH RQ th 0D\ DW the  Royal  Palace.  ăƒŠă‚żăƒŠă‚šă‚żăƒźăƒłäť?ĺŻşă ŽĺŁ ç”ťâˆ’ĺ›˝çŽ‹ă Žĺ¤šć§˜ă Şĺ›˝ĺ‹™ă Œć??ă ‹ă‚Œă &#x;çľľ â€ƒä¸–ç•Œă §ćœ€ă‚‚é•ˇă „ďź–ďź?ĺš´ă Žĺ?›丝ă€ ăƒ–ăƒ&#x;ăƒœăƒŤĺ›˝çŽ‹ă Żă€ ç§‘ĺ­Śă ¨čŠ¸čĄ“㠍㠨㠌ă‚‚ĺ„Şă‚Œă &#x; ć‰?čƒ˝ă‚’ă ŠćŒ ă Ąă Žĺ ‰大㠪ĺ›˝çŽ‹ă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ĺ›˝çŽ‹ă Œĺ›˝ć°‘ă‚„ă‚żă‚¤ă Žĺœ&#x;ĺœ°ă Ťă “ă‚Œ㠞㠧㠍ćˆ? ă —é ‚ă ’ă &#x;多ă ?㠎漭縞ă ŒçŽ‹厎ĺ†…ă Ťă ‚ă‚‹ăƒŠă‚żăƒŠă‚šă‚żăƒźăƒłäť?ĺŻşă ŽĺŁ ç”ťă Ťć??ă ‹ă‚Œă Śă „ る。 ă “㠎寺㠯ç´„ďź‘ďź?ďź?ĺš´ĺ‰?ă Ťĺťşă Śă‚‰ă‚Œă€ ăƒŠăƒžçŽ‹ďź”ä¸–ă Œ寺㠍äť?ć§˜ă ŒăƒŠă‚żăƒŠă‚łăƒźă‚ˇ ăƒłă‚’訪ă‚Œă &#x;ć­´ĺ?˛ă‚’書㠋㠛ă &#x;ă Žă Œĺ§‹ă žă‚Šă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ďź‘ďź™ďź™ďź™ĺš´ă Ťç?žĺœ¨ă Žĺ›˝çŽ‹ă Œć–° ă —ă ?ć??ă ?ă ‹ă ˆă‚żăƒŠă‚łăƒźă‚ˇăƒłć™‚䝣ă€ ăƒ ăƒŁă‚ŻăƒŞçŽ‹ćœ?ă Žć­´ĺ?˛ă‚’〠ĺ?¤äťŁă ŽćŠ€čĄ“を用㠄㠪 ă Œă‚‰ăƒŞă‚˘ăƒŞă‚šăƒ†ă‚Łăƒƒă‚Żă Ťć??ă ‹ă ›ă &#x;。é‡?čŚ ă ŞĺŁ ç”ťă Žă‚ˇăƒźăƒłă Żďź—ćžšç›Žă Žĺ›˝çŽ‹ă ŒçŽ‹ä˝? ă Ťĺ°ąă ‹ă‚Œă &#x;ďź?ĺš´ďź•ćœˆďź•ć—Ľă Žçľľă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚

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SAWAT DII . サワディー

6$:$7 ',, サワディー

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DYLQJ UHVHDUFKHG PXUDO SDLQWLQJV GHSLFWLQJ WKH OLIHVW\OHV RI DQFLHQW SHRSOH DQG %XGGKLVW IDEOHV LQ &KLDQJ 0DL %DQJNRN DQG $\XWWKD\D IRU WKLV PRQWK¶V LVVXH , QRWLFHG PDQ\ LPDJHV RI WRSOHVV ZRPHQ ,Q WKH SDVW WKHUH ZDV DOPRVW QR HVFDSLQJ WKH KHDW VR ERWK PHQ DQG ZRPHQ ZRXOG JR WRSOHVV ZKLFK LV ZK\ PDQ\ WUDGLWLRQDO VFXOSWXUHV SDLQWLQJV DQG RWKHU DUWV LQ 7KDLODQG IHDWXUH WRSOHVV ZRPHQ VXFK DV .LQDUHH LQ P\WKRORJ\ PHUPDLGV 3KL 6XD 6DPXW DQG W\SLFDO villagers, and none have a hint of obscenity. It is thus extremely irritating that the Culture 0LQLVWU\ FRQVLVWHQWO\ FHQVRU HYHQWV 79 SURJUDPV DQG movies that feature nudity. Though there are rating systems and watersheds to deal with the content of WKH SURJUDPV WKH DQQR\LQJ PRVDLF FHQVRUV DSSHDU LQ DOFRKRO GULQNLQJ VFHQHV WR FRYHU XS JXQV DQG ZRPHQ¶V EUHDVWV 2I FRXUVH VRPH RI WKH FHQVRUVKLS LV ZDUUDQWHG but all too often it is done without any need and it comes across as ridiculous, such as when Shizuka from the 'RUDHPRQ FDUWRRQ KDG KHU EUHDVWV FHQVRUHG

5HFHQWO\ VRPH SHRSOH ULGLFXORXVO\ FRPSODLQHG WR WKH Ministry about the Kinaree characters they use on their RI¿FLDO ZHEVLWH DV WKH\ DUH WRSOHVV DQG XQFHQVRUHG 6RRQ after, the Kinarees were removed from the website. If WKH RI¿FLDOV DW WKH 0LQLVWU\ KDYH VXFK ZHLUG DQG VWXSLG VWDQGDUGV ZH PD\ ¿QG WKDW RQH GD\ WKH\ FRPH WR WKH WHPSOHV DQG FHQVRU WKH WRSOHVV ZRPHQ LQ WKH PXUDOV Jirat Prasertsup, Editor 古代の人々の生活や仏教寓話を描いた壁画には、多くの女性の トップレスの絵が描かれている。昔は暑さから女性も男性もトップ レスで、わいせつな意味は持たない。文化省はテレビ番組や映画に 出てくる銃や喫煙、飲酒、 ヌード要素のあるシーンを一貫して過敏す ぎるほどモザイクセンサーで隠す。もちろんいくつかは正当である が、 ドラえもんの静香ちゃんの胸がセンサーで隠されているのを見 たときには馬鹿らしく思われた。最近では愚かな人々が公式ウェブ サイトにトップレスのキナレ絵を用いていることに対して省に抗議 した。 このような馬鹿な基準なら、いつかお寺の絵もセンサーで隠 されるのかもしれない。

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COLORS OF THE CITY

New Chiang Mai Senator

36th Anniversary of Charity For Chiang Mai

Sarawut Saetiew, President of Chiang Mai Tourism Business Association, together with the board members of the association, congratulated Dr. Watchara Tantranont, Honorary Consul of Korea in Chiang Mai, for his appointment as new Chiang Mai Senator.

ML Preeyaphan Sridhavaj, Honor Consul of Peru in Chiang Mai, held the 36th Anniversary Charity for Chiang Mai at the Grand Ballroom, the Empress Hotel due to she was appointed to be the Chiang Mai Senator.

Chiang Mai Best Deal

Muslim Lanna Fair

Tourism Authority of Thailand organized a press release launching the website ‘www.chiangmaibestdeal.com’ at Jong Kham Convention, Rati Lanna Hotel Chiang Mai.

Surapong Pongdejkhajorn, Secretary of Industrial Minister, presided over the opening of Muslim Lanna Fair at Chiang Mai Hall, Central Plaza Chiang Mai Airport.

The Seminar of Beijing – Chiang Mai Tourism Business Development

Royal Flora Expo returns

6QWTKUO #WVJQTKV[ QH 6JCKNCPF $GKLKPI 1HĂŒEG invited tour agencies from China to observe the tourism markets in Chiang Mai, plus organized a seminar to develop their business at Le Meridien Hotel, Chiang Mai.

Jirakorn Kosaisawee, Director General of the Department of Agriculture, and ML Panadda Diskul, Chiang Mai Governor, held a press conference about VJG 4Q[CN (NQTC 'ZRQ CV ) Ă?QQT %GPVTCN 2NC\C Chiang Mai Airport. The expo is expected to be held from 9th November 2011 - 15th February 2012 at Ratchapruek Garden.

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COLORS OF THE CITY . 街の色彩

Chiang Mai Golf Festival 2011

Sombat Kuruphan, the Permanent Secretary of the Tourism and Sports Ministry, and Wichai Srikuan, Chairman of Tourism Authority of Thailand, presided over the ‘Chiang Mai Golf Festival 2011’ at Alpine Golf Resort Chiang Mai.

Press Conference Singha Corporate Golf Challenge 2011 Woranon Samkoset, CEO of Muang Kaew Golf Club, together with alliances held a press conference regarding the Singh Corporate Golf Challenge at Chiang Mai Highland Golf and Spa Resort.

Antinori Wine Maker Diner @ Le Meridien Chiang Mai Jirakorn Kosaisawee, Director General of the Le Meridien Hotel Chiang Mai organized ‘Antinori Wine Maker Dinner - Longtable 07’ with a variety of luxury wines and a friendly party.

AD GOFT FESTIVAL

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COLORS OF THE CITY

Grand Opening Robinson Chiang Rai

Samui Clean Up Day

Chiang Rai Governor Somchai Hatayatunti presided over the grand opening of Robinson Chiang Rai with board members of the Robinson Group.

Bangkok Airways and traders in Koh Samui Island JGNRGF ENGCP WR VJG KUNCPF CHVGT VJG NCVGUV Ă?QQFU VQ welcome back tourists.

AIS Campaign for the strong-willed

Opening The Pizza Company @ Central Plaza Chiang Rai

‘San Rak’ project from AIS held a campaign for determined persons at the Center of Juvenile Training, Region 7, Chiang Mai. The campaign was organized to encourage children in the center to start their lives again.

CPN managing board congratulated Andy Holman, the Deputy Chairman of Pizza Company, on the opening of The Pizza Company at Central Plaza Chiang Rai.

Tanaporn Clinic Exclusive Workshop

Press Conference SGP CNG Pick Up

Tanaporn Clinic held an exclusive health and beauty workshop on the 2nd floor Panna Plaza, Nimmanhaemin Soi 6.

Chanasilp Motor Co. Ltd. launched ‘SGP CNG 2KEM 7RÂż Âź VJG ĂŒTUV %0) HQT RKEM WRU C PGY CNVGTPCVKXG energy-saving vehicle.

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ă‚ŤăƒŹăƒłăƒ€ăƒź

CALENDAR

Now - 5th JUNE

CITY PILLAR WORSHIP CEREMONY Venue: Wat Chedi Luang, Chiang Mai

An ancient Lanna festival in Chiang Mai at Wat Chedi Luang, home to the ‘Pillar of the City’: a tall pole used in ancient Thai fertility rites. The ceremony will be followed by a fair at the temple. For more information Tel. 0 5381 4119

25th - 26th June

FHON PHI CEREMONY TO WORSHIP ANCIENT HOUSES’ SPIRITS Venue: The Center for the Promotion of

Arts and Culture, Chiang Mai University The Center for the Promotion of Arts and Culture with theDepartment of Thai Arts, the Faculty of Fine Arts, CMU, will organize the traditional spiritual dance ceremony to pay homage the ancestor spirits who take care of the ancient houses in the Center for the Promotion of Arts and Culture near Ton Phayom Market during 25th - 26th June, 2011. For more information Tel. 0 5394 3626, 0 5394 3629

30th JUNE - 3rd JULY

PANTOMIME IN BANGKOK

Venue: Centerpoint Play House, VJ �QQT %GPVTCN 9QTNF $CPIMQM See a professional and fun-filled pantomime show performed by Japanese, German and Thai artists such as Guri Guri Girls (Japan), Metroccolis (Germany), Babymime (Thailand) and more. Tickets are 700 – 1,400 Baht at www.thaiticketmajor.com For more information Tel. 0 2262 3456

9th - 16th JUNE

PHRATHAT SI CHOMTHONG BATHING CEREMONY

Venue: Wat Phra That Si Chomthong Temple, Chom Thong district, Chiang Mai Wat Phrathat Si Chomthong is one of the most important temples in Chiang Mai and is hugely respected by local people. There will be a ceremony to worship the pagoda, or ‘Phrathat’, of the temple by bathing it according to an ancient Lanna ceremony. A temple fair will also be put on during the week. For more information Tel. 0 5324 8604

Now - 15th June

LEVI’S 501 MAN SEARCH – TOUGH AS YOUR SPIRIT

Venue: Robinson throughout the country LEVI’S jeans is searching smart guys aged between 16 – 30 years who are at least 170 centimeters tall for being new models. Those who are interested can send aplications to Robinson Chiang Mai, Hat Yai, Khon Kaen and Future Park Rangsit, Bangkok from now until 15th June and the winners will be announced on 2nd July 2011 at Central Plaza Airport Chiang Mai. The winner will be awarded 200,000 Baht and will be the model of IMAGE, MEN’S HEALTH and VOLUME magazines. For more information www.facebook.com/levis.thailand

Now - 30th JUNE

CHIANG MAI GOLF FESTIVAL

Venue: 12 leading golf courses in Chiang Mai and Lamphun Chiang Mai province invites golfers to participate in this special golf festival which boasts plenty of promotions, including 800 Baht for green fees at every leading course in Chiang Mai and Lamphun. For more information Tel. 0 5324 8604

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ă‚˘ăƒźăƒˆă‚¨ă‚­ă‚ˇăƒ“ă‚¸ăƒ§ăƒł

ART EXHIBITIONS

NOW - 28th JUNE

THE 3rd ART THESIS EXHIBITION

Venue: 6JG 3WGGP )CNNGT[ $CPIMQM

NOW - 13th JUNE

CHANGE THIS WORLD POSTER EXHIBITION

Venue: 96( %CHG )CNNGT[ 5WMJWOXKV $CPIMQM

Amnesty International Thailand invites you to visit a global exhibition ‘Change this world! 50 years of posters for Amnesty International (1961-2011)’. To commemorate the 50th anniversar y of international organization that works to protect and defend human rights worldwide, posters are displayed at this exhibition collected from Amnesty International’s campaigns from the past 50 years from every corner of the world. For more information Tel. 0 2662 6246 or www.wtfbangkok.com

NOW – ONWARDS CHIANG MAI NOW

Venue: $CPIMQM #TV CPF %WNVWTG Center This is an exhibition demonstrating a process of occurrences, activities, and experiments of contemporary culture that are currently happening in Chiang Mai. Angkrit Ajchariyasophon curates the exhibition, putting forward unique perspectives of the 12 artists and cultural activists. For more information Tel. 0 2214 6630 or www.bacc.or.th

The 3rd Art Thesis Exhibition gathers theses from students from 26 art institutions nationwide, comprising outstanding works by 92 final-year undergraduate and graduate art students in painting. For more information Tel. 0 2281 5360

NOW - 25th SEPTEMBER

FARMER: RICE GURU OR SCIENTIST?

Venue: /WUGWO 5KCO $CPIMQM

Museum Siam’s exhibition showcases the entire process of Thai farming, including how they deal with nature both scientifically and spiritually. The lifestyles of farmers and their paddy fields are also shown in this exhibition. Museum Siam opens daily except Monday. For more information Tel. 0 2225 2777 or www.museumsiam.com

NOW - 19th JUNE ANCIENT OTAKU

Venue: #TFGN )CNNGT[ $CPIMQM

Ancient Otaku is the second solo exhibition by Thosapol Boriboon. The stem of the exhibition comes from the Japanese term ‘Otaku’ which is used to refer to people with obsessive interests. Feelings, emotions and introspection of the artist are added into the artworks as symbolic figures to represent the overlap between the truth in cyber space and the illusions that exist in the real world. For more information Tel. 0 2422 2092 or www.ardelgallery.com

NOW – ONWARDS WHAT IS DESIGN?

Venue: Thailand Creative Design %GPVGT 'ORQTKWO $CPIMQM This permanent exhibition showcases classic designs from 10 countries that have distinctive design styles, such as United Kingdom, France, Italy, United States and Japan. You will become aware of how, in every country, design draws upon cultural assets to inspire and create something new and unique. For more information Tel. 0 2664 8448 or www.tcdc.or.th

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ARCHITECT . 建築 Text The Center for Promotion of Arts and Culture, Chiang Mai University Photo: Sathaporn Kongyoo

AUI PAD’S KALAE HOUSE @ the Lanna Traditional House Museum

The Lana Traditional House Museum in the Center for Promotion of Arts and Culture, Chiang Mai University, presents a rare exhibition of traditional Lanna houses, offering education of the area’s culture beyond its ancient residents. The exhibited houses are divided into categories based on this diversity, displaying both local Lanna-­style structures and others from various parts of the country;; the Kalae house of Aui Pad is also one of the prominent houses in the museum. Kalae houses face east with roof ridges oriented along a north to south direction. In between two gables, there is a gutter or ‘hong-­lin’. The house comprises of two compartments shar-­ ing the same roof and platform: the larger compartment is a sleeping area, while the smaller is a cooking area;; the bathroom is usually built away from the house. The front veranda-­porch, called a ‘toen’, serves as a working, resting and sleeping area for brothers of the owner, whilst the partition, which extends from the wooden wall called ‘fah-­lab-­nang’, serves as private area for the daughter.

There is no ‘tueng’ or ceiling under the concave roof to drain heat and above カラエ様式の家＠ラナ伝統建築博物館 the door of the sleeping area, there is a ラナ伝統建築博物館はチェンマイ大学の芸術文化 notable decorative lintel called a ‘hum-­ プロモーションの中心である。展示されている家々 yon’. A post beside the front stairs is はそれぞれ様式ごとに分けられ、ラナ様式のものと called a ‘sao-­laeng-­mah’, which dogs 他の地方からのもの、両方がある。カラエ式の家は 東向きで、屋根は北と南に向かって造られている。 are tied to. The kalae house is constructed from ２つの区画からなり、大きい区画は寝室、小さい区 teak posts and levers. The posts are 画は台所。八角形のチーク材の柱で造られており、 normally lathed into an octagon shape ６つの柱で家全体を支えている。壁はまっすぐでは and the house consists of six pairs of なく、内側のスペースを作り出すために外側に傾い 「カラエ」 と呼ばれる２本の角のような木彫 octagon posts. These posts bear the ている。 で飾られていることから、 「カラエ家」 と呼ばれる。 weight of the whole house, the four walls of which lean outwards instead of going straight up in order to increase space for shelves inside the room. It is also built elevated from the ground to keep the temperature as low as possible. The uniqueness of a traditional kalae house is a decorative wooden carving called a ‘kalae’ shaped like a pair of horns, and is where the house gets its name. The Center for the Promotion of Arts and Culture, Chiang Mai University Suthep Rd., T. Suthep, Muang Chiang Mai Tel. 0 5394 3626, 0 5394 3629 or www.art-culture.chiangmai.ac.th

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SUVANNAPHOUM FEATURE Text & Photo: Passport to Suvannaphoum

SUVANNAPHOUM FEATURE

THE LAND OF

A THOUSAND PAGODAS 何千ものパゴダのある地−バガンを訪れる旅

A trip to Bagan

When we think of visiting Myanmar, Yangon’s Shwedagon Pagoda is at the forefront of our minds. This golden pagoda, which contains 8 pieces of the Buddha’s hair relics, is not only an attraction in our neighboring country, but Northern people, especially those born in the year of dog, wish to make a pilgrimage to Phrathat Inkaewn or Kyaikhtiyo Pagoda in Mon once in their life time, according to Lanna belief. Anyway, there is also an attraction that you should not miss. It is the place where thousands of pagodas are exotically located...

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SUVANNAPHOUM FEATURE Text & Photo: Passport to Suvannaphoum

Suvannaphoum  land  literary  means  the  golden  land  and  consists  of  India,  Myanmar,  Thailand,  Laos  and  Cambodia  and  is  a  strong  Buddhist  base,  especially  in  Myanmar.  There  is  no  clear  evidence  when  Buddhism  arrived  in  Myanmar  but  King  Okkalapa  had  a  strong  belief  an d  e s t a b l i s h e d  t h e  S h w e d a g o n  3DJRGD DURXQG \HDUV DJR WKH ÂżUVW  evidence  of  Buddhism  in  Myanmar.  The  Pegan  Kingdom  (1044-­1287),  or  Bagan  in  modern  tongue,  was  the  ¿UVW G\QDVW\ LQ WKH KLVWRU\ RI 0\DQPDU It  is  located  in  the  dry  central  plains  of  the  country,  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the   Irrawady  River,  140  kilometers  south-­ west  of  Mandalay.  In  the  past,  the   dynasty  was  in  the  trading  route  between  India  and  South  China,  the  kingdom   UHFHLYLQJ SURÂżWV IURP WD[LQJ RI WUDGH DQG the  route  alongside  the  river. Â

SUVANNAPHOUM FEATURE

The majority of the kingdom’s buildings were built during the 11 th century and 13 th century, at which time Bagan was the capital of the First Burmese Empire. It was not until King Pyinbya moved the capital to Bagan in 874 that it became a major city. In 1057, King Anawratha conquered the Mon capital of Thaton, and brought back Buddhist monks and craftsmen, and they were made good use of in order to transform Bagan into a religious centre. Many temples and FRQVWUXFWLRQV LQ WKH DUHD LQ WKH ¿UVW HUD ZHUH LQÀXHQFHG E\ WKH 0RQ The most gorgeous era of Pegan was during the reign of Kyanzittha who built many pagodas such as Ku Phaya Ananda which is a Mon architectural masterpiece. During that period, Pegan was said to be the land of 4 millions pagodas. After that, King Alaungsithu came to the throne, and reigned the Pegan Kingdom for 50 years. The king built the irrigation system, public utilities and many pagodas such as Ku Phaya Shwegugy. The pagodas built in the reign of King Kyanzittha were a change in the ar-­ chitecture of the area;; most of them were Burmese in style.

In the 12th and 13th centuries, Bagan became a truly cosmopolitan centre of Buddhist studies, attract-­ ing monks from as far as India, Sri Lanka as, Thai and Khmer. In 1287, the kingdom fell to the Mongols, after refusing to pay tribute to Kublai Khan. The city therefore declined as a political centre, but continued to ÀRXULVK DV D SODFH RI %XGGKLVW VFKRO-­ arship;; there was also the period of Lanna establishment in 1296. To admire the many thousand pagodas of the previous great empire is something special for tourists, and a must when visiting Bagan. The ruins feature Mon architecture, and the fusion of Mon and Burma styles is apparent in many pagodas. After the earthquake in 1975, only 2,217 pagodas remained in Bagan. Thus, in order to preserve the original pagodas, only horse-­driven carriages are allowed to travel among the pagodas. Another excellent activ-­ ity is to admire the sunset above the Irrawady River where you can see the gorgeous scene of a thousand pagodas from a bird’s eye view on the Shwe Modo Pagoda.

ミャンマーの旅と言えば、 ヤンゴンのシュエダゴンパ ゴダが頭に浮かぶ。仏の髪の遺物の8個が含まれてい るこの黄金パゴダだけでなく、モンのプラタットインケ ウンやキャイカティオパゴダは特に戌年生まれの方に は必見の場所である。 仏教国、 ミャンマーへいつ仏教が 伝来したかはさだかではないが、 シュエダゴンパゴダ は2500年前に当時の国王が建てた、仏教初期の証拠 とも言える。バガン王国（1044年∼1287年）はミャンマ ーの歴史の中で最初の王朝で、 国の乾燥地帯に位置し ていた。王朝はインドと中国南部の間の貿易ルートで あり、イギリスは、貿易の税金から利益を得ていた。パ ガンの最も華やかな時代はキャンジタ国王の時代で ４百万ものパゴダが構築されたといわれる。12-13世 紀には仏教研究の国際的中心地となり、インドやスリ ランカなどの国からも多くの学生が集まった。1975年 の地震の後、バガンには2,217のパゴダが残っている。

How to get there? From Chiang Mai, tourists can travel to Yangon by Air Bagan, taking about 1 hour, and from there on to Bagan in only 30 minutes. For more information, contact Air Bagan, 0 5328 4895-6 or www.airbagan.com.

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CULTURE . 文化 Text: Passport to Suvannaphoum Photo: Apple Tree

PRIOR to the ART of PRINTING

印刷技術導入の前―古代タイの本

Phra bot shown the Jakata tales at the lounge of Rachamankha Hotel

CULTURE

Dine at Rachamankha Hotel, Chiang Mai, you are sure to be impressed by the decorative pictures around the restaurant. Parts of ancient Thai books made of tree pulp known as ‘samut koi’ (‘koi’ is the name of the name of the tree’s pulp which is used to make the book and ‘samut’ means book) are situated on the white walls, and at the end of the restaurant is located a large picture of 19th century illustrations of the zodiac. Khun Rooj Changkratul, the owner of Rachamankha Hotel, owns these pictures and has a private collection of over a hundred pieces. He Rooj said that the majority of his samut koi collection dates from the 19th century, made in early Rattanakosin district. Samut koi is the ancient Thai book containing Jakata fables, Buddhist scriptures and general textbooks. The books with long folded paper contained colorful illustrations, which attracted him when he was young. In Lanna, people call these ancient books ‘pup sa’ according to its material made of sa tree (while pup is the Lanna word for ‘fold’). Pup sa books were written in Lanna languages and most of them were without illustrations. He informed that the illustrations in ‘samut koi’ are detailed and of a high standard while

the pictures in the ‘pup sa’ are in folk style, each with its own charming character. The prominent set of Khun Rooj’s ‘samut koi’ collection is the story of Phra Malai with Khmer alphabet that are shown in the hotel’s restaurant. At the hotel’s lounge near the lawn, there are also the set of phra bot pictures. Phra bot is a long cloth adorned with the Lord Buddha’s picture used when monks pray. Phra bot shown in Rachamankha Hotel is from the Jakata tales (the 10 rebirth stories of the Lord Buddha before becoming the Lord Buddha). The painting techniques of samut koi and phra bot are same as the murals in temples. Also, both the murals and ancient books used color powder for the main painting. Historians assume that the murals were created to broadcast the Buddhist stories to many people, as only a handful of books were made and read only by educated people. The production of samut koi and pup sa faded during the reign of Rama V when the technology of photograph-­ ing, paper industry and printing were introduced in Thailand. They were initially considered as unimportant, but are now held in high regard and considered very valuable.

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ラチャマンカホテルにはオーナーのコレクション であるパルプの木でできた古代タイの絵が多く飾ら れている。ただのアンティークと思う人もいるが、絵 には貴重な歴史的背景があり教科書にもなりうる。 彼の主なコレクションはジャカタ物語や仏教に基づ くもので、 カマー文字で書かれており、バーリ語で読 まれるため、読める人は少ない。彼は他にも多くの古 代ミャンマーの本のコレクションも持つ。

Above: The ancient book of Burma, or the Burmese samut koi Below: Khun Rooj Changkratul, the owner of Rachamankha Hotel, with a big painting of zodiac as the background

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FEATURE . 牚集 Text: Passport to Suvannaphoum Photo: Photo: Apple Tree

Ramayana Mural at Wat Phra Si Rattana Satsadaram The mural painting of Ramayana story which is the battle between Rama with Ravana is one of the most famous paintings in Thailand. This picture was created by Lert Puangphradet, the royal painter, in 1937.

FEATURE

STORIES BEHIND THE WALLS The Journey of Mural Paintings 壁の背後にあるストーリー ラナの壁画の旅

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FEATURE

The  Journey  of  Mural  Paintings  ăƒŠăƒŠă ŽĺŁ 甝㠎旅

The  red  ochre  paintings  of  humans  hunting  huge  animals  found  in  a  cave  at  Grotte  Chauvet,  France,  DUH EHOLHYHG WR EH PDQœV ¿UVW HYHU SDLQWLQJV PDGH about  32,000  years  ago. Prehistoric  men  may  have  painted  animals  to  catch  their  souls  to  hunt  them  more  easily  or  the  paint-­ ings  may  represent  an  animistic  vision  and  homage  to  their  surrounding  nature.  If  there  is  meaning  to  the  paintings,  it  remains  unknown.  The  caves  were  not  in  an  inhabited  area,  so  they  may  have  been  used  for  seasonal  rituals.  Similar  mysteries  surround  the  ancient  Lanna  murals  painted  500  years  ago  inside  the  chedi  (pagoda)  of  Wat  U-­mong,  which  people  were  unaware  of  until  the  pagoda  was  accidentally  broken.  It  was  with  that  unexpected  act,  the  stories  of  murals  began.

Temple  Art ă Š寺㠎中㠎芸襓 Architecture  and  design  of  temples  in  Thailand  DUH LQĂ€XHQFHG E\ +LQGX DQG %XGGKLVW EHOLHIV DV are  the  elaborate  paintings  on  the  internal  walls.  As  WKH VFULSWXUHV RI 7KHUDYDGD %XGGKLVWV ZHUH LQ 3DOL  language,  which  could  only  be  understood  by  a   handful  of  learned  individuals,  the  Thai  murals  were  created  to  ensure  easy  recognition  of  stories  and  facilitate  the  understanding  of  history  and   morality.  Therefore  the  subject  matter  in  the  murals  is   GHSLFWLRQV IURP WKH OLIH RI WKH %XGGKD DQG VWRULHV IURP WKH -DNDWD 7DOHV $OVR GHSLFWHG DUH %XGGKLVW concepts  of  cosmology  dealing  with  the  universe,  the  nature  of  time  and  the  concept  of  rebirth.   Thai  mural  temple  paintings  are  highly  stylistic  DQG ORWV RI V\PEROV DUH XVHG %DVLFDOO\ WKH DUWLVWV UHQGHU FHUWDLQ VFHQHV IURP WKH OLIH RI WKH %XGGKD and  the  Jatakas;Íž  while  the  details  may  differ,  scenes  are  similar  in  different  temples.  The  characters  may  well  confuse  the  meaning  of  the  paintings,  but  Thai   %XGGKLVWV FDQ UHFRJQL]H WKH GLIIHUHQW VFHQHV E\  looking  for  key  elements  in  the  compositions.  For   example,  the  scene  in  the  picture  2  (page  33)  depicts  WKH RFHDQ ZLWK D ÂżVK DQG D VKLSZUHFN 7KLV ZLOO  identify  the  scene  as  part  of  Mahajanaka  Jataka.

â€ƒä¸–ç•Œă §ĺˆ?ă‚ ă Śçľľă ŒčŚ‹ă ¤ă ‹ă Łă &#x;㠎㠯万ĺ?ƒĺš´ĺ‰?ă ă ¨ă •ă‚Œă‚‹ă€‚ ăƒ•ăƒŠăƒłă‚š ă Žă‚°ăƒ­ăƒƒăƒ†ă‚ˇăƒ§ăƒźă šă Žć´žçŞ&#x;㠍辤ă „éť„ĺœ&#x;ă Ťç‹Šă‚Šă Žçľľă Œć??ă ‹ă‚Œă Śă „ă‚‹ă€‚ĺ…ˆĺ?˛ 時䝣㠎人ă€…ă Žçľľă Œă Šă Žă‚ˆă †ă Şć„?ĺ‘łă‚’ćŒ ă ¤ă ‹ă Żă‚?ă ‹ă Łă Śă „ă Şă „ă Œă€ ć´žçŞ&#x;ă Ż 季節㠎儀ĺź?㠍使ç”¨ă •ă‚Œă Śă „ă &#x;ă ¨čŚ‹ă‚‰ă‚Œă‚‹ă€‚ ă “ă Žč€ƒă ˆă Żă Şă œăƒŠăƒŠă Žäşşă€…ă Œ ç´„ďź•ďź?ďź?ĺš´ĺ‰?ă Ťăƒ‘ă‚´ăƒ€ă Žä¸­ă ŤĺŁ ç”ťă‚’ć??ă „ă &#x;㠨㠄㠆質ĺ•?ă ¨ĺ?Œă ˜ă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ăƒ‘ ă‚´ăƒ€ă Œäş‹ć•…ă §ĺŁŠă‚Œă Śă —ă žă †ă žă §ă€ ĺŁ ç”ťă Žç‰ŠčŞžă Żĺ§‹ă žă‚‰ă Şă ‹ă Łă &#x;。

3DQXSRQJ /DRKDVRP WKH +HDG RI 7KDL $UWV 'HSDUW-­ ment,  the  Faculty  of  Fine  Arts,  Chiang  Mai  University,  said  that  murals  are  few  and  far  between,  and  people  can  VHH WKHP RQO\ RQ WHPSOH ZDOOV .LQJV DOVR LQĂ€XHQFHG the  content  of  the  murals  in  each  temple,  which  is  why  images  of  kings  are  featured  in  addition  to  illustrations  RI WKH VWRULHV RI -DNDWD 7DOHV RU 7UDL %KXPL )URP WKH Ayutthaya  until  the  Rattanakosin  era  in  the  city  of   %DQJNRN H[FHOOHQW WUDGLWLRQDO PXUDO SDLQWLQJV ZHUH created,  especially  during  the  period  of  King  Rama  I  â€“  King  Rama  III,  which  had  concrete  human  stories  EHIRUH WKHQ WKH\ ZHUH FUHDWHG LQ %XGGKLVW DEVWUDFW  images  of  mythologies  and  fables).  Until  King  Rama  IV,  and  with  western  influence,  the  techniques  of   PXUDOV FKDQJHG DQG PRVW ZHUH LQ ' ZLWK WKH DGGLWLRQ of  western  characters  and  architecture  in  the  murals.  After  King  Rama  IV,  technology  of  printing  came  about  and  Thai  people  were  educated  by  western  art  schools,  so  the  forms  of  murals  therefore  changed  again.      ă‚żă‚¤ă Žă Š寺㠯坺çŻ‰ă‚„čŠ¸čĄ“ă Şă Šă€ ăƒ’ăƒłăƒ‰ă‚Ľăƒźć•™ă ‹ă‚‰㠎役é&#x;żă‚’ĺ?—ă ‘ă Śă „ る。 ă žă &#x;çľŒĺ…¸ă Żăƒ?ăƒźăƒŞčŞžă §ć›¸ă ‹ă‚Œă Śă „ă‚‹ă &#x;゠〠ă ?ă‚Œă‚’読ă‚ ă‚‹äşşă Żĺ°‘ă Ş ă „ă€‚ĺŁ ç”ťă Żĺ¤šă ?ă Žäşşă Œ茳㠌歴ĺ?˛ă‚„ăƒ˘ăƒŠăƒŤă Œç?†解㠧ă ?ă‚‹ă‚ˆă †ă Ťă ¨ć??ă ‹ă‚Œ ă &#x;。牊語㠯㠊寺㠍ă‚ˆă Łă Śé •ă †ă Œă€ ă Šă‚Œă‚‚ă‚šă‚żă‚¤ăƒŞă‚šăƒ†ă‚Łăƒƒă‚Żă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ăƒ ă‚§ ăƒłăƒžă‚¤ĺ¤§ĺ­Śă ŽčŠ¸čĄ“ĺ­Śç§‘ć•™ćŽˆă Żă€ ĺ›˝çŽ‹ă &#x;ă Ąă ŒĺŁ ç”ťă Ťĺ¤§ă ?ă ?é–˘ă‚?㠣㠌㠊り〠ă ?ă‚Œă žă‚Œă Œč‡ŞčşŤă‚’蹥垴㠙る寺ă€ ĺŁ ç”ťă‚’ä˝œă Łă &#x;㠨㠄㠆。手法㠯輿洋技襓㠎 役é&#x;żă Ťă‚ˆă‚Šĺ¤‰ĺŒ–ă —ă Śă ?㠌㠄る。

FEATURE

Traditional  Mural  Characteristics

Captions 1. The first mural painting in the world from around 32,000 years ago and found at a cave in Grotte Chauvet, France (information from www.wikipedia.com) 2. The mural painting of Mahajanaka Jakata (or Maha Chanok in Thai), found in Wat King Kaew, Rachaburi province. 3. The mural painting of Hanuman hiding the palace of Rama, found in Wat Phra Si Rattana Maha Satsadaram or Wat Phra Kaew in the Royal Palace.

The  traditional  Thai  murals  contain  many  small,  DOPRVW WLQ\ LQGLYLGXDO VFHQHV ODQGVFDSHV DQG ÂżJXUHV in  contrast  to  the  large  wall  space  on  which  they  DUH SDLQWHG 7KH REMHFWV DUH VW\OL]HG WKURXJKRXW Thailand  and  are  two  dimensional  in  form;Íž  that  is  there  is  no  perspective  of  dimension  as  in  European  SDLQWLQJV 7KHUH DUH DOVR FRQWLQXRXV DQG Ă€RZLQJ VHWV of  panoramas  of  places,  palaces,  towns,  events  and  country  landscapes  with  real  and  mythical  people  or  FUHDWXUHV +RZHYHU DOO SDQRUDPDV ZKHWKHU SDLQWHG above  the  head  of  the  viewer,  at  the  same  level  or  QHDUHU WKH Ă€RRU DUH SDLQWHG IURP D SHUVSHFWLYH WKDW the  viewer  is  high  above,  as  if  in  the  sky  looking  down  or  from  a  distance.  Suggested  temples  to  see  VXFK PXUDOV LQ %DQJNRN LQFOXGH :DW 3KUD .DHZ LQ WKH 5R\DO 3DODFH :DW 6XWKDW DQG :DW 'XVLW

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FEATURE

Classic Lanna Murals %OHQGLQJ /DQQD 5DFHV 古代ラナの壁画 古代ラナの壁画

Viharn Lai Kham, Wat Phra Singh The mural painting of Prince Sang Tong, the ancient tale, found in Viharn Lai Kham of Wat Phra Singh, Chiang Mai. This mural was created by Chinese artist who was influenced by the art in the Royal Palace in Bangkok. This mural was expected to be written around the 19th centure at the nearly time of Wat Buak Krok Luang.

FEATURE What  makes  Lanna  murals  different  from  those  in   %DQJNRN LV WKH VXSSRUW IURP WKH 5R\DO 3DODFH :KLOH WKH kings  of  Siam  contracted  painters  to  create  murals,  Lanna  murals  were  made  by  locals,  ensuring  they  have  their  own  characteristics,  and  are  unique  and  beautiful. The  murals  show  how  ancient  Lanna  people  lived  in  t h e  p r e v i o u s  t i m e ,  h o w  t h e y  d r e s s e d  a n d  t h e   architecture.  Many  murals  also  show  the  influence  of   %XUPHVH &KLQHVH DQG :HVWHUQHUV ZKR FDPH WR /DQQD  hundreds  of  years  ago. One  of  the  oldest  story-­telling  Lanna  mural  paintings  is  at  Viharn  Nam  Taem  in  Wat  Phrathat  Lampang  Luang,  Lampang  province,  where  the  diversity  of  craftsmanship  DQG WKH EHDXWLIXO GHWDLO GHÂżQHV WKH JRUJHRXV /DQQD HUD  Established  around  1501,  Viharn  Nam  Taem  is  located  in  the  north  of  the  pagoda,  with  is  the  murals  on  the  wooden  ZDOOV 7KH\ IHDWXUH WZR VHFWLRQV ÂżUVW LV WKH VWRU\ RI WKH ,QGUD God,  and  the  second  is  the  story  of  Samavadee,  the  woman  in  Jakata  tales,  detailing  the  results  of  her  sin.  The  murals’  revolution  in  Lanna  was  dropped  for  over  \HDUV GXH WR LWV FRORQL]DWLRQ E\ %XUPD 'XULQJ WKLV WLPH %XUPHVH DUW DQG DUFKLWHFWXUH LQĂ€XHQFHG /DQQD DUWLVWV DQG  evidence  of  the  mix  of  cultures  is  found  in  the  murals  paintings  inside  Wat  Buak  Krok  Luang   (the  right  picture),Chiang  Mai,  dated  from  the  end  of  19th  century. 7KH PXUDOV LQ :DW %XDN .URN /XDQJ WHOO RI WKH WDOHV RI WKH /RUG %XGGKDÂśV IRUPHU ELUWK DQG RWKHU %XGGKLVW fables  on  the  14  walls  inside  the  temple.  Created  by  Tai  Yai  artists  who  lived  in  Lanna,  the  murals  have  vivid  colors  like  the  impressionist  works  of  Van  Gogh.  It  is  clear  that  PDQ\ YLOODJHUVÂś FRVWXPHV LQ WKH PXUDOV ZHUH LQĂ€XHQFHG E\ WKH %XUPHVH HVSHFLDOO\ WKH NLQJV ZKR LQ VRPH SLFWXUHV DUH GUHVVHG OLNH WKH %XUPHVH NLQJV DQG WKH SDODFHV DUH RI  %XUPHVH DUFKLWHFWXUH KRZHYHU WKH XWLOLWLHV DUH GLVWLQFWO\ Lanna.  Another  prominent  point  of  the  murals  is  that  the  artists  separated  each  story  with  a  frame.  â€ƒăƒŠăƒŠĺŁ 甝㠨ăƒ?ăƒłă‚łă‚Żă ŽĺŁ ç”ťă ¨ă Žé •ă „ă Żă€ çŽ‹厎㠋ら㠎ゾăƒ?ăƒźăƒˆă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ ă‚ˇă‚˘ăƒ ă Žĺ›˝çŽ‹ă Żĺ?Œă ˜ă‚ˆă †ă Ťĺ„Şç§€ă Şç”ťĺŽśă‚’探㠗ă &#x;ă Œă€ ăƒŠăƒŠă Žç”ťĺŽśă Žă ťă †ă Œć°‘čĄ†çš„ă §ă ‚ ă Łă &#x;ă &#x;ă‚ ă€ ăƒŠăƒŠă ŽĺŁ ç”ťă ŻăƒŚăƒ‹ăƒźă‚Żă §çžŽă —ă „ă€‚ĺŁ ç”ťă ŻăƒŠăƒŠă Žäşşă€…ă Žç”&#x;ć´ťă‚„ćœ?装〠ä˝?ĺŽ…ă ŽĺťşçŻ‰ć§˜ĺź?ă Şă Šă‚’襨㠗㠌㠄る。㠞ă &#x;何癞嚴もĺ‰?ă Žăƒ&#x;ăƒŁăƒłăƒžăƒźă‚„中国〠輿 洋㠋ら㠎役é&#x;żă‚‚čŚ‹ă‚‰ă‚Œă‚‹ă€‚ â€ƒăƒŠăƒŠă §ćœ€ă‚‚ĺ?¤ă „ĺŁ ç”ťă ŻăƒŠăƒłăƒ‘ăƒźăƒłă Ťă ‚ă‚‹ăƒ—ăƒŠă‚żăƒƒăƒˆăƒŠăƒłăƒ‘ăƒźăƒłăƒŤă‚˘ăƒłĺŻşă Ž ăƒ“ăƒ?ăƒźăƒłăƒŠăƒ ă‚żăƒ ă Ťă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ďź‘ďź•ďź?ďź‘ĺš´ă Ťăƒ‘ă‚´ă‚żă ŽĺŒ—ĺ ´ă Ťč¨­çŤ‹ă •ă‚Œă€ ďź’㠤㠎ă‚ť ă‚Żă‚ˇăƒ§ăƒłă §ĺŁ ç”ťă Żć§‹ćˆ?ă •ă‚Œă Śă „ă‚‹ă€‚㠲㠨㠤㠯ă‚¤ăƒłăƒ‰ăƒŠçĽžă Žç‰ŠčŞžă §ă‚‚ă †㠲㠨㠤 㠯罪㠎çľ?ćžœă‚’ć°‘čĄ†ă Ťäź?ă ˆă‚‹ă‚¸ăƒŁă‚Ťă‚żç‰ŠčŞž㠎㠲㠨㠤㠧ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ĺŁ ç”ťă Żäť?教寓芹ă ă ‘㠧㠪ă ?ă€ ăƒŠăƒŠă Žäşşă€…ă Žćœ?čŁ…ć–‡ĺŒ–ă Œć??ă ‹ă‚Œă Śă Šă‚Šă€ éšŽç´šă Ťă‚ˆă‚‹ćœ?čŁ…ă Žé •ă „ă Œ čŚ‹ă‚‰ă‚Œă‚‹ă€‚ăƒ ă‚§ăƒłăƒžă‚¤ă Žăƒ–ă‚˘ăƒƒă‚Żăƒ­ăƒƒă‚ŻăƒŤă‚˘ăƒłĺŻşă ŽĺŁ ç”ťă Ťă Żäť?陀㠎ĺ‰?㠎誕ç”&#x; 牊語芹ă‚„ă ?ă Žäť–ă Žç‰ŠčŞžă Œďź‘ďź”ćžšă ŽĺŁ ă Ťć??ă ‹ă‚Œă Śă „ă‚‹ă€‚ĺŁ ç”ťă Żă€ ăƒ´ă‚Ąăƒłă‚´ăƒƒ ăƒ›ă Žĺ?°čąĄć´žă Žä˝œĺ“ ă Žă‚ˆă †㠍鎎や㠋㠪色㠧ć??ă ‹ă‚Œă Śă Šă‚Šă€ ă‚¨ăƒ?ăƒŤă‚Žăƒƒă‚ˇăƒĽă §äť– ă Žă Šă ŽĺŁ ç”ťă ¨ă‚‚é •ă †ă€‚äşşç‰Šă Žćœ?čŁ…ă Żć˜Žă‚‰ă ‹ă Ťăƒ&#x;ăƒŁăƒłăƒžăƒźă Žĺ˝ąé&#x;żă‚’ĺ?—ă ‘ă Śă „ă‚‹ă “ ă ¨ă Œă‚?㠋り〠国王もăƒ&#x;ăƒŁăƒłăƒžăƒźă ŽçŽ‹ă ¨ĺ?Œă ˜ă‚ˆă †ă Şćœ?装を㠗㠌㠄る。 ă “ă Žă ŠĺŻşă ŽĺŁ ç”ťă Żă‚ŻăƒŠăƒƒă‚ˇăƒƒă‚Żă §ă Żă Şă „ă Œă€ ďź‘ďź?ďź?嚴䝼上もĺ‰?ă Žăƒ&#x;ăƒŁăƒłăƒžăƒźă ¨ăƒŠăƒŠă Žčž?ĺ?ˆă • ă‚Œă &#x;ă€ ăƒŚăƒ‹ăƒźă‚Żă §ă‚ŞăƒŞă‚¸ăƒŠăƒŤă Şä˝œĺ“ ă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚

Murals in Tunnels @ Wat U-mong Temple The oldest mural paintings found in the north of Thailand was located at Wat U-mong behind Chiang Mai University. Thought to be created circa 15th century, there are two prominent murals inside the stupa of the pagoda and inside the tunnels. A red powder color is used in the background, with green, white and black used to make the patterns of flowers, lotus and birds. However, it’s with regret that the murals at Wat U-mong have faded over time and there is nothing now on the walls. Surachai Jongjit-Ngam, a lecturer and researcher from the Department of Thai Arts, Fine Arts Faculty, Chiang Mai University, has instigated a project to research and duplicate the lost murals, and imitations of the old murals pictures can be seen on the exhibition board in the tunnels. For more information about Wat U-mong’s mural paintings project, click www.umongpainting.com.

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TMurals  Â

he  Era  of  'LYHUVH ĺŁ ç”ťă Žĺ¤šć§˜ć€§ă Žć™‚䝣

After  the  reign  of  King  Mongkut,  or  Rama  IV,  the  pattern  of  PXUDO SDLQWLQJV GLYHUVLÂżHG 'XULQJ WKH 5DPD ,9 HUD WKH VXSSRUW from  the  royal  palace  meant  painters  focused  on  creating  scenes  LQ ' ZKLOH WKH FRQWHQW FHQWHUHG RQ WKH FRUH RI %XGGKLVP PRUH than  the  Jakata  tales,  which  were  previously  popular.  When  King  Chulalongkorn,  or  Rama  V,  came  to  the  throne,  the  painting  style  GLG QRW FKDQJH PXFK +RZHYHU PXUDOV FKDQJHG GUDPDWLFDOO\ DV western  art  schools  began  to  open  in  Thailand  that  introduced   different  painting  techniques.  The  prominent  period  of  change  was  when  the  printing  business  came  to  the  country,  and  the  SLFWXUHV E\ 6RU 'KDPPD\RW ZHUH SULQWHG 6RU 'KDPPD\RW is  the  name  of  the  monk’s  utensil  shop  near  Giant  Swing  in   %DQJNRN ZKHUH D VHULHV RI %XGGKD VWRULHVÂś RQ SULQWHG SLFWXUHV were  distributed.  With  a  realistic  style  of  painting,  the  pictures  ZHUH UHSURGXFHG LQ WKH IRUP RI PXUDO SDLQWLQJV LQ OLIH VL]H SURSRUWLRQV VHH WKH H[DPSOH DW :DW 6XDQ 'RN     â€ƒăƒ˘ăƒłă‚ŻăƒƒăƒˆçŽ‹ă€ ăƒŠăƒžçŽ‹ďź”ä¸–ă Žć™‚䝣㠎ĺžŒă ‹ă‚‰ă€ ĺŁ ç”ťă Ťĺ¤šć§˜ć€§ă Œ㠧㠌ă ?㠌〠3Dă §ă‚¸ăƒŁă‚Ť ă‚żç‰ŠčŞžă‚ˆă‚Šă‚‚äť?ć•™ă Žć ¸ĺżƒă‚’襨㠙も㠎㠸㠨ĺ¤‰ĺŒ–ă —ă &#x;。 ă‚żă‚¤ă ŤčĽżć´‹ă Žă‚˘ăƒźăƒˆă‚šă‚ŻăƒźăƒŤă Œ ă §ă ?㠌䝼ć?Ľă€ 多ă ?ă ŽĺŁ ç”ťă Žă‚šă‚żă‚¤ăƒŤă Œĺ°Žĺ…Ľă •ă‚Œă€ ĺ?°ĺˆˇäş‹漭㠎導兼㠧多ă ?ă Žäť?教牊語 ă‚„ĺƒ§äžśă ŽĺŽ&#x;牊大㠎写çœ&#x;ă Œĺ?°ĺˆˇă •ă‚Œă &#x;。 ďźˆă‚šăƒŻăƒłăƒ‰ăƒƒă‚ŻĺŻşă Ťäž‹ă Œă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ďź‰

Captions 1. The mural at Wat Sri Suphant, Wua Lai - Chiang Mai, shows modern graphics in the traditional contents of the zodiac. Also, the murals below were created by silver carving which is a unique characteristic of the Wua Lai community. 2. Painting of Sor Dhammayot which was produced by a print making technique, and then was modelled as the murals in the following time. 3. The mural painting in stencil technique at Wat Chiang Man. Stencil is also a new technique of mural that Prof. Vithi Panichphant created the story of Phraya Mangrai to the viharn of the temple. 4. The humor of mural painter in Wat Chai Mongkol. The picture shows Add Carabao, the famous folk singer, visiting a religious ceremony in Chiang Mai

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TRAVEL FEATURE . 旅行特集 Text : Passport to Suvannaphoum Photo: ABHAROOCHA, Aripai Leangphet

The famous mural painting of a Lanna man whispering to a woman in Wat Phumin, Nan province

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STORIES  OF EASTERN  LANNA A  Worthwhile  trip  to  see  Mural  Paintings  in  Nan

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he  famous  mural  painting  of  a  Lanna  man  whispering  to  a  woman  is  an  iconic  Lanna  image  found  on  t-­shirts,  posters  and  souvenirs  around  WRZQ LQ WKH 1LJKW %D]DDU DQG 6XQGD\ Walking  Street.  This  famous  painting  is  not  originally  from  Chiang  Mai.  7R ¿QG LW D KRXU URDG WULS PXVW be  taken  from  Chiang  Mai  to  Nan  province. N a n  i s  c r a d l e d  i n  a  l u s h   valley  roughly  320  kilometers  east  of   Chiang  Mai  near  the  far  north-­eastern  border  with  Laos.  Little  visited  by  mainstream  tourism,  it  does,  however,  have  mountainous  wildernesses,  wild  rivers  and  lovely  rural  scenery  As  its  location  is  remote  the  province  has  its  own  unique  cultural  character,  whilst  its  nature  attractions  are  numerous  and  well  worth  checking  out.

 This  sleepy  town  was  the  centre  of  an  independent  little  kingdom  right  up  to  the  turn  of  the  20th  century  and  has  some  ancient  sites.  Nan  is  a  typically  unhurried  provincial  town  with  empty  streets  and  a  surprising  collection  of  notable  temples  with  impressive  legacies.  At  the  center  of  downtown  Nan,  D VWURQJ %XGGKLVW EDVHG FLW\ LV VLWX-­ ated  Wat  Phumin.  The  lawn  in  front  of  the  temple  is  open  to  the  public,  used  as  a  meeting  point  by  tourists  and  local  residents.  The  most  famous  temple  in  Nan  is  renowned  for  its  cruciform  ubosot  which  was  con-­ VWUXFWHG LQ DQG UHVWRUHG GXULQJ WKH UHLJQ RI $QDQWD 9RUD 5LWWKL 'HW ,W LV WKH RQO\ WHPSOH built  as  if  it  were  on  the  back  of  2  Nagas  (immense  snakes).  Each  of  the Â

four  entrances  is  preceded  by  a  small  FRUULGRU WRSSHG E\ D ÂżQHO\ GHFRUDWHG point  shaped  structure  (underlining  the  royal  origin  of  the  temple)  and  is  equipped  with  smoothly  carved  doors;Íž  with  Chinese  demon  guards  LQ WKH (DVW Ă€RZHUV LQ WKH 1RUWK DQG forest  life  motives  in  the  Lanna  style  in  the  West  and  South. The  temple’s  interior  is  certainly  impressive  and  an  excellent  example  of  Tai  Lue  architecture.  The  structure  of  the  roof  is  supported  by  12  teak  pillars  decorated  with  gold  on  lacquer  and  elephants  motives;Íž  the  ceiling  is  DOVR ÂżQHO\ GHFRUDWHG 7KH Ă€RZHUHG altar  resting  in  the  center  of  the  WHPSOH VXSSRUWV IRXU %XGGKDV RI WKH  Sukhothai  style,  facing  in  four   directions.  The  shape  of  the  ears  and  QRVH VKRZV D /DR LQĂ€XHQFH

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WKLOH WKH VSLULWXDO %XGGKLVW story  of  Nan  is  located  at  the  center  of  the  temple  via  the  exquisite  pillar,  the  stories  of  down-­to-­earth  Nan  locals  are  placed  on  the  wall.  Well  preserved  murals  of  great  value  illustrating  the  Khattana  Kumara  Jakata  are  on  the  Northern  wall  and  the  Nimi  Jatakas  are  on  the  Western  wall  as  well  as  scenes  of  the  local  life  of  the  time  when  they  were  painted  by  Thai  Lue  artists  during  the  restoration  of  the  temple  at  the  end  of  the  19th  century.  The  mural  paintings  illustrate  the  evidences  of  local  lives  in  the  past;Íž  a  man  visiting  a  woman’s  house,  women  spinning  cotton  thread,  hill  tribe  people  containing  wild  products  for  bartering  with  people  in  the  town  and  much  more.  In  the  paint-­ LQJV ZH FDQ ÂżQG ZRPHQ ZHDULQJ phasin  (wrap-­around  skirt)  in  the  traditional  patterns  which  are  pha-­ sin  lai  nam  and  phasin  tin  jok;Íž  the  unique  patterns  of  Tai  Lue.       Â

Europeans  can  even  be  noticed:  a  reference  to  the  arrival  of  the  French  to  whom  the  East  of  the  Nan  valley  area  was  yielded  in  1893.  The  two  most  fa-­ mous  scenes  are  of  greater  dimensions  than  the  majority  of  the  other  paintings:  a  man  whispering  to  the  ear  of  a  woman  (on  the  Southern  side  of  the  Western  door)  and  the  portrait  painted  on  the  side  of  the  Southern  door,  which  could  EH .LQJ &KDR $QDQWD 9RUD 5LWWKL 'HW 7KH ODUJH SDLQWLQJV RQ HDFK VLGH RI WKH PDLQ HQWUDQFH VKRZ D &KLQHVH LQĂ€XHQFH ZKLFK FDQ EH H[SODLQHG E\ WKH RULJLQV of  the  Thai  Lue  people.

Above: The mural inside Wat Phumin shows westerners came to Lanna in the late 18th century Below: The charming Buddha images in the ubosot of Wat Phumin

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The  style  is  rather  distinctive  and  quite  removed  from  the  traditional  style  of  temple  paintings  in  Thailand.  They  somewhat  resemble  the  style  of  the  murals  of  Wat  Phra  Singh  Temple  in  Chiang  Mai.  The  setting  of  the  murals  at  Wat  Phumin  however,  is  that  of  the  culture  and  everyday  life  of  the  Tai  Lue  people.  If  you  are  impressed  by  these  mural  stories,  we  recom-­ mend  heading  40km  to  the  north  of  the  city  to  Wat  Nong  %XD LQ 7KD :DQJ 3KD GLVWULFW WKH PXUDOV KHUH DUH YHU\ much  like  those  housed  in  Wat  Phumin.  Wat  Nong  Bua  was  also  constructed  by  Tai  Lue  peo-­ SOH LQ DQG WKH PXUDO SDLQWLQJV LQ WKLV WHPSOH ZHUH possibly  made  by  the  same  artists  that  worked  on  Wat  3KXPLQ 7KH YLOODJH VXUURXQGLQJ 1RQJ %XD LV LQKDELWHG by  Tai  Lue  people  who  emigrated  from  the  Sipsongpanna  UHJLRQ RI VRXWKHUQ <XQQDQ LQ 1XPHURXV 7DL /XH people  came  to  inhabit  the  Nan  valley  after  Kawila,  a  lo-­ cal  ruler  in  the  late  18th  century,  raided  southern  Yunnan  areas  to  repopulate  the  eastern  regions  of  Lanna  Tai.  To-­ day,  the  village  continues  to  retain  much  of  its  traditional  culture,  including  distinctive  Tai  Lue  textiles  which  are  produced  by  locals.   Â

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â€ƒăƒŠăƒŠć™‚䝣㠎ç”ˇć€§ă Œ弳ć€§ă Ťč€łć‰“ă Ąă —ă Śă „ă‚‹ćœ‰ĺ??ă Şçľľă Żă€ ăƒŠăƒźăƒłă Ťç”ąć?Ľă ™ ă‚‹ă€‚ăƒ ă‚§ăƒłăƒžă‚¤ă ‹ă‚‰ďź“ďź’ďź?ă‚­ăƒ­ć?ąă ¸ă€ ăƒŠă‚Şă‚šă ¨ă Žĺ›˝ĺ˘ƒčż‘ă ?ă Ťă ‚ă‚‹é?™ă ‹ă Şă “ ă Žç”şă Ťă Żă€ ăƒŚăƒ‹ăƒźă‚Żă Şć–‡ĺŒ–ă ¨ĺ¤šă ?ă Žé şç”Łă‚’ćŒ 㠤寺ă Œă ‚ă‚Šă€ ă ?㠎寺㠎ĺ˘ƒĺ†…ă Ť ă Żă ™ă °ă‚‰ă —ă „ĺŁ ç”ťă Œ茳ă‚‰ă‚Œă‚‹ă€‚ 町㠎ĺ?—ă Ťă ‚ă‚‹ăƒ—ăƒ&#x;ăƒłĺŻşă Žĺ‰?ă ŽčŠ?ç”&#x;㠯茳ĺ…‰厢 ă‚„ĺœ°ĺ…ƒä˝?ć°‘ă Žăƒ&#x;ăƒźăƒ†ă‚Łăƒłă‚°ăƒ?ă‚¤ăƒłăƒˆă ¨ă —㠌使ç”¨ă •ă‚Œă€ ä¸€čˆŹă Ťĺ…Źé–‹ă •ă‚Œă Śă „ る。寺㠎外茳㠯壎大㠧㠯㠪ă „ă Œă€ ĺ†…čŁ…ă Żĺ?°čąĄçš„ă §ă ™ă °ă‚‰ă —ă „ă‚żă‚¤ăƒŤăƒźć§˜ĺź? 坺築㠎一䞋㠧も㠂る。寺㠎中ĺżƒă Ťă Żäť?ć•™ă Žç‰ŠčŞžă Œă ‚ă‚Šă€ ĺŁ ç”ťă Ťă Żäşşă€…ă Žç”&#x; ć´ťă Œć??ă ‹ă‚Œă Śă „ă‚‹ă€‚ĺŁ ç”ťă Ťčˆˆĺ‘łă Žă ‚ă‚‹ć–šă Ťă Żă€ ďź”ďź™ă‚­ăƒ­ĺŒ—ă Žă‚żăƒŻăƒłăƒ‘ĺœ°ĺŒş 㠍㠂る〠ĺ?Œă ˜ă ?ă‚żă‚¤ăƒŤăƒźă Žäşşă€…ă Ťă‚ˆă Łă Śĺťşă Śă‚‰ă‚Œă€ ăƒ—ăƒ&#x;ăƒłĺŻşă ¨ĺ?Œă ˜ç”ťĺŽśă ŒĺŁ 甝をć??ă „ă &#x;ă ¨ć€?ă‚?ă‚Œă‚‹ăƒŽăƒłăƒ–ă‚˘ĺŻşă‚‚ă Šĺ‹§ă‚ ă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚

Above: The mural inside Wat Nong Bua shows the semblable style like the murals Wat Phumin Below: In the early morning in front of Wat Phumin

How to get there From Chiang Mai, two airlines operate flights: Kan Airlines operate on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday. Call 0 2551 6111 or visit: www.kanairlines.com. Nok Mini Airlines operates Chiang Mai – Nan flight daily. Call 0 5328 0444 or visit: www.nokmini.com. Green Bus also operates economy and VIP buses daily from the Arcade Bus Station, Chiang Mai. For Nan tourist information, contact 0 5371 7433 (TAT Northern region, Section 2)

42

AROUND US . わたしたちの周りで Text: Naruepakorn Manewan Photo: Apple Tree

%$&. STREET ARTISTS バックストリートアーティスト )URP -XQN 3DLQWV WR &KLDQJ 0DL 'RZQWRZQ 6WUHHW $UW

AROUND US

The cute graffiti murals on the wall of Baan Thammapakorn Nursing House, Bamrungburi Road, Chiang Mai downtown

43

44

AROUND US . ă‚?ă &#x;ă —ă &#x;㠥㠎周り㠧

“I’m  the  f*cking  father  of  the  planet,â€?  â€œThe  place  for  dog’s  pee,  andâ€?  â€œTum  loves  Oat,â€?  are  examples  of  inane  (Thai)  comments  sprayed  or  penned  on  the  walls  of  deserted  buildings,  public  restrooms,  govern-­ ment  properties,  often  by  students  of  some  vocational  college  and  those  who  simply  enjoy  being  controversial.  These  examples  of  what  can  be  described  as  mindless  vandalism,  although  regrettable,  were  perhaps  what  gave  street  artists  the  platform  to  brighten  up  the  abandoned  places  around  towns  across  the  country. *UDIÂżWL LV WKH VXEVHW RI VWUHHW DUW DQG WKH QDPH IRU LPDJHV RU OHWWHULQJ scratched,  scrawled,  painted  or  marked  in  any  manner  on  a  property.  It  can  be  used  to  refer  to  any  type  of  public  markings  that  may  appear  in  WKH IRUPV RI VLPSOH ZULWWHQ ZRUGV WR HODERUDWH ZDOO SDLQWLQJV *UDIÂżWL has  existed  since  ancient  times,  with  examples  dating  back  to  Ancient  Greek  of  Ephesus  (in  modern-­day  Turkey).  There  is  an  ancient  form  RI JUDIÂżWL KHUH ORFDO JXLGHV VD\ LV DQ DGYHUWLVHPHQW IRU SURVWLWXWLRQ ,Q PRGHUQ WLPHV JUDIÂżWL KDV HYROYHG LQWR D SRS FXOWXUH H[LVWHQFH often  related  to  underground  hip  hop  music,  b-­boy,  and  an  X-­treme  OLIHVW\OH *UDIÂżWL LV DOVR XVHG IRU JDQJV WR PDUN WKHLU WHUULWRU\ RU WR VHUYH DV DQ LQGLFDWRU RU ÂľWDJÂś IRU JDQJ UHODWHG DFWLYLW\ 0RGHUQ JUDIÂżWL was  widely  known  in  the  public  through  the  paintings  on  the  subway  RI 1HZ <RUN 'XULQJ :RUOG :DU ,, DQG IRU GHFDGHV DIWHU WKH SKUDVH “Kilroy  was  hereâ€?  with  an  accompanying  illustration  was  widespread  WKURXJKRXW WKH ZRUOG GXH WR LWV XVH E\ $PHULFDQ WURRSV DQG LWV ÂżOWHULQJ into  American  popular  culture.  Street  art  came  to  Thailand  with  hip  hop  culture  around  18  years  DJR 7KH PXVLF EURXJKW VWUHHW FXOWXUH WR %DQJNRN WRR 6LQFH WKHQ IRUPV of  spraying  and  paintings  in  public  have  been  developed  into  stylish  signatures  and  storytelling  pictures.

AROUND US

45

Photo: makkeboo

Âł1DWXUDOO\ ZKHQ , ÂżUVW VWDUWHG RXW around  10  years  ago,  people  weren’t  WRR LPSUHVVHG ´ 3LFKDL %RRQFRRP\RX WKH &KLDQJ 0DL QDWLYH JUDIÂżWL VDLG As  at  that  time  he  was  still  an  amateur  and  street  art  was  a  foreign  concept  to  the  Chiang  Mai  natives.  Though  his   creations  were  done  on  deserted   properties  â€œPeople  still  considered  the  activity  related  to  gangsters,â€?  he  said.  â€œCities  that  welcome  street  art  often  have  a  diverse  art  and  culture,  DQG WKHLU FLWL]HQV DUH FUHDWLYH ´ 3LFKDL FRQÂżUPHG DQG ZHQW RQ WR VD\ WKDW the  term  street  art  can  apply  to  any  art  made  in  public  spaces  including  WUDGLWLRQDO JUDIÂżWL VWHQFLO VWLFNHU DUW wheat-­pasting  and  poster,  plus  video  SURMHFWLRQ Ă€DVK PREELQJ DQG VWUHHW installations.  Artists  have  challenged  art  by  situating  their  works  in  non-­art  circumstances  and  do  not  aspire  to  FKDQJH WKH GHÂżQLWLRQ RI DQ DUWZRUN but  rather  to  question  the  existing  en-­ vironment  with  its  own  language.  They  attempt  to  communicate  to  the  public  about  socially  relevant  themes  in  ways  that  are  informed  by  esthetic  values.  Apart  from  being  the  express  sign  of  artists,  street  art  is  also  used  for  commercial  advertising  by  many  worldwide  companies,  generating  huge  sums  of  money,  as  in  the  case  with  %DQNV\ &HV 0HW %HQRWH 3L[QLW DQG 3 LQ 7KDLODQG

Chiang  Mai  is  known  for  its  street  artworks  in  various  styles  created  by  both  foreign  artists  who  visit  the  city  and  local  painters.  You  can  see  them  at  the  deserted  areas  behind  6XULZRQJ %RRN &HQWHU .DPSKDHQJ 'LQ 5RDG EHKLQG 6XDQ %XDN +DDG Park,  the  wall  of  Thammapakorn  1XUVLQJ +RXVH RQ %DPUXQJEXUL 5RDG (at  the  corner  of  Chiang  Mai  moat),  WKH IRRW RI ,URQ %ULGJH 6HH 6FDSH Gallery  (Nimmanhaemin  Road)  and  around  town. Â

Highway Art Mostly  found  in  trucks  and  privately  owned  shuttle  buses  that  are  available  for  rental  in  provinces,  the  airbrush  paintings  (not  the  above  photo)   illustrate  comic  stories,  cartoons  or  beautiful  vivid  paintings  such  as  those  found  in  street  art.  Some  say  they  are  a  low  form  of  art;Íž  but  the  unique  character  of  provincial  art  in  Thailand  made  up  of  vivid,  cheerful  and  funny  scenes  adds  something  special  to  the  highway  streets  throughout  the  country.  ăƒ?ă‚¤ă‚Śă‚§ă‚¤ă‚˘ăƒźăƒˆ â€ƒéŤ˜é€&#x;é “衯㠧čŚ‹ă ‹ă ‘ă‚‹ăƒˆăƒŠăƒƒă‚Żă‚„大ă ?㠪茳ĺ…‰

â€ƒĺťƒćŁ„ăƒ“ăƒŤă‚„é›ťć&#x;ąă€ ĺ…ŹčĄ†ăƒˆă‚¤ăƒŹă Şă Šă Ťă‚šăƒ—ăƒŹăƒź

厢用ăƒ?ă‚šă ŤéŽŽă‚„ă ‹ă Ťăƒšă‚¤ăƒłăƒˆă •ă‚Œă &#x;çľľă‚‚ĺŁ ç”ť

ă‚„ă‚ŤăƒŠăƒźăƒšăƒłă §ĺ¤šă ?㠎錏隿ă ’ă &#x;č?˝ć›¸ă ?を茋㠋

㠎一税㠨č¨€ă ˆă‚‹ă ă‚?ă †ă€‚ă‚łăƒĄăƒ‡ă‚Łă‚˘ăƒłă Žă‚šăƒˆăƒź

ă ‘ă‚‹ă Œă€ ćœ€čż‘㠧㠯ă ?ă‚Œă‚‰ă Œă‚ŻăƒźăƒŤă Şă‚šăƒˆăƒŞăƒźăƒˆ

ăƒŞăƒźă‚„柍甝や瞎㠗ă ?鎎ă‚„ă ‹ă Şçľľă Œć??ă ‹ă‚Œă Śă „

ă‚˘ăƒźăƒˆă Ťă Şă Łă Śă „ă‚‹ă€‚ ă “ă‚Œă‚‰ă Žçľľç”ťă‚’ç?†解㠙る

ă‚‹ă€‚čŠ¸čĄ“ć€§ă Œä˝Žă „ă ¨ă „ă †äşşă‚‚ă „ă‚‹ă Œă€ ă “ă‚Œă‚‚ăƒŚ

ă Ťă Żă€Œă‚°ăƒŠăƒ•ăƒ†ă‚Łă€?ă‚’ç&#x;Ľă‚‹ĺż…čŚ ă Œă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ ă‚°ăƒŠăƒ•ăƒ†

ăƒ‹ăƒźă‚Żă §ćĽ˝ă —ă „ă‚żă‚¤ă Žă‚­ăƒŁăƒŠă‚Żă‚żăƒźă Žă ˛ă ¨ă ¤

ă‚Łă Żĺ…Źĺ…ąă Žĺ ´ă Ťć–‡ĺ­—ă‚’çľľç”ťă Žă‚ˆă †ă Ťć??ă „ă &#x;ă‚‚

ă ¨ă‚‚č¨€ă ˆă‚‹ă€‚

㠎㠧〠ĺ?¤ă ?ă ŻăƒˆăƒŤă‚łă Ťç”ąć?Ľă ™ă‚‹ă€‚čż‘䝣㠧㠯ă‚˘ăƒĄăƒŞ ă‚Ťă Žăƒ’ăƒƒăƒ—ăƒ›ăƒƒăƒ—ć–‡ĺŒ–㠍役é&#x;żă •ă‚Œă€ ă‚ŽăƒŁăƒłă‚° 㠎洝動㠎一環〠㠞ă &#x;ă Żăƒ†ăƒŞăƒˆăƒŞăƒźă‚’襨ă ™ ă‚‚㠎㠨㠪㠣㠌㠄る。 ă‚żă‚¤ă Ťă Żďź‘ďź˜ĺš´ĺ‰?ă Ť TKOă‚„ă‚¸ăƒ§ă‚¤ăƒœăƒźă‚¤ă Şă Šă Žăƒ’ăƒƒăƒ—ăƒ›ăƒƒ ăƒ—é&#x;łćĽ˝ă ¨ĺ…ąă Ťă‚šă‚żă‚¤ăƒŞăƒƒă‚ˇăƒĽă ŞĺŁ ç”ťă Œ 始㠞㠣ă &#x;ă€‚ăƒ ă‚§ăƒłăƒžă‚¤ă Žă‚šăƒˆăƒŞăƒźăƒˆă‚˘ăƒź ăƒ†ă‚Łă‚šăƒˆăƒ”ăƒ ăƒŁă‚¤ć°?ă Żă€ ćœ€ĺˆ?ă Żăƒ?ă‚Źăƒ†ă‚Ł ăƒ–ă Şĺ?°čąĄă‚’ćŒ ă &#x;ă‚Œă Œă Ąă ă Łă &#x;㠨言㠆。 ă — 㠋㠗〠民襆㠨㠎ă‚łăƒ&#x;ăƒĽăƒ‹ă‚ąăƒźă‚ˇăƒ§ăƒłă Žĺ ´ă § ă‚‚ă ‚ă‚Šă€ ă‚˘ăƒźăƒˆăƒŻăƒźă‚Żă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă ¨č¨€ă †ă€‚

Above photo on the left page: taken from the deserted area behind Suriwong Book Store Below photo on the left page: taken from the foot of Iron Bridge

46

THAI TALKS .  タイトーク Text: Boonmee Sriboonrueng Photo: www.wikipedia.com

日本の板目木版画とポルノ 伝統的なポルノ画像の履歴

タイの画家たちは、王室や仏教に支援されてい

ノの一種として春画は誤解を招く可能性はある

るため、古代絵画の多くは仏教にまつわる作品で

が、それはアーティストとしての威信を損なうも

ある。カラマストラと呼ばれる性的な絵が描かれ

のではなかった。

た個人印刷本は数冊しかなかった。印刷業界が公

春画は古代中国で薬の説明書のイラストとし

になると、ポルノは雑誌として出版されるようにな

て描かれたものを起源とする。中国唐の偉大な

る（最近では主にインターネット）。 ともかく、タイ

エロティックな画家、周牙も、大きな影響を及ぼ

でポルノが放送されるようになったのはわずか５

していると考えられている。彼は当時の多くの官

０年前だが、 タイよりももっとシャイな国、 日本は、

能的な芸術家と同じように、生殖器やトポスの大

タイよりもはるか先を行っている。

きさを誇張する傾向がみられた。 日本では、春画

春画は主に木版印刷で製作されるエロティッ

は平安時代にさかのぼる。 この時点では春画は

ク芸術である。まれにだが、浮世絵の動きに先行

宮廷クラスのみに限定されていたが、絵巻物語

した手書きのものも現存する。春画を文字通り翻

によって朝廷や修道院のスキャンダルが描かれ

訳すると 「春の絵」だが、 「春」はセックスの婉曲表

た。政府が春画を抑制させるよう何度も試みた

現でもある。

ため、春画は潜行的となった。

浮世絵の全体の動きは、現代社会の理想的な

明治時代の始まり （1868-1912）、西洋文化と

生活を描くものであった。日常生活の美学に続い

技術の導入、特に写真の再生技術により、春画

て、江戸時代（1603∼1868）春画は、 フォームをで

は大きな影響を受けた。 しばらく春画は印刷さ

きるだけ多くの様々な性的道徳観の表現を模索し

れたが、人物の服装や髪型は西洋化し、次第に

てきたため、異性愛者、同性愛者、老いも若きも、

低下していった。

広い範囲で描かれていた。幕府からは好まれなか

最近のアダルトビデオやウェブサイトのほと

ったが、富める者も貧しい者も、男性、女性を問わ

んどが日本の成人娯楽である。春画は伝統的

ず親しまれた。ほぼすべての浮世絵アーティスト

な美術コレクションとなり、高価な価格で販売

が自分のキャリアのある時点で春画を作り、ポル

されている。

47

50 GIFT IDEAS

. ギフトアイデア Text & Photo: Passport to Suvannaphoum

STREET IN STYLE Price: 30,000 Baht each Material: Oil spray on canvas by Alex Face Size: 80 x 80 cm.

Preduce Preduce is the new street outfits and skateboard shop, located opposite Tha Pae Gate next to Imm Hotel and McDonald. Open daily 11 a.m. - 9 p.m. 19/4-5 Kotchasarn Road T. Chang Klan, Muang Chiang Mai Tel. 08 2901 7890, www.preduce.com

GIFT IDEAS

2

1

5

3

4

1. Cement Painting Elephant Doll Price: 350 Baht Phetpaiboon Gallery, Ban Tawai Hang Dong district, Chiang Mai Tel. 0 5343 0479 or www.facebook.com/phetpaiboon 2. Painting Kungfu Shoes Price: start at 100 Baht Size: any sizes for both men and women Create by Saenpol Kaewrai Tel. 08 1973 9135, 08 1379 0793 3. Nokhook Design T-Shirt Price: 300 Baht Material: Cotton Nokhook Design 50 Rachamankha Rd., Soi 6 T. Phra Singh, Muang Chiang Mai Tel. 053814622 or www.nokhookdesign.net

4. Manee Backpack by Rubber Killer Price: 1,200 Baht Material: inner tubes of truck, car belt and canvas Size: L 420/ W 160 h./ 460 mm. Rubber Killer Nimmanhaemin Rd., Soi 11 Muang distrcit Chiang Mai Tel. 08 2381 6644 or www.facebook.com/rubberkiller 5. Poy Sang Long Painting by Vichit Chaiwong Price: Check out at Vichit Studio Material: Oil color on canvas Size: 40 x 50 cm. Vichit Studio Chiang Mai - San Kamphaeng Rd., San Kamphaeng district Tel. 0 5339 2733, 08 1882 5091 or www.vichitstudio.com

51

52

SLEEP . ç?Ąçœ Text: Passport to Suvannaphoum Photo: Apple Tree

THE Â TWENTY Â LODGE

The  Cute  Downtown  Boutique  Lodge

Located  in  the  heart  of  Chiang  Mai,  the  Twenty  Lodge  is  a  pretty  boutique-­hotel  with  20  rooms  (18   superior  rooms  and  2  deluxe  rooms)  on  Singharaj  Road,  in  the  vicinity  of  Suan  Dok  Gate,  the  City  Moat,  Wat  Phra  Singh  and  Sunday  Walking  Street.  The  lemon  green  British  vintage  building  is  situated  beside  a  small  shady  garden  with  tranquil  swimming  pool  and  a  beautiful  white  building  housing  the  JXHVW URRPV ÂżWQHVV FHQWHU EDU DQG other  facilities.   Inside  the  spacious  guestrooms,  the  minimalist  decoration  plus   British  vintage  furniture  and  modern   facilities  make  the  room  appropriate  for  a  good  rest;Íž  whilst  the  extended   deluxe  room  offers  an  impressive  40m2  with  42â€?  widescreen/satellite  TV  and  more  modern  amenities. Â

However  it’s  the  services  and   hospitality  that  are  the  best  features  of  the  Twenty  Lodge;Íž  whatever   requests  a  hotel  guest  makes,  they  are   considered  as  a  top  priority  and  the  staff’s   professionalism  ensures  all  guests’   concerns  are  dealt  with  promptly.  The  hotel  also  provides  extra  services  for  your  comfort  such  as  car  parking,  car  rental,  concierge  service,  Wi-­Fi  internet,  laundry  service  and  medical  services.           The  Lodge  has  a  peaceful  and  very  private  atmosphere  surrounded  by  a  local  residential  area  and  is  appropriate  for  travelers  seeking  comfort  and  style  at  reasonable  prices. Â

ă‚śăƒťďź’ďź?ăƒ­ăƒƒă‚¸âˆ’ăƒ€ă‚Śăƒłă‚żă‚Śăƒłă Žă ‹ă‚? ă „ă „ăƒ–ăƒ†ă‚Łăƒƒă‚ŻĺŽż â€ƒďź’ďź?㠎厢厤ă‚’ćŒ ă ¤ă ‹ă‚?ă „ă „ăƒ–ăƒ†ă‚Łăƒƒă‚Żăƒ›ăƒ† ăƒŤă Œă‚šăƒŻăƒłăƒ‰ăƒƒă‚Żé–€ă Žčż‘ă ?ă Ťă‚Şăƒźăƒ—ăƒłă€‚ă‚¤ă‚ŽăƒŞ

The 20 Lodge 8/3 Soi 3 Singharaj Rd., T. Sriphum, Muang Chiang Mai Tel. 0 5332 6322 or website: www.the20lodge.com

ă‚šăƒ´ă‚Łăƒłăƒ†ăƒźă‚¸ă Žĺťşç‰Šă ŤĺżŤé Šă Şăƒ—ăƒźăƒŤă‚„ăƒ? ăƒźă Şă Šă ŒĺŽŒĺ‚™ă€‚厢厤㠍㠯ă‚¤ă‚ŽăƒŞă‚šăƒ´ă‚Łăƒłăƒ†ăƒź ă‚¸ĺŽśĺ…ˇă‚„ăƒŻă‚¤ăƒ‰ă‚šă‚ŻăƒŞăƒźăƒłă‚ľăƒ†ăƒŠă‚¤ăƒˆăƒ†ăƒŹăƒ“ ă ¨ăƒ˘ăƒ€ăƒłă Şé€ ă‚Šă€‚ ă‚šă‚żăƒƒăƒ•ă Žăƒ›ă‚šăƒ”ă‚żăƒŞăƒ†ă‚Łă‚‚ 㠙㠰ら㠗ă ?ă€ ă‚ŤăƒźăƒŹăƒłă‚żăƒŤă‚„ăƒŠăƒłăƒ‰ăƒŞăƒźă Şă Šă Ž ă‚ľăƒźăƒ“ă‚šă‚‚ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚

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DINING .  ダイニング

Text & Photo: Passport to Suvannaphoum

DELIGHT WITH THE INTERNATIONAL TASTES AROUND CHIANG MAI

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1. DAILYCIOUS CAFE

Dailycious is like a one-stop-shop cafe that offers you a stylish hangout with a selection of coffees and homemade baked goods, plus large meals for breakfast until dinner; it is a place suitable for family dining and teenagers to meet up. For a light drink, we recommend the Mango Smoothie whilst the Rainbow salad with salmon and 3 different dressings is nice for an appetizer. The Panini Eggcellent is the humorously named, but delicious, Italian grilled sandwich dish and Texas Chili is a spicy meat curry in tomato soup; good to try with breads. Homemade pizza is also recommended. The restaurant is located near Central Plaza Chiang Mai Airport in Nim City Daily. Open daily 8 a.m. - 9 p.m. Nim City Daily, Mahidol Rd. Muang Chiang Mai Tel. 08 4515 3626 or 08 4611 0596

DAILYCIOUS カフェ  コーヒーや自家製焼き菓子に加え、朝食から夕食まで大きなサイズの 食事をもてなす、 スタイリッシュなカフェがセントラルプラザ近くのニム シティにオープン。マンゴースムージーと３つのドレッシングで楽しめる レインボーサラダとサーモンは前菜にお勧め。イタリアングリルサンド イッチ、テキサスミートカレー、 自家製ピザもお勧めの品。

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2. LONG MA DU RESTAURANT

This may sound like a French restaurant, when in fact Long Madu translates as ‘come to try’ in Thai; a welcoming name for a homemade-style restaurant, featuring a cozy and friendly atmosphere as if dining at home with dishes cooked by your talented mom. The restaurant’s chef selects only good quality ingredients for the dishes and when combined with the great recipes of the Bunnag family (ancient Thai aristocracy), the result is excellent. Recommended is the Green Curry with Roti and Spiced Rice Steamed with Chicken; many Islamic dishes are also worth trying. The restaurant is located in the pretty garden house in Chindaniwet Village, Nong Hoi. Open daily 11 a.m. - 9 p.m. Chindaniwet Village, Chiang Mai – Lamphun Rd., Nong Hoi Tel. 08 1783 4165

ロングマドゥレストラン  「ロングマドゥ」はタイ語で「来て試してみる」 という意味で、歓迎の意 味をこめたホームメイドスタイルレストラン。 フレンドリーな雰囲気で、 才能のあるお母さんが家でご飯を作ってくれているかのようだ。厳選さ れた素材で作られ、特にグリーンカレーとロティ、 スパイスライスと蒸し チキンがお勧め。多くのイスラム料理もぜひお試しを。

3. IMPERIAL SHABU RESTAURANT

Imperial Shabu Restaurant has been opened for over ten years, and is located on the first floor of the Imperial Mae Ping Hotel, Chiang Mai. Though the restaurant is simple in its decoration, the cuisine here is superb. Like the high standard of the hotel, the restaurant is clean and convenient, and its atmosphere is friendly for hanging out with your friends and a few shabu-shabu dishes. The restaurant offers a wide range of sauces, whilst the pork, chicken, seafood and more are brought in fresh on a daily basis. It also provides an abundant selection of appetizers such as sushi, tempura and more. The restaurant also serves a special monthly dish. Price starts at 259 Baht++. Open daily 5.30 – 10 p.m. Sri Donchai Rd. 1st floor Imperial Mae Ping Hotel Tel. 0 5328 3900 website: www.imperialhotels.com

インペリアルしゃぶレストラン  しゃぶしゃぶがチェンマイで人気が出る前に設立されたインペリア ルしゃぶレストランはインペリアルメーピンホテルの１階にあり、創業 １０年になる。 フレンドリーで清潔な場所で新鮮な素材から作るしゃ ぶしゃぶを多くのソースで楽しめる。お寿司や天ぷらなどもある。お値 段は２５９バーツから。

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TEST TASTE . ĺ‘łă Žăƒ†ă‚šăƒˆ Text: Adithep Nuamcherm Photo: Apple Tree

AS  ART  AS  ITSELF  @  Le  Beaulieu  Restaurant   čŠ¸čĄ“ă ?ă Žă‚‚ă Žďź La BeaulieuăƒŹă‚šăƒˆăƒŠăƒł

France  is  famous  throughout  the  world  for  its  food.  It  is  said  that  creating  French  cuisine  is  an  art  form,  and  if  a  chef  is  an  artist  a   restaurant  would  be  the  gallery.  Le  Beaulieu  Restaurant  is  the  new  luxury  gallery  of  French  art  in  Chiang  Mai.  Le  Beaulieu  is  the  progeny  of  the  renowned  Le  Beaulieu,  Bang-­ kok,  and  the  chefs  in  Chiang  Mai  are  the  protĂŠgĂŠs  of  Chef  Herve   Frerard.  Located  in  Chiang  Mai  Land  Â

Soi  7,  Chang  Klan  Road,  this   restaurant  was  developed  from  a  cozy  house  making  the  ambience  friendly,   simple  and  private.  An  outdoor  bar  has  been  added  to  the  house  manned  by  a  bartender  with  over  30  years   experience  working  in  5  star  hotels. An  impressive  collection  of  oil  paintings  suit  the  pleasant  ambience  of  the  restaurant,  but  it  is  the  food  that  is  truly  exquisite.  Carnerroli  Risotto  &  Grilled   Scallop  with  Lemon  Emulsion,  for   H[DPSOH LV D ÂżQH VWDUWHU DV LV WKH 3DQ Fried  Soulard  Duck  Liver,  Poached  Pear  &  Raspberries  in  Port  Wine,   where  the  mellow  taste  of  wine  on  the  grilled  duck  liver  is  superb.  For  the  mains,   Slow-­Cooked  Beef  Cheek   Burgundy  Style,  Carrot  Vichy  &  Italian  Pars-­ ley  and  the  Roasted  Australian  Lamb  Rack  &  Provencal  Herbs,  Rosemary  &  Lemon  Jus  are  stand-­out  items, Â

either  of  which  can  be  completed  by  a  desert  of  Apple  Tart  &  Vanilla  Ice  Cream.  Continuing  the  art  theme,the  waiters  are  akin  to  curators,  knowledgeable  and  attentive  about  their  establishment  and   its  works  of  art.  Prices  here  are  also  highly   reasonable,  so  make  sure  to  pay  it  a  visit.  Â

â€ƒăƒ•ăƒŠăƒłă‚šć–™ç?†ă ŻčŠ¸čĄ“ă §ă ‚ă‚Šă€ ă‚ˇă‚§ăƒ•ă ŻčŠ¸čĄ“厜〠料ç?†ă ŻčŠ¸čĄ“ä˝œĺ“ ă€ ăƒŹă‚šăƒˆăƒŠ ăƒłă Żă‚ŽăƒŁăƒŠăƒŞăƒźă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă ¨č¨€ă‚?ă‚Œă‚‹ă€‚La BeaulieuăƒŹă‚šăƒˆăƒŠăƒłă Żăƒ ă‚§ăƒłăƒžă‚¤ă ŽéŤ˜ ç´šăƒ•ăƒŠăƒłă‚šă‚˘ăƒźăƒˆă‚ŽăƒŁăƒŠăƒŞăƒźă ¨ă‚‚č¨€ă ˆă‚‹ă ă‚?ă †ă€‚ăƒ ă‚§ăƒłăƒžă‚¤ăƒŠăƒłăƒ‰é€šă‚Šďź—ă Ťä˝? 罎㠗〠ĺ°?ă •㠪厜ă‚’ăƒ•ăƒŹăƒłăƒ‰ăƒŞăƒźă §ă‚ˇăƒłăƒ—ăƒŤă Ťé€ ă‚Šĺ¤‰ă ˆă &#x;ă€ ăƒ—ăƒŠă‚¤ăƒ™ăƒźăƒˆ㠪犺 間。五㠤ć˜&#x;ăƒ›ăƒ†ăƒŤă §ďź“ďź?ĺš´ă‚‚ă ŽçľŒé¨“ă‚’ćŒ ă ¤ăƒ?ăƒźăƒ†ăƒłăƒ€ăƒźă Œä˝œă‚‹ă‚Ťă‚Żăƒ†ăƒŤă Ż ć źĺˆĽă€‚ć–™ç?†ă‚‚ă Šă‚Œă‚‚čˆŒéź“ă‚’ć‰“ă ¤ăƒ•ăƒŠăƒłă‚šć–™ç?†ă Žć•°ă€…。㠊値掾も㠊手㠔ă‚?ă Ş ă Žă §ă œă ˛ă Š芌㠗を。

Le Beaulieu Restaurant 428/8-9 Chiang Mai Land Soi 7 Chang Klan Rd., Muang Chiang Mai Tel. 0 5328 4488

COME - ON RESIDENCE ࠞࡕࡦ࡮࡟ࠫ࠺ࡦ࠻

Nestling amidst lush garden in a quiet corner of an old Chiang Mai, Come On Residence awaits for your coming to experience tranquility and comfort as you were home.

15/26 Bumroongburi Rd., T.Phrasingh, Chiang Mai Thailand. Tel. 0 5327 8936 E-mail: comeon@loxinfo.co.th See Inner Chiang Mai Map D1

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RECIPE . レシピ Text: Tengoku De Cuisine Photo: Apple Tree

EGGPLANTS WITH MISO SAUCE Eggplants with Miso Sauce is both a Japanese snack and appetizer. It is also one of the most popular appetizers of Tengoku De Cuisine, the well-­known premium Japanese restaurant in Chiang Mai. With high quality ingredients and a special recipe from the restaurant, this dish is exquisite. It’s also not complicated to make and the ingredients can be found at the supermarket so it can easily be recreated at your home.

INGREDIENTS;; One big eggplant, vegetable oil, Japanese Salt Soya Beans, Sake and sugar METHODS;; 1. Clean the eggplant and split it into pieces 2. Heat the vegetable oil and add the eggplants. Maintain a medium heat and fry the eggplants until they turn yellow, which should take about 8 minutes. 3. Take the eggplants out of the pan, and drain the oil. Mix the salt soya beans with sake and sugar to make the miso sauce. 4. Pour the sauce onto the fried eggplants and serve. 茄子と味噌ソース 茄子と味噌ソースは日本の軽食でもあり前菜でもある。チェンマイでよく 知られるてんごくDe Cuisine日本料理店の一番人気のある前菜である。高級 素材を使ったレストランのレシピは極上の一品。簡単にスーパーで材料が手 に入るのでご家庭でも簡単にできる。

材料： 大きいなす、サラダ油、味噌、酒、砂糖

調理法： １．茄子を洗い、いくつかに切り分ける。 ２．サラダ油をフライパンで熱し、なすを入 れる。中火で茄子の色が黄色になるまで炒 める。約８分。 ３．茄子をフライパンから取り出し、油を 取る。味噌に酒、砂糖を加え、味噌ソース を作る。 ４．炒めた茄子に味噌ソースをかけてでき あがり。

Special Thanks: Tengoku De Cuisine Open daily except Thursday, 11 a.m. - 2.30 p.m. and 5 - 11 p.m. 55/8 M.1 T. Tasala, Muang Chiang Mai (opposite Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi Hotel Chiang Mai) Tel. 0 5385 1133

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. ショッピング Text: Passport to Suvannaphoum Photo: CPN SHOPPING

THE NEW LIFESTYLE DESTINATION IN CHIANG RAI Central Plaza Chiang Rai has Arrived

Finally, the 16

branch of Central Plaza by Central Pattana Public Co. Ltd. has arrived, launched in Chiang Rai. It is doubtless the most modern shopping complex in the northernmost province of the country. Located on Super Highway Road, this 2,400 million Baht property is a low rise building on 52 rai area of land, covering about 110,000 m2. 7KH SOD]D LV VLWXDWHG RQ ÀRRUV ZLWK contemporary Lanna decoration. The DUFKLWHFWXUH DOVR UHÀHFWV WKH HQYLURQ-­ ment of Chiang Rai city with the façade of the plaza decorated with Kasalong blossoms (the iconic tree of Chiang Rai) whilst the roof on WKH QH[W EXLOGLQJ LV LQÀXHQFHG E\ D Lanna style. 7KH SOD]D LV VHW WR IXO¿OO WKH QHZ experience for Chiang Rai people under the CPN’s theme ‘More Re-­ warding Experience’. Not only is it th

a shopping center, the plaza is also a recreational and relaxing place downtown supporting the modern lifestyle of this city. Being in harmony with environ-­ ment, this low rise building contains over 200 brand name shops, plus Robinson, Tops Supermarket, Power Buy, B2S, Super Sport, Major Cineplex and Karaoke. The place is also the center of modern fashion of the city, supported by many worldwide fashion brands. Families can enjoy the plaza by dining at many restaurants inside and around the plaza. Of these, Six Sense Restaurant is well recommended;; this conceptual stylish restaurant also doubles as an art gallery displaying works from famous local artists. Furthermore, the SOD]D KDV D ÀRZHU PDUNHW DQG .DG Luang or Northern local market for local food and souvenirs.

What’s more, the plaza has been built with an environmental conscience, incorporating modern innovations for energy saving. I t i s c a l c u l a t e d t o s a v e electrical energy of 1.4 mil-­ lion units per year, equal to the energy use of 200 families, in addition to a reduction of carbon-­ dioxide emissions of around 800 tons a year. Central Plaza Chiang Rai Tel. 052 020999 website: www.cpn.co.th

セントラルパタナ社によるセントラルプラザ１６号店がチェンライにオープン。世代を問わず多くの人々がシ ョッピングに、 ミーティングスポットにと利用する最もモダンな場所となるのは間違いない。環境に調和するよ うにとチェンライを象徴するカサロンの花でデザインされた外観で、中には２００のブランドショップ、 ロビン ソン、 シネマ、 スタイリッシュなレストラン、北タイのローカルマーケットなどがある。

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GOLF REVIEW .  ゴルフレビュー

Text: Adithep Nuamcherm Photo: Alpine Golf Resort, Chiang Mai

A

LPINE GOLF RESORT AMATEUR OPEN 2011

The Standard Golf Competition for Amateurs

GOLF REVIEW

Left: Taweewat Taweepol, the General Manager of Alpine Golf Resort Right: Nuphat Pluengprasit, the Operation Manager Alpine Golf Resort Chiang Mai is organizing an amateur golf competition, with a top prize of a 4-­days 3-­nights package tour in Indonesia, and hole-­in-­one prize of 100,000 Baht and 5,000,000 Baht insurance policy. There will also be a lucky draw for people to join the winners on their trip. $IWHU WKH ¿UVW FRPSHWLWLRQ KHOG last year received rave reviews from amateur golfers, with the winners heading to Malaysia, Alpine Golf Resort Amateur Open 2011 is back with a bigger and better competition. Taweewat Taweepol, General Manager of Alpine Golf Resort Chiang Mai, hopes that golfers will get an impressive experience and enjoy the challenge of trying to win tickets to play golf at Ria Bintan Golf Resort, Indonesia;; Taweewat assured us that the competition will be very exciting. Located beside the beach, Ria Bintan Golf Club is a 36-­hole championship golf course designed E\ *DU\ 3OD\HU DQG LV LQ WKH RI¿FLDO ranking of the Top 100 golf courses published by Golf Digest Magazine. 5LD %LQWDQ *ROI FOXE FOLQFKHG ¿UVW place in the Asian Golf Monthly Awards 2008 for Best Golf Course in Asia, Best Course in Indonesia and Best Par 4 in Asia. Furthermore, it also houses Club Med Ria Binton, the

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Resort Amateur Open 2011 will kick off on 12th June, and there will be 4 monthly matches on 9th July, 13th $XJXVW DQG WK 6HSWHPEHU 7KH ¿QDO round will be organized in October 2011. Places are limited to 144 golfers per match, and the application fee is 2,500 Baht. Members of GSM, KTC Credit Card and Lipovitan D can enjoy a reduced fee of 1,800 Baht per person. Every competitor will get a complimen-­ tary shirt and cap worth 2,000 Baht. The game’s results are collected by system 36 and calculated by Stableford system. Interested parties can get more information and apply at 0 5388 0888 or www.alpinegolfresort.com.

luxury beachfront activity resort. If you are not a keen golfer, you have the chance to win this prize via a lucky draw in addition to other prizes such as free green fee at Alpine Golf Course. Lipovitan D is also sponsoring the hole-­in-­one prize by putting up a 100,000 Baht reward. Taweewat also said that 2011 is the third year Alpine Golf Resort has served Chiang Mai and worldwide tourists and golfers. The manager said that Alpine Golf Resort plans to expand the alliance of golf courses and other recreation and sport companies in East Asia and South East Asia after the course signed a cooperation campaign with Japan, Malaysia and soon with Singapore. Being a campaign to support Tourism アルプスゴルフリゾートアマチュアオー Authority of Thailand, it will link many プン２０１１ sports, recreations and accommodation  アルプスゴルフリゾートチェンマイがアマチュ companies in Asia to visitors of Alpine アゴルフ大会を開催する。優勝者にはインドネシ Golf Course;; Asian visitors can get アのゴルフツアーと賞金１０万バーツ、５百万バ the chance to experience excellent ーツ相当の保険ポリシーが贈られる。昨年の優勝 JRO¿QJ IDFLOLWLHV DW $OSLQH *ROI 5HVRUW 者にはマレーシアゴルフツアーが贈られ、今年は too. Chiang Mai can also promote its さらに大きな大会となる。６月１２日にスタート charming tourist attractions, art and し、月に一回のペースで７月９日、８月１３日、９ culture and other businesses, especially 月１０日に行われる。 to worldwide golf players, who will be informed that Chiang Mai has many ALPINE GOLF RESORT CHIANG MAI high standard golf courses with great 16 San Kamphaeng – Baan Thi Rd., accommodations. San Kamphaeng district, Chiang Mai Nuphat Pluengprasit, the operation Tel. 0 5388 0888 manager of Alpine Golf Resort Chiang or website: www.alpinegolfresort.com Mai, informed that the Alpine Golf

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CHECK IT OUT チェックしよう

REVITALIZING SPA PACKAGE @ VILLA MAROC RESORT Villa Maroc Resort, the Moroccan boutique resort on Pranbure beach, presents their ‘Revitalizing Spa Package’ which comes with one night’s stay in a Pool Court Room or Pool Villa, a sumptuous daily breakfast for 2 persons at Casablanca Restaurant, and 60 minute spa treatment for 2 persons per stay. The package rate is 9,000 Baht net for a stay in a Pool Court, or upgrade to a breathtaking Pool Villa for 17,000 Baht net. The package is available until 31st October 2011. For more information Tel. 0 3263 0771 or website: www.villamarocresort.com

STEAK PROMOTIONS @ MARCO POLO RESTAURANT Marco Polo Restaurant on the 1st floor, Centara Duangtawan Hotel, offers a special period for steak lovers: a la carte steak menus (t-bone, rib eye, sirloin, lamb chops and other fine grills) start from 170 Baht++ per serving from 11 a.m. - 10.30 p.m. Furthermore, there is a steak buffet corner with Italian and Asian buffet dinner every Monday – Thursday, 6 – 10.30 p.m. at 250 Baht++ per person. For more information Tel. 0 5390 5000 or website:www.centarahotelsresorts.com

THE DUCK THAT’S NOT A DUCK From 1st -30th June, Fujian Restaurant in Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi Hotel is staging the Geoduck Promotion. Far from what its name suggests, Geoduck is a large clam and is actually pronounced ‘gooey-duck’. Considered a gourmet food in Japan and Korea, it’s available for Fujian diners to try at both lunch and dinner, starting from 690 Baht. For those who enjoy premium Chinese cuisine, don’t miss out. Dining hours: 11.30 a.m. - 2.30 p.m. and 6.30 – 10.30 p.m. For more information Tel. 0 5388 8888 or website: www.mandarinoriental.com/chiangmai

CHECK IT OUT

MAMOUNG HOW MANOW HO ICE CREAM @ SMOOCH ANGLE Smooch Angle by Proud Phu Fah Resort is introducing its new ice cream ‘Mamoung How Manow Ho’, a fusion ice cream of mango and lemon, with 0% fat and fresh fruits. Current promotion: order 2 scoops for just 69 Baht (normally 45 Baht per scoop). Try it at 2nd floor, Central Plaza Chiang Mai Airport. What’s more, Proud Phu Fah Resort offers 10% discount for food and rooms from now until 30th September, 2011. For more information Tel. 0 5387 9389, 0 5387 9286 or website: www.proudphufah.com

SPECIAL GIFT @ SIAM ROYAL ORCHID From now until 30th June, purchase up to 1,990 Baht at Siam Royal Orchid Shop, 1st floor Northern Village, Central Plaza Chiang Mai Airport, and get a free the beautiful 100% cotton orchid design hand-screened t-shirt. Furthermore, don’t forget to see the new collections of the unique nature jewelry at its shop and showroom on Charoen Prathet Road. For more information Tel. 0 5324 5598 or website: www.siamroyal.com

GOLDEN CAVIAR FACIAL TREATMENT WITH FREE HOT OIL MASSAGE @ OASIS SPA Oasis Spa offers the age-defying, 60 minute Golden Caviar Facial Treatment for only 2,900 Baht++ plus a FREE Aromatherapy Hot Oil Massage. This hour-long massage will rejuvenate and pamper the rest of your body and leave you feeling soft and silky. The caviar also helps firm your skin and deeply hydrates it with protein and powerful antioxidants to reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Available only at Oasis Spa locations until 30 June. For more information Tel. 0 5392 0121 or website: www.chiangmaioasis.com

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格安ホテル案内

BUBGET HOTEL DIRECTORY

VIANGBUA MANSION

B2 PREMIER HOTEL

COME ON PLACE BED & BREAKFAST

THE XYM BOUTIQUE APARTMENT

This budget hotel offers high standard service like a forefront hotel. There are also swimming pools and Presidential Suite for those who prefers luxury stay. The west side features panoramic view Superior starts at 900 Baht per night, of Doi Suthep. It is also located near Chiang Mai Night Safari and 10 minutes included breakfast. Viang Bua Road, behind Thanin to Chiang Mai Airport. Price starts at 750 Baht per night. Market Tel. 0 5341 1202 or www.viangbua- Canal Rd., T. Suthep Tel. 0 5332 9333 or www.b2hotel.com mansion-chiangmai.com This friendly serviced apartment in Lanna style features high standard of hotel service, hi-speed wireless Internet and other accommodations. It offers both daily and monthly stays.

Located next to Suan Buak Haad Park downtown, this fully furnished guesthouse features tranquil and quiet atmosphere with nice decorations. Price starts at 800 Baht per night. Bamrungburi Rd., T. Phra Singh Tel. 0 5327 8936 or www.comeonplace.net AIRPORT RESIDENT

This is a new boutique apartment located near Chiang Mai Old Cultural Center on Wua Lai Road. See more details of this hotel at SLEEP column. Price starts at 650 Baht, exclude breakfast. Tel. 0 5327 5527-9

This budget but luxury hotel is situated near Chiang Mai International Airport, Central Plaza and Airport Business Park. Price starts at 490 Baht per night. Mahidol Rd., Soi 1, T. Hai Ya THAPAE BOUTIQUE HOUSE Tel. 0 5320 1951 Located on Tha Pae Road, Thaor www.airportresident.com pae Boutique House offers a peacful EURASIA HOTEL surroundings at the heart of Chiang The 32 suites in the main building are Mai old city, opposite Sunday Walking also enclosed with tropical, impressive Street Market gardens and have private balconies. Price starts at 950 Baht a night with Room service, wireless Internet access, breakfast and free WIFI. and posh comfort are staples here. 4 Soi 5 Tha Pae Rd., T.Chang Klan, Price Starts at 850 baht per night Muang Chiang Mai 1 Likkasithradvidhee Road Nong Pakrag Tel. 0 5328 4295 or www.thapaebouMuang, Chiang Mai tiquehouse.com Tel. (66 5) 324 7790-6 Email : chiangmai@eurasiahotels.com

CHIANG MAI BOUTIQUE HOUSE

Managed by XCEED Hotel Group, Chiang Mai Boutique House is a new stylish boutique hotel on Ratchapakhinai Road. The hotel is located Pratu Chiang Mai Market and Saturday Walking Street Market; it offers 32 rooms, salted swimming pool and more accommodations. Price starts at 950 Baht a night with breakfast and free WIFI. 2 Ratchapakhinai Rd., T. Phra Singh, Muang Chiang Mai Tel. 0 5327 9391-3 or www.chiangmaiboutiquehouse.com

ROYAL PENERAI HOTEL

Managed by Royal Peninsula Hotel team, Royal Penerai Hotel offers excellent service, security, clean and convenience. It has 136 luxury guestrooms. Price starts at 799 Baht per night, Near JJ Market Tel. 0 5323 4567 or www.royalpeninsulahotel.com ECO RESORT CHIANG MAI

Eco Resort Chiang Mai, an affiliated of Imm Hotel Group, offers value accommodations for the nature lovers. With ecological and environmental awareness, the hotel creates the services and designs that cater to the basic needs of discoverers. Price starts only 250 Baht++ per bed for shared room. Bamrungrad Rd., T. Wat Kate, Muang Chiang Mai Tel. 0 5324 7111 or www.ecoresortchiangmai.com

BUDGET HOTEL DIRECTORY

Thai Airways International

Chiang Mai Office : Tel. 0 5392 0920 Bangkok Office : Tel. 0 2356 1111 www.thaiairways.com

FLT.

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Chiang Mai Office : Tel. 0 5328 3311 Bangkok Office : Tel. 0 2551 6111 www.kanairlines.com

FLT.

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FROM CHIANG MAI TO PAI t ,/% FROM PAI TO CHIANG MAI t ,/% FROM CHIANG MAI TO CHIANG RAI t ,/% t ,/% CHIANG RAI - CHIANG MAI t ,/% t ,/% CHIANG MAI – NAN t ,/% NAN – CHIANG MAI t ,/%

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他に何

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Next to the parking building of Ton Lamyai Market, there is a local bus station where you can ride a minibus or cab to many districts in the province as well as Lamphun. All bus leaves every 15 minutes.

3FE $BC to anywhere started at 20 Baht

#MVF $BC UP -BNQIVO

( There are also shuttle buses with air-condition from Chiang Mai to Lamphun for 20 Baht)

8IJUF $BC

to Bo Sang in San Kamphaeng district and to Doi Saket district

:FMMPX $BC

to Mae Rim district

(SFFO $BC

to Mae Jo in San Sai district

Consulates

Useful  Telephone  Numbers

#SJUJTI $POTVMBUF $BOBEJBO $POTVMBUF $IJOFTF $POTVMBUF 'JOOJTI $POTVMBUF 'SFODI $POTVMBUF (FSNBO $POTVMBUF *OEJBO $POTVMBUF +BQBOFTF $POTVMBUF 4XFEJTI $POTVMBUF 6 4 $POTVMBUF

Telephone Information

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Tourism

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Emergency Numbers

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Luang  Prabang

Police Stations

Accommodations

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Hospitals

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