Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine September-October 2020 by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine

The Island Living Issue

A Tribute to Maui’s Frontline Workers Classic North Shore Plantation Home Maui’s Oldest Art Gallery Turns

The Last Wild Coast

VOL 24 NO 4 US/CAN $4.95

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Recipes for Coffee Lovers

A Caffeinated & Cool Brew

Indulge in Aloha with island-inspired flavors like Pineapple, Coconut, Kona Coffee, and more! Discover our elegantly packaged premium shortbread cookies online or at our Maui locations. www.honolulucookie.com THE SHOPS AT WAILEA

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Features

THE LAST WILD COAST Maui’s southern shore is a land of startling contrasts: barren lava, soaring cliffs, and a wetland that humans are fighting to restore. Story by Judy Edwards

30 Maui Style

IN PRAISE OF MAUI’S HEROES A portrait of some of the many folks who look out for us in difficult times. Photography by Ladini Conder

36 Hawaiian Soul

THE SACRED SPINE Hawaiian legends speak of giant lizards inhabiting island waters, sometimes as protective deities, sometimes as shapeshifting threats. Story by Shannon Wianecki

COVER PHOTO: Maui photographer Edward Baldwin captures the blush of sunset at Nu‘u Bay, a wilderness area traveled by few. Find the story on page 24.

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« ISLAND LIVING »

44 At Home

A PLACE OF TIDE AND TIME Knocked down by tsunamis and battered by time, this beach house refuses to quit. Story by Paul Wood

50 Great Finds

ACT NATURAL Teak, koa, rattan, clay . . . make a statement with down-to-earth style.

52 Island Business

IT TAKES A VILLAGE For fifty years, Lynn Shue has championed the arts and the artists she loves. And boy, is the feeling mutual.

They say a lady of a certain age never reveals her past. But this charming home, built in the 1930s, has quite a tale to tell. Turn to page 44 and step inside.

JOHN GIORDANI

24 Adventure

Lanikeha at Kaanapali Golf Estates

Kapalua 10-Acre Oceanfront Legacy Estate

Kaanapali Beachfront Estate

Kapalua Oceanfront Estate

Ironwood 14 Beachfront at Kapalua

We Represent Over $200M Of Maui’s Finest Oceanfront, Resort, and Estate Properties.

“For us, our client relationship doesn’t end at the sale. It’s just the beginning.” Hawaii Life is an Exclusive Affiliate of Christie’s International Real Estate.

Mary Anne Fitch, R(B) | sold@maui.net | soldmaui.com Nam L. Le Viet, R(S) | nam@mauisold.com Hawaii Life Real Estate Brokers 500 Bay Drive, Kapalua 808.250.1583

14 Contributors

It takes a lot of talents to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

Departments

16 Publisher’s Note

by Diane Haynes Woodburn

18 Talk Story

Fresh off the coconut wireless ~by Sarah Ruppenthal & Shannon Wianecki

22 Tag, We’re It!

Our fans get social @MauiMag.

81 Who’s Helping

In unsettling times, it’s hard to know what the future will bring. What you can count on: Maui people will always step up.

82 Pau Hana

ALOHA—IT’S THE LAW How Auntie Pilahi Paki helped prevent an international incident Story by Teri Frietas Gorman

« DINING »

Stories by Becky Speere

64 Dining Feature

BEAN BUZZ The perks of being a coffee maven

68 Dining Highlights

THE GREAT COFFEE CHALLENGE We ask three island chefs to create three recipes featuring coffee.

72 Mixology

COOL BREW Try this coffee-inspired recipe for the Funky Cold Mahina.

74 Dining Guide

Four Season’s Executive Chef Craig Dryhurst created these tacos with Hawaiian-coffee-rubbed pork and mango-coffee BBQ sauce. You can, too. Find the recipe on page 68.

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FOUR SEASONS MAUI RESORT & SPA

A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island

For those ready for what's next

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Island Sotheby's International Realty, 3628 Baldwin Ave, Makawao, HI, 96768. Each franchise is independently owned and operated.

There’s a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.

Publisher Diane Haynes Woodburn

Group Publisher Michael Haynes Creative Director John Giordani

Senior Editor Rita Goldman

EDITORIAL Dining Editor Becky Speere Website Manager Adelle Lennox Digital Media Manager Felix Sunny D’Souza

MARKETING & ADVERTISING Account Manager Brooke Tadena Advertising Sales 808-242-8331

CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. Controller Kao Kushner Subscriptions & Office Manager Nancy Wenske

NEWSSTAND SALES & CIRCULATION Subscription Inquiries toll free: 844-808-MAUI (6284) or visit Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net National MagNet, National MagNet, Disticor Magazine Distribution Services Hawai‘i MagNet In Room Maui Circulation CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Judy Edwards, Teri Freitas Gorman, Becky Speere, Shannon Wianecki, Paul Wood CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Edward Baldwin, Bob Bangerter, Ladini Conder, John Giordani, Mieko Horikoshi, Nina Kuna, Andre Seale, Shannon Wianecki CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATORS Matthew Foster Ana Karla Gherman E-MAIL Info@MauiMagazine.net Moving? Send address changes to Haynes Publishing Group, 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793. Please note: If the post office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, Haynes Publishing has no further obligation, unless we receive a corrected address within one year of that notification.

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, and Eating & Drinking magazines 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; 808-242-8331. ISSN 2473-5299 (print) | ISSN 2473-5469 (online) ©2020 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly U.S. subscriptions $21; Canadian subscriptions $29; foreign subscriptions $40. Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net

Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi—an environmental leader in the industry whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

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Contributors

Introducing some of the folks who make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine nō ka ‘oi (the best).

Times change. Having written and published myriad pieces about and for Hawai‘i, Paul Wood has turned his focus to large projects, fiction and nonfiction, that target Mainland readership. He still teaches creative writing at UH–Maui College, where his present challenge is to make the new online classroom mode both valid and inspirational. He’s still stuck like a refrigerator magnet, and gladly, to Haleakalā.

Judy Edwards is a conservation advocate and writer who has worked to protect the natural world for all of her twenty-six years in Hawai‘i. She has worked in outreach and education for the Federal and State governments, and for nonprofits whose mission is environmental education and public lands. Her passion is biodiversity; she has a soft spot for the unsung heroes of conservation who quietly hold the world together.

Teri Freitas Gorman was born in the Territory of Hawai‘i of typical plantation pedigree. After a career in Europe, both US coasts and New Zealand, she returned to Maui in 2005. She learned the nuances of the Aloha Spirit Law from her colleague Kumu Ramsay Taum, a student of Aunty Pilahi Paki, the law’s author. Teri continues to serve the community as past president of the Maui Native Hawaiian Chamber of Commerce.

Kula resident and amateur gardener Nina Kuna spends her pandemic time toiling in the dirt with her husband, cat and three ducks. Photographing Maui’s remarkable people, places and cuisines for Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine has been a highlight during her fifteen years on the island. She also owns an online store, specializing in engraved gifts and novelties: TheEngraver.shop

Named 2016 Travel Writer of the Year by the Hawaii Ecotourism Association, and Best Independent Journalist by the Society of Professional Journalists, Hawai‘i Chapter, Shannon Wianecki has traveled to Iceland, the South Pacific, and all points in between in search of stories. Her favorite spot remains the beach within walking distance of her house on Maui. Follow her adventures: @SWianecki.

It’s always an adventure when Bob Bangerter shoots for us—petroglyphs or hot lava, Kalaupapa or Pe‘ahi by air—as he works to capture the soul of such a beautiful and diverse state. It was no exception this time around, when he spent some quality time photographing the “back side” of Maui to capture its unique and overwhelming charm.

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For your next adventure

OLOWALU: This spectacular Oceanfront Property, steeped in history, is a jewel to behold! Owners are afforded unparalleled privacy and stunning views of Lanai and Kahoolawe, as well as a lifetime of incredible sunsets. This private, two acre oceanfront site, builder ready, comes complete with a producing citrus orchard, maturing mango trees as well as coconut trees and attractive monkeypod trees. A private, dual water system provides ample water for both domestic and agricultural uses. Access to a nearby launching site for canoes, kayaks and paddle boards ensures the owners will have endless opportunities to enjoy this unique and special oceanfront property. 2 acres offered for $4,850,000

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Publisher’s Note As this issue goes to press, Hawai‘i is hunkering down in expectation of Hurricane Douglas. My husband, Jamie, and I spent the better part of yesterday battening down the hatches, as did most Hawai‘i residents. Outdoor furniture is secured, windows reinforced and in some cases boarded up. An army of water jugs lines my kitchen counter, looking like barrel-chested sentries. Flashlights, check. Transistor radio, check. Sourdough starter, check, check! If all else fails, we will have bread, even if I have to bake it in the BBQ. The morning sky is gray and rain is beginning to come down. Our big Australian shepherds are curled up on their beds (including a favorite overstuffed armchair). I set to work making a pot of chili large enough to feed a small army, while Jamie creates a makeshift factory on our kitchen table to assemble olive fruit-fly traps. Yes, you heard right. Olive fruit-fly traps. Over the years, I’ve watched my husband evolve from gentleman gardener to “Jamie Olive Seed,” planting and nurturing more than 2,000 olive trees. He has battled weeds, wind, insects, drought, axis deer—even pigs. And he has prevailed, mostly. One thing we have learned over the years is that the best efforts of man are no match for nature. A storm can change everything. As can a virus. While Jamie prepares his arsenal of tin pans and fly bait, hoping against the odds that the storm will not devastate the fruit he is trying to protect, all the rest of us, whether far-flung throughout the continents of the world, or here on this protected archipelago 2,400 miles from the nearest landmass, persevere through the greater storm of Covid 19. Our hearts go out to those who have suffered the loss of loved ones, the many more who have fallen ill, the myriad small businesses and restaurants that have had to close, and the hundreds of thousands who have lost their jobs and economic security. It’s a devastating storm that continues to ravage. And yet, it has brought out the best in us. To those who have shared their strength and humanity in caring for our communities and each other, we say mahalo. In this special Island Living issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, we celebrate what has endured and what we hold close, honoring Maui’s frontline workers through the empathetic eyes of photographer Ladini Conder; sharing the resilience of a beach house knocked down by a tsunami, then reborn to become the center of multigenerational family life; and congratulating Lynn Shue on her galleries’ fiftieth anniversary. Village Galleries has survived—and thrived—when so many others did not, through Lynn’s love of art and her joy in nurturing emerging artists. The island itself attests to survival; our cover story explores a hushed and protected landscape that emerged from the devastation of Pele’s fiery volcano. Here, amid the gnarled fingers of sharp, inhospitable lava, blue tide pools and anchialine ponds reveal their treasures of rare and fragile creatures. Proof that life is a continuum. The chili is simmering nicely. Jamie’s tabletop assembly line is nearing completion, and the hurricane . . . is dissipating. Instead of punishing rains, the sky is leaking sunlight and throwing a veil of red and pink across scattering storm clouds. Tomorrow, Jamie and I will walk the orchard, and take heart in the knowledge that storms do pass. The power and miracles of nature shape our lives, and, as every farmer knows, it can all change in a moment. But what won’t change is the beauty that abounds, and the aloha we carry in our hearts. This endures. We at Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi are privileged to share our aloha with you. Chili, anyone? A hui hou Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

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MIEKO HORIKOSHI; BOTTOM: DIANE WOODBURN

After the Storm

talk story Fresh off the coconut wireless

in season

As summer turns to fall on Maui, wiliwili trees erupt in a profusion of brilliant blossoms across the Kanaio lava fields. Pre-Contact Hawaiians observed a connection between this forest and the sea: Pua ka wiliwili nanahu ka manō. When the wiliwili blooms, the sharks bite. Modern science has proven the ancient proverb right—mostly. Carl Meyer, a researcher at Hawai‘i’s Institute for Marine Biology, has studied Hawaiian sharks for thirty years. His research explores the movements of the Pacific’s apex predator: the tiger shark. Meyer’s studies confirm that in autumn, some tiger sharks travel from the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands to congregate around the main islands. These pelagic travelers have two things in common: they’re big and they’re pregnant. Female tigers are larger than males. And for reasons still unknown, they prefer to give birth in the main Hawaiian Islands. Autumn is pupping season for tiger sharks. Baby tigers hatch from eggs that develop inside of the mother shark’s body, a process known as ovoviviparity. Pregnant tigers don’t have placentas; rather, they produce uterine milk to nourish

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growing pups. Tiger moms have a long gestation period—up to sixteen months—and deliver between ten and eighty-three pups. Newborn sharks emerge with fins a few sizes too big for their bodies. Small and inefficient swimmers, they’re easy prey for other marine predators. Juveniles double their length within a year, but don’t outgrow their “awkward stage” until around four years of age and eight feet in length. But do they bite? Very, very rarely. Forty shark species inhabit Hawaiian waters; only two are known for biting humans: whites and tigers. Even those species generally bite people by accident. “Shark attack” is a misnomer. In the past twenty-five years, shark bites have resulted in just five deaths. Meanwhile, humans kill more than 11,000 sharks worldwide per hour. Sharks are critical to healthy oceans. Many Native Hawaiians revere sharks as ‘aumakua, powerful ancestral spirits. Sharks are magnificent ancient creatures, not the monsters depicted in horror films. So when you enter the ocean this fall, show respect. Remember that it’s not just the sharks’ home; it’s their nursery.

ARTESUB.COM

Shark Pups

Story by Shannon Wianecki | Photo by Andre Seale

SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS

The best choice for this year’s staycation is the historic Pioneer Inn on Lahaina Harbor. Plenty of Places to Shop with over 14 Retailers ∏ Restaurants Maui Toy Works

Atlantis Submarine

Papa’aina Restaurant

Best Western Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina (808) 661-3636 www.pioneerinnmaui.com

TALK STORY day in the life

True to Her Roots NAME: Emanuela “Manu” Vinciguerra

Story by Sarah Ruppenthal Photo by Mieko Horikoshi

OCCUPATION: Sales & Marketing Director, Kumu Farms WELL-GROUNDED: Manu Vinciguerra loves making lists. In her tidy office in Kumu Farms’ enormous packinghouse at the Maui Tropical Plantation, shelves and drawers are filled with scrawled-in notebooks—one for every month. “I have to write everything down,” Manu says. “It keeps me focused.” Perhaps that’s why she has seemingly superhuman ability to remain calm when the packinghouse fills with delivery drivers, chefs, and store managers on twice-weekly pickup days. “It’s a cross between Grand Central Station and a small Italian piazza,” Manu says. “We laugh and talk about food—it doesn’t feel like work.” A TASTE FOR LEARNING: Born and raised in Abruzzo, Italy, Manu has been cooking for as long as she can remember (she recalls making ravioli by hand by the age of three), and says her passion for fresh food is ingrained in her DNA.

After earning a master’s degree in foreign languages and literature, Manu moved to Menlo Park, California, to teach college-level Italian, and later started her own language school. SEEDS OF CHANGE: In 2006, Manu and her husband headed west again, this time to Moloka‘i. The island ticked every box: a close-knit rural community by the sea. One day, on a quest for fresh basil, she visited Kumu Farms’ nursery in Ho‘olehua. Manu soon became a familiar face, and developed a rapport with farm owner Grant Schule. Impressed by her culinary repertoire and teacher’s knack for explaining things, he offered her a job in 2009. NEW DIGS: In 2012, Manu bid farewell to Moloka‘i when Kumu Farms opened a location at the Maui Tropical Plantation in Waikapū; she’s been running the show there ever since. Her weekly to-do list includes overseeing the day-to-day operations of the sixty-plus-acre diversified farm, filling gift-box orders, cleaning, sorting, and counting inventory, prepping for pickup days, and inventing recipes for Kumu Farms’ packaged products (many of which include the farm’s claim-to-fame strawberry papayas). “It’s intense, interesting and challenging—and I love it,” she says. “Every day is a good day.” FIELDING QUESTIONS: If there’s a lull at the packinghouse, Manu heads to the farm stand to chat with customers. “My greatest joy is educating others,” she says. One time, a little boy was curiously inspecting a fennel frond; Manu seized the opportunity. “I asked him, ‘Do you like licorice?’” she recalls. Hesitantly, he sampled a piece. “His face lit up,” Manu says. “It made my day . . . it always does.” WEB EXCLUSIVE: Try Manu’s recipe for this tasty dessert at MauiMagazine. net/papaya-crisp, and hear her personal story, told to publisher Diane Woodburn, at MauiMagazine.net/ podcasts.

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Congratulations on 50 years of business in Hawai’i

Hau’oli Lā 50th from the artists you’ve faithfully supported.

HB LYNN ❤

The gardens here at Ali`i Kula Lavender Farm keep growing and adapting with the seasons, and so do we. Follow us on Facebook and Instagram and browse our website for the latest on hours of operation, events and online sales. One thing that will never change is the quality and aloha put into our products, including lavender scones, teas, culinary treats, household essential and aromatic items. Select items available online. 1100 Waipoli Road, Kula, Hawaii 96790 Call 808.878.3004 or email aklreservations@aklmaui.com www.aklmaui.com | @aklmaui

free farm admission with mention of this ad (Exp. 4.20.21)

save 15% off online orders at aklmaui.com use promo code: mauinokaoi15 (Exp. 4.20.21) Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

MEET MAUI’S CHEF OF THE YEAR

SPRING-SUMMER 2020

In the Peace of

HALEAKALĀ Shaped By Stone

THE LIFE AND WORK OF HOAKA DELOS REYES

Food, Glorious Food

GREAT OUTDOOR KITCHENS VOL 24 / NO 3

US/CAN $4.95

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OUR READERS VOTED & HERE’S THE LIST OUR GUIDE TO THE 100 BEST RESTAURANTS, BARS, CAFÉS, FOOD TRUCKS, LŪ‘AU & SHAVE ICE STANDS ON MAUI

Tag, We’re It!

It’s official: Our readers are as obsessed with Maui as we are. We see you out there, exploring the island and snapping those Insta-worthy shots. Keep ’em coming! Follow @MauiMag on Instagram, then tag us in your photos, and we’ll share some of our favorites.

@ willdoesmaui “Saturday Vibes...”

@saltkissed Solidarity. June 1 Paddle out for George Floyd

@growing_up_italian “When Matt Adlard started his career as the Naked Baker, I watched him because even an old lady needs eye candy . . . . Long story short, I made taro bagels with furikake topping from his NY Bagel recipe. So ‘ono!

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@ tipou_productions West Maui Mountain, in the valley you can only reach by helicopter. Such a place, such a mood.

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ADVENTURE

A mitten of lava reaches into the sea between Nu‘u and Kaupō. This is Kou, once a fishing village, the thick stone walls the remains of a large heiau. The hills above are named Pu‘u Māneoneo, the bay at left Waiu, adjacent to Nu‘u Bay.

Maui’s southern shore is a land of startling contrasts: barren lava, soaring cliffs, and a wetland that humans are fighting to restore. STORY BY JUDY EDWARDS | PHOTOGRAPHY BY BOB BANGERTER

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

Petroglyphs, frozen midstory, keep their secrets on sacred walls of natural stone.

I first saw Nu‘u in 1995, on my birthday. Like so many Hawaiian places, Nu‘u is a specific spot (Nu‘u Landing), a bay, a larger area (Nu‘u is a whole ahupua‘a, or district, of Kaupō) and a descriptor: nu‘u means “height,” and refers to the upswooping, impossible-to-ignore flank of Haleakalā that visually dominates this last wild coast of Maui. We’d just moved to the island and had not yet driven all the way around it. We splurged on a rental jeep, spent the night in dreamy Hāna, and the next morning followed the serpentine road around the corner of the island, past the jungle zone, and into the windswept otherworld of the “back side” of Maui. Jarring and jangling our way along the dirt parts of the road, we came around a bend, parked and stared. I have a photo of myself. My mouth is hanging open. To my left, the dark blue ocean, whipped to froth by the channel winds. Ahead of me, the unfolding leagues of undulating grass and the jagged coastline—boulders, cliffs and arches—and to my right, nu‘u: the heights. If Haleakalā’s slope were this extreme above Kīhei or Ha‘ikū, houses would gradually sliiiiiiiide down over the years, ending at the bottom in a jumble. And so much space. How is it possible that there was still so much space? In the ensuing years I have had nothing but questions about Nu‘u, a place that feels like secrets are sleeping. What happened to the people that surely must have lived there? What lies hidden in the folds and cracks of that landscape? Scott Fisher was the man to ask. He’s the director of conservation for the Hawaiian Islands Land Trust (HILT), and he was raised

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The susurration of shoreline rocks rolled and smoothed by the restless sea seems to lull time right out of your sun-drenched bones.

An inviting cove at Nu‘u—home to one of the most successful wetland restorations in Hawai‘i.

ADVENTURE

on Maui, often tagging along with his uncle “Soot,” who was Kaupō Ranch manager from 1968 to about 1982. Scott grew up in this place, absorbing the land into his DNA. Ten years ago, HILT acquired, for four million dollars, the eightytwo acres around Nu‘u Landing, another irreplaceable flower in the organization’s lei of refuges that will be available to all, forever. Because the coastal road to reach it deteriorates into a trail beyond ‘Āhihi–Kina‘u Natural Area Reserve, Scott obligingly meets me in Kahului and bundles me into his work truck, cheerfully peppering me with questions, answers, musings and stories all the way up the Haleakalā Highway through Pukalani, Kula, Kēōkea, and on through Auwahi, where the great gleaming blades of the eight white turbines of Auwahi Wind Company are cartwheeling in place against the late-morning sky. A little later, the sight lines open, the long, long coastline comes into view, and Scott pulls over at the twenty-four-mile marker, near the old walls of the first Catholic church on Maui, so I can get out and just look, this time with my mouth closed. He lifts an arm and sights into the distance, where a long, low section of Haleakalā’s coast reaches from the skirts of the mountain into the channel. “That’s ‘Īlio Point,” he says, lifting his voice above the wind, “the site of a terrifically important battle when Kamehameha was a young warrior still fighting for Hawai‘i Island. And just this side of it is Apole Point in Nu‘u; that’s where we’re going.” Nu‘u, facing Hawai‘i Island across the ‘Alenuihāhā Channel, was often caught up in the battles of chiefs and, as the area sandwiched between the ambitions of the highborn on both sides, often the site

of invasions. As Scott explains to me the intricate social contortions undergone by the people of Nu‘u to appease both island chiefdoms and not get themselves obliterated, I can’t stop thinking of the African saying: When the elephants fight, the mice tremble. A few yards past mile marker 31, we pull off the road at the publicaccess gate leading into the Nu‘u parcel. This gate is always open, easy to find, and no permit is required, but vehicles need good clearance. “Nu‘u is a place where we encourage people to connect with the natural world,” Scott says. “It’s a place were you can easily feel the life of the kūpuna [elders]. Time spent here is an opportunity to see not only the past, but our way into the future. Everyone is always welcome.” We back up onto the road and enter the parcel through a nearby, second gate that leads down to a black-sand beach. Surprisingly, this gate is locked, but anyone can call and ask for the key. Scott says it’s locked to discourage people from driving onto the beach, where monk seals haul out and sea turtles nest—and where huge thorns dropped by kiawe trees have been known to pop tires. “When people call for the key, we explain all that,” he says. We park the truck and start to walk. Because I am already in my head, planning how often I will come back, I don’t register at first when we stop walking. I am facing a wall of rock maybe twelve feet high, a face of columnar basalt that looks like a giant beaver has scraped downward through stone, leaving tall flat surfaces, elongated sections of grey and faded black. On these surfaces, to my left and right, are petroglyphs: people depicted singly and in groups, arms and legs wide, even apparently . . . dancing? We clamber uphill past them to Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

find ourselves encircled by the remains of ancient walls and standing on the scatterings of the small stones that were once thickly laid here for flooring. Temple? Shrine? Homesite? No one knows, although Thomas K. Maunupau’s book, Huakai Makaika a Kaupo: A Visit to Kaupo, Maui, which references a trip he took to the area in 1922, suggests that it was a heiau, or temple, and still in good repair at the time. Not far from this treasure is a breezy meadow where the seasonal structures of residents used to stand. The permanent village of Nu‘u would have been on higher ground, but Hawaiians then and now create temporary homes near the sea when fishing or the season requires it. Scott takes a drink of water and says, “The tsunami of 1946 actually accreted land along this coastline—you can see the difference in the maps—but it ended the time of the last people here. It didn’t destroy the structures so much as it wiped out the road to get down here. It got too hard, and the people left.” He puts the cap on his water bottle, strides over and jumps a fence. I clamber over behind him and walk up to the reason for the fence: the wetland. It cost $70,000 to fence six acres of wetland to keep the feral

pigs and wandering cattle out of it. Every post was dug by hand into rock; Scott’s expression as he describes it convinces me it was horrible work. Every drop of the water here seeps from a spring, that miracle in a dry land. From the air, this must look like an emerald of throbbing life amid rocky, sun-blasted cattle country. Waterbirds define the wetland: endemic Hawaiian coots scoot anxiously back and forth on the surface of the pond, while pink-legged Hawaiian stilts take to the air, calling to alert everyone to the presence of two predators, Homo sapiens sapiens, creeping in under the lowslung branches of the kiawe trees that HILT is gradually clearing to open the space and reclaim the wetland. “A lot of ecological restoration is just removing those things that inhibit the recovery of native species, and letting them rebound,” Scott says while he ponders an old pig wallow from the pre-fence days. The stilts settle into the native sedge, makaloa, which is gradually reclaiming its former range. The thing about restoring a wetland on the dry side of an island is that such regions have been the most heavily altered, ecologically. There are almost no examples left of the kind of wetland-in-a-dryland that HILT is working to restore. There is, however, good scientific guessing and a faith that “if you clear it, Elegant Hawaiian stilts and rare Hawaiian coots rely on these wetlands for food and shelter. Some merely pause here to rest; others stop and raise families.

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ADVENTURE

The far fringe of native sedge hints at the wealth of this wetland, this miracle of water in a waterless land. As invasives are removed, habitat opens for indigenous waterbirds.

they will come” back. “It feels good to come here,” Scott says. “I used to come with my parents; now I try to do this with my kids.” Another fence hop and a short walk down the road brings us to the mile marker 31 gate, and as we go through and head seaward across the peninsula of ‘a‘a (rough, sharp lava) at Apole Point, Scott points to the water-worn stones on which we step, noting that this is a section of the old Hoapili Highway, still used by fishermen today to reach the coast. We divert from the old road to follow the ragged rock boundary at the seaward edge, every now and then stopping to examine the remains of hundreds of ancient temporary structures. It is here that I realize that the crashing, surging, cobalt sea is actually upstaged by the astonishing, majestic slope of the highlands. Whenever we stop, Scott and I unconsciously have our backs to the ocean. There is a reason the people named this area for the heights—they pull on you; you cannot stop looking up-up-up until your sight runs into the bellies of late afternoon clouds. On the eastern, Kīpahulu side of us there is a cliff face on a hill called Pu‘umane‘one‘o that Scott says white-tailed tropicbirds like to frequent. We look for them, but both of us can only notice how eroded the land above the cliff is, how tired and how dry. When there were dryland forests still standing here, was there more water? Was it green more often? Can restoration of the land get us back there? On the long drive back I absently ask Scott if he dreams. He sits up in the driver’s seat as if I have jabbed him. “It’s so funny you would ask that question,” he says, suddenly animate. “Yesterday I had the most vivid dream. I was looking at the face of Pu‘umane‘one‘o, but it was raining, and I was seeing it from the perspective of the ocean. There were white-tailed tropicbirds all over it, on the cliff and in the air, hundreds of them. It was like. . .” his eyes search out mine and then return to the road, “it was like the place was healed.”

IF YOU GO From the Central Valley, the drive to Nu‘u takes about an hour and a half. For access to camping and hiking information, email info@hilt.org, or visit nuu.hilt.org.

DO bring sun protection (hat, sunscreen), closed-toed shoes, food and plenty of water. Nu‘u has no facilities and phone reception is spotty—and it’s a long way from medical attention.

DON’T climb on archaeological sites, and please LEAVE DOGS AT HOME; their presence is a major stress to waterbirds.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

MAUI STYLE

In Praise , of Maui s Heroes Photography & Creative Direction by Ladini Conder, @mauiartbank Assistance provided by Linda Herberger

“When the statewide quarantine went into effect in March,” says Ladini Conder, “like many people I lost my income and felt powerless. I wanted to contribute to my community in a positive way.” Now a jewelry designer, Ladini studied photography in college, focusing on nineteenth-century techniques. With the help of her thirteen-year-old daughter, Isabella, and a friend, Linda Herberger, she put her photographic talents to work. “I’ve been in public-arts projects in the past, and they are wonderful for bringing communities together. When I noticed the boarded-up shops in Pā‘ia and Makawao, it reminded me of a war zone. It occurred to me that an art project with the faces of frontline and essential workers would be a way to express my gratitude, a beautiful tribute that belongs to everyone and represents how we kōkua [help] together, even in the most difficult circumstances. “When you do a photography project, people aren’t always so responsive. These people were incredibly open. Nurses at the hospital seemed so exhausted that creating the space [for them] to laugh and be silly was met with wonderful enthusiasm.” Ladini started in April, reaching out first to the Maui Police Department to ask whether any officers would be interested in participating. A nurse she knew at Maui Memorial Medical Center helped her find willing staff. And so on. For each group, she photographed twenty or so people, on the job, and in uniform if possible. “I couldn’t go inside, obviously, so we shot outside, and because they were at work, I’d have only three or four minutes with them.” Next came turning the photos into poster-sized closeups. Ladini’s budget was practically nonexistent, but after some searching, she found a print shop in Kahului—HONBLUE Maui—willing to enlarge those faces without costing Ladini an arm and a leg. “I also asked the owners of Acacia in Pā‘ia and Designing Wahine in Makawao whether they’d be willing to contribute to the cost of printing. They were happy to do so.” Continued on page 34

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Carly Weddle, Registered Nurse, BSN, Maui Memorial Medical Center Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

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Clockwise from top left: Annette Weber, RN, State of Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;i Public Safety Department; John Herberger, Chaplain Coordinator, Pacific Health Ministry, Maui Memorial Medical Center; Ashley Gonzales, Maui Food Bank; Captain Makenzie Sowers, Pilot

Danilo Aseo, Kumu Farms, Maui Tropical Plantation

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

Sergeant Kamuela Mawae, Maui Police Department

Harly De La Cruz, Maui County Correctional Center, Hawai‘i Public Safety Department

Apalonia Thompson, Cargo Agent, Transair

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L.A. White, Registered Nurse, BSN, CCRN, Maui Memorial Medical Center

Then there were the logistics of getting other shop owners to permit her to wheat-paste the images on their boarded-up windows. Not everyone said yes, but those who did “were wildly enthusiastic,” says Ladini. “They’ve been getting nice comments from people who see them.” Lisa Payne, who owns Designing Wahine, sent Ladini this email: “Thanks so much for brightening up our little slice of Makawao Town—it is inspiring, heartfelt, and made me cry happy tears, seeing the photos.” Ladini says the project’s continuing. “I have in mind an empty shop in Maui Mall, or maybe a book of some of the original people I photographed. You kind of get attached to them.”

MAUI STYLE

Denvi Alamillo, Warrants Clerk, Maui Police Department

Lieutenant Audra Seller, Maui Police Department

Kukui Eleneki, Cargo Agent, Transair

Cassie Leong, Lead Cargo Agent, Transair

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

HAWAIIAN SOUL

Hawaiian legends speak of giant lizards inhabiting island waters, sometimes as protective deities, sometimes as shapeshifting threats. To those who know the culture, these dragons are more than myth. Story by Shannon Wianecki Illustration by Ana Karla Gherman 36

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In one of the most famous legends of ancient Hawai‘i, Pele, the volcano goddess, sends her youngest sister, Hi‘iaka, to rescue a mortal lover. Three mo‘o (supernatural lizards) have captured Pele’s sweetheart and hold him hostage in a cave on Kaua‘i. Thus, Hi‘iaka’s mission involves a second errand: dragon slaying. As Hi‘iaka travels island to island, she encounters many mo‘o. On the windward cliffs of Moloka‘i, the young goddess and her attendant Wahineoma‘o come to an impassable ravine. As they ponder how to proceed, a slender plank appears. Wahineoma‘o starts across, but Hi‘iaka recognizes the bewitched bridge for what it is: the tongue of the man-eating mo‘o Kikipua. Spanning the gorge with her magical pa‘u (skirt), Hi‘iaka chases the lizard to its lair and kills it. Dragons. Lizards. Deities. Whatever word used to invoke them, mo‘o rank among Hawai‘i’s most mysterious mythic creatures. They figure in the oldest Hawaiian stories and are a key to a deep, nearly forgotten magic. Most mo‘o of legend are female, shapeshifters capable of appearing as beautiful maidens or water dragons. They dwell in caves, pools, and fishponds and are fierce guardians of freshwater sources. According to nineteenth-century Hawaiian historian Samuel Kamakau, when fires were lit on altars near their homes, the mo‘o would appear: twelve- to thirty-foot-long reptiles, black as night, glistening in the water. “If given a drink of awa,” he writes, “they would turn from side to side like the keel of a canoe.” Mo‘o are said to possess profound powers: They are omniscient. They can manipulate weather. Even their disembodied tongues and tails have potency. The more vicious among their tribe have been known to summon giant waves to sweep trespassers from

trails, or drown victims in pits of poisonous phlegm. But not all mo‘o are malevolent; many are beloved protectors who lend aid to their devotees. At one time, fishponds and pools throughout Hawai‘i had stone markers signifying their resident mo‘o. Ancient Hawaiians believed that if a mo‘o guardian received proper nurture, she would respond in like manner, ensuring fat harvests and healthy stream flow. But if she were neglected, she would wreak havoc. The underlying philosophy was respect for the land—a basic tenet of Hawaiian culture. To this day, fishermen hoping to catch hīnālea (wrasse) in Waialua, O‘ahu, call upon the spirit of Kalamainu‘u. This mo‘o, according to storytellers, fell in love with a young chief while surfing. After she married him, her cousins Hīnālea and ‘Aikilolo disclosed her true identity, then turned into fish and disappeared down a crack in the seafloor. Kalamainu‘u cleverly snared her betrayers with a woven trap—and she’ll supposedly fill the fish traps of those who ask. In many stories, when a mo‘o is slain, its body becomes part of the landscape. Viewed through this lens, Hawai‘i is littered with the remains of giant lizards. On Maui’s southern coast, the cinder cone Pu‘u Ōla‘i and Molokini crater, the curved islet offshore, are reputedly severed pieces of an unlucky mo‘o who crossed Pele. On Moloka‘i, the grey outline of a massive lizard can be seen sunning itself on Kamalō Ridge. This is Kapulei, a male mo‘o who pledged to watch over the area even in death. That Hawai‘i should have such a rich folklore concerning lizards is perplexing. Lizards are not native to these islands. The gecko, that ubiquitous mascot of most island households, is a transplant from Asia. It hitched a ride in the Polynesians’ seafaring canoes. Some Hawaiian scholars believe the same is true for the mo‘o. Over several Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

millennia, as the Polynesians’ forebears migrated from the Asian continent across the Pacific Islands, they likely carried with them the memory of giant lizards—water monitors and crocodiles—and their attendant mythology. But for some, mo‘o are more than myth. Hawaiian-language authority Mary Kawena Pukui defines mo‘o not only as a dragon or lizard god, but also as a spine, succession, and lineage. A mo‘olelo, or story, is a progression of words strung like vertebrae along a cord of meaning. Likewise mo‘okū‘auhau, the word for genealogy, suggests that Hawaiians viewed the lizard’s interlocking bones as symbolic of their own sacred lineage. Genealogy—the litany of where people come from—is of supreme importance in the Hawaiian culture. As its emblem, the mo‘o is indisputably significant. Revered Hawaiian artist and cultural leader Sam Ka‘ai gave a discourse about the mo‘o before an international audience in 1987. The dragon is a major force of life, he said. Its head peers into the future, the white dawn yet to come. Its front feet are the ‘ōpio (youth), reaching, touching, examining. Next come the mākua (parents), the stable hind legs of the dragon, and beyond them, the kūpuna (elders). The kūpuna form the spine, the collective song of all that came before. They tell how other dawns were and how this dawn will be. Ka‘ai likely drew his analogy from Tales of the Night Rainbow.

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This little-known oral history is a definitive source of mo‘o lore. It relates the story of the Dragon Clan, a Moloka‘i family that traces its lineage to 800 B.C.E., and claims special kinship with a mo‘o. And not just any mo‘o. The most powerful: Kihawahine. Since her emergence in the 1500s, Kihawahine has enjoyed a greater following than any other lizard goddess. Unlike other mo‘o, she reportedly traveled throughout the Islands, frequenting a tiny lake at the summit of West Maui’s mountain, a fishpond on the Waihe‘e coast, and pools on Kaua‘i, Moloka‘i, and Hawai‘i Island. Her primary dwelling was the royal compound at Moku‘ula in Lahaina—Hawai‘i’s spiritual and cultural epicenter for at least three centuries. Kihawahine’s presence in the fishpond surrounding Moku‘ula assured the resident royals of prosperity, and gave them authority over the waters that flowed down West Maui’s mountain and bubbled up in the pond’s natural springs. So great was Kihawahine’s influence that Kamehameha Nui married Keōpūolani, a ten-year-old princess, primarily to inherit the girl’s sacred lineage, which included the lizard goddess. In Kihawahine’s name, he conquered the islands. He carried her carved image to war and on the annual Makahiki procession—the only female deity afforded that honor. So what does the Dragon Clan have to do with Kihawahine? She was one of the family’s ancestors—an actual person. Born in the sixteenth century, Princess Kala‘aiheana was the daughter of the great Maui chief Pi‘ilani. At death, she was transformed through a sacred ritual into Kihawahine, the ‘aumakua (ancestral guardian spirit) of the royal Pi‘ilani line. Daughters of Haumea, a book illuminating the role of women in ancient Hawai‘i, describes the kākū‘ai (transfiguration) process in detail. When a sacred chiefess died, attendants built a small sanctuary festooned with yellow flowers—yellow being the color of royalty. Inside they piled golden-hued offerings: ripe bananas, yellowed awa root, turmeric-tinted kapa (barkcloth), saffron feather lei and royal standards. A female retinue kept vigil for days, chanting to the mo‘o, while the kahuna (priest) retreated into a deep trance on the banks of a nearby stream. If the ceremony were successful, he would receive visions of a dragon emerging from the water and snatching the prepared body. Later, the spirit of the departed chiefess would return in full mo‘o magnificence and reveal her new sacred name, by which her descendants could petition her. Over many generations, this ritualized consecration of souls imbued the mo‘o image with great power. Ancestral identities

LEFT: SHANNON WIANECKI; RIGHT: JASON POOLE/ACCIDENTALHAWAIIANCROONER.COM

Do mo‘o exist? On Moloka‘i, reminders of them do. Left, a mo‘o lifts its head above a Halawa Valley waterfall. Above, etched into Kamalō Ridge, the great lizard Kapulei keeps its promise to watch over the area even in death.

HAWAIIAN SOUL

Molokini, the crescent islet that lies between Maui and Kaho‘olawe, is the rim of a submerged volcano. In Hawaiian lore, it is said to be the head of a giant mo‘o. Pu‘u Ōla‘i, the hill beside Oneloa (“Big Beach”) is the tail. Photo by Bob Bangerter Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

HAWAIIAN SOUL merged with that of the metaphysical reptile, creating a sentient relationship, one that could easily be engaged through a physical totem. Those seeking to access the mo‘o could do so through a familiar go-between—a departed relative. In this respect, deified Hawaiian ancestors are similar to Catholic saints. Both serve as personal intermediaries to an awesome and intangible spiritual power. The most recent candidate for deification was likely Kaili‘one Kame‘ekua, the voice of Tales of the Night Rainbow. Born in 1816, she was named after Kihawahine because of certain auspicious circumstances surrounding her birth. Her parents then gave her to Maka Weliweli, the most powerful kāula (prophet) of their day, to be educated in the ancient rites. She lived for 115 years, through some of Hawai‘i’s most tumultuous history. Both she and her hānai (adoptive) mother might have been transformed into mo‘o—if the curtain hadn’t come crashing down on ancient Hawai‘i first. In 1819, the kapu system was officially overthrown and the old ways abandoned. As new laws dominated the land, Moku‘ula surrendered its role as the seat of Hawaiian power. Eventually, Kihawahine’s fishpond was buried. Today Moku‘ula lies beneath a baseball field in Lahaina. Efforts to excavate the sacred site have stalled. Did the mighty lizard goddess vanish forever or merely retreat to another one of her haunts? Perhaps if we summon the mo‘o, as Hawaiians did in the past, the dragon deities will resurface, to once again defend precious freshwater pools and to symbolize the unbroken line from the genesis of Hawaiian history to the present. Mo‘o O Moku‘ula E kihawahine i kaleihua o Mauna Ka Halawai E Kihawahine kanoe lalapa i Ke‘eke‘ehia E Kihawahine i ka lei kapu o Pu‘u Kukui He anuenue no Kihawahine a Kaua’ula E Kihawahine e, mo‘o o Moku‘ula Aloha e, aloha e, aloha e

Great stories from the world’s best island by award-winning Maui author Jill Engledow -----------------------------------------See them all at MauiThenAndNow.com -----------------------------------------40

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You are Kihawahine the lehua lei of Mauna Ka Halawai You are Kihawahine the mist upon Ke‘eke‘ehia You are Kihawahine the forbidden lei of Pu‘u Kukui The rainbow for Kihawahine of Kaua‘ula You are Kihawahine, the lizard goddess of Moku‘ula Love to you, love to you, love to you

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Island Living

George Allan, Sunday Shower Tree (9” x 12” oil on linen) Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

A PLACE OF AND

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Island Living AT HOME

Knocked down by tsunamis and battered by time, this beach house refuses to quit. story by paul wood * photography by nina kuna When they purchased the place in 1984, the young couple scarcely looked at it. “We walked into the house, right out the back door, sat on the sea wall, and Jim bought it,” says Susan. “My mother was absolutely appalled.” Built back in the 1930s, the structure had been smashed by tsunamis and knocked right off its pins at least twice, once in 1946 and then again in 1960. When Jim and Susan showed up, the fifty-year-old building was “a beat-up old beach house.” Its ceilings, made of cane-fiber sheets called Canec, were sagging and stained. Phone lines were tangled like spaghetti everywhere, and the living room was jammed with windsurfing equipment. The structure had sagging beams, newspaper insulation, and four or five layers of roof. And it had something else. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

A sense of place. If the ocean along this robust stretch of North Shore coastline were a planet, this house would be its moon. The gravitational pull of the sea seems to make the house a mere portal to the seaside, and two easy sweeps of steps—one off the living room, the other to the left of a side room that feels like a Southern screened porch—seem to assist with that motion, barefoot, onto the lawn. The leaf-green of the lawn turns to the milky green-blue of near-shore waters, then to the sapphire of the farther sea, then to the pale china blue of the northern sky. Waves break into white combers along this shore, and the waterheavy trade winds keep improvising similar cloud combers overhead. What’s great is that the neighbors here have all somehow resisted the urge to separate their lots with screens and walls. They’ve set aside the compulsion for privacy (“This is my ocean view!”) that afflicts so many other beautiful locations. Yes, neighbors can see each other’s houses, but the trade-off is that all of them get 180 degrees of transcendental beauty. Who cares about the houses, anyway, when you have such a seascape unfurled, with dawn to the right and the mystic

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peaks of West Maui to the left? And the lawn goes on and on. Susan and Jim’s now-grownup children, Annie and John, will confirm the obvious, that this is the greatest place in the world for a kid to grow up. Trees frame this house with a magnitude that only a long stretch of time can generate. Seaside, coconuts in a loose grove—tsunami survivors all—arc like dancers, each with its own curve. Around the street side you find botanical-garden-quality specimens: a big banyan with a treehouse, a plumeria as rotund as a cumulus cloud, fruit trees (mango, orange, lime, tangerine), and a dark, shielding shower tree that baffles any intrusion. In fact, the entire neighborhood on this stretch of shoreline is packed with tropical trees that muffle traffic noise and cool the small community. It’s a coastal oasis. The home itself has come a long, long way from the days when it was a “beat-up old beach house.” The present owners have loved it into a resurrection. After Jim announced he was buying the place, and after Susan called the realtor and asked the questions one usually asks beforehand (“How many rooms does it have?”), and after the recreational

JOHN GIORDANI

Left: The backyard goes on forever, right out to the open Pacific. No wonder guests sweep out the back doors to stand on the shoreline and stare at the elements. Those elements keep doing the opposite—sweeping in against the house, sometimes catastrophically. The two archival photos below show tsunami damage in 1960 and, below that, 1946. Present owners have restored the home’s original footprint and style, while adding a second floor.

Island Living AT HOME

Above: You could call the style “Cane House Revival.” Rebuilding the home, Susan and Jim retained the pragmatic elements of plantationcamp architecture. Right: Simple board shelving injects Kandinsky-like rhythms. Ten-foot-high ceilings give altitude to modest-scale rooms.

equipment and phone wiring were cleared out, Susan saw the Cinderella in it. “It isn’t a pretentious house,” she says. “It keeps the character of old Hawai‘i. It really reflects the history of the island and island architecture.” She was inspired to keep that sense of history and place while reversing the work of time and tide. “The floor plan was always terrific,” she says. Jim and Susan took the house through three major revisions. First they cleaned the place up and put screens on the windows, installed irrigation to beautify the yards. “This is an indoor-outdoor house,” she says, though “outdoor-indoor” might be more accurate. In the late eighties, they remodeled the kitchen and great room, replaced the ceilings, and added a second floor with a master bedroom. Then they reworked the cozy-scale rooms on the east side of the house as a “children’s wing,” converting the garage into a family room. After two-thirds of a seaside century, the building’s beams and bones had reached their twilight years. “Finally we couldn’t remodel it any more,” says Susan. So in 2002, “we gutted the house.” They brought the whole structure down, “pretty much,” finding all sorts of gimcrack components such as siding made of old fruit crates with the labels still intact. Then they recreated the house on the same foundation just as it had been, or just as it ought to have been. This meant far more than simply adhering to the floor plan. They remade the windows and walls in their original places, and they stuck with the carpentry style, reminiscent of Shaker construction, that you see Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

Island Living AT HOME

The guest room illustrates the owners’ leading design principle: that the colors within the home echo the blue-green-aqua, wind-andcloud-white hues outside. The integrity of that decision carries over to exterior treatments, such as an added wing that includes two garages (note the antique-style doors) and, as daughter Annie puts it, “Dad’s man cave.”

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in the old cane houses—the board-and-batten ceilings and walls, the simple built-in shelves and cupboards, the vertical wainscoting of bevel-edged boards, kitchen cabinets with plain glass doors framed in white. Glass knobs on the cabinet doors. A lot of honest one-by lumber in evidence. In a myriad of interior details, the house mirrors its setting. A clean cloud-white predominates in the main rooms, even in the appliances and telephones, and the accents are all blues and greens. “Ocean colors,” says Susan. “We took our colors exactly from the ocean. We spent hours finding them.” As a result, the interior “almost feels like water.” The key design principle: “We wanted to keep with a sense of place.” As she says this, I can’t help but remember that the “place” happens to come with tsunamis. History suggests that the beloved house is set for a knockout punch, who knows when. Clearly, the present owners’ love for the house is one of those heedless, Anna Kareninatype affairs. Perhaps the only explanation for their recklessness is the fact that they haven’t yet experienced a full-on slammer like the last one in 1960. Their next-door neighbor, though, an elderly widow named Barbara, has lived in her house since 1954. So I called on her to ask what it’s like to undergo a tsunami. She kindly obliged. We sat on a pune‘e with her cats and looked out at the sea. They had had ample warning, she told me. In fact, three false alarms preceded the real one, and each time they had packed up the four kids, the essentials, the grandmother, and driven inland to the end of the road where they could watch the lights of their house and wait for something to happen. The fourth time, about midnight, they heard a freight-train-like roar, and they saw the lights in the house go off. In the morning they discovered the house relocated inland against a monkeypod tree. The entire face of the structure had been wiped

free of window glass. Walls were knocked silly, the refrigerator relocated, the remaining furniture scattered, and even the rearmost rooms stained with water and mud. “It was character-building,” she said with a smile. “You need to be pushed around every so often.” They put the house back up on its foundation, a little higher this time. Rebuilding was never in question. As we looked out at the waves, which rolled endlessly toward us, she said, as if by way of explanation, “Heaven can’t be more beautiful than this.”

The kitchen reprises the style of earlier plantation homes— with a few modern conveniences, like the microwave and TV. Another fixture: Nala, the family’s venerable dachshund. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

Island Living GREAT FINDS

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FASHION PLATES Learn to form and fire clay plates and bowls at Hui Noe‘au Visual Arts Center. Call or visit website for fall class schedule and price. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-6560, HuiNoeau.com.

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PADDLE BOARD* 14”x8”x5⁄8” koa serving board, $129 online. Martin & MacArthur, The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 866-5688; Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 866-5491; The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8918844; MartinAndMacArthur.com.

HEAVEN SCENT Aromatic salve of shea butter, castor-bean oil, beeswax, oils of lavender, rosemary, and rose geranium. 4 oz. $20 online. Ali‘i Kula Lavender, 1100 Waipoli Rd., Kula, 878-3004, AliiKulaLavender.com.

THOROUGHLY (STUDIO) MODERNE

Walker Zanger’s Claremont Dimensional marble tile. 121⁄16”x613⁄16”, $158.65/sq. ft. Maui Marble & Granite, 874 Alua St., Wailuku, 2428400, MauiMarbleAndGranite.net.

HEAD TO TOWN* Maui scroll linen pillow cover, 18”x18”, $20 online. SOHA Living, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 868-3430; Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 465-3020; 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 278-6711; SohaLiving.com.

Maui locations closed at press time. Call to confirm hours, or visit online. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

ISLAND BUSINESS

Portrait by Mieko Horikoshi

“It started out not to be a living, just something to keep me busy,” Lynn Shue recalls. “I’d just moved to Maui from O‘ahu, and took an art class at Lahaina Arts Society that Skip Helling taught. We became friends. My husband, Doug, was the comptroller for Whalers Village. One evening he came home and said there was a space. He suggested that Skip and I put a gallery there. “‘You’ll have fun,’ he said. “I had no idea how to run a business. I had three little kids! But I’ve always loved art. When I was nine, I went to the Art Institute of Chicago with my mother. I saw John Singer Sargent’s Portrait of Madame X, and said, ‘I have to be a part of that.’” On December 20, 1970, Lynn and Skip opened Village Galleries in Whalers Village. Back then, she says, Lahaina was a sleepy place. “Maui wasn’t known for tourism, let alone as an arts center.” There weren’t even many artists. “Skip and I took a trip to Honolulu, got a car and a hotel room, and looked up artists in the phone book. We’d call and say, ‘Hello. I’m starting a gallery on Maui, and would like to handle your work.’ I didn’t even have a business card, but every one of them said yes. We picked up about $20,000 worth of art. But how to get it home? We went to an art supply store on Beretania and asked whether they had any cardboard. They said there was some in the dumpster in the

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Top photo: Artists and friends gather in 1989 for a show at Village Galleries in Lahaina Cannery Mall. Standing, from left, Diana Lehr, Ian & Debbie Tremewen, Lynn Shue, Pam Andelin, Jackie Monk, Anne & Fred KenKnight. Below them, from left, George Allan, Ryan Jung, Luke Tremewen, Zilla Adams, Janet Allan, Paia Haagsma Above: Art lovers line up around the block at a reception for the 2012 Maui Plein Air Painting Invitational at the Dickenson Street gallery. Begun in 2006, the Invitational has featured paintings created on Maui by artists from around the Islands and the U.S. Mainland, with Village Galleries hosting the show for eleven years.

TOP: COURTESY OF IAN TREMEWEN; BOTTOM: JOSÉ MORALES

This was going to be a story about Village Galleries, which celebrates its fiftieth anniversary this December. But as Lynn Shue reminisced about the artists she has represented over those years, it became as much a tale of Lahaina, back when most people didn’t even know Maui was one of the Hawaiian Islands.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

ISLAND BUSINESS

IAN TREMEWEN grew up with parents who were artists. So in 1973, when he walked into Village Galleries for the first time, he says, “I felt right at home.” He had attended art school, but was still pondering whether to pursue art as a career. Then Lynn Shue took a few of Ian’s drawings, and gave him a parttime job at the gallery. “I felt very comfortable, cutting mats and talking to people about art,” he says. “When I’m in the gallery, it’s like catching up with old friends. “As an artist, it’s important to grow; your work should change over time. Lynn encourages that, and it’s pretty gutsy—you’re taking collectors on a trip. When an artist is working in a representational manner, you can drop suggestions. But when the work is more abstract, like mine, it’s harder to critique. Lynn will say, ‘I really like that,’ make suggestions, then ask, ‘What do you think?’ “You can tell when somebody respects you and your work. I’ve been in different galleries, in different countries, over the years, and nobody is like Lynn. When I say I wouldn’t be an artist if it wasn’t for Lynn, it’s true.”

Wailua Falls, Hana with Cave (watercolor, 30”x22”)

back. So we bought some tape, drove the car around, took out the cardboard and wrapped the paintings. We got to the airport—that was when puddle jumpers flew to Maui—checked in our boxes and flew home. We were so excited! We get back to Maui, and . . . ‘Where’s John Young’s paintings?’ We called the airlines; we had left them leaning against a post! The airlines got them back to us.” After Skip left Hawai‘i in 1972, Lynn became the gallery’s sole proprietor. In 1971, a visitor arrived with a small portfolio of paintings by his friend, a California artist named Fred KenKnight. Lynn took one look . . . and has carried Fred’s work ever since. She gained not only an artist, but a colleague: when Fred and his wife, Anne, moved to Maui in 1976, Anne became an integral part of the business. They were still in Whalers Village two years later when the artist Helen Byron called Lynn. “She said, ‘I have a gallery on Dickenson. I want to sell it.’” Built in the 1930s, the modest structure had housed a kindergarten early on (a class picture still hangs outside). During World War II,

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it became a makeshift movie house. Helen’s asking price for the lease was $50,000. “Nobody had that kind of money in those days,” says Lynn, “but Anne suggested having all the artists chip in. Sixteen of them each put in $2,500—David Warren even took out a mortgage on his house!” “Fred wrote the first check,” Anne adds with a smile. “Within ten days,” says Lynn, “I had money in the bank.” The Whalers Village location was roughly 900 square feet, room for a dozen artists at most. Opening a second space on Dickenson allowed Lynn to represent more artists’ work, and give more room to those who had been with her from the start. In exchange, each artist who had invested in the gallery had an annual show; they were the only artists represented in that gallery for five years. The list included artists well known in Hawai‘i today: George Allan, Joyce Clark, Betty Hay Freeland, Fred KenKnight, David Warren, Lowell Mapes, Hiroshi Tagami and Lau Chun. Lynn kept the Whalers Village gallery and put Anne in charge.

Macario Pascual (left) and Ian Tremewen were teenagers when they held a show at Lahaina Arts Society in 1980. That’s the newspaper article written about them at the time; this photo of them in Village Galleries was taken a few years ago.

TOP RIGHT: COURTESY OF VILLAGE GALLERIES

Sweet Cane (oil, 39”x31”)

MACARIO PASCUAL was in elementary school in 1967, the year a handful of artists formed the Lahaina Arts Society. He was in high school when Village Galleries opened, in college when Lynn Shue saw his work displayed at the Society. “I tell her she robbed the cradle,” he laughs. “Macario went to college in Honolulu, partly on a scholarship from the arts society,” Lynn recalls. “In summers, he’d paint and show works with me.” Two or three other galleries had shown his work, but Macario soon realized that they weren’t for him. “I wanted to be with a gallery that would let me grow,” he says. “Galleries come and go, and many will control the prices, and be slow to pay. And if you’re exclusively with them, and don’t sell, you’re gone. Lynn would pay in two weeks, and if she knew you needed money, she’d write you a check even before a painting sold. “Another thing I love about her gallery: Lynn has never restricted me. Other galleries wanted you to paint seascapes and waterfalls; those would sell—and the walls of a gallery are prime real estate. But there’s only so many sunsets or waterfalls you can paint; after a while, you lose the passion. Lynn took what I painted, so I could keep painting things that excited me, like cane workers and pineapple workers. That started a very good run with her gallery; she gave me shows that sold out. “I just had my forty-fourth or fortyfifth show with her. That’s how long our relationship has been.”

Hot in Pink (oil, 45.5”x34”) Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

ISLAND BUSINESS

Fleming Beach (watercolor, 40”x60”) 1998

For several years, she had a third gallery, on Front Street, in a building that’s now Frida’s Mexican Beach House Restaurant. “George had a studio there,” says Lynn. “Janet, his wife, had a little antique store on the side, but didn’t want it. She said, ‘Put a gallery there. You’ll have George working next door.’ We did, with Janet as manager. There was a terrible orange-and-green-flecked carpet, but we were on a very tight shoestring. We were painting the walls, and this guy walks in and says, ‘Is this the Village Gallery? I’ve got some carpet to lay.’ We hadn’t ordered it. It was from Joyce Clark.” Lynn and Anne closed the Whalers Village gallery in 1983. Three years later, they were offered a space in Lahaina Cannery Mall during its renovation. An architect estimated that building interior walls, installing air-conditioning, and so forth would cost $100,000. Lynn almost declined the offer. “Joyce Clark, my art angel, put her condo

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up on a loan and gave me the money. “So many people have touched my life. The artists have been so generous. From my beginnings to now, art has raised me up.” As tourism grew, hotels started commissioning Lynn and Anne, earning the gallery a reputation for being able to produce and install large bodies of work. “That got us into the Ritz-Carlton, which had never used local artists in their hotels,” Lynn says. “But Colin Cameron owned the land the Ritz was being built on. His wife Pam Andelin was one of my artists; both of them were dear friends. Colin told the Ritz, ‘You can use my land, but you have to use local artists.’” Frank Nicholson was the decorator for all the Ritz hotels. He said he wanted to see whether the artwork had the caliber to be in the one on Maui.

ANNE KENKNIGHT

FRED KENKNIGHT was displaying his art in La Jolla, California, when Anne met him. “In 1976,” she recalls, “we purchased a van and traveled all over the country.” Wherever they stopped, Fred painted. “People would come up and buy the paintings.” Steve Jackson was the friend who walked into Village Galleries and introduced Lynn to Fred’s art. “His parents lived in Pā‘ia, and Steve kept asking us to come,” Anne says. They did. By then Lynn had been carrying Fred’s work for five years— without their having met. “We’d get an envelope from Village Galleries, and there’d be a check inside,” says Anne. “And always a note from Lynn, saying ‘I love your work.’ When we walked into the gallery, there was Lynn. We felt like longtime friends.” Jon KenKnight was seven the year Art Maui started. His older brother, Dan, asked Lynn if they could enter Art Maui. “Lynn told them, ‘I think you should,’” says Fred. “John got in!” Anne adds with a grin. “The next year, Art Maui changed the rules; you had to be eighteen. But Lynn sold their little watercolors in the gallery. She’s been like an aunty to the boys. I call her the Mother Teresa of art.”

GEORGE ALLAN arrived on Maui in 1973, sailing into Lahaina Harbor aboard the Carthaginian, the 1920 steel-hulled sailboat that berthed at Lahaina Harbor for decades, serving as a museum for the town’s whaling past. “Can I be gushy?” he asks. “Lynn put me on my feet, got me going in art full-time. When I got here, I was selling my stuff for $25 on the street. I’ve been with her for forty-six years. “And of course, Anne KenKnight has always been important. She’s been the manager of the Ritz gallery ever since it opened. “One night the ladies there were going out for a drink, and I said I’d watch the place. They were gone two or three hours. When Lynn came back, I said I’d sold one thing: a brown print. She said, ‘What was its name, and who was the artist?’ I didn’t know. All Lynn did was laugh. She asked what the print looked like and figured it out.” BOTTOM: COURTESY OF ANNE KENKNIGHT; TOP: COURTESY OF JANET ALLAN

Six Koi Friends (24”xx14” oil on linen)

“Can I be gushy? Lynn put me on my feet, got me going in art full-time.”

Kula Sunset View (9” x 12” oil on linen)

Anne KenKnight (left) and Lynn Shue (right) celebrate George’s 60th birthday circa 1998. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

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“Lynn and I put together a portfolio, and Colin hand-carried it to Boston,” says Anne. “Frank picked out four artists for the public areas: George Allan, Betty Hay, Joyce Clark and Fred.” “He says, ‘This artist, George Allan, this Betty Hay, can they do 50x60?’” Lynn adds. “They hadn’t painted anything that big, but I told him, ‘Oh, yes. Any size you want.’” The Ritz also invited Lynn to open a gallery of work by the artists displayed at the hotel. “We’ve been there twenty-eight years,” she smiles. Village Galleries now represents 120 artists in its Ritz-Carlton and Dickenson Street locations. That’s just the current roster. “This guy comes in one day,” Lynn recalls, “and says, ‘Do you remember me?’ I had once put a few of his pieces in the gallery. He told me, ‘You gave me such encouragement. I went to Honolulu and became an illustrator. Every time I think that I can’t deal with a problem, I think of you, who said, ‘Go do it.’”

COURTESY OF BETTY HAY FREELAND

SHOP MAUI

BETTY HAY FREELAND moved to Maui not long after her husband, Keoki, became the head of Pioneer Mill, back when it was still an active sugar mill. “She had painted before,” Lynn recalls, “but not seriously. One day she saw a piece of art and said, ‘That’s too expensive. I can paint that.’ She did.” “I was still on O‘ahu,” says Betty Hay. “A drug store in Pioneer Inn showed my small paintings. When I came back to Maui, they said this gal [Lynn] had taken them to this place called Whalers Village that was just opening. I’ve been with her ever since.” Betty Hay was one of the artists who helped Lynn buy the gallery on Dickenson. “You’d get repaid as your work sold; she wouldn’t take commission. And you’d get an annual show.” How many paintings has Lynn sold for her over the years? Betty Hay laughs. “I don’t know. I’m not even sure Lynn does. She’s in it because of her love for the arts and the artists.”

ISLAND BUSINESS

Maui Glow, oil on linen, 36”x60” (Giclées of this piece are available at the Village Galleries.)

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Mary Anne Fitch R(B) - HI License RB-15747 Mary Anne has been representing exclusive oceanfront, beachfront, ocean-view, golf course, and resort properties since 1988. She has sold over $750 million in real estate transactions and is the recipient of multiple #1 Maui Realtor awards. Hawaii Life Real Estate Brokers Sold@Maui.net | SoldMaui.com 808-250-1583

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Rick Brandt R(S) HI License RS-75730 Rick was born and raised in Hawai‘i and spent 20 years in Silicon Valley honing his marketing skills. He specializes in vacation rental second homes as well as assisting local buyers and sellers in Central Maui. Island Sotheby’s International Realty Rick@BrandtHawaii.com BrandtHawaii.com | 808-856-6200

TOP AGENTS

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Heidi Dollinger R(S) - HI License RS-76325 Heidi brings an extensive design background to her expertise in Maui real estate. She specializes in luxury home and condominium sales in West Maui, and is a past president and charter member of the Rotary Club of Lahaina Sunset. Island Sotheby’s International Realty Heidi@IslandSothebysRealty.com 808-359-4245

Wendy Peterson R(S) - HI License RS-61995 Wendy Rice Peterson is an award-winning realtor focusing on residential and vacantland properties. With Maui roots that go back six generations, she makes connections based on a lifetime of local knowledge, community involvement, and sincere aloha. Island Sotheby’s International Realty Wendy@IslandSothebysRealty.com 808-870-4114

AN EXCLUSIVE LOOK AT THE BEST-PERFORMING REAL ESTATE AGENTS

Deb Merle R(B) - HI License RB-15387 For 30-plus years, Deb Merle has helped real estate buyers and sellers, sharing her insider’s knowledge of the Maui market and bringing deep dedication to clients. No wonder she’s garnered Realtor of the Year and other awards! Island Sotheby’s International Realty Debra@IslandSothebysRealty.com HomeOnMaui.com | 808-283-0049

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

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Dining

Crunchy almond streusel and meringue cookies create a delicious counterpoint to fluffy liliko‘i mousse atop a slice of chocolate cake. Pair it with Lineage’s Funky Cold Mahina cocktail, whose recipe you’ll find in “Maui Mixology” on page 72.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

MauiMagazine.net

Dining Feature

STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

SARAH BECKER WITH JANET BECKER PHOTOGRAPHY.

Pfffft!

I pop open a can of nitro-brew coffee, and as I take my first sip, a mist of cool bubbles greets my nose. The light, effervescent drink is just what I need on this muggy morning. It’s 9 a.m. and I’m in Olinda with a gathering of the movers and shakers of agriculture on Maui. Chef Rob Ramshur, the owner of li hing mui (crack seed) company Traveling Plum, has laid out a spread of eggs, his homemade take on SPAM, and other breakfast delights. I grab a plate and listen to Heather Brisson-Lutz relate how, in 2018, she took the leap to follow her coffee passion and start her own business: Origin Coffee Roasters.

Right, from top: Red coffee cherries sound the alarm: PICK ME! • Heather Brisson-Lutz takes a break inside Maui Brewing Company, the location of her coffee roaster and the canning site for Origin Coffee Roasters. • Perfectly roasted beans cool quickly in a special unit.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

Dining Feature

Heather’s caffeinated journey took her from a job in a coffee shop in her hometown of Columbus, Ohio, to working as a barista at Albina Press in Portland, Oregon. She shares, “The café was fairly new, but it attracted a lot of talented baristas and famous clientele. I was lucky to work in a café environment that was much like a finedining restaurant . . . where perfection was the only way to serve.” Her first coffee-roasting stint was her five years at Caffé Calabria in San Diego, where she learned the fine points of Italian-style dark roasts. Looking to broaden those skills, she went to work at the awardwinning Bird Rock Coffee Roasters in La Jolla, California, in 2012. “They had just won Micro Roaster of the Year, an award given by Coffee Review,” Heather says. In 1997, as its website notes, that influential guide introduced “the first-ever 100-point, wine-style coffee reviews to the specialty coffee industry. Our mission is to help consumers identify and enjoy superior quality coffees and, in the process . . . reward the farmers and roasters who invest time, passion, and capital in producing high quality coffee beans.” In 2016, Heather roasted a Kenya Guama Peaberry for Bird Rock that scored the highest points for Coffee of the Year as rated by the tasting panel at Coffee Review. Her path led next to Maui to join her wife, Kim Lutz, a master brewer at Maui Brewing Company in Kīhei. A year later, Heather began to plan a new venture: Origin Coffee Roasters. She established international business partnerships with coffee farmers; relationships nurtured during her employment with various coffee roasters laid the foundation for her endeavor. I ask, “Do you ever visit the coffee growers?” Smiling, she says, “We try to visit direct trade partners, such as Finca Loma La Gloria in El Salvador, during the middle of the harvest season; this gives us the chance to try coffees that were harvested at

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the start of the season and see which coffees we want to buy.” Maui’s local growers have also benefitted from her roasting skills. In 2019, she approached Gerry Ross and Janet Simpson, owners of Kupa‘a Farms in Kula, about submitting their organic coffees for Coffee Review’s Hawai‘i tasting report. “I did three separate roasts of different varieties of beans. Kim Westerman, who runs the lab at Coffee Review, was particularly excited about the quality of the coffees from this little farm on Maui.” Talk about perks. Westerman, who is also Coffee Review’s managing editor, is a licensed Q-grader, qualified to rate coffees according to the Specialty Coffee Association of America’s 100-point scale. In blind tastings, SCAA experts sampled thousands of coffees from all over the world, and ranked Kupa‘a Farms’ #16 of the top 30—not just in Hawai‘i, but worldwide. Kupa‘a Farms’ Orange Bourbon coffee scored 93 points, the only Maui coffee to make it into the review. The SCAA’s extensive tasting notes described it as “bright, crisply sweettart. Peach, honeysuckle, cinnamon, cedar, cacao nib in aroma and cup. Richly sweet, high-toned structure with citrusy acidity; crisp, silky mouthfeel. Peach and honeysuckle carry the short finish, while cocoa-toned cedar resurfaces in the long. (See the full report at coffeereview.com/top-30-coffees-2019). I take another sip of my coffee, roasted, brewed and canned on Maui by Origin Coffee Roasters. I can taste the freshness and know that these specially sourced green beans were roasted to highlight their quality and nuances. Like the other one billion coffee drinkers in the world, it may be a long road to educate my palate, but I’m not stopping anytime soon. To buy direct: 605 Līpoa Parkway, Kīhei, HI 96753 www.origincoffeemaui.com

SARAH BECKER WITH JANET BECKER PHOTOGRAPHY

Owner Anny Pimentel of Finca Loma La Gloria, a specialty coffee business in El Salvador, stands among her managers, farm workers and packers following a successful harvest. Opposite: Kupa‘a Farms owner Gerry Ross gets a visit from Heather during harvest season on Maui.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

Dining Highlights

STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

Do you remember your first cup of joe? I was a teenager when I drank my first cup of coffee (percolated, not dripped). It tasted so delicious laced with canned evaporated milk and a heaping spoonful of sugar. I’ve been addicted to coffee ever since! In those days, Hawai‘i Island’s Kona Coffee brand was in its infancy, and unlike coffee grown elsewhere, it had a flavor profile all its own, garnering praise from lovers of the smooth, caffeinated eye-opener.

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Enter Maui-grown coffee. In July 2017, Maui won the Hawaii Coffee Association’s statewide coffee-cupping competition with a submission from Olinda Organic Farms. Today, the island’s number of coffee farms continues to multiply, as the Maui Coffee Association continues to set standards of excellence for growing, harvesting and processing. We asked a few of our favorite chefs for recipes using Maui coffee. Talk about creative!

Above left: Lee Anne Wong’s black sesame doughnuts with coffee crème anglaise. Above: Craig Dryhurst’s Hawaiian Coffee-rubbed Pork Tacos with MangoCoffee BBQ Sauce (recipe on page 70)

COURTESY OF KOKO HEAD CAFÉ

THE GREAT COFFEE CHALLENGE

Papa‘aina, Pioneer Inn Black Sesame Doughnut with Coffee Crème Anglaise

COURTESY OF THE FOUR SEASONS

A former Top Chef producer and returning competitor, Lee Anne Wong is Papa‘aina’s chef/proprietor. Here’s a recipe from her first successful Hawai‘i restaurant: O‘ahu’s Koko Head Café. Black Sesame Doughnuts YIELD: 3 dozen | PREP TIME: 45 minutes, plus 2 hours to chill dough Coffee Crème Anglaise recipe follows. 1 c. sugar 2 large eggs 1 c. sour cream ½ tsp. vanilla extract 1/3 c. melted butter

3½ c. cake flour 1 tsp. salt ½ tsp. baking soda 1 tsp. baking powder 2 tbsp. black sesame seeds, toasted and ground In a stand mixer on medium speed, beat eggs and sugar with paddle to ribbon stage (till it turns pale and reaches a thick consistency). Add the sour cream and vanilla extract, and mix until incorporated, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Slowly pour in the melted butter. Turn speed to low and add the dry ingredients. Mix until just incorporated, being careful not to overwork the dough. Scrape down the bowl to make sure everything is mixed. Line a halfsheet tray with parchment paper, spread donut dough, and top with another piece

of parchment. Chill in the refrigerator until the dough is firm. Preheat fry oil to 350°F. Roll dough into 1-inch balls. Fry a few at a time until golden and cooked in the middle. Coat lightly, dusting with powdered sugar or cinnamon sugar. Serve while hot with the coffee crème anglaise. Coffee Crème Anglaise YIELD: 6 cups | PREP TIME: 30 minutes 2¼ c. milk 2¼ c. heavy cream 1/4 c. finely ground Maui coffee 1 tsp. vanilla extract 8 large egg yolks 1 c. granulated sugar In a heavy-bottom saucepan, simmer the milk, cream, coffee grinds, and vanilla Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

Dining Highlights extract for approximately 10 minutes to infuse the coffee; do not let boil. Whisk the eggs and sugar in a clean bowl until the mixture is pale yellow and a ribbon forms. Add a cup of the hot cream mixture into the beaten egg yolks and sugar, whisking to incorporate, tempering the egg yolks. Add the egg mixture back to the pot with the remaining cream and cook on medium heat, stirring continuously until the crème anglaise is thickened and coats the back of the spoon. Transfer the sauce to a metal bowl and place in an ice bath to cool immediately. Cover and refrigerate.

Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea Hawaiian Coffee-rubbed Pork Tacos with MangoCoffee BBQ Sauce

“I love the combination of coffee and pork,” says Executive Chef Craig Dryhurst. “The coffee gives a bitter, smoky element to the meat and really elevates the flavor. The Hawaiian coffee varietals I recommend for this dish are Mokka, which has fruity (black cherry) and woody characteristics, and Typika, whose spicy and cocoa characteristics blend with smoky and nutty notes. Both have the boldness to stand up to the recipe’s tangy BBQ sauce, and work incredibly well with a slow-cooked, juicy pork.” Coffee-rubbed, Slow-cooked Pork YIELD: 4–6 servings PREP TIME: 1½ hours; cooking 8½ hours 3½ lbs. Boston butt or pork shoulder 1 oz. (approx. 3 Tbsp.) Hawai’i coffee beans, powdered ½ c. brown sugar ½ Tbsp. cayenne pepper ½ Tbsp. salt 1 Tbsp. black pepper, cracked 1 tsp. garlic, minced ½ tsp. smoked paprika Grind the coffee beans into a fine powder. Combine the coffee grounds, brown sugar, cayenne, salt, black pepper, garlic, and smoked paprika in a bowl. Cover the pork with the dry rub on all sides. Preheat oven to 300°F. Place the pork in a pan and cover tightly with aluminum foil. Cook the pork for 8 hours or until very tender. Once the pork is cooked, remove it from oven, place on a clean pan and let sit for 30 minutes. Shred the pork meat using forks, and set aside.

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Mango-Coffee BBQ Sauce YIELD: Approximately 4 cups PREP TIME: 1 hour 2 Tbsp. olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 4 garlic cloves, minced 2 jalapeños, seeded and minced 1 ∕3 c. dark brown sugar 2 Tbsp. Hawaiian honey 2 Tbsp. chili powder 1 tsp. ground cumin 2 Tbsp. molasses 3 Tbsp. chopped cilantro 1 28-oz. can crushed tomatoes 1 Hawaiian mango, peeled, stoned and chopped 1 Tbsp. tomato purée 1 c. chicken broth 1 c. strong-brewed Hawaiian coffee Heat oil in a large, heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onions, garlic, and jalapeño; sauté until onions are tender, about 7 minutes. Add brown sugar, honey, chili powder, molasses, cilantro, and cumin; stir until sugar dissolves. Stir in crushed tomatoes and purée, mango, broth, and coffee; bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer uncovered until sauce thickens slightly and is reduced to 4 cups, stirring often, for about 35 minutes. Blend the sauce till smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. ASSEMBLY 6 corn tortillas 12 oz. cooked pulled pork ½ avocado 6 pickled jalapeños, sliced 1 tomato 1 oz. red onion, peeled and thinly sliced ½ green onion, thinly sliced 2 limes, cut into wedges 3 oz. sour cream 1 Tbsp. cilantro leaves ½ c. mango-coffee barbecue sauce 1 Tbsp. ground Hawaiian coffee, powdered Reheat the pulled pork with a splash of water in a pan. Once it’s hot, add the BBQ sauce and mix well. Set aside and keep warm. In a hot skillet, sear the tortillas on both sides, set aside and keep warm. Peel the avocado and remove the seed. Mash the flesh with a fork until quite smooth. Season with lime juice, salt and pepper. Place a spoonful of the avocado on

Māla Ocean Tavern’s Malasadas with MĀLA Mocha Sauce

the tortillas. Spoon the BBQ pork on top. Garnish with the green onion, red onion, tomato, pickled jalapeños, sour cream, cilantro leaves and a pinch of the coffee powder. (Serve with more BBQ sauce, if desired.) Enjoy!

Māla Ocean Tavern Malasadas with MĀLA Mocha Sauce

Like most kids growing up on Maui, Sous Chef Mark Duque always looked forward to eating malasadas (Portuguese doughnuts) at the Maui County Fair. When asked to create a new dessert for the restaurant, he decided to recreate this iconic local treat— with a twist: a decadent mocha sauce. “At Māla, we use the finest dark chocolate and blend it with our famous MĀLA Specialty coffee from Maui Oma Coffee Roasters.”

MĀLA Mocha Sauce YIELD: 2½ cups | PREP TIME: 20 minutes

COURTESY OF MĀLA OCEAN TAVERN

8 oz. 85% dark chocolate 1½ c. heavy whipping cream ¾ c. sugar ¾ tsp. vanilla extract 3 Tbsp. light corn syrup 3 Tbsp. Maui Oma Coffee Roasters “MĀLA Specialty Blend,” ground (available at MauiOmaCoffee.com) Combine ingredients in a saucepan. Slowly heat on low, making sure to melt, not burn, the chocolate. Melt fully, remove from heat, and let sit for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour through a fine mesh strainer. Although Māla was unable to share their secret recipe for malasadas, Wanda Adams’s cookbook A Portuguese-Hawai‘i Kitchen* is a great go-to reference for these delightful

doughnuts. We adapted the recipe, which was selected as the best of the best at the 1981 Hawai‘i Council on Portuguese Heritage. Get the book! There’s a bonus: a second malasada recipe! Malasadas YIELD: 5 dozen malasadas | PREP TIME: 20 minutes + 2½ hours for dough to rise, + 45 minutes to 1 hour frying time 1 tsp. sugar 2 pkgs. (or 2 Tbsp.) dry yeast 1 ∕3 c. very warm water (110°F) 8 c. flour, sifted 1 c. sugar 1 tsp. salt ½ c. (1 stick) butter, melted 6 whole eggs 7 egg yolks 1 1∕3 c. evaporated milk 1 1∕3 c. water

vegetable oil for frying granulated sugar for coating doughnuts In a small bowl, dissolve sugar and yeast in warm water. Set aside for 5 minutes, until bubbly. In a large bowl, sift together flour, sugar and salt. Add melted butter, whole eggs, egg yolks and yeast mixture. Mix well to a smooth batter. In another bowl, blend the evaporated milk and water. Slowly mix into the flour mixture. Cover and let rise for 2 hours. Punch down and let rise again for 30 minutes. In a deep fryer or heavy-bottom pot, heat 3 inches of oil to 375°F. Pinch off a ball of dough 1 ½ inches or smaller; carefully place in the oil. Cook only a few doughnuts at a time, so the oil doesn’t cool. Turn doughnuts when golden brown on bottom. Keep turning as needed until cooked through. Drain on paper towels. Roll in sugar while warm. *Order the book online at MutualPublishing.com Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

Maui Mixology

COOL BREW Try this coffee-inspired recipe for the Funky Cold Mahina. STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

We challenged April Leslie, mixologist at Lineage restaurant in Wailea, to create a drink featuring coffee as a key ingredient. The result? The kind of cocktail that comes along once in a brew moon. “The Funky Cold Mahina was inspired by a Dirty Chai Latte [espresso + chai tea]. We combine Vitalitea’s Nitro Cold Brew Coffee with our house-made Coconut Almond Chai Syrup, add Drambuie and Averna Amaro Siciliano liqueurs, and Diplomático rum to bring it all together. We chose Vitalitea Hawai‘i’s Hapa Cold Brew for its smooth, velvety mouth feel and fresh, tropical, chocolatey flavor, as well as [Vitalitea’s] commitment to using locally roasted Maui Red Catuai coffee beans.”

The Funky Cold Mahina YIELD: 1 cocktail 1 oz. Almond-Coconut Chai Syrup (Recipe follows.) 1 oz. Diplomático Rum 2 oz. Vitalitea Nitro Cold Brew ½ oz. Averna Amaro ¼ oz. Drambuie Build cocktail in a small shaker tin. Fill the tin to ¾ with crushed ice. Quick-shake and roll into tulip glass. Top with more ice if needed. Garnish with cinnamon, edible flower and orange peel. Almond-Coconut-Chai Syrup YIELD: About 5 cups PREP TIME: 20 minutes

Toast the cinnamon, cloves, allspice and cardamom in pot over medium heat to release oils. Slowly add almond milk, sugar and ginger. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Let cool, strain and add coconut milk. Keep refrigerated.

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LINEAGE

2 cinnamon sticks 4 cloves 3 allspice berries 3 cardamom pods, cracked 25 g. ginger, peeled and chopped 2 c. sugar 2 c. almond milk ¾ c. coconut milk

808 875 2210 | korestaurant.com |

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Two of Mauiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s award-winning restaurants | One distinct address

808 879 7224 | nicksfishmarketmaui.com |

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Dining Guide

B=Breakfast BR=Brunch L=Lunch H=Happy Hour D=Dinner N=Dinner past 9 p.m. R=Reservation recommended $=Average entrée under $15 $$=Under $25 $$$=Under $40 $$$$=$40+ =‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2020

WEST SIDE A‘A ROOTS Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Ste. 3, Nāpili, 298-2499 Vegan cuisine made with the freshest Maui produce. Try the açai bowl, soba bowl with peanut sauce, or bagel sandwich with hummus, avo and veggies. International. B, L. $ ALALOA LOUNGE Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200 Creative farm-to-table cocktails, mocktails and an exciting selection of savory dishes from the menu, such as juicy huli huli chicken, sushi and stone-oven pizza. International, D, $–$$ ALOHA MIXED PLATE 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322 Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $ AMIGO’S 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210 Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ AUNTIE’S KITCHEN The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3259 Saimin, burgers and fresh-fish plate lunches mingle with other local fare. Local Mixed Plate. B, L, D. $–$$ THE BANYAN TREE 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096 Chef Bella Toland’s interpretation of her grandmother’s pancit palabok is a Filipino noodle dish full of shrimp and calamari, finished with a lobster-stock reduction in annatto-ginger-garlic-shrimp sauce, and topped with herbs, chicharron, and garlic. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$ BREAKWALL SHAVE ICE COMPANY The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., #104, Lahaina, 661-4900 Adult shave ice? You bet! Cool off with one of the best snow cones on Maui, and discover your favorite flavor. Treats. $ CANE & CANOE Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681 Try the eggs Benedict and mimosas for breakfast and prime select steaks with horseradish creme fraiche for dinner. Fresh pasta with Hāmākua mushrooms in walnut cream sauce? Yum! Kidfriendly. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$–$$$$ CAPTAIN JACK’S ISLAND GRILL The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 672 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0988 Choices include Sirens’ shrimp, Black Bart’s BBQ chicken salad, and Black Beard’s Philly cheesesteak. American. L, D. $–$$ CHEESEBURGER IN PARADISE 811 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4855. Wake up to oceanfront views as you sip a cuppa’ joe and

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dig into a luscious breakfast. For lunch, try the poke, wings, onion rings and salad, or a hefty cheeseburger. For dinner, Aloha Fish and Fries. B, L, D. International. $-$$. CHOICE HEALTH BAR 1087 Limahana Pl., #1A, Lahaina, 661-7711 Juices, smoothies, salads, soups, and açai bowls are all made with fresh ingredients. Specials daily. Second West Maui location: Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali. American. B, L. $ CLIFF DIVE GRILL Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031 Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$ THE COFFEE STORE Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 669-4170 Stop in for a coffee and muffin . . . and you may end up staying for lunch—or later. (They’re open till 6 p.m.) Great service and fresh-baked goods, yogurtgranola parfaits, chia pudding, and to-go items. Coffee Shop. B, L, D. $ COOL CAT CAFÉ The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908 Burgers, chicken, and more in a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $ DOWN THE HATCH The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900 Mermaid fries with cheese, bacon, ranch dressing and lava sauce; towering shrimp cocktails; fresh island fish; and lots of Southern aloha. Great shave ice, too! (See Breakwall’s listing.) Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D, N, R. $$ DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$ DUKE’S BEACH HOUSE MAUI Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900 Imagine Old Hawai‘i while dining on crab-and-macadamia-nut wontons or prime rib at this open-air beach house. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R. $$ FEAST AT LELE 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353 This classic beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$ FLEETWOOD’S ON FRONT ST. 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. (Yes, that Fleetwood.) Pacific oysters with a tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome, and a onepound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. Bar opens at 2 p.m. American/British Pub Food. L, H, D, N. $$–$$$$

Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call (area code: 808) or visit their social-media sites before heading out.

FOND Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Ste. 115, Nāpili, 856-0225. Breakfast silog bowls with garlic fried rice, sammies for lunch, Wednesday night fried chicken special and Saturday Chef's Table. Eurasian. B,L,D. $-$$ FRIDA’S MEXICAN BEACH HOUSE 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287 Chalupas, fresh aguachile ‘ahi, short-rib tacos, and great mixology are among the reasons this seaside restaurant won the Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Mexican Cuisine. Latin-inspired. L, H, D. $–$$ GAZEBO Napili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Nāpili, 669-5621. All day! Breakfast for lunch, lunch for breakfast. Fluffy pancakes, omelettes, plate lunches with Cajun-spiced chicken or kalua pork, salads, and seven burgers to choose from. And ocean views are free. International, B, Br, L. $ HONU SEAFOOD & PIZZA 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390 Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$ HULA GRILL Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636 Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy poke tacos, tiki mai tais, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D. $$ INU POOL BAR The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6370 Island-fresh mixology earned Inu the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best Cocktails. Taste for yourself—and enjoy Maui Brewing Company’s Coconut Hiwa beer-can chicken with shoestring potatoes and buttermilk dip, or Maui beer-battered tempura fish with Ocean Vodka tartar sauce. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D. $–$$ JAPENGO Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Great steaks and authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood are just two of the reasons Japengo won ‘Aipono’s 2019 Gold Award as Restaurant of the Year. Japanese. D, N. $$$ JOEY’S KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474 Second West Maui location: Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590 You can start your day with macadamia-nut pancakes or kāluapork omelet at Whalers Village and end at Joey’s Nāpili venue with the best dinner ever. Chef Joey Macadangdang knows good food. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ LAHAINA GRILL 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117 Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad; Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi

SEA-TO-TABLE CUISINE On Napili Bay

AWARD

WINNING

Hawaii Magazine’s Third Annual Reader’s Choice Awards: Named One of the Top Five ”Best Hotel/Resort Restaurants” and "Best for Breakfast" in the state of Hawaii

OCEANFRONT Rated “Excellent” by Zagat

Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner • Happy Hour

DINING

Maui No Ka Oi Magazine’s Annual Maui Restaurant 'Aipono Culinary Awards: Best Ocean Front Dining: Gold

and Rosé all Day

Celebrating Over 55 Years of Aloha at Napili Kai Beach Resort 5900 Lower Honoapiilani Rd • Napili • Maui • Hawaii 96761 • 808.669.1500

Hours and More Information at SeaHouseMaui.com

Dining Guide More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide steak with vanilla-bean jasmine rice; or the famous Kona coffee-roasted rack of lamb with coffeecabernet demi-glace. Great wine selections and cocktails. American/Pacific Rim. D, R. $$$$ LEILANI’S ON THE BEACH Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495 Chef Ryan Luckey rocks Island flavors with a lemongrass miso salmon and Duroc pork ribs with honey BBQ glaze. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, H, D, N. $$ LEODA’S KITCHEN & PIE SHOP 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600 The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw, and ice-cold beer, or justsqueezed lemonade will make you want to dance. After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie! American. B, L, D. $ LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476 This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. Also see South Shore listing. Treats. $ MĀLA OCEAN TAVERN 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9394 Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the health-conscious and the hedonistic alike at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings are nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (Sat–Sun), L, D. $$ MAUIGROWN COFFEE COMPANY STORE 277 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-2728 If you’re running low on energy, head to MauiGrown’s plantation-style hale for a boost. Pumpkin bread and other baked goods round out a great cuppa joe. Coffee Shop/Café. B, L. $ MAUI’S BEST BANANA BREAD + COFFEE CO. 180 Dickenson St., #115, Lahaina, 661-6216 Banana, roasted macadamia nuts, and coconut—life’s essentials rolled into a single serving of sweetness. Coffees, smoothies, and lunch, too! Bacon, eggs and ham bagel, turkey-avo wrap. GF banana-bread option. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ MAUKA MAKAI The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6400 Expect the freshest fish, beef and lamb, vegetable sautés, and islandinspired desserts at this restaurant that celebrates the fishing and farming cultures of ancient Hawai‘i. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$ MERRIMAN’S KAPALUA 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua, 669-6400 Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create the most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, R. $$–$$$$ MISO PHAT SUSHI Kahana Manor, 4310 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #111, Kahana, 669-9010 See South Side listing. MOKU ROOTS 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 214-5106 Where can you find a vegan/vegetarian venue worthy of the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best New Restaurant? Same place you’ll find a Gold for tastiest Healthy Fare—here! Vegetarian/Vegan. B, L, D, R. $ MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763 See South Shore listing.

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MYTHS OF MAUI Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9119 Live music, Polynesian dance, and an Island-inspired buffet complete with kālua pig unearthed from the imu. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$ OLD LĀHAINA LŪ‘AU 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0700 Eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$ PACIFIC’O 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341 Try the breakfast locomoco with a slant: “fried rice” tots, Maui-onion gravy, and organic poached egg with housemade sausage; Kaua‘i grass-fed beef burger with cured lamb bacon topped with smoked bourbon onion jam for lunch; lobster ravioli for dinner. Hawai‘i Regional. BR (Sun), L, D. $$-$$$$ PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 632 Front St., Lahaina, 662-3456 See North Shore listing. PAPA ‘AINA Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636 Try the new, curated menu by Bravo Channel’s Top Chef competitor Lee Anne Wong. Smoked salmon Benedict for breakfast, cheesy kālua-pig nachos with a cold beer at happy hour. Dig into a plate of shrimp and Portuguese sausage linguine for dinner. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $–$$ PIZZA PARADISO MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929 Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Med. L, D. $–$$

SALE PEPE 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667 Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta like Chef Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian/Pizza. D. $$ SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286 Small and action-packed, D.K. Kodama’s classy sushi bar draws lines late into the night. Try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, R. $$$ THE SEA HOUSE RESTAURANT Napili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500 Start the day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp as the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammy-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $$$ SON’Z STEAKHOUSE Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506 Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, line-caught mahimahi in lemoncaper butter. Pacific Rim/Steak. H, D, N. $$-$$$$ STAR NOODLE 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 667-5400 Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$

PRISON STREET PIZZA 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332 East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Italian/ Pizza. L, D. $

TAVERNA 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426 House-made pastas, agrodolce-style fish of the day, and Italian desserts that stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Taverna is dining heaven. Great wine, cocktails, and craft beer. Italian. B, L, H, D. $$–$$$

PŪLEHU, AN ITALIAN GRILL The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200 Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with chocolate almond cake and amarena gelato. Italian. D. $$$

TEDDY’S BIGGER BURGERS 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111 The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $

ROCKSALT Sheraton Maui, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600 Eclectic, globally inspired share plates combine exotic spices, ingredients and flavor profiles with fresh produce from Hawai‘i farms. An equally fresh cocktail program features Hawai‘i-produced spirits and house-made infusions. Kid-friendly. International. B, H, D. R. $$–$$$ ROY’S 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999 At lunchtime, line up for a great Maui burger. For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled ginger. Save room for the signature Melting Hot Chocolate Soufflé. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $$$$ ROYAL OCEAN TERRACE RESTAURANT Royal Lahaina Resort & Spa, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-3611 Breakfast offerings include loco moco and eggs Benedict choices. Or go light with a delightful avocado toast topped with microgreens. Burgers and prime rib, too. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$

TEPPAN-YAKI DAN Sheraton Maui Resort & S, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600 Start with Oyster Dan—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko—then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate. Japanese/Steak. D, R. $$$ THAI CHEF Old Lahaina Center, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814 This small, well-loved venue keeps fans coming back for commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $ TIKI TERRACE RESTAURANT Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0011 Dine in casual comfort with the full-service menu, or challenge yourself to try all the offerings at the award-winning Sunday brunch Kidfriendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$ TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-1919 Thai food by Thai chefs—100 dishes from spring rolls and pad Thai to yellow curry with seafood. Yum! Thai. $–$$

Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call (area code: 808) or visit their social-media before heading out.

ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 790 Front St., Lahaina, 877-3700 Second West Maui location: Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali Homemade tropicalflavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Kid-friendly. Treats. $

BOTERO BAR Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures surrounding it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays, when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. L, D, H, N. $

‘ŪMALU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4902 Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D. $$$

CAFÉ O’LEI 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368 Choose from macadamia-nut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites. American/ Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$

SOUTH SHORE 1054 TOGOSHI South Maui Center, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 868-0307 Chef Manabu’s twenty-five years as a sushi chef— two of them as head chef at Morimoto’s Maui—shine through in fresh sashimi and sushi. Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of each month. Sushi. D. $-$$ AKAMAI COFFEE COMPANY 1325 S. Kīhei Rd., Unit 100, Kīhei, 868-3251 Coffee and espresso done right with beans from their own farm. Coffee Shop. $ BISTRO MOLOKINI Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh, local ingredients and served up in this casual, open-air eatery. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $$$

COCONUTS FISH CAFÉ Azeka Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979 Second South Maui location: Kama‘ole Shopping Center, 2463 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-4949 Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D. $$ DUO Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Breakfast buffet, or à la carte? Wait—did someone mention chateaubriand? Four Seasons never disappoints. Pacific Rim. B, D. $–$$$ FABIANI’S PIZZERIA & BAKERY South Maui Center, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888 Second South Shore location: 34 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 874-1234 Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made porksausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. B, L, D. $$

FERRARO’S BAR E RISTORANTE Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 For lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, H, D. $$$$ FORK & SALAD 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675 Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, gluten- and dairy-free options. International. L, D. $ FOUR SEASONS LOBBY LOUNGE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. H, D, N. $$$$ HUMUHUMU Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 ‘Aipono's 2018 Chef of the Year Alvin Savella turns out an umami-laden squid-ink risotto with crispy soft shell crab, cauliflower and fennel. For meat lovers, try Chef's prime beef filet with peppercorn jus. Great wine selections! Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$ ISLAND GOURMET MARKETS The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055 Sushi to go, deli sandwiches, plate lunches and much more. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $ KA‘ANA KITCHEN Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Start with Wagyu hanger steak on green

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

Dining Guide More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call (area code: 808) or visit their social-media before heading out. papaya salad, then charred octopus with local goat cheese. Next, Kona abalone on creamy risotto, or a modern take on chicken and waffles. There’s a curated wine list and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$ KIHEI CAFFE Kihei Kalama Village, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8792230 Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.? Head down to this surfer hangout for banana-mac-nut pancakes, loco moco and a cuppa joe. Café. B, L. $–$$ KŌ Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock”: three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, H, D. R. $$$ LEHUA LOUNGE Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Cocktails created with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients like lychee, liliko‘i and Hawaiian navel oranges go hand in hand with Ka‘ana Kitchen’s award-winning menu. Lounge. H. $ LINEAGE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8800 If steamed clams with housemade "XO" and lup cheong sausage, Maui beef with black garlic, and hulihuli chicken with pineapple kim chee get your juices flowing, head over to Wailea . . . now! Eat. Drink. Talk story. Pacific Rim. D. $–$$ LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE Kihei Kalama Village Shopping Center, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779 How to chill out in the Islands? Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with Plantation Era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut pudding) and macadamia-nut ice cream. Treats. $ LONGHI’S WAILEA The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883 Eggs Benedicts, Florentine-style with spinach or topped with crabcakes, make getting out of bed easy. Munch on an open-face chicken picatta sandwich for lunch and seafood pasta for dinner. Expansive wine list, too! Italian. B, L, H, D. $$$ LUANA LOUNGE Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kālua-pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce, and lomilomi tomato paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, H, D. $–$$ MANOLI’S PIZZA COMPANY 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499 Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppine. Italian/Pizza. L, H, D, N. $$ MATTEO’S OSTERIA Wailea Town Center, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 8798466 Matteo’s meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, ‘ahi crusted with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, H, D. $$–$$$ MISO PHAT SUSHI Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476 Sushi served on-site, to go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! Japanese. L, H, D. $$

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MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Wailea Gateway Center, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322 Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and bananacream pie. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, N. $$ NICK’S FISHMARKET Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-7224 Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. H, D, R. $$$$ NUTCHAREE’S THAI FOOD Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840 The flavors of Thailand never get boring when Nutcharee is cooking! Start with ‘ahi laab tartare salad, or the popular crispy fish mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D. $–$$ PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888 The same yummy menu that for years has hooked surfers and families in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei, too. (See North Shore listing.)  THE PINT & CORK The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 727-2038 The best mac-and-cheese with black truffles, shrimp and grits with chorizo, poke bowls and burgers. If it’s football season, you can score breakfast, too. Touchdown! American. L, H, D, N. $–$$ PITA PARADISE Wailea Gateway Center, 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 879-7177 Start with classic spinach tiropitas with caramelized onion, feta, mozzarella and tzatziki wrapped in phyllo dough; then move on to kabobs, luscious pastas and gyros. Baklava ice-cream cake, too. Mediterranean. L, H, D. $–$$$ PIZZA MADNESS 1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 270-9888 This family-style restaurant serves Cobb salad, hot and cold deli sandwiches, award-winning pizza, and pasta, too. Italian/Pizza. L, D. $-$$ THE RESTAURANT AT HOTEL WAILEA 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224 Produce from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients you’ll find in any restaurant. Add a gorgeous outdoor setting, and you have a night made in heaven. European-inspired. H, D, N. $$-$$$$ ROASTED CHILES Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357 Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, H, D. $–$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880. Steaks and homespun side dishes worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earn the chain loyal fans. This venue doesn’t stray from the flock. American. H, D, N. $$$$ SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR Kīhei Town Center, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004 See West Side listing.

SARENTO’S ON THE BEACH 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555 Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, L, H, D, R. $–$$$ SEASCAPE RESTAURANT Maui Ocean Center, 192 S. Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7068 Adjacent to an award-winning aquarium, Seascape serves harbor views with a hearty side of aloha. Mahimahi sandwiches with fresh cabbage slaw, half-pound burgers and veggie selections. Save room for Maui Mud Pie: coffee ice cream topped with fudge. American. L (daily), H, D (Sat/Sun only). $$–$$$ SPAGO Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Start with fresh poke nestled in crunchy sesame-miso cones, and move on to the exotic notes of anise, cinnamon, and pineapplecaramelized pork chop. Chef Peleg will have you singing his praises. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$–$$$ TANPOPO 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., #F, Kīhei, 446-3038 Lunch offerings include ramen, Japanese-style chicken curry, California rolls and beef burgers. Dinner goes Italian and Japanese, with pastas, flatbreads, sashimi, sushi and tempura. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $–$$$ THREE’S BAR & GRILL 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133 Three’s serves eggs Benedict six ways, like seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib. For lunch, try Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen; for dinner, truffle-yakimarinated flatiron steak. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Pacific Rim/Southwest. B, L, H, D. $$–$$$ TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT & BAR The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983 Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbeaninspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, N. $–$$ ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei See West Side listing.

CENTRAL BISTRO CASANOVA 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 873-3650 This downtown bistro serves paella for two, fresh-cut French fries, and burrata caprese, along with many fresh pasta dishes. Best pau hana (happy hour) in Kahului. Mediterranean. L, H, D. $–$$ CAFÉ O’LEI, THE DUNES AT MAUI LANI 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073 Same great fare as the South Shore location, served beside a links golf course overlooking West Maui’s mountain. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $$ FORK & SALAD Pu‘unene Shopping Center, 120 Ho‘okele St., Unit 330, Kahului, 793-3256 See South Shore listing. MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-CUPS (2877) Pastries, muffins, salads, sandwiches and wraps, and lox and bagels made to order. Fresh-roasted coffee beans set this experience above the average. “Happy Cappy Hour” from 2 to 6 p.m. Coffee Shop. B, L, H. $

MAUI FRESH STREATERY MauiFreshStreatery.com, 344-7929 Kyle Kawakami was ‘Aipono’s 2019 Chef of the Year, and in 2020 won the Gold ‘Aipono for Best Food Truck. He rocks street food with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L. $

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THE MILL HOUSE Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333 Dine at the coffee shop, restaurant, or weekend chef’s table, and discover some of Maui’s most creative culinary fare, from creamy coconut jook with Kula Farm green beans, to beef ragu gnocchi with thyme curd. Great desserts, too! Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D. $–$$$ A SAIGON CAFE 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560 Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot, the Vietnamese burrito, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D. $

James Maher Tod Clayton S. Maui Sales W. Maui Sales Certified Sommelier Certified Sommelier

SAM SATO’S 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 244-7124 This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian B, L. $ THAI MEE UP Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369 Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles. Curry, too! Thai, Food Truck. L, D. $

Charles Fredy VP, Director of Sales & Marketing Advanced Sommelier

LOOK FOR US EVERYWHERE.... Find our wines around the state at many fine resorts, restaurants and retailers.

TIGHT TACOS 349 Hanakai St., Kahului, 707-1221 Get the threetaco plate lunch [braised beef, pork and shrimp] with street corn, rice and salsa, and you can scratch great Mexican street food off your foodie bucket list. So ono! Mexican. L. $ TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 893-0026 See West Side listing. TIN ROOF MAUI 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753 Sheldon Simeon of Top Chef fame builds memorable kau kau bowls filled with his savory offerings: furikake-crusted seared salmon; Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter; and a killer spicy fried chicken sandwich. Pacific Rim. L. $ ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului Second Central Maui location: 50 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku See West Side listing.

UPCOUNTRY hawaii’s fine wine specialist since 1979 EST. 1973 @ChambersWinesHawaii @chamberswineshi

www.chamberswines.com 80

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LA PROVENCE 3158 L. Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313 Perfect croissants, fruit tarts, blueberry-mango scones, and artisan breaks baked fresh daily. On weekends, muscle past long-distance cyclists to order a Benedict or salmon-pesto crêpe. French/Bakery. Cash only. B (Wed-Fri), BR (Sat-Sun), L (Wed-Fri), D (Thur-Sun). $ O‘O FARM 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour. Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the woodburning oven, and fresh-roasted coffee in this bucolic setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L. $$$$

ULUPALAKUA RANCH STORE & GRILL 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561 Across the road from MauiWine, find great deli fare, hot-offthe-grill lamb burger with tzatziki, grass-fed venison or beef burgers. Plus homestyle chili and rice, or kālua-pork plate lunch. American. L, D. $

NORTH SHORE CHOICE HEALTH BAR 11 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia, 661-7711 See West Side listing. FLATBREAD COMPANY 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989 Big booths, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maplefennel sausage and roasted veggies. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$ MAMA’S FISH HOUSE 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488 Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesianinspired cuisine. Each detail evokes old-time island hospitality; in 2018, this Maui institution became a James Beard nominee for Best Restaurant. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, RR. $$–$$$$ NUKA 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939 Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Creative lunch and dinner specials are epic here! Save room for blacksesame or green-tea ice cream. Japanese. L, D. $$–$$$ NYLOS 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354 Ever since its opening, this fine-dining restaurant has garnered rave reviews on the coconut wireless for its menu and casual ambiance. International. L, D, R. $$$ PAIA BOWLS 43 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 214-6504 Get amped with healthy fruit-and-granola açai bowls, avocado toast and nitro coffee, plus add-ons like ashwaganda, cordyceps and brain dust in your favorite Blue Majik smoothie. You’ll be waffling the surf after your iced matcha latte. Surfer fare. B, L. $ PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030 Huge slabs of fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $ WAILUKU COFFEE CO Aloha Aina Center., 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 868-3229 Downtown goes “county” with this second location, still serving the same tasty salads, sandwiches, ice cream and espresso. Coffee Shop. B, L. $

HĀNA THE PRESERVE KITCHEN + BAR Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401 Hāna-sourced fish and produce ground an original menu. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juices and sours. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R. $–$$$

Who’s Helping Since the start of the pandemic, Maui businesses, nonprofits and volunteers have stepped up to aid the community. Here are just a few:

WESTIN: WILLIAM SKRIVAN; RITZ: ANGIE GOTANTAS BERKEY; HHHH: BRADLEY KUKRAL

Maui Brewing Company repurposed its Kupu Spirits distillery to make hand sanitizer that’s the recommended 70 percent ethyl alcohol. The company has been distributing it free to Maui‘s first responders, and to nonprofit kūpuna (elders) and child-care venues.

Taverna may be temporarily closed, but with the support of the Saunders Family Foundation and Kapalua Golf, the restaurant’s Operation Feed Our Community is dropping off free box lunches of chicken katsu, roasted pork, roasted vegetables, steamed rice and housemade chocolate chip cookies to employees at Kaiser Permanente’s Lahaina clinic, and to the community’s kūpuna and first responders.

The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, has hosted multiple food drives for their employees and ‘ohana, and for Maui residents— providing chicken, eggs, rice, bread, Surfing Goat Farm cheese, local produce, and canned goods.

Ever since Chef Kyle Kawakami rolled out his food truck some seven years ago, Maui Fresh Streatery has donated the tips it receives to local nonprofits. When the pandemic hit in March, his team grew concerned that socially isolated seniors weren’t getting nourishing food. They launched the Kokua Meals Initiative as a way for customers to “pay it forward” by sponsoring meals cooked by staff, and enlisted volunteers to help with delivery. At press time, the Streatery had cooked meals for kūpuna for eighteen weeks, with more than 2,000 meals served.

The Westin Maui Resort & Spa remains closed as of press time, but is easing the load for laid-off employees by providing them and their ‘ohana (families) dinners prepared by the food-and-beverage leadership team, and distributed by executive team members through drivethrough pickup at the porte cochere.

To date, Hungry Homeless Heroes Hawai‘i has given an estimated 2,900 meals (about 300 per day) to Maui’s unsheltered, thanks to donations from the community, and volunteers who cook, package, and deliver meals around island. The program’s mission is to enlist members of the community to help get people off the street, never turn down an unsheltered person who wants help, and provide education on how to grow food here on Maui. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Sep–Oct 2020

PAU HANA

Aloha—It’s The Law

Story by Teri Freitas Gorman Illustration by Matt Foster

In 1986, Hawai‘i lawmakers passed the “Aloha Spirit” law (Hawai‘i Revised Statutes, section 5-7.5), which recognizes the aloha spirit “as the working philosophy of Native Hawaiians . . . presented as a gift to the people of Hawai‘i.” The late Aunty Pilahi Paki wrote the law because she foresaw a twentyfirst-century world in deep strife that would look to Hawai‘i for healing. Aloha would be its remedy. According to the law, all Hawai‘i citizens and government officials must conduct themselves with aloha. It is virtually impossible to enforce the Aloha Spirit law, but longtime Maui resident Deidre Tegarden remembers a time when it worked just as Aunty Pilahi intended. It was April of 2012 and Deidre was the protocol officer for then-Hawai‘i Governor Neil Abercrombie. She stood on the Honolulu Airport tarmac awaiting the arrival of a high-ranking dignitary from the People’s Republic of China. The plane landed but the VIP failed to emerge. Several awkward minutes later, an aide appeared. She explained there would be no meeting because, much to the disappointment of Beijing, the governor had met with the Dalai Lama two months prior. Thinking quickly, Deidre responded in her very best Mandarin, “The governor of Hawai‘i always meets with every world leader because Hawai‘i is the Aloha State and our laws require us to extend aloha to everyone.” But the aide was unimpressed. There would be no meeting. Later, the aide called. She said that after researching the Aloha Spirit law, they understood the governor was legally obligated to show aloha. She asked if he was still willing to meet. Their friendly meeting resulted in an annual holiday gift exchange between Beijing and Honolulu that endured for years—ours being a box of chocolate macadamia nuts, of course. Smart, Aunty Pilahi. She knew that a humble box of mac nuts and a little aloha could instigate a move toward world peace.

MauiMagazine.net

“What’s he in for?”

“No aloha."

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