Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine March-April 2021 by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine

of sharing Maui stories

The Sustainability Issue

Waihe e Coastal Refuge COULD A PREHISTORIC CRAB SAVE OUR SHORELINE? VOL 25 NO. 2 US/CAN $4.95

GOT BREADFRUIT?

1 Ranch + 7 Students = Food Security 4 ‘Ulu-licious, Chef-Inspired Recipes

SUSTAINABLE LIVING

An Upcountry Community Leads the Way

KEEPING COMPANY

M AU I M AG A Z I N E . N E T

Honoring 4 of Maui’s Enduring Businesses

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Features

ISLAND BUSINESS TAKING CARE OF BUSINESS Sustainability isn’t just about the environment. Learn how these Maui businesses have stood the test of time. By Sarah Ruppenthal

MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA FROZEN IN TIME An ancient crustacean might hold the key to the replanting of Maui’s endemic species — and protecting the coast against climate change. By Lara McGlashan

HAWAIIAN SOUL SEEDS ACROSS THE SEAS From coconut palms to taro to bananas and more — “canoe plants” were at the very foundation of Hawaiian civilization. By Michael Stein

AT HOME A NEW (RE)GENERATION A unique community in Makawao leads the way toward a more sustainable Maui. By Lara McGlashan

Cover: Photographer Matt McDonald got an early start in order to capture this spectacular sunrise at Waihe‘e Refuge.

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N. ROBERT WAGSTAFF

Kalo (taro), illustrated left, is one of the “canoe plants” that was carried across the seas by early Hawaiian settlers. Hawaiian Soul, page 44

Kapalua Oceanfront Estate

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“For us, our client relationship doesn’t end at the sale. It’s just the beginning.”

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(808) 669-1000 | 500 Bay Drive in Kapalua | Hawaii Life is an Exclusive Affiliate of Forbes Global Properties

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Culnary students at the University of Hawai‘i Maui College unload thousands of pounds of ‘ulu and prepare them for distribution.

Departments

MAUIMAGAZINE.NET Want more MauiMag? Check out our online exclusives.

CONTRIBUTORS Here are just a few people who make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine that it is.

PUBLISHER’S NOTE By Diane Haynes Woodburn

TAG, WE’RE IT! Here’s a shout out to the MauiMag fans who get social.

TALK STORY Tales of Hawai‘i fresh off the coconut wireless. By Lara McGlashan, Shannon Wianecki & Felix Sunny D’Souza

CELEBRATING 25 YEARS We’re turning 25! Here are some of our favorite stories of issues past. By Rita Goldman

WHO’S HELPING Community is everything, and Mauians are always there with a helping hand. By Felix Sunny D’Souza

PAU HANA GOING BANANAS By Tom Stevens

Dining Stories by Becky Speere

FEATURE PROJECT ‘ULU Learn how a local ranch teamed up with culinary students in the name of Hawaiian food security.

DINING HIGHLIGHTS THE GREAT ‘ULU CHALLENGE These four ‘ulu recipes will please even the pickiest palate.

DINING GUIDE Here is a list of our favorite places to eat all over the island.

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RYAN SIPHERS

MIXOLOGY CATCH A COCKTAIL Try this recipe courtesy of Tommy Bahama’s Marlin Bar.

For your ocean views 82° AND BLAZING BLUE 1437 Front Street, Lahaina 10:00 hourS

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TODAY IS THE PERFECT DAY TO START LIVING YOUR DREAM OCEANFRONT HOMES

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1437 Front St • 3br/3ba • 1,984 sf • 0.078 acres

Masters 2203 • 2br/2.5ba • 1,512 sf ˇ Maui Eldorado G206-207 • 2br/2.5ba • 1,440 sf ˇ Maui Eldorado L102 • 1br/2ba • 960 sf

Ironwoods 31 • 2br/3ba • 1,786 sf * Kapalua Golf Villas 21P3-4 • 2br/2ba • 1,344 sf ˇ

KAPALUA RESORT HOMES 1202 Summer Road • 3br/3ba • 3,586 sf •.30 acres 101 Pulelehua Street • 4br/3.5ba • 4,238 sf •.44 acres * 504 Pacific Drive • 3br/3ba • 2,877 sf •.24 acres 94 Keoawa Street • 5br/6ba • 7,199 sf • 3.99 acres

Kahana Sunset B2B • 1br/1ba • 700 sf Kulakane 209 • 1br/1ba • 849 sf ˇ Royal Kahana 317 • 0br/1ba •431 sf * Royal Kahana 703 • 0br/1ba • 431 sf Royal Kahana 1018 • 0br/1ba • 431 sf

KAPALUA LAND

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LAUNIUPOKO HOMES Punakea Loop • 2br/2ba • 1,000 sf • 6.45 acres Punakea Loop • 5br/5ba • 5,221 sf • 8.99 acres 31 Pua Niu Way • 5br/5.5ba • 4,676 sf • 23.6 acres ˇ

KAANAPALI RESORT HOMES 407 Wekiu Pl • 3br/4ba • 3,507 sf • 0.23 acres ˇ 650 Aina Mahiai • 5br/5.5ba • 4,233 sf • 5.07 acresˇ

NAPILI/KAHANA/HONOKOWAI CONDOS

114 Pulelehua • .48 acres

Courtney M Brown

Heidi E Dollinger

REALTOR®(S) RS-56519 Vice President, ePRO CB@LuxuryRealEstateMaui.com LuxuryRealEstateMaui.com

REALTOR®(B) RB-23187 Heidi@IslandSothebysRealty.com

808.359.4245

Diana Rodbourn REALTOR®(S) RS-81738 Diana@YesToMaui.com YesToMaui.com

808.868.8759

808.250.0210 © 2020 Island Sotheby's International Realty. All rights reserved. Sotheby’s International Realty® and the Sotheby’s International Realty Logo are service marks licensed to Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates LLC and used with permission. Island Sotheby's International Realty fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Each franchise is independently owned and operated. Any services or products provided by independently owned and operated franchisees are not provided by, affiliated with or related to Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates LLC nor any of its affiliated companies.

TABLE OF CONTENTS → WEB

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Want more Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi? Go to our website for exclusive articles, recipes, contests, videos and more. Here’s what’s in store this issue. DAWN OF A NEW DAY What could be better than sunrise on Maui? Here are our five favorite places to begin your morning. MauiMagazine.net/ Maui-sunrise

SIP AND TRIP Whip up a shaker of this web-exclusive Coconut Cloud Martini recipe and be transported to the Islands. MauiMagazine.net/ coconut-cloud-martini

Hike by Moonlight Dare to go dark with this popular nighttime hike led by Hawaiian Islands Land Trust chief conservation officer Scott Fisher. MauiMagazine.net/ waihee-moonlight-hike Trail Mix Not a night owl? Try your hand — or feet — at the Waihe‘e Ridge Trail. On a good day you can see 360 degrees around — ocean on all sides! MauiMagazine.net/ hike-waihee-trail

GOT SPRING FEVAH? Listen to one of our favorite springtime stories as told by the alter ego of local actress and Mana‘o radio cofounder Kathy Collins. MauiMagazine. net/spring-fevah

TAG US

#LoveMauiMag

EMAIL US info@mauimagazine.net

LISTEN TO US Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine & SilverShark Media podcast on Spotify & iTunes

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VISIT OUR DIGITAL PLATFORMS @MauiMag @MauiMag_Eats @MauiMagazine MNKOmagazine MauiMagazine MauiMag

POKE PERFECTION In addition to sharing his delicious ‘ulu chowder creation, (p.68), Chef Tylun Pang also cooked up this web-exclusive ‘ulu poke recipe. MauiMagazine.net/ulu-poke

TOP L–R: MATT MCDONALD, BOB BANGERTER / CENTER: TOMMY BAHAMA / BOTTOM L–R: BRETT WULFSON, FAIRMONT KEA LANI

THE WONDERS OF WAIHE‘E

For those with big plans

53 Acres | $2.5M | Kula IN ESCROW

2 Acres | $4.85M | Olowalu

148 Acres | $4.8M | Kula

Surfing Goat Dairy | $6.75M

464 Acres | $7.5M | Kula

A PASSION FOR COMMUNITY Wendy & Kate are part of a seven generation family here on Maui whose roots go deep in the community. As mother & daughter alike, they share a passion for connecting people to the community of Maui and sharing their local knowledge of the island with everyone they meet. In working with Wendy & Kate, one will experience true generosity and the Spirit of Aloha.

Kate Peterson

Wendy R. Peterson

REALTOR®(S) RS-83528 Kate@islandsothebysrealty.com

REALTOR®(S) RS-61995 Wendy@IslandSothebysRealty.com

@PropertiesOfMaui

WendyRicePeterson.com

(808) 344-7927

(808) 870-4114

© 2020 Island Sotheby's International Realty. All rights reserved. Sotheby’s International Realty® and the Sotheby’s International Realty Logo are service marks licensed to Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates LLC and used with permission. Island Sotheby's International Realty fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Each franchise is independently owned and operated. Any services or products provided by independently owned and operated franchisees are not provided by, affiliated with or related to Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates LLC nor any of its affiliated companies.

MASTHEAD

There’s a saying known in the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.

Publisher Diane Haynes Woodburn Group Publisher Michael Haynes Creative Director John Giordani

Editor-in-Chief Lara McGlashan

EDITORIAL

Consulting Editor Rita Goldman Dining Editor Becky Speere Website Manager Adelle Lennox Digital Media Manager Felix Sunny D’Souza Digital Media Contributor Tori Speere MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Account Manager Brooke Tadena Advertising Sales (808) 242-8331 ADMINISTRATION

Controller Kao Kushner Subscriptions & Office Manager Nancy Wenske NEWSSTAND SALES & CIRCULATION

Subscription Inquiries Toll-Free: (844) 808-MAUI (6284) or visit Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net National MagNet, National MagNet, Disticor Magazine Distribution Services Hawai‘i MagNet | In-Room Maui Circulation CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Felix Sunny D’Souza, Rita Goldman, Lara McGlashan, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere, Michael Stein, Shannon Wianecki CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Rina Chavez, Leah Damon, Scott Fisher, Erik Frost, William Haynes, Rene Jacinto, Dean Johnson, Nina Kuna, Matthew McDonald, Lara McGlashan, Ryan Siphers, Forest & Kim Starr, Drew Sulock CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATORS

Matthew Foster, N. Robert Wagstaff E-MAIL: Info@MauiMagazine.net

Moving? Send address changes to: Haynes Publishing Group, 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793. Please note: If your magazine is undeliverable, Haynes Publishing has no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year of notification.

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living and Eating & Drinking magazines 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; (808) 242-8331. ISSN 2473-5299 (print) | ISSN 2473-5469 (online) ©2021 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly subscriptions: U.S., $24; Canada, $44; Foreign, $64. Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net.

Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi, an environmental leader whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

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For your next adventure

OLOWALU: This spectacular Oceanfront Property, steeped in history, is a jewel to behold! Owners are afforded unparalleled privacy and stunning views of Lanai and Kahoolawe, as well as a lifetime of incredible sunsets. This private, two acre oceanfront site, builder ready, comes complete with a producing citrus orchard, maturing mango trees as well as coconut trees and attractive monkeypod trees. A private, dual water system provides ample water for both domestic and agricultural uses. Access to a nearby launching site for canoes, kayaks and paddle boards ensures the owners will have endless opportunities to enjoy this unique and special oceanfront property. 2 acres offered for $4,850,000

Wendy R Peterson

Jamie Woodburn

Realtor (S) RS-61995 Wendy@IslandSothebysRealty.com

Realtor (S) RS-63712 Jamie@IslandSothebysRealty.com

808.870.4114

808.870.5671

Island Sotheby's International Realty, 3628 Baldwin Ave, Makawao, HI, 96768, Each Franchise is Independently Owned and Operated.

CONTRIBUTORS

Here are some of the folks who make our magazine nō ka ‘oi (the best).

An artist with a love for nostalgia, Matt Foster is inspired by nature’s inventions, foreign cultures and the quest for simplicity. He thinks the keys to creativity are curiosity, play and discovery, and finds inspiration cycling on Maui’s west side. He has lived here since 1988, and considers Maui his “vacation island” where he gets to live full time. See more of his clever work and varied illustration styles at ArtistProof58.com.

Sarah Ruppenthal is an awardwinning journalist and freelance writer. Her stories have appeared in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, The Honolulu StarAdvertiser, The Maui News and other regional publications. When she’s not working on a story, Ruppenthal is relaxing at home on Maui’s north shore with her husband, Matt, and their 125-pound “puppy,” Odie. Island Business (p.32)

Pau Hana (p.82)

Since 2007 professional photographer, Ryan Siphers (whom we are pleased to have worked with for more than eight years!) has enjoyed working, playing and raising his family on Maui. His job enables him to explore amazing landscapes, meet interesting people and visit gorgeous homes. Always game, Siphers jumped in on short notice to photograph oodles of ‘ulu for this issue. See his work at RyanSiphersPhotography.com. Talk Story (p.22) & Dining Feature (p.62)

Born and raised in New York City, Michael Eric Stein is a novelist, playwright, television screenwriter (Miami Vice) and journalist, and was most recently published in the Op Ed section of the New York Daily News. He is a long-time contributor to Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi and his articles have won two Hawai‘i Publishers Association Pa‘i Awards for the magazine. Hawaiian Soul (p.44)

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Felix Sunny D’Souza has worn many hats throughout his professional career (although, he surprisingly did not wear one in this photograph). D'Souza is a seasoned corporate communications strategist, nonprofit events planner, small-business consultant, digital-media manager, foodie, husband and “dog dad." He is now honored to put on his Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine contributing writer's hat and share his Maui stories.

The late N. Robert Wagstaff was born and raised in Hawai‘i, and trained at the Art Center School of Design in Pasadena, California. After a career in advertising and design that spanned more than 30 years, he pursued his dream of becoming a fine-art painter, working in the medium of gouache. Robert’s love of nature guided him toward paintings that capture the beauty of Hawai‘i’s endangered native flora and fauna.

Talk Story (p.26) & Who’s Helping (p.81)

Hawaiian Soul (p.44)

MAUI AT YOUR DOORSTEP, THE WORLD AT YOUR FINGERTIPS. HŌKŪNUI REGENERATIVE AGRICULTURAL COMMUNITY First Offering: Luxury Home & Cottage. Contemporary design, ocean views, and sustainable living. Situated on 2 acres*, surrounded by 20 acres of pasture land dedicated to conservation for grazing. High-speed fiber optics providing excellent connectivity. Expansive spaces ideal for indoor/outdoor living including Great Room and Master Suite that open on to a large, covered Lanai. Sustainable building features include LEED gold certification and solar micro-grid powered. Move-in-Ready. Offered at $4.5 Million (FS) Next Phase: Homes from $1.6 Million (FS). Currently accepting reservations.

Image Enhanced To Depict Mature Landscaping

Cynthia Warner | Realtor Broker RB-15934 (808) 283-2552 | cindy@cindywarner.com *Subject to CPR Completion.

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Each franchise is independently owned and operated.

These materials are not intended to be an offer to sell, or solicitation to buy a home. Such an offering shall only be made pursuant to the purchase agreement and no statements should be relied upon unless made in that purchase agreement. In no event shall any solicitation, offer or sale of a residence be made in, or to residents of, any state or country in which such activity would be unlawful. All prices, plans, specifications, features, amenities and other descriptions are preliminary and are subject to change without notice, as provided in your purchase agreement. All images and designs depicted herein are artist’s conceptual renderings, which are based upon preliminary development plans, and are subject to change without notice in the manner provided in the offering documents. All such materials are not to scale and are shown solely for illustrative purposes.

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

In this issue, and for the remainder of this year, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi is celebrating its 25th anniversary. You’ll see a lot of nostalgia in these pages, and this Publisher’s Note from 2007 is no exception. Fourteen years have passed and we’ve all experienced and survived a lot. Yet I still believe in the truth and strength of the Dalai Lama’s message: Pursue happiness.

Rita, my senior editor, is obsessing over her form. “It’s an eighth of a mile,” I assure her. “It will be over in three minutes. Form won’t matter; think content.” Staff and friends of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi have gathered on the beach for an outrigger canoe race, an amateur regatta to benefit local canoe clubs. Aside from Sara Smith, our associate publisher, who is to blame for getting us into this, and Jason Moore, staff photographer, none of us is a paddler. But that’s not the issue. The issue is that Rita and I are a full generation older than the rest the staff. We try to keep up — we own free weights, we do squats and we eat well (sort of). We also compare wrinkles, bulges, age spots and other reminders of our impending 60s, while our younger colleagues roll their eyes in boredom. Lately, our complaints have given way to serious discussions around health. “What’s healthy?” Rita queries. “How far do we go to reclaim our youth?” Good questions. Is “healthy” a matter of lifestyle or a spiritual pursuit? When the Dalai Lama spoke here in March, 2007, 10,000 Mauians heard him say: “Pursue happiness.” That sounds healthy. “Pretend there is a beach ball between you and the paddle,” says Jason, bringing me back to the present moment and his lesson on paddling form. “Keep your arms in a V and pull back — like this, darlin’,” he adds in his soft Southern drawl, and Rita mimics Jason’s movements with a scholar’s intensity; I just like being called “darlin’.” Our turn to compete is just minutes away — but we need a steersman. Someone spots Olympic paddler Lauren Spalding (who, by the way, went to kindergarten with my son). “Get Lauren!” Ashley implores. I run to the rescue, charging down the Triumphant! Winners of the 2007 Amateur Regatta. beach in full view of everyone in just a bikini and a pair of clunky From left: Tootsie Namuo-Peterson, circulation and administration; Jamie Woodburn, supporter; Diane Chacos. “Lauren! We need you!” I shout. Fortunately, Lauren Haynes Woodburn, publisher; Cecilia Fernandez, art recognizes crisis mode when she sees it, and moments later is at director/designer; Ashley Stepanek, managing editor the canoe, helping us push off. Then everyone is in — except Rita and me. “Get in now!” Ceci shouts. I’m up to my neck in salt water, but I manage to heave myself up and slither over the side of the canoe, Ashley grabbing the back of my suit bottom to help haul me in. It’s hardly graceful, but it’s better than Rita’s technique, which she refers to as “ass over teakettle.” But then again, I promised not to mention form. “Dig!” Tootsie yells. We groan and power it out, stroke after stroke until it seems our bodies can do no more. “Deadline!” shouts Lauren, and we dig even harder, grunting our determination to reach the finish line first. And we do! Ahhh, joy, nirvana, food! As our motley, ecstatic crew cheers with exhaustion and joy, I’m reminded again of the Dalai Lama’s sage advice: Pursue happiness. Life is, after all, like a canoe regatta: It’s over very fast, and what really matters isn’t form — it’s content. Pass the cookies, please. To your happiness, no matter what form it comes in. A hui hou,

Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

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TOP: MIEKO HORIKOSHI / BOTTOM: JASON MOORE

Think Content!

wa i l e a p o i nt 8 0 2 / 8 0 4 | M au i

4 BEDROOMS | 6 BATHROOMS | LIVING 4,821 SF | Lanai living 1,472 SF Recently renovated, this rare double-condo, ocean-view residence has artisan-quality stone, custom tile & warm hardwoods throughout. Each unique room offers views & vistas that delight. Wailea Point is bordered by the Four Seasons to the right and the Fairmont Kea Lani to the left. Just steps away are The Shops at Wailea and fabulous dining.

RIETTE G. JENKINS MANAGING DIRECTOR OF GLOBAL LUXURY Realtor-Broker, RB-17543 808.870.4073 | riette@waileahawaii.com waileahawaii.com

TAG, WE’RE IT

Our readers are as obsessed with Maui as we are. We see you out there, exploring the island and snapping those Insta-worthy shots. Follow us on Instagram @MauiMag, tag #LoveMauiMag and we’ll share some of our favorite posts in each issue.

@theworldofwhales.official “Whale hello there, Maui!” by Rob Owen

@travismillerimages ‘I‘iwi bird at 4,000 feet

@taymjacks Waterfront in Old Lahaina

@jenniferashleyreedphoto / @kimyapmaui Elevate your fashion in Maui. @rjwandering Surreal shot atop Haleakalā! →

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SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS

The best choice for this year’s staycation is the historic Pioneer Inn on Lahaina Harbor. Plenty of Places to Shop with over 14 Retailers ∏ Restaurants Island Treasures

Maui Memories

Papa’aina Restaurant

Best Western Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina (808) 661-3636 www.pioneerinnmaui.com

TALK STORY F re

sh of

f t h e c o c o n u t w i re

le s s

We Sing the Dozer Electric There’s a new hybrid bulldozer hard at work on Maui. Story by Lara McGlashan | Photo by Ryan Siphers Goodfellow Brothers, one of Maui’s long-standing general contracting businesses, is the proud owner of a new hybrid bulldozer from Caterpillar. “The black-and-gray D6 XE we have is the commemorative edition celebrating Caterpillar’s having built 175,000 dozers,” says Shepherd Nelson, equipment superintendent for Goodfellow Brothers. The D6 XE is the world’s first electric-drive dozer. “Instead of powering a torque converter, the [diesel] engine drives a generator which turns the mechanical engine power into electricity,” says Shepherd. “This electric generator runs the tracks, the blade and the hydraulics.” The dozer has no gears to shift and provides maximum torque at all speeds, delivering constant power to the ground. It is estimated to move 10 percent more material per hour for increased productivity, and has 35 percent better fuel efficiency than a traditional combustion engine. “The generator runs at one consistent,

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low RPM, so it is really efficient,” says Shepherd. “And electric motors achieve 100 percent of the torque and power at zero RPM, whereas a regular combustion engine needs to rev up to get into its power band. This means that the second you turn over an electric motor, it has full power.” It’s also more eco-friendly than a traditional dozer. “When a traditional dozer is pushing dirt at full load you can see black smoke coming out of the exhaust,” says Shepherd. “The D6 XE is super quiet, with no smoke and no change in sound no matter what you’re doing.” The machine is a little more expensive, but Shepherd says they would still love to add more to their fleet. “Because it’s [35 percent] more fuel-efficient, over the lifetime of the machine it pays [for itself],” he says. Want to see a D6 XE in action? One is hard at work right now, helping build Kīhei’s new high school along Pi‘ilani Highway.

Come visit us at

Old Lahaina Center Shop & Dine Foodland

Nagasako General Store Sale Pepe

Beyond Beauty Salon & Spa

West Maui Sports & Fishing Supply L&L Hawaiian Barbecue Nagasako Okazu-Ya Deli

Edward Jones Thai Chef

Noodle Bar

Maui Clothing Company

Lahaina Sports Bar & Cafe

845 Wainee Street, Lahaina, HI 96761 OldLahainaCenter.com

TALK STORY → in season by Shannon Wianecki

Butterfly hunting is back in vogue. But instead of netting the jeweled fliers, the goal is to capture data about one special species: Vanessa tameamea, the Kamehameha butterfly. Entomologists fear this endemic butterfly, our official state insect, may be disappearing from forests. Fortunately, the Pulelehua (Butterfly) Project has been logging the sightings of both expert and novice lepidopterists (butterfly enthusiasts) into a database to help formulate a more complete picture of the species’ habits. Each stage of the Kamehameha’s metamorphosis is spectacular. When viewed under magnification, the butterfly’s eggs resemble mystical, distant planets. Females lay these miniscule, transparent spheres on native māmaki (Pipturus albidus) leaves, which will later serve to feed and shelter the growing caterpillars. After hatching, the fuzzy, resourceful larvae hide from predators in makeshift tents of their own design: They slice a crescent into a leaf, fold the flap over themselves and fasten it down with silk. When the itch to transform overtakes them, they create a chrysalis and hang from a twig. In about two weeks, they emerge as

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brilliant orange aerial acrobats, speckled with white and black. Kamehameha butterflies are not officially endangered, but they’re also not easy to find. Look for mature butterflies, eggs, caterpillars and cocoons when hiking in native Hawaiian forests. With their wings closed, they look like brown leaves, and only when they launch from their perch to fly do you see their magnificent orange. These clandestine fliers prefer rainforests replete with māmaki and nectar-filled flowers. And, according to Francis Williams, who studied and reared V. tameamea in the 1920s, they have “a particular fondness for resting on the trunk and limbs of rugged old koa trees.” Why koa trees? Sam Gon III, senior scientist and cultural advisor for The Nature Conservancy of Hawai‘i, believes it’s the sap that lures them in. When fermented, koa sap produces an intoxicating, bubbly ooze, and the butterflies who partake of it become tipsy and chase one another around the treetops. To learn more about the Pulelehua Butterfly Project, visit cms.ctahr.hawaii.edu/pulelehua.

From top to bottom: An adult Kamehameha butterfly presents a majestic display. Caterpillars are between 2 and 3 inches long (5 to 6 centimeters) before pupating. Kamehameha butterfly eggs are about the size of a pinhead — the tiniest but most rewarding phase to find. This story originally appeared in our March-April 2014 issue.

WILLIAM HAINES/UNIVERSITY OF HAWAI‘I–CTAHR

On the Wing

TALK STORY→ day

in the life

The Joy of Sustainability Joy Galatro’s days are filled with stories of preservation and giving back. By Felix Sunny D’Souza

TITLE Marketing Director, Pacific Biodiesel STORY = SUSTAINABILITY Joy Galatro is the quintessential storyteller. She began working in branding and public relations early on in her career and has been able to combine those skills with her passion for art and writing as the current marketing director for Pacific Biodiesel. “I think storytelling is critical to sustainability,” says Galatro. “When people emotionally connect with a company, a product or a cause, they want to tell others about [your brand]. That word of mouth helps propel everything forward and sustains momentum.” PUMP AND CIRCUMSTANCE Growing up on Maui, Galatro spent her time immersed

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in nature and developed a lifelong passion for environmentalism, a passion she is now able to support through her career. “Pacific Biodiesel is a pioneer in renewable energy, and they created the first retail biodiesel pump in America right here on Maui,” she says. “It’s so rewarding to be part of a company that is recycling, farming sustainably and making natural products for the local community.” Last year in particular highlighted the need to support local businesses and communities, especially in terms of food security. “It was promising to see programs put into place to help support local farmers and food producers, and … to have chefs use our culinary oils in these efforts to provide locally sourced meals for the community,” Galatro says. “Bob King, [co-owner of Pacific

Biodiesel] always says that sustainability is local. Along those lines, Native Hawaiians understand that if nature does not survive, we do not survive.” THE JOY OF GIVING BACK In her spare time, Galatro volunteers with Mana‘o Radio, Maui’s only commercial-free, independent radio station. She loves music and was blown away by their eclectic selection. “When I learned that the station was run 100 percent by volunteers, I immediately offered to interview their deejays and share their stories,” she says. Galatro is also proud to fuel her car with her company’s biodiesel, a biodegradable, non-toxic fuel manufactured on Maui. “Working with sustainability rock stars Bob and Kelly King is a dream,” she says.

PHOTO COURTESY OF PACIFIC BIODIESEL

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2021

CELEBRATING 25 YEARS OF MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI

Encore! 20012005 This year, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine celebrates a quarter-century of bringing you Maui stories. Throughout 2021, we’ll pull some of our all-time favorites from the archives, printing a sampler in these pages and the complete stories online at MauiMagazine .net/25years. We’ve saved space in the November/ December issue to highlight some of your favorites. Go to our website and spend some time reading, then send your candidates to ideas@mauimagazine.net. Here’s to another 25 years. Mahalo for your enduring support. Story by Rita Goldman

2001 FALL Ancient Fishponds, Modern Battles

Writer Michael Stein traveled to Moloka‘i for this peek into the island’s distant past, and reported on the efforts of contemporary Hawaiians to bring back one of their ancestors’ most sophisticated technologies. His guide, Hawaiian activist Walter Ritte, helped lead the fight to restore the fishponds that once scalloped Moloka‘i’s coast. Centuries ago, islanders hauled huge rocks to the shore to build walls that enclosed the shallows. Sluices let small fry inside to feed on seaweed … until the tasty fish grew too big to escape. Wresting permits from government agencies was nearly as arduous as reconstructing the walls, but the project yielded far-reaching results. Stein described Ritte’s pride in “taking young drug abusers out of that life and putting them to work rebuilding the ponds and learning about their culture. [Ritte] makes sure [they] never forget the cultural significance of the fishponds. ‘We do it from the heart. We know we’re on the right track, the same track our ancestors laid down.’”

2002 FALL The Secret World of Sand

Gary Greenberg was 12 years old when he got his first microscope; he’s been fascinated ever since by the hidden beauty of what looks ordinary to the naked eye. A scientist and photographer, he developed a 3D microscope and has photographed lunar sand for NASA. Collecting is the first step in his “panoramic microphotography,” and he has gathered sand from around the world. (He thinks Maui’s is among the best.) “It can take a week to examine little more than a thimbleful of sand,” he says. “It’s like treasure-hunting for jewels.” Under the microscope, each grain is beautiful, but only one in 500 is photo-worthy. Using an acupuncture needle, he extracts each chosen grain and places it with others in a pleasing composition. “It requires a steady hand and a good deal of patience,” he says. “Dust, a breath of wind and unexpected static forces are the enemies.” See Greenberg’s photography and watch his 2012 TEDxMaui talk at SandGrains.com.

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2003 SUMMER

The Harmony of the Islands In 1832, King Kamehameha III hired Mexican and Spanish cowboys to teach Hawaiians how to handle another Euro-American import: cattle. One surprising result, wrote Dennis Lewison, was kī hō‘alu, the Hawaiian slack-key guitar. The term translates as “loosen the key,” referring, Lewison noted, “to the way the strings are ‘slacked’ to produce many different tunings … Hawaiian players discovered the looser tension and lower pitches ... gave a warmer, more sustained sound.” This enabled musicians to create intricate melodies, staccato harmonics and other techniques that once led Chet Atkins to tell slack-key guitarist Cyril Pahinui, “You sounded like three guys playing.” Thanks to a new generation of slack-key masters like Ikaika Brown and Makana, the harmony of the Islands plays on.

2004 WINTER The Yin Yang Dive

“Defiantly tucked into a coral crevasse, the octopus is clearly not anxious to shake hands with me or anyone else. But my dive leader is determined to do a meet-and-greet come hell or deep water.” So begins Bill Harby’s submerged exploration of Pu‘u Keka‘a. Known colloquially as “Black Rock,” the promontory sits oceanside of the Sheraton Maui, punctuating Kā‘anapali’s three-mile beach. It’s also, he wrote, “a high-rise condo for … rainbow-dabbed wrasses, Moorish idols … and my favorite, the Picasso triggerfish, more commonly known by its Hawaiian name humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a.” The craggy black wall stands in sharp contrast to the smooth white sand that surrounds it — “a sublime study in yin yang,” Harby wrote.

2005 WINTER

A Dwelling for Dreamers

“A happy marriage of genius and indulgence” is how writer Rita Goldman described the eccentric home next to Mama’s Fish House in Pā‘ia, built for Mama’s owners, Floyd and Doris Christenson. The couple gave free rein to Bill Kohl, the architect who also designed the beloved North Shore restaurant. “We told Bill to take some chances, to do a little whimsy,” Floyd recalled. And boy did he ever! Kohl transformed fir trees salvaged from a 1920s shipwreck into roof beams, and had their exterior sections carved to resemble canoes. Boiler-inspection portholes from Lahaina’s now-departed Pioneer Mill became windows in the master bath. The staircase railing loops with a Dr. Seussian swirl, and a dumbwaiter’s hands and arms were cast from Doris’s own.

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It was too hard to choose just a few of our favorites from the many stories we’ve shared over the years. Here are some of our runners-up for you to enjoy. Read them in full at MauiMagazine.net/25years.

After Pearl: Maui’s Harbored Memories (Summer 2001)

Coach Sakamoto, Olympic Dreamer (Fall 2002)

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ISLAND BUSINESS

Taking Care Sustainability doesn’t just apply to the environment. See how these four local businesses have managed to stand the test of time. Story by Sarah Ruppenthal

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Inset: Clara and Lester Hamai. Above: The grand opening of Hamai Appliance at its first location along Hāna Highway. Below: In 1977, the store moved to a larger building on Wakea Avenue in Kahului, where it remains today.

COURTESY OF HAMAI APPLIANCE

HAMAI APPLIANCE Est. 1969 After a decades-long career as an appliance salesman for Alexander & Baldwin Commercial in Kahului, 50-year-old Lester Hamai decided to open his own store. It was a bold move that raised quite a few eyebrows — leaving a steady job to start a business from scratch at any age is inherently risky, but at 50? “People called him crazy, but he was ready to chase the American dream,” says his son, Clyde. Hamai and his wife, Clara, opened Hamai Appliance in 1969, and in the early days, family members comprised the majority of the employees. Everyone pitched in to load delivery trucks, stock shelves and even wrap gifts for customers during the holidays. Grandson Bryant Hamai recalls spending countless hours roaming the store as a child, marveling at the rows of shiny new machines, and playfully shadowing his aunties and uncles as they worked in the warehouse. For the first 25 years, the store sold and serviced just two brands — Panasonic and General Electric — the brands with which Hamai had a familiarity and a rapport. Regardless of the limited selection, Hamai Appliance led the way as technology evolved. They were one of the first stores on Maui to sell “newfangled gadgets” such as fax machines, four-channel stereos, VCRs and camcorders, and in the ’70s, Hamai Appliance hosted cooking classes to teach customers how to use the latest, greatest technology — the microwave oven. Today, the store is an appliance-lover’s dream, with just

of Business

From left: Keli‘i Wunder, Garret Hamai, Clyde Hamai and Bryant Hamai are now at the helm of the family-run business.

“When your name is on the door, it’s important to be a good member of the community,” says Clyde Hamai. about every kitchen and laundry machine imaginable, outdoor grills, vacuum cleaners and air conditioners. In 2010, the Hamais even added mattresses to their roster, renovating a section of the store to become MattressLand. They have long left behind their two-brand beginnings and now service and sell products from Sub-Zero, Wolf, Monogram, Fisher & Paykel, Bosch, Thermador and Maytag. Lester Hamai passed away in 1986, but Hamai Appliance continues to be a thriving family endeavor. His son, Clyde, is the current CEO, and his grandsons, Bryant, Garret and Keli‘i, serve as president and vice presidents, respectively. The business is still a leader, too, especially as it relates to community: For more than 40 years, Hamai Appliance sponsored the Lester Hamai Memorial Women’s Golf Tournament, one of the first women’s-only golf tournaments on Maui, and raised more than $100,000 for

local nonprofits; the Hamais regularly pitch in to pack meals for thousands of food-insecure children and support a number of youth organizations, including the Boy Scouts of America; and in 2020, Hamai Appliance teamed up with a local food-truck business to serve hundreds of lunches to healthcare workers on the front lines of the COVID-19 crisis. Despite all the changes in inventory, trends and product, one thing has remained constant for Hamai Appliance: earning and keeping their customers’ trust. “Trust is created and maintained when you can show that you stand behind the product that you sell,” Clyde Hamai explains. “Trust is further created when you follow through with what you promise, and I always believe that it’s better to underpromise and overdeliver.” HamaiAppliance.com | 332 East Wakea Avenue, Kahului | 808.877.6305 | FB @Hamai-Appliance Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

OLD LAHAINA CENTER Est. 1964 Mention “Nagasako Supermarket” to anyone who lived in West Maui during the ’60s and they’re bound to share a fond memory or two. A beloved Lahaina institution for 30-plus years, the mom-and-pop grocery store is indelibly etched in local history. When Old Lahaina Center was built in 1964 in historic Lahaina town, Nagasako Supermarket was one of the first tenants, bringing with it plenty of customers and an upstanding reputation. Old Lahaina Center itself sits on 15 acres of land and houses more than 35 stores, including specialty shops, banks, yoga classes, marine supplies, eateries and even a post office. Today you can grab a tee shirt from Maui Clothing, stock up on fishing supplies at West Maui Sports or indulge in some of the best pizza on the island (according to our very own dining editor, Becky Speere) at Sale Pepe. And of course, pay a visit to Nagasako General Store, the modern iteration of the original and esteemed supermarket. OldLahainaCenter.com | IG @oldlahainacenter | FB @Old-Lahaina-Center

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Top: Nagasako Supermarket in 1965. Below L–R: Old Lahaina Center as seen today from Front Street; the Nagasako family in their candy store in 1921. Mitsuzo Nagasako was an apprentice candy and cracker maker from Japan who came to the Islands to work in the sugar cane fields. In 1952 the candy store became a supermarket, and in 1965 they relocated to Old Lahaina Center.

COURTESY OF OLD LAHAINA CENTER

ISLAND BUSINESS

TOP: COURTESY OF TRILOGY EXCURSIONS / MIDDLE (2): COURTESY OF OLD LĀHAINĀ LŪ‘AU / BOTTOM: MIEKO HORIKOSHI

The Coon family aboard the Trilogy in 1977. Standing: Capt. Eldon Coon, Capt. Randy Coon, Jeff Landereth, Capt. James Coon. Seated: Jeanette “Mom” Coon holding Jennifer Landereth, and Pattie Coon-Speer holding Jesse Landereth.

TRILOGY EXCURSIONS Est. 1973 In 1969, a shipwreck forced “The Sailing Coon Family” to reassess their business options. Though the Coons had operated a successful charter-boat business in Alaska for years, they decided to start fresh in Seattle. They built a brand-new 50-foot trimaran which they christened Trilogy, and eventually ended up on Maui. In 1973, they debuted Trilogy Excursions. Today, the family-run company has a fleet of six luxury catamarans which are sometimes still captained by one of the Coons. Guests can

book a snorkeling tour, a whale watch, or a sunset cruise, and can voyage to destinations like Lāna‘i, Molokini Crater and Honolua Bay. There’s also an underwater reef-cleanup tour for those who want to give back, and a captain’s sunset dinner sail that includes a chef-prepared four-course gourmet meal. And insider secret: If you happen to set sail during daylight hours, be sure to try one of Mom Coon’s cinnamon rolls — they are legendary. SailTrilogy.com | 808.661.4743 | IG @sailtrilogy | FB @Sail.Trilogy

OLD LĀHAINĀ LŪ‘AU Est. 1986 For many visitors, no trip to Maui would be complete without a visit to the Old Lāhainā Lū‘au. The award-winning production is the brainchild of four friends — Michael Moore, Robert Aguiar, Kevin Butler and Tim Moore — who teamed up 35 years ago to create the event. It began as a small operation in a shopping complex on the edge of Lahaina Town, but today occupies an all-outdoor oceanfront venue which is nearly four times the size of its original site. The nightly experience includes a traditional Hawaiian feast and a visually stunning production that tells the story of Hawai‘i and its people through music and hula. The lū‘au has racked up plenty of accolades, and has earned the Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Lū‘au every year since 2003! What’s more, the founders and employees have not lost sight of their original core values: ho‘okipa (hospitality), po‘okela (excellence) and aloha (love). OldLahainaLuau.com | 808.667.1998 IG/FB @oldlahainaluau Above: Old Lāhainā Lū‘au is known for its quality entertainment and excellent food. Below: Among their many ‘Aipono Restaurant Award wins, the 2017 Icon Award was especially poignant for owners Michael Moore, Robert Aguiar and Tim Moore (left to right). Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

F R O Z E N

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MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA

I N

T I M E

An ancient crustacean could hold the key to restoring the endemic plant species in Waihe‘e Refuge — and protecting Maui against climate change.

OPPOSITE PAGE: LARA McGLASHAN / THIS PAGE: SCOTT FISHER

Story by Lara McGlashan

Opposite page: Crab fossils speckle the slopes of the Waihe‘e sand dunes. This page: A grain of pollen from a loulu fan palm as seen through a microscope at the University of Leicester. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA

The Waihe‘e Coastal Dunes and Wetlands Refuge consists of 277 acres of protected wetlands, dunes, marine shoreline, reef systems and riparian habitat. It was once inhabited by two thriving ancient villages, Kapoho and Kapokea, and the acreage features an extensive inland fishpond as well as several heiau (sacred sites). The Hawaiian Islands Land Trust is actively restoring critical native habitat while preserving the area’s rich archaeological and cultural history.

If you were to stand on the north

RENE JACINTO

Left: Hawaiian Islands Land Trust Volunteers help collect specimens for study. Below: Scott Fisher (left), HILT chief conservation officer, discusses the hidden treasures found inside a fossilized crab claw.

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shore of Maui 20,000 years ago where the Waihe‘e Refuge is today, the terrain and wildlife would have appeared decidedly different. Countless species of birds would have wheeled through the skies in search of an unlucky fish for lunch. The ocean would have been much lower, and in fact, according to Scott Fisher, Ph.D., chief conservation officer for the Hawaiian Islands Land Trust, you would have been able to trek on foot from Hāna all the way to the west end of Moloka‘i. Avian nests would have dappled the sand dunes marking the foothills of the West Maui mountain, and in the wetlands below, marsh grasses and palm trees would have rubbed foliage in close company. And beneath it all would have scuttled hundreds of land crabs, foraging, cleaning and devouring everything that came their way — small but integral cogs in the eco-maintenance of the ancient landscape. Natural events such as the rising sea, tsunamis, erosion and hurricanes changed the coastline of the Hawaiian Islands over the millennia, but the most impactful natural “disaster” was the arrival of

aggressive, invasive species: ‘Iole (Pacific rats), mongooses, cats and centipedes hitched a ride aboard seacraft from all over the world, and the practice of farming brought ungulates such as goats, sheep and pigs to the Islands, who made quick work of plenty of now-defunct plant species. Once these creatures set paw, claw and craw upon land, les jeux sont faits. It is irrefutably challenging to work backward and determine what flora and fauna used to exist in Waihe‘e — where it set up camp and why, who ate what or whom — and though evidence has been gleaned through environmental records and core sampling, it is largely accented by speculation. However, it is important to determine what used to exist on the shoreline, not only for environmental restoration but also for future land resilience. Because Maui, while not particularly susceptible to hurricanes, is a frequent victim of tsunamis, and in fact, it was one such disastrous event in March 2011 Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

A coastal “bioshield” of endemic species

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MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA

Opposite page, top: Loulu and other endemic palms sway in the breeze along the edge of the wetlands. Just beyond, the sand dunes rise gently from the earth; bottom: The remains of an ancient temple, one of many in the Refuge. This page: Large dactyls (claws) of Geograpsus severnsi shown in relation to common objects.

OPPOSITE PAGE: RENE JACINTO / ABOVE: SCOTT FISHER

could help protect against climate change. that provided the impetus for the latest HILT project: creating a natural “bioshield” of endemic plant species along the coastline to protect the wetlands against disaster and climate change. “That tsunami came from Japan and confirmed for us that native vegetation along the coast is better at holding back wave energy and preventing large-scale erosion,” says Fisher. Scientists commonly use pollen analysis to paint a detailed picture of the prehuman ecology of an area, but Waihe‘e is not an ideal environment for this practice. “Pollen can survive for tens of thousands of years or longer when covered by sediment; however, drying destroys pollen grains, and the [ancient] wetlands regularly dried out during the hot season,” says Fisher. In addition, most pollen flew inland rather than seaward, and what little did stick around sifted down into the sand (then also dried up) or blew away due to the loose and shifting nature of a beach environment. One day Fisher was in the lab looking through some specimens he had collected from the Waihe‘e dunes: the remains of an extinct species of land crab (Geograpsus severnsi). These fossils speckle the hillside, with full and partial dactyls (claws) on full display. “A recent dating from the Waihe‘e Refuge marked intact specimens at 1,800 years old that look like they were buried last month,” says Fisher. As he turned these claws over and over in his hands, the proverbial light bulb went on. With a toothpick, Fisher carefully scraped the dirt out from inside the claws and into a baggie and voilà, ancient pollen once again bloomed beneath the lens of a microscope. “When crabs die, the interior of their shells quickly fills with sediment,” Fisher explains. “The thickest and most durable part of their exoskeleton, the claws, preserve the best, and the sediment inside these carbon containers was protected enough to get some samples. They are like little time capsules of information.”

According to claw-crafted data, the dominant plant species of years gone by was loulu, or Pritcharia palm, and Fisher estimates that this species all but covered the 27 acres of what was once the Kapoho wetlands of Waihe‘e. “It would have felt like walking through a dense coastal forest of loulu fan palms right up to the edge of the wetlands, where it would have abruptly transitioned into a sedge-covered series of spring-fed bogs,” Fisher says. “As for trees, the pollen suggests that the dunes were dominated by ‘ohe makai and kauila (coastal hardwoods) at the lowest part, ‘āweoweo (a shrub similar to quinoa) in the middle regions, and mostly grasses on top.” Today, however, there is a paucity of trees altogether, with only a few old-growth specimens to speak of. So what happened, then, to that lush, palm-populated everglade? Fisher believes G. servensi might also hold the key to that mystery. As determined by its carapace, Geograpsus severnsi was about the size of a human palm and was a ravenous omnivore, consuming everything from dead birds to leaf litter to the random treat washed ashore in a storm. “Crabs are ecosystem engineers,” says Fisher. “Their consumption of detritus, including low-hanging leaves and branches, allowed birds to move about more freely through the foliage, and in turn, the bird droppings added nutrients to an otherwise nutritionally depauperate landscape. Seabirds in particular have an aversion to extremely dense vegetation, and the symbiotic relationship between G. severnsi and the seabirds was crucial: The land crabs consumed the vegetation that obstructed the seabirds’ nesting habitat, while the seabirds fertilized the soil that allowed for new plant growth.” G. severnsi seems to have gone extinct soon after the arrival of invasive species; these creatures, and to an extent the early settlers, likely found the crabs tasty. Once the crabs disappeared, the vegetation Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

underneath the palms became overgrown. The birds, disenchanted with this tangle, took off for friendlier habitat, and with no droppings to replenish it, the soil once again became nutrient-poor. And in combination with the huge population of introduced rats gnawing them to bits, plants became weak and died. So when the next storm raged through, they uprooted easily and the ocean washed the landscape clean. “I believe that the loss of this crab may have had a catastrophic, cascading impact on the ecosystem,” says Fisher. “It’s like a tapestry: You pull one thread and it rips all the way across. You never know which species will cause that one ripple that is so damning for an entire ecosystem.” In recent years, Fisher and his team have used the pollen samples from the claws to piece together the landscape of the past, and though they can’t resurrect long-gone species, they can cultivate and repopulate some of those endemic plants that were at one time abundant. “We started in the wetlands by restoring vegetation, then broadened out and are beginning to create a bioshield — a forest of native species,” says Fisher. “In planting the most resilient species, we are protecting the wetlands from waves and intense erosion from storms.”

Nowadays, plenty of shrubs and the occasional loulu dot the wetlands, as well as some new “test” plantings along the shoreline which Fisher et al. have been trying to root. A lot of their work is trial and error, because while the claw caches revealed the presence of several species, those only represent a fraction of what was likely in existence thousands of years ago. “It’s like trying to make a cake with some of the ingredients and a few fragments of the recipe,” says Fisher. Regardless, they are seeing positive results: Five endangered species have returned to the area, including ae‘o (Hawaiian stilt) and the ‘alae ke‘oke‘o (Hawaiian coot). Other frequent visitors include monk seals and nesting green sea turtles. “The Northern pintail, while not endangered, was abundant here in the 1920s and ’30s,” says Fisher. “It had not been seen for more than 70 years, but now we have large visiting flocks.” How effective will this present-day bioshield prove against the power of the ocean? Only time and plate tectonics will tell. “But by looking to the past we are certainly better prepared to face the future,” says Fisher. For more about Waihe‘e and the Hawaiian lslands Land Trust, go to hilt.org | IG/FB @HiLandTrust.

“By looking to the past we are certainly better prepared to face the future.” 42

MauiMagazine.net

MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA

RENE JACINTO / INSET: FOREST & KIM STARR

The replanting of native species has led to the return of several seabirds, including (left to right) ‘alae ke‘oke‘o (Hawaiian coot), ae‘o (Hawaiian stilt) and the Northern pintail.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

HAWAIIAN SOUL The coconut palm, though emblematic of Hawai‘i, didn’t originate here. Like the taro plant (whose roots and leaves appear at right), it arrived by canoe with the Polynesian explorers who settled these Islands more than a millennium ago.

Seeds 44

MauiMagazine.net

From coconut palms to taro to bananas and more — “canoe plants” were the very foundation of Hawaiian civilization.

across the American pioneers crossing the plains with their meager provisions would have been amazed to learn that Polynesian seafarers in double-hulled canoes had been crossing the Pacific for more than 1,000 years, carrying with them everything they might need — not just for the 3,000-mile journey, but also to subsist for the rest of their lives in the most remote islands on Earth. In the holds of the canoes that first touched Maui’s shores were 20 to 30 “canoe plants” — the seeds, stalks, tubers, roots and cuttings of the flora the original Hawaiians would rely on for nourishment, handicrafts and medicine, plants that constituted the very foundation of both their physical and spiritual lives. Ancient Hawaiians wrapped this precious cargo first in layers of moistened moss, then in dry ti leaf, and finally in either kapa (barkcloth) or skin from the banana plant. They then hung these parcels in lau hala (pandanus leaf) casings from the roof of the canoe’s hut, or stowed them in ipu, a gourd which itself was a canoe crop. Thusly protected, the transplants survived their precarious journey across open, storm-tossed seas. Among the plants they transported were

Seas Story by Michael Stein

Paintings by N. Robert Wagstaff Photography by Nina Kuna

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

staples, such as kalo (taro), ‘uala (sweet potato) and ‘ulu (breadfruit), as well as uhi (yam), ‘ape (elephant’s ear) — which survived when other food plants were scarce — and the most vital fresh fruits: niu (coconut) and mai‘a (banana). In choosing the plants that would take up precious space in the canoes, necessity was the primary criterion, but versatility was also important. For example, Hawaiians employed every part of the coconut tree. Although not central to the Hawaiian diet, a coconut contains water, and its flesh or “meat” can be eaten at every stage of development. Even at its most mature it can be grated and squeezed into coconut crème, mixed with pia (arrowroot) and kō (sugarcane) and baked into a

MauiMagazine.net

delightful pudding called haupia. Hawaiians used the fronds of the coconut palm for housing, baskets, furniture and fans, and cut the inner shell in half to make a drinking cup for ‘awa (kava) and medicine. Banana plants were also useful on several levels, and their leaves served as roof thatching and to cover imu (pit ovens) for containing the heat. The canoe plants were also of great use medicinally. ‘Ōlena (turmeric) was a popular spice for cooking, but the rhizomes (underground stems) of this type of ginger could also be mashed and strained through cloth to create an astringent that was good for earaches and sinus problems. Another type of ginger, ‘awapuhi, served as both a shampoo

and a tea, and when pulverized with salt made a good topical salve for headaches. Mixing the ashes of burnt ‘awapuhi leaves with the ashes of ‘ohe (Hawaiian bamboo) and the juice of the kukui (candlenut) tree created a poultice for cuts and sores. The noni shrub was another herbal overachiever. Its crushed or charred leaves were a remedy for bruises, and the bark and juice from its roots were valuable dermatologic remedies. Hawaiians used mashed noni fruit as a poultice for broken bones and concussions, and applied the immature fruit directly to the skin to help shrink boils. They used the juice of the noni fruit to cure a wide variety of issues, including menstrual cramps, high

NINA KUNA

Clockwise from top left: Ipu hang from a bamboo trellis; hollowed and corked, the gourds make waterproof containers. From the wood of kamani, Hawaiians carved vessels for food. Long before sugar plantations dominated the Islands, Hawaiians chewed the stalks of the plant, which they called kō, as a sweet treat. From the bark of the wauke tree, Hawaiians created the finest kapa (barkcloth) in Polynesia. Bananas ripen behind the flower of this variegated manini mai‘a. The fruit of the ‘ulu, or breadfruit tree, is versatile and nutritious; it’s the same plant Captain Bligh and the HMS Bounty, of mutiny fame, set off to gather.

HAWAIIAN SOUL

Roots, bark, sap, leaves and fruit ... every part of the noni plant has a therapeutic use in traditional Hawaiian medicine.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

The Hawaiian language itself is rich with the influence of canoe plants, as when an impatient child is told, ‘“A‘ohe hua o ka mai‘a i ka lā ho‘okāhi” — bananas do not fruit in a single day. blood pressure, ulcers and sprains. Even today, Hawaiians use noni juice as a remedy for arthritis, and a study published in the Journal of Medicinal Plants found that athletes who drank noni juice enjoyed improved endurance. The Hawaiians found in the bark of many canoe plants the equivalents of cotton, flax and hemp. They soaked the inner bark of wauke (paper mulberry) — esteemed for its softness and lightness — then pounded it into kapa to make everything from men’s loincloths to hula apparel to sandals. They wound the fibers from the hau tree into cords of all sizes, from small threads for making lei to thick ropes for hauling logs. The master woodworkers of Hawai‘i carefully selected the canoe plants which would support their handicrafts. Bamboo was one of their picks for the creation of mats, containers and musical instruments. They transformed hardwood kamani into food vessels, shaped milo tree wood into ‘umeke ‘ai (poi bowls), and crafted highly prized calabashes out of the wood of the lovely kou tree. Kēpau, a milky liquid found in breadfruit, served as caulk for canoes, and the juice from the kukui tree was both a principal ingredient in canoe paint and a waterproofing agent for cloth. When properly prepared, kukui nuts are edible, and when set aflame, their oil provides much-needed light on dark nights. Beyond their physical contributions, the canoe plants also played a spiritual role in the lives of the early settlers — a role which continues to be important for modern-day Hawaiians. The plants' kaona (hidden meanings) radiated through every aspect of society, and were often linked in sacred rituals to the major Hawaiian gods. Kukui ceremoniously bestowed the kaona of enlightenment, guidance and peace, and kalo held the greatest mana (power), and was said to be the kino lau,

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HAWAIIAN SOUL

Left: Bananas grow on heavy stalks, the nascent fruit tucked inside the petals of the mai‘a’s pendulous flower. Right: Kalo (taro) is a staple food of the Hawaiian diet. Its pounded roots are the stuff of poi, and its leaf gives the lū‘au its name.

or body form, of Kane, the procreator. (In fact, the ‘oha, or shoots, of kalo are the root of the word ‘ohana. which means family, or “all the shoots.”) The fertile ipu is the physical form of the agriculture god Lono; the banana is a kino lau of Kanaloa, the god of healing and the sea; and the coconut is a form of Kū, the god of war. There is no real distinction in Hawaiian healing between the spiritual and the medicinal. For example, the astringent and purifying properties of turmeric radiate into its mana, making it the perfect ingredient in a beverage drunk during the harvest season to purge one’s being of negativity for the coming year. Even today, the canoe plants maintain a vital presence in the Islands. Hawaiian doctors still advocate a highly nutritious, traditional diet centered around poi, breadfruit and sweet potatoes for obese and diabetic patients, and the spiritual aspects and rituals of the plants’ kino lau have been passed down through generations. The Hawaiian language itself is rich with the influence of the canoe plants, as when an impatient child is told, ‘“A‘ohe hua o ka mai‘a i ka lā ho‘okāhi” — bananas do not fruit in a single day. Contemporary Hawaiian farmers, herbalists and cultural practitioners follow in the path of the kanaka maoli, the Native Hawaiians. Kahanu Garden in Hāna created a forest of 120 different cultivars of Hawaiian breadfruit to ensure the diversity and sustainability of this important plant. And cultural practitioners say a prayer before picking a plant — an act of respect to nature and a request for permission from the gods to use it. The canoes may have berthed long ago, but the mission of the kanaka maoli — to bring the knowledge and wise stewardship of ancient plants into the future and adapt their uses to the present — has not changed. To see canoe plants and learn about their uses, cultivation and the traditions surrounding them, visit Maui Nui Botanical Gardens, 150 Kanaloa Avenue, Kahului | mnbg.org | (808) 249-2798 | IG/FB @mauinuibg Information in this article was culled from Canoe Plants of Ancient Hawai‘i, by Lynton Dove, and La‘au Hawai‘i: Traditional Hawaiian Use of Plants, by Dr. Isabella Abbott. This story originally appeared in our November-December 2006 issue. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

LEAH DAMON

AT HOME

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This unique Upcountry community is leading the way toward a more sustainable Maui. Story by Lara McGlashan

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

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TOP: DREW SULOCK / BOTTOM: RINA CHAVEZ

Top: These Hōkū Nui homes stand girder and beam above the rest with an airy, contemporary floor plan and 10- to 15foot ceilings. Above: While most developments are designed to divert water away from a property, catch-ponds at Hōkū Nui collect rainwater and runoff through cleverly integrated roadways and roof catchments for farming and non-potable use. Developers estimate the ponds will capture up to four million gallons of stormwater runoff per year.

AT HOME

LEAH DAMON

Two beautiful homes sit high atop a hill in Hōkū Nui. Their generous outdoor living spaces connect you to the “agrihood.”

Just above Makawao Town lie 258 acres of rolling green terrain. Centuries ago, this was a diverse forest of koa, ‘ōhi‘a (a flowering evergreen) and olopua (Hawaiian olive) trees, but over time the land was transitioned to agricultural use for the production of sugar, pineapple and beef. Today, sugar and pineapple are gone, but ranching persists: Cows graze serenely to the left, sheep to the right, and chickens front and center as they survey the field to be picked over and fertilized, often simultaneously. Look closer and you’ll see some signs of change: a fire hydrant sprouts from the landscape here and there, a winding roadway wraps around a series of ponds, and through the trees, a hillside of sleek solar panels sparkles in the sun. Nēnē (Hawaiian geese) waddle into a collection pond and a flock of finches tilts and slices in formation through the sky. This is Hōkū Nui, a regenerative agricultural community that integrates eco-friendly living with culture, forestry and animal husbandry, where all the elements in the community — the people, land, plants, animals, water and energy — support one another symbiotically. The project was originally inspired by Karin Frost and her brother

Erik, long-time environmental advocates committed to the restoration of the area with the mission of adopting regenerative farming techniques, reforestation practices and, ultimately, resource independence. “Regenerative agriculture is one of the most prolific and growing trends in sustainability,” says Jim Hammett, CEO of Hōkū Nui. “It is the next step some farmers are taking to sustain and improve the environment.” And indeed, the backbone of Hōkū Nui is regenerative farming, a system of agricultural operations and grazing practices which works to rebuild the organic and microbial matter in the soil while also rehabilitating the overall ecosystem of an area. This is accomplished with a calculated rotation of grazing animals to ensure the grass and soil are being improved upon rather than stripped and depleted, as with conventional farming. “The underlying goal of our agricultural operation is to increase the biodiversity of the soil,” says Nicholas Sickles, Hōkū Nui director of farm operations. “This foundation leads to increased resilience in forage for our grazing animals, supports future farming and native-reforestation efforts and increases soil permeability.” Hōkū Nui employs a number of other regenerative practices such as Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

AT HOME

keyline plowing, (a no-till method wherein thin lines are cut into the soil to increase water filtration and more evenly distribute water), and the production of natural fertilizer made from animal manure, green farm waste and composting. The architecture of the landscape itself was carefully analyzed, and builders designed the infrastructure and roadways to help capture the rainfall and funnel it from watersheds into large storage ponds for agricultural and non-potable use. Since farming and ranching are the mainstays of the Hōkū Nui community, a butchery was constructed to service the animals raised on-property. It is also available to neighboring farmers, who to date have had to ship their livestock to the mainland for processing, and will enable greater food security and economic support for Maui. And this summer, Hōkū Nui will open a food hub, designed by culinaryvenue artist Bill Kohl, which includes a store, pizza oven, community garden and farm-to-table food truck.

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The ultimate goal of Hōkū Nui is to be fossil-fuel-free. “The microgrid [solar] system provides one megawatt of generated power, with three megawatts of storage utilizing Tesla batteries,” says Hammett. “And the well provides 1.7 million gallons per day; Hōkū Nui has a need for less than 250,000 gallons per day at full occupancy.” Hammett hopes to work with Maui County to share any excess resources with the community. The reach of Hōkū Nui extends well beyond farming and ranching, however, and the founders wish to manage the land in the Hawaiian style and spirit of stewardship as opposed to ownership. This in mind, 20-some acres have been dedicated to Polynesian-style native forest restoration which involves companion planting of short-term foodproducing plants with long-term native trees. This blend of native and canoe crops (those that were brought to the Islands by the original settlers) helps them resist wind and stormy conditions as well as

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ERIK FROST / RINA CHAVEZ (2) / DREW SULOCK

Clockwise from top left: A bird’s-eye view of the Hōkū Nui development; Cattle and sheep are moved to new pasture several times per day; Chickens (who, after a brief hiatus, will return to action in summer 2021) peck a pasture clean of pests outside their chic coop-on-wheels; White Dorper sheep act as lawn mowers, keeping the grass underneath three acres of solar panels neat and tidy.

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Hōkū Nui is honored and excited to debut this cutting-edge project which we believe is the future of land management.

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Outdoor Living

drought, weeds and pests. Another 3.5 acres has been gifted to Hālau Ke‘alaokamaile, a hula arts resource center led by Kumu Keali‘i Reichel, which, until now, has not had a permanent physical home base. The center will eventually house a hula hālau, classrooms, a recording studio and a commercial kitchen, and they will plant the surrounding grounds with practitioner crops used in hula practice such as wauke (paper mulberry), ‘uki ‘uki (Hawaiian lily), ‘olena (ginger) and kalo (taro). “Hōkū Nui is honored and excited to debut this cutting-edge project which we believe is the future of land management,” says Hammett. “We are happy to be leading the way in such a positive direction for Maui, Hawai‘i, the country and the world.”

HŌKŪ NUI LIVING

2 61 L A L O S T R E E T . K A H U L U I . M A U I 873-8325 . OUT-DOOR-LIVING.COM

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The overarching philosophy of Hōkū Nui is to balance environment, community and culture with financial viability. To that end, home sales will help perpetuate the community and all the activities therein. “The ideal Hōkū Nui homeowner is conscientious, environmentally supportive and wants to make a difference in the world with their home-ownership investment,” says Hammett.

AT HOME

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5670 Hāna Highway, Hāna, Hawaiʻi 96713 | 808-248-7238 | www.hanaranch.com

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A battalion of Tesla storage batteries connected to a three-acre field of solar panels harnesses the power of the sun. In case of emergency, the entire community can subsist on battery power alone for three days.

There will be a total of 42 single-family structures (21 homes and 21 cottages) built in phases and sold by reservation. Each home sits on a one- to two-acre lot which is further surrounded by conservation-dedicated land, resulting in an “effective land area” of anywhere from two to 40 acres per home, depending on location. The gentle downslope of the property means that each home is all but guaranteed a view — whether it be of the ocean, the West Maui mountain, Haleakalā, Moloka‘i, or all of the above. One home and one cottage have already been built and measure 3,200 and 1,000 square feet, respectively. The architecture seamlessly blends indoor and outdoor living with an easy, organic flow. In the main home, 10- to 15-foot ceilings and sturdy steel-beam supports give the space a contemporary, open feel, and poured-concrete floors deliver an overall polished — and low-maintenance — appeal. The main living area features a grand yet functional kitchen with a cooking island and waterfall

DREW SULOCK

Susi has lived on Maui for 20 years. She has resided in Pukalani, Pa‘ia, Ha‘iku, Kula, Makawao—is quite familiar with the Upcountry lifestyle as well as South Maui & West Maui properties. She works diligently for her clients to get the best deal possible. Give Susi a call and get to know her.

countertop overlooking a large dining area with a two-sided gas fireplace — perfect for those chilly Upcountry nights. Opposite and outside, the fireplace again provides the focal point for the 1,000-plus square feet of exterior living space with room enough for your entire ‘ohana. Four bedrooms and three bathrooms flank the kitchen and outdoor area, and the master bedroom boasts a walk-in closet and a spa-worthy two-person outdoor shower and deep, luxurious soaker tub. Three-panel sliding glass doors open the master bedroom to the outdoors, and two tiers of windows mean brilliant light any time of day. A two-car garage finishes the package, and surrounding it all is drought-resistant landscaping. The cottage is no less impressive, with a similar outdoor shower/bath combo off the master bedroom, and a 600-square-foot outdoor living space which separates the main house from the kitchen. This bonus “room,” if you will, does not count toward the 1,000 square feet of cleverly utilized interior living space, and nearly doubles the living area of the cottage. This home is also outfitted with the same oversize garage, as well as beautiful landscaping and the beginnings of a stand of bamboo in the backyard. For more information on purchasing a home and being part of the Hōkū Nui community, go to NewHomesatHokuNui.com. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

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BRYAN BERKOWITZ

Dining

Thirsty patrons wet their whistles in Lahaina at Tommy Bahama’s Marlin Bar.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

DINING

The importance of Hawaiian food security cannot be underestimated. Here’s how one local ranch teamed up with seven eager students to support the Islands’ families in need. Story by Becky Speere | Photography by Ryan Siphers

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BECKY SPEERE

Project ‘Ulu

Opposite: Cows graze lazily in the Hāna Ranch ‘ulu orchard. This page: Student Jacob Devlin sorts ‘ulu according to ripeness at the University of Hawai‘i Maui College kitchen. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

Students Phrincess Jhuline Constantino, Evan Gikas and Kui Hanks help wash and prep nearly 2,000 pounds of ‘ulu harvested from Hāna Ranch.

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DINING

Above: Gary Johnson (left), consulting chef at Hāna Ranch, and Duane Lammers (center), manager of Hāna Ranch, combined forces with the Maui Food Innovation Center and UH Maui College culinary students to support food security in the Islands. A single ‘ulu tree (right) can live 50 to 100 years (or more), and can produce up to 1,000 pounds of fruit in a single year!

COURTESY OF HĀNA RANCH

t’s early morning at the University of Hawai‘i Maui College as we stand in the loading dock outside the Pa‘ina building. Duane Lammers, manager of Hāna Ranch, addresses our group. “A luxury helicopter tour company was arriving with visitors who would be staying at the Hāna Ranch guest house,” he recounts. “We went into the house make sure it was ready and found a herd of goats!” We laugh as he explains that a gate was accidentally left open, providing access for the ruminants. “Every employee came to help remove the goats and clean the place up,” adds his wife, Rose. “We were lucky they hadn’t started to eat the furniture!” “So, no more goats for us,” concludes Lammers. “Now we’re concentrating on growing and processing ‘ulu. It’s not as exciting, but it’s much easier to manage!” The laughter subsides as my husband, Chris Speere, Maui Food Innovation Center site coordinator, steps forward. “There is a lot of potential to build on this collaboration between the MFIC and Hāna Ranch,” he says. “Engaging these culinary students with hands-on experiences can open their minds to creating a specialty market of products [from seed to shelf]. I can also see future partnerships with other leading Maui growers of coffee, olives, kalo [taro] and cacao. This is an exciting time.” This has indeed been a win-win for UHMC culinary students and Hāna Ranch, and the ‘ulu stars serendipitously aligned with the arrival of Covid-19 in Hawai‘i in spring of 2020: The students were learning via virtual classroom, so the campus kitchens were empty and unused, and Lammers had decided to process his harvested ‘ulu on-island, so he was in need of resources to make it happen. Speere coordinated a partnership between the students (who needed hours to fulfill their program requirements), Hāna Ranch (which needed warm bodies) and UHMC chancellor Lui Hokoana (who helped secure funding) to make it all happen.

Around 8:30 a.m., brothers Lester and Trinity Kaiwi, part of the vegetation-management team at Hāna Ranch, pull their truck up to the loading dock. Three heavy-duty storage containers rest in the truck bed, and hold approximately one ton of harvested ‘ulu. This is the second such shipment the Kaiwis have hauled the 50-plus miles along the narrow north-shore coastline that winds from Hāna to Kahului — a nail-biting trip on a good day. “What time did you get up this morning?” I ask Lester. “We were up at 4 a.m. getting the ‘ulu shipment ready,” he says. “Fortunately, no one [else] was on the road this early.” Though the 3,600-acre Hāna Ranch is largely known for its grass-fed beef, several acres are set aside for orchard cultivation. In 2014, the Kaiwis planted 1,000 cloned seedlings from the Breadfruit Institute in Hāna’s National Tropical Botanical Garden, part of a program to revitalize ‘ulu in Hawai‘i. “[They’re] like our keiki [children],” the Kaiwis say of the ‘ulu trees. Unfortunately, the Hāna Ranch cattle didn’t get the memo that these orchards were not for their benefit: They quickly decided that ‘ulu was their new favorite delicacy — and devoured about 75 percent of the newly planted trees. “We were told that cows don’t like ‘ulu, but they were wrong!” laugh the Kaiwis. Fortunately, the remaining 100 or so trees proved to be very prolific, which is evident when the Kaiwis open the containers to reveal mounds of round, ripe breadfruit.

One of 24 canoe plants brought to the Islands by early settlers, ‘ulu is a staple of the Hawaiian diet. It is naturally low in fat, low glycemic, non-GMO and gluten-free — a great alternative for those with allergies and sensitivities.

The students unload the truck by hand, placing the fruit onto carts in a single layer and roll them into the building. Several students man each workstation, where they wash and clean the bowling-ballsize breadfruit, then weigh it and sort it onto different carts. “We sort the ‘ulu by ripeness for savory and sweet applications, like for hummus or for pies,” explains Gary Johnson, consulting chef at Hāna Ranch. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

DINING

Under the guidance of consulting chef Gary Johnson, students weigh and cook the ‘ulu in commerical appliances.

Once they transfer all the ‘ulu into the kitchen, students then carry out several bulging bags of cooked, refrigerated ‘ulu skins — trimmed from last week’s crop — and load them onto the truck. “Oh, the pigs [in Hāna] going to get fat now!” calls Lester Kaiwi from behind the wheel as they depart. The washing and weigh-in process takes hours, and when they finally remove their prune-like hands from the water we learn that the weight of the day’s haul totals 1,919 pounds. This is the second harvest of the year so far; the week prior yielded 1,621 pounds. “Since 2016, Hāna Ranch has shipped all of its ‘ulu to the Big Island ‘Ulu Cooperative, but with the [38 percent] increase in shipping costs and about 20 percent spoilage in route, we decided to process [some of it] here on Maui,” says Johnson. “We are still shipping half of our ‘ulu to the Big Island, though. There just isn’t enough grown [there] for their needs.” Hāna Ranch plans to sell the remaining ‘ulu to local hotels and restaurants. Back in the kitchen, the students cook the fruit in a variety of commercial appliances — one combi-oven, a steamer-kettle cooker, two tilt-skillets and a deck oven with steam. Once it reaches an internal temperature of 135 F, the ‘ulu is removed, cooled a little, then cut in half. The students then pare off the bumpy skins, remove the cores and save the trimmings to be upcycled into feed for the happy Hāna pigs to enjoy the following week. “[The ‘ulu] is next cut into wedges and cooled to 70 degrees within two hours, according to the Hawai‘i State Department of Health guidelines,” explains Johnson. “The wedges are frozen and shrink-wrapped

and finally packaged into 50-pound boxes for wholesale delivery.” The students seal and package the last of the fruit, then they stretch and smile. It has been an eight-hour workday, beginning early that morning with a total kitchen sanitization and ending with the rolling of the final cart of ‘ulu into the freezer. “These helping hands have been great!” says Johnson about the UH students. “We have a process in place and we’ll only get faster.”

‘Ulu is extremely versatile and can be made into all manner of dishes, including hummus, chips, ice cream, pie, soup, salads, stew, casseroles, lasagna, burgers, pickles, gnocchi, bread and even chocolate mousse!

Two months later, seven loads of ‘ulu have been processed for a grand total of 11,113 pounds (about 5 1/2 tons). On this final day, I survey the room and see happy, glowing faces, a testament to the success of the ‘ulu project. But still, I sense a modicum of sadness with the end of this fulfilling experience. “We appreciate your time and professional work ethic and look forward to a continued relationship with the college,” says Lammers to the group, adding that the ranch plans to install pig- and cow-resistant fencing to protect future plantings. “It looks like we will have another flush of breadfruit starting in February, so I hope we can count on you to help again.” Smiles abound and students depart, vocalizing their future commitment to the project with enthusiasm. The value of collaborating for a sustainable food future can’t be measured, but one thing is for sure: If we care for the land and grow food for everyone, we will enrich the lives of all and will give truth to the phrase, “Lucky we live in Hawai‘i.”

For more information about Hāna Ranch, visit hanaranch.com IG/FB hanaranch.

FUN ‘ULU FACTS When burned, male ‘ulu flowers provide a natural mosquito repellent.

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‘Ulu wood is lightweight, making it ideal for building boats.

The sap of both the tree and the fruit can be made into an adhesive and used for wound care, caulking and waterproofing.

‘Ulu bark can be used to make paper and cloth such as kapa.

Above and left: Before cooking, students pare off the ‘ulu skins and remove the spongy cores, which are not palatable for humans. For goats, however, these castoffs make a heavenly, upcycled dinner. Below right: Students (from left to right) Evan Gikas, Jacob Devlin, Kui Hanks, Milmar Villanueva, Gary Johnson, Kailipuhanoha Palakiko and Alexie Jan Calma package frozen ‘ulu into bags which they then shrink-wrap and box for commercial use.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

DINING HIGHLIGHTS

The Great ‘Ulu Breadfuit is having a moment. Here are some recipes to entice your palate and please even the pickiest eaters. Story by Becky Speere When John Cadman took over the chef management of the kitchen at the Upcountry campus of Kamehameha School in 2011, one of his biggest goals was to bring ‘ulu back into the ‘opu (bellies) of Hawaiian children — many of whom had never tasted this important “canoe crop,” introduced by their ancestors who arrived here in great sailing canoes. With Western contact, breadfruit fell out of favor as a dietary staple, replaced in large part by imported potatoes and rice, and very few chefs regularly incorporated ‘ulu into their daily menus. It still existed deep in the memories of the kūpuna (elders) and oldtime plantation workers, and my mother, the

daughter of sugarcane field laborers, would pan-fry slices of ‘ulu in oil and serve it with a drizzle of shoyu for dinner. Not fancy, but tasty and nutritious all the same. So when I heard Cadman was substituting ‘ulu for potatoes in mass quantitites of “potato salad” for Kamehameha School, I was intrigued. I paid him a visit and watched as he prepared the dish with diced ‘ulu, hardboiled eggs, mayonnaise, minced onions, grated carrots and parsley. It was delicious! ‘Ulu is a happy partner in all dishes because, like a chameleon, it takes on whatever character you assign it. Do you want it to be spicy like rissoles or make it into a

Basic ‘Ulu Preparation

‘Ulu Chowder With Kona Lobster and Sweet Kula Corn

1. Wash and dry ‘ulu. Cut into quarters. Remove and discard spongy core. Dice remaining flesh into 1-inch pieces. Place in a large stock pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil and cook until easily pierced with a fork, but still firm. Drain and allow to cool. 2. Wash and dry ‘ulu. Place it whole in a steamer and cook 45 to 60 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the center slides in easily (similar to a cooked potato). Cool until manageable, then remove outer skin. Cut in half and remove core and spongy center. Dice remaining flesh.

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Courtesy of chef Tylun Pang from the Fairmont Kea Lani, Wailea Makes 4 to 6 Servings | Prep Time: 1 Hour INGREDIENTS 2 tablespoons butter 4 slices bacon, cut into ¼-inch pieces 1 cup onion, diced 1 cup celery, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 4 tablespoons flour 4 cups chicken stock 1 bay leaf 4 cups ‘ulu, cooked and cut into 1-inch pieces 1 cup Kula corn kernels (2 ears) 1 cup cooked Kona lobster meat 1½ cups heavy cream 1 teaspoon Tabasco kosher salt, to taste ground white pepper, to taste pinch fresh parsley, finely chopped

DIRECTIONS In a large soup pot, melt butter over moderate heat. Add bacon and cook until lightly browned. Add onions, celery and garlic and saute until soft. Add flour and stir to coat; don’t burn! Slowly pour in chicken stock while stirring and bring to a boil. Add bay leaf, reduce heat to a simmer and cook 10 minutes, or until vegetables are tender. Add ‘ulu and return to a simmer. Cook another 10 minutes, then add corn, lobster and cream. Stir as you heat to a simmer. Season with Tabasco and salt and pepper (to taste). Top with parsley and serve with crusty bread.

FAIRMONT KEA LANI

The ripeness of your ‘ulu will determine its best use. If it is soft, ripe and spoonable, use it for sweet recipes such as pie — no cooking necessary. If it is hard and firm, use it in a delicious savory dish. Here are two easy ways to cook your ‘ulu. Make a batch ahead of time and store it in the fridge for a whole week’s worth of meals.

lovely, sweet pie? ‘Ulu will comply. I predict ‘ulu will start to trend this year due to accessibility and ease of use. Duane Lammers and Gary Johnson of Hana Ranch have brought a ready-to-cook-and-eat product to the market. Look for it in the freezer section of your favorite store, and if you don’t find it, ask the store manager to carry it. If you have access to fresh breadfruit, use some and share some with your neighbors, and with ‘ulu in hand, make some of these delicious recipes. As you enjoy them with friends and family, be thankful for this ancient crop and the enterprising people who brought it to the Islands so many years ago.

Challenge

Too good to save for special occasions, chef Tylun Pang’s ‘Ulu Chowder With Kona Lobster and Sweet Kula Corn does double duty as either a starter or a main course. No lobster? Sub a nice piece of locally caught fish instead. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

DINING HIGHLIGHTS

‘Ulu Tamale With Charred Pineapple and Tomatoes Executive chef Adam Rzeczkowski of Merriman’s Kapalua presented this original tamale recipe at the 2019 Maui Ag Fest. Although he didn’t fill it with the typical pork, chicken or green chiles, his is a great foundational recipe to build upon using your own creative fillings. Makes 15 to 20 Tamales | Prep Time: 2 Hours INGREDIENTS 1 small pineapple, peeled, cored and sliced 15 to 20 banana leaves* 1 cup coconut oil 2 teaspoons achiote paste 1 large ‘ulu (6 pounds), steamed and diced salt, to taste 1-2 tablespoons water, more if needed 2 tomatoes, seeded and diced into ½-inch pieces

Serve ‘Ulu tamales alongside meat, seafood or even grilled tempeh. (Pebble design porcelain plate by Kihei ceramicist Curt Stevens. @curtstevensporcelain)

DIRECTIONS Char pineapple slices over a hot fire, dice and set aside. Remove ribs from banana leaves and cut into 5-inch-by-8inch pieces. Add achiote paste and coconut oil to a saucepan and heat on low, stirring, until paste is completely broken down and has colored the oil. Cool, then strain through a fine sieve into a bowl. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and carefully banana leaves in to soften. Working in batches, put ‘ulu and salt (to taste) in a food processor and pulse until ‘ulu looks like grains of rice. With machine running, slowly drizzle in achiote oil one tablespoon at a time until mixture looks dry, like flour cut into butter. Add water a tablespoon at a time until dough forms a slightly sticky mass. Scoop into a large bowl. Repeat with remaining ‘ulu. Spread banana leaves on a flat surface. Spoon six tablespoons of ‘ulu mixture into the center of each leaf, fold over the sides and ends and tie with kitchen string. Steam tamales 10 to 15 minutes. Serve garnished with diced pineapple, tomatoes and sides of choice. *Can’t find banana leaves to use in this recipe? Use ti leaves or tinfoil squares instead.

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BECKY SPEERE

OPTIONAL SIDES barbecued pork green chiles pipi kaula (Hawaiian-style marinated dried beef)

Tropical ‘Ulu Salsa and Crispy ‘Ulu Ribbons Courtesy of Chris Speere, former site coordinator for the Maui Food Innovation Center at UH Maui College This recipe uses locally sourced ‘ulu and tropical fruit as a fresh accompaniment for seafood or poultry. It’s also amazing served with Crispy ‘Ulu Ribbons (see recipe)! TROPICAL ‘ULU SALSA Makes 9 Cups | Prep Time: 30 Minutes INGREDIENTS SALSA 2 cups ‘ulu, cooked and diced 1 cup ripe papaya, diced 1 cup pineapple, diced 1 cup mango, diced 1 cup fresh lychee, diced, optional ½ cup red bell pepper, diced ½ cup Maui onion, diced ½ cup green bell pepper, diced ½ cup jicama, diced ½ cup fresh cilantro, minced 1/8 cup fresh mint, minced DRESSING 4 tablespoons Maui Sunflower Oil 4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons sweet Thai chili sauce 1 tablespoon rice vinegar, optional salt, to taste DIRECTIONS Add all salsa ingredients to a bowl and stir gently to combine. Place dressing ingredients in a separate bowl and whisk to combine. Pour over salsa and mix gently. Adjust seasonings to taste. CRISPY ‘ULU RIBBONS Makes 8 to 10 Servings Prep Time: 1 Hour

BECKY SPEERE

INGREDIENTS 1 large whole ‘ulu 2 cups Maui Sunflower Oil pink Himalayan sea salt, to taste DIRECTIONS Wash and dry ‘ulu. Trim top and bottom and pare off skin. Cut into quarters lengthwise and remove dense core. Discard. Use a potato peeler or mandolin to slice ‘ulu into

thin ribbons. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Working in batches, lay ‘ulu strips in a single layer in the pan and cook until stiff and light brown on both sides. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. Repeat with remaining ‘ulu. Add sea salt, to taste. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

MIXOLOGY

Catch a Cocktail

Stop by Tommy Bahama’s Marlin Bar for a special slice of paradise.

Our weary feet thanked us as my partner and I walked into the Marlin Bar at Tommy Bahama in Lahaina and took a seat outdoors facing the azure sea. After a day of perusing the Outlets of Maui on Front Street in the sun, we were thirsty for icy, rejuvenating drinks. We settled on the Crazy Cuban, a mellow, yellow tropical cocktail made with Mount Gay Eclipse rum, Cruzan coconut rum and banana liqueur; and the top-shelf Baja margarita made with Sauza Commemorativo Anejo, Grand Marnier, homemade sour mix and fresh lime juice. We relaxed more and more with each sip of paradise and were soothed into bliss with some of the most attentive waitstaff on-island and our unobstructed view of the ocean. Make this crafted cocktail recipe — courtesy of Tommy Bahama — at home, or better yet, take a break from your next Lahaina shopping spree and visit the Marlin Bar to indulge. Tell the gang we sent you!

By Becky Speere

Mai Tai 1 ounce Flor de Caña 4-yearaged rum 1 ounce orgeat syrup 1 ounce orange Curaçao ½ ounce lime juice ¾ ounce sour mix (See recipe.) ¾ ounce pineapple juice 1 ounce dark rum skewered pineapple chunks, optional Add first six ingredients to a mixing glass and shake well. Pour over ice. Top with dark rum as a floater. Garnish with skewered pineapple (if using).

Whisk egg whites in a bowl until frothy. Stir in sugar and mix well. Add remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Store in a sealed container in the refrigerator. Shake or stir before using.

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COURTESY OF TOMMY BAHAMA

SOUR MIX 1½ cups pasteurized egg whites 1 cup sugar 2 cups water 1¾ cups lemon juice 1 ounce lime juice 1 ounce orange juice

LOCAL FARE , IMAGINATIVE FLAIR Dine at Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort, where locally sourced ingredients meet innovative culinary experiences. Indulge your senses at Ka’ana Kitchen with award winning cuisine. Unwind at Lehua Lounge where our expert mixologists craft cocktails that are as appealing to your palate as they are to your eyes. Book your reservation today on OpenTable or call us at 808 573 1234. MORE INFORMATION AT ANDAZMAUI.COM

Dining Guide B=Breakfast BR=Brunch L=Lunch H=Happy Hour D=Dinner N=Dinner past 9 p.m. R=Reservation recommended $=Average entrée under $15 $$=Under $25 $$$=Under $40 $$$$=$40+ =‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2020

WEST SIDE A‘A ROOTS Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Ste. 3, Nāpili, 298-2499 Vegan cuisine made with the freshest Maui produce. Try the açai bowl, soba bowl with peanut sauce, or bagel sandwich with hummus, avo and veggies. International. B, L, $ ALALOA LOUNGE Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200 Creative farm-to-table cocktails, mocktails and an exciting selection of savory dishes from the menu, such as juicy huli huli chicken, sushi and stone-oven pizza. International, D, $–$$ AMIGO’S 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210 Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, flautas and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D, $ THE BANYAN TREE The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096 Chef Bella Toland’s interpretation of her grandmother’s pancit palabok is a Filipino noodle dish full of shrimp and calamari, finished with a lobster-stock reduction in annattoginger-garlic-shrimp sauce and topped with herbs, chicharron and garlic. Pacific Rim. D, $$–$$$$ BREAKWALL SHAVE ICE COMPANY The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., #104, Lahaina, 661-4900 Grown-up shave ice? You bet! Cool off with one of the best snow cones on Maui and discover your favorite flavor. Treats. $ CANE & CANOE Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 6626681 Try the avocado toast and mimosas for breakfast and prime select steaks with horseradish créme fraiche for dinner. Lunch at the Hāna Hou Bar includes Wagyu bacon-cheddar burgers and vegetarian selections. Yum! Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D, $$$–$$$$ CAPTAIN JACK’S ISLAND GRILL The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 672 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0988 Choices include Sirens’ shrimp, Black Bart’s BBQ chicken salad and Black Beard’s Philly cheesesteak. American. L, D, $–$$ CHEESEBURGER IN PARADISE 811 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4855. Wake up to oceanfront views as you sip a cuppa’ joe and dig into a luscious breakfast. For lunch, try the poke, wings, onion rings, or a hefty cheeseburger. For dinner, go for Aloha Fish and Fries. B, L, D, International. $–$$ CHOICE HEALTH BAR 1087 Limahana Pl., #1A, Lahaina, 661-7711; Second West Maui location: Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali. All juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are made with fresh ingredients. Daily Specials. American. B, L, $

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CLIFF DIVE GRILL Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031 Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish tacos to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $–$$ THE COFFEE STORE Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 669-4170 Stop in for a coffee and muffin and you may just end up staying for lunch — or longer. (They’re open until 6 p.m.) Great service and fresh-baked goods, yogurt-granola parfaits, chia pudding and to-go items. Coffee Shop. B, L, D, $ COOL CAT CAFÉ The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908 Burgers, chicken and more in a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $ DOWN THE HATCH The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900 Mermaid fries with cheese and lava sauce, towering shrimp cocktails, fresh island fish and lots of Southern aloha. Great shave ice, too! (See Breakwall’s listing.) Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D, N, $$ DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$ DUKE’S BEACH HOUSE MAUI Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900 Imagine Old Hawai‘i while dining on crab-and-macadamia-nut wontons or prime rib at this open-air beach house. Kidfriendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$ FEAST AT LELE 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353 This classic beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$ FLEETWOOD’S ON FRONT ST. 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. (Yes, that Fleetwood.) Pacific oysters with tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome and a onepound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. Bar opens at 2 p.m. American/British Pub Food. L, H, D, N, $$–$$$$ FOND Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Ste. 115, Nāpili, 856-0225. Breakfast silog bowls with garlic fried rice, sammies for lunch, Wednesday night fried chicken special and Sunday Chef’s Table. Eurasian. B, L, D, $–$$ FRIDA’S MEXICAN BEACH HOUSE 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287 Chalupas, fresh aguachile ‘ahi, short-rib tacos and great mixology are among the reasons this seaside restaurant won

Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call ahead or visit their social media sites for information.

the Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Mexican Cuisine. Latin-inspired. L, H, D $–$$ GAZEBO Napili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Nāpili, 669-5621. All day! Breakfast for lunch, lunch for breakfast. Fluffy pancakes, omelets, plate lunches with Cajun-spiced chicken or kālua pork, salads and seven burgers to choose from. Ocean views are free! International, B, BR, L, $ HONOLULU COFFEE COMPANY Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 868-4806 ‘Aipono’s 2019 Silver Award winner for Best Coffee Shop, this full-service coffee bar also offers light fare such as a granola parfait with fresh fruit, bagels and ham-and-cheese croissants. Coffee Shop. B, L, $ HONU SEAFOOD & PIZZA 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390 Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D, $$ HULA GRILL Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636 Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy poke tacos, tiki mai tais, homemade ice-cream sandwiches and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $$ INU POOL BAR The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6370 Island-fresh mixology earned Inu the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best Cocktails — taste for yourself! Enjoy Maui Brewing Company’s Coconut Hiwa beer-can chicken with shoestring potatoes and buttermilk dip, or Maui beer-battered tempura fish with Ocean Vodka tartar sauce. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $–$$ JAPENGO Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Great steaks and authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood are just two of the reasons Japengo won ‘Aipono’s 2019 Gold Award as Restaurant of the Year and the 2020 gold award for Best Pacific Rim Cuisine. Japanese. D, N, $$$ JOEY’S KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474 Second West Maui location: Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590 Start your day with macadamia-nut pancakes or a kālua-pork omelet at Whalers Village and end it with dinner at Joey’s Nāpili venue. Chef Joey Macadangdang knows good food. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $–$$ KĀ‘ANAPALI GRILLE & TAP ROOM Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 100 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-7733 From the people who brought Cheeseburger in Paradise to Lahaina comes this venue which serves burgers, sandwiches, pizzas and salads. For dinner, enjoy steak or fresh fish as well as one of 30 wines for under $30. American. D, $–$$

LAHAINA GRILL 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117 Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted goat-cheeseand-arugula salad, Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with vanilla-bean jasmine rice, or the famous Kona coffee-roasted rack of lamb with coffee-cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selection and cocktails. American/Pacific Rim. D, R, $$$$ LEILANI’S ON THE BEACH Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495 Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors with a lemongrass miso salmon and Duroc pork ribs with honey BBQ glaze. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, H, D, N, $$

Lahaina Fried Soup Pohole Salad HAPA RAMEN STAR UDON AHI AVO GARLIC NOODLES Singapore Noodles Steamed Pork Buns PAD THAI malasadas SAKE COCKTAILS

LEODA’S KITCHEN & PIE SHOP 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600 The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw and ice-cold beer, or justsqueezed lemonade will make you want to dance. After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie! American. B, L, D, $ LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476 This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. Also see South Shore listing. Treats. $ MĀLA OCEAN TAVERN 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9394 Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the healthconscious and the hedonistic alike at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings are nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (Sat–Sun), L, D, $$

FRESH HOUSE MADE NOODLES & ASIAN SPECIALTIES SERVING LUNCH & DINNER

1285 FRONT STREET NEXT DOOR TO THE OLD LĀHAINĀ LŪ‘AU

RESERVATIONS & TAKE-OUT

808.667.5400

MAUIGROWN COFFEE COMPANY STORE 277 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-2728 If you’re running low on energy, head to MauiGrown’s plantation-style hale for a boost. Pumpkin bread and other baked goods round out a great cuppa joe. Coffee Shop/Café. B, L, $

Client: Leod Trim 4.64" Color: FULL

MAUI’S BEST BANANA BREAD + COFFEE CO. 180 Dickenson St., #115, Lahaina, 661-6216 Bananas, roasted macadamia nuts and coconut — all of life’s essentials rolled into a single serving of sweetness. Coffee, smoothies and lunch, too! Try a bacon, egg and ham bagel, a turkey-avo wrap or a gluten-free banana bread. Coffee Shop. B, L, $ MAUKA MAKAI The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6400 Expect the freshest fish, beef and lamb, vegetable sautees and islandinspired desserts at this restaurant that celebrates the fishing and farming cultures of ancient Hawai‘i. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $–$$$ MERRIMAN’S KAPALUA 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua, 669-6400 Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to conjure up the most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, R, $$–$$$$ MISO PHAT SUSHI Kahana Manor, 4310 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #111, Kahana, 669-9010 See South Shore listing. MOKU ROOTS 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 214-5106 This vegan/ vegetarian venue is worth a visit! They won the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best New Restaurant and the 2020 Silver ‘Aipono for Tastiest Healthy Fare. Vegetarian/ Vegan. B, L, D, $

AND OUR HOMEMADE SWEET & SAVORY PIES

OPEN DAILY FROM 7AM to 8PM

BREAKFAST • LUNCH • DINNER

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2021

Dining Guide More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call ahead or visit their social media sites for information.

MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763 See South Shore listing. MYTHS OF MAUI Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9119 Live music, Polynesian dance and an Island-inspired buffet complete with kālua pig unearthed from the imu. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$ OLD LĀHAINA LŪ‘AU 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0700 Eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$ PACIFIC’O 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341 Try the breakfast loco moco with a slant: “fried rice” tots, Maui onion gravy and organic poached egg with house-made sausage. Kaua‘i grass-fed beef burger with cured lamb bacon topped with smoked bourbon onion jam for lunch. Lobster ravioli for dinner. Hawai‘i Regional. BR (Sun), L, D, $$–$$$$

Kā‘anapali, 661-3611 Breakfast offerings include loco moco and eggs Benedict, or go light with a delightful avocado toast topped with microgreens. Burgers and prime rib, too. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $–$$ SALE PEPE 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667 Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini and house-made strozzapreti pasta — just like Chef Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good Italian wines and beer. Italian/Pizza. D, $$ SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286 Small and action-packed, D.K. Kodama’s classy sushi bar draws lines late into the night. Try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, R. $$$

try all the offerings at the award-winning Sunday brunch. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D, $–$$$ TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-1919 Thai food made by Thai chefs. 100 dishes from spring rolls and pad Thai to yellow curry with seafood. Thai, L, D, $–$$ ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 790 Front St., Lahaina, 877-3700 Second West Maui location: Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali Homemade tropicalflavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Kid-friendly. Treats, $ ‘ŪMALU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4902 Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, $$$

PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 632 Front St., Lahaina, 662-3456 See North Shore listing.

THE SEA HOUSE RESTAURANT Napili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500 Start the day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp as the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammy-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$

PAPA ‘AINA Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636 Try the new, curated menu by Bravo Channel’s Top Chef competitor Lee Anne Wong. Smoked salmon Benedict for breakfast and cheesy kālua-pig nachos with a cold beer at happy hour. Dig into a plate of shrimp and Portuguese sausage linguine for dinner. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $–$$

SON’Z STEAKHOUSE Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506 Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically-prepared, line-caught mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/ Steak. H, D, N, $$–$$$$

PIZZA PARADISO MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929 Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Med. L, D, $–$$

STAR NOODLE 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5400 Big-city style and local flavors unite. Enjoy a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea as you drink in a view of Lāna‘i across the channel. The ramen broth is extra smoky, the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D, $$

1054 TOGOSHI South Maui Center, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 8680307 Chef Manabu’s twenty-five years as a sushi chef — two of them as head chef at Morimoto’s Maui — shine through in fresh sashimi and sushi. Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of each month. Sushi. D, $–$$

TAVERNA 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426 Taverna is dining heaven. House-made pastas, agrodolce-style fish of the day and Italian desserts that stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Great wine, cocktails and craft beer. Italian. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$

AKAMAI COFFEE COMPANY 1325 S. Kīhei Rd., Unit 100, Kīhei, 868-3251 Second South Shore location: 116 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 868-0003 Experience coffee and espresso done right at this 2020 ‘Aipono Gold Award winner for Best Coffee Shop! Coffee Shop, $

TEDDY’S BIGGER BURGERS 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111 The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $

BISTRO MOLOKINI Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips and grilled mahimahi made with fresh, local ingredients are served in this casual, open-air eatery. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $$$

PRISON STREET PIZZA 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332 East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Italian/ Pizza. L, D, $ PŪLEHU, AN ITALIAN GRILL The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200 Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or a succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with chocolate almond cake and amarena gelato. Italian. D, $$$ ROCKSALT Sheraton Maui, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600 Eclectic, globally-inspired shared plates combine exotic spices, ingredients and flavors with fresh produce from local farms. A fresh cocktail menu features Hawai‘i-produced spirits and housemade infusions. Kid-friendly. International. B, H, D, R, $$–$$$ ROY’S 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999 At lunchtime, line up for a great Maui burger. For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled ginger. Save room for the signature Melting Hot Chocolate Soufflé! Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$$ ROYAL OCEAN TERRACE RESTAURANT Royal Lahaina Resort & Spa, 2780 Keka‘a Dr.,

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TEPPAN-YAKI DAN Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600 Start with Oyster Dan — seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko — then watch your chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece. Japanese/Steak. D, R, $$$ THAI CHEF Old Lahaina Center, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814 This small, well-loved venue keeps fans coming back for commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D, $ TIKI TERRACE RESTAURANT Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0011 Dine in casual comfort with the full-service menu, or challenge yourself to

WAIKIKI BREWING COMPANY 900 Front St., Lahaina, 856-0036 Paddy’s Irish stout and Waikele Wheat brew temper the heat in ~o queso dip served with a giant pretzel. the jalapen Follow it up with smoked Kona coffee-rubbed beef brisket and cheddar potato cake and you’ll be one happy patron. American. BR, L, D, $–$$

SOUTH SHORE

BOTERO BAR Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Named for the surrounding Fernando Botero sculptures, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays, when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. L, D, H, N, $ CAFÉ O’LEI 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368 Choose from macadamia-nut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger-shrimp linguine and other favorites. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$ COCONUTS FISH CAFÉ Azeka Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979 Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish

burgers or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D, $$ DUO Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Breakfast buffet or à la carte? Did someone mention chateaubriand? Four Seasons never disappoints. Pacific Rim. B, D, $–$$$ FABIANI’S PIZZERIA & BAKERY South Maui Center, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 8740888 Second South Shore location: 34 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 874-1234 Enjoy lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, and spaghetti with house-made pork-sausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. B, L, D, $$ FAT DADDY’S SMOKEHOUSE 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711 What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked for fifteen hours over kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans and two cabbage slaws: one sweet-tart and one with blue cheese and apples. American. D, $–$$ FERRARO’S BAR E RISTORANTE Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 For lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside. For dinner, salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, H, D, $$$$ FORK & SALAD 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675 Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, gluten- and dairy-free options. International. L, D, $ FOUR SEASONS LOBBY LOUNGE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Impeccable service, a locally sourced menu, swank cocktails and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. H, D, N, $$$$ HONOLULU COFFEE COMPANY The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-6630 See West Side listing. HAVENS 30 Manao Kala St., Kīhei, 868-2600 Local boy Zach Sato, former chef de cuisine at Hawai‘i’s Relais and Chateau hotel and restaurant, is ready to serve at his new digs in Kīhei. Try the smash burger and noodles — chopsticks in one hand and burger in the other — local style! Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, $–$$ HUMBLE MARKET KITCHIN Wailea Marriott, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655 Chef Roy Yamaguchi hits it out of the park with kampachi crudo, seasonal Goose Point oysters, roasted Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, tender beef short ribs and even saimin. Perfect. Pacific Regional. B, H, D, $–$$$ ISLAND GOURMET MARKETS The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055 Sushi to go, deli sandwiches, plate lunches and much more. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $ KA‘ANA KITCHEN Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Start with a Wagyu hanger steak on a green papaya salad, then charred octopus with local goat cheese. Next, Kona abalone on creamy risotto, or a modern take on chicken and waffles.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2021

Dining Guide More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide There’s also a curated wine list and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D, $$$$ KAMANA KITCHEN 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-7888 Eye-catching art and Indian relics accent a menu highlighting exotic spices and dishes, all lovingly created from family recipes. Lunch buffet. Indian. L, D, $–$$ KIHEI CAFFE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8792230 Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.? Head down to this surfer hangout for banana-mac-nut pancakes, loco moco and a cuppa joe. Café. B, L, $–$$ KŌ Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock”: three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock to sear them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, H, D, R, $$$

100% Extra Virgin Maui Olive Oil Unfiltered, cold pressed Grown & hand harvested on Haleakalā, Maui Artisanal processing Visit our Farmstand in Kula on Waipoli Road

www.MauiOlive.com Info@MauiOlive.com

LEHUA LOUNGE Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Cocktails created with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients like lychee, liliko‘i and Hawaiian navel oranges go hand-in-hand with Ka‘ana Kitchen’s award-winning menu. Lounge. H, $ LINEAGE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8800 If steamed clams with housemade "XO" and lup cheong sausage, Maui beef with black garlic and hulihuli chicken with pineapple kim chee get your juices flowing, head to Wailea — now! Eat. Drink. Talk story. Pacific Rim. D, $–$$ LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE Kihei Kalama Village Shopping Center, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779 How to chill out in the Islands? Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with Plantation Era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut pudding) and macadamia-nut ice cream. Treats. $ LONGHI’S WAILEA The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883 Eggs Benedict, made Florentinestyle with spinach or topped with crabcakes, will lure you out of bed. Have an open-face chicken picatta sandwich for lunch and seafood pasta for dinner. Expansive wine list, too! Italian. B, L, H, D, $$$ LUANA LOUNGE Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kālua-pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce and lomilomi tomato paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, H, D, $–$$ MANOLI’S PIZZA COMPANY 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499 Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppine. Italian/Pizza. L, H, D, N, $$ MATTEO’S OSTERIA Wailea Town Center, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466 Matteo’s meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, ‘ahi crusted with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, H, D, $$–$$$

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MISO PHAT SUSHI Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476 Sushi served on-site, to-go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! Japanese. L, H, D, $$ MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Wailea Gateway Center, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322 Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner, Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage and banana-cream pie. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, N, $$ NICK’S FISHMARKET Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-7224 Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. H, D, R, $$$$ NUTCHAREE’S AUTHENTIC THAI FOOD Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840 Start with ‘ahi laab tartare salad or a crispy-fish-mango-salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D, $–$$ PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888 The same yummy menu that hooked surfers and families for years in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei. See North Shore listing. THE PINT & CORK The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 727-2038 The best mac-and-cheese with black truffles, shrimp and grits with chorizo, poke bowls and burgers. During football season you can score breakfast, too. Touchdown! American. L, H, D, N, $–$$ PITA PARADISE Wailea Gateway Center, 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 879-7177 Start with classic spinach tiropitas with caramelized onions, feta, mozzarella and tzatziki wrapped in phyllo dough, then move on to kabobs, pasta and gyros. Baklava ice-cream cake, too. Mediterranean. L, H, D, $–$$$ PIZZA MADNESS 1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 270-9888 This familystyle restaurant serves Cobb salad, hot and cold deli sandwiches, award-winning pizza and pasta. Italian/Pizza. L, D, $–$$ THE RESTAURANT AT HOTEL WAILEA 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224 Produce from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients around. With a gorgeous outdoor setting, it’s a night made in heaven. European-inspired. H, D, N, $$–$$$$ ROASTED CHILES Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357 Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like chicken mole, pozole verde and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, H, D, $–$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880. Steaks and homespun side dishes worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine

Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call ahead or visit their social media sites for information. list earned this chain loyal fans — and this venue doesn’t stray from the flock. American. H, D, N, $$$$ SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR Kīhei Town Center, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8790004 See West Side listing. SARENTO’S ON THE BEACH 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555 Inspired entrees backed by great wine and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location — smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, L, H, D, R, $–$$$ SOUTH SHORE TIKI LOUNGE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8746444 Gourmet pizza, burgers, salads and several vegetarian items round out the menu at this hip bar. American. L, D, N, $ SPAGO Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Start with fresh poke nestled in crunchy sesame-miso cones, then move on to the caramelized pork chop with exotic notes of anise, cinnamon and pineapple. Chef Peleg will have you singing his praises. Pacific Rim. D, N, $$–$$$ TANPOPO 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., #F, Kīhei, 446-3038 Lunch offerings include ramen, Japanese-style chicken curry, California rolls and beef burgers. Dinner goes Italian and Japanese with pastas, flatbreads, sashimi, sushi and tempura. Japanese Fusion. L, D, $–$$$

CAFÉ O’LEI AT THE MILL HOUSE Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 442-7742 Fun, expanded menu at the restaurant group’s newest venue. Maui’s most beautiful mountain backdrop to boot! Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $–$$$ FORK & SALAD Pu‘unene Shopping Center, 120 Ho‘okele St., Unit 330, Kahului, 793-3256 See South Shore listing. MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-CUPS (2877) Pastries, muffins, salads, sandwiches, wraps and bagels and lox made to order. Fresh-roasted coffee beans set this experience above the rest. “Happy Cappy Hour” from 2 to 6 p.m. Coffee Shop. B, L, H, $ MAUI FRESH STREATERY MauiFreshStreatery.com, 344-7929 Kyle Kawakami was ‘Aipono’s 2019 Chef of the Year, and in 2020 won the Gold ‘Aipono for Best Food Truck. He rocks street food with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L, $ ONLY ONO Kahului, 777-9026 Crispy-skin Chinese-style roast pork and duck, bao pork buns, plate lunches and smoked brisket. Location varies; download menu and schedule at OnlyOnoBBQ.com. Chinese– American. L, D, $ A SAIGON CAFE 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560 Squeeze into a

booth and order a clay pot, the Vietnamese burrito, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D, $ SAM SATO’S 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 244-7124 This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian B, L, $ THAI MEE UP Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369 Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles. Curry, too! Thai, Food Truck. L, D, $ TIGHT TACOS 349 Hanakai St., Kahului, 707-1221 Get the threetaco plate lunch (braised beef, pork and shrimp) with street corn, rice and salsa. Scratch great Mexican street food off your foodie bucket list! Mexican. L, $ TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 893-0026 See West Side listing. TIN ROOF MAUI 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753 Sheldon Simeon of Top Chef fame builds memorable kau kau bowls filled with his savory offerings: furikake-crusted seared salmon, Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter and a killer spicy fried-chicken sandwich. Pacific Rim. L, $ TJ’S WAREHOUSE 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 244-7311 Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel) and a hot line of daily specials like potato croquettes, nishime and poke. Asian. B, L, $

THREE’S BAR & GRILL 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133 Eggs Benedict six ways, including seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon and prime rib. For lunch, Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen. For dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Pacific Rim/Southwest. B, L, H, D, $$–$$$ TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT & BAR The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983 Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, N, $–$$ ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei See West Side listing. VIDAD’S LOCAL KINE GRINDZ 1 Pi‘ikea Ave., Kīhei, 214-6995 Local plate-lunch menu changes regularly to showcase island-style cuisine. Fried poke bowl, steak bites, garlic shrimp and chow fun, too! Food Truck. L, D, $

CENTRAL BISTRO CASANOVA 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 873-3650 This downtown bistro serves paella for two, fresh-cut French fries and burrata caprese, as well as fresh pasta dishes. Best pau hana (happy hour) in Kahului. Mediterranean. L, H, D, $–$$ CAFÉ O’LEI, THE DUNES AT MAUI LANI 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073 Same great fare as the South Shore location, served beside a links golf course overlooking West Maui’s mountain. American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, $$

HAWAIIAN

Banyan Tree

COASTAL

CUISINE

A vibrant new menu embraces the spirit of Maui, inviting you on a journey to discover the roots of the land to the bounty of the sea.

OPEN TUESDAY THROUGH SATURDAY – 5 P.M. TO 8:30 P.M. For reservations, please visit OpenTable.com or call 808-669-6200 | Complimentary Parking The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua | One Ritz-Carlton Drive, Lahaina, HI | banyantreekapalua.com | #banyantreekapalua

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2021

Dining Guide More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call ahead or visit their social media sites for information. UMI MAUI 1951 Vineyard St., Wailuku, 269-1802 If a California roll topped with tuna, hamachi, salmon, unagi and a kim-chee-butter foam rocks your world, then Chef Jayse Sato’s restaurant is your earthquake! Creative presentations and flavors and epic soft-shell crab bao buns. BYOB! Japanese. D, $–$$ ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului Second Central Maui location: 50 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku See West Side listing.

“We Know Wine” meet our maui team

WAILUKU COFFEE COMPANY 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259 Espresso, salads, sandwiches and ice cream all served in a relaxed and eclectic setting. Coffee Shop. B, L, $

UPCOUNTRY

James Maher Tod Clayton S. Maui Sales W. Maui Sales Certified Sommelier Certified Sommelier

Charles Fredy VP, Director of Sales & Marketing Advanced Sommelier

LOOK FOR US EVERYWHERE.... Find our wines around the state at many fine resorts, restaurants and retailers.

hawaii’s fine wine specialist since 1979 EST. 1973 @ChambersWinesHawaii @chamberswineshi

www.chamberswines.com

MauiMagazine.net

GRANDMA’S COFFEE HOUSE 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140 The eggs Benedict and made-from-scratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onions. Coffee Shop/Snacks. B, L, $–$$ KULAMALU FOOD TRUCK LOT Kiopa‘a St., Pukalani Gravel lot next to Longs. Many food trucks with a choice of vegetarian, local-style plate lunches, açai bowls, barbecue and more. LA PROVENCE 3158 L. Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313 Perfect croissants, fruit tarts, blueberry-mango scones and artisan breads baked fresh daily. On weekends, muscle past long-distance cyclists to order a Benedict or salmon-pesto crêpe. French/Bakery. Cash only. B (Wed-Fri), BR (Sat-Sun), L (Wed-Fri), D (Thur-Sun), $

well-loved standard. Plush bar setting with original cocktail menu. Kid-friendly. American/ Pizza. B, L, H, D. $$ ESTERS FAIR PROSPECT 2050 Main Street, Wailuku, 868-0056. Serving classic cocktails, tiki drinks, craft spirits, rum, amaro, Mezcal, tequila, wine and beer. Local farm-to-table inspired small plates, too. Rosé wine and daiquiris during Happy Hour. Open 2 p.m. to 10 p.m. H, $ FLATBREAD COMPANY 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989 Big booths, a snazzy bar scene and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N, $$ MAMA’S FISH HOUSE 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488 Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine. Each detail evokes old-time island hospitality. In 2018, this Maui institution became a James Beard nominee for Best Restaurant. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, R, $$–$$$$ NUKA 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939 Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Creative lunch and dinner specials are epic! Save room for black-sesame or green-tea ice cream. Japanese. L, D, $$–$$$ NYLOS 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354 Ever since its opening, this fine-dining restaurant has garnered rave reviews on the coconut wireless for its menu and casual ambiance. International. D, $$$

LUMERIA’S WOODEN CRATE 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579-8877 Fresh, locally caught fish and other healthy fare highlight a menu that changes daily. Produce grown on Lumeria’s grounds are the foundation for many of the dishes at this charming retreat. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R, $$–$$$$

PAIA BOWLS 43 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 214-6504 Get amped with healthy fruit-and-granola açai bowls, avocado toast and nitro coffee. Try add-ons like ashwaganda, cordyceps and brain dust in your favorite Blue Majik smoothie. You’ll be waffling the surf after your iced matcha latte. Surfer fare. B, L, $

O‘O FARM 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341 Reserve a culinary tour to learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the woodburning oven and fresh-roasted coffee in this bucolic setting. Lunch includes chicken and fish entrees, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L, $$$$

PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030 Huge slabs of fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kidfriendly. Seafood. L, D, $

ULUPALAKUA RANCH STORE & GRILL 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561 Across the road from MauiWine, find great deli fare, hotoff-the-grill lamb burgers with tzatziki, grass-fed venison or beef burgers. Plus, homestyle chili and rice or kālua-pork plate lunch. American. L, D, $

NORTH SHORE CHOICE HEALTH BAR 11 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia, 661-7711 See West Side listing. COLLEEN’S BAR AND RESTAURANT 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211 Slip into a comfy booth and enjoy a roasted eggplant sandwich on homemade bread. The pizza is a

WAILUKU COFFEE CO Aloha Aina Center., 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 8683229 Downtown goes “country” with this second location, serving the same tasty salads, sandwiches, ice cream and espresso. Coffee Shop. B, L, $

HĀNA BAREFOOT CAFÉ 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732 Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or a mahimahi plate lunch to go. Pacific Rim. B, L, $ THE PRESERVE KITCHEN + BAR Travaasa Hāna Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401 Hāna-sourced fish and local produce are the basis of this original menu. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juices. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R, $$–$$$

WHO’S HELPING

Subscribing to Sustainability For years, Maui resident Jonathan Sherlock watched hundreds of tons of organic material (in the form of kitchen waste) go into landfills. Sherlock decided to divert a portion of that waste into the production of healthy soil and created Ground Up Maui, a subscription-based composting service. Residents and businesses fill five-gallon buckets with scraps, then schedule a regular pickup from their location. Ground Up Maui currently serves the North Shore, Ha‘ikū and Huelo. “My goal is to serve the ‘aina,” says Sherlock. groundupmaui.com | (206) 637-2763 | groundupmaui@gmail.com

Here’s What’s Cooking

Community is everything, and these oustanding local businesses and nonprofits deserve to be in the spotlight for all the good they do for the people, places, flora and fauna of Maui. By Felix Sunny D’Souza

With Maui's high unemployment rate in mind, chef Jason Raffin founded the Chef Collective for COVID, an initiative which inspired and empowered local chefs and cooks with a purpose and a professional, creative environment in which to give back to communities in need. “We wanted to provide a level of quality not found during times of hardship and share a bit of our soul and warmth through our craft,” says Raffin. Donations were used to purchase food from local farms, which the chefs then transformed into multicourse meals. Volunteers from Lahaina Baptist Church hand-delivered more than 3,000 of these high-quality meals to residents and families in need.

COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

chefcollectiveforcovid.com.

On the ‘Fore’-Front of Community Support

First Responders, First Vaccinations

In January 2021, the Sentry Insurance Foundation donated $250,000 to the Maui Food Bank, the county’s primary organization for hunger relief. “Supporting basic human needs … and improving quality of life are vital causes Sentry is committed to supporting in Maui,” says Kaylynn Pempek, executive director of Sentry. The Maui Food Bank purchases food from local farmers to create emergency food boxes for families in need. “Sentry’s donation will help us continue to sustain our community through these challenging times,” says Richard Yust, executive director of the Maui Food Bank.

Nursing students at the University of Hawai‘i Maui College held a drive-through vaccination clinic for first responders. The drive-through concept minimized contact between staff and clients for the safety of all, and students were even able to vaccinate their own professors. The college partnered with the Hawai‘i Department of Health, the Maui District Health Office, the Hawai‘i National Guard and the Maui County Emergency Operations Center for the undertaking. Vaccines are being distributed in accordance with the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's guidelines.

mauifoodbank.org | FB/IG @mauifoodbank

hawaiicovid19.com/vaccine Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

PAU HANA

Going Bananas

Story by Tom Stevens | Illustration by Matt Foster

After many years in dorm rooms and cinderblock “starter” apartments, I moved to Maui in 1974. I rented a spacious redwood house in ‘Īao Valley with three bedrooms, two baths and a garage for $230 a month. Those were the days. The house sat on a small but scenic flag lot opposite Kepaniwai Park. Out the back door, a mile of mountain soared into the mist. The front porch overlooked a vine-laced cliff and the dancing waters of ‘Īao Stream. As a bonus, a border of rocky soil skirted the fence line. Dirt, I thought. I’ll put in a garden! Having missed the prime Maui hippie years, I was tardy getting “back to the land.”

MauiMagazine.net

By the time I grew my ponytail and beard to their long and glorious bushiness, the island’s peaceniks had moved on to selling real estate. My little belt of red dirt probably hadn’t been tilled since the time of Kekaulike the Thunderer. But that didn’t deter me; I was young. I was strong. I was ignorant. And I was ready to plant. Wielding my pick and shovel manfully, I “double-dug” several beds to the prescribed planting depth. In the background, the living room stereo blasted musical motivation in the form of Gabby Pahinui; Country Comfort; Cecilio and Kapono; and Crosby, Stills and Nash. We are staaaaarrrdust, we are gooollldden,

and we’ve got to get ourselves back to the gaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrden! After several months, however, I was not feeling very golden. My full-grown carrots were the size of baby toes. My beets were as skinny and wrinkled as li hing mui. And squadrons of moths, fruit flies, aphids and leafhoppers had reduced my other crops to spittle. In desperation, I sought out my friend Archie at his little farm in Kēōkea. “‘Īao Valley?” he mused. “Well, bananas for sure. I’ve got some keiki you can have. Pull your truck around back.” A few days later, 25 deep holes ringed my ‘Īao Valley house. After filling them with horse manure from Wally Rodgers’s Waikapū paddock, I dug the stumpy banana corms into the holes, watered them thoroughly and sat back. Boom! Almost overnight, thick, brawny banana plants thrust up from the earth. The moist, tropical air murmured with the rustle of their broad, ever-unfolding leaves. Soon, sticky purple flowers appeared, then fell away to reveal hand after hand of plump green bananas. It was miraculous. As the bananas ripened and the bunches lengthened, I proudly propped up their sagging trunks. I pruned and watered and weeded. I plucked off fat, sated caterpillars who cut and rolled the leaves into tattered cigars. What I forgot to do was to think ahead. All 25 of my robust, well-fertilized plants fruited at the same time, and each bunch housed dozens of bananas. Who was going to eat them all? I also forgot the principal rule of banana harvesting: cut from the bottom! When my first bunch was ready, I stretched up to my full height, sawed the stalk through from the top — and ninety pounds of bananas flattened me like a linebacker. Once I could walk again, I cut down the remaining bunches in sections. There was a ton of fruit. Nishiki’s market in Wailuku kindly took some off my hands, but the rest rode around in the back of my truck. I took to accosting startled pedestrians at intersections. “Bananas!” I cried. “Please take some!” I eventually disbursed them all, but I had to twist a lot of arms. Now, when someone asks me what to plant in their garden, I just say: “Well, bananas for sure. Pull your truck around back. I've got some keiki you can have.” This story originally appeared in our Mar-Apr 2012 issue.

Serving Hawaii Is Our Business Since 2005, Pasha Hawaii has supported Maui’s locally-grown businesses, including Maui’s own Haynes Publishing Group, a second-generation familyowned company that publishes Maui Nō Ka ʻOi Magazine, Ka’anapali Magazine, Island Living, and Eating & Drinking magazines. These awardwinning publications focus on the life and culture on Maui, celebrating the people, places and events that make this Island, Maui Nō Ka ʻOi. “Our partnership with Pasha Hawaii is one of our most valued. Pasha understands the challenges and unexpected snags facing small-business owners everyday. From senior management to dock workers, the people at Pasha exemplify aloha in their business strategies and responsiveness. They truly care about our product. The remarkable success of Pasha is reflected in their unwavering commitment to the success of their customers.” — Diane Haynes Woodburn, Publisher, Haynes Publishing Group