Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine May-June 2021 by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine

of sharing Maui stories

Beach House Living

Sand Sea ALL HAIL THE RED, WHITE & BLACK Maui’s sand is awash with color

FOOD ALL DAY WONG

Celebrity chef Lee Anne Wong’s exclusive recipe

THE FLYING FISHERMAN Catch-and-keep kiteboarding

HIGH ON MAUI

Paragliding over paradise

VOL 25 NO. 3 US/CAN $4.95

M AU I M AG A Z I N E . N E T

“Its authenticity, intimacy, hospitality, cultural integrity and sheer romantic beauty have made this Maui’s top lū‘au.” F r o m m e r ’s M a u i

H awa i i M a g a z i n e

“This is the best lū‘au on Maui. I rate it the best in the state.” Featured in:

Emeril Live National Geographic Traveler New York Times The Travel Channel K a h i l i A wa r d s

1999 “Show”, 2000 “Attraction” Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau

Voted “Best Lū‘au”by Maui Residents Zagat Sur vey

“Excellent” “Extraordinary to Perfection” For Reser ved Seats Call

(808)667- 0700 To l l f r e e

(800)248-5828 www.oldlahainaluau.com 1251 Front Street, Lāhaina Along the ocean in Historic Lāhaina Town

TABLE OF CONTENTS Wai‘ānapanapa in Hāna is home to a black-sand beach steeped in legend. Read more on page 36. Photo by Bob Bangerter

Features

ISLAND BUSINESS STAYING POWER Four local businesses have stood the test of time to become Maui institutions. By Sarah Ruppenthal

MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA THE MICROSCOPIC MARVEL OF SAND Read about the science behind the shape and color of Maui’s remarkable sand. By Judy Edwards

ADVENTURE THE FLIGHT OF THE FELIX Have you ever wanted to fly like a bird? Paragliding is about as close as you can get. By Felix Sunny D’Souza

HAWAIIAN SOUL THE FISHERMAN’S NET For one Maui fisherman, this ancient craft is still a way of life and a sense of identity. By Teya Penniman Cover: Photographer Andrew Shoemaker captured this stunning aerial shot of a peaceful Maui beach where sand meets sea.

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AT HOME TAKEN ON FAITH Husband-and-wife architects resurrect a house once owned by the Catholic church. By Heidi Pool

Kapalua Oceanfront Estate

Kahana Oceanfront Legacy Estate

Montage Residences Kapalua Bay

Honolua Ridge Estate Sites at Kapalua

Lanai Manele Resort Estate

Maui’s #1 Realtor® 2020* We Represent Maui’s Finest Oceanfront, Resort, and Estate Properties. * Realtor Association of Maui

“For us, our client relationship doesn’t end at the sale. It’s just the beginning.”

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(808) 669-1000 | 500 Bay Drive in Kapalua | Hawaii Life is an Exclusive Member of Forbes Global Properties

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Departments

MAUIMAGAZINE.NET Want more MauiMag? Check out our online exclusives.

CONTRIBUTORS Here are just a few people who make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine that it is.

PUBLISHER’S NOTE By Diane Haynes Woodburn

TAG, WE’RE IT! Giving a shout out to the MauiMag fans who get social.

TALK STORY Tales of Hawai‘i fresh off the coconut wireless. By Shannon Wianecki, Lara McGlashan and Rita Goldman

CELEBRATING 25 YEARS We’ve turned 25! Here are some of our favorite stories of issues past. By Rita Goldman

WHO’S HELPING Community is everything, and Mauians are always there with a helping hand. By Felix Sunny D’Souza

PAU HANA FISH STORY By Cindy Cobb

Dining Stories by Becky Speere

FEATURE TREATED ABOVE THE TREETOPS Experience the incredible gastronomic skills of The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea’s chef Jonathan De Paz.

CHEF’S KITCHEN FOOD ALL DAY WONG Celebrity chef Lee Anne Wong shares her exclusive recipe for Kanpachi & Eggs.

Kiteboard fisherman Sam Reynolds tests the winds for speed and direction. Read more on page 24. Photo by Jason Moore

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MIXOLOGY BIRDS OF A FEATHER Try this cocktail recipe, courtesy of the Birdcage Bar and Lounge at Hotel Wailea.

DINING GUIDE Here’s a list of some our favorite places to eat, all over the Island.

82° AND BLAZING BLUE 1437 Front Street, Lahaina 10:00 hourS

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Kahana Sunset B2B • 1br/1ba • 700 sf ˇ Kulakane 209 • 1br/1ba • 849 sf * Mahina Surf 114 • 1br/1ba • 547 sf Napili Shores D125 • 0br/1ba • 448 sf ˇ Royal Kahana 317 • 0br/1ba •431 sf * Royal Kahana 703 • 0br/1ba • 431 sf Royal Kahana 1018 • 0br/1ba • 431 sf ˇ

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KAANAPALI RESORT CONDOS Masters 2203 • 2br/2.5ba • 1,512 sf * Maui Eldorado G206-207 • 2br/2.5ba • 1,440 sf ˇ Maui Eldorado G207-208 • 2br/2.5ba • 1,440 sf ˇ Maui Eldorado L102 • 1br/2ba • 960 sf

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TOP PRODUCER 2020 ISLAND SOTHEBY'S INTERNATIONAL REALTY

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REALTOR®(S) RS-56519 Vice President, ePRO CB@LuxuryRealEstateMaui.com LuxuryRealEstateMaui.com

REALTOR®(B) RB-23187 Heidi@IslandSothebysRealty.com

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808.250.0210 © 2020 Island Sotheby's International Realty. All rights reserved. Sotheby’s International Realty® and the Sotheby’s International Realty Logo are service marks licensed to Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates LLC and used with permission. Island Sotheby's International Realty fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Each franchise is independently owned and operated. Any services or products provided by independently owned and operated franchisees are not provided by, affiliated with or related to Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates LLC nor any of its affiliated companies.

TABLE OF CONTENTS → WEB

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Want more Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi? Go to our website for exclusive articles, recipes, contests, videos and more. Here’s what’s in store this issue.

BEACH, PLEASE! Listen to local actress and Mana‘o radio cofounder Kathy Collins talk story about the mysterious popularity of Waikīkī, why Maui’s beaches are like Spongebob Squarepants, and eating seaweed straight from the ocean to disgust tourists. MauiMagazine.net/ da-beaches-of-maui-county

FAMILY FUN Get the most out of Maui’s coast with these age-appropriate beaches, ranked from toddler to teen. MauiMagazine.net/ maui-beaches-kids

SNORKEL SECRETS These top picks for snorkeling spots will help you find Nemo. MauiMagazine.net/ maui-snorkel-spots

TAG US #LoveMauiMag

VISIT OUR DIGITAL PLATFORMS

EMAIL US info@mauimagazine.net

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LISTEN TO US Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine and SilverShark Media podcast on Spotify and iTunes

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@MauiMag_Eats MNKOmagazine MauiMagazine MauiMag

PODCAST: LOVE THE SEA Listen to Campbell Farrell from the nonprofit Love the Sea discuss their Hard to Reach Beach Cleanups and their goal to remove 100,000 pounds of debris from the ocean in 2021. MauiMagazine.net/ podcast-love-the-sea

TOP L–R: PETER LIU, MATT FOSTER / CENTER: JOHN GIORDANI / BOTTOM L–R: CESERE BROTHERS, COURTESY OF LOVETHESEA.ORG

24/7 SAND Maui has more than 60 beaches, several of which have been named “Best Beach in America.” These four take you from an earlymorning stroll to a spectacular sunset and everywhere in between. MauiMagazine.net/maui-best-beaches

82° AND BLAZING BLUE

For Your Perfect Ocean View 1437 Front Street, Lahaina 10:00 hourS

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Breathtaking Ocean and Mountain Views

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TOP LISTING AGENT 2020 ISLAND SOTHEBY'S INTERNATIONAL REALTY

Wendy R. Peterson REALTOR®(S) RS-61995 Wendy@IslandSothebysRealty.com WendyRicePeterson.com

(808) 870-4114

© 2020 Island Sotheby's International Realty. All rights reserved. Sotheby’s International Realty® and the Sotheby’s International Realty Logo are service marks licensed to Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates LLC and used with permission. Island Sotheby's International Realty fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Each franchise is independently owned and operated. Any services or products provided by independently owned and operated franchisees are not provided by, affiliated with or related to Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates LLC nor any of its affiliated companies.

MASTHEAD

There’s a saying known in the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.

Publisher Diane Haynes Woodburn Group Publisher Michael Haynes Creative Director John Giordani

Editor-in-Chief Lara McGlashan

EDITORIAL

Consulting Editor Rita Goldman Dining Editor Becky Speere Website Manager Adelle Lennox Digital Media Manager Felix Sunny D’Souza Digital Media Contributor Tori Speere MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Account Manager Brooke Tadena Advertising Sales (808) 242-8331 ADMINISTRATION

Controller Kao Kushner Subscriptions & Office Manager Nancy Wenske NEWSSTAND SALES & CIRCULATION

Subscription Inquiries Toll-Free: (844) 808-MAUI (6284) or visit Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net National MagNet, National MagNet, Disticor Magazine Distribution Services Hawai‘i MagNet | In-Room Maui Circulation CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Cindy Cobb, Felix Sunny D’Souza, Judy Edwards, Rita Goldman, Lara McGlashan, Teya Penniman, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere, Heidi Pool, Shannon Wianecki CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Melanie Agrabante, Bob Bangerter, Cesere Brothers, Felix Sunny D’Souza, Gary Greenberg, Jason Moore, Travis Rowan, Stephanie Russo, Andrew Shoemaker, Ryan Siphers, Christy Stesky, Diane Haynes Woodburn CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATORS

Matthew Foster E-MAIL: Info@MauiMagazine.net

Moving? Send address changes to: Haynes Publishing Group, 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793. Please note: If your magazine is undeliverable, Haynes Publishing has no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year of notification.

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living and Eating & Drinking magazines 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; (808) 242-8331. ISSN 2473-5299 (print) | ISSN 2473-5469 (online) ©2021 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly subscriptions: U.S., $24; Canada, $44; Foreign, $64. Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net.

Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi, an environmental leader whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

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For Your Sand & Sea

OLOWALU: This spectacular 2 acre Oceanfront Property, rich with Maui history, is a jewel to behold! Owners are afforded unparalleled privacy and stunning views of Lanai and Kahoolawe, as well as a lifetime of incredible sunsets. This private, two acre oceanfront site, builder ready, comes complete with a producing citrus orchard, maturing mango trees as well as coconut trees and attractive monkeypod trees. A private, dual water system provides ample water for both domestic and agricultural uses. Access to a nearby launching site for canoes, kayaks and paddle boards ensures the owners will have endless opportunities to enjoy this unique and special oceanfront property. 2 acres offered for $4.8M

Wendy R Peterson

Jamie Woodburn

Realtor (S) RS-61995 Wendy@IslandSothebysRealty.com

Realtor (S) RS-63712 Jamie@IslandSothebysRealty.com

808.870.4114

808.870.5671

Island Sotheby's International Realty, 3628 Baldwin Ave, Makawao, HI, 96768, Each Franchise is Independently Owned and Operated.

CONTRIBUTORS

Here are some of the folks who make our magazine nō ka ‘oi (the best).

Bob Bangerter has been a Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi contributor for decades and it’s always an adventure when he shoots for us. Whether it’s petroglyphs or hot lava, Kalaupapa or Pe‘ahi by air, Bangerter adeptly illustrates the soul of these Islands. And this time was no exception when he photographed three unique beaches on Maui and beautifully conveyed their distinctive charms.

Teya Penniman’s interest in chronicling island life arose from her years spent working as a biologist in remote locations, tracking the connections between ocean productivity and the health of local residents — be they seals, birds, fish, or humans. Penniman continues to focus on protecting our Islands’ special places and the native species that call them home.

Born and raised in Japan, photographer Mieko Horikoshi teamed up with our social media manager, Felix D’Souza, to document his paragliding adventure — though she herself stayed grounded. Horikoshi is also a regular contributor to Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi in the realm of food photography. miekophotography.com | Society6.com/LilikoiMaui | IG @ miekoskitchen

Mālama ‘Āina (p.36)

Hawaiian Soul (p.48)

Adventure (p.42)

Heidi Pool is a 17-year Maui resident whose work has appeared in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, The Maui Concierge, Edible Hawaiian Islands and Fodor’s Maui. These days, she serves as the general manager of Hike Maui, whose highly entertaining and educational guides have been conducting tours of the island’s most beautiful natural environments since 1983. In her spare time, Heidi is working on her first novel — a murder mystery set on Maui, naturally.

Photographer Jason Moore has been shooting for Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi since the early days and also has been a steady contributor to our sister publication, Kā‘anapali Magazine. Moore spends his winters working with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) as a research and rescue assistant for humpback whale research. See more of his work at JasonAshleyMoore.com.

Judy Edwards is a conservation advocate and writer who has worked to protect the natural world for all of her 26 years in Hawai‘i. She has helped with outreach and education for the federal and state governments, and for nonprofits whose mission is environmental education and public lands. Edwards’s passion is biodiversity, and she has a soft spot for the unsung heroes of conservation who quietly hold the world together.

At Home (p.54)

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Talk Story (p.24)

Mālama ‘Āina (p.36)

Come visit us at

Old Lahaina Center Shop & Dine Foodland

Nagasako General Store Sale Pepe

Beyond Beauty Salon & Spa

West Maui Sports & Fishing Supply L&L Hawaiian Barbecue Nagasako Okazu-Ya Deli

Edward Jones Thai Chef

Noodle Bar

Maui Clothing Company

Lahaina Sports Bar & Cafe

845 Wainee Street, Lahaina, HI 96761 OldLahainaCenter.com

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

On Honu & Healing

A hui hou,

Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

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TOP: MIEKO HORIKOSHI

“You need to go paddling,” my husband says to me. I look at him in disbelief. He knows how hard I’ve been working, racing against a publishing deadline and working overtime to ensure I meet it. I’m running on empty, and he thinks I should get into a canoe? It takes every chromosome in my body to keep from blurting, I can’t! There’s too much to do! Instead, I say, “Let’s go.” The day is nothing less than glorious. The sky is blue, blue, blue; the ocean as clear as a fishbowl. We launch our one-person canoes from a beach in Kīhei and paddle to the reef. The rhythm of my stroke, the gentle lift and push of the ocean, the steady offshore breeze — all create a sweet state of reflective reverie. Jamie is right; I needed this. Life is pono (all good) again. Suddenly, haaahhoosh! That’s a tough one to transcribe. It’s the sound a honu (Hawaiian green sea turtle) makes as she pokes her shiny head above the surface to exhale, then gather another breath before diving down in search of more tasty limu (seaweed). Haaahhoosh! There’s another, and another, and then — I’m surrounded by honu. One surfaces just inches away, startling us both. Her doe eyes lock with mine and we study each other. Deciding I am harmless, she glides away gracefully, despite her immensity. I am impressed by her easy elegance, but what strikes me the most is her obvious good health: no tumors. In fact, of the dozen or more turtles all around us, not one appears to be afflicted with fibropapillomatosis (FP), a disease which at one point seemed likely to wipe out Hawai‘i’s green turtle population. Since its discovery in the 1930s, FP has spread to every ocean on Earth and has infected six of the seven sea turtle species. It causes the growth of both internal and external tumors, the latter of which manifests as grotesque lumps on and around the soft tissues of the eyes, mouth, neck and flippers. Though benign, the tumors can grow very large, impairing a turtle’s ability to feed, see, swim and float. Eventually, they may cause death. At its peak, the disease affected more than 60 percent of Hawai‘i’s honu. (See MNKO March/April 2007, mauimagazine.net/sea-turtle-health.) Scientists don’t know what causes FP and have no idea how to reverse it, but one thing is for sure: it is devastating. Once upon a time, there were several million green sea turtles navigating the Earth’s oceans, but today only an estimated 200,000 mature females are left, due in no small part to FP. Yet here she is — healthy and gorgeous. Over the last few years, scientists have noticed a decline in the disease on the whole, and a spontaneous regression of the tumors in individual turtles that once appeared to be doomed. For reasons not yet understood, the disease is simply disappearing. Perhaps my honu is one of the lucky ones. Sea turtles are true ancients in our world, and have impacted cultures far and wide in their 150 million years on the planet. Hawaiians, for instance, believe the honu guided the first voyagers to these Islands, and in Chinese mythology, the turtle represents wisdom. Then there is the anecdote I turned to as a child whenever I felt overwhelmed — “ slow and steady wins the race” — which helped me overcome many an obstacle. This is true, too, of my honu: she is not just another turtle — she’s a survivor who has weathered a dangerous storm. Suddenly, my worries seem very small indeed. If the honu can survive the dinosaurs, the ice age, the arrival of man and this devastating disease, certainly we humans can withstand some difficult times, as well. Spontaneous healing isn’t a myth. It just takes a little time. So exhale, grab a paddle and trust the ancients.

“Ka Mauna Aloha” Jewel of the Mountain

730 Lower Kimo Drive, Kula, Maui | $9,875,000 3 Bedrooms | 4 Bathrooms | Living 7,102 sf | 5.276 acres At an ideal elevation of 2,700 ft, you will pass through the private gates and enter a long, tree-lined, driveway to the finest estate in Upcountry Maui. The panoramic bi-coastal views are breathtaking. Peace and serenity await the new owners of this exquisite manor. Also included is an additional .822 acres with water meter.

RIETTE G. JENKINS MANAGING DIRECTOR OF GLOBAL LUXURY Realtor-Broker | RB-17543 riette@waileahawaii.com 808.870.4073 | waileahawaii.com

TAG, WE’RE IT

Our readers are as obsessed with Maui as we are. We see you out there, exploring the island and snapping those Insta-worthy shots. Follow us on Instagram @MauiMag, tag #LoveMauiMag and we’ll share some of our favorite posts in each issue.

@sawyer_advms A big slice of sand meets sea in South Maui.

@jennimatthewsphotography

And this little piggy went to the waterfall.

@aaronlynton Must be rainbow thirty ...

@andrewshoemakerphotography Canoe believe this sunset?

@danielsullivangallery Astrophotography atop Haleakalā →

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SEA-TO-TABLE CUISINE On Napili Bay

AWARD

WINNING

Hawaii Magazine’s Third Annual Reader’s Choice Awards: Named One of the Top Five ”Best Hotel/Resort Restaurants” and "Best for Breakfast" in the state of Hawaii

OCEANFRONT Rated “Excellent” by Zagat

Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner • Happy Hour

DINING

Maui No Ka Oi Magazine’s Annual Maui Restaurant 'Aipono Culinary Awards: Best Ocean Front Dining: Gold

and Rosé all Day

Celebrating Over 55 Years of Aloha at Napili Kai Beach Resort 5900 Lower Honoapiilani Rd • Napili • Maui • Hawaii 96761 • 808.669.1500

Hours and More Information at SeaHouseMaui.com

TALK STORY

Fresh off the coconut wireless

Story by Shannon Wianecki Photo by Cesere Brothers

in season

Uhu? Uh, unusual Parrotfish are strange beasts. Called uhu in Hawaiian, these spectacularly painted reef dwellers have blunt heads and fused teeth that give them cartoonish smiles. They’re noisy eaters, and if you listen underwater, you can hear them munching on coral. After such a snack, they expel a stream of sand — as much as a ton a year per fish! In fact, most of Hawai‘i’s white sandy beaches are actually parrotfish poop. Seven species of uhu dwell in Hawaiian waters, including three endemics. The regal parrotfish, native to our archipelago, is fiery orange with brilliant purple fins. The stareye wears pink eye makeup that would make David Bowie envious. And the bullethead is perhaps the most flamboyant of the bunch, dressed in a rainbow of psychedelic pastels. All parrotfish start out drab, and while many stay that way, some female fish transition into males. Brightly colored and territorial, these “supermales” dominate the best spawning sites, and each controls a harem of females with whom he

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individually breeds. When he dies, the next-highest-ranking female in the harem changes sex and takes his place. Hawaiian fishermen in the past believed that parrotfish behavior hinted at happenings at home. Capering and frolicking fish might mean that a man’s wife was playing around. Meanwhile, if an attractive wahine (woman) walked by, a man might comment: “Momomi wale ku‘u ‘ono i ka uhu mā‘alo i ku‘u maka.” (“My mouth waters for the parrotfish passing before my eyes.”) A slippery uhu refers to a wily person. Which brings us to the weirdest parrotfish fact of all: Some uhu sleep in a cocoon made of mucus. (Yes, you read that right.) Before drifting off to sleep, certain parrotfish secrete a snot balloon up to three inches thick and snuggle in. Biologists theorize that the bubble protects the slumbering fish from eels on the prowl or parasitic crustaceans. It doesn’t prevent local fishermen from bagging the fish, however: Uhu are as delicious as they are unusual.

TALK STORY → day

in the life

Flying Fisherman NAME: Sam Reynolds TITLE: Kiteboard Fisherman LINE OF WORK: Kiteboard fishing might sound weird, but it has actually been around awhile. “Guys have been catching fish from windsurfing boards for as long as those have been around,” says Reynolds. “We borrowed the idea and adapted it by tethering a really strong handline to our kite harness rather than using a pole.” Kiteboard fishermen lay out their lines on the beach, then head out to a reef while dragging the line behind. “We use trolling lures designed to be pulled behind a boat at higher speeds,” says Reynolds. “It’s hard to go slow when you’re kiting so that makes the most sense.”

Story by Lara McGlashan Photo by Jason Moore

Reynolds gifted this ulua to the homeless during the lockdown in 2020. See him in action at MauiMagazine. net/kiteboard-fishing.

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CATCH AND RELEASE: The kiteboardfishing community gathers each July 4th for a tournament at Kanahā Beach Park, but in 2020 the tournament didn’t happen. “Which was too bad because it was our 10th anniversary,” says Reynolds. Also too bad because during practice Reynolds caught the biggest fish of his life. “I was trying out a new lure and caught a monster ulua — had to be about 40 pounds,” he says. “I released her back into the ocean, though. I didn’t want to take such a large breeding-size fish out of the ecosystem. Plus, a fish that size ... you never know how it will taste!”

INSET: COURTESY OF SAM REYNOLDS

FIGHTING CHANCE: Kiteboarders typically ride far offshore, skipping across the whitecaps on the windiest of days. Though it seems unlikely that this sort of oceanic chaos would make for good fishing, Reynolds begs to differ. “With a kite you’re able to get to areas of the reef you can’t get to any other way,” he says. “And the best days to fish out there are the ones where the wind is blowing hard. On those days, when it’s rough, you see all kinds of fish chasing stuff around and feeding.” When Reynolds hooks a fish, he feels a pull on his harness and knows it’s game on. “With a small fish like an ‘ōmilu, you just pull it onto shore,” he says. “But with the big ones it’s a fight, and you can sometimes even come to a standstill out there. Eventually, with the help of the kite and the wind, you can tire them out.”

TALK STORY → artist

on location

A Brush With Valor

Kurokawa worked from old photographs, altering each image slightly. “We didn’t want him to paint specific soldiers,” says center director Deidre Tegarden. “The ones on the wall represent all the [JapaneseAmerican] soldiers who served in World War II.”

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Story by Rita Goldman Photography by Melanie Agrabante

When the Nisei Veterans Memorial Center opened in Kahului in 2006, a blank concrete retaining wall bordered one end of the property. No one thought of it as a canvas — until Maui artist Kirk Kurokawa came along. The NVMC honors the nisei (second-generation Japanese-Americans) who served in the U.S. Army in the wake of the attack on Pearl Harbor. Even as their families were being sent to internment camps, these young men strove to prove their loyalty by enlisting. Reluctant at first, the Army created the all-Japanese-American 100th Battalion, and then the Military Intelligence Service, 1399th Engineer Construction Battalion and 442nd Regimental Combat Team — the most decorated unit of its size in World War II. In 2016, Kurokawa found himself in a conversation with Saedene Yee-Ota, an NVMC board member. Moved by her stories about the center, Kurokawa offered his help. “I jumped on the opportunity and asked if he would paint a mural,” Yee-Ota recalls. “He is probably the best modern portrait artist in Hawai‘i.” An artist herself, Yee-Ota isn’t alone in her opinion. Kurokawa’s paintings have appeared in the Maui Arts & Cultural Center’s Schaefer Portrait Challenge every year since the statewide, curated exhibition launched in 2003. He won its Juror’s Choice Award in 2006 and People’s Choice Award in 2015, the same year then-governor Neil Abercrombie selected Kurokawa to paint his official portrait. Kurokawa’s largest solo project to date, the NVMC mural took six months to paint — after a year of poring over the center’s archives. “I started learning their stories,” he says. Among their feats: rescuing the “Lost Battalion,” (1st Battalion, 141st Infantry), after German forces surrounded it in France’s Vosges Mountains. The 442nd saved 211 men while suffering more than 800 casualties. “It humbles you to know these were regular guys from Hawai‘i that did this amazing thing,” Kurokawa says. “I’ve gotten so much more from this project than I gave.” The mural’s name? “Quiet Dignity, Everlasting Honor.” Discover more of Kirk Kurokawa’s art at KirkKurokawa.com, or visit Village Galleries in Lahaina. To learn more about Hawai‘i’s nisei soldiers, visit the Nisei Veterans Memorial Center, 665 Kahului Beach Rd., Kahului | FB @MauiNVMC | IG @niseiveterans

SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS

The best choice for this year’s staycation is the historic Pioneer Inn on Lahaina Harbor. Plenty of Places to Shop with over 14 Retailers ∏ Restaurants Atlantis Submarine

Whalers General Store

Papa’aina Restaurant

Best Western Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina (808) 661-3636 www.pioneerinnmaui.com

CELEBRATING 25 YEARS OF MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI

Encore! 20062010 This year, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine celebrates a quarter-century of bringing you Maui stories. Throughout 2021, we’ll pull some of our all-time favorites from the archives, printing a sampler in these pages and the complete stories online at MauiMagazine .net/25years. We’ve saved space in the November/ December issue to highlight some of your favorites. Go to our website and spend some time reading, then send your candidates to ideas@mauimagazine.net. Here’s to another 25 years. Mahalo for your enduring support. Story by Rita Goldman

2006 SEP–OCT Paniolo Polo

“It sounds like a Monty Python sketch: a bunch of cowboys, after a hard week of herding cattle out on the range, lay down their lariats and have themselves a polo game.” So began Michael Stein’s story about the Maui Polo Club, whose members “continue a tradition where captains of industry and cowboys have played side by side, and paniolo [Hawaiian cowboys] are internationally known champions.” Former Maui Polo Club player Bob Logan told Stein the game was brought to Hawai‘i — and was first played by — wealthy British and American aficionados. “But after World War II drained the life out of Maui polo, the ranching families ... turned to their loyal paniolo,” Stein noted. One Maui team competed in the U.S. Open a few times, “using a freewheeling but aggressive and skillful style of play all their own.” The pandemic reined in the 2020 games, which are usually played in the spring and fall. Stay tuned for updates. MauiPolo.com | FB/IG @MauiPoloClub

2007 JAN–FEB Straight on ‘Til Friday

In 2006, the Northwest Hawaiian Islands made history as the world’s first marine national monument. Soon after, members of the Hawaiian Outrigger Canoe Voyaging Society paddled to those seamounts, atolls and islets that were “so remote that they occupy a different time zone.” Jason Hilford tagged along, describing the journey in his “landlubber’s log.” The Northwest Hawaiian Islands lie 1,200 miles beyond Kaua‘i, “occupying about twothirds of Hawai‘i’s area (but only one-tenth of 1 percent of its total landmass),” Hilford recounted. “These tiny rocks and sandbanks barely piercing the surface, along with the surrounding waters, are home to 7,000 marine species and 14 million birds ... the nesting ground for 90 percent of the state’s green sea turtles” and exclusive breeding grounds for the endangered Hawaiian monk seal. “We’re in their hale [house],” said Kimokeo Kapahulehua, who conceived the society’s mission to circumnavigate all the Hawaiian Islands. “[We] are blessed with their permission to be here.”

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YEARS OF SHARING MAUI STORIES

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CELEBRATING 25 YEARS OF MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI

2008 MAR–APR The Elusive ‘Ua‘u

“Zooming through the darkness, the Hawaiian petrels return from sea,” wrote Shannon Wianecki. “Their weird and wonderful music fills the night sky.” Hawaiians named the bird ‘ua‘u, and considered their chicks a delicacy. Dogs, cats and mongooses feast on the ground-nesting ‘ua‘u, too. “Urban lighting poses additional hazards for the nocturnal birds,” Wianecki added. “Disoriented by bright lights, petrels end up stranded, often injured, on hotel grounds and ship decks. By 1967, predation and habitat loss had earned the ‘ua‘u one of the first spots on the Endangered Species List.” Wildlife biologist Fern Duvall and researcher Jay Penniman are among those working to reverse the decline of this bird that yips like a dog, burrows like a mole and keeps scientists up past their bedtime.

2009 JUL–AUG 50|50

“On August 21, 1959,” Jill Engledow wrote, “with bells ringing and fireworks exploding, the Territory of Hawai‘i became a state.” The 50th state, to be precise, and 50 years later, Engledow offered a nostalgic look at Maui on the brink of statehood. Her text and the archival photos she collected explored Maui’s plantation past, the “Dream City” of Kahului that gave workers the chance to own their own homes, and the exodus of young people seeking jobs in far-flung places as plantations mechanized. “Tourism seemed the best answer to Maui’s economic problems,” noted Engledow. “Statehood brought Hawai‘i to the nation’s attention just as the first jet flights arrived in the Islands ... The boom was about to begin.”

2010 MAY–JUN Maui’s Night Sky

Paul Wood’s evocative prose was a stellar match for images taken by Wally Pacholka, one of America’s most acclaimed astro-photographers. Page after page, Pacholka opened our eyes to the heavens above Haleakalā’s summit, as Wood contemplated their mystery and the unexpected ways they interweave with the Islands’ history and culture. “Far right, above the crater’s rim, stands the Southern Cross — four stars in a kite shape — pointing directly to the South Pole,” Wood wrote. “When the distance between the top and bottom stars was the same as the distance between the bottom star and the horizon, [Polynesian navigators] knew they had reached Hawai‘i’s latitude. They would have then witnessed Maui’s fishhook — the tail of Scorpio — apparently pulling the islands out of the sea.”

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“ It was too hard to choose just a few of our favorites from the many stories we’ve shared over the years. Here are some of our runners-up for you to enjoy. Read them in full at MauiMagazine.net/25years.

4.64 Ship D

An Eye for an Icon (Jul-Aug 2006)

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The Feather Lei (Nov-Dec 2009)

Aloha, Pine (Mar-Apr 2010)

And explore 10 years of archived Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine stories! Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May–Jun 2021

Staying Power

In celebration of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s 25th anniversary, we are honoring beloved local businesses throughout 2021. These four have stood the test of time to become Maui institutions.

THE PIONEER INN Est. 1901 What do Jack London, Frank Sinatra and Katharine Hepburn have in common? Apart from being American icons, all three were once overnight guests at The Pioneer Inn. Built in 1901, the Pioneer Inn is the oldest hotel on Maui and the longest continuously operating hotel in Hawai‘i. The twostory plantation-style establishment overlooks Lahaina Harbor in the Lahaina Historic District. It became affiliated with Best Western Hotels & Resorts in 1997, and in 2016 was inducted into the Historic Hotels of America program as part of the National Trust for Historic Preservation. Over the decades, many luminaries have stayed or dined there, including Spencer Tracy, Mark Twain, Jerry Lewis, Peter Fonda, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Sun Yat-sen. The Inn was immortalized on screen in the 1961 film The Devil at 4 O’Clock, and also has been featured in episodes of Hawaii Five-0, Baywatch, Hawaiian Eye and Adventures in Paradise. A long history also means lots of tall tales and legends. One of the more popular ones is that a horse — yes, a horse — was once kicked out of the bar for unruly behavior. There’s also a rumor that the man who built

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the hotel, a Canadian police officer named George Freeland, initially came to Maui in hot pursuit of a wanted fugitive. Freeland never caught him, apparently, but instead fell in love with the Island and decided to stay. But Freeland wasn’t the only one reluctant to leave: Hotel staff recently discovered that a crab, whom they affectionately named Louie, had been happily residing under the floorboards of the bar. Jim Lennon, coproprietor of the Inn with wife Becky, scooped him up and carried him to the ocean, but Louie came skittering back into the bar just a few hours later. Step inside, and you’re surrounded by turn-of-thecentury architectural details and the decor whispers tales of sea and sailing. The Inn also has plenty of quirky charm, including Alex, the wisecracking house parrot, and a life-size wooden sculpture of a sea captain at the front entrance. But perhaps more remarkable than any fable or Hollywood fame is the fact that the Pioneer Inn has never closed — not once in its 120-year history. Even during the pandemic, its doors remained open, despite all the rooms being vacant, and the reasons for that were twofold. “First, to retain as much

COURTESY OF THE BEST WESTERN PIONEER INN

Story by Sarah Ruppenthal

ISLAND BUSINESS

TOP (3): MAUI HISTORICAL SOCIETY; LOWER RIGHT: COURTESY OF BECKY LENNON

Above, left: Dirt roads encircle the Pioneer Inn, seen here in 1905; the Lahaina Courthouse sits in the background. Above: By the 1960s, paved parking replaced the dirt roads; today giant planters line the pedestrian walkways. Left: The harbor side of the Inn in the 1950s. Below: Jim and Becky Lennon address party guests from the gazebo at the Pioneer Inn’s 100-year celebration in 2001.

During the 20th century, the ornate column finials were removed, but were replaced when the Lennons took over and remodeled the hotel circa 1993.

staff as we could justify, and second, to protect and preserve an iconic property in a very public location,” says Becky Lennon. In 1982, Howard Lennon (Jim’s father) acquired the master lease for the Inn and worked diligently to renovate and modernize it without compromising its historic integrity. The Lennons took the reins in 1998 and have since maintained the property, which is a near-constant endeavor, given that the Inn is more than 100 years old. Regardless of its age, the hotel meets modernday standards, and all 40 rooms have amenities such as complimentary WiFi, flat-screen televisions, coffee makers and mini fridges. And in 2020, the Lennons brought in Lee Anne Wong as executive chef of Papa‘aina, formerly the Pioneer Inn Grill and Bar (and before that the Old Whalers Grog Shop). If her name sounds familiar, here’s a hint: Wong was a fan favorite on Bravo’s Top Chef series and on the Food Network’s Iron Chef America. (Wong is also

featured in this issue’s “Chef’s Kitchen” on page 70.) A lot has changed in the last 120 years, but one thing remains constant at the Pioneer Inn: “We will always preserve the history and hospitality of plantation-era Hawai‘i while updating with modern amenities for today’s travelers,” say the Lennons. The Best Western Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina | 808.661.3636 | PioneerInnMaui.com | IG/FB @pioneerinnmaui Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2021

Inset: Mama’s sign on Hāna Highway as it looks today. When the Christensons first opened Mama’s, there was no place for signage on the highway. Instead, they parked their company van with Mama’s logo on the side of the road. Above: Mama’s as seen from the beach. Right: Doris and Floyd Christenson pose with an antique wagon emblazoned with the restaurant’s name.

MAMA’S FISH HOUSE RESTAURANT & INN Est. 1973 After a four-year-long sailing adventure through the South Pacific, the Christenson family landed on Maui in 1964. Nine years later, they opened a restaurant on a stunning beachfront location in Pā‘ia. Even though steakhouses were very popular at the time, the Christensons wanted everyone to know that they served fresh, locally caught fish, and named their restaurant Mama’s Fish House in honor of Mrs. Christenson’s nickname, Mama Doris. Since the beginning, Mama’s Fish House has worked closely with generations of local fishermen to buy their freshly-caught fish, such as mahi mahi, ono, ‘ōpakapaka (Hawaiian snapper), ‘ahi and moi (Pacific threadfin). The fishermen bring their catch directly to the restaurant, where it is processed and served within 24 hours. The daily menu lists the name of the angler next to their catch and where they reeled it in. Mama’s myriad accolades include 60 Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi ‘Aipono Awards, (the most of any Maui restaurant), and a semifinalist nomination for the most Outstanding Restaurant in America from the James Beard Foundation. Mama’s also earned Tripadvisor’s Travelers’ Choice Best of the Best award in 2020, as well as a spot on their 2019 list of the top 10 fine-dining restaurants in the US. Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Place, Pā‘ia |808.579.8488 | MamasFishHouse.com | IG/FB @MamasFishHouse

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TOP & BOTTOM: COURTESY OF MAMA’S FISH HOUSE RESTAURANT & INN; MIDDLE: TONY NOVAK-CLIFFORD

ISLAND BUSINESS

MAUI MALL Est. 1971 Where can you catch a flick, grab a bite, get a mani/pedi and load up on organic produce — all in one place? The Maui Mall. In 1970, Maui residents waited eagerly for the three-phase construction to be completed, and at long last, Longs Drugs was the first to open its doors in 1971. Today, Maui Mall is home to an assortment of retail shops, eateries and services, including Whole Foods Market, T.J. Maxx and the twelve-screen Regal Maui Mall Megaplex, Maui’s largest movie theater. Located in the heart of Kahului right across from the harbor and five minutes from the airport, the open-air shopping center is a community hub that routinely hosts live events, including hula shows, Chinese New Year celebrations, and Zumba and yoga classes.

TOP: COURTESY OF CERAMIC TILE PLUS; BOTTOM (2): COURTESY OF MAUI MALL

Maui Mall, 70 East Ka‘ahumanu Avenue, Kahului | 808.877.8952 | MauiMall.com | IG @mauimall | FB @MauiMallVillage

CERAMIC TILE PLUS & EXCLUSIVELY YOURS Est. 1977 In the late 1970s, construction was booming in Hawai‘i, so James Doran Jr. moved his family from Massachusetts to Maui and opened Ceramic Tile Plus. Doran had a knack for staying ahead of the curve, and his was the first business in the state to import prefabricated granite countertops. Doran Jr. passed away in 2017, but his eldest son, James Doran III, carries on his father’s legacy. Over the years, Ceramic Tile Plus and its sister company, Exclusively Yours, have grown from two employees to 31, and the 10,000-square-foot Kahului showroom houses a vast selection of decorative tiles, stone slabs and wood cabinetry. The Dorans pride themselves on treating every employee and customer like family

and support causes such as the Hawai‘i Animal Rescue Foundation, Habitat for Humanity, Maui Food Bank and Ka Lima O Maui. The company also donates their parking lot and the water on Saturdays to host car wash fundraisers for local youth groups and nonprofits. At the end of the day, the Dorans say, “It’s all about giving back.” Ceramic Tile Plus & Exclusively Yours, 25 Kahului Beach Rd., Kahului | 808.871.7595 | CeramicTilePlus.com | IG @ceramictileplus | FB @Ceramic-Tile-Plus Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2021

sand

the microscopic marvel of

STORY BY JUDY EDWARDS

PHOTOGR APHY BY BOB BANGERTER

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MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA

Sand. The word settles on your mind. You can feel the weight of it, the drift. The way it yields underfoot and dances with the wind. You think sand is going to be simple, but here on Maui it is anything but. Not bland, our sand.

BLACK SAND, WAI‘ĀNAPANAPA Like glitter left in the wake of a volcanic afterparty, black sand lies around being glamorous. This lava sand is black, thanks to the presence of manganese compounds, but that seems such a pedestrian thing to say. Black sand comes to be in two ways. The fast way is currently Big Island specific: 2,000-degree lava flows languidly into a 75-degree ocean and explodes in sprays of brilliant black glass. The dazzling beaches at the base of Kīlauea’s lava flows look like miles of really dark, shimmering ground coffee. At the particulate level, however, it’s all ragged edges and blades and is a terribly inhospitable place to live if you are, say, a tiny crab. Black sand is also a fabulous heat retainer, guaranteed to bake your feet at noon. The second way black sand comes to be is very slow indeed: Take one cooled, hardened lava flow, beat it relentlessly with ocean waves until little bits fracture off. Roll the bits about in the surf for ages until the edges surrender. This kind of sand comprises the beaches around Wai‘ānapanapa State Park; it’s fatter and softer than the aforementioned fast-made sand, and comes in a wider range of sizes. Some bits are sugar-fine, some are plump pebbles — heavy and slow. Early Hawaiians collected the latter to make flooring for dwellings. Upon a good, thick layer of water-worn cobbles, one could lay woven mats and beaten lengths of kapa (barkcloth). Reclining, one could hear the ocean caressing the black sands outside, patiently sorting the grains by size.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2021

RED SAND, KAIHALULU Would you ever expect sand to be red? Red like your blood is red? The first time I saw it, I didn’t, either. “Red Sand Beach,” my friends said, opening their arms wide as if delivering unto me the varied gems and precious secrets of Hāna. In an older tongue, Red Sand Beach is called kai halulu — roaring sea. And although I do not remember it roaring that first day, I do remember a sort of hum, a caul of sound that seemed part of the haze of light, and a feeling of being outside of time. No matter how many times I go, when I round that corner and face the impossible color of Kaihalulu, I am adrift on that time stream. Queen Ka‘ahumanu was born here in

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Hāna. No shrinking violet that one, Kamehameha’s favorite wife. By all accounts a temptress, and what my British friend would refer to as a “saucebox,” she was smart and quick-minded. When Kamehameha died, she ruled through his son, Liholiho, a young man unprepared for the force that was Ka‘ahumanu. Of course she was born somewhere stunning, somewhere that calls to mind an elemental force of life. A red sand beach; yes, that fits this queen perfectly. But why is it red? For the same reason that so many of Hāna’s corrugated tin roofs are red: Iron meets water and burns in slow motion. Oxidation. Rust. Yes, but sand? Hawaiian lava wells up from under the earth’s mantle, burning through to the air.

That mantle, the crust of our brilliant blue ball, is a hodgepodge of chemistries — soil and rock mixed, dragged under and lifted up, graded by glaciers and kneaded down by the relentless ocean. The deeper the source of the lava, the more iron it contains — and our Hawaiian lavas surge and seep from deep, deep, deep. The Hawaiian Islands rust as they age. Some places, like Kaihalulu, are ancient, iron-rich cinder cones with a porous structure. Water drains through them and helps turn the sand red by oxidizing and dissolving it off the top, down the sides and seaward. The waves happily take over from there and rub it back and forth until the edges soften into lovely red beads. Against which, if I say so myself, the devastating blue of ocean looks fantastic.

MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2021

WHITE SAND, BALDWIN BEACH Sprawl upon one of Maui’s white-sand beaches with your nose to the dune, and you may have a Horton Hears a Who revelation. The more closely you look, the more the sands open kaleidoscopically to your eyes. Calcium carbonate seashells, casings and carapaces; coral-reef fragments and sprigs of hard, calcareous algae — sifting at the whim of swells and tides and banking against our shores, looking innocently homogenous at a distance of a few feet. Peering intently, however, you realize that you are not on a uniform pile of white, but rather that you lie prone on amber globules, tiny emeralds, bits of red and black rock, crumbles of crimson crab, lavender urchin spikes and a host of white organic

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architecture snapped off the living city of the reef. It’s this calcium that helps the “white” sand to be the coolest — reflective, light and porous. On the continent, white sand is comprised of rock shavings, much of it carried to the coasts by rivers. Under a microscope it is a lovely amalgam of microgems, glitzy quartz and mineral particles. In Hawai‘i, however, our sands sing of the sea, offering up as evidence the candy-cane twist of a sea snail’s home, the royal purple nubbins of a lobster’s legs, little fragments of once-proud coral heads, white as can be and crinkled, porous, striated, laddered, or rubbed as perfectly round as your inquisitive eyes. This story originally appeared in our May–Jun 2012 issue.

MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA

ENGRAINED IN THE CULTURE “As island people, we are intimately connected to the sea,” says Hōkūlani Holt, kumu hula and Hawaiian cultural practitioner. “Therefore, we are connected also to coral and sand. There is a term that denotes one’s connection to a place: one hānau, or ‘birth sands.’ It is where we see our birth and where we see our bones; thus, it is home.”

A microscopic image of the sand at Baldwin Beach, photographed by Dr. Gary Greenberg. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2021

the flight of the felix

Have you ever wanted to fly? Paragliding is about as close as you can get without growing feathers.

STORY BY FELIX SUNNY D’SOUZA

For as long as I can remember, I have wanted to fly. Yes, I was that kid — jumping out of trees, hoping that somehow, mid-leap, I would magically take flight. After college I threw myself out of a perfectly good airplane for a skydiving experience and loved the feeling of the wind beating my face and body as I plummeted toward the green Pennsylvania hills. Fast-forward 10 years and my husband, William, and I live on Maui. During a visit to Kula Country Farms, I noticed colorful arcs floating in the sky — paragliders skimming down the face of Haleakalā. My urge to fly was reanimated,

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIEKO HORIKOSHI

ADVENTURE

It was thrilling to fly over Maui and get a bird’s-eye view of Mā‘alaea, Kīhei and the entire Central Valley.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2021

ADVENTURE

Above: Strategically placed flags helped us see the direction of the wind when preparing for takeoff. Left: I kicked back and glided comfortably over Kaonoulu Ranch toward the landing site straight ahead. But I didn’t want my flight to end! Opposite: Blue skies, sunshine and reliable winds are the ideal elements for paragliding.

William and I left West Maui early — apparently the wind is best in the morning — and drove to the orientation site at Kaonoulu Ranch. The weather was gorgeous, and we could see the crags of the West Maui mountain, the reliably rotating windmills above Mā‘alaea Harbor and the hazy outline of Lāna‘i in the distance. I stepped out of the car and was immediately glad to have brought a jacket; Upcountry is decidedly cooler than Honokōwai, and we zipped up against the 50-degree breeze. We met up with our photographer, Mieko Horikoshi, who would be documenting our adventure, then took stock of our fellow fliers. There were quite a few, including a visiting couple who actually brought their own gear. All were experienced paragliders, including my husband, who had glided years before, which meant I was the only rookie. And being the only rookie, I had a million questions: What do we do to take off? How far do we have to run? Do we jump off a cliff? What if the wind doesn’t cooperate? Binder greeted us and checked us in, and shortly thereafter addressed the group to discuss both the thrills and the dangers of paragliding. I felt a shiver of nerves, but Binder forged ahead with a litany of instructions which I distilled down to this: Run as fast as you can to take off, don’t lean back and keep running, even as you begin to fly. Sounded simple enough.

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BOTTOM: FELIX D’SOUZA

and after a little research I found Proflyght Paragliding. Dexter Binder, owner of Proflyght, has been in business for more than 20 years. He oversees 60 local pilots and instructors and organizes about 320 flights per year here on Maui. Proflyght also has a perfect safety record, so I had no doubt they would be the right company to take me safely on my next adventure.

I would be flying tandem with my pilot, Paul Franco, a veteran glider of 21 years with more than 8,000 flights to his name. Franco was welcoming and talkative, and because of his experience (and the fact that he stood quite a bit taller than myself), I felt a surge of confidence. As I was signing my waiver, one of the visiting gliders said: “You’re going to love it, and it’s quite easy to get hooked!” We got in a van and drove up Haleakalā, winding through pastures and stands of pine trees until we reached our destination some 6,000 feet above the sea. The visiting couple played music on a portable speaker, and as the Beach Boys discussed the merits of “California Girls,” I watched the crew lay out our gear. They spread out the paragliding wings on the ground to look them over, ensuring, I imagined (and hoped), that they were free of holes. I put on a harness and a helmet and watched them untangle a thatch of thin cables which would connect us via harness to a wing. Horikoshi made her way to a lookout point from which she could capture images of us midflight, and Franco began the business of connecting us together. “Paragliding is similar to finding the perfect wave in surfing,” he said, then he told me to close my eyes and feel for the breeze. I did, and noticed that the wind came in cycles, similar indeed to waves, and that it alternated between wafting uphill and directly toward us to blowing downslope at our backs. “We need to wait until the wind is strongest coming upward,” said Franco as I opened my eyes. “This will give us the lift to take off.” Madonna told us all to “Vogue” as Franco finalized our tandem pairing; then it was time for me to fly. “Focus on that flag,” said Franco, indicating a small stick with a limp stripe of pink a few

Run as fast as you can to take , off, don t lean back and keep running, even as you begin to fly. Sounded simple enough. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2021

ADVENTURE

We turned toward Pā‘ia and Kahului and could see Kula Botanical Gardens and O‘o Farm far below.

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RIGHT: FELIX D’SOUZA

yards downhill. “Run when I finish the countdown.” “What if I run into the flag?” I asked; it really wasn’t that far away. “Then just go ahead and run over it,” said Franco just as a gust of wind whisked up the hillside. He began his countdown, and three, two, one … run! Together we ran and ran and ran — and got nowhere fast. “Keep running!” said Franco, and so I did as hard as I could. We moved only a couple of feet, but our efforts helped to lift the paragliding wing, and as it rose it also pulled us backward. Before I knew it, we were in the sky, soaring well above that tiny pink flag. Franco said I could sit back; I did and found that the harness had morphed into a makeshift seat. He steered us around the wispy clouds that shared our altitude, controlling our direction and speed with two handles that descended from either side of the wing. I relaxed and looked around. Molokini, Kīhei and Kahului were so impossibly small from up here. Pacific whitecaps combed toward both sides of the Island in endless rows, and Haleakalā towered behind, stoic and majestic all at once. Franco pointed out a few sights, then he asked: “Do you like rollercoasters?” I answered in the affirmative and with a few swift maneuvers, he took us into a sharp turn, then a steep dive — which, to my delight, was very similar to an amusement-park coaster. We leveled out and flew toward Horikoshi for a photo op. I couldn’t see her from my vantage, so I smiled for several minutes, emoji-like, to ensure she captured my glee. Then, all too soon, it was time to land. Franco told me to lean forward and to walk when we hit the ground. Suddenly we were touching down on a small patch of grass in front of Ali‘i Kula Lavender. My return to earth was far from graceful, perhaps because I was reluctant to again be grounded. But Franco disconnected us and said that I did well. “Now you’ll know what to do on your next flight,” he said. And he was right; I would absolutely be coming back. As my fellow flier said, it’s quite easy to get hooked.

Above: A safe landing in front of Ali‘i Kula Lavender. Below: My pilot, Paul Franco, ensured I was securely fastened to him and to the wing, and we both enjoyed our ride through the clear blue skies.

Proflyght Paragliding, 1100 Waipoli Rd., Kula | paraglidemaui.com | 808.874.5433 Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2021

HAWAIIAN SOUL

Casting a net in Kū‘au

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Since ancient times, Hawaiians have used this handwoven tool to gather an ocean harvest. For one Maui fisherman, it is still a way of life and a sense of identity. Story by Teya Penniman

BOB BANGERTER

Photography by Bob Bangerter & Ryan Siphers

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

HAWAIIAN SOUL

“Every day I weave. I weave my nets in the morning. At night I weave my nets. My nets is my love.” James Sagawinit is at his kitchen table in one of the two houses he built in Ha‘ikū, but everything about him speaks of the sea. His hair sweeps back from the sides of his face like the crest of a wave blown by offshore winds. His gaze is distant, not in this room, scanning the horizon for where to place his net, find his fish. His voice is slow and measured, like a low, unhurried swell telling an ancient, recurring story.

I ha‘aheo no ka lawai‘a i ka lako i ka ‘upena. The fisherman may well be proud when well supplied with nets. Ka po‘e kahiko, the old Hawaiians, had an intimate knowledge of the haunts and behaviors of their favored fish and employed a variety of net types and strategies to catch them. Inshore, a single man could handle a scoop net, while a deep-water expedition might require a flotilla of twenty canoes with dozens of helpers. Some forays called for “matured-nose” or experienced fishermen. Many canoes would paddle to the fishing grounds, where the lead fisherman spat chewed kukui nut onto the water to calm and clear the surface. He would lower a blackened hardwood stick rubbed with coconut meat, kukui-nut oil and other strong-scented materials. After many curious fish gathered to nibble the tasty stick, he would signal to the canoes to drop the large net; other men would slip into the water to corral the fish. In shallow-water net fishing, the technique called for many people to pa‘ipa‘i, or slap the water to chase the fishes. In kākā uhu fishing, a line tied through the gill opening and mouth of a live uhu (parrotfish) turned it into a seductive decoy. While keeping his canoe pointed into the wind, the fisherman lowered his hapless siren into the water to entice other uhu. When

he saw that his trickery was working, he carefully positioned the dip net, a rectangular piece of mesh tied to arched ends of two crossed sticks suspended from a line. When the net was pulled up quickly, the weight of the catch formed a bag around the unsuspecting fish, and dinner was served. Regardless of the type of net, all who participated received a share of the catch, even the fisherman’s wife: “Over her chafed thighs the cords for the nets had been twisted,” wrote Samuel Kamakau in 1869. Traditionally, fishing skills passed from grandfather to grandson and while the custom had waned by the time of Sagawinit’s youth, he still found a mentor — an old man whose sons weren’t interested in fishing. After school, the two would walk from Sagawinit’s home to the Pa‘uwela Lighthouse, some 2.5 miles distant, and wouldn’t return until night. While Sagawinit learned fishing techniques from this neighbor, his godfather taught him how to make nets. Even on weekends he was dedicated to his art, and while his brothers and sisters headed to the old Ha‘ikū theater, “I just stayed home and learned how to weave,” he says. Sagawinit’s craft still occupies much of the family home. A lobster trap, his own design, dangles from the ceiling. A hanging net drapes the entry wall, dried and decorative sea creatures stuck in its mesh. A throw net in process dominates a corner of the living room.

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Above right: A two-handled scoop net. Below, left to right: Sagawinit starts a net with thirty-six loops. In old Hawai‘i, mesh size was measured by the number of fingers that could be inserted into the opening; mesh gauges of turtle shell, ivory, bone or wood helped keep the size consistent. Sagawinit finishes a throw net by adding lead weights. Net-making is a full-body endeavor; wrapping the net around a foot or toe keeps proper tension on the line.

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RYAN SIPHERS

Materials have changed, but the painstaking techniques remain the same. James Sagawinit forms his net one mesh and one row at a time, his homemade shuttle weaving an intricate web from a single strand of filament.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

Far left, top to bottom: A Hawaiian fisherman with a scoop net in 1925. When the community “pulls net” together, all share in the bounty. Nets were a source of wealth which was earned over many tedious hours of making and mending. Above and left: Olonā grows on most of the Hawaiian Islands, but fishermen especially prize plants from Maui and Moloka‘i for the fine cordage they produce. Below: A scoop net with extended rod frame and crossbar.

Sagawinit fashions most of his own tools, but uses modern materials such as aluminum for shuttles and recycled lead for weights. The monofilament line he employs for the mesh is no doubt less expensive than the old standard, olonā.

Ua nīki‘i ‘ia i ke olonā o Honopū. Tied fast with the olonā cord of Honopū. The fiber of the olonā plant (Touchardia latifolia) ranks among the strongest in the natural world. It doesn’t kink or soak up water, and it is salt resistant; some fifty-year-old nets are still in excellent condition. Maui ethnobotanist Cathy Davenport studied olonā’s capacity to elongate against hau (Hibsicus tiliaceus) and coconut, two other trees whose fibers are used for cordage, and olonā outperformed both. “Cordage that can stretch will not break as readily,” says Davenport. “From royalty to fisherman, all greatly valued [olonā ]. [It is] soft and strong at the same time for the feather capes of royalty, yet stretching when wet just enough to counter the lunges of large fish caught by the fiber.” So favored was this plant, Hawaiians once venerated it as a lesser deity. Never abundant, the unassuming shrub grows sparingly in deep, cool, moist places, and, like taro, its patches were given individual names and were passed from father to son. In the 1870s, King Kalākaua collected

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LEFT: HAWAI‘I STATE ARCHIVES / TOP RIGHT: FOREST & KIM STARR

A net might take him weeks to complete and could fetch $600; yet, he is as likely to give it away to fundraisers as to sell it.

HAWAIIAN SOUL

LEFT: HAWAI‘I STATE ARCHIVES / RIGHT: RYAN SIPHERS

Top right: A dip net. Above: A scoop net could be operated solo for a family’s needs, but big hauls required large nets and many hands. Top right: Dip net. Right: Sagawinit stands among rows of his throw nets. Nets define the man and his space.

taxes in the form of olonā and sold it at high prices to Swiss climbers. And according to legend, Alapa‘i, the ruling chief of Hawai‘i Island, ordered the infant Kamehameha killed to avert a prophecy that the child would one day usurp his rule. Kamehameha was secreted to the mountains, where he was suckled by a woman whose daily task was to scrape olonā’s fleshy pulp from its outer bark. To avoid suspicion that might arise from nursing two newborns, she hid her own child in a huge pile of olonā fibers, thereby helping to secure the destiny of Hawai‘i’s first king. According to Davenport, “Olonā needs cold-running streams and rivulets where its roots can ramble, but the streams have so little water in them now. The natural wonders of Hawai‘i are losing their unique habitat and becoming scarce. It’s very difficult to duplicate the environment that olonā needs to grow.” The old ways of net making required more than just the right materials and skill. Before a fisherman placed a new net in the water, he prepared a feast, with prayers to the gods or ‘aumakua (deified ancestors). As described by Kamakau, after such a feast the fisherman’s dreams would foretell the next day’s fortune: hopefully his dreams manifested canoes laden with fish. And after a successful harvest, the fisherman went first to the fishing shrine (ko‘a) and offered some of his catch to the ‘aumakua. Sagawinit maintains this tradition of sharing. “I don’t go out and sell my fish,” he says. “I’m more happy giving it to my children, family, friends.” A net might take him six to seven weeks to complete and could fetch $600; yet, he is as likely to it give away to fundraisers in Hāna or Ke‘anae as he is to sell it.

But Sagawinit does object to limitations placed on his historical gathering rights, an issue that engenders heated debate even amongst traditional practitioners. Today, monofilament line, powerboats, winches and longer, deeper nets than those used by ka po‘e kahiko help define a fisherman’s success. Current regulations specify mesh size, net length and depth, prohibit night fishing with lay nets, and establish quotas for certain species. The restrictions are designed to halt declining fish stocks and reduce unintended by-catch, but also appear to conflict with generational customs. Like olonā, the tough and resilient Sagawinit seems resolute. “I’m a shoreline fisherman,” he says. “My culture tells me that is who I am.” And like the once-revered plant, now made scarce by an altered environment, his world has changed, but his nets continue to tell an ancient story. Hawaiian sayings from ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings, by Mary Kawena Pukui This story originally appeared in the May-June 2014 issue. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2021

Husband-and-wife architects resurrect a vintage house once owned by the Catholic church.

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AT HOME

Story by heidi pool Photography by ryan siphers

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2021

AT HOME

If you close your eyes and imagine the quintessential beach house, the picture in your mind likely contains these elements: a neutral color palette punctuated with splashes of muted blues and greens, crisp white cabinetry and window frames, warm wood flooring complemented by bamboo window shades, and a spacious lānai from which to watch the sun set into a shimmering sea behind swaying palm trees. Transform that image into real life, and you have George Rixey and Randy Wagner’s beachfront home in Kīhei. When the couple purchased the property in 1996, the twobedroom, one-bathroom structure was essentially a teardown — “a total mess,” Wagner recalls. But as architects, she and Rixey could see the potential. “The sun was streaming through the windows, and we could see beyond the disarray that it really was a beautiful home,” says Wagner. “Plus, its architectural style reminded us of houses in

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the mid-Atlantic region where we both grew up. It had that East Coast ‘beachy’ feel that spoke to us on a personal level.” And the home came with an interesting past. “There was a Catholic church down the street,” says Rixey. “Built in 1935, this was one of three dwellings that housed church personnel. It’s the only one still standing, and it served as quarters for the nuns, who also took in orphans and widows. Because of its past, there’s a tremendous feeling of mana [divine power] in this house.” Rixey and Wagner lived in the house for nearly sixteen years, and raised two children there, before tackling a complete remodel. They made the place livable by patching all the holes in the walls, replacing the windows, retiling the bathroom, giving the kitchen a much-needed facelift and adding a bedroom loft for their son. After the kids were grown and on their own, the couple decided it was

BOTTOM ROW COURTESY RANDY WAGNER

Top: Rixey and Wagner’s home as it looks today. Above, from left: The rear of the house when the couple purchased it in 1996; the first renovation began by removing a portion of the roof to create a dormer for a bedroom loft; the project was completed in 1997.

Glass-door cabinets and crown molding preserve the home’s period feel.

A second-floor dormer was added during the first renovation to house the master bedroom, which features a carved wooden headboard whose design mirrors the ocean waves.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2021

AT HOME

Top: Just off the living room are two of the original bedrooms, each of which housed three Catholic nuns. A handmade Amish rocker provides an inviting vantage point from which to admire Rixey’s artwork above the built-in bookcase. Left: A staircase at the main entrance leads to a spacious lānai and a French-style front door. The shingled roof helps maintain the classic beachcottage vernacular.

time. “The house was shifting on its foundation, and there was extensive termite damage,” says Rixey. But what finally led them to remodel was their desire for an indoor laundry room. “This area floods fairly frequently,” Wagner says. “Our laundry area used to be under the house, and over a period of two years we had to replace our washer and dryer two times!” The renovation began in June of 2012, and at the time they estimated it would take six months. “We operate the cottage on our property as a vacation rental,” says Wagner. “We blocked out six months for ourselves and moved in.” But as the renovation stretched on, they became veritable vagabonds. The couple served as architects and general contractors throughout the project, and although they owned a cabin in Upcountry Maui, they didn’t relish a daily one-hour drive to or from the construction site. Instead, they moved into temporary housing twice more until the now-three-bedroom, three-bath house was finally finished in July of 2014. Why make the project DIY? “The craftsmanship

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AT HOME The wood dining table is an heirloom from Wagner’s family, and is more than 200 years old.

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AT HOME

Above: Views of the Pacific and Lāna‘i from the backyard. Right: White-oak flooring was inspired by beach homes the couple remember from growing up on the East Coast.

and intricacy that went into the remodel was too complicated to convey to someone else with drawings,” Rixey says. “We designed everything ourselves, down to the last centimeter,” adds Wagner. By accident, they met a family of skilled craftsmen who lived near their Upcountry cabin. “Their car broke down on our road and we couldn’t get out,” Wagner recalls. “When we discovered the three men had carpentry skills, we first had them do small jobs at our cabin. We ended up employing them for the entire remodel here in Kīhei.” During the early stages of the project, Rixey and Wagner realized the original house had been built to last. “One of the first things

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HOME LIFESTYLE DESIGN Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2021

AT HOME

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AT HOME Counter-clockwise from top: In the upstairs master bedroom, a desk opposite the bed is perfectly positioned for inspiring views. Wagner admired the ocean-inspired tiles and drawer pulls she used on an architectural project in Maryland so much that she installed them in their own master bath. A built-in bookcase holds an eclectic mix of memorabilia, from books on Eastern philosophy to a wooden surfer handmade by a Sumatran artisan. A collection of ocean treasures surround a hurricane lamp atop a koa wood base carved by a Maui craftsman.

we did was remove the old roof, and discovered that the underlying materials were of a quality you can’t find today," says Rixey. “The rafters were old-growth fir that’s lightweight but hard, and it was completely dry. You can’t buy lumber like that today, and we couldn’t bring ourselves to replace it. So we ran the wood through a planer, resurfaced it and reused it. We also recycled the original doors and the one-inch tongue and groove wherever we could.” They also added a second floor, which contains the master bedroom and bathroom, and two spacious closets. But before they could do so, the foundation needed shoring up. “The new foundation is a combination of concrete-block walls and posts,” says Rixey. Remodeling their house gave Rixey an opportunity to flex his builder muscles. “I grew up in the construction business and have been around it my whole life,” he says. “I love the smell of wood, and pounding nails with a hammer. It’s much more satisfying than using power tools.” “George had a hand in everything, from the framing, to the carpentry and built-ins,

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2021

AT HOME

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A glass bowl — whose design simulates the pounding surf — is festooned with seashells and bits of coral.

to the cabinetry,” adds Wagner. The one feature of the home that didn't need a complete remodel was the oceanfront concrete lānai — the only part of the house that hadn’t shifted over time. “It was basically holding the house in place,” Rixey says. He and Wagner enjoy drinking their morning tea out there while gazing at the ocean and looking for a migratory kōlea (Pacific golden plover) that has been visiting for years. “He hangs out at the edge of our property for months at a time,” says Wagner. “When he arrives in the fall, he’s all brown, and by the time he leaves, his feathers have taken on a tuxedo-like quality.” “When we first moved to Maui, we lived in Wailuku, then in Wailea,” says Wagner, but neither town felt like home. “I found this house while George was on a surf vacation in Sumatra. I picked him up at the airport, drove him past the property and said, ‘I think this feels like us.’” Being close to shops, restaurants and services has its perks, too. “We can walk or ride our bicycles to everything," says Wagner. “We could get by without a car if we wanted.” Rixey and Wagner stay in Kīhei most of the time, spending a day or two each week at their Upcountry cabin. “We have olive and fruit trees and a vegetable garden, so there’s always something to do,” Wagner says. “We truly have the best of both worlds — mountain and ocean.” This story originally appeared in our Jul–Aug 2015 issue.

Dining

RYAN SIPHERS

Breakfast at the Montage Kapalua Bay’s Cane & Canoe restaurant includes such delights as cinnamon roll French toast, avocado tartine on nine-grain bread, and lobster benedict with wasabi hollandaise (shown here).

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2021

Treated Above Chef Jon De Paz serves up a special dining experience at The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea.

MELIA LUCIDA

Story by Becky Speere

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DINING

the Treetops

DIANE HAYENS WOODBURN

Daily catch: seared onaga with heart of palm chimichurri and fried kale Opposite: Get a side order of stunning ocean views from your perch at The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea.

‘‘I

haven’t been here since Capische was in this location,” says Diane, my friend and publisher of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine. “It’s been years.” We sit at a table at The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea and marvel at the locale. The open-air venue sits high above Wailea, looking out over the treetops with a 180-degree view of the ocean, Kaho‘olawe and Lāna‘i. It’s the perfect place to watch the sunset — a fiery display of orange and gold. As dining editor, I’ve had the good fortune to eat here more than a few times over the years, and even though the chefs and menus have changed, I’ve never been disappointed. “Tonight’s dinner is being prepared by the new executive chef, Jon De Paz, who joined The Restaurant in July of last year,” I tell Diane. “He’s worked at what I consider to be some of the top restaurants in America, such as The French Laundry in Napa, Le Bec Fin in Philadelphia, Eleven Madison Park in New York and The Peacock Inn in New Jersey." Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2021

I’ve been wanting to eat here since De Paz arrived, and while perusing the prix fixe menu, I have an idea: I ask our server if the chef could choose for us instead. “Let me check and get back to you,” she says. “In the meantime, look over our great wine list.” “We should let the sommelier pair our wine with the food,” I suggest to Diane. She nods. “They’ll know the best pairing with De Paz’s food better than you or I would,” she says. The menu here changes (almost) daily, and tonight their list of fresh island fish includes onaga, ‘ahi, farm-raised Kona kanpachi, diver scallops and, my favorite, Kaua‘i shrimp. Our server returns with good news: the chef will gladly send out a special experience for us. Our first course is pickled red beets with marinated strawberries topped with a fluffy bavarois cream. The sommelier pairs this with an M. Chapoutier Viognier. With hints of peach and minerality, it is the perfect foil to the acidity of the dish. A whisper of quality olive oil and a dash of salt enhance the piquancy of the strawberries, and I savor each tender bite. I ask our server for a cabbage dish that is plated atop a bed of whipped tofu cream. Those of us who grew up in Hawai‘i ate plenty of cabbage, which was typically boiled to death and then served with canned corned beef or stir-fried with kalua pork. In my home we topped it with a generous squirt of ketchup and a hearty dash of Tabasco. But no ketchup is needed tonight: De Paz prepares the cabbage confit, braising it in duck fat until the leaves are tender and the edges are charred and caramelized to an almost bitter blackness. To round it out: a garnish of burnt juniper and carrot emulsion. Diane and I agree that this is one of the best cabbage dishes we have ever tasted. It actually reminds me of one I had at Senia on O‘ahu, the award-

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winning restaurant of chef Chris Kajioka, who currently serves as the culinary director here at The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea. My next course is ‘ahi crudo capped with a lacy tuile and served with dollops of black truffle and heart of palm purees. Diane’s goldenseared scallop arrives on a creamy bed of mushroom risotto with potato crumbs, and both dishes pair nicely with our 2017 Hubert Brochard Sancerre. “The French always get the wine right, and this is perfect with my scallop,” Diane says. The sommelier delivers a Truchard Winery Pinot Noir and a Melville Pinot Noir Private Label as our entrees arrive — mine a generous portion of seared onaga with heart of palm chimichurri and Diane’s a crispy Kona kanpachi with fried kale and hon-shimeji mushrooms. “It’s almost too pretty to eat!” says Diane. The juxtaposition of textures and flavors is captivating, and every bite is as gratifying as the last. For dessert I choose the chocolate hazelnut torte with toasted caramelized nuts, and Diane picks the gold-leaf-dappled pineapple upsidedown cake. And even though we are only two at the table, De Paz generously sends us a third dessert: a red wine-poached pear with crunchy kataifi and mascarpone cream. This decadence plants an enthusiastic exclamation point on our evening. Dinner was as much a visual as it was a gastronomic experience, with foods of every color of the rainbow and an alchemy of flavors and textures — the perfect meal. We exit, sated and genuinely gratified. “Well, I’ll be back sooner than a few years!” remarks Diane. “De Paz is quite the talented and innovative chef.” I couldn’t agree more, and smile in anticipation of my next visit to The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea. The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea | (808) 8792224 | IG @therestauranthw | FB @therestaurantathotelwailea

STEPHANIE RUSSO

Our gastronomic delights were deserving of the finest wine pairings.

DIANE HAYNES WOODBURN

DINING

Left to right, from top row: 1. Salt-roasted beets with strawberry and beet bavarois and strawberries marinated in extra-virgin olive oil, lime zest and fleur de sel 2. ‘Ahi crudo with truffle puree, heart of palm puree, pickled mushrooms and lace tuile with furikake 3. Confit cabbage over whipped tofu with burnt juniper and carrot emulsion 4. Crispy Kona kanpachi with chimichurri porridge and glazed hon-shemji mushrooms 5. Seared scallop with mushroom risotto and potato crumbs 6. Daily catch: seared onaga with heart of palm chimichurri and fried kale 7. Chocolate hazelnut torte with toasted caramelized nuts 8. Red wine-poached pear with crunchy kataifi and mascarpone cream 9. Gold-leaf-dappled pineapple upside-down cake

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2021

CHEF’S KITCHEN Top: Try this exclusive recipe for Kanpachi & Eggs from chef Lee Anne Wong at home, or better yet, visit Papa‘aina and order the original. Below: Brunch tests your willpower with a litany of tasty, comforting options.

Food All Day Wong Whenever I would visit O‘ahu, Koko Head Café was at the top of my dining itinerary — a tiny venue where chef and partner Lee Anne Wong always offered a daring menu bursting with bold and exciting flavors. So when I discovered she was opening Papa‘aina at the Pioneer Inn on Maui in late 2019, I was overjoyed. Papa‘aina means table, and here Wong offers a spread that will delight any and every appetite. “[The restaurant’s menu] is the amalgamation of all the food journeys I’ve had throughout my career,” says Wong. However, her path almost didn’t include cooking at all: Wong’s original passion was fashion and she studied design at the Fashion Institute of Technology. But once she started cooking for her friends, she changed tack. Wong graduated from the French Culinary Institute and started working with gastronomic greats such as Marcus Samuelsson and Jean-Georges Vongerichten in New York. She

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appeared as a “cheftestant” on season 1 of Bravo’s Top Chef series and afterward was hired by Bravo as the supervising culinary producer on both Top Chef and Top Chef Masters. She even published a cookbook called Dumplings All Day Wong (Page Street Publishing, 2014). Wong moved from New York to Honolulu to open Koko Head Café, and then to Maui to open Papa‘aina. When asked if she misses the bustling city lifestyle, she says, “Lyle and I wanted space to raise our son, Rye, and we decided that [Maui] would be the place.” I’ve kept up with Wong since she opened Papa‘aina, following her menu changes and drooling over her Casablanca Friday Nights — special curated menus posted online and priced to sell. When you visit, expect a spirited and seductive selection of dishes that traverse the world in flavor, from Morocco to China to south of the equator. So let your hair down, relax and celebrate food and life at Wong’s Papa‘aina.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF PAPA‘AINA

At Papa‘aina, chef Lee Anne Wong delights every appetite. Story by Becky Speere

“My first trip to Hawai‘i was when I filmed the season 2 finale of Top Chef at Waikoloa [on the Island of Hawai‘i]. I was captivated by the beauty of the Islands and took a tour of the Hawaiian Kanpachi Farm on the Kona coast. Subsequently, I have been using Hawaiian kanpachi in my restaurants and at events both here and back home in New York. Now that I live on Maui, Kanpachi & Eggs is regularly featured on the Papa‘aina menu. It’s an unusual, surprising dish with different textures and temperatures. The key: Making sure the fish is ice-cold right before slicing and plating!” — Lee Anne Wong

Kanpachi & Eggs Makes 1 Serving INGREDIENTS 1 slice of baguette, 4 inches long, ¼-inch thick 1 teaspoon butter 1 egg, lightly beaten salt and pepper, to taste 1 teaspoon sour cream 6 slices kanpachi sashimi shoyu-lime butter (See recipe.) DIRECTIONS Preheat oven to 325 F. Place dry baguette slice on a baking sheet and bake until golden. Set aside. Heat a small nonstick pan over medium-high. Add butter and swirl to coat. Add egg and season with salt and pepper (to taste). Scramble quickly, and as egg begins to set and is still slightly wet, remove pan from heat. Add sour cream and mix well. Spoon egg mixture onto toast. Layer kanpachi over eggs and drizzle with warm shoyu-lime butter. Garnish with

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rice crackers and fresh herbs, such as scallions, shiso or cilantro. SHOYU-LIME BUTTER Makes 1¾ cups INGREDIENTS 1 egg yolk ¼ cup shoyu (soy sauce) ¼ cup fresh lime juice 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 3 tablespoons Hawaiian honey 1 cup butter, melted and hot ½ teaspoon cornstarch pinch each salt and white pepper 1 finger (aka “caviar”) lime, peeled, caviar removed DIRECTIONS Add all ingredients except lime caviar to a blender and blend on high until smooth and emulsified. Combine 2 to 3 tablespoons shoyulime butter with a small amount of finger-lime caviar and spoon over fish. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2021

MIXOLOGY

Birds of a Feather The Birdcage Bar and Lounge at Hotel Wailea

Story by Becky Speere

TRAVIS ROWAN

Looking for the perfect place to pop the question? Or perhaps you’re just yearning for a great whisky-based cocktail, or a mocktail created with locally grown tropical fruits. No matter what your druthers, the Birdcage Bar and Lounge at Hotel Wailea can deliver. Hotel Wailea is Maui’s only adults-only locale — and Hawai‘i’s only Relais & Châteaux hotel. This unique circular lounge is classic and elegant, with a newly designed bar and fun bird’s-feet furniture. This recipe, courtesy of the Birdcage, calls for award-winning Suntory Whisky, and all but guarantees she — o r he! — will say yes!

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Fly by Night

Makes 1 cocktail

CHRISTY STESKY

1 ounce Suntory Toki Whisky 1 ounce Lo Fi Gentian Amaro ½ ounce Carpano Antica Vermouth ½ ounce Gonzales Byass Oloroso Sherry

Add all ingredients to a shaker cup and stir. Serve over ice and garnish with an orange twist.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2021

Dining Guide B=Breakfast BR=Brunch L=Lunch H=Happy Hour D=Dinner N=Dinner past 9 p.m. R=Reservation recommended $=Average entrée under $15 $$=Under $25 $$$=Under $40 $$$$=$40+ =‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2020

WEST SIDE A‘A ROOTS Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Ste. 3, Nāpili, 298-2499 Vegan cuisine made with the freshest Maui produce. Try the açai bowl, soba bowl with peanut sauce, or bagel sandwich with hummus, avo and veggies. International. B, L, $ ALALOA LOUNGE Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200 Creative farm-to-table cocktails, mocktails and an exciting selection of savory dishes from the menu, such as huli huli chicken, sushi and stone-oven pizza. International. D, $–$$ AMIGO’S 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210 Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, flautas and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D, $ THE BANYAN TREE The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096 Chef Bella Toland’s interpretation of her grandmother’s pancit palabok is a Filipino noodle dish full of shrimp and calamari, finished with a lobster stock reduction in annatto ginger garlic shrimp sauce and topped with herbs, chicharron and garlic. Pacific Rim. D, $$–$$$$ BREAKWALL SHAVE ICE COMPANY The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., #104, Lahaina, 661-4900 Grown-up shave ice? You bet! Cool off with one of the best snow cones on Maui and discover your favorite flavor. Treats. $ CANE & CANOE Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 6626681 Try the avocado toast and mimosas for breakfast and prime select steaks with horseradish créme fraiche for dinner. Lunch at the Hāna Hou Bar includes Wagyu bacon-cheddar burgers and vegetarian selections. Yum! Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D, $$$–$$$$ CAPTAIN JACK’S ISLAND GRILL The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 672 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0988 Choices include Sirens’ shrimp, Black Bart’s BBQ chicken salad and Black Beard’s Philly cheesesteak. American. L, D, $–$$ CHEESEBURGER IN PARADISE 811 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4855. Wake up to oceanfront views as you sip a cuppa joe and dig into a luscious breakfast. For lunch, try the poke, wings, onion rings, or a hefty cheeseburger. For dinner, go for Aloha Fish and Fries. B, L, D, International. $–$$ CHOICE HEALTH BAR 1087 Limahana Pl., #1A, Lahaina, 661-7711; Second West Maui location: Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali. All juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are made with fresh ingredients. Daily specials. American. B, L, $

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CLIFF DIVE GRILL Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031 Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish tacos to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $–$$ THE COFFEE STORE Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 669-4170 Stop in for a coffee and muffin and you may just end up staying for lunch — or longer. (They’re open until 6 p.m.) Great service and fresh-baked goods, yogurt-granola parfaits, chia pudding and to-go items. Coffee Shop. B, L, D, $ COOL CAT CAFÉ The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908 Burgers, chicken and more in a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $ DOWN THE HATCH The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900 Mermaid fries with cheese and lava sauce, towering shrimp cocktails, fresh island fish and lots of Southern aloha. Great shave ice, too! (See Breakwall’s listing.) Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D, N, $$ DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$ DUKE’S BEACH HOUSE MAUI Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900 Imagine Old Hawai‘i while dining on crab-and-macadamia-nut wontons or prime rib at this open-air beach house. Kidfriendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$ FEAST AT LELE 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353 This classic beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$ FLEETWOOD’S ON FRONT ST. 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. (Yes, that Fleetwood.) Pacific oysters with tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome and a onepound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. Bar opens at 2 p.m. American/British Pub Food. L, H, D, N, $$–$$$$ FOND Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Ste. 115, Nāpili, 856-0225. Breakfast silog bowls with garlic fried rice, sammies for lunch, Wednesday night fried chicken special and Sunday Chef’s Table. Eurasian. B, L, D, $–$$ FRIDA’S MEXICAN BEACH HOUSE 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287 Chalupas, fresh aguachile ‘ahi, short-rib tacos and great mixology

Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call ahead or visit their social media sites for information.

are among the reasons this seaside restaurant won the Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Mexican Cuisine. Latin-inspired. L, H, D $–$$ GAZEBO Napili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Nāpili, 669-5621. All day! Breakfast for lunch, lunch for breakfast. Fluffy pancakes, omelets, plate lunches with Cajun-spiced chicken or kālua pork, salads and seven burgers to choose from. Ocean views are free! International. B, BR, L, $ HONOLULU COFFEE COMPANY Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 868-4806 ‘Aipono’s 2019 Silver Award winner for Best Coffee Shop, this full-service coffee bar also offers light fare such as a granola parfait with fresh fruit, bagels, and ham and cheese croissants. Coffee Shop. B, L, $ HONU SEAFOOD & PIZZA 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390 Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D, $$ HULA GRILL Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636 Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy poke tacos, tiki mai tais, homemade ice cream sandwiches and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $$ INU POOL BAR The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6370 Island-fresh mixology earned Inu the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best Cocktails — taste for yourself! Enjoy Maui Brewing Company’s Coconut Hiwa beer-can chicken with shoestring potatoes and buttermilk dip, or Maui beer-battered tempura fish with Ocean Vodka tartar sauce. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $–$$ JAPENGO Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Great steaks and authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood are just two of the reasons Japengo won ‘Aipono’s 2019 Gold Award as Restaurant of the Year and the 2020 Gold Award for Best Pacific Rim Cuisine. Japanese. D, N, $$$ JOEY’S KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474 Second West Maui location: Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590 Start your day with macadamia nut pancakes or a kālua pork omelet at Whalers Village, and end it with dinner at Joey’s Nāpili venue. Chef Joey Macadangdang knows good food. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $–$$ LAHAINA GRILL 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117 Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad, Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with vanilla bean jasmine rice, or the famous Kona coffee-roasted rack of lamb with coffee-

cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selection and cocktails. American/Pacific Rim. D, R, $$$$ LEILANI’S ON THE BEACH Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495 Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors with a lemongrass miso salmon and Duroc pork ribs with honey BBQ glaze. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, H, D, N, $$

Lahaina Fried Soup Pohole Salad HAPA RAMEN STAR UDON AHI AVO GARLIC NOODLES Singapore Noodles Steamed Pork Buns PAD THAI malasadas SAKE COCKTAILS

LEODA’S KITCHEN & PIE SHOP 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600 The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw and ice-cold beer, or justsqueezed lemonade will make you want to dance. After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie! American. B, L, D, $ LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476 This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. Also see South Shore listing. Treats. $ MĀLA OCEAN TAVERN 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9394 Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the healthconscious and the hedonistic alike at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings are nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (Sat–Sun), L, D, $$ MAUIGROWN COFFEE COMPANY STORE 277 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-2728 If you’re running low on energy, head to MauiGrown’s plantation-style hale for a boost. Pumpkin bread and other baked goods round out a great cuppa joe. Coffee Shop/Café. B, L, $

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MAUI’S BEST BANANA BREAD + COFFEE CO. 180 Dickenson St., #115, Lahaina, 661-6216 Bananas, roasted macadamia nuts and coconut — all of life’s essentials rolled into a single serving of sweetness. Coffee, smoothies and lunch, too! Try a bacon, egg and ham bagel, a turkey-avo wrap or gluten-free banana bread. Coffee Shop. B, L, $ MAUKA MAKAI The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6400 Expect the freshest fish, beef and lamb, vegetable sautees and islandinspired desserts at this restaurant that celebrates the fishing and farming cultures of ancient Hawai‘i. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $–$$$ MERRIMAN’S KAPALUA 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua, 669-6400 Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to conjure up the most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, R, $$–$$$$ MISO PHAT SUSHI Kahana Manor, 4310 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #111, Kahana, 669-9010 See South Shore listing. MOKU ROOTS 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 214-5106 This vegan/ vegetarian venue is worth a visit! They won the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best New Restaurant and the 2020 Silver ‘Aipono for Tastiest Healthy Fare. Vegetarian/ Vegan. B, L, D, $ MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763 See South Shore listing.

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BREAKFAST • LUNCH • DINNER

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May–Jun 2021

Dining Guide More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call ahead or visit their social media sites for information.

MYTHS OF MAUI Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9119 Live music, Polynesian dance and an Island-inspired buffet complete with kālua pig unearthed from the imu. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$ OLD LĀHAINA LŪ‘AU 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0700 Eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$ PACIFIC’O 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341 Try the breakfast loco moco with a slant: “fried rice” tots, Maui onion gravy and organic poached egg with house-made sausage. Kaua‘i grass-fed beef burger with cured lamb bacon topped with smoked bourbon onion jam for lunch. Lobster ravioli for dinner. Hawai‘i Regional. BR (Sun), L, D, $$–$$$$ PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 632 Front St., Lahaina, 662-3456 See North Shore listing. PAPA ‘AINA Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636 Try the new, curated menu by Bravo Channel’s Top Chef competitor Lee Anne Wong. Smoked salmon Benedict for breakfast and cheesy kālua pork nachos with a cold beer at happy hour. Dig into a plate of shrimp and Portuguese sausage linguine for dinner. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $–$$ PIZZA PARADISO MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929 Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Med. L, D, $–$$ PRISON STREET PIZZA 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332 East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Italian/ Pizza. L, D, $ PŪLEHU, AN ITALIAN GRILL The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200 Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or a succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with chocolate almond cake and amarena gelato. Italian. D, $$$ ROY’S 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999 At lunchtime, line up for a great Maui burger. For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled ginger. Save room for the signature Melting Hot Chocolate Soufflé! Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$$ ROYAL OCEAN TERRACE RESTAURANT Royal Lahaina Resort & Spa, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-3611 Breakfast offerings include loco moco and eggs Benedict, or go light with a delightful avocado toast topped with microgreens. Burgers and prime rib, too. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $–$$ SALE PEPE 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667 Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini and house-made strozzapreti pasta — just like chef Michele Di Bari’s mama makes in Italy. Good Italian wines and beer. Italian/Pizza. D, $$

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SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286 Small and action-packed, D.K. Kodama’s classy sushi bar draws lines late into the night. Try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of sake. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, R. $$$ THE SEA HOUSE RESTAURANT Napili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500 Start the day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp as the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammy winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$ SON’Z STEAKHOUSE Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506 Moroccan spiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, line-caught mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/ Steak. H, D, N, $$–$$$$ STAR NOODLE 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5400 Big-city style and local flavors unite. Enjoy a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea as you drink in a view of Lāna‘i across the channel. The ramen broth is extra smoky, the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D, $$ TAVERNA 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426 Taverna is dining heaven. House-made pastas, agrodolce-style fish of the day and Italian desserts that stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Great wine, cocktails and craft beer. Italian. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$ TEDDY’S BIGGER BURGERS 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111 The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $ TEPPAN-YAKI DAN Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600 Start with Oyster Dan — seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko — then watch your chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece. Japanese/Steak. D, R, $$$ THAI CHEF Old Lahaina Center, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814 This small, well-loved venue keeps fans coming back for commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D, $ TIKI TERRACE RESTAURANT Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0011 Dine in casual comfort with the full-service menu, or challenge yourself to try all the offerings at the award-winning Sunday brunch. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D, $–$$$ TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-1919 Thai food made by Thai chefs. Hundreds of dishes, from spring rolls and pad Thai to yellow curry with seafood. Thai, L, D, $–$$ ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 790 Front St., Lahaina, 877-3700 Second West Maui location: Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa,

200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali Homemade tropicalflavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Kid-friendly. Treats, $ ‘ŪMALU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4902 Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, $$$ WAIKIKI BREWING COMPANY 900 Front St., Lahaina, 856-0036 Paddy’s Irish stout and Waikele Wheat brew temper the heat in ~o queso dip served with a giant pretzel. the jalapen Follow it up with smoked Kona coffee-rubbed beef brisket and cheddar potato cake and you’ll be one happy patron. American. BR, L, D, $–$$

SOUTH SHORE 1054 TOGOSHI South Maui Center, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 868-0307 Chef Manabu’s 25 years as a sushi chef — two of them as head chef at Morimoto’s Maui — shine through in fresh sashimi and sushi. Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of each month. Sushi. D, $–$$ AKAMAI COFFEE COMPANY 1325 S. Kīhei Rd., Unit 100, Kīhei, 868-3251 Second South Shore location: 116 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 868-0003 Experience coffee and espresso done right at this 2020 ‘Aipono Gold Award winner for Best Coffee Shop. Coffee Shop. $ BISTRO MOLOKINI Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Serving organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips and grilled mahimahi made with fresh, local ingredients in a casual, open-air eatery. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $$$ BOTERO LOUNGE Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Named for the surrounding Fernando Botero sculptures, this lounge offers nightly entertainment. Try Thirsty Thursdays, when a threecocktail tasting is just $20. Lounge. L, D, H, N, $ CAFÉ O’LEI 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368 Choose from macadamia nut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$ COCONUT’S FISH CAFÉ Azeka Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979 Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D, $$ DUO Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Breakfast buffet or à la carte? Did someone mention chateaubriand? Four Seasons never disappoints. Pacific Rim. B, D, $–$$$ FABIANI’S PIZZERIA & BAKERY South Maui Center, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 8740888 Second South Shore location: 34 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 874-1234 Enjoy lox and

bagels, fresh croissants, caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, and spaghetti with house-made pork sausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. B, L, D, $$

Chateaux hotel and restaurant, is ready to serve at his new digs in Kīhei. Try the smash burger and noodles — chopsticks in one hand and burger in the other — local style! Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, $–$$

FAT DADDY’S SMOKEHOUSE 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711 What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked for fifteen hours over kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans and two cabbage slaws: one sweet-tart and one with blue cheese and apples. American. D, $–$$

HONOLULU COFFEE COMPANY The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-6630 See West Side listing.

FERRARO’S BAR E RISTORANTE Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 For lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside. For dinner, salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, H, D, $$$$ FORK & SALAD 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675 Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, gluten- and dairy-free options. International. L, D, $ FOUR SEASONS LOBBY LOUNGE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Impeccable service, a locally sourced menu, swank cocktails and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. H, D, N, $$$$ HAVENS 30 Manao Kala St., Kīhei, 868-2600 Local boy Zach Sato, former chef de cuisine at Hawai‘i’s Relais and

HUMBLE MARKET KITCHIN Wailea Marriott, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655 Chef Roy Yamaguchi hits it out of the park with kampachi crudo, seasonal Goose Point oysters, roasted Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, tender beef short ribs and even saimin. Perfect. Pacific Regional. B, H, D, $–$$$ ISLAND GOURMET MARKETS The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055 Sushi to go, deli sandwiches, plate lunches and much more. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $ KA‘ANA KITCHEN Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Start with a Wagyu hanger steak on a green papaya salad, then charred octopus with local goat cheese. Next, Kona abalone risotto, or a modern take on chicken and waffles. Curated wine list and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D, $$$$ KAMANA KITCHEN 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-7888 Eye-catching art and Indian relics accent a menu highlighting exotic spices and dishes, all lovingly created from family recipes. Lunch buffet. Indian. L, D, $–$$

KIHEI CAFFE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8792230 Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.? Head down to this surfer hangout for banana-mac-nut pancakes, loco moco and a cuppa joe. Café. B, L, $–$$ KŌ Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock” — three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock to sear them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, H, D, R, $$$ LEHUA LOUNGE Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Cocktails created with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients like lychee, liliko‘i and Hawaiian navel oranges go hand in hand with Ka‘ana Kitchen’s award-winning menu. Lounge. H, $ LINEAGE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8800 If steamed clams with housemade "XO" and lup cheong sausage, Maui beef with black garlic and hulihuli chicken with pineapple kim chee get your juices flowing, head to Wailea — now! Eat. Drink. Talk story. Pacific Rim. D, $–$$ LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE Kīhei Kalama Village Shopping Center, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779 How to chill out in the Islands? Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with Plantation Era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut pudding) and macadamia nut ice cream. Treats. $

Savor the Flavors of the Islands from Land to Sea The signature restaurant at Montage Kapalua Bay, Cane & Canoe, draws inspiration from the roots of Maui’s history and culture. Renowned for their exceptional breakfast and dinner menus, this breathtaking ocean-view venue offers classic favorites and modern local flair, utilizing only the freshest ingredients from local farmers and fishermen. We invite you to indulge in this exceptional dining experience.

ONE BAY DRIVE, LAHAINA (888) 572-8960 CANEANDCANOE.COM

On Location at Montage Kapalua Bay

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May–Jun 2021

Dining Guide More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call ahead or visit their social media sites for information.

LONGHI’S WAILEA The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883 Eggs Benedict, made Florentinestyle with spinach or topped with crabcakes, will lure you out of bed. Have an open-faced chicken picatta sandwich for lunch and seafood pasta for dinner. Extensive wine list, too! Italian. B, L, H, D, $$$ LUANA LOUNGE Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kālua pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce and lomilomi tomato, paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, H, D, $–$$ MANOLI’S PIZZA COMPANY 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499 Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppine. Italian/Pizza. L, H, D, N, $$ MATTEO’S OSTERIA Wailea Town Center, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466 Matteo’s meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and ‘ahi crusted with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, H, D, $$–$$$ MISO PHAT SUSHI Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476 Sushi served on-site, to-go, or

delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! Japanese. L, H, D, $$ MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Wailea Gateway Center, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322 Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner, Big Island beef rib-eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage and banana-cream pie. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, N, $$ NICK’S FISHMARKET Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-7224 Enjoy classic seafood dishes beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. H, D, R, $$$$ NUTCHAREE’S AUTHENTIC THAI FOOD Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840 Start with ‘ahi laab tartare salad or a crispy fish mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D, $–$$ PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888 The same yummy menu that hooked surfers and families for years in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei. See North Shore listing. THE PINT & CORK The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr.,

Wailea, 727-2038 The best mac ‘n’ cheese with black truffles, shrimp and grits with chorizo, poke bowls and burgers. During football season you can score breakfast, too. Touchdown! American. L, H, D, N, $–$$ PITA PARADISE Wailea Gateway Center, 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 879-7177 Start with classic spinach tiropitas with caramelized onions, feta, mozzarella and tzatziki wrapped in phyllo dough, then move on to kabobs, pasta and gyros. Finish with baklava ice cream cake. Mediterranean. L, H, D, $–$$$ PIZZA MADNESS 1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 270-9888 This familystyle restaurant serves Cobb salad, hot and cold deli sandwiches, award-winning pizza and pasta. Italian/Pizza. L, D, $–$$ THE RESTAURANT AT HOTEL WAILEA 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224 Produce from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients around. With a gorgeous outdoor setting, it’s a night made in heaven. European-inspired. H, D, N, $$–$$$$ ROASTED CHILES Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357 Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like chicken mole, pozole verde and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo

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cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, H, D, $–$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880. Steaks and homespun side dishes worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earned this chain loyal fans — and this venue doesn’t stray from the flock. American. H, D, N, $$$$ SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR Kīhei Town Center, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8790004 See West Side listing. SOUTH SHORE TIKI LOUNGE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8746444 Gourmet pizza, burgers, salads and several vegetarian items round out the menu at this hip bar. American. L, D, N, $ SPAGO Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Start with fresh poke nestled in crunchy sesame-miso cones, then enjoy the caramelized pork chop with exotic notes of anise, cinnamon and pineapple. Chef Peleg will have you singing his praises. Pacific Rim. D, N, $$–$$$ TANPOPO 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., #F, Kīhei, 446-3038 Lunch offerings include ramen, Japanese-style chicken curry, California rolls and beef burgers. Dinner goes Italian and Japanese with pastas, flatbreads, sashimi, sushi and tempura. Japanese/Italian Fusion. L, D, $–$$$ THREE’S BAR & GRILL 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133 Eggs Benedict six ways, including seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon and prime rib. For lunch, Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen. For dinner, truffle-yaki marinated flatiron steak. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Pacific Rim/Southwest. B, L, H, D, $$–$$$ TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT & BAR The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983 Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, N, $–$$ ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei See West Side listing. VIDAD’S LOCAL KINE GRINDZ 1 Pi‘ikea Ave., Kīhei, 214-6995 Local plate-lunch menu changes regularly to showcase island-style cuisine. Fried poke bowl, steak bites, garlic shrimp and chow fun, too! Food Truck. L, D, $

CENTRAL BISTRO CASANOVA 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 873-3650 This downtown bistro serves paella for two, fresh-cut french fries and burrata caprese, as well as fresh pasta dishes. Best pau hana (happy hour) in Kahului. Mediterranean. L, H, D, $–$$ CAFÉ O’LEI, THE DUNES AT MAUI LANI 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073 Same great fare as the South Shore location, served beside a links golf course overlooking West Maui’s mountain. American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, $$

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May–Jun 2021

Dining Guide More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call ahead or visit their social media sites for information.

CAFÉ O’LEI AT THE MILL HOUSE Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 442-7742 Fun, expanded menu at the restaurant group’s newest venue. Maui’s most beautiful mountain backdrop to boot! Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $–$$$ FORK & SALAD Pu‘unene Shopping Center, 120 Ho‘okele St., Unit 330, Kahului, 793-3256 See South Shore listing. MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-CUPS (2877) Pastries, muffins, salads, sandwiches, wraps, and bagels and lox made to order. Fresh-roasted coffee beans set this experience above the rest. “Happy Cappy Hour” from 2 to 6 p.m. Coffee Shop. B, L, H, $ MAUI FRESH STREATERY MauiFreshStreatery.com, 344-7929 Kyle Kawakami was ‘Aipono’s 2019 Chef of the Year, and in 2020 won the Gold ‘Aipono for Best Food Truck. He rocks street food with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L, $ ONLY ONO BBQ Kahului, 777-9026 Crispy-skin Chinese-style roast pork and duck, bao pork buns, plate lunches and smoked brisket. Location varies; download menu and schedule at OnlyOnoBBQ.com. Chinese– American. L, D, $ A SAIGON CAFE 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560 Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot, the Vietnamese burrito, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D, $ SAM SATO’S 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 244-7124 This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian B, L, $ THAI MEE UP Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369 Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles. Curry, too! Thai. Food Truck. L, D, $ TIGHT TACOS 349 Hanakai St., Kahului, 707-1221 Get the threetaco plate lunch (braised beef, pork and shrimp) with street corn, rice and salsa. Scratch great Mexican street food off your foodie bucket list! Mexican. L, $ TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 893-0026 See West Side listing. TIN ROOF MAUI 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753 Sheldon Simeon of Top Chef fame builds memorable kau kau bowls filled with savory offerings: furikake-crusted seared salmon, Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter and a killer spicy fried chicken sandwich. Pacific Rim. L, $ TJ’S WAREHOUSE 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 244-7311 Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves plate lunch to-go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel) and a hot line of daily specials like potato croquettes, nishime and poke. Asian. B, L, $ UMI MAUI 1951 Vineyard St., Wailuku, 269-1802 If a California roll topped with tuna, hamachi, salmon,

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unagi and a kimchi-butter foam rocks your world, then chef Jayse Sato’s restaurant is your earthquake! Creative presentations and flavors and epic soft-shell crab bao buns. BYOB! Japanese. D, $–$$ ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului Second Central Maui location: 50 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku See West Side listing. WAILUKU COFFEE COMPANY 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259 Espresso, salads, sandwiches and ice cream served in a relaxed and eclectic setting. Coffee Shop. B, L, $

UPCOUNTRY GRANDMA’S COFFEE HOUSE 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140 The eggs Benedict and baked goods made from scratch are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onions. Coffee Shop/Snacks. B, L, $–$$ KULAMALU FOOD TRUCK LOT Kiopa‘a St., Pukalani Gravel lot next to Longs. Many food trucks with a choice of vegetarian, local-style plate lunches, açai bowls, barbecue and more. LA PROVENCE 3158 L. Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313 Perfect croissants, fruit tarts, blueberry-mango scones and artisan breads baked fresh daily. On weekends, muscle past long-distance cyclists to order a Benedict or salmon pesto crêpe. Cash only. French/Bakery. B (Wed-Fri), BR (Sat-Sun), L (Wed-Fri), D (ThurSun), $

well-loved standard. Plush bar setting with original cocktail menu. Kid-friendly. American/ Pizza. B, L, H, D. $$ ESTERS FAIR PROSPECT 2050 Main Street, Wailuku, 868-0056. Serving classic cocktails, tiki drinks, craft spirits, rum, amaro, Mezcal, tequila, wine and beer. Local farm-to-table inspired small plates, too. Rosé wine and daiquiris during Happy Hour. Open 2 p.m. to 10 p.m. Lounge/Snacks. H, $ FLATBREAD COMPANY 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989 Big booths, a snazzy bar scene and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N, $$ MAMA’S FISH HOUSE 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488 Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesianinspired cuisine. Each detail evokes old-time island hospitality. In 2018, this Maui institution became a James Beard nominee for Best Restaurant. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, R, $$–$$$$ NUKA 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939 Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Creative lunch and dinner specials are epic! Save room for black sesame or green tea ice cream. Japanese. L, D, $$–$$$ NYLOS 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354 Ever since its opening, this fine-dining restaurant has garnered rave reviews on the coconut wireless for its menu and casual ambiance. International. D, $$$

LUMERIA’S WOODEN CRATE 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579-8877 Fresh, locally caught fish and other healthy fare highlight a menu that changes daily. Produce grown on Lumeria’s grounds are the foundation for many of the dishes at this charming retreat. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R, $$–$$$$

PAIA BOWLS 43 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 214-6504 Get amped with healthy fruit-and-granola açai bowls, avocado toast and nitro coffee. Try add-ons like ashwaganda, cordyceps and brain dust in your favorite Blue Majik smoothie. You’ll be waffling the surf after your iced matcha latte. Surfer fare. B, L, $

O‘O FARM 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341 Reserve a culinary tour to learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the woodburning oven and fresh-roasted coffee in this bucolic setting. Lunch includes chicken and fish entrees, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L, $$$$

PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030 Huge slabs of fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kidfriendly. Seafood. L, D, $

ULUPALAKUA RANCH STORE & GRILL 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561 Across the road from MauiWine, find great deli fare, hot off the grill lamb burgers with tzatziki, grass-fed venison or beef burgers. Plus, homestyle chili and rice or kālua pork plate lunch. American. L, D, $

NORTH SHORE CHOICE HEALTH BAR 11 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia, 661-7711 See West Side listing. COLLEEN’S BAR AND RESTAURANT 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211 Slip into a comfy booth and enjoy a roasted eggplant sandwich on homemade bread. The pizza is a

WAILUKU COFFEE CO Aloha Aina Center., 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 8683229 Downtown goes “country” with this second location, serving the same tasty salads, sandwiches, ice cream and espresso. Coffee Shop. B, L, $

HĀNA BAREFOOT CAFÉ 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732 Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or a mahimahi plate lunch to go. Pacific Rim. B, L, $ THE PRESERVE KITCHEN + BAR Hyatt Hāna-Maui Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401 Hāna-sourced fish and local produce are the basis of this original menu. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juices. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R, $$–$$$

WHO’S HELPING

Something's Fishy The Hawaiian Islands Land Trust (HILT) has been conducting ecological restoration efforts at Kapoho, an ancient village in the Waihe‘e Coastal Dunes and Wetlands Refuge. Ten members of Hawaiian Paddle Sports volunteered to help with the removal of invasive species, and spent a day clearing out debris from the ancient seven-acre loko i‘a (fishpond). HILT hopes that once the streamflow returns, they will be able to restore function to the loko i‘a and provide food for the community. Interested in volunteering? Email Kia‘i Collier at kiai.collier@hilt.org.

Community is everything, and these oustanding local businesses and nonprofits deserve to be in the spotlight for all the good they do for the people, places, flora and fauna of Maui. By Felix Sunny D’Souza

Sharing the Love During the month of February, Hua Momona Farms hosted the Share the Love Matching Donation program. Buyers purchasing a fresh farm-produce box were encouraged to also buy one for a neighbor in need. And with each purchase, the farm donated an additional box to help support the community, Maui Rapid Response and the Ka Hale A Ke Ola Homeless Resource Centers. huamomonafarms.com

Go Green

COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

Mālama Maui Nui's “Go Green Recycling" is a monthly event for West Maui residents. Held in partnership with the Rotary Club of Lahaina Sunset, 5A Rent-A-Space and the County of Maui Division of Environmental Protection and Sustainability, each Go Green event receives thousands of pounds of unwanted appliances, such as air conditioners, microwaves, refrigerators and electronics, as well as things like batteries, tires and bicycles. malamamauinui.org/gogreen

Choose to Reuse The Surfrider Foundation launched “Choose to Reuse,” a campaign for business owners looking to reduce waste. Initiatives include giving disposable utensils upon request only, online menus and incentives for customers who bring their own drinkware. “[For] most to-go orders, customers use their own utensils, condiments and napkins at home,” says Erica Chavez, coordinator for the Surfrider Maui Ocean Friendly Restaurants program. “By providing [disposable] utensils on request only, restaurants will save money and cut down on single-use items.” surfrider.org/ocean-friendly-restaurants Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2021

PAU HANA

Fish Story A tale of Dad, a pitchfork and a tidal wave My dad worked for 47 years in the sugarcane fields. His days began at 4 a.m. and ended late at night during harvest. But during the off season he’d get home from work just as we got out of school, and once chores and homework were done, we got to play with Dad. Considering that he was a bigger kid than any of us, this often got us in trouble with Mom. Every afternoon like clockwork, Dad would take a long walk along the beach in our Lower Waiehu neighborhood, trailing a bedraggled assortment of kids and dogs behind — a modern-day Pied Piper. Looking back, I realize this must have been his way to release stress, but we made sure he never took the time for granted. We drove him crazy, collecting rocks, shells, dead fish and even stray cats. (To this day my sister, Joycie, swears she found them in a box labeled with our last name!) One afternoon during one of these walks we arrived at the beach and discovered that the tide had receded several hundred yards. In the shallows, a heap of surprised and panicked sea life flopped about, including all manner of fish, tako (octopus), crabs and eels. Dad’s eyes nearly popped out of his head. Though he had never learned to swim, Dad enjoyed fishing and he went out every Wednesday night with his best friend, Pete; their catches kept us well-fed. “Skip, go home and get the speargun and whatever else you can find — and hurry!” he

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Story by Cindy Cobb

said to my brother. Skip dashed across the sand, flew across the street and hurtled into our house across the way, returning in short order with a number of pointy implements. Dad rolled his pants up to his knees, and with a speargun in one hand and a pitchfork (yes, a pitchfork) in the other, he waded in and started collecting dinner. A jab here and a jab there, then he turned and handed me a pitchfork loaded with several huge squid — a grotesque, writhing, reaching chandelier. “Daaaaad! They’re still alive!” I whined. “And they’re going to get me!” I held the pitchfork as far away from me as I could manage without dropping his precious pūpū (appetizer). But Dad was oblivious to my protests. Licking his lips, he insisted that the squid was just trying to be friendly and to stop complaining. “And for God’s sake, don’t drop the pitchfork!” he warned. By then our dog, Maui Girl, and my younger brother and sister were splashing in the tide pools, prodding and pawing at exposed urchins and tiny starfish. Dad was having the time of his life, marveling at this gift of nature and formulating a plan to share his bounty with friends, neighbors and family as he jabbed repeatedly into the sand. Then Mom arrived. She leaned out of the window of our station wagon and yelled: “I just heard on the radio that a tidal wave is coming! Load up

these kids and let’s go!” “Not yet,” Dad called back without looking up. He quickly began picking up fish with his bare hands, but our collective “uh-ohs” clued him into the fact that he had gone too far, and he finally straightened up and turned to face The Wrath of Mommy. With one foot still in the car and one on the ground, arms akimbo, she leveled us all with The Look. “Sonny Nobriga,” she said to Dad, enunciating each and every syllable. “There is a tidal wave coming and we have to leave — now! Come home and help me load this car or I’m leaving you behind!” So with Dad shaking his head at the loss of all those dinners-to-be and myself trailing behind with the twitchy squid slowly inching their way down the handle of that old pitchfork, we returned home and packed the car and departed for higher ground. Hours later the swell hit. Water climbed the beach, crossed the road and rose up our driveway, but by then we were safe at Grandma’s. Mom shook her head and outlined to all who would listen to the “what ifs” of the repercussions of Dad’s collecting frenzy. Dad endured her scolding silently, but not because of contrition: His mouth was full of fried squid, and no amount of tongue lashing could quell his bliss. This story originally appeared in our Summer 2002 issue.

Serving Hawaii Is Our Business Since 2005, Pasha Hawaii has supported Maui’s locally-grown businesses, including Maui’s own Haynes Publishing Group, a second-generation familyowned company that publishes Maui Nō Ka ʻOi Magazine, Ka’anapali Magazine, Island Living, and Eating & Drinking magazines. These awardwinning publications focus on the life and culture on Maui, celebrating the people, places and events that make this Island, Maui Nō Ka ʻOi. “Our partnership with Pasha Hawaii is one of our most valued. Pasha understands the challenges and unexpected snags facing small-business owners everyday. From senior management to dock workers, the people at Pasha exemplify aloha in their business strategies and responsiveness. They truly care about our product. The remarkable success of Pasha is reflected in their unwavering commitment to the success of their customers.” — Diane Haynes Woodburn, Publisher, Haynes Publishing Group