Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine July-August 2021

,

MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI MAGAZINE

of sharing Maui stories

New Ka- anapali Eateries

JULY-AUGUST 2021

Dining Out

Your ‘Aipono Restaurant Award winners Hāna locals inspire Hawai‘i chefs How Maui restaurants survived 2020

plus TRIAL BY TRAIL HIKING WAIHE‘E THE SECRET SEX LIFE OF CORAL AN ARTISTIC KULA ESTATE

VOL 25 / NO. 4

VOL 25 NO. 4 US/CAN $4.95

M AU I M AG A Z I N E . N E T

“Its authenticity, intimacy, hospitality, cultural integrity and sheer romantic beauty have made this Maui’s top lū‘au.”

F r o m m e r ’s M a u i

H awa i i M a g a z i n e

“This is the best lū‘au on Maui.

I rate it the best in the state.”

Featured in:

Emeril Live National Geographic Traveler New York Times The Travel Channel K a h i l i A wa r d s

1999 “Show”, 2000 “Attraction” Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau

Voted “Best Lū‘au”by Maui Residents Zagat Sur vey

“Excellent” “Extraordinary to Perfection”

For Reser ved Seats Call

(808)667- 0700 www.oldlahainaluau.com 1251 Front Street, Lāhaina Along the ocean in Historic Lāhaina Town

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

30

ISLAND BUSINESS BUSINESS AS USUAL We honor four more local establishments that have stood the test of time. By Heidi Pool

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Features

ADVENTURE TRIAL BY TRAIL Waihe‘e Ridge Trail isn’t for the faint of heart, but the effort yields rich rewards. By Heidi Pool

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MNKO EXCLUSIVE SHARK TALE Photographer and Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi contributor came face-to-face with a shark — and survived.

By Daniel Sullivan

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HAWAIIAN SOUL SUSTAINING CULTURE Families from Hāna teach acclaimed chefs how to live off the land. By Lehia Apana

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AT HOME ARTISTIC OASIS Life imitates art and art imitates life in this well-appointed Kula estate. By Savy Janssen

Cover: Photographer Mieko Horikoshi shot this amazing image of Napili Bay from the outdoor dining area at the Sea House Restaurant. The Sea House won the 2020 silver ‘Aipono Award for Best Oceanfront Dining.

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KEVIN BROCK

A Hāna man stands poised to throw a net, demonstrating an ancient Hawaiian method of fishing.

Hawaiian Soul, p.46

Kapalua Oceanfront Estate

Kahana Oceanfront Legacy Estate

Montage Residences Kapalua Bay

Kaanapali Coffee Farms Estate

Lanai Manele Resort Estate

Maui’s #1 Realtor® 2020* We Represent Maui’s Finest Oceanfront, Resort, and Estate Properties. * Realtor Association of Maui

“For us, our client relationship doesn’t end at the sale. It’s just the beginning.”

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(808) 669-1000 | 500 Bay Drive in Kapalua | Hawaii Life is a Founding Member of Forbes Global Properties

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Departments

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MAUIMAGAZINE.NET Want more MauiMag? Check out our online exclusives.

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CONTRIBUTORS Here are just a few of the people who make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine that it is.

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE

By Diane Haynes Woodburn

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TAG, WE’RE IT! Giving a shoutout to our MauiMag fans who get social.

Miso Phat received the Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Sushi in 2020. Find all the winners on page 74.

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TALK STORY Tales of Hawai‘i fresh off the coconut wireless. By Shannon Wianecki and Krista Garcia

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CELEBRATING 25 YEARS We’ve turned 25! Here are some of our favorite stories of issues past. By Rita Goldman

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MĀLAMA MAUI These local businesses embrace and promote sustainability, helping care for our island.

By Felix Sunny D’Souza

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PAU HANA FILL ‘EM UP By Tita

Dining Stories by Becky Speere

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FEATURE KEEP CALM AND HELE ON The chefs, owners and managers of some of our favorite restaurants discuss how they stayed afloat despite recent challenges.

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DINING HIGHLIGHTS KĀ‘ANAPALI CONNOISSEUR These seven new restaurants serve amazing fare, no matter what your budget.

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MIXOLOGY Take a stroll down tequila lane with Taverna’s custom cocktail, the Walking Penelope.

MauiMagazine.net

RYAN SIPHERS

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DINING GUIDE We give kudos to our 2020 ‘Aipono Award winners — the island’s best restaurants as voted on by our readers.

TABLE OF CONTENTS → WEB

MauiMagazine.net

LOOK TO THE SKIES Learn how to locate the Southern Cross, Cassiopeia and Scorpius in the clear Maui nighttime skies.

MauiMagazine.net/ summer-stargazing

RECIPE(S) FOR RELAXATION Looking for a cool cocktail recipe? Some of Maui’s best restaurants share their most popular creations.

MauiMagazine.net/ cool-cocktails

SHARK TANK Tiger sharks aren’t all bad — in fact, they’re a integral part of a healthy ocean habitat.

MauiMagazine.net/ tiger-shark-pups

WALK THE TALK If you’re inspired to tackle a trail after reading our Adventure story (p. 34), let Hike Maui do the talking as you do the walking.

MauiMagazine.net/hike-maui

TAG US #LoveMauiMag

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VISIT OUR DIGITAL PLATFORMS

EMAIL US info@mauimagazine.net

@MauiMag

LISTEN TO US Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine and SilverShark Media podcast on Spotify and iTunes

@MauiMagazine

MauiMagazine.net

@MauiMag_Eats MNKOmagazine MauiMagazine MauiMag

FEED THE FAM Finding food everyone can agree on is hard! Here are six places we recommend that will satisfy the whole gang.

MauiMagazine.net/ family-friendly-restaurants

TOP RIGHT: LAHAINA GRILL / MIDDLE: ANDRE SEALE | BOTTOM RIGHT: MIEKO HORIKOSHI, PIZZA PARADISO / ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

Want more Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi? Go to our website for exclusive articles, recipes, contests, videos and more. Here’s what’s in store this issue.

MASTHEAD

WEAR A MASK SHOW ALOHA! It’s the law.

Protect those who show you Aloha.

There’s a saying known in the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.

Publisher Diane Haynes Woodburn Group Publisher Michael Haynes Creative Director John Giordani

Editor-in-Chief Lara McGlashan

EDITORIAL

Consulting Editor Rita Goldman Dining Editor Becky Speere Website Manager Adelle Lennox Digital Media Manager Felix Sunny D’Souza Digital Media Contributor Tori Speere MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Sales Manager Brooke Tadena Advertising Sales (808) 242-8331 ADMINISTRATION

Controller Kao Kushner Subscriptions & Office Manager Nancy Wenske NEWSSTAND SALES & CIRCULATION

Subscription Inquiries Toll-Free: (844) 808-MAUI (6284) or visit Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net National MagNet, National MagNet, Disticor Magazine Distribution Services Hawai‘i MagNet | In-Room Maui Circulation CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Lehia Apana, Kathy “Tita” Collins, Krista Garcia, Rita Goldman, Savy Janssen, Heidi Pool, Becky Speere, Daniel Sullivan, Shannon Wianecki CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Caring about each other — it’s what we do on an island.

Bob Bangerter, Steve Brinkman, Kevin Brock, Pauline Feine, Ryan Siphers, Forest & Kim Starr, Daniel Sullivan CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR

Matthew Foster E-MAIL: Info@MauiMagazine.net

Moving? Send address changes to: Haynes Publishing Group, 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793. Please note: If your magazine is undeliverable, Haynes Publishing has no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year of notification.

For public safety & travel updates, visit mauinuistrong .info

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living and Eating & Drinking magazines 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; (808) 242-8331. ISSN 2473-5299 (print) | ISSN 2473-5469 (online) ©2021 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly subscriptions: U.S., $24; Canada, $44; Foreign, $64. Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net.

Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi, an environmental leader whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

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CONTRIBUTORS

Here are some of the folks who make our magazine nō ka ‘oi (the best).

When photographer Kevin Brock moved to Maui, he didn’t know what to expect; he had never been to Hawai‘i before. But now, having lived in Hāna for the past 10 years, Brock now knows the island is special, not only because of its stunning scenery but also because of its people and strong community. He and his wife are deeply grateful for the opportunity to live in this spectacular place. kevinbrockphotography.com

Savy Janssen grew up barefoot on Maui before moving to California to study writing. She obtained her master’s degree in 2019 with a graduate thesis defense on identity politics in Hawai‘i. Janssen now lives back on Maui and works as an English teacher at Seabury Hall. Her writing has been published in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Lennon Wall Magazine, Callliope, The Panther and The Los Angeles Review of Books.

For his book The Maui Coast, awardwinning photographer Daniel Sullivan captured stunning landscapes by circumnavigating the island, logging more than 200 miles in search of the remnants of the 16th-century King’s Highway. Sullivan currently runs private photography tours. DanielSullivan.tours | IG @danielsullivangallery DanielSullivanPhotography.com

Hawaiian Soul (p.46)

At Home (p.54)

MNKO Exclusive (p.40)

Born and raised on Maui, Lehia Apana has lived in Chicago, Rome and Sydney, but always finds her way back home.

Apana began as a reporter for The Maui News and later served as managing editor for Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi. When not clicking away at her keyboard, Apana can be found working on her regenerative farm on Maui’s northern coast.

PolipoliFarms.com | IG/FB @PolipoliFarms

Maui girl Kathy Collins is a storyteller, actress, TV/radio personality, stand-up comic and freelance writer. With her pidginspeaking alter ego, “Tita,” Collins has performed throughout Hawai‘i and on the mainland, including appearances at the Lincoln Center Out of Doors Festival in New York and the Hawai‘i Book and Music Festival. Visit mauimagazine.net/gas-stationcuisine to hear Tita read her story aloud.

Chef Krista Garcia studied English literature at the University of Oregon then attended the Napa Valley Cooking School in order to hone her food-writing skills.

Garcia soon discovered she had a passion for cooking and currently serves as the Treehouse and Culinary Experiences chef at Hotel Wailea. She is excited to revisit her passion for storytelling in this issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi.

Hawaiian Soul (p.46)

Pau Hana (p.82)

Day in the Life (p.24)

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE

“We Know Wine” meet our maui team

James Maher Tod Clayton S. Maui Sales W. Maui Sales Certified Sommelier Certified Sommelier

Charles Fredy VP, Director of Sales & Marketing Advanced Sommelier

LOOK FOR US EVERYWHERE....

Find our wines around the state at many fine resorts, restaurants and retailers.

hawaii’s fine wine specialist since 1979 EST. 1973 @ChambersWinesHawaii @chamberswineshi

www.chamberswines.com 18

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“Sit. I’ll get you something to eat.”

When my grandmother was in her 90s, she described a dream she had of an endlessly long table draped with the finest lace tablecloth and set with exquisite silver and china. On the table was every dish she had ever prepared for her family — every casserole, every roast, every pie and cake she had ever baked.

“Isn’t that a silly dream?” she asked.

“No,” I answered. “It’s wonderful.”

Food is nourishment, of course, but it is so much more than that. Food brings families together, cements friendships, eases suffering and enriches joy. It fuels armchair philosophers, smooths the path to romance and celebrates our cultural differences and identities.

As this terrible pandemic winds down and we are again able to embrace one another physically and emotionally, food seems a particularly fitting theme. It’s the perfect way to honor all the cooks — from Maui’s chefs (those culinary gurus) to the local aunties and tutus (grandmothers) — who endured the shutdown, prepared meals for loved ones, and pitched in up their elbows to feed and care for our community.

This issue highlights the many facets of food and dining, from cookies to cooks and everywhere in between. For the article “Keep Calm and Hele On,” dining editor Becky Speere interviewed the chefs, managers and owners of some of Maui’s foremost restaurants to get the inside scoop on how they survived 2020. Our Dining Highlights section details seven of the new eateries recently added to the already impressive restaurant roster in Kā‘anapali.

In “Sustaining Culture,” author Lehia Apana describes a wonderful weekend where Hawai‘i chefs and Hāna residents connect over food, cooking and culture, and learn about themselves and how to live off the land. We also feature The Maui Cookie Lady and her incredible creations, the history of Roselani Ice Cream and the tenacity of the Pukalani Superette — an enduring institution. And since we were unable to honor our ‘Aipono Award-winning restaurants in person last year, we’re announcing them here for the world to see. They deserve all the love and praise we can give, and we can’t wait to sit at their tables again and enjoy meals with those we love.

But our readers don’t live by food alone. In these pages you’ll find a potluck of topics, from the secret sex life of corals to the extensive and eclectic art collection housed in an exceptional Kula estate; from a step-by-step narrative of what it’s like to hike the Waihe‘e Ridge Trail to the tale of a real-life shark encounter, as described by one of our contributing photographers, Daniel Sullivan.

On the whole, this issue is a paean to food, family and friendship. And even though we weren’t able to gather together much in the past year and a half, we still felt the love from everyone who did what they could to mālama (care for) Maui and our community.

Now the table is once again set. Join us — sit, laugh, share and be served.

A hui hou,

Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

MIEKO HORIKOSHI

Food, Glorious Food!

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TAG, WE’RE IT

Our readers are as obsessed with Maui as we are. We see you out there, exploring the island and snapping those Insta-worthy shots. Follow us on Instagram @MauiMag and @MauiMag_eats, tag #LoveMauiMag and we’ll share some of our favorite posts in each issue.

@choicehealthbar Belly up to this healthy bar.

@coconutcreativehi Jumpin’ jack(fruit) tacos, from @aarootsmaui

❥

@estersmaui We

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Wailuku! Cheers!

MauiMagazine.net

@ediblehours An on-the-go feast from @thaichefmaui

DON’T STOP THE FEELING. The Shops at Wailea | 808.874.5467 Ray-Ban RB2140

TALK STORY

Fresh off the coconut wireless

Left: Rice coral spawns at night, releasing minute bundles of eggs and sperm that drift slowly up through the water. Above: The morning after, a slick of unfertilized eggs, sperm and other residue from the spawning floats on the ocean’s surface.

in season

Story by Shannon Wianecki | Photos by Pauline Fiene

Sex and the Coral Polyp Few people think of corals as animals (they are) and even fewer contemplate their sex lives. But truth be told, a coral spawn is a magical event.

Corals belong to the phylum Cnidaria along with sea anemones and jellyfish. Unlike their soft-bodied kin, coral polyps secrete carbonate exoskeletons and cement themselves to the ocean floor.

And while the structure of a reef may look like rock, it is actually colonies of living corals.

Hawaiian waters are home to numerous coral species, named for the shape of their colonies — cauliflower, antler, mushroom, finger and rice. Throughout the year, corals engage in a flurry of sexual reproduction linked to the lunar cycle. But how do they propagate and share their DNA if they are immobile?

Each species responds differently to environmental clues, and when the time is ripe, they simultaneously release their eggs and sperm. For example, rice coral predictably spawns a few days after the new moon, June through August, and between 8 and 10 p.m.

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In the nascent moon’s wan light, the corals release bundles of gametes by the thousands. Most bundles float to the surface, where they break apart, releasing eggs and sperm; ideally, the eggs are fertilized by sperm from neighboring colonies and develop into larvae that drift in the currents with the goal of establishing new populations elsewhere. Biologists tracking a spawning event from a reef on Maui were surprised to discover that these larvae traveled more than 35 miles and reached Lāna‘i within 20 hours!

After a spawning, a strong-scented slick floats on the ocean’s surface; people often report it as pollution, not realizing that it’s evidence of reef regeneration. “It smells kind of fishy,” says marine biologist Pauline Fiene, who guides dive trips during spawns with her company, Mike Severns Diving. “It’s a really wonderful smell because you know that spawning occurred that night.”

Witness a rice-coral spawn from dry land! Follow Maui Ocean Center to stay abreast of their upcoming virtual events. mauioceancenter.com | 808.270.7000 | IG/FB @mauioceancenter

Come visit us at

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Edward Jones Thai Chef

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Lahaina Sports Bar & Cafe

Old Lahaina Center MNKO January 2021_fullpage.indd 1

845 Wainee Street, Lahaina, HI 96761 OldLahainaCenter.com

1/20/21 8:58 AM

TALK STORY → day

in the life

Story by Krista Garcia Photo by Ryan Siphers

Today, The Maui Cookie Lady’s creations are enjoyed around the world, and Toro has received a number of accolades, including being named one of seven women-owned “businesses they love” by the Food Network. She has appeared on Good Morning America, QVC and Rachel Ray, and has been featured in Forbes, Men’s Health and O Magazine, among others.

What makes her cookies so special?

Toro sources Maui-grown and local ingredients, such as Haleakalā Creamery caramel, Hawaiian sea salt, Koloa Rum, liliko‘i (passionfruit) from Ha‘ikū and macadamia nuts from Waihe‘e Valley.

Every few weeks she releases new flavors and limited-edition confections. To date, she has created more than 220 varieties and shows no sign of slowing down. In fact, Toro opened The Maui Cookie Lady retail shop in Makawao in December 2020, “with imagination, paint and friends from [several local] theatres who were out of work,” she says. Together, they designed the shop of every child’s dreams (and some grown-ups, too!) and built it using upcycled and refurbished materials sourced in the Hawaiian Islands.

The Sweetest Success Mitzi Toro and her staff call themselves “Cookie Elves,” and upon entering her shop you’ll see why. The 300-square-foot space has been transformed into a fairytale, with gnarled stumps, tiny cottages, flickering lanterns and giant flowers — a “Bavarian Sweet Shop of Aloha.”

“My whimsical shop was inspired by my late father,” says Toro. “He came from Germany to the States, and eventually to Maui to follow the American dream.”

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Toro’s cookie connection began in 2012 when the then-schoolteacher held a fundraising bake sale at a local farmer’s market; she wanted to give back to the nurses at the Maui Memorial Medical Center who had taken such good care of her terminally ill father. Toro’s cookies were so popular that she decided to start a business. Now, nine years later, life has come full circle and Toro has realized her own American dream.

Stop by the shop and donate a non-perishable item to help feed Maui residents in need, send something sweet to a frontline worker or just grab an ecofriendly bottle of delicious three-ingredient lemonade. And of course, buy a cookie — they are indeed worth the calories!

The Maui Cookie Lady, 3643 Baldwin Ave., Makawao | 793.3172 | themauicookielady. com | IG/FB @themauicookielady

LOCAL FARE , IMAGINATIVE FLAIR Dine at Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort, where locally sourced ingredients meet innovative culinary experiences. Indulge your senses at Ka’ana Kitchen with award winning cuisine.

Unwind at Lehua Lounge where our expert mixologists craft cocktails that are as appealing to your palate as they are to your eyes. Book your reservation today on OpenTable or call us at 808 573 1234.

MORE INFORMATION AT ANDAZMAUI.COM

CELEBRATING 25 YEARS OF MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI

Encore!

20112015 This year, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine celebrates a quarter-century of bringing you Maui stories. Throughout 2021, we’ll pull some of our all-time favorites from the archives, printing a sampler in these pages and the complete stories online (MauiMagazine. net/25years). We’ve saved space in the November/ December issue to highlight some of your favorites. Go to our website and spend some time reading, then send your candidates to ideas@mauimagazine.net.

Here’s to another 25 years.

Mahalo for your enduring support. Story by Rita Goldman

MALAMA

DANCERS of t h e DEE P

’AINA

IDES, OR SOLO PIROU LE GL ETTE EMB S AN ENS D LEA IN PS,

STO

Living in Hawai‘i transforms residents into tour guides every time visiting friends and family drop their closedtoed shoes on the lānai. A not-infrequent request: “Where can I swim with dolphins?”

Since ancient times, dolphins have captivated us.

Roman coins and Greek myths tell of dolphin rides and rescues. Australia’s aborigines considered dolphins as fishing partners, helping to round up mullet for all. Since the 1940s, trained dolphins have been an entertainment commodity, awing spectators with hoop-leaping, hatwearing, even picture-painting antics.

Like other swim teams across the country, one Maui club has adopted a dolphin moniker, perhaps with hopes of emulating these master swimmers.

All dolphins are called nai‘a in Hawaiian, but at least

RY BY TEYA PENNIMAN

PH TOGRA PHO

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KRA

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Spinner dolphins swim languidly through the clear waters of Lāna‘i’s Hulopo‘e Bay.

2011 SEP–OCT Dancers of the Deep 8/5/11 10:56 PM

2012 NOV–DEC Test Kitchen

prior to cooking. Chef Isaac started one bird the day before, and while all of them were delicious, the bird with the head start tasted best.

Serves 10

2 whole ducks (order through Maui Prime in Lahaina) 1 cup kosher salt 1 tablespoon Chinese five spice 1 cup Hoisin sauce

STUFFING

BATH

1 orange 1 pound fresh ginger ¼ pound scallions

1 cup each: molasses, shoyu (soy sauce), water, sugar 2 cups balsamic vinegar 3 star anise

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT Chef Isaac used a small air compressor to separate the duck’s skin from its meat and fat. This allows the skin to roast crisply and the fat to drain so the meat isn’t greasy. You can find similar compressors at hardware stores for around $25, but if

Left to right: Chef Isaac shows proper form in cutting the stuffing ingredients, then gives associate publisher Alix Buchter a lesson in trussing and seasoning the bird. Publisher Diane Woodburn learns it’s impossible to inflate a duck without laughing.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Nov-Dec 2012

www.mauimagazine.net

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SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2011 37

8/5/11 10:21 PM

Nearly every November, the Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi staff creates a sumptuous dinner under the tutelage of an ‘Aipono Award-winning Maui chef. In 2012, Isaac Bancaco (Pineapple Grill’s executive chef at the time) honored us with his wisdom and wit.

Pineapple Grill’s Executive Eight years after helping his mentor Ming Chef Isaac Bancaco shows how to give a Pacific Rim Tsai prepare for the Food Network’s Iron twist to your holiday feast.

Chef, Bancaco shepherded us, his more-orless-experienced assistants, in creating a holiday feast: Peking duck, Upcountry corn malasadas with eucalyptus honey butter, Story by Marti Rosenquist Photography by Nina Kuna and brown jasmine “unfried” rice. Writer Marti Rosenquist and photographer Nina Peking Duck Kuna captured the experience, and the story ran complete with tips, suggested culinary equipment and all the step-by-step recipes to try at home.

Well, almost all: There wasn’t room to print the recipe for Bancaco’s light and delectable panna cotta with fresh pomegranate and Maui Gold pineapple. Look for that recipe, and all the rest, at MauiMagazine.net/ panna-cotta.

HOLIDAY DINING

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At least eight dolphin species inhabit Hawaiian waters, and our enchantment with these gregarious cetaceans, our mammalian cousins, is understandable. “The upturned corners of the dolphin mouth make it easy to imagine a perpetual smile,” Teya Penniman wrote. “Like us, they play — catching and flicking floating leaves or seaweed with their fins, flukes, or rostrums.” It’s these elongated rostrums, or beaks, that distinguish dolphins from porpoises.

Spinner dolphins are among the most common around Maui — and the most attentiongrabbing. “Their spectacular aerial acrobatics are unmatched by other species,” said Penniman.

“Spinners have been seen leaping 10 feet in the air, completing seven full spins in a few seconds.”

Nai‘a, the Hawaiian word for dolphin, appears in the proverb He nai‘a, he i‘a lele, “It is the nai‘a, a jumping fish,” which is said of one who leaps to conclusions — like the assumption that all spinners are the same. “DNA studies indicate that spinner dolphins associate with specific islands,” Penniman said. “Our Maui spinners are genetically distinct from those found along [Hawai‘i Island’s] Kona coast.”

There’s a reason restaurants insist on twenty-four hours’ notice to prepare this classic dish. It takes a full day, but once the aroma emanates from your oven, you’ll know it’s worth the fuss.

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eight different species call our waters home. Pacific bottlenose, rough-toothed, spotted, and spinner dolphins are the most common. Telling them apart may be difficult for the untrained eye. Unless you’re doing a dental exam on a rough-toothed dolphin, you aren’t likely to notice the distinctive vertical grooves on its teeth! Patterns in coloration and the presence or absence of spots can help identify which of these smaller cetaceans has just crossed your path.

Unlike porpoises, dolphins have a distinct beak or elongated rostrum. The upturned corners of the dolphin mouth make it easy to imagine a perpetual smile. They are the essence of grace in water: their sinuous, S-shaped curving motions propel them effortlessly through the liquid element. Like us, they play—catching and flicking Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi

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For our Holiday Test Kitchen 2012, we asked Pineapple Grill’s hot new executive chef, Isaac Bancaco, to do the honors in guiding Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi’s staff through the preparation of a four-course feast.

The innovative chef enthusiastically agreed to share a few of his favorite recipes.

On the appointed day, Chef backed into my driveway with his truck and unloaded crates of pomegranates, bushels of kale, stacks of labeled containers with assorted ingredients, and four plucked ducks complete with heads, beaks and webbed feet.

“I ordered these special from Maui Prime,” he declared happily, adding that they were just like the ducks with which he had helped his mentor, Ming Tsai, prepare for the Food Networks’ Iron Chef, Battle Duck, in 2004.

It took me a while to warm up to the undressed ducks. At first their useless extremities reminded me of cliché comedy props, but at some point during the multiple stages required to transform the poultry into delectable Peking duck, I developed a fondness for the doomed critters. As Chef later explained, leaving the feet on the duck honors the bird; leaving the head on is essential to proper preparation. Now that I understand, I could not have duck any other way.

Note: Traditionally, Peking duck is prepared twenty-four hours

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SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS

The best choice for this year’s staycation is the historic Pioneer Inn on Lahaina Harbor.

Plenty of Places to Shop with over 14 Retailers ∏ Restaurants Banyan Treats

Bad Ass Coffee

Papa’aina Restaurant

Best Western Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina (808) 661-3636 www.pioneerinnmaui.com

CELEBRATING 25 YEARS OF MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI

2013 MAR–APR The Weave of History

With its aerial roots, spiky lau (leaves) and a fruit vaguely resembling a pineapple, the hala (pandanus) looks like a tree out of a Dr. Seuss book. Hawaiians made use of every part of the hala, especially the leaves.

“Lauhala weaving has been in every Hawaiian family ... for thousands of years,” master weaver and teacher Pōhaku Kaho‘ohanohono told writer Teya Penniman. From the dried leaves, Hawaiians of old wove mats, baskets, clothing, fans, thatching and sails in patterns passed down through generations.

Today, Kaho‘ohanohano estimates, fewer than 10 percent of Hawaiian families weave lauhala, and he feels a strong responsibility to perpetuate the craft.

“It’s part of my culture,” he said. “I’m doing what my ancestors did. ... it’s in my blood.”

« native soul »

In the plaited leaves of the pandanus tree, a lauhala master passes along an ancient tradition.

Story by Teya Penniman Photography by Nina Kuna Groves of the ancient hala tree (Pandanus tectorius) greeted the first Polynesians to paddle ashore here, but legend says that Pele’s wrath helped spread it about the Islands. The tree’s stiltlike prop roots and tangle of fallen, spiny-edged leaves snagged the volcano goddess’s canoe when she landed on the island of Hawai‘i. Enraged, she ripped the tree apart, casting it across the Islands. The resilient hala took root wherever it landed along Hawai‘i’s coastlines and lower elevations.

Early Hawaiians would have welcomed the sight of hala; peoples across the Pacific used every part of the plant, including the three- to-six-footlong lauhala (hala leaves), which burst like huge pompoms from its branch ends.

“Lauhala weaving has been in every Hawaiian family since the beginning of time— for thousands of years,” says soft-spoken master weaver and kumu (teacher) Pohaku Kaho‘ohanohano. In the old

Pohaku Kaho‘ohanohano sits on the floor of his Wailuku living room on a lauhala mat made in the 1940s, surrounded by hats and weaving molds. Opposite: Betsy Astronomo, of Kona, taught Pohaku the triangle accent weave kalahale (rooftop) for this ‘ānoni (two-tone) hat made from two shades of lauhala. The scalloped edge is hi‘i lū, the twill pattern is maka ‘ō‘eno, and the brim’s checkerboard maka moena. Inset: Coils of lauhala, waiting to be stripped and woven, vie for space with finished works.

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2014 JAN–FEB

Before the First Hawaiians

These fringe lichens (genus Heterodermia) thrive in wet montane forests, and condense water from the air through cilia that resemble eyelashes.

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Story by Peter von buol PhotograPhy by robert lücking, Ph.D.

The life forms that originally colonized these islands may have been neither plant nor animal. And they’re still here.

eventy million years ago, the first Hawaiian Islands emerged from the Pacific Ocean. Then as now, Hawai‘i was the world’s most isolated archipelago. For the earliest life forms to arrive and gain a foothold as the lava cooled, it had to have been a remarkable journey.

Those first living things were probably tiny spores that drifted down from high in the atmosphere and set into motion the process that transformed a lifeless landscape into a lush island ecosystem.

Neither plant nor animal, the first Hawaiian may have been a species of lichen.

“There are approximately 2,000 species of lichens in Hawai‘i,” says Robert Lücking, a lichenologist at Chicago’s Field Museum of Natural History, home to one of the largest research collections of lichens in the world. “Of these, about 1,200 are found nowhere else.”

That so many lichens are endemic to the Islands wasn’t known until Lücking and his team started sequencing the DNA about a year ago.

Although they have done fieldwork all over the world, Lücking and his colleagues are paying special attention to Hawai‘i and other islands in the Pacific because they are Earth’s unique evolutionary laboratories. “Even more than the Galapagos Islands, in Hawai‘i we have been able to observe evolution on the spot.”

Lichens are symbiotic organisms that form when a fungus combines with an alga or cyanobacterium (also known as a photobiont), the photosynthesizing partner of the pair. It’s the fungus’s job to provide a nurturing environment for the photobiont to grow in. The photobiont returns the favor by transforming sunlight into carbohydrates for the fungus. Together, they are able to live in environments that, apart, neither fungus nor alga would survive.

Over hundreds of millions of years, lichens have evolved an astounding array of shapes, sizes

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Jan-Feb 2014

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2015 MAY–JUN Clinging to Survival

Behind this headline lies a double meaning: It’s both the way ‘opihi (limpets) cleave to the rocks along East Maui’s Kīpahulu coast as they’re pummeled by waves, and also how those who gather these salty gastropods risk their lives in doing so. “The ‘opihi is responsible for more marine deaths than any other animal,” Paul Wood wrote.

Such tenacity also describes how the Kīpahulu community has worked to educate others about the deleterious effects of overharvesting, and how it threatens both the species and an indigenous way of life. “This community-based management [stems] from traditional Hawaiian knowledge,” said Emily Fielding, director of The Nature Conservancy’s Maui Marine Program. “What you harvest today affects what you can harvest tomorrow.”

« HAWAIIAN SOUL »

In rural East Maui, two communities are taking a stand to conserve a weird wild food—and with it, a part of their culture.

MauiMagazine.net

From left: Walter Pu, Ben Villiarmo and Hank Eharis scout for ‘opihi as two future ‘ohana (family) leaders look on. Gathering the island delicacy is risky business.

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Reindeer lichens (genus Cladina) can cover large areas of acidic soils. In the arctic tundra, they are food for grazing mammals such as reindeer and caribou.

Hawai‘i’s first life forms were likely neither plant nor animal. And they’re still here.

Writer Peter von Buol interviewed lichenologist Robert Lücking, who explained that lichens are symbiotic organisms, a fungus/alga partnership that enables each to live in environments neither could survive alone. And the changes they make to those environments help other life forms grow. “Rock and soil lichens are the pioneers in soil formation,” said Lücking. Lichens fix atmospheric nitrogen, serve as biofertilizers and regulate the water cycle at the habitat and microhabitat levels.

More than half of Hawai‘i’s roughly 2,000 lichen species exist nowhere else on Earth, and through evolution have adapted so specifically to their settings that you’d never guess they were kissing cousins.

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It was too hard to choose just a few of our favorites from the many stories we’ve shared over the years.

Here are some of our runners-up for you to enjoy. Read them in full at MauiMagazine.net/25years.

Marked (Jul-Aug 2011) « Maui Style »

Behind the rainBow Why do haWaiian skies put on the most amazing light shoWs?

TOP: ron RON dahlquist; DAHLQUIST; middle: MIDDLE: valentine VALENTINE bureau; BUREAU; top: BOTTOM: conn CONN brattain BRATTAIN bottom:

It’s not as though Hawai‘i is the only place with rainbows. All it takes to conjure one is falling water, sunlight, and the right spot for observing. Why, then, are rainbows at once so common and so spectacular here that they appear on our license plates and in our songs, in the names of our sports teams and the viewfinders of awestruck visitors who abandon their cars by the side of the road to photograph those brilliant bands of light?

RAINBOWS 101 The luminous arcs that span Hawaiian skies owe much to the Islands themselves: the height of our mountains, our distance from the equator and from just about anyplace else. Air currents, moving across the Pacific, gather moisture like a blessing or bouquet, and carry it on the trade winds till a mountain—Mauna Loa, Haleakalā, Wai‘ale‘ale—blocks the way, forcing the moist air up into cooler elevations and forming clouds. There’s even a word for it: orographic, “an effect induced by the presence of mountains.” As rain falls, each drop separates its portion of sunlight into red, or-

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story by rita goldman

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PICNICS, FARM TOURS, CLASSES & RETREATS

MauiAlpaca.com 808-870-3711 IG: @MauiAlpaca

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Reservations Needed

« artist on location »

story by rita goldman

At eighty, DouglAs Chun is reinventing his Art by pursuing his pAssion.

Beyond the windows of the studio in Douglas Chun’s Kula home, Nature is reveling in silent fecundity. Coffee, citrus and pepper trees, jacarandas and a Chinese magnolia preside over clumps of night-blooming jasmine, agapanthus, tree ferns and roses. Out there, gardener Chun maintains a civilized order over all that floral exuberance. In here, artist Chun celebrates it with canvas and color.

He nods toward a pair of paintings exploding with turquoise, green and red, and says Germination I and II pay homage to nature’s creative force. “I wanted to capture the miracle of life,”

In paintings such as Diffusion (above) and Germination (page 20), you can see how the artist has worked to capture creation’s irrepressible energy—compared to which, his Isle series (opposite) holds a hushed and deliberate restraint. He says, “Island life in many ways is isolated and contained. Today we depend so much on the Mainland; I wanted to make a statement about the need to be self-sufficient.”

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Like these dancers at Kū Mai Ka Hula, an international competition held at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center, hula practitioners create the beats they dance to, using percussive instruments to accentuate their storytelling.

Like choreography, gesture and chant, rhythm conveys the story.

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« hawaiian soul »

Women: Hālau Ke‘ala ‘O Kamailelauli‘ili‘i of Federal Way in Washington State. Photo at left: Their kumu, Kamaile Hamada Men: Hālau Keali‘i O Nālani of Los Angeles

The Heartbeat of Hula Photography by nInA KunA and RyAn SIPHERS

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A few years ago, I witnessed an astonishing performance at the Merrie Monarch Festival. A handsome young kumu hula (hula teacher) strode onto the stage, carrying an enormous staff. Chanting melodiously, Kau‘ionālani Kamana‘o stamped his staff against the floor, and struck it repeatedly with a small stick. As the clear peal of native kauila wood rang out, the dancers of Hula Hālau o Kamuela flowed from the four corners of the stage to its center.

Each dancer placed a papa hehi (wooden treadle) at her feet, and raised a pair of kālā‘au (percussive sticks). Swaying as one, the dancers clacked their sticks against their neighbor’s, and tapped a second rhythm on the treadles. Each tap reverberated through the auditorium like the Earth’s own heartbeat.

The sounds of hula kahiko, the oldest style of Hawaiian dance, are deep, resonant, and hypnotic. In contrast to modern hula (which is typically accompanied by Western-derived stringed instruments, such as the slack-key guitar or ‘ukulele), ancient hula is purely percussive. Hula kahiko dancers often make their own music, and, as I discovered while watching Hula Hālau o Kamuela, the sounds are as significant as the movements. The creation and mastery of traditional hula implements is both an art and a sacred practice passed down through generations.

To learn more, I consulted with Hōkūlani Holt. She comes from a long line of kumu hula, and has the regal carriage and natural expressiveness of a lifelong hula practitioner. Trained by her mother, the renowned Leiana Long Woodside, Holt opened her own hālau (school), Pa‘u o Hi‘iaka, in the 1970s.

courtesy of Marsha aguon and hawaiiana PhotograPhy

Story by

SHAnnon WIAnECKI

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Jul-Aug 2014

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YEARS OF SHARING MAUI STORIES

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« HAWAIIAN SOUL »

1 YEAR (6 ISSUES) $24 844-808-MAUI (6284)

Now that federal funds to restore “the Target Island” have dried up, Kaho‘olawe’s caretakers are scrambling to maintain the work of healing this sacred place.

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You don’t have to be very old to remember when bomb blasts shook the windows and rattled the silverware of homes all along South and West Maui. Anyone conscious during the late 1970s can recall with a thrill the rising up of Hawaiians and their supporters to demand that the bombing stop. Today, schoolkids learn about the Hawaiian Renaissance, when the indigenous people dared to tell the U.S. Navy: “It’s not okay to destroy a Hawaiian island. Put it back the way you found it.” To the uninformed, it looks as though the Navy fixed a few things and left. The truth is more complex.

Kaho‘olawe is the eighth largest Hawaiian island, one of four that constitute the County of Maui. It sends no representatives to the state legislature, though, because Kaho‘olawe is both uninhabited and uninhabitable. Too much UXO— unexploded ordnance. The United States began bombing the island during the 1920s, not long after territory-hood, escalated during World War

II, then increasingly through the Cold War. Today you can’t stick a shovel in the ground without risk of blowing up. Even in areas cleared to the depth of four feet—9 percent of the island— erosion exposes previously undiscovered bombs.

And erosion continues to despoil Kaho‘olawe.

Nearly two million tons of soil are washed into the sea each year, leaving behind slick slopes of hardpan, barren and bloody red.

Yet this callused and stern terrain includes some 3,000 features listed with the National Register of Historic Places. From the summit of its single volcanic peak—one-seventh the height of the mountain six miles away, sunrise-blocking Haleakalā—you can observe the winds and currents that rush between the islands. Kaho‘olawe was once a navigational training center for Hawaiians; its name was Kanaloa, god of the sea.

Some 800 documented archeological sites provide evidence that people lived, fished, farmed, and worshiped here before Western contact.

BOB BANGERTER

Story by Paul Wood

Kaho‘olawe’s environmental disaster started in 1793 with the introduction of goats, which scrambled over the fragile dry hillsides, gobbling native vegetation for the next sixty years. In 1858, the Kingdom issued ranching leases for the island. The ranchers planted kiawe (mesquite) trees, which produced good feed, but sucked up groundwater and desiccated their surroundings.

By the early 1900s, not even famed Maui cattleman Angus McPhee could make his Kaho‘olawe ranch viable. Knowing that U.S. warships had been doing target practice nearby, he subleased his ranch to the Navy in May 1941. Seven months later, all hell broke loose at Pearl Harbor.

In 1953 President Dwight Eisenhower ordered the island reserved for U.S. Navy purposes. But he also directed the Navy to eradicate all clovenhoofed animals, cooperate with reforestation efforts, and “when the island was no longer needed . . . and without cost to the Territory of Hawaii, make the island safe for human habitation.”

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Nov–Dec 2015

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Business as Usual

This year, in honor of the 25th anniversary of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, we are celebrating beloved local businesses that have stood the test of time. Here are four of our favorites. Story by Heidi Pool

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family of contractors reflects on the company’s core values, which have endured over the past century.

“When people come to work for us, they join our family,” Steve explains. “We care about our employees’ well-being beyond the workplace.” This innate sense of responsibility literally goes back 100 years: While running that initial 1921 road-construction project, the Goodfellow brothers opened a night school for their immigrant Greek and Italian workers to help them pass their U.S. citizenship test.

The ’70s brought an opportunity for GBI to partner with Boeing on a sewage-treatment plant in Kīhei, and Steve’s father (Jim Goodfellow Jr.) relocated the company’s headquarters to Maui. Since then, GBI has completed numerous infrastructure projects on the island, including the Central Maui Regional Sports Complex in 2017, the Upcountry Skate Park in 2018, an environmentally friendly car rental facility at Kahului Airport in 2019, and permanent repairs to

COURTESY OF GOODFELLOW BROS. INC.

GOODFELLOW BROS., INC. Est. 1921 Armistice Day in 1918 officially marked the end of World War I. Shortly thereafter, three brothers by the name of Goodfellow — Jim, Bert and Jack — found themselves in a Paris cafe discussing their future plans. They all wished to return home and lend postwar assistance to the country they’d just served, and under the GI Bill, the trio obtained degrees from the University of Washington: Jim majored in engineering, while Bert and Jack studied business and finance.

When the chance to bid on a road construction job arose in 1921, the brothers melded their talents and formed Goodfellow Bros., Inc. (GBI), based in Wentachee, Washington. “They wanted to build roads so farmers could take their products to market, and dams so people could have electricity in their homes,” recalls Jim’s grandson, Steve, the current chairman of the board for GBI. The company was awarded the project — extending Swakane Road in Wenatchee, Washington — and used horse-drawn Fresno scrapers — the precursor to most modern-day earth-movers — to complete the task. In 1933, GBI played a critical role in the construction of the Grand Coulee Dam near Spokane, which required the excavation of some two million yards of earth and stone.

Today, with approximately 1,300 employees and decades of collective experience under their tool belts, this hard-hat-wearing

Clockwise from top left: Goodfellow Bros. was hired to demolish the old Kahului airport parking lot, build a new one, and provide mass excavation and embankment for the new rental-car facility. CEO Chad Goodfellow stands among the rubble on a project. Chairman of the board Steve Goodfellow.

ISLAND BUSINESS

COURTESY OF GOODFELLOW BROS. INC.

Above: GBI collaborates with some of the biggest names in design, including Jack Nicklaus, Arnold Palmer and Robert Trent Jones, Jr., to create championship courses in the world’s most exquisite settings, such as this beautiful course in Wailea. Middle (left to right): Jim Goodfellow Sr., former Hawai‘i Governor George Ariyoshi and Steve Goodfellow at the ground blessing for the Pi‘ilani Highway Project in 1978. Bottom: In September 2016, ‘Īao Valley experienced one of the largest floods in Maui’s history. GBI responded the same day the County requested assistance, and immediately began clearing the debris.

an airport taxiway in 2020. “Our company wouldn’t be where it is today without the support of our Maui clients,” says Steve.

Steve’s son Chad, CEO and fourth-generation GBI leader, expresses gratitude toward the local community. “Maui has done so much for our family and we believe it’s our responsibility to help the island whenever we can,” he says.

GBI has acquired some unique tools and machines which enable them to contribute to emergency-response efforts, flood relief and wildfire control. For example, in the Hāli‘imaile and Olowalu fires in 2020, they employed a new high-tech system called ICRI (incident command radio interoperability) to connect the Maui Fire Department and GBI crews with the helicopters performing the water drops.

“Over [the course of a century], people, equipment and processes change,” says Steve. “But you should never change your core values — who you are, how you show respect and how you interact with the community.”

“Anyone can buy equipment and do what we do,” adds Chad.

“What makes us different is we don’t simply say these are our values — we actually live them.”

Goodfellow Bros., Inc., 1300 N. Holopono St., Suite 201, Kīhei | 808.879.5205 | GoodfellowBros.com | IG/FB @goodfellowbros Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul-Aug 2021

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ISLAND BUSINESS

ROSELANI ICE CREAM Est. 1932 The Nobriga family has been making Roselani artisan ice cream the exact same way for nearly 90 years: completely from scratch, one batch at a time, using time-tested recipes developed by patriarch Manuel Nobriga.

“Most companies produce ice cream in 15 minutes,” says fourth-generation ice-cream-maker Buddy James Nobriga. “Ours requires three hours.

It’s a very slow process, like cooking a pot of stew.”

There are currently 47 flavors of Roselani ice cream, and Nobriga says that suggestions from the community often provide inspiration for new ones.

Roselani’s distinctive green, gold and rose-colored carton makes it easy to spot in the freezer section, and Nobriga shares an exciting inside scoop: “This summer, we’re introducing pint-sized containers with a completely new design,” he says. Now that’s some very cool news!

Roselani Ice Cream, 918 Lower Main St., Wailuku | 808.244.7951 | Roselani.com | IG @roselaniicecream

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COURTESY OF ROSELANI ICE CREAM

Clockwise from top left: The Nobriga family purchased Maui Soda & Ice Works in 1946. Here, attendees of a 1960s Hawai‘i Coca-Cola Bottlers meeting stand outside the main office. Maui Soda & Ice Works drivers and staff pose with their delivery fleet (circa 1950). Fourth-generation ice-cream-maker Buddy James Nobriga oversees the development of new flavors, such as Mango ‘n Cream. Workers in the Roselani ice-creamproduction room (from left to right), Virginia Delacruz, Christina Corpuz and David “Uncle Buddy” Nobriga, fill three-gallon ice cream tubs (circa 1970).

ISLAND BUSINESS

Patti Gardner in Maui Marble & Granite’s first showroom in Kahului (far left) before the company built and relocated to their current location in Wailuku (left).

TOP: COURTESY OF PATTI GARDNER | BOTTOM: COURTESY OF MEGAN NAKASHIMA

MAUI MARBLE & GRANITE Est. 1980 Step into Maui Marble & Granite’s 2,200-square-foot showroom in Wailuku, and you’ll be immediately inspired to remodel your kitchen — or maybe a bathroom (or two). Husband-and-wife duo Lee and Patti Gardner guide clients through the process: Patti, a largely self-taught stone expert with a keen eye for design, helps them

select their stone, then Lee, a master fabricator, makes their dream home project a reality. These days, Zoom technology is helpful, allowing clients to see inventory in real time. “Our customers feel more confident about decisions when they actually see what they’re getting,” Patti explains.

MM&G makes everything from simple backsplashes to half-ton countertops. “Right now, we’re [doing] a kitchen installation on the eighth floor of a condo in Kā‘anapali,” says Patti. “We’ll use a crane to lift the slab over the lānai and will bring it inside through the sliding-glass doors.”

Maui Marble & Granite, 874 Alua St., Wailuku | 808.242.8400 | MauiMarbleandGranite.net | IG @maui_marble_granite | FB @Maui-Marble-Granite-Inc

Left: Three generations of the Nakashima family in the early 1990s: (from left) Aric, Robin (with Jayson), Moriaki (with Megan) and Sumiko. Above: Opening day in 1955.

PUKALANI SUPERETTE Est. 1955 When Megan Nakashima’s great-grandparents built Pukalani Superette, there wasn’t much more to the surrounding area than guava trees and pig farms. But “Puk Sup” (pook soop), as it is affectionately called by locals, withstood the test of time and still stands sentinel at the busy intersection of Makawao Avenue and Old Haleakalā Highway.

Even competition from a nearby Foodland market couldn’t sink the Superette. “We’ve created lasting relationships with our customers, many of whom have shopped here since the ’60s,” says

Nakashima, president, brand manager and director of community outreach. “We’re constantly evolving in terms of what products we offer. Right now, we’re focusing on healthier eating and madeon-Maui items.”

What hasn’t changed is Puk Sup’s reputation for high-quality, fresh produce. “We process everything by hand,” explains Nakashima. “It’s the ultimate quality-control system.”

Pukalani Superette, 15 Makawao Ave., Pukalani | 808.572.7616 | PukalaniSuperette.com | IG @pukalanisuperette | FB @pukalani.superette Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul-Aug 2021

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ADVENTURE

Above: A bird’s-eye view of the Waihe‘e Ridge Trail. Inset, from top: yellow ‘ōhi‘a lehua, le‘ie, uluhe. Far right: Nā Ala Hele added steps to some of the steeper and slipperier slopes, making the hillside a veritable wilderness Stairmaster.

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“The first 200 yards, you’ll ask yourself, Why did I come on this hike?

After that, you’ll know why.”

Waihe‘e’s infamous cement driveway appears to be level and easy. It is neither.

Waihe‘e Stream — one of four comprising Nā Wai Eha — winds through Waihe‘e Gorge far below.

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ADVENTURE

BAMBOO ORCHID: FOREST & KIM STARR

Clockwise from top: ‘ōhelo berries, Makamaka‘ole Falls, a Hawaiian bamboo orchid

It’s the kind of Maui morning that’s ideal for a hike: sun peeking through cottony clouds, trade winds riffling grasses and treetops — the perfect day to trek 2.5 miles while gaining 1,563 feet in elevation in pursuit of a panorama.

Waihe‘e Ridge Trail is one of the island’s best hikes, an opportunity to get off the beaten path and rack up some serious cardio while enjoying breathtaking scenery. Part of the State of Hawai‘i’s Nā Ala Hele system, the trail is well maintained and well marked. Today, we are on an interpretive hike into this vital forest reserve, led by staff from the Mauna Kahālāwai Watershed Partnership (also called the West Maui Mountains Watershed Partnership).

“The first 200 yards, you’ll ask yourself, Why did I come on this hike?” says John Comcowich, field crew supervisor for the partnership.

“After that, you’ll know why.” Comcowich is referring to the notoriously steep cement driveway leading to the Waihe‘e Ridge trailhead.

Grasses outline its edges along with an abundance of brilliant purple vervain, a wildflower that tastes like mushrooms; Hawaiians call it ōwī and use it to treat cuts and bruises.

Also on the hike is ornothologist Laura Berthold from the Maui Forest Bird Recovery Project. She notes that the birds we hear as we begin our climb are Japanese bush-warblers — little gray inhabitants of the forest understory — that are easily identified by their call: pichu, pichu, pichu.

Hamstrings screaming, hearts pounding, we veer off the murderous driveway and onto the trail toward a dense canopy of trees. Here, we catch our first glimpse of Makamaka‘ole Falls, a 270-foot cascade. A metal gate leads into the forest reserve, and beneath the stately Norfolk

pines, sturdy eucalyptus and Queensland maples, the air feels cool and moist. Recent rains have muddied the earth, and we gingerly negotiate an intricate web of roots and rocks while branches above creak and sough in the wind.

What we call “the West Maui Mountains" is actually a single, extinct volcano, and while there is some dispute among Hawaiians, its original name may have been Kahālāwai — “the meeting.” Waihe‘e belonged to Ka‘ahumanu, the favorite wife of Kamehameha the Great, and was designated a place of refuge. Those convicted of a crime who reached it would be spared punishment or death.

These 50,000 acres of native forest and vegetation comprise an irreplaceable watershed which continually recharges underground aquifers and provides clean water for streams. In 1998, conservationists and landowners established the West Maui Watershed Partnership, (now known as the Mauna Kahālāwai Watershed Partnership), to protect it from invasive species, such as wild pigs, which program coordinator Chris Brosius compares to rototillers. In one day, he says, a single pig can root up a piece of land the size of a football field, creating gaps in the soil into which aggressive, invasive plants may take hold. “Our job is to eradicate invasive species ... and to remove and fence out feral animals from pristine areas,” says Brosius.

As we progress into the forest, the humidity compounds. Thickets of native ‘uluhe surround the trail. Comcowich says this fern can grow up to seven feet tall and plays an important role in the watershed by capturing moisture from clouds, even when it’s not raining. I can feel their steaminess as I pass by.

We arrive at a ridgeline where the native forest begins. “Endemic Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul-Aug 2021

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From the trail, the view stretches into the distance — the sprawl of Maui’s Central Valley; The crown of Haleakalā disappears into the clouds.

Opposite: Looking left toward Kahakuloa and that iconic crag that lies around the bend.

plants are essential to the preservation of Hawaiian culture,” says Brosius. “They’re used to make lei, dye and tapa [barkcloth], and are used in hula and other practices.” The immense Waihe‘e Gorge, once home to the largest kalo (taro) fields on Maui, opens off to our left, and the sound of Waihe‘e Stream coursing over stones rises from below; to the right — the deep blue ocean and majestic Makamaka‘ole Gulch.

Brosius explains that this ridge receives about 120 inches of rain annually, and that about 80 percent of the island’s tap water begins in Kahālāwai. “Right above us is Pu‘u Kukui, the highest peak, which receives upwards of 365 inches of rain per year, rivaling the wettest spots on Earth,” he says.

Near mile marker 1.0 we go through a wooden gate erected to keep out feral ungulates, and suddenly the air fills with a pungent, fruity smell. Brosius identifies the source: a huge stand of strawberry guava.

One of the most invasive species in the Hawaiian Islands, guava has claimed thousands of acres on Maui over the past 200 years. “It uses much more water than native species and prohibits the growth of the forest understory, [hampering its ability to] prevent rainwater runoff and erosion," says Brosius. He again cites feral pigs as a player in this battle of the species, and notes that a single pig can scatter an astounding eight million guava seeds during spring and summer, the peak fruiting seasons.

We traverse a series of exposed, windy switchbacks, a stretch which generates some intense huffing and puffing. But it's worth the effort: the higher we ascend, the more spectacular the view. Tall green ti plants sway as if already adorning the hips of graceful hula dancers, and we encounter red ‘ōhi‘a lehua, the Islands’ most common native tree, with brilliant flower tufts resembling bottlebrush. ‘Ōhi‘a is the name of the tree; lehua is the blossom, and both are steeped in Hawaiian mythology. Indigenous ‘ama‘u (tree ferns) dot the scrubby landscape,

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their fronds emerging like umbrella spokes from their trunks.

Ahead, a fellow hiker points out mile marker 1.5, which means we only have a mile left to go. This does wonders for my stamina and I forge ahead along a row of paperbark trees. This tree is a member of the Australian genus melaleuca in the myrtle family, and its fibrous bark peels away in tissue-paper-thin layers of muted cream, pink, orange and brown. Nearby, wild Hawaiian bamboo orchids display white-and-maroon petals and vivid purple lips.

The trail slopes slightly downhill and becomes rather boggy, but I enjoy the respite from climbing and the opportunity to catch my breath. Berthold calls our attention to the high-pitched cheeping of the Japanese white-eye, named for the telltale ring around its eye on an otherwise bright green head. “They have the same foraging habits as ‘apapane and ‘amakihi [Hawaiian honeycreepers],” she says of this invasive species. “They compete with native birds for limited food resources.”

Clouds spill into the verdant crevasses to our left, veiling them with mist. At mile marker 2.0, Moloka‘i comes into view, and beyond, O‘ahu. Brosius points out ‘ōhelo, a native shrub known for its edible red berries. When the berries are ripe, locals gather them to make preserves and pie filling. I taste one; it’s bitter. This batch has a ways to go before it's ready for harvest.

The terrain is now muddy and slippery, but one last, short push brings us to Lanilili (“Small Heaven”) Peak, 2,563 feet above the sea.

Here, our prize awaits: a staggering 360-degree vista of lush mountains, shimmering ocean dotted with whitecaps and the imposing facade of Haleakalā. Exhilarated, I take it all in; the hike was indeed worth the price of wobbly legs and groaning knees.

As we take a well-deserved rest, I unwrap my turkey sandwich and soon rediscover one of hiking’s greatest truths: a sandwich, even

ADVENTURE

slightly squished, always tastes best when eaten atop a mountain.

“There’s no other place like this in Kahālāwai,” says Brosius. He points out a rare orange ‘ōhi‘a lehua at the summit and a Monarch-like butterfly floating by on a thermal. It's a pulelehua, or Kamehameha, butterfly, one of only two species native to Hawai‘i and the state’s official insect.

Though you wouldn't think so, descending Waihe‘e Ridge is also a challenge; it's easy to become distracted by the view and lose your footing. But not being breathless allows me to notice things I missed on the ascent: the beauty of red ‘ōhi‘a blossoms against a backdrop of deep green vegetation and the cobalt sea, the sun illuminating massive fingers of rock that tickle the ridge, a bank of gray-and-white clouds punctuating the ocean, and a litany of damp, earthy smells. We pass several hikers just starting off, their flushed faces a solid confirmation that we were wise to get an early start on this trail.

Brosius took photos of several areas along the way in need of maintenance and attention. He wants to preserve Waihe‘e Ridge Trail as an interpretive experience, giving more people the opportunity to connect with Kahālāwai and understand what it takes to care for it. “I hope today we’ve shown you the value of protecting this watershed,” he says. “It would be impossible to replace it.”

Mauna Kahālāwai Watershed Partnership | 808.661.6600 | maunakahalawai.org | IG/FB @mauna.kahalawai This story was originally published in our Jul-Aug 2012 issue.

IF YOU GO Waihe‘e Ridge Trail is located off Kahekili Highway (#340). Across from Mendes Ranch, turn left up Maluhia Road and go 0.9 miles. A sign on the fence marks the trailhead. Don’t want to hike the entire trail? Stop at the bench just past the 0.5 mile marker or the one just before the 1.0 marker; both have marvelous views. Note: There are no restrooms or drinking water on the trail.

THE LEGEND OF ‘ŌHI‘A & LEHUA ‘Ōhi‘a and Lehua were young lovers. The volcano goddess Pele fell in love with the handsome warrior ‘Ōhi‘a, but he rebuffed her. In a fit of jealousy, Pele transformed ‘Ōhi‘a into a gnarled tree.

Lehua was devastated, and begged the other gods to turn ‘Ōhi‘a back into a human. Instead, the gods turned Lehua into a beautiful red flower and placed her upon the ‘ōhi‘a tree. Separating these lovers by picking a lehua flower has consequences: the sky will fill with raindrops representing their tears.

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SHARK

Daniel Sullivan (left) and son, Tristan, hold up their kayak, displaying the massive, spinechilling bite from a great white shark.

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MNKO EXCLUSIVE

KT A L E Regular Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi photographer Daniel Sullivan recounts how he came face-to-face with a great white shark — and survived.

Story and photos by Daniel Sullivan

ebruary 2nd, 2021, was the most perfect day. The seasonal island rains and winds had finally subsided and the forecast showed clear skies. The week prior, my teenage son, Tristan, and I had tied our old orange kayak to the top of our van in anticipation of a fatherson whale-watching trip. Today was that day.

Our destination was Ukumehame beach just south of Olowalu along the West Maui coast. I put my camera (already in its waterproof housing), my phone and the car keys into a red dry bag and strapped it to the kayak. The waves were bigger than we’d expected, and we had wait, timing our launch correctly in between sets so as not to be flipped over. Finally, we got it right and paddled out over the reef, Tristan in the front of the boat and myself in the back.

We left the beach at 11:35 a.m. I know this because Tristan doublechecked the time as we departed so we’d know how long it would take us to paddle back in.

The water was like glass, the perfect combination of aquamarine, emerald and turquoise. The reef below was a collection of dancing pastels, and brain-like coral heads peeked out of the water; it was low tide.

As we paddled toward the channel, the wind and waves picked up, blowing against us. Our strokes became a struggle.

“At least it will be easier getting back in,” I said. “The wind will be at our backs.”

We reached the channel — a deep, dark infinity. We stopped paddling and drifted, allowing the rolling waves to lift and lower us in synchronous rhythm. Sometimes, if you’re quiet and listen closely, you can hear the whales singing through your boat: the hollow shape of the kayak acts as a large speaker, amplifying their song.

There was a loud crack — the sound of a fin slapping the water.

Several hundred yards off to the right, a whale tail rose up out of the ocean. Nearby, a baby whale also flipped up its tail, mimicking its mother. Two dolphins leapt and landed with a splash, as if ushering the whales through the channel, and a large escort whale brought up the rear.

So far, this day was already more than we could have hoped for.

“I think they’re coming toward us,” said Tristan. He was right.

The waters around Hawai‘i are a protected federal marine sanctuary, and it is unlawful to purposely come within 200 yards of a whale.

However, if the whales choose to approach you, the prevailing advice is to remain still and calm until they pass. This is called a “mugging,” when whales get curious and surround your boat. Sometimes they even lift their heads to have a good look at the strange surface-dwellers in their odd floating contraptions.

We were being mugged.

As the whales approached our kayak, I was as nervous as I was excited. To have an adult humpback — the length of about three Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul-Aug 2021

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MNKO EXCLUSIVE

Dolphins often swim with whales ... but they are also known to swim with sharks; they eat a lot of the same foods.

IN MANY WAYS A SHARK ATTACK FEELS LIKE A HEART ATTACK — KICKING, FLAILING, FIGHTING FOR AIR — YOUR CHEST SEIZES UP WITH FEAR AND YOU’RE NOT SURE YOU’LL SURVIVE. BUT THIS IS NO WAY TO DIE.

For Tristan, the fateful day initially promised a peaceful paddle with his dad.

school buses lined up end-to-end — emerge alongside our 12-foot fiberglass kayak was humbling, to say the least.

The surreal pod surrounded us. Mother and calf swam right beside our boat. I pulled my camera out of the dry bag and slowly, quietly, slipped it into the water off the side of the kayak, taking several shots of them as they passed.

The calf flopped about in the waves, clumsy and awkward, like a toddler learning to take his first steps. Tristan and I smiled at each other, marveling at the sublime perfection of nature.

Suddenly, we were struck from the left, and as our boat shot up and out of the water, I saw something straight out of a horror movie: a pointed head with serrated teeth clamping down on the kayak just inches from my legs. It was a great white shark.

Everything went flying — fins, camera, bags — then the shark pulled the kayak down, dumping us into the water. I was still holding my paddle and as I struggled to get my bearings, the shark turned

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toward me; it was bigger than our kayak.

I had always been told that if you were attacked by a shark that you should punch it in the nose, which seemed an absurd idea, especially since I had never even punched a person. But now, fear and adrenaline took over and I exploded, hitting the shark again and again with the end of my paddle. It swung away from me and turned toward Tristan who was swimming to retrieve my camera. He would later tell me that, until that moment, he thought a whale had breached and knocked us over.

“Tristan, shark! Get in the boat! Shark!” I yelled.

He quickly swam back and we frantically worked to right the kayak.

It was then that I saw the catastrophic, mouth-shaped bite. We scrambled back into the boat and lay down on the bottom, but the kayak was no longer buoyant. Water poured in through the sharktooth holes and we began to sink.

“We’re going to have to swim for it,” I said.

“Let’s just call 911,” said Tristan. It was, of course, what we had always taught him. But we were much too far away from shore for anyone to arrive in time to rescue us. And the shark was still under our boat; I could hear its nose repeatedly hitting the bottom.

“We’re going to have to swim, baby,” I said to this young man. I hadn’t called him baby since he was four years old, riding on my shoulders.

Hearts in our throats, we got back into the water and swam away as fast as we could ... but I was getting nowhere. The tow rope was wrapped around my leg, and as the kayak sank, it was also pulling me under. I dove underneath the water and quickly untied myself, all the while searching the infinite blue for anything shaped like a shark.

I surfaced right next to my dry bag; I grabbed it.

“Get out the phone! Call 911!” Tristan shouted.

I unrolled the bag and pulled out the phone. I tried to unlock it with my wet fingers. I tried to use face ID. I implored Siri to call 911,

Sullivan snapped this shot of mother and calf during a “mugging” in which the entire pod approached and surrounded their kayak.

Moments later, the shark hit.

but she was unresponsive. All the while we were swimming, trying to put distance between ourselves and the shark. Waves pushed against us, and I couldn’t tell if we were making any progress.

Exhaustion was already sinking in.

“Are we even moving?” Tristan asked, as if reading my thoughts.

I looked back at the sinking kayak; it was about 50 yards away.

“We’re good, we’re getting closer to shore,” I said, knowing very well that the beach was at least a mile away.

Tristan took the phone from me and tried in vain to activate it. But the screen turned white, and then faded to black as it died. He looked at me, distraught.

“We have to keep swimming,” I said. “Hold onto the other side of my camera and swim with me.” I knew the bulky plastic-and-glass housing could be used as a weapon if the shark returned.

“Just 10 strokes, then we’ll take a break,” I said. One, two three ... I counted them off in my head. At the break I put my head underwater and stared into the abyss beneath. There was no sign of the shark, but that didn’t make me feel any better. I surfaced. My body was heavy, my energy and adrenaline spent from the attack. I felt like I might sink. Tristan swimming next to me was the only thing that was keeping me going.

“We’re not getting any closer,” Tristan said.

“Of course we are,” I said with what I hoped sounded like confi-

dence. “Just a little further. We can do this.”

Then we heard a boat.

“Help!” we yelled with everything we had.

A small, white fishing boat carrying three men appeared, skimming along close to where the kayak had been. It slowed and the three men peered at us.

“Help! Help!” we called, waving our arms. But instead of coming to our rescue, the boat took off.

Tristan cursed at them and ranted with more emotion than I’d seen from him in years. “Why didn’t they stop?” he asked.

“I don’t know, but we’ve got to keep swimming,” I replied. Ten strokes, rest. Ten strokes, rest. This was our mantra of survival for what seemed like an eternity.

During a break I looked down into the water again. This time, instead of seeing the boundless blue of fear and uncertainty, I saw the bright white, green and gold of the reef. I popped up and looked ahead of us. In the distance, a line of cars raced along the highway.

I noticed that the water was also warmer, and I felt … hope.

With new energy we swam toward shore. Our feet hit bottom and we climbed over the rocks, gasping. We sat next to each other, catching our breath, slowing our heart rates and taking stock of what had just happened.

“We’re alive,” I said. I grasped Tristan’s shoulder. He looked at me, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul-Aug 2021

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exhausted and in shock. At that moment, I realized that he was a man. His childhood was behind him now forever, and this young man had handled this singular, brutal coming-of-age experience with utter courage. My chest ached with love and respect for my son, my survivor, and together we watched the waves gently lap the shore, as if trying to smooth away the raw edges of our experience.

What Are the Chances?

The Sullivans’ encounter with a great white shark is indeed the thing of nightmares, and nothing about their experience should be minimized, downplayed or taken lightly.

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That being said, shark attacks are extremely rare.

“The number of shark attacks in Hawai‘i is very low, and most of the attacks that do occur are not fatal,” says Kim Holland, Ph.D., research professor at The Shark Lab at the Hawai‘i Institute of Marine Biology in O‘ahu.

Statistically speaking, your chance of being attacked by a shark is about 1 in 11.5 million, and your chance of actually being killed by a shark is 1 in 264 million, according to the Florida Museum of Natural History. For comparison’s sake, you have a 1 in 127 chance of dying from tripping, slipping or falling down, according to the National Safety Council; the odds of being killed in a car crash is 1 in 114; and your chance of dying from a gunshot is 1 in 6,905, according to the Florida Museum of Natural History.

Though the odds are against it, attacks do happen and there are a number of ways you can prevent a terrifying encounter.

“The best thing you can do is swim with a friend or in an area with a lot of people,” says Holland. “Most shark attacks are nonlethal, and fatalities are usually due to blood loss or shock.

Getting help from others dramatically increases your chances of survival.”

Also, avoid swimming in areas where rivers empty into the sea. “Tiger sharks are responsible for most of the attacks in Hawai‘i, and when they get large, they begin to eat more carrion,” says Holland.

“Dead fish and animals are often found at river mouths, especially after heavy rains or a flood event.”

Similarly, stay out of the ocean if the water is muddy or murky after a rain, because if you can’t see the shark, the shark can’t see you. “It’s partly speculation, but in my experience, if you see a shark and the shark is aware that you see it, an attack is less likely,” says Holland. “Tiger sharks especially are

cautious and check out their prey before committing to an attack. If they feel like they have been observed, they become more cautious and are even less likely to attack.”

Common sense dictates that you shouldn’t swim around fishing boats or harbors, but other safety tips that seem sensible, such as staying out of the water if you have a small cut or if you’re menstruating, are mostly a byproduct of paranoia.

“Sharks do have an incredible sense of smell, but they are not super animals and can’t hone in on a cut on your foot and track you down from miles away,” says Holland. “There is no situation where that could happen, especially in energetic waters like we have around Hawai‘i.”

It is also important to remember that we are visitors in an oceanic kingdom where sharks rule the reef. These apex predators play a crucial role in maintaining balance in the marine ecosystem, and though movies would have you believe otherwise, sharks don’t purposefully hunt you down; they are simply going about the business of being a shark when they come across a human being swimming on their turf.

Unfortunately, widespread fear of sharks and media sensationalism have vilified these essential creatures.

According to the Shark Trust — a nonprofit whose mission is to safeguard sharks — human activities such as overfishing (which can result in shark bycatch) and the illegal practice of finning (slicing off a shark’s fins for soup and discarding the still-living shark to die), is pushing many species to the precipice of extinction.

So yes, be aware of yourself and your surroundings when you’re in the ocean, but don’t let fear get the best of you.

Because if there’s anything you should take away here, it’s that your chances of having a shark encounter such as the Sullivans’ is extremely rare.

“Millions of people swim in Hawaiian waters every year,” says Holland. “The amazing thing is not how many shark attacks there are in Hawai‘i, it’s how few attacks there are.”

HAWAIIAN SOUL

Hāna’s families teach acclaimed chefs about living off the land — and remind themselves what it means to be Hawaiian.

STORY BY LEHIA APANA | PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN BROCK

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Hāna fishermen lead visiting chefs to a favorite fishing site in Mu‘olea, the ahupua‘a (traditional land division) stewarded

by Nā Mamo o Mu‘olea, a nonprofit dedicated to protecting the area’s abundant cultural and natural resources.

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Chef Andrew Le practices his net-throwing technique, hoping to land some fresh-caught fish like the ‘enenue (rudderfish) and ‘āholehole (flagtail) above. A James Beard semifinalist, Le owns O‘ahu’s wildly popular The Pig and The Lady.

“I’m out of my element!” hollers Andrew Le, owner and executive chef of The Pig and the Lady on O‘ahu. Like a player in a game of Twister, he stretches one elbow to the sky and tucks his other arm behind his back, only his broad stance keeping him upright. He lets out a jittery laugh before acknowledging, “But that’s why I’m here.”

“Here” is Hāna, a remote town on Maui’s east coast that’s considered one of the last Hawaiian frontiers. Le has come to experience Hāna Kū, an invitation-only event that brings master chefs together with local fishermen, hunters and farmers. Held at Ala Kukui, a nonprofit center for Native Hawaiian advancement, these intimate weekends are equal parts cultural classroom and chef ’s table, sprinkled with Hāna charm.

Cloaked in a knotted throw net, Le crouches gingerly before releasing the glossy mesh in a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it burst. The net unfurls into a circle before landing on the grass, and raucous delight erupts from the dozen or so onlookers. This is just practice; the true test comes moments later as the group heads makai (toward the ocean) to fish for the evening’s ingredients. “‘Hāna kū’ is a saying Hāna residents use to describe the more rustic, backcountry people who live simply, yet richly,” says Kau‘i Kanaka‘ole, Ala Kukui executive director and the weekend’s host. She launched the series in 2016 to celebrate local families who embody this lifestyle.

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Since that time, Kanaka‘ole has joined the Akoi, Lind and Park families of Hāna — whose roots and ties to the area span generations — with a veritable Who’s Who lineup of Maui chefs, including Isaac Bancaco, former executive chef at Andaz Maui; Sheldon Simeon of Top Chef acclaim and owner of Tin Roof Restaurant Maui; Kyle Kawakami of the award-winning Maui Fresh Streatery food truck; and Bella Toland, former chef at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua’s, Banyan Tree, among others.

At today’s Hāna Kū, local fishermen arrive armed with diving fins, sundry fishing poles, spears and a trove of knowledge that their fathers and grandfathers passed down over a lifetime. Like a cast of ‘a‘ama crabs clinging to the charcoal-colored cliff, the fishermen and chefs scuttle past the surging surf below until they’re out of sight. Hours later, they return and pour their haul into an oversized cooler filled with ice.

By 5 p.m., a small and eclectic group has assembled on the grounds of Ala Kukui. At one end of the property, two men transform fresh kalo (taro) into poi, each strike of the pōhaku (stone) on the wooden papa (board) creating a familiar cadence that, for these residents, can only mean a feast is imminent. Kids of all ages scamper through the crowd, their laughter adding to the evening’s soundtrack.

The table at the center of the outdoor lānai is a food magnet, and every few minutes, a new dish gets squeezed into the spread.

Throughout the weekend, different versions of this scene will

OPPOSITE AND BOTTOM LEFT (2) PHOTOS: COURTESY OF ALA KUKUI / ALL OTHERS: KEVIN BROCK

HAWAIIAN SOUL

Chef Le shows off his newly acquired throwing skills. Small weights around the edge of the net help it spread across the water and sink to trap fish — when thrown correctly. “Andrew made a pretty circular throw on his second or third try,” says Kau‘i Kanaka‘ole, organizer of Hāna Kū. A few feet away, onlookers mentally prepare to test their own throwing skills.

Clockwise from left: Wild boars are an invasive species, but these three, dispatched just hours before by hunters Kini Oliveira (left) and Ioane Park, will be a savory dish at the upcoming feast. Kuikawa Park fetches a kūpīpī (blackspot damselfish). Hāna native Naihe Akoi (left) shows chef Mark Noguchi how to harvest vegetables for the evening’s meal.

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Clockwise from top: A traditional Hawaiian imu (underground earth oven) starts with a pit which is filled with rocks, firewood, ti leaves and banana stumps before being ignited; Ioane Park (left) and Nakua KonohiaLind carefully stack the rocks. Kia‘i Park (left) and Viliami Tukuafu ku‘i kalo (pound taro) during a recent Hāna Kū weekend. Abraham Park directs son Huaka as he fries reef fish caught just hours earlier.

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OPPOSITE, TOP: COURTESY OF ALA KUKUI / ALL OTHERS: KEVIN BROCK

In honoring Hawaiian principles and values, the Hāna community plays a foundational role in Ala Kukui’s policies, stewardship and operations. Here, a small group gathers on the deck of the center’s Retreat House.

Above: After a full day of learning and new experiences, chef Kyle Kawakami (left) of Maui Fresh Streatery food truck and chef Isaac Bancaco (right) are back in their kitchen comfort zone. Pan-seared root vegetables were harvested from Hāna’s community-supported Mahele Farm.

replay with each meal. The Hāna families provide the ingredients: lobster and fish caught just hours earlier, wild boar from the mountains and morsels of prized ‘opihi (limpets). Others gather produce from the Ala Kukui grounds and nearby Mahele Farm. In the kitchen, chefs talk story over chopping boards and steaming pots.

With no set itinerary or planned menu, these weekends unfold with an easy camaraderie. Impromptu dishes are inspired by the day’s bounty, and even though guests come and go throughout the day, everyone faithfully reappears just in time for meals.

Chef Bancaco, who has participated in several Hāna Kū weekends, sees food as a kind of icebreaker between the chefs and the families.

“When you go, you’re putting your heart on a plate to make that connection with the people of Hāna,” he says. The connection goes both ways, and each group learns from the other, inspired by their different skills and honored to be in one another’s company.

“These guys who live off the land don’t always see their lifestyle as

important for others to understand, but I think that starts to change [at] Hāna Kū,” says Kanaka‘ole.

Rick Rutiz agrees. An Ala Kukui board member, he’s also the founder of Ma Ka Hana Ka ‘Ike, a nonprofit program that teaches carpentry skills to Hāna youth.

“In our Western society, some of these guys are looked down upon because they don’t have a 40-hour-a-week job,” he says. “But they’re providers — for their families and the community — and perpetuators of cultural knowledge. I don’t believe the answers are all about getting high test scores and sending [the kids] off to some university.

A lot of them just want to [raise] a family and continue the ways of Hāna, and if that’s acknowledged by the outside as a sign of success, then we’re winning.”

These families may live a minimalist lifestyle, but throughout the weekend, they share both their enthusiasm and their secret places — something almost unheard of among area locals — and with good Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul-Aug 2021

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HAWAIIAN SOUL

Clockwise from above: Ala Kukui executive director Kau‘i Kanaka‘ole (left) and board secretary Moani Aiona are Hāna natives. Fresh fish, lobster and other ocean delicacies tempt tastebuds at a Sunday brunch during a Hāna Kū weekend. Chefs are all smiles at an ‘Aha ‘Āina celebration; From left: Isaac Bancaco, Mark Noguchi, Bella Toland, Sheldon Simeon and Mark Pomaski.

reason: many of Hāna’s residents live off the land and waters they so fiercely guard.

“A lot of Hāna people see this ‘ike [knowledge] as kapu [sacred] because our kūpuna [ancestors] taught us that it’s supposed to only go down in the family,” explains Nakua Konohia-Lind. The 24-year-old Hāna resident served as a crewmember on the voyaging canoe Hōkūle‘a which completed a three-year Mālama Honua Worldwide Voyage in 2017. That experience, he says, showed him the value of sharing cultural knowledge in order to preserve it for future generations.

“A lot of us Hāna people are so used to doing these things and keeping to ourselves, not realizing that what we do here can help our culture and people prosper,” explains Konohia-Lind. “With any kind of cultural practice — whether it’s hula, voyaging or lā‘au lapa‘au [medicine] — sharing it is a way to keep it going.”

“It’s good to see all the families come together, from the oldest ones getting pushed in the wheelchair to the babies in the stroller,” adds his brother Bronson Konohia-Lind. “It’s about the knowledge,

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tradition and culture being passed down from all these generations.”

For Kanaka‘ole, a former teacher at Hāna High School, the importance of subsistence skills extends beyond having fresh food. Rather than simply sharing their knowledge, she hopes Hāna’s families will be inspired to explore their own culture more deeply.

“Instead of just practicing these traditions, the hope is that they culturally identify with those places,” Kanaka‘ole says. “For example, how is that particular fish related to the name of the area and how does that relate to the tide and the moon?”

Hāna Kū is a step in that direction. “The Hāna families become the experts,” continues Kanaka‘ole. “I think it’s the first time they really see themselves in that light. They start to look at their practices as not just for feeding their family, but as continuing a cultural relationship with the land.”

WEB EXCLUSIVE Go to MauiMagazine.net/hana-ku to watch a video and learn more about this invaluable experience.

TABLE TOP PHOTO: COURTESY OF ALA KUKUI / ALL OTHERS: KEVIN BROCK

For Hawaiians, kukui (candlenut) trees are both a literal and spiritual source of light. Numerous kukui dot the grounds of Ala Kukui, whose name translates as “path of enlightenment.”

Stone Tile | Porcelain Tile | Granite & Stone Slabs | Quartz Slabs | Glass Tile Custom Fabrication & Installation In Stock & Special Order Cabinetr y 25 Kahului Beach Road, Kahului 808.871.7595 (tel) | 808.871.7059 (fax) www.CeramicTilePlus.com Contractor’s License #C32353

AT HOME

Life imitates art and art imitates life in this well-appointed Upcountry estate.

Story by Savy Janssen Photography by Steve Brinkman & Günter Pfannmüller

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Oasis

The full-length pool is a swimmer’s dream, and the perfect vantage point to witness a brilliant Maui sunset.

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Robert Longo’s “Angel Equipment” (2008) flies high above the living room over the porto gold-andblack fireplace, and his “Bodyhammer Glock 19” (1993) takes aim from behind cashmere-covered Hans J. Wegner “Papa Bear” chairs.

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AT HOME

quiet is intoxicating, even from the driveway. Artfully pruned trees lining the fiveplus-acre property seem to shush me as I slowly crest the hill to Ka Mauna Aloha, Marek Lieberberg’s estate in Kula.

“This is the museum of my life and the love of my life reflected in art,” says Lieberberg with a slow smile. Indeed, the property emits a sense of personal reflection, a devotion to creativity and immaculate attention to detail.

Lieberberg first came to the Islands after asking his travel agent to find a location that was “not too buggy.” That was 30 years ago, and the latter 15 of those years have been spent at Ka Mauna Aloha.

Lieberberg and his wife, Ingrid, initially bought property in Wailea. “But the longer we spent there, the more we began to want the privacy, quiet and green, natural beauty of Upcountry,” he says.

German architect-turned-friend Hans Riecke first showed Lieberberg the property upon which Ka Mauna Aloha now sits; at the time it was nothing but a hillside of brush and vine tangles. Inspired by turnof-the-century design aesthetics of architects such

From top: Lieberberg himself designed the Y-shaped motif which repeats in the windows, a unique identifier for the home. The dining room exudes luxurious simplicity with this impeccably crafted table, chairs and cabinet from George Nakashima.

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“This house has patina without being old,” says Lieberberg.

“It can pass the test of time.”

From top: The sauna, spa, outdoor shower and hot tub are just a few steps from the pool. From the light fixtures to the furniture, Lieberberg selected every piece himself, including this Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann coffee table, circa 1920-1922.

as Henry and Charles Greene, the Arts and Crafts movement at large, and Lieberberg’s own inclinations, the custom, 7,261-square-foot residence is a magnificent structure featuring three bedrooms, three baths, two half-baths, a chef’s kitchen, two offices and a library. “This house has patina without being old,” says Lieberberg. “It can pass the test of time, and that is something.”

The interior of the home conveys luxury, with tall ceilings, comfortable rooms and high-end building materials, such as giallo antico marble, African acacia and Jerusalem stone. The kitchen features side-by-side Sub-Zero refrigerators and two SubZero wine coolers, and in the basement — a wallto-wall wine rack.

Despite the fine furnishings and handsome details, the house feels uncomplicated. “I wanted something balanced, like an arithmetic equation,” says Lieberberg. Hence, the home was built with two wings — different, yet somehow equal — with one

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AT HOME

From literature and architecture to philosophy and art history — Lieberberg’s library reveals his eclectic curiousity.

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From top: Tuscany/Dorado granite countertops are the finishing touch in this chef’s kitchen. The detailed glass and woodwork in the vestibule pay homage to the Arts and Crafts movement of the early 19th century. Lieberberg sees every wall in the house as an opportunity to display art, even as you ascend the stairs.

housing the kitchen and master bedroom and the other accommodating the offices, library and guest rooms. And at an altitude of 2,700 feet, the climate is ideal — another balance: not too hot, not too cold.

Nature plays a big part in the home’s appeal.

Each room has either a coastal or mountain view, and many rooms open to the outdoors. Looking through the glass is like gazing at a painting into which you can actually walk, and in doing so, you are immediately surrounded by greenery, flowers and hundreds of mature trees. Adjacent to the house is a pool complex complete with spa, sauna and hot tub, and a short stroll across the grounds reveals a private yoga studio.

While structures and landscaping play a large role in the appeal of a home, for this estate, the intrigue is not just what was used to create it, but also what adorns it. Ingrid gave her husband his first piece of art — a vase by Koloman Moser — and so began his obsession with collecting. Every item — from plush couches to demure portraits, grand sculptures to tiny trinkets — has been carefully chosen by Lieberberg himself. “I am not guided by an advisor, but by my own fables,” he says. “I am the author of my own story and my own creator.”

His treasured pieces run the gamut of styles

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GÜNTER PFANNMÜLLER

AT HOME

From left: A bentwood and aluminium cabinet by Koloman Moser (1904) shares balcony space with twin vinyl-and-walnut Gio Ponti armchairs from the 1950s. Massive trees hug the driveway, sequestering the estate and imparting a sense of reverence and reflection.

HUE

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HOME LIFESTYLE DESIGN Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul-Aug 2021

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AT HOME

HUI NO‘EAU VISUAL ARTS CENTER

Experience

Art with Aloha

Open Wednesday-Saturday 9am – 4pm huinoeau.com • 2841 Baldwin Ave. Makawao, HI • 808-572-6560

In a guest room, a photograph of model Muriel Maxwell (1939) by Horst P. Horst hangs over a king-size black walnut bed (1963) by George Nakashima. “Egg Chair With Ottoman by Arne Jacobsen” (1958) sits in a sunny corner.

FEATURED AGENT: With ohana all over the state, Mya Awai has a deep love for and knowledge of the Hawaiian islands. Mya has almost 30 years’ experience living on Maui and will help you find the perfect home or condo. She recently represented Canadian buyers on their purchase of a vacation rental at Hale Pau Hana in Kihei. Give Mya a call - she is looking forward to unlocking the door to your Valley Isle dream home.

Our featured properties have either recently sold or are pending.

If you are looking to find your piece of paradise or to sell your Maui property - home, condo or vacant land - contact Equity One Real Estate, Inc. 808.572.6406 - www.livingmaui.com.

Mya Awai Lic # RS-80678, 808.344.4212 Mya@equityonemaui.com

LYNETTE PENDERGAST BIC Lic. # RB-21145 | Equity One Real Estate, Inc. | LivingMaui.com 808.633.3534 | Lynette@equityonemaui.com

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from art nouveau to art deco and everywhere in between, and include works from the likes of Émile Gallé, Hector Guimard, Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann and Eugene Printz. Color field paintings and conceptual art by Ed Ruscha, John McLaughlin and Carmen Herrera are among the standouts, as are several black-and-white photos by Horst P. Horst, Diane Arbus and Robert Mapplethorpe.

Some of Lieberberg’s art references Hawai‘i, and in fact, the first thing he bought for the estate was an antique poster advertising the 1910 Annual Flower Parade at the Mid Pacific Carnival in Honolulu; the poster now hangs on display in the foyer bath. “I generally refrain from joining the race for the ‘flavor of the moment,’” he says.

Lieberberg stays committed to a piece once he sets his eye on it. (He once waited and negotiated for a table for seven years!)

GÜNTER PFANNMÜLLER

Opposite, from top: The first thing Lieberberg bought for his estate was an antique poster advertising the 1910 Annual Flower Parade in Honolulu. The terrace grounds step down to an herb-andvegetable garden just below the pool.

GÜNTER PFANNMÜLLER

Each piece has a story and a personal connection, making the collection a true “kaleidoscope of personal perspectives and tastes without inhibition.”

This self-contained oasis has been the ultimate place to relax and rejuvenate and drink in the artistic beauty both indoors and out. But after 15 years of blissful ownership, Lieberberg has decided to sell his island Eden. “It has been my privilege to live here,” he says. “Ka Mauna Aloha is unlike anything else. It’s not someone else’s bizarre definition of luxury, [but rather] a life in harmony with art and lavish nature. I created something that I’m proud of and hope it will be regarded as a standard for unique living.”

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Dining

RYAN SIPHERS

‘Aipono Award-winning restaurant Kō at the Fairmont Kea Lani never disappoints. Indulge in their Filipino-style lumpia with green papaya salad and the macadamia nut-crusted catch of the day.

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KAWAKAMI & APANA: MIEKO HORIKOSHI / DOYLE: RYAN SIPHERS / FARRELL & LOUDERMILK: RMSHUTTERWORKS / ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

DINING

“It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, it was the season of light, it was the season of darkness, it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair, we had everything before us, we had nothing before us.”

Never has this quote from A Tale of Two Cities by Charles Dickens been more apt.

Pre-pandemic, Maui was thriving, bustling, busy, bright. And then ... it wasn’t. Like many places around the world, the economy here relies on tourism to survive. Restaurants were among the businesses that were hardest hit, and many were forced to close their doors forever. For those that remained, “reinventing” and “pivoting” became overnight buzzwords, and restaurant staff changed tack on a weekly basis to align with the ever-evolving edicts of the CDC and Hawai‘i’s governing bodies.

The thing is, even in good times, the profit margin of a restaurant hovers between 20 and 30 percent, so with the loss of patrons, payroll concerns and lease and utility bills, how could they survive?

How did they survive?

We spoke with the chefs, owners and managers of some of our favorite establishments. Their answers varied a little, but what we heard about most from them all was innovation, ‘ohana (family) and community. Here's how these remarkable restaurants stayed afloat and vowed to hele on (keep moving) during these, the literal worst of times.

OUR RESTAURANT ROUNDTABLE OF INDUSTRY EXPERTS Paris Nabavi Chef-Owner, Pizza Paradiso

Tylun Pang Executive Chef, Kō Restaurant, The Fairmont Kea Lani

Janice Simeon (with husband, chef Sheldon) Owner-Manager Tin Roof Maui Restaurant

Kyle Kawakami Chef-Owner, Maui Fresh Streatery

Alexa Caskey Chef-Owner/Partner, Moku Roots

Tanya Kaina Doyle Chef-Owner, All Kaina Grindz

Keith “Pono” Apana Chef-Owner, Only Ono BBQ

Rob Farrell General Manager, Mala Ocean Tavern

Michael Loudermilk General Manager, Down the Hatch Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul-Aug 2021

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Top (2): Kō restaurant aligned with the Fairmont Kea Lani's Allsafe and Ecosure protocols, implementing contactless menus and the use of gloves in all areas of service.

Right (2): Pizza Paradiso’s delivery van was a saving grace: When stay-at-home decrees were ordered, the restaurant was still able to deliver food to their clients’ doors. It also came in handy when donating pizzas to local essential workers.

Co-owner Donna Nabavi (left) and manager Lisa Villiarimo wear masks, as per CDC guidelines.

Michael Loudermilk Down the Hatch never closed, even when

Lahaina became a ghost town. We stood strong together with the community and gave our guests a sense of normalcy when many were struggling. We did our best to do the right thing and keep our staff working.

Rob Farrell Ultimately, [Mala] was forced to close, but once we did reopen for dine-in on June 1, 2020, our team really came together in aloha. No one knew how things would go and we were always adjusting and trying to do our absolute best. We a dapted the menu, offered curbside service, remained ocean-friendly and chose to not turn to nonreusable products.

Tylun Pang We were given ownership by [the Fairmont Kea Lani] to provide our teams with the necessary resources and manpower we needed to stay open. Our company’s Allsafe and Ecosure programs provided alignment with local and state mandates. At Fairmont Kea Lani, we are ‘ohana and many of us have worked together for decades. W elcoming, safeguarding and taking care of others is at the very heart of what we do.

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Alexa Caskey There was one week we thought we might have to

close based on sales, but fortunately we didn’t. Because of our unique food, counter service and smaller-size restaurant, we were able to operate at a reduced scale more easily than other places could. We consolidated our hours and started selling and delivering fresh produce boxes with items from local farms, and offered Donation Burritos, which people could pay for or not, depending on their financial situation.

Janice Simeon Initially, there was some hesitation about staying open because we felt like we might be encouraging people to go out rather than stay home, as was instructed. But we were also concerned about how we’d pay our bills and keep our families fed if we were to close. And — we didn’t know how long [the restrictions] would last.

SAFETY FIRST Keith “Pono” Apana Even before the pandemic we had heightened

our safety protocols because my wife and mother are at a higher risk for the flu. We wore masks in the kitchen, increased cleaning protocols and created special steps to handle money. When we reopened for

TOP (2): FAIRMONT KEA LANI / ABOVE (2): PIZZA PARADISO

TO CLOSE OR NOT TO CLOSE, THAT WAS THE QUESTION

DINING

Top (2): Tin Roof Maui ownermanager Janice Simeon prepares meals for donation to support the Show Aloha Challenge, helping feed the Island’s kūpuna. Extending hours and splitting the team meant each person was tasked to do the job of two, and as business picked up, they were able to hire more people.

TOP (2): TIN ROOF MAUI / ABOVE (2): MAUI FRESH STREATERY

Left (2): Maui Fresh Streatery instituted drive-thru, contactless service, and over the course of 10 months, donated nearly 5,000 meals to at-risk seniors. Judy Guajardo of Na Hoaloha Senior Services prepares meals for delivery.

no-contact service, we created sanitation stations and cleaning procedures for the delivery vehicles and carts, and devised a way to use the parking lot outside Heritage Hall in Pā‘ia as a drive-in: We numbered the parking spaces and socially distanced the vehicles. For a dim sum drive-in date, couples could receive the delivery in their vehicle and eat in the back seat.

Tanya Kaina Doyle We were the first to wear masks in our food truck, and while some laughed they all eventually followed.

Kyle Kawakami In March we initiated our two-pronged ZeroContact Service Protocol. First, we [offered] cooked, packaged and chilled [to-go] meals. Second, we changed our service procedures: customers remained masked and in their cars and pulled up to the truck drive-thru style. Their order was placed in a bag on a table and then the staff stepped away so the customer could exit the car and gather their food.

HONORING ‘OHANA Kyle Kawakami We recognized the impact the pandemic was having on the kūpuna (elderly), so we started the Kokua Meals Initiative,

which utilized customer donations to cook meals for at-risk and socially isolated seniors. Over the course of 10 months, volunteers distributed nearly 5,000 meals.

Paris Nabavi We started delivering and offered a kama‘aina (local resident) discount. My wife and I worked seven days a week. We kept our employees on who were ineligible for unemployment, and used that down time to deep clean and do various projects.

Tanya Kaina Doyle I reached out to the teens in our neighborhood who were out of school. They were cooped up in their homes, eating constantly and running up electric bills by playing video games all day long. I started by having a few of them volunteer at the truck, and they expressed the desire to work and make money instead of being stuck at home. That inspired me to start a pilot program teaching work/life skills, and I gathered five teens willing to be part of the team. I also assembled a group of parents to help flesh out the program. These teens had no work ethic, no sense of organization, no food-safety skills and no cash-handling experience. Hui Malama Learning Center, an educational and academic nonprofit, caught wind of our program and sponsored us with funding. The teens were able to make 4,000-plus meals for our kūpuna and Upcountry ‘ohana in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul-Aug 2021

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DINING

Above, left to right: To maximize their minimal-contact, graband-go business model, Moku Roots stepped up their dessert game by selling pre-cut cakes and pies in reusable glass containers (with return deposit). They also started boxing and delivering produce from local farms to drive revenue, and created “Donation Burrito,” a program in which patrons could pay for the food or not, depending on their financial situation.

need. They continue to learn every aspect of operating a food truck, and some are even launching their own businesses and are being trained as supervisors. We will forever be there for our keiki (children) to guide them as best as we can.

Janice Simeon Many working locals came by to say how much they appreciated us staying open. It was nice to be able to slow down and chat with our customers, since we were operating at a much slower pace.

Keith “Pono” Apana Many kūpuna and the immunocompromised thanked us for doing so much to maintain a safe environment. Some of our customers won’t eat out anywhere else.

ISLAND INNOVATION

series] where professionals from all over Maui came to guest-cook.

We had Zach Sato, Jeff Scheer, Regi, MiJin Kang Toride and many others. It inspired residents to come and support their favorite chef.

The series also brought us chef Alvin Savella, aka “The Kitchen Assassin,” and we are so excited to have him [at Mala].

Kyle Kawakami The thing that most impacted our success was b eing able to identify the concerns of our customers. These were frightening times and we acknowledged that people were afraid to eat out. By accepting and understanding fear, you are able to make thoughtful and sound business decisions.

Center and left: An eerily empty Front Street forced Down the Hatch to change tack in order to remain open. Plexiglass separators and hand sanitizer used at check-in and pick-up were a few of the ways the restaurant adapted.

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TOP (3): MOKU ROOTS | LEFT (2): RMSHUTTERWORKS

Rob Farrell We implemented the Chef Takeovers, [a visiting chef

Janice Simeon

In order to bring our staff back we had to meet a certain sales revenue each day, so we extended [our daily] service from four to 10 hours and split the team. Each person was tasked to do the job of two, and as business started to increase, we were able to hire more people.

Tylun Pang

Sourcing ingredients was a surprise challenge, but we approached it with an open mind, stayed focused on the end goal of serving great food to our guests, and adjusted our recipes and menus.

RMSHUTTERWORKS

LOOKING FORWARD Tylun Pang I [was] truly inspired by our community outreach to our greater ‘ohana to care for our Island. Many of the resorts, restaurants and agriculture partners responded [quickly] to those in need. There are so many heroes out there and I have never felt luckier to live on Maui!

Michael Loudermilk It was a lot of trial and error, but we were able to adapt at every turn. Now we’re on our toes waiting for the next thing that might pop up.

Tanya Kaina Doyle Success is not what’s in my pocket, it’s the service I have provided for our community. I created jobs that help support families. I have smart teens who have learned perseverance, responsibility, integrity and drive. They work hard every day and the sweat, blood and tears are worth it, especially when it’s for the ones you love. The pandemic has been nothing but success for my ‘ohana and we made sure fear was never a factor. Safety precautions and respect for others were always on our mind, but we knew for damn sure that a virus would not keep us apart.

Top: Mala Ocean Tavern had to close duing lockdown, but the staff used that time to renovate and transform their seaside parking lot into an inviting outdoor space, dramatically increasing their seating capacity. In an effort to pivot and attract customers, the restaurant also created a visiting-chef series which resulted in a permanent post for chef Alvin Savella (2018 ‘Aipono Chef of the Year), shown above.

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DINING HIGHLIGHTS

Kā‘anapali Connoisseur

Average entrée $ under $15 $$ under $25

Visit these brand new restaurants at the spectacularly renovated Kā‘anapali Beach Resort and enjoy some of the island’s best fare.

MAHELE MARKET & EATERY The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525 Hungry for island flavors and the freshest local ingredients? You’ll find them at this modern take on a momand-pop shop. Scrumptious baked grab-and-go options for the whole ‘ohana (family). Deli. Grab ‘n’ Go. $

HALE MO‘OLELO The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525 Hale is the Hawaiian word for house; mo‘olelo means story. Put them together and you have The Westin’s premier open-air gathering spot. The venue offers a stunning view of the ocean, and is located beside the keiki (children’s) pool. Experience authentic Maui vibes, share laughs and enjoy great food.

American. $-$$ HUIHUI Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 661-0011 Huihui means to mix and mingle, and this eatery at Maui’s “Most Hawaiian Hotel” is ideal for that purpose. The restaurant offers indoor and outdoor seating, and serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Kid-friendly.

Hawai‘i Regional/ American. $-$$ MACADANGDANG at the Fairway Shops, Kā‘anapali Chef Joey Macadangdang, of Joey’s Kitchen fame, steps up his act with this elevated dining experience featuring Pacific Rim flavors worth exploring. Original cocktails and bar service available. Pacific Rim. $-$$

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THE SANDBAR Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa lobby lounge, 661-0031 Offering breakfast in the morning and cocktails and pupu (appetizers) in the afternoon and evening. Sunsets are free!

Hawai‘i Regional. $$ WAICOCO The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 4463020 Foodies rejoice!

Award-winning chefs Chris Kajioka and Mourad Lahlou create culinary memories at this venue which serves breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. International. $-$$ WELOWELO Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 661-0011 This poolside oasis serves family-friendly fare, such as pizza, burgers and fresh fish, as well as locally inspired Hawaiian Bowls, pua‘a kālua (steamed, shredded pork), kāmano lomi (salted salmon with onions and tomato) and Asian slaw. Kid-friendly.

International. $$

SEA-TO-TABLE CUISINE On Napili Bay

AWARD

WINNING

Hawaii Magazine’s Third Annual Reader’s Choice Awards: Named One of the Top Five ”Best Hotel/Resort Restaurants” and "Best for Breakfast" in the state of Hawaii

OCEANFRONT Rated “Excellent”

by Zagat

Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner • Happy Hour

DINING

Maui No Ka Oi Magazine’s Annual Maui Restaurant 'Aipono Culinary Awards: Best Ocean Front Dining: Gold

and Rosé all Day

Celebrating Over 55 Years of Aloha at Napili Kai Beach Resort 5900 Lower Honoapiilani Rd • Napili • Maui • Hawaii 96761 • 808.669.1500

Hours and More Information at SeaHouseMaui.com

‘AIPONO RESTAURANT AWARD WINNERS

In Hawaiian, ai means “to eat,” and pono means “excellence.” And so it makes sense that our ‘Aipono Awards honor Maui’s best restaurants as voted on by our Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi readers. Each year, we announce the winners at our ‘Aipono Gala, a fundraising event for the University of Hawai‘i Maui College Culinary Arts Program. In 2020, the Gala was suspended and instead we held a virtual awards ceremony to announce the winners. (To watch these awards, go to MauiMagazine.net/aipono.) Still, we think these well-loved eateries deserve our applause in print, so without further ado, here are the 2020 ‘Aipono Restaurant Award winners. Pay them a visit and enjoy some excellent cuisine while supporting local Maui businesses.

RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

BEST OCEANFRONT DINING

BEST HEALTHY FARE

GOLD: Lahaina Grill 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117 SILVER (tied): Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 | Mill House (now closed) Honorable Mentions: Fleetwood’s on Front St., Japengo, Mama’s Fish House, Moku Roots

GOLD: Merriman’s Kapalua 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua, 669-6400 SILVER: The Sea House Restaurant Napili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-1500 Honorable Mentions: Honu Seafood & Pizza, Kimo’s Restaurant, Mala Ocean Tavern, Mama’s Fish House

BEST NEW RESTAURANT

MOST ROMANTIC SETTING

GOLD: Choice Health Bar 1087 Limahana Pl., #1A, Lahaina | Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali | 11 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia, 661-7711 SILVER: Moku Roots 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 214-5106 Honorable Mentions: a‘a Roots Maui, Down to Earth, Fork & Salad, Whole Foods Market

GOLD: Fond Maui Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Ste. 115, Nāpili, 856-0225 SILVER: Tight Tacos Maui 349 Hanakai St., Kahului, 707-1221 Honorable Mentions: All Kaina Grindz, My Thai Maui, Vana

GOLD: Mama’s Fish House 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488 SILVER: The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224 Honorable Mentions: Fleetwood’s on Front St., Japengo, Lahaina Grill

GOLD: Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 SILVER: Da Kitchen (now closed) Honorable Mentions: Lineage, Monkeypod Kitchen, Tin Roof Maui

MOST “MAUI-EST”

BEST CHEF’S TABLE

MOST INNOVATIVE MENU

GOLD: The Sea House Restaurant Napili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-1500 SILVER: Joey’s Kitchen Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474 | Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590 Honorable Mentions: Kō, Mama’s Fish House, Monkeypod Kitchen

GOLD: Mill House (now closed) SILVER (tied): Ka‘ana Kitchen Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 | nyloS, 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354 Honorable Mentions: Fond Maui, Lineage

GOLD: Ka‘ana Kitchen Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 SILVER: Lineage The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8800 Honorable Mentions: Moku Roots, nyloS, Star Noodle

BEST BREAKFAST

BEST BUSINESS LUNCH

GOLD: The Gazebo Napili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Nāpili, 669-5621 SILVER: The Sea House Restaurant Napili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-1500 Honorable Mentions: Akamai Coffee, Down the Hatch, Kihei Caffé, Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop

GOLD: Monkeypod Kitchen Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763 | Wailea Gateway Center, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322 SILVER: Mill House (now closed) Honorable Mentions: Café O’Lei, Fleetwood’s on Front St., Seascape Ma‘alaea Restaurant, Taverna

BEST SERVICE GOLD: Lahaina Grill 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117 SILVER: Ka‘ana Kitchen Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Honorable Mentions: Kō, Mama’s Fish House, Monkeypod Kitchen

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BEST LOCAL FLAVOR

Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call ahead or visit their social media sites for information.

BEST HAPPY HOUR GOLD: Monkeypod Kitchen Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763 | Wailea Gateway Center, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322 SILVER: Down the Hatch The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900 Honorable Mentions: Hula Grill, Sea House Restaurant, Three’s Bar & Grill

Lahaina Fried Soup Pohole Salad HAPA RAMEN STAR UDON AHI AVO GARLIC NOODLES Singapore Noodles Steamed Pork Buns PAD THAI malasadas SAKE COCKTAILS

BEST ASIAN CUISINE GOLD: Star Noodle 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5400 SILVER: Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, Kīhei Town Center, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004 | 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286 Honorable Mentions: Japengo, Miso Phat Sushi, Nuka, Tanpopo Restaurant

BEST SOUTHEAST ASIAN CUISINE

FRESH HOUSE MADE NOODLES & ASIAN SPECIALTIES SERVING LUNCH & DINNER

1285 FRONT STREET NEXT DOOR TO THE OLD LĀHAINĀ LŪ‘AU

RESERVATIONS & TAKE-OUT

808.667.5400

GOLD (tied): Nutcharee’s Authentic Thai Food, Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840 Thai Chef Restaurant Old Lahaina Center, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814 SILVER: A Saigon Café 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560 Honorable Mentions: Joey’s Kitchen, Lineage, Thai Mee Up, Vidad’s

Client: Leoda’s Trim 4.64" x4.785” Color: FULL

BEST BURGER GOLD: Cool Cat Cafe The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908 SILVER (tied): Cheeseburger in Paradise, 811 Front St., Lahaina, 6614855 | Teddy’s Bigger Burgers 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111 Honorable Mentions: Mala Ocean Tavern, Moku Roots, Taverna

BEST HAWAI‘I REGIONAL CUISINE GOLD: Kō Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 SILVER: Banyan Tree The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200

AND OUR HOMEMADE SWEET & SAVORY PIES

OPEN DAILY FROM 7AM to 8PM

BREAKFAST • LUNCH • DINNER

leodaskitchenandpieshop leodasmaui leodasmaui

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2021

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‘AIPONO RESTAURANT AWARD WINNERS More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call ahead or visit their social media sites for information.

Honorable Mentions: Hali‘imaile General Store, Mauka Makai, Merriman’s Kapalua

BEST PACIFIC RIM CUISINE GOLD: Japengo, Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 SILVER (tied): Humuhumu, Grand Wailea, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 | Roy’s, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999 Honorable Mentions: Kō, Lahaina Grill, Mama’s Fish House, Star Noodle

BEST LŪ‘AU GOLD: Old Lāhaina Lū‘au 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0700 SILVER: Drums of the Pacific Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Honorable Mentions: ‘Aha‘āina Wailea, The Feast at Lēlē, The Feast at Mōkapu, The Myths of Maui

BEST MEXICAN CUISINE

BEST PLATE LUNCH

BEST SUSHI

GOLD: Aloha Mixed Plate (now closed) SILVER: Da Kitchen (now closed) Honorable Mentions: All Kaina Grindz, Honokowai Okazuya, Maui Fresh Streatery, Tin Roof Maui

GOLD: Miso Phat Sushi Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476 | 4310 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #111, Kahana, 669-9010 SILVER: Japengo Hyatt Regency Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Honorable Mentions: Morimoto Maui, Nuka, Sushi Paradise, Umi Maui

BEST PIZZA GOLD: Flatbread Company 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989 SILVER: Prison Street Pizza 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332 Honorable Mentions: Fabiani’s Bakery & Pizza, Lahaina Pizza, Monkeypod Kitchen, Sale Pepe

BEST FISH & SEAFOOD GOLD: Mama’s Fish House 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488 SILVER: Honu Seafood & Pizza 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390 Honorable Mentions: Fleetwood’s on Front St., Japengo, Kō, Mauka Makai

BEST STEAK

GOLD: Frida’s Mexican Beach House Restaurant 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287 SILVER: Amigo’s 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210 | 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9952 | 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 872-9525 Honorable Mentions: Acevedos Hawaicano Cafe, Maui Tacos, Las Piñata’s, Roasted Chiles

GOLD: Ruth’s Chris Steak House The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880 SILVER: Duo Steak & Seafood Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Honorable Mentions: Fleetwood’s on Front St., Lahaina Grill, Merriman’s Kapalua, Son’z Steakhouse

BEST ITALIAN CUISINE

BEST NOODLES

GOLD: Sale Pepe 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667 SILVER (tied): Matteo’s Osteria, Wailea Town Center, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 891-8466 | Taverna, 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426 Honorable Mentions: Bistro Casanova; Casanova Restaurant; Fabiani’s Bakery & Pizza; Pūlehu, an Italian Grill

GOLD: Star Noodle 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5400 SILVER: Thai Mee Up Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369 Honorable Mentions: Sam Sato’s, Thai Chef, Umi Maui

BEST MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE GOLD: Pita Paradise, Wailea Gateway Center, 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 879-7177 SILVER: Pizza Paradiso, 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Lahaina, 667-2929 Honorable Mentions: Café Des Amis, Flatbread Company, Mala Ocean Tavern

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BEST POKE GOLD: Aloha Mixed Plate (now closed) SILVER: Auntie’s Kitchen The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Drive, Kā‘anapali, 667-3254 Honorable Mentions: Eskimo Candy, Japengo, Kō, Monkeypod Kitchen

BEST FOOD TRUCK GOLD: Maui Fresh Streatery MauiFreshStreatery.com, 344-7929 SILVER: Thai Mee Up Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369 Honorable Mentions: All Kaina Grindz, Geste Shrimp, Keyakiya, Ono Tacos

BEST SHAVE ICE GOLD: Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice ululanishawaiianshaveice.com 877-3700 SILVER: Breakwall Shave Ice Company The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., #104, Lahaina, 661-4900 Honorable Mentions: Down the Hatch, Gus’ Hawaiian Shave Ice, Kō, Local Boys Shave Ice

BEST GOURMET GRAB & GO GOLD (tied): Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600 | Tin Roof Maui, 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753 SILVER: Island Gourmet Markets The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055 Honorable Mentions: Choice Health Bar, Down to Earth, Honolua Store, Whole Foods Market

BEST DESSERT GOLD: Mama’s Fish House 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488 SILVER: Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600 Honorable Mentions: Ka‘ana Kitchen, Kimo’s Restaurant, Lahaina Grill, Monkeypod Kitchen

A Constellation, A Gathering, A Mixture - All things Huihui A voyage begins...call for more information (808) 667-0124 | huihuirestaurant.com

MIXOLOGY

Taverna won the silver ‘Aipono Award for Best Handcrafted Cocktails in 2020. Here’s one of their signature creations you can make at home.

Walking Penelope 1 ounce lime juice 1½ ounces spicy guava lemongrass syrup* 2 ounces tequila Add all ingredients to a shaker cup and shake well. Rim a glass with black lava salt and fill with ice. Pour cocktail over ice and garnish with a slice of lime. *Don’t have spicy guava lemongrass syrup handy? Make your own: Combine store-bought guava nectar and lemongrass syrup to your taste.

Add a dash of Maui-made hot sauce to spice things up!

Taverna, 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua tavernamaui.com | 667-2426 | IG/FB @TavernaMaui

‘Aipono Awards 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

BEST SUSHI HAPPY HOUR

daily from 3 to 5 pm

‘AIPONO RESTAURANT AWARD WINNERS

BEST FARM-TO-TABLE CUISINE GOLD: Mill House (now closed) SILVER: Pacific’O 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341 Honorable Mentions: Banyan Tree, Fork & Salad, Merriman’s Kapalua, Moku Roots

BEST COFFEE SHOP GOLD: Akamai Coffee Co., 1325 S. Kīhei Rd., Unit 100, Kīhei, 868-3251 SILVER (tied): The Coffee Store in Nāpili, Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 669-4170 | Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-CUPS (2877) Honorable Mentions: Bad Ass Coffee, Honolulu Coffee Roasting, Mill House Roasting Co., Wailuku Coffee Company

BEST BAR GOLD: Down the Hatch The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900 SILVER: Fleetwood’s on Front St. 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425.

Honorable Mentions: The Sea House Restaurant, Taverna, ‘Ūmalu

BEST HANDCRAFTED COCKTAILS GOLD: Monkeypod Kitchen Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763 | Wailea Gateway Center, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322 SILVER (tied): Mill House (now closed) | Taverna, 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426 Honorable Mentions: Lineage, Luana Lounge at Fairmont Kea Lani, Mala Ocean Tavern, Merriman’s Kapalua

BEST WINE LIST

MISOPHAT.COM

(808) 891 MISO (6476) Azeka Shopping Center - Mauka 1279 S. Kihei Rd. Suite #108, Kihei

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GOLD: Lahaina Grill 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117 SILVER: Fleetwood’s on Front St. 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425 Honorable Mentions: Mala Ocean Tavern, Merriman’s Kapalua, Taverna

back & better than ever!

E N J OY N E W R E G I O N A L S P E C I A L S

Weekend Brunch

with Live Music on Saturdays & Hula on Sundays!

DINNER: 5pm-9pm LUNCH: 11:30am-2:30pm HAPPY HOUR: 2:30pm-5pm BRUNCH: 10am-1pm

808-667-CIAO (2426)

WWW.TAVERNAMAUI.COM 2000 Village Rd, Kapalua, Maui

Huli Pau - Cheers!

Join us for breathtaking views, matched with island inspired cocktails and local cuisine deeply rooted in the island's culture and history.

Scan for menu

Fairmont Kea Lani 4100 Wailea Alanui Fairmont-Kea-Lani.com/dine

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2021

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‘AIPONO RESTAURANT AWARD WINNERS BEST LOBBY LOUNGE GOLD: Alaloa Lounge The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 RitzCarlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200 SILVER (tied): Botero, Grand Wailea, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 | Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Honorable Mentions: Lehua Lounge at Andaz, Luana Lounge at Fairmont Kea Lani

Welcome to

The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea Discover the flavors of the islands in our elegant alfresco setting with sweeping views of three Hawaiian Islands.

Th he Re estaurant at Hotel Wa ailea showcases its artistry with fresh, seasonal ingredients sourced from farmers and fishers throughout the region. Our “culinary casual” fare reflects the best of the islands’ colors, scents, and tastes.

Perched on the hillside above Maui's south coast, the restaurant offers panoramic ocean views from the open-air lanai and intimate dining under the stars in the garden. For creative cocktails and sunset pupus, join us in the all-new Birdcage Bar!

BEST LATE-NIGHT DINING GOLD: Down the Hatch The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900 SILVER: The Pint & Cork The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 727-2038 Honorable Mentions: Mala Ocean Tavern, Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, ‘Ūmalu

SPECIAL AWARDS CHEF OF THE YEAR TAYLOR PONTE, Mill House (now closed); currently chef for Kamado Maui private events and pop-ups LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT PETER MERRIMAN FRIEND OF AGRICULTURE

555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, HI 96753 www.hotelwailea.com/rhw 808.879.2224

GREG GIFFORD Duke’s Beach House Maui 130 Kai Malina Pkwy, Kā‘anapali, 662-2900 EXCELLENCE IN SUSTAINABILITY Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate 78 Ulupono St, Ste. 1, Lahaina, (844) 844-5842 mauichocolate.com EXCELLENCE IN SUSTAINABILITY RESTAURANT Moku Roots 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 214-5106

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MĀLAMA MAUI

(1) (3)

Remarkable Resorts

By Felix Sunny D’Souza

COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

(2)

In alignment with the Hawai‘i Tourism Authority’s Mālama Hawai‘i initiative, which encourages island visitors to give back to their destination, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi is highlighting local resorts, restaurants and businesses that embody this effort and motivate their patrons to do so, as well. Here are some standouts worthy of recognition.

Protecting the ‘āina (land) is of great importance to Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, and “Hawai‘i’s Most Hawaiian Hotel” has recently expanded on its existing sustainability efforts as part of its resortwide renovations. KBH installed energy-efficient heating, ventilation and air-conditioning systems, as well as tankless, gas-condensing water heaters. All guest rooms were outfitted with sensors that turn off the air conditioning when lānai doors are opened, and photovoltaic panels were added on top of the newly built parking garage; these work to reduce carbon emissions by 15 percent. The hotel also installed bottle-filling water stations (1), placed divided receptacles for trash and recyclables in all guest rooms, discontinued the use of Styrofoam containers and plastic straws, replaced inefficient lightbulbs with compact LED bulbs, and planted onsite gardens. kbhmaui.com/sustainability The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa is at the forefront of sustainable initiatives. In 2017, it became the first resort in Hawai‘i to trade plastic straws for a marine-friendly paper alternative. The Sheraton also implemented a resort-wide recycling program and replaced plastic cups with biodegradable corn-based vessels for poolside beverages. As part of its recent renovations, the resort installed electric vehicle charging stations as well as motion-sensing

air-conditioning units in guest rooms that turn off when the rooms are unoccupied. An on-site weather station monitors exterior conditions, allowing staff to adjust irrigation systems accordingly. And in an effort to protect Hawai‘i’s fragile coral reefs, the Sheraton partnered with Raw Elements USA to provide reef-safe sunscreen dispensers throughout the resort (2). marriott.com Since 2001, The Fairmont Kea Lani has launched more than 50 initiatives to help care for Maui. The resort sponsors an annual reef and beach cleanup on Earth Day, and in partnership with the Hawai‘i Wildlife Fund and the Department of Land and Natural Resources, it adopted Palauea Beach to help protect the endangered hawksbill sea turtle. On property, the Fairmont installed more than 2,200 rooftop solar panels (3), and donates all used soaps and amenities to Clean the World Foundation, which to date has created 4,200 new bars of soap and 3,200 hygiene kits for Third World countries. To mark its 30th anniversary in 2021, the Fairmont launched the “Rooted in Aloha” program, a commitment to plant 30 native trees such as koa, sandalwood and ōhi‘a all over the island. Most recently, the resort implemented the 4ocean program to encourage guests to give back: Participants in an islandwide, self-directed beach cleanup receive a fifth night’s stay free. fairmont.com/kea-lani-maui Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul-Aug 2021

81

PAU HANA

Fill ‘Em Up! Story by Tita | Illustration by Matt Foster I love da MNKO Dining Out issue, but I get one small kine complaint. Da ‘Aipono Awards stay missing one impo’tant catagory: Bes’ Gas Station Cuisine. Nowadays, get Spam musubi at almost all da gas stations an’ convenience stores, so at least da basics is covered. But titas who know, know where fo’ go, fo’ fill up wit’ da premium -grade grinds.

BES’ GAS STATION HOT CUISINE: Uptown Texaco, Wailuku — da kitchen not open weekends or nighttime, but dey get onolicious breakfast an’ lunch specials. Try da

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baked ‘ōpakapaka on Fridays or pastele stew wit’ gandule rice on Wednesdays.

Except fo’ leaving out da gas stations, I t’ink da ‘Aiponos is right on. Every year, when da Bes’ of Maui issue come out, I cut out da ‘Aipono Awards part an’ I hang ‘em on da ra-fridgerator door. So when my husband ask me, What get fo’ eat? I tell him fo’ go look on da fridge. Not in da fridge, on da fridge. And den I let him pick where he going take me fo’ eat.

I always try fo’ check out all da ‘Aipono winnahs befo’ da next year’s list come out,

kinda like one game. But hard, you know, ‘cause they all so good, I like keep going back. No mo’ nuff days in da week fo’ eat at all my fav’rites. I get too much fav’rites. I guess dass one good problem fo’ have.

We nevah have dat problem in da old days, when Maui was mo’ small an’ simpoh.

In da' 60s, only had couple, t’ree fancy kine restaurants. Same t’ing wit’ da big hotels.

Kā‘anapali was brand new, an’ nevah have nottin’ but kiawe trees where Wailea stay now. Hard fo’ imagine, yeah?

Only had one place open all night: Gate 21 at da Kahului Airport. No ask me how come da airport restaurant was twenty-four hours when da planes wasn’t. Back den, we nevah have mainland flights, only Aloha an’ Hawaiian flyin’ intah-island, and I t’ink da las’ flight was eight o’clock.

Gate 21 was mo’ fancy dan da regulah places we went, but not cloth napkin kine fancy. Had big booths fo’ sit in, plus one countah like at da soda fountains or da mom-an’-pop dinahs. But da only t’ing I remembah eating ovah there is pancakes.

Ev’ry so often, my muddah an’ faddah used to get ono fo’ pancakes at two o’clock in da mornin’, an’ since I was too small fo’ stay home all by myself, dey would take me wit’ dem to Gate 21. My muddah would wake me up jus’ long enough fo’ put on my robe on top my pajamas, an’ den my faddah would carry me to da car. Next t’ing I know, my muddah wakin’ me up again, only dis time we stay in da restaurant, an’ she get one humongous pancake fo’ share with me.

When I pau eat, I wrap my blanket aroun’ me, curl up in da booth an’ go back sleep.

Now, if any of da ‘Aipono Awards winnahs would let me come eat in my pajamas and go moemoe (sleep) when I pau, dat would be da bes’ of da bes’! I wouldn’t have dis problem of too much fav’rites. I would have all my meals an’ my naps at da same place.

OK, maybe not all. I would still go get da ‘ōpakapaka at Uptown.

Tita is the pidgin-speaking alter ego of local actress, stand-up comic, TV/radio personality and freelance writer Kathy Collins. Hear Tita read her story aloud at mauimagazine.net/gas-station-cuisine.

This story originally appeared in our MayJune 2013 issue.

Serving Hawaii Is Our Business Since 2005, Pasha Hawaii has supported Maui’s locally-grown businesses, including Maui’s own Haynes Publishing Group, a second-generation familyowned company that publishes Maui Nō Ka ʻOi Magazine, Ka’anapali Magazine, Island Living, and Eating & Drinking magazines. These awardwinning publications focus on the life and culture on Maui, celebrating the people, places and events that make this Island, Maui Nō Ka ʻOi. “Our partnership with Pasha Hawaii is one of our most valued. Pasha understands the challenges and unexpected snags facing small-business owners everyday. From senior management to dock workers, the people at Pasha exemplify aloha in their business strategies and responsiveness. They truly care about our product. The remarkable success of Pasha is reflected in their unwavering commitment to the success of their customers.”

— Diane Haynes Woodburn, Publisher, Haynes Publishing Group