MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI MAGAZINE
Eat, Drink and Be...
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
BEST OF MAUI THE SHAKA LIST 20 Reasons We Love Maui SACRED TRUST Sharing Hawaiian Culture GREEN YOUR HOME Sustainable North-Shore Living HIGH SPIRITS Hawaiian Holiday Cocktails
VOL 25 / NO. 6
VOL 25 NO. 6 US/CAN $4.95
FEAST WITH FRIENDS
4 Favorite Holiday Recipes M AU I M AG A Z I N E . N E T
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1999 “Show”, 2000 “Attraction” Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau
Voted “Best Lū‘au”by Maui Residents Zagat Sur vey
“Excellent” “Extraordinary to Perfection” For Reser ved Seats Call
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Bring your Outlets of Maui shopping receipts totaling $200 or more to Croes, then choose your dining gift card with our compliments. Offer valid November 26 - December 5, 2021. One gift card per guest. Other restrictions apply. Ask for details.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Features
40
MAUI STYLE SHAKA LIST 2021 From trees to seas and shoes to views — here are 20 of the myriad of reasons we are lucky to live on Maui. By Lara McGlashan
10
MauiMagazine.net
50
HAWAIIAN SOUL THE THOUSAND-YEAR-OLD GIFT These four cultural advisors are committed to bringing back the Hawaiian culture — before it disappears. By Shannon Wianecki
56
AT HOME GOING PLATINUM Style meets sustainability in this eco-conscious Sprecklesville home. By Sarah Ruppenthal
Cover: Photographer Bob Bangerter snapped this iconic shot of a solo palm tree reaching for the sea along the Kīhei coastline. Read more about South Maui’s Kama‘ole Beach Parks in our Shaka List on Page 40.
ANDREW SHOEMAKER
32
ISLAND BUSINESS ENDURING INSTITUTIONS We honor four more local businesses that have stood the test of time. By Sarah Ruppenthal
Sunsets at the summit, one of the 20 reasons we love Maui. See our Shaka List on Page 40.
Our Waterfall collection comes in several styles and sizes and is available in 14K Yellow, White or Rose Gold.
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HAWAII’S BEST People’s Choice Awards The Star-Advertiser 2021
HAWAII MAGAZINE Readers’ Choice Award 2021
9/24/21 2:12 PM
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Departments
16
CONTRIBUTORS It takes a lot of talent to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.
18
PUBLISHER’S NOTE By Diane Haynes Woodburn
20
TAG, WE’RE IT! A shout-out to our fans who get social.
22
TALK STORY Tales of Hawai‘i fresh off the coconut wireless. By Judy Edwards and Lara McGlashan
82
PAU HANA SHAKA SLEUTHING By Tom Stevens
Dining Stories by Becky Speere
64
FEATURE HOLIDAY POTLUCK Our staff came together to share our favorite recipes and partake in the season’s eatings.
71
MIXOLOGY HIGH SPIRITS Toast to the good times with these two Hawaiian holiday cocktails.
74
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MauiMagazine.net
76
DINING GUIDE Hungry? Check out this short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island.
MIEKO HORIKOSHI
Website manager Adelle Lennox made these chocolate chipastic mini Bundt cakes for our holiday potluck. Get the recipe for yourself! Dining, p. 64
DINING HIGHLIGHT Chef Tylun Pang celebrates 25 years on Maui at the Fairmont Kea Lani.
D Island
Make your Maui dream a reality.
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INTERNATIONAL REALTY
Maui's resort areas each offer ownership opportunities for condominiums, homes and land. Contact us to learn more about the amenities and real estate offerings in the Kapalua, Kaanapali, Wailea and Makena Resorts. Use the QR code to explore our entire listing portfolio.
Courtney M. Brown
Realtor ®
(S), ePRO RS-56519 808.250.0210 I luxuryrealestatemaui.com cb@luxuryrealestatemaui.com
Heidi E. Dollinger
Realtor ® (B), RSPS RB-23187 808.359.4245 heidi@islandsothebysrealty.com
ISLAND SOTHEBY'S INTERNATIONAL REALTY I 5095 NAPILIHAU STREET SUITE 113 A LAHAINA, HAWAII 96761 © 2021 Sotheby's International Realty. All Rights Reserved. The Sotheby's International Realty trademark is licensed and used with permission. Each Sotheby's International Realty office is independently owned and operated, except those operated by Sotheby's International Realty, Inc. The Sotheby's International Realty network fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. This material is based upon information which we consider reliable but because it has been supplied by third parties, we cannot represent that it is accurate or complete and it should not be relied upon as such. All offerings are subject to errors, omissions, changes including price or withdrawal without notice. If your property is listed with a real estate broker, please disregard. It is not our intention to solicit the offerings of other real estate brokers. We are happy to work with them and cooperate fully.
MASTHEAD
There’s a saying known in the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too. Publisher Diane Haynes Woodburn Group Publisher Michael Haynes Creative Director John Giordani
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Judy Edwards, Lara McGlashan, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere, Tom Stevens, Shannon Wianecki
Editor-in-Chief Lara McGlashan CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
EDITORIAL
Consulting Editor Rita Goldman Dining Editor Becky Speere Website Manager Adelle Lennox Digital Media Contributor Tori Speere MARKETING & ADVERTISING
Sales Manager Brooke Tadena Sales Associate Benjamin Barreras Advertising Sales (808) 242-8331 ADMINISTRATION
Controller Kao Kushner Subscriptions & Office Manager Nancy Wenske NEWSSTAND SALES & CIRCULATION
Subscription Inquiries Toll-Free: (844) 808-MAUI (6284) Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net National MagNet, National MagNet, Disticor Magazine Distribution Services Hawai‘i MagNet In-Room Maui Circulation
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Bob Bangerter, Cesere Brothers, Mark Choe, Ron Dahlquist, Rob DeCamp, Mieko Horikoshi, Sue Hudelson, Adelle Lennox, Lara McGlashan, Andrew Shoemaker, Ryan Siphers, Daniel Sullivan, Patrick Wardle CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR Matthew Foster E-MAIL: Info@MauiMagazine.net
Moving? Send address changes to: Haynes Publishing Group, 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793. Please note: If your magazine is undeliverable, Haynes Publishing has no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year of notification. Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi and Kā‘anapali magazines
90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; (808) 242-8331. ISSN 2473-5299 (print) | ISSN 2473-5469 (online) ©2021 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly subscriptions: U.S., $24; Canada, $44; Foreign, $64. Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net. Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi, an environmental leader whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.
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Realtor® (S) RS-61995 808.870.41141 wendyricepeterson.com wendy@islandsothebysrealty.com
TOP PRODUCER JULY 2021
Island Sotheby's International Realty
© 2021 Sotheby's International Realty. All Rights Reserved. Each Sotheby's International Realty office is independently owned and operated, except those operated by Sotheby's International Realty, Inc. The Sotheby's International Realty network fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. All offerings are subject to errors, omissions, changes including price or withdrawal without notice.
CONTRIBUTORS
mana‘o radio
Here are some of the folks who make our magazine nō ka ‘oi (the best).
ListenerSupported
KMNO-FM
During her four years on Maui, photographer Sue Hudelson shot for Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, Hana Hou Magazine, Hawai‘i Magazine, Modern Luxury Hawai‘i and Edible Hawaiian Islands. Work and family pulled Hudelson back to Los Angeles, where she currently resides. suehudelson .com | @suehudelsonphotography
Born and raised in Japan, photographer Mieko Horikoshi moved to Maui in 1994. She discovered her love of food photography while spending time in the kitchen raising her two young daughters. Horikoshi always goes the extra mile to get the shot! miekophotography.com | society6.com/lilikoimaui | @miekoskitchen
Hawaiian Soul (p.50)
Dining Feature (p.64) & Mixology (p.71)
Since 2007, professional photographer Ryan Siphers (whom we are pleased to have worked with for nearly a decade!) has enjoyed working, playing and raising his family on Maui. His job enables him to explore amazing landscapes, meet interesting people and visit gorgeous homes. ryansiphersphotography.com
Sarah Ruppenthal is an award-winning journalist and freelance writer. Her stories have appeared in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, The Honolulu Star-Advertiser and The Maui News, among others. When she’s not working on a story, Ruppenthal can be found relaxing at home on Maui’s north shore with husband, Matt, and their 125-pound “puppy,” Odie.
AT
91.7 FM And Online At:
ManaoRadio.com Still non-commercial, non-profit, extremely eclectic.
Talk Story (p.22), At Home (p.56)
Island Business (p.32) & At Home (p.56)
Named the Best Independent Journalist by the Society of Professional Journalists, Hawai‘i Chapter, Shannon Wianecki has traveled to Iceland, the South Pacific and all points in between in search of stories. But her favorite spot remains the beach within walking distance of her home on Maui. @swianecki Hawaiian Soul (p.50)
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PUBLISHER’S NOTE
Kama‘āina Christmas
The Maui Melting Pot
For Jessica Kealoha, a kanaka and child of the land who taught love and respect to every person she touched with every cell of her being. She lived in constant grace. Parts of this publisher’s note were taken from our October 2009 issue. A hui hou,
Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher
He received enough stink eye to last a lifetime when he won the prize, but after trading canning tips with the local ladies, he won them over. 18
MauiMagazine.net
MIEKO HORIKOSHI
I
awake to an olfactory reveille — a pungent, sweet, spicy aroma — and follow my nose to the kitchen. My husband, Jamie, a sunrise alchemist, is shaking mustard seed into his bubbling cauldron. “Mmmm,” I murmur and lean in for a better look. Exotic spices swirl around bright orange mango, yellow ginger, raisins, brown sugar, onions and (oooeee!) vinegar — a kaleidoscope of fragrance and color. Jamie makes the best mango chutney in Maui County. And I say that with complete modesty, because it once won Best of Show at the Maui County Fair. I remember that when Jamie collected his blue ribbon, he was two heads taller than the majority of his competition — and the opposite gender. And he was, well, haole (non-Hawaiian; in his case, Caucasian). Initially he received enough stink eye to last a lifetime when he won the prize, but after trading canning tips and talking story with the local ladies, he won them over, and they attributed him with kama‘āina (native-born) credibility. Lately at our office, there’s been some debate over the term kama‘āina. “The literal meaning is ‘child of the land,’ someone born here,” observed consulting editor Rita Goldman. By that criterion, then, my two sons are kama‘āina while I am not, despite having lived here for more than 45 years. Another opinion, please. “It’s a mental state, a willingness to embrace what is already here,” says one of our writers, who arrived here at the ripe old age of two. “That’s why some people who come here are never considered kama‘āina — they never let go of how they think things should be.” Hmm, getting closer. I ask our friend Kimokeo Kapahulehua, who is both Native Hawaiian and a respected cultural advisor. “Kama‘āina is someone who fits in,” he says. “Do you have to be born here?” I ask. “No, that’s kanaka,” he says. “Love the land and the people — and be respectful. That’s kama‘āina.”
Back in the kitchen, Jamie’s award-winning chutney is ready to jar. I spoon up a small taste and am rewarded with a glorious burst of flavor and bite. “What do you think kama‘āina is?” I ask my husband as I take another spoonful. “Maybe it’s like chutney, a blend of opposites that get into a melting pot and make it work,” he suggests. I consider this idea — a sweet mix of foreign and local, spiked with a bit of vinegar for respect and decide it’s the perfect recipe for present-day. My generation called America “the great melting pot,” a term that was adopted from a play of the same name first presented in 1908 and written by British author Israel Zangwill, the son of Russian-Jewish immigrants. The play celebrated America’s capacity to absorb and grow from the contributions of its many and varied immigrants who came to our shores from all corners of the Earth, “Ah, what a stirring and a seething! Celt and Latin, Slav and Teuton, Greek and Syrian, black and yellow.” President Theodore Roosevelt is said to have shouted on opening night, “That’s a great play, Mr. Zangwill!” This year has been, and still remains, a challenging time of hardship and unspeakable loss. But as long as we remember that we’re in this together, we will get through it. Whether your name is Kapahulehua, Zangwill, Roosevelt, McGlashan, Giordani, Tadena, Speere, Barreras, Chun, Goldman, Shalhoub, or even Moonbeam … whether you are kama‘āina or malihini (foreigner, newcomer), one thing is for certain: we need each other. At the close of our 25th year, my heart is filled with gratitude for all of you — your friendship and your readership. Mahalo nui for allowing us to share the stories of our island melting pot. Wishing you a kama‘āina Christmas filled with sweetness and spice, respect and love. Mele Kalikimaka and happy holidays to all.
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TAG, WE’RE IT
Our readers are as obsessed with Maui as we are. We see you out there, exploring the island and snapping those Insta-worthy shots. Follow us on Instagram @MauiMag, tag #LoveMauiMag and we’ll share some of our favorite posts in each issue.
@acadventurephotography Yes, sunsets on Maui really are this spectacular!
@estersmaui Is it aloha Friday yet?
@jamesensano Performer @chadoday lights up the night!
20
MauiMagazine.net
@jennimatthewsphotography An impossibly blue lotus flower blooms at the Garden of Eden Arboretum in Ha‘ikū.
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TALK STORY
Fresh off the coconut wireless
Story by Judy Edwards Photography by Ryan Siphers
Don’t Rock the Volcano 22
MauiMagazine.net
FARM TOURS & PICNICS The majesty of the view from the summit of Haleakalā seems otherworldly — and proves tempting to unethical rockhounds.
MauiAlpaca.com 808-870-3711 Reservations Required
I’ve worked for three national park sites on Hawai‘i Island and on Maui, and rocks would regularly arrive in the mail, most with a letter wrapped carefully around them, profusely apologizing for their removal. This phenomenon has been known for decades as “Pele’s Curse,” the belief that removing things native to Hawai‘i that belong to Pele, such as rocks, sand and pumice, will bring bad luck to the pilferer. The goddess of fire represents all things volcanic, and as the saying goes, she regards rocks as her children and removing even the smallest stone from the Hawaiian Islands can land you in hot lava. The only way to break the curse is to return the stolen items to their place of origin. Indeed, many people who have pocketed a pebble or two have reported an unusual amount of bad luck. Pets die, businesses fail, relationships end in an eruption of emotion. “[Pele’s Curse] is definitely a thing, and we get about 100 packages a month,” says Rachel Hodara, archeologist and cultural resources program manager at Haleakalā National Park. This, despite Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov-Dec 2021
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COURTESY OF HALEAKALĀ NATIONAL PARK
Volcanic rocks of all shapes, sizes and colors are returned to Hawai‘i’s national parks every year, many accompanied by distraught letters begging forgiveness.
the regular public-service announcements the park sends out to discourage rock removal. “We freeze the [returned] rocks for 30 days to kill any possible invasive organisms,” says Hodara. “Then we put rocks [from] the park back in the park and we take boxes of sand down to the beach.” Before the overwhelm of Western contact, Hawaiians consulted kāhuna (priests) about moving pōhaku (stones), perceiving the islands as alive in every detail, and every detail essential to the vibrancy of the whole. Like so much of traditional Hawaiian life, this is a beautiful and thoughtful way to live with deep respect. It is, however, a nuanced and complex set of concepts, not easily communicated, say, on a tour bus. Over the years, that has made me wonder if it isn’t just easier to let the threat of a curse do the heavy lifting for what Hawaiians might term pono, or intrinsic rightness. “The curse is [probably] the main reason people don’t take things,” says Hodara. “But we focus on respectful resource protection and the cultural
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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov-Dec 2021
25
Celebr a t e ...AND stay awhile ENJOY THE HOLIDAYS WHILE YOU
SHOP, STROLL, DINE & RELAX AT MAUI MALL VILLAGE. VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR GIFT GIVING IDEAS & MORE!
MELE KALIKIMAKA! TJ M A X X WHOLE FOODS MARKET GENKI SUSHI LONGS DRUG STORE TA S A K A G U R I - G U R I REGAL CINEMAS
MAUIMALL.COM 7 0 E . K A ` A H U M A N U AV E . KAHULUI, HI
IHOP F U N FA C T O RY AND SO MUCH MORE!
‘Aipono Awards BALLOT 2019 s Vote for your favorite Maui restaurant at: MauiMagazine.net/VoteAipono The 36 categories with the most votes
will be recognized on stage at the gala.
1. RESTAURAN T OF THE YEAR
The best of everything rolled into one: food, service, value and ambiance. 2. BEST NEW RESTAURAN T
My favorite Maui spot that opened in
Get your votes in today!
29. BEST FOOD TRUCK
15. BEST BURGER
Eh, like beef? This is the place I recommend.
great
This restaurant excels at combining the of the Islands.
3. MOST “MAUI-EST”
I love taking visiting family and friends it’s the quintessential Maui place.
here—
Fast service? Tasty fare? Heaven on wheels. 30. BEST RESTAURAN T POKE
CUISINE 16. BEST HAWAI‘I REGIONAL
2018.
Ave., Or fill this out and mail to 90 Central be reWailuku, HI 96793. Ballots must eligible ceived by Dec. 31, 2018, to be for drawing. Vote in at least 10 categories and be entered to win! See rules below.
flavors
The perfectly seasoned raw fish they tops my scale of 1 to 10.
serve here
31. BEST SHAVE ICE
17. BEST PACIFIC RIM CUISINE
Dining here takes my taste buds on adventures across the Pacific and into the Far East.
spend it. If I had a slush fund, here’s where I’d
VOTE FOR YOUR FAVORITE MAUI RESTAURANTS in the Jan–Feb issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine. 4. BEST SERVICE
18. BEST LŪ‘AU
5. BEST OCEANFRONT DINING
19. BEST MEXICAN
I propose this as the perfect place to important question.
pop that
When I crave something South of the I come here.
8. BEST HEALTHY FARE
22. BEST PLATE LUNCH
DLE
kine! Great local-style grinds? This one’s da 23. BEST PIZZA
me
The crusts? Upper crust! The toppings? the best. 24. BEST NOODLES
10. BEST BREAKFAST
Here’s my favorite place to start the day. 11. BEST BUSINESS LUNCH
Bottom line? This is where I like to bring or meet with colleagues over lunch.
clients,
Here’s where everybody knows my name.
Cheers for this venue’s masterful mixologists!
do.
falafel, For the love of pita—and hummus, gyros, couscous and baba ganoush—dine here.
Vegan, vegetarian, or other dietary preferences—these folks do a great job. This kitchen’s culinary creativity keeps coming back for more.
My conclusion? This restaurant makes the yummiest finish to a meal.
34. BEST HANDCRAF TED COCKTAILS
My favorite place to do as the Romans 21. BEST MEDITERRANEAN/MID EASTERN
Come as you are—the food is good and the setting is casual.
Border,
20. BEST ITALIAN
7. BEST LOCAL FLAVOR
9. MOST INNOVATIV E MENU
32. BEST DESSERT
33. BEST BAR
add Ocean views and a salt-scented breeze a savory note to this well-crafted menu. 6. MOST ROMANTIC SETTING
t make
Authentic island foods and entertainmen this is my favorite.
I can count on the staff here to be prompt, knowledgeable and attentive to my needs.
Chow fun? Pad Thai? Any way you cut my favorite noodle house!
Flat-out
35. BEST LOBBY LOUNGE
A well-stocked bar and great atmosphere makes this where I like to linger. 36. BEST WINE LIST
Bottled perfection: this restaurant’s excellent selection and knowledgeable servers. 37. BEST RESTAURAN T TO HOST SPECIAL EVENT
A
Do I consider this the ideal reception I do! I do!
venue?
38. BEST LATE-NIGHT DINING
it, this is
I’d stay up long past bedtime to feast 39. FARM-TO-TABLE
25. BEST FISH & SEAFOOD
For fresh fish and succulent preparation, this restaurant is the catch of the day.
here.
The freshest produce and locally raised make this place my pick. 40. BEST VIBE (AMBIANCE )
meats
Subscribe today to cast your ballot! Use the insert between pages 34–35 to take advantage of our special discount offer. 12. BEST HAPPY HOUR
Here’s to my favorite after-work spot and pūpū with friends. 13. BEST ASIAN
for drinks
For great Chinese, Korean or Japanese this is my first choice. 14. BEST SOUTHEAS T ASIAN
cuisine,
Vietnamese? Thai? Filipino? Indian? This restaurant is oriented to the best!
26. BEST STEAK
When I’m here, I know my favorite cut will be prepared to a T.
of beef
When I dine out, they make me feel right home. 41. BEST GOURMET GRAB & GO
at
Hooked on great sushi? Land here.
Just because you can’t stay doesn’t mean have to settle.
28. BEST COFFEE SHOP
42. BEST SPICY NIGHT OUT
27. BEST SUSHI
and Great java, pastries and other light fare, the service and setting are perks!
you
This place is hot!
You must vote in at least 10 per person; duplicates will be discarded. 31, 2018. One ballot (print or online) readers 18 years and older. received no later than December 31. Participation is open to all MNKO CONTEST RULES: Ballots must be will be selected at random December Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793. valid entry. Two prize-winning ballots ballots to: ‘Aipono Awards, 90 Central categories for your ballot to be a but are not eligible to win prizes. Mail partners of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi may vote Employees, advertisers and promotional
COURTESY OF HALEAKALĀ NATIONAL PARK
Rocks returned by visitors are frozen and sterilized to rid them of potential invasive species before national park staff replace them on park land.
perspective.” What’s more, she reminds me, the National Park Service laws prohibit taking plants, fish, wildlife, or rocks from any national park. Kainoa Horcajo, former Hawaiian cultural ambassador at the Grand Wailea Resort, unpacks it this way: “I [once received] rocks sent to the hotel with a letter that said, I took these rocks on our vacation even though I was told not to, and my business has suffered ever since. Please return them to their right place so that my business may be restored. Security brings these things to me very carefully, with this idea that the rocks are cursed. But I say the rocks aren’t the problem, the person is the problem. We love to assign blame externally, [but] the idea of a curse is such a Western concept. “This thing [this rock] that the Western world regards as an inanimate, lifeless object, Hawaiian culture conceptualizes as a physical being that has been able to bind, to make solid, all of the energies from the very beginning of time. So, who is important here? Not us. What’s important is the pōhaku.” This story originally appeared in our Nov-Dec 2018 issue. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov-Dec 2021
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TALK STORY
Ring in the Holidays
Story by Lara McGlashan
Maui native Judy Bisgard is a multifaceted artist. Her four decades of work span a vast array of media, including basket weaving, etching, printmaking and painting, and Bisgard often draws inspiration for her art from the island’s flora. Her affinity for foliage, philanthropic bent and connections within the community make her the perfect leader for the Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center’s annual wreathmaking mission. The first item of business is collecting the materials. “We used to cut and gather things for two whole weeks, and a couple years we even had to take a four-wheel-drive vehicle up the volcano to get [the cuttings] we wanted!” Bisgard says. “Nowadays three or four of us just spend a couple days collecting. A lot of it is just knowing who has what in their backyard and getting their permission to cut some of it.” Once the media have been collected, friends and volunteers join Bisgard over a weekend and get their art on. The group gathers, glues, twists and twines together flowers and branches and nuts and berries, creating holiday wreaths to sell at the Hui’s annual open house. All wreaths begin with a store-bought circular base made from
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straw, vines or wire, but after that it’s up to the individual. “It’s interesting that the personality of the person comes out in the wreath,” Bisgard says. “Some people like to make tight-knit wreaths … others more whimsical wreaths. Some people like to use just one thing while others like to use lots of stuff and cram in everything they can find.” According to Bisgard, you can make a wreath out of anything. “Whatever you have in your yard will work,” she says, adding that
the best foliage for a longer-lasting wreath is anything evergreen. “Cypress, cedar, yellow juniper, even magnolia leaves. Anything that is tough and that will dry well — tree ferns and ti leaves, berries and even pomegranates. Avoid things that wilt and delicate flowers like ginger that will just turn brown and fall apart.” Other enduring ingredients include seedpods, kukui (candlenut) seeds and macadamia nuts. When all is said and done, the group creates anywhere from 100 to 200 wreaths, a labor of love that nets the Hui several thousands of dollars each year. But after 40 years of wreath-making, Bisgard is hanging up her glue gun and is passing the tiki torch on to Briana Welker Mabbutt. “Briana knows a lot about plants and her father is an artist,” says Bisgard. “I will try to help her source materials and introduce her to people who can help. I know what everyone has in their yard! My hope is that the tradition will continue, and that a younger generation will get involved.” For more information or to take a class: Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center, 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao | huinoeau.com | 808.572.6560 | IG @huinoeau | FB @hui.noeau
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FOREVER H AND A MAUI Owner Romela Agbayani designs and sews these adorable Hawaiian dresses and accessories for 18-inch American Girl dolls, along with matching dresses and accessories for girls of all ages. 658 Front Street, Lahaina; Saturdays at the Maui Swap Meet in Kahului. ForeverHAndAMaui.com | FB/IG @foreverhandamaui | 808.661.1760 | 808.276.0960 | 808.276.3838
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ADVERTORIAL HOLIDAY MARKETPLACE
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January 5-9, 2022 The Plantation Course at Kapalua
Buy Tickets at SentryTournamentOfChampions.com
Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov-Dec 2021
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ISLAND BUSINESS
Island Institutions
This year, in honor of the 25th anniversary of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, we are celebrating beloved local businesses that have stood the test of time. Here are four more of our favorites.
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Top: Kaluanui in the 1930s. Above: Ethel Baldwin descends the staircase at Kaluanui, circa 1950. Though the lamp is long gone, the stained-glass window remains. Left: Artist Frances Baldwin Cameron started Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Society with her mother, Ethel, in 1934. Inset: Ethel, an accomplished silversmith, crafted dishes such as this annealed plate with pineapple decoration.
COURTESY OF HUI NO‘EAU VISUAL ARTS CENTER
HUI NO‘EAU VISUAL ARTS CENTER Est. 1934 It’s a picture-perfect summer morning when a college friend calls to tell me she’s vacationing on Maui. “Let’s get together!” she says. She’s an artist, so naturally I suggest we meet at the Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center in Makawao. As we wander around the scenic 25-acre property, my friend is visibly awestruck. “I could live here,” she sighs dreamily. I tell her that, in fact, someone did used to live here. “Wow,” she says, eyes wide with appreciation. “They must have really loved it.” They really did. Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center, known affectionately as “the Hui,” was founded in 1934, but the estate it calls home dates back to 1885, when Henry Perrine Baldwin, of the Alexander & Baldwin sugar-growing dynasty, purchased the parcel of land. Thirty years later, his son, Harry, and daughter-in-law, Ethel, decided to build their family home on the property, and recruited Harry’s cousin Charles “C.W.” Dickey, one of the most influential architects in Hawai‘i’s history, to design it. Dickey created a spectacular two-story Mediterranean-style villa with a matching guest house, carriage house and stable. The home was completed in 1917 and the Baldwins christened
Story by Sarah Ruppenthal
8 T H
A N N UA L
M A D E
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H AWA I I A N
M AU I
C O U N T Y
A I R L I N E S F E S T I VA L
NOVEMBER 5 & 6, 2021 VIRTUAL EVENT Shop with our Made in Maui County vendors for great gifts this holiday season.
F O R
M O R E
I N F O R M AT I O N
V I S I T
www.MadeInMauiCountyFestival.com S U P P O R T E D BY
P R E S E N T E D BY
ISLAND BUSINESS
Clockwise from top: An aerial view of Kaluanui estate. Classes are available for all ages and abilities in a variety of media, such as pottery, printmaking, metalsmithing and more. The Hui regularly hosts exhibits featuring local and visiting artists. Below (2): Sign up for a private or group class and your fee goes to support the Hui’s many educational programs.
The organization purchased the estate in 2005 and it became the nonprofit’s permanent home. Today, the Hui is a creative haven for artists of all styles and talents. Its century-old buildings have been transformed into working studios, galleries and classrooms where students of all ages and abilities can learn ceramics, drawing, glassblowing, photography, printmaking, painting, metalsmithing and jewelry-making. The Hui regularly hosts events such as exhibitions, workshops, youth art camps and lectures, and also rents the venue for meetings, weddings, and baby and bridal showers. An on-site gallery shop offers museum-quality gifts, unique souvenirs and handcrafted items from local artists and artisans. Visit the Hui and take a guided or self-guided tour of the estate to observe artists at work, view an exhibition, admire the architecture, or simply stand in the shadow of two of the largest Norfolk Island pines on Maui and absorb the serenity of this enduring estate. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao | HuiNoeau.com | 808.572.6560 | FB @Hui.Noeau
COURTESY OF HUI NO‘EAU VISUAL ARTS CENTER
the estate Kaluanui, which in Hawaiian means “the big pit,” a name which was given to the land long before because of its proximity to Māliko Gulch. Ethel was proficient in many artistic mediums, including drawing, painting, feather-stitching, metalworking and leatherworking. Her daughter, Frances Baldwin Cameron, was also an artist, and in 1934 they invited 20 friends to come to Kaluanui and make art. The group began to meet regularly at the estate and called themselves the Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Society. (In Hawaiian, hui means “club” and no‘eau means “skilled.”) Word of the club spread and membership grew, and soon Ethel and Frances registered the Hui as a nonprofit organization. In 1946 Harry passed away and six years later, Ethel moved out, placing the property in the hands of the Baldwin-owned Maui Land & Pineapple Company. Hui No‘eau remained active, meeting in various locations until 1976, when the club struck a deal with Harry and Ethel’s grandson, Colin Cameron, the first president and CEO of ML&P: The Hui would lease Kaluanui for $1 a year.
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OUR
COMMITMENT
Fairmont Kea Lani has a long-standing history of prioritizing the conservation of our natural resources and community service to our Maui ‘ohana (family). We share our kuleana (responsibility) with our Heartists (colleagues) and encourage guests to continue the positive effects of these actions. Our goal is to preserve the natural beauty of Hawaiʻi, educate and perpetuate its rich culture and care for na kamaliʻi (children) and na kupuna (respected elders) of Maui. Learn more and join us at Fairmont-Kea-Lani.com/Kuleana-Commitment
TYLUN PANG CELEBRATES 25 YEARS AS EXECUTIVE CHEF
Chef Pang’s deep commitment to perpetuate island culture and support the local community keeps him busy both inside and outside of the kitchen. Chef sources from within Maui and the Hawaiian islands for the freshest ingredients for Kō. With over 90% of fish, beef and produce sourced locally, the flavors are as authentic as they are sustainable. Join us in saying “mahalo nui loa” (thank you very much) for sharing your passion and talent.
4100 Wailea Alanui, Maui, Hawaiʻi | 808.875.4100 | Fairmont-Kea-Lani.com
ISLAND BUSINESS
ROYAL LAHAINA RESORT & SPA Est. 1962 Mod dresses. Paisley shirts. Pixie haircuts. That’s what you might have seen at the grand opening of the Royal Lahaina Resort & Spa in 1962. One of the first hotels in what would later become Kā‘anapali Beach Resort, the Royal Lahaina made its debut with a small collection of private beachside cottages. More cottages were added in ensuing years, for a total of 122, and today they continue to be guest favorites. In the early 1970s, the Royal Lahaina added the 12-story, 333-room Lahaina Kai Tower to its 27-acre oceanfront property. Around that same time, the Myths of Maui Lū‘au debuted at the hotel, showcasing the cultural and culinary spirit of the islands; it is now the longest-running oceanfront lū‘au on Maui. In 2020, the hotel underwent a property-wide renovation, revamping the tower rooms and remodeling many of the cottages as well as the lobby, restaurant, lounge and pool. And though things today may look different at the hotel since its opening in 1962, the Royal Lahaina Resort & Spa continues to be a home away from home, where guests make lasting memories. 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali | RoyalLahaina.com FB/IG @RoyalLahainaResort | 800.222.5642
More cottages were added to the grounds over the years for a total of 122, and the Lahaina Kai Tower was built in the early 1970s.
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TOP PANORAMA: KĀ‘ANAPALI LAND MANAGEMENT CORP. | ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF THE ROYAL LAHAINA RESORT & SPA
The Kā‘anapali Golf Course and the original grouping of cottages at the Royal Lahaina Resort & Spa, circa 1965. Right (2): Vintage publicity images for the Royal Lahaina.
A P O LY N E S I A N F E A S T & S H O W A musical and culinary journey to Hawai‘i, Aotearoa, Tahiti and Samoa.
AOTEAROA Land of the long white cloud, Aotearoa – New Zealand, is home to the Maori people.
SAMOA “The cradle of Polynesia,” literally the sacred center of its fiery soul.
HAWAI‘I We begin in our beautiful island home of Hawai‘i with our chants, songs and hula .
TAHITI The land of intrigue and romance, has beckoned explorers from around the world.
667-LELE (5353) • Toll-free: 1-866-244-5353 (LELE) 505 Front Street, Lahaina, Maui, Hawai‘i W W W. F E ASTAT L E L E .CO M
MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI CONTESTS
Win a Staycation 3 Nights in an oceanview studio at Napili Kai * Dinner for 2 at the Sea House Restaurant ** *blackout dates apply **alcohol not included
For entry form, rules, and restrictions, visit www.mauimagazine.net/ contests. Good luck! Contest runs November 1– December 31, 2021. Winner will be notified by email on January 6, 2022.
Presented by
COURTESY OF CHAMBERS & CHAMBERS WINE MERCHANTS
ISLAND BUSINESS
CHAMBERS & CHAMBERS WINE MERCHANTS Est. 1973 Chambers & Chambers was established in Napa Valley, California, by siblings Jack and Suzanne Chambers and Jack’s wife, Barbara. The trio ran all aspects of the business themselves, from purchase and delivery to accounting and administration. Their sweat equity paid off, and soon the company began to represent several wine estates in Burgundy, France. In 1979 the Top (2): Jack and Suzanne Chambers. Above, company began to distribute select wines left to right: Barbara, Suzanne and Jack Chambers in 2018 at a 45th anniversary from California. Jack was also an airline celebration for the company. pilot, and while based in Hawai‘i he noticed that there was a very limited selection of quality wines in the islands. He saw an opportunity for expansion, and the company started distributing wine all over Hawai‘i. Today, Chambers & Chambers has more than 100 employees and handles wines, spirits and sake from nearly 300 wineries in 15 countries. Many of these libations are served in restaurants and sold in hotels and retail shops on Maui. Every year, the company participates in the Kapalua Wine & Food Festival and also sponsors wines for Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series and annual ‘Aipono Awards Gala. ChambersWines.com | FB/IG @ChambersWinesHawaii | 808.832.4900
MAUI HANDS Est. 1992 Panna Speas Cappelli opened the first Maui Hands gallery in the Makawao Courtyard in the summer of 1992 and featured works from 25 local artists. Today, there are four Maui Hands locations — Makawao, Lahaina, Pā‘ia and The Shops at Wailea — and all still carry genuine made-on-Maui artwork. Collectively, Maui Hands represents more than 300 of Hawai‘i’s most respected artists working in a variety of media, including ceramics, painting, printing, woodworking, sculpting, glassblowing and jewelry-making, and also features the largest collection of Ni‘ihau shell lei on Maui. (Ni‘ihau are the only shells in the world insurable as a gemstone, and some lei are worth thousands!) Want to see some artists at work? Maui Hands hosts an ongoing artist-in-residence program that affords visitors and locals alike the opportunity to observe the artists, learn about their processes, or just “talk story.” MauiHands.com | FB/IG @MauiHands | 1169 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 808.572.2008 | 84 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 808.579.9245 | 612 Front St., Lahaina, 808.667.9898 | The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 808.667.7997 To read more about Ni‘ihau shells, go to mauimagazine.net/the-flowers-of-niihau.
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The new best reason to visit the slopes of haleakaLA
Mahalo Aleworks is a new artisinal brewery located upcountry Maui. We use the best local and seasonal ingredients to create exciting beers not found anywhere else on earth. Our wide-open taproom hosts a downstairs lanai, as well as three balconies upstairs with a panoramic view of the ocean and mountains. Come visit us on your next journey upcountry!
www.mahaloaleworks.com 30 kupaoa St. #101, Makawao
#saymahaloforbeer
Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov-Dec 2021
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Shaka List 2021 2O REASONS TO LOVE MAUI
Every year we publish our Shaka List — the multitude of reasons Maui is nō ka ‘oi (the best) — and this time our staff offered up their personal lucky-to-live-on-Maui suggestions. From trees to seas, shoes to views — these intimate, inspirational details are what make our island home the magical place that it is. Story by Lara McGlashan
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MAUI STYLE
GIVING LEI — JUST BECAUSE!
Lei are not just for greeting arriving visitors island-style. They can be given to anyone for any reason any time of year. Aloha! Illustration by Matthew Foster
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A DAY AT NĀPILI BAY This
tidy little crescent of white sand is protected from the trade winds by a husky finger of lava rock, pointing upward and westward from Kapalua. Ride undulating waves on an inner tube or boogie board, or snorkel and explore the sea life along the edges. Hungry? Grab a bite at the Sea House — just steps away from the sand! Photo by John Giordani
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JACARANDAS IN BLOOM
Head Upcountry between April and June and you’ll find yourself in a lavender-colored wonderland. Former mayor Elmer F. Cravalho persuaded the highway commission to plant jacaranda trees along the roadside in Kula and Pukalani. When in bloom, the 40-foot-tall trees sport 12-inch bundles of sweet-smelling trumpet flowers, heralding the approach of spring. Photo by Rob DeCamp
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RESURGENCE OF HAWAIIAN LANGUAGE
The Hawaiian words pūnana leo translate as “nest of voices,” an apt name for Maui’s first Hawaiianimmersion school. Launched in 1987 in Wailuku, Pūnana Leo O Maui was fueled by a singular mission: E Ola Ka Ōlelo Hawai‘i — “The Hawaiian language shall live.” Its success spawned satellite schools around the island to educate our keiki (children) about their Hawaiian culture through language, and to foster their identity and kuleana (responsibility) as Native Hawaiians. Image courtesy of Pūnana Leo O Maui.
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SUNFLOWER POWER A spectacular sight located at the
intersection of the Honoapi‘ilani and Kuihelani highways, this 12-acre plot of sunflowers is usually in full bloom by late summer. Pacific Biodiesel plants and harvests the flowers to create renewable fuel. They’re certainly a lovely attraction, but since it’s neither safe nor legal to stop on the highway, please enjoy them on the go. Photo by Cesere Brothers
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MAUI STYLE
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RUBBAH SLEEPAHS
Only in Hawai‘i are rubber slippers — aka flip-flops — considered formal wear — even in five-star establishments! Illustration by Matthew Foster
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GRANDMA’S COFFEE HOUSE, KULA Perched on the slopes of
Haleakalā, Grandma’s is one of those old Maui staples that exudes Upcountry charm. Since 1918, “Grandma,” a lifelong resident of Makawao, has roasted and blended Grandma’s Coffee, and the shop is a peaceful place to stop and refuel before heading to Kaupō or Kīpahulu. Enjoy a cuppa joe and a sweet treat with friends and family in a wooden booth rubbed smooth by time. Photo by Mieko Horikoshi
POLIPOLI CABIN This former ranger’s cabin in the Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area is located 6,200 feet up in the Kula Forest Reserve. Spend the day hiking, then stay the night and be treated to stunning sunrise views of Maui in a quiet, romantic Upcountry setting. Be prepared to rough it a little, though: There’s no bedding, electricity or refrigeration, and nighttime temperatures can dip below freezing — even in summer! Photo by Adelle Lennox
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HOT CHOCOLATE AT SUNSET ON HALEAKALĀ
Enjoy an unobstructed view of the sun dropping below the horizon from atop the highest point on Maui. Bring a thermos of hot chocolate to chase away the chill and toast your loved ones as day rolls colorfully into night. Photo by Andrew Shoemaker
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SONGS OF THE SEA
If you’re on Maui between November and February, follow these steps exactly: When the sea is calm, wade in, take a deep breath, submerge slowly and be still. There, beneath the blue, you’ll hear the humpback whales singing their surreal songs of travel and family and birth, talking to one another across the channel and beyond. Illustration by Matthew Foster
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ENERGIZE YOUR A.M. Enjoy expansive ocean views at Cane & Canoe — the open-air restaurant at The Montage Kapalua Bay — as you break your fast with an Energy 2.0 Bowl: frozen dragonfruit puree topped with papaya, apple bananas, strawberries, house-made granola and a sprinkle of toasted coconut. Big enough to share! Photo courtesy of The Montage Kapalua Bay.
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TIDE POOLS Head for a shallow area along the coast
during low tide, pick your way across the exposed rocks to the water’s edge and slowly, carefully, lift a stone or two. Beneath you may find any manner of marine life, such as sea cucumbers, urchins, crabs and starfish. Diligent sea-searchers may even glimpse a baby striped eel or an octopus whose speckles and spots exactly match the ocean floor. Gently replace all the stones you’ve overturned, and please — no touching. Photo by Lara McGlashan
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MAUI STYLE
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SWAP SHOP A favorite among locals and visitors alike since 1981, the Maui Swap Meet in Kahului offers all kinds of locally made items from more than 200 vendors, including tee-shirts, jewelry, flowers, baked goods, and fruits and veggies. It’s great for peoplewatching, too! Open Saturdays from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. in the parking lot of the University of Hawai‘i-Maui College. Photo by Mark Choe
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SISTER-ISLAND VIEWS
Step out your front door pretty much anywhere on Maui and you’ll see one of our neighbor islands. From Moloka‘i to Molokini, Lāna‘i to Kaho‘olawe — and on a clear day O‘ahu or even Hawai‘i Island — knowing our sisters are close by quells any feelings of isolation. Photo by Mieko Horikoshi
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MOVIES AL FRESCO With consistently
comfortable weather, every night is outdoor movie night in South Maui! All you need is a screen, some open space and good friends. Photo by Patrick Wardle
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MAUI STYLE
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HALE HŌ‘IKE‘IKE Attention history buffs: Hale Hō‘ike‘ike — home to the Maui Historical Society — is a must-see stop in Wailuku. With 2,000 pre-Western-contact artifacts and more than 10,000 historic photos, maps and genealogy records, the museum is a great place to learn about Maui’s rich and storied past. Remember to visit the gift shop for one-of-a-kind locally made souvenirs. Entry by appointment only. mauimuseum.org. Photo courtesy of Hale Hō‘ike‘ike. THE BIGGEST BANYAN You can’t say “Lahaina” without thinking of the enormous banyan tree in front of the Lahaina Courthouse, but in 1873 when it was planted, it was just an eight-foot sapling. Today, the tree is more than 60 feet high and a quarter-mile in circumference, making it the largest banyan in both Hawai‘i and the US! For nearly 150 years, its branches and aerial roots have slowly marched outward, and the dense canopy with 16 individual trunks now covers almost two acres of oceanfront real estate. Photo by Rob DeCamp
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HOLY GHOST CHURCH (aka Holy Ghost
Mission) In the 14th century, Queen Isabella the First of Spain prayed to end a devastating drought and offered her crown to God if He would make it rain — and rain it did. Designed by Father James Biessel, the octagonal Holy Ghost Church in Makawao is said to have been built to recall the shape of the queen’s crown. (Though others argue that an eight-sided building can better withstand the wind.) The large gilded altar and artwork depicting the stations of the cross were carried up the mountain by oxcart. Holy Ghost Church is listed on the State and Natural Registers of Historic Places, and services are held regularly. Photo by Daniel Sullivan
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WATERSPORTS AT KANAHĀ BEACH PARK
Even if you’re not the daredevil type yourself, you’ll appreciate the incredible flying feats of the kiteboarders, windsurfers and foilboarders at Kanahā Beach Park. When the wind kicks up, these athletes pull off some aerial acrobatics that rival any Cirque du Soleil show in Las Vegas. Settle in along Kanahā’s stretch of sand and parkland between Kahului Bay and Spreckelsville Beach to spectate, with the West Maui mountain and ‘Īao Valley beyond making for a beautiful backdrop. Photo by John Giordani Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov-Dec 2021
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MAUI STYLE
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KAMA‘OLE BEACH PARKS The three
Kama‘ole beach parks (affectionately called Kam I, Kam II and Kam III) comprise the majority of the Kīhei coastline. With sandy bottoms for swimming, rocky outcroppings for snorkeling and grassy areas for picnicking, these parks have everything you need to enjoy a fun-filled day — including lifeguards! Fun fact: “Kama‘ole” means “barren” in Hawaiian and was the original name of what is now called Kīhei — which makes sense considering that the area typically gets less than 13 inches of rain per year. Photo by Andrew Shoemaker
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THE THOUSAND- Y
STORY BY SHANNON WIANECKI PHOTOGRAPHY BY SUE HUDELSON
The gift of pa‘i‘ai is as symbolic as it is sustaining. In Hawaiian belief, the kalo (taro) inside is mankind’s older brother, a reminder of humanity’s connection to all nature.
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HAWAIIAN SOUL
- YEAR-OLD GIFT Hawaiian culture evolved over millennia, then almost disappeared after Western contact. Maui’s cultural advisors are committed to bringing it back.
Growing up in the Islands, I’ve learned that whenever I sit down with Hawaiians, I leave a little — or a lot — richer. So when four cultural advisors invited me to listen in on a discussion of their work, I made sure not to arrive empty-handed. A local farmer provided me with something to show my appreciation: four bundles of pa‘i‘ai, pounded taro lovingly wrapped in ti leaves. I toted them to the Maui Arts & Cultural Center where Hōkūlani Holt, Clifford Nae‘ole, Makalapua Kanuha and Kainoa Horcajo sat talking story in the shade. Four warm smiles let me know that the pa‘i‘ai had been the right choice. I had some idea of what cultural advisors do, having seen each of these four community leaders in action. Serving as intermediaries between Hawai‘i’s indigenous culture and its visitor industry, they bridge seemingly disparate worlds: ancient/ modern, cultural/commercial, sacred/profane, local/tourist. They’re the ones called upon to preside over blessings, open conferences with Hawaiian chants, christen new projects and teach residents and visitors alike what it means to be Hawaiian. Their jobs didn’t exist four decades ago. If a resort happened to employ someone knowledgeable in Hawaiian arts, he or she was likely relegated to stringing lei with keiki (children) or teaching malihini (newcomers) a few hula moves in the lobby. “Hawaiian themes were not valued as they are now,” says Holt. “They were seen as window dressing, not as a culture that has depth and breadth of knowledge.” As they talk, I realize that what they do is not just a job to them; it’s a sacred trust — what Nae‘ole calls kuleana, responsibility. “Kuleana also means privilege,” adds Holt. “We have the privilege of being in places that can affect change, of being able to carry forward the ‘i‘o, the meat, of the culture. With that
Top and bottom: Exchanging hā (breath) is a traditional greeting as intimate as an embrace. Middle: For Hawaiian practitioners Nae‘ole, Kanuha, Horcajo and Holt, restoring a culture which was nearly lost is just as essential as that breath.
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Above: Hōkūlani Holt (left) and Kainoa Horcajo
privilege comes great responsibility, not to ourselves, but to our past and future. We were raised to be non-Hawaiians, to be assimilated into American thinking and lifestyle. But if [what we do] is good for Hawaiians, if it uplifts our culture, then it’s good for everybody who lives in Hawai‘i, no matter where they come from.” What launched them on this powerful path? “There’s a Hawaiian term called koho‘ia,” says Holt. “It means ‘chosen.’ You don’t choose. It is koho‘ia, chosen for you.” “Sometimes you get the calling, but sometimes you get the telling,” says Horcajo to laughs and nods around the table. “And no matter how much you want to say, I’m not ready, it’s not really your call to make." For Horcajo that call came from Kahu Lyons Naone, the man who trained him in lua, the Hawaiian martial arts Horcajo
“If what we do is good for Hawaiians, it’s good for everybody who lives in Hawai‘i, no matter where they come from.” would later teach. “Kahu said, Kainoa, I need you out in Kīpahulu.” “And the only appropriate answer is, Okay," laughs Holt. Of the four, Holt has had the most direct career path. Raised by her grandparents, she was steeped in Hawaiian culture from birth. Holt began teaching hula at age 20 and founded her esteemed hālau (school) in 1976. As the cultural program director for the Maui Arts & Cultural Center, Holt was instrumental in bringing in top-notch Hawaiian performances and facilitated the creation of new works, from Hawaiian-language operas to a groundbreaking exhibit that mixed traditional and modern
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approaches to making kapa, Hawaiian barkcloth. Today, Holt directs Ka Hikina O Ka Lā, the University of Hawai‘i-Maui College's scholarship program for Hawaiian Students. Nae‘ole found his path later in life. As a young man, he wasn’t interested in taking over his grandfather’s taro farm — his duty as the hiapo, or firstborn — and left Hawai‘i for the mainland. When he returned years later, he found the family’s lo‘i (taro patch) in ruins. The consequences of his choice shook him. After enrolling his son in Hawaiian language immersion school, he felt chastened when he couldn’t help the boy with his homework. “So I started with hula," he says. “From hula came the root of the language, then came the chant and spirituality, and the doors just busted wide open after that.” In 1992, Nae‘ole assumed his current role as cultural advisor for The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, at a dramatic moment in contemporary Hawaiian history: During the resort’s construction, builders discovered the remains of thousands of Hawaiians buried in the Honokahua sand dunes. Native Hawaiians rallied to protect their ancestors’ iwi (bones), ultimately halting work on the hotel. “I was serving on the burial council, and that put me on two sides: the council and The Ritz-Carlton," says Nae‘ole. “I knew that my responsibility was to the kūpuna [elders] and there were times when I had to say to my employer, I’m sorry but this won’t work. You have to abide by these rules. Thankfully, [they] always listened to what I had to say.” The Ritz-Carlton agreed to relocate the hotel farther inland, and the remains were reinterred according to traditional protocols. “Being there, actually putting the iwi back into the earth ... that was and is still a very strong emotional attachment for me,” Nae‘ole says. Over the years, Nae‘ole has educated and advised thousands of employees, guests and visitors. He pioneered a host of educational programs on proper Hawaiian protocol, traditions and mo‘olelo (storytelling). In partnership with The Ritz-Carlton, Nae‘ole offers a weekly Sense of Place video, discussion and walk to the Honokahua preservation site. Kanuha never imagined she’d be a cultural advisor. The striking chestnut-haired hula dancer planned to sing and dance her way around the world, a goal that she achieved early on. “My turning point was political," she says. “It was the 100-year a nniversary of the overthrow of our queen. That’s when it sparked
Above: Clifford Nae‘ole (left) and Makalapua Kanuha
in my mind: what was I doing for my country or my people? Are my grandkids going to say, How come you never did something?” When the Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas offered Kanuha a job, her family nearly called a tribal meeting to dissuade her from taking it. “Everybody asked, Why? They’re going to change you,” she says. But Kanuha saw the chance to influence one of the largest resorts in Hawai‘i from the inside out. “My original position was guest activities director/cultural person," Kanuha says. “They didn’t have a cultural orientation program for new hires. That’s where I love to be — part of the decision-making, at least by witnessing and saying, Excuse me, why don’t we do it this way? Because this is the proper way to do it.” After several long consultations with her employer — and a few ultimatums — she transitioned to full-time director of culture, and then became the complex director of culture for the Westin Ocean Resort Villas and the Westin Nanea Ocean Villas. She oversaw the construction of the resorts' cultural center and regularly teaches Hawaiian language classes. Listening to them, I’m envious. Like many Americans, I’m culturally adrift. I know next to nothing about my ancestors who hail from various parts of Europe. I can’t imagine what it would feel like to trace my lineage back centuries, identifying the specific people, places and communities that helped form me. To belong to a single community. But they haven’t had it easy. The Hawaiian Renaissance of the 1970s delivered the equivalent of defibrillator shocks to a culture suffering from near-catastrophic injuries. From the time of Western contact in 1778, kanaka maoli (Native Hawaiians) had endured insult upon injury to their 1,000-year-old traditions. Early missionaries condemned sacred Hawaiian dance as lascivious, while entrepreneurs exported hula skirts as exotic souvenirs. After the overthrow of Queen Lili‘uokalani in 1893, schoolteachers punished Hawaiian children for speaking their native language. Astoundingly, the law forbidding classroom instruction in ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i wasn't repealed until 1986, nearly 100 years later. Attitudes towards Hawaiian culture have changed — due in no small part to those gathered today. Kanuha, Nae‘ole and Holt belong to the generation on the cusp of the Hawaiian Renaissance. They’ve had to figure out their roles while reassembling their culture and overcoming stereotypes about what it is to be Hawaiian. Increasingly, Hawai‘i visitors and residents alike crave authenticity; they want to experience full-strength aloha, not a watered-down version.
Island executives better recognize the value of incorporating traditional Hawaiian practices and beliefs in the workplace, and many now employ cultural advisors to steer their businesses in the right direction. Horcajo, the junior member of this esteemed group, represents the next generation of cultural advisors. He, too, was inspired by the commemoration of the queen’s overthrow. He was 11 years old, one of many Hawaiians packed into the War Memorial Stadium in a show of solidarity. “I didn’t know what was going on, but I saw all of these proud people," he says. “It was an awakening for me.” He began investigating Hawaiian culture, studied indigenous politics in college and later discovered lua. He's still very much a student, but has begun to see the impact he can have. Once he helped teach a four-hour class in Hawaiian culture and hospitality for airport security agents. “Afterward, this Hawaiian boy, very local with a beautiful kakau [tattoo] on his arm, came up to me and said, Your class was the first time I ever felt proud to be Hawaiian.” Horcajo was floored. In 2013, Horcajo brought that native energy to the Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort, where he helped shape the resort’s identity from the ground up, choosing culturally appropriate names for its restaurants and spa and designing educational activities for guests and employees. He then served as Hawaiian cultural ambassador and director of culture for the Grand Wailea Maui Resort, and today owns a cultural consultancy called The Mo‘olelo Group, which focuses on cultural integration and community outreach. “We’re living in a wonderful time for Hawaiians and Hawaiian culture,” says Holt, her voice humming with optimism. “Our parents thought they had to choose between English and Hawaiian. Today, we know we can have it all. We know that our culture is valuable. It’s valuable to us who live here, and it’s valuable to people elsewhere.” “Four of my grandsons participated in the Ho‘okuikahi festival [commemorating the founding of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i by Kamehameha the Great]," says Kanuha. “The next generation has got the Hawaiian language, and now they’re seeing kanaka men doing their kuleana. They, too, will learn service, and what it is to be k anaka maoli into this time.” “Many, many people have come before us,” says Holt. “They’ve laid this foundation of appreciation for Hawaiian culture and the place where we live. Despite all those years of struggling ... and many more struggles yet to come ... it’s a good time for blossoming. If we can open one mind, if we can influence one decision for the benefit of Hawaiian culture — we live our life for that one.” Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov-Dec 2021
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AT HOME
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Going Platinum Style and sustainability live in harmony in this innovative North Shore home.
Story by Sarah Ruppenthal Photography by Ryan Siphers
The living room features locally sourced decor, including framed feather lei handcrafted by Maui artisan Jamie Woodburn, a mango-wood countertop, and a bowl and surfboard carved from a fallen milo tree. The sofas, chairs, table, ottoman and throw pillows are from HUE Interior Design & Home Furnishings. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov-Dec 2021
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AT HOME
W
hat comes to mind when you think of a “green” home? An off-the-grid cabin in the middle of nowhere? An ultra-modern smart house that operates with the touch of an app? Cast aside those stereotypes, because today’s green homes are livable — and lovable. Case in point: John and Kristi Bendon’s residence on the North Shore of Maui. At first glance, the plantation-meets-Craftsman-style structure is charming, but once inside, charm teams up with tech, and it’s immediately evident why this was the first home on Maui to earn the coveted Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) platinum-level certification. Developed by the nonprofit U.S. Green Building Council, LEED is the most widely used green-building rating system on the planet. New, old, commercial or residential — nearly any kind of building can become LEED certified by earning points for the implementation of green strategies across nine categories. The final tally determines a building’s rating: certified, silver, gold or platinum. John Bendon knows a thing or two about LEED. In 2007, he founded Green Building Hawaii to help clients design, construct, operate and maintain high-performance buildings. The company’s project list includes everything from single-family homes to luxury hotels such as the Hyatt Regency Maui, the first LEED resort in the state. “My 15-year journey with Green Building Hawaii has been fun,” he says. “The fact that we [also] had an opportunity to build a house of our own and implement the tools and techniques that we’ve been helping
Above: Plantation and Craftsman styles merge in this home designed by Ha‘ikū architect Linda Lange and constructed by local contractor Rusty Dukes. Below: Behind the garage, a frameless, waterproof structure constructed of Lumos solar panels simultaneously harvests sunlight and shades a second-floor lānai.
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Well-placed windows and fans naturally ventilate the home. Chairs from HUE add a touch of modern to the Bendons’ heirloom dining table. Pendant lights above the island illuminate durable quartz countertops, and stainless-steel appliances from Hamai Appliance perfectly offset the ultra-white cabinetry.
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AT HOME
Above: A solar-powered, variable-speed pool pump ramps up and down throughout the day to match the photovoltaic output and save energy. Below: A water heater located directly beneath the master bathroom means nearinstant hot water delivered to WaterSense low-flow fixtures.
clients with has been a dream come true.” Built on a former sugarcane plot, the Bendons' home features four bedrooms and four-and-a-half baths. It is constructed with durable, low-impact materials, such as eco-friendly, low-maintenance fiber-cement siding and trim; recycled stone veneer; recycled glass insulation; and window frames and decks made from recycled composites. The house is net zero, meaning it produces as much electricity as it uses over the course of a year. Solar panels on the roof and behind the garage power a battery system that captures and stores enough energy for nighttime use, or to run the home during a power outage. Energy-saving features abound, including LED lighting, Energy Star appliances and tubular skylights that let in natural light. High-efficiency water heaters strategically placed underneath the kitchen and bathroom mean that less water is wasted while the user waits for it to heat up. And high-efficiency toilets, showerheads and faucets save water throughout. Design plays a big role in the comfort of the home. A cross-breeze layout, heat-blocking windows, and a whole-house fan system that pulls in cool air from open windows and pushes hot air out through vents in the roof keep the interior temperate and cool. A tight “building envelope” prevents cool air from leaking out through doors and windows, and when the house is closed and the air conditioning is running, a ventilation system kicks in, replacing stale air with fresh from outside. In the garden, a solar-powered pump draws well water into a multi-zone drip-irrigation system and delivers it to the Bendons’ fruit
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maintenance) P.O. Box 546, Kula | 808.214.0205
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LINDA LANGE (architect) | 808.575.9043 | LindaLangeAIA@gmail.com
RISING SUN SOLAR (solar installation) 269 Papa Pl., Kahului | RisingSunSolar.com | 808.575.2022
CLIFTON DODGE, KĪNĀ ‘OLE SUSTAINABLE LAND USE (landscape contractor) KinaOleSustainableLandUse.com | 808.870.6333
MAUI GARAGE DOORS 2000 Maui Veterans Hwy., Kahului | MauiGarageDoors.com | 808.871.8888
GREEN BUILDING HAWAII (LEED certification) GreenBuildingHawaii.com | 808.873.2040
MAUI POOL MASTERS (pool and concrete work) 173 Ho‘ohana St., Kahului | MauiPoolMasters.com | 808.868.4227
HUE INTERIOR DESIGN & HOME FURNISHINGS (furniture, accents)
PAUL GILLESPIE, GREEN EARTH LANDSCAPE MANAGEMENT (landscape contractor/
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RUSTY DUKES (general contractor) 808.876.0039 VALLEY ISLE LIGHTING 255 Alamaha St., Kahului | ValleyIsleLighting.net | 808.871.1119 ZACH HANSEL, LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE STUDIO (landscape architect) P.O. Box 758, Wailuku | Hansellas@live.com | 808.269.1175
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AT HOME Rocks and boulders salvaged from a nearby construction site form the base for the dry-stack retaining walls in the garden. And a high-efficiency irrigation system uses well water so this green property stays, well, green.
trees and native and adaptive landscaping. Out front, a grass paving system replaces impermeable concrete hardscaping, allowing water to be absorbed into the ground. In back of the home, water flows into a grassy retention basin when it rains, preventing runoff from entering the storm sewer system — and ultimately, the ocean. Platinum-level tech aside, the home’s ambiance is friendly and inviting. The exterior is painted in soft shades of gray, and the doors are a cheery Parisian blue. Inside, the crisp, white walls brighten an open-plan design, and weathered white-oak flooring and modern kid- and pet-friendly furniture stand up to the happy traffic of an active family of five. Ample windows let in lots of natural light and glass doors open onto a large covered lānai for easy indoor/outdoor living. Of course, there are financial benefits to having a highperformance green home, such as next-to-nothing utility bills, tax incentives, and cleaner air and water, but the best perk of all is helping make the world a better place. “There is a lot of satisfaction [in] looking out across our yard, watching the kids play and knowing that we took an old cane field and turned it into something better,” says John Bendon. “A place that is good for both people and the environment.” To learn more about LEED certification, visit USGBC.org/LEED.
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From top: The Bendons chose enduring, lowmaintenance materials made from recycled content, like Hardie fiber-cement siding and Creative Mines stone veneer. The Trex deck and interior stairs are a combination of 95 percent reclaimed wood and recycled plastic. Low-flow touchless faucets save water. Garage doors made from sustainably sourced Tricoya acetylated wood are as beautiful as they are ecofriendly. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov-Dec 2021
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Lara’s favorite pumpkin spice bread
Diane’s green salad with kale, tomatoes, beets and Maui Olive Company vinaigrette
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Rita’s “secret” sweet and creamy noodle kugel
Diane’s citrus- and herb-roasted turkey
Adelle’s chocolate chiptastic mini Bundt cakes
Nancy’s cranberry-pecan mini goat cheese balls
Mike’s Thai-style coconut rice
Story by Becky Speere | Photography by Mieko Horikoshi
Diane’s heavenly challah (bread)
Diane’s slow-cooked wine-braised venison shoulder
Diane’s kasha and varnishkas (buckwheat groats and bow-tie pasta)
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Nothing brings family, friends – and coworkers! — together like a potluck dinner. This year, each Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi staffer brought his or her favorite dish to share and celebrate the season’s eatings.
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raditionally, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi hosts an annual Holiday Test Kitchen, inviting one of Maui’s finest chefs to put us through our paces and teach us step-by-step how to make a special holiday meal. But given this unprecedented year — a nd with our deadline looming — we had to take a different approach. “Who’s going to cook?” asked publisher Diane Woodburn. “We need a chef.” “You be the chef, Diane,” I suggested. “You love to cook! If you make the entrees we will bring the apps, sides and desserts.” The staff, who are all very familiar with Diane’s cooking prowess, were immediately on board. “I’ll make appetizers!” said subscription manager Nancy Wenske. “I only know two recipes, spinach lasagna and kugel,” said consulting editor Rita Goldman. “Please make kugel, Rita,” I responded, remembering her decadent noodle pudding from past MNKO office gatherings. Website manager Adelle Lennox was happy to make her famous chocolate chip mini Bundt cakes. “I made this recipe recently for friends and they loved it!” she said. “Rita will love those!” I said, knowing her weakness for anything chocolate. Lara McGlashan, our editor-in-chief, jumped in with a family fave. “Pumpkin bread is my go-to holiday recipe,” she said. “I’ve been making it since I was a kid.” Group publisher Michael Haynes admitted that he didn’t inherit Diane’s passion for cooking. “I honestly can’t cook, so I’m bringing rice,” he said. “I’ll cover the veggies,” I added. “Kumu Farms is donating a big box. And Hawaii Sea Spirits, MauiWine and Vitalitea will supply everything we need for our mixology cocktails. We’ve got it covered!” On the day of the event, I arrive at the Woodburns’ Kula home and can immediately tell that Diane is in her happy place. She has been cleaning and prepping food for a week in anticipation of today’s photo shoot, and has brined a 20-pound turkey, baked golden challah loaves, and harvested flowers, herbs, onions, beets and carrots from her garden. I peek into the oven at the big, bronzed turkey. It’s nearly done and the familiar savory aroma fills the dining room, reminding me of holidays past and eliciting a rumble from my stomach in Continued on Page 70. anticipation.
From top: Our perfectly set dining table has an unparalleled view of Lāna‘i, the Pali and South Maui. Dining editor Becky Speere pours a bottle of sparkling Hula O Maui pineapple wine at the self-service cocktail station. Editor-in-chief Lara McGlashan adds a floater of Kula Rum to the dairy-free holiday eggnog. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov-Dec 2021
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, OUR SEASON S EATINGS RECIPES APPETIZER CRANBERRY-PECAN MINI GOAT CHEESE BALLS Prep Time: 1 hour Makes 10–12 Servings This appetizer is easy to make, and is all at once sweet, savory and colorful! Sometimes I use macadamia nuts and sour cherries instead of pecans and cranberries to change things up.
or more coating options and arrange on a plate. Cover loosely with foil and refrigerate. When ready to eat, spear each ball with a pretzel stick and serve with crackers.
MAIN COURSE HOLIDAY TURKEY Prep Time: 30 minutes + 12–24 hours | Roasting Time: 4–5 hours | Makes 15–20 Servings
— Nancy Wenske, Subscriptions and Office Manager The secret to perfect turkey?
Ingredients Cheese Balls 2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, softened 4 ounces goat cheese (We recommend local brand Surfing Goat Dairy.) 4 ounces white cheddar cheese, grated ½ cup dried cranberries, roughly chopped ½ cup pecans, finely chopped ¼ cup chives, thinly sliced
Brining. I always brine my turkey. It is foolproof, and yields a juicy and delicious bird. When brining, make sure your water is very, very cold. If necessary, add ice cubes to chill it down even more! — Diane Woodburn, Publisher
Garnishes 30 pretzel sticks 1 package crackers
PART 1 Ingredients Brine 2 gallons very cold water, divided 1 cup salt 1 cup brown sugar 2 oranges, quartered 2 lemons, quartered 1 small bunch fresh thyme 1 sprig fresh rosemary 1 sprig fresh sage 1 teaspoon whole peppercorns 1–2 cinnamon sticks 1 (20-pound) whole turkey
Directions Combine cheeseball ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Use a small cookie scoop to portion out mixture. Roll into a ball using your hands. Place each coating ingredient into a separate, shallow bowl. Roll balls in one
Homemade Broth turkey neck and giblets 1 quart water 2 large carrots, roughly chopped 2 stalks celery, roughly chopped 1 onion, diced
Coating ½ cup chives, thinly sliced ½ cup pecans, finely chopped ½ cup dried cranberries, chopped
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Directions To a large, deep pot, add 1½ gallons water, salt and brown sugar. Stir until dissolved. Squeeze orange and lemon quarters into pot, then toss in the rinds. Add thyme, rosemary, sage, peppercorns and cinnamon sticks and stir to combine. Remove neck and giblets from turkey cavity and set aside. Place turkey in pot, breast-side down. Add remaining water. Turkey should be fully immersed. Cover and refrigerate 12 to 24 hours. Add homemade broth ingredients to a soup pot and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook 1 to 2 hours. Remove from heat and store in an airtight container in the fridge. PART 2 Ingredients Turkey 1½ tablespoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves 4 fresh sage leaves 2 teaspoons tarragon leaves 1 teaspoon paprika 1 box chicken broth, for basting already-brined turkey Gravy 1 quart boxed or canned chicken broth 2 cups Homemade Broth (See recipe.) ¼ cup milk 3 tablespoons cornstarch ½ cup dry white wine Directions Preheat oven to 350 F. Remove turkey from
brine and rinse thoroughly inside and out. Pat outside dry. Place in a roasting pan and season with salt and pepper. Add thyme, sage and tarragon to a small bowl and mash together. Rub herbs onto turkey inside and out. Sprinkle with paprika. Cover loosely with tinfoil and roast, basting occasionally with chicken broth until internal temperature in the thickest part of the thigh reaches 164 F, about 4 to 5 hours (12 to 13 minutes per pound). Remove from oven and place on a carving board. Gravy Skim turkey fat from roasting pan and discard. Pour chicken broth and Homemade Broth into pan and place over medium heat. Using a wooden spoon, scrape bottom of pan to release the fond (the brown bits of caramelized juices from roasting the turkey). Mix cornstarch and milk in a measuring cup until smooth. When broth begins to simmer, slowly whisk in cornstarch mixture until well combined. Add wine and cook, stirring often, until consistency is silky. Adjust seasonings to taste.
DESSERTS CHOCOLATE CHIPTASTIC BUNDT CAKE Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 20 minutes | Makes 12 mini Bundt cakes or 24 cupcakes It is with a tiny bit of shame that I admit that this recipe is not 100 percent from scratch.
DINING Opposite, from left: Nancy, Diane, Adelle and Lara pose with their dishes on the Woodburns’ deck. Right: Diane’s golden turkey stuffed with lemons, onions and apples, is served with roasted Moloka‘i purple sweet potatoes and garnished with fresh-cut herbs. Below: Locally sourced venison makes for a hearty holiday entree, and pairs perfectly with more mild-flavored dishes such as Diane’s kasha and varnishkas or Michael’s coconut rice.
It uses a boxed cake mix. However, it’s insanely delicious and really easy to make. I like to use mini Bundt pans, but you can also make cupcakes that taste just as great! — Adelle Lennox, Website Manager
Ingredients 1 package boxed chocolate cake mix 1 package instant chocolate pudding ¾ cup plain organic yogurt ½ cup coconut oil, melted ½ cup water 4 eggs 1 tablespoon vanilla 1 cup mini chocolate chips Directions Add all ingredients except chocolate chips to a large bowl and beat on low speed with an electric mixer to moisten. Increase speed to medium and beat 2 minutes. Stir in chocolate chips. Pour into greased and floured pans, filling each halfway. Bake 20 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Cool in pan 10 minutes. Invert cakes onto wire rack and cool completely. Serve with vanilla ice cream.
PUMPKIN SPICE BREAD Prep Time: 20 minutes + 1 hour baking time | Makes 2 loaves We have been making this pumpkin bread since I was in grade school and it has become a yearly tradition with my family. We tweaked the recipe over the years, replacing the vegetable
oil with applesauce, and adding more cinnamon. It goes well with both Thanksgiving and Christmas meals! — Lara McGlashan, Editor-in-Chief
Ingredients 4 eggs, beaten 3 cups sugar 1 cup unsweetened applesauce 1 (15-ounce) can pumpkin puree (not “pumpkin
pie” filling) 3½ cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking soda 1 teaspoon baking powder 2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon ground cloves 2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon nutmeg 1 teaspoon allspice 2/3 cup water Directions Preheat oven to 350 F. Add eggs, sugar and
applesauce to a bowl and beat with electric mixer on high until well combined. Add pumpkin puree and beat again. Combine dry ingredients in a separate bowl. In ½-cup portions, beat into wet ingredients. Batter will be very thick. Add water and beat again. Pour into two greased loaf pans. Bake 45 to 60 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov-Dec 2021
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Top: Cheers! The staff of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, clockwise from left: Rita Goldman, Adelle Lennox, Nancy Wenske, Chris Speere, Becky Speere, Diane Woodburn, Lara McGlashan and Michael Haynes. Above, left to right: Chris expertly carves the roasted turkey. The perfect pot-luck plate has a little taste of everything — yum! Diane offers a generous serving of braised venison to each guest.
Nancy opens a Tupperware to reveal beautiful Haleakala Creamery goat-cheese balls rolled in chives, pecans and cranberries. “These need a few finishing touches,” she says. She recruits Adelle and Lara to help insert a pretzel stick into each one and carefully tie long, thin chives into a bow around each pretzel — which is not as easy as it sounds! Diane and my husband, Chris Speere (who today is playing food stylist), decorate the 15-foot ipe-wood dining table. They artfully position brilliant red bougainvillea, sunset-colored Moloka‘i mangoes, ripe papayas and an assortment of bright vegetables from Kumu Farms around fresh-cut olive branches from the Maui Olive Company orchard to complete the warm, Upcountry look. “Let’s take the mixology photos,” I say. “They’re waiting out on the deck for you, Lara!” Lara’s been recruited to concoct the cocktails for the photos, largely because of her festive nail polish. Outside, Mieko Horikoshi shoots some still images of the cocktail ingredients as Michael sets up cameras to film some web-exclusive video content. “The camera will just be here running, so act normal, Lara,” he says as Lara steps into frame. “I don’t know if you really want me to do that!” jokes Lara as she opens a bottle of Hula O Maui sparkling wine from MauiWine. Mieko directs the action as Lara pours a thick eggnog mixture into a stout glass. “Okay, now add the Kula rum,” says Mieko. Click-click-click! They shoot both cocktail recipes in a variety of angles, some close-up, some full-frame. Once the mixology coverage is complete, each staffer goes onto the deck with her dish to talk about its ingredients and meaning. Mieko
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fires off several shots, then Michael records snippets of exposition to accompany the forthcoming web coverage. Back inside, Chris tosses fresh mixed greens together with rich, emerald-green Maui olive oil. He then plates a leg of braised venison, garnishing it with a bouquet of fresh herbs from Diane’s garden. “Our family friend Jeff Merle donated the venison,” Diane says. As adorable as the deer are on Maui, they are an invasive species that wreaks havoc on the island’s farms. This makes them the perfect protein source for our holiday table, simultaneously feeding the team and helping curb the deer’s damaging presence. Mieko takes some shots of the venison, then sets up a tall ladder alongside the dining table for a wide overhead angle. “Be careful!” says Rita, looking up at Mieko with concern. “Oh, I’m used to being up on ladders,” says Mieko, then demonstrates her balancing skills by leaning over the top of the ladder to shoot straight down on the table, which is now set end-to-end with all our dishes. Click-click-click! “Now, it’s time to do what we do best — eat!” I say. “First, I want to say thanks to all of you for a great holiday kitchen shoot,” says Diane. “We’ll be doing this again very soon!” We toast with crystal champagne classes filled with Hula O Maui sparkling pineapple wine, Vitalitea kombucha and azure butterfly pea flower water. Mieko moves around the room, capturing the scene, the smiles, the laughter — d ocumenting what life on Maui means to us. Today, it’s a chance to connect with our friends and colleagues, to appreciate, honor and love one another — not just during the holidays, but all year long.
High Spirits
Story by Becky Speere Photography by Mieko Horikoshi
photos by Hiroki...
MIXOLOGY
Maui Gold 75 Makes 8–12 Servings This refreshing take on a classic champagne cocktail, the French 75, is perfect any day of the year. We crafted ours using three local products: fresh Kumu Farms pineapples, Hula O Maui sparkling wine by MauiWine, and Fy organic gin by Hawaii Sea Spirits. Ingredients
5–6 pounds Kumu Farms pineapples 1 cup sugar 1 cup water 1½ cups Fy gin, chilled 2 bottles Hula O Maui sparkling wine, chilled Peel pineapples. Core and dice one into bize-size chunks and freeze. Juice flesh of remaining fruit. Reserve 1½ cups juice in a covered container and refrigerate until chilled. Save pulp.* Chop 2 cups of pineapple peels into approximately 1-inch pieces. Add to a large pot with sugar, water and 1 cup pineapple juice and bring to a boil. Simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until reduced to a syrup, about 5 to 7 minutes. Strain and discard skin. Refrigerate until chilled. Host Service Combine gin with ½ cup
pineapple syrup and reserved pineapple juice. Add 1 ounce to a champagne glass. Top with sparkling wine. Self-Service Add ½ cup pineapple
syrup, reserved pineapple juice and 1½ cups gin to a punch bowl and mix well. Add frozen pineapple and slowly pour in sparkling wine. Stir gently. Ladle into champagne glasses. *Use pineapple pulp to make pineapplepapaya jam: Measure pulp and chop up an equal amount of papaya flesh. Place pulp and papaya into a large pot and add 1 cup sugar or honey, and the juice and zest of one lemon. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-high. Cook until thick, stirring constantly, 15 to 20 minutes. Carefully ladle hot jam into sterilized Mason jars. Screw on lids and cool to room temperature. Store in refrigerator. Use as a tasty pancake topping! Left: Change things up by subbing Vitalitea Kombucha for sparkling wine! More holiday cheer on Page 72. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov-Dec 2021
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MIXOLOGY
Kula Cloud Coconut Rum Dream Makes 4–6 Servings Drift on the Kula Cloud to Shangri-La with this delicious eggnog recipe which uses nondairy coconut milk and pasture-raised eggs. Locally made Kula Rum by Hawaii Sea Spirits gives this holiday staple a solid dose of giddy-up! Sugar & Spice Blend
1 cup powdered sugar 1 teaspoon cardamom 1 teaspoon nutmeg 1 teaspoon cinnamon Eggnog
¼ cup Kula Toasted Coconut Rum ½ cup + 2 tablespoons sugar 6 eggs, separated 1 cup coconut whipping cream or heavy whipping cream, chilled ½ teaspoon cardamom 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg ½ teaspoon cinnamon 1 cup low-fat coconut milk, chilled 1 tablespoon rosewater, optional Garnishes
1 cup unsweetened shredded coconut, toasted 1 ounce white or dark Kula rum, or to taste Sift together Sugar & Spice Blend ingredients and put into a shaker. Set aside. Place a heatproof metal bowl over a pot of simmering water. Add rum, ½ cup sugar and egg yolks and whisk until very thick, about 3 minutes. Remove and refrigerate until chilled. Use an electric mixer to beat whipping cream until it forms soft peaks. In a separate bowl, add 2 tablespoons sugar, egg whites, cardamom, nutmeg and cinnamon. Beat until it forms soft peaks. Using a rubber spatula, gently combine egg-yolk and egg-white mixtures, and then fold into whipped cream. Stir in coconut milk and rosewater (if using). Ladle mixture into coupe glasses or espresso cups. Sprinkle each with 1 teaspoon toasted coconut and a generous shake of Sugar & Spice Blend. Top with dark or white Kula rum.
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DRINK · TALK STORY The foundation of LINEAGE was built around family get togethers, celebrating the
•
diversity of natural ingredients and a cooking style that embodies Maui cuisine. The impressive culinary duo of Chefs Emmanuel Eng and Nelson Simpliciano bring creativity and family traditions to the restaurant with innovative Asian-American cuisine.
DINE IN & TAKE OUT AVAILABLE 2021
Most Innovative Menu
Best Farm-to-Table FINALIST
SILVER
Travelers' Choice·
l� �---� Tripadvisor
FOR RESERVATIONS
The Shops at Wailea
lineagemaui.com •
3750
WAI LEA ALANUI
(808) 879-8800
DR,
#oP-2 • WAI LEA, HI
Complimentary Validation
96753 • f
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DINING HIGHLIGHT
Chef Pang received the Lifetime Achievement Award at the 2014 ‘Aipono Gala.
Executive chef Tylun Pang celebrates 25 years at the Fairmont Kea Lani Maui. Story by Becky Speere
The QuarterCentury Chef It’s no easy task to manage six dining venues, coordinate special events and oversee large banquets, but the Fairmont Kea Lani’s executive chef Tylun Pang makes it seem effortless. Since coming to the Fairmont 25 years ago, Pang has honed his management and organizational skills so that all things food and dining at the resort run like a well-oiled Hobart mixer. Despite all his accomplishments, Pang remains humble, and regularly shifts attention away from himself to highlight others. “My cooks helped create the menu at Kō, [Fairmont Kea Lani’s signature fine-dining restaurant], and there is a sense of pride in making the dishes that their grandparents, fathers and mothers passed down,” says Pang. “Food is very personal. More than taste, it reflects where we came from, our values. This feeling is the very essence of our restaurants.” Pang discovered his yuanfen (destiny) as
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a child in Honolulu. “My grandmother was head chef at a Chinese restaurant called Yong Sing, and my uncle owned a shop in Chinatown that sold pork, char siu and roast duck,” he says. “I have so many great memories of walking in the market with my dad and eating char siu sliced fresh off the hook. My father, Yun Young Pang, was a great cook, too, and I have a steamed fish dish on the menu at Kō that reminds me of him.” After pursuing his career in Asia, South America and across the US, Pang returned to the Islands in 1996 and immediately began working at the Fairmont. Pang is dedicated to supporting local commerce and uses food produced on Maui and in Hawai‘i at his restaurants and events, efforts that earned him the Maui County Farm Bureau’s Friend of Agriculture award in 2012. “When I buy local produce, that money goes to feed a family in Kula, or the fisherman
in Kīhei or a rancher in Hāna and his family,” says Pang. “It’s our responsibility to use the resources that we have here on the island, and to keep our local businesses viable for future generations.” Pang’s cookbook, What Maui Likes to Eat (Mutual Publishing, 2010), is a collection of 140 recipes, including many of his own, several from Kō and a number from other local chefs. Throughout, Pang underscores the importance of sharing food at the table, and in an incredibly generous gesture, Pang donated all proceeds from the book to the UH-Maui College Culinary Arts Program. “My family and I decided that it was important to support up-and-coming chefs [with] scholarships,” he says. Congratulations on 25 years at the Fairmont Kea Lani, chef Tylun Pang! You are a role model, a kumu (teacher) and an inspiration, and you help make Maui nō ka ‘oi. IMUA!
A Constellation, A Gathering, A Mixture All things Huihui
A voyage begins... | huihuirestaurant.com | 808-667-0124
Dining Guide B=Breakfast BR=Brunch L=Lunch H=Happy Hour D=Dinner N=Dinner past 9 p.m. R=Reservation recommended $=Average entrée under $15 $$=Under $25 $$$=Under $40 =‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2020 $$$$=$40+
Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call ahead or visit their social media sites for information.
WEST SIDE
ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$
Nāpili venue. Chef Joey Macadangdang knows good food. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $–$$
ALALOA LOUNGE The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200 Creative farm-to-table cocktails, mocktails and an exciting selection of savory dishes from the menu, such as huli huli chicken, sushi and stone-oven pizza. International. D, $–$$
DUKE’S BEACH HOUSE MAUI Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900 Imagine Old Hawai‘i while dining on crab-and-macadamia-nut wontons or prime rib at this open-air beach house. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$
AMIGO’S 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210 Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, flautas and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D, $
FEAST AT LELE 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353 This classic beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$
LAHAINA GRILL 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117 Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad, Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with jasmine rice, or the famous Kona coffee-roasted rack of lamb with a coffee-cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selection and cocktails, too! American/Pacific Rim. D, R, $$$$
AUNTIE’S KITCHEN The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3259 Saimin, burgers and fresh-fish plate lunches mingle with 2020 ‘Aiponowinning poke. Local Mixed Plate. B, L, D, $–$$ BANYAN TREE The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz Carlton Dr., 6657096 Start with an heirloom tomato salad with buffalo mozzarella. Then a Hawaiian cioppino full of treasures from the sea in a tomato-fennel broth, or lobster agnolotti. End with warm Valrhona chocolate cake. Great cocktails. Italian. Hawai‘i Regional. D, $$–$$$$ BREAKWALL SHAVE ICE COMPANY The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., #104, Lahaina, 661-4900 Grown-up shave ice? You bet! Cool off with one of the best snow cones on Maui and discover your favorite flavor. Treats. $ CANE & CANOE Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681 Try the avocado toast and mimosas for breakfast, and prime select steaks with horseradish créme fraiche for dinner. Lunch at the Hāna Hou Bar includes Wagyu bacon-cheddar burgers and vegetarian selections. Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D, $$$–$$$$ CHEESEBURGER IN PARADISE 811 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4855 Wake up to oceanfront views with a cuppa joe and a luscious breakfast. For lunch, try the poke, wings, onion rings or a hefty cheeseburger. For dinner: the Aloha Fish and Fries. International. B, L, D, $–$$ CHOICE HEALTH BAR 1087 Limahana Pl., #1A, Lahaina, 661-7711; Second West Maui location: Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali All juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are made with fresh ingredients. Daily specials. American. B, L, $ THE COFFEE STORE Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 669-4170 Stop in for coffee and a muffin and you may just end up staying for lunch — or longer. (They’re open until 6 p.m.) Great service, fresh-baked goods, yogurtgranola parfaits, chia pudding and to-go items. Coffee Shop. B, L, D, $ COOL CAT CAFÉ The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908 Burgers, chicken and more in a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $ DOWN THE HATCH The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900 Mermaid fries with cheese and lava sauce, towering shrimp cocktails, fresh island fish and lots of aloha. Great shave ice, too! (See Breakwall’s listing.) Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D, N, $$ DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Enjoy a traditional imu
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FLEETWOOD’S ON FRONT ST. 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425 (Yes, that Fleetwood!) Pacific oysters with tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome and a one-pound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. Bar opens at 2 p.m. American/British Pub Food. L, H, D, N, $$–$$$$ FOND Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Ste. 115, Nāpili, 8560225 Breakfast silog bowls with garlic fried rice, sammies for lunch, Wednesday night fried-chicken special and Sunday Chef’s Table. Eurasian. B, L, D, $–$$ FRIDA’S MEXICAN BEACH HOUSE 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287 Chalupas, fresh aguachile ‘ahi, short-rib tacos and great mixology are among the reasons this seaside restaurant won the Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Mexican Cuisine. Latin-inspired. L, H, D, $–$$ GAZEBO Napili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Nāpili, 669-5621 Have breakfast for lunch, or lunch for breakfast! Fluffy pancakes, omelets, plate lunches with Cajunspiced chicken or kālua pork, salads and seven burgers to choose from. Ocean views are free! International. B, BR, L, $ HONU SEAFOOD & PIZZA 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390 Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D, $$ HUIHUI Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 262-8450 Chef Tom Murumoto’s menu features local flavors in an oceanfront setting. For breakfast, try poi pancakes with coconut syrup; for lunch, a Moloka‘i venison burger and tropical refreshers; and for dinner, poke, lū‘au plates, seafood and pan-fried rib-eye steak. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, $-$$$$ HULA GRILL Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636 Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy poke tacos, mai tais, homemade ice cream sandwiches and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $$ JAPENGO Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Great steaks and authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood are among the reasons Japengo won ‘Aipono Gold for Restaurant of the Year in 2019 and for Best Pacific Rim Cuisine in 2020. Japanese. D, N, $$$ JOEY’S KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474 Second West Maui location: Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590 Start your day with macadamia nut pancakes or a kālua pork omelet at Whalers Village, and end with dinner at Joey’s
LEILANI’S ON THE BEACH Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495 Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors with guava chicken wings, ‘ahi poke with taro chips, and crab cakes with tomatillo aioli. Entrees include filet mignon with green onion gremolata or a Parmesancrusted fresh catch. Don’t forget the Hula Pie! Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, H, D, N, $-$$$$ LEODA’S KITCHEN & PIE SHOP 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600 Try the house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread with pineapple coleslaw and an ice-cold beer. The mac-nut chocolate cream pie and freshsqueezed lemonade will make you want to dance! American. B, L, D, $ MERRIMAN’S KAPALUA 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua, 669-6400 Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create the most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. BR (Sun), L, D, R, $$–$$$$ MISO PHAT SUSHI Kahana Manor, 4310 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #111, Kahana, 669-9010 See South Shore listing. MOKU ROOTS 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 214-5106 This vegan/vegetarian venue is worth a visit! Winner of the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best New Restaurant and the 2020 Silver for Tastiest Healthy Fare. Vegetarian/Vegan. B, L, D, $ MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763 See South Shore listing. OLD LĀHAINA LŪ‘AU 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0700 Eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$ PACIFIC’O 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341 Oceanfront dining with fresh produce from the restaurant’s own Upcountry farm. Poke, seafood and steak. Hawai‘i Regional. D (Tues-Sat), $$-$$$$ PAPA‘AINA Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636 Try the curated menu from Bravo’s Top Chef competitor Lee Anne Wong. Smoked salmon Benedict for breakfast, cheesy kālua pork nachos and a cold beer at happy hour. Dig into a plate of shrimp and Portuguese sausage linguine for dinner. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $–$$ PIZZA PARADISO MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929 Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D, $–$$ PRISON STREET PIZZA 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332 East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Italian/ Pizza. L, D, $
ROY’S 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999 Line up for a great Maui burger at lunchtime. For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, daikon and pickled ginger. Save room for the signature Melting Hot Chocolate Souffle! Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$$ ROYAL OCEAN TERRACE RESTAURANT Royal Lahaina Resort & Spa, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-3611 Breakfast offerings include loco moco and eggs Benedict, or go light with a delightful avocado toast topped with microgreens. Burgers and prime rib, too. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $–$$
Lahaina Fried Soup Pohole Salad HAPA RAMEN STAR UDON AHI AVO GARLIC NOODLES Singapore Noodles Steamed Pork Buns PAD THAI malasadas SAKE COCKTAILS
SALE PEPE 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667 Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci puree on grilled crostini and house-made strozzapreti pasta — just like chef Michele Di Bari’s mama makes in Italy. Good Italian wines and beer. Italian/Pizza. D, $$ SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286 Small and action-packed, D.K. Kodama’s classy sushi bar draws lines late into the night. Try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a sip of sake. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, R, $$$ THE SEA HOUSE RESTAURANT Napili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-1500 Start the day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp as the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesdays, stay for Grammy Award-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$ STAR NOODLE 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5400 Big-city style and local flavors unite. Enjoy a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea as you drink in the view of Lāna‘i across the channel. The ramen broth is extra smoky, the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D, $$
FRESH HOUSE MADE NOODLES & ASIAN SPECIALTIES SERVING LUNCH & DINNER
1285 FRONT STREET NEXT DOOR TO THE OLD LĀHAINĀ LŪ‘AU
RESERVATIONS & TAKE-OUT
808.667.5400
Client: Leoda’s Trim 4.64" x4.785” Color: FULL
TAVERNA 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426 Taverna is dining heaven. House-made pasta, agrodolce-style fish of the day and Italian desserts stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Great wine, cocktails and craft beer. Italian. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$ TEDDY’S BIGGER BURGERS 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111 The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $ THAI CHEF Old Lahaina Center, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814 This well-loved venue keeps diners coming back. Commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls and beef salad drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D, $ ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 790 Front St., Lahaina, 877-3700 Second West Maui location: Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali Homemade tropicalflavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Kid-friendly. Treats. $
AND OUR HOMEMADE SWEET & SAVORY PIES
SOUTH SHORE AKAMAI COFFEE COMPANY 1325 S. Kīhei Rd., Unit 100, Kīhei, 868-3251 Second South Shore location: 116 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 868-0003 Experience coffee and espresso done right at this 2020 ‘Aipono Gold Award-winner for Best Coffee Shop. Coffee Shop. $ BOTERO LOUNGE Grand Wailea Maui Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Named for the surrounding Fernando Botero sculptures, this lounge offers nightly entertainment. On Thirsty Thursdays, a threecocktail tasting is just $20. Lounge. L, D, H, N, $
OPEN DAILY FROM 7AM to 8PM
BREAKFAST • LUNCH • DINNER
leodaskitchenandpieshop leodasmaui leodasmaui
Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2021
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DUO Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Breakfast buffet or à la carte? Did someone mention chateaubriand? Four Seasons never disappoints. Pacific Rim. B, D, $–$$$ FOUR SEASONS LOBBY LOUNGE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Impeccable service, a locally sourced menu, swanky cocktails and performances by local songwriters. Pacific Rim. H, D, N, $$$$ ISLAND GOURMET MARKETS The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055 Sushi to go, deli sandwiches, plate lunches and more. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $
Welcome to
The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea Discover the flavors of the islands in our elegant alfresco setting with sweeping views of three Hawaiian Islands. Th he Re estaurant at Hotel Wa ailea showcases its artistry with fresh, seasonal ingredients sourced from farmers and fishers throughout the region. Our “culinary casual” fare reflects the best of the islands’ colors, scents, and tastes. Perched on the hillside above Maui's south coast, the restaurant offers panoramic ocean views from the open-air lanai and intimate dining under the stars in the garden. For creative cocktails and sunset pupus, join us in the all-new Birdcage Bar!
555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, HI 96753 www.hotelwailea.com/rhw 808.879.2224
KA‘ANA KITCHEN Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 So many choices! A Wagyu hangar steak on a green papaya salad, charred octopus with local goat cheese, Kona abalone risotto, and a modern take on chicken and waffles. Curated wine list and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D, $$$$ KŌ Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock” — three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock to sear them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, H, D, R, $$$ LINEAGE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8800 If steamed clams with housemade "XO" and lup cheong sausage, Maui beef with black garlic, and hulihuli chicken with pineapple kim chee get your juices flowing, head to Wailea — now! Eat. Drink. Talk story. Pacific Rim. D, $–$$ LUANA LOUNGE Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kālua pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce and lomilomi tomato, paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, H, D, $–$$ MATTEO’S OSTERIA Wailea Town Center, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 8798466 Matteo’s meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Co. beef and Italian sausage, or ‘ahi crusted with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, H, D, $$–$$$ MISO PHAT SUSHI Azeka Shopping Center Makua, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476 Sushi served on-site, to-go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! Japanese. L, H, D, $$ MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Wailea Gateway Center, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322 Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner, Big Island rib-eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage and banana cream pie. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, N, $$ NICK’S FISHMARKET Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-7224 Enjoy classic seafood dishes beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. H, D, R, $$$$ NUTCHAREE’S AUTHENTIC THAI FOOD Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840 Start with ‘ahi laab tartare salad or crispy fish and mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D, $–$$ THE PINT & CORK The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 727-2038 Mac ‘n’ cheese with black truffles, shrimp and grits with chorizo, poke bowls, and
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SEA-TO-TABLE CUISINE On Napili Bay
AWARD
WINNING
Hawaii Magazine’s Third Annual Reader’s Choice Awards: Named One of the Top Five ”Best Hotel/Resort Restaurants” and "Best for Breakfast" in the state of Hawaii
OCEANFRONT Rated “Excellent” by Zagat
Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner • Happy Hour
DINING
Maui No Ka Oi Magazine’s Annual Maui Restaurant 'Aipono Culinary Awards: Best Ocean Front Dining: Gold
and Rosé all Day
Celebrating Over 55 Years of Aloha at Napili Kai Beach Resort 5900 Lower Honoapiilani Rd • Napili • Maui • Hawaii 96761 • 808.669.1500
Hours and More Information at SeaHouseMaui.com
Dining Guide More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide burgers. During football season you can score breakfast, too! American. L, H, D, N, $–$$ PITA PARADISE Wailea Gateway Center, 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 879-7177 Start with classic spinach tiropitas with caramelized onions, feta, mozzarella and tzatziki wrapped in phyllo dough, then move on to kabobs, pasta and gyros. Finish with baklava ice cream cake. Mediterranean. L, H, D, $–$$$ THE RESTAURANT AT HOTEL WAILEA 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224 Produce from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients around. With a gorgeous outdoor setting, it’s a night made in heaven. European-inspired. H, D, N, $$–$$$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880 Steaks and homespun side dishes worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list. American. H, D, N, $$$$ SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR Kīhei Town Center, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004 See West Side listing. ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei See West Side listing.
CENTRAL
Chef of the Year, Kyle Kawakami won the 2020 Gold ‘Aipono for Best Food Truck. Street food with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L, $ SAM SATO’S 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 244-7124 This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L, $ A SAIGON CAFE 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560 Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot, Vietnamese burrito, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D, $ THAI MEE UP Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369 Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles. Curry, too! Thai. Food Truck. L, D, $ TIGHT TACOS 349 Hanakai St., Kahului, 707-1221 Get the threetaco plate lunch (braised beef, pork and shrimp) with street corn, rice and salsa. Scratch great Mexican street food off your foodie bucket list! Mexican. L, $ TIN ROOF MAUI 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753 Sheldon Simeon of Top Chef fame builds memorable kau kau bowls filled with savory offerings: furikake-crusted seared salmon, Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter and a killer spicy fried-chicken sandwich. Pacific Rim. L, $
MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-CUPS (2877) Pastries, muffins, salads, sandwiches, wraps, and bagels and lox made to order. Fresh-roasted coffee beans set this experience above the rest. “Happy Cappy Hour” 2-6 p.m. Coffee Shop. B, L, H, $
ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului Second Central Maui location: 50 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku See West Side listing.
MAUI FRESH STREATERY MauiFreshStreatery.com, 344-7929 The 2019 ‘Aipono
GRANDMA’S COFFEE HOUSE 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140 The eggs Benedict
UPCOUNTRY
and baked goods made from scratch are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onions. Coffee Shop. B, L, $–$$
MAUIWINE 14815 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-6058 Enjoy wine tastings and light fare in the open-air lānai. Immaculate grounds surrounding the wine tasting room are perfect for a picnic. Winery. $-$$. O‘O FARM 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula; Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 6674341 Take a tour to learn about gardening and coffee roasting. Enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven and fresh-roasted coffee. Lunch includes chicken and fish entrees, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L, R, $$$$
NORTH SHORE CHOICE HEALTH BAR 11 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia, 661-7711 See West Side. FLATBREAD COMPANY 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989 Big booths, a snazzy bar scene and organic flatbreads laden with maplefennel sausage and roasted veggies. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N, $$ MAMA’S FISH HOUSE 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488 Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring, beachside, windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine. Each detail evokes old-time island hospitality. In 2018, this Maui institution became a James Beard nominee for Best Restaurant. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, R, $$–$$$$ NYLOS 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354 Ever since its opening, this fine-dining restaurant has garnered rave reviews on the coconut wireless for its menu and casual ambiance. International. D, $$$
NEW COV ERE D OUT DOO R SEATING !
Live Music during Brunch DINNER: 5pm-10pm HAPPY HOUR: 2pm-5pm SUNDAY BRUNCH: 10am-1pm
808-667-CIAO (2426)
WWW.TAVERNAMAUI.COM 2000 Village Rd, Kapalua, Maui
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CANE & CANOE Enjoy classic favorites with a distinctively modern flair
THE HIDEAWAY AT KAPALUA BAY An ideal destination to stay awhile and return to often
THE CLIFF HOUSE Where the past and the present meet aloha
Serving breakfast and dinner, experience exceptional service at a breathtaking ocean-view restaurant. Dine and support local farmers and fishermen through food, connection and culinary appreciation. Breakfast from 7:00am to 11:00am Dinner from 5:30pm to 9:00pm
The perfectly curated menu pays homage to traditional comfort food while the intimate space invites diners to unwind and reconnect. Relax in a casual setting offering local fare and island-inspired cocktails. Bar from 4:00pm to 10:00pm Dinner from 5:00pm to 10:00pm
Nestled on the cliffs of Namalu Bay, this intimate venue is the perfect location for family celebrations and couple retreats. Seasonally, enjoy wine series and chef dinners. To exclusively reserve The Cliff House for your special event, please inquire 72-hours in advance.
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Shaka Sleuthing
Story by Tom Stevens | Photo by Ron Dahlquist
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It’s an odd little gesture — thumb and pinkie extended outward from the hand, the three middle fingers folded into a partial fist. It’s the “shaka sign,” and it says Hawai‘i as surely as any flower lei or coconut hat. The shaka has been a fixture of island life for generations, and it simply means, How are you? Or, as we might say, Howzit? The gesture is often accompanied by a brisk, lateral swivel of the wrist that can stop at one repetition or continue for several. (Think of an old-fashioned yard sprinkler, the rotary kind that goes, shick-shick-shick, sending jets of water arcing outward gracefully over the lawn.) Thousands of times every Hawaiian day, the shaka flashes across traffic, punctuates conversations, signals triumph or happiness, greets arriving guests and then sends them safely home. It’s a happy sign, a casual thumbs-up to the many pleasures of island life and friendship. But who flashed the first shaka and why? Where did it come from? Its origins remain as cloudy as the West Maui mountain at midday. Some say the first shaka-signer was a man who lost his middle three fingers in a fireworks explosion, and thus “waved” with only his thumb and pinkie. But this stretches credulity. Even if the guy did have only two fingers, why wouldn’t he wave with his other hand? And even if, for the sake of argument, he had blown off the middle three fingers of both hands, wouldn’t he have waved in the traditional manner — sideto-side as opposed to the distinctive forearm twist of a true shaka? It’s a colorful anecdote, but pretty far-fetched. Here’s the preferred story: Back in Hawai‘i’s Territorial days, a shift supervisor at an unknown sugar plantation had to make frequent checks on the steam pressure in the mill’s boiler room. The easiest way to determine if the boiler was working properly was to check certain “Y” valves atop the piping. As its name suggests, a Y valve resembles the letter Y in that it has a vertical stem topped by equal, opposing, outwardly angled digits. A properly functioning Y valve flicks a quarter turn on its stem forward and backward repeatedly. Now, the shift supervisor could have climbed down the ladder into the bowels of the boiler room himself to examine the Y valves in question. But he was management, or close enough to management to carry a clipboard. Then, as now, clipboard guys don’t climb down dangerous ladders into the bowels of anyplace. Rather, they stand at the top of a platform and yell down to some hapless worker below. But have you ever been inside a boiler room at full crank? Neither have we, but we’d wager that there’s no way Clipboard Guy — even if he had the lungs of a bull elephant — could have been heard over the clashing and gnashing of tons of cane-grinding machinery. Instead, Clipboard Guy employed a kind of remedial sign language, and simply folded his three middle fingers into his palm (assuming said fingers hadn’t been blown off by fireworks), with his thumb and pinkie extended, and rotated his forearm back and forth to mimic a properly working Y valve on its stem. Recognizing the interrogative gesture, the worker down below would inspect the valves in question, and then would raise his arm and return the rotating gesture to Clipboard Guy, as if to say, Everything’s cool! Presto, the shaka was born. So now you know the real story ... or one version, anyway. This story originally appeared in our Spring 2001 issue.
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