Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine March-April 2022 by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine

MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI MAGAZINE

The Sustainability Issue

MARCH-APRIL 2022

The Hawaiian Archipelago M AU I M AG A Z I N E . N E T

VOL 26 / NO. 2

VOL 26 NO. 2 US/CAN $4.95

EXPLORING OUR KŪPUNA ISLANDS

VOLUNTOURISM The latest trend in travel POLIPOLI FARMS Looking back to move ahead SUN’S OUT, BUNS OUT Maui’s best burgers REEF-SAFE SUNSCREEN What you need to know LIVING PONO An ecofriendly Ha‘ikū home

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Cover: Photographer and conservationist Zach Pezzillo captured this flock of noio kōhā (brown noddies) soaring over the lagoon at Hōlanikū (Kure Atoll).

ADVENTURE PAYING IT FORWARD Voluntourism is the latest trend in travel. Here’s how you can do your part to mālama (care for) Maui. By Sarah Ruppenthal

HAWAIIAN SOUL FINDING THEIR ROOTS This local farming couple is looking to the past to protect the future. By Rita Goldman

MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA THE HALEAKALĀ CONSERVANCY A new nonprofit is bridging the gap between community and the crater. By Lara McGlashan

ISLAND PORTRAIT OUR KŪPUNA ISLANDS The Hawaiian archipelago consists of more than just the five most familiar islands. Learn more about this remarkable marine preserve. By Teya Penniman

AT HOME LIVING PONO Take a look inside this ecofriendly Ha‘ikū home where nature meets design. By Lara McGlashan

A fuzzy Laysan albatross chick cozies up to a derelict fishing net on one of the islands in Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument. Island Portrait, p. 46

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

CONTRIBUTORS It takes a lot of talent to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

PUBLISHER’S NOTE By Diane Haynes Woodburn

TAG, WE’RE IT! A shoutout to our IG fans who get social.

Dining

TALK STORY Tales of Hawai‘i fresh off the coconut wireless. By Savy Janssen & Lara McGlashan

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Looking for something to do? Here’s what’s happening on Maui.

PAU HANA WHEN HOME IS NOT A HOUSE By Tom Stevens

FEATURE A TREE, A TRIO & A TREAT Experience seaside dining at its finest at Māla Ocean Tavern.

DINING HIGHLIGHTS SUN’S OUT, BUNS OUT After a thorough taste test, we’ve determined the best burgers on Maui.

Stories by Becky Speere

MIXOLOGY JUNGLE JUICE Feeling mischievous? Make yourself a Cheeky Monkey, recipe courtesy of Tommy Bahama restaurant.

DINING GUIDE Hungry? Check out this short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island.

Head to The Marlin Bar in Lahaina to try this Whisky Ginger Smash. Better yet, check out the new book The Marlin Bar, Cocktails With Tommy Bahama, and look up the Cheeky Monkey, dining editor Becky Speere’s favorite Marlin Bar beverage. Mixology, p.70

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TOMMY BAHAMA

Departments

MASTHEAD

There’s a saying known in the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too. Publisher Diane Haynes Woodburn Group Publisher Michael Haynes Creative Director John Giordani

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Rita Goldman, Savy Janssen, Lara McGlashan, Teya Penniman, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere, Tom Stevens

Editor-in-Chief Lara McGlashan CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

EDITORIAL

Consulting Editor Rita Goldman Dining Editor Becky Speere Website Manager Adelle Lennox Digital Media Contributor Tori Speere

Olena Horcajo Alec, Denisse Allaire, Bob Bangerter, John Burns, Rob Farrell Greg McFall, Zach Pezzillo, RM Shutterworks, Ryan Siphers, Heidi Speno, Forest & Kim Starr, Crisy Teil, Alex Wang, Sarah Witas CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR Guy Junker E-MAIL: Info@MauiMagazine.net

MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Sales Manager Brooke Tadena Sales Associate Benjamin Barreras Advertising Sales (808) 242-8331

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ADMINISTRATION

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90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; (808) 242-8331. ISSN 2473-5299 (print) | ISSN 2473-5469 (online) ©2022 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly subscriptions: U.S., $24; Canada, $44; Foreign, $64. Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net.

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Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi, an environmental leader whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

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CONTRIBUTORS

BR I N G H AWA I ‛ I HOM E .

Fine Art, Sculpture & Glasswork

Here are some of the folks who make our magazine nō ka ‘oi (the best).

Sarah Ruppenthal is an award-winning journalist and freelance writer. Her stories have appeared in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, The Honolulu Star-Advertiser and The Maui News, among others. When she’s not working on a story, Ruppenthal can be found relaxing at home on Maui’s north shore with her husband, Matt.

Since 2007, professional photographer Ryan Siphers (whom we are pleased to have worked with for nearly a decade!) has enjoyed working, playing and raising his family on Maui. His job enables him to explore amazing landscapes, meet interesting people and visit gorgeous homes. ryansiphersphotography.com

Adventure (p.30)

At Home (p.52)

Of Rita Goldman’s numerous writing awards, she’s proudest of the Hawai‘i Book Publishers Association’s 2004 Ka Palapala Po‘okela Award of Excellence for her pictorial history Every Grain of Rice: Portraits of Maui’s Japanese Community, written on behalf of the Nisei Veterans Memorial Center.

Teya Penniman’s passion for protecting wild places has taken her around the world as a reporter at international meetings on the environment. Penniman’s story about the Hawaiian archipelago arose from her commitment to marine conservation and her deep respect for Hawaiian culture.

Hawaiian Soul (p.34)

Island Portrait (p.46)

Ceramics, Furniture & Hawaiian Crafts

Unique Jewelry, Home Goods & More

Lahaina w Makawao w Pa'ia The Shops at Wailea www.mauihands.com

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Professional photographer and Maui native Zach Pezzillo has a deep appreciation for Hawai‘i’s native species and rich biodiversity. He became interested in conservation in 2014, and since then he has worked with Maui’s endangered forest birds and spent two winters living and working on Hōlanikū (Kure Atoll) in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands. Currently, Pezzillo works for Maui’s plant extinction prevention program, an organization that focuses on saving endangered native species, some of which have fewer than 50 individuals left in existence. Island Portrait (p.46)

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Love, Laugh & Live Pono

A hui hou,

Diane Haynes Woodburn, Publisher

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MIEKO HORIKOSHI

After a flurry of last-minute crises and a mishmash of disorganized packing, I am finally off, boarding a plane to join our friends in Steamboat Springs, Colorado, for our annual sojourn to the snow. We have been taking this trip together for decades. We ski, take walks, do yoga, cook meals, drink too much wine, and laugh a lot. Over the years, the laughing has become more important than than the skiing (and a lot easier), and our shared history, our memories, are the foundation upon which we move forward together and mark time. Many years ago, Native Hawaiian historian Senator Kalani English told me that in order to move forward, you must understand the past. “Time is meaningless without orientation,” he explained. “Finding the ancient connections within ourselves is the key to finding the future.” This sentiment rings particularly true in the story “Our Kūpuna Islands,” by Teya Penniman. The Hawaiian archipelago is more than the five islands we know best; it is actually a collection of more than 130 islands, atolls and shoals stretching more than 1,600 miles across the Pacific. Hawaiians call these Na Mokupuni Na Kūpuna, “The Islands of the Ancestors.” Those found northernmost are more than 7 million years old, blips in the sea that grow increasingly larger and higher as you travel southeast, marking the millennia until you reach the newly forming seamount, Kama‘ehuakanaloa, just beyond Hawai‘i Island. What is old is once again new as this nascent volcano reaches for the surface, perpetuating the basaltic cycle of rise and fall. One day it, too, will be home to new species of plants and animals, as have all the kūpuna (ancestor) islands that came before. While sustainability doesn’t have to go back millennia, practices of the past often inspire the present. In “Finding Their Roots,” by Rita Goldman, we are reintroduced to our former managing editor, Lehia Apana. She and husband Brad Bayless left the corporate world to become farmers, and found their calling in agroforestry. Hawai‘i once sustained a population similar to that of today and was completely self-sufficient. Today, however, we import more than 85 percent of our food, and Lehia and Brad are committed to applying the wisdom of their Hawaiian ancestors to their farming practices in the hopes that they may support Maui’s food security in the future. Did you know that sustainability also has a flavor? In “A Tree, a Trio & a Treat,” dining editor Becky Speere writes about her experience at Māla Ocean Tavern, a venue which has recently garnered accolades due in large part to executive chef Alvin Savella. Born and raised on Maui, chef Savella honors his past by serving traditional dishes made with locally sourced produce, fish and beef. New tongues taste this history, and in doing so perpetuate its significance. If you’re the kind of reader who wants to dig in with both hands, don’t miss “Pay it Forward,” our story on the latest trend in travel, voluntourism. Mindful visitors can gift their time in a meaningful way, giving back to the island they love by volunteering to, say, clean up a local beach, plant native species or simply take a shelter dog out for a day of fun. We have a long way to go before we are once again self-sufficient, but every day we make progress, whether it’s preserving our culture, conserving our wildlife or implementing ancient farming techniques. We need each other to stay connected, to laugh and to be healthy, and we need to honor the wisdom of our past in order to sustain our future. My plane lands and I make the trek to our condo. Even before I open the door, I hear laughter and know my friends have already gathered. Suddenly, I feel renewed, and as I swing open the door, am received with shouts of joy and open arms. There is indeed more than one kind of sustainability.

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TAG, WE’RE IT

Our readers are as obsessed with Maui as we are. We see you out there, exploring the island and snapping those Insta-worthy shots. Follow us on Instagram @MauiMag, tag #LoveMauiMag and we’ll share some of our favorite posts in each issue.

@georgewbryan “Waiting for the perfect wave!”

@lillieonthego “Went in for the flower, stayed for the lizard.”

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@mrod_maui “Early morning in Hawai‘i Nei.”

@bencaswellphotography “Spread your fins and fly.”

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TALK STORY

Fresh off the coconut wireless

Save Your Skin – and Maui’s Sea Life

Story by Savy Janssen

to these chemicals experience reproductive issues, mutations, brain damage and other life-threatening problems. Coral polyps are animals, too, and nanoparticles that accumulate on their surfaces damage their DNA and exoskeleton, and inhibit their growth. The particles also react with sunlight, creating hydrogen peroxide, which then bleaches the coral and causes it to reject its symbiotic phytoplankton, the microscopic algae that live on the coral’s tissues and serve as a vital source of nutrition. Bleached coral is vulnerable to infection, and has a lower chance of recovery or survival. Coral reefs protect our coastline, breaking the impact of waves and helping prevent erosion while also allowing the intertidal animals and plants to survive. Fortunately, Hawai‘i is taking steps to protect these

important ecosystems: In 2018, the state banned sunscreen containing oxybenzone and octinoxate, and beginning on October 1, 2022, a new ordinance will ban the sale, distribution and use of non-mineral sunscreens in Maui County waters. Putting a ban in place will call attention to this sensitive issue, but we still have to do our part. First, beware of false claims: The terms “reef-safe” and “reef-friendly” are not regulated, so read the list of ingredients carefully before purchasing a product. Second, avoid products containing dangerous chemicals, and purchase those with ingredients such as non-nano zinc oxide, non-nano titanium oxide and beeswax. Local brands like Kokua and Raw Love Sunscreen are great options, as are Raw Elements, Olita, 365 Everyday Value and Hawaiian Sol.

GRAPHIC COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL OCEANIC AND ATMOSPHERIC ADMINISTRATION

Clear blue water, white-sand beaches, delicate corals and a rainbow of fish — Maui’s waters offer a wealth of natural treasures. The ocean is free for all to enjoy, but it pays a high price when we humans disrupt its fragile ecosystem. The National Park Service estimates that 6,000 tons of sunscreen enter coral-reef systems around the world each year, and common ingredients such as octinoxate, octocrylene and oxybenzone wreak havoc on marine life. During manufacturing, these chemicals are broken into nanoparticles that make the sunscreen easier to apply without coating the skin with a layer of white grease. But these nanoparticles also do the most damage. According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, fish, sea urchins, dolphins and other animals exposed

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TALK STORY

Integrative Sustainability For hundreds of years, despite its remote location on the planet, Hawai‘i was self-sustaining. “Everyone had a common understanding of the goal and knew their role, and that made for a successful and sustainable community,” says Jonathan Stenger, analyst for Kamehameha Schools. But in this day and age, it’s not that simple, and solving one problem often creates others. Take traffic, for example: in order to alleviate congestion, one solution is to widen the roads. But this can lead to unintended consequences, such as destroying more of Maui’s natural habitat and generating runoff into streams and oceans. Easier access also can mean more visitors — and even more traffic. While there have been many initiatives launched on Maui, progress is often slow. According to the Hulihia Center for Sustainable Systems, instead of treating the symptoms of a problem, it’s imperative to determine its root cause. Hulihia, which means “complete change” in Hawaiian, was launched by the University of Hawai‘i Maui College in partnership with Kamehameha Schools. The Center uses academic

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UNIVERSITY OF HAWAI‘I MAUI COLLEGE

Story by Lara McGlashan

Opposite, from top: ‘Ulu (breadfruit), one of the canoe crops grown by ancient Hawaiians to promote food security, is experiencing a resurgence in popularity. Freighters arriving in Kahului Harbor import most of Maui’s food, the consumption yin to the sustainable yang of the University of Hawai‘i Maui College’s banks of solar panels that bring the campus to near-net-zero status. Traffic is a hot-button issue for many Mauians, but solving it isn’t as simple as widening the roads. Hulihia examines issues such as these from multiple angles to determine the root cause rather than treating the symptoms.

research, community insights and indigenous knowledge to better understand the issues and how they interconnect in order to divine a solution. To gain a holistic and multifaceted perspective, Hulihia collects information and opinions from community members, sustainability experts and stakeholders. “We reach out to as many specific groups and individuals as we can,” says Stenger. “People in remote communities, underserved populations, religious organizations — whoever wants to share and weigh in.” Hulihia also integrates ‘ike kūpuna (ancestral knowledge) to help guide decisions. “Understanding the concepts and values of Native Hawaiians gives [stakeholders] the scenarios in which they can grow and improve in order to achieve real sustainability,” says Stenger. Recently, Hulihia looked to cultural leaders to help analyze the Maui health care system. “Through our research, we discovered that Native Hawaiians tend to view hospitals with distrust,” says Stenger. “Hospitals were the holding place for people with leprosy before they were shipped to the colony on Moloka‘i. Native Hawaiians don’t think, If I go to the hospital I will get better, they think, If I go to the hospital, I am not coming home. This historical relationship gives us insight into why this demographic is the last to go to the hospital when they are sick.” Once all sides have weighed in, the data is entered into a modeling software that delivers a number of sustainable outcomes. From there, a decision is made about what solution would work best. “As we work on different issues, we will surely find convergence points connecting them all,” says Stenger. “Knowing how everything intersects and how the system operates will lead to a more balanced relationship with our ‘āina (land).” For more information visit hulihiamaui.com or maui.hawaii.edu/hulihia. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

Left: Volunteers with the Hawai‘i Wildlife Fund ensure baby honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) make it to the ocean. Bottom: What’s cuter that a bucket of honu keiki?

preparation for their annual family trip to Maui in November, 2021, Chrisy and Arnaud Teil planned out their usual activities: snorkeling in Mākena, shopping in Pā‘ia Town and visiting their favorite Kula farm stand for a bouquet of fresh flowers. This year, however, they added a new excursion — a volunteer opportunity through the nonprofit organization Friends of Haleakalā National Park. Bright and early one morning, the Teils and their two children headed to the crater’s summit to help plant hundreds of silversword seedlings. For son Luc (11), a budding botanist, handling this rare and endangered plant was the highlight of his vacation. The Teils are part of a growing trend called voluntourism, where mindful travelers make meaningful and lasting contributions to a host community, doing their part to leave it better than when they arrived. This movement came to the forefront in 2020 with Mālama Hawai‘i, an initiative launched by the Hawai‘i Visitors and Convention Bureau in partnership with the Hawai‘i Tourism Authority, that encourages visitors to mālama (care for) the islands. Hotels and resorts responded quickly, offering Mālama Hawai‘i packages and special discounts to visitors who give back. One of these resorts was the Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui,

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TOP FROM LEFT: CRISY TEIL (2), FAIRMONT KEA LANI, MAUI / BOTTOM (2): DENISSE ALLAIRE

ADVENTURE

Opposite, from left: The Teil family volunteered to plant endangered ‘āhinahina (silverswords) while on vacation. Luc Teil gets down and dirty with his silversword keiki (youngster). The Fairmont Kea Lani provides cleanup kits as part of its Mālama Hawai‘i program. This page, from left: Words to vacation by. Sarah Witas and Adam Bourette with their adopted dog DJ. Take a dog out for the day with the Maui Humane Society’s Beach Buddies program.

FROM LEFT: FAIRMONT KEA LANI, MAUI / SARAH WITAS / MAUI HUMANE SOCIETY

Mālama Maui for a memorable vacation. Story by Sarah Ruppenthal which offers a fifth night free to guests who take part in a selfguided beach cleanup: you choose the day, time and location of your cleanup and the resort provides a kit filled with trash bags, gloves and a datasheet to record what you find for a marine-debris database. Conservation and environmental groups also stepped up, offering more volunteer-on-vacation programs to help tourists mālama Maui, such as beach cleanups, land restoration, community outreach and the like. For example, regular Maui visitor Denisse Allaire monitors sea-turtle nests for the Hawai‘i Wildlife Fund, camping on the beach near the nesting sites and watching over the hatchlings to ensure they reach the ocean safely. “It’s a spectacular experience,” says Allaire. “I do it as often as I can. You get more out of volunteering than you could ever imagine.” Illinois residents Sarah Witas and Adam Bourette echo her sentiment. In 2021, the couple signed up for the Maui Humane Society’s Beach Buddies program, which allows visitors to take an adoptable dog out of the shelter for a day. Witas and Bourette were paired with DJ, a mixed-breed puppy, whom they took to the beach and the park before grabbing some ice cream (for the humans) and returning to the shelter.

“The program gives the dog an opportunity to show its true colors and potentially meet someone who can adopt them,” Witas explains. In DJ’s case, that “someone” was Witas and Bourette, who fell in love with the pup and brought him home to Illinois. Setting aside valuable vacation time to volunteer is commendable, but don’t worry if you can’t make it happen each and every time you come to Maui. All visitors can do their part to make a difference on a daily basis: conserve water, recycle, stay away from sea turtles and monk seals, and wear reef-safe sunscreen. “Any contribution, no matter how small, can make a big impact,” says Allaire. “Beach Buddies was my all-time favorite ‘excursion’ on Maui,” says Witas. “But never in a million years would I have thought it would [give me] my best souvenir.” FOR MORE INFORMATION, SEE BELOW AND NEXT SPREAD. (->) Friends of Haleakalā National Park FHNP.org/service.html | 808.572.1584 (->) Mālama Hawai‘i gohwaii.com/malama

(->) Hawai‘i Wildlife Fund wildhawaii.org/get-involved/volunteer

(->) The Maui Humane Society Beach Buddies Program mauihumanesociety.org/beach-buddies | 808.877.3680, ext. 224 Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

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Looking to give back while visiting Maui? Consider these options. 1. Hawaiian Islands Land Trust Volunteer Days Help preserve cultural sites and restore native habitat in the Waihe‘e Coastal Dunes and Wetland Refuge on Fridays and the third Saturday of each month. Also look for volunteer opportunities in the remote Nu‘u Refuge four times per year. HILT.org/volunteer | 808.744.2462 | IG/FB @hilandtrust 2. Kanahā Pond Wildlife Sanctuary Help clear invasive species and replant native flora in this 143-acre sanctuary that is frequented by more than 80 types of migratory birds, including the rare and endangered Hawaiian coot and Hawaiian stilt. hear.org/volunteer/maui/kanaha.htm | 808.572.6338 3. Kipuka Olowalu Learn about Native Hawaiian history, values and practices by volunteering in the Olowalu Valley, one of Maui’s largest cultural sites. Projects include restoring lo‘i kalo (taro patches), removing invasive species and planting native vegetation. kipukaolowalu .com/volunteering-programs | IG @kipukaolowalu

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4. Mālama Maui Nui Community Cleanup You choose the spot — a roadside, park, trail, or beach — and Mālama Maui Nui provides the supplies, including bags, pickers, reusable gloves, buckets and safety vests. malamamauinui. org/cleanups | 808.877.2524 | IG @ malama_maui_nui | FB @malamamauinui 5. Trilogy Excursions Blue ‘Aina Reef Cleanup Do your part to keep the sea trash-free. Book a Blue ‘Aina sailing trip and go beneath the surface to remove debris from our island’s reefs. sailtrilogy.com | 808.874.5649 | IG @sailtrilogy | FB @sail.trilogy 6. Lahaina Restoration Foundation Volunteerism Project Preserve the past and get a hands-on history lesson while helping process artifacts and documents from Lahaina’s missionary, whaling and sugar eras. lahainarestoration.org/ volunteer-malama | 808.661.3262 | IG/FB @lahainarestoration

7. Maui Cultural Lands Help restore the culturally rich Honokōwai Valley by removing invasives and planting native species — all while learning about Hawai‘i’s culture and archaeological resources. mauiculturallands.org | 808.276.5593 | IG/FB @mauiculturallands 8. Pacific Whale Foundation Volunteers on Vacation Program Volunteer for a project such as tackling marine debris, revegetating stream banks in West Maui, or helping preserve the ecosystem of Haleakalā National Park. Visit their website for a full list. pacificwhale. org/blog/volunteers-on-vacation | 808.249.8811, ext. 1 | IG/FB @pacificwhalefoundation 9. The Sewing Hui Join a team of volunteer seamstresses to work on a variety of projects for the Maui community. No previous experience required. 3660 Baldwin Ave., # 201, Makawao | thesewinghui.com | 808.757.5915 | IG/FB @thesewinghui

1: HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LAND TRUST | 2: FOREST & KIM STARR | 3: KIPUKA OLOWALU | 4: MĀLAMA MAUI NUI | 5: TRILOGY EXCURSIONS

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

HAWAIIAN SOUL

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Lehia Apana and Brad Bayless harvest kalo (taro) on their Waiehu farm. The Maui-born couple cultivates native and Polynesian plants using both indigenous and modern practices.

How two homegrown farmers are working to save the future by looking to the past. Story by Rita Goldman Photography by Ryan Siphers

“My whole life I was looking for ways to be Hawaiian,” says Lehia Apana. This, from a young woman who grew up on Maui and has Hawaiian genes. “I studied the language, paddled outrigger canoes, joined a hālau hula [hula school] — I enjoyed those activities, but none of them gave me the deep connection I was searching for,” she says. “I felt I was failing as a Hawaiian. Then I found farming, and everything changed.” I’ve known Apana since 2013, the year she joined Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi as managing editor. She is one of the best writers I’ve had the pleasure to work with, and also is the last person I’d have expected to give up her dual passions of travel and journalism to become a farmer — let alone one who follows millennia-old practices. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

When Apana and Bayless arrived at the property in 2017, it was covered in invasive albizia trees and eight-foot-tall guinea grass. Using cover crops such as sunn hemp — the yellow flowers in foreground — and regenerative planting methods, they’re working to transform the land into a food-producing agroforest.

“When I was 18, I couldn’t wait to get away from Maui,” she says. “I was so disconnected from the ‘āina [land]. Now you couldn’t pull me away.” It’s mid-August, 2021, when I visit her at Polipoli Farms. As we walk amid stands of niu (coconut) palms and ‘ulu (breadfruit) trees, Apana confesses that, prior to purchasing the land, she’d never grown anything more than a vegetable garden. Nor had her husband, Brad Bayless, a former construction-project manager. So why the big, unlikely leap? Actually, it began really simply,” she says. “About a decade ago, we started a garden in the backyard. I had no intention of giving up writing, but growing became a bigger and bigger part of our lives. Eventually, Brad and I decided to farm [full-time].” By chance, they found a property in Waiehu, northwest of Wailuku, that came with a house, a cottage ... and an imposing jungle. “Everything had been taken over by invasives,” she says. “There was even a tree growing out from under the house!” The couple spent roughly two years clearing the land, a process that would have taken longer, if not for Apana’s father. “My dad loves any reason to chainsaw something!” she says, laughing. “What we found underneath shocked us: lo‘i kalo.” These stepped terraces where Hawaiians used to grow kalo (taro) are part of Nā Wai ‘Ehā, “The Four Great Waters” — Waihe‘e River, Waiehu Stream, Wailuku River and Waikapū Stream — that spilled from the windward slopes of Mauna Kahalawai, West Maui’s mountain. At one

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time, these waters irrigated more than 3,000 acres, that was the most productive contiguous kalo-producing region in Hawai‘i for centuries. Apana gestures toward a patch of māmaki, an endemic nettle from which Hawaiians brew a medicinal tea, and talks about the farm’s other plantings — kalo, of course, mai‘a (banana), kō (sugar cane) — all of them indigenous or “canoe crops.” “As my ancestors traveled across the Pacific in their sailing canoes, they carried with them the plants they needed for survival,” she says. “Now, it makes sense to grow them for our own survival.” How the food is grown matters, too. Apana and Bayless practice agroforestry, a method that mimics nature by combining layers of plants such as ground cover, shrubs, trees and vines. “Everything in the ecosystem supports everything else,” she says. “There’s also an underground network of fungi that helps plants connect with one another. They’re the internet of the plant world.” Scientists believe this subterranean communication allows plants to help each other, sharing water and other nutrients. Agroforestry also offers a reconnection with history. “It’s one of the earliest forms of agriculture in the Pacific, dating back some 3,500 years,” says Apana. “That’s thousands of years of ‘ike kūpuna [ancestral knowledge] passed down through the generations. Before Western contact, Hawai‘i was the most isolated island chain on Earth, yet it sustained a population roughly the same size as today’s. In modern Hawai‘i, we import 85 to 90 percent of our food; my ancestors had a resilient food system. We can’t say that today.”

HAWAIIAN SOUL

Bayless and Apana plant a young māmaki which they will use to create an herbal-tea blend. As part of lā‘au lapa‘au (traditional Hawaiian plant medicine), māmaki is used to support overall well-being. It’s endemic to Hawai‘i, growing naturally only in these islands.

Yet, indigenous crops weren’t in the couple’s original plan. “As brand-new farmers, we were told that growing traditional plants like kalo isn’t a sustainable business model,” she says. “But seeing the lo‘i, this reminder of the people and practices that came before us, we knew we had to figure out a way to make it work.” To help guide their vision, Apana and Bayless joined the Farm Apprentice Mentoring program and the Hawai‘i Farmers Union United. They consulted with other growers and interned on Hōkūao Pellegrino’s Noho‘ana Farm in Waikapū to learn about traditional agriculture. Pellegrino turned out to be the consummate advisor, an authority on native agriculture. He also gave them the name for their venture: Polipoli Farms. “Not that Polipoli,” Apana says, laughing, referring to the state park 6,200 feet up the slopes of Haleakalā. “Polipoli is the original name of our ‘ili [land section]. When we shared our concern that it would confuse people, Hōkūao said, I totally understand. But it’s also a teaching tool.” So is the indigenous wisdom the Polynesians developed over millennia. Apana points to their keen understanding of astronomy and

planting according to lunar cycles, their engineering intelligence in developing lo‘i kalo systems as a sustainable way to manage water, and their commitment to serving the land. “With farming, I found that missing link I was always seeking — connection to the ‘āina, the greatest teacher, with my hands and with my heart,” she says. “My mission is to emulate the mahi‘ai [traditional Hawaiian farmers] who came before me. Mahi‘ai did more than just cultivate food. They were masters of observation, forming a deep relationship with the land — from the soil and plants to the weather patterns and moon cycles. This intimate connection not only affected the way they grew food, but also how they made sense of the world around them. “When I left writing to become a farmer, I had a sense of mourning,” she continues. “Writing was all I ever wanted to do. I went to school for it. I worked as a writer for 15 years. Then I realized that what I loved was the storytelling. Storytelling is what we do at the farm.” The couple plans to share those stories through farm tours, teaching visitors, residents and students about how Hawaiians farmed sustainably and regeneratively. They are already selling farm-grown

“It’s not about discovering something new — it‘s about rediscovering what has already worked.”

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

HAWAIIAN SOUL

products like banana chips and herbal teas, and as much as possible, use traditional methods to raise their crops. “Many people are looking for new ways to deal with climate change and extreme weather, and it can feel daunting,” she continues. “For me, it’s not about discovering something new — it’s about rediscovering what has already worked.” In early December, 2021, the islands were hit by a storm whose ferocity made international news. The Associated Press reported 53 people rescued from flash flooding. A National Weather Service meteorologist told The New York Times that some parts of O‘ahu had waist-deep water. The morning after, Apana and Bayless awoke to a devastating scene: snapped mango trees, flattened māmaki, banana plants bent in half, and a 35-foottall loquat tree that had nosedived just outside their bedroom. When I call Apana to make sure she’s all right, I’m struck by the resilience and optimism in her voice. “It was hard,” she admits. “Walking the land was like identifying bodies. But oh my gosh, the outpouring of community support! Various organizations combined forces to collect relief donations and offer assistance, and everyone helped in whatever way they could. We had people calling and texting us all day, asking, How can we help?” Kālisi Mausio was among those who extended a hand. The Hawai‘i Island farmer and fellow agroforestry advocate created Project Kanu, a program that encourages people to sponsor an ‘ulu tree that will eventually be planted on local farms. Polipoli Farms is one of the

Above: Polipoli Farms sits within the Nā Wai ‘Ehā (“The Four Great Waters”) region, known for its abundance of fresh water. Here, a stream running through the property irrigates the farm’s lo‘i kalo (taro patch) in the upper left corner. Opposite: Polipoli Farms grows several “canoe crops,” those that ancient Polynesians brought to the islands aboard their sailing canoes, such as ‘ulu (breadfruit, top left), mai‘a (bananas, middle right) and kō (sugarcane, bottom left). Top right: The farm’s St. Croix sheep are natural lawn-mowers, providing an ecofriendly way to control invasive grasses. Middle left, bottom right: Hawaiian Herbal Tea and dried banana chips are two of Polipoli Farms’ products.

Agroforestry mimics nature. “Everything in the ecosystem supports everything else.”

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“foster farms” that will nurture the ‘ulu seedlings before they go to live on their forever farms. Within hours of the storm’s passing, Mausio had posted a kōkua (help) page on her website for Polipoli Farms and others, and collected monetary and seedling donations to help farmers rebuild. “I see our relationship much like the agroforests we both love so much,” Apana reflects. “Just as the plants in an agroforest work together for shared resilience, so do we. This kind of cooperation is crucial for everyone’s survival.” Four days later, the worst of the damage had been cleared. “Farmers can be a fiercely independent bunch,” she says. “It’s easy to forget that you’re part of a community. But my ancestors didn’t survive by doing it alone. They relied on the power and cooperation of many. The recent storm was an epic reminder.”

For updates, videos, recipes and more, visit polipolifarms.com or IG/FB @polipolifarms.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA

T H E H A L E A K A L Ā

OLENA HORCAJO ALEC

Bridging the gap between community and the crater.

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C O N S E R VA N C Y

ALEX WANG

Story by Lara McGlashan

Opposite: ‘Āhinahina (Haleakalā silversword) are found only on Maui, and can live to be 90 years old. This page: The kiwikiu (Maui parrotbill) is the rarest native songbird on Maui. Their total population is estimated to be between 150 and 200 individuals.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA

RYAN SIPHERS

The funds raised by the Haleakalā Conservancy help protect more than 200 endangered and threatened species, including nēnē (Hawaiian geese), ‘āhinahina, kiwikiu, ‘ākohekohe (crested honeycreepers) and ‘i‘iwi (scarlet honeycreepers).

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Above: The Conservancy funded 16 song meters designed by Chris Warren, the forest-bird biologist for Haleakalā National Park. The birdsong recorded by the meters will give a more accurate count of the critically endangered kiwikiu. Right: Wildlife biologist Joy Tamayose dismantles the old, ineffective nēnē pen with the help of the Conservancy’s Camryn Riddell.

LEFT: CHRIS WARREN / RIGHT: OLENA HORCAJO ALEC

e see it every day — when we’re driving to work, going grocery shopping or having a morning paddle — the stout, gentle slope of our dormant volcano rising more than 10,000 feet into the sky. It’s easy to take it for granted, regard it simply as part of the landscape, but Haleakalā is more than a geographical feature or a tourist destination. It is an integral component of our community, something to be respected and revered. “Haleakalā is a critical ecosystem unto itself and plays an important part in the Hawaiian culture,” says J. Scott Meidell, president of Haleakalā Ranch Company and former trustee and president of the Historic Hawai‘i Foundation. “It is a critical part of our wellbeing as residents to be able to go to a place like Haleakalā and experience the wonders it contains.” In 2019, Meidell and other community leaders formed the Haleakalā Conservancy, a nonprofit philanthropic partner that functions to fill the gap between what the government is able to provide within its budget and what the park actually needs to protect its resources and host the public. “The National Park system has been around for a long time, and the larger, more visited parks have philanthropic partners that help support projects that might otherwise go unfunded,” explains Olena Horcajo Alec, Maui native and executive director for the Conservancy. “So, while Haleakalā does receive monies from the government and has its own entrance fees, it simply is not enough. That’s where we come in, to provide additional critical funding for the park.” On a granular level, the Conservancy raises money for programs created by park staff. “They give us a list of projects they recommend and we choose those we feel we can take on and make a difference,” says board member Jamie Woodburn. Some of the initiatives they have already funded are refurbishing the nēnē (Hawaiian goose) pen and producing a video about Maui’s

endemic birds. The Conservancy and the park also worked with bird biologist Chris Warren to design 16 song meters, autonomous recording units which will be distributed across the leeward slopes of the volcano to collect birdsong over a period of several months. These recordings will help provide a more accurate count of the endangered kiwikiu (Maui parrotbill), whose total population at last count numbered between 150 and 200 individuals. “Hawai‘i is the extinction capital of the world,” says Meidell, who also serves as the president of the board of directors for the Conservancy. “It occupies one-tenth of 1 percent of the land mass of the U.S., but has the vast majority of the country’s critically endangered plants and animals. These statistics keep getting worse, year by year. Our park staff are designing creative ways to stop these trends, and we want to be there to help.” Recently, the Conservancy raised funds to support two yearlong, paid internships. “These interns will be considered full-time park staff,” says Alec. “It is a great opportunity for local youth to be plugged into the conservation sector.” Which brings us to the overarching goal of the Conservancy: bridging the gap between the park and the Maui community. “Natalie Gates, the superintendent of Haleakalā National Park, pulled me aside during a conservation presentation and remarked that it would be great to have a philanthropic partner that connects the people with the park,” says Meidell. “There are two entities with needs

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA

The Haleakalā Conservancy is Maui’s second entity of its kind, the first being Friends of Haleakalā. While the interests of FOH lie specifically with volunteerism, the Conservancy focuses on raising support and awareness.

Above: Haleakalā National Park hosts more than a million visitors every year. Left: ‘Āhinahina seedlings thrive in the plant shade house, a program funded by the Conservancy. Bottom left: The Haleakalā Conservancy. Back row, from left: Olena Horcajo Alec, Colleen Medeiros, Erik McLellan, Scott Meidell, Dale Bonar. Front row, from left: Donna Howard, Camryn Riddell, Jamie Woodburn, Jac Kean, Wendy Rice Peterson. Below: Hosmer’s Grove is a great spot for birdwatching.

BOTTOM LEFT: RYAN SIPHERS / ALL OTHERS: OLENA HORCAJO ALEC

Opposite: The bright red feathers and curved bill of the ‘i‘iwi are its most notable traits.

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here: an incredible national park that is facing extinction issues and invasive species, and the community and its need to experience the astonishment, solitude and inspiration the park provides.” Fueled by their passion for the ‘āina (land), the flora and fauna that exist on the crater, and the cultural and environmental integrity of Haleakalā, the Conservancy strives to provide the facilities, experiences and services that will help accomplish that goal. “When I talk to people, especially young people, who grew up in the shadow of this mountain, I discover that many haven’t ever been up there, never experienced the grandeur and awe that is Haleakalā,” says Meidell. “It’s a destination for more than 1 million visitors every year, but it also should be a must-visit destination for residents to discover the wonders of our own home. It is an integral component of our community and culture that confers a certain amount of health and happiness just by being there.” “There is something therapeutic in protecting natural spaces that resonates with us on a primal level,” adds Woodburn. “There’s a deep satisfaction in preserving this resource, and giving kids the opportunity to learn about this incredible ecosystem we have in our own backyard.” The ultimate hope of the Conservancy is to convey the message that Haleakalā is more than just a tourist destination. “The crater is a very important part of our community in terms of pride of association, and we are thrilled to be able to participate in that,” says Meidell. “We are just getting started, but we intend to be around for hundreds of years,” says Alec. “We are following this grand tradition of conservancies across the U.S., and it is incredibly exciting to be here as we take our first steps.” MY

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ISLAND PORTRAIT

Hōlanikū Mokupāpapa Kure Atoll

Manawai Holoikauaua Pearl & Hermes Atoll

Kamole Kauō Laysan Island Kuaihelani Pihemanu Midway Atoll

‘Ōnūnui, ‘Ōnūiki Pūhāhonu Gardner Pinnacles Mokumanamana Necker Island Nihoa

Original boundary

Kapou Papa‘āpoho Lisianski Island

Expanded boundary Kai‘aikawaha genealogy names (Ancient Hawaiian names)

Kamokuokamohoali‘i Ko‘anako‘a Maro Reef

Hawaiian Lexicon Committee names (Contemporary Hawaiian names) Common names (Derived from modern nautical charts)

Spread: A flock of noio kōhā (brown noddies) take flight over the lagoon at Hōlanikū (Kure Atoll).

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Lalo Kānemiloha‘i French Frigate Shoals

Our

Story by Teya Penniman | Photography by Zach Pezzillo

Kaua‘i O‘ahu Ni‘ihau

Moloka‘i Maui Lāna‘i

Kaho‘olawe The Hawaiian Islands are drifting to the northwest at 3.4 inches per year. Hawai‘i

Islands For many people — tourists and residents alike — the map of Hawai‘i runs from Kaua‘i to the southernmost end of Hawai‘i Island, aka Moku o Keawe. Recent spectacular eruptions remind us that the birth of each island occurs over a hot spot deep below the surface of the sea. Oft forgotten, however, is the string of islands, atolls and shoals that are slowly, inexorably, being shuttled northwestward from their place of origin by the steady creep of the Pacific plate. While the youngest and highest still straddle the stationary hot spot, older rocks ride the plate toward an imminent watery abyss. The movement of our remote archipelago — rising, sliding and sinking — has been on auto-play for millennia. Kure Atoll, at the farthest end of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands (NWHI), once stood tall and proud. Now, at the distinguished age of 29 million years,

Lo‘ihi

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

ISLAND PORTRAIT

Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument is the largest contiguous protected conservation area in the U.S., larger than all of America’s national parks combined. Top: Covering just 171 acres, Nīhoa Island appears to float above the Pacific. Its name means “toothed” in Hawaiian, a reference to the island’s shape and appearance. Left: A curious ‘ō‘ili ‘uwī ‘uwī (fantail filefish) off ‘Ōnūnui (Gardner Pinnacles) eyeballs the photographer.

its highest point rises a scant 20 feet above sea level. Beyond the atolls to the north lie the Emperor Seamounts, whose inevitable journey back to the center of the earth began some 81 million years ago. The Western theory of plate tectonics was first posited in the early 1960s to explain the volcanic origins of the archipelago, but ancient Hawaiians had a narrative for its birth long before. In the Kumulipo, the Hawaiian creation chant, a coral polyp is the first life to emerge from the slimy darkness, explaining its role in the formation and function of modern-day marine ecosystems. The story of the goddess Pele captures the chronology and origin of the Islands: Pele worked her way down the chain from Ni‘ihau to Maui, searching for an island to call home. Each time she dug a fire pit, seawater extinguished the flames, until she reached Hawai‘i Island, where her fire still burns today. These kūpuna (ancestor) islands now form the core of the Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument, a designation given by President Bush in 2006 that highlighted the importance of protecting its biological diversity and cultural significance. A decade later, President Obama nearly doubled the protected area to cover more than 582,000 square miles of the Pacific Ocean, making it one

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of the largest marine preserves in the world. During the process of designating the area as a sanctuary, a cultural group worked to find a name that would honor the genealogy and formation of the islands: Papahānaumokuākea, a title that speaks of a fertile woman giving birth to a stretch of islands beneath a benevolent sky. These islands have long held cultural and spirital significance for Native Hawaiians, who visited and used them for thousands of years before the first Westerners came ashore. They are considered sacred — a place of primordial darkness from which life springs, and to which spirits return after death. Hawaiians continue to maintain strong ties to the NWHI, making regular visits to the more accessible atolls to perpetuate traditional knowledge and protect the terrestrial and marine environments. The 10 main atolls and their surrounding waters deserve our respect and care, and not just because they are senior citizens. These were the birthing grounds of the plants and animals that now give life to our reefs, beaches, forests and mountains. As each new island rose from the sea, species from the older islands made their way via wind, wing and wave to the emerging rocks, setting down roots, creating soil and giving nutrients to emerging reef systems. Over time, the isolation yet relative proximity of the islands to one another fostered the development of unrivalled biodiversity, and today more than 10,000 Hawaiian species found here exist nowhere else in the world. Maui may be a youthful 1 million years old, but the ancestors of its honeycreepers date back about 7 million years. The NWHI serve as nursery grounds for rare birds, sea turtles and monk seals. Millions of seabirds fill the skies above the atolls of Kure, Midway, Laysan, Lisianski, and Pearl and Hermes. One individual bird seems to embody the islands’ inherent polarity of age and youth: Wisdom, a 70-year old mōlī (Laysan albatross) and the oldest known

LEFT: GREG MCFALL (NOAA) / OPPOSITE TOP: JOHN BURNS (NOAA)

Opposite, top: Reef dwellers, such as banded angelfish and damselfish, flit above the coral in Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument. Opposite, bottom: A solitary mōlī (Laysan albatross) nests beneath a double rainbow on Hōlanikū.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

ISLAND PORTRAIT

A kioea (bristle-thighed curlew) tiptoes through marine debris washed ashore on Hōlanikū. Kioea migrate nearly 2,500 miles from Hawai‘i to Alaska in the spring to breed.

wild bird on the planet, returned to Midway Atoll in December, 2021, for yet another round of egg-laying, incubation and chick-rearing. As rising seas hasten the disappearance of the albatrosses’ nesting areas, finding and protecting suitable breeding grounds on higher, younger islands helps ensure these majestic birds will continue to soar across the waves. It might take 200,000 years before the newly forming island of Kama‘ehuakanaloa breaks the surface just south of Moku o Keawe. Maui will be further along on its subductive journey back to the depths. But the appearance of the new volcano might be seen by an albatross searching for a nesting spot — evidence that it’s not too late to take care of our kūpuna. papahanaumokuakea.gov | IG @ papahanaumokuakea.hawaii | FB @ papahanaumokuakea In 2008, the Hawaiian Outrigger Canoe Voyaging Society paddled the entire 1,650-mile archipelago in a six-man outrigger canoe. Go to mauimagazine.net/straight-til-friday and mauimagazine.net/voyageto-hawaiian-islands/ to read about their inspiring journey.

Kure Atoll, the northernmost coral atoll in the world, is the oldest part of the Hawaiian Island chain still above water.

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LEFT: NOAA OFFICE OF OCEAN EXPLORATION & RESEARCH / BOTTOM: USGS

This previously undescribed species of octopod was discovered in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands in 2016 at a depth of 4,290 meters — nearly 2.5 miles! It is the deepestdwelling octopus yet discovered.

A noio kōhā surveys the treetops on Hōlanikū. Right: The ‘iwa (great frigatebird) is Hawai‘i’s largest bird. Here, a male rubs his inflated gular pouch against a female, (who looks less than impressed).

BOTTOM: NOAA OFFICE OF OCEAN EXPLORATION & RESEARCH

A group of ‘ā (brown boobies) congregate on the beach. These seabirds dive-bomb into the ocean from as high as 65 feet to catch fish and squid near the water’s surface.

In 2016, a community of brisingid sea stars was discovered in the expansion area of Papahānaumokuākea. These filter-feeding echinoderms hold their arms up to catch tiny crustaceans and other food drifting in the current.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

Living Pono Nature meets design in this ecofriendly Ha‘ikū home.

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Story by Lara McGlashan Photography by Ryan Siphers

AT HOME

Opposite: White-tile flooring leads the eye seamlessly from the courtyard through the home and out to the patio in back. The striking blue-tile roof adds a Balinese feel to the home while also keeping indoor spaces temperate. This page: Natural ‘ōhi’a posts surround the main living space, which features a vaulted ceiling and a glasspaneled wall that folds open completely to take advantage of the trade winds.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

A covered bridge leads guests over the lap pool to their living quarters — a bright, open space with priceless views. Opposite: The solarheated saltwater pool and hot tub use a variable-speed pump to improve efficiency and minimize the use of chemicals.

pull off the busy Hāna Highway and onto an inconspicuous residential street in Ha‘ikū. As I drive down the gentle slope, the traffic noise behind me fades away and is replaced by birdsong and breezes. I turn onto a small dirt road and find Ponohouse almost at the end. In Hawaiian, the word pono has no direct English translation. In some cases, it’s a rather abstract concept — a way of looking at life that calls for people to live in a state of harmony with the ‘āina (land), the natural world and those around you. In another context, to make things pono means to set things right by being thankful, taking responsibility and being kind. Either way, it’s a fitting name for the residence. When they began the remodel in 2020, the homeowners did so with sustainability and longevity in mind while also aiming to highlight the home’s unique design and incredible location on the planet. As I park, I immediately notice the roof. Brilliant azure tiles ripple downward in a Balinese-style pattern, culminating in a wavelike lip at the gutter. I walk through the gate and into an open courtyard

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covered in bright white tile. The tile continues through an airy great room and back outside where it terminates in a curved patio edge, a sharp contrast dividing land and sky. One homeowner and her friend, who helped imagine the remodel, meet me in the courtyard. I remark on the beauty of the roof and the homeowner lights up. “It was the first thing I loved about the house when we bought it in 1999,” she says. “It’s beautiful, but also functional: the tiles help shed the heat on hot days and insulate the home on chillier ones.” “You’ll notice the roof overhangs are supported by these ‘ōhi‘a posts,” says the friend, pointing to a colonnade of stout tree-trunk pillars that march around the perimeter of the courtyard. “They repeat throughout the house, but were lost in the original design. The colors and textures were all over the place, which broke up the rooms and made everything very busy.” The homeowners rethought the entire flow of the home, taking the dark, fractured aesthetic and making it more cohesive and

AT HOME

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

AT HOME

Above: With sustainability in mind, the homeowners refinished the cabinetry rather than replacing it. A new tile backsplash adds texture and interest to the kitchen. Left: A whimsical new LED light fixture hangs above the dining table — an admitted design “splurge.”

contemporary. Taupe Saltillo tile and buckling bamboo floors were replaced with Italian tile throughout. Rust-colored walls, wooden doors and dark trim were painted bright white, and the exterior was repainted to blend better with the natural landscape. The courtyard flows into a large, open living space with a vaulted ceiling held aloft by another series of ‘ōhi‘a posts. Now, surrounded by clean, snowy walls and floors, the posts do indeed stand out. “We have no air-conditioning,” says the homeowner. “The open design of the house allows the trade winds to blow through and keep us cool year-round.” To the right is the kitchen, an open, functional space with rich wooden cabinetry and a textured tile backsplash, its pattern simultaneously reminiscent of flowers and snowflakes. “We were determined to reuse rather than replace whenever possible,” says the homeowner. “We removed the cabinets above the stove to improve the flow of the room and reinstalled them in the laundry room rather than discarding them. I splurged on a few things, though — new appliances and fun design elements such as the light fixtures.” I admire the gold-toned fixture above the dining table, a lighted collection of Pick-Up Sticks, one stacked upon the next. In the kitchen, three hand-blown glass pendants bathe the workspace with light. We make our way to the back patio, which is surrounded by newly installed artificial grass; a nifty putting green is tucked in along the far side of the home. “The real grass was sharp and prickly and no one wanted to walk outside barefoot,” says the homeowner. “We replaced it with synthetic

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Stone Tile | Porcelain Tile | Granite & Stone Slabs | Quartz Slabs | Glass Tile Custom Fabrication & Installation In Stock & Special Order Cabinetr y 25 Kahului Beach Road, Kahului 808.871.7595 (tel) | 808.871.7059 (fax) www.CeramicTilePlus.com Contractor’s License #C32353

AT HOME

Clockwise, from top left: A mirrored wall in the master bathroom reflects the land and sea opposite, visually bringing the outside in. Taking a bath has never been so luxurious. A synthetic-grass putting green allows family and friends to practice their short game. The lush, rolling Ha‘ikū hillside tumbles down to the sea; the solar panels that power the home peek out from the foliage below.

grass that does not require watering or mowing, and which feels great on bare feet. A win-win!” I walk to the edge of the patio and peek down the steep hill. Below are layers of solar panels that power the home, heat the water and charge the electric car. “We installed the panels down there to leave our roof unmolested,” the homeowner explains. I spend a few moments admiring the vista. The land drops off sharply just below the panels, a hillside of tumbling green herbage punctuated by volcanic outcroppings. To the right, a tall mock-orange hedge buffers the trades. To the left, towering trees march downward into a deep gulley. And a mile below — the ocean. We watch as a whale rises, spouts and dives. “Sometimes at night, when there’s no wind, the whales’ spouts are so loud they sound like elephants chuffing right outside the house!” says the homeowner. “The shape of the land funnels the sound right up the hill.” We head inside to the master bedroom where, large, sliding-glass doors in two of the walls afford the same unobstructed view as from the patio. This tableau is repeated in the mirrored wall above the double vanity in the master bath. The same flower-flake tile from the kitchen — in a larger format — surrounds a deep soaker tub nestled snugly into a glass-enclosed corner.

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Above: The “garden” guest room has windows on three sides and affords easy access to the lap pool.

We return to the courtyard, and the friend provides insight as to its transformation. “There was a sunken fountain right in the middle of this space which broke it up, so we got rid of it and removed a lot of the landscaping,” she says. “You have to know your environment,” adds the homeowner. “The bromeliads around the border were beautiful, but they are succulents and are prized for retaining water. Here, where it’s wet and tropical, they were simply mosquito-makers.” The unwanted foliage was replaced with native plants that require less water, as well as ground cover like wild oregano, which,

The outdoor furniture is weatherproof and simple so as not to detract from the view.

HUE

210 Alamaha INTER IO R D ESt., S IKahului G N +| 808.873.6910 DECOR 112 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea 808.879.6910 www.MauiHue.com

HOME LIFESTYLE DESIGN Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

AT HOME

The previous homeowners used this guest room as an art studio — who could ask for better inspiration?

Outdoor Living

2 61 L A L O S T R E E T . K A H U L U I . M A U I 873-8325 . OUT-DOOR-LIVING.COM

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according to the homeowner, has the added benefit of being disliked by pesky coqui frogs. In front and to the right is a large landscaped section of the four-acre property with several mature trees bearing coconuts, bananas, star fruit, limes and avocados. Their leaves rustle and sway above an herb garden filled with both medicinal and culinary plants. As we enter a guest room on the right, I suddenly realize that the home is, in fact, a clever series of little pods connected by open, outdoor spaces — the epitome of tropical living. This well-windowed room is surrounded by foliage, and features a plush bed and private bath. A second door on the far side leads to a charming covered bridge arching over a lap pool, at the far end of which is a hot tub. Across the bridge is another living pod: above, a guest room and bath with a lofted ceiling and plenty of windows; below, a caretaker’s apartment complete with bedroom, kitchen and bath. As we walk toward the front gate, the homeowner shares a tale of furnishing woe. “When we started the remodel, we ordered a lot of new furniture,” she says. “That was almost two years ago and as you can see, much of it is still not here!” We commiserate about this Covid-related collateral damage for a bit, glad we can laugh about it with health and happiness. “I hope you enjoyed our home,” says the homeowner as we say our goodbyes. “With a little more effort, we believe we can make our house — and our lifestyle — carbon-negative.” With a little more effort, so can we all.

Executive chef Alvin Savella holds up some fresh ‘ōpakapaka outside Māla, one of the three restaurants he manages for Southern Aloha Hospitality. Opposite, from top: This kiawe tree has overseen many a change in Lahaina during its 184 years on the planet. A special Wagyu miso soup is crafted tableside.

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ROB FARRELL

DINING

A TREE, A TRIO & A TREAT

HEIDI SPENO

STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

The sun sets behind the 60-foot kiawe tree near the water’s edge at Māla Ocean Tavern in Lahaina, casting shadows across the outdoor dining area — long, dusky tentacles creeping across the grass and reaching for our heels. This kiawe is more than 180 years old and the channels and bumps running up and down its gnarled, ancient trunk remind me of the Ents (talking treelike beings) in J.R.R. Tolkien’s The Lord of the Rings. My sister, Heidi, and her husband, Troy, who are visiting Maui after a 23-year hiatus, are taken by the majestic tree. Alexandra Vrbanc, our server for the evening, notes their interest. “Isn’t it fabulous?” says Vrbanc. “It’s one of the oldest kiawe trees on the island. When the outdoor seating area was added, we [at Māla] felt we needed to take care of it, not cut it down.” We’ve come here to celebrate my family’s long-awaited visit and, of course, to enjoy a meal prepared by 2018 ‘Aipono Chef of the Year Alvin Savella. Savella took over as executive chef for both Māla and Down the Hatch a little over a year ago. Since his debut at Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort’s Pulehu Grill in 2015, I’ve come to trust his uncompromising style and creativity, talents which recently garnered Māla acclaim from Forbes Magazine as one of five businesses to watch in 2022. We begin the evening with a glass of De Chanceny Cremant de Loire Brut Rosé sparkling wine and a classic Māla appetizer: spice-rubbed seared ‘ahi bruschetta with edamame puree, tomatoes and radish sprouts on rustic seeded crostini. A drizzle of piquant balsamic reduction ties the flavors together perfectly. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

DINING

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Top: Māla delivers a front-row seat for sunset. Above: A perfectly chargrilled ribeye comes with fresh vegetables from Hua Momona Farms. Opposite, clockwise from top left: The “What’s Up, Doc?” cocktail is made with organic gin, turmeric, ginger and a blend of fresh juices. This chocolate dessert is an explosion of delight, from the tip of the hazelnut croquant fuse to the last bite of the Maui chocolate-mousse bomb. Poisson cru arrives encircled by a colorful Moloka‘i purple sweet-potato-chip “lei.” An exceptional appetizer: seared ‘ahi bruschetta atop seeded crostini with sweet tomatoes, local microgreens and a drizzle of balsamic reduction.

RM SHUTTERWORKS

“Compliments of the chef,” says Vrbanc as she places a bowl of poisson cru on our table. “Lime-marinated mahimahi in coconut milk with fresh Maui avocado, Kula sweet onions and a drizzle of chili oil.” In no time, our foursome has devoured every delicious morsel. Chef Savella and sous chef Kalei Ducheneau make a personal appearance, bearing a culinary gift of Wagyu miso soup. “I thought you’d enjoy a little palate cleanser,” Savella says as he prepares the dish tableside. He pours steaming broth into a large bowl over paper-thin slices of marbled beef, tender tofu, long daikon “noodles” and herbaceous shiso (Perilla frutescens), and serves each of us a bowl. We dip again and again with wooden spoons until nothing remains. Sommelier Sergio Baltazar arrives and uncorks a bottle of 2019 Langhe Nebbiolo Starda. “Nebbiolo is similar to a pinot grape, but with thinner skin,” he explains. “This is a relatively young wine, but it has a good balance of tannins and berries. I think it will go nicely with your entrees.” As if summoned by his words, our dinner arrives. We’ve ordered a trio of dishes to share family-style: a slow-braised pork shank in misorosemary sauce; a juicy ribeye with peppercorn butter, a warm kale salad and parmesan-truffle fries; and a deep-fried ‘ōpakapaka served whole on a bed of Chinese black-bean fried rice with shredded carrots, green beans, cherry tomatoes, edamame and shiitake mushrooms. Though the pork and ribeye evoke sighs of pleasure around the table, the star is the ‘ōpakapaka, which could easily have fed all four of us. Each bite is a flavorful celebration of textures and tastes. We consider tapping out for dessert, but before we can concede, Vrbanc arrives with a chocolate-bomb dessert platter in one hand and a butterscotch pot de crème in the other. “These are our most popular desserts — you have to try them!” she says. We “try” them with gusto, right down to the last crumb of hazelnut croquant on the chocolate mousse. The kiawe’s inky shadow blends into the darkness, and it’s time to take our leave. We vow to return soon, perhaps this time during the day to enjoy a seaside brunch beneath its venerable canopy of leaves.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

TOP RIGHT: ROB FARRELL / ALL OTHERS: RM SHUTTERWORKS

DINING HIGHLIGHTS

Story by Becky Speere

When I was 12 years old, I went to my friend Janice Isemoto’s house for dinner and a sleepover. We were tasked with helping prepare dinner, and as I washed the iceberg lettuce, Mrs. Isemoto shared her secrets for the perfect burger. “The most important thing is the beef,” she said. “Always use a good cut. In our house, we use sirloin.” She indicated a large

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yellow Corningware bowl inside of which sat two pounds of said sirloin. Mrs. Isemoto added salt, pepper and diced onions, then instructed us to mix it well with our hands. “But don’t mix it too much or it’ll be tough!” she said in her best schoolteacher voice. (Mrs. Isemoto taught second grade at Chiefess Kapi‘olani Elementary School.) “Very good! Now pat the burgers into the same size. There should be eight.” We handed our plate of perfect patties to Mr. Isemoto, who placed them in neat rows on the charcoal grill and supervised their progress. When the centers were juicy and pink and studded with sweet, whiteonion jewels, Mr. Isemoto proclaimed them ready to eat. To this day, those were the best burgers I have ever had. Though nothing can top the fond memory and taste of Mrs. Isemoto’s burgers, these five island iterations come very close. Sample these sandwiches yourself and create your own perfect-burger experience.

MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Maui Cattle Company Cheeseburger The atmosphere at Monkeypod Kitchen resembles a boisterous honky-tonk. My husband and I settle in at the bar, and I sip

a mai tai made with Kula rum, macadamianut orgeat and honey-liliko‘i (passionfruit) foam as the musician plays an upbeat tune to a roomful of joyful patrons. I am smiling and happy as our server arrives, and my smile widens as she delivers my grass-fed Maui Cattle Company beef burger. I cut the burger in half and take my first, delicious bite. It’s cooked perfectly and is topped with a sweet ‘n’ sour namasu-style pickle, savory sauteed onions, Dijon aioli, creamy fontina cheese, a thick slice of sweet tomato and locally grown butter lettuce. My sides of garlic-truffle-oil fries and crunchy won bok kimchee slaw complete my meal, the ultimate treat on a perfect spring day. 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali | 808.878.6763 | monkeypodkitchen.com | IG @monkeypodkitchen | FB @monkeypod kitchenkaanapali

TAVERNA CPB House Burger It’s happy hour as I admire the view from Taverna’s outdoor patio overlooking the putting greens at Kapalua’s Plantation Golf Course. The day is overcast but comfortable, and a light breeze wafts through as I sip a Kohola Brewing Lahaina Haze Pale Ale. The citrus- and pine-forward IPA will pair

MONKEYPOD KITCHEN

Sun’s Out, Buns Out

Monkeypod Kitchen

SEA-TO-TABLE CUISINE On Napili Bay

AWARD

WINNING

Hawaii Magazine’s Third Annual Reader’s Choice Awards: Named One of the Top Five ”Best Hotel/Resort Restaurants” and "Best for Breakfast" in the state of Hawaii

OCEANFRONT Rated “Excellent” by Zagat

Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner • Happy Hour

DINING

Maui No Ka Oi Magazine’s Annual Maui Restaurant 'Aipono Culinary Awards: Best Ocean Front Dining: Gold

and Rosé all Day

Celebrating Over 55 Years of Aloha at Napili Kai Beach Resort 5900 Lower Honoapiilani Rd • Napili • Maui • Hawaii 96761 • 808.669.1500

Hours and More Information at SeaHouseMaui.com

DINING HIGHLIGHTS

perfectly with my forthcoming CPB House Burger. It’s been some time since I’ve had this ‘Aipono Award-winning sandwich created by chef Roger Stettler at his former restaurant Cow Pig Bun (hence the “CPB” in its name). And it arrives just as I remember: a half-pound of Hawai‘i Ranchers ground beef, chargrilled to a juicy medium-rare, and topped with a generous melted cap of aged Gruyère cheese. The burger is layered with thick slices of applewoodsmoked bacon, sweet caramelized onions and a shmear of roasted garlic-bacon aioli. Sandwiched inside a golden brioche bun, this is gourmet perfection.

Taverna

Havens

Teddy’s Bigger Burgers

HAVENS Paniolo Smash Burger and Saimin It’s one of our best-kept local secrets — where to find an authentic smash burger on Maui. You know, the kind that’s griddlecooked to perfection with crunchy, crispy edges? You’ll find this nosh nirvana at Havens, Zach and Katie Sato’s takeout restaurant, which opened in late 2020. Havens (named after their baby girl) is a fine-tuned dining venue whose fare abounds with exceptional flavor profiles and expert execution — all wrapped up in a convenient to-go box. Sato serves a teriyaki smash burger reminiscent of those grilled up at the old Toda’s Drug Store in Kahului, which many enjoyed with an accompanying bowl of saimin. This sandwich-and-soupy-noodle tradition continues today at Havens. Try the Paniolo Smash Burger with applewoodsmoked bacon, a fried onion ring, American cheese and house-made barbecue sauce. And of course, pair it with some slurp-worthy saimin. Now you’re in the know! 30 Manao Kala St., Kīhei | 808.868.2600 | havensmaui.com | IG @havens_ogg

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Moku Roots

MOKU ROOTS Taro Burger Imagine a vegan burger recipe so good that other noteworthy restaurants on Maui purchase it wholesale and position it front and center on their own menus. This is the Taro Burger from multiple ‘Aipono Awardwinning vegetarian restaurant Moku Roots. Owners Alexa Caskey and Erica Gale created this plant-based burger using locally grown taro root, garlic and fresh herbs. They sear it to give it a golden crust and top it with their famous macadamia-nut aioli spread, for a note of umami and an additional dose of protein. Topped with fresh, locally grown lettuce, tomatoes and onions and served on a wheat-and-oat bun, this sandwich is so good, you’ll never miss the meat! 335 Keawe St. #221, Lahaina | 808.214.5106 | mokuroots.com | IG/FB @mokuroots

TEDDY’S BIGGER BURGERS If you enjoy your burger with a side of aloha, head to Teddy’s, where employees address

patrons as “Auntie” or “Uncle” as they dish out their signature giant burgers. Your sandwich options are Big, Bigger and Biggest, (1/3,½ and 1 pound of beef, respectively), and patties come layered with house-made teriyaki sauce, gourmet burger seasoning and sweet white onions. Optional toppings such as furikake, a fried egg, onion rings or grilled pineapple allow you to customize your hearty meal. You’ll need both hands to hold onto your burger, and inevitably some of the generous toppings will escape the soft potato bun — so make sure you grab some extra napkins. With 11 shops throughout Hawai‘i, three in Japan, one in Iowa City, and one in the Philippines, this franchise does things right. And with that little bit of aloha thrown in for free, what more do you need? Oh yeah, an order of cheesy tater tots, please! Lahaina Gateway, 335 Keawe St. #221-222, Lahaina | 808.661.911 | teddysbb.com | IG @ teddysburgers | FB @teddysbiggerburgers (Kahului location coming soon: Pu‘unēnē Shopping Center, 140 Ho‘okele, near Target.)

TOP: MIEKO HORIKOSHI | ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

2000 Village Road, Kapalua | 808.667.2426 | tavernamaui.com | IG/FB @tavernamaui

Jungle Juice MIXOLOGY

Story by Becky Speere

Cheeky Monkey Makes 1 cocktail

2 ounces blended Scotch, such as Monkey Shoulder 1 ounce orgeat syrup (See recipe below.) 1 ounce fresh lime juice ¾ ounce banana liqueur, such as Giffard Banane du Brésil 4 dashes Angostura bitters 1 sprig mint, for garnish DIRECTIONS Add first 5 ingredients to a shaker cup with ice. Shake well, then strain into a Collins glass over fresh ice. Garnish with mint.

Orgeat Syrup Makes 1½ cups 1½ cups sliced almonds ¾ cup water 1 cup sugar 5 drops orange-blossom water

Cheeky monkey cheeky monkey cheeky monkey … Say it quickly 10 times and you’ll sound like The Little Engine That Could. The Cheeky Monkey was one of the first cocktails I came to relish at The Marlin Bar in Lahaina. However, on a recent visit to this oceanside tavern, I found it was missing from the menu, so I ordered a mai tai instead. As I sipped my second-favorite libation, I cast a glance around the bar and noticed a new hardback book leaning against a bar column — The Marlin Bar, Cocktails With Tommy Bahama. I flipped through its pages and there it was — the Cheeky Monkey! Made with Monkey Shoulder Scotch, banana liqueur, almond/ orange-scented orgeat syrup and a splash of lime juice, the Cheeky Monkey transports you to a lazy, gently swaying hammock on Gilligan’s Island. (A few too many will land you in a hammock, regardless!) Not a fan of monkey business? Peruse dozens more recipes

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from Tommy Bahama restaurants, such as the Sunburn — a shaken concoction of rum, jalapeño, passionfruit, lemon juice and elderflower liqueur — or the Hawaiian Fizz mocktail made with pineapple juice, Coco Lopez and soda water. The book also offers a gamut of savory snack recipes such as poke nachos; asparagus-and-goat-cheese quesadillas topped with tomato jam and sour cream; and the Maui onion, bacon and chive dip served with potato chips, raw veggies, or pita-bread toast. A deeper dive into the chapters yields an essential-spirits guide, a section on beer and wine, and pairing suggestions for appetizers and drinks — including the Cheeky Monkey. 900 Front St., Lahaina | tommybahama.com/restaurants | 808.500.6204 | IG/FB @tommybahamarestaurant Purchase The Marlin Bar, Cocktails With Tommy Bahama (Chronicle Books, 2021) at tommybahama.com or at any Tommy Bahama restaurant.

TOMMY BAHAMA

DIRECTIONS Preheat oven to 200 F. Spread almonds on a cookie sheet and toast until golden, about 20 minutes. Allow to cool, then crush in a large bowl. Add water and steep 3 hours. Strain through a cheesecloth, squeezing to extract liquid. To a saucepan, add almond liquid, sugar and orange-blossom water and cook over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Store in refrigerator up to one month.

A P O LY N E S I A N F E A S T & S H O W A musical and culinary journey to Hawai‘i, Aotearoa, Tahiti and Samoa.

AOTEAROA Land of the long white cloud, Aotearoa – New Zealand, is home to the Maori people.

SAMOA “The cradle of Polynesia,” literally the sacred center of its fiery soul.

HAWAI‘I We begin in our beautiful island home of Hawai‘i with our chants, songs and hula .

TAHITI The land of intrigue and romance, has beckoned explorers from around the world.

667-LELE (5353) • Toll-free: 1-866-244-5353 (LELE) 505 Front Street, Lahaina, Maui, Hawai‘i W W W. F E ASTAT L E L E .CO M

Dining Guide B=Breakfast BR=Brunch L=Lunch H=Happy Hour D=Dinner N=Dinner past 9 p.m. R=Reservation recommended $=Average entrée under $15 $$=Under $25 $$$=Under $40 =‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2020 Live music! Check venue website for information. $$$$=$40+

WEST SIDE A‘A ROOTS Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Ste. 3, Nāpili, 298-2499 Vegan cuisine made with the freshest Maui produce. Try the açai bowl, soba bowl with peanut sauce, or bagel sandwich with hummus, avo and veggies. International. B, L, $ ALALOA LOUNGE  The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200 Creative farm-to-table cocktails, mocktails and an exciting selection of savory dishes from the dining menu, such as huli huli chicken, sushi and stone-oven pizza. International. D, $–$$ AMIGO’S 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210 Real Mexican fajitas, tostadas, flautas and their famous wet burritos. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D, $ AUNTIE’S KITCHEN The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3259 Saimin, burgers and fresh-fish plate lunches mingle with 2020 ‘Aipono-award-winning poke. Local Mixed Plate. B, L, D, $–$$ BANYAN TREE The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz Carlton Dr., 665-7096 Start with an heirloom tomato salad with buffalo mozzarella. Then a Hawaiian cioppino full of treasures from the sea in a tomato-fennel broth, or lobster agnolotti. End with warm Valrhona chocolate cake. Great cocktails, too! Italian. Hawai‘i Regional. D, $$–$$$$ BREAKWALL SHAVE ICE COMPANY The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., #104, Lahaina, 661-4900 Grown-up shave ice? You bet! Cool off with one of the best snow cones on Maui and discover your favorite flavor. Treats. $ CANE & CANOE Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681 Try the avocado toast and mimosas for breakfast, and prime select steaks with horseradish crème fraÎche for dinner. Lunch at the Hāna in Hou Bar includes Wagyu bacon-cheddar burgers and vegetarian selections. Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D, $$$–$$$$ CHEESEBURGER IN PARADISE 811 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4855 Wake up to oceanfront views with a cuppa joe and a luscious breakfast. For lunch, try the poke, wings, onion rings or a signature cheeseburger. For dinner: the Aloha Fish and Fries. International. B, L, D, $–$$ CHOICE HEALTH BAR 1087 Limahana Pl., #1A, Lahaina, 661-7711 Second West Maui location: Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali All juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are made with fresh ingredients. Daily specials. American. B, L, $ CLIFF DIVE GRILL Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031 Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish tacos to accompany your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $–$$ THE COFFEE STORE Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 669-4170 Stop in for coffee and a muffin and you may just end up staying for lunch — or longer. (They’re open until 6 p.m.) Great service, fresh-baked goods, yogurt-granola parfaits, chia pudding and to-go items. Coffee Shop. B, L, D, $ COOL CAT CAFÉ  The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908 Burgers, chicken and more in a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $

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DOWN THE HATCH The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900 Mermaid fries with cheese and lava sauce, towering shrimp cocktails, fresh island fish and lots of aloha. Great shave ice, too! (See Breakwall’s listing.) Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D, N, $$

Some venues may still be closed or have limited hours due to CoVid-19. Please call ahead or visit their social media sites for information.

ISLAND CREAM CO. Lahaina Gateway, 305 Keawe St., Lahaina, 298-0916 Classic flavors meet island fruit! Make your own Glacier Ice snow cone, or choose from 36 delicious flavors of ice cream. Can’t decide? Take home a few pints! Treats. L, D, $

DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$

JAPENGO Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Great steaks and authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood are among the reasons Japengo won ‘Aipono Gold for Restaurant of the Year in 2019 and Best Pacific Rim Cuisine in 2020. Japanese. D, N, $$$

DUKE’S BEACH HOUSE MAUI Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900 Imagine Old Hawai‘i while dining on crab-and-macadamia-nut wontons or prime rib at this open-air beach house. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$

JOEY’S KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474 Second West Maui location: Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 2145590 Start your day with macadamia nut pancakes or a kālua-pork omelet at Whalers Village, and end with dinner at the Nāpili venue. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $–$$

FEAST AT LELE 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353 This classic beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$

LAHAINA GRILL 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117 Treat yourself to a pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad, sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with jasmine rice, or their famous Kona coffee-roasted rack of lamb with coffee-cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selection and cocktails, too! American/Pacific Rim. D, R, $$$$

FLEETWOOD’S ON FRONT ST. 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425 (Yes, that Fleetwood!) Pacific oysters with tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome and a one-pound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. Bar opens at 2 p.m. American/British Pub Food. L, H, D, N, $$–$$$$ FOND Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., #115, Nāpili, 856-0225 Breakfast silog bowls with garlic fried rice, sammies for lunch, Wednesday night friedchicken special and Sunday Chef’s Table. Eurasian. B, L, D, $–$$ FRIDA’S MEXICAN BEACH HOUSE 1287 Front St., Lahaina, 661-1287 Chalupas, fresh aguachile ‘ahi, short-rib tacos and great mixology are among the reasons this seaside restaurant won the Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Mexican Cuisine. Latin-inspired. L, H, D, $–$$ GAZEBO Napili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Nāpili, 669-5621 Have breakfast for lunch, or lunch for breakfast! Fluffy pancakes, omelets, plate lunches with Cajun-spiced chicken or kālua pork, salads and seven burgers to choose from. Ocean views are free! International. B, BR, L, $ HONU SEAFOOD & PIZZA 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390 Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D, $$ HUIHUI Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 262-8450 Chef Tom Muromoto’s menu features local flavors in an oceanfront setting. For breakfast, try poi pancakes with coconut syrup; for lunch, a Moloka‘i venison burger; and for dinner, poke, lū‘au plates, seafood and pan-fried rib-eye steak. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, $-$$$$ HULA GRILL Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636 Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy poke tacos, mai tais, homemade ice-cream sandwiches and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $$ INU POOL BAR The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6370 Islandfresh mixology earned Inu the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best Cocktails — taste for yourself! Enjoy Maui Brewing Company’s Coconut Hiwa beer-can chicken with shoestring potatoes and buttermilk dip, or beer-battered tempura fish with Ocean Vodka tartar sauce. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $–$$

LEILANI’S ON THE BEACHWhalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495 Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors with guava chicken wings, ‘ahi poke with taro chips, and crab cakes with tomatillo aioli. Entrees include filet mignon with green onion gremolata or Parmesan-crusted fresh catch. Don’t forget the Hula Pie! Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, H, D, N, $-$$$$ LEODA’S KITCHEN & PIE SHOP 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600 Try the house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread with pineapple coleslaw and an ice-cold beer. The mac-nut chocolate cream pie and fresh-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance! American. B, L, D, $ LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476 This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. See also South Shore listing. Kid-friendly. Treats. $ LONGHI’S Marriot’s Maui Ocean Club, 100 Nohea Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-2288. Try a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemon-feta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. BR (Fri-Sun), D. $$ MĀLA OCEAN TAVERN 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9394 Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the health-conscious and hedonistic alike at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (Sat & Sun), L, D, $$ MAUIGROWN COFFEE CO. STORE 277 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-2728 Running low on energy? Head to MauiGrown’s plantation-style hale for a boost. Pumpkin bread and other baked goods round out a great cuppa joe. Coffee Shop/Cafe. B, L, $ MAUKA MAKAI The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6400 Expect the freshest fish, beef, lamb, vegetable sautees and island-inspired desserts at this restaurant that celebrates the fishing and farming cultures of ancient Hawai‘i. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $–$$$ MERRIMAN’S KAPALUA 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua, 669-6400 Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create the most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. BR (Sun), L, D, R, $$–$$$$

A Constellation, A Gathering, A Mixture - All Things Huihui

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Dining Guide More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide MISO PHAT SUSHI Kahana Manor, 4310 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #111, Kahana, 669-9010 See South Shore listing.

PRISON STREET PIZZA 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332 East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Italian/Pizza. L, D, $

MOKU ROOTS 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 214-5106 This vegan/vegetarian venue is worth a visit! Winner of the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best New Restaurant and 2020 Silver for Tastiest Healthy Fare. Vegetarian/ Vegan. B, L, D, $

ROY’S 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999 Line up for a great Maui burger at lunchtime. For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, daikon and pickled ginger. Save room for the signature Melting Hot Chocolate Souffle! Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$$

MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763 See South Shore listing. OLD LĀHAINA LŪ‘AU 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0700 Eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$ PACIFIC’O 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341 Oceanfront dining with fresh produce from the restaurant’s own Upcountry farm. Poke, seafood and steak. Hawai‘i Regional. D (Tues-Sat), $$-$$$$ PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 632 Front St., Lahaina, 662-3456 See North Shore listing. PAPA‘AINA Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636 Try the curated menu from Bravo’s Top Chef competitor Lee Anne Wong. Smoked salmon Benedict for breakfast, cheesy kālua-pork nachos and a cold beer at happy hour. Dig into a plate of linguini with shrimp and Portuguese sausage for dinner. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $–$$ PIZZA PARADISO MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929 Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D, $–$$

ROYAL OCEAN TERRACE RESTAURANT Royal Lahaina Resort & Spa, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-3611 Breakfast offerings include loco moco and eggs Benedict, or go light with avocado toast topped with microgreens. Burgers and prime rib, too. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $–$$ SALE PEPE 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667 Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci puree on grilled crostini and house-made strozzapreti pasta — just like chef Michele Di Bari’s mama makes in Italy. Good Italian wines and beer. Italian/Pizza. D, $$ SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286 Small and action-packed, D.K. Kodama’s classy sushi bar draws lines late into the night. Try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a sip of sake. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, R, $$$ THE SEA HOUSE RESTAURANT Napili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-1500 Start the day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp as the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesdays, stay for Grammy Award-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack-Key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$

SON’Z STEAKHOUSE Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506 Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce will rock your evening. Sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or mahimahi in lemoncaper butter. Pacific Rim/Steak. H, D, N, $$–$$$$ STAR NOODLE 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5400 Big-city style and local flavors unite. Enjoy a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea as you drink in the view of Lāna‘i across the channel. The ramen broth is extra smoky, the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D, $$ TAVERNA 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426 Dining heaven. House-made pasta, agrodolce-style fish of the day and Italian desserts stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Great wine, cocktails and craft beer. Italian. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$ TEDDY’S BIGGER BURGERS 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111 The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $ THAI CHEF Old Lahaina Center, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814 This well-loved venue keeps diners coming back. Commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls and beef salad drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D, $ ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 790 Front St., Lahaina, 877-3700 Second West Maui location: Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali Homemade tropical-flavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Kid-friendly. Treats. $ ‘ŪMALU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4902 Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back

NEW COV ERE D OUT DOO R SEATING !

SILVER Best Italian SILVER Best Handcrafted Cocktails

GOLD Best Italian GOLD Best Handcrafted Cocktails

DINNER: 5pm-10pm HAPPY HOUR LUNCH: 12pm-5pm SUNDAY BRUNCH: 10am-1pm

808-667-CIAO (2426)

WWW.TAVERNAMAUI.COM 2000 Village Rd, Kapalua, Maui

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Client: Leoda’s Trim 4.64" x4.785” Color: FULL

a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, $$$ WAIKIKI BREWING COMPANY 900 Front St., Lahaina, 856-0036 Paddy’s Irish Stout and Waikele Wheat brew temper the heat of the jalapeño queso dip served with a giant pretzel. Follow it up with smoked Kona-coffee-rubbed beef brisket and cheddar potato cake and you’ll be one happy patron. American. BR, L, D, $–$$ WELOWELO Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 262-8450 Poolside bar and grill offering unique Hawai‘i regional fare, pizzas, burgers and salads. Stop in for a cool cocktail or tropical ice cream. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $-$$

SOUTH SHORE 1054 TOGOSHI South Maui Center, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 868-0307 Chef Manabu’s 25 years as a sushi chef — two as head chef at Morimoto’s Maui — shine through in fresh sashimi and sushi. Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of each month. Sushi. D, $–$$

·BURGERS

AND OUR HOMEMADE SWEET & SAVORY PIES

AKAMAI COFFEE COMPANY 1325 S. Kīhei Rd., #100, Kīhei, 868-3251 Second South Shore location: 116 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 868-0003 Experience coffee and espresso done right at this 2020 ‘Aipono Gold Award-winner for Best Coffee Shop. Coffee Shop. $ BISTRO MOLOKINI Grand Wailea Maui Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 A casual, openair eatery serving organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips and grilled mahimahi made with fresh, local ingredients. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $$$ BOTERO LOUNGE Grand Wailea Maui Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Named for the surrounding Fernando Botero sculptures, this lounge offers nightly entertainment. On Thirsty Thursdays, a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. Lounge. L, D, H, N, $ CAFE O’LEI 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368 Choose from macadamia nut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$ COCONUT’S FISH CAFEAzeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979 Dive into fresh fish tacos, a grilled fish burger or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D, $$ CUATRO 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-1110 Latin and Pacific Rim flavors mingle at this pocket-sized restaurant. Try the spicy ‘ahi nachos or the “Mauiterranian” fish dressed in basil beurre blanc, salsa and balsamic syrup. Latin/Pacific Rim. D, $$$

OPEN DAILY FROM 10 AM to 6 PM leodaskitchenandpieshop leodasmaui leodasmaui

Lahaina Fried Soup Pohole Salad HAPA RAMEN STAR UDON AHI AVO GARLIC NOODLES Singapore Noodles Steamed Pork Buns PAD THAI SAKE COCKTAILS UDON

DUO Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Breakfast buffet or à la carte? Did someone mention chateaubriand? Four Seasons never disappoints. Pacific Rim. B, D, $–$$$ ESKIMO CANDY SEAFOOD MARKET & DELI 2665 Wai Wai Pl., Kīhei, 891-8898 Locals come for the rice bowl topped with poke mixes like shoyu, spicy wasabi and furikake. Fresh opah and chips with cabbage coleslaw, too. Seafood/Deli. L, D, $–$$ FABIANI’S PIZZERIA & BAKERY South Maui Center, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888 Second South Shore location: 34 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 874-1234 Enjoy bagels and lox, fresh croissants, caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, and spaghetti with house-made pork sausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. B, L, D, $$ FAT DADDY’S SMOKEHOUSE 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711 What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked for 15

FRESH HOUSE MADE NOODLES & ASIAN SPECIALTIES SERVING LUNCH & DINNER

1285 FRONT STREET NEXT DOOR TO THE OLD LĀHAINĀ LŪ‘AU

RESERVATIONS & TAKE-OUT

808.667.5400

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

Dining Guide More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide hours over kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans and two cabbage slaws: one sweet/tart and one with blue cheese and apples. American. D, $–$$

ISLAND GOURMET MARKETS The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055 Sushi to go, deli sandwiches, plate lunches and more. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $

FERRARO’S BAR E RISTORANTE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 For lunch, enjoy a veggie quesadilla or a grilled tenderloin sandwich served poolside. For dinner, salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, H, D, $$$$

KA‘ANA KITCHEN Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 So many choices! A Wagyu hangar steak on a green papaya salad, charred octopus with local goat cheese, Kona abalone risotto, and a modern take on chicken and waffles. Curated wine list and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D, $$$$

FORK & SALAD 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675 Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, glutenand dairy-free options. International. L, D, $ FOUR SEASONS LOBBY LOUNGE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Impeccable service, a locally sourced menu, swanky cocktails and performances by local musicians. Pacific Rim. H, D, N, $$$$ GANNON’S 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 875-8080 Order drinks at the Red Bar, then enjoy chef Bev Gannon’s fine comfort food: maple vinaigrette chicken salad, or venison atop Parmesan risotto. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$$ HAVENS 30 Manao Kala St., Kīhei, 868-2600 Named one of the top 50 new restaurants in America by Forbes Magazine. Local boy Zach Sato, former chef de cuisine at Hawai‘i’s Relais & Chateâux hotel and restaurant, is a star. Try the smash burger and noodles — chopsticks in one hand and burger in the other — local style! Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, $–$$ HUMBLE MARKET KITCHIN Wailea Beach Resort, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655 Chef Roy Yamaguchi hits it out of the park with kampachi crudo, seasonal Goose Point oysters, roasted Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, tender beef short ribs and even saimin. Pacific Regional. B, H, D, $–$$$

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KAMANA KITCHEN 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-7888 Eye-catching art and Indian relics accent a menu highlighting exotic spices and dishes, all lovingly created from family recipes. Lunch buffet. Indian. L, D, $–$$ KIHEI CAFFE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230 Hungry at 5 a.m.? Head to this local hangout for banana-mac-nut pancakes, loco moco and a cuppa joe. Cafe. B, L, $–$$ KŌ Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock” — three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock to sear them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, H, D, R, $$$ LEHUA LOUNGE Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Cocktails created with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients like lychee, liliko‘i and Hawaiian navel oranges pair perfectly with Ka‘ana Kitchen’s award-winning menu. Lounge. H, $ LINEAGE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8800 If steamed clams with housemade “XO” and lup cheong sausage, Maui beef with black garlic, and hulihuli chicken with pineapple kim chee get your juices flowing, head to Wailea — now! Eat. Drink. Talk story. Pacific Rim. D, $–$$

LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE Kīhei Kalama Village Shopping Center, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 3449779 Chill out! Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with Plantation Era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut pudding) and macadamia nut ice cream. Treats. $ LUANA LOUNGE Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100 This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kālua pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce and lomilomi tomato, paired with an ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, H, D, $–$$ MANOLI’S PIZZA COMPANY 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499 Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppine. Italian/Pizza. L, H, D, N, $$ MAUI BREWING CO.605 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 201-2337 MBC’s flagship restaurant offers brews, burgers, flights and more at this off-the-grid craft brewery. Brewery/Pacific Rim. L, D, $-$$ MAUI THAI BISTRO Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-5605 Thai food cooked by Thai chefs! Kaffir-scented tom yum fried rice, green mango salad with crispy fried-fish filets, and house curries. Beer and wine bar. Thai. L, D, $–$$ MISO PHAT SUSHI Azeka Shopping Center Makua, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476 Sushi served on-site, to-go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! Japanese. L, H, D, $$ MATTEO’S OSTERIA Wailea Town Center, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466 Matteo’s meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Co. beef and Italian sausage, or ‘ahi crusted with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, H, D, $$–$$$

MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Wailea Gateway Center, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322 Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner, Big Island rib-eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage and banana cream pie. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, N, $$ MULLIGANS ON THE BLUE  100 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 874-1131 Guinness poured properly at Maui’s only Irish-owned pub. Enjoy fish and chips, bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie. Great music and sports-bar action, too. Sláinte! Irish pub. L, H, D, $–$$$ NALU’S SOUTH SHORE GRILLAzeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650 Generous portions made with local ingredients served with aloha. Try the ‘ahi club with smoked bacon, fresh fish ‘n’ chips and hearty burgers. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $–$$ NICK’S FISHMARKET Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-7224 Enjoy classic seafood dishes beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. H, D, R, $$$$ NUTCHAREE’S AUTHENTIC THAI FOOD Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840 Start with the ‘ahi laab tartare salad or crispy fish and mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D, $–$$ PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888 The same yummy menu that hooked surfers and families in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei. See North Shore listing. THE PINT & CORK The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 727-2038 Mac ‘n’ cheese with black truffles, shrimp and grits with chorizo, poke bowls and burgers. During football season you can score breakfast, too! American. L, H, D, N, $–$$ PITA PARADISE Wailea Gateway Center, 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 879-7177 Start with classic spinach tiropitas with caramelized onions, feta, mozzarella and tzatziki wrapped in phyllo dough, then move on to kabobs, pasta and gyros. Finish with baklava ice-cream cake. Mediterranean. L, H, D, $–$$$ THE RESTAURANT AT HOTEL WAILEA Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224 Produce from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients around. With a gorgeous outdoor setting, it’s a night made in heaven. European-inspired. H, D, N, $$–$$$$ ROASTED CHILES Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357 Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like chicken mole, pozole verde and langostino enchiladas with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, H, D, $–$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880 Steaks and homespun side dishes worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list. American. H, D, N, $$$$

Welcome to

The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea Discover the flavors of the islands in our elegant alfresco setting with sweeping views of three Hawaiian Islands. The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea infuses its menu with a distinct and flavorful sense of place. Executive Chef Bryan McMahon’s “culinary casual” fare showcases the island’s freshest, most seasonal ingredients. Perched on the hillside above Maui’s south coast, the restaurant offers panoramic ocean views from the open-air upper lanai and intimate dining under the stars in the garden. The Birdcage Bar lounge experience offers a selection of craft cocktails, fine wines and small plates set against 180° ocean views.

555 Kaukahi St., Wailea hotelwailea.com/rhw | 808.879.2224

SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR Kukui Mall, 1819 Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-0780 See West Side listing. SEASCAPE RESTAURANT Maui Ocean Center, 192 S. Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7068 Adjacent to an award-winning aquarium, Seascape serves up harbor views with a hearty side of aloha. Mahimahi sandwiches with fresh cabbage slaw, half-pound burgers and fresh veggies. Save room for the Maui Mud Pie! American. L, H, D (Sat & Sun), $$–$$$

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

Dining Guide More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide SOUTH SHORE TIKI LOUNGE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-6444 Gourmet pizza, burgers, salads and vegetarian items round out the menu at this hip bar. American. L, D, N, $ SPAGO Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Start with fresh poke nestled in crunchy sesame-miso cones, then enjoy the caramelized pork chop with exotic notes of anise, cinnamon and pineapple. Chef Peleg will have you singing his praises. Pacific Rim. D, N, $$–$$$ TANPOPO 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., #F, Kīhei, 446-3038 Lunch includes ramen, Japanese-style chicken curry, California rolls and beef burgers. Dinner fuses Italian and Japanese with pasta, flatbreads, sashimi, sushi and tempura. Japanese/Italian Fusion. L, D, $–$$$ THREE’S BAR & GRILL1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133 Eggs Benedict six ways, including seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon and prime rib. For lunch, Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen. For dinner, truffle-yaki marinated flatiron steak. Pacific Rim/Southwestern. B, L, H, D, $$–$$$ TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT & BAR The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983 Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, N, $–$$ ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE Rd., Kīhei See West Side listing.

61 S. Kīhei

VIETNAMESE CUISINE Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-2088. Start with fresh shrimp spring rolls served with piquant tamarind-peanut sauce. Then order the grilled pork with pickled root veggies and rice, a traditional clay-pot dish, or pho, steak and noodle soup. Vietnamese. L, D, $–$$

CENTRAL BISTRO CASANOVA 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 8733650 This downtown bistro serves paella for two, fresh-cut french fries and burrata caprese. Best pau hana (happy hour) in Kahului! Mediterranean. L, H, D, $–$$ CAFE O’LEI AT THE MILL HOUSE Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 5000553 Second location: The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073 Fun, expanded menu at the restaurant group’s newest venue. The most beautiful mountain view in the Central Valley! Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $–$$$ ESTERS FAIR PROSPECT 2050 Main St., Wailuku, 868-0056 Serving classic cocktails, tiki drinks, spirits, rum, Mezcal, tequila, wine and beer. Local farm-totable-inspired small plates. Rosé wine and daiquiris during happy hour. Open 2-10 p.m. Lounge/Snacks. H, N, $ FORK & SALAD Pu‘unene Shopping Center, 120 Ho‘okele St., #330, Kahului, 793-3256 See South Shore listing. MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-CUPS (2877) Pastries, muffins, salads, sandwiches, wraps, and bagels and lox made to order. Fresh-roasted coffee beans set this experience above the rest. “Happy Cappy Hour” 2-6 p.m. Coffee Shop. B, L, H, $ MAUI FRESH STREATERY MauiFreshStreatery. com, 344-7929 The 2019 ‘Aipono Chef of the Year Kyle Kawakami won the 2020 Gold ‘Aipono for Best Food Truck. Street food with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L, $

ONLY ONO BBQ Heritage Hall, Pā‘ia., OnlyOnoBBQ. com, 777-9026 Crispy-skin Chinese-style roast pork and duck, bao pork buns, plate lunches and smoked brisket. Location varies. Download menu and schedule. Chinese/American. L, D, $ POI BY THE POUND 430 Kele St., Kahului, 2839381 Eat like a local. So ‘ono! Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, $ A SAIGON CAFE 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560 Squeeze into a booth and order a Vietnamese burrito, clay pot, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D, $ SAM SATO’S 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 244-7124 This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L, $ THAI MEE UP Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369 Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles. Curry, too! Thai. Food Truck. L, D, $ TIGHT TACOS 349 Hanakai St., Kahului, 7071221 Scratch great Mexican street food off your foodie bucket list! Get the three-taco plate lunch (braised beef, pork and shrimp) with corn, rice and salsa. Mexican. L, $ TIN ROOF MAUI 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753 Sheldon Simeon of Bravo’s Top Chef fame builds memorable kau kau bowls filled with savory offerings: furikake-crusted seared salmon, Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter and a killer spicy fried-chicken sandwich. Pacific Rim. L, $ TJ’S WAREHOUSE 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 2447311 Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and a hot line of daily specials, like potato croquettes, nishime and poke. Asian. B, L, $

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ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului Second Central Maui location: 50 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku See West Side listing. UMI MAUI 1951 Vineyard St., Wailuku, 269-1802 If a California roll topped with tuna, hamachi, salmon, unagi and kim chee butter foam rocks your world, then chef Jayse Sato’s restaurant is your earthquake! Creative presentations and flavors, epic soft-shell crab bao buns. Food truck, too! BYOB. Japanese. D, $–$$ WAILUKU COFFEE COMPANY 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259 Espresso, salads, sandwiches and ice cream served in a relaxed and eclectic setting. Coffee Shop. B, L, $

UPCOUNTRY GRANDMA’S COFFEE HOUSE 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140 The eggs Benedict and baked goods made from scratch are worth the trip. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onions. Coffee Shop. B, L, $–$$ KULAMALU FOOD TRUCK LOT Kiopa‘a St., Pukalani, (next to Upcountry Longs) An eclectic array of food trucks including vegetarian, plate lunch, açai bowls, barbecue and more. Food Truck. $-$$ LA PROVENCE 3158 L. Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313 Perfect croissants, fruit tarts, blueberry-mango scones and artisan breads baked fresh daily. Great coffee. Cash only. French/Bakery. B, L (Weds-Sun), $ LUMERIA’S WOODEN CRATE 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579-8877 Fresh, locally caught fish and healthy fare highlight a menu that changes daily. Produce grown on site is the foundation for many dishes at this charming retreat. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R, $$–$$$$

MAUIWINE 14815 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 8786058 Enjoy wine tastings and light fare in the openair lānai. Immaculate grounds surrounding the wine tasting room are perfect for a picnic. Winery. L, $-$$ NUKA 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939 Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Creative lunch and dinner specials. Save room for black-sesame or green-tea ice cream! Japanese. L, D, $$–$$$ O‘O FARM 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant for reservations, 667-4341 Take a tour to learn about gardening and coffee roasting. Enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven and fresh-roasted coffee. Lunch includes chicken and fish entrees, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L, R, $$$$ ULUPALAKUA RANCH STORE & GRILL 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561 Across the road from MauiWine you’ll find great deli fare, lamb burgers with tzatziki, and beef or grass-fed venison burgers. Plus, homestyle chili and rice or kālua pork plate lunch. American. L, D, $ WAILUKU COFFEE CO. Aloha Aina Center., 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 868-3229 Downtown goes country with this second location, serving the same tasty salads, sandwiches, ice cream and espresso. Coffee Shop. B, L, $

NORTH SHORE CHOICE HEALTH BAR 11 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia, 661-7711 See West Side listing. FLATBREAD COMPANY 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989 Big booths, a snazzy bar scene and

organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N, $$ HANA HOU SURF CLUB 65 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 7079752. Experience the newest restaurant in Pā‘ia Town! Try a loco moco or açai bowl for breakfast, a poke bowl or burger for lunch. Open 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. International. B, L, D, $-$$$ MAMA’S FISH HOUSE 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488 Famous for its heart-stirring, beachside, windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine, Mama’s evokes old-time island hospitality. In 2018, this Maui institution became a James Beard nominee for Best Restaurant. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, R, $$–$$$$ PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030 Huge slabs of fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D, $ NYLOS 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354 Since its opening, this fine-dining restaurant has garnered rave reviews on the coconut wireless for its menu and casual ambiance. International. D, $$$

HĀNA BAREFOOT CAFE 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732 Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or mahimahi plate lunch to-go. Pacific Rim. B, L, $ THE RESTAURANT Hyatt’s Hāna-Maui Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401 Hāna-sourced fish and local produce are the basis of this original menu. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juice. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R, $$–$$$$

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar–Apr 2022

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

March–April 2022

MARCH

Teri Garrison and Andrea Walls at Java Jazz 7-10 p.m. Singer Teri Garrison teams up with classically trained violinist Andrea Walls to play a wide range of music, including jazz, pop, rock and Brazilian. 3350 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali | javajazzmaui.com | 808.667.0787 | IG @ javajazzmaui | FB @javajazzinmaui

Volunteer at Honokōwai Valley Join others in the community to help maintain and preserve the land and archeological sites in the Honokōwai Valley. 1 Pu‘ukoli‘i Rd., Lahaina | mauiculturallands.org | 808.276.5593 | IG/FB @mauiculturallands

An Evening with Jimmy Dillon and Dayan Kai 7:30 p.m. Blues master Jimmy Dillon and multi-instrumentalist Dayan Kai get together for a night of celebration and sublime harmonies. ProArts Playhouse, 1280 South Kīhei Rd., Kīhei | proartsmaui.com | 808.463.6550 | IG @proartsmaui

Maui 5K 7-10 a.m. The 11th annual Maui 5K will be a live event! Participate in the 5K or 1-mile run to raise money for our schools. The race begins and ends at the Maui Ocean Center, 192 Ma‘alaea Rd., Ma‘alaea | maui5k.org | 808.222.2484 | FB @maui5k

Spring Pops Tribute to Judy Garland 3 p.m. Sarah Uriate Berry joins the Maui Pops Orchestra for an afternoon tribute to Judy Garland. Maui Arts & Cultural Center, 1 Cameron Way, Kahului | mauiarts.org | FB @maui.arts | IG @mauiartsculture | 808.242.7469

-APRIL 16 Celebration of Hawai‘i Viewpoints Gallery presents the 17th annual Celebration of Hawai‘i, featuring artwork in a range of media done by

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March 13: Sarah Uriate Berry

artists from throughout Hawai‘i. Each piece celebrates our extraordinary islands and honors Hawaiian culture. 3620 Baldwin Ave., #101, Makawao | viewpointsgallerymaui.com | 808.572.5979 | FB @viewpointsgallery

Stephen Inglis and the Slack Key Show Ohana 6:30 p.m George Kahumoku Jr. and J.J. Jerome perform live with guitarist Stephen Inglis, one of the most diverse artists in Hawai‘i today. Napili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili | slackkeyshow.com | 808.669.3858 | IG @slackkeyshow | FB @georgekahumokujr

APRIL

The Devon Allman Project 7:30 p.m. Experience this world-class band led by Blues Music Award-winning musician Devon Allman as they play the songs of the Allman brothers, Devon’s originals and surprise covers. The performance also features a “liquid light show.” Maui Arts & Cultural Center, 1 Cameron Way, Kahului | mauiarts.org | 808.242.7469 | FB @maui.arts | IG @mauiartsculture

-30 The Art of Trash Exhibition and Trashion Show Mālama Maui Nui presents this annual event, where artists and designers reimagine previously used materials to create art pieces and ready-to-wear clothing and accessories. malamamauinui.org | IG @malama_maui_nui | FB @artoftrash or @malamamauinui

-JUNE 26 O Kalani This show features the work of two Native Hawaiian artists: Sean K.L. Browne, who portrays legendary figures in contemporary ways, and Imaikalani Kalahele, who takes an interdisciplinary approach. Maui Arts & Cultural Center, 1 Cameron Way, Kahului | mauiarts.org | 808.242.2787 | FB @maui.arts | IG @mauiartsculture

Guide on Page 72 for venues featuring live music.

Coral Reef Alliance Planting Day

ONGOING EVENTS The Beach Club Lū‘au at Montage Kapalua Bay Tuesdays, 5:30-8 p.m. This intimate, culturally inspired event features Hawaiian and Tahitian performances and a Samoan fire-knife dance finale. Enjoy a welcome mai tai and a three-course feast. Reservations required. 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua | thebeachclubluau.com | 808.662.6627 Waihe‘e Coastal Dunes & Wetland Refuge Volunteer Days Fridays, 8 a.m.-12 p.m. + 3rd Saturday of each month, 8-11 a.m. Work with the Hawai‘i Land Trust to connect with nature and help with restoration, conservation and events. hilt.org | 808.744.2462 | IG/FB @hilandtrust Lahaina Arts Society Fine Art Fair Saturdays and Sundays, 9 a.m.-4 p.m. This outdoor event features local artists and live demonstrations at the Lahaina Cannery Mall, 1221 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Lahaina | lahainacannerymall.com | 808.661.5304 | IG @lahainacannery | FB @lahainacannerymall Friday Night is Art Night Fridays, 5-8 p.m. Stroll around Lahaina Town to see new artwork, meet the artists and hear live music. lahainarestoration.org | 808.661.3262 | IG/FB @lahainarestoration Nighttime Tour Fridays, 5-8 p.m. Tour the historic Baldwin Home Museum by candlelight. lahainarestoration.org | 808.661.3262 | IG/FB @lahainarestoration Papa Hula Fridays, 4-5 p.m. Discover the art of hula with this free dance workshop. All ages welcome! The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea | theshopsatwailea.com | IG/FB @ theshopsatwailea

COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

March 5: Jimmy Dillon and Dayan Kai

 Check our Dining

Smokey Robinson 7:30 p.m. The legendary Motown performer makes his Maui debut. Maui Arts & Cultural Center, 1 Cameron Way, Kahului | mauiarts. org | 808.242.7469 | FB @maui.arts | IG @ mauiartsculture

IMUA Gala 5:30 p.m. Travel back in time to the Copacabana Night Club in New York City. Dance the night away with live music from Dr. Nat & Rio Ritmo, as well as Broadway star Shereen Ahmed. Funds raised support children with special needs in Maui County. Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali | imuafamily. org | 808.244.7467 | IG/FB @imuafamily

Maui Marathon 5 a.m.-2 p.m. This year marks the 50th anniversary of the Maui Marathon! Begin at the old sugar mill in Pu‘unēnē, run over the Pali and through Lahaina to finish at Kā‘anapali Beach Resort. There are also a half-marathon, 10K, 5K and a newly added marathon relay. mauimarathon. com | 808.222.2484 | IG/FB @mauimarathonhi Advertisers: Want your function or event to be included? Email calendar@mauimagazine.net or submit online at mauimagazine.net/mauievents. Include the event name, description, date/ time, website, photos (300 dpi) and social media handles. Submissions for the May–June 2022 issue must be received by March 10. Entries edited for content and space.

April 3-30: The Art of Trash Exhibition and Trashion Show

April 2: Devon Allman Project Ongoing: Mahjong at the Wo Hing Museum (right)

COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

ONGOING EVENTS

April 3-June 26: O Kalani, featuring Kane I Ka Malamalama, by Sean K.L. Browne

Coral Reef Alliance Planting Day 2nd Saturday of each month, 8:30 a.m.-12 p.m. Help plant native species to reduce erosion and protect West Maui’s coral reefs. Snacks and water provided. Kahekili Beach Park, 65 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali | coral.org | 808.633.6029 | IG @coral_org | FB @coralreefalliance Mahjong at the Wo Hing Museum 2nd and 4th Tuesday of each month, 10 a.m.-12 p.m. Play this traditional Chinese game in the shade of the star fruit tree. All levels welcome. Game sets provided. 858 Front St., Lahaina | lahainarestoration. org | 808.661.3262 Night Grooves LGBT 2nd Thursday of each month, 9 p.m. Enjoy a night of diversity, and jam to the tunes of DJ PlaywFire Ono and DJ Jodie Jonson at Da Playground Maui, 300 Ma‘alaea Rd., Ma‘alaea | daplaygroundmaui.com | 808.727.2571 | IG/FB @daplaygroundmaui

Trivia at Down the Hatch Sundays, 8 p.m. Put your knowledge to the test in a fun-filled night in an iconic Maui bar. Win amazing prizes! 658 Front St., Lahaina | dthmaui. com | 808.661.4900 | IG/FB @dthmaui Family Painting Class Sundays, 2-4:30 p.m. Follow along step-by-step to create the painting of the day. Ages 8 and up. No experience necessary! Island Art Party, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei | islandartparty. com | 808.419.6020 | IG @islandartparty Maui Bee Tour and Honey Tasting Mon-Fri, 9 a.m., 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. Join an experienced beekeeper and explore the internal workings of honeybee hives. Taste honey direct from the comb, and pair it with delicious cheeses. 700 Punakea Loop, Lahaina | mauibeetour.com | 808.793.4660 | IG/FB @mauibeetour Open Mic Night Mondays, 7-10 p.m. Showcase your talent at the Aumakua Kava Lounge, 149 Hāna Hwy., Pa‘ia | aumakuakava.com | 808.793.3232

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Mar-Apr 2022

PAU HANA

When Home Is Not a House

Story by Tom Stevens Illustration by Guy Junker

In 2011, we asked writer Tom Stevens to recall an earlier, simpler Maui, when businesses (even the gas stations) closed on Sunday, women wore mu‘umu‘u on Aloha Friday (translation: every Friday), and 100 folks or more would gather for a first-birthday lū‘au. Maui has changed a lot since then, but not entirely — if you know where in the boonies to look. On Maui, the workaday world where people live in houses and go to jobs exists alongside a more precarious one whose people live where they can and do what they want. I first became aware of this alternate existance in 1976 when I fell out of a marriage and landed at Gecko Mecca, a sprawling hippie house at Waiehu Beach. Among the many characters who dwelt there were a photographer who lived in a wood shop, a playwright who lived in a gazebo and a yoga couple who lived in a tree. I met the yogis on my first day as a Gecko Meccan, and they forever changed my assumption that people were supposed to wear clothing and live indoors. I was walking toward the house along a sandy forest path

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when I heard a series of chuffing blasts, like a yesteryear locomotive leaving the station. As the backyard came into view, I beheld a magnificent, unclad, Edenic-looking couple posed side by side, inhaling and expelling great “fire breaths” with fierce Dionysian joy. Amazed, I sought out the playwright in his gazebo. “The couple in the yard,” I said. “Do they rent a room here?” “No, they don’t live indoors,” he replied. “They have a platform in the trees.” Starting with Mākena in the 1960s, tree dwellers have a long and illustrious history on Maui, but they are not alone in the alternate-housing cohort I call “the adapters.” Like hermit crabs, successful adapters can conform to nearly any dwelling space, and I’ve known several Mauians who lived quite happily in trees, caves, yurts, teepees, tack sheds, camper vans and Matson shipping containers. While these situations confer a sort of frontier machismo, most Maui adapters eventually weary of the mildew and mosquitoes and long for more traditional homes of their own. For those without trust funds, the

time-honored route has been to buy a lot and then slowly, lovingly, painstakingly erect a house. It’s through this process that adapters evolve into “recyclers.” As resourceful as bowerbirds, recyclers fan out over the island each day, seeking materials, furnishings and building supplies others have discarded or overlooked. I had friends who salvaged the hardwood timbers from a dismantled sawmill ramp in Kahului and used them to build two homes and an art studio. Another group dismantled a WWII barracks at Kahului Airport by hand, recovering enough finish-grade lumber to build a complete jungle village in “Hanavana.” Such recycling feats are legion on Maui, where big construction projects, secondhome remodels and hotel decor renewals create a Niagra of surplus materials and furnishings. Between the coconut wireless and the brotherhood of the building trades, every useful discard soon finds a willing recycler and a new adoptive home. Maui recyclers who stay at it long enough to complete their own homes may eventually join the most elite cohort, the “converters” — landowners who had just enough kālā (money) to finish the house, but not enough to build the ‘ohana unit that pays the mortgage. Enter: the empty water tank. Kitted out with sash windows and Dutch doors, Maui’s mineral-cured, antique hardwood water tanks can be transformed into rental units as charming as a hobbit house. Other conversions I’ve seen include refurbished farm buildings, dry-docked boats, retired school buses, old wine vats, even circus trailers. My favorite was an old train caboose that became a quaint rental unit in Kula. However, the progression from adapter to recycler to converter is not an easy one, and it’s definitely not for everybody. The yoga couple, for instance, left their treehouse ... and moved into a cave.

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Maui’s Most Authentic Lū‘au Reservations & Preferred Seating (808)758-4773 www.MauisFinestLuau.com