MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI MAGAZINE
The Sustainability Issue
MARCH-APRIL 2022
The Hawaiian Archipelago M AU I M AG A Z I N E . N E T
VOL 26 / NO. 2
VOL 26 NO. 2 US/CAN $4.95
EXPLORING OUR KŪPUNA ISLANDS
VOLUNTOURISM The latest trend in travel POLIPOLI FARMS Looking back to move ahead SUN’S OUT, BUNS OUT Maui’s best burgers REEF-SAFE SUNSCREEN What you need to know LIVING PONO An ecofriendly Ha‘ikū home
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Cover: Photographer and conservationist Zach Pezzillo captured this flock of noio kōhā (brown noddies) soaring over the lagoon at Hōlanikū (Kure Atoll).
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ADVENTURE PAYING IT FORWARD Voluntourism is the latest trend in travel. Here’s how you can do your part to mālama (care for) Maui. By Sarah Ruppenthal
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HAWAIIAN SOUL FINDING THEIR ROOTS This local farming couple is looking to the past to protect the future. By Rita Goldman
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MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA THE HALEAKALĀ CONSERVANCY A new nonprofit is bridging the gap between community and the crater. By Lara McGlashan
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ISLAND PORTRAIT OUR KŪPUNA ISLANDS The Hawaiian archipelago consists of more than just the five most familiar islands. Learn more about this remarkable marine preserve. By Teya Penniman
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AT HOME LIVING PONO Take a look inside this ecofriendly Ha‘ikū home where nature meets design. By Lara McGlashan
A fuzzy Laysan albatross chick cozies up to a derelict fishing net on one of the islands in Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument. Island Portrait, p. 46
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
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CONTRIBUTORS It takes a lot of talent to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.
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PUBLISHER’S NOTE By Diane Haynes Woodburn
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TAG, WE’RE IT! A shoutout to our IG fans who get social.
Dining
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TALK STORY Tales of Hawai‘i fresh off the coconut wireless. By Savy Janssen & Lara McGlashan
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ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Looking for something to do? Here’s what’s happening on Maui.
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PAU HANA WHEN HOME IS NOT A HOUSE By Tom Stevens
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FEATURE A TREE, A TRIO & A TREAT Experience seaside dining at its finest at Māla Ocean Tavern.
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DINING HIGHLIGHTS SUN’S OUT, BUNS OUT After a thorough taste test, we’ve determined the best burgers on Maui.
Stories by Becky Speere
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MIXOLOGY JUNGLE JUICE Feeling mischievous? Make yourself a Cheeky Monkey, recipe courtesy of Tommy Bahama restaurant.
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DINING GUIDE Hungry? Check out this short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island.
Head to The Marlin Bar in Lahaina to try this Whisky Ginger Smash. Better yet, check out the new book The Marlin Bar, Cocktails With Tommy Bahama, and look up the Cheeky Monkey, dining editor Becky Speere’s favorite Marlin Bar beverage. Mixology, p.70
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TOMMY BAHAMA
Departments
MASTHEAD
There’s a saying known in the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too. Publisher Diane Haynes Woodburn Group Publisher Michael Haynes Creative Director John Giordani
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Rita Goldman, Savy Janssen, Lara McGlashan, Teya Penniman, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere, Tom Stevens
Editor-in-Chief Lara McGlashan CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
EDITORIAL
Consulting Editor Rita Goldman Dining Editor Becky Speere Website Manager Adelle Lennox Digital Media Contributor Tori Speere
Olena Horcajo Alec, Denisse Allaire, Bob Bangerter, John Burns, Rob Farrell Greg McFall, Zach Pezzillo, RM Shutterworks, Ryan Siphers, Heidi Speno, Forest & Kim Starr, Crisy Teil, Alex Wang, Sarah Witas CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR Guy Junker E-MAIL: Info@MauiMagazine.net
MARKETING & ADVERTISING
Sales Manager Brooke Tadena Sales Associate Benjamin Barreras Advertising Sales (808) 242-8331
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Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi, an environmental leader whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.
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CONTRIBUTORS
BR I N G H AWA I ‛ I HOM E .
Fine Art, Sculpture & Glasswork
Here are some of the folks who make our magazine nō ka ‘oi (the best).
Sarah Ruppenthal is an award-winning journalist and freelance writer. Her stories have appeared in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, The Honolulu Star-Advertiser and The Maui News, among others. When she’s not working on a story, Ruppenthal can be found relaxing at home on Maui’s north shore with her husband, Matt.
Since 2007, professional photographer Ryan Siphers (whom we are pleased to have worked with for nearly a decade!) has enjoyed working, playing and raising his family on Maui. His job enables him to explore amazing landscapes, meet interesting people and visit gorgeous homes. ryansiphersphotography.com
Adventure (p.30)
At Home (p.52)
Of Rita Goldman’s numerous writing awards, she’s proudest of the Hawai‘i Book Publishers Association’s 2004 Ka Palapala Po‘okela Award of Excellence for her pictorial history Every Grain of Rice: Portraits of Maui’s Japanese Community, written on behalf of the Nisei Veterans Memorial Center.
Teya Penniman’s passion for protecting wild places has taken her around the world as a reporter at international meetings on the environment. Penniman’s story about the Hawaiian archipelago arose from her commitment to marine conservation and her deep respect for Hawaiian culture.
Hawaiian Soul (p.34)
Island Portrait (p.46)
Ceramics, Furniture & Hawaiian Crafts
Unique Jewelry, Home Goods & More
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Professional photographer and Maui native Zach Pezzillo has a deep appreciation for Hawai‘i’s native species and rich biodiversity. He became interested in conservation in 2014, and since then he has worked with Maui’s endangered forest birds and spent two winters living and working on Hōlanikū (Kure Atoll) in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands. Currently, Pezzillo works for Maui’s plant extinction prevention program, an organization that focuses on saving endangered native species, some of which have fewer than 50 individuals left in existence. Island Portrait (p.46)
PUBLISHER’S NOTE
Love, Laugh & Live Pono
A hui hou,
Diane Haynes Woodburn, Publisher
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MIEKO HORIKOSHI
After a flurry of last-minute crises and a mishmash of disorganized packing, I am finally off, boarding a plane to join our friends in Steamboat Springs, Colorado, for our annual sojourn to the snow. We have been taking this trip together for decades. We ski, take walks, do yoga, cook meals, drink too much wine, and laugh a lot. Over the years, the laughing has become more important than than the skiing (and a lot easier), and our shared history, our memories, are the foundation upon which we move forward together and mark time. Many years ago, Native Hawaiian historian Senator Kalani English told me that in order to move forward, you must understand the past. “Time is meaningless without orientation,” he explained. “Finding the ancient connections within ourselves is the key to finding the future.” This sentiment rings particularly true in the story “Our Kūpuna Islands,” by Teya Penniman. The Hawaiian archipelago is more than the five islands we know best; it is actually a collection of more than 130 islands, atolls and shoals stretching more than 1,600 miles across the Pacific. Hawaiians call these Na Mokupuni Na Kūpuna, “The Islands of the Ancestors.” Those found northernmost are more than 7 million years old, blips in the sea that grow increasingly larger and higher as you travel southeast, marking the millennia until you reach the newly forming seamount, Kama‘ehuakanaloa, just beyond Hawai‘i Island. What is old is once again new as this nascent volcano reaches for the surface, perpetuating the basaltic cycle of rise and fall. One day it, too, will be home to new species of plants and animals, as have all the kūpuna (ancestor) islands that came before. While sustainability doesn’t have to go back millennia, practices of the past often inspire the present. In “Finding Their Roots,” by Rita Goldman, we are reintroduced to our former managing editor, Lehia Apana. She and husband Brad Bayless left the corporate world to become farmers, and found their calling in agroforestry. Hawai‘i once sustained a population similar to that of today and was completely self-sufficient. Today, however, we import more than 85 percent of our food, and Lehia and Brad are committed to applying the wisdom of their Hawaiian ancestors to their farming practices in the hopes that they may support Maui’s food security in the future. Did you know that sustainability also has a flavor? In “A Tree, a Trio & a Treat,” dining editor Becky Speere writes about her experience at Māla Ocean Tavern, a venue which has recently garnered accolades due in large part to executive chef Alvin Savella. Born and raised on Maui, chef Savella honors his past by serving traditional dishes made with locally sourced produce, fish and beef. New tongues taste this history, and in doing so perpetuate its significance. If you’re the kind of reader who wants to dig in with both hands, don’t miss “Pay it Forward,” our story on the latest trend in travel, voluntourism. Mindful visitors can gift their time in a meaningful way, giving back to the island they love by volunteering to, say, clean up a local beach, plant native species or simply take a shelter dog out for a day of fun. We have a long way to go before we are once again self-sufficient, but every day we make progress, whether it’s preserving our culture, conserving our wildlife or implementing ancient farming techniques. We need each other to stay connected, to laugh and to be healthy, and we need to honor the wisdom of our past in order to sustain our future. My plane lands and I make the trek to our condo. Even before I open the door, I hear laughter and know my friends have already gathered. Suddenly, I feel renewed, and as I swing open the door, am received with shouts of joy and open arms. There is indeed more than one kind of sustainability.
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TAG, WE’RE IT
Our readers are as obsessed with Maui as we are. We see you out there, exploring the island and snapping those Insta-worthy shots. Follow us on Instagram @MauiMag, tag #LoveMauiMag and we’ll share some of our favorite posts in each issue.
@georgewbryan “Waiting for the perfect wave!”
@lillieonthego “Went in for the flower, stayed for the lizard.”
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@mrod_maui “Early morning in Hawai‘i Nei.”
@bencaswellphotography “Spread your fins and fly.”
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TALK STORY
Fresh off the coconut wireless
Save Your Skin – and Maui’s Sea Life
Story by Savy Janssen
to these chemicals experience reproductive issues, mutations, brain damage and other life-threatening problems. Coral polyps are animals, too, and nanoparticles that accumulate on their surfaces damage their DNA and exoskeleton, and inhibit their growth. The particles also react with sunlight, creating hydrogen peroxide, which then bleaches the coral and causes it to reject its symbiotic phytoplankton, the microscopic algae that live on the coral’s tissues and serve as a vital source of nutrition. Bleached coral is vulnerable to infection, and has a lower chance of recovery or survival. Coral reefs protect our coastline, breaking the impact of waves and helping prevent erosion while also allowing the intertidal animals and plants to survive. Fortunately, Hawai‘i is taking steps to protect these
important ecosystems: In 2018, the state banned sunscreen containing oxybenzone and octinoxate, and beginning on October 1, 2022, a new ordinance will ban the sale, distribution and use of non-mineral sunscreens in Maui County waters. Putting a ban in place will call attention to this sensitive issue, but we still have to do our part. First, beware of false claims: The terms “reef-safe” and “reef-friendly” are not regulated, so read the list of ingredients carefully before purchasing a product. Second, avoid products containing dangerous chemicals, and purchase those with ingredients such as non-nano zinc oxide, non-nano titanium oxide and beeswax. Local brands like Kokua and Raw Love Sunscreen are great options, as are Raw Elements, Olita, 365 Everyday Value and Hawaiian Sol.
GRAPHIC COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL OCEANIC AND ATMOSPHERIC ADMINISTRATION
Clear blue water, white-sand beaches, delicate corals and a rainbow of fish — Maui’s waters offer a wealth of natural treasures. The ocean is free for all to enjoy, but it pays a high price when we humans disrupt its fragile ecosystem. The National Park Service estimates that 6,000 tons of sunscreen enter coral-reef systems around the world each year, and common ingredients such as octinoxate, octocrylene and oxybenzone wreak havoc on marine life. During manufacturing, these chemicals are broken into nanoparticles that make the sunscreen easier to apply without coating the skin with a layer of white grease. But these nanoparticles also do the most damage. According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, fish, sea urchins, dolphins and other animals exposed
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TALK STORY
Integrative Sustainability For hundreds of years, despite its remote location on the planet, Hawai‘i was self-sustaining. “Everyone had a common understanding of the goal and knew their role, and that made for a successful and sustainable community,” says Jonathan Stenger, analyst for Kamehameha Schools. But in this day and age, it’s not that simple, and solving one problem often creates others. Take traffic, for example: in order to alleviate congestion, one solution is to widen the roads. But this can lead to unintended consequences, such as destroying more of Maui’s natural habitat and generating runoff into streams and oceans. Easier access also can mean more visitors — and even more traffic. While there have been many initiatives launched on Maui, progress is often slow. According to the Hulihia Center for Sustainable Systems, instead of treating the symptoms of a problem, it’s imperative to determine its root cause. Hulihia, which means “complete change” in Hawaiian, was launched by the University of Hawai‘i Maui College in partnership with Kamehameha Schools. The Center uses academic
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UNIVERSITY OF HAWAI‘I MAUI COLLEGE
Story by Lara McGlashan
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