MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI MAGAZINE
Big Art in Wailuku
MAY-JUNE 2022
MAUI’S BEST BEACHES From sunup to sundown MĀKENA MODERN A bold, seaside home 5 MUST-TRY RESTAURANTS The short & savory list STAYCATION, LAHAINA STYLE Two nights of dining & dreaming
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M AU I M AG A Z I N E . N E T
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Cover: Photographer Daniel Sullivan captured this aerial shot of scalloped sea and sand at Oneloa — aka Big Beach — in Mākena.
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ISLAND BUSINESS TRUE TO THEIR ROOTS Believe it or not, ‘Āina Brands came about because of a really bad cup of coffee. By Sarah Ruppenthal
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MAUI STYLE MAUI’S BEST BEACHES — SUNUP TO SUNDOWN These five beaches offer a bevy of activities for a perfect day of sea and sand. By Kyle Ellison
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HAWAIIAN SOUL PAINTING THE TOWN A sophisticated art series has transformed Wailuku into an openair gallery. By Shannon Wianecki
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AT HOME MĀKENA MODERN This Bauhaus-inspired dwelling makes a bold statement on Maui’s south shore. By Matthew Thayer
Part of the Small Town * Big Art project, this colorful mural, “Return to the Source,” was created by local artist Cory Kamehanaokalā Holt Taum. Hawaiian Soul, p. 44
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MIEKO HORIKOSHI
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
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CONTRIBUTORS It takes a lot of talent to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.
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PUBLISHER’S NOTE By Diane Haynes Woodburn
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TAG, WE’RE IT! Here’s a shoutout to our IG fans who get social.
Dining
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TALK STORY Tales of Hawai‘i fresh off the coconut wireless. By Lara McGlashan, Diane Woodburn & Savy Janssen
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ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Looking for something to do? Here’s what’s happening on Maui.
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PAU HANA MADDAHS AN’ SUNS By Tita
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Stories by Becky Speere
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FEATURE AN ISLAND OASIS Two days of dining and dreaming at one of Lahaina’s historic landmarks is the perfect getaway.
MIXOLOGY TIGER BALM This celebratory cocktail from the Fairmont Kea Lani Resort will make you roar.
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DINING GUIDE Hungry? Check out this short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island.
HIGHLIGHTS THE SHORT & SAVORY LIST Need a snack before dinner? These five must-visit venues have just the pūpū for you.
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Broiled herb-glazed roma tomatoes with capers and olive oil from Lahaina Grill will whet your appetite. Dining Feature, p. 62
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MIEKO HORIKOSHI
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MASTHEAD
There’s a saying known in the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too. Publisher Diane Haynes Woodburn
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Kathy Collins, Kyle Ellison, Savy Janssen, Lara McGlashan, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere, Matthew Thayer, Shannon Wianecki
Group Publisher Michael Haynes Creative Director John Giordani
Editor-in-Chief Lara McGlashan CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Bob Bangerter, Bryan Berkowitz, Ron Dahlquist, John Giordani, Mieko Horikoshi, Sean Michael Hower, Andrew Shoemaker, Ryan Siphers, Daniel Sullivan, Mark Sullivan
EDITORIAL
Consulting Editor Rita Goldman Dining Editor Becky Speere Website Manager Adelle Lennox Digital Media Contributor Tori Speere
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CONTRIBUTORS
BR I N G H AWA I ‛ I HOM E .
One-of-a-Kind Artwork & Sculpture
Here are some of the folks who make our magazine nō ka ‘oi (the best).
Kyle Ellison is the author of Moon Handbooks Maui: Including Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i. His work has appeared in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, Travel + Leisure, The San Francisco Chronicle, Escape, Journey, Hana Hou! and Hawai‘i Magazine. Ellison lives in Kula with his wife and three sons. @gooutsideandexplore Maui Style (p.34)
Named the Best Independent Journalist by the Society of Professional Journalists, Hawai‘i Chapter, Shannon Wianecki has traveled to Iceland, the South Pacific and all points in between on reporting trips. She is extremely grateful to those who have generously allowed her to tell their stories. @swianecki Hawaiian Soul (p.44)
An artist with a love for nostalgia, Matt Foster is inspired by nature, foreign cultures and the quest for simplicity. He believes that curiosity, play and discovery are key to creativity, and finds inspiration while cycling in Kyoto, Japan, where he and his wife currently live. artistproof58.com
Born and raised in Japan, photographer Mieko Horikoshi moved to Maui in 1994. She discovered her love of food photography while spending time in the kitchen raising her two young daughters. miekophotography.com | society6.com/ lilikoimaui | @miekoskitchen Hawaiian Soul
Pau Hana (p.82)
(p.44) & Dining Feature (p.62)
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For his book Maui: Mauka to Makai, award-winning photographer Daniel Sullivan captured incredible photos of barren beaches and other unusually deserted seaside spots during the pandemic. When he’s not in his studio, Sullivan leads private photography tours. danielsullivanphotography.com | danielsullivan.tours | IG @ danielsullivangallery Cover
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© 2022 Sotheby's International Realty. All Rights Reserved. Sotheby's International Realty ® is a registered trademark and used with permission. Each Sotheby's International Realty office is independently owned and operated, except those operated by Sotheby's International Realty, Inc. All offerings are subject to errors, omissions, changes including price or withdrawal without notice. Equal Housing Opportunity.
PUBLISHER’S NOTE
Just Keep Swimming
A hui hou,
Diane Haynes Woodburn, Publisher
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MIEKO HORIKOSHI
It’s spring, the season when all thoughts turn to new life, replenishment, awakening and hope. Hawaiians have a ceremony to celebrate this sentiment called hi‘uwai. I was introduced to the ritual at the annual Celebration of the Arts by my friend, Hawaiian practioner Clifford Nae‘ole, and I fell in love with it. Just before dawn, I joined Nae‘ole and a group on the beach. It was still dark, but the call of seabirds mixing with the rhythmic sound of the shore break slowly awakened my groggy senses. Nae‘ole instructed us to think about our lives, of those who came before us, and how we are all connected. We then entered the water, some fully, some offering just a toe — how much of your person got wet didn’t matter. What did matter was our collective faith in the power of renewal. That experience reminds me of another trial by water, not quite as contemplative, but perhaps just as profound. Long ago, I hiked the Nāpili coast of Kaua‘i by myself, all the way to the Kalalau Valley. It was a self-test of grit — or maybe foolishness; 48 years later, it’s still hard to tell the difference. At Kalalau, I met other young adventurers on similar quests. Three of them, two guys and a girl, somehow convinced me we should swim around the farthest point of Kalalau to the next beach over, Honopū. Honopū is the epitome of remote. It’s flanked on both sides by sheer canyon walls, and it’s against the law to land there with any sort of seafaring craft. The ocean along that stretch of coast is notoriously rough. But with youth and folly on our side, and the assurance that we’d have the beach and valley all to ourselves, we decided to go for it. It was agreed that the boys would swim out first to test the current, and once they felt it was safe, would give us the sign to join. We all shed our swimsuits (because why not?) and the boys jumped in. Soon, they were mere dots bobbing beyond the menacing break. The girl and I looked at each other and dove in. Keep your head down and swim hard! I told myself. When I finally made it beyond the breakers and popped up, I saw I was alone; my swim mate had retreated back to shore. Far ahead, the boys were treading water, waiting for me. Should I go back or continue? I chose to continue. I joined the boys and together we continued around the point. It was a long, arduous swim and my elation at seeing the shore was quickly quashed by the sight of the immense, crashing waves we would have to navigate in order to reach the beach. I can honestly say that I swam for my life until I finally tumbled to shore, dumped unceremoniously on the sand by an enormous swell. I stood up, faced the ocean and looked out from this remote edge of the Earth, triumphant at being one of the very few people to arrive on this hidden beach. Or was I? As I turned, I saw a middle-aged couple, fully clothed, with a large picnic basket and a big spread of food. (I would later find out that they had chartered a helicopter to drop them here in this private paradise.) They stopped mid-bite and stared at me. “Hello,” I said, wearing nothing but a shy smile and a sheen of salt water. Slowly, the man extended his hand and offered me an apple. I’ll never forget that swim, not knowing if I was strong enough to make it, but absolutely committed to trying. I shake my head in wonder when I remember those days, and yet, in retrospect, times haven’t changed all that much — jumping into dangerous, deep water and pushing forward with your head down succinctly sums up our collective swim of the last two years. And although there still may be a few tumblers ahead, I’m willing to bet there’s also some warm, golden sand. Whether your style is to blindly jump in, or to simply test the water with your toes, I hope you find your perfect beach — perhaps even in these pages — and your own sense of renewal. And don't forget to pack an extra apple. You never know who may drop in.
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@jenniferashleyreedphoto Colorful Kīhei Kalama Village
@traviskeahi ‘I‘iwi party in a māmane tree in Hosmer Grove, Haleakalā National Park
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TALK STORY
Fresh off the coconut wireless
Monk Seals
Years ago, on one of my first visits to Maui, I stopped at Ho‘okipa to watch the surfers, but as I made my way down the hillside, I saw a large, dark shape on the beach — a happily napping monk seal. At the time, I had no idea what a rare and special occurrence that was; I have not seen a seal on land since. Hawai‘i has the disconcerting notoriety of being the extinction capital of the world, and monk seals are dangerously close to making that list. Hunting almost did away with them in the late 19th century, and today, there are only about 1,400 left. Endemic to the Islands, the monk seal is the official state mammal of Hawai‘i. Hawaiians call them ‘īlioholoikauaua, which means “dog running in the rough seas.” The folds of skin around their necks resemble the cowl of a monk’s hood, hence their English moniker. Monk seals spend more than two-thirds
of their lives in the water. When submerged, their heart rate drops, reducing their need for oxygen and allowing them to stay under for up to 20 minutes. The other third of their lives is spent on land, sleeping, nursing or molting. “Once a year, monk seals undergo a ‘catastrophic molt,’ where they shed the top layer of their skin and fur,” says Michelle Barbieri, Ph.D., lead scientist for the NOAA Hawaiian monk seal research program. Mothers deliver a single pup, and the pair stays on the beach for about six weeks to nurse. During this time, the pup can gain up to 175 pounds! Threats to monk seals include food limitation, shark predation, habitat loss, entanglement and especially toxoplasmosis, a parasite spread by cat feces. But thanks to NOAA and its partners, not all is lost. “The monk seal population has been increasing 2 percent per year for the last
Story by Lara McGlashan
decade,” says Barbieri. “In fact, 30 percent of the current population is alive today thanks to our recovery actions.” You can help, too. “Monk seals have one of the highest entanglement rates of any pinniped species, so participate in beach cleanups whenever possible,” says Barbieri. When fishing, use barbless circle hooks, reel in your line if seals are present, and reuse or share your leftover bait (don’t feed it to the seals). And most of all, do not feed any of the feral cats in Hawai‘i. If you’re lucky enough to see a seal, keep your distance. “Follow the ‘rule of thumb’ to figure out how much space to give them,” says Barbieri. “Make a thumbs-up gesture, extend your arm straight out and turn your thumb parallel to the ground. If it covers the entire seal, you are far enough away.” To report a monk-seal sighting, call the NOAA Pacific Islands Marine Wildlife Hotline at 888.256.9840.
A juvenile Hawaiian monk seal snoozes happily on Tern Island in Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument. (The seal was photographed for NOAA using a zoom lens.)
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MARK SULLIVAN, NOAA FISHERIES HAWAIIAN MONK SEAL RESEARCH PROGRAM
species on the brink
COMING SOON TO WAILEA VILLAGE! 1111NIKKEI.COM
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Waterman Hall of Fame inductee Michael Spalding grins at the camera, completely in his element. Inset: On his second attempt in 2011, Spalding crossed the Alenuihāhā Channel.
TALK STORY → day
in the life
A Life Aquatic We go. This local saying loosely translates to, no questions, no excuses, no regrets, just … go. It’s also the perfect narrative for Maui’s local legend Michael Spalding. Because if there’s water involved, Spalding will go, and after 40 years of going, he was inducted into the Hawai‘i Waterman Hall of Fame. This honor is bestowed upon select men and women within Hawai‘i’s water-sport community who perpetuate the spirit of our most famous waterman and global ambassador of aloha, Duke Kahanamoku, and whose lifetime of contributions inspire and perpetuate the unique connection between the Hawaiian people and the ocean. Suffice it to say, Spalding more than epitomizes this standard. Part of an old kama‘āina (local) family, Spalding grew up on O‘ahu immersed in tradition, culture and history. His love for all things Hawaiian and his mischievous passion for adventure meant that all roads led to the sea. “If the ocean is at your doorstep, you’ve got to take advantage of it,” Spalding says.
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Story by Diane Woodburn & Savy Janssen
In true waterman style, Spalding partook of everything the ocean offered up, including surfing, freediving, spearfishing and bodysurfing. He is an avid sailor and paddler, as well as a former Junior Olympic water polo champion. But Spalding is best known for his prowess as a swimmer. To date, he is the only man to have swum all nine channels between the major Hawaiian Islands, including the seven-mile ‘Alalākeiki Channel between Maui and Kaho‘olawe in 2001, and the 26-mile Kaiwi Channel from Moloka‘i to O‘ahu in 2007. In 2008, Spalding attempted to swim the Alenuihāhā Channel, a treacherous stretch of water between Hawai‘i Island and Maui — but nature had other plans. “Ten miles into the swim, I was bitten in the chest by a cookiecutter shark,” he says. “As I climbed into the support kayak, I was bitten again in the leg.” Though it’s only about 20 inches long, a cookiecutter is all mouth, and this attacker stole away with a sizeable chunk of Spalding’s upper calf. Three years later, Spalding was ready to try again. This time, with only six miles left, he was stung by a Portuguese man o’ war. Despite severe stomach cramps and leg
spasms, Spalding pushed through and became the fourth-ever person to complete the 42-mile swim. There is much, much more to say about this incredible athlete. Spalding was part of a relay team that completed the only successful swim across the 72-mile Ka‘ie‘ie Waho Channel from O‘ahu to Kaua‘i. He participated in 23 Moloka‘i Hoe canoe races, and was a member of the Hawaiian Outrigger Canoe Voyaging Society that traveled from one end of the Hawaiian Archipelago to the other, covering some 1,500 miles of open ocean in several stages. Spalding also completed a 40-mile double crossing relay of the English Channel, and now, at 74, he’s seriously considering entering a six-person relay across New Zealand’s Cook Strait. “That will have challenges — big fish, cold water — and it will take some training … but there is nothing you can’t accomplish if you prepare properly and put your mind to it,” he says. Accolades aside, Spalding lives aloha and instills in others his contagious love for the ocean. He established a scholarship fund for disadvantaged children in Fiji, and serves on many boards in Hawai‘i. He would often pack up his own family in their kayaks or catamaran and sail to some of the remotest places in the Hawaiian Islands, Fiji and New Guinea to camp, and is always game to take kids and friends on similar oceanic adventures. “We never had escorts; we were just winging it like ancient Hawaiians did,” he says. Spalding’s love of the water now spans more than four decades, and he has done it all with a perpetual smile and localboy humility. He lives every day to its fullest with grace, gratitude and no regrets. We go, a hui hou.
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Top: Support boats followed Spalding for all 40 miles of his double-crossing relay of the English Channel. Above: Friend and fellow canoe paddler Jamie Woodburn (left) looks on as Spalding displays the stinging souvenirs of his encounter with a Portuguese man o’ war after his successful Alenuihāhā Channel crossing. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2022
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True To Their Roots And to think, it all started with a really bad cup of coffee. In December of 2020, Sebastian Consiglieri admired the sunrise from his West Maui hotel room as it painted the sky in pastels. He took a sip of the coffee he’d just brewed with the hotel’s pod machine — then immediately poured it down the drain; it was terrible. He inspected the packaging and found that the coffee had been grown thousands of miles away. I’m on Maui, he thought. I should be drinking Maui-grown coffee. This sparked an idea, and he called restaurateur Martin Monteverde, a fellow Peruvian whom Consiglieri has known since childhood, and described his experience. The two mapped out a plan for ‘Āina Brands, a company that would bring locally made products to the marketplace while simultaneously honoring Hawai‘i’s land, people and culture. Step one: making delicious coffee.
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In August 2021, Consiglieri and Monteverde debuted their ‘Āina Brands Nespressocompatible pods filled with red catuaí coffee, which was grown and harvested in Kā‘anapali. Catuaí, which means “very good” in Guaraní, is known as the “cabernet of coffees” because of its hardiness and subtly sweet finish. Initial goal achieved, the duo next planned to raise crops that are not commercially grown outside of Peru. They leased 10 acres of farmland in Kula and planted two types of peppers as well as choclo, a giant Peruvian corn with stalks that can grow up to 18 feet high. Their mission was successful, and this organic, non-GMO produce will soon be available in local grocery stores — and eventually in other states. Consiglieri and Monteverde also decided to produce two unique sauces using their Maui-grown peppers: Pacific Gold Aji Amarillo
Opposite, clockwise from top left: Sourced from a 500-acre farm in West Maui, ‘Āina Brands coffee offers a uniquely rich flavor with each sip. Bottles of Pacific Gold Aji Amarillo sauce march along the assembly line at the facility at the University of Hawai‘i Maui College. Aji amarillo peppers pack a flavorful punch. Choclo, a Peruvian corn, can grow up to 18 feet high and is known for its extra-large kernels. Inset: Farmer/entrepreneur Sebastian Consiglieri (left) and chef Martin Monteverde.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF ‘ĀINA BRANDS
Story by Sarah Ruppenthal
ISLAND BUSINESS
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ISLAND BUSINESS
‘Āina Brands sauces are available at theainabrands.com, amazon.com and at the Kumu Farms Country Market at the Maui Tropical Plantation in Waikapū. theainabrands.com | 808.283.2214 | IG/FB @theainabrands 1111 Nikkei Sushi Bar, 100 Wailea Ike Drive, Wailea Village Shopping Center | 808.283.2214 | IG/FB @1111nikkeimaui
Clockwise from left: ‘Āina Brands’ aji amarillo peppers grow in Kula, where conditions are similar to those in Peru; in Spanish, “aji” means chili pepper and “amarillo” means yellow. A rendering of the new 1111 Nikkei Sushi Bar in Wailea. Panko-crusted aji amarillo shari (rice) filled with pulpo anticuchado (grilled octopus) and cheese over smoked pepper sauce.
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Listen to a podcast with publisher Diane Woodburn, Sebastian Consiglieri and Martin Monteverde as they discuss all things ‘Āina at mauimagazine.net/ podcast-aina-brands.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF ‘ĀINA BRANDS
Try this nikkei-style sushi roll with crunchy quinoa and aji amarillo tare sauce at ‘Āina Brands’ new restaurant, 1111 Nikkei Sushi Bar.
and Pacific Red. To make the sauces, they turned to the Maui Food Innovation Center at the University of Hawai‘i Maui College, which has a fully equipped food manufacturing and packaging facility, as well as a commercial kitchen, on campus. Their most recent endeavor draws on Monteverde’s restaurant experience: the creation of a Japanese-Peruvian dining venue called 1111 Nikkei Sushi Bar in Wailea. Peru has South America’s second-largest population of Japanese immigrants, also known as nikkei, and their cuisine blends Peruvian ingredients like corn, quinoa and aji amarillo peppers with Japanese cooking techniques. The first of its kind on Maui, 1111 Nikkei Sushi Bar serves up this unique fare — with ‘Āina Brands’ locally grown peppers featuring prominently on the menu. ‘Āina Brands products have proven financially successful, but Consiglieri and Monteverde have an ulterior motive: to help the community. Consiglieri first visited Maui in 2009 and instantly fell in love with the island and its residents. Since then, he has looked for ways to give back to the place that captured his heart. After the launch of ‘Āina Brands, he was even more determined to make a difference, and started searching for a Maui-based, kid-focused organization to support. He ultimately chose Imua Family Services, a nonprofit that helps support special-needs children and their families. “This cause is very close to my heart,” says Consiglieri. “It is also locally run and managed, and 100 percent of their assistance stays in Maui County.” ‘Āina Brands now donates 10 percent of its profits to Imua. “We love this community,” Consiglieri says. “People here are so welcoming, so willing to help one another. That’s what motivates us to keep coming up with new ideas and new ways to give back.”
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MAUI STYLE
BEST BEACH FOR AN EARLY-MORNING STROLL SUGAR BEACH, KEĀLIA
MAUI’S BEST BEACHES
(-^)SUNUP TO (^-)SUNDOWN
More than 60 beaches hug Maui’s coastline, including four that have been named “Best Beach in America” by environmental scientist and author Steven “Dr. Beach” Leatherman. Choosing which stretch of sand to visit is an inviting tropical challenge, and it could take months — or even years — to leave your footprints on all of them. Here’s a starter kit of beaches we recommend for the attractions they offer — from sunup to sundown. Story by Kyle Ellison
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JOHN GIORDANI
How long is this sandy crescent along Mā‘alaea Bay? The exact length is up for debate (it runs into other named beaches near its southern end in Kīhei), but it’s safe to say you could walk a 5K without having to turn around. Early mornings are quiet and still, and in the soft, pastel light of dawn, when the sun is rising from behind Haleakalā and casting shadows on the shoreline, there are few places more scenic for a stroll than here on Maui’s longest unbroken beach. Mā‘alaea Bay is one of the island’s best places for spotting whales in winter. Honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) hang out here, too, napping peacefully on the sand, unperturbed by the teams of outrigger-canoe paddlers who stroke in unison offshore. The northern terminus is in Mā‘alaea, with parking at Haycraft Park, but you also can begin in Kīhei by Sugar Beach Resort, or in the middle by Keālia Boardwalk. Runner-up: Kahekili Beach Park, Kā‘anapali
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BEST BEACH FOR A MIDMORNING SNORKEL ULUA BEACH, WAILEA
Maui has dozens of beaches with spectacular snorkeling, but this Wailea enclave stands out for its ease of access, protected conditions and wealth of colorful marine life. Ulua’s amenities include showers and restrooms, as well as free public parking; spaces are limited, though, so try to get there before 10 a.m., and enjoy snorkeling in pristine conditions before the wind picks up. No parking? No worries. You also can reach Ulua on foot along the Wailea Coastal Walk, which borders the oceanfront hotels. The best snorkel spot is around the lava-rock headland that separates Ulua from Mōkapu Beach just below the Andaz Maui Resort. Here, turquoise uhu (parrotfish) crunch on vibrant corals, and schools of manini (convict tang) dart through holes in the reef. Also, keep an eye out for honu, hīhīmanu (spotted eagle rays) and he‘e (octopus). The water may be rough when the wind is coming from the north (more common in winter), or when the summer surf is high enough to generate an advisory. But that’s just a few days per year, and the rest are downright gorgeous. Runner-up: Nāpili Bay, Nāpili
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RON DAHLQUIST / INSET L-R: DAVID RAVETTI, PEGGY HUGHES
MAUI STYLE
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MAUI STYLE
BEST BEACH FOR BOOGIE BOARDING & LUNCH HONOKAHUA BAY, KAPALUA
RON DAHLQUIST / INSET T–B: NANCY ZAFFARO; RITZ-CARLTON MAUI, KAPALUA
This Kapalua favorite has breaking surf all year round. On days when the waves are playful and small, the water is perfect for kids and beginners; during large winter swells, and when summer trade winds are exceptionally strong and gusty, Honokahua is for experts only. But even if conditions are out of your skill range, watching from the beach as boogie boarders do backflips can be just as entertaining as riding the waves yourself. There are outdoor showers on both ends of the beach, as well as restrooms, picnic tables and barbecues at adjoining D.T. Fleming Beach Park. Didn’t pack a lunch? Head to the Burger Shack, part of The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua. Dine alfresco on a signature burger and thick milkshake, or have tropical cocktails with friends as you watch the waves, the surfers and even the whales. Runner-up: Kama‘ole Beach III, Kīhei
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JOHN GIORDANI / INSET T–B: TOR JOHNSON, HAWAI‘I TOURISM AUTHORITY; BOB BANGERTER
MAUI STYLE
BEST BEACH FOR WATCHING WATERSPORTS IN THE LATE AFTERNOON HO‘OKIPA BEACH PARK, PĀ‘IA This beach located at mile-marker 9 along the Hāna Highway is known as the windsurfing capital of the world and the home of contemporary surfing. Ho‘okipa, which means “hospitality” in Hawaiian, has four distinct breaks: Pavilions, Middles, H‘poko (or the Point) and Lanes. The break you choose depends as much on your preferred sport as the time of day: the wind picks up in the afternoon, making conditions more favorable for kiting activities. Ho‘okipa has some shallow tide pools for curious keiki (children), as well as outdoor showers, restrooms, lifeguard towers, picnic pavilions and barbecues. However, an exposed reef, high surf and strong rip currents make Ho‘okipa an experts-only surf destination. Even though it’s not ideal for a casual dip, the cliffs surrounding the bay are great for watching the pros at play. Enter the parking lot at the eastern end of the beach and stake out your spectating area. Stay until dusk and see the honu haul out and bask in the waning light of the day — from a distance, of course. Runner-up: Kanahā Beach Park, Kahului Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2022
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MAUI STYLE
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BEST BEACH FOR WATCHING THE SUNSET ONELOA BEACH, MĀKENA STATE PARK
ANDREW SHOEMAKER
While there’s no such thing as a bad beach on Maui for watching the end-of-day light show, Oneloa has some exceptional evening magic. Known locally — and affectionately — as “Big Beach,” Oneloa stretches for nearly a mile and is spectacularly wide. Because it’s completely undeveloped, it offers a peaceful allure and a sense of serene seclusion backed by the soundtrack of surf — regardless of how full the parking lot gets. In the hour before sunset, a surreal calm envelops Oneloa as the sun dips toward Molokini Crater and suffuses the beach in soft orange hues. The park’s gates close after sunset, but if you’re not ready for the evening to end, drive to neighboring Maluaka Beach and watch the stars come out. Runner-up: Keawakapu Beach, Kīhei
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painting
HAWAIIAN SOUL
In front of his mural, “Return to the Source,” artist Cory Kamehanaokalā Holt Taum (center) talks story with Hōkūao Pellegrino, Kamehameha Schools’ sustainability and ‘āina-based learning designer and facilitator (left), and Clifford Nae‘ole, cultural advisor for The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua.
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the town A sophisticated public art series reveals Wailuku’s deep aloha.
Story by Shannon Wianecki | Photography by Mieko Horikoshi
Adaptations Dance Theater dancers Ali Pineo, Jen Cox, Katie Istvan, Hallie Hunt and Sarah Bauer perform in front of the Hawai‘i State Judiciary Building following the blessing of Taum’s mural.
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HAWAIIAN SOUL
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Above: It’s hard to believe this blank wall on Market Street became Taum’s work of art. Opposite, top to bottom: Located at 2050 Main Street, muralist Eric Okdeh’s (inset) mural, “Where Work is, There is Life,” features an elderly woman teaching a younger girl to sew a kimono. Kirk Kurokawa, Noble Richardson, Elmer Bio and Amanda Joy Bowers collaborated on “Resemble the ‘Alalā,” a dramatic rendering of a Hawaiian crow, a traditional fish trap and an octopus. Below: “Ha‘aha‘a” by Bowers, is one of three murals painted on a temporary wall surrounding the Wailuku municipal parking lot construction area. The piece depicts a young Mary Kawena Pukui, and was inspired by the Hawaiian proverb, E Noho iho i ke ōpū weuweu, mai ho‘oki‘eki‘e, which means, Remain among the clumps of grasses and do not elevate yourself.
OPPOSITE, INSET: SEAN HOWER / BOTTOM: SMALL TOWN * BIG ART
O
ON A FRIDAY AFTERNOON IN MARCH 2022, ADAPTATIONS DANCE Theater transformed the empty space in front of the Maui County courthouse into a dynamic stage. Wind whipped the dancers’ long floral dresses as they performed to a mix of music and spoken word, their fluid movements evoking breaking waves and schooling fish. This single-day performance was one half of Small Town * Big Art’s newest public art project; O‘ahu artist Cory Kamehanaokalā Holt Taum created the other, more permanent half: a mural on the west-facing wall of 2121 Main Street. Entitled “Return to the Source,” the piece features a series of overlapping scales and ‘o‘opu, the native gobies that inhabit nearby ‘Īao Stream. Informed by tradition and lived experience, both the mural and the choreography offer a new perspective on familiar landscapes. This is true for every piece produced by Small Town * Big Art, the initiative that has transformed Wailuku into an impressive, open-air gallery. Wailuku has long been a place of power and convergence, the site of royal births and fierce battles. In 1905, this town at the foot of ‘Īao Valley became the seat of Maui County government. Many of the buildings that once housed markets, theaters and temples built during that era remain, but by the late 1960s, the majority of old kama‘āina (local) businesses had migrated to Kahului. Numerous attempts to revive the historic town fizzled out. Art proved to be a catalyst for growth. In 2012, Kelly McHughWhite, marketing manager for the Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center
Top, left to right: William Garcia, of Hale Hō‘ike‘ike at the Bailey House, and Stephanie Ohigashi, director of international and regional partnerships at the University of Hawai‘i Maui College, lead a mural blessing. Public-art specialist Kelly McHugh-White (left), Hale Hō‘ike‘ike executive director Sissy Lake-Farm (center) and artist Taum look on. Left: Lake-Farm addresses community members who have gathered for the event.
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HAWAIIAN SOUL
Maui artists Kirk (inset) and Karla Kurokawa painted “Ho‘omau” on the Victim Witness Building/Maui County Children’s Peace Center located at 2103 Wells Street. The work was inspired by the Hawaiian saying, He lei poina ‘ole ke keiki, which means “A lei never forgotten is the beloved child,” and a Japanese proverb, Nana korobi ya oki, which means “Fall down seven times, stand up eight.”
in Makawao, partnered with Erin Wade, the Maui County chief of planning and development, on a Wailuku mural project. McHugh-White invited Philadelphia muralist Eric Okdeh to spend two weeks on Maui teaching and creating public art. Okdeh worked with local schoolchildren to create a lush collage of Maui scenes. The artwork’s themes arose from several months of talk-story sessions with local residents prior to Okdeh’s arrival. The resulting piece, “Nā Wai ‘Ehā” (“The Four Great Waters”), features a hula teacher extending her hands toward a young girl who is cupping water from ‘Īao Stream. Silhouetted in rays of sunlight in the background are images of complex local issues: the military bombing of Kaho‘olawe, burning sugarcane fields, and families separated by incarceration. Okdeh installed the mural on the corner of Main and Market Streets and it became an instant landmark — and one of the artist’s most popular pieces. It caught the attention of PangeaSeed, an international nonprofit dedicated to “bringing the ocean into the streets” via public art. PangeaSeed helped McHugh-White and Wade create 10 more murals in Wailuku, each expressing a maukato-makai (mountain-to-ocean) theme. Building on this success, McHugh-White and Wade joined forces with Sissy Lake-Farm, executive director of the Maui Historical Society and Hale Hō‘ike‘ike at the Bailey House Museum. Together, they formed Small Town * Big Art.
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In 2018, the National Endowment for the Arts awarded Small Town * Big Art one of 60 national Our Town grants, and the team has since curated 38 pieces by 36 different artists. Their process is simple but rigorous: artists are invited to submit proposals addressing Wailuku’s unique history and culture. Upon selection, artists meet with Maui community members and kūpuna (elders), who share stories of Wailuku’s past and their hopes for its future. And each artwork must incorporate a bit of poetic wisdom from Mary Kawena Pukui’s book ‘Ōlelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs and Poetical Sayings (Bishop Museum Press). Pukui was Hawai‘i’s preeminent ethnographer, and her collection of proverbs reveals the broad range of indigenous ideology — a source of inspiration for artists of any medium. “Each and every detail of these murals is the result of months of conversation,” says McHugh-White. “It’s a rich process.” The outcomes are rich, too. Okdeh returned to paint a second mural on the 1911 Kanda Home, once a boarding school for “unfortunate Japanese girls.” It features an elderly woman teaching a younger girl to sew a kimono. The billowing purple tapestry spells out the guiding proverb, Ma kāhi o ka hana he ola malaila, or Where work is, there is life. Canadian artist Emmanuel Jarus immortalized a local spearfisherman in an enormous portrait on the backside of the Maui Academy of Performing Arts building. Local luminaries Kirk Kurokawa, Noble Richardson, Elmer Bio and Amanda Joy
SEAN HOWER FOR SMALL TOWN * BIG ART
“Each and every detail of these murals is the result of months of conversation.”
BRYAN BERKOWITZ FOR SMALL TOWN * BIG ART
Canadian artist Emmanuel Jarus (inset) immortalized a local spearfisherman in an enormous portrait called “Eli” on the backside of the Maui Academy of Performing Arts building at 2027 Main Street. Below: Okdeh’s work, “Nā Wai ‘Ehā,” is located at 10 North Market Street.
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Bowers collaborated on two murals. One, “Resemble the ‘Alalā,” is a dramatic rendering of a Hawaiian crow, a traditional fish trap and an octopus. More than simple street art, each Small Town * Big Art piece includes nuanced references to local history and ecosystems. The crow that now watches over Main Street isn’t just any bird, it’s an endemic Hawaiian ‘alalā, among the rarest species in the world. Its pale blue eye indicates that it’s a juvenile — a message of hope for the future. This authenticity and attention to detail reflects the community’s aloha for their home, and encourages a deeper sense of belonging. The murals are just one facet of Small Town * Big Art, and the initiative also has produced sculptures, dance performances and storytelling sessions. “We really try to avoid being pigeonholed as a mural project,” says McHugh-White. “Wailuku is a performing-arts town.” One especially captivating performance was permanently documented using new and unique technology. Artist Lori Hepner taught ‘Īao Intermediate School students how to draw with light, using their bodies. Their dance was preserved as augmented reality (AR) animation, which visitors can access by pointing a cellphone at two mural decals on the wall of the building at 62 North Market Street, next-door to the Historic ‘Īao Theater.
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Right: Artist Lori Hepner handed out wearable LEDs to students in a light-painting workshop at ‘Īao Intermediate School. The students then danced in front of a screen to music by Mike Rose’s Ukulele Club. Above: Their movements were then transformed into augmented reality, which visitors can access by pointing a cell phone at the mural decals at 62 North Market Street.
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One of Small Town * Big Art’s shortestlived pieces is among its most poignant. “Mana Wahine,” a collection of three murals, decorates a temporary wall surrounding the municipal parking lot construction area. Here, Bowers painted a young Pukui facing Vineyard Street. “Mary Kawena Pukui has taken over Wailuku,” McHugh-White says. The Small Town * Big Art team hope to bring its magic to other Maui communities. Using their latest NEA grant, they’ll create a public-art master plan for Maui and will choose three new neighborhoods in which to work. Think your area could use an infusion of art? Go to smalltownbig.org and nominate your community. Visit smalltownbig.org to see a map of the art in Wailuku. IG/FB @smalltownbigart For three different walking tours featuring all of the artwork, download the Ho‘okama‘āina app. mauimuseum.org/app
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AT HOME
THIS BAUHAUS -INSPIRED DWELLING MAKES A BOLD ARTISTIC STATEMENT.
Curved couches and chairs from Italy create an intimate conversation circle within the sizable great room. Near the front entrance (at left), a sleek brown couch marks the perimeter of the family room. To the right, a glass wall opens completely, giving access to the swimming pool and cabana. Upstairs, a cantilevered bedroom overlooking the great room also has an incredible ocean view.
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yer atthew Tha Story by M hers by Ryan Sip y h p ra g to Pho
Eta Somekh has the wall space to display a museum wing’s worth of paintings in her family’s Mākena home, but cannot bring herself to hang a single picture. “Not yet,” she says in a way that sounds a lot like, maybe never. Somekh prefers to let the building serve as mat and frame for the beauty outdoors. Perched on a rocky lava point that juts into the aqua ocean, the home is designed to maximize views, whether of nearby Palauea Beach, the distant West Maui mountain, or the humpback whales frolicking offshore. “Almost every room has a full view of the ocean and West Maui,” Somekh says. “I love it even more at night, when the moon is shining on the water.” Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2022
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AT HOME
This airy bedroom features minimalist decor so as not to detract from the incredible view. Below: An outdoor walkway connects the bedroom with the rest of the second floor.
With its stark white walls, expansive windows and flat roofline, the 9,000-square-foot, four-bedroom home simultaneously reminds one of the Bauhaus movement and the geometric aesthetic of American architectural icon Richard Meier. Picture a blocky structure that is then heated until it’s elastic enough to be stretched and curved, opened and sculpted into a form that is both modern and exceedingly practical — a home that intimately reflects its owners’ personalities and lifestyle. The broad planes and sharp angles of the home echo a former iteration of Somekh, who worked as a metal artist until an automobile accident left her unable to swing a hammer. She now serves on the board of the American Israel Public Affairs Committee and also heads the Somekh Family Foundation, which funds education, the arts and various Jewish causes. The precision of the structure reflects the disposition of Somekh’s husband, Sass, who earned his Ph.D. in electrical engineering at the California Institute of Technology. He was an early pioneer in the semiconductor-equipment industry in Silicon Valley, and holds more than 50 U.S. patents. He also coinvented the Applied Materials Precision 5000, a groundbreaking semiconductor-manufacturing system that is now part of the permanent collection of the Smithsonian Institution. Suffice it to say, the Somekhs have never been ones to embrace the cookie-cutter look. Back when their two sons were in high school, the boys’ friends nicknamed the family’s Northern California residence the “Miami Vice” house because of its flat roof and modern design. “This home [on Maui] is very me,” Somekh says. “Growing up in Israel, I was very influenced by the Bauhaus movement.” Truth be told, it was hard for her not to be thusly swayed. Somekh’s hometown of Tel Aviv was named a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in 2003, and has more than 4,000 structures
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Curves and angles define every aspect of the home, from its dogleg swimming pool, to the walkway above that shades the pool deck, to the spiral staircase winding up to the roof. In the distance, a scallop of the Mākena coast redoubles the blue of the pool.
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AT HOME
Rich cabinetry defines the boundaries of the kitchen, which is a balanced combination of hidden storage space and frosted-glass doors to display kitchen treasures.
built between the 1930s and the 1950s. The functional buildings feature white walls that reflect the desert heat, an abundance of glass to allow for plenty of natural light, and balconies for shade and cooling breezes. The tour of the Mākena home spirals skyward and culminates on the 400-square-foot roof. A hot tub planted squarely in its center bubbles and rolls. The 360-degree view and a refrigerator flush with refreshments makes this the perfect space for entertaining. When the Somekhs first arrived on Maui, their original property was a small Mākena condo that proved to be tight quarters when guests were in town. “Even with [ just] the boys, it was small,” she says. On a walk one day, they saw a for-sale sign on a beachfront road. “We walked down this long driveway and saw another for-sale sign further down,” she says. “This lot was twice as large and about the same price. Although it was closer to the beach, it had more privacy and was facing Lahaina and the West Maui mountain. We bought that one.”
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Above, left to right: In the master bath, a deep soaker tub by WetStyle looks out onto the walkway between the exercise room and the grounds. A floating vanity adds geometric simplicity to the master bath.
The Somekhs worked with their first architect for about a year, but the collaboration ended at a design impasse. It was then that they elected to give Maui architect Rick Ryniak a shot. Ryniak had designed homes for an impressive list of clients, including actor Kelsey Grammer, musician Carlos Santana, and pro golfer Jim Furyk, but his portfolio featured no modernistic designs. “My work is mainly contemporary Hawaiian,” says Ryniak, noting
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AT HOME
Architect Rick Ryniak considered the orientation of the land when designing the home's two-story sweep of glass. The lot faces predominantly north, which means that most of the day the sun is indirect, and the living room stays cool.
A glass-block corner allows for a flood of light in the upstairs bathroom while also maintaining privacy.
that many of the homes he has designed are in gated communities that typically have strict architectural requirements. “The Somekhs gave me an opportunity [to expand my horizons],” he says. “I’m grateful to them for the chance to explore a new area of architecture.” During their preliminary discussions, Ryniak shared with the Somekhs a book on Richard Meier, the architect who designed the Getty Museum in Los Angeles and the Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Art in Spain, as well as many other notable modernist homes. Ryniak then spent a week visiting the family in their Los Altos Hills house in California to get a feel for their lifestyle. Somekh recalls that Ryniak sat at the kitchen table for eight hours a day, doodling and observing, and putting forth concepts for “instant feedback.” “I try to do that with all of my clients,” Ryniak says. “It’s not to see the home they live in now, but to see how they live, and to get to know them as people. Even when we would go out to dinner and they thought we were done, I was still observing and taking notes in my head.” These marathon brainstorming sessions paid off, and Ryniak ultimately created the structure we see today. Aesthetics aside, the home is as efficient as it is stylish, with computerized climate controls, automatic doors and window shades, an elevator, a central vacuum system and ultramodern appliances. Right, top to bottom: A central computer controls everything from music to temperature to window shades. Photovoltaic panels reduce the home’s carbon footprint. The elevator is a boon for guests with heavy luggage. The industrial look of the metal spiral staircase accents the dwelling’s spare and sculptural design.
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A bridge from the second-floor lānai accesses the roof deck of the pool house.
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“Sass is this incredible scientist,” Ryniak says. “He knows more about so many topics than any man I have ever met. Together, we tried to be as sustainable and as regenerative as we could.” Examples include a ventilation system to shunt hot air from the tall, narrow spaces between the living room’s 400-square-foot, curved glass wall and its corresponding shades, which saves a bundle in air conditioning costs and energy usage. And marching across the roof of the semi-attached, three-car garage are layers of photovoltaic panels that power the home and heat the water. Inside a climate-controlled closet, a bank of computers runs the show. With a few keystrokes of a smartphone or computer, the user can adjust the humidity in individual rooms, raise or lower lights or shades, close doors and even check the water temperature in the pool. While Sass gets a gleam in his eye when describing the electronic brain that controls the home’s environment, Eta is still pondering whether she’ll get around to hanging some art. And Ryniak understands her hesitation. “From the moment you walk in, you feel the [home’s] strong relationship with the sky and the mountains,” he says. “You have this giant tapestry of real life in front of you. A piece of art could not do that.”
Curves and angles create an exterior reminiscent of art deco.
RESOURCES Architect Rick Ryniak Architects 50 Pu‘u Anoano St., Kā‘anapali | 808.661.9448 | ryniak.com | IG @ rickryniak_architects | FB @rick.ryniak Cabinetry, Kitchen & Bath Maui Custom Woodworks 251 Lalo St., Kahului | 808.877.0239 mauicustomwoodworks.com | IG/FB @mauicustomwoodworks Engineering Lighting & Engineering Integrated, Inc. Halina Gruszka, principal engineer 300 Wai Nani Way, Honolulu | 808.922.4645 | leintegrated.com Interior Design Merrill & Associates, Inc. 720 Iwilei Rd., Honolulu | 808.228.6938 | merrill-hawaii.com | FB @merrillandassociates Landscaping Hawaii Land Design Bill Mitchell, landscape architect P.O. Box 880479, Pukalani | 808.385.2859 Island Plant Company islandplant.com | 808.572.5094 Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2022
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AN ISLAND OASIS It’s easy to forget in all the bustle that a resort town is actually home to many people, especially those in the service industry. Over the years, I have come to know dozens of managers, chefs and servers who were born and raised here, and who are now busy raising their own children on Maui. Long-standing restaurants blessed with loyal employees and patrons provide all with a sense of community; these are places where everybody does indeed know your name. So when Lahaina Grill, the 2020 ‘Aipono Awards’ Restaurant of the Year, reopened its doors in March 2022 after a full year of closure, I felt the pull of reconnection. I needed a break from our four-acre farm, from planting and harvesting and beating back the ever-pressing forest. I needed a return to normal and was craving that sense of belonging that I’d been missing. When my husband, Chris, and I were planning our anniversary celebration, I immediately suggested a Lahaina staycation. When we arrive in the lobby at Hotel Lahaina to check in, Avie de Asis greets us from behind the desk with warmth and aloha. “Welcome to our boutique hotel!” she says. “So happy you chose to stay with us.” She launches into an account of the amenities, which
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include a gleaming Nespresso coffee maker on the bar. “Self-service espresso is available all day and night,” she says. We head to our suite and enter a clean, white room. The plush bed is outfitted with a Timorese Alola Fair coverlet, throw pillows and bed runner. A cropped image of “The Tree of Life” by Austrian artist Gustav Klimt conceals a flat-screen TV, and directly opposite, two deep lounge chairs with matching ottomans complete a mini movie theater cocoon. A door opens to a balcony that overlooks Lahainaluna Road at one end and the ocean at the other. All in all, the room is even more inviting than the last time we stayed here, some three years prior. And as I sink into a lounge chair, I wonder if two nights will be long enough! At 5 p.m., we head to the Lahaina Grill. Thankfully, we made reservations months before; the room is already half-filled with diners. We recognize longtime restaurant manager Brittany Gymrek, and when she greets us, it feels like a homecoming. We sit at our table and sommelier and head waiter Richard Olson immediately serves us champagne Domaine Jean Vesselle and an amuse-bouche — a farm-fresh Maui deviled egg with a generous
LEFT: KENT HWANG
Our dining editor recounts her relaxing, two-night dine-cation at one of Lahaina’s historic landmarks. Story by Becky Speere | Photography by Mieko Horikoshi
Opposite, from left: Seared ‘ahi and Hudson Valley foie gras with fig compote and a Maui-onion demi-glace balances atop spinach sauteed with truffle oil. A decadent delight: flourless coffee-infused chocolate cake served with Lappert’s Kona-coffee ice cream.
DINING
This page: Locally caught mahimahi goes perfectly with herbed mashed potatoes, sauteed spinach, gorgonzola cheese, pancetta and a chardonnay beurre blanc.
Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May–Jun 2022
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DINING Clockwise, from top left: The perfectly cooked, aged New York steak is served with scalloped potatoes, ali‘i mushrooms and a cabernet demi-glace. Truffle-smoked wild salmon with a Maui-onion potato cake and creme fraÎche is a work of art. Why have one dessert when you can have six!
OPPOSITE: MIEKO HORIKOSHI / THIS PAGE, TOP RIGHT: COURTESY OF LAHAINA GRILL / ALL OTHERS: BECKY SPEERE
Opposite, clockwise from top left: (top 2) The Makai Suite has a spa-like bathroom with luxurious finishes and large, walk-in shower. Our charming, second-floor lānai opens to a great ocean view. The railing’s original woodwork adds warmth to the lobby. A nautical figurehead guards the entrance to this boutique hotel. Plush seating in front of the flat-screen TV is perfect for movie night.
spoonful of Ossetra caviar balanced on top. Bubbles and brine dance and intermingle on our tongues. Next, Olson arrives with a golden seared scallop topped with Hua Momona Farms red-veined amaranth and sweet sunflower microgreens. It rests on a bed of potato-celeriac puree and is surrounded with beurre blanc and a drizzle of lime-green scallion oil. I take a bite and recognize the masterful touch of chef Arnulfo “Arnie” Gonzalez in the delicate layering of the flavors. A fruit-forward De Chanceny Crémant de Loire Rosé pairs perfectly with the dish, and as we put down our forks, owner Jurg Munch stops by to say hello. When we compliment him on the room remodel, Munch smiles and nods. “Yes, we painted and upgraded the rooms, and are using original Southeast Asian tribal-art textile linens,” he says. “The rooms and lobby also feature paintings by a new artist, Aloha De Mele.” “I noticed her puakenikeni lei piece in the lobby,” I say. “And chef Arnie hasn’t skipped a beat in the kitchen! Everything is amazing.” Olson arrives with our next course: an H. Forman & Son trufflesmoked wild salmon served with a warm, creamy-crisp Maui onionand-potato cake. A swirl of balsamic reduction, chive oil and crème fraiche adds a tart richness to the dish. To accompany, Olson recommends an Albert Bichot French Chablis, and as I sip, I taste highlights of lemon zest and green apple. We polish off every last bit and Olson clears our empty plates. He returns shortly with a 2017 Chateau Laribotte Sauternes from the Bordeaux region, which rings of apricots, honey and ginger, and sets down our next course — my favorite: seared sashimi-grade ‘ahi and Hudson Valley foie gras on a bed of sun-ripened fig compote, fresh sauteed spinach with a hint of truffle oil, and a Maui-onion demi-glace. My heart sings with each bite. Munch orders us a wild arugula salad with oven-roasted beets as an intermezzo to cleanse our palates. Aged balsamic vinegar, extra-virgin olive oil and candied pecans enhance the sweetness of the beets, a sublime pause between courses. Then our entree arrives: a corn-finished Omaha Black Angus New York cut steak cooked to a perfect medium-rare, with buttery scalloped potatoes, a side of tender ali‘i (king oyster) mushrooms and a whirl of cabernet demi-glace. Olson pairs the dish with a 2017 cabernet sauvignon from Neal Family Vineyards. Its smooth tannins and hints of cassis and roasted cacao make it the perfect foil to the hearty entree. There is no better way to end a Lahaina Grill meal than with a dessert … or, in our case, six! A tray full of decadent delights turns heads as the server moves through the dining room and places a half-dozen treats on our table. They are almost too beautiful to eat, almost — beauty be damned, we devour them and then head up to our room, sated and smiling. The next morning, we awake to the sounds of Lahaina Town preparing for the day — delivery trucks grind by, street cleaners swish-swish the night away, and cafés clatter with a cacophony of silverware and ceramic plates. The disquietude is not unwelcome; rather, it transports me back in time to my 30s and 40s, when I visited Florence, San Miguel de Allende, Bangkok and other far-flung places. I’m wistful as I hug my
pillow and fall back to sleep. After a lovely day of lounging, we head back to the Lahaina Grill for a light dinner at the bar. Annabehl Sinclair-Delaney, the Grill’s veteran bartender of 25 years, recognizes us as we sit down. “Welcome back!” she says with genuine warmth as she shakes our hands. “It’s been a long time.” We shrug off the heat with a cool Guavalajara tequila cocktail and a Bee Sting made with Empress gin and lavender honey. We order two appetizers that Jurg recommended the evening before: escargot served traditionally in herbs and butter, and fresh sauteed Manila clams. As we share the dish, Sinclair-Delany pours two glasses of a bright, lemony 2018 Planeta Chardonnay. The wine accentuates the salty zing of the fat Manila clams, and the slices of sweet lap cheong (Chinese pork sausage), tomatoes and herbaceous parsley in the broth. Our escargot are tucked into bed alongside garlic- and butter-braised button mushrooms. With over-the-top richness and the slightest hint of curry, the dish begs for a glass of smoky Wagner Stempel Pinot Blanc. For dessert, we share a Key Lime Pie cocktail rimmed with graham cracker crumbs and a dense, flourless chocolate cake topped with coffee ice cream. It’s our final evening, and back in our room we embrace on the balcony and look out over the ocean, reflecting on our two bliss-filled days of dining and dreaming and seeing old friends. The world is right-side up once more, and for this, we are thankful. Hotel Lahaina, 127 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina | hotellahainamaui.com | 808.661.0577 | IG/FB @hotellahaina Lahaina Grill | lahainagrill.com | 808.667.5117 | IG/FB @lahainagrill Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May–Jun 2022
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DINING HIGHLIGHTS
The Short & Savory List Story by Becky Speere
Need something to tide you over until dinner? These delicious dining locales (‘Aipono Awardwinners all) can mitigate your hunger, with selections such as an ‘ahi poke-tini, hummus with fresh local veggies and a real pizzaiolo-made pizza. The Sea House Restaurant
A Saigon Café Tom Ram
Napili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Nāpili | napilikai.com | 808.669.1500 | IG/FB @seahousemaui
A Saigon Café Consistency. That’s what you’ll find at Jennifer’s Saigon Café. I know this because I’ve been eating her food ever since she was a one-woman show on Lower Main Street in the early ’90s. I recommend the Vietnamese burrito, a fun, interactive dish served with chargrilled marinated beef or tofu, rice-paper wrappers and a mountain of fresh veggie condiments. My other go-to is a specialty of the house — the Tom Ram, a.k.a., Garden Party Shrimp. The prawns are fried crisp, then
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TOP: MIEKO HORIKOSHI / BOTTOM: A SAIGON CAFÉ
The Sea House Restaurant ‘Ahi Poke-tini
When my friend Maria said, OMG! Her food reminds me of [a certain Top Chef’s] creations, I knew I had to taste chef Sam Basques’s dishes. And her steak crudo and ‘ahi poketini (pronounced po-kay-tee-nee) definitely met the criteria for onolicious delight. For the steak crudo, the New York strip was cooked rare, then sliced thin and served with Guamanian finadene, a Chamorro sauce that’s akin to salsa. With just the right amount of tartness steeped in umami, the sauce is made with tamari, vinegar, jalapeños and onions, and is finished with a seven-spice chili oil. It paired perfectly with an ice-cold Bikini Blonde from Maui Brewing Company. The poke-tini consisted of a martini glass filled with fresh ‘ahi, avocado and furikake — a sesame and nori-flake condiment — which was embellished with white truffle oil and wasabi aioli. It definitely hit all the marks for freshness, flavor and fun. Now imagine noshing on these dishes while admiring the expansive beachfront at Napili Bay and you’ve got a true recipe for perfection.
A P O LY N E S I A N F E A S T & S H O W A musical and culinary journey to Hawai‘i, Aotearoa, Tahiti and Samoa.
AOTEAROA Land of the long white cloud, Aotearoa – New Zealand, is home to the Maori people.
SAMOA “The cradle of Polynesia,” literally the sacred center of its fiery soul.
HAWAI‘I We begin in our beautiful island home of Hawai‘i with our chants, songs and hula .
TAHITI The land of intrigue and romance, has beckoned explorers from around the world.
667-LELE (5353) • Toll-free: 1-866-244-5353 (LELE) 505 Front Street, Lahaina, Maui, Hawai‘i W W W. F E ASTAT L E L E .CO M
The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua Mediterranean Hummus
Miso Phat Salmon Roll
sauteed in a highly seasoned sauce with nam pla, onions and other secret ingredients which, when blended together, simply cry out for a bowl of rice. Either dish will leave you with a happy opu (belly). 1792 Main Street, Wailuku | asaigoncafe.com | 808.243.9560 | FB @asaigoncafe
That lunchtime burger has left your tummy but it’s not quite time for dinner — what to do? Grab a light snack at the Alaloa Lounge at the Ritz-Carlton in Kapalua. Their new food and libations menu features a bevy of global tastes, such as hulihuli (Hawaiianstyle brined and kiawe-smoked) chicken or a creamy Mediterranean hummus served with a rainbow of fresh, locally sourced Maui vegetables, brought over daily from a farm just a few miles away. The culinary team at the Ritz know just what you need after a day of sun and fun. Enjoy a nibble, watch the whales breach and know that life is good. 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, Kapalua | ritzcarlton.com | 808.669.6200 | IG/FB @ritzcarltonkapalua
Miso Phat Sushi The chefs at Miso Phat Sushi — who won the 2020 ‘Aipono Gold Award for Best Sushi — do not skimp on the fish, and you’re always guaranteed to get your money’s worth when you visit. Try a TNT Roll made with shrimp tempura and crab, and topped with ‘ahi poke, unagi sauce and agave honey. Owners Joy and Shawn Steadman say it’s so big you might explode! Or indulge in a torched salmon roll topped with tobiko, ginger and kabayaki sauce for the ultimate in blended savory flavors. Want to really experience their expert sushi service? Go for the Miso Phat Omakase (chef’s choices) and leave feeling, well, phat. Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei | misophat.com | 808.891.6476 | IG @misophatsushi_kihei | FB @misophatkihei
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Sale Pepe White Pizza With Housemade Mozzarella, Prosciutto and Rosemary
Sale Pepe Very few restaurants in Hawai‘i can boast having a resident pizzaiolo, a certified, Italian-schooled pizza chef, but the 2020 ‘Aipono Gold Award-winner for Best Italian food is one of them. After years of hands-on dough time, owner Michele di Bari has perfected a recipe that corrects for humidity and tropical temperatures. Using 100 percent imported “OO” flour, he mixes and kneads the dough early in the day and lets it rest nearly eight hours to develop hearty gluten strands. When it’s time to get cooking, the dough balls are rolled out and
prepared to make what I consider to be the best pizza on-island. After a spell in the 800degree oven, a piping hot pizza lands on your table, crisp and bubbly, yet with a nice chew and just the right amount of saltiness from hand-pulled mozzarella (which Michele makes daily). From creamy gorgonzola and pears to prosciutto and Fontina to a classic Margherita with house-made marinara and sweet Genovese basil — any pie you choose is sure to satisfy. Andiamo a mangiare! Old Lahaina Center, 878 Front St., Lahaina | salepepemaui.com | 808.667.7667 | IG @salepepemaui
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MIEKO HORIKOSHI / BECKY SPEERE / SALE PEPE
The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua
SEA-TO-TABLE CUISINE On Napili Bay
AWARD
WINNING
Hawaii Magazine’s Third Annual Reader’s Choice Awards: Named One of the Top Five ”Best Hotel/Resort Restaurants” and “Best for Breakfast” in the state of Hawaii
OCEANFRONT Rated “Excellent” by Zagat
DINING
Maui No Ka Oi Magazine’s Annual Maui Restaurant ‘Aipono Culinary Awards: Best Ocean Front Dining: Gold
Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner • Happy Hour Celebrating Over 55 Years of Aloha at Napili Kai Beach Resort 5900 Lower Honoapiilani Rd • Napili • Maui • Hawaii 96761 • 808.669.1500
Hours and More Information at SeaHouseMaui.com
MIXOLOGY
Tiger Balm
Story by Becky Speere
A recent event held at the Fairmont Kea Lani Resort celebrated the multifaceted flavors of island cuisine. Executive chef Jonathan Pasion, from Kō Restaurant, and chef Lanai Tabura, host of Cooking Hawaiian Style and winner of the Food Network’s Great Food Truck Race, took the evening to great heights. They opened with a selection of Native Hawaiian dishes, then cast a wide net to capture the unique cuisine of Maui’s plantationera immigrants, including Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Filipino and Portuguese flavors. One of the most memorable dishes from the soiree was a luscious Kona abalone, prawn and garlic-chive dumpling, sprinkled with lip-numbing Szechuan peppercorns, black vinegar and garlic-chili oil. And just as memorable — if not more so — was the cocktail that accompanied the dish: the Year of the Tiger. My first taste was the herbaceous gin floater, and the second sip uncovered a gamut of flavors, from fruity to sweet-and-sour to salty. Make this fun cocktail to celebrate 2022, the Year of the Tiger, or simply to ring in the weekend! Gàn bēi! (干杯) (Cheers!)
Year of the Tiger Makes 1 drink GARNISH orange slice vanilla simple syrup li hing mui powder**
DIRECTIONS To make garnish, dip orange slice in vanilla simple syrup and sprinkle generously with li hing mui powder. Set aside. Add the first three cocktail ingredients to a shaker with crushed ice. Shake well and strain into a rocks glass over ice. Slowly pour in gin; you want it to float on top, above the other ingredients. Garnish with orange slice. *Puree canned lychee and juice until smooth. Strain through a fine sieve. **Order fresh Maui loquat li hing mui powder at travelingplum.com, or DIY the flavor by wetting the rim with lime juice and dipping it in fine salt.
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COURTESY OF KŌ RESTAURANT AT THE FAIRMONT KEA LANI RESORT
COCKTAIL 2 ounces fresh-squeezed mandarin juice 1 ounce lychee puree* ¼ ounce fresh lemon juice 1½ ounces Empress gin
WE ARE A MAUI FARMING COMPANY HERE TO TRANSFORM 41,000 ACRES OF VACANT FORMER SUGAR CANE LAND INTO A THRIVING HUB OF DIVERSIFIED AGRICULTURE.
WWW.MAHIPONO.COM
Dining Guide B=Breakfast BR=Brunch L=Lunch H=Happy Hour D=Dinner N=Dinner past 9 p.m. R=Reservation recommended $=Average entrée under $15 $$=Under $25 $$$=Under $40 =‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2020 Live music! Check venue website for information. $$$$=$40+
WEST SIDE A‘A ROOTS Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Ste. 3, Nāpili, 298-2499 Vegan cuisine made with the freshest Maui produce. Try the açai bowl, soba bowl with peanut sauce, or bagel sandwich with hummus, avo and veggies. International. B, L, $ ALALOA LOUNGE The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200 Creative farm-to-table cocktails, mocktails and an exciting selection of savory dishes from the dining menu, such as huli huli chicken, sushi and stone-oven pizza. International. D, $–$$ AMIGO’S 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210 Real Mexican fajitas, tostadas, flautas and their famous wet burritos. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D, $ AUNTIE’S KITCHEN The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3259 Saimin, burgers and fresh-fish plate lunches mingle with 2020 ‘Aipono-award-winning poke. Local Mixed Plate. B, L, D, $–$$ BANYAN TREE The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, 1 Ritz Carlton Dr., 665-7096 Start with an heirloom tomato salad with buffalo mozzarella. Then a Hawaiian cioppino full of treasures from the sea in a tomato-fennel broth, or lobster agnolotti. End with warm Valrhona chocolate cake. Great cocktails, too! Italian/Hawai‘i Regional. D, $$–$$$$ BREAKWALL SHAVE ICE COMPANY The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., #104, Lahaina, 661-4900 Grown-up shave ice? You bet! Cool off with one of the best snow cones on Maui and discover your favorite flavor. Treats. $ CANE & CANOE Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681 Try the avocado toast and mimosas for breakfast, and prime select steaks with horseradish crème fraÎche for dinner. Lunch at the in Hāna Hou Bar includes Wagyu bacon-cheddar burgers and vegetarian selections. Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D, $$$–$$$$ CHEESEBURGER IN PARADISE 811 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4855 Wake up to oceanfront views with a cuppa joe and a luscious breakfast. For lunch, try the poke, wings, onion rings or a signature cheeseburger. For dinner: the Aloha Fish and Fries. International. B, L, D, $–$$ CHOICE HEALTH BAR 1087 Limahana Pl., #1A, Lahaina, 661-7711 Second West Maui location: Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali All juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are made with fresh ingredients. Daily specials. American. B, L, $ CLIFF DIVE GRILL Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031 Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish tacos to accompany your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $–$$ THE COFFEE STORE Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 669-4170 Stop in for coffee and a muffin and you may just end up staying for lunch — or longer. (They’re open until 6 p.m.) Great service, fresh-baked goods, yogurt-granola parfaits, chia pudding and to-go items. Coffee Shop. B, L, D, $ COOL CAT CAFÉ The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908 Burgers, chicken and more in a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $
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DOWN THE HATCH The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900 Mermaid fries with cheese and lava sauce, towering shrimp cocktails, fresh island fish and lots of aloha. Great shave ice, too! (See Breakwall’s listing.) Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D, N, $$ DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$ DUKE’S BEACH HOUSE MAUI Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900 Imagine old Hawai‘i while dining on crab-and-macadamia-nut wontons or prime rib at this open-air beach house. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$ FEAST AT LELE 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353 This classic beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$ FLEETWOOD’S ON FRONT ST. 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425 (Yes, that Fleetwood!) Pacific oysters with tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome and a one-pound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. Bar opens at 2 p.m. American/British Pub Food. L, H, D, N, $$–$$$$ FOND Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., #115, Nāpili, 856-0225 Breakfast silog bowls with garlic fried rice, sammies for lunch, Wednesday night friedchicken special and Sunday Chef’s Table. Eurasian. B, L, D, $–$$ FRIDA’S MEXICAN BEACH HOUSE 1287 Front St., Lahaina, 661-1287 Chalupas, fresh aguachile ‘ahi, short-rib tacos and great mixology are among the reasons this seaside restaurant won the 2020 Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Mexican Cuisine. Latin-inspired. L, H, D, $–$$ GAZEBO Napili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Nāpili, 669-5621 Have breakfast for lunch, or lunch for breakfast! Fluffy pancakes, omelets, plate lunches with Cajun-spiced chicken or kālua pork, salads and seven burgers to choose from. Ocean views are free! International. B, BR, L, $ HONU SEAFOOD & PIZZA 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390 Pizza, salads and awesome seafood entrees make this a go-to spot in Lahaina. International. L, D, $$ HUIHUI Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-0124 Chef Tom Muromoto’s menu features local flavors in an oceanfront setting. For breakfast, try poi pancakes with coconut syrup; for lunch, a Moloka‘i venison burger; and for dinner, poke, lū‘au plates, seafood and pan-fried rib-eye steak. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, $-$$$$ HULA GRILL Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636 Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy poke tacos, mai tais, homemade ice-cream sandwiches and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $$ INU POOL BAR The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6370 Islandfresh mixology earned Inu the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best Cocktails — taste for yourself! Enjoy Maui Brewing Company’s Coconut Hiwa beer-can chicken with shoestring potatoes and buttermilk dip, or beer-battered tempura fish with Ocean Vodka tartar sauce. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $–$$
Some venues may still have limited hours or seating due to covid-19. Call ahead or visit their social media sites for information.
ISLAND CREAM CO. Lahaina Gateway, 305 Keawe St., Lahaina, 298-0916 Classic flavors meet island fruit! Make your own Glacier Ice snow cone, or choose from 36 delicious flavors of ice cream. Can’t decide? Take home a few pints! Treats. $ JAPENGO Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Great steaks and authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood are among the reasons Japengo won ‘Aipono Gold for Restaurant of the Year in 2019 and Best Pacific Rim Cuisine in 2020. Japanese. D, N, $$$ JOEY’S KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474 Second West Maui location: Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590 Start your day with macadamia nut pancakes or a kālua-pork omelet at Whalers Village, and end with dinner at the Nāpili venue. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $–$$ KIHEI CAFFE Lahaina Gateway Plaza, 305 Kiawe St., Lahaina, 868-2230. See Shouth Shore listing. LAHAINA GRILL 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117 Treat yourself to a pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad, sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with jasmine rice, or their famous Kona coffee-roasted rack of lamb with coffee-cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selection and cocktails, too! American/ Pacific Rim. D, R, $$$$ LEILANI’S ON THE BEACHWhalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495 Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors with guava chicken wings, ‘ahi poke with taro chips, and crab cakes with tomatillo aioli. Entrees include filet mignon with green onion gremolata or Parmesan-crusted fresh catch. Don’t forget the Hula Pie! Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, H, D, N, $-$$$$ LEODA’S KITCHEN & PIE SHOP 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600 Try the house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread with pineapple coleslaw and an ice-cold beer. The mac-nut chocolate cream pie and fresh-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance! American. B, L, D, $ LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476 This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. See also South Shore listing. Kid-friendly. Treats. $ LONGHI’S Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 100 Nohea Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-2288. Try a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemon-feta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. BR (Fri-Sun), D. $$ MĀLA OCEAN TAVERN 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9394 Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the health-conscious and hedonistic alike at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (Sat & Sun), L, D, $$ MAUIGROWN COFFEE CO. STORE 277 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-2728 Running low on energy? Head to MauiGrown’s plantation-style hale for a boost. Pumpkin bread and other baked goods round out a great cuppa joe. Coffee Shop/Cafe. B, L, $ MAUKA MAKAI The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6400 Expect the freshest fish, beef, lamb, vegetable sautees and island-inspired desserts at this restaurant that celebrates the fishing and farming cultures of ancient Hawai‘i. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $–$$$
A Constellation, A Gathering, A Mixture - All Things Huihui
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Dining Guide More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide MERRIMAN’S KAPALUA 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua, 669-6400 Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create the most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. BR (Sun), L, D, R, $$–$$$$ MISO PHAT SUSHI Kahana Manor, 4310 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #111, Kahana, 669-9010 See South Shore listing. MOKU ROOTS 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 214-5106 This vegan/vegetarian venue is worth a visit. Winner of the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best New Restaurant and 2020 Silver for Tastiest Healthy Fare. Vegetarian/ Vegan. B, L, D, $ MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763 See South Shore listing.
PIZZA PARADISO MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929 Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D, $–$$ PRISON STREET PIZZA 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332 East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Italian/Pizza. L, D, $ ROY’S 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999 Line up for a great Maui burger at lunchtime. For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, daikon and pickled ginger. Save room for the signature Melting Hot Chocolate Souffle! Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$$
OLD LĀHAINA LŪ‘AU 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0700 Eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$
ROYAL OCEAN TERRACE RESTAURANT Royal Lahaina Resort & Spa, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-3611 Breakfast offerings include loco moco and eggs Benedict, or go light with avocado toast topped with microgreens. Burgers and prime rib, too. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $–$$
PACIFIC’O ON THE BEACH 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341 Owner Louis Coulombe and managing partners the DiBaris (of Sale Pepe) reimagined this beachfront venue with a new menu by chef Isaac Bancaco. Try the “cacio e pepe” pasta, Kobe beef shortribs or herb-crusted ‘ahi. Pacific Rim. D, $-$$$
SALE PEPE 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667 Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci puree on grilled crostini and house-made strozzapreti pasta — just like chef Michele Di Bari’s mama makes in Italy. Good Italian wines and beer. Italian/Pizza. D, $$
PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 632 Front St., Lahaina, 662-3456 See North Shore listing.
SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286 Small and action-packed, D.K. Kodama’s classy sushi bar draws lines late into the night. Try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a sip of sake. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, R, $$$
PAPA‘AINA Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636 Try the curated menu from Bravo’s Top Chef competitor Lee Anne Wong. Smoked salmon Benedict for breakfast, cheesy kālua-pork nachos and a cold beer at happy hour. Dig into a plate of linguini with shrimp and Portuguese sausage for dinner. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $–$$
THE SEA HOUSE RESTAURANT Napili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-1500 Start the day with oven-baked pancakes laden with
fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp as the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesdays, stay for Grammy Award-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack-Key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$ SON’Z STEAKHOUSE Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506 Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce will rock your evening. Sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or mahimahi in lemoncaper butter. Pacific Rim/Steak. H, D, N, $$–$$$$ STAR NOODLE 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5400 Big-city style and local flavors unite. Enjoy a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea as you drink in the view of Lāna‘i across the channel. The ramen broth is extra smoky, the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D, $$ TAVERNA 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426 Dining heaven. House-made pasta, agrodolce-style fish of the day and Italian desserts stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Great wine, cocktails and craft beer. Italian. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$ TEDDY’S BIGGER BURGERS 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111 The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $ THAI CHEF Old Lahaina Center, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814 This well-loved venue keeps diners coming back. Commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls and beef salad drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D, $ TOMMY BAHAMA’S MARLIN BAR 900 Front St., Lahaina, 500-6204. Blackened mahimahi tacos, furikake and sriracha aioli tater tots, and worldfamous coconut shrimp. Great drinks, too! Pacific Rim. L, H, D, $-$$
NEW COV ERE D OUT DOO R SEATING !
SILVER Best Italian SILVER Best Handcrafted Cocktails
GOLD Best Italian GOLD Best Handcrafted Cocktails
DINNER: 5pm-9pm LUNCH & HAPPY HOUR: 12pm-5pm SUNDAY BRUNCH: 10am-1pm
808-667-CIAO (2426)
WWW.TAVERNAMAUI.COM 2000 Village Rd, Kapalua, Maui
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Client: Leoda’s Trim 4.64" x4.785” Color: FULL
ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 790 Front St., Lahaina, 877-3700 Second West Maui location: Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali Homemade tropical-flavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Kid-friendly. Treats. $ ‘ŪMALU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4902 Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, $$$ WAIKIKI BREWING COMPANY 900 Front St., Lahaina, 856-0036 Paddy’s Irish Stout and Waikele Wheat brew temper the heat of the jalapeño queso dip served with a giant pretzel. Follow it up with smoked Kona-coffee-rubbed beef brisket and cheddar potato cake and you’ll be one happy patron. American. BR, L, D, $–$$ WELOWELO Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 262-8450 Poolside bar and grill offering unique Hawai‘i regional fare, pizzas, burgers and salads. Stop in for a cool cocktail or tropical ice cream. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $-$$
·BURGERS
AND OUR HOMEMADE SWEET & SAVORY PIES
SOUTH SHORE 1054 TOGOSHI South Maui Center, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 868-0307 Chef Manabu’s 25 years as a sushi chef — two as head chef at Morimoto’s Maui — shine through in fresh sashimi and sushi. Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of each month. Sushi. D, $–$$ AKAMAI COFFEE COMPANY 1325 S. Kīhei Rd., #100, Kīhei, 868-3251 Second South Shore location: 116 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 868-0003 Experience coffee and espresso done right at this 2020 ‘Aipono Gold Award-winner for Best Coffee Shop. Coffee Shop. $ BISTRO MOLOKINI Grand Wailea Maui Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 A casual, openair eatery serving organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips and grilled mahimahi made with fresh, local ingredients. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $$$ BOTERO LOUNGE Grand Wailea Maui Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Named for the surrounding Fernando Botero sculptures, this lounge offers nightly entertainment. On Thirsty Thursdays, a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. Lounge. L, D, H, N, $ CAFE O’LEI 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368 Choose from macadamia nut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$
OPEN DAILY FROM 10 AM to 6 PM leodaskitchenandpieshop leodasmaui leodasmaui
Lahaina Fried Soup Pohole Salad HAPA RAMEN STAR UDON AHI AVO GARLIC NOODLES Singapore Noodles Steamed Pork Buns PAD THAI SAKE COCKTAILS UDON
COCONUT’S FISH CAFEAzeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979 Dive into fresh fish tacos, a grilled fish burger or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D, $$ CUATRO 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-1110 Latin and Pacific Rim flavors mingle at this pocketsized restaurant. Try the spicy ‘ahi nachos or the “Maui-terranian” fish dressed in basil beurre blanc, salsa and balsamic syrup. Latin/Pacific Rim. D, $$$ DUO Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Breakfast buffet or à la carte? Did someone mention chateaubriand? Four Seasons never disappoints. Pacific Rim. B, D, $–$$$ ESKIMO CANDY SEAFOOD MARKET & DELI 2665 Wai Wai Pl., Kīhei, 891-8898 Locals come for the rice bowl topped with poke mixes like shoyu, spicy wasabi and furikake. Fresh opah and chips with cabbage coleslaw, too. Seafood/Deli. L, D, $–$$
FRESH HOUSE MADE NOODLES & ASIAN SPECIALTIES SERVING LUNCH & DINNER
1285 FRONT STREET NEXT DOOR TO THE OLD LĀHAINĀ LŪ‘AU
RESERVATIONS & TAKE-OUT
808.667.5400
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Dining Guide More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide FABIANI’S PIZZERIA & BAKERY South Maui Center, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888 Enjoy bagels and lox, fresh croissants, caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, and spaghetti with house-made pork sausage meatballs. Italian/ Bakery. HR, D, $–$$
noodles — chopsticks in one hand and burger in the other — local style! See also Central listing. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, $–$$ HUMBLE MARKET KITCHIN Wailea Beach Resort, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655 Chef Roy Yamaguchi hits it out of the park with kampachi crudo, seasonal Goose Point oysters, roasted Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, tender beef short ribs and even saimin. Pacific Regional. B, H, D, $–$$$
FAT DADDY’S SMOKEHOUSE 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711 What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked for 15 hours over kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans and two cabbage slaws: one sweet/tart and one with blue cheese and apples. American. D, $–$$
ISLAND GOURMET MARKETS The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055 Sushi to go, deli sandwiches, plate lunches and more. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $
FERRARO’S BAR E RISTORANTE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8748000 For lunch, enjoy a veggie quesadilla or a grilled tenderloin sandwich served poolside. For dinner, salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, H, D, $$$$
KA‘ANA KITCHEN Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 A Wagyu hangar steak on a green papaya salad, charred octopus with local goat cheese, Kona abalone risotto, and a modern take on chicken and waffles. Curated wine list and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D, $$$$
FORK & SALAD 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675 Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, glutenand dairy-free options. International. L, D, $
KAMANA KITCHEN 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-7888 Eye-catching art and Indian relics accent a menu highlighting exotic spices and dishes, all lovingly created from family recipes. Lunch buffet. Indian. L, D, $–$$
FOUR SEASONS LOBBY LOUNGE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Impeccable service, a locally sourced menu, swanky cocktails and performances by local musicians. Pacific Rim. H, D, N, $$$$
KIHEI CAFFE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230 Hungry at 5 a.m.? Head to this local hangout for banana-mac-nut pancakes, loco moco and a cuppa joe. Cafe. B, L, $–$$ KŌ Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock” — three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock to sear them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, H, D, R, $$$
GANNON’S 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 875-8080 Order drinks at the Red Bar, then enjoy chef Bev Gannon’s fine comfort food: maple vinaigrette chicken salad, or venison atop Parmesan risotto. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$$ HAVENS 30 Manao Kala St., Kīhei, 868-2600 Named one of the top 50 new restaurants in America by Forbes Magazine. Try the smash burger and
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LEHUA LOUNGE Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Cocktails created with
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locally sourced, seasonal ingredients like lychee, liliko‘i (passionfruit) and Hawaiian navel oranges pair perfectly with Ka‘ana Kitchen’s award-winning menu. Lounge. H, $ LINEAGE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8800 If steamed clams with housemade “XO” and lup cheong sausage, Maui beef with black garlic, and hulihuli chicken with pineapple kim chee get your juices flowing, head to Wailea — now! Eat. Drink. Talk story. Pacific Rim. D, $–$$ LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779 Chill out! Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with Plantation Era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut pudding) and macadamia nut ice cream. Treats. $ LUANA LOUNGE Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100 This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kālua pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce and lomilomi tomato, paired with an ice-cold passionfruit ale. Japanese. D, N, $–$$ MANOLI’S PIZZA COMPANY 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499 Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into authentic chicken scaloppine. Italian/Pizza. L, H, D, N, $$ MAUI BREWING CO.605 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 201-2337 MBC’s flagship restaurant offers brews, burgers, flights and more at this off-the-grid craft brewery. Brewery/Pacific Rim. L, D, N $-$$ MAUI THAI BISTRO Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-5605 Thai food cooked by Thai chefs! Kaffir-scented tom yum fried rice, green mango salad with crispy fried-fish filets, and house curries. Beer and wine bar. Thai. L, D, $–$$
3/16/22 9:49 AM
MISO PHAT SUSHI Azeka Shopping Center Makua, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476 Sushi served on-site, to-go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! Japanese. L, H, D, $$ MATTEO’S OSTERIA Wailea Town Center, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466 Matteo’s meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Co. beef and Italian sausage, or ‘ahi crusted with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, H, D, $$–$$$ MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Wailea Gateway Center, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322 Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner, Big Island rib-eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage and banana cream pie. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, N, $$ MULLIGANS ON THE BLUE100 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 874-1131 Guinness poured properly at Maui’s only Irish-owned pub. Enjoy fish and chips, bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie. Great music and sports-bar action, too. Sláinte! Irish pub. L, H, D, $–$$$
Welcome to
The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea
NALU’S SOUTH SHORE GRILLAzeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650 Generous portions made with local ingredients served with aloha. Try the ‘ahi club with smoked bacon, fresh fish ‘n’ chips and hearty burgers. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $–$$
Discover the flavors of the islands in our elegant alfresco setting with sweeping views of three Hawaiian Islands.
NICK’S FISHMARKET Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-7224 Enjoy classic seafood dishes beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. H, D, R, $$$$
The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea infuses its menu with a distinct and flavorful sense of place. Executive Chef Bryan McMahon’s “culinary casual” fare showcases the island’s freshest, most seasonal ingredients.
NUTCHAREE’S AUTHENTIC THAI FOOD Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840 Start with the ‘ahi laab tartare salad or crispy fish and mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D, $–$$ PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888 The same yummy menu that hooked surfers and families in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei. See North Shore listing. THE PINT & CORK The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 727-2038 Mac ‘n’ cheese with black truffles, shrimp and grits with chorizo, poke bowls and burgers. During football season you can score breakfast, too! American. L, H, D, N, $–$$
Perched on the hillside above Maui’s south coast, the restaurant offers panoramic ocean views from the open-air upper lanai and intimate dining under the stars in the garden. The Birdcage Bar lounge experience offers a selection of craft cocktails, fine wines and small plates set against 180° ocean views.
PITA PARADISE Wailea Gateway Center, 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 879-7177 Start with classic spinach tiropitas with caramelized onions, feta, mozzarella and tzatziki wrapped in phyllo dough, then move on to kabobs, pasta and gyros. Finish with baklava ice-cream cake. Mediterranean. L, H, D, $–$$$ THE RESTAURANT AT HOTEL WAILEA Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224 Produce from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from the sea provide some of the freshest ingredients around. With a gorgeous outdoor setting, it’s a night made in heaven. European-inspired. H, D, N, $$–$$$$
555 Kaukahi St., Wailea hotelwailea.com/rhw | 808.879.2224
ROASTED CHILES Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357 Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like chicken mole, pozole verde and langostino enchiladas with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, H, D, $–$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880 Steaks and homespun side dishes worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list. American. H, D, N, $$$$
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Dining Guide More listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR Kukui Mall, 1819 Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-0780 See West Side listing. SEASCAPE RESTAURANT Maui Ocean Center, 192 S. Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7068 Adjacent to an award-winning aquarium, Seascape serves up harbor views with a hearty side of aloha. Mahimahi sandwiches with fresh cabbage slaw, half-pound burgers and fresh veggies. Save room for the Maui Mud Pie! American. L, H, D (Sat & Sun), $$–$$$ SOUTH SHORE TIKI LOUNGE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-6444 Gourmet pizza, burgers, salads and vegetarian items round out the menu at this hip bar. American. L, D, N, $ SPAGO Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Start with fresh poke nestled in crunchy sesame-miso cones, then enjoy the caramelized pork chop with exotic notes of anise, cinnamon and pineapple. Chef Peleg will have you singing his praises. Pacific Rim. D, N, $$–$$$ TANPOPO 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., #F, Kīhei, 446-3038 Lunch includes ramen, Japanese-style chicken curry, California rolls and beef burgers. Dinner fuses Italian and Japanese with pasta, flatbreads, sashimi, sushi and tempura. Japanese/Italian Fusion. L, D, $–$$$ THREE’S BAR & GRILL 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133 Eggs Benedict six ways, including seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon and prime rib. For lunch, Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen. For dinner, truffle-yaki marinated flatiron steak. Pacific Rim/Southwestern. B, L, H, D, $$–$$$ TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT & BAR The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983 Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such
delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, N, $–$$ ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE Rd., Kīhei See West Side listing.
61 S. Kīhei
VIETNAMESE CUISINE Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-2088. Start with shrimp spring rolls served with tamarindpeanut sauce. Then the grilled pork with pickled root veggies, a traditional clay-pot dish, or pho, steak and noodle soup. Vietnamese. L, D, $–$$
CENTRAL BISTRO CASANOVA 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 873-3650 This downtown bistro serves paella for two, freshcut french fries and burrata caprese. Best pau hana (happy hour) in Kahului! Mediterranean. L, H, D, $–$$ CAFE O’LEI AT THE MILL HOUSE Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 5000553 Second Central location: The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073 Fun, expanded menu at the restaurant group’s newest venue. The most beautiful mountain view in the Central Valley! Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $–$$$ ESTERS FAIR PROSPECT 2050 Main St., Wailuku, 868-0056 Serving classic cocktails, tiki drinks, spirits, rum, Mezcal, wine and beer. Local farm-to-tableinspired small plates. Rosé wine and daiquiris during happy hour. Open 2-10 p.m. Lounge/Snacks. H, N, $ FORK & SALAD Pu‘unene Shopping Center, 120 Ho‘okele St., #330, Kahului, 793-3256 See South Shore listing. HAVENS Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., 868-0555. Smash burgers with bacon and
LOCAL FARE , IMAGINATIVE FLAIR Dine at Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort, where locally sourced ingredients meet innovative culinary experiences. Indulge your senses at our signature restaurant Ka’ana Kitchen. Unwind at Lehua Lounge where our expert mixologists craft cocktails that are as appealing to your palate as they are to your eyes. Book your reservation today on OpenTable or call us at 808 573 1234. MORE INFORMATION AT ANDAZMAUI.COM
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onion rings, sushi hand rolls, and garlic noodles. Plenty kau kau! See also South Shore listing. Food Truck. L, D, $ MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-CUPS (2877) Pastries, muffins, salads, sandwiches, wraps, and bagels and lox made to order. Fresh-roasted coffee beans set this experience above the rest. “Happy Cappy Hour” 2-6 p.m. Coffee Shop. B, L, H, $ MAUI FRESH STREATERY MauiFreshStreatery. com, 344-7929 Kyle Kawakami, ‘Aipono’s 2019 Chef of the Year, also won the 2020 ‘Aipono Gold Award for Best Food Truck. Street food with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L, $ ONLY ONO BBQ Heritage Hall, Pā‘ia., OnlyOnoBBQ. com, 777-9026 Crispy-skin Chinese-style roast pork and duck, bao pork buns, plate lunches and smoked brisket. Location varies. Download menu and schedule. Chinese/American. L, D, $ A SAIGON CAFE 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560 Squeeze into a booth and order a Vietnamese burrito, clay pot, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D, $ SAM SATO’S 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 244-7124 This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L, $ THAI MEE UP Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369 Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles. Curry, too! Thai. Food Truck. L, D, $ TIGHT TACOS 349 Hanakai St., Kahului, 707-1221 Scratch great Mexican street food off your foodie bucket list! Get the three-taco plate lunch (braised
beef, pork and shrimp) with corn, rice and salsa. Mexican. L, $ TIN ROOF MAUI 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753 Sheldon Simeon of Bravo’s Top Chef fame builds memorable kau kau bowls filled with savory offerings: furikake-crusted seared salmon, Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter and a killer spicy fried-chicken sandwich. Pacific Rim. L, $ TJ’S WAREHOUSE 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 2447311 Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and a hot line of daily specials, like potato croquettes, nishime and poke. Asian. B, L, $ ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului Second Central Maui location: 50 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku See West Side listing. UMI MAUI 1951 Vineyard St., Wailuku, 269-1802. Second Central location: Food Truck, Maui Street Market, 150 Hāna Hwy., 500-8783. If a California roll topped with tuna, hamachi, salmon and unagi rocks your world, then chef Jayse Sato’s restaurant is your earthquake! Creative presentations, epic soft-shell crab bao buns. BYOB. Japanese. D, $–$$ WAILUKU COFFEE COMPANY 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259 Espresso, salads, sandwiches and ice cream served in a relaxed and eclectic setting. Coffee Shop. B, L, $
UPCOUNTRY GRANDMA’S COFFEE HOUSE 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140 The eggs Benedict and baked goods made from scratch are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onions. Coffee Shop. B, L, $–$$
KULAMALU FOOD TRUCK LOT Kiopa‘a St., Pukalani, (next to Upcountry Longs) An eclectic array of food trucks including vegetarian, plate lunch, açai bowls, barbecue and more. Food Truck. $-$$ LA PROVENCE 3158 L. Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313 Perfect croissants, fruit tarts, blueberry-mango scones and artisan breads baked fresh daily. Great coffee. Cash only. French/Bakery. B, L (Weds-Sun), $
burgers. Plus homestyle chili and rice or kālua pork plate lunch. American. L, D, $ WAILUKU COFFEE CO. Aloha Aina Center, 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 868-3229 See Central listing.
NORTH SHORE CHOICE HEALTH BAR 11 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia, 661-7711 See West Side listing.
LUMERIA’S WOODEN CRATE 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579-8877 Fresh, locally caught fish and healthy fare highlight a menu that changes daily. Produce grown on site is the foundation for many dishes at this charming retreat. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R, $$–$$$$
FLATBREAD COMPANY 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989 Big booths, a snazzy bar scene and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N, $$
MAUIWINE 14815 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-6058 Enjoy wine tastings and light fare on the open-air lānai. Immaculate grounds surrounding the wine-tasting room are perfect for a picnic. Winery. L, $-$$
HANA HOU SURF CLUB 65 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 707-9752. Experience the newest restaurant in Pā‘ia Town! Try a loco moco or açai bowl for breakfast, a poke bowl or burger for lunch. Open 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. International. B, D (Fri & Sat), $-$$$
NUKA 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939 Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Creative lunch and dinner specials. Save room for black-sesame or green-tea ice cream! Japanese. L, D, $$–$$$
MAMA’S FISH HOUSE 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488 Famous for its heart-stirring, beachside, windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine, Mama’s evokes old-time island hospitality. In 2018, this Maui institution became a James Beard nominee for Best Restaurant. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, R, $$–$$$$
O‘O FARM 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant for reservations, 667-4341 Take a tour to learn about gardening and coffee roasting. Enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven and fresh-roasted coffee. Lunch includes chicken and fish entrees, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L, R, $$$$ ULUPALAKUA RANCH STORE & GRILL 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561 Across the road from MauiWine you’ll find great deli fare, lamb burgers with tzatziki, and beef or grass-fed venison
NYLOS 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354 Since its opening, this fine-dining restaurant has garnered rave reviews on the coconut wireless for its menu and casual ambiance. International. D, $$$$ PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030 Huge slabs of fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D, $
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ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
May–June 2022
MAY
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& 8 Mother’s Day with Anuhea 9 p.m. Treat your mom (or yourself!) to this concert with inspirational local songwriter Anuhea. Da Playground Maui, 300 Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea | daplaygroundmaui.com | 808.727.2571 | IG/FB @daplaygroundmaui
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–22 Maui Classical Music Festival Now in its 40th season, this annual event features eight world-class musicians, including bassist Kurt Muroki, a Maui native and graduate of Baldwin High School. Concerts will be held in historic churches all around the island. See website for details. P.O. Box 532573, Kīhei | mauiclassicalmusicfestival.org | 808.280.5662 | FB @maui-classical-musicfestival
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Maui Forest Bird Pint Night 6–10 p.m. Maui Brewing Company has gone to the birds! The venue will donate 50 percent of the evening’s house beer profits to the Maui Forest Bird Recovery Project, helping save our endangered avian species. Kahana Gateway Shopping Center, 4405 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana | mauibrewingco.com | 808.669.3474 | FB @mauibrewingco
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–July 22 Solo Artist Exhibit at the Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center 4 p.m. This exhibition features two notable artists: Terry Lopez, a painting instructor at the Hui who works primarily in oil, and Nancy Young, an educator whose drawings promote cultural, environmental and personal activism. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao | huinoeau.com | 808.572.6560 | IG @huinoeau | FB @hui.noeau
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Artist 2 Artist — Hawai‘i Legends Edition 7:30 p.m. Host Henry Kapono, winner of 20 prestigious Nā Hōkū Hanohano Awards, and slack-key legend Ledward “Led”
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May 27-July 22: Terry Lopez
Ka‘apana, talk story and then play together in a live jam session. Maui Arts & Cultural Center, 1 Cameron Way, Kahului | mauiarts.org | 808.242.7469 | IG @mauiartsculture | FB @maui.arts
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DoomaPhotos Slide Show 5–10 p.m. Come see epic shots of Maui’s surfers taken over the years by photographer Damian Antioco, and enjoy live music from local band 3 Pounds of Kalo. Down the Hatch, 685 Front St., Lahaina | dthmaui.com | 808.661.4900 | IG/FB @dthmaui
JUNE
4
Kahakuloa Half Marathon and Relay Try your hand (er ... feet) at one of the most scenic half-marathons in the country. Begin at Fleming’s Beach in Kapalua and end at the Kahakuloa Congregational Church. Run the entire route yourself, or team up for a 2- or 4-person relay to divvy up the mileage! runnersparadiseinc.com | 808.280.5801
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Rumours: The Ultimate Fleetwood Mac Tribute 8 p.m. Travel back in time and dance the night away with a spectacle featuring period-accurate instruments and costumes. Da Playground Maui, 300 Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea | daplaygroundmaui.com | 808.727.2571 | IG/FB @daplaygroundmaui
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World Whale Film Festival 5:30–9 p.m. Presented by the Pacific Whale Foundation, this event invokes the power of storytelling to raise awareness of the threats impacting nature and mankind. Enjoy dinner and drinks as the films roll, including the premiere of Ocean Guardians, which documents the migration of humpback whales. Ocean Vodka Organic Farm and Distillery, 4051 ‘Ōma‘opio Rd., Kula | pacificwhale.org/ filmfest | 808.877.0009
ArtLab Maui
ONGOING EVENTS ArtLab Maui This brand-new art studio features teacher-led programs for kids of all ages, including painting, drawing, sculpting and more. After-school and summer-camp sessions available. All materials included. 381 Huku Li‘i Pl., Ste. 103, Kīhei | artlabmaui.com | 808.666.0111 | IG @theartlabmaui | FB @artlabmaui The Magical Mystery Show 6 days per week (dark Wednesdays), 5 p.m. & 7:30 p.m. Enjoy the world’s best magical entertainers at The Fairmont Kea Lani Resort. Witness closeup magic and miraculous feats of prestidigitation. See the Fairmont’s concierge or purchase tickets online. hotel-magic.com | 888.624.4202 | IG @ themagicalmysteryshow | FB @magicalmysteryshowglobal Wailea Wednesdays Weekly, 4:30–6 p.m. Enjoy live music as you peruse more than 70 boutiques, galleries and restaurants at The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea | theshopsatwailea.com | 808.891.6770 | IG/FB @theshopsatwailea Maui Swap Meet Saturdays, 7 a.m.–1 p.m. Since 1981, this market has been loved by locals and visitors alike. Shop for T-shirts, jewelry, produce and items handmade by local artists. Hungry? Hit the food trucks for snacks, lunch and shave ice. 310 Ka‘ahumanu Rd., Kahului, across from the Maui Arts & Cultural Center | mauihawaii.org | 808.244.3100 | FB @maui-swap-meet Cultural Classes New cultural advisor Hoku Haiku brings 25 years of experience as an educator to the Montage Kapalua
COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS
May 7 & 8: Mother’s Day with Anuhea
May 27: Artist 2 Artist, Henry Kapono
May 13–22: Maui Classical Music Festival, Kurt Muroki
June 18: Nā Kamehameha Commemorative Pā‘ū Parade
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–12 Kapalua Wine & Food Festival This intimate and engaging series of events is hosted by master sommelier Michael Jordan. Enjoy interactive wine seminars, pairing dinners, evening soirees, walkabout tastings and more. See website for dates and times. kapaluawineandfood.com | IG @ kapaluawine | FB @kapaluawineandfood
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Na Kamehameha Commemorative Pā‘ū Parade and Ho‘olaule‘a 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Celebrate Ali‘i Nui Kamehameha with a fun-filled day of hula, Hawaiian music, food and crafts. There are plenty of activities for keiki (children), including a parade at 9:45! Banyan Tree Park, 648 Wharf St., Lahaina | FB @NKCPPH
COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS
Bay Resort, leading activities such as a guided educational walk, ‘ukulele lessons, lei making and more. See website for dates and times. Reservations recommended. 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua | montagehotels. com/kapaluabay | 808.662.6600 | IG @ montagekapalua | FB @montagekb Nature Conservancy of Hawai‘i Hike 2nd Saturday of every month Hike the Waikamoi Preserve in Ha‘ikū, a high-elevation rainforest that is home to hundreds of native Hawaiian plants and animals. Donations requested, reservations required. hike_waikamoi@tnc.org | 808.572.7849 Papa Hula Fridays, 4–5 p.m. Discover the art of hula with this complimentary dance workshop at The Shops at Wailea. All ages welcome! 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea | theshopsatwailea.com | IG/FB @ theshopsatwailea Coral Reef Alliance Planting Day 2nd Saturday of every month, 8:30 a.m.– 12 p.m. Team up with CORAL to plant
June 9–12: Kapalua Wine & Food Festival
native Hawaiian species in order to reduce erosion and prevent sediment from reaching West Maui’s coral reefs. Snacks and water provided. Kahekili Beach Park, 65 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali | coral.org | 808.633.6029 | IG @coral_org | FB @coralreefalliance Haleakalā National Park Service Trip 1st and 3rd Sunday of every month, 7:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Work to remove invasive species on Haleakalā. Volunteers who meet at the Pacific Whale Foundation get free transportation to and from the crater and free park admission. 300 Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea | pacificwhale.org | 808.249.8811, ext. 1 | IG/FB @pacificwhalefoundation Maui’s Finest Craft Fairs 9 a.m.–3 p.m. Shop for quality gifts and souvenirs made by local artisans at these fairs held at the Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Villas, Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club and the Hyatt Residence Club Maui. Check the website for specific days and locations. mauisfinestcraftfairs. com | 808.268.9822 | IG/FB mauisfinestcraftfairs
June 4: Kahakuloa Half Marathon and Relay
Te Au Moana Lū‘au Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri and Sat, 4:30–7:30 p.m. Te Au Moana is an authentic cultural experience curated exclusively for the Wailea Beach Resort. The lū‘au features local and Hawaiian culinary offerings paired perfectly with tropical cocktails. 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea | marriott.com | 808.879.1922 | IG @waileabeachresort | FB @ waileabeachresortmarriottmaui Lahaina Arts Society Fine Art Fair Saturdays and Sundays, 9 a.m.–4 p.m. This weekly outdoor event hosts local Maui artists and live demonstrations at the Lahaina Cannery Mall, 1221 Honopi‘ilani Hwy., Lahaina | lahainacannerymall.com | 808.661.5304 | IG @lahainacannery | FB @lahainacannerymall Want your function or event to be included? Email calendar@mauimagazine.net or submit online at mauimagazine.net/maui-events. Include the event name, description, date/time, website, photos (300 dpi) and social media handles. Submissions for the July–August 2022 issue must be received by May 10. Entries edited for content and space.
Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi May-Jun 2022
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PAU HANA
Maddahs an’ Suns Story by Tita | Illustration by Matt Foster
Today I gotta call up my son on da phone an’ tell ‘em no need get me nottin’ fo’ Maddah’s Day. Ev’ry year I do dat, jus’ fo’ remind him dat Maddah’s Day comin’ up. ‘Cause even dough I tell ‘em I no like nottin’, I would be all upset if he no do somet’in’. No get me wrong, I no like him spend money on me. Da bes’ gifts is da ones from da heart, an’ actions talk mo’ loud dan presents. I happy if he jus’ call me up fo’ wish me one Happy Maddah’s Day, an’ den we talk story about da kine stuffs he used to do. Like my firs’ Maddah’s Day breakfas’ in bed. He was only four years old, so da menu was kinda limited: dry Cheerios. When he was t’ird grade, his whole class wen’ make Maddah’s Day plates in school. Da teachah tol’ da kids fo’ draw pick-cha on da plates, an’ den she wen’ bake ‘em fo’ make ‘em permah-nent. All his friends wen’ draw their fav’rite cartoons — Ninja Turtohs an’ Transformahs, li’dat, but my son wen’ draw Herself da Elf on top his plate, wit flowahs an’ all. Ev’rybody, even da girls, wen’ make fun of him, but he nevah care. Herself was fo’ me, not fo’ himself. Dass my boy. He always t’ink of his maddah. Jus’ like one noddah local boy, way mo’ famous, who wen’ risk his life fo’ help his maddah. Maui, da demigod, was kolohe (rascal); in fack, they used to call him Maui da Trickstah. But unda-neat’ da attatude, he was one good boy who loved his maddah. Dis wen’ happen in da Dark Ages of Hawai‘i, back when daytime was so short, nevah have time for finish all what you gotta do, befo’ come dark again. Even da plants was having hard time grow, ‘cause da sun nevah like hang around; he only like show off how fas’ he can race across da sky. Da Hawaiians would beg him fo’ slow down, but he no listen, he no care. Maui’s maddah, da goddess Hina, was all f’ustrated ‘cause she nevah could finish her kapa. Was hard work, poundin’ tree bark into cloth, an’ by da time she lay ‘em out fo’ dry, da sun run away again. Maui felt sorry for his maddah, so he wen’ go up Haleakalā fo’ take on da sun, all by himself. His maddah nevah like him go, but Maui was hard head, so finally she said OK, but he gotta ask his tutu, his gran’maddah, fo’ help. His tutu wen’ tell him what fo’ do, an’ she give him one magic stone fo’ make one axe. Maui wen’ make ropes from coconut fibahs, an’ he wen’ use ‘em fo’ catch da sun by da legs. Den he use his
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magic axe fo’, whatchoocall, not-so-gentle-kine persuasion, an’ he make da sun promise fo’ go mo’ slow from now on. Get all kine diff’rent versions, all t’roo da Sout’ Pacific. Some guys say Maui wen’ chop off mos’ of da sun’s legs, dass why da bugga go slow now. Odda guys say da two wen’ talk ‘em out an’ comprah-mise, so da sun get to move mo’ fas’, wintahtime. An’ if you look on da lef’ side when you comin’ down da baggage claim escalaytah at Kahului Airport, you can see da statue of Maui, holdin’ onto da sun’s legs wit’ his bare hands. No mattah what version you balieve, you gotta agree, Maui was one good son. Jus’ like my boy. Mine nevah rope da sun, but he put da light in my life. I bettah go make dat call. Maui native Kathy Collins (a.k.a. Tita) is an actress, storyteller, radio and TV personality, and cofounder of Mana‘o Radio. To hear Collins read her story as Tita, visit mauimagazine.net/maddahs-an-suns.
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