Kāʻanapali Magazine - Spring/Summer 2015

WH E R E T HE W ORL D COM E S T O P L AY

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 q YOUR FREE ISSUE

OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY-DATE II

rolex

oyster perpetual and day-date are trademarks.

Seasonal Whale Watching*

Maui’s Best Snorkeling

DINNER & SUNSET SAILS

Romantic Trade Wind Sail Assorted Gourmet Pupus, Antipasto Platter, Meatballs, Soft Drinks and Cocktails Dinner: Chicken, Fish & Salad

WEST MAUI SNORKEL SAIL

1 Pristine Snorkel Site, All Equipment Provided, Expert Instruction Complete Deli Style Lunch with Juice and Soft Drinks Trade Wind Sail Home with Open Bar

PREMIER SNORKEL SAIL

2 Pristine Snorkel Stops, All Equipment Provided, Continental Breakfast, Coffee, Full BBQ Lunch, Juice and Soft Drinks Sail Home with Open Bar

WHALE WATCHING

*December 15th through April 15th 4 Daily Whale Watches Experienced Naturalist on-board Hydrophone to hear the whales sing Sunset Whale Watches too!

Deluxe Snorkel, Whale Watch & Evening Sails Departing Daily from Kaanapali Beach

Fun for the entire family

Catered by award winning chef Paris Nabavi

Convenient loading from Kaanapali Beach

Call to Reserve Your Seats Now!

808-667-2704

All cruises depart from Kaanapali Beach fronting Leilani’s Restaurant.

Please visit www.teralani.net

The Best Seat On Kaanapali Beach Two distinctive dining experiences, from the twirling knives of talented chefs and volcanoes of fire at Teppan-yaki Dan to the sumptuous flame grilled favorites, craft brews and cocktails at Cliff Dive Grill, the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa has a table waiting for you to connect with friends and loved ones. Pull up a seat to watch the vibrant Kaanapali sun set and the cliff diver take his nightly plunge. Be amazed

DAN

and delighted.

For more information or reservations, call 808 921 4600 or visit sheraton-maui.com Facebook @sheratonmaui

Prices do not include tax and service charge/gratuity. An 18% service charge will be added to parties of 6 or more. Š2014 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Sheraton and its logo are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

Our Waterfall Collection comes in several styles and sizes and is available in 14K Yellow, White or Rose Gold

MAUI KAANAPALI: Whalers Village, 808-667-5411 • Hyatt Regency Maui, 808-667-7780 LAHAINA: 744 Front Street, across from the seawall, 808-661-5965 858 Front Street, across from Bubba Gump, 808-661-1219 • Lahaina Cannery, 808-661-1731 WAILEA: The Shops at Wailea, Upper level, 808-891-8040 • Grand Wailea Resort, 808-879-8336 KAHULUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center, 808-893-2110

NaHoku.com • 1-800-260-3912

�able of �ontents FEATURES Let Them Eat Algae 28

Kā‘anapali’s marine reserve is protecting the reef by protecting the fish.

Wayfinders 36

Navigating Earth’s largest ocean by celestial bodies and seabirds, winds and ocean swells

Tracking the Whales

42

Twenty-first-century technology may help keep humpbacks from becoming a thing of the past.

Kā‘anapali by the Numbers 46 How do we love this place where the world comes to play? Let us count the ways!

Games Golfers Play 70

Bingo Bango Boingo . . . Scramble . . .

Botengo. New spins on a classic game are redefining the golf experience.

A Little Slice of Heaven 72

Ever wonder how many strokes it takes to paddle the length of Kā‘anapali Beach? Find out on page 46.

8 Kā‘anapali Magazine

About our cover: It’s said the demigod Maui climbed to the top of Haleakalā to capture the sun. Maui photographer Jason Moore caught this sunset from the lawn at Kahekili Beach Park. You’ll find more of the area’s captivating images on page 28.

KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH RESORT ASSOCIATION/PETER LIU

Any way you cut it, the Maui onion is worth celebrating.

EXPERIENCE POLYNESIA

WAILELE POLYNESIAN LŪ‘AU Spectacular revue featuring the songs and dances of Hawai‘i and Polynesia, complemented by a lavish island-style buffet dinner and all-inclusive beverages.

Certificate of Excellence - Wailele Polynesian Luau by TripAdvisor TUESDAYS & THURSDAYS Oceanfront at the Aloha Pavilion Reservations Required. Additional shows during holiday season .

For schedule and ticket information, please call 808-661-2992 or visit westinmaui.com CRAFT FAIR More than 30 local vendors showcase treasured finds at our weekly craft fair.

Take home a special keepsake - from handcrafted jewelry to home décor, exquisite art pieces and more.Visit us Mondays, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., at the resort’s Aloha Pavilion.

2365 Ka‘anapali Parkway Lahaina, Hawai‘i 96761

Dates subject to change without notice.©2014 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. SPG, Preferred Guest, Westin and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

Hula Grill’s seafood carbonara pasta comes with kiawe-smoked bacon. Talk about your catch of the day! Page 60

DINING

Contributors 13

Alfresco Spa 68

A Word from the President 14

See Learn Do 74

We’re pleased to introduce some of the talented folks behind Kā‘anapali Magazine.

Meet Thomas Bell, president of Hawaiian Hotels & Resorts and current president of Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association.

Where . . . ? 16

Keep our resort map handy and find what you’re looking for.

Nīele 19

A hotel manager gives new meaning to “corporate culture” . . . uncovering an ancient Hawaiian village . . . a resort whose lean, green makeover is a model for sustainability . . . if we’ve sparked your nīele (curiosity), read on!

10 Kā‘anapali Magazine

It’s bliss in broad daylight at this oceanside massage.

Looking for adventures by land or sea?

Hawaiian culture or island history?

Whatever activities you’re into, you’ve come to the right place.

Calendar 80

Check here for special events and resort activities that don’t come along every day, plus a few of our favorite happenings around Maui.

 Black Rock Kitchen 54

Indoors or out, this Sheraton Maui restaurant brings an expansive view to dining.

 In the Kitchen 60

A conversation with Hula Grill’s Chef Bobby Masters

 Sensational Seafood 62

You’d expect a string of islands in the middle of the Earth’s largest ocean to have exceptional seafood. Dine at Kā‘anapali, and you’d be right.

 Dining Guide 64

Hungry? Whatever you’re in the mood for, you’ll find it at Kā‘anapali, just a beach walk away.

RYAN SIPHERS

DEPARTMENTS

mai tais at sunset This is no ordinary shopping center.

With 90 stores and restaurants, you can shop for beach gear and vacation keepsakes, enjoy a leisurely meal, and explore the whaling life at our Whale Museum – all just a few steps from the sand.

/ WhalersVillage

@WhalersVillage

Free WiFi

2435 Kaanapali Parkway, Maui | 808-661-4567 Open daily from 9:30am–10pm whalersvillage.com

ADMINISTRATIVE

Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association PUBLISHER

Haynes Publishing Group MANAGING EDITOR

Lehia Apana

CONSULTING EDITOR

Rita Goldman

ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER

John Giordani

ASSISTANT DESIGNER

Shelby Lynch

DIGITAL EDITOR

Adelle Lennox STYLE EDITOR

Conn Brattain

THE MAGAZINE FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE MAUI GET 6 ISSUES FOR ONLY $21 1 year - $21 (save 30%*) 2 years - $37 (save 38%*) 3 years - $53 (save 41%*) ORDER FROM OUR WEBSITE mauimagazine.net/subscribe

CALL 808-242-8331 BUY 2 YEARS AND SAVE $5 (Or spend it on your favorite mai tai.) *Off the newsstand price

PRODUCTION MANAGER

Harry Chang

CONTROLLER & OFFICE MANAGER

Kao Kushner

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Judy Edwards, Kyle Ellison, Teya Penniman, Marti Rosenquist, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere, Matthew Thayer, Catherine E. Toth CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Lehia Apana, Bob Bangerter, Cesere Brothers, Liz Foote, John Hyde, Jason Moore, Douglas Peebles, Ryan Siphers, Becky Speere, Matthew Thayer, Steve Thomas, Darla White, Martin Wyand DISTRIBUTION & CIRCULATION

Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. ADVERTISING SALES (808)

242-8331

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Michael Haynes, Angela Lammers, Laura Lewark E-MAIL ADDRESS info@mauimagazine.net

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, & The Shops at Wailea magazines

KĀ‘ANAPALI MAGAZINE is published semiannually by Haynes Publishing Group, Inc.,

90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; (808) 242-8331. ©2015 All rights reserved.

This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. Printed in USA Individual issues are available upon written request to Haynes Publishing Group, Inc., 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793, or by email: Orders@KaanapaliMagazine.com. Cost is $3 per magazine plus postage ($5.60 in the U.S. & Canada). Payments in U.S. currency only.

Kā‘anapali Magazine is produced in cooperation with Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association.

12 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Contributors

Cesere Brothers

Judy Edwards

Kyle Ellison

Jason Moore

Teya Penniman

Marti Rosenquist

Sarah Ruppenthal

Becky Speere

Matthew Thayer

Catherine E. Toth

The Cesere Brothers are living their dream, one that began when they were children playing in tide pools off the coast of Maine. It was in that frigid water that John and Dan made a pact to stick together, live on an island and pursue a career that enabled them to continue exploring the ocean they love.

Twenty-some years later, the Cesere brothers live on Maui and work fulltime as underwater photographers.

An intrepid world traveler, Marti has lived in West Maui for more than a decade, and is a frequent contributor to Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi and Kā‘anapali magazines. While her particular passion is seeking out the next great food trend, Marti happily ventured onto a different path in this issue, exploring Kā‘anapali’s outdoor spas.

A Hawai‘i writer and conservation professional, Judy is a fan of quiet heroes and meaningful, unsung work. ”An ongoing goal of mine is to shine some light on under-the-radar overachievers who are diligent, soulful and passionate.

Defending the integrity of the sacred and irreplaceable lands and waters of Hawai‘i is also my mission.” Reach her voicemail, and it will tell you she’s either at work, asleep, or in the water.

Sarah is an awardwinning journalist, freelance writer and instructor at University of Hawai‘i–Maui College. Her stories have appeared in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, FLUX, Hawai‘i Magazine, The Maui News and other regional publications. When she’s not grading papers or working on a story, Sarah is relaxing at home on Maui’s north shore with her husband, and 135-pound “puppy,” Odie.

A freelance writer who was raised in Upcountry Maui, Kyle has explored sixty-five countries.

His travel writing has appeared in AOL Travel, Journey, The Huffington Post, Gadling, AFAR, Viator, Escape and Maui Nō Ka ’Oi Magazine.

He is the author of the 2014 Moon Handbook to Maui, Moloka’i and Lāna’i.

The daughter of a Hawai‘i-born mother of Japanese ancestry and a father from an Alabama coal-mining town, Becky grew up on the Big Island amid a world of flavors: butter beans and ham hocks, bamboo shoots, fiddlehead ferns and wild-boar sausage.

The former owner of Pauwela Cafe in Ha‘ikū, Becky is a chef consultant and shares her passion for all things culinary as dining editor of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine.

With his deep love for the ocean, it’s no wonder photographer Jason Moore calls Hawai‘i’s waters home. Jason spends the winter working with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) as a research and rescue assistant for humpback whale research. When he’s not in the water or shooting on location, Jason shows his fineart photography as an artist in residence at the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea.

Matthew has been writing about golf on Maui for more than thirty years. The longtime staffer for The Maui News has won more than sixty state and national awards for his photography and writing. Matthew is also the author of the 30,000 B.C. Chronicles, a series of novels available online.

Teya first got hooked on island life and the waters around them working as a seabird biologist on a remote arctic sandspit. More islands and more bird studies followed, until her focus shifted to protecting and writing about native places. Teya’s article on new research into the migration patterns of humpback whales reflects both those passions.

Born and raised on O‘ahu, Catherine is a freelancer writer and blogger for various local and national publications, including Journey, Alaska Airlines Magazine, AOL Travel, Forbes Travel Guide, Fodor’s, Honolulu and Hawai‘i magazines. A former newspaper reporter, she continues to chronicle her food and travel adventures in her blog, TheCat Dish.com. She lives in Honolulu with her husband, their three dogs, and an extensive collection of surfboards.

Spring-Summer 2015 13

Letter from the

KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH RESORT ASSOCIATION

Aloha

On behalf of Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association, I am pleased to welcome you to Kā‘anapali Magazine, which celebrates the resort’s many world-class hotels, restaurants, spas, shops, and activities. We think you’ll find that its rich content captures the personality of the Kā‘anapali Resort experience.

Our first issue came out the year Kā‘anapali turned fifty, and looked back at the resort’s history, from its opening in 1963 as Hawai‘i’s first master-planned destination resort . . . to 2013, when TripAdvisor named our 1.6 miles of pristine white sand the Best Beach in America. The individuals who created Kā‘anapali may not have known how varied and playful the resort would become, but they accurately foresaw that the area’s natural beauty would be cherished by generations of tourists and locals alike.

This issue explores the art of wayfinding: how Polynesians traversed the Pacific more than a millennium ago, navigating by celestial bodies, seabirds, winds and ocean swells to reach the Hawaiian Islands—the most isolated archipelago in the world. We also dive into humpback-whale research, and what scientist Bruce Mate hopes to learn by satellite tagging humpbacks to follow their migration. Humpbacks are creatures near and dear to us; Kā‘anapali sits within the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary.

We hope you’ll enjoy reading Kā‘anapali Magazine cover to cover, and encourage you to take it with you as a souvenir. You can also visit our website, KaanapaliResort.com, for information on accommodations, activities, photography, rates, and much more.

Please let us know if we can assist you during your stay. We are confident that you will fall in love with Kā‘anapali Resort—celebrated worldwide as the place “Where the World Comes to Play”—and hope the memories of this vacation keep you coming back.

Mahalo,

Tom Bell President, Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association

Back issues of Kā‘anapali Magazine are available online.

Go to MauiMagazine.net/ Kaanapali and click the link “Free Digital Edition.”

14 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Make cherished memories at Maui’s most exciting lu‘au!

Immerse yourself in an evening of Polynesian culture with authentic songs, chants and dramatic dances, including the three-man Samoan fire-knife dance!

• Feast on kalua pig and traditional island specialties • Learn to hula with our skilled dancers • Enjoy local crafts and an island wear fashion show

Best Maui Lu‘au

‘Aipono Award Winner

“This is a classy lu‘au - excellent food, wonderful service and a most enjoyable show. Our family really enjoyed it. We highly recommend it.”

- TripAdvisor

For reservations and a FREE GIFT visit www.drumsofthepacificmaui.com and enter Special Offer Code KAANAPALI. Or call Hyatt Concierge at 808.667.4727.

200 NOHEA KAI DRIVE KA’ANAPALI

Free Gift Offer available with online reservations only. A Tihati Production. The trademark HYATT and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2015 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.

Resort Map O

Pu‘ukoli‘i Road

Honoapi’ilani Highway

A

30

B

Keka’a

Drive

D



Kai Ala Drive

C

P

V

N

D

E

Beachwalk

NORTH

I A‘

N

LĀ

O

M

‘I KA

LO

Hotels & Condos A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H. I. J. K. L.

The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas Royal Lahaina Resort Maui Eldorado KaanapaliSM by Outrigger® Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel Aston at The Whaler on Kaanapali Beach The Westin Maui Resort & Spa Kaanapali Alii Resort Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa Kā‘anapali Royal

Activities

Your concierge will be happy to provide a full list of resortwide attractions. Here’s a sample:

F. Kupanaha Magic Dinner Theater M. Kā‘anapali Golf Courses Clubhouse N. Skyline Eco Adventures O. Sugar Cane Train’s Pu‘ukoli‘i Station P. Kahekili Park & Keka‘a Beach Q. Nightly Sunset Cliff Dive Ceremony R. Beach Activities of Maui S. UFO Parasail T. Whaling Museum 16 Kā’anapali Magazine

Beach Activities of Maui Locations: Aston at The Whaler on Kaanapali Beach Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club Royal Lahaina Resort Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas The Westin Maui Resort & Spa

Dining

Beach Bar (H) Beach Walk & Kau Kau to Go (J) Black Rock Kitchen (E) Castaway Café (B) China Bowl (V) CJ’s Deli & Diner (V) Cliff Dive Grill (E) Colonnade Café (H) Hank’s Haute Dogs (E) Honolulu Coffee Company (K) Hula Grill & Barefoot Bar (W) Island Press Coffee (V) Japengo (K) Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room (J) Kai Ala Market (A) Leilani’s on the Beach (W) Mai Tai Bar (E) Maui Fish & Pasta (W) Ocean Pool Bar & Grill (A)

Pailolo Bar & Grill (A) Paradise Grill (U) Pūlehu, an Italian Grill (A) Pu‘ukoli‘i General Store (A) Relish Burger Bistro (H) Relish Oceanside (H) Round Table Pizza (V) Roy’s Kā‘anapali (M) Royal Ocean Terrace Restaurant & Lounge (C) Royal Scoop (C) Sangrita Grill + Cantina (V) Sea Dogs Snack Bar (H) Son’z Steakhouse (K) Starbucks (J) Teppan-yaki Dan (E) Tiki Bar & Grill (F) Tiki Terrace Restaurant (F) ‘Ūmalu (K) Whalers Village Food Court (W) Wiki Grinds (E)

Q

Spas & Salons

Alii Spa (I) Hale Mana Wellness Center (J) Heavenly Spa by Westin* (H) Hina Mana Salon & Spa (G) Kamaha‘o, a Marilyn Monroe Spa* (K) The Spa at Black Rock* (E) Spa Helani, a Heavenly Spa

by Westin* (A) * Full spa (wet and dry therapies)

Lu¯‘au

Drums of the Pacific Lū‘au (K) Legends of Kā‘anapali Lū‘au (F) Maui Nui Lū‘au at Black Rock (E) The Myths of Maui Lū‘au (C) Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au (H)

INA

Kā’anapali Beach Resort Association

Keka ’a

A LAH

L

M

I

3M

U

Drive

K F

Kā’a na

pali

G T

Park w

ay

W

R

H

Artistic Nails & Spa China Bowl CJ’s Deli & Diner Edward Jones The Hair Hale Harris Hawaii Realty Island Attitudes Furnishings & Design Island Press Coffee OneMain Financial Round Table Pizza

Sangrita Grill + Cantina Skyline Eco Adventures The Snorkel Store Spa Juva & FitExpress Urgent Care West Maui Valley Isle Fitness Center VanQuaethem Chiropractic Wells Fargo Home Mortgage Whalers General Store Whalers Realty

W. Whalers Village Shopping Center APPAREL Billabong Blue Ginger Blue Ginger Kids Cinnamon Girl Crazy Shirts Cruise Flip Flop Shops Honolua Surf Co. Hula Honeys Jams World Kahala Lani’s Lululemon Athletica Maggie Coulombe

Malibu Shirts Maui Resort Wear Maui WaterWear PacSun Quiksilver/Roxy Soul Lei T-Shirt Factory Tommy Bahama Tori Richard Volcom BOUTIQUE Coach Louis Vuitton

I

J

Beachwalk

S

Shopping V. Fairway Shops at Kā‘anapali

rive

ai D ea K

Noh

JEWELRY Baron & Leeds Dolphin Galleries Jewelry Glass Mango Design Jessica’s Gems Maui Divers Jewelry Na Hoku Pandora Pearl Factory Swarovski Crystals Whalers Fine Jewelry SUNDRY ABC Stores GIFT, ART, SPECIALTY Brighton Collectibles Chapel Hats Crocs Crystal Rainbows Honolulu Cookie Company Imauination Island Cutie Lahaina Scrimshaw Martin & MacArthur Maui Toy Works Oakley Sand People

Sandal Tree Sephora Sunglass Hut Totally Hawaiian Gift Gallery The Walking Company SERVICES Maui Dive & Surf on the Beach REAL ESTATE Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club Monte D. Fitts, Realtors Whalers Realty Inc. SPECIALTY FOOD Häagen-Dazs Island Vintage Coffee Surfy Turtle Shave Ice & Smoothies Yogurtland FOOD COURT Fresh . . . Eat Well, Live Well Nikki’s Pizza Ruby’s Dinette Subway

Shops at Westin Maui ~ H The Shops at the Hyatt ~ K Royal Trading Company ~ C

Public Parking

Medical Services

Beach Access

Kā‘anapali Trolley

Kā‘anapali Trolley Tel: (808) 667-0648 Kā‘anapali area only. Travel complimentary among Kā‘anapali hotels, golf course, Whalers Village Shopping Center, and Fairway Shops.

ADA lifts. Runs from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.

Maui Public Transit (Roberts) Shuttle Tel: (808) 871-4838 From Whalers Village Shopping Center in Kā‘anapali, ride to Kapalua Resort, Lahaina Cannery Mall or Wharf Cinema Center in Lahaina, or Walmart/Kmart in Kahului. $1–$2 between each point (Call for details.)

DISTANCES

Hyatt to Golf Course........................... 0.5 Mile Hyatt to Whalers Village..................... 0.5 Mile Hyatt to Sheraton................................ 1 Mile Sheraton to Golf Course..................... 1 Mile Hyatt to Royal Lahaina........................ 1.5 Miles Royal Lahaina to Golf Course.............. 1.5 Miles Kā‘anapali to Lahaina (Banyan Tree)... 3 Miles Kā‘anapali to Kapalua Airport............. 3.5 Miles Kā‘anapali to Kahului Airport.............. 26 Miles Spring/Summer 2015 17

(CURRENT - for reference)

Reservations: (808)667-0124 *Tuesday - Sunday

N¯ıele

CULTURE

Volunteers literally travel off the beaten path along a dusty cane-haul road to reach Honokōwai, a valley that’s a short drive but a world away from Kā‘anapali’s luxury hotels. Here Puanani Lindsey and her son Ekoku (pictured below) lead efforts to restore a once-thriving Hawaiian village.

Returning to Their Roots

STORY BY KYLE ELLISON

Across three generations, this Hawaiian family is working to restore a culture. They could use your help.

It’s a hot, sunny Saturday morning, yet my entire body is covered in goose bumps as Puanani Lindsey, a soft-spoken grandmother, powerfully chants a Hawaiian oli that echoes through Honokōwai Valley. Earlier that morning, her words had been gentle as she greeted volunteers at the Pu‘ukoli‘i train station above Kā‘anapali Beach Resort. Now, with our small group holding hands for the morning pule, or prayer, I am awestruck at how such a powerful chant just emerged from such a small frame.

She invites Ka‘elo, her fifteen-year-old grandson, and two of his classmates, to take over. Though hesitant, the trio quietly finishes the oli.

That’s when Ekolu, Ka‘elo’s father, offers advice: “Plant your two feet on the ground,” he says, “and then just let it rip. All the chants you learn in school—this is where they’re put into practice.”

Ekolu is Puanani’s son and president of the Maui Cultural Lands group that is restoring this valley. He sees Honokōwai as an outdoor classroom for learning about culture and self.

It hasn’t always been this way.

When Hawaiians first inhabited this valley in the early thirteenth century, a stream flowed unimpeded from the mountain down to the sea. Water was plentiful for growing taro and an abundance of native crops, and more than 600 families thrived here.

In the early twentieth century, however, commercial sugar planters diverted the water for their thirsty crop. By 1930, after a final effort to haul water in by Summer-Fall 2015 19

“Come Chase some Rainbows with us!”

FRIENDLY TRAIL GUIDES A GREAT TIME FOR ALL AGES!

A Maui Cultural Lands truck takes volunteers into the valley on a road that would dismay your rental-car company.

Accommodations are rustic, and the work is hard—just what you’d expect of the job of restoring a culture. Below, right: The grassroots organization relies on the sweat equity of volunteers, a mix of residents and visitors.

AMAZING VIEWS OF LANAI & SUNSETS All rides take you along the foothills of the West Maui Mountains. You will be treated to extraordinary views of Molokai, Lahaina Town & Lahaina Harbor.

We ride into Launiupoko Valley where we dismount for refreshments at our picnic table which is perched upon a ridge situated next to an acre large pond fed by clear, cool mountain stream water.

“THE BEST

HORSEBACK RIDE ON MAUI”

Ask our guests on TripAdvisor Book Direct At:

mauihorse.com Or Call Us Today:

808.667.2222 20 Kā‘anapali Magazine

hand, Honokōwai residents walked out of a valley where they’d lived for 800 years.

Fast-forward to 1999, when retired schoolteacher Ed Lindsey began to clean the place up. Lindsey recognized the cultural resource that was buried in Kā‘anapali’s backyard, and he founded Maui Cultural Lands to bring the valley—and culture—back.

For ten years, Lindsey worked tirelessly to clear the valley of invasive flora and replant native species. Before his death in 2009, he handed the reins to his son, Ekolu.

“At the time,” says Ekolu, now carrying a tarp full of weeds, “I just wanted to surf. But when I saw students and volunteers all paying tribute to my dad, and sharing the same messages of aloha, ‘ike [knowledge], mālama [to take care of], and ‘āina [the land], I knew this had to continue.”

Shooting a glance across the valley, Ekolu directs Ka‘elo and his friends to an area in need of weeding. “Just be careful around those walls,” he says. “They’re almost 800 years old.”

A few yards away, Puanani is clearing weeds near the stones of an inland fishpond, continuing the work that she says her husband wanted to see done.

“If we don’t,” she asks as she looks around the valley, “then who will?”

Indeed, I see enormous progress from five years ago, when I first volunteered in the valley, and with every patch of brush that’s cleared, a small piece of ancient knowledge is waiting to be discovered.

“Look at this kukui hele pō,” exclaims Ekolu, as he reaches for a fistsized rock. “We found it sitting right by the streambed. This side just looks like a rock, [but] when you turn it over you see where a kukui nut can fit and be burned as a lantern.” As if on cue, the nahua wind that is endemic to this valley rustles the leaves above, and Ekolu covers his head with his arms as an oil-rich kukui nut falls to the ground.

Ekolu believes it’s the actual work of restoring the valley that has the greatest impact on the future.

LEHIA APANA

HONEYMOON & PRIVATE RIDES AVAILABLE

JASON MOORE

“This grounds you in who you are,” he explains. “By taking care of the land, you take care of yourself. It’s creating a connection between person and place.” Ekolu believes that sharing this concept with visitors can awaken curiosity in their own cultural heritage, and encourages them to “ground themselves in their own land—wherever that may be.

“There is a saying,” he continues: “‘I ka wā mamua, ka wā mahope’— the future can be found in the wisdom of the past.’ And over there,” he nods at Ka‘elo, who is listening as Puanani explains the native plants, “that’s going to be our future.”  To volunteer in Honokōwai Valley, meet in the Pu‘ukoli‘i train-station parking lot on Saturdays at 9 a.m. The lot is across the street from The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas. (See map on page 16.) The workday ends at 2:30 p.m. Bring water, lunch, sunscreen and a hat, and wear sturdy shoes and clothes you won’t mind getting dirty in. All are welcome. For details, visit MauiCulturalLands.org.

Spring/Summer 2015 21

N¯ıele

PEOPLE

Bringing Culture to His Office

It’s 6 a.m. on New Year’s Day. In the stillness before dawn, a crowd has gathered on Kā‘anapali Beach to meet Fred Torres.

Dressed in a ceremonial kīhei (cape), he blows a conch shell and guides the group into the surf, chanting E ala e (“arise”).

This is the annual hi‘uwai ceremony at Kaanapali Alii Resort.

Hi‘uwai (“to cleanse in seawater”) is a purification rite meant to wash away a year’s worth of worry, stress or grief.

Fred is Kaanapali Alii’s operations manager, as well as its cultural advisor. When he’s not leading Hawaiian rituals, he oversees the operations of this 264-unit, eight-acre property.

Fred introduced hi‘uwai to guests and employees in 2010. “It felt like something was missing; we needed to offer an authentic Hawaiian cultural experience,” he recalls. “I thought this would fill the void.” It has. Since the first hi‘uwai, turnout has increased significantly; Fred added a second ceremony on Easter Sunday last year. “It has changed peoples’ lives,” he says. “I see tears of joy and appreciation.”

Fred envisioned the ceremony as a way to start the New Year off right, and to share the aloha of the Islands. His objective is to send visitors home with something they can’t find in a hotel gift shop. “I’m a steward of this land. It’s my responsibility to create cultural awareness for our guests,” he says. “It’s my hope that they will share it with others when they return home.”

This pay-it-forward philosophy also extends to the 100-plus employees of Kaanapali Alii. With thirty years in the visitor industry, Fred easily maintains a corporate culture, but it’s influenced by Hawaiian values like kuleana (personal responsibility), laulima (working together), kōkua (care) and ‘ohana (family).

Shortly after he arrived at Kaanapali Alii, Fred implemented Service First, an employee training program based on E ho‘okela i ka mana‘olana i nā malihini āpau i nā manawa āpau loa: “To exceed the expectations of every guest, every time.” Fred says the program emphasizes the importance of working together in harmony, helping others without being asked, being accountable for individual responsibilities, and respecting the role of family—both at work and at home. “It’s a team effort,” he says.

“We take every opportunity to express the spirit of aloha.”

An O‘ahu native, Fred moved to Maui in 1992, and studied with several well-known kūpuna (elders), who taught him Hawaiian history, language, values and practices. Since then, he’s been sharing that knowledge with anyone who expresses interest. Guests of Kaanapali Alii may be here to unwind and relax, but Fred says he encounters many who are deeply curious about the host culture and its traditions. Besides conducting the hi‘uwai ceremony, Fred hosts storytelling sessions and teaches kids how to play the ‘ukulele. “I share a message of aloha with everyone I meet,” he says. “I want others to know who we are as a people—not about our ethnicity, but what‘s in our hearts.”

22 Kā‘anapali Magazine

JASON MOORE

STORY BY SARAH RUPPENTHAL

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N¯ıele

LEADERSHIP

Hyatt Takes the LEED At the Hyatt’s pool, you can swim up to the bar—but the real beauty of this aquatic playground is the way it heats the water.

You could be forgiven for not noticing all the ways the Hyatt Regency Maui is helping to save the planet; the hotel has worked for more than a decade to reduce its environmental footprint without diminishing the guest experience. Those efforts will be harder to ignore now that the Hyatt is the first resort hotel in Hawai‘i (and only the third in the U.S.) to receive the U.S. Green Building Council’s LEED EBOM certification.

LEED has become a familiar acronym; it stands for “Leadership in Energy & Environmental Design.” EBOM is short for “Existing Buildings: Operations & Maintenance,” and if it’s less familiar, that’s because it’s a lot harder to earn, says Gary Bulson, the hotel’s senior engineer. It entails retrofitting structures that may have been built decades before sustainability became an issue, and focuses how those buildings are run. Unlike LEED for new construction, EBOM requires recertification every five years.

Piece of cake. The Hyatt’s been working on sustainability since 2001, when the hotel started replacing incandescent lights with compact fluorescents, and later LEDs (light-emitting diodes). In 2003, the Hyatt won a national competition for energy efficiency: “We grab heat from the air-conditioning units to heat the swimming pools,” Bulson explains.

“That’s half a million dollars a year in energy savings.”

Each year, the Hyatt saves six million gallons of water from reducedflow showerheads in all guest rooms. “We can change them if a guest complains,” says Bulson, but so far, the showerheads are a success. “Our general manager lives on the property, and got to check out the showerheads first,” Bulson adds with a grin. “We experiment on him a lot.”

24 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Stay at the Hyatt, and you’re likely to notice such eco-friendly improvements as complimentary digital newspapers, in-room recycling bins, and motion detectors that turn off the air conditioning when you open the door to your lānai.

“We’ve reduced the number of plastic water bottles we send to the landfill by 80,000,” says Hyatt Marketing Manager Jessica Kapoor. “We give a souvenir bottle, instead. That idea came from our Regency Club staff. Our green team has representatives from every department.”

Other practices are less obvious. Unless you ask, you might not know that the Hyatt donates half a million pounds of food scraps to local pig farms every year, that Housekeeping uses green cleaning products, or that the Neptune-Benson filter keeps the hotel’s pool water twenty times cleaner while using 40 percent less energy.

But others are taking notice. Last October, when the Hyatt celebrated its LEED award, Maui Mayor Alan Arakawa commended the hotel’s management and staff, adding that representatives from ten island nations have come to look at the kinds of sustainable practices the Hyatt and like-minded Maui entities are adopting.

John Bendon, whose consulting firm Green Building Hawai‘i helped guide the Hyatt to certification, noted that, “This opens the way for other resorts.” It’s a concept Allen Farwell, Hyatt Regency Maui’s general manager, emphasized in announcing the award. “We don’t want to own this alone,” Farwell said. “We want everyone to do it.”

Learn more about the Hyatt’s sustainability efforts at https://maui.hyatt.com/en/ hotel/news-and-events/news-listing/LeedEbomCertification.html.

Left to right: John Bendon, head of Green Building Hawai‘i; Mayor Alan Arakawa; Gary Bulson, senior engineer; Allen Farwell, Hyatt Regency Maui’s general manager; and Rick Werber, senior vice president for engineering and sustainability at Host Hotels & Resorts, Hyatt Regency Maui’s parent company

TOP: (2) HYATT REGENCY MAUI RESORT & SPA; BOTTOM: GREEN BUILDING HAWAI‘I

STORY BY RITA GOLDMAN

Oceanfront Luau on K Ka-‘anapali Beach

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26 Kā‘anapali Magazine

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Louis Vuitton’s Lockme handbag is made of soft and supple calfskin. The real beauty? It’s as practical as it is stylish. The monogrammed purse easily holds A4-size documents, the front pouch expands, there are two smartphone pockets, and the leather side laces can be tightened or loosened to adjust capacity. Price on request at Louis Vuitton in Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway, 808-667-6114, LouisVuitton.com

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Wave If You Love Diamonds

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High-quality printing transforms work by island artist Charlie Lyon into acetate frames that retain his painting’s true hues. The MauiPure® lenses are ultralight, scratch and impact resistant, and injection molded for the clearest optics next to glass. 100% UV protection. Styles and prices vary (shown: GS280-51 in the You Move Me collection). At the Sunglass Hut in the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Drive, 808-661-6736 Martin & MacArthur’s master craftsmen create cutting boards from solid koa grown on Hawai‘i Island. Exclusive designs— classic longboard (shown), canoe paddle, honu (sea turtle) and pineapple—reflect the kama‘āina lifestyle and make them a perfect souvenir or a gift any local would love. Longboards are $119 each. At Martin & MacArthur in Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway, 808-667-7422; and The Westin Maui, 2635 Kā‘anapali Parkway, 808-270-0880; MartinAndMacarthur.com Na Hoku’s Ultimate Wave pendant takes an elegant spin with shimmer and pavé diamonds in 14K yellow gold on an 18” yellow-gold chain. Also available in 14K white or rose gold.

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These happy tails are the latest shape in Honolulu Cookie Company’s Whale Collection. Twelve flavors include pineapple macadamia, chocolate-dipped macadamia, and whitechocolate Kona coffee. $15 wrap box (shown) has 12 cookies, fours flavors; $22 gift box has 24 cookies, eight flavors. At Honolulu Cookie Company in Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway, 808-661-8248, HonoluluCookie.com

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Vintage glass fishing floats inspired the bottle design for Ocean Vodka’s premium organic vodka. 750ML bottle is $35 at Royal Trading Company in Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Drive, 808-661-3611; and Whalers General Store at the Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Drive, 808-661-1050, OceanVodka.com Chanel’s high-tech J12 ceramic-and-steel watch has a guilloche dial, diamond bezel (69 diamonds, .6 ctw) and seconds counter (68 diamonds, .1 ctw), self-winding movement and 42-hour power reserve. It’s water-resistant to 100 meters, with no limit to its timeless style. Price on request at Baron & Leeds in Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway, 808-661-6806, BaronAndLeeds.com

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Spring-Summer 2015 27

Let Them Story by judy edwards Photography by jason moore

This school of grazing convict tang (one of many types of surgeonfish) is a welcome sight for a reef stressed by invasive algae.

28 KÄ â€˜anapali Magazine

Eat algae Kā‘anapali’s marine reserve is protecting the reef by protecting the fish.

Spring-Summer 2015 29

At the north end of Kā‘anapali Beach Resort, between the Aston Maui Kā‘anapali Shores and the Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, sits Kahekili Beach Park, named for Maui’s last, heroic king. For the past five years, Kahekili has also given its name to a marine management area that stretches from Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock) north to Honokōwai Beach Park.

In the memories of Mauians, the reef at Kahekili has always been exceptional. Coral, the stuff of reefs, grows copiously here in mounds and plates and fingers, in cauliflower shapes and nubbly flats. Though it looks like rock, coral is a tiny, flowerlike animal, one that forms colonies that grow over rocks and other hard surfaces, carpeting the floor of the nearshore ocean. In many places, everything beneath you in nearshore waters is alive—and fragile—which is why the only good place to stand in the ocean is on sand.

At Kahekili, the reef unfolds in undulating fields of green and yellow and patches of blue with hints of pink here and there. For as long as anyone could remember, it grew abundantly and created bed and breakfast for countless fishes, urchins, eels, octopuses, and marine snails.

Without the reef, ever growing, there is nowhere for many fishes to take shelter, and for many of them, nothing to eat. Indeed, the Hawaiian creation story, the Kumulipo, states that the firstborn of all creation was the coral animal, or polyp. On the back of that small, translucent creature was built the world.

In the 1990s, as development grew, snorkelers and divers, fishers and swimmers—residents and visitors alike—came to Kahekili in increasing numbers. Scientists like Dr. Eric Brown, of the Pacific Whale Foundation and later the University of Hawai‘i at Mānoa, Russell Sparks of the state’s Above left: Fingers and lobes of porites coral at Kahekili have degraded and collapsed into identifiable ”dead zones“; all the brown here is dead coral.

Left: This redlip parrotfish is one of several varieties that are contributing to the rehabilitation of the reef.

30 Kā‘anapali Magazine

TOP: LIZ FOOTE; MIDDLE: DARLA WHITE

Scores of juvenile parrotfish swarm the coral heads, feasting on invasive algae.

Kahekili Herbivore Fisheries Management Area stretches from the Sheraton side of Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock) north to Honokōwai Beach Park.

Honokōwai Beach Park 

Kahekili Beach Park 

Division of Aquatic Resources, and Dr. Ivor Williams (then at DAR, now with the National Oceanographic & Atmospheric Administration) started to keep a closer eye on the reef. Those observations continue today as part of the Coral Reef Assessment and Monitoring Program, based at the Hawai‘i Institute of Marine Biology. The program’s acronym, CRAMP, owes a great deal to Dr. Brown’s legendary dry sense of humor.

By 2000, research showed that the reef was suffering from runaway growth of native and nonnative algae. A seaweed, algae can grow very rapidly, overwhelming corals and killing them. From the data, it looked like half the coral off Kahekili had been choked out this way in only fifteen years. Says researcher Darla White, who joined Russell Sparks in 2007, “The reef had been subject to algal ‘blooms’ by two species, Acanthophora spicifera [invasive] and Cladophora sericea [native], and they were smothering the reef. And worse, it looked like the numbers of algae-eating fish species were far lower than they should have been, with some, like parrotfish [uhu], at 10 percent of the numbers found in protected areas.” Sparks notes, “This is important, because uhu are incredibly good at scraping algae and keeping the reef clean.”

Then, researchers at the University of Hawai‘i demonstrated that the fishes at this site preferred the invasive algae to native algae. And an idea was born.

In 2009, with the fervent support of local fishing families, Hawai‘i’s Department of Aquatic Resources created the Kahekili Herbivore Fisheries Management Area. (Herbivorous fish are those that eat seaweeds.)

Says White, “From the start, Russell went to the local fishing families to let them know what was happening. They were willing to sacrifice to protect the habitat and the future fishing resources of the area.”

Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association has also been a supporter.

The rules of the management area are simple: within its bounds, do not take any fish that eat algae. That means the lovely, brightly colored parrotfishes with their scraping teeth and flirtatious expressions, the

Pu‘u Keka‘a 

Spring-Summer 2015 31

Long-spined, collector and red-pencil urchins litter the reef floor, munching algae off the coral.

The firstborn of creation was the coral animal, the polyp. On the back of that small, translucent creature was built the world.

At Kahekili Beach Park (also known as “North Beach” or “Airport Beach”), the reef begins close to the shoreline. Take care when entering the water.

32 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Left: This orangespine unicornfish is another of the surgeonfish whose population helps protect the reef. Right: A close-up of coral reveals the delicate surface of the living creature. Turf algae crawling over the colony is killing it; the bright pink is a stress response of the coral.

many varieties of surgeonfishes with their wickedly bladed tails, and the rudderfishes Hawaiians call nenue. The rules also protect sea urchins, those spiky balls tucked all over the reef like so many Star Trek tribbles, their mouths on the bottom of their bodies. Urchins munch algae like nobody’s business. Says Sparks, “This was a first-of-its-kind strategy to turn the tide on reef decline using the natural preferences of herbivorous fishes and urchins to help restore balance on the reef.”

Liz Foote, executive director of Maui’s Project S.E.A.-Link, had been working with the Department of Aquatic Resources to develop a reef etiquette sign—one that is now seen at more than fifty places around the island. The department was looking for volunteers to do in-water fish surveys, especially on what the fish were eating. Foote’s volunteers were already doing citizen science through REEF surveys (which count numbers of fish and types of species) and REEFcheck (which looks at how well the coral is doing and takes a more detailed look at the animals on the reef). Many of these volunteers signed on to help the department.

With the management area established, Project S.E.A.-Link launched Makai Watch. “Makai” is Hawaiian for “towards the sea,” and Foote explains

it as a sort of underwater Neighborhood Watch. Community volunteers work to raise public awareness, and report suspected violations to law enforcement. Foote also began working with Kā‘anapali hotel managers to engage and educate their guests. “Some visitors do want to fish, and then there’s the issue of fish feeding [forbidden in the management area], and of involving water-sports companies and conveying what the rules are,” says Foote. “Everybody needs, and wants, a healthy reef.”

Now, five years after designation and protection of this imperiled reef, the Department of Aquatic Resources reports that the sheer biomass of parrotfishes has increased an astounding 135 percent. Surgeonfish biomass is up 40 percent. Foote adds, “If we are really serious about conservation on a large and on an individual scale, I think it’s possible to reverse a decline and revert to abundance and sustainability. You have to be optimistic. Eventually I’d like to see abundance of fishes from the apex predators on down.”

Before you dive in to play in the waters off this northern stretch of Kā‘anapali Beach, take time to learn about the area. Read the signs, and make yourself aware of any regulations—for example, know that

TOP RIGHT: DARLA WHITE

A school of whitebar surgeonfish glides above the coral.

Spring-Summer 2015 33

Since Kahekili’s designation as a protected area, fish populations are up, as this school of orangespine unicornfish can attest.

feeding fish is illegal in the management area (and it’s a good idea not to do it anywhere in the world). Foote also recommends visitors ask their concierge or water-sports activity companies what is and isn’t responsible behavior. And look for the stainless-steel literature boxes that Makai Watch volunteers attached to some of the signs at the beach for easy access to good information.

Depending on when you visit, any one of the following may be happening at the beach, and you can join in: land and water cleanups, water-quality monitoring demonstrations, volunteer potlucks, or the yearly birthday bash that raises awareness of the management area and features a wacky ocean-themed culinary contest. You may find yourself answering beachgoer-awareness surveys run by earnest, sweet kids from local youth groups and charter-school classes, kids whose immediate future really does depend on healthy reefs. The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas holds a beach cleanup on New Year’s Day, the 4th of July, and once in September for the International Coastal Cleanup initiative.

Says Foote, “We hope to help the resorts create even more chances for visitors to be a part of citizen-science efforts such as fish surveys or water-quality monitoring. I’ve been hearing more from the volunteers about bigger fish and bigger schools, and then DAR [the Division of Aquatic Resources] started getting upward trends in the data. . . . In May, I actually saw a school of 1,000 parrotfish. This is really a special area, and all of us can play a stewardship role through our own actions. When you’re in the water here, you’re a part of it.” 34 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Urchins play a vital role in removing algae from the reef, creating space for new life to settle. The yellow circle marks an area the urchin above has just cleaned of algae.

MIDDLE STRIP: LIZ FOOTE; BOTTOM: DARLA WHITE

From left: Look for informative signs throughout the resort. An annual birthday bash raises awareness of the management area, and features a whimsical, oceanthemed culinary contest. Darla White explains the plight of the reef through site visits and snorkel tours. A party hat celebrates another successful year.

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STORY

BY

JUDY

EDWARDS

|

PHOTOGRAPHY

BY

DOUGLAS

PEEBLES

MICRONESIA

Wa y F I N D E R S

36 Kā‘anapali Magazine

H AWA I ‘ I

NAVIGATING EARTH’S LARGEST OCEAN BY CELESTIAL BODIES AND SEABIRDS, WINDS AND OCEAN SWELLS SAMOA

TA H I T I TO N G A

R A PA N U I

NEW ZEALAND

Spring-Summer 2015 37

Thousands of years before Europeans began their first tentative ventures

beyond coastal waters, Polynesians were exploring the vast Pacific. They settled the islands of Tonga, Fiji and Samoa, and along the way, engineered some of the finest open-ocean sailing vessels ever seen.

Aboard double-hulled voyaging canoes, Polynesians arrived in Hawai‘i, becoming farmers and fishers, warriors and kings—a people descended from what current-day navigator and Hawaiian son Nainoa Thompson called “the astronauts of our ancestors, the greatest explorers on the face of the Earth.”

Unlike the single-hulled ships of Europe, the Polynesian double-hulled canoe was light and fast. It ranged in length from 50 to 100 feet, with twin hulls that were each carefully hollowed and shaped from a single log, connected by a deck with one or more masts for the sails. People and provisions could be sheltered in the hulls for long journeys. Food swam all around in the sea. And the weather, if benevolent, added to water stores.

These explorers had no tools for wayfinding but their minds—no sextant or magnetic compass, no GPS. Instead, they watched celestial bodies in the night sky, listened to the winds, felt the swells slap against, and move under, the wooden hulls. The flight of seabirds, behavior of clouds, patterns in the Above: The first Polynesian voyaging canoe built in modern times, Hōkūle‘a has become a metaphor for Hawai‘i’s cultural renaissance.

38 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Nā Leo

Haka

Haka

Nā Leo

ĀKAU NORTH

Nālani

Nālani Manu

Manu N HO O ’O RT L HW UA ES T

‘Āina

U T LA S ‘ O HE A KO RT O N

Noio

Noio ‘Āina Lā

Lā HIKINA EAST

KOMOHANA WEST Lā

Lā

M SO A UT L A HE NA AS I T

‘Āina Noio

T A N ES KO HW UT

SO

ocean and in the air informed their sense of where land might be. They lived off the ocean the way farmers live off the land, in tune with everything around them, embedded in the pulse of the sea and the sky. A sky that, at night, gave them the star compass.

“The tradition of the oceanic star compass extends from Micronesia to Saudi Arabia, between the same [tropical] latitudes,” says Chad Kālepa Baybayan, navigator in residence at the ‘Imiloa Astronomy Center in Hilo. “No telling if it’s one system that diffused [throughout the South Pacific] or if everyone figured it out on their own, but the use of the same stars makes me think the former.”

The colonization of the Pacific in the 1700s by Europeans in their single-hulled ships was so swift and total that the art and science of traditional Polynesian migration were obliterated in the Polynesian Triangle—that vast area bounded by Rapa Nui (Easter Island) in the east, Hawai‘i in the north, and Aotearoa (New Zealand) in the south—in just a few generations. The decline was so dramatic that theorists began to deny that deliberate Pacific navigation by the ancients had ever been possible.

In the 1970s, in response to theories that the Pacific Islands had been settled by accident or a stroke of luck, the Polynesian Voyaging Society of Hawai‘i built a sixty-foot voyaging canoe, a hybrid of natural and modern materials.

They named the vessel Hōkūle‘a (“Star of Gladness,” a reference to Arcturus, brightest star in the Northern Hemisphere and the guiding star for Hawaiian navigators). With the help of one of the last traditional Polynesian navigators in the world, a man from Satawal named Mau Piailug, they sailed Hōkūle‘a to Tahiti and back in triumph in 1976.

Four years later, mentored by Mau, the Society did it again. Chad Baybayan was aboard.

“When I sailed in 1980 it was like stepping back in a time machine,” he recalls. “The black silhouette of a crabclaw sail against the starry backdrop . . . at that moment you are as close to your ancestors as possible—the same stars, same shape of the sails, the rise and fall of the canoe, the wind in your face, the chill of the night air. It is incredibly romantic and dynamic, metaphorical and poetic.

“You always sense that there’s a presence out there with you; at least I do, and I live and I work in the shadow of my ancestors. But I’m not focused on it. I’m very attentive to the situation at hand, and I make decisions based upon my instinct. Experience becomes memory and memory becomes instinct.”

Between 1985 and 1987, the Society sailed Hōkūle‘a surely and steadily around the islands of the Pacific and back to Hawai‘i, putting to rest finally and forever the idea that the movement of Polynesians around the Pacific was anything less than masterful and deliberate. In so doing, they resurrected a dormant and wounded Hawaiian pride and brought about a cultural renaissance that continues to flower in every corner of the Polynesian Triangle.

“Western mariners use the magnetic compass to set direction,” says Baybayan. “The needle identifies magnetic north. We use the rising and setting of celestial bodies, and then the direction of the waves and the wind to help orient the compass. The winds are changeable, but they shift

Manu

‘Āina Noio

Manu HEMA SOUTH

Nālani Nā Leo

Haka

Nālani Haka

Nā Leo

Star Compass The star compass Polynesians use to traverse the vast Pacific divides the horizon into four houses aligned with the cardinal directions: hikina (east), komohana (west), akua (north) and hema (south). Each house subdivides into eight sections, creating a compass with thirty-two divisions in all.

“The compass focuses on the rising and setting points of the sun,” says Chad Kālepa Baybayan, navigator in residence at Hilo’s ‘Imiloa Astronomy Center. “Everything arrives on one horizon—east—crests overhead, and sets in the west.”

Once the navigator aligns the compass, for example with the setting sun, the stars rise and set in parallel overhead. A star that rises one house to the north of hikina will arc overhead and set one house to the north of komohana. As stars rise throughout the night, they are fixed in relation to one of the compass houses or points. In this way, the navigator sets a track as accurate as can be.

Baybayan has practiced indigenous navigation for more than thirty years.

For him, the star compass is not an external apparatus, but an internalized environment that extends in every direction to the horizon, and up to the zenith, with the canoe—and himself—in the middle.

“Nainoa [Thompson] taught me this metaphor of the bird and the canoe,” says Baybayan. “He cut out a paper canoe and bird, put the bird on the table and spun it around. Birds are never lost at sea; they have an internal compass.

If the head of the bird points in one direction, the tail [points to] the opposite.

The bird doesn’t have to see what’s in front of him if he knows what’s behind him. Nainoa put the canoe on the table and said, ‘The canoe and the bird are the same thing.’”

Baybayan’s daughter Kala is a second-generation wayfinder who has sailed with the Hōkūle‘a. If you’re staying at The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, you’re invited to join Kala any Thursday from 6 to 7 p.m., when she shares her knowledge of stellar navigation on the property’s North Ocean Lawn.

Spring-Summer 2015 39

Far left: Chad Baybayan aboard the Hōkūle‘a, circa 2005.

This time the journey was to the Northwest Hawaiian Islands of Nīhoa and Mokumanamana.

hokule

‘a has sailed more than 135,ooo miles since her launch, restitching the fragments of polynesia. gradually.” During journeys, he says, “We divide the days into sunrise and sunset. At sunrise we have a navigation meeting, assess our position and compare that to the last twelve hours, and add that to the past days.

Throughout the day you’re watching the speed of the canoe, averaging out speed and plotting position. At night you use the stars to reconfirm or update your position.”

At sea, “It’s eating/sleeping/working in four-hour shifts. It can be very romantic at night under the stars,” says Baybayan. “Exhausting, too. In the tropics, you have to keep fighting the squalls; you have to shut down the sails in squall winds, then open them back up and reset them, and then the next squall comes.”

Nainoa Thompson was the first contemporary Hawaiian to master the Polynesian art of navigation, but schooled himself in Western academics before learning from Mau. Only when he was anchored in the hard sciences did Thompson shift his attention to absorbing the more subtle but powerful older ways of navigating.

“Nainoa created his own field in navigation,” says Baybayan. “One of his greatest skills is meteorology. Weather is what drives the canoe.”

Baybayan says this hybrid approach is now the way young navigators train. “It’s still an indigenous art, but there’s a lot of science involved in it now. There’s a constant jumping between the two worlds, the scientific and the cultural.”

As Thompson notes, “A culture reemerging is not a common story around the world—there are cultures and languages being lost every day across this planet.”

40 Kā‘anapali Magazine

By 2014, Hōkūle‘a had sailed 135,000 nautical miles, restitching the fragments of Polynesia. On May 17 of that year, the Polynesian Voyaging Society officially launched the canoe on an unprecedented voyage around the world. Named Mālama Honua, “To Care for Our Earth,” this three-year journey will carry Hōkūle‘a and her companion vessel Hikianalia some 46,000 miles, with visits to twenty-one countries and sixty-five planned landfalls. The message of this voyage? Peace and sustainability— and the hope that ancient wisdom will inspire modern solutions to the challenges of surviving on an increasingly stressed planet.

“If you come from the lens of what the canoe is supposed to do,” says Thompson, “it will do nothing if tied to the dock. We are not going to change the world, but we are going to build a network of people who are gonna change the world—and our job is to make sure they’re successful.”

Chad Baybayan is one of the navigators guiding Hōkūle‘a on her current voyage. “In the seventies, there was so much stuff we had to learn,” he says. “We had to learn how to sail, and then learn to navigate.

No time to learn protocol. We were just trying to stay afloat. As we got more proficient we got more profound, and thought, Who do we serve?

Then the question became, What’s the canoe? Well, it’s the Earth, an island floating in a sea of space.

“I hope that the tradition is maintained,” he adds. “It ties us back to this ancient tradition of going to sea. You can do all the coursework for understanding the art of it, you can work it out in the classroom, but the process for learning is out on the ocean. At the end of the learning time, people are changed.” 

LEFT: KAIMANA BARCARSE; RIGHT: STEVE THOMAS, TRADITIONAL MICRONESIAN NAVIGATION COLLECTION, UNIVERSITY OF HAWAI‘I–MĀNOA LIBRARY

Left: Seen here in Satawal in 1983, Mau Piailug uses a star compass to teach celestial navigation to his son. The Micronesian master is credited with restoring what had become a lost art among Hawaiians.

Tracking the

Twenty-first-century technology may help keep humpbacks from becoming a thing of the past.

In late fall, the first waves launch from the coastal waters of Alaska and British Columbia. Single slate-gray boulders break the surface for a breath. Powerful tail thrusts create a slick on the dark ocean—an ephemeral footprint marking an individual path to Hawai‘i. The winter convergence of humpback whales has begun.

Much about them—how they find their way to our isles, where they go when they get here, and how long they stay—remains a tantalizing mystery. Whales aren’t exactly easy to study: these leviathans spend most of their time below the surface of the planet’s largest ocean, in areas rarely frequented by humans. Yet the study is vital. Humpbacks were once 42 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Story by teya penniman Photograph by john hyde

abundant worldwide, until whaling decimated their populations. By the 1990s, a mere 6,000 animals remained in the North Pacific, and most of those came to Hawai‘i to breed and calve. Today, thanks to conservation efforts, the humpback whale is doing well enough in some regions that distinct populations (“stocks”) in the Pacific may be taken off the Endangered Species List, but more information is needed to ensure their long-term survival.

Bruce Mate, director of the Marine Mammal Institute at Oregon State University, has spent the last four decades working to solve pieces of the cetacean puzzle. His questions could have been lifted from a survey

whales

Above: Hawai‘i’s humpbacks summer off Alaska’s coast, these two south of Sunset Island. In the weeks or months they spend in our waters, they’ll mate and calve, but not feed. The more we know about their migratory patterns, and where they find food along the way, the better we can shape policies and practices that help them survive.

Spring-Summer 2015 43

A mother humpback keeps her newborn close by as they swim off the West Maui coast. The “little” calf weighs a literal ton at birth. Photo by the Cesere Brothers.

Knowing when the animals use specific locations could help protect whales from ship strikes, fishing-line entanglement, or deadly contact with cable moorings from wave generators. by the Hawai‘i Tourism Authority: Which island do these visitors come to first? Once they’re in Hawai‘i, where do they spend the majority of their time? Do arrival and behavior patterns vary by sex or reproductive status? Information gleaned from satellite tags that Mate hopes to place on twenty humpbacks in Alaska and twenty in Hawai‘i might turn some of our current perceptions about these forty-five-ton titans upside down.

Implanted just forward of the dorsal fin, each tag will provide near-real-time information about its whale’s location. Coated with a slow-release antibiotic, the tag will eventually work its way out and fall off the animal. (Humpbacks seem to shed their tiny transmitters more quickly than their fluky cousins, broadcasting location data for up to 300 days, considerably less than the 620-day record for other species. Those same acrobatic slaps and breaches that draw humans to these isles for the winter show may cause the tags to work loose more quickly.)

How do humpbacks migrate between Hawai‘i and their feeding grounds? Earlier studies suggested the whales might use magnetic north to navigate, but subsequent research in Hawai‘i showed a huge variety of trajectories as they left the Islands. Satellite studies by other researchers established that humpbacks can maintain precise direction over more than 600 miles, a steadfastness not adequately explained by internal magnetic or solar “compasses.” Bruce Mate speculates they might use “dead reckoning,” with low-frequency sounds and familiar seamounts helping to guide their way. But he also observes, “You don’t know what 44 Kā‘anapali Magazine

you don’t know and that’s really true for whales.”

We do know that some humpback whales feed in southeast Alaska during the summer, then head south to winter around the Islands, but not how long they stay here. “You can’t tag an animal in Hawai‘i and learn how long [it’s] been here,” Mate says. “We have to start outside Hawai‘i.” He wants to understand the timing of departures from Alaska, the duration and speed of migration, how the whales enter Hawaiian waters and whether there is an order to their occupancy. He wonders if the seismic rumblings of Lō‘ihi—the submerged volcano in the waters south of Kīlauea on the Big Island—could be the siren song that lures these animals from across the Pacific.

Tracking studies will help improve population estimates, which currently suggest that some 10,000 animals make the 2,500-mile trek each year, covering the abyssal plains in as little as thirty days. But Mate says, “We don’t have any illusion that the animals in Hawai‘i in December will be there in April. My suspicion is that most of the single animals stay for perhaps three weeks.”

And you can’t just take a snapshot count of how many whales are present in the Islands. “You will always underestimate,” he says, “because only a portion of the population is there at the time.”

Once they get here, the whales’ mission is pretty straightforward: have sex and give birth—not necessarily in that order, but apparently all on an empty stomach. Humpbacks don’t feed while in Hawaiian waters.

WHeRe TO see THe WHaLeS Whalers Village Museum Whalers Village 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway | 808-661-5992 The museum focuses on the nineteenth-century whaling era.

Open daily 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Admission $3 Old Lahaina Courthouse 685 Wharf St., Lahaina Includes displays about humpback whales and whaling Open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Free admission

A playful whale calf breaches the surface, safe in sanctuary waters. Photo by the Cesere Brothers. These photos were taken under NMFS Permit #10018 during research activities pursuant to this permit.

After arriving in Hawai‘i, a pregnant female delivers a one-ton baby and then produces “super” milk, laden with more than 50 percent fat, relying on her own reserves for sustenance. “When the females leave, they are at the lowest point of their energy cycle. The tank is on empty,” Mate says. “It’s super important they get back to the feeding grounds and do well.” It turns out there’s a spot halfway between Hawai‘i and Alaska where ocean currents hit an underwater seamount and create an upwelling that brings nutrient-rich waters to the surface. In some years, phytoplankton “blooms” set off a feeding frenzy among krill and small fish, producing a buffet for humpbacks on the return trip. The longest recorded stay at this fueling station was thirty-eight days. A catastrophic event in key feeding areas could reduce reproductive success for years.

Knowing how and when the animals use specific locations around the Islands could also help protect whales from ship strikes, fishingline entanglement, or deadly contact with cable moorings from wave generators. “Humpbacks don’t use sonar like toothed whales do,” Mate says. “The most dangerous times [for them] are when it’s calm and there’s no noise or when it’s really nasty and the background noise is so loud they may not be able to detect something in the water.”

Mate sees the potential delisting of the Islands’ once-endangered humpbacks as something to celebrate, but cautions, “We aren’t out of the woods yet. I don’t expect to see some stocks recover in my greatgrandchildren’s lifetime.” For this puzzle master, any bits of knowledge his studies derive are pieces in the larger picture of protecting these giants in our midst.

Best of all, Mate says, “You put the tags on and then the whale tells its own story. It may be much bigger than what started out as your first question.”

Whale Tales February 13–16 Hosted by Whale Trust Maui, this annual event brings together leading scientists, photographers and conservationists to share their knowledge with the public in a four-day series of receptions, presentations, and whale watches with the experts. Highlights include updates on satellite tagging and migration patterns; social, behavioral and conservation issues on whales and their environment; impacts of underwater sonar testing; stunning underwater footage, including dancing humpbacks; and a behind-the-scenes preview of the new IMAX movie Humpback Whales 3D, coming out later in 2015. Presentations are free to the public on Saturday and Sunday at the Maui Theatre in Lahaina. Charter watches with the experts support research efforts in the Hawaiian Islands. For more information visit WhaleTrustMaui.org.

Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary

Created by Congress in 1992, the sanctuary covers 1,370 square miles and abuts six of the main Hawaiian Islands from the shoreline out to 600 feet deep, protecting one of the most important humpback mating and calving grounds in the world. You won't see jet skis whizzing past or parasails gliding above from December 15 to May 15. The waters surrounding Kā‘anapali are part of the sanctuary, and Hawai‘i’s seasonal thrill-craft ban prohibits such activities when the whales are here. The sanctuary also supports humpback-whale research, outreach and education. To learn more about the sanctuary, visit HawaiiHumpbackWhale.noaa.gov.

Cutting-edge research on Hawai‘i’s humpbacks is funded entirely by private donations; more dollars mean more insights. Learn more at MMI.OregonState.edu.

Spring-Summer 2015 45

Calories burned during a round of Kā‘anapali’s FIT golf

Source: Compiler tried it while wearing a calorie counter.

2-3

Average height, in feet, of waves at Kā‘anapali Beach (1–1½ feet on the Hawaiian scale, which measures the back of the wave instead of the face) Source: Staff at Kaanapali Surf Club

29 Kinds of marine creatures you can see while snorkeling at Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock)

Source: Jim Amidon, manager of Five Star Scuba, located at Black Rock

46 Kā‘anapali Magazine

9

Types of foods items served in pineapples at the resort Source: Kā‘anapali Resort food & beverage managers

TOP: KĀ‘ANAPALI GOLF COURSE; FAR LEFT: RYAN SIPHERS; LEFT: KATIE SAY/HULA GRILL

267

ka¯‘anapali

SHERATON MAUI RESORT & SPA

by the Numbers Measuring up to your expectations takes a lot of care and aloha. How do we do it? Let us count the ways!

Compiled by kyle ellison

Spring/Summer 2015 47

822

Standup-paddle strokes it takes to travel from one end of Kā‘anapali Beach to the other

2,000

Size in square feet of the largest condominium available for rent within the resort (at Kā‘anapali Royal) Source: Survey of staff at all Kā‘anapali Resort condo/villa complexes

20

Ribs (10 pairs) in the whale skeleton on display at Whalers Village Source: Compiler counted.

48 Kā‘anapali Magazine

TOP LEFT: SHERATON MAUI RESORT & SPA; BOTTOM LEFT: UNIT #L302, AVAILABLE FOR RENT VIA VACATION-MAUI.COM, PHOTO COURTESY OF WHALERS REALTY

Source: Compiler paddled the distance and counted.

135

Cabanas along Kā‘anapali Beach

TOP: WESTIN MAUI RESORT & SPA; LEFT: DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC, HYATT REGENCY MAUI RESORT & SPA; ILLUSTRATION: SHELBY LYNCH; BOTTOM RIGHT: KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH HOTEL

Source: Survey of the resort’s beach-activities staff

Tennis courts within the resort Source: Kā‘anapali concierges and Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch staff

652

Weddings held at Kā‘anapali Beach Resort every year Source: Survey of Kā‘anapali Resort event managers

47

Shakes a Tahitian dancer’s hips complete each minute

Source: Video of a dancer at the Hyatt Regency Maui’s Drums of the Pacific lū‘au, slowed to counting speed—and counted

Spring/Summer 2015 49

1

Spectacular sunset you will see at Kā‘anapali each day Source: Astronomical fact

50 Kā‘anapali Magazine

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Spring/Summer 2015 51

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808-870-5571 | Rohn@PlatinumPropertiesHI.com KaanapaliCoffeeFarms.com Jamie Woodburn, Realtor (S) 808-870-5671 | jamiewoodburn1@gmail.com 52 Kā‘anapali Magazine

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Black Rock

kitchen

54 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Left: Breakfast is served with a morning glow, dinner with sunset skies. Right: The charcuterie board offers such savories from land and sea as duck prosciutto, pork belly and hamachi gravlax.

Story by becky speere Photography by ryan siphers

Indoors or out, this Sheraton Maui restaurant brings an expansive view to dining.

Spring-Summer 2015 55

Left: Black Rock Kitchen’s seafood paella is chock-a-block with fresh island fish and seafood atop saffroninfused rice. Below, left to right: Tart calamansi lime accented with li hing mui powder creates a flavor frolic in the Mill Camp Mojito, an award-winning cocktail that pays homage to Lahaina’s plantation past.

In the mixed seafood platter, freshly shucked oysters, snow-crab claws and sweet briny shrimp match up with your choice of sauces: vinegary Asian pear mignonette, spicy kim chee purée, or sweet liliko‘ipineapple cocktail sauce.

Egrets saunter lazily on the lawn, bobbing their heads on long necks, reminding me of the Bangles’ eighties hit song “Walk Like an Egyptian.”

An ocean breeze drifts through the restaurant as we settle at our table and look out over tropical gardens, reflecting pools and the island of Lāna‘i on the calm, blue sea. I spy a hibiscus-red champagne cocktail at the adjoining table and order the blood-orange mimosa. Tart, sweet and bubbly, it’s a refreshing start to my day. My husband, Chris, decides to go savory with a horseradish-spiked bloody Mary that has just the right amount of peppery heat.

As we sip our libations, Executive Sous Chef Raymond Nicasio stops to say hello. I last saw him in September, when his ti-leaf-wrapped corn tamale won Best Appetizer at the 2014 Kā‘anapali Fresh competition. (He shares that recipe at MauiMagazine.net/recipes.)

A Philippine native, Nicasio immigrated to Canada, where he worked in Xerox Corporation’s IT maintenance division. During those seven years, his love for cooking grew so much that, after relocating to Texas, he decided to switch careers, enrolling in the Houston Art Institute’s two-year culinary program. He says, “I’d look at magazines and try cooking anything and everything. My wife encouraged me to follow my passion.”

A post-graduate internship, catering the private suites at Houston Rockets games, strengthened his knowledge of all food Southwestern. Nicasio spent the next ten years at one of the most prestigious private clubs in the nation, preparing meals for the likes of the McCains and the Bushes.

As we chat, a plate of corned-beef hash glides past our table, stealing my attention.

Made with fresh, tender shredded beef and diced potato, it’s crowned with two perfectly poached eggs that practically wink at me.

“I’ll have that,” I tell our server. Chris opts for the eggs Benedict, classically prepared, but with a Southern twist: a buttery slice of toasted cornbread standing in for the usual English muffin. Crowned with lightly smoked ham and hollandaise sauce, the Benedict also comes with a generous side of fresh and crisp hash browns. “We’ve been reworking 56 Kā‘anapali Magazine

the menu to create new and exciting tastes,” Chef Nicasio tells us. “I hope you can join us for dinner tonight.”

Before leaving the restaurant, we take a peek at the dinner menu, and see options like Manila clams steamed in coconut milk with ginger, lime, and lemongrass; a hunter’s board charcuterie with my all-time favorite duck prosciutto; Maui Surfing Goat Dairy cheese, and an Asian pear focaccia. We make our dinner reservations then and there.

Dinner and a Light Show Evening finds us back at Black Rock Kitchen. As the sun dips toward the sea behind Pu‘u Keka‘a, I relish the moment at this perfect vantage point and sip a bracing Mill Camp Mojito, an award-winning cocktail named in honor of Lahaina’s plantation workers. Created by mixologist Gabriel Harvey at the Sheraton’s recent Ocean Vodka cocktail competition, the drink has bright citrus flavors that burst forth from locally grown limes and oranges. A tart-sweet slice of calamansi lime dipped in li hing mui

Sun - Sat Dining: 5:30 - 9:30pm  Bar: 5pm - 10pm Everyday  Happy Hour nightly from 5:00 - 7:00pm Reservations (808) 667-4506  SonzRestaurant.com  Facebook.com/SonzSteakhouse

Thick and juicy, the twelve-ounce Kurobata pork chop is glazed with locally harvested poha berry jam and sweet Maui Gold pineapple.

powder creates a magical pairing with the mixed seafood platter: briny oysters on the half shell, sweet snow-crab claws, and tiger shrimp, accompanied by zesty pickled Asian pear mignonette, garlicky kim chee purée, and a fruity liliko‘i-pineapple salsa. The chef-board menu offers other tempting selections, among them home-cured duck prosciutto smoked with kiawe, our local mesquite, and a luscious slice of pork belly and house-cured hamachi gravlax with tart li hing mui apples, spicy hoisin sauce, and a rare poha-berry jam.

A moving torch catches our attention; as we look up, a youth clad in a malo (loincloth) runs past the restaurant toward the top of Pu‘u Keka‘a.

We know this nightly ritual, and hold our breath, watching the flame dancing along the ridge until the runner dives into the ocean. Then our entrées arrive, and we dive—into our respective delectable meals. I’ve ordered the rum-and-pineapple-glazed Kurobata pork chop with fresh Maui pineapple. I slather the oniony pineapple-berry jam onto every bite of tender pork, delighted with my choice. Chris has opted for the Lahaina tofu entrée, brimming with lightly sautéed vegetables that are tender to the bite. The vegetables have taken on the terroir unique to Maui’s volcanic soil, producing sweet, earthy flavors. The umami tastes meld perfectly with creamy corn and edamame risotto accented with a sweet red pepper purée.

The service staff at Black Rock are both personable and attentive; meeting our every need without the slightest rush to move us along.

58 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Lappert’s vanilla ice cream compliments this crunchy dessert lumpia filled with local apple bananas.

We sit and enjoy the sunset, veils of orange and red covering the sky, and savor our desserts—Maui Mango Madness sorbet and a green-tea cheesecake with a tea-infused mango-vanilla sauce—perfect endings to a memorable dining experience. Black Rock Kitchen Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa 2605 Kā‘anapali Parkway • 808-921-4600 Breakfast 6:30–11 a.m. • Dinner 5:30–9 p.m. • Lounge 5:30–10 p.m.

FlAVORFul IndulgEncES At The Westin Ka‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, three incredible restaurants offer an array of inspiring settings to satisfy your senses.

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OCEAN POOL BAR & GRILL The scenic poolside setting of this restaurant bar is the perfect place to gather for happy hour, live music, themed dinner specials and all-day dining favorites.

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FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT WESTINKAANAPALI.COM

6 Kai Ala drive, north Ka‘anapali Beach, Maui

©2015 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. SPg, Preferred guest, Westin and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

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60 Kā‘anapali Magazine

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Opposite: Hula Grill’s seafood carbonara pasta with kiawe-smoked bacon. Below: Cantonese lamb chops in a spicy hoisin glaze. Right: Chef Bobby Masters is a rock star in the kitchen.

When I show up for my meeting with Bobby Masters, the whitehaired, ponytailed chef pops out of the kitchen and announces, “I’m really busy right now.” Okay, I tell him, I’ll be back in a half hour. “Great,” he says, then adds, apologetically, “Two cooks called in sick.”

As I loiter in the restaurant, waiting to interview him, Jackie, a Hula Grill waitress of thirteen years, tells me, “Chef is so nice. People come in and ask for him. Chef Bobby is an institution.”

Thirty minutes later, his adrenaline is still palpable. It takes a dedicated chef to work in the open kitchen of one of Maui’s busiest restaurants for sixteen-plus hours, and still maintain a cheery composure while guests engage you in conversation.

Chef Bobby started out as his father did—attending medical school.

But he’d grown up dining in the best restaurants in Texas, and as a patron at Astros and Houston Rockets games, in whose viewing boxes great food flowed generously. He had also dabbled in cooking while in school, and realized it was what he truly enjoyed. So, near graduation, he had a change of heart and decided to exit, stage right, into the kitchen.

Looking to the stars, Masters applied for a position as a cook at one of Houston’s top restaurants, Cafe Annie. “Unfortunately, they wouldn’t hire me without more line-cook experience or culinary school training. Dean Fearing [TV Food Network chef], a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and a close family friend, put in a good word for me at the institute, and six weeks later I was off to the Big Apple, studying the ins and outs of food preparation and food safety.”

Graduating at the top of his class opened doors for Masters that he wasn’t prepared to walk through. “I sent off a job application to the all-new Euro Disney for a restaurant chef position, got hired, and then realized I wasn’t ready to work that hard. I wanted to ease into the culinary scene.

So I turned it down when a position came up at Roy’s Kahana restaurant at the same time . . . in 1991. Two years later, when Jean-Marie Josselin opened A Pacific Cafe in Kīhei, I worked there, then went to work at [the famous] Michele’s in Waikīkī when the cafe closed.”

When new owners purchased Michele’s, and their renovation took months longer than expected, fate interceded again, in a chance encounter with Peter Merriman at the Honolulu Airport. Merriman had recently partnered with TS Restaurants to open Hula Grill in Whalers Village.

“I’d always loved Maui,” says Masters. “When this opportunity came up, I went for it and it was the best decision I ever made.”

On Valentine’s Day in 1996, Master’s became the chef de cuisine, a

South of the border, middle of the ocean: Mexican fare takes a delicious turn in tacos made with fresh island poke (seasoned raw fish) on guacamole.

position he’s held for the last eighteen years.

A music lover whose eclectic tastes include BB King, Tower of Power and Journey, Masters looks like a seventies rock star himself—though his ponytail is tucked beneath a Hula Grill cap, and he wears a happy smile.

Always a smile.

“I’ve mentored a lot of [Hula Grill’s] cooks, since I’ve been here almost from the beginning,” he tells me. “I’ve mentored dishwashers to become cooks. Worked with the culinary students. I’m lucky to be here to share my recipes and techniques.” And when two people call in sick, “you step up to the plate,” he adds.

Although Masters has already worked a full shift and is starting his next one, he teases, “I have a friend who told me, ‘Never trust a skinny chef, or a tanned chef.’ I’m neither.” The epitome of a working chef, Bobby Masters is truly a master in his kitchen.  Hula Grill Whalers Village 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway • 808-667-6636 Barefoot Bar 10:45 a.m.–10:30 p.m. • Dining Room 4:45–9:30 p.m.

Spring/Summer 2015 61

Skillet-toasted sesame seeds give a crunchy nuttiness to ‘ahi served with a soy-butter sauce in the dining room at Leilani’s on the Beach.

Sensational Seafood Story by becky speere 62 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Sesame-crusted Seared ‘Ahi

Leilani’s on the Beach at Whalers Village Chef de Cuisine Steven Crosier is making waves with his new menu.

One example is a cross between sashimi and cooked fish: black-andwhite-sesame-crusted seared ‘ahi. Prepared with a generous slice of line-caught local fish, the gluten-free option is served with a tantalizing shiitake-mushroom-butter-soy sauce, a side of nori-wrapped asparagus, and a delicate citrus-coconut jasmine rice. Or try the salt-and-peppa’ Hawaiian catch with a little Korean accent served atop gochujang risotto.

Kim chee, anyone? 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway • 808-661-4495

BECKY SPEERE

You’d expect a string of islands in the middle of Earth’s largest ocean to have exceptional seafood. Dine at Kā‘anapali, and you’d be right.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SON’Z STEAKHOUSE, JASON MOORE, (2) BECKY SPEERE

Clockwise from top left: Tart lemon balances the rich butter-caper sauce in this classic mahimahi presentation at Son’z. Chef’s choice at Japengo is the moriawase (sashimi platter) prepared with top-shelf seafood. Kā‘anapali Grille’s seared ‘ahi comes on a salt-and-pepper bun with wasabi tobiko aioli; order one with a craft beer on tap. Pūlehu tosses its house-made squid-ink tagliatelle in tomato-seafood marinara, then tops it with tender slices of calamari and Calabrese sausage.

Mahimahi in Lemon-caper Butter Sauce

Son’z Steakhouse at Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa There’s a reason this steakhouse is in a fish lineup. The fresh mahimahi filet is generously portioned and sautéed to succulent juiciness on the inside, golden and crispy-edged on the outside. A sauce of white wine and lemon-caper butter adds piquant richness; a dollop of sweet tomato reduction and marinated artichoke hearts add another layer of flavor. A Moloka‘i sweet-potato cake under the fish provides a bed for the juices to meld, while golden shards of sautéed garlic marry with the side of bright green broccolini. Save room for dessert. 200 Nohea Kai Drive • 808-667-4506

Sushi and Sashimi

Japengo at Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa Whether you sit at the posh sushi bar, or outdoors, overlooking the ocean, ‘Aipono Award-winning Japengo will satisfy your cravings for fresh, creative seafood. Try the moriawase, a combination sashimi platter featuring chef’s choices of the day, such as maguro tuna, hamachi and hokkigai clam. Or choose from a dozen colorful sushi-rice hand rolls and maki rolls layered with avocado, crab, salmon and fresh island ‘ahi. 200 Nohea Kai Drive • 808-667-4796

Squid-ink Pasta and Seppia Tagliatelle

Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, at The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas Each of Pūlehu’s flavorful seafood entrées is more tempting than the next. The Kona lobster carbonara is a standout: five ounces of local lobster tangled with guanciale in a creamy, egg-rich spaghettini nest. For a lighter offering, try the seppia tagliatelle: black squid-ink pasta tossed with Calabrese sausage and baby calamari. The house special is another must-have: Kaua‘i prawn stuffed with crab, pancetta and leek on Arborio risotto, with Meyer lemon confit and garlic chips. Make sure someone in your party orders it. 6 Kai Ala Drive • 808-667-3254

Seared ‘Ahi Sandwich

Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room at Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club This new kid on the beachfront has a bright look, an expansive bar and a menu to match. The prime-rib French dip sandwich may be the most delicious you ever experience. But for fish lovers, the standout is the seared ‘ahi sandwich on a salt-and-pepper bun. Wasabi aioli with sesame and tobiko provides just the right amount of sweet spiciness; roasted tomato and caramelized onions add complexity. Choose from thirty-six beers on tap, or top mixology like mango-spiked Maui thyme lemonade made with Maui Pau vodka. 100 Nohea Kai Drive • 808-667-7733 Spring-Summer 2015 63

Dining Guide N Dinner served past 9 p.m. RR Reservations recommended $ Average entrée under $15 $$ Under $25 $$$ Under $40 $$$$ $40+

Beach Bar, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525. This oceanfront pool bar serves wine, beer and imaginative cocktails, including the award-winning Nō Ka ‘Oi mai tai. 11 a.m.–10 p.m.

Happy Hour 7–9 p.m. $$ Beach Walk & Kau Kau to Go, Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 6671200. The perfect place for cold drinks, snacks, sandwiches and entrée salads. Featuring Pizza Hut pizza and other local dishes. 6:30 a.m.–7 p.m. $$ Black Rock Kitchen, Sheraton Maui, 808-921-4600. The breakfast buffet features made-toorder omelets, waffles and wraps. Á la carte also available. Dinner brings classic steakhouse fare with an island twist. Decadent herb butter accompanies the 16-ounce certified Black Angus rib eye, and the fresh catch comes with farm-to-table preparations. Breakfast 6:30–11 a.m. Dinner 5:30–9 p.m. Lounge Sunday–Thursday 5:30–10 p.m., Friday–Saturday 5:30 p.m.– midnight. American/Hawai‘i Regional. $$–$$$ (See story on page 54.)

Castaway Café, Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas, 661-9091. This casual beachfront spot serves up local coffee and eggs Benedict with a view. At dinner, the owner’s chockablock wine cellar dresses up the menu’s simple but satisfying fare. 7:30 a.m.–9 p.m.

American. $$ China Bowl, Fairway Shops, 661-0660. Cantonese, Mandarin and Szechwan dishes, plus local favorites like saimin and kau yuk. Dine in, take out, or have them deliver. Winner of Gecko Publishing’s Maui Choice Award for best Chinese cuisine.

Monday–Saturday 10:30 a.m.– 64 Kā‘anapali Magazine

9:30 p.m. Sunday 11 a.m.–9:30 p.m. Kid-friendly. Chinese. $ CJ’s Deli & Diner, Fairway Shops, 667-0968. Specializing in comfort food that’s easy on the wallet, CJ’s huge billboard menu features homemade meat loaf, deli sandwiches and burgers, alongside local favorites like loco moco, mochiko-chicken plate lunch, coconut prawns, and mahimahi with lemon-caper sauce. 7 a.m.–8 p.m. Kid-friendly.

American. $ Cliff Dive Grill

Cliff Dive Grill, Sheraton Maui, 661-0031. Cozy up to the bar for gourmet skewers and other grilled classics, and enjoy sunset entertainment like no other: torch lighting followed by a cliff diver’s leap from Black Rock. Food service 11 a.m.–9:30 p.m. Happy Hour 3–5 p.m. $$ Colonnade Café, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525.

Treat yourself to a light breakfast or refreshing snacks beside a waterfall, and watch ducks and swans glide by. Selections include pastries, fruit smoothies, sandwiches, Starbucks coffee and nonalcoholic specialty drinks.

5:30 a.m.–5:30 p.m. $$ Drums of the Pacific Lū‘au, Hyatt Regency Maui, 6674727. Immerse yourself in an evening of Polynesian culture.

Enjoy authentic song and dance

DINING DIRECTORY (See map on page 16.)

Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas, 45 Kai Ala Drive Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Drive Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Drive Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Parkway Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 100 Nohea Kai Drive Royal Kā‘anapali Golf Clubhouse, 2290 Kā‘anapali Parkway Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Drive Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Parkway Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Drive Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Parkway Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway (including a three-man Samoan fire-knife dance), an all-you-caneat buffet of island specialties, Polynesian arts and crafts, hula lesson, and an island-wear fashion show at this award-winning lū‘au.

Nightly June–August, Monday– Saturday September–May. Kid-friendly. RR. $$$$ Food Court, Whalers Village.

Refresh and recharge at this fast-food emporium featuring Fresh, Nikki’s Pizza, Ruby’s Dinette, and Subway. 7:30 a.m.–9 p.m.

Kid-friendly. Eclectic. $ Häagen-Dazs Ice Cream Shop, Whalers Village, 667-5377.

Indulge in irresistible ice creams and sorbets, a decadent warmbrownies á la mode sundae, or a signature Dazzler frozen dessert.

10 a.m.–10 p.m. Kid-friendly. $ Hank’s Haute Dogs, Sheraton Maui. Man bites dog! Man says, “Delicious!” Located oceanside, this new takeaway venue offers gourmet hot dogs, snacks and nonalcoholic refreshments.

11 a.m.–3 p.m. American. $ Hula Grill, Whalers Village, 6676636. Winner of the 2014 Gold ‘Aipono Award for “Best Shorts & Slippers Dining,” and Silver

Hula Grill

‘Aipono for “Best Pau Hana.”

Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy live entertainment and casual fare.

The open-air dining room offers unobstructed views, and dishes like fire-grilled ‘ahi steak. Bar 10:45 a.m.–10:30 p.m. Dining Room 4:45–9:30 p.m. Happy Hour 3–5 p.m. Kid-friendly.

Hawai‘i Regional. N. $$–$$$ (See story on page 60.)

Island Press Coffee, Fairway Shops, 667-2003. Maui-grown coffee, breakfast, sandwiches, beer and wine, ice cream and Maui-made kombucha, indoor/ outdoor seating, free Wi-Fi. Who could ask for more? Monday– Friday 6 a.m.–5 p.m. Saturday & Sunday 6 a.m.–4 p.m. $ Japengo, Hyatt Regency, 6674727. Winner of the 2014 ‘Aipono

Restaurant Award for Maui’s Best Sushi, Japengo also offers worldclass steaks, seafood and creative cocktails, blending the exotic flavors of the Pacific Rim with local ingredients. Dine indoors, outdoors, or in the chic Sushi Lounge. Live music. 5:30–10 p.m.

Happy Hour 5–6:30 p.m. Seasonal pairing dinners and special events. Sushi/Pacific Rim/Asian.

RR. $$$ (See story on page 62.)

Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room, Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 667-7733. From the people who brought Cheeseburger in Paradise to Lahaina twenty-five years ago comes this new venue, serving burgers, sandwiches, pizzas and salads. Dinner adds steak, fresh fish and pasta. Thirty wines under $30 a bottle. 7 a.m.–10 p.m.

Happy Hour 2–5 p.m. American.

N. $–$$ (See story on page 62.)

Kai Ala Market, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 662-2676. Purchase ready-tocook items and sundries for your condo stay at this well-

comedy. Tuesday–Saturday 4:30– 7:30 p.m. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. RR. $$$$

Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room

stocked grocery. Choose from an appealing selection of marinated meats, fresh vegetables, salads, and more. It’s also a great place to pick up pastries, sandwiches, snacks, and beverages before you head off to explore the island.

Monday–Thursday 6:30 a.m.– 8 p.m. Friday–Sunday 6:30 a.m.– 9 p.m. American. $ Kupanaha Magic Dinner Show, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 667-0128.

Enjoy family-style dining while a magician executes close-up tricks.

Then illusionist Jody Baran and wife Kathleen take the stage in a show of classic magic, Hawaiian culture, cutting-edge illusions and

Legends of Kā‘anapali Lū‘au, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 667-0128.

Lei Pono Productions tells the story of Kā‘anapali through hula and narration, culminating in a fire walk.

The call of the conch gathers guests for a shell-lei greeting and welcome cocktail, followed by a feast of island fare prepared by awardwinning chefs. Mondays 5–8 p.m.

October–April, 5:30–8:30 p.m.

May–September. RR. $$$$ Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 661-4495. Snack on calamari, sashimi, burgers or fish tacos while enjoying the view of sparkling sands from the open-air Beachside Grill. Or dine indoors on fire-grilled daily catch, teriyaki steak, shrimp scampi or prime rib grilled Texas style. Beachside Grill 11 a.m.–10:30 p.m. Dining Room 5–10 p.m. Happy Hour 3–5 p.m. Kid-friendly. Steak/ Seafood. N, RR. $$–$$$ (See story on page 62.)

Leilani’s on the Beach

Mai Tai Bar, Sheraton Maui, 661-0031. This beachside location at the foot of Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock) offers $6 Stoli vodka cocktail specials 10 a.m.–4 p.m., sandwiches and salads 11 a.m.–3 p.m., and a classic Black Rock mai tai (light and dark rum, island fruit juices, and more than a splash of aloha). Bar service 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Happy Hour 10 a.m.–noon American. $$ Maui Fish & Pasta, Whalers Village, 662-0668. Acclaimed chef/restaurateur D. K. Kodama has created a distinctive farm-totable menu. Try the restaurant’s innovative sushi rolls, then dig

live flamenco music every thursday

fine mexican. seafood. Tequila.

Lunch + Happy Hour + Dinner at the fairway shops in kA'Anapali sangritagrill .com +

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Spring/Summer 2015 65

Dining Guide into pan-roasted jumbo shrimp served over homemade linguine, or herb-grilled pork chops with Hāmākua mushroom demi-glace.

Breakfast 8 a.m.–2 p.m. Dinner 5–9:30 p.m. Happy Hour 5–9:30 p.m. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. N. $$-$$$ Maui Nui Lū‘au at Black Rock, Sheraton Maui, 877-HULA. This oceanfront, all-you-can-eat buffet features such traditional island foods as slow-roasted kalua pork unearthed and presented fresh from the imu (underground oven), cultural arts and crafts and Polynesian entertainment.

Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays (seasonal), 5:30–8:30 p.m. Kidfriendly. Pacific Rim. RR. $$$$ The Myths of Maui Lū‘au, Royal Lahaina Resort, 661-9119. Maui’s longest-running oceanfront lū‘au travels through time and space to reveal the stories of Hawai‘i, Tahiti and Samoa through music, song and dance. Nightly June–August; closed Saturdays September– May. Kid-friendly. Hawaiian. RR. $$$$ Ocean Pool Bar & Grill, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 667-3259. This breezy, poolside restaurant/bar serves breakfast and bistro-style cuisine all day long. Check out its themed dinner nights: Upcountry Barbeque on Mondays, an all-you-can-eat Crab Fest on Wednesdays, and Prime Rib Night on Thursdays. 7 a.m.–9 p.m. Kidfriendly. Hawai‘i Regional. RR, Open Table. $$$ Pailolo Bar & Grill, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 667-3200. Unwind and enjoy expansive ocean and neighborisland views, plus your favorite televised sports, all in an open-air setting. Burgers, tacos, sandwiches, chicken wings and salads. And check out Pailolo’s new Woodie66 Kā‘anapali Magazine

N Dinner served past 9 p.m. RR Reservations recommended $ Average entrée under $15 $$ Under $25 $$$ Under $40 $$$$ $40+

style food truck for some ono (delicious) grinds. 10:30 a.m.– 10 p.m. Happy Hour 4–6 p.m.

American. N. $$ Paradise Grill, 2291 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., 662-3700. Fifteen different televisions make it easy to catch your favorite Direct TV game, including NBA, NCAA, NFL and hockey. Half-off listed breakfast items 7–8 a.m., halfoff listed dinner items 4–5 p.m.

Bar opens at 2 p.m. with pool table and $3 Bud Light drafts.

Live music. At the entrance to Kā‘anapali Resort. 7 a.m.–2 a.m.

Kid-friendly. American. N. $$

Pūlehu

Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 667-3259. Chef Francois Milliet creates classic Italian cuisine with a fresh, sustainable twist. Winner of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Italian Restaurant, it’s the perfect place to enjoy risotto-crusted monchong, braised short ribs, Moloka‘i sweet-potato gnocchi and inspiring cocktails. Thursday– Monday 5:30–9:30 p.m. Italian.

RR, Open Table. $$$ (See story on page 62.)

Pu‘ukoli‘i General Store, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 667-3200. Carryout baked goods, deli sandwiches, salads, marinated meats for grilling, ice cream, and the store’s specialty: homemade pizzas. 6:30 a.m.–8:30 p.m. American. $

Relish Burger Bistro, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525.

Family-friendly, open-air dining at poolside, with TV/bar seating for sports lovers. The Bistro serves all-natural Kobe beef burgers and local flavors such as fish sandwiches, salads with island greens, and huli huli grilled chicken breast with Maui Gold pineapple salsa. 6:30 a.m.–10 p.m. Happy Hour 3–5 p.m.

American/Hawai‘i Regional. N. $$-$$$ Relish Oceanside, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525.

Enjoy fresh local fish, steak, and contemporary cuisine with island flavors at this oceanfront setting, complete with waterfalls, live music, and flickering tiki torches.

5–10 p.m. Happy Hour 5–6 p.m.

Contemporary. N. $$–$$$ Round Table Pizza, Fairway Shops, 662-0777. Try local favorite Maui Zaui: ham, bacon, pineapple, Roma tomatoes, red and green onions, and three cheeses atop Polynesian-style red sauce. Sunday–Thursday 11 a.m.–9 p.m. Friday & Saturday 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Kid-friendly.

American. $$ Roy’s Kā‘anapali, Royal Kā‘anapali Golf Clubhouse, 669-6999. Celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi rocks vibrant local fish and produce, preparing them with an Asian attention to detail. Roy’s blackened ‘ahi, and macadamia-nut-crusted mahimahi with lobster butter sauce, are menu standouts. Save room for the award-winning chocolate soufflé. 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Hawai‘i Regional. N, RR. $$$ Royal Ocean Terrace Restaurant & Lounge, Royal Lahaina Resort, 661-9119. At sunset, a traditional torch-lighting ceremony heralds the evening at this open-air casual restaurant that offers

commanding views of the Pacific and the islands of Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i. Enjoy “broke da mouth” baked lobster, mac-n-cheese, or a filet with herb risotto, while a graceful hula dancer and solo musician perform Hawaiian classics. 6:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Kidfriendly. Hawai‘i Regional. $$ Royal Scoop, Royal Lahaina Resort, 661-3611. Continental breakfast items, deli sandwiches, specialty coffees, frozen yogurt, and Maui’s own Roselani Ice Cream. 6 a.m.–7 p.m. $ Ruby’s Dinette, Food Court, Whalers Village, 868-4672.

Journey back to the 1940s for classic burgers, sandwiches, and salads, plus Ruby’s famous shakes and malts, handmade to order.

7:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Kid-friendly.

American. $

Sangrita Grill + Cantina

Sangrita Grill + Cantina, Fairway Shops, 662-6000. Chef Paris Nabavi creates innovative dishes like ‘ahi ceviche, avocado fries, seafood chile rellenos, and shortrib fig mole enchiladas. Open-air dining options and full-service bar with exceptional margaritas.

11 a.m.–10 p.m. Happy Hour 3–6 p.m. Mexican, N. $$ Sea Dogs Snack Bar, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525.

Hot dogs, popcorn, shave ice, nachos and sandwiches . . . pick up a snack at this oceanside spot on your way to the beach or other adventures. 11 a.m.–4 p.m. $–$$

this full-service store. Starbucks gift cards accepted. 5:30 a.m.–7 p.m. $

Son’z Steakhouse

Son’z Steakhouse, Hyatt Regency, 667-4506. Set beside a lagoon where swans glide by, and known for excellent steaks, a fully stocked bar, and a wine cellar that earned multiple Wine Spectator’s Restaurant Wine List Awards, Son‘z is ideal for romantic dinners, wedding parties and other special events.

Seasonal live entertainment.

5:30–9:30 p.m. Bar 5–10 p.m.

Happy Hour 5–6 p.m. American. N, RR. $$$$ (See story on page 62.)

Starbucks, Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 667-1200. Find all your favorite Starbucks offerings at

Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui, 808-921-4600. Watch your skillful chef prepare succulent steak, lobster, shrimp, scallops, and fresh fish to perfection right before your eyes. Tuesday–Saturday, 5:30–8:45 p.m. Japanese/Steak & Seafood. RR. $$$

free) nightly hula show, while its new Grab-n-Go outlet offers light snacks and specialty coffee drinks. The Sunday brunch is legendary—and a winner of Maui Nō Ka ’Oi Magazine’s Readers’ Choice ‘Aipono Award for Best Brunch. Breakfast 6:30–11 a.m.

Dinner Tuesday–Sunday 6–9 p.m.

Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. $$ ‘Ūmalu

Tiki Bar & Grill, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 667-0236. Have your picture taken next to the largest tiki in Hawai‘i at Maui’s only outdoor tiki bar. Munch on appetizers, salad, pizza, or a sandwich at this relaxed poolside venue. Grill 11:30 a.m.–8 p.m. Bar 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Happy Hour 3–6 p.m. American. $ Tiki Terrace Restaurant, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 6670124. Chef Tom Muromoto presents fresh island seafood, juicy steaks and nightly specials.

Tiki Terrace is the perfect vantage for watching the popular (and

‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency, 661– 1234. Head poolside for certified Angus beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired

by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past, and enjoy seasonal evening

entertainment. 10 a.m.–11 p.m.

Happy Hour 5–6 p.m. American/ Pacific Rim. N. $$ Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 661-2992. Hawaiian-style buffet, plus the songs and dances of Polynesia, with a stunning fireknife dance finale. Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday. Kidfriendly. Hawaiian. RR. $$$$ Wiki Grinds, Sheraton Maui, 662-8052. In Hawaiian, wiki means “fast”; grinds is Pidgin for “good eats.” Put them together, and you have Sheraton’s new togo venue for local favorites like huli huli chicken, beef teriyaki and paniolo (cowboy) barbeque; plus salads, sandwiches, steaks and chops—picked up without leaving your car. 5:30–10 p.m. American/ Hawai‘i Regional. N. $$–$$$ Yogurtland, Whalers Village, 661-9834. Create your own frozen-yogurt concoction from myriad flavors and toppings. 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Kid-friendly. $

Spring/Summer 2015 67

Alfresco Spa

Oceanside massage at The Westin Maui Resort & Spa

For many resort guests, an oceanfront massage is the quintessential activity in paradise; saying yes to one is a definite no-brainer. But for others of us who tend to overthink things, nagging questions come to mind. What if curious onlookers surreptitiously glance through the cabana curtains as they saunter past? What about the hustle and bustle, the noise and bright sunlight?

Most of my life, I’ve indulged in massages in the dimly lit treatment rooms of indoor spas. I enjoyed the total privacy, the absence of light, and the ubiquitous sounds of an Andean flute or Enya entreating, “Sail away, sail away, sail away. . . .” Could a massage in a public space, sans piped-in music, be as relaxing?

To find out, I arrive at the Westin Maui’s Heavenly Spa one Friday morning at ten. Spa director Shawn Hallum recommended the hour; it’s the precise time when sunlight glances off Lāna‘i and Moloka‘i to reveal the startling topography of the islands in contract to the crystal-blue tones of the sky and sea.

68 Kā‘anapali Magazine

After I check in at the spa desk, an attendant whisks me into the locker room, pointing out a secure place to keep my valuables, a sauna, and a very private whirlpool within the locker room. She tells me I’m welcome to use the facility all day if I so desire.

At this point, indoor-massage clients would be asked to change from their street clothing into a spa robe (the most comfortable cocoon on the planet), but for the oceanside treatment, swimwear is required. Ever prepared, I am already decked out in a bikini, hoping it doesn’t get in the way of a sensational massage. I stash my purse, set a security code on the locker and scurry downstairs.

The massage hut is a thatched, open-walled hale (structure) directly across the pool from the spa. As I enter its shaded hush, my masseuse, Laura, greets me, carrying a small tray of rocks onto which are carved different intentions. I place “Love” and “Aloha” onto a coconut shell lined with sand and hibiscus blossoms. Laura suggests we both keep these thoughts in mind during the treatment, then she beckons me to lie face

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE WESTIN MAUI RESORT & SPA

�tory by marti rosenquist

down on the massage table. Doing so, I close my eyes and am suddenly aware of laughter in the distance, ‘ukulele music drifting through the air, water splashing in the nearby pool.

Soon the only sounds are those in my personal dream world. For the next twenty-five minutes, I’m only aware of Laura’s hands gliding over my tired muscles, giving extra attention to the tightness in my writer’s shoulders. The Westin’s signature Heavenly Massage is a mellow treatment, meant to relax and soothe, and I’m able to dream right through it all, as if the treatment were part of my reverie.

Midway through the massage, Laura asks me to turn onto my back. If anyone were looking on as I clumsily roll over and out of my bikini top, I could not care less. The transition is so seamless that I don’t even notice that Laura has slipped an eye mask on my face, allowing me to dip right back into my dream state.

For another twenty-five minutes (but who’s counting?), Laura slathers me with oils and turns me into a human noodle. When she removes the eye mask, I whimper.

“Aw. Is it over already?”

She chuckles. “Does that mean you enjoyed the treatment?”

“Enjoy? Have you ever heard the term ‘no-brainer?’” Heavenly Spa by Westin The Westin Maui Resort & Spa 2365 Kā‘anapali Parkway | 808-661-2588 WestinMaui.com

At Kā‘anapali, massage can be outdoors, oceanfront— and just about the best pampering under the sun.

The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas offers a couple’s massage that’s out-of-doors—and practically an out-of-body experience.

BLISS IN BROAD DAYLIGHT Kamaha‘o Spa offers beachside cabanas where guests are privy to the “sounds and breath of the ocean” during treatments. $135 for 50-minute sessions Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa 200 Nohea Kai Drive | 808-667-4725 MarilynMonroeSpas.com/mms-location/Maui

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE WESTIN KĀ‘ANAPALI OCEAN RESORT VILLAS

In Hale Mana’s outdoor cabanas, guests indulge in 25-, 50-, or 80-minute sessions of bliss for $55, $105, and $155 respectively. Walk-ins welcome.

Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club 100 Nohea Kai Drive | 808-214-0977 halemana@hotmail.com The Spa at Black Rock offers lomilomi, signature, and ‘eleu arnica massages in its poolside cabanas, $115 for 50 minutes, $165 for 80 minutes. Early birds can indulge in a massage, facial, or mani/pedi for only $99 between 10 a.m. and noon. Or experience an indulgent massage for one or two on the intimate outdoor lānai of Ho‘o Malei O Ke Kai, overlooking Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock). $140 for 50 minutes, $185 for 80 minutes.

The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa 2605 Kā‘anapali Parkway | 808-667-9577 Sheraton-Maui.com/spa The 8,000-square-foot Spa Helani offers oceanside cabana massages daily from 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. The signature Heavenly Massage is $135 for 50 minutes, $185 for 80 minutes. The spa also has specialty massages in 50- and 80-minute sessions for $150 and $200 respectively. Treatments include access to spa and fitness areas for the entire day of booking.

9 a.m.–7 p.m.

The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas 6 Kai Ala Drive | 808–662-2644 WestinKaanapali.com Spring-Summer 2015 69

Players finish their four-man scramble on the Royal Kā‘anapali Course during a fundraising tournament for Ka Lima O Maui, a nonprofit agency serving adults with developmental disabilities.

Games Golfers Play �tory & Photography by matthew thayer

The banter starts on the first tee or even the practice green, when someone in the foursome asks, “What game are we playing today?” If the golfer’s any good, he or she will have weighed everyone’s talent level and expectations, and have a contest in mind that gives each participant a more or less equal opportunity to win.

You could call it handicapping, but it’s really about balancing competition with fun. Scratch golfers may want to keep strict score and hit every shot, but a mom and dad teeing it up with their kids will likely have a better time playing a two-team scramble or Bingo Bango Boingo.

Here are some oldies but goodies to try on Kā‘anapali’s two championship courses.

When in Doubt—Scramble!

Mike and Joan Houx of California celebrate a birdie putt during a two-person scramble on the Kā‘anapali Kai Course.

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Best Ball Scramble is fun for couples, families, and hackers who haven’t played in a while.

Teams can be two, three or four players.

After every member of a team tees off, they choose the best drive based on distance and lie.

Also-rans get picked up, and errant slices into the woods are forgotten, as teammates gather

where their best ball settled: the spot from which everyone hits their next shot. On a good day, a pair of average golfers can shoot even par—or Mom and the kids can be a team and take Dad, on his lonesome, to school.

“It’s a great format for a tournament where there are varying handicaps and/or golfers [who] don’t have a handicap,” says Ed Kageyama, PGA general manager of Kā‘anapali Golf Courses.

“It allows a mixed group to play as a team, and many teams to compete against each other in a fun, low-stress format.”

Bingo Bango Boingo

This side game takes place during a regular round of golf, but has nothing to do with the final score. Bingo Bango Boingo is all about living in the moment.

There are three points available on every hole. Bingo is “first on”—the longest shot to land and stop on the green. Bango is “closest”— the shot that comes to rest nearest the hole.

Boingo is “first in”—the longest putt or shot to drop into the hole. (Winning putts must be

longer than the shaft of a regulation putter. If not, the point for “first in” pushes to the next hole.)

Ed Kageyama often has his high school golfers play Bingo Bango Boingo during practice. “The golfer needs to pick a strategy and execute the one shot,” says Kageyama, who is a firm believer in not focusing on the overall score during the game. “The most important shot in competitive golf is the one you’re playing at that moment, not the last one, not the one three holes ago and not the one five holes ahead.”

Bingo Bango Boingo has an uncanny way of evening out the playing field for golfers with different skill levels. A guy who shoots 107 can beat the hotshot who fires a 77 if he plays well around the green. It’s all about chipping the ball close, making some big putts, and, of course, having fun.

Red, White & Blue

Whether scoring individually or in a team format, all players start on the middle (white) tee. If a player or team makes birdie, they get bumped back to the blue tee on the next hole. If they post a bogey, they move up to the red tee on the next hole. A par keeps them at the box they’re on.

Low scorers will play many of the holes from the back tee, where it’s harder. Golfers who are not so strong will play from the forward tees, where they will have a better chance to compete.

Pink Ball

In this team format, each group gets one pink ball.

Each player on the team takes turns playing it, and trying not to lose it. Teams who finish with a pink

ball are entered in a drawing for a prize. If no team finishes with the pink ball, the one that finished the most holes before losing the pink ball wins.

Quota (also known as Tombstone or Graveyard) This is a last-player-standing game that folks of all abilities can play together. Golfers get their full handicap, keep score, and are done whenever they hit their “quota” of shots. The player who makes it the farthest wins. For example, someone with an 18 handicap has a quota of 90 shots. The golfer can still play and finish the round, but nothing after 90 counts. The game’s alternate names come from the practice of sticking a “tombstone” in the ground where you took your last shot.

Botengo

This triathlon combines bowling, tennis and golf, all played in one day. After players complete all three sports, the cumulative score determine the winner. The day’s champ may not be the best golfer or bowler, but is usually the person who is balanced all around. (Note: The island’s sole, small bowling alley is in Wailuku, in Central Maui, so you may want to substitute bocce or croquet if you attempt Botengo in Kā‘anapali.)  Kā‘anapali Golf Courses Managed by Billy Casper Golf 2290 Kā‘anapali Parkway Reservations/Pro Shop: 808-661-3691 Toll Free: 866-454-GOLF (4653) KaanapaliGolfCourses.com

GOLF FOR THe SWInG SeT Making golf accessible to kids has long been a priority at the Kā‘anapali Golf Courses.

Now in its twelfth year, Kā‘anapali’s Kids Play Free program lets youngsters under seventeen playing with a paying adult tee it up for free in the afternoons. It’s sort of like the kid is the member who’s bringing a parent as guest.

A new wrinkle is the addition of keiki (children’s) tees on each hole to challenge young players with a shorter course more their size. A keiki round comes with a special scorecard and crayon for keeping tally.

Kā‘anapali’s Junior Golf Program puts responsibility and accountability in young players’ hands. Those who graduate from the program each year receive privileges such as free range balls and free play after 4 p.m. Besides golf, the kids learn responsibility, the need to work for things they want, and how to dress and act appropriately at the golf course.

Frank Hackett watches son Tommy tee off on the Kā‘anapali Kai Course during a two-man scramble.

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The hand slicing this sweet Maui onion belongs to Chef Jojo Vasquez of the Plantation House Restaurant, who won the Recipe Contest in 2012.

Chef Ryan Luckey, of Leilani’s on the Beach, won the 2014 Maui Onion Challenge with a dish that also included Aji Amarillo, flat-iron steak, and cassava root.

A star of the festival: Maui onion rings

A Little Slice of Heaven Any way you cut it, the Maui onion is worth celebrating.

�tory by catherine e. toth Photography by martin wyand Maui is known for its scenic beaches, winter whale watching, and a massive shield volcano called Haleakalā. But it’s the famed onion grown in Kula, on the verdant slopes of said volcano, that is truly one of the Valley Isle’s most appealing icons.

So much so, it even has its own event: the Maui Onion Festival, held at Whalers Village in Kā‘anapali.

For twenty-five years, the Maui Onion Festival has celebrated that supremely sweet bulb with cooking demonstrations by celebrated chefs, recipe contests, a cocktail-mixing battle, food booths and more.

Every year, the festival lures thousands of people eager to try the various preparations of this small and sweet onion, from sautéed to deepfried to muddled in drinks. Its versatility has made it one of Maui’s most valuable exports.

“The distinctly sweet and subtle bite is the first thing,” says Charlie Owen, executive chef at Hula Grill in Whalers Village. “I’m sensitive to 72 Kā‘anapali Magazine

onions, and these are more pleasant to work with—not to mention the straight-up flavor, even raw. The Maui onion is ideal for frying because of its crispness, and its high sugar content means it caramelizes faster and sweeter. It’s a Maui-specific item you don’t see anywhere on the mainland.”

About 150 small farms in Kula produce a collective 2 million pounds of this pale-gold globe per year. Grown at elevations between 1,200 and 4,000 feet above sea level, these onions are infused with the flavors produced by the area’s rich, volcanic soil. Warren Watanabe, executive director of the Maui County Farm Bureau, likens the region’s influence on the onions to the terroir that defines fine French wines.

It’s enough to make other onions green with envy.

One of the festival’s signature events is the Maui Onion Recipe Contest, a culinary showdown for celebrity chefs from Maui, O‘ahu and the Big Island. At last year’s festival, my fellow judges and I feasted on such creations as a Maui onion flan with balsamic onions and Kumu Farms organic

beets, topped with an edible flower; and pan-roasted Maui onions with braised oxtail and Maui onion/hearts-of-palm purèe. Sheldon Simeon, a Top Chef finalist and executive chef of Mala Wailea and MiGRANT restaurants, served up a dish using funn noodles made with Maui onions. The winner, Chef James McDonald of Pacific’O Restaurant, treated the judges to smoked oysters with Maui onions, cucumber “noodles” and a soft egg with curry oil.

During the Maui Onion Challenge (the final competition for Kā‘anapali Resort chefs), contestants used the bulb as a crust for fish, in jams, pickled in a salad, and as a consommé with foie gras.

We judges even tasted cocktails using the Maui onion; the winner of the Mix Drink Contest showcased it with a concoction of sugarcane juice, tequila and ginger beer.

Of course, man does not live by onion alone. The festival also features a beer garden, live entertainment (from hula performances to jazz and reggae . . . even tunes by the Air Force Band), children’s activities like face-painting and lei-making, and crowd-pleasing food booths hosted by restaurants and hotel chefs from throughout the resort.

And then there’s the raw-onion-eating contest, with divisions for kids and adults. Bring a camera.

Nowhere will you see more throngs clamoring for a taste than at the booth where Maui Culinary Academy students sell deepfried onion rings, an annual fundraiser for the school.

Early in the week, the Maui County Farm Bureau delivers 800 pounds of Kula onions, which the students slice, batter and store at Hula Grill until that Saturday, when the rings are dropped into deep fryers and served to hungry patrons happy to wait in line for a crunchy nibble.

“Our students are always eager to participate in the Maui Onion Festival—until they see the 800 pounds of onions,” laughs Chris Speere, the Academy’s external coordinator. “Then they really start to cry.”

Levity aside, Speere says the festival is good for the students, who “are learning basic short-order and pantry skills.”

Chef Owen agrees. “It’s a great learning environment.

We assemble an army of culinary students, and thanks to the partnership between us and the college, it’s more fun than work.”

It’s also a huge success. Last year alone, the sale of these crispy fried onion rings raised $7,500 for the school. For information on the 26th annual Maui Onion Festival—including date, time, activities and pictures from past festivals—visit WhalersVillage. com/onionfestival.htm.

Above, from left: Academy students get set to fry Maui onion rings—800 pounds of them from Upcountry farms; a face-painted species of onion lover; Chef James McDonald holds his award for the 2014 Recipe Contest, an award he also won in 2010.

Clockwise from top: Youngsters try a variety of techniques in the raw-onion-eating contest. (Does holding your nose really help?) Chef McDonald’s winning dish: smoked oysters with Maui onions, cucumber noodles and egg with curry oil. Even better than watching the festival’s chef demonstrations is getting to sample the results. Dennis Day, also of Leilani’s on the Beach, won the Mix Drink Contest with his Sumatsu Sunset cocktail.

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 SEE Bringing Legend Alive

COURTESY OF KĀ’ANAPALI BEACH HOTEL

Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel’s new Legends of Kā‘anapali lū‘au tells the story of Polynesian migration from Tahiti to Hawai‘i through dance and spectacle, culminating in a stirring firewalk demonstration. Enjoy a buffet feast of favorite Hawaiian and local foods at this intimate production held Mondays in the hotel’s Tiki Courtyard, where the largest tiki in Hawai‘i presides over the evening’s festivities.

Details and reservations: 808667-0128, KBHMaui.com

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Obon Festivals

TOP: CHRIS TURNER; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

A centuries-old Buddhist tradition finds new life every summer here in the Islands. From June through August, typically quiet Buddhist temples welcome a flurry of revelers. At its core, obon is a time to honor the deceased. Families clean the graves of departed relatives and say prayers—but it’s not a somber occasion. The Technicolor festival is marked by vibrant kimono, bright lanterns, and booming taiko drums that awaken and welcome ancestors back to this world.

For this year’s schedule, visit MauiMagazine.net/EverydayMaui.

Lahaina Animal Farm

Chinese New Year

Warning: cuteness overload ahead. Young naturalists can come face to face with the animal kingdom during a tour at Lahaina Animal Farm.

They’ll meet a local Miss Piggy and other members of the farm’s menagerie. Kids can feed the animals, give the pigs a bath, cheer on a tortoise race, and ride a horse. Book group or private tours and prepare to meet your youngsters’ new best friends—like Tonka, the 100-pound desert tortoise, or a miniature horse named Kisses. 808-280-2597, LahainaAnimalFarm.com

It may be the Year of the Sheep, but a different animal will roar into town to mark this festive occasion. A lion dance and blessing usher in the lunar New Year at Lahaina’s Wo Hing Museum at 5 p.m. February 20. As the lion proceeds down Front Street to Banyan Tree Park, you can “feed” it money for luck. At the museum, enjoy firecrackers, martialarts demonstrations, children’s activities, a historical display and ethnic foods. Stick around for the grand finale, as the lions wind their way back to the museum at 9 p.m. for a thrilling dance, firecrackers and a blessing of the temple. Details: 808-661-3262, LahainaRestoration.org

OceanFest

The battle for saltwater supremacy unfolds during the inaugural Maui Jim OceanFest happening June 6 and 7 along Kā‘anapali Beach. Watch as athletes compete in five disciplines—swimming, standup paddling, surf-ski, one-man canoe, and prone paddleboard—for a chance at the $40,000 prize purse. Kids can take notes from the pros before testing their own skills during keiki races. Info: MauiJimOceanFest.com

Maui Steel Guitar Festival Spanish cowboys introduced the guitar to Hawai‘i in the 1800s. Islanders made it their own, loosening the strings to create a style called kī hō‘alu (“slack key”).

April 24 through 26, the Maui Steel Guitar Festival brings master musicians to Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel for free performances, workshops and jam sessions, plus a display of vintage Hawaiian steel guitars.

Info: 808-283-3576, MauiSteelGuitarFestival.com Spring-Summer 2015 75

 LEARN Maui’s Fishhook

COURTESY OF THE HYATT REGENCY MAUI RESORT & SPA

Polynesians know the constellation Scorpius by a different name: Ka Makau Nui o Maui—the great fishhook of Maui.

Their legends tell how the demigod used this magic hook to pull the islands up out of the sea. Eddie Mahoney (below at left), Hyatt Regency Maui’s director of astronomy, sees the myth as a metaphor. “Antares, the brightest star in the constellation, relates to the journey from Tahiti to Hawai‘i.” That journey could take months by canoe, and travelers would need to know what the weather would be like along the way—for example, when hurricanes were likely. Sailing from Tahiti at the time of year when Antares was directly overhead increased your chances of surviving to see the islands of Hawai‘i lifting above the horizon. Every evening, weather permitting, you can join Mahoney on the Hyatt’s rooftop, peer through the hotel’s telescopes, and learn how Hawaiians viewed the stars. Reservations: 808-667-4727

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

Lahaina Heritage Museum

TOP: J. ANTHONY MARTINEZ; RIGHT: MATTHEW ALLEN; LEFT: JASON MOORE; BOTTOM: MARTIN WYAND/REFLECTIONS PHOTOGRAPHY

History buffs will want to check out this exhibit on the second floor of the Old Lahaina Courthouse. Opened in August of 2013, the museum houses artifacts from Hawai‘i’s rich and eclectic past: pre-Contact, the monarchy, whaling, the missionary era, plantation days, and the birth of tourism.

You’ll also find the actual flag that flew above the courthouse during the Hawaiian monarchy. Assistant Postmaster Arthur Waal was ordered to lower the flag and raise the Stars and Stripes in 1898, when the United States annexed the Islands.

The Lahaina Heritage Museum is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., and admission is free.

Standuppaddling Lessons Standup paddling took the surfing scene by storm more than a decade ago, when folks spotted surf icons Laird Hamilton and Dave Kalama (former and current Maui residents, respectively) catching waves on their SUP boards. It has since become the world’s fastest-growing aquatic sport.

It’s easy to see why: standup paddling can be done on just about any body of water, so it appeals to leisurely types and thrill seekers alike.

Kaanapali Surf Club offers private introductory lessons on land and in the water. SUP rentals also available. Details at BamSurfHawaii.com

Tennis Lessons

Whether you can barely swing a racquet or have a backhand like Roger Federer, there’s a place for you at the Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch. Get individual lessons with the pros, or have the ranch match you with a playing partner at your level. Lessons available at the Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch and the Sheraton Maui Tennis Club. TennisMaui.com

Trapeze Lessons Emerald City Trapeze Arts is raising the bar for adventure.

It starts with lessons on solid ground; then students climb a twenty-five-foot ladder to the top of what resembles a jungle gym for adults. This outdoor flying trapeze and aerial-arts facility offers classes for anyone from firsttime flyers to the Flying Wallendas. It’s like a trip back to childhood, when you could spend hours swinging from bar to bar on the playground. Except this time, falling is pretty fun, too. 808-268-9697, EmeraldCityTrapezeMaui.com

Hula Lessons at Whalers Village

Hawai‘i’s King David Kalākaua said it best: “Hula is the language of the heart, and therefore the heartbeat of the Hawaiian people.”

Early missionaries banned the dance in the name of Christian values. Kalākaua lifted the ban when he came to power in 1874, and today hula remains an intrinsic part of Hawaiian culture. You are invited to explore this sacred dance during complimentary hula lessons from noon to 1 p.m. Wednesdays, and 3 to 4 p.m.

Thursdays at Whalers Village center stage. WhalersVillage.com Spring-Summer 2015 77

Wa‘a Kiakahi Before 747 Jumbo Jets, before propeller planes and steamships like Lurline and Malolo, the canoe was the mode of transport throughout Polynesia. The Hawaiian Sailing Canoe Association is perpetuating this cultural practice through its annual Wa‘a Kiakahi celebration, held at Kā‘anapali Beach June 6 and 7. Festivities include talks with HSCA crewmembers, and Hawaiian welcoming and closing ceremonies. Native Hawaiians believe that the best way to learn is by doing, and Wa‘a Kiakahi is your chance to experience this sport firsthand by joining one of the free sailing-canoe rides throughout the day. HSCA.info 78 Kā‘anapali Magazine

KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH RESORT ASSOCIATION/PETER LIU

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SEE LEARN DO

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Botanical Tour

Did you know that early Polynesian settlers brought with them a cornucopia of vital plants? The Westin Maui Resort & Spa offers a guided botanical tour for its guests on Wednesdays at 9 a.m. Participants meet at the North Lobby to explore the hotel’s sprawling gardens, and learn about “canoe crops” such as kalo (taro, sacred to Hawaiian culture) and ‘awa (used in ceremonial rituals). The tour brings alive the history of early Polynesians, and continues into the introduction of modern plants. Not staying at The Westin? Your smart phone can take you on a self-guided tour.

Scan the QR code featured on each botanical tour sign for detailed descriptions. WestinMaui.com/Wildlife

TOP: THE WESTIN MAUI RESORT & SPA; RIGHT: SHERATON MAUI RESORT & SPA; LEFT: TERALANI; BOTTOM: KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH RESORT ASSOCIATION/PETER LIU

Sunset Cruise When it comes to basking in Maui’s iconic sunsets, Kā‘anapali Resort guests have a frontrow view. How do you top that? Just add water.

Teralani Sailing Adventures ups the wow factor during its sunset sails. With 360-degree views that pan across Maui, Lāna‘i and Moloka‘i, there’s plenty of eye candy in every direction. If you’re lucky, you might spot Maui’s famous wintertime visitors during whale season. An open bar features wine, beer and cocktails for the twentyone-and-older crowd, or upgrade to the Sunset Dinner Sail for a gourmet meal prepared by the award-winning Chef Paris Nabavi. Teralani.net

Dining under the Stars As the sun drops below the horizon, a fire-bearing cliff diver sets tiki torches ablaze as he jogs to the pinnacle of Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock). Plumeria blossoms perfume the air, and ocean waves lull the sand to sleep. This is the tranquil and secluded setting for Dining under the Stars, a romantic dinner at the Sheraton Maui.

Choose from three seasonal menus designed to evoke an amorous mood. Not all the stars will be in the Milky Way above. Sheraton-Maui.com

Craft Fair

Bring home a handmade Maui memory. Island crafters offer their treasures—from souvenirs and jewelry to carvings and art pieces—at two open-air markets: The Westin Maui Resort & Spa on Mondays, and The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas on Fridays. Hours are 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Whalers Village Farmers’ Market

Eat like a local during this monthly ”Grown on Maui” Farmers Market at Whalers Village. Island farmers sell the fruit—and veggies—of their labor at this oceanfront market with a view.

Epicurean delights include exotic fruits, grass-fed beef, taro, and Maui’s famous bulb, the Kula onion. This well-stocked market also offers coffee, sugarcane, pineapples, seafood and more. Free admission and parking with validation. For details, call 661-3271 or visit KaanapaliResort.com.

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Calendar KĀ‘ANAPALI EVENTS

April 24–26 Maui Hawaiian Steel Guitar Festival, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel Three days of performance bring together master steel-guitar players and aficionados from around the world. For details, see story on page 75.

Ongoing Aloha Craft Fair Island crafters invite you to browse their handmade jewelry, carvings and other works of art. It’s the perfect place to find memorable keepsakes and gifts. Mondays on Kā‘anapali Beach fronting The Westin Maui Resort & Spa; Fridays on Kā‘anapali Beach fronting The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas; 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Ongoing Sushi School, Japengo, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa Ready, set, roll!

Put your fine-motor skills to work in this handson class held the second and fourth Saturdays of each month at Japengo, winner of the 2014 ‘Aipono Restaurant Award for Best Sushi. Chef Kaz and his expert staff provide personal instruction and complimentary nonalcoholic beverages. Learn the fundamentals that will foster a lifetime of sushi exploration. Thankfully, the only exam is a taste test at the end.

For information and reservations, call 808-6674727 or visit Maui.Hyatt.com.

Holiday Buffets at Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel Known for award-winning buffets, the hotel’s Tiki Terrace Restaurant offers holiday feasts throughout the year. For reservations, call 808667-0124 or visit TikiTerraceRestaurant.com. February 14 Valentine’s Day Dinner Swoon with your sweetie over a four-course dinner, hula show and dancing under the stars. February 22 Chinese New Year Brunch Ring in the Year of the Sheep with Chinese cuisine, fireworks, lion dancers and Hawaiian music.

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March 1 Hinamatsuri (Girls’ Day) Brunch Celebrate the girls and women in your life. Brunch features Japanese dishes, a kimono dress-up photo booth, performances and children’s activities. April 5 Easter Sunday Champagne Brunch Festivities begin with a children’s Easter-egg hunt, and continue with face painting, a petting farm, and an Easter dress-up photo booth, along with the all-you-can-eat Champagne brunch. Plus strolling Hawaiian entertainment and hourly Easter bunny visits. May 10 Mother’s Day Brunch Moms from around the island—and beyond— converge for this popular event that features food, Hawaiian entertainment, a designer fashion show and trunk sale. June 21 Father’s Day Brunch Dad is sure to feel the love at this buffet, which includes Hawaiian entertainment, prize giveaways, and more.

February 21 Sangrita Grill + Cantina’s Anniversary, Fairway Shops Raise your glass for a dual celebration as Sangrita Grill + Cantina marks its one-year anniversary and National Margarita Day with drink and food specials, plus live music from 3 to 10 p.m. A benefit for University of Hawai‘i–Maui Culinary Academy.

808-662-6000, SangritaGrill.com March 2 National Read across America Day, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas The Westin hosts reading sessions and other treats to celebrate the birthday of beloved children’s author Dr. Seuss. Westin Kaanapali.com

March 28 Earth Hour Observance, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas As part of the global Earth Hour initiative, The Westin Kā‘anapali invites its guests to participate in a luminary spectacle, astronomy teachings, a traditional Hawaiian fire-knife performance, glow-in-the-dark face painting and more.

WestinKaanapali.com

April 3 Fantasia Ball, Hyatt Regency Maui

Resort & Spa Hosted by Imua Family Services, this popular benefit gala helps fund therapeutic services for children with disabilities. The evening includes a cocktail reception, a fashion experience, live and silent auctions, and entertainment, beginning at 6 p.m. Not ready to stop dancing? Join Fantasia After Dark, with DJ beats until 2 p.m. For tickets and details, visit ImuaFamilyServices.org.

Maui Onion Festival, Whalers Village Maui’s famously sweet bulb takes center stage, with demonstrations by celebrity chefs, food samples, onion-recipe and raw-onion-eating contests, food and product booths, and live entertainment. See story on page 72.

May 5

Cinco de Mayo, Sangrita Grill + Cantina, Fairway Shops Celebrate the holiday in style with drink and food specials, plus live music from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. A benefit for Lahainaluna High School’s Agricultural Program.

808-662-6000, SangritaGrill.com

June 6–7 Wa‘a Kiakahi, Kā‘anapali Beach

The ancient Hawaiian art of outrigger-canoe sailing comes to life during this free event that coincides with the second race of the Hawaiian Sailing Canoe Association season. Festivities include sailing-canoe rides, talks with HSCA crewmembers, and Hawaiian welcoming and closing ceremonies. For details, visit HSCA.info.

July 4 Fourth of July Carnival & Flower Show, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, and The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas Leave it to the Westin to create this uniquely Hawaiian-style Independence Day celebration: an explosion of color that happens at noon when Blue Hawaiian Helicopters scatters thousands of fresh orchids into the skies and onto guests waiting at poolside. Gather the orchids and join one of the hotels’ lei-making sessions.

There will also be activities and food specials.

COURTESY OF KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH HOTEL

Ongoing Grown on Maui Farmers’ Market, Whalers Village Once a month, local farmers and food producers bring their fresh, local fare to the oceanfront lawn at Whalers Village.

Come meet them and shop a vibrant selection of pineapples, onions, sugar cane, coffee and more. Hours are 7:30 to 11:30 a.m. Free admission and parking with validation. For details and dates, visit KaanapaliResort.com.

100% MAUI GROWN COFFEE, BREAKFAST, SANDWICHES, SALADS, SMOOTHIES & MORE! (ACCESS FROM THE BOARDWALK TO MAUI’S BEST COFFEE)

AT HONUA KAI RESORT & SPA, KA‘ANAPALI • (808) 662-2832 BUY COFFEE ONLINE: WWW.AINAGOURMETCOFFEE.COM COFFEE ROASTING & TASTING TOUR: O’O FARM, KULA, MAUI • RESERVATIONS: (808) 667-4341 OR WWW.OOFARM.COM

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Spring-Summer 2015 81

Calendar MAUI EVENTS April 30 Sierra Leon’s Refugee All Stars Musicians and singers, the All Stars have risen like a phoenix out of the ashes of war to enflame the passions of fans with uplifting songs of hope, faith and joy. 7:30 p.m.

Maui Arts & Cultural Center (MACC), One Cameron Way, Kahului 808-242-SHOW (7469), MauiArts.org

February 13–16 Whale Tales, Old Lahaina

Center, 878 Front St., Lahaina Experts share the latest whale research. See story on page 42.

February 14

Parade of Whales/World Whale Day, Kalama Park, Kīhei Parade starts at 9 a.m. and heads down South Kīhei Road.

Festivities continue 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. at Kalama Park with live entertainment, children’s carnival, artisans’ fair, environmental displays and more.

808-249-8811, ext. 1; MauiWhaleFestival.org

February 14–22 Maui Plein Air Painting Invitational Two-dozen renowned plein-air painters from Hawai‘i and the mainland spend the week capturing Maui on canvas. Come watch. MauiPleinAirPainting.org February 15–March 25

Insights & Explorations, Viewpoints Gallery, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao This exhibition highlights new works by seven women who are influencing Maui’s contemporary art scene.

Reception February 15, 5 p.m. 808-572-5979, ViewpointsGalleryMaui.com

February 19 Sara Evans, MACC Winner of numerous country-music awards—including the Academy of Country Music’s Top Female Vocalist for 2006—Evans is known for such hits as “No Place That Far” and “A Little Bit Stronger.”

February 20

Chinese New Year Lahaina celebrates the lunar New Year with a traditional lion dance, firecrackers, kung fu demonstrations and more. See story on page 75.

82 Kā‘anapali Magazine

February 21 Jake Shimabukuro Castle Theater, MACC Renowned for superfast and complex finger work, this ‘ukulele wizard has redefined this beloved instrument.

February 22

Great Whale Count Pacific Whale Foundation leads this citizens’ count of humpback whales visible from Maui’s shores.

Training and materials are provided. Maui WhaleFestival.org

March 22 Maui POPS Goes to the Ballet, Castle Theater, MACC Maui Academy of Performing Arts partners with the Maui Pops Orchestra to present the comic ballet Coppelia, with music by Léo Delibes. 3 p.m.

May 16 Maui Matsuri, University of Hawai‘i–Maui College, 310 Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului Japanese and Okinawan culture shine at this free festival featuring storytelling, exhibits, food and craft booths, kimono fashions, taiko drumming, children’s activities, contests and obon dancing. 808-984-3500, MauiMatsuri.com June through August

Obon Festivals Each weekend in summer, a different Buddhist temple on Maui invites everyone to share in this tradition of honoring the ancestors with dance, taiko drumming, food and festivities. See story on page 75.

June 20

McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Storyteller Lopaka Kapanui masterfully weaves tales of Old Hawai‘i, exploring the question, “Are Hawai‘i’s gods and ghosts a thing of the past?”

His answers may surprise you. 7:30 p.m.

MAMo on Maui: Wearable Art Show, Yokouchi Pavilion, MACC This popular runway show by native Hawaiian designers features cutting-edge design, as well as “creative comfort” in traditional patterns and motifs that have been translated for contemporary styles. 7:30 p.m.

April 24–25

June 28 Kī Hō‘alu Slack-Key Guitar Festival

March 20 Legends & Ghosts of Hawai‘i,

Shoyu on Rice, McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Kumu Kahua Theatre presents this play about students at an all-boys’ high school who must deal with their use of Pidgin English when a substitute teacher from Kansas takes over their classroom. 7:30 p.m.

May 2–3

Olukai Ho‘olaule‘a, Kanahā Beach Park, Kahului Some of the world’s fastest SUP and OC1 paddlers race for saltwater supremacy on this eight-mile Māliko Bay “downwinder.” Back on land, activities celebrate Hawai‘i’s ocean culture. Olukai.com/hoolaulea

May 9 Visitor Industry Charity Walk, War Memorial Center, Kanaloa & Ka‘ahumanu Avenues Join Maui Hotel & Lodging Association’s biggest fundraiser of the year. The 5K course begins and ends at the War Memorial soccer field. 7 a.m. MauiHLA.org

A&B Amphitheater, MACC An annual tradition that’s fun for the whole family, this free outdoor concert showcases an all-star lineup of Hawai‘i’s slack-key musicians. 1–7 p.m.

July 4–5 Makawao Rodeo & Parade Hawai‘i’s top cowboys and cowgirls compete at Oskie Rice Arena on Olinda Road above Makawao town. Saturday’s parade through the town starts at 9 a.m. 808-283-2741 July 11 Nā Hōkū Hou! Yokouchi Pavilion, MACC This annual concert features winners from the prestigious Nā Hōkū Hanohano Awards, Hawai‘i’s version of the Grammys.

Events are subject to change.

Please call to confirm before heading out.

COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

February 7–22 Maui Open Studios Meet isle artists in their element. Preview exhibit at Maui Tropical Plantation, January 31. The next three weekends divide the island regionally: West and South Maui, February 7–8; Upcountry, February 14–15; Hāna, Central and North Maui, February 21–22. MauiOpenStudios.com

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305 Keawe Street-Lahaina Gateway Center

808.298.0916

PhotograPhs: tony novak-Clifford

MAGGIE COULOMBE

Whalers Village, 2435 Ka¯‘anapali Parkway, Lahaina, HI 96761 (808) 344-6672 | www.MaggieCoulombe.com