Kā'anapali Magazine Fall/Winter 2021-2022

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Table of Contents | Features

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PLANTATION DAYS

Travel into the past and see what life was like on Maui during the plantation era. Story by Jill Engledow

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KĀ‘ANAPALI CRUISING

Sail away with Teralani Adventures and experience a snorkeling cruise to remember. Story by Kyle Ellison

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HAWAI‘I’S SPIRIT GUARDIANS

Learn about the magical powers ‘aumākua are said to possess. Story by Rita Goldman

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THE ROYAL TREATMENT

Explore the pampering possibilities at the Royal Lahaina’s Alana Spa. Story by Lara McGlashan

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PAR FOR THE COURSE

See what’s new at the world-famous Kā‘anapali Golf Courses. Story by Kyle Ellison

Left: The renovated open-air lounge at The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa takes full advantage of Kā‘anapali’s spectacular views. Cover: A sunset paints the sky over The Westin Maui Resort & Spa in spectacular shades of pink and purple. Ever wonder how many strokes it takes to paddle the length of Kā‘anapali Beach? Find out on page 46.

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COVER COURTESY OF THE WESTIN MAUI RESORT & SPA / THIS PAGE COURTESY OF THE SHERATON MAUI RESORT & SPA

A REIMAGINED RESORT

Kā‘anapali Beach Resort is better than ever! Here’s what’s new, what’s revamped and what’s in store for our guests. Story by Sarah Ruppenthal


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Table of Contents | Dining & Departments

Order chef Chris Kajioka’s signature poke bowl with a side of volcano-spiced fries at waicoco, located in The Westin Maui Resort & Spa. Learn more about this popular new restaurant on page 44.

DINING 44

DEPARTMENTS 10

Experience waicoco, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa’s newest dining venue. Story by Becky Speere

Here are some of the talented folks who make our magazine nō ka ‘oi (the best).

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Check out the latest hot spot at The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, offering delicious food, cold drinks — and amazing views. Story by Becky Speere

President of Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association Tets Yamazaki welcomes you to paradise.

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Looking for adventure, culture or island history? Whatever you’re into, you’ve come to the right place.

Hungry? Whatever you’re in the mood for, you’ll find it at Kā‘anapali — just a beach walk away.

Use this resort map to find shopping, food and fun.

The Sandbar

Dining Guide

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Contributors

Welcome Letter

Map Quest

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Nīele In Hawaiian, nīele means inquisitive — and if you’re curious about the nature, people and culture of Kā‘anapali, turn here for some insight. Stories by Shannon Wianecki & Lara McGlashan

See Learn Do

COURTESY OF THE WESTIN MAUI RESORT & SPA

Brunch by the Sea


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maui’s better with cocktails hula grill leilani’s on the beach monkeypod kitchen

The official publication of the Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association PUBLISHED BY Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Lara McGlashan ART DIRECTOR John Giordani CONSULTING EDITOR Rita Goldman WEBSITE MANAGER Adelle Lennox DIGITAL MEDIA MANAGER Felix Sunny D’Souza DIGITAL EDITOR Krista Garcia MARKETING & ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGER Brooke Tadena ADVERTISING SALES 808-242-8331 ADMINISTRATION CONTROLLER Kao Kushner SUBSCRIPTIONS & OFFICE MANAGER Nancy Wenske CONTRIBUTORS WRITERS

Kyle Ellison, Jill Engledow, Rita Goldman, Lara McGlashan, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere, Shannon Wianecki PHOTOGRAPHERS

Edward Baldwin, Blair Bigham, Cesere Brothers, Kyle Ellison, John Giordani, Mieko Horikoshi, Jason Moore, Alan Schmierer, Ryan Siphers, Becky Speere E-MAIL Info@MauiMagazine.net Kā‘anapali Magazine is published semiannually in cooperation with the Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association by Haynes Publishing Group, Inc., 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI, 96793 | 808-2428331 All rights reserved. ©2021 This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. Printed in USA. Individual issues are available upon written request at $3 (U.S.) per magazine, plus postage and handling.

Kā‘anapali Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi, an environmental leader whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

beachfront shopping, dining and entertainment. WHALERSVILLAGE.COM | 2435 Kaanapali Parkway, Lahaina, Maui Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi and Kā‘anapali Magazines

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ufo parasail and adventures


Contributors | Writers & Photographers

Cesere Brothers

As children playing in the frigid tide pools of Maine, Dan and John Cesere made a pact to live on an island and pursue a career that enabled them to explore the ocean. After spending more than 20 years on Maui, John and his family moved back to Maine while Dan remained. Both continue to work as underwater photographers. CesereBrothers.com

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Kyle Ellison

Feelance writer Kyle Ellison is the author of Moon Handbooks Maui: Including Moloka‘i, and Lāna‘i. His work has appeared in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, Travel + Leisure, The San Francisco Chronicle, Travel Channel, Escape, Journey, Hana Hou! and Hawai‘i Magazine. Ellison lives in Kula with his wife and three sons. @gooutsideandexplore_

Jill Engledow

An award-winning writer specializing in Maui history, Jill Engledow worked as a reporter and editor at The Maui News for 17 years. She has authored a number of books including The Story of Lahaina and Haleakalā: A History of the Maui Mountain. Engledow is currently working on a trilogy of novels set on Maui. jillengledow.com

Rita Goldman

Of Rita Goldman’s numerous writing awards, she is proudest of the Hawai‘i Book Publishers Association’s 2004 Award of Excellence for her pictorial history Every Grain of Rice: Portraits of Maui’s Japanese Community. In this issue, the consulting editor for Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi investigates ‘aumākua, Hawai‘i’s spirit guardians.

Mieko Horikoshi

Equal parts foodie and photographer, Mieko Horikoshi is a member of the Professional Photographers of America and the American Society of Media Photographers. Born and raised in Japan, Horikoshi moved to Maui in 1994 where she currently lives with her two daughters. @miekophoto @miekophotoportrait


Lara McGlashan

Lara McGlashan has been a writer and editor for more than 20 years. She is currently the editorin-chief for Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, and the brand director and editor-in-chief for Oxygen magazine. In 2020, McGlashan finally realized her dream of living on Maui and currently resides in Kīhei with her son and cattledog. @laraoxyeditor

Jason Moore

Photographer Jason Moore is a longtime contributor to Kā‘anapali Magazine and sister publication Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine. Moore spends his winters working with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) as a research and rescue assistant for humpback whale research. JasonAshleyMoore.com

Sarah Ruppenthal

Sarah Ruppenthal is an award-winning journalist and freelance writer. Her stories have appeared in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, Honolulu Star-Advertiser and The Maui News, among others. When she’s not working on a story, Ruppenthal can be found relaxing at home on Maui’s north shore with her husband, Matt, and 125-pound “puppy,” Odie.

MASTERS OF HAWAIIAN MUSIC

Ryan Siphers

Professional photographer Ryan Siphers has lived on Maui since 2007, and enjoys working, playing and raising his family on the island. His job enables him to explore amazing landscapes, gorgeous homes and interesting people. Siphers also collaborates with chefs to photograph great food. RyanSiphers Photography.com

Becky Speere

Chef consultant, former owner of Pa‘uwela Cafe in Ha‘ikū, and dining editor for Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, Becky Speere, grew up on the Big Island amid a world of flavors: butter beans, ham hocks, bamboo shoots, fiddlehead ferns and wild-boar sausage. It’s no wonder she became an expert in the gastronomic realm!

Shannon Wianecki

Shannon Wianecki was named 2016 Travel Writer of the Year by the Hawai‘i Ecotourism Association, and Best Independent Journalist by the Society of Professional Journalists. Wianecki has traveled to Iceland, the South Pacific and all points in between, but her favorite spot is the beach within walking distance of her home here on Maui. @swianecki

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Letter from the Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association

E Komo Mai

(Welcome)

After a long, challenging year, we are delighted to welcome back our returning guests as well as first-time visitors to our Islands and to Maui. We are especially excited to introduce you to the newly enhanced Kā‘anapali Beach Resort! Our reimagined properties are as stunning as they are functional, with improved guest experiences, amazing room renovations, new dining venues and much, much more. This issue of Kā‘anapali Magazine highlights many of the recent changes at our family of resorts. The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa recently opened The Sandbar, Kā‘anapali’s premier open-air coffee and cocktail bar located in the lobby lounge. Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel considered feedback from both guests and employees when redesigning its rooms and its new oceanfront restaurant, Huihui. The Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa is debuting its brand-new lobby as well as its redesigned guest rooms, which blend authentic Hawaiian decor with modern touches such as glassed-in lānai and energy-saving thermostats. And The Westin Maui Resort & Spa is proud to present Hōkūpa‘a, an incredible luxury tower where guests enjoy exclusive access to The Lānai, an open-air lounge with infinity-edge cocktail pools, among other perks. Kā‘anapali Magazine is your guide to all the activities and amenities that make Kā‘anapali Beach Resort a renowned global destination. Highlights include The Hyatt Regency’s interactive chef experiences, The Sheraton Maui’s family game room and The Westin Maui’s star-navigation courses and ceremonial torch lighting and blowing of the pū (conch shell) at sunset. Of course, we still offer long-standing guest favorites such as lū‘au, shopping, golf, tennis and plenty of ocean adventures. Check with your concierge for updated hours and any new protocols put in place for your health and safety. Resorts aside, there is a lot of incredible and entertaining information packed into these pages. Read about the mysterious habits of the octopus, what life was like during the plantation days and all about ‘aumākua, Hawai‘i’s spirit guardians. Follow photographer/writer Kyle Ellison as he takes a snorkeling tour on Teralani’s new luxury catamaran — and comes face-to-face with a surprise guest. See what’s new and exciting at Kā‘anapali Golf Courses, and discover the amazing treatments awaiting you inside Alana Spa at the Royal Lahaina. Hungry? See what dining editor Becky Speere recommends for brunch at waicoco, the Westin’s newest dining venue, and what to order at The Sandbar while experiencing an unparalleled Maui sunset. We sincerely hope you enjoy this issue of Kā‘anapali Magazine; feel free to take it home as a souvenir of your stay. With aloha in our hearts, we welcome you back and invite you to explore the renewed Kā‘anapali Beach Resort.

Past issues of Kā‘anapali Magazine are available online. Go to MauiMagazine.net/ Kaanapali and click “Free Digital Edition.”

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Tetsuji Yamazaki President, Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association

MIEKO HORIKOSHI

Mahalo,


A Constellation, A Gathering, A Mixture - All things Huihui A voyage begins...call for more information (808) 667-0124 | huihuirestaurant.com


KAPALUA 4.7 MI Honoapi‘ilani Highway

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A

T

B

Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas

O

P

Keka‘a Drive

C

Royal Lahaina Resort

Maui Eldorado Kaanapali

Kā‘anapali Parkway

V Aqualani Beach & Ocean Recreation Locations Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa The Westin Maui Resort & Spa

E

D

E

Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel

Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa

Beachwalk

U NORTH

Q

Resort Map Hotels & Condos

Spas & Salons

Dining

A. Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas B. Royal Lahaina Resort C. Maui Eldorado Kaanapali by Outrigger D. The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa E. Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel F. Aston at The Whaler on Kā‘anapali Beach G. The Westin Maui Resort & Spa H. Kaanapali Alii Resort I. Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club J. Hyatt Residence Club, Kā‘anapali Beach K. Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa L. Kā‘anapali Royal

Alana Spa (B) Alii Spa (H) Beauty of Aloha Spa & Salon (E) Heavenly Spa by Westin* (G) Kamaha‘o, a Marilyn Monroe Spa* (K) The Spa at Black Rock* (D) The Spa at The Whaler (F) Spa Maui & Massage (O) Spa by the Sea (I) Spa Breathe Maui (A)

A. Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas Castaway Café B. Royal Lahaina Resort Royal Ocean Terrace Royal Scoop D. Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa Cliff Dive Grill Mai Tai Bar The Sandbar Teppan-Yaki Dan E. Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel Huihui Tiki Terrace Restaurant Welowelo G. The Westin Maui Resort & Spa Hale Mo‘olelo Mahele Market & Eatery Starbucks waicoco I. Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club Beach Walk Kau Kau To Go Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room Starbucks

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* Full spa (wet & dry therapies)

J. Hyatt Residence Club Lahaina Provision Company Pau Huaka‘i Tiki Bar K. Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa Grotto Bar Honolulu Coffee Company Japengo Swan Court Breakfast/ Son’z Steakhouse Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice ‘Ūmalu M. Roy’s Kā‘anapali N. Whalers Village Choice Health Bar Da Nani Pirates Häagen-Dazs Hula Grill & Barefoot Bar Leilani’s on the Beach Monkeypod Kitchen Ono Gelato Company Whalers Village Food Court O. Fairway Shops China Bowl Asian Cuisine Island Press Coffee Maca Dang Dang Sunny Yoke Round Table Pizza


LAHAINA 3 MI Honoapi‘ilani Highway

L

M

Kā‘anapali Royal

rive aD ka‘ Ke

K Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa

y wa ark P ali Kā‘anap

F

G

N

Aston at The Whaler

J H

Kaanapali Alii Resort

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S

Activities Your concierge will be happy to provide a full list of resortwide attractions. Here’s a sample:

Aqualani Beach & Ocean Recreation (V) Hale Huaka’i Ocean Activities Center (E) Island Style Adventures (F) Kā‘anapali Golf Courses Clubhouse (M) Ka‘anapali Surf Club (U) Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch (T) Skyline Eco Adventures (P) Sunset Cliff Dive Ceremony (Q) Teralani Sailing Adventures (R) UFO Parasail & Adventures (S)

Lū‘au Drums of the Pacific Lū‘au (K) Maui Nui Lū‘au at Black Rock (D) The Myths of Maui Lū‘au (B) Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au (G)

Hyatt Residence Club, Kā‘anapali Beach

rive Kai D a e h No

The Westin Maui Resort & Spa

U

I

Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club

Beachwalk

U

U

Shopping

Public Parking

Medical Services

N. Whalers Village Shopping Center

Beach Access

Kā‘anapali Trolley

Apparel, dining, jewelry, sundries, gifts, art, specialty services, real estate

O. Fairway Shops at Kā‘anapali Dining, sundries, services, salons, spas

Royal Trading Company (B) The Shops at Hyatt Regency Maui (K) Shops at The Westin Maui Resort (G)

Kā‘anapali Trolley: 808-667-0648 Kā‘anapali area only. Travel complimentary among Kā‘anapali hotels, golf courses, Whalers Village Shopping Center and Fairway Shops. Runs from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. kaanapalitrolley.info ADA lifts.

Maui Public Bus Transit (Roberts Hawai‘i) 808-871-4838 Departing from Whalers Village Shopping Center in Kā‘anapali, take a ride to Kapalua Resort, Lahaina Cannery Mall, Wharf Cinema Center in Lahaina, or Walmart in Kahului. $1 – $2 between points. Call for details.

DISTANCES Hyatt to Golf Course................................... 0.5 Mile Hyatt to Whalers Village............................ 0.5 Mile Hyatt to Sheraton........................................ 1 Mile Sheraton to Golf Course............................ 1 Mile

Hyatt to Royal Lahaina............................... 1.5 Miles Royal Lahaina to Golf Course................... 1.5 Miles Kā‘anapali to Lahaina (Banyan Tree)...... 3 Miles Kā‘anapali to Kapalua Airport.................. 3.5 Miles Kā‘anapali to Kahului Airport.................... 26 Miles

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Nīele | Nature

Ar

med &

r e t Mys b Story

s u io

y Shanno

He‘e (octopuses) have brief but magical lives. They mature within a year, mate and die shortly thereafter. What happens in between is the stuff of sci-fi flicks — and Beatles songs. A Hawaiian proverb recounts the best time to look for these mystifying creatures: Pua ke kō, kū mai ka he‘e. “When the kō (sugarcane) flowers, the octopus appears.” Hawaiian sugarcane blooms in November, which corresponds with peak abundance of octopuses on the reefs. The “day octopus” (Octopus cyanea) is the most common cephalopod in Hawaiian waters. By day it slinks along the reef, hunting crabs and snails. At night it slips into a tiny cavity to rest. Divers can spot an octopus den by the empty shells piled at its entrance — otherwise known as an “octopus garden.” Spotting he‘e at large underwater isn’t so easy. These masters of camouflage are intelligent and as slippery as Houdini. They can alter their appearance in seconds and escape just

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n Wianecki | Photo by Cesere Bro

thers

about any enclosure. Sensory organs on their eight arms allow them to perfectly mimic the colors and textures of surrounding corals. If threatened, he‘e can shoot a cloud of ink and disappear in the opposite direction. According to Hawaiian ethnologist Mary Kawena Pukui, octopus ink, or kūkae uli, was a nickname for those who created distractions to escape punishment. The term also applied to prostitutes during Hawai‘i’s whaling days. Speaking of sex, that of the octopus is otherworldly. A male he‘e pursues a female across the seafloor, their bodies transforming in shape and color as they move. Finally, he unfurls a come-hither tentacle — a specially adapted arm loaded with spermatophores — and slips it into her mantle cavity. Then off he goes. She retreats into her lair, which she decorates with strings of fertilized eggs. For six weeks, she gently fans oxygenated water across her brood without pause. She actually starves to death, but her progeny live on to repopulate the reef.


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Nīele | People

People Person

Story by Lara McGlashan | Photo by Mieko Horikoshi

In 2019, Tetsuji “Tets” Yamazaki watched as more than 2,400 participants gathered at the War Memorial Soccer Field in Wailuku for the 5K Hawai‘i Visitor Industry Charity Walk, one of the largest single-day fundraising events in all of Hawai‘i. Yamazaki was named that year’s chair of the event for Maui County, an honor he didn’t take lightly. “It was extremely humbling to watch our community come together as one big ‘ohana [family] to make a difference,” he says. “More than 100 nonprofit agencies benefited from the 1.4 million raised statewide, and all of the funds that were raised here in Maui County stayed right here to benefit the local community.” Traditionally, the Charity Walk is held in May, but in 2020 and 2021 it was postponed due to the pandemic. “I don’t know what plans hold for 2022 at this time,” says Yamazaki when asked if he will again chair the event. But it’s just as well, because Yamazaki’s main focus has been the reopening of the Sheraton after its major renovation. “We unveiled a complete transformation of the lobby in 2020 with an expansive wraparound lānai and viewing deck with unrivaled ocean views, as well as Kā‘anapali’s first lobby bar, The Sandbar,” he says. Originally from Japan, Yamazaki began his hospitality career 29 years ago as a bellman at a large international hotel in Tokyo. His work took him to Honolulu, then to Kona, and finally here to Maui where he has lived ever since. Yamazaki has served as the general manager of the Sheraton for the past decade and owns that the everchanging nature of his position keeps things interesting. “My demands are always evolving, especially in the last year, where every

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day has been different, and new circumstances have required us all to be more adaptable,” he says. “In general, I [help] ensure that we are exceeding guest expectations, take care of our associates and engage with our local community while also overseeing revenue generation, strategy execution, and brand and resort loyalty.” Yamazaki’s favorite part of his job is engendering happy customers. “I love to hear that we’ve made a lasting impact on a guest’s stay,” he says. “Whether a guest felt a positive connection to our resort, or an associate assisted in creating a special moment for one of our guests — nothing surpasses knowing that we’re part of lifelong memories.” As things open back up, Yamazaki is excited to launch several new guest experiences, such as wine tastings at The Sandbar, daily live music and talk story sessions. “On days when we don’t have a structured event, guests can still greet their stay in paradise with a toast while trying our curated pūpū [appetizers] and cocktail menu,” he says. When he’s not working, you’ll find Yamazaki on the links. “I really enjoy golfing,” he says. “I’m lucky that we have one of the world’s best courses nearby!”


Whether you’re looking for a small ceremony or an open-air venue for your group celebration, Ka‘anapali Golf Courses is a gorgeous Oceanside venue along the award-winning Ka‘anapali Beach on Maui!

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The Pioneer Mill Company operated steam locomotives like No. 6, Kahana, to transport sugarcane from the fields to the mill for processing.

Plantation Days Sugarcane no longer sways in the breeze on the hills above Lahaina and Kā‘anapali, but sweet memories remain of the time when plantation life meant everything to the people of West Maui. Pioneer Mill, which once grew cane on more than 10,000 acres, harvested its last crop in 1999. The old mill in Lahaina town was dismantled, leaving only a tall smokestack to be saved and restored. Even before that, plantation “camps” — the villages that housed the workers — had slowly disappeared. Yet, the plantation era is remembered not only in landmarks like the smokestack, but also in food, customs and attitudes. Pioneer Mill began in 1860, in the days when entrepreneurs sought cash-producing industries for the Islands. They found that sugarcane worked; it flourished in Hawai‘i and withstood the long journey to the mainland. Over the decades, plantation life on Maui grew to include pineapple, which was planted north of Kā‘anapali in Honolua; a cannery built on the shore in Lahaina prepared the fruit for shipment. Those who grew and processed these crops were a diverse crew, and included not only Native Hawaiians, but also many thousands of workers brought in from afar by the plantations. These people carried with them cultures from China, Japan, Portugal, Puerto Rico and the Philippines, and their interactions produced a new kind of community. The workers shared the surplus of a mango tree or a fishing trip, celebrated each other’s holidays and mixed and combined their words and grammar to form a brand new language called “Pidgin.” They even developed a new, local cuisine, 20 Kā‘anapali Magazine

For more than 30 years, this bell alerted West Siders that engine No. 6, Kahana, was coming down the tracks. The locomotive operated from 1921 to 1953.

TOP: PIONEER MILL COMPANY / LEFT: JOHN GIORDANI

Story by Jill Engledow


BOTTOM LEFT: RYAN SIPHERS / ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF LAHAINA RESTORATION FOUNDATION

Clockwise from top left: Japanese women, dressed for protection from the sun, labor at hoe hana (hoe work) to clear weeds. Chinese workers, photographed here in 1890, were the first immigrant group recruited to Hawai‘i to grow, harvest and process cane. An old mill gear stands outside the MauiGrown Coffee Company store. Cane fields carpet West Maui’s mountain above Pioneer Mill in the 1960s.

Fall 2021–Winter 2022 21


with recipes and ingredients derived from the dishes they shared each day from their lunchboxes. Pioneer Mill’s workers lived in more than 40 camps along the 10-mile stretch of coast from Honokōhau to Ukumehame. One of the largest camps, Pu‘ukoli‘i, was just up the hill from Kā‘anapali. Today, if you drive up Pu‘ukoli‘i Road, you’ll see modern neighborhoods on one side and open land on the other, with a gate at the end of the road. It’s hard to imagine that once this was a thriving little town with shops, churches, a theater, and kids running barefoot through the red West Maui dust. At age five, artist Macario Pascual moved from the Philippines to Pu‘ukoli‘i to live with his plantation-worker father. Even as a child, Pascual could draw, and that talent led to a successful career in the arts. Former plantation folks, some of whom now work in Kā‘anapali, have stories that match his works of art. One of them is Gilbert Sablas, the beloved “Ambassador of Aloha” at the Royal Lahaina Resort. Sablas, the son of a Hawaiian mother and a Filipino immigrant father, grew up expecting to work on a plantation; his father was a sugar laborer, and his mother worked for Maui Pineapple Company. Sablas did his time in the pineapple fields, a summertime custom for kids in those days, then went off to the military. When he returned home in 1968, tourism was growing, and he became a bellman at the Royal Lahaina Resort. More than 50 years later, he’s still there, sharing tales of the old days when the West Side was all plan22 Kā‘anapali Magazine

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF MACARIO PASCUAL / LAHAINA RESTORATION FOUNDATION / BECKY SPEERE / RYAN SIPHERS

Clockwise from top left: One of Macario Pascual’s many oil paintings, “Sweet Cane,” pays homage to his father’s days spent laboring in the cane fields; Even though the plantation is long gone, Pascual still creates works of art based on old photographs from Lahaina-area families. Workers line up for payday circa 1908 outside the building that now houses the MauiGrown Coffee Company store. Joey’s Kitchen in Whalers Village features savory plantation-style dishes. Even today, the old Pioneer Mill smokestack stands beside the MauiGrown Coffee Company store.


Gilbert Sablas, the “Ambassador of Aloha,” is the Royal Lahaina’s unofficial local historian. He grew up in a camp with plantation-worker parents, and fondly remembers when agrarian life in West Maui was simpler.

U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY / INSET: JASON MOORE

This 1950s aerial photo shows Kā‘anapali when it was part of the Pioneer Mill plantation. The topography where Kā‘anapali Resort sits today was covered with scrubby brush and kiawe, and the grounds of the plantation’s long-gone Kā‘anapali Village at Pu‘u Keka‘a are now occupied by The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa.

tation land. “People were poor and worked hard, but we made the most of what it was,” he says. “I was born and raised with this lifestyle and I enjoyed every day of it.” The plantations may be gone, Sablas says, “but there are a lot of memories out there.” He tries to nurture those memories by sharing them with others so the good old days are not forgotten. Sablas finds that many visitors are curious about the culture of Hawai‘i, and fortunately, there still are tangible reminders of the plantation era as well as stories. Visitors can literally get a taste of Hawai‘i’s plantation-era cuisine right in Kā‘anapali at Joey’s Kitchen, located in the downstairs food court in Whalers Village. The venue offers a range of local dishes from simple breakfasts to artfully arranged fusion dishes based on the Filipino recipes of chef Joey Macadangdang’s heritage. The former head chef at Roy’s Kā‘anapali, Macadangdang adds nuance to dishes familiar to most islanders, like pancit and lumpia. Though sugar wasn’t grown in the area that is now Kā‘anapali Resort,

the remnants of a plantation-era pier remain on the north side of Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock), which today is fenced off for safety. In the early 20th century, however, this would have been a busy locale: sugar workers used this pier to load their product onto ships for export, and unloaded supplies for the plantation and its people. Lahaina offers several physical reminders of the plantation days, many of which are preserved and maintained by the Lahaina Restoration Foundation. Around the old Pioneer Mill smokestack, look for an exhibit featuring antique mill and cane-field equipment, interpretive plaques and sugar-train locomotives. The Wo Hing Museum on Front Street was originally built as a social hall for Chinese immigrants. The Plantation Museum, found upstairs at The Wharf Cinema Center, celebrates West Maui’s plantation era with photos and displays of tools, heirlooms and appliances from plantation camps and family homes in Lahaina. There are also a number of plantation-era Buddhist temples on Maui, such as the one found on Luakini and Waine‘e streets in Lahaina, and the Fall 2021–Winter 2022 23


Top to bottom: This map, circa 1936, depicts the plantation village at Kā‘anapali Landing. Field workers surrounded by flourishing sugarcane pause for a photo. The Lahaina Heritage Museum at the Old Lahaina Courthouse displays artifacts from the plantation era. More artifacts are preserved in the Plantation Museum at The Wharf Cinema Center on Front Street.

most stunning temple on-island, Lahaina Jodo Mission, located between Lahaina town and Kā‘anapali at Pu‘unoa Point. The Mission grounds feture a great Buddha statue — the largest found outside of Japan — and a temple bell completed in June 1968 to commemorate the centennial of the first Japanese immigrants to come to Hawai‘i. Each summer, the temples hold festivals where participants honor their ancestors by performing traditional bon dances; visitors are welcome to observe and even join in. Everyone is invited to enjoy customary, local treats like shave ice, saimin and teriyaki meat sticks — just a few flavorful reminders of the plantation era that shaped West Maui’s past.q

LAHAINA RESTORATION FOUNDATION

See Macario Pascual’s paintings of plantation life at the Village Galleries Maui in Lahaina, 120 Dickenson St. | 808.661.4402 | FB @macario.pascual.73 | pascual.fineartstudioonline.com

24 Kā‘anapali Magazine



Kā‘anapali Cruising Enjoy over-the-top adventure

while exploring under the sea. Story by Kyle Ellison

TOP: COURTESY OF TERALANI SAILING ADVENTURES / BOTTOM: KYLE ELLISON

Above: Teralani’s fleet of comfortable catamarans has been cruising West Maui for more than 25 years. Below: Honolua Bay is teeming with fish, such as this school of akule (bigeye scad) swimming together in unison.

26 Kā‘anapali Magazine


Above: A school of manini (convict tang) nibbles algae off the coral beneath the boat. Below: The wide stairway off the bow of the Teralani 5 makes entering the ocean a breeze.

alani 5, whose polished railings and scuff-free decks impart the feeling of a manicured yacht. The spacious outside seating affords the perfect vantage point to spot marine life as we motor up Maui’s west coast to Honolua Bay. The spray from whitecaps breaking on the bow mirrors the wispy clouds above. We’re about a mile offshore and can easily make out the deep, V-shaped valleys that cut through West Maui’s mountain, and the forested ridgeline reaching for the heavens. In the distance, Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i seem to hover just above the water. An hour or so later we reach Honolua Bay, a Marine Life Conservation District with some of Maui’s best snorkeling. This protected cove is an iconic Island treasure, and our captain moors our boat just off a reef teeming with turtles, coral, fish — and a rare surprise: As I gear up with the snorkeling kit provided by Teralani, a Hawaiian monk seal — Hawai‘i’s

KYLE ELLISON

“Dad! Dad! I can’t believe this! I seriously feel like I’m dreaming!” The six-year-old boy spoke for us all as a pod of Hawaiian spinner dolphins frolicked directly in front of our catamaran, cruising through the water like sleek, gray torpedoes, spinning, flipping and splashing down into the sapphire sea. The group numbers 20, then 30, then 40 — until it’s beautifully apparent that 100 or more dolphins have surrounded our boat. So far, turtles, whales, flying fish and now dolphins have joined our sail — and we haven’t even finished our breakfast burritos. It is going to be an epic day with Teralani Sailing Adventures. A Kā‘anapali staple for more than 25 years, Teralani Sailing Adventures operates a fleet of luxurious catamarans. They offer year-round sailing and snorkeling fun right off Kā‘anapali Beach and are easily located within walking distance of most Kā‘anapali resort hotels. They recently added two brand new boats to their flotilla, including our current vessel, the Ter-

Fall 2021–Winter 2022 27


highly endangered state mammal — periscopes up in front of the boat, and then dives back under the water. Rather than climbing down the ladder, I opt for the “express lane,” and simply jump off the back of the boat in pursuit of the seal. There are more critters flitting across the reef than I’ve seen in years. I’m greeted by a school of weke (goatfish) hanging out under the hull, and when submerged, I can hear the high-pitched songs of the humpback whales in the distance. Nūnū (trumpetfish) cruise the shallows, and a lone honu (Hawaiian green sea turtle) inhabits a nook between coral heads. I see a massive school of akule (bigeye scad) about 10 feet under the surface, coming toward me. I take a deep breath, dive down and am engulfed by the shiny, silver swarm. After the akule pass through, I mingle with

manini (convict tang) and watch uku (gray snapper) prowl for lunch. My own stomach growls in accordance, so I swim back to the boat in search of sustenance. I reboard the Teralani 5 and find that the crew has fired up the grill. I plate up some food, grab a seat at one of the tables and gaze out at the view — one which is unmatched, even at the island’s best restaurants. My lunch — a freshly grilled burger, chips and a cold drink — hits just the right spot. Slack-key music chimes over the speakers, and just when I think things could never be better, the monk seal reappears some 20 feet off our stern. It peeks out and glances around, like a toddler playing hide and seek. I quickly abandon my burger, gear back up and dive in. I search for about 15 minutes, but the seal is

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BLAIR BIGHAM ISLAND DREAM PRODUCTIONS

Above: Raccoon butterflyfish parade across a reef within a few flipper kicks of the boat. Below: Rare sightings, such as this endangered monk seal, are possible on any given day; we are only temporary visitors in this underwater world.

JUST AS I START TO LOSE HOPE, I SNORKEL OVER A CLEFT IN THE REEF AND THERE’S THE SEAL, STARING ME RIGHT IN THE FACE.


nowhere to be seen. Just as I start to lose hope, I snorkel over a cleft in the reef and there it is, staring me right in the face. Inquisitive and playful, it circles a few coral heads before charting its own solo course to the north — a fleeting visitor in a wide-open sea whom I am unlikely to meet again. Time seems suspended as I reboard boat — I am still processing the singular seal encounter — and I hand my gear to the ever-diligent Teralani crew. It’s time to return to shore, and they hoist up the ladder, cast off the bowlines and set a course downwind toward Kā‘anapali Beach. The Pailolo Channel stretches that between Maui and Moloka‘i offers

some of the Island’s most consistent winds. The crew hoists the mainsail and rolls out the jib to harness the breeze at our stern. Soon we are moving along at a clip of about 10 knots. We sip draft beers and freshly made cocktails and kick back as the waves clap rhythmically on the hull. As the tropical sun massages my shoulders, I reflect on the incredible day. Much in the same way, and with the same exuberance as that little boy expressed this morning, I want to exclaim, It seriously feels like I’m dreaming!q Teralani Sailing Adventures | 808.661.7245 | teralani.net | IG/FB @TeralaniSailing

BLAIR BIGHAM ISLAND DREAM PRODUCTIONS

Above: A beautiful honu (Hawaiian green sea turtle) surfaces for air before diving back down to rest in an undersea cave. Below: Hawaiian spinner dolphins are a common sight when you’re cruising the Kā‘anapali coastline.

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A REIMAGINED RESORT Kā‘anapali Beach Resort is better than ever! Here’s what’s new, what’s revamped and what’s in store for our guests. Story by Sarah Ruppenthal

THE HYATT REGENCY MAUI RESORT & SPA After two years and millions of dollars, The Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa sports a fresh new look, including a remodel of its atrium lobby and completely revamped guest rooms in all three of its towers. “Guest feedback has been tremendous,” says digital marketing manager Krystle Alcain. To maximize space, designers from luxury firm Wimberly Interiors crafted clever under-the-bed storage for luggage, increased closet size and enclosed the balconies in glass to usher in more natural light for unobstructed ocean and mountain views. The decor is chic and comfortable, punctuated by authentic Hawaiian accents. And upgrades include double sinks; water-saving, high-efficiency showerheads, toilets and faucets; flatscreen TVs; iHome clock radios with Blue30 Kā‘anapali Magazine


Opposite, from top: Room renovations at The Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa feature comfortable decor, authentic Hawaiian accents and natural materials and colors that harmonize the space with its surroundings. The atrium makes a lasting impression with new stone flooring and planter beds showcasing native Hawaiian species. Above: The lobby is a grand, luxurious space, with impressive details such as this starburst light fixture.

tooth technology, and energy-saving thermostats with occupancy sensors. The atrium lobby also underwent a dramatic transformation. Lofty and light-filled, the open-air space reaches for the clouds, grounded only by beautiful new stone flooring. The resort’s resident parrots and cockatoos inhabit custom-built architectural nooks, and planter beds showcase native Hawaiian species such as dryland kalo (taro) and kupu kupu ferns. The Hyatt plans to further expand its guest experiences in the months to come. In addition to popular activities like the Drums of the Pacific

Lū‘au, Hawaiian cultural lessons, the mermaid experience and a rooftop astronomy program, the resort will offer garden tours and interactive chef experiences, giving foodies and green-thumbed guests an opportunity to discover what’s growing on property, and to see how those herbs, fruits and edible flowers are incorporated into the resort’s menus and in Native Hawaiian culture. The Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr. | 808.661.1234 | hyatt.com/maui | IG/FB @HyattMaui Fall 2021–Winter 2022 31


Room upgrades at Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel include new LED lighting and state-of-the-art technology such as smart TVs and enhanced WiFi. The makamae (precious gifts) displayed in the shadow boxes were handmade by the hotel’s cultural team.

KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH HOTEL Even though Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel sports a fresh new look, it remains true to its cultural roots, and can still proudly be called “Hawai‘i’s Most Hawaiian Hotel.” KBH recently completed the Kealaula enhancement project, its first signficant renovation since 2008. Guided by input from both guests and employees, the 75-million-dollar renaissance includes fully redesigned rooms, a new oceanfront restaurant and another floor added to the parking garage for improved capacity. Arguably, the highlight of the project is the revamped Papaku and Kauhale wings (formerly the Kaua‘i and Lāna‘i wings, respectively). All rooms have been outfitted with enhanced lighting, upgraded WiFi, smart TVs and other technological improvements. And the brand-new decor features distinctive cultural accents, including shadow boxes displaying makamae (precious gifts) such as lūhe‘e (octopus lures), pahi kaua (swords),‘ulī‘ulī (gourd rattles),‘upena (fishing nets) and leiomano (shark-tooth weapons). 32 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Alika Guerrero, director of Po‘okela, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel’s longrunning cultural awareness program, oversaw the Kealaula project from start to finish. Guerrero and the hotel’s cultural team handmade the makamae for each room and were actively involved in the interior design process, helping choose carpet patterns, wall colors and textures, bedding, furniture and more. In fact, the entire renovation was a group effort: Employees helped shape the look of the guest rooms and had a hand in the layout, flow and menu of Huihui, the new 5,000-square-foot, open-air restaurant serving Hawaiian cuisine. The restaurant’s decor pays homage to Polynesian wayfinding with a video wall display and nautical elements. “The Kealaula project was born out of our valued guest comments to enhance the property,” says John White, director of sales and marketing. “Our award-winning staff looks forward to welcoming guests back to their Hawaiian home away from home.” Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. | 808.661.0011 | KBHMaui.com | FB/IG @KaanapaliBeachHotel


Clockwise from top left: Lūhe‘e (octopus lures) and ‘upena (fishing nets) are just a few of the makamae crafted specially for each room. Every guest receives a kukui-nut lei at the farewell ceremony. Returning guests who bring their lei with them receive a special white nut to commemorate the visit. Left: The design and decor of Huihui, the hotel’s new restaurant, pay homage to Polynesian wayfinding, such as these window details which are reminiscent of Hawaiian voyaging canoe sails.

Fall 2021–Winter 2022 33


THE SHERATON MAUI RESORT & SPA Built in 1963, The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa is one of the oldest resort hotels on Maui. In July 2018, the 23-acre oceanfront resort completed a renovation of its 508 guest rooms and suites, and in 2019 focused on transforming the main lobby. All updates are now finished, and it was worth the wait. “The overarching goal was to reimagine the space and enhance its functionality while also maintaining our tradition of bringing together friends and family [to create] lifelong memories,” says Katelyn Mayer, director of public relations, when asked about the Sheraton’s new lobby. Architectural firm AHL took the generous 4,223-square-foot space and created a lively central hub with multiple areas to socialize and relax. Some outstanding improvements include a new reception area, 34 Kā‘anapali Magazine

a lounge with comfy seating, a sprawling open-air lānai and inviting rocking chairs perched on a deck overlooking Kā‘anapali Beach. Textural accents of stone and wood meld with the coastal color palette, harmonizing the space with the exterior environment. A family game room is the highlight of the lower level, and guests can watch movies, play Foosball or have a shuffleboard showdown. Perhaps the most notable addition is The Sandbar, Kā‘anapali’s only lobby bar, where guests can indulge in island-style cocktails and nibble on pūpū (appetizers) such as filet steak sliders or i‘a ekolu (fish three ways). Early birds can stop by The Sandbar in the morning for specialty coffees, house-made pastries and grab-and-go breakfast bites. The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. | 808.661.0031 | SheratonMaui.com | IG/FB @SheratonMaui


Opposite: Renovations transformed the lobby at The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa into a lively, functional space with multiple areas to relax, refresh and recharge. Above: Families will love the new game room, located on the lower level. Right: After checking in, head to the The Sandbar to drink in the island spirit. Bottom: Lava rock peeks out from behind Hawaiian-inspired woodwork that decorates a wall in the reception area.

Fall 2021–Winter 2022 35


THE WESTIN MAUI RESORT & SPA Following a $120-million, two-year transformation, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa reemerged from its construction cocoon with some serious sparkle, including a redesigned luxury tower, new dining venues, pool upgrades, a remodeled spa and new guest experiences. The undisputed crown jewel of the renovation is the 217-room Hōkūpa‘a tower, formerly known as the Beach Tower. These luxury guest rooms, suites and common areas deliver an elevated guest experience, and everything about the design conveys nature, wellness, and Hawaiian culture and tradition. All rooms offer a jawdropping view, and a dedicated on-site team tends to the needs of Hōkūpa‘a guests both prior to and during their visit. Those staying in this posh tower also enjoy priority booking for hotelwide amenities, and have exclusive access to The Lānai at Hōkūpa‘a, an open-air lounge located on the second level, with a private bar and infinity-edge cocktail pools. The Lānai also offers breakfast, chef demonstrations, mixology tastings and cultural experiences like mo‘olelo (storytelling) sessions, ulana niu (coconut weaving) and 36 Kā‘anapali Magazine


Opposite, from top: A dramatic waterfall cascades into the redesigned lobby lagoon. A remodel of the 87,000-square-foot pool “playground” includes expanded seating areas, dark wood cabanas and two family pools linked by swim-through waterfalls. Above and right: Guests staying in the the Hōkūpa‘a tower have exclusive access to The Lānai, which features a private bar, craft mixology tastings and infinity-edge cocktail pools. Bottom: A corridor lined with live plants and dramatic ceiling art leads the way to the lagoon.

Fall 2021–Winter 2022 37


Top: The decor and color palette of The Westin Maui’s new guest rooms and suites reprises the colors of the ocean just beyond. Bottom: Uplevel your bathing experience with a soak in this sleek, free-standing tub overlooking Kā‘anapali Beach.

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lei po‘o (crown of flowers) lessons. The on-property dining venues also underwent a transformation. Chef Chris Kajioka, a finalist for the James Beard Foundation Award for best chef, helms the hotel’s new signature restaurant, waicoco. The eatery has three distinct areas: the Deck, an al fresco space overlooking Kā‘anapali Beach; the Dining Room, located indoors; and waicoco-To-Go, offering casual fare on the fly. There are also three more dining hot spots: Hale Mo‘olelo, (House of Myths), an outdoor restaurant and bar; Mahele (portion) Market, a grab-and-go eatery; and Hale ‘Ā (House of Sparkle), a poolside bar. The newly remodeled Heavenly Spa offers specialty treatments based on Hawaiian health and beauty practices, and to round things out, the hotel expanded its guest programs to include an outrigger canoe paddling program, star navigation classes, and “Chase the Sunset” at Hale Mo‘olelo, a ceremonial torch lighting and blowing of the pū (conch shell) at dusk. q The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. | 808.667.2525 | HokupaaMaui.com | Marriott.com | FB/IG @TheWestinMaui


(1) (2) MĀLAMA MAUI

Kā‘anapali Beach Resort has long been committed to sustainability. Here are a few of the ongoing efforts implemented to keep things clean and green, and protect the ‘āina (land).

(3)

Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel recently expanded on its existing sustainability efforts as part of its renovation. The hotel installed energy-efficient heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems, and tankless water heaters. All guest rooms were outfitted with sensors that turn off the AC when lānai doors are opened, and photovoltaic panels were added on top of the newly built parking garage, helping reduce carbon emissions by 15 percent. The hotel also installed bottle-filling water stations (1), placed divided receptacles for trash and recyclables in all the rooms, discontinued the use of Styrofoam containers and plastic straws, replaced inefficient lightbulbs with LED bulbs, and planted onsite gardens. In 2018, The Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa set out to become a zerowaste resort with the goal of diverting all its trash from the landfill, and so far, the initiative has been a success: During renovations, The Hyatt donated more than 1,700 tons of furniture, artwork, mattresses and other items to local charities and businesses; recycled more than 750 tons of metal; and refurbished (rather than discarded) 351 cast-iron tubs. The hotel added recycling bins to all its guest rooms and continues to support its green cleaning policy and gray-water irrigation system. Because Maui does not have a commercial composting facility, The Hyatt implemented an upcycling program where local farmers pick up food waste and use it for feed and compost. And the 2,138-panel photovoltaic system on the roof produces about 11 percent of the property’s electricity, saving more than 1,000 kilowatt hours annually (2).

(4) In 2016, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa took home Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s ‘Aipono Award for Excellence in Sustainability for its culture of mālama ka ‘āina i ke kai (care for the land and ocean). The hotel continues to support targeted environmental and social-responsibility efforts, including minimization of waste and a sustainable menu that sources locally grown, organic products. The Westin Maui’s Waterman program gives guests an opportunity to learn about, and actively care for, Maui’s natural environment through fun and meaningful activities (3). And in 2020, the resort teamed up with Carbon Lighthouse to analyze and optimize its energy efficiency, reduce electricity costs and eliminate carbon emissions due to wasted energy. In 2017, The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa became the first resort in Hawai‘i to trade plastic straws for a marine-friendly paper alternative. It recently implemented a hotelwide recycling program and replaced plastic cups with biodegradable corn-based vessels for poolside beverages. As part of the recent renovation, The Sheraton installed electric-vehicle charging stations, LED lighting and motion-sensing air-conditioning units in guest rooms that turn off when the rooms are unoccupied. An on-site weather station monitors rainfall, wind speed and other conditions so property irrigation can be adjusted accordingly, and in an effort to protect Hawai‘i’s fragile coral reefs, The Sheraton installed reef-safe sunscreen dispensers throughout the resort in partnership with Raw Elements USA (4).

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HAWAI‘I’S SPIRIT GUARDIANS

For all the magical powers ‘aumākua are said to possess, the greatest may be their ability to connect human beings and the natural world. Story by Rita Goldman

“Pueo is one of my ‘aumākua,” Keli‘i Tau‘a once said, claiming the Hawaiian short-eared owl as one of his family’s guardian spirits. Tau‘a taught Hawaiian language and history within the department of education, and mentored so many cultural leaders that he’s known simply as Kumu — Teacher. So when he shared a story that had been in his family for generations, it was wise to keep an open mind. “When my son was in his mother’s womb, the owl started coming to our house in Ha‘ikū and sitting on the fence or the electrical wires,” he said. “Never before did that happen. When we brought my son home from the hospital, all along the path to our house were owls galore. “My great-great-grandfather was getting violent, so my great-greatgrandmother ran out of the house to escape,” Tau‘a continued. “As she ran, she called on the pueo to blind her husband. She heard hoofbeats catching up to her. Her only escape was to jump into a puka [hole] on the side of the path. When she jumped, an owl hovered over her and shielded her, so Greatgreat-grandpa couldn’t see her as he rode by.” ‘Aumākua abound in Hawaiian legends, and in stories local families have handed down through the years. These guardian spirits display miraculous powers, appearing in dreams to give warning or advice; assuming in waking life the shape of an animal, a plant, or an elemental form such as a cloud or an ocean wave. Perhaps because of their fearsome nature, sharks are a frequent subject of these tales. Until recent times, a female shark named Ka‘ahupahau was said to live

40 Kā‘anapali Magazine

near the entrance to Pearl Harbor with her brother, Kahi‘uka, “the Smiting Tail.” People of the region brought them food and scraped barnacles from their backs. In exchange, the two ‘aumākua kept Pearl Harbor free of maneating sharks; sometimes Ka‘ahupahau would do so by transforming herself into a net that was nearly impossible to tear. Ka‘ahupahau resided at Pearl Harbor until the U.S. Navy built a dry dock over her home. In her collected Folktales of Hawai‘i, Mary Kawena Pukui recounts: “Scarcely was it completed when, after years of labor, the structure fell with a crash. Today, a floating dock is employed. Engineers say that there seem to be tremors of the earth at this point, which prevent any structure from resting upon the bottom, but Hawaiians believe that the Smiting Tail still guards the blue lagoon at Pearl Harbor.” Among Island residents, and even within the Hawaiian community, not everyone agrees on what an ‘aumakua is, what its role may be, or who is entitled to claim one. “Many Hawaiians have a broad view of the culture,” says Hōkūlani Holt, an expert in Hawaiian language and culture, a master kumu hula (hula teacher), former director of cultural programs at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center and current director of University of Hawai‘i Maui College’s Ka Hina O Ka Lā, a program funded by the National Science Foundation and serving Native Hawaiian students. “One may tell you, You’re a good friend of our ‘ohana (family), so you can have our ‘aumakua. Another may say, If the same turtle comes to you every time you go out snorkeling, that’s your ‘aumakua. As a traditionalist, I would disagree: You can have a ‘guide,’ a

EDWARD BALDWIN

Photography by Edward Baldwin, Cesere Brothers and Alan Schmierer


Opposite: Pueo (owl)

CESERE BROTHERS

This page: Honu (Hawaiian green sea turtle)

Fall 2021–Winter 2022 41


42 Kā‘anapali Magazine

come from the beginning of time have more ‘seniority’ than those created in the 1700s. Part of that is because they have more descendants who honor them and come to them for assistance. Their influence has been reinforced over hundreds of years. Let’s say your grandpa lives to be 92 and is still sharp as a pin. If he has offered advice, taught three generations how to do the family skill, he’s gained a great deal of respect because of that. It’s the same process for the ‘aumākua that come from old times.” In traditional Hawaiian culture, an individual’s relationship with his or her ‘aumakua began at birth and lasted a lifetime — and beyond. Within 24 hours of the birth of a first child, the family would hold a feast dedicating the infant to the ‘aumakua. More religious than celebratory, the feast was meant to set the child’s feet on the path of his elders, and blessed not only the firstborn, but all the subsequent children of that mother. A similar feast attended the completion of an individual’s first skillfully crafted work: a first weapon, a first fishnet, a first hula. Consecrated to the ‘aumakua, that “firstmade work” was never given away. ‘Aumākua sometimes exhibited all-too-human flaws. They could be jealous of the living, offended if their guidance was ignored and waged revenge by causing illness and even death. For the most part, the observances they demanded were designed to preserve harmony within the family. When an individual committed a serious wrong against a relative, he was ostracized by the family until he made amends by offering the gift of

CESERE BROTHERS

guardian angel … but not an ‘aumakua. That word is defined [genealogically] in the culture. “‘Aumākua are family members who have died and been deified, returning in a different form,” Holt continues. “‘Deified’ is the operative part; it was done by a kahuna [priest]. The gods indicated who should be deified. The kahuna interpreted and relayed that information to the family and performed the ceremony. Most of what we think of as ‘aumākua are from much earlier times, but when the traditional religion was overthrown [in 1819], the practices relating to ‘aumākua went with it. Everyone had at least one ‘aumakua. If you married and had children, their [ancestors] on both sides would come into the genealogy. They’re family; they stay with the family for generations.” Often, the form an ‘aumakua would take depended on where family members lived and how they earned their livelihood. “If you were ocean people, it would be good to have a shark as an ‘aumakua,” says Holt. “If you were mountain people, pueo, ‘io [Hawaiian hawk] … birds would be helpful. If you were Pele people, the form your ‘aumakua took might be related to lava. The form was a way of placing you within the family, within society and within nature. “As in all things Hawaiian, there was an hierarchy in the ‘aumakua realm,” she continues. “Some of the highest are those ‘aumākua that come from the very far past and are probably related to the ali‘i [royalty]. ‘Aumākua that


ALAN SCHMIERER

Opposite: Baby white tip shark This page: I‘o (Hawaiian hawk)

a pig and asking forgiveness of both the injured party and the ‘aumakua. If the relative refused to pardon the wrongdoer, he risked having the family’s ancestral guardians huli kua, (turn their backs) on him for being unforgiving. Enlisting the aid of one’s spiritual patriarchs and matriarchs was an eminently practical survival strategy for people living on such remote and isolated islands, where family — immediate and extended — was both the basic communal structure and the principal source of support. Times have changed. “Many Hawaiian families have stories that tell them what kind of ‘aumakua they have, what form it takes,” says Holt. “But the actual name of it and where it’s from has been lost. I often say if you are out on your surfboard and see a shark barreling toward you, and you have knowledge that the shark is your ‘aumakua, how do you know that that shark is your ‘aumakua? In the past, families would know because they would see the transformation: the kahuna would identify the gray shark with the white tip that lives at Kohala as their ‘aumakua. They’d keep track. In this day and age, that doesn’t continue. “When our kūpuna [elders] died, many of them made a conscious choice to take that information to the grave; they had become Christianized,” she continues. “To this very day, many of our kūpuna will not talk about ‘aumākua, even if their grandchildren want to know. They’ve been taught since 1830 that it was evil.”

Severing the connection with one’s ‘aumakua has profound implications not just for one’s own life, but for all the generations to follow. “It’s a great loss to the family,” Holt acknowledges. “The grandchildren may want to know their ‘aumakua, but they can’t.” Without those practices, they risk losing the connections and places of the past. As the living lose their knowledge of the ancestors, the ancestors lose their knowledge of the living. “Let us say you visit Grandpa often,” says Holt. “He knows your voice. He remembers your face. He will answer quickly. If he hasn’t seen you in 50 years, he may not so readily recognize your face or answer your call.” In traditional culture, the ultimate connection with one’s ancestors came at death, when the ‘aumakua met the spirit of the departed and led it safely over the leina (leaping place) into the spirit realm. Those whose ties to a caring ‘aumakua had been broken, who had no one to guide them into the spirit realm, literally became lost souls. That metaphorical disconnection must resonate with contemporary Hawaiians who have spent a generation working to reclaim their culture. If ‘aumākua can be restored to the role they once played in the life of the individual, the family and the community, the healing that follows will be nothing short of magical. Much of the information in this article was gleaned from The Polynesian Family System in Ka‘ū, Hawai‘i, by E. S. Craighill Handy and Mary Kawena Pukui. Fall 2021–Winter 2022 43


Brunch by the Sea Experience food, friends and fun at waicoco, The Westin Maui’s newest dining venue.

A cool ocean breeze wafts through the outdoor dining lounge at waicoco, Kā‘anapali’s newest foodie destination. As our group of four traverses the patio, we pass a tray of beautifully plated food; it smells of butter, cinnamon and bacon. The Pacific is literally a stone’s throw away, and Lāna‘i looks closer than those nine current-filled miles across the channel. Opting for air-conditioning, we choose a table indoors rather than on the deck. The crisp, modern decor of the restaurant is softened by the gentle, wavelike curves of the ceiling beams, and the chairbacks remind me of honu (turtles). From our table, we watch servers in T-shirts and khaki shorts hurry about while Michelin-star chef Mourad Lahlou (of San Francisco’s Mourad and Aziza) expedites the food. “Order!” he calls out. 44 Kā‘anapali Magazine

“Oui, Chef!” respond the kitchen staff. Justin Eddy, general manager of waicoco and former GM at Thomas Keller’s AD Hoc in Yountville, California, stops by our table. “So glad to have you all here,” he says. “I just wanted to say hello and let you know that I’ll be sending out a few bakery items for you to enjoy.” Rumor has it that James Beard Award-winning chef Pichet Ong has been hired to create the pastries and desserts for waicoco. Ong served as pastry chef for New York’s Jean-George Vongerichten, and appeared on shows such as Martha Stewart Live and the Food Network’s Sugar Dome. I am excited to try his creations. In short order, our server delivers the goods: the “croissant of the day,” a perfectly flaky pastry filled with dark chocolate; tender banana oatmeal muffins; and savory, warm cheddar and chive biscuits. Sweet, salty and fruity —

COURTESY OF THE WESTIN MAUI RESORT & SPA

Story by Becky Speere


This page: Chef Pichet Ong plates eggs Benedict with a side of fresh island greens. Opposite: Views across the channel are guaranteed from the outdoor lounge.

Fall 2021–Winter 2022 45


Clockwise from top left: Brioche French toast topped with crispy oats, macadamia nuts and caramelized bananas. The indoor lounge seating is comfy and chic. Perfectly made eggs Benedict topped with brown-butter hollandaise and served with island-grown mesclun greens.

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BOTTOM: BECKY SPEERE

Top, clockwise from left: The fluffy lemon pancakes are a crowd favorite. Chef Lalou holds up the catch of the day — ōpakapaka (pink snapper). A perfect pair: volcano-spiced fries and chef Kajioka’s signature poke bowl. Above: Among waicoco’s baked goods assortment are a cheddar and chive biscuit, a banana oatmeal muffin and a chocolate croissant served with local honey butter and seasonal fruit jam.

it’s a tantalizing meld of flavors. Next, we ooh and ahh as our entrees arrive. I take a bite of my order — avocado and volcano-spiced fried potatoes — and the perfectly seasoned morsel crumbles in my mouth. My friend JoRene shares her dish with the table: two large, lemon pancakes with whipped citrus-maple butter. It tastes as delightful as it looks and we all vow to order these tender cakes on our next visit. My husband, Chris, digs into his shakshuka. Shakshuka means “mixture,” and this dish smells wonderfully of fennel, onions and roasted tomatoes, with overtones of cumin, coriander and cardamom. Goat cheese, eggs and mixed local greens from Hua Momona Farms top his entree, and on the side — grilled sourdough bread for sopping up the juices. Chris washes down his last bite with a spicy virgin Bloody Mary, leaving not a drop behind on his plate. Brioche French toast prepared bananas Foster-style with caramelized sugar, locally sourced bananas and creamy custard, arrives for our friend Maria. “This is so good! I’ll be back soon with my other friends!” she says. We all manage to steal a bite of her breakfast and agree with her proclamation. The restaurant is at capacity as we bid adieu to chef Lalou, his team of cooks, and Justin Eddy. “Chris Kajioka [award-winning chef and partner at waicoco] and chef Mourad are finishing up the lunch and dinner menus, and they look amazing,” says Eddy. As for us, we will definitely return for any and all meals this restaurant has to offer. My advice: order the volcano-spiced potatoes — they are beyond epic!  waicoco, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. | 808.446.3020 | waicocomaui.com | IG/FB @waicoco.maui

Fall 2021–Winter 2022 47


Enjoy panoramic ocean views while relaxing on rocking chairs and sipping a signature cocktail from The Sandbar, such as The Sandbar Mai Tai and Sandy Bottom, shown here.

The newest hot spot in Kā‘anapali offers incredible food, drinks — and views. The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa in Kā‘anapali underwent a major renovation that took years to complete. The Sandbar, located in its completely redone lobby, promised an artfully revamped menu and a bevy of specialty cocktails. Everyone buzzed about this soon-to-be hot spot with the expansive views overlooking the beach. Then … the pandemic happened. A year later, The Sandbar is finally open — and it was worth the wait. My husband Chris and I sit on cushy barstools facing the ocean. To the left, Lāna‘i seems to float, suspended in the sea-spray haze that veils the shoreline’s edge. To the right is Pu‘u Keka‘a, the black, rocky outcropping where the Sherton’s professional cliff divers leap into the cool water below. I sip a Kōhana rum mai tai with macadamia nut syrup served in a classic tiki glass. It packs a solid punch — and not the fruity kind — so I drink it slowly, savoring the chocolate-dipped Maui Gold pineapple garnish. Chris enjoys a Suspended Sand — The Sandbar’s take on a Cosmopolitan — made with the

48 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Story by Becky Speere

resort’s own Maker’s Mark Private Select bourbon. Even though entrees such as the huli huli (rotisserie) chicken, spicy tuna cones, teriyaki beef skewers and buffalo cauliflower bites sound seductively delish, we decide to sample the pūpū (appetizers) in lieu of dinner. We choose a trio of fresh fish crudo marinated with Hawaiian, Peruvian and French-Tahitian flavors; a basket of crunchy sweet potato and taro chips; a light flatbread pizza topped with a rainbow of onions, sweet peppers and mozzarella; a deep-fried California ‘ahi roll made with mochiko (sweet rice flour); and beef tenderloin sliders on caramelized onion rolls with garlicParmesan fries and a side of buttermilk goat cheese dressing for dipping. Every bite is a heavenly fusion of flavors, textures and tastes. At dusk, the cliff divers perform their final dizzying leap to the delight of the audience, and we indulge in an espresso-caramel gelato and a dragonfruit sorbet wine float. The sun disappears below the horizon, but a flickering torch remains atop Pu‘u Keka‘a, as if holding the flame of our star until it recaims ownership at dawn. The Sandbar, The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. | 808.661.0031 | sandbarmaui.com | IG @sandbarmaui

COURTESY OF THE SHERATON MAUI RESORT & SPA

The Sandbar


The fresh design of The Sandbar blends soothing coastal shades with textural wooden accents to create a calm, inviting space. A painted fish print in hues of blue and gray blankets the back wall of the bar.

A selection of The Sandbar’s handcrafted cocktails, from left to right: Stormy Season, made with coconut liqueur, pineapple, Maui Brewing Co. Ginger Beer and mint; Swirling Turbulence, made with prosecco, Valley Isle Kombucha, mango bursting pearls and mango puree; Suspended Sand, made with The Sheraton Maui’s signature Maker’s Mark Private Select Bourbon, rhubarb bitters, orange zest and a cherry; and Rip Current, made with Tanteo jalapeño tequila, cointreau, strawberry and papaya puree, lime and a sea-salt rim.

Fall 2021–Winter 2022 49


Dining Guide RR Reservations recommended Average entree: $ under $15 $$ under $25 $$$ under $40 $$$$ $40+ The ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards celebrate the finest dining spots on Maui, as voted by the readers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine.

BEACH WALK KAU KAU TO GO Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 667-1200 The perfect place for breakfast and lunchtime sandwiches, cold drinks, snacks and salad entrees. Featuring pizza cucina (gluten-free options available) and local dishes. Grab ‘n’ Go. $$ CASTAWAY CAFÉ Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas, 661-9091 This beachfront restaurant serves casual fare with a local twist, and offers an award-winning wine list and unparalleled ocean views. American. $$ CHINA BOWL ASIAN CUISINE Fairway Shops, 661-0660 Cantonese, Mandarin and Szechwan dishes, plus local favorites like saimin and kau yuk. Dine-in, takeout and delivery available. Winner of Gecko Publishing’s Maui Choice Award for best Chinese cuisine. Kid-friendly. Chinese. $ CHOICE Whalers Village, 6670585 ‘Aipono Award winner for Best Healthy Fare (Gold, 2018, 2020; Silver 2019) Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls made with fresh, local ingredients. Daily specials and an epic entree with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red pepper-sesame sauce. American. $

50 Kā‘anapali Magazine

CJ’S DELI & DINER Fairway Shops, 667-0968 Specializing in affordable comfort food, CJ’s huge billboard menu features homemade meatloaf, deli sandwiches and burgers alongside local favorites like loco moco, mochikochicken plate lunch, coconut prawns, and mahimahi with lemon-caper sauce. Kid-friendly. American. $ CLIFF DIVE GRILL Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 661-0031 Cozy up to the bar and enjoy chicken wings, burgers, sandwiches and tacos. An enticing dinner menu includes a huli huli chicken appetizer and an 8-ounce grilled ribeye steak. Sunset entertainment features a torchlighting ceremony followed by a cliff diver’s leap from Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock). American. $$ DA NANI PIRATES Whalers Village Tacos, fish and casual dining. Food truck. American. $-$$ DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC LŪ‘AU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 667-4727 ‘Aipono Award winner for Best Lū‘au (Silver, 2017–2020) Immerse yourself in an evening of Polynesian culture. Enjoy authentic song and dance (including a threeman Samoan fire-knife dance), an all-you-can-eat buffet of island specialties, Polynesian arts and

crafts, hula lessons and an islandwear fashion show. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. RR. $$$$ FOOD COURT Whalers Village Refresh and recharge at this fast-food emporium featuring Joey’s Kitchen, Nikki’s Pizza, Ohana Tacos and Subway. Kid-friendly. Eclectic. $ HÄAGEN-DAZS ICE CREAM SHOP Whalers Village, 667-5377 Indulge in irresistible ice cream, sorbet, a warm brownie sundae à la mode, or the signature Dazzler frozen dessert. Kid-friendly. Treats. $ HALE MO‘OLELO Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525 Hale is the Hawaiian word for house; mo‘olelo means story. Put them together and you have The Westin Maui’s premier open-air gathering spot. This venue offers a stunning view of the ocean and is located beside the keiki (children’s) pool. Experience authentic Maui vibes, share laughs and enjoy great food. American. $-$$ HANK’S HAUTE DOGS Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 661-0031 Man bites dog! This oceanside takeaway venue offers gourmet hot dogs, snacks and nonalcoholic refreshments. American. $

HONOLULU COFFEE Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 661-1234 ‘Aipono Award winner for Best Coffee Shop (Silver, 2019) Jump-start your day with a selection of coffees, fresh-baked pastries, tropical-fruit smoothies and açai bowls. Coffee Shop. $ HUIHUI Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 661-0011 Huihui means to mix and mingle, and this new eatery at Maui’s “Most Hawaiian Hotel” fits the bill. The oceanfront restaurant offers indoor and outdoor seating, and serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional/American. $-$$ HULA GRILL Whalers Village, 667-6636 ‘Aipono Award winner for Best Shorts & Slippers Dining (Gold 2017; Silver, 2018) Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy live entertainment and casual fare. The open-air dining room offers unobstructed views, and serves dishes such as firegrilled ‘ahi steak. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. $$–$$$ ISLAND PRESS COFFEE Fairway Shops, 667-2003 Maui-grown coffee, breakfast, sandwiches, beer, wine and ice cream. Mauimade kombucha. Indoor/outdoor seating and free Wi-Fi. Coffee Shop. $


Japengo

ISLAND VINTAGE COFFEE Whalers Village, 868-4081 Perk up with a cup of coffee, or fill up with a hearty selection of açai bowls, sandwiches and salads. Coffee Shop. $ JAPENGO Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 667-4727 ‘Aipono Award winner for Restaurant of the Year (Gold, 2019), Best Pacific Rim Cuisine (Gold, 2017, 2020), Best Sushi (Gold, 2019; Silver, 2017-18, 2020) Best Asian Cuisine (Gold, 2017; Silver, 2018-19) World-class steak, seafood and creative cocktails combine Pacific Rim flavor with local ingredients. Dine indoors, outdoors, or in the chic Sushi Lounge. Live music. Seasonal pairing dinners and special events. Sushi, Pacific Rim/Asian. RR. $$$ JOEY’S KITCHEN Whalers Village Food Court, 868-4474 ‘Aipono Award winner for Most “Maui-est” (Silver, 2020) Food-court fare gets a gourmet upgrade with dishes like braised short-rib pho atop housemade rice noodles, corn and sweet Filipino peppers in a rich gingerbeef broth. Asian Fusion. $ KĀ‘ANAPALI GRILLE & TAP ROOM Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 667-7733 From the people who brought you Cheeseburger in Paradise in Lahaina comes this

Huihui

Monkeypod Kitchen

venue serving burgers, sandwiches, pizza and salads. At dinner, enjoy steak, fresh fish and pasta. Thirty wines under $30 a bottle. American. $–$$

Joey’s kitchen fame, presents this elevated dining experience featuring Pacific Rim flavors worth exploring. Original cocktails and bar service available. Pacific Rim. $-$$

LAHAINA PROVISION COMPANY Hyatt Residence Club Maui, 6621000 Choose from fresh pastries, made-to-order sandwiches, salads and hot food, plus a fine selection of wine and fresh produce. Grab ‘n’ Go. $

MAHELE MARKET & EATERY Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 6672525 Hungry for island flavors and the freshest, locally sourced ingredients? You’ll find them in this modern take on a local mom-andpop shop. Scrumptious, baked grab-and-go options for the whole ‘ohana (family). Deli. Grab ‘n’ Go. $

LEGENDS OF KĀ‘ANAPALI LŪ‘AU Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 667-0128 Lei Pono Productions tells the story of Kā‘anapali through hula and narration, culminating in a fire walk. The call of the conch gathers guests for a shell-lei greeting and welcome cocktails, followed by a feast of island fare prepared by award-winning chefs. From May to September. Lū‘au. RR. $$$$ LEILANI’S ON THE BEACH Whalers Village, 661-4495 Enjoy the view from the Beachside Grill while snacking on coconut shrimp, calamari, sashimi, burgers and fish tacos. Or dine on fire-grilled daily catch, herb-roasted jidori chicken and prime rib. Kid-friendly. Steak/ Seafood. RR. $$–$$$ MACADANGDANG Fairway Shops Chef Joey Macadangdang, of

MAI TAI BAR Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 661-0031 This beachside location at the foot of Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock) offers poke bowls, sandwiches and salads from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Try a tropical cocktail, such as the Black Rock mai tai, made with a splash of aloha. American. $$ MAUI GRILL KAANAPALI, 2291 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., 667-6100 Catch your favorite sports event or enjoy late-night entertainment and drink specials. American. $–$$ MAUI NUI LŪ‘AU AT BLACK ROCK Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 877-HULA This oceanfront, all-you-can-eat buffet features traditional island foods, such as slow-roasted kalua pork unearthed

fresh from the imu (underground oven), cultural arts and crafts and Polynesian entertainment. Kidfriendly. Lū‘au. RR. $$$$ MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Whalers Village, 878-6763 ‘Aipono Award winner for Restaurant of the Year (Gold, 2017), Best Business Lunch and Best Handcrafted Cocktails (Gold, 2020), Best Happy Hour (Gold, 2017, 2019-20; Silver, 2018), Best Bar and Best Vibe (Gold, 2019), Most “Maui-est” and Best Poke (Silver, 2019) Locally sourced ingredients shine at this Peter Merriman venue that dishes up pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. The best-selling Monkeypod Mai Tai is topped with honey-liliko‘i (passionfruit) foam. Hawai‘i Regional. $$ THE MYTHS OF MAUI LŪ‘AU Royal Lahaina Resort, 201-5590 Indulge your senses at Maui’s longest-running oceanfront lū‘au. Feast on a traditional Hawaiianstyle buffet and enjoy the open bar while experiencing the tales of Hawai‘i, Tahiti and Samoa through music, song and dance. The evening culminates with a breathtaking fire dance. Kidfriendly. Lū‘au. RR. $$$$ NIKKI’S PIZZA Whalers Village Food Court, 667-0333 Fuel your day with a loaded pizza, hot Fall 2021–Winter 2022 51


Dining Guide RR Reservations recommended Average entrée: $ under $15 $$ under $25 $$$ under $40 $$$$ $40+

100% Extra Virgin Maui Olive Oil Unfiltered, cold pressed Grown & hand harvested on Haleakalā, Maui Artisanal processing Visit our Farmstand in Kula on Waipoli Road

www.MauiOlive.com Info@MauiOlive.com

WANT MORE MAUI DINING OPTIONS?

Visit MauiMagazine.net/Dining for ‘Aipono Readers Choice Award Winners and more

The ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards celebrate the finest dining spots on Maui, as voted by the readers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine.

meatball panini, pasta and gyros. Hearty breakfast served all day. Italian/Pizza/Deli. $–$$$ OHANA TACOS Whalers Village Food Court, 661-4567 Treat your ‘ohana (family) to burritos, bowls and tacos filled with carne asada, carnitas, al pastor, birria, chicken or fish. Salsa and guacamole made fresh daily. Mexican. $ ONO GELATO COMPANY Whalers Village, 868-2926 Open seven days a week, 365 days a year! Treats. $ PAU HUAKA‘I TIKI BAR Hyatt Residence Club Maui, 662-1000 Enjoy handcrafted cocktails, lemon-ginger kombucha on tap, and local beers — just steps away from the sand! Menu includes burgers, fish tacos, wraps and salads. Daily happy-hour specials. American. $ ROUND TABLE PIZZA Fairway Shops, 662-0777 Try local favorite Maui Zaui: ham, bacon, pineapple, Roma tomatoes, red and green onions and three cheeses atop Polynesian-style red sauce. Kid-friendly. American. $$ ROY’S KĀ‘ANAPALI Royal Kā‘anapali Golf Clubhouse, 6696999 ‘Aipono Award winner for Best Pacific Rim Cuisine (Silver, 2020) Celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi rocks vibrant local fish and produce with an Asian attention to detail.

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Blackened ‘ahi and macadamia nut-crusted mahimahi with lobster-butter sauce are menu standouts. Save room for the award-winning chocolate soufflé. Hawai‘i Regional. RR. $$$ ROYAL OCEAN TERRACE RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Royal Lahaina Resort, 661-9119 A traditional torch-lighting ceremony heralds the evening at this open-air casual restaurant with commanding views of the Pacific, Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i. Enjoy “broke da mouth” baked lobster mac ‘n’ cheese or a fresh ‘ahi poke bowl while enjoying hula dancers and Hawaiian music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. $$ ROYAL SCOOP Royal Lahaina Resort, 661-3611 Continental breakfast items, deli sandwiches, specialty coffees, frozen yogurt, and Maui’s own Roselani Ice Cream. Treats. $ THE SANDBAR Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa lobby, 661-0031 Offering breakfast in the morning and cocktails and pūpū (appetizers) in the afternoons and evenings. Sunsets are free! Hawai‘i Regional. $$ SON’Z STEAKHOUSE Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 6674506 ‘Aipono Award winner for Best Steak (Silver, 2018) Overlooking a hidden lagoon and waterfall,


Due to COVID-19, some venues may still be closed or have limited hours. Please call or visit their social-media sites before heading out.

Kā‘anapali’s premier steakhouse features the finest cuts, including filet mignon and prime New York strip. This fine-dining restaurant also serves fresh fish and lobster, and has an expansive wine list and a full bar. American. RR. $$$$ STARBUCKS Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 667-1200 Find all your favorite Starbucks offerings at this full-service store. Coffee Shop. $ STARBUCKS Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525 This second Kā‘anapali location is brand new — with the same great Starbucks offerings. Coffee Shop. $ SUNNY YOKE Fairway Shops Hot new all-day breakfast place — coming soon! SWAN COURT Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 661-1234 Start the day with a lavish breakfast buffet or à la carte selections of fresh, local flavors and traditional favorites as the resident swans glide by. American. $$ TEPPAN-YAKI DAN Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 921-4600 A skillful chef prepares steak, lobster, shrimp, scallops and fresh fish to perfection — right before your eyes. Japanese/Steak & Seafood. RR. $$$ TIKI BAR & GRILL Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 667-0163 Munch on appetizers, salad, pizza and sandwiches at this relaxed poolside venue. American. $ TIKI TERRACE RESTAURANT Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 667-0124 The perfect vantage point to watch the free nightly hula show. Fresh island seafood, juicy steaks and nightly specials. Grab a light snack or a coffee drink to go. Sunday brunch is legendary. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. $$

ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 661-1234 ‘Aipono Award winner for Best Shave Ice (Gold, 2015–2020) Ululani’s elevates this local treat to gourmet proportions with fun add-ons, premium Roselani ice cream and homemade tropical syrups. Treats. $ ‘ŪMALU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 661-1234 Hang poolside and snack on Angus beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a Mutiny on the Carthaginian cocktail while enjoying seasonal evening entertainment. American/ Pacific Rim. $$ WAICOCO Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 446-3020 Foodies rejoice! Award-winning chefs Chris Kajioka and Mourad Lalou create culinary memories at this venue serving breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. International. $-$$ WAILELE POLYNESIAN LŪ‘AU Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 661-2992 This award-winning Polynesian dinner show features an authentic Fijian chief as host; dances and songs from Hawai‘i, Fiji, Tahiti, New Zealand and Samoa; and a daring fire-knife dance finale. Hawaiian buffet and open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. RR. $$$$ WELOWELO Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel 661-0011 This poolside oasis serves family-friendly fare such as pizza, burgers and fresh fish, as well as locally inspired Hawaiian bowls, pua‘a kālua (steamed, shredded pork), kāmano lomi (salted salmon with onions and tomatoes and Asian slaw. Kid-friendly. International. $$

Toast your stay in paradise. Meet us at The Sandbar.

#pupuwithaview at Ka‘anapali’s only lobby bar. Sample craft cocktails and local bites infused with island flavors, and enjoy live entertainment, while taking in panoramic views of the Pacific and Ka‘anapali Beach from a wraparound lanai. Open daily: 4:30 - 9 PM for food, 4:30 - 10 PM for beverages Live entertainment nightly

Located at Sheraton Maui 2605 Ka‘anapali Parkway 808.661.0031 IG: @sandbarmaui

YOGURTLAND Whalers Village, 661-9834 Create your own frozen yogurt concoction from a myriad of flavors and toppings. Kid-friendly. Treats. $ Fall 2021–Winter 2022 53


Alana Spa offers a full menu of facials, body treatments, massages, waxing and more. Here, my aesthetician applies a coconut and goji berry mask as part of my RevitaFacial.

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Alana Spa is the hidden treasure of the Royal Lahaina Resort. I have stayed many places on Maui’s west side, but I had never been to the Royal Lahaina. So I am pleasantly surprised by the rolling hills, charming cottage clusters and easygoing atmosphere of the resort. I have no trouble finding a parking space in the large, free lot, and after leaving my car in the shade of an enormous monkeypod tree, I head to the courtyard to find Alana Spa. Spa manager Karen Parker greets me at the door. She is energetic and welcoming and shows me and photographer Ryan Siphers around the facility. First, we see the couple’s massage room where I will have my first treatment (albeit solo): the Alana Signature Massage. The room has sideby-side tables, intimate lighting and a lovely scent — eucalyptus with overtones of sandalwood. “We also offer massages outdoors in a private setting,” explains Parker. “Guests can enjoy the sound of the ocean and the gentle trade winds while protected from the sun with our Makai Outdoor Experience. There’s also a lovely lānai for relaxing afterward. We perform many of our couple’s massages in this location.”

Top: Spa manager Karen Parker is also a skilled aesthetician. Bottom: Alana Spa is located in the courtyard at the Royal Lahaina Resort.

The Royal Treatment Story by Lara McGlashan

Photography by Ryan Siphers

At the opposite end of the building are two well-stocked treatment rooms, one of which will be used for my facial. A line of small brown bottles marches across the countertop, tiny vessels that pack a powerful punch. “These certified organic essential oils from Nectar are unique aromatherapy blends with gemstone elixirs,” explains Parker. “The therapist will use the oil to enhance your massage.” Parker suggests I choose one for my treatment. I smell all the options and settle on “Energy,” a bright citrus scent infused with diamond gemstones (for joy), designed to refresh the body and mind. Just what the doctor ordered. Lead massage therapist Cambria Russell takes me into the couple’s massage room. We briefly discuss issues I am having with muscles and joints and decide where I might need extra attention. Russell exits, and I disrobe and lie facedown on the bed. The mellow lighting and heated massage table are a recipe for relaxation, and I sink into the bed with a sigh. Russell returns

Fall 2021–Winter 2022 55


Clockwise from top left: Many products used by aestheticians and massage therapists during a treatment at Alana Spa are available for purchase in the spa lobby. An ultrasound tool vaporizes debris, gently exfoliating my skin’s surface. This avocado facial oil by Osmosis Skincare absorbs easily and helps make my skin soft and supple. Parker uses the RevitaPen to help drive a nonacid peel into my skin. The couple’s massage room is perfect for side-by-side treatments.

with my specially crafted Energy massage oil and begins. Her pressure is firm, yet still relaxing, and after several minutes of working on me with her hands and forearms, Russell brings out some hot pōhaku (stones). The radiant heat from the pōhaku amplifies the scent of the oil, and Russell uses the stones to smooth away tension from my back and shoulders. An hour later, my muscles have been gently kneaded into submission, and I leave the massage room more upright and less uptight. Now it’s time for my RevitaFacial treatment. I meet Parker in a room down the hall and lie faceup on the table. “The goal of this facial is to initiate your skin’s natural rejuvenation response and increase the effectiveness of skincare products,” she explains. “You’ll notice a more luminous complexion, improved firmness and elasticity, increased hydration and softness, and a visible reduction in pore size and blemishes.”

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The conduit to this skin nirvana is the RevitaPen, a noninvasive, painless alternative to microneedling. The tool does, in fact, look like a fat pen, and is outfitted with a stainless-steel tip made of 100 circular “pyramids” that gently create microchannels in the skin, allowing for the treatment ingredients to permeate. “Alana Spa incorporates the most current devices to enhance our facial treatments, such as the RevitaPen, microcurrent, LED, radio frequency, oxygen and ultrasound for face and body,” says Parker. “I designed our protocols to be exclusive, and we are the only resort spa to offer such treatments.” After cleansing and exfoliating my skin with a fruit enzyme product, Parker applies an antiaging treatment and uses the RevitaPen to help it penetrate deep into my skin. The pen hums gently as she moves it across my face; it is indeed painless and feels rather like a light, fluttery breeze. Next, Parker applies a custom masque to

brighten the skin, followed by a hydration treatment, and finally an antioxidant-enhanced sunprotective product. She hands me a mirror and I am happily surprised: Many of the fine lines around my eyes have softened, and my whole face looks fresh and more youthful. “Receiving this RevitaFacial treatment on a monthly schedule leads to cumulative effects,” says Parker. “The more treatments you do, the better your skin looks and feels, due to the depth the micro-channeling device is able to penetrate and deliver the ingredients.” I leave happy, relaxed and refreshed. I will definitely be back for more pampering at Alana Spa — a small-but-mighty facility where the treatments deliver next-level results. Email the spa at Alana@hawaiianhotels.com to schedule your treatment. Alana Spa, Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Dr. | 808.661.3611 | royallahaina.com/spa | IG/FB @royallahainaresort


A seaside sunset is just one of the reasons to tee up at Kā‘anapali Golf Courses.

Par for the Course COURTESY OF KĀ‘ANAPALI GOLF COURSES

Enjoy ocean views and open spaces at Maui’s “fore”-most fairways. Story by Kyle Ellison

Did you know that Kā‘anapali Beach Resort has more than 300 acres of lush, green space where you can work up a sweat, find solitude and enjoy the fresh island air? Hint: It’s just steps from the golden sand, and all you need to enjoy it are some golf clubs — or even just your feet. With 36 perfectly manicured, world-famous holes, Kā‘anapali Golf Courses are as happening as ever. For director Sutee Nitakorn, this popularity reinforces his sentiment that golf is, as they say, the game of a life-

Fall 2021–Winter 2022 57


Kā‘anapali Golf Courses features 36 world-class holes spread across 300 acres of impeccably manicured grounds.

people away from their screens, spending their day outside,” says Nitakorn. “There are new golfers here as well as [returning guests], and as a golf professional, it’s really exciting to be able to provide everyone with a fun experience and showcase all of the healthy and positive aspects of the sport of golf.” The coaching staff, which Nitakorn describes as “one of the best instructional teams you’ll find anywhere in the nation,” has been busy as well. Many visitors spent the past year getting more acquainted with golf, so it’s little surprise that they want to continue their training on Maui. “Let’s say you live in Chicago and you picked up golf last summer,” posits Nitakorn. “What better place to hone those skills than with the team we have here — and in this setting?” Even if you don’t book a tee time or take a lesson, the driving range opens at 6 a.m., and is the perfect outdoor respite for travelers up early from jetlag. A new development for resort guests is the Kā‘anapali Golf Courses app. Log in for exclusive, money-saving deals such as free buckets of range balls and retail discounts. You can also schedule tee times or lessons right from your phone, access an interactive digital scorecard

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LEFT & TOP SPREAD: COURTESY OF KĀ‘ANAPALI GOLF COURSES

Left: Golf is a fun, healthy way to spend the day outside with your family.


JOHN YEADON

Right: No clubs required: Try your hand (or foot!) at a round of FootGolf on the Kai course.

and use GPS to gauge yardage and locate your position on the course. Feeling competitive? A real-time leaderboard lets you see how you match up against others on the course. And when you’re done with your round, use the app to preview the menu at Roy’s — the Courses’ unofficial “19th hole” — and plan your après-golf nosh. The action shifts after 4 p.m. when friends and families can lace up their sneakers and partake in nine fun-filled holes of FootGolf, a soccer/ golf hybrid held on the Kai course. For just $20 per person ($50 for a family of four)*, players punt — and with a degree of finesse, “putt” — soccer balls into appropriately soccer-ball-sized holes. As with the standard game, there’s a par for the FootGolf course, and since rounds last about 90 minutes, it’s a great way to work up a sweat before dinner. Whether you use your Nikes or your niblicks to drive your ball, Nitakorn recommends making a reservation. “We’ll be sure to find a space for you,” he vows. *Includes soccer-ball rental. Kā‘anapali Golf Courses, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. | 808.661.3691 | kaanapaligolfcourses.com IG @kaanapaligolf | FB @kaanapaligolfresort

Kā‘anapali Golf Courses App Free, iOS and Android

Fall 2021–Winter 2022 59


WHALE WATCHING Maui’s most beloved wintertime visitors — the humpback whales — arrive to much fanfare, with festivals, educational talks and other special events held in their honor. Sign up for a whale watch with Teralani Sailing Adventures, where an onboard marine naturalist will answer your every cetacean question. Cruises depart from Kā‘anapali Beach between December 15, 2021 and April 15, 2022. Whale sightings guaranteed during the height of whale season! Teralani.net | 808.661.SAIL (7245) | IG/FB @TeralaniSailing

COURTESY OF TERALANI SAILING ADVENTURES

See

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SEE LEARN DO

EXPERIENCE A LU- ‘AU

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: WESTIN MAUI RESORT & SPA / THE SNORKEL STORE / STUDIO ART MAUI / NA KOKU

Hawai‘i’s quintessential feast comes to life at a Kā‘anapali resort hotel near you. Each with its own flavor, these celebrations are a colorful and tasty way to experience a time-honored island tradition. Take the family to Maui’s longest-running lū‘au, The Myths of Maui, at the Royal Lahaina Resort; opt for the Drums of the Pacific at The Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa; or make a reservation at The Westin Maui Resort & Spa’s Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au — with a thrilling fire-knife dance that will dazzle kids and adults alike. Find more information about each lū‘au in our Dining Guide starting on page 50.

A PIECE OF PARADISE

FISH SPOTTING

Looking to take home a sparkling reminder of your tropical vacation? This Le Vian Aloha® Bird of Paradise pendant featuring multicolor gemstones and vanilla diamonds® set in 14K Honey Gold™ is the perfect keepsake. Stop into Na Hoku, Hawai‘i’s finest jewelers since 1924, to peruse all the beautiful, island-inspired pieces in their Le Vian Aloha® collection. Whalers Village | 808.667.5411 | NaHoku.com | IG @nahokujewelers | FB @NaHoku

Snorkeling is an amazing experience: with just a simple mask and a set of fins, you instantly become part of the underwater world. But weather and oceanic conditions are unpredictable, and a crummy day can make or break your excursion. Here’s where experts at The Snorkel Store in the Fairway Shops can help. In addition to offering ocean gear and beach rentals, The Snorkel Store publishes the Maui Snorkel Report, a list of the best places to spot sealife based on the day’s conditions. TheSnorkelStore.com | 808.669.1077 | IG/FB @thesnorkelstore

KEEP CALM AND TROLLEY ON

STUDIO ART MAUI

Let the free Kā‘anapali Trolley take you around the resort, and be transported to yesteryear with its old-fashioned design and open-air seating. The trolley runs from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, with stops at the resort’s hotels and condos, Whalers Village, Kā‘anapali Golf Courses, Fairway Shops and more. Go online for the full schedule of stops. kaanapalitrolley.info | 808.667.0648

French artist Nathalie Boutin attended the Art Institute of Seattle and moved to Maui in 1990. She has been painting and selling art full-time ever since. Her style is a marriage of Impressionism, folk art and realism, and her paintings are influenced by her idyllic life on Maui. Happy customers include professional athletes and TV personalities, as well as art enthusiasts around the world. thetropicalbrush.com Fall 2021–Winter 2022 61


THE WEAVE OF HAWAIIAN CULTURE Held at the Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel December 1–4, 2021, the Kauluhiwaolele Maui Fiber Conference recognizes the multiple ways in which Hawaiians use native plant materials to weave, knot, twine and twill. Students from around the world are invited to learn from 20 kumu (master practitioners) over the course of four days, and will work with ‘ie ‘ie (a woody, branching climber) to weave baskets, and wauke (paper mulberry) to make kapa (cloth), among other traditional arts. Students will also participate in traditional Hawaiian ceremonies, and will learn about the conservation and restoration of the raw weaving materials on Maui. kbhmaui.com/kauluhiwaolele | 808.661.0011

AUBREY HORD

Learn

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LAHAINA HERITAGE MUSEUM

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: LAHAINA RESTORATION FOUNDATION / JOHN GIORDANI / HYATT REGENCY MAUI RESORT & SPA / ROYAL LAHAINA RESORT

A visit to the Old Lahaina Courthouse is a must for history buffs. This free exhibit of artifacts from Hawai‘i’s rich, eclectic past includes the actual flag that flew above the courthouse during the Hawaiian monarchy ... that is, until assistant postmaster Arthur Waal was ordered to lower the flag and raise the Stars and Stripes when the U.S. annexed the Islands in 1898. LahainaRestoration.org | IG/FB @lahainarestoration

STRING ALONG The plucky little ‘ukelele is a local favorite, beloved by everyone from backyard strummers to Hawai‘i’s top entertainers. A surprising array of celebrities also have found the humble ‘ukulele appealing — from Arthur Godfrey to Elvis Presley, and Taylor Swift to Eddie Vedder of Pearl Jam. Guests at the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa can now follow suit. As part of the hotel’s weekly cultural activities calendar, guests can partake in a one-hour instructional course taught by an expert instructor. Meet in the lobby, borrow one of the hotel’s ‘ukuleles and learn to play some traditional Hawaiian tunes. Sheraton-Maui.com | 808.661.0031

SWING & SWAY

Got hips? Then you can hula! The Royal Lahaina offers fee hula lessons for anyone of any age and ability. Lessons are held on the oceanfront lawn on Wednesdays from 10 to 11 a.m. Call guest services for more information, or to reserve a space. 808.661.3611 ext. 2348

HOOKED ON ASTRONOMY

For millennia, Polynesians traversed the vast Pacific guided only by the stars. Learn how to interpret the night sky from the rooftop of the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa with Eddie Mahoney, the Hyatt’s director of astronomy. Using powerful telescopes, Mahoney conducts a nightly Tour of the Stars, and can explain, for example, that Polynesians know Scorpius by a different name: Ka Makua Nui o Maui — “the great fishhook of Maui.” As the legend goes, the demigod used this magic hook to pull the Hawaiian Islands up out of the sea. Ancient travelers needed to know the weather, and sailing when Antares (the constellation’s brightest star) was directly overhead increased their chances of survival. Reservations required. 808.667.4727 Fall 2021–Winter 2022 63


Do UFO PARASAIL

COURTESY OF UFO PARASAIL

Parasailing technology was developed during World War II as a means to search for enemy submarines, but UFO Parasail president Greg VanderLaan helped turn it into fun. VanderLaan invented a way for riders to take off from the back of a boat rather than from a beach or a dock — an engineering contribution that earned him a Lifetime Achievement Award from the Water Sports Industry Association. In its 30-plus years in business, UFO Parasail has lifted more than a million adventurers into flight. Parasailing is offered outside of whale season, from May 16 through December 14. UFOParasail.net | 800.359.4836 | IG/FB @ufoparasail

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MAUI BREWS MEET MAUI VIEWS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: HYATT REGENCY MAUI RESORT & SPA / ROYAL LAHAINA RESORT / KAANAPALI SURF CLUB / WHALERS VILLAGE

Love craft beer? What about a good sunset? Now you can have both at the Halona Kai Beer Garden. This pop-up venue at the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa serves locally made craft beer and seltzers from Maui Brewing Co. Try the Sunshine Girl golden ale, Pono Life IPA, or an aromatic Pineapple Mana wheat beer. There’s also food, music, lawn games and plenty of outdoor seating. The Halona Kai Beer Garden is open on select dates from 4 to 9 p.m., and also is available for private events. hyattregencymaui.com | 808.661.1234

CHILD’S PLAY The play area at Whalers Village is the stuff of childhood dreams. Kids can tackle the twostory climbing structure by navigating giant colorful petals, and aqua-babies can splash around in the nearby water fountains. Open 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. WhalersVillage.com | IG/FB @whalersvillage

TENNIS, ANYONE? For more than 50 years, the Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch has been providing visitors and the local community with tennis programs and events in its 3,500-seat stadium and 10 surrounding courts. Set up a game with friends and family, or ask the staff to pair you with another player of the same level who’s looking for a match. The Ranch also features a pro shop, private and group lessons, clinics for all ages, and five courts lit for night play! royallahainatennisranch.com | 808.667.5200

LOGO TO GO

AQUA GLIDER

It’s tough to pack your bags and say aloha to Maui — so take a piece of Kā‘anapali home with you! Visit the Kā‘anapali Golf Shop for all sorts of remembrances, including men’s and women’s apparel, golf shirts, hats, gifts and more. KaanapaliGolfCourses.com/Store

Though we mortals haven’t yet figured out how to walk on water, renting a Hobie Mirage Eclipse — aka the Aqua Glider — comes pretty close. This pedal-powered watercraft with handlebar steering is best described as a combination stairstepper and stand-up paddleboard, and is available for rent exclusively at Kaanapali Surf Club. See the map on Page 14 for locations. kaanapalisurfclub.com | 808.270.0044 | IG @kaanapalisurfclub | FB @kaanapalisurf Fall 2021–Winter 2022 65


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