Kā‘anapali Magazine Fall 2019/Winter 2020

WHERE THE WORLD COMES TO PLAY

FA L L / W I N T E R 2 0 1 9 - 2 0 2 0

q K Ā‘A N A P A L I M A G A Z I N E V 7 N 2

HAWAI‘I’S BEST BEACH FALL/WINTER 2019-2020

q YOUR FREE ISSUE

TERALANI SAILING ADVENTURES IS PROUD TO INTRODUCE TERALANI 4 Kaanapali’s newest custombuilt luxury sailing catamaran is Teralani 4. Teralani 4 was designed by world famous yacht designers Morelli and Melvin to maximize performance while maintaining the comfort of a finely appointed sailing yacht.

Teralani 4 will be operating alongside Teralani 2 and Teralani 3 with daily snorkel trips to The Island of Lana’i as well as Sunset Cocktail and Dinner Sails.

Please join us and see what all the excitement is about.

Call (808) 661-1230 www.teralani.net Also, look for the arrival of Teralani 5, the sister ship to Teralani 4 in the fall of 2019.

TERAL ANI SAILING ADVENTURES EXPERIENCE LANA‘I

ON HAWAII’S NEWEST LUXURY BUILT CATAMARAN

CONVENIENTLY DEPARTS FROM KA‘ANAPALI BEACH

Sushi. Steak. Seafood.

Voted Best Maui Restaurant, Best Sushi, and Best Asian Cuisine 2019 Located at Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, Japengo offers a gastronomic adventure you’ll want to relive over and over.

Fresh sushi, modern Asian-Pacific flavors and local island ingredients come together through share plates and indulgent entrees. dinner: 5:30pm - 9:30pm lounge: 5:00pm - 10:00pm happy hour: 5:00pm - 6:00pm

maui.regency.hyatt.com 200 Nohea Kai Drive | Lahaina, HI 96761 808 667 4727 | @japengo.maui

Make cherished memories at Maui’s most exciting lu‘au!

Stunning sunset views from the oceanside venue Traditional imu ceremony Delicious all-you-can-eat Hawaiian cuisine Open bar featuring beer, wine, Mai Tais and more

Best Maui Lu‘au ‘Aipono Award Winner Book online and receive a FREE GIFT at

drumsofthepacificmaui.com

Children’s menu options and gluten free items available On-stage hula lesson Authentic songs, chants and dramatic dances Three-man Samoan fire knife dance!

Enter special offer code: KAANAPALI 200 NOHEA KAI DRIVE, KA‘ANAPALI HYATT CONCIERGE 808.667.4727

Offer available for online reservations only. Offer expires 3/31/19.

May not be combined with other offers. A Tihati Production. The trademark HYATT and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2019 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved. TA-161-564-6720-01

CONTENTS FEATURES

26

34

42

Kā‘anapali by the Numbers

Bountiful Breadfruit

The Weave of History

It takes a lot of aloha to measure up to

A Hawaiian delicacy of the past may

In the plaited leaves of the pandanus tree,

your expectations. How do we do it?

be the food of the future.

lauhala master Pōhaku Kaho‘ohanohano

Let us count the ways!

passes along an ancient tradition.

About our cover: Our thanks to the readers of USA Today for voting Kā’anapali Beach #1 in Hawai’i.

42

COVER PHOTO CREDIT: YINYANG; LEFT: SUE HUDELSON PHOTOGRAPHY; RIGHT: NINA KUNA

34

6 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Our Wave collection comes in several styles and sizes and is available in 14K Yellow, White or Rose Gold.

An incomparable collection of Hawaiian and Island lifestyle jewelry MAUI KAANAPALI: Whalers Village • Hyatt Regency Maui LAHAINA: 744 Front Street, across from the seawall • 858 Front Street, across from Bubba Gump • Lahaina Cannery WAILEA: The Shops at Wailea, Upper level • Grand Wailea Resort KAHULUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center NaHoku.com • 1-800-260-3912 Best of HONOLULU MAGAZINE 2018

HAWAII’S BEST

People’s Choice Awards The Star-Advertiser 2019

HAWAII MAGAZINE Readers’ Choice Award 2019

18

DEPARTMENTS pg. 12 Contributors

We’re pleased to introduce some of the talented folks behind Kā‘anapali Magazine.

pg. 14

A Word from the President Meet Thomas Bell, president of Hawaiian Hotels & Resorts and current president of Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association.

pg. 16

Where . . . ?

Keep our resort map handy and find what you’re looking for.

pg. 18 Nīele

A native flower that inspired the legend of a tragic love affair . . . a walk into Lahaina’s royal past . . . an operations manager who greets the dawn at the ocean’s edge with the call of the conch shell . . . if we’ve sparked your nīele (curiosity), read on!

DINING pg. 48

Global Entrée

pg. 68

restaurant is your ticket to a culinary journey around the world.

Royal Treatments Pamper yourself like a king or queen at the Royal Lahaina’s Alana Spa.

pg. 54

In the Kitchen

pg. 74

When Chef de Cuisine Jesse Pita says his chicken cacciatore is just like

Sea Learn Do

Grandma used to make, he means it.

Looking for adventures by land or sea?

Get a taste at Pūlehu, an Italian Grill.

Hawaiian culture or island history?

Whatever activities you’re into, you’ve come to the right place.

pg. 56

Cool Treats

pg. 80 Calendar

Love shave ice? Ice cream? Frozen yogurt and sorbet? Here’s where to find a freeze to please every taste bud.

Check here for special events and resort activities that don’t come along every day, plus a few of our favorite happenings around Maui.

pg. 59

Dining Guide Hungry? Whatever you’re in the mood for, you’ll find it at Kā‘anapali, just a beach walk away.

8 Kā‘anapali Magazine

54

The Sheraton Maui’s new ROCKsalt

LEFT: JASON MOORE PHOTOGRAPHY; TOP: MIEKO HORIKOSHI PHOTOGRAPHY

CONTENTS

68

Kaanapali Beachfront Estate Sites

Maui’s Grand Oceanfront Estate

Puunoa Equestrian Estate

Kaanapali Coffee Farms

One-Acre Estate Site at Lanikeha

Masters at Kaanapali Hillside #706

We Represent Over $160M Of Maui’s Finest Oceanfront, Resort, and Estate Properties.

N a m L . Le Viet

Mary A nne Fitc h

R E A LT O R ( S ) , R S - 6 1 8 1 0

R E A LT O R – B R O K E R , R B - 1 5 7 4 7

808.283.9007 | nam@mauisold.com

808.250.1583 | sold@maui.net | soldmaui.com

mauisold.com

$700+ Million in Sales Since 1988

Certified International Property Specialist

Hawaii Business Maui’s #1 Realtor 2015 HawaiiLife.com | (800) 667-5028 | 500 Bay Drive in Kapalua Hawaii Life is an Exclusive Affiliate of Christie’s International Real Estate

THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH RESORT ASSOCIATION

Published by Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. EDITORIAL

Managing Editor Lehia Apana Art Director Paul B. Morris Consulting Editor Rita Goldman Digital Editor Adelle Lennox Shopping Editor Marluy Andrade MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Account Manager Brooke Tadena Sales & Production Coordinator Lisa Liu Advertising Sales 808-242-8331 ADMINISTRATION

Business Development Michael Haynes Controller & Office Manager Kao Kushner CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Lehia Apana, Kyle Ellison, John Giordani, Teya Penniman, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere, Alma Tassi, Matthew Thayer, Shannon Wianecki CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Craig Elevitch, John Giordani, Mieko Horikoshi, Sue Hudelson, Nina Kuna, Jason Moore, Paul Morris, Flip Nicklin-Minden Pictures, Ryan Siphers, Becky Speere, Forest & Kim Starr, Matthew Thayer

Email Address Info@Mauimagazine.net Kā‘anapali Magazine is published semiannually by Haynes Publishing Group, Inc., 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, Hi 96793; (808) 242-8331. ©2019 All rights reserved.

This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter.

The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. Printed in USA. Individual issues are available upon written request to Haynes Publishing Group, Inc., 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793, or by email: info@MauiMagazine.Net. Cost is $3 per magazine plus shipping and handling. Payments in U.S. currency only.

Kā‘anapali Magazine is produced in cooperation with Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association.

Kā‘anapali Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi— an environmental leader in the industry whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, and Eating & Drinking

10 Kā‘anapali Magazine

MAUI OCEAN CENTER T H E A Q U A R I U M O F H AWA I ‘ I

Must See HUMPBACKS OF HAWAI‘I EXHIBIT & SPHERE

Top 10 Best Aquariums in the World – TripAdvisor Travelers’ Choice Awards

Best Children’s Activity on Maui – Maui Time Weekly Best of Maui

#1 Best Zoo or Aquarium

– Hawaii Magazine, Reader’s Choice Awards

2019 SXSW Interactive Innovation Awards Finalist MauiOceanCenter.com 808.270.7000 | 9am - 5pm

contributors

KYLE ELLISON

JOHN GIORDANI

MIEKO HORIKOSHI

JASON MOORE

TEYA PENNIMAN

A freelance writer, Kyle is the author of the Moon Handbook to Maui, Moloka‘i, and Lāna‘i. His work has appeared in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, Travel + Leisure, The San Francisco Chronicle, Travel Channel, Escape, Journey, Hana Hou! and Hawaii Magazine.

Kyle lives in Kula with his wife and two sons.

Follow him online: @TheMauiExpert and TheMauiExpert.com.

Twelve years ago, John moved to Maui after working in New York City’s publishing and digital design worlds. For the past eight years, he was creative director at Haynes Publishing Group, publisher of Kā‘anapali and Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi magazines, for which he also wrote stories. John decided last spring to head back to the East Coast. We miss him, and wish him success in his next adventures.

Equal parts foodie and photographer, Mieko finds that the island’s culinary scene serves as a constant—and delicious—muse.

She is a member of the Professional Photographers of America and the American Society of Media Photographers.

Born and raised in Japan, Mieko moved to Maui in 1994, where she lives with her two daughters.

Follow her online: @MiekoPhoto and @MiekoPhotoPortrait.

With his deep love for the ocean, it’s no wonder photographer Jason Moore calls Hawai‘i’s waters home. Jason spends the winter working with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) as a research and rescue assistant for humpback whale research. When he’s not in the water or shooting on location, Jason shows his photography at the Four Seasons

Teya’s passion for the natural world has taken her around the globe as a reporter and video producer at international meetings on the environment.

But her favorite focus is local. Her story about one of Maui’s celebrated weavers reflects on the intersection of plant, people and place.

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BECKY SPEERE

ALMA TASSI

MATTHEW THAYER

SHANNON WIANECKI

The daughter of a Hawai‘i-born mother of Japanese ancestry and a father from an Alabama coal-mining town, Becky grew up on the Big Island amid a world of flavors: butter beans and ham hocks, fiddlehead ferns and wild-boar sausage.

The former owner of Pa‘uwela Cafe in Ha‘ikū, Becky is a chef consultant and shares her passion for all things culinary as dining editor of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine.

A freelance writer and editor, Alma has worked for several publications, including Spirituality & Health and Travel + Leisure. She has also edited books on spirituality, personal growth, and women’s issues. Originally from the East Coast, she now lives on Maui with her family.

AlmaTassi.com

Matthew has been writing about golf on Maui for more than thirty-five years.

The longtime The Maui News staffer has won more than eighty state and national awards for his photography and writing. Matthew is also the author of the 30,000 B.C. Chronicles, a series of novels available online.

Named 2016 Travel Writer of the Year by the Hawaii Ecotourism Association, and Best Independent Journalist by the Society of Professional Journalists, Hawaii Chapter, Shannon has traveled to Iceland, the South Pacific, and all points in between in search of stories. Her favorite spot remains the beach within walking distance of her house on Maui.

Follow her adventures: @SWianecki.

contributors

SARAH RUPPENTHAL

Sarah is an awardwinning journalist and freelance writer.

Her stories have appeared in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, FLUX Hawaii Magazine, The Maui News and other regional publications. When she’s not working on a story, Sarah is relaxing at home on Maui’s north shore with her husband, Matt, and 125-pound “puppy,” Odie.

welcome letter

E KOMO MAI! N

Back issues of Kā‘anapali Magazine are available online.

Go to MauiMagazine.net/ Kaanapali-Magazine and click the link “Free Digital Edition.”

ot long ago, a repeat guest of ours shared a picture with me that they had taken of their coffee table back in New Jersey. I was so pleased to see Kā‘anapali Magazine right in the middle of it—sharing our aloha and the beauty of Kā‘anapali Beach Resort, “Where the World Comes to Play.”

Kā‘anapali Magazine is your personal guide to Hawai‘i’s premiere destination resort.

Each issue, we bring you a wealth of information about the activities and amenities that have made Kā‘anapali Beach Resort a model for destinations around the globe: awardwinning restaurants and lū‘au, enticing shopping experiences, golf, tennis, and ocean adventures along our three-mile stretch of golden sand.

Want to hit the fairways like a pro? Writer and golf aficionado Matthew Thayer offers advice on playing the trade winds, and how to read the greens on the slopes of the Royal Kā‘anapali and Kā‘anapali Kai courses. If you’re drawn more to the ocean’s siren song, check out our “See Learn Do” section for information on sailing lessons at Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas, mermaid lessons for your small fry at the Hyatt Regency Maui, and whalewatch sails aboard the Teralani. (Whale season runs from December through mid-May, but don’t be surprised to see a few humpbacks arriving before or after those official dates.)

Looking to relax after all that activity? I can’t think of a better way to do so than with a treatment (or two) at one of our outstanding spas. This issue features Kā‘anapali’s newest such venue: Alana Spa at the Royal Lahaina Resort. And if great dining is your cup of tea, you’ll want to read Alma Tassi’s report on globally inspired dining at the Sheraton Maui’s new ROCKsalt . . . Becky Speere’s roundup of cool treats . . . and Sarah Ruppenthal’s “In the Kitchen” profile of Jesse Pita, chef de cuisine of Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, at The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas.

At Kā‘anapali, we never forget that what sets Hawai‘i apart is our host culture. Explore these pages, and you’ll discover the story of ‘ulu (breadfruit), which nourished islanders for a thousand years and is making a comeback in exciting new ways; take a walking tour with Makalapua Kanuha that leads into Lahaina and back in time; and meet Pōhaku Kaho‘ohanohano, a master of the ancient art of lauhala weaving. (Meet Pōhaku in person, along with other experts, during Kauluhiwaolele: Maui Fiber Arts Conference at Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, September 4 through 7, 2019.)

I hope you enjoy this issue of Kā‘anapali Magazine while you are with us, and encourage you to take it back home as a souvenir of your stay.

You can also find our past issues online at MauiMagazine.net/KaanapaliMagazine. Please also feel free to visit KaanapaliResort.com for 24/7 access to photography, rates and more.

Have fun on your Kā‘anapali vacation. We look forward to welcoming you back for many years to come!

Mahalo,

Tom Bell President Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association

14 Kā‘anapali Magazine

EXPERIENCE MAUI’S MOST EXCITING OCEANFRONT LUAU!

A TIMELESS BEACHFRONT RESORT

• Shell lei Aloha greeting

• Set on award-winning

• Complimentary Mai Tais and open bar • Imu ceremony • All-you-can-eat Hawaiian buffet

Kaanapali Beach

• Fully renovated guest rooms and suites

• Exclusive buffet for keiki (kids)

• Open-air, oceanfront dining

• Enchanting song and dance performances

• World-class tennis ranch

• Awe-inspiring fire knife finale

• NO RESORT FEES

• Breathtaking backdrop of Maui’s spectacular sunset

RESERVATIONS

808-201-5590 | MythsOfMaui.com/Save

2780 Kekaa Drive, Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii 96761 HawaiianHotels.com | 1-800-22-ALOHA

RESORT MAP Pu‘ukoli‘i Road

Honoapi’ilani Highway

A

30

C

B

Keka’a

U

Drive



Kai Ala Drive

D

Q Y E

Z

Beachwalk

AQUALANI LOCATIONS:

Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club PUBLIC PARKING

MEDICAL

BEACH ACCESS

KĀ‘ANAPALI TROLLEY

Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas The Westin Maui Resort & Spa The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas

Hotels & Condos

Activities

A. The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas

Heavenly Spa by Westin* (I)

Leilani’s on the Beach (W)

B. The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean

Kamaha‘o, a Marilyn Monroe Spa* (M)

Mai Tai Bar (F)

list of resortwide attractions. Here’s a sample:

The Spa at Black Rock* (F)

Mauka Makai (A)

Aqualani (Z)

C. Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas

The Spa at The Whaler (H)

Monkeypod Kitchen (W)

Hale Huaka’i Ocean Activities Center (G)

D. Royal Lahaina Resort

Spa Breathe Maui (C)

Pailolo Bar & Grill (B)

Island Style Adventures (W)

E. Maui Eldorado KaanapaliSM

Spa Helani, a Heavenly Spa by Westin* (B)

Paradise Grill (V)

Kā‘anapali Golf Courses Clubhouse (O)

Pau Huaka'i Tiki Bar (L)

Ka‘anapali Surf Club (Y)

Dining

Pūlehu, an Italian Grill (B)

Kahekili Park & Keka‘a Beach (Q)

Pu‘ukoli‘i General Store (B)

Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch (U)

Auntie’s Kitchen (B)

ROCKsalt (F)

Skyline Eco Adventures (P)

Beach Bar (I)

Round Table Pizza (X)

Sunset Cliff Dive Ceremony (R)

I. The Westin Maui Resort & Spa

Beach Walk Kau Kau to Go (K)

Roy’s Kā‘anapali (O)

Teralani Sailing Adventures (S)

J. Kaanapali Alii Resort

Castaway Café (C)

Royal Ocean Terrace Restaurant & Lounge (D)

UFO Parasail & Adventures (T)

K. Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club

China Bowl Asian Cuisine (X)

Royal Scoop (D)

Whale Center of Hawai‘i (W)

L. Hyatt Residence Club,

CJ’s Deli & Diner (X)

Sea Dogs Snack Bar (I)

Resort Villas

by Outrigger®

F. Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa G. Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel H. Aston at The Whaler on

Kaanapali Beach

Your concierge will be happy to provide a full

Cliff Dive Grill (F)

Starbucks (K)

M. Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa

Colonnade Café (I)

Swan Court Breakfast/Son’z Steakhouse (M)

N. Kā‘anapali Royal

Hank’s Haute Dogs (F)

Teppan-yaki Dan (F)

Honolulu Coffee Company (M)

Tiki Bar & Grill (G)

Legends of Kā‘anapali Lū‘au (G)

Spas & Salons

Hula Grill & Barefoot Bar (W)

Tiki Terrace Restaurant (G)

Maui Nui Lū‘au at Black Rock (F)

Inu Pool Bar (A)

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice (M)

The Myths of Maui Lū‘au (D)

* Full spa (wet & dry therapies)

Island Press Coffee (X)

‘Ūmalu (M)

Alana Spa (D)

Japengo (M)

Whalers Village Food Court (W)

Alii Spa (J)

Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room (K)

Beauty of Aloha Spa & Salon (G)

Kai Ala Market (B)

Hale Mana Wellness Center (K)

Lahaina Provision Company (L)

Kā'anapali Beach

16 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Lū‘au

Drums of the Pacific Lū‘au (M)

X

P

N

Kā’anapali Beach Resort Association

E

Keka ’a

O

V

Drive

M

Kā’anapali Parkway

G

F

ali Kā’anap

H

ay

rkw

Pa

I

W

Noh

J

Y S

R

Shopping

T

L

rive

ai D ea K

Y

K Beachwalk

Y

Y

ADDRESS KEY:

Aston at The Whaler on Kaanapali Beach, 2481 Ka‘anapali Pkwy.

Tommy Bahama

Martin & MacArthur Home

Tori Richard

Newlin-Chaney Gallery

X. FAIRWAY SHOPS AT KĀ‘ANAPALI

APPAREL

TravisMathew

Oakley

Artistic Nails & Spa

Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Dr.

Billabong

T-Shirt Factory

Olukai

China Bowl Asian Cuisine

Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr.

Blue Ginger

Volcom

Paradise Lahaina

CJ’s Deli & Diner

Hyatt Residence Club Maui, 180 Nohea Kai Dr.

Blue Ginger Kids

ATTRACTIONS

Sand People

Edward Jones

Kaanapali Alii Resort, 50 Nohea Kai Dr.

Cariloha

Maui Escape Rooms

Sephora

The Hair Hale

Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy.

Cinnamon Girl

Whale Pavilion

SoHa Living

Harris Hawaii Realty

Kā‘anapali Royal, 2560 Keka‘a Dr.

Crazy Shirts

JEWELRY

Sunglass Hut

Island Attitudes

Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 100 Nohea Kai Dr.

Crocs

Alex and Ani

Totally Hawaiian Gift Gallery

Cruise

Glass Mango Design

SERVICES

Island Press Coffee

Royal Kā‘anapali Golf Clubhouse, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy.

Honolua Surf Co.

Hawaii Jewelers

Island Style Adventures

OneMain Financial

Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Dr.

Johnny Was

Keani Hawaii

REAL ESTATE

Round Table Pizza

Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy.

Lilly Pulitzer

Martin & MacArthur

Timeshare Resales Hawaii

Skyline Eco Adventures

Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr.

Logowear Maui

Maui Divers Jewelry

Whalers Associates KW

The Snorkel Store

Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy.

Lost On Maui

Na Hoku

SPECIALTY FOOD

Spa Juva & FitExpress

The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy.

Lululemon Athletica

Pandora

Choice

Urgent Care West Maui

Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy.

Louis Vuitton

Tourneau

Häagen-Dazs

Valley Isle Fitness Center

Mahina

Whalers Fine Jewelry

Island Vintage Coffee

VanQuaethem Chiropractic

KĀ‘ANAPALI TROLLEY (808) 667-0648 Kā‘anapali area only.

Travel is complimentary among Kā‘anapali hotels, golf course,

Malibu Shirts

SUNDRY

Ono Gelato Company

Whalers General Store

Whalers Village Shopping Center, and Fairway Shops.

Maui Resort Wear

ABC Stores

Yogurtland

Whalers Realty

ADA lifts. Runs from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.

Maui WaterWear

GIFT, ART, SPECIALTY

FOOD COURT

Chapel Hats

Joey’s Kitchen

Quiksilver/Roxy

Flip Flop Shops

Nikki’s Pizza

Royal Trading Company ~ D The Shops at the Hyatt ~ M Shops at Westin Maui ~ I

MAUI PUBLIC TRANSIT (ROBERTS) SHUTTLE

PacSun Rip Curl

Honolulu Cookie Company

Ohana Tacos

Wharf Cinema Center in Lahaina, or Walmart/Kmart in

Subway

Kahului. $1–$2 between each point. (Call for details.)

W. WHALERS VILLAGE SHOPPING CENTER

Soul Lei

Furnishings & Design

Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas, 45 Kai Ala Dr.

Maui Eldorado KaanapaliSM by Outrigger®, 2661 Keka‘a Dr.

(808) 871-4838 From Whalers Village Shopping Center in

Kā‘anapali, ride to Kapalua Resort, Lahaina Cannery Mall or

NĪELE nature

BEACH NAUPAKA: OPERA BY THE SEA The half-flowers of this humble plant inspired a myth of tragic love.

Against the salt air, beach naupaka thrusts up clusters of slightly succulent green leaves. This robust coastal shrub is among the most accessible native Hawaiian plants; see it hedging beachfront resorts or dangling white, waxy fruits over wild cliff faces along the road to Hāna.

Tucked between its leaves are tiny, white, lopsided blooms—five-petaled half-flowers. The ancient Hawaiians noted this curiosity and found the beach plant’s doppelganger in the forest: naupaka kuahiwi, a mountain shrub bearing the same strange blossom.

The twin plants sparked numerous legends throughout the ages—most of which follow a Romeo-and-Juliet trajectory, describing star-crossed lovers doomed to eternal separation. Naupaka even served as the title and inspiration for the first Hawaiian-language opera.

Performed in 2006, that version of the story sung of the forbidden love between a Hawaiian chief and a slave woman.

18 Kā‘anapali Magazine

In fact, Hawai‘i is home to ten—not just two—naupaka species. Nine are endemic, meaning they evolved here and exist naturally nowhere else on earth. In addition to the coastal and mountain varieties, there is a dwarf shrub, a sprawling dune plant, and a rainforest species with a deep-throated, golden flower that’s reminiscent of a lobelia.

Though it’s the most common, the humble beach naupaka has a few worthy gems to offer the budding botanist. Both the fruits and the flowers make lovely lei. The wee blooms, when strung together, produce an intoxicating honeyed scent. And snorkelers are fond of the plant, which serves as a free and readily available defogger. The juice from a few crushed leaves will keep masks from clouding up underwater.

Next time you’re at the beach, take a few moments to appreciate the lovely naupaka reaching its leafy arms up from the sand. Don’t blame us if you break into song.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY FOREST & KIM STARR

STO RY BY S H A N N O N W I A N EC K I

go beyond the beach and explore our

culture 2018

voted “best hotel in hawaiʻi”

1-808-661-0011 www.kbhmaui.com

NĪELE culture

OH, THE PLACES YOU’LL GO

The Mo‘olelo o Lele walking tour brings Lahaina town’s past to life.

I

t’s a bright and breezy Thursday morning, and I’m seated on a motor coach that’s idling outside the entrance of The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas. As the last passenger settles in, we pull away from the curb, bound for Lahaina town. Makalapua Kanuha, director of culture for The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas and The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, stands, microphone in hand, and says, “I have so much to share with you today!”

In 2015, Makalapua debuted the walking tour Mo‘olelo o Lele (“Stories of Lele,” an early name for Lahaina) to spotlight Lahaina’s historical and cultural gems, many of them hidden in plain sight. As we head to the tour’s starting point, she delivers a goosebump-inducing oli (chant) and tells us of her ancestral connections to West Maui. Then, to the delight of the history buffs onboard, she showers us with facts: Did we know Lahaina was once the royal capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom? That it is home to the oldest high school west of the Mississippi River—and the first printing press west of the Rocky Mountains?

Our first stop is Wai‘ola Church, one of only two royal mausoleums in Hawai‘i and the resting place of Queen Keōpūolani, King Kamehameha I’s most sacred wife.

Standing in front of the queen’s tomb, Makalapua shares riveting stories of Hawai‘i’s ali‘i (chiefly class) before

20 Kā‘anapali Magazine

leading us into the historic heart of Lahaina. We visit the town’s famed banyan tree, the Old Lahaina Courthouse, the Hau‘ola Stone (once used as a birthing site by ali‘i), and the Baldwin Home Museum, former residence of medical missionary Rev. Dwight Baldwin. Built in the 1830s, it’s the oldest house still standing on Maui.

At each stop, Makalapua gives us a nuanced history lesson that is sprinkled with personal anecdotes. It’s far from your run-of-the-mill walking tour led by a flag-wielding docent; Makalapua delivers an authentic, unscripted and refreshingly informal experience. In fact, by the time we reach our final stop, Campbell Park (site of the home of Lahaina’s first Protestant missionary, Rev. William Richards), it feels as if I’ve just taken a leisurely stroll with friends. In two-and-a-half hours, we cover just over a mile. I’ve logged almost 2,000 steps on my Apple Watch—and every step told a story.

The Mo‘olelo o Lele walking tour is open to guests of The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas North, and The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas by reservation only. For information, call The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas concierge desk at 1-888-641-8210.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON MOORE

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NĪELE people

BRINGING CULTURE TO HIS OFFICE Meet Fred Torres, Kaanapali Alii Resort’s ambassador of aloha.

I

t’s 6 a.m. on New Year’s Day, and a crowd has gathered on Kā‘anapali Beach to meet Fred Torres. Dressed in a ceremonial kīhei (cape), he blows a conch and guides the group into the surf, chanting “E ala e” (“arise”). This is the annual hi‘uwai ceremony at Kaanapali Alii Resort.

Hi‘uwai (“to cleanse in seawater”) is a purification rite to wash away a year’s worth of worry, stress or grief.

Fred is Kaanapali Alii’s operations manager, as well as its cultural advisor. He introduced hi‘uwai to guests and employees in 2010. “It felt like something was missing; we needed to offer an authentic Hawaiian cultural experience,” he recalls. Since that first hi‘uwai, attendance has blossomed; in 2014, Fred added a second ceremony, on Easter Sunday. “It has changed peoples’ lives,” he says.

“Each year, I see tears of joy and appreciation.”

Fred envisioned the ceremony as a way to start the New Year right and to share aloha. His goal is to send visitors home with something they can’t find in a hotel gift shop.

“I’m a steward of this land. It’s my responsibility to create cultural awareness for our guests,” he says. “It’s my hope they will share it with others when they return home.”

This pay-it-forward philosophy also extends to the 100-plus employees of Kaanapali Alii. With more than thirty years in the visitor industry, Fred easily maintains

22 Kā‘anapali Magazine

a corporate culture, but it’s influenced by Hawaiian values like kuleana (personal responsibility), laulima (working together), kōkua (care) and ‘ohana (family). Soon after joining the hotel, Fred launched Service First, employee training built around the principle of E ho‘okela i ka mana‘olana i nā malihini āpau i na manawa āpau loa: “To exceed the expectations of every guest, every time.”

The program emphasizes working in harmony, helping without being asked, being accountable and respecting the role of family—both at work and at home. “It’s a team effort,” he says. “We take every opportunity to express the spirit of aloha.”

An O‘ahu native, Fred moved to Maui in 1992 and studied with well-known kūpuna (elders), who taught him Hawaiian history, language, values and practices.

Since then, he’s been sharing that knowledge with anyone who expresses interest. Guests of Kaanapali Alii may be here to unwind and relax, but Fred says he encounters many who are deeply curious about Hawaiian culture and its traditions. Besides conducting the hi‘uwai ceremony, Fred hosts storytelling sessions and teaches kids how to play the ‘ukulele. “I share a message of aloha with everyone I meet,” he says. “I want others to know who we are as a people—not about our ethnicity, but what’s in our hearts.”

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON MOORE

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kā‘anapali by IT TAKES A LOT OF ALOHA TO 26 Kā‘anapali Magazine

MEASURE UP TO YOUR

47

shakes a Tahitian dancer’s hips complete each minute

10,000-12,000 Humpback whales visiting Maui’s waters each year

Source: Whale Trust (WhaleTrust.org/whales-are-back)

LEFT: FLIP NICKLIN-MINDEN PICTURES; RIGHT: DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC, HYATT REGENCY MAUI RESORT & SPA

Source: Compiler videotaped a dancer at the Hyatt Regency Maui’s Drums of the Pacific lū‘au, slowed the video to counting speed—and counted.

the numbers

EXPECTATIONS. HOW DO WE DO IT? LET US COUNT THE WAYS! Compiled by KYLE ELLISON

25,00030,000

plastic straws saved from the landfill every month by Sheraton Maui’s switch to paper straws

LEFT & RIGHT: COURTESY OF SHERATON MAUI RESORT & SPA; BELOW: JOHN GIORDANI

Source: Katelyn Mayer, Public Relations Director, Sheraton Maui

29

kinds of marine creatures you can see while snorkeling at Pu‘u Keka‘a Source: Staff at Five Star Scuba, located at Pu‘u Keka‘a

15,840

Linear feet of sandy coastline along the resort (includes Pu‘u Keka‘a, nicknamed “Black Rock”) Source: Compiler’s research

Fall/Winter 2019 -2020 29

11

hammocks along KÄ â€˜anapali Beach Source: Compiler walked the beach path and counted.

267

calories burned during a round of Kā‘anapali’s FIT golf

2-3

average height, in feet, of waves at Kā‘anapali Beach (1–1½ feet on the Hawaiian scale, which measures the back of the wave instead of the face) Source: Staff at Kaanapali Surf Club

LEFT: COURTESY OF HYATT REGENCY MAUI; THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: RYAN SIPHERS; CESARE BROTHERS, KĀ‘ANAPALI GOLF COURSE

Source: Compiler tried it while wearing a calorie counter.

22

letters in the name of Hawaii’s state fish including the ‘okina, or glottal stop: humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a

Fall/Winter 2019 -2020 31

822 standup-paddle strokes it takes to travel from one end of Kā‘anapali Beach to the other Source: Compiler paddled the distance and counted.

32 Kā‘anapali Magazine

COURTESY OF SHERATON MAUI RESORT & SPA

34 Kā‘anapali Magazine

tanding beneath the breadfruit trees, I watch the rain rush in from the sea, as it does here in East Maui. A curtain of mist advances; then I hear the soft roar as the first fat drops strike my face. Ducking deeper under the tree canopy, I’m able to stay almost dry. The same interlocking leaves that provide shade at midday act as an umbrella during cloudbursts.

I’m at the National Tropical Botanical Garden in Hāna, sheltered under the elegant, sixty-foot-tall trees that stand at the base of Pi‘ilanihale, the largest heiau (temple) in Hawai‘i. This mind-bending, three-acre archeological site dates back to the fourteenth century; its attending orchard is just as ancient. These particular breadfruit trees are the grandchildren of those planted to feed bygone kings and queens. After hundreds of years, this pre-Contact grove is still producing food. If only we remembered how to eat it.

Breadfruit is still beloved in Samoa and Tonga, where it’s salted and steamed or mashed with coconut. But here in Hawai‘i, the nutrientpacked Polynesian staple has fallen so far out of fashion it’s hard to find. Few grocery stores carry it. It’s a special-order item from distributors like Kula Produce. People with backyard breadfruit trees fret over the bright green, smallish volleyballs rotting on their lawn. Little do they know that they’re sitting on a resource that could very well feed the world. Luckily, several dedicated people are working to re-

SUE HUDELSON PHOTOGRAPHY

Story by SHANNON

WIANECKI

bountiful BREADFRUIT

A Hawaiian delicacy of the past may be the food of the future.

In Hawaiian, pono means “goodness,” “excellence,” a fitting name for Pono Pies.

John Cadman’s Maui Breadfruit Company makes the ‘ulu-based treat in several tropical flavors, like this liliko‘i (passion fruit) dessert created for a special event at Leilani’s on the Beach in Whalers Village.

Nānā no a ka ‘ulu

NINA KUNA

i paki kēpau

store breadfruit to its rightful place, both on the plate and to “Nānā no a ka ‘ulu i paki kēpau,” or “Look for the gum‘Ulu’s bumpy green in the culture. my breadfruit,” meaning they should marry mature men of exterior hides a fruit Aside from the massive heiau, Kahanu Garden is home substance, like Kū, who would provide for them. nutritious enough to sustain a people. to the largest breadfruit collection in the world: over 120 Mythologists and botanists agree on this point: breadIts versatility varieties from thirty-one Pacific islands. This living musefruit trees make a fine inheritance. One of the most influenhas sparked new interest among um is the vision of one woman, Diane Ragone. Back in the tial naturalists of the eighteenth century, Sir Joseph Banks, contemporary cooks.

1980s, she island-hopped across Oceania to personally colcommented that “Regarding food, if a man plant ten [breadlect breadfruit samples, each one bearing unique characterfruit] trees in his life, he would completely fulfill his duty to istics. The Marquesas offered the intrepid botanist fifty-five varieties. his own as well as future generations. . . .”

Tahiti gave her dozens. Hawai‘i has only ever had just one: ‘ulu.

At the Breadfruit Institute, Ragone and her staff endeavor to fulfill As it turns out, one breadfruit can feed a family, and one variety a their duty, not just in Hawai‘i, but around the globe. Their aim? Endpeople. Packed in coconut-husk fiber and dry leaves, ‘ulu accompaing world hunger—a goal that might not be as farfetched as it sounds. nied the Polynesian voyagers in their canoes bound for Hawai‘i. Long They’ve already shipped breadfruit starts to malnourished communidomesticated, the tree relies on human cultivation. And cultivate it ties in Zimbabwe, Honduras, Ghana, and Haiti. they did. The first Hawaiians planted ‘ulu orchards that stretched for Breadfruit is rich in carbohydrates, dietary fiber, and essential miles. In the trees’ dappled shade, they grew bananas, sweet potatoes, minerals: a serving of breadfruit has the equivalent potassium of twoand wauke (paper mulberry). The largest of these agroforests, the soand-a-half potatoes, ten bananas or twenty bowls of white rice. Comcalled “breadfruit belt” in Kona on the island of Hawai‘i, numbered pared to other starchy crops, breadfruit is superior due, in part, to its around 144,000 trees. verticality. Trees require less land and far less effort to cultivate than In 1794, surgeon-naturalist Archibald Menzies of HMS Discovery do other dietary staples. described marching up from Kealakekua Bay in the “scorching heat . .

“I’d much rather go pick my starch from a tree than grow a field of . across rugged porous lava . . . when we entered the breadfruit plantawheat or potatoes,” says Ragone. tions whose spreading trees with beautiful foliage were scattered . . .

In Hawai‘i, she and her coworkers have helped plant 4,000 trees. along the side of the mountain as far as we could see.”

The Institute partners with the Hawai‘i Homegrown Food Network to Smaller ‘ulu groves flourished across the archipelago, including reawaken the community’s deep-rooted yet dormant love for ‘ulu. As one stretching from Lahaina to Olowalu on Maui’s west side. “Hālau Ho‘oulu ka ‘Ulu, they host annual breadfruit festivals on Kaua‘i and the Lahaina, malu i ka ‘ulu,” says the Hawaiian proverb: “Lahaina is like Big Island, and ‘ulu-cooking competitions in Hāna. They’ve published a large house shaded by breadfruit trees.” The small but authoritative the winning recipes in a book that celebrates ‘ulu as a delicious, affordbook Hawaiian Breadfruit states that pre-Contact orchards produced able, and culturally appropriate food. an estimated 100,000 tons of fruit annually, capable of sustaining hun“If you had to pick one Hawaiian food that showcases sustainability, dreds of thousands of people. it would be ‘ulu—even more than kalo,” says breadfruit convert John Breadfruit has always taken a backseat to kalo (taro) in these isCadman, who won the grand prize at a 2012 cook-off with ‘ulu wonlands—in contrast with other Polynesian cultures. But the true signifitons. He is passionate about fresh, wholesome food and ‘ulu tops his cance of ‘ulu in Hawai‘i has likely been underestimated. One mo‘olelo list. “It’s the most abundant food producer,” he says. (story) credits the god Kū for introducing ‘ulu to Hawai‘i. During a The former food-service manager for Kamehameha Schools’ Maui famine, Kū witnessed his mortal family’s suffering and sacrificed himcampus, Cadman worked to educate students and teachers, recalibratself, to be reborn as an ‘ulu tree. Hawaiian maidens were thus advised ing their palates to breadfruit’s allure, one meal at a time. In 2011, Fall/Winter 2019 -2020 37

38 Kā‘anapali Magazine

COURTESY OF FOREST & KIM STARR

Early Hawaiians used nearly every part of the breadfruit tree.

When missionaries arrived in the nineteenth century and introduced sewing, ‘ulu’s distinctive fruit and leaves became— and remain—a popular motif for Hawaiian quilts.

NINA KUNA

‘Ulu was behind The Bounty’s ill-fated trip.

Bligh’s mission: bring breadfruit saplings to feed West Indies slaves. shortly after he started at the school, the cafeteria kitchen began reery part of the tree. Its wood became bowls, drums, and surfboards. ceiving 100-pound deliveries of ‘ulu from NTBG’s Breadfruit Institute.

Its sap plugged holes in canoes and was incorporated into medicines “That’s just one day’s feeding!” Cadman laughs. The first time he served and musical instruments. Bird catchers smeared the sticky latex onto a riff on potato salad with ‘ulu standing in as the starch, he says, “I got branches to entrap saffron-feathered honeycreepers. Rotund breadfifty emails saying ‘hana hou’ [one more time] and calling it the hit of fruits inspired the game ‘ulu maika—Hawaiian bowling. The naturally the decade.” abrasive leaves were sandpaper for fine woodwork. And the pounded During a staff service day, Cadman invited a representative from bark became kapa, the soft, pliant cloth Hawaiians wore and slept on. the institute to come to the school to talk about ‘ulu, its history and fu“‘Ulu [kapa] is from way back,” says master kapa-maker Wesley Sen. ture in the Islands. The audience (myself included) was amazed. Then “It can be made in less than an hour, which would be necessary for comwe got cooking, the cafeteria kitchen transforming into an impromptu moners. The ali‘i [chiefs] preferred wauke, which could be decorated.” episode of Top Chef. Teachers and administrators peeled and cored a Around the same time Diane Ragone was poking around Polynesia dozen unfamiliar varieties of the fruit, as if cutting into dinosaur eggs. for breadfruit varieties, Sen was researching the disappearing art of Comparable to potato, ‘ulu can be roasted, boiled, baked, or fried with Hawaiian kapa-making with his colleague, Puanani Van Dorpe. They similarly satisfying results. One woman retrieved the school’s stone poi knew Hawaiians once made ‘ulu cloth, but they couldn’t locate anyone pounder and began methodically pounding steamed breadfruit into a living who knew how to do it. So Sen gave it his best shot: fermentcreamy yellow poi. Another made ‘ulu hummus—an award-winning ing ‘ulu bark, beating it into thin sheets, and applying the traditional recipe gleaned from the Ho‘oulu ka ‘Ulu cookbook. watermarks. His finished product lives at Bishop Museum, the state’s Inspired, I brought home two ‘ulu in varying stages of ripeness. repository of cultural artifacts.

The moderately ripe specimen was starchy and firm. I steamed it, dicSome time ago, Sen hosted an ‘ulu kapa workshop at Hale ing half to toss into tacos, and mashed the other half for fried croHo‘ike‘ike, home of the Bailey Museum in Wailuku. First, he and his quettes. The verdict: delectable. And for dessert? ‘Ulu, of course. Fully participants harvested ‘ulu bark from the Breadfruit Institute, and kuripe ‘ulu is sweet, tangy, and doughy—as pliant as unbaked bread. I ate kui (candlenut) tree roots from ‘Īao Valley for dye. Then they recreated this raw, with sticky fingers. (Cadman recommends throwing it into a the clothing of their forebears. Photos of the event reveal a remarkable food processor with almond milk, honey, and cacao for a sweet puddiversity in texture and appearance. ding.) With just two fruits, I made a three-course meal for four.

“When you show Hawaiians an image of [themselves] standing reAfter these experiments, I marveled at breadfruit’s spotty history gal in authentic costumes, they go, ‘Ahhhh . . . that’s how we were. That’s over the last few centuries. Most famously, it was the impetus for Caphow we are.’ Something awakens in them,” says Sen. He’s looking fortain Bligh’s ill-fated trip to Tahiti in 1789 on the Bounty. His mission ward to harvesting again in Hāna, where, he says, “You get chicken (at Sir Joseph Banks’s urging) was to bring breadfruit sapskin. You can tell all of the ancestors are watching.” lings back to the West Indies to feed sugar-plantation slaves.

Indeed, as I walk through the garden’s wet grounds, I Like taro corm, breadfruit can be Not only did Bligh lose his ship to mutiny, but years later, catch the scent of ripening breadfruit. The breeze, still mashed into poi, when he finally fulfilled his orders, the Jamaican slaves heavy with rain, seems to whisper, “Help yourself. We plantusing the same technique and tools: reportedly refused to eat the fruit. In the early 1900s, Haed these for you.” a pōhaku ku‘i ‘ai waiian writer W.S. Lokai claimed there were three kinds of (stone pounder) and a wooden board breadfruit: rat-eaten, wind-stricken, and soggy.

An earlier version of this story appeared in the May–June 2013 conceivably carved Clearly, Lokai’s ancestors disagreed with his assessment. issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine. from an ‘ulu tree.

Early Hawaiians didn’t just feast on breadfruit; they used evFall/Winter 2019 -2020 41

THE WEAVE OF

HISTORY In the plaited leaves of the pandanus tree, a lauhala master passes along an ancient tradition.

G

PENNIMAN | Photography by NINA KUNA

roves of the ancient hala tree (Pandanus tectorius) greeted the first Polynesians to paddle ashore here, but legend says that Pele’s wrath helped spread it about the Islands. The tree’s stiltlike prop roots and tangle of fallen, spiny-edged leaves snagged the volcano goddess’s canoe when she landed on the island of Hawai‘i. Enraged, she ripped the tree apart, casting it across the archipelago. The resilient hala took root wherever it landed along Hawai‘i’s coastlines and lower elevations.

Early Hawaiians would have welcomed the sight of hala; peoples across the Pacific used every part of the plant, including the three- tosix-foot-long lauhala (hala leaves), which burst like huge pompoms from its branch ends.

“Lauhala weaving has been in every Hawaiian family since the beginning of time—for thousands of years,” says soft-spoken master weaver and kumu (teacher) Pōhaku Kaho‘ohanohano. In the old days, every family had weavers who turned dried hala leaves into table and floor mats, baskets, pillows, mattresses, fans, clothing, thatching, and sails. “You couldn’t move into a home without a floor mat,” says Pōhaku.

As a teenager exploring his genealogy, Pōhaku discovered that his great-grandmothers were weavers, but his family’s style, traditions, and patterns died with them. None of their handwoven pieces were passed on to the next generations. “They passed away long before my time, so I had to learn outside of the family.”

Pōhaku’s retelling of his studies sounds much like a genealogical recitation. He knows exact dates of key events (first lesson—Mother’s 42 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Day 1993), first hat making (Mother’s Day 1995), when he started teaching (1996), and ages and passings of his teachers. Over the years, Pōhaku studied with seven different teachers, all of them women, most of whom had learned to weave between the ages of six and twelve.

Pōhaku’s kind of apprenticeship may also be a thing of the past.

Today, he estimates, fewer than 10 percent of Hawaiian families carry on the tradition. “When I learned,” he says, “I was one-on-one with my teachers. I went to their homes, became part of their family. You eat with them, weave with them. You grow up with them, their children, their great-grandchildren.” From his teachers he learned different hat styles, knots, and braiding; he says there are some techniques that fewer than five people still know how to do; few of their children carried on the family tradition.

Pōhaku bears a strong sense of responsibility not only to perpetuate the craft, but also to honor the individuality of each weaver. Each family has its signature style. “I can look at a hat and know who made it by the color of the lauhala used, the style of the weave, the pattern,” he says.

He teaches his students the name of each pattern and where it came from. Just as the kūpuna (elders) protected their own work by keeping some patterns within the family, he works to protect his own teachers.

“To know the history and knowledge behind a piece is greater than just copying a design.”

And his own style? Pōhaku says it’s all his teachers’ wrapped into one. After Western contact, lauhala artisans added modern hats, fans and other accessories. Hats are Pōhaku’s “canvas”—a way to keep ancient patterns alive.

NINA KUNA

Story by TEYA

PĹ?haku Kaho‘ohanohano sits on the floor of his Wailuku living room on a lauhala mat made in the 1940s, surrounded by hats and weaving molds.

NINA KUNA

Hawaiians wove lauhala into every aspect of daily life, twisting the long leaf strips into mats, baskets, sails, thatch, and other useful objects . . . and into items of adornment, as well, like these bird forms, destined to perch atop napkin rings at a wedding reception.

To know the history and knowledge behind a piece is greater than just copying a design.

Betsy Astronomo, of Kona, taught Pōhaku the triangle accent weave kalahale (rooftop) for this ‘ānoni (twotoned) hat made from two shades of lauhala.

Opposite: Pōhaku’s tools of the trade: koe (strippers) for different widths of weaving strips, and his invention for very narrow strips, rope-bound Popsicle sticks sandwiched with sharp blades.

Inset: Its long, bent leaves give the hala tree a spidery look.

NINA KUNA; INSET: FOREST & KIM STARR

Pōhaku is weaving together not only lauhala, but also community.

Eager to experience both the art and the lesson, I sign up for a class at the Luana Gardens in Kahului. “Bring scissors and a rag,” Pōhaku tells me over the phone, though he doesn’t say why. When I arrive, he shows me a pile of hala leaves he has collected for me. He deftly demonstrates how to trim the base of the leaf and then starts a narrow tear of the leaf margin. He runs his right thumb up the split, stripping off the thorny edge, and repeats the action on the other side. The leaf’s midrib also bears spikes; a vigorous rubbing with the wet rag helps prevent a reenactment of Pele’s first encounter with hala. He wipes the rag on both sides of the leaf to remove dirt and detritus. Some ten leaves and a few ragged nails later, I ask if I can start to weave. Pōhaku explains that he always starts new students with cleaning the material.

“If you don’t like the thorns and cleaning,” he says, “you shouldn’t be weaving.”

He sets me up for making a simple bracelet. Over the next hour and a half I fall into the easy rhythm of bending two thin koana (strips) of lauhala down, keeping three up, securing the checkerboard pattern into place by weaving another, lighter koana across and around the ring, followed by three strips down, two up. Once I get the knack of it, I can multitask and talk story with other students, who are tackling more complex bracelet designs, hats, mats and even bolo tie clasps. Students queue up to ask the everpatient Pōhaku for guidance at tricky transition points.

My finished product has flaws but I love both the look and feel of it and the rare, for me, experience of actually making something. Toward the end of the class, one student’s grandchildren arrive and it’s obvious that the other students know them. It seems that Pōhaku is weaving together not only lauhala, but also community, all while honoring and perpetuating the artistry of those who came before.

“I had a dream once,” he says, “that I was weaving a bamboo hat.” He told his teacher about the dream. She asked if he was weaving it on a wooden hat mold because usually bamboo hats were braided, not done like lauhala from the top on a mold. “Yeah, I was,” he said. “That was how your great-grandmother used to weave her family hats,” she told him, calling his great-grandmother by name. From his dream and his kumu Pōhaku found a way to learn from his own family of weavers.

“I love it,” he says of the craft, “because it’s part of my culture. I’m doing what my ancestors did. This is survival for me. It’s in my blood.”

An earlier version of this story appeared in the March/April 2013 issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine.

Pōhaku Kaho‘ohanohano

is among the weavers to be featured at Kauluhiwaolele Maui Fiber Arts Conference at Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, September 4–7, 2019.

For information on the conference’s classes, talks, displays, and craft fair, visit KBHMaui.com/hawaii-culture/weaving.

Fall/Winter 2019 -2020 47

global ENTRÉE ROCKsalt is just the ticket for a culinary journey around the world.

Story by

ALMA TASSI

PHOTO: MIEKO HORIKOSHI

M

y husband, Mikhail, was born in Kentucky, went to grade school in Greece, traipsed around Europe with his gypsy parents, and in his twenties lived first in London, then in Central Asia. I knew he’d make the perfect companion for exploring the “globally-inspired share plates” at the Sheraton Maui’s new ROCKsalt restaurant. When I told him about the concept, Mikhail eagerly replied, “Sign me up!”

ROCKsalt opened in June of 2018 with a menu that draws on the cuisines of Italy, Asia, Central and South America, then infuses them with fresh, local ingredients in shareable small plates and familystyle dishes. Executive Chef Lyndon Honda compares the experience to homey potlucks with friends—where the dishes vary with the nationality of the guests.

We ask to be seated outside, and are led to a table Left: Salty Parmesan overlooking the koi pond and palms dotting the resort shavings and bits of pancetta dress up property. The location is set back from the beach, giving these crispy Brussels us a perfect view for people watching, with Pu‘u Keka‘a sprouts. Sprinklings of sweet balsamic (a.k.a. “Black Rock”) in the distance. The sun is preparport reduction ing its descent, and we can hear the strains of a live guitar deliver a balanced, perfect bite. wafting from The Cliff Dive Bar nearby. Soon we’re greetFall/Winter 2019 -2020 49

The experience compares to a homey potluck with friends— where the dishes vary with the nationality of the guests.

As we savor our cocktails, Brown reveals the unifier among the different cultures represented on the menu: salt. She explains, “It’s been used as currency. Everyone seasons with it. It’s a preservative. And Hawai‘i has such wonderful options: red alaea salt, black lava salt, white sea salt.” Even some of the restaurant’s cocktails feature salt.

We notice someone lighting tiki torches, and realize it’s time for the Sheraton’s nightly cliff jump off Pu‘u Keka‘a. Leaving our seats, we walk toward the beach to take a look, joining the throng of resort guests.

The sounds of chanting and drum beats set the stage as a solitary figure in traditional attire sprints along the path, igniting the torches, one by one, on the rocky shoreline and up to the top of the rock. Building the

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF SHERATON MAUI RESORT & SPA

ed by Zac Coltes, the sous chef at ROCKsalt, along with Sarah Brown, the Sheraton Maui’s director of restaurant and bars.

Brown shares that, in May of 2018, she had the rare opportunity to create her own signature barrel of Bourbon, invited by Maker’s Mark in Kentucky. Her eyes light up as she says, “It’s like a chemistry set. You sit down and go through all the different kinds of wood you can put in your barrel to change the flavor.” We decide to give the Private Select Bourbon Ginger Julep a whirl. Created by Aaron Hinds, the Sheraton’s beverage manager, it is light and refreshing, highlighted with mint and Maui Brewing Company ginger beer.

Coltes recommends a few dishes, and we happily agree to try them.

50 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Opposite: Dine al fresco as the sun sinks into the Pacific.

Above: A host of island flavors captured in one spectacular dessert—half a pineapple topped with haupia gelato, coconut chips, and candied mac nuts with a side of local banana bread. Right: Kentucky with a splash of Maui. The Ginger Julep is made with ROCKsalt’s Private Select Bourbon, mint, and Maui Brewing Company ginger ale.

anticipation, he raises his arms slowly, then leaps elegantly into the water as we onlookers cheer.

When we return to our table, our small plates have arrived. Now it’s our turn to jump—from one international cuisine to another. First stop: Italy by way of Brussels. Flaked with Parmesan and bits of pancetta, the sprouts have been deep-fried with a sweet balsamic reduction that offsets any bitterness. My husband loathes Brussels sprouts, but after one bite, he declares, “Now that’s how you make a Brussels sprout taste good.”

We hop to Mexico with the next dish: street corn on the cob with tajin-spiced cilantro butter and a pungent Cotija cheese sprinkled on top.

Fall/Winter 2019 -2020 51

A solitary figure sprints along the path to the top of the rock, then leaps into the water as we onlookers cheer.

Then we’re off to Asia, with soy-glazed pork belly, kimchi, and cucumber wrapped perfectly in a pillowy bao bun. We also try the crab mac ’n’ cheese; with its smoked,gooey Gouda and herbed-crust topping, it’s a classic American comfort-food treat.

Uh-oh. We’ve barely made it through the small plates, and we’re both full. The thought of tackling family-sized share plates draws alarm. Luckily, Coltes has the kitchen prepare half portions for us. He recommends the “Mexican-approved” mole short rib, and his description is irresistible: “Twenty-eight ingredients with everything roasted, sautéed, and caramelized to gain the depth of flavor. The mole sauce is added to a honking, foot-long beef rib and cooked sous vide for eighteen hours at 180 degrees.” The lusciously tender meat is presented off the bone with tortillas and a rustic pico de gallo made with roasted, bursting cherry tomatoes, jalapeño, and onion. I could have had the succulent pico in a big bowl on its own.

Coltes calls the whole-roasted snapper his “favorite baby.” The locally caught fish is rubbed in a pesto-mac-nut spread and roasted in an Italian cioppino broth, along with clams, mussels, calamari, and Kaua‘i prawns. This impressive dish, enough to feed three or four people, arrives in a large pan drenched in a tasty tomato sauce. My husband raves about the sauce and I sample each delicious component before calling for mercy. I couldn’t fit another bite!

Although I want to try ROCKsalt’s signature half-pineapple dessert, I only have room to taste a trio of gelato. The light and bright liliko‘i, haupia and mango flavors, the quintessence of Hawai‘i, mark a delightful end to our culinary tour around the world.

ROCKsalt Maui | Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa | 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy.

808-921-4600 | RockSaltMaui.com

COURTESY OF SHERATON MAUI RESORT & SPA

A cliff diver reenacts a feat by Kahekili, Maui’s last chief, who proved his bravery by leaping from Pu‘u Keka‘a. It wasn’t the height that made the act fearsome, but the Hawaiian belief in the promontory as an ‘uhane lele, a place from which departed souls leapt into world of their ancestors— and from which a living soul might not return.

Fall/Winter 2019 -2020 53

IN THE KITCHEN

Above: Chef Jesse prepares housemade pappardelle pasta with locally grown cherry tomatoes and basil harvested from the hotel’s aquaponic garden.

Opposite, clockwise from top: New Yorkstyle pizzas are cooked to perfection in Pūlehu’s woodfired oven. Fresh campanelle pasta, sweet Kaua‘i prawns, puréed Maui-grown tomatoes, and a sea-bean garnish make the Kaua‘i prawn campanelle a perennial palate pleaser. Crispy on the outside and decadently soft on the inside, the risotto-crusted pesce is a longtime Pūlehu favorite.

THIS PAGE & OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT COURTESY OF THE WESTIN KĀ‘ANAPALI OCEAN RESORT VILLAS; ALL OTHERS: J. ANTHONY MARTINEZ PHOTOGRAPHY

WITH JESSE PITA, CHEF DE CUISINE AT PŪLEHU, AN ITALIAN GRILL

Story by SARAH RUPPENTHAL

WHEN CHEF JESSE PITA SAYS HIS CHICKEN CACCIATORE IS JUST LIKE GRANDMA USED TO MAKE, HE MEANS IT.

At The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, Jesse has recreated many of his late grandmother’s homemade recipes by taste. “She didn’t write all of them down,” he explains. “For instance, I never got her recipe for spaghetti and meatballs, but I remember what it tasted like, so I was able to replicate it.”

Jesse first flexed his culinary muscle in the kitchen of his childhood home in Port Washington, a suburb of Long Island, New York. There, he would help his grandmother prepare quintessential Italian meals (his family has roots in Southern Italy’s Apulia region). “She inspired me to cook,” he says. “It didn’t matter what she had in front of her—she could make anything taste good. It’s because of her that I fell in love with rustic Italian food at a very young age.”

He had a clear knack for cooking, but Jesse never considered a career as a chef until a guidance counselor sug-

gested he enroll in a culinary-arts vocational program during his senior year of high school. Jesse was hooked from day one. So much, in fact, that he headed off to the CIA (no, not that CIA—the Culinary Institute of America) after high school and started on the path to chefdom. When it came time to apply for a summer internship, there were opportunities aplenty in New York, but Jesse was eager for a change of latitude.

So, when he was offered a position behind the line at I‘O restaurant in Lahaina, he pounced—and became irrevocably smitten with Maui’s natural beauty, laid-back vibe, and access to fresh fish and produce.

In 2007, Jesse returned to Maui with a CIA bachelor’s degree in

hand, and in the years that followed, proved his mettle as a sous chef in the kitchens of Pacific’O, Merriman’s Kapalua, and Auntie’s Kitchen at The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas. He dabbled in a variety of food genres, but says his true passion has always been Italian cooking. In 2012, he landed a job as a line cook at Pūlehu (which means “to broil”) and says it seemed as if the stars had aligned. “It was the first real Italian restaurant I’d ever worked at . . . and it felt like home,” he recalls. A year later, he stepped into the role of sous chef, and in 2017, chef de cuisine.

At Pūlehu, Jesse expresses both his Italian heritage and New York upbringing. (When he talks about food, you can detect a hint of an accent; he says it comes roaring back when he chats with guests from the Big Apple).

Since he took the helm of the kitchen, he’s been serving

up nostalgia-inducing fare like New York-style pizzas prepared in a wood-burning stone oven, veal osso buco, and his grandma’s classic lasagna. “I took some of the dishes I remember from home and scaled them up so they’d be restaurant quality,” he explains.

On Friday afternoons, Jesse steps out of the kitchen and into the dining room for The Westin Kā‘anapali’s Fire up the Fun chef demonstration. In this hour-long interactive cooking show (sans cameras), participants learn how to prepare two of Pūlehu’s dishes. “I’m not in the limelight very often, so it’s a lot of fun interacting with guests on that level,” Jesse says. “I enjoy sharing my passion for food . . . and hopefully inspiring others to be passionate about it, too.”

The restaurant is open for dinner Thursday through Sunday from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Call for reservations or to learn more about Fire up the Fun. Pūlehu, an Italian Grill | The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas 6 Kai Ala Drive | (808) 667-3254 | OpenTable.com Fall/Winter 2019 -2020 55

Cool Treats Story by BECKY SPEERE

Two scoops of yummy: Ululani’s Keiki Rainbow and Haleakala shave ice flavors.

Opposite page, clockwise from left: Ono Gelato’s Italian ice creams and sorbets? Say “Mmmm!” Mauka Makai’s Hibiscus Haupia is vegan and gluten-free. DIY at Yogurtland with self-serve frozen treats and toppings.

Tiki Terrace’s Banana Caramel Eruption is hedonistic heaven.

Repeat after me: “I love cake. I love ice cream. I love shave ice.

I love frozen yogurt and sorbet! I love chocolate!”

It felt good, didn’t it? The thought of cold, refreshing treats can bring a warm smile to even the chillest face.

And Kā‘anapali offers plenty of choices to elicit smiles and happy ‘ōpū (bellies).

Ono Gelato

LEFT: MIEKO HORIKOSHI; RIGHT: PHOTOS COURTESY OF RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

‘Ono is Hawaiian for “delicious.”

Gelato, of course, is Italian ice cream. Put them together, and you have the perfect frosty treat.

Krista and Tom Boyd dish up an ‘ono tiramisu gelato—blending decadent mascarpone (Italian cream cheese) with vanilla gelato, and adding layers of powdered dark cocoa to satisfy the chocoholic in you. For a dairy-free alternative, try a raspberry or pineapple sorbet. Delicious, in any language!

Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway, 808-868-2926.

Tiki Terrace Restaurant

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice Ululani’s “Haleakala” shave ice is named after Maui’s tallest mountain. Listed on the menu as a “favorite combination,” this dessert starts with a scoop of haupia (coconut dessert) ice cream that’s topped with finely shaved ice, then drizzled with homemade coconut syrup and dulce de leche. Or pick from a tempting array of fruit flavors like pineapple, liliko‘i, melon and strawberry. Ululani has a freeze to please every taste bud.

Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Drive, 808-661-1234

“Banana Caramel Eruption”— Executive Chef Tom Muramoto thought of all his favorite indulgences and put them together in one mind-blowing dessert: a warm fudge brownie with a heart of melted dark chocolate, crowned with smooth macadamia-nut ice cream and garnished with sweet ripe bananas floating in a banana/caramel sauce. It’s the perfect finish to a day at the beach. Kā‘anapali Beach

Yogurtland

Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Parkway, 808-667-0124

Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway, 808-661-9834

At Yogurtland in Whalers Village, you can take matters into your own hands. This cheery self-serve frozen-yogurt shop is stocked with a rainbow of flavors, plus toppings that range from sweetly sinful to downright healthy. Nondairy, sugar- and gluten-free options multiply the potential flavor combinations. Oh, the tasty possibilities!

Mauka Makai

In 2018, the readers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi voted Mauka Makai “Best New Restaurant” at the annual ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards. A year later, the eatery garnered more praise for “Best Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine,” a culinary style that highlights the Islands’ diverse ethnic flavors. No doubt their locally

inspired dessert menu helped earn that nod. Our favorite?

The vegan, gluten-free Hibiscus Haupia—vanilla-chia-seed pudding topped with coconut sorbet, hibiscus granite, and local edible flowers—gets our vote.

The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Parkway, 808-662-6400 Fall/Winter 2019 -2020 57

THE MAGAZINE FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE MAUI SUBSCRIBE.MAUIMAGAZINE.NET 844-808-MAUI (6284)

DINING GUIDE Fall /Winter 2019-2020

Fall/Winter 2019 -2020 59

DINING GUIDE Fall /Winter 2019-2020 | | | RR Reservations recommended

AUNTIE’S KITCHEN

The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas 667-3200 Enjoy breakfast (à la carte or buffet), lunch or dinner. Fresh fish dishes, plate lunches, and burgers mingle with other local fare.

Local Mixed Plate $–$$ BEACH WALK KAU KAU TO GO

Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club 667-1200 The perfect place for breakfast and lunchtime sandwiches, cold drinks, snacks, and salad entrées. Featuring pizza cucina (gluten-free option available) and local dishes.

Grab ’n’ Go $$

60 Kā‘anapali Magazine

CASTAWAY CAFÉ

Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas 661-9091 This beachfront restaurant serves an ocean view, casual fare with a local twist, and an award-winning wine list.

American $$ CHINA BOWL ASIAN CUISINE

Fairway Shops 661-0660 Cantonese, Mandarin and Szechwan dishes, plus local favorites like saimin and kau yuk. Dine in, take out, or have them deliver. Winner of Gecko Publishing’s Maui Choice Award for best Chinese cuisine.

Kid-friendly.

Chinese $

$ Average entrée under $15

$$ Under $25

CHOICE

Whalers Village 667-0585 Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are all made with fresh, local ingredients. Daily specials and an epic entrèe with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red pepper-sesame sauce.

American $ CJ’S DELI & DINER

Fairway Shops 667-0968 Specializing in comfort food that’s easy on the wallet, CJ’s huge billboard menu features homemade meat loaf, deli sandwiches and burgers, alongside local favorites like

$$$ Under $40

| $$$$ $40+

loco moco, mochiko-chicken plate lunch, coconut prawns, and mahimahi with lemoncaper sauce. Kid-friendly.

American $ CLIFF DIVE GRILL

Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa 661-0031 Cozy up to the bar—voted 2015 Silver ‘Aipono Award winner for Best Bar by the readers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine—and enjoy chicken wings and classics like burgers, sandwiches and tacos.

Sunset entertainment is like no other: torch lighting followed by a cliff diver’s leap from Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock). $$

Casual Elegance, Majestic Views, Uniquely Cool

ROOFTOP DINING • EVERYDAY HAPPY HOUR FROM 2-5PM • NIGHTLY ENTERTAINMENT

FLEETWOOD’S ON FRONT ST. 744 front St. (808) 669-MICK • FLEETWOODSONFRONTST.COM

DINING GUIDE Fall /Winter 2019-2020 | | | RR Reservations recommended

DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC LŪ‘AU

Hyatt Regency Maui 667-4727 Immerse yourself in an evening of Polynesian culture.

Enjoy authentic song and dance (including a three-man Samoan fire-knife dance), an all-you-can-eat buffet of island specialties, Polynesian arts and crafts, hula lesson, and an island-wear fashion show at this production

voted Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s Silver ‘Aipono Award winner for Best Lū‘au three years running.

Kid-friendly.

Lū‘au, RR $$$$ FOOD COURT

Whalers Village Refresh and recharge at this fast-food emporium featuring Joey’s Kitchen, Nikki’s Pizza, Ohana Tacos, and Subway.

Kid-friendly.

Eclectic $

$ Average entrée under $15

HÄAGEN-DAZS ICE CREAM SHOP

Whalers Village 667-5377 Indulge in irresistible ice creams and sorbets, a decadent warmbrownies á la mode sundae, or a signature Dazzler frozen dessert. Kid-friendly.

Treats $ HANK’S HAUTE DOGS

Sheraton Maui Man bites dog! Man says,

HAWAIʻI–INSPIRED

FILIPINO ASIAN CUISINE SHORT RIBS - HASH LOCO MOCO - MAUI CATTLE COMPANY BURGERS - FISH TACOS FRESH POKE - CRISPY PORK LUMPIA ROLLS STIR FRY VEGETABLE PANCIT NOODLES

(808) 214- 5590 LOCATIONS AT

NAPILI PLAZA WHALER’S VILLAGE 62 Kā‘anapali Magazine

$$ Under $25

$$$ Under $40

| $$$$ $40+

“Delicious!” Located oceanside, this takeaway venue offers gourmet hot dogs, snacks and nonalcoholic refreshments.

American $ HONOLULU COFFEE

Hyatt Regency Maui 661-1234 Jump-start your day with a selection of coffees, freshbaked pastries, tropical-fruit smoothies and açai.

Coffee Shop $

HULA GRILL Whalers Village 667-6636 Winner of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s 2018 Silver ‘Aipono Award for “Best Shorts & Slippers Dining.” Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy live entertainment and casual fare. The open-air dining room offers unobstructed views, and dishes like fire-grilled ‘ahi steak. Kid-friendly.

Hawai‘i Regional $$–$$$

Discover the

BEST

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INU POOL BAR The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas 662-6400 Sip hand-crafted cocktails and local draft beers paired with bar bites like crispy buffalo tako (octopus), poke bowl, or beercan chicken. 2019 Silver ‘Aipono winner for Best Cocktails.

American, Hawai‘i Regional $$ ISLAND PRESS COFFEE Fairway Shops

TORY C A F RT in Maui Style!

667-2003 Maui-grown coffee, breakfast, sandwiches, beer, wine, ice cream and Maui-made kombucha, indoor/outdoor seating, free Wi-Fi. Coffee Shop $ ISLAND VINTAGE COFFEE Whalers Village 868-4081 Perk up with a cup of coffee, or fill up with a hearty selection

of açai bowls, sandwiches and salads.

Coffee Shop $ JAPENGO Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa 667-4727 Winner of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine‘s 2019 Gold ‘Aipono Awards for Best Sushi and for Restaurant of the Year.

Japengo’s world-class steaks, seafood and creative cocktails

DINING GUIDE Fall /Winter 2019-2020 | | | RR Reservations recommended

blend the flavors of the Pacific Rim with local ingredients. Dine indoors, outdoors, or in the chic Sushi Lounge. Live music.

Seasonal pairing dinners and special events.

Sushi, Pacific Rim, Asian RR $$$ JOEY’S KITCHEN Food Court, Whalers Village 868-4474 Food-court fare gets a gourmet upgrade with dishes like braised

short-rib pho atop house-made rice noodles, corn, and sweet Filipino peppers in a rich ginger beef broth.

Asian Fusion $ KĀ‘ANAPALI GRILLE & TAP ROOM Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club 667-7733 From the people who brought Cheeseburger in Paradise to Lahaina comes this venue serving burgers, sandwiches,

$ Average entrée under $15

$$ Under $25

pizzas and salads. Dinner adds steak, fresh fish and pasta.

Thirty wines under $30 a bottle.

American $–$$ KAI ALA MARKET The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas 662-2676 Purchase ready-to-cook items and sundries at this well-stocked grocery. Choose from an appealing selection of marinated meats, fresh

$$$ Under $40

| $$$$ $40+

vegetables, salads, and more.

It’s also a great place to pick up pastries, sandwiches, snacks, and beverages before you head off to explore the island.

Grab ‘n‘ Go $ LAHAINA PROVISION COMPANY Hyatt Residence Club Maui 662-1000 Choose from fresh pastries and other goodies, made-to-order sandwiches, salads and hot

www.lizzielahaina.com

SURF lessons SUP lessons

b o a rd re n ta l s CPR certified

(808) 661-2700 117 PRISON ST. LAHAINA, HI 96761

“ F U N F O R E N T I R E F A M I LY ” LAHAINASURFSHACK.COM 64 Kā‘anapali Magazine

foods, plus a fine selection of wines and fresh produce.

Grab ‘n‘ Go $ LEGENDS OF KĀ‘ANAPALI LŪ‘AU

Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel 667-0128 Lei Pono Productions tells the story of Kā‘anapali through hula and narration, culminating in a fire walk. The call of the conch gathers guests for a shell-lei greeting and welcome cocktail, followed by a feast of island fare prepared by award-winning chefs. May–September.

Lū‘au, RR $$$$ LEILANI’S ON THE BEACH

Whalers Village 661-4495 Snack on coconut shrimp, calamari, sashimi, burgers or fish tacos while enjoying the view of sparkling sands from the open-air Beachside Grill. Or dine on fire-grilled daily catch, herbroasted jidori chicken, or prime rib while overlooking the ocean.

Kid-friendly.

Steak, Seafood, RR $$–$$$ MAI TAI BAR

Sheraton Maui 661-0031 This beachside location at the foot of Pu‘u Keka‘a (“Black Rock”) offers poke bowls, sandwiches and salads 11 a.m.–4 p.m., and tropical cocktails like the classic Black Rock mai tai (light and dark rum, island fruit juices, and more than a splash of aloha).

American $$

MAUI GRILL KAANAPALI

2291 Kā‘anapali Pkwy.

667-6100 Multiple televisions make it easy to catch your favorite game, including NBA, NCAA, NFL and hockey. Late-night entertainment and drink specials throughout the week. At the entrance to Kā‘anapali Resort.

American $–$$ MAUI NUI LŪ‘AU AT BLACK ROCK

maui’s better with cocktails hula grill leilani’s on the beach monkeypod kitchen

Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa 877-HULA This oceanfront, all-you-can-eat buffet features such traditional island foods as slow-roasted kalua pork unearthed and presented fresh from the imu (underground oven), cultural arts and crafts and Polynesian entertainment. Kid-friendly.

Lū‘au, RR $$$$ MAUKA MAKAI

The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas 662-6400 Executive Chef Ikaika Manaku’s menu honors the farming and fishing cultures of old Hawai‘i with contemporary flair. Winner of the 2019 Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine. $$$$ MONKEYPOD KITCHEN

Whalers Village 878-6763 Locally sourced ingredients shine at this Peter Merriman venue that dishes up pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen.

beachfront shopping, dining and entertainment.

WHALERSVILLAGE.COM | 2435 Kaanapali Parkway, Lahaina, Maui

DINING GUIDE Fall /Winter 2019-2020 RR Reservations recommended

Their best-selling Monkeypod Mai Tai is topped with honeyliliko‘i (passion fruit) foam.

Winner of the 2019 Gold ‘Aipono Awards for Best Happy Hour, Best Vibe, and Best Bar. Hawai‘i Regional $$ THE MYTHS OF MAUI LŪ‘AU Royal Lahaina Resort 201-5590 As a brilliant sunset paint the sky, indulge your senses at Maui’s most popular and longestrunning oceanfront lū‘au. Feast on a traditional Hawaiian-style buffet and open bar while watching the tales of Hawai‘i, Tahiti and Samoa through music, song and dance, culminating with a breathtaking fire dance.

Nightly. Kid-friendly.

Lū‘au, RR $$$$ NIKKI’S PIZZA

Food Court, Whalers Village 667-0333 Fuel your day with a loaded pizza, hot meatball panini, pasta or gyros. Hearty breakfasts are served all day.

Italian, Pizza, Deli $–$$$ OHANA TACOS

Food Court, Whalers Village 661-4567 Treat your ‘ohana (family) to burritos, bowls and tacos filled with carne asada, carnitas, al pastor, birria, chicken or fish.

Salsas and guacamole are made fresh daily, and you can taste it in every bite.

Mexican $

66 Kā‘anapali Magazine

| $ Average entrée under $15 | $$ Under $25 | $$$ Under $40 | $$$$ $40+

PAILOLO BAR & GRILL

The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas 667-3200 Enjoy expansive ocean views and televised sports in an openair setting at this 2019 Silver ‘Aipono winner for Best Bar. Burgers, sandwiches, salads, chicken wings and more.

American $$ PAU HUAKA‘I TIKI BAR

Hyatt Residence Club Maui 662-1000 Watch the day melt into the ocean while master mixologists entertain you with libations. Full menu, including burgers, fish tacos, wraps and salads, till 8 p.m.; limited bar fare till 8 p.m.

American $ PŪLEHU, AN ITALIAN GRILL

The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas 667-3254 Chef Jesse Pita creates classic Italian fare with a fresh Maui twist. Winner of the 2019 Gold ‘Aipono for Best Wine List, Pūlehu is also the perfect place to enjoy risotto-crusted fresh catch, house-made lasagna, and tender rib eye.

Italian, RR OpenTable.com $$$ PU‘UKOLI‘I GENERAL STORE

The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas 667-3200 Carry-out baked goods, deli sandwiches, salads, marinated

meats for grilling, ice cream, and the store’s specialty: homemade pizzas.

American $ ROCKSALT

Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa 921-4600 Breakfast classics start the day.

At dinner, enjoy globally inspired creations such as dynamite ‘ahi poke, farm salad, steak, fish, and chicken.

American, Hawai‘i Regional $$$ ROUND TABLE PIZZA

ROYAL OCEAN TERRACE RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

Royal Lahaina Resort 661-9119 A traditional torch-lighting ceremony heralds the evening at this open-air casual restaurant that offers commanding views of the Pacific and the islands of Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i. Enjoy “broke da mouth” baked lobster mac-ncheese, or a fresh ‘ahi poke bowl, while a graceful hula dancer and solo musician perform Hawaiian classics. Kid-friendly.

Hawai‘i Regional $$

Fairway Shops 662-0777 Try local favorite Maui Zaui: ham, bacon, pineapple, Roma tomatoes, red and green onions, and three cheeses atop Polynesian-style red sauce.

Kid-friendly.

American $$

ROYAL SCOOP

ROY’S KĀ‘ANAPALI

Hyatt Regency Maui 667-4506 Overlooking a hidden lagoon and waterfall, Kā‘anapali’s premier steakhouse features the finest cuts, including filet mignon and prime New York strip. This finedining restaurant also offers fresh fish and lobster, plus an expansive wine list and full bar.

American, RR $$$$

Royal Kā‘anapali Golf Clubhouse 669-6999 Celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi rocks vibrant local fish and produce, preparing them with an Asian attention to detail. Roy’s blackened ‘ahi, and macadamia-nut-crusted mahimahi with lobster butter sauce, are menu standouts.

Save room for the awardwinning chocolate soufflé.

Hawai‘i Regional, RR. $$$

Royal Lahaina Resort 661-3611 Continental breakfast items, deli sandwiches, specialty coffees, frozen yogurt, and Maui’s own Roselani Ice Cream.

Treats $ SON’Z STEAKHOUSE

STARBUCKS

Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club 667-1200 Find all your favorite Starbucks offerings at this full-service store.

Coffee Shop $

SWAN COURT

Hyatt Regency Maui 661-1234 Start the day with a lavish breakfast buffet or à la carte selections of fresh, local flavors and traditional favorites, as swans glide by.

American $$ TEPPAN-YAKI DAN

Sheraton Maui 921-4600 A skillful chef prepares steak, lobster, shrimp, scallops, and fresh fish to perfection right before your eyes.

Japanese, Steak & Seafood, RR $$$ TIKI BAR & GRILL

Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel 667-0163 Munch on appetizers, salad, pizza, or a sandwich at this relaxed poolside venue.

American $ TIKI TERRACE RESTAURANT

Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel 667-0124 Fresh island seafood, juicy steaks and nightly specials.

Tiki Terrace is also the perfect vantage for watching the free nightly hula show. Or grab a light snack and a coffee drink to go. The Sunday brunch is legendary—and a winner of Maui Nō Ka ’Oi Magazine’s ‘Aipono Award for Best Brunch.

Kid-friendly.

Hawai‘i Regional $$

ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE

Hyatt Regency Maui 661–1234 Five-time ‘Aipono Gold winner for Best Shave Ice, Ululani’s elevates this local treat to gourmet proportions with fun add-ons, premium Roselani ice cream, and home-made, tropical-flavored syrups.

Treats $ ‘ŪMALU

Hyatt Regency Maui 661–1234 Head poolside for certified Angus beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past, and enjoy seasonal evening entertainment.

American, Pacific Rim $$

WHERE SHOWMANSHIP MEETS THE PLATE. Japanese cuisine, prepared tableside by our skilled chefs.

Taste flavors of the Far East, with dishes like garlic ginger fried rice, lobster batayaki, filet mignon & local catch paired with specialty sakes.

Open Tuesday - Saturday, seatings from 5:30 - 9 PM

WAILELE POLYNESIAN LŪ‘AU

The Westin Maui Resort & Spa 661-2992 This award-winning Polynesian dinner show features a real Fijian chief as host, dances and songs from Hawai‘i, Fiji, Tahiti, New Zealand and Samoa; and an extreme fire-knife dance finale.

Hawaiian buffet inclusive of drinks all evening. Kid-friendly.

Lū‘au, RR $$$$

FOR RESERVATIONS, CALL 808.921.4600 OR VISIT OPENTABLE

YOGURTLAND

Whalers Village 661-9834 Create your own frozen-yogurt concoction from myriad flavors and toppings. Kid-friendly.

Treats $

LOCATED AT SHERATON MAUI RESORT & SPA 2605 KA‘ANAPALI PARKWAY, LAHAINA, HI 96761 808.921.4600

Fall/Winter 2019 -2020 67

ROYAL treatments Pamper yourself like the king or queen you are at the Royal Lahaina Resort’s Alana Spa. Story by JOHN

GIORDANI | Photography by MIEKO HORIKOSHI

A salt-scented breeze and the whoosh of surf breaking on Kā‘anapali Beach add to the sensory delights of an al fresco massage.

It’s one of many appealing options at the Royal Lahaina’s Alana Spa.

’ll never turn down an opportunity to attend an event at a Kā‘anapali venue, even if it is for work. The moment I enter the lobby, I feel like I am on vacation, reveling in the hospitality that this island is famous for. I found myself in that enviable position again—this time at the Royal Lahaina Resort—when I attended the 2019 Maui Plein Air Painters Invitational afternoon Quick Draw and Art to Heart gala that evening. Looking to enhance my overnight staycation, I booked some treatments at the Royal Lahaina’s Alana Spa, which offers a wide menu of massages and other services. The facility doesn’t have waterenhanced experiences, but as you will read, I found that to be an asset during my body polish.

I chose a pair of hour-long treatments strategically: First, the Alana Signature massage to unwind my tense muscles. Then, the Aloha Body Polish to leave a smooth finish on my skin.

Upon entering the spa’s inviting lounge, I was greeted by Daniel Cunningham, who was to be my massage therapist. After offering refreshments, he led me to the treatment room. While I relaxed in the serenity of the space, he explained that the Alana Signature massage combines therapeutic techniques with a blend of essential oils and hot stones.

Danny left the room while I slipped out of my clothes, slid onto the massage table and under the covers. With my face planted in the head cradle, I murmured, “Okay.” Danny returned and quietly began waking up my body with vigorous rolling actions to my sides and back. The moment he started working the essential oils into my back with the perfect amount of pressure, I felt at ease. And about the time he incorporated the hot stones, I was so relaxed that my mind grew hazy, if not Fall/Winter 2019 -2020 69

ALANA SIGNATURE 60 min $150, 90 min $190 Therapeutic techniques, essential oils and hot stones combine to create a personalized massage experience.

blank from bliss. I do remember appreciating the and rum and we’d have a fine tropical drink. The attention paid to my feet, hands and underarms; I oil was creamy, light and moisturizing. The fine ALOHA BODY POLISH had not realized that they retained a fair amount 60 min $120 texture of the cocktail on my skin, sloughing off of tension. He kneaded my legs from hip to toe, This complete exfoliating the dead cells, was as satisfying as scratching an lulling me further. The hot stones focused his body treatment uses itch. In spas with wet facilities, I would hop in manipulations to a single moving spot, enhancoils and fine mineral salt or a shower and rinse off once the treatment was ing the pressure applied to my back muscles. The sugar crystals to massage complete. Instead, Karen placed warm, damp range of muscles he was able to soothe made this away impurities. towels on my freshly scrubbed limbs and let one of the best massages I have ever had. them sit there for a few seconds before wiping When it was all over, I reluctantly coaxed myself off the table. Back them clean. It felt like a mini sauna for each extremity. Aaaaaaah. Afin the lounge, Danny explained that what he does is a sort of dance beterward, my skin was so soft and hydrated, I felt totally renewed, and tween him and the guest’s musculature. He can feel what needs easing, stayed that way well into the next day. and tailors each treatment to the client’s needs.

If you are at the resort during a holiday, look for special discounts.

After that soothing experience I was ready to be invigorated with a I was there around Valentine’s Day and they were offering discounts for good scrub down. Enter Karen Parker, spa manager. We went into anpampering yourself and for couples. other treatment room, where she listed the various ingredients in the scrub she would be rubbing into my skin: hydrating coconut oil and Alana Spa | Royal Lahaina Resort | 2780 Keka‘a Drive, Kā‘anapali sugar crystals for exfoliation. I thought to myself, add some pineapple 808-661-3611 | RoyalLahaina.com/spa | Daily, 9 a.m.–6 p.m.

The Alana Signature blends traditional massage, Hawaiian lomilomi, and hot stones to relieve tight, achy muscles.

70 Kā‘anapali Magazine

The elements of massage and body scrub at Alana Spa: aromatic oils and hot stones to soothe the muscles; coconut oil and sugar to exfoliate the skin.

Fall/Winter 2019 -2020 71

Tips to Lower

Your Score

T

he Royal Kā‘anapali Course was designed more than fifty-five years ago by legendary golf architect Robert Trent Jones Sr. Over the years, this championshipcaliber layout has hosted such professional men’s and women’s tournaments as the LPGA Women’s Kemper Open, Champions Tour EMC Kā‘anapali Classic, and the Kā‘anapali Champions Skins Game. With its fast, undulating greens, long fairways and diabolical bunkers, the Royal Kā‘anapali has humbled the likes of Arnold Palmer, Jack Nicklaus, Nancy Lopez and Lee Trevino . . . and will challenge a new generation of champions when the Kā‘anapali Classic Collegiate Invitational returns October 31 through November 3, 2019. (See calendar on page 80 for more information.)

72 Kā‘anapali Magazine

The Kā‘anapali Kai Course is considered more forgiving, but that’s no guarantee you will break par. The Kai plays a bit shorter and features wide-open fairways that invite golfers to “grip it and rip it.”

Winding from sea level to the top of Kā‘anapali Resort, both courses offer stunning views of world-class hotels, multimillion-dollar homes and the neighboring islands of Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i. In the winter and spring, when the humpback whales return to Maui waters, there can be so many of the leviathans surfacing offshore that it’s hard not to be distracted by their antics.

Learning when and how to block out the enticement of island beauty is just one part of scoring low at Kā‘anapali. Here are few tips to help improve your “local knowledge.”

PHOTOS COURTESY OF KĀ‘ANAPALI GOLF COURSES

Kā‘anapali Golf Courses offer a pair of layouts to test both your mettle and your concentration.

Playing the Trade Winds

Playing golf in Hawai‘i often means teeing up in the wind.

Whether you end up navigating gentle breezes or challenging trades gusting over 30 mph, it is still a lot of fun.

Longtime Maui golfers learn that conquering the wind is as much about the mental challenge as the physical. As with so many other facets of island life, you just need to hang loose and go with the flow.

Courses are designed with the trade winds in mind.

Long holes are downwind; upwind holes are generally shorter and more forgiving. The worst thing a player can do is step up to a shot facing into the teeth of a strong wind and say, “I need to hit this shot really hard.” That’s a recipe for slicing a ball into the ocean or neighboring fairway. A helpful mantra to remember is, “When it’s breezy, swing easy.”

Play a windy day with a group of Kā‘anapali locals and it won’t be long before you’ll hear Opposite: Tackling the Royal’s #5 green them discussing whether it is a “two-club” wind at the Kā‘anapali or a “three-club” wind. Here’s what they mean: Classic Collegiate on a two-club day, the distance they’d usually Invitational.

Top right: Sunset cover with a five iron will require a three iron puts on a Royal light if the shot is upwind, a seven iron if the trade show, with Moloka‘i on the horizon. winds are at their back. Follow their lead, mainRight: Ashley Short tain your usual swing and adjust your club selecplays the Royal during the BMW tion to match the shot.

Golf Invitational.

If wind is just not your thing, call ahead for the earliest tee time possible. Trade winds generally pick up around 11 a.m. (This is also a good rule for beachgoing, whale watching, helicopter rides and anything else that is easier and more comfortable when conditions are calm.)

The Grain

While wind is a force golfers can easily feel, judging the grain of Hawai‘i’s greens is a riddle some players never solve. And that’s a shame, because it’s not so hard. A few simple tricks will help you shave strokes off your score.

Grain is caused by the direction the blades of grass grow. In Hawai‘i, grass generally grows toward the setting sun. Picture a hairbrush turned at an angle. If you run the palm of your hand against the bristles, you feel resistance. Stroke it in the direction the bristles are facing and they feel smooth. Now picture a million blades of grass either fighting your ball every inch of the way, or bent over and letting it build up speed. Add the fact that grain usually runs toward the downhill and with the wind, and you end up with lightning-quick downhill putts, uphill putts that die halfway to the hole, and sidehill benders that break three more feet than you expect.

At Kā‘anapali, it is a general rule that grain runs toward the ocean.

A more precise way to tell is to walk up to the cup and look straight down. There will be a semicircle “burn” mark of brownish grass growing on one side of the rim. That is the direction of the grain.

Be aggressive on putts into the grain. Aim for the back of the cup and rattle them home to eliminate break. On down-grain putts, factor in the additional speed and break, then apply a delicate touch. Don’t be afraid to read breaks of five or six feet on a twelve-foot putt, or you’ll find your ball settling below the hole on the amateur side of the cup.

Course Management

There are a lot of distractions out there competing for your attention at Kā‘anapali. When stepping up to the tee, take a moment to block out the ocean and mountain views, scantily clad people on the beach, sailboats and breaching whales, and find the hints the course designers incorporated to help you play the hole.

Nearly every green has a landing area to let you land your ball short and roll it on. “Pitch and run” is often a good call, and there is no shame in laying up short. Approach shots on these two courses are almost always better below the hole than above it. Putting or chipping into the grain and slope allows you to be aggressive.

Play It Forward is a campaign the PGA has been promoting to make golf more fun, and moving forward a tee box or two to make the course shorter certainly makes sense here. Some golfers feel the need to play from the tips (the back tees), to maximize the challenge and get the most for their dollar. If you have a game like Jack Nicklaus or Tom Watson, that’s not a bad plan. For the average golfer, however, it can be a sure way to shoot a round in the 100s, particularly on the Royal, which is a championship course and plays like one. By moving forward, golfers pick an appropriate challenge to suit their game. Both of Kā‘anapali’s courses have four tee boxes on each hole.

The main thing is to go out, hang loose and have fun!

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Capture Maui Moments

Matt Weiss grew up surfing along Maui’s shores.

Today he’s morphed that passion into a career in wave photography, delivering awe-inspiring photos from a waterman’s eye view. On land, he employs a medium called dye sublimation on aluminum, a modern alternative to acrylic, canvas, or matted prints. The result is vibrant imagery that puts you in the barrel of the wave. See his work at Matt Weiss Photography and Instant Metal Images at Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, where he also offers a more DIY approach to gallery-quality art. Bring any Smartphone photo into the gallery, and while you wait, Weiss will press it onto aluminum using dye sublimation. MattWeissPhotographyMaui.com

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UFO Parasail

LEFT: COURTESY OF UFO PARASAIL; THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: MATT WEISS PHOTOGRAPHY; JASON MOORE; WHALERS VILLAGE; SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS

Parasailing began during World War II as a means to search for enemy submarines. UFO Parasail president Greg VanderLaan, a graduate of the U.S. Merchant Marine Academy, helped turn it into fun. He developed technology that enables riders to take off from the back of a boat, rather than from a beach or dock—a contribution that earned him a Lifetime Achievement Award from the Water Sports Industry Association. In its thirty-plus years, UFO Parasail has elevated more than a million adventurers. Fly from 800 or 1,200 feet in the air, and enjoy the view as the birds do. Flights board from Kā‘anapali Beach fronting Whalers Village, and are offered mid-May to mid-December. UFOParasail.com

Sunshine Helicopters

If you’ve already explored Maui by land and sea, it’s time to head to the sky. Sunshine Helicopters can take you there, offering a perspective of Maui that few get to experience. Their six-passenger FX Star and Whisper Star helicopters offer unobstructed 180-degree views, personal headsets to communicate with your captain, and elevated rear seats for optimum viewing. Bonus: The folks at Sunshine Helicopters have been flying Hawai‘i’s skies since 1985, and their savvy pilots double as tour guides, sharing the history, culture, and ecology of the islands. Flights depart from Kahului Heliport. SunshineHelicopters.com

Whale Watch aboard Teralani

Maui’s beloved wintertime visitor arrives to much fanfare: festivals, educational talks, even a parade in honor of Hawai‘i’s humpback whales! Celebrate on a whale watch with Teralani Sailing Adventures, whose onboard naturalist will satisfy your every cetacean curiosity. Cruises depart Kā’anapali Beach (fronting Leilani’s restaurant in Whalers Village). Trips run December 15 through mid-April, and whale sightings are guaranteed during the height of the season, January though March. Visit Teralani.net.

Hop aboard the Resort Trolley

Outdoor Movie Nights

Let the free Kā‘anapali Trolley take you around the resort, while its old-fashioned design and open-air seating transport you to yesteryear.

The trolley runs 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, with stops at various hotels and condos, Whalers Village, Kā‘anapali Golf Courses, Fairway Shops and more. Find a schedule at KaanapaliResort. com/kaanapali-trolley.

Enjoy a good film and the great outdoors. Whalers Village hosts a free movie night every Tuesday and Thursday on the mall’s lower level. Show starts fifteen minutes after sunset. Bring a beach mat or low beach chair, blankets and snacks to enjoy a family-friendly screening under the stars. Check out the mall’s Facebook page for upcoming movie selections.

WhalersVillage.com.

Fall/Winter 2019 -2020 75

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Mermaid lessons

Ever felt like a fish out of water? Hyatt Regency Maui has a solution. Landlubbers can experience the life aquatic during a mermaid lesson at the hotel’s pool. Lessons are held Thursday mornings, and include use of a tail, an ocean-conservation lesson, storytelling, and mermaid swimming techniques. Digital, web-quality images will be provided at no extra charge. Advice for parents: Don’t let the kids have all the fun. Tails come in adult sizes, too. $129 per person. Reserve your spot at HawaiiMermaidAdventures.com.

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Sailing Lessons

LEFT: COURTESY OF HYATT REGENCY MAUI; THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: JASON MOORE; MAUI OCEAN CENTER, WHALERS VILLAGE; BLINNK PHOTOGRAPHY

Guests at Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas can hop aboard a Hobie catamaran for a one-hour adventure with sailing champion Captain Chuck Johnson. Reserve your spot at Aston’s Beach Activity Center, located on the property, or by calling 870-7308. The center also rents fun-inthe-sun toys like standup paddleboards and paddles, kayaking and snorkeling equipment, and underwater cameras.

AstonMauiKaanapaliVillas.com

Chef Demonstrations

If the way to your heart is through your stomach, this culinary series is for you.

Join a Fire up the Fun demo at The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, held on Fridays at 4 p.m., or The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, held on Thursdays at 4:30 p.m. Learn about island cuisine and cooking techniques, and treat your taste buds to samples of the chef’s favorite dishes, paired with a handcrafted cocktail.

Reservations: 667-3254

Discover the Island Next Door

Though just seven miles from Maui, Kaho‘olawe has a vastly different history. It was once a navigational training center for Hawaiians, and 800 archeological sites provide evidence that people lived, farmed, and worshiped there before Western contact. For decades, the U.S. Navy used the island for target practice, giving rise to a movement to end the bombings and restore Kaho‘olawe. Today the island is a model for cultural preservation. While access to it is limited, Maui Ocean Center’s interactive exhibit Kaho‘olawe: A Story of History and Healing shares the imagery and tales of Kaho’olawe with archival photography, historical newspaper clippings, and more. MauiOceanCenter.com

Tennis at Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch

Lei Making Classes at Lower Level Courtyard

Whether you can barely swing a racquet or have a backhand like Roger Federer, there’s a place for you at the Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch. Reserve individual lessons with the pros, or have them match you with a playing partner at your level. The ranch also offers lessons at the Sheraton Maui Tennis Club.

TennisMaui.com

Flower lei are synonymous with Hawai‘i. The ancient Polynesians wove leaves and flowers into ornaments of worship, a custom that evolved into a ritual of welcome or congratulation. Today you’ll see lei given to loved ones arriving at the airport, adorning hula dancers, or draped over a neighbor’s neck at a special occasion. Experience this island tradition during a free lei-making class at the Whale Pavilion in Whalers Village. Hour-long classes begin at 11 a.m. and noon on Tuesdays and Thursdays. WhalersVillage.com Fall/Winter 2019 -2020 77

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Go Pink at Hyatt Regency Maui

The folks at Hyatt Regency Maui are going pink—and you can, too. In honor of Breast Cancer Awareness Month in October, the hotel is offering myriad ways to join the cause and help raise donations for Susan G. Komen Hawaii. Activities take place August 30 through October 31, and include themed oceanfront cabanas for rent, created by Honolulu designer Jana Lam; food and specialty cocktail offerings at poolside eatery ‘Umalu; activities at Hyatt’s kids club; and more.

A golf event and group paddle round out the activities.

For details, see the calendar on page 80, or visit CrowdRise.com/PaddleForACure2019.

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Lahaina Pali Trail

LEFT: COURTESY OF HYATT REGENCY MAUI; THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: BOB BANGERTER; KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH HOTEL; KĀ‘ANAPALI GOLF COURSE; PAUL MORRIS PHOTOGRAPHY

This rugged hike is more than five miles long, lacks shade, and has enough uphill sections to set your calves on fire. But the challenge reaps major rewards, including unparalleled views of Molokini crater and Kaho‘olawe and Lāna‘i islands. In whale season, watch humpbacks playing offshore. The trail snakes along a cliff above Highway 30. (Cars aren’t visible on the hike.) Trailheads are near Mā‘alaea Harbor Shops on one end, and Ukumehame on the other. To do the entire hike, we suggest parking a car at each trailhead. For just a taste of the trail, park at one end, go half the distance you can comfortably hike, and return to your starting point. Either way, start early to avoid the intense midday heat. Details at HawaiiTrails.eHawaii.Gov.

Safe Snorkeling

The sport seems simple enough—don a mask and snorkel, glide into the ocean, and violà! The reality can be much trickier, especially for newbies. Ill-fitting gear and dangerous ocean conditions can turn a memorable day into a tragic one.

Fortunately, the folks at The Snorkel Store at the Fairway Shops can help. In addition to offering a range of ocean gear, their experts publish a Maui Snorkel Report that recommends the best spots, based on the day’s conditions. View the report at TheSnorkelStore.com, or register online to receive it in your inbox each morning.

Sip a mai tai

While many claim to serve “the best” mai tai, few have been perfecting their pour for more than five decades.

Dale Simonsen (a.k.a. “Uncle Dave”) has manned Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel’s Tiki Bar since 1969, and keeps his mai tai classic with rum, orange curaçao, sweet-and-sour mix, and pineapple juice. This popular watering hole boasts another claim to fame as Maui’s first outdoor beach bar. Open 10 a.m.–10 p.m. daily; happy hour 3–6 p.m. KBHMaui.com

Joey’s Kitchen

Golf Social

Loco moco is beloved island fare: white rice topped with a hamburger patty and fried egg, drenched in brown gravy. Chef Joey Macadangdang elevates the dish with a chopped-steak patty and onion gravy at breakfast, ground sirloin and shiitake-mushroom gravy for dinner.

Get a taste of local culture at Joey’s Kitchen in Whalers Village. JoeysKitchenHiMaui.com

Picture yourself outdoors, enjoying tropical drinks and pūpū (appetizers) as a DJ spins tunes and the sun dips low. This isn’t a Maui nightclub—it’s the driving range at Kā‘anapali Golf Courses. DRIVE is a monthly event that fuses golf with the fun of a night on the town. Lounges let up to ten friends socialize and take turns teeing off.

To reserve a lounge, contact Sutee Nitakorn, PGA director of golf, at SNitakorn@KaanapaliGolfCourses.com.

Fall/Winter 2019 -2020 79

AUGUST 31

Maui Channel Swim, Lāna‘i to Maui The Pacific Ocean sets the stage for this 9.5-mile relay across the sometimes-treacherous ‘Au‘au Channel. Race concludes on the sand fronting Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel. Come cheer the swimmers on!

MauiChannelSwim.com AUGUST 31–SEPTEMBER 1

Paddle for a Cure, Hyatt Regency Maui This fund raiser supports the nonprofit Susan G. Komen Hawaii’s mission to promote breast-cancer awareness and prevention. Sunday’s 5 p.m. memorial Paddle Out invites participants to gather on the beach fronting the Hyatt to honor those affected by breast cancer.

CrowdRise.com/PaddleForA Cure2019 SEPTEMBER 4–7

Kauluhiwaolele: Maui Fiber Arts Conference, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel Practitioners share their knowledge of creating traditional Hawaiian implements. Sign up for classes that will have you weaving lauhala (pandanus leaves) into various items, and ie‘ie vine into baskets, or knotting kōkō (net carrier) and ‘upena (fishnet). The hotel also hosts a craft fair, displays, presentations and auction.

Register at KBH.com.

For more information, contact Gayle Miyaguchi at 667-0219 or gmiyaguchi@kbhmaui.com.

80 Kā‘anapali Magazine

SEPTEMBER 25–29

High-Powered Doubles Tennis Camp, Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch Brothers Mike and Bob Bryan lead this intimate camp, joined by U.S. Davis Cup and Olympics coach Tom Gullikson, and other top doubles instructors. Open to players with a 3.5 to 5.0 rating. Travel packages include oceanfront accommodations at the Royal Lahaina Resort, a welcome reception, and daily breakfast and lunch.

For more information, or to reserve your spot, contact Cathy Nicoloff at 264-0752.

OCTOBER 11–13

Royal Lahaina Fall Classic, Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch The tourney includes men’s and women’s singles and doubles, 3.0–4.5 ratings and open levels.

RoyalLahainaTennisRanch.com OCTOBER 13

Maui Marathon, Ho‘okele St., Kahului, to Whalers Village This scenic marathon begins in Kahului and leads past ocean panoramas before ending at Whalers Village in Kā‘anapali.

Not ready for 26.2 miles? Sign up for the marathon relay, halfmarathon, 10K or 5K races.

The Westin Maui Resort & Spa hosts a Health & Fitness Expo, featuring shopping, entertainment and seminars, October 11, noon–5 p.m., and October 12, 9 a.m.–5 p.m.

MauiMarathonHawaii.com OCTOBER 31–NOVEMBER 3

Kā‘anapali Classic: Collegiate Invitational, Royal Kā‘anapali Course Hosted annually by Kā‘anapali Golf Courses and the University of Hawai‘i men’s golf team, this competition has welcomed top-ranked college teams and players, including 2018 PGA Tour Rookie of the Year Aaron Wise of Oregon. Walking spectators are welcome to catch the action: A team practice round begins with a shotgun start at noon on Thursday, followed by 54 holes of individual and team play that

commences with a shotgun start at 8:30 a.m. Friday and Saturday.

KaanapaliGolfCourses.com OCTOBER 18–20

Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival Two of Hawai‘i’s James Beard Award-winning chefs, Alan Wong and Roy Yamaguchi, join a Who’s Who of the culinary world in cooking demos, tastings and wine pairings. The festival kicks off Friday with Roy’s Golf Classic on the Royal Kā‘anapali Course, followed

by Wicked Cocktails, Wicket Plates—a dinner prepared by thirteen renowned chefs at Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa on Saturday. On Sunday, the Hyatt Regency Maui hosts Pasta la Vista, a six-course dinner prepared by chefs from Hawai‘i, California, and New York City.

HawaiiFoodAndWineFestival.com NOVEMBER 7–9

Hula o nā Keiki, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel Some of the finest young dancers compete in ancient and modern hula, chant, and costume. Though the event has grown, over the years, from a single-day affair to an entire weekend of Hawaiian arts and music, the objective remains the same—to educate children in the ways of Hawaiian kūpuna (ancestors) to carry the culture forward. The weekend also features demos,

workshops, and displays of Hawaiian arts and crafts, entertainment and more.

HulaONaKeiki.com DECEMBER, TBD

Gingerbread Village Lighting Ceremony, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa Christmas cheer will fill the air as the hotel’s whimsical Gingerbread Village comes to life in this beloved holiday tradition. Each year, the Sheraton partners with Big Brothers Big Sisters: “littles” and “bigs” create the gingerbread houses, and the hotel’s engineering team assembles the village, which goes on display at the resort for one and all to view.

Sheraton-Maui.com DECEMBER, TBD

Holiday Festivities, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas No snow? No problem! Each holiday season, The Westin offers its signature Elf Villa Visit, plus snow-globe making, ornament decorating, photos with Santa and more.

WestinKaanapali.com JANUARY 1, 2020

Hi‘uwai Cleansing Ceremony, Kaanapali Alii Resort Hawaiian cultural advisor Fred Torres leads this traditional seawater cleansing, beginning at 6 a.m. on the beach fronting Kaanapali Alii. (See story on page 22.)

KaanapaliAlii.com

MAUI MARATHON

KĀ‘ANAPALI events

AUGUST 30

DRIVE for a Cure In honor of Breast Cancer Awareness Month, Kā‘anapali Golf Courses hosts an event that fuses golf with all the swank of a night out on the town. It features ten lounges, each accommodating up to ten friends for socializing and genial competition: choosing teams and taking turns teeing off toward targets. 5–7 p.m.

CrowdRise.com/PaddleForA Cure2019

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808.667.5400

WWW.STARNOODLE.COM

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808.667.5400

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MAUI events

THROUGH AUGUST 21

First Nations Art of British Columbia, Maui Arts & Cultural Center, One Cameron Way, Kahului View works by Native American artists who are blending traditional practices with unique interpretations and technical excellence.

242-7469; MauiArts.org SEPTEMBER 7

Lā ‘Ulu (Breadfruit Day), Maui Nui Botanical Gardens, 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului This annual ‘ulu (breadfruit) festival includes live entertainment, ‘ulu cooking demonstrations, Hawaiian cultural activities and a plant sale. Admission is free.

10 a.m.–3 p.m. 249-2798; mnbg.org SEPTEMBER 13–NOVEMBER 8

Mālama Wao Akua, Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center, 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao The

Hui and East Maui Watershed Partnership collaborate on this multimedia juried exhibition to raise awareness about the importance of protecting native species and the forested upper regions of our islands’ watersheds.

572-6560; HuiNoeau.com SEPTEMBER 14

Chinese Moon Festival, Wo Hing Museum, 858 Front St., Lahaina Celebrate Maui’s agricultural harvest—and rich cultural history—during a traditional Chinese Moon Festival.

Sample Chinese tea and moon cakes, and explore lantern making, calligraphy, music and more. Museum hours are 10 a.m.–8 p.m. Moon Festival activities are 5–9 p.m.

661-3262; Lahaina Restoration.org SEPTEMBER 29

Maui ‘Ukulele Festival,

A&B Amphitheater, Maui Arts & Cultural Center, One Cameron Way, Kahului Hawai‘i’s beloved stringed instrument has found its way into the hearts of folks around the world. Relax in this open-air setting and enjoy a free concert by acclaimed musicians, plus ‘ukulele door prizes, arts and crafts, and island foods for purchase. 1–6 p.m. 242-7469; MauiArts.org OCTOBER 3–6

Maui Fair, War Memorial Complex, 700 Halia Nakoa St., Wailuku Bring the whole family to one of Maui’s oldest and best-loved traditions, featuring favorite local foods, entertainment, midway rides and games, livestock, horticulture, crafts and more.

MauiFair.com OCTOBER 31

Halloween in Lahaina Front

Street closes to vehicular traffic as ghost, goblins and other masked partygoers come out for a night of ghoulish fun.

VisitLahaina.com NOVEMBER 2

Made in Maui County Festival, Maui Arts & Cultural Center, One Cameron Way, Kahului This popular festival highlights some of the best products Maui County has to offer— from specialty foods and fresh produce to jewelry and collectibles—all in one convenient outdoor venue.

Activities include product demonstrations, a fashion show, prize drawings and more. 8 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Arrive early for the best selection, or purchase tickets for the advance shopping day on November 1, 1:30–6 p.m.

MadeInMauiCountyFestival.com NOVEMBER 25–27

Maui Jim Maui Invitational, Lahaina Civic Center, 1840 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Lahaina Top collegiate teams battle it out at this popular event that’s been giving basketball fans something extra to celebrate on Thanksgiving weekend since 1984.

MauiInvitational.com

JANUARY 1–5, 2020

Sentry Tournament of Champions, The Plantation Course, Kapalua The season opener for the 2020 PGA Tour features a winners-only format of 2019 champions.

PGATour.com 82 Kā‘anapali Magazine

FIRST NATIONS ART PHOTO BY PAUL MORRIS

DECEMBER 7

Wreath Making with Native Plants, Maui Nui Botanical Gardens, 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului Besides food and wildlife habitat, native plants provide great beauty throughout the year. Learn how to braid them into a holiday wreath with Maui Nui Botanical Gardens’ executive director Tamara Sherrill.

Reservations: 249-2798 or info@MNBG.org; mnbg.org

Three unique experiences ONE PERFECT PARADISE

NO RESORT FEES

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Your dream vacation awaits on the spectacular shores of Kaanapali Beach, under swaying palms at Coconut Grove, or atop lava-lined Kona coasts. With our suite of distinctive properties on Maui, Kauai, and Hawaii Island, you'll experience stunning views, prime locations and authentic Hawaiian hospitality no matter where you go.

Distinctive Properties, Island Values.

For reservations, call 800-22-ALOHA or visit HawaiianHotels.com.