Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine Sep-Oct 2016

RESORT REPORT YOUR GUIDE TO THE BEST

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features

28 » adventure

ABOVE AND BEYOND Champion waterman Kai Lenny is changing the standup paddleboard industry with breakneck speed.

Story by Lehia Apana

34 » island business

KAONOULU’S PEDIGREE A hundred years after its founding, this Maui ranch’s lineage runs deep.

Story by Jill Engledow

42 » hawaiian soul

GROUNDED IN CULTURE The people of old Hawai‘i were deeply rooted in nature. Thanks to places like Maui Nui Botanical Gardens, they still can be.

Text by Judy Edwards

50 » island style

SHIRT STORIES From vintage prints to aloha apparel, surf books to slippahs, this collection speaks volumes.

Compiled by Conn Brattain

56 » maui style

RESORT REPORT A look at what’s new and novel— whatever type of traveler you are.

Compiled by Lehia Apana

Liquid asset: A splashy new pool is part of Four Seasons Lāna‘i’s $75 million renovation. Our report on what’s new at Maui resorts starts on page 56. Dive in.

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about our cover

Maui’s Kai Lenny is a world- champion standup paddler. His latest passion: developing the first self-powered paddleboard hydrofoil.

Photo by Franck Berthout.

See story on page 28.

FOUR SEASONS LANA‘I/ROBERT PASCUA

68 » at home

ISLAND OASIS A homeowner/tree farmer brings back green acres to a dry Lahaina hillside.

Story by Heidi Pool

©2016 CHANEL®, Inc. J 12®

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departments

14 » contributors It takes a lot of talents to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

16 » publisher’s note

By Diane Haynes Woodburn

18 » talk story Fresh off the coconut wireless ~ By Kyle Ellison, Heidi Pool & Shannon Wianecki

26 » great finds LEISURE SUITS YOU Your first resort: Find the fun stuff.

Compiled by Conn Brattain

108 » calendar of events What’s happening where, when, and with whom

112 » who’s who Seen making the scene on Maui

114 » looking back

Has our dining editor finally cracked?

See story on page 90.

Photo by Tori Speere

NEXT-DOOR NEIGHBORS Some of our favorite stories happen an island-hop away.

« DINING » 84 » dining feature SHARING TRADITION In Hawaiian, ka‘ana means to share. In Manhattan, it meant rave reviews.

Story by Becky Speere

THIS ISSUE ONLINE

Web-exclusive content at MauiMagazine.net (available in September)

WANT A LIFT? Watch Kai Lenny hydrofoil successive waves in Fiji—staying airborne the whole time. Catch the video at MauiMagazine.net/foil-sup.

USE YOUR NUT. Learn the many ways native Hawaiians employed the versatile kukui at MauiMagazine.net/nutty-chef.

CLOTHES ENCOUNTER: Our fashion story couldn’t fit all the great aloha shirts we found . . . but you can see them at MauiMagazine.net/shirt-stories.

THIS JUST IN! Visit our online calendar for the latest on what’s happening around Maui County. MauiMagazine.net/maui-events AND THE WINNERS ARE... Penny Jo Putman of Wailuku, who voted for her favorite dish at the 2016 Kapalua Wine & Food Festival’s Seafood Festival finale. Penny’s ballot was picked in a random drawing, and she will receive two tickets to next year’s Seafood Festival. Congratulations, too, to James Moon of Hāna, who won our Film Festival Giveaway prize: two Celestial Cinema passes and entry to the VIP Soirée at Spago at the 2016 Maui Film Festival.

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90 » becky's backyard THE NUTTY CHEF We get to the meat of kukui, macadamia nuts and Malabar chestnuts. Story by Becky Speere

94 » Chef’s Kitchen TORO! TORO! TORO! Morimoto’s Executive Chef Greg Harrison won top honors at the Kapalua Wine & Food Festival with his tuna tartare. Here’s how to make it.

Story by Becky Speere

96 » maui mixology RYE THOUGHTS Catch these cocktail recipes from Ka‘ana Kitchen and Taverna. Story by Becky Speere

98 » dining guide A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island

Call to learn more about the Healing Waters of Maui™ Inspired by artist Ingre’s painting, ‘The Grand Odalisque’

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There’s a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is indeed the best.” We hope you think so, too.

How do you staycation?

FIRSET TIM !

EVER

PUBLISHER Diane Haynes Woodburn SENIOR EDITOR Rita Goldman

I’m with Emily Dickenson: “There is no frigate like a book to take us lands away”—especially when you can read it in a cabana at the Four Season’s adult pool.—Rita Goldman

MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana DINING EDITOR Becky Speere ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER John Giordani STYLE EDITOR Conn Brattain WEBSITE MANAGER

My favorite staycation is to go camping in Kīpahulu.

Camping is free with a Hawai‘i State Parks pass, and exploring the natural beauty of the area is a perfect getaway.

—Adelle Lennox

Adelle Lennox

ASSISTANT DESIGNER Shelby Lynch EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Jose Morales CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Judy Edwards, Kyle Ellison, Jill Engledow, Heidi Pool, Shannon Wianecki CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

100% Extra Virgin Maui Olive Oil Unfiltered, cold pressed Grown & hand harvested on Haleakala¯, Maui Artisanal processing Limited inventory, almost sold out!

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For me, the perfect staycation involves going on a different hike every day: Pipiwai Trail in Kīpahulu, Waihe‘e Ridge near Kahakuloa, Mahana Ridge Trail in Kapalua, and the Makawao Forest Reserve. . . .

The chance to be outside in the fresh air is a welcome departure from sitting in front of a computer all day.

—Heidi Pool

Bob Bangerter, Franck Berthout, Conn Brattain, Kyle Ellison, Naim Ferguson, Ben Ferrari, Tony Harrington, Elizabeth Higashino, Mieko Horikoshi, Anna Kim, Nina Kuna, Shelby Lynch, Tamara McKay, Tony Novak-Clifford, Travis Rowan, Tom Servais, Ryan Siphers, Tori Speere, Clay Williams

My version of a staycation involves a lot of morning yoga, gardening, grilling, going to the beach to swim and lay in the sun, and enjoying the west side sunsets over cocktails and poke.—Ben Ferrari

CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION

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Subscription inquiries toll free: 844-808-MAUI (6284) or visit Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net NATIONAL MagNet, Disticor Magazine Distribution Services

Mini-breaks, like stopping for a swim before I go home from a research or business appointment.—Jill Engledow

HAWAI‘I MagNet INROOM Maui Circulation E-MAIL ADDRESS Info@MauiMagazine.net MOVING? Send address changes to Haynes Publishing Group, P.O. Box 3942, Lacey, WA 98509-3942. Please note: If the post office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, Haynes Publishing has no further obligation, unless we receive a corrected address within one year of that notification.

The Grand Wailea is a great place for the whole family.—Ryan Siphers

I love to staycation with my family at the Fairmont Kea Lani or the Grand Wailea when they offer kama‘āina rates [for Hawai‘i residents]. They have a perfect setup for families with kids!

—Laura Lewark

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, Eating & Drinking, & The Shops at Wailea magazines 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; 808-242-8331. ISSN 2473-5299 (print)| ISSN 2473-5469 (online) ©2016 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly U.S. subscriptions $21; Canadian subscriptions $29; foreign subscriptions $40. Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi—an environmental leader in the industry whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

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publisher’s note Up and Away In celebration of our twentieth anniversary, we have been sharing some of our favorite stories from the archives. I wrote this while on vacation with my husband in 2008. I had been trying to craft something professional and publisher-like, with no success. “Just have fun with it,” our senior editor, Rita Goldman, encouraged. “Tell us a story.” Since then I’ve been writing these small letters to you, as I would to a close friend, sharing the simple pleasures of life with gratitude and laughter. It has been my privilege and I thank you (and Rita) for laughing along with me.

“Look at that!” I exclaimed to my two sisters-in-law. A cloud of dirt and rubble had risen from nowhere, a few hundred yards away. We were sitting happily in the shade of a big green umbrella, waiting for our table at a popular mountain lunch spot. Gorgeous views, sunshine, fresh air . . . how lucky were we? Our husbands, brothers all, had planned this wonderful reunion at Deer Valley to celebrate their birthdays, the sixtieth for twins Jamie and Jeff, sixty-fifth for Scott. Today the boys had gone fishing, and we girls chose to hike and lunch at the top of the world.

“Wow!” Elaine responded. “What is that?” The whirling dust cloud had grown in size and force, uprooting chairs and wooden umbrellas and flinging them into the air like Pick-Up Sticks.

“Thank goodness it’s not near anyone,” I said, feeling awed, but also safely far from harm’s way. Then another gust came—this one closer. It was headed straight for us.

“Holy cow!” I thought. “If this umbrella goes, it could kill someone.” Small, mature female to the rescue! I jumped from my seat, planted my feet firmly on the umbrella’s steel base and held tight to the wooden pole. Wouldn’t Wonder Woman do the same? But no, it wasn’t Wonder Woman I was emulating. It was Mary Poppins. Up, up and away! The wind came up and so did I—still holding the pole. Umbrella and I were airborne. This wasn’t the lunch (er, launch?) I had planned.

“Let it go!” I heard a voice of reason yell. Good advice, I thought, midair, and loosened my death grip. Klumph! It was a rather undignified end to a short but thrilling ride. I crash-landed on top of the umbrella’s rolling steel base, obtaining some rather impressive bruises and lumps. Yards away, Andrea (other sister-in-law) tried a similar feat of heroism to save a dog from umbrella impalement. She broke her toe. Elaine hailed help.

There was a fuss, of course, some ice, and most important, a lot of drama. We had, after all, saved civilization (well, at least a dog). A glass of wine (or two) and a wonderful lunch proved a brilliant antidote for our bumps and bruises. Best of all, we have a story that will last us into our dotage.

Wherever we go, however long it’s been since we’ve seen one another, it’s the stories of our lives that knit families and friends together. And there are no better stories than tales of travel shared with the people we love.

This issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi brings you lots of fuel for your next adventures, including our annual Resort Report. Whether you are a visitor or a resident planning a staycation, you’ll find this issue packed with fodder for memories.

Travel is a panacea for the soul. It opens us to new environments, offers new perspectives, asks us to be adventurous—and just a little vulnerable. Heroic rewards await when we let ourselves be lifted out of our comfort zones—even if it’s for a short umbrella ride.

Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

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NINA KUNA

A hui hou,

talk story

Photography by Ben Ferrari

Fresh off the coconut wireless

ARTIST ON LOCATION

Point Man Standing in his Launiupoko woodshop, surrounded by sawdust and tools, Jake Ramey reflects on the question I’ve just asked: What’s the best part of crafting custom spearguns? Sure, there’s the creative process, and the satisfaction of making something with your hands, but he settles on something much more personal: “I know every person who shoots my guns—and that’s kind of cool.”

Very cool, considering Ramey has shaped 150 spearguns since 2006.

“I’m able to live vicariously,” he continues, “through a lot of different people. I get pictures from around the world, and there’s a lot of pride in [knowing] that these guys are using something I built.”

Born in Po‘ipū, Kaua‘i, Ramey relocated to Maui in his senior year of high school, right about the time he began to immerse himself in hunting fish underwater. As the dives got deeper, and the fish got bigger, he began to experiment with designing his own gun, and took down a yellowfin tuna— the largest fish of his life.

Soon friends wanted him to make them one, and then friends of friends, as word of these wooden spearguns rippled through the dive community.

Scouring dive forums for ideas, Ramey began making guns of Italian and Croatian design, as well as hefty tuna

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Sep–Oct 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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WHLR-31361_4-64x4-785.indd 1

guns with six powerful, five-eighths-inch bands that pack 480 pounds of force.

He expanded his offerings, experimenting with teak versus koa, and fitting some guns with carbon-fiber tubes to increase their rigidity and use seawater as ballast.

He recycles fishing lead he finds on the reef and uses it to balance the weight, and while most of his guns feature an image of fish such as uku (snapper), ono (mackerel), or ‘ahi (tuna), Ramey stresses function over form. “First, it has to be a good speargun, and pretty to look at second.”

Nevertheless, “another goal is to keep creating,” which is why some guns he’s built have full koa handles and eighty-inch abalone inlays, or images of ‘iwa birds that remind Ramey of “special times, riding out storms or finding big fish.” Ramey remembers walking outside in 1992, during Hurricane ‘Iniki, as the eye passed over Po‘ipū, and staring up at a patch of blue sky where “what seemed like a thousand” ‘iwa birds were circling overhead.

It’s these human touches that separate Ramey’s from a standard-production speargun.

7/18/16 9:15 AM

BEN FERRARI

shopping barefoot

Some of the world’s most sought-after spearguns are made here in Launiupoko, just south of Lahaina town, where Jake Ramey still creates them by hand, capping each with an artisan’s touch.

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Ramey’s spearguns pack the force to take down a 100-pound fish, and each comes with a personalized inlay.

JAKE RAMEY

“Spearfishing is meditative,” he says, “just being out in the water. It’s quiet and loud at the same time, and really the most archaic form of fishing—you’re in their environment.”

While Ramey isn’t there for every fish that’s caught with a Ramey Customs speargun, “I still have a personal connection to that fish, because it was hours and hours of my time. To put that in someone else’s hands, and their getting to pull the trigger, it’s pretty cool to share in that excitement.”—Kyle Ellison Find more information and photos of Jake’s spearguns and other woodwork at Ramey Customs.com and @rameycustoms.

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Sep–Oct 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Photo by Nina Kuna

talk story

IN SEASON

Cliff-dwelling Cabbages Some thirteen million years ago, a lone lobelia found its way to the Hawaiian Islands. In one of the world’s greatest instances of adaptive radiation, this leafy pioneer evolved into more than 125 distinct species, including two unusual looking shrubs: Brighamia insignis and Brighamia rockii. Both have short, bulbous stems topped by a rosette of wide, leathery leaves. B. insignis belongs to the islands of Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau and has creamy yellow flowers, while B. rockii is endemic to Maui, Lāna‘i, and Moloka‘i, and has white blooms. They’re named after William Tufts Brigham, the first director of Honolulu’s hallowed Bishop Museum, though the plants are better described by their shared nickname: cabbage on a stick.

Botanists have gone to great lengths for these rare “cabbages,” which grow in the remotest of regions: Hawai‘i’s windswept sea cliffs and offshore islets. Both species are critically endangered, thanks to introduced goats, rats, spider mites and slugs that nibble the plants’ leaves. Their native

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pollinator—a long-tongued hawk moth—is either extremely rare or extinct. So scientists do the moth’s work, rappelling 1,000 feet to hand-pollinate flowers and collect seeds. Despite these heroics, Hurricane Iniki nearly wiped out B. insignis; a single wild plant currently survives on Kaua‘i. B. rockii has fared little better. Small populations persist on Moloka‘i, on the steep ridges above Kalaupapa and Hālawa and on the tiny islet of Huelo off the sea cliffs on Moloka‘i’s north shore.

Luckily, the cliff dwellers are easy to propagate. The daringly collected seeds were dispersed to gardeners worldwide, and fall is the time to find their flowers. From September to November, star-shaped blossoms emerge, releasing a marvelous perfume reminiscent of violets or honeysuckle. To catch a whiff of this rare bloom, visit Maui Nui Botanical Gardens (mnbg. org) in Kahului. Better yet—purchase one of your own from Ho‘olawa Farms (HoolawaFarms.com) or Maui Native Nursery (MauiNativeNursery.com).—Shannon Wianecki

presents the

‘aipono wine dinner series The ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series brings you fine wines paired with superb cuisine. Proceeds from this dinner will benefit Maui Food Innovation Center.

To sign up for the ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series mailing list, visit MauiMagazine.net or call 808.242.8331.

An exquisite wine showcase created by Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants

DRINK | LEARN | EAT | SUPPORT The next wine dinner will be hosted by:

Friday, October 7 Reception: 6pm Dinner: 6:30pm Cliff House Montage Kapalua Bay One Bay Drive, Lahaina Call for reservations: 662-6681 For the menu, visit MauiMagazine.net/AiponoDinners $275 per person, plus tax & gratuity A portion from each dinner goes to Maui Food Innovation Center

The theme for the evening will be: Join us for a rare opportunity to savor distinctive artisan wines from Kistler Vineyards, presented by Master of Wine Geoff Labitzke. This highly respected winery has been producing fine chardonnay and pinot noir for over thirty years, using Old World techniques. “If the Kistler Winery could be magically transported to the middle of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, it would quickly gain a reputation as glorious as any producer of Burgundy grand crus.”— Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate.

Chef David Viviano, Montage Kapalua Bay Executive Chef David Viviano came to Maui from the St. Regis Aspen Resort & Spa, where he oversaw the resort’s culinary operations, created an impressive sustainability program, and was featured in Wine Spectator and Forbes.

He worked at the James Beard Award-winning restaurant Jardiniére in San Francisco and is likely the only Maui chef ever to have won the Aspen Mac-n-Cheese Festival.

The Maui Food Innovation Center, beneficiary of tonight’s dinner, is delighted to showcase Maui’s talented new food entrepreneurs. Chef David Viviano will incorporate their local products as key ingredients in this evening’s special menu.

talk story

DAY IN THE LIFE

Saying “I do”? Give her a ring.

NAME: Carolee Higashino TITLE: President, White Orchid Wedding WHAT’S THE PLAN? Carolee Higashino founded White Orchid Wedding twenty-six years ago, before the term “destination wedding” had even been coined. Nowadays, she oversees romantic events on all of the Hawaiian Islands.

Planning can include everything from establishing a budget and recommending a photographer, florist, and officiant; to providing advice on beach-wedding attire; to running to the store to replace a lost tube of lipstick; to calming wedding-day jitters. “Every day is different,” Carolee says. “One day I’m spray-painting candlesticks, and the next I’m climbing aboard a helicopter to check out a remote waterfall for clients who want to exchange nuptials in an exotic location.”

“I DO” IT YOUR WAY: Carolee says sunrise weddings at Haleakalā National Park have recently become

popular. “But no one believes us when we tell them how cold it is up there.” So Carolee and her crew bundle the blissful bride and groom in down jackets over their wedding attire, take them into the visitor’s center for a brief warming period, then head outside for the ceremony. “The couple remove their jackets, and we take pictures before everyone freezes to death,” she laughs. Recently, a couple asked for a “Glamour Goth” wedding with a red-and-black color scheme. “At the reception, the groom pulled a switchblade out of his sock to cut the cake, which was decorated to simulate blood dripping down the side.”

AND THE BRIDE WORE . . .

NOTHING: Perhaps the most unconventional wedding she has ever arranged was one where the bride and groom were married in the nude. “I hired a limousine to transport them from their hotel to a private home in Mākena for the ceremony,” Carolee recalls. “The expression on the limousine driver’s face was priceless.

I told her, ‘Just go with it!’”

SAY IT WITH FLOWERS: Wedding planning can even include helping the prospective groom to propose. “Just the other day, we orchestrated a proposal on the beach,” Carolee says. “We arranged bright yellow plumeria blossoms in the sand to spell out, ‘Will You Marry Me?’” And did the young lady say yes? “She absolutely did.”—Heidi Pool

ELIZABETH HIGASHINO

Find more information at WhiteOrchidWedding.com.

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www.paradisetelevision.com Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Sep–Oct 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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 GREAT FINDS 

Leisure Suits You

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LOOK! IT’S A WHALE! Lucas the Whale—embroidered on a Beatrix backpack that holds everything a tot needs for a day of fun. Durable nylon, laminated canvas, padded back and shoulder straps. $48 at Ports, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000.

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SCENT-SATIONAL Aloha ‘Āina infuses its scented soaps ($10) and candles ($12) with premium essential oils and other pure ingredients. At The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua Spa, One RitzCarlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7079; and AlohaAinaShop.com.

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THE STEM’S ON THE TREE SoHa Living’s stemless wine glass is a great way to put your favorite cold drink in the palm of your hand. $15 each at SoHa Living, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 868-3430.

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SALT, WATER Spa Grande partnered with ‘Ala Lani Bath & Body to create these Hawaiian nutrient-rich baths. Each works to achieve specific therapeutic results.

Set of 5 5.3oz. jars, $135 at The Gift Shop, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234.

5,7,8: CONN BRATTAIN; ALL OTHER COURTESY OF RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

STAND UP AND PADDLE Izola’s Aloha paddleball sets come in a tidy mesh carrying case, perfect to take to the beach or the park. $32 at Biasa Rose, 104 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8602.

« ADVENTURE »

E V O AB FRANKIEBEES.COM

Champion waterman Kai Lenny is changing the standup paddleboard industry with breakneck speed. STORY BY LEHIA APANA

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“I’m obsessed with this thing,” says Kai Lenny, his spread palm pulsing the front of a thick yellow board.

We’re at a narrow cove near his home along Maui’s north shore, a mecca for windsurfers, downwind paddlers, kiteboarders and big-wave riders. A consummate waterman, Kai is all of those things—his very name is Hawaiian for “ocean.” His sundyed hair and chiseled, tanned frame are the result of playing in these waters for most of his life.

He’s brought me here today to unveil his latest equipment: a downwind standup paddleboard outfitted with a specially designed hydrofoil. People have used hydrofoil technology for years, but have always needed a motorized craft—or, with kitesurfing, a sail—to tow them up to speed. Until now, no one has been able to do it on muscle alone.

Kai pulses the board again, mimicking the pumping action required to get it to soar from the water, then flexes his hand to simulate an airplane during takeoff.

At twenty-three years old, Kai has wasted no time proving himself, amassing seven Stand Up World Series wins (three for standup-paddle racing, four for surfing) and a runner-up finish at the Kite Surf Pro World Championships. When he’s not collecting trophies, he can often be spotted at “Jaws,” the feared and revered Pe‘ahi surf break, where waves that seem the size of skyscrapers can build to more than eighty feet tall.

Born to ocean-enthusiast parents, young Kai trained with water-sport pioneers Laird Hamilton and Dave Kalama, who invited him to tow-surf on a hydrofoil at Pe‘ahi when he was just sixteen.

Despite his accomplishments, there was one ambition he couldn’t quite master.

“It was always my dream to fly like a mālolo [flying fish] downwind,” beams Kai, explaining the inspiration behind his standup paddle hydrofoil. “I‘d be out on the ocean and see them speeding across the water, covering these incredible distances.

O Y N E D B D N A

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Maui’s Kai Lenny dreamed of soaring above the ocean like a flying fish. With its new, self-powered standup paddleboard hydrofoil, the Malolo, sponsor Naish is among the companies making that dream a reality.

I was in absolute awe.”

Moments later, we’re lowering two boards into the ocean. Kai is riding his prototype: a paddleboard made by his sponsor, Naish, attached to a hydrofoil he developed with Alex Aguera of Go Foil.

And me? I’m on a regular standup paddleboard. If I’m going to see firsthand how this thing moves, I’ll have to work for it.

Our session begins along the famed Māliko Run, a downwind course known for its strong breezes and currents that allow paddlers of all disciplines to glide with the fast-moving ocean.

We remain close for a few minutes as Kai explains how the hydrofoil board works, but he soon spots an approaching swell and can’t help himself. He digs his paddle into the water, pushing out short and rapid strokes as the board steadily levitates. Kai pulls the paddle out of the water, and as if pumping an air mattress, pulses the front of the board with his front leg to increase the speed. He barely leaves a trail as he silently carves through the air, racing across the horizon and gaining speed with every zig and zag. Within seconds he’s nearly disappeared, his silhouette a mere dot on the horizon.

Together, the carbon-fiber board and hydrofoil weigh around twenty pounds, a pound or two heavier than a standard standup paddleboard. Kai says a GPS device has recorded him at speeds up to twenty-two miles per hour while he’s catching waves in the

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middle of the ocean that propel him more than a thousand yards at a time. It appears his mālolo dreams have finally come true.

“I literally feel like I’m flying. Because it’s all human powered, and I can’t see or feel the foil underneath me, it’s like someone is lifting me up through the air,” he explains.

In fact, with a little help from physics, Kai is lifting himself through the air.

“Think of the hydrofoil as an underwater airplane,” explains Alex Aguera, echoing Kai’s earlier analogy. “You need speed to get the airplane off the ground, and it’s the same thing here.”

Most important is having the right conditions, which is what makes the swift currents along Maui’s north shore ideal for the downwind standup-paddle hydrofoil. By harnessing the ocean’s energy, a rider can gain speed before leaning on the tail of the board to lift it skyward. Once elevated, the board can glide at high speeds for a mile or more.

“With the ‘wings’ of the hydrofoil, you’re basically harnessing the energy that wave is carrying. Most people think that waves are very surface, but there’s lots of power underwater,” Alex says.

A true professional, Kai makes it look easy. But behind every fluid glide and carve are years of experience, natural talent, and a healthy dose of stubbornness.

“When Kai first asked me to make him a [standup paddle-

FRANKIEBEES.COM

“When the video came out, there were people saying,‘That’s hydrodynamically impossible.’ Somebody even called it sorcery.”

« ADVENTURE »

TOP: TOM SERVAIS; BOTTOM LEFT: TONY HARRINGTON; BOTTOM RIGHT: NAIM FERGUSON

The key to this technology is a detachable hydrofoil that Kai can apply to other boards in his collection. Here at “Swimming Pools” in Fiji, he caught a wave, pumped back and caught another, airborne the whole time. (See the video at MauiMagazine. net/foil-sup.) Like other water sports, hydrofoiling can be dangerous; Kai cautions against using it in crowded surf lineups.

Alex Aquera of Go Foil worked with Kai to develop the first standup paddleboard hydrofoil prototype—and that’s saying a mouthful.

A nine-year-old Kai wears his dad’s size-eleven boots to try hydrofoiling for the first time—back when being towed by a Jet Ski or boat was the only option.

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« ADVENTURE » Kai rides an early version of this new technology. He recalls: “[Alex and I] took a board and chopped it up, then made the hydrofoil from random pieces—it was totally MacGyvered.”

Faster Water Lower Pressure Cross-section of fin

Cross-section of fin

Slower Water Higher Pressure

board hydrofoil], I was like, ‘It might work, but I’m not really sure if it will.’ But he was persistent,” recalls Alex, who began developing the technology in early 2015.

Alex’s background as a professional windsurfer, coupled with years of kiteboarding and hydrofoil building, are part of the equation. Kai’s ability to read the currents and master any kind of board he steps onto is the second piece.

“He’s the best standup paddle foil rider I know, so it’s like this dream team,” says Alex, who has been creating boards and foils longer than Kai has been alive. “I make the thing, and Kai makes it work.”

Earlier this year, Kai released a video that shows him soaring above the water on the standup hydrofoil, and onlookers from around the world went crazy. Within days, the post amassed millions of views, thousands of comments, and even a few doubters who questioned the video’s authenticity.

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“takeoff,” that higher pressure tilts the board upwards and generates lift. But staying up isn’t so simple. The key is to use your body’s weight to balance the foil wing about six inches below the surface of the water. Weight forward makes the foil go down; weight back makes it rise . . . and if the wings reach the surface, you could lose lift and slam back into the water.

“When the video came out, there were people saying, ‘Oh, that’s hydrodynamically impossible,’ or, ‘He must’ve been towed by a Jet Ski.’ Somebody even called it sorcery,” grins Kai. “When something isn’t proven, it’s hard for people to imagine how it could work. Now that we’ve proven it does work, I’m hoping that more people get into it and start pushing the sport even further.”

Kai has been working with Naish to develop another version of standup paddleboard hydrofoil named—you guessed it—the Malolo.

He predicts that within a decade, the equipment will put today’s prototype to shame. “It’s going to be so dialed in and perfect that we’re going to look back on this and think, ‘Gosh, this stuff was ancient.’”

Standup paddle hydrofoils will be available to the public this fall at NaishSurfing.com and GoFoil.com.

FRANKIEBEES.COM

Think of the hydrofoil as a kind of underwater airplane, and the water around it as the air. Like a plane’s wing, the front foil wing is curved on top, flat underneath, giving the top more surface area than the bottom. The greater surface area makes water travel faster over the top, and that creates higher pressure under the wing, lower pressure above. Once the board has built enough speed for

A P O LY N E S I A N F E A S T & S H O W A musical and culinary journey to Hawai‘i, Aotearoa, Tahiti and Samoa.

AOTEAROA Land of the long white cloud, Aotearoa – New Zealand, is home to the Maori people.

SAMOA “The cradle of Polynesia,” literally the sacred center of its fiery soul.

HAWAI‘I We begin in our beautiful island home of Hawai‘i with our chants, songs and hula .

TAHITI The land of intrigue and romance, has beckoned explorers from around the world.

667-LELE (5353) • Toll-free: 1-866-244-5353 (LELE) 505 Front Street, Lahaina, Maui, Hawai‘i WWW.FEASTATLELE .COM

Kaonoulu cattle drive, July 2016

y Story b w o d e l Jill Eng y raphy b Photog gerter n Bob Ba ra m & Ta a McKay

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« ISLAND BUSINESS »

A hundred years after its founding, this Maui ranch’s lineage runs deep.

STORY BY JILL ENGLEDOW | PHOTOGRAPHY BY BOB BANGERTER

KAONOULU’S

PEDIGREE Follow Kaonoulu Ranch’s family tree, and you’ll connect to generations of Upcountry Maui life. From the family that owns these rolling pastures on the slopes of Haleakalā, to those who have tended its cattle for a century, Kaonoulu spreads its branches far and its roots deep into the Kula soil.

Sugar and ranching were Maui’s cash industries when

Kaonoulu got its start; pineapple was just beginning its rise.

Now sugar is shutting down, and pineapple is grown only on a small scale, but Kaonoulu and other ranches remain, protecting thousands of acres of open space. Pronounced ka-ono-ulu (translated from Hawaiian as either “the delicious breadfruit” or “the desire for breadfruit”), Kaonoulu is perhaps less known to the Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Sep–Oct 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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« ISLAND BUSINESS »

public than Haleakala Ranch, with the highway to the summit bisecting its emerald pastures, or ‘Ulupalakua, with its winery and elk burgers. But Kaonoulu has a unique distinction.

The ranch is an almost complete ahupua‘a (an ancient Hawaiian land division), stretching from mountaintop to sea: from the top of Haleakalā to near the island’s southern coast. The ranch no longer owns the coastal land that includes Ko‘ie‘ie Fishpond, where cowboys used to catch mullet. But only a few miles above Pi‘ilani Highway and the houses and condominiums that fill those seaside acres, cowboys still herd cattle across rugged dryland terrain.

The Rice family, which purchased the ranch in 1916, traces Kaonoulu’s history back to a Hawaiian named Keohokoloe, who acquired an immense tract during the mid-1800s and then sold it to a Chinese rancher and farmer named Yung Hee, a former sugar contract laborer. Yung Hee repeatedly refused to sell it to his neighbor, Col. William H. Cornwell, a colorful character who owned Waikapu Sugar Plantation and was known for his racehorses and his friendship with King Kalākaua. Then Yung Hee went home to China in 1893, and word filtered back that he was ill and would not return to Maui.

Cornwell was on the next ship sailing to Shanghai. On the same ship was a certified check from sugar baron Claus Spreckels, who also coveted the Kula property. In Shanghai, Cornwall quickly disembarked, got to Yung Hee before the check did, and won the land.

Henry Rice is not entirely sure that is a true story. But however the original transaction happened, it laid the foundation for his family’s home and business. Rice’s grandfather Harold W. “Pop” Rice purchased the 10,000-acre property from Col. Cornwell’s daughter Blanche and her husband, John Walker, in August 1916, also acquiring 25,000 acres in leasehold lands.

Old-timers remember stories of Pop Rice, polo player and prominent politician, who married Charlotte Baldwin, daughter

August 5, 1916: An Upcountry pasture seems a logical site to sign papers transferring title of 10,000 acres from John Walker (left) to Harold W. “Pop” Rice (right), with Edgar Morton serving as notary.

of sugar baron Henry Perrine Baldwin. Rice expanded the ranch and ran meat markets in Wailuku and Honolulu to sell beef from 4,400 Hereford cattle and pork from a Kīhei piggery. Fields of corn helped feed 200 pigs, there were a small dairy and a poultry farm in Makawao, and the Kaonoulu stables bred and trained polo ponies for sale around the world.

In the early 1930s, fresh out of prep school, Pop’s son Harold Frederick “Oskie” Rice became full-time manager of the ranch, a job he continued until his death in 1983. In 1955, Oskie and his brother-in-law Garfield King purchased the ranch from Pop, a partnership that still exists between Rice and King cousins today. (The ranch In earlier days, the ranch’s cowboys drove cattle down the mountain to Mākena Landing, then swam them out to ships waiting offshore.

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ARCHIVAL PHOTOS COURTESY OF KAONOULU RANCH; ALL OTHERS: BOB BANGERTER

From this vantage, Henry Rice’s view extends down to Kīhei— across land that mostly belongs to his family’s ranch.

A modest sign identifies the ranch, and displays its cattle brand. Right: Wedding photos of Harold Waterhouse Rice and Charlotte Baldwin Rice, taken December 7, 1907.

Back in the saddle again: Henry Rice takes part in the ranch’s July 2016 cattle drive.

Cattle mill in the ranch’s upper pens during a 1956 drive.

Harold “Oskie” Rice with his horse Blackjack

Today, Kaonoulu’s herds include these Charolais, a French cattle breed.

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« ISLAND BUSINESS »

BOB BANGERTER

Cowboys moved cattle, repaired water lines, built fences, trained horses. Ranching was hard work, but “a good life.”

In typical island style, paniolo from other ranches help out at Kaonoulu’s July 2016 cattle drive. Below, Rice siblings (from left): Chimey (short for Charlotte) holding baby Mary, Oskie and Maud.

The ranch office was once the home of Bonnie and Wendell Wong.

Cousins Scott Baker (left) and Gar King at the 2016 Makawao Rodeo

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Freddy Rice ropes a steer at a rodeo in the late 1950s.

Above, from left: Oskie Rice, Kenji “Jockey” Ikeda and Ben Kekiwi with some of Kaonoulu’s racehorses.

ARCHIVAL PHOTOS COURTESY OF KAONOULU RANCH; OPPOSITE BOTTOM LEFT, ABOVE LEFT & FAR RIGHT: TAMARA MCKAY

Left: Henry and Freddy Rice, grand marshals of the July 4, 2016, Makawao Parade. Above: A rip-roarin’ ride at Oskie Rice Arena, home of the Makawao Rodeo.

is now led by Charlie King, managing general partner, with his brother BK and Henry’s daughter, Wendy Rice Peterson, as general partners, and Ken Miranda as general manager.) Oskie continued to improve the ranch, and sparked the growth of polo, rodeo and the fledgling Maui Roping Club by his gift of the Oskie Rice Arena above Makawao. His sons, Henry and Freddy, grew up riding and roping, winning polo tournaments on the ranch’s ponies.

The ranch’s evolution has taken place against the backdrop of an always-challenged island industry that survives only by handson stewardship combined with canny business strategies. Faced with frequent droughts, high costs for everything from fertilizer to labor, and uncertainty about what markets will offer when cattle are ready for sale, Maui ranchers cope by diversifying. Kaonoulu leases land to three farms, and owns a commercial fencing company and mainland warehouses.

This centennial year, members of Kaonoulu’s extended family are focused on ranching memories: of herding on horseback before dawn, of roundups and branding, and of names like Ernest Morton, Hua Kekiwi, Harry Auweloa, Willie Kei Poepoe and other paniolo (cowboys) who rode the ranch in the twentieth century. There was Kenji Ikeda, who managed the race horses (“the best jockey Maui ever saw,” says Henry Rice), and Winifred “Toyo” Takeyama, a prizewinning member of Pu‘unēnē’s legendary Three-Year Swim Club, who grew up to be secretary to three generations of Rice ranchers.

The Moriharas, who established Kula’s Morihara Store, worked for the Rices for years, installing gardens at the family’s Kula house.

Descendants of some of these longtime employees still work on the ranch. Other people “come up to me all the time to say, ‘My

father used to work for your grandfather,’” says Peterson. “There’s a sense of kinship and friendship and family that continues the legacy of ranching on Maui.”

Ranch foreman Paul Lopes remembers Oskie Rice coming by his great-grandfather’s house to plan the next week’s work, and his grandfather instructing cowboy Harry Auweloa in fluent Hawaiian.

Ernest Morton worked for the ranch for nearly sixty years, and his great-grandson, also ranch foreman, is the fourth generation on the ranch. Lopes’s son, Kory, is the fifth.

Lopes also remembers looking down from Kula when Kīhei and Wailuku Heights were almost uninhabited and Kula traffic was rare.

When Kaonoulu cowboys used to herd the red Santa Gertrudis cattle Oskie had introduced to higher pastures, “It was something to see. It was a sea of red,” Lopes recalls. “We’d get arrested these days” for “flooding the highway” with a herd of cattle.

Retired cowboy Merton Kekiwi worked for Oskie Rice after growing up on the ranch, where his dad, Hua, was farming and fencing foreman. Ranching was hard work, but “a good life.” Paniolo rose at 4 a.m. to move cattle before it got so hot that the animals sought shade and refused to move. Cowboys repaired water lines, built and fixed fences, set up water troughs, trained their own horses.

Former cowgirl Bonnie Hew Wong used to go with her father, Eddie Hew, to help at roundups and drives. In 1975, offered the chance to work full-time at the ranch, she quit her nurse-training program at Maui Community College and got back on a horse.

Bonnie and husband Wendell Wong still go back to the ranch to help at roundups and branding. Like others in the Kaonoulu Ranch ‘ohana, Wendell has family connections—paniolo Harry Auweloa Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Sep–Oct 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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« ISLAND BUSINESS »

Signs of Kaonoulu’s presence extend from Kula Country Farms (whose market sits on land leased from the ranch, just below Rice Park) to Oskie Rice Arena near Makawao town.

From left: Henry Rice with current ranch management Charlie King, Wendy Rice Peterson, BK King and Ken Miranda.

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was his grandfather.

Bonnie Wong is helping the Rices plan a reunion and grows teary-eyed about the ranch’s centennial. “I’m grateful for that,” she says of the ranch’s longevity under the ownership of one family.

“They’re so humble,” she adds. “They take care of their people.”

And up at the family home, where Henry Rice and wife Sandy have meticulously maintained the historic fittings and atmosphere of earlier times, the family looks forward to reunion with dozens of relatives. Such gatherings are not unusual. Family members show up for branding and other ranch activities, and “It’s fifty-two for dinner at Christmas and Thanksgiving,” Peterson says.

The centennial was also an occasion for Henry and Freddy— co-grand marshals of this year’s Makawao Parade—to honor their dad, known as the father of the rodeo that’s held on the July 4th weekend at Oskie Rice Arena, above Makawao town. Thirty-five horseback riders joined them.

Henry Rice took over the ranch in 1989, retiring as a senior executive at the Bank of Hawai‘i in Honolulu. “My family said I was playing around long enough, and I had to come home and work,” he jokes. Now the ranch’s senior advisor, he looks to a future with the next generation in charge of a diversified company that runs about 1,500 head of cattle (some of them Coriente, sports-oriented animals used in rodeos). The ranch participates in conservation efforts as a member of the Leeward Haleakalā Watershed Restoration Partnership, which aims to restore koa forests at higher elevations; the family will plant 100 koa trees to commemorate the centennial.

In 2014, Kaonoulu purchased the Miranda Fence Company and hired as ranch general manager Ken Miranda, who moved his company to Maui and brought along ranching expertise from years on Hawai‘i Island. Miranda is married to Morag, Freddy Rice’s daughter. Together, the Mirandas work to promote youth rodeo programs.

And of course, their children, Daniel and Elizabeth, have joined their cousins Kaulike Rice (Freddy’s grandson) and Scott Baker (Henry’s grandson) as the next generation to ride Kaonoulu pastures.

ARCHIVAL PHOTOS COURTESY OF KAONOULU RANCH; MIDDLE (2): BOB BANGERTER; BOTTOM: TAMARA MCKAY

Clockwise from left: Bonnie Hew, Harry Auweloa, Ernest Morton and Hua Kekiwi—a few of the many members of Kaonoulu’s extended ‘ohana.

Background photo, from left: Jock Milne, Johnny Walker and Willie Kei Poepoe in 1949

grounded in

STORY BY JUDY EDWARDS PHOTOGRAPHY BY RYAN SIPHERS

I remember reading a sailor’s account of a walk he took on a Hawaiian island after long weeks at sea. This would have been the early 1800s, post-Western contact, but prethe epidemics that would roar through the Hawaiian world like a wildfire, emptying out its communities. He walked all day, and not once was he out of sight of orderly villages and farms that not only lay along the shore, but high up on the slopes of the island. Hawaiians, though celebrated fishermen, were also deeply rooted in the uses and importance of plants.

As inhabitants of the most isolated islands on Earth, they had to be. Some of those plants were carefully carried to Hawai‘i from elsewhere in Polynesia—“canoe plants” whose uses and stories were essential. Others were endemics—plants that evolved to fit this island ecosystem precisely, and hence are found only here; their uses and stories would unfold as the need to learn them arose. Why would stories be essential? For a culture that had no writing, no history books to refer to,

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Kou blossoms and seeds

stories were a way to personify and anchor in time the meanings and importance of events, people, and in this case, plants that fed and housed and healed.

Pre-contact Hawai‘i’s intense isolation made it a laboratory where evolution ran wild, experimenting with function and form. Many plants that arrived here on the wind or waves, or on the wings and feet (and in the digestive system) of birds changed over time, becoming unique to this place. Without animals to chew or trample them, some plants lost their mintyness (which in plants is a repellent), their hardiness or thorns. Imagine those vulnerable plants when foreign invaders (people included) arrived. At Maui Nui Botanical Gardens, those precious endemics are sheltered, nurtured, cultivated and shared. The Gardens is also a haven for indigenous plants (found naturally here but also naturally elsewhere), as well as a locally famous repository of canoe plants and all of the history entwined with them. Here are just a few.

culture

« HAWAIIAN SOUL »

The culture of ancient Hawai‘i was deeply rooted in nature.

It still is—thanks to places like Maui Nui Botanical Gardens.

MA‘O Gossypium tomentosum, Hawai‘i’s native cotton Cotton is not a plant you expect to find in Hawai‘i. That is no fault of cotton’s; its continental history is vast and brings to mind images of industry and empire, slavery and war. Hawai‘i’s native cotton has been here all along, dotting the coast and sunning itself, sometimes spreading up and out to bushes eight feet high or more, and covered in fluffy white bundles.

Hawaiians did not use it in cloth in the way that the western world did (although they did stuff pillows with it). But they did make it into a green or yellow kapa dye (leaves and flowers, with a little egg white thrown in), while dried ma‘o flowers were part of a medicine for severe stomach cramps. The name ma‘o is a contraction of the Hawaiian ‘ōma‘o (green), and that is also the name of the native Hawaiian thrush with the greenish sheen on its feathers. Despite the impressive historical résumé of continental cottons, it is the country cousin, the Hawaiian cotton, that actually saved that industry when it was hybridized (bred into) commercial cottons. Why? Insects are not attracted to it in the same way. Like hula and surfing, ma‘o is a seemingly small Hawaiian contribution that has helped to shape the modern world.

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« HAWAIIAN SOUL »

KOU Cordia subcordata, a borage Botanists have recently decided that kou is a native plant, based on fossil pollen evidence.

It is a tree that the modern world has overlooked, but that the Hawaiian world treasured. It was in a celebrated kou grove in Lahaina that the ali‘i Ka‘ahumanu gave permission for the first Christian sermon in Hawai‘i, but today very few kou trees remain. I find them standing lonely and proud around former village sites on Maui, generally along the coast. There is something about the orange-red visual tone of the flowers that first talked to my heart, flowers that were prized in lei. One ‘ōlelo no‘eau (Hawaiian proverb) tells of a rude young chiefess who repeatedly demanded a lei kou of an old woman whom she misjudged to be a nobody. The crone was in fact a sorceress who called sharks down upon the imperious young woman as she reclined in a tide pool.

Kou is best known for the beauty of its cream-and-caramel-toned wood, with fine grain that swirls and pools. Beautiful and useful: kou wood does not impart the taste of itself into the food held by the great bowls and calabashes of yesterday’s Hawai‘i. Carvers loved how easily it was worked. Parents would thoughtfully and hopefully plant kou when children were born so those children and then grandchildren would have the wood, someday, for carving.

Kou seems to own the tones of the warm brown and red spectrum, and a dye extracted from the carefully aged leaves stained kapa. Fishing lines, like all cordage in that time, were made of organic fibers. Salt water was tough on fibers, but kou dye applied to fishing lines strengthened and protected them. And as long as one didn’t go around demanding that old women hand over laboriously crafted personal items, you might assume that the sharks would leave the fishermen alone.

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AWAPUHI Zingiber zerumbet, “shampoo ginger” Hike Maui’s deep valleys in the late summer and you can’t help but see them, the plump ovoid bracts of this introduced ginger’s flowering stems. They peep at you from beneath long, dark-green glossy leaves, decorated all over with tiny white or yellow flowers. Snap off the stem and give the bract a squeeze.

Clear, fragrant juice the consistency of warm honey will flood out.

As a shampoo and body soap, awapuhi was adored, important enough to be brought along in the settlement canoes. (The plant originates in India, and gradually seduced its way to Polynesia.) Like all gingers, awapuhi’s roots, or rhizomes, are fragrant. Hawaiians didn’t employ it in cooking (though they did use juice from the rhizome to ease stomachaches).

Instead, they dried and powdered the rhizome to scent kapa (barkcloth). Mmmm.

Gingery bedding and clothes. And scent is powerful; how often have you been yanked sideways by a memory triggered by a smell? Hawaiians also used awapuhi and other scented plants ceremonially as a potent way to connect with the gods—as one cultural advisor put it, to “make the space appropriate for the akua [gods] to come.”

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HALAPEPE Chrysodracon auwahiensis Does the halapepe remind you of Dr. Seuss? Me, too.

Those tousled heads seem animate. Ted Geisel never came to Hawai‘i, but had he, I think he would have smiled to see halapepe.

Plant families are wacky, so let me just tell you that halapepe is technically an endemic asparagus.

And it’s a sun-lover, found standing glossy and proud between 2,000 and 4,000 feet upslope of the restless sea. Its name means “baby hala” for reasons obvious to those who are familiar with the famous weaving plant of Polynesia, also long-leaved but much hardier and found closer to the sea. Chills, headaches and fever were treated in steamy baths with halapepe leaves; the bark, root and leaves helped to treat asthma. Leaves and the startling pendant flowers, yellow-green to yellow-orange, found their way into lei, while the soft white-to-pink wood was worked into ki‘i (carved deities).

Halapepe is rare in the wild, but hula practitioners grow it. It’s one of the five essential plants that decorate the altars dedicated to Laka, the goddess of hula, that sacred dance that depicts the power and mystery of life. And halapepe is a kinolau (earthly form) of Kapo‘ulakina‘u, sometimes referred to as “the first goddess of sorcery,” an unpredictable goddess, although in the form of halapepe, she is tamed somewhat. I have stumbled across halapepe on sunny hillsides, tossing that wild and shiny green hair in the late gold light of day, performing a solitary hula for any gods who might be paying attention . . . or maybe just for me.

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« HAWAIIAN SOUL » ‘ILIMA Sida fallax, a hibiscus By and large, the story of native Hawaiian plants is a story of losing ground to aggressive alien plants, to the trampling and teeth of introduced animals, and the gradual loss of cultural meaning. Bright, dusky-orange ‘ilima is an exception; it’s actually listed as “a common plant found on all of the Hawaiian Islands.” I know it as the little glowing flowerheads that nod to me in the driest of the drylands around the southwestern sides of Maui. Miraculously, Indian Axis deer—an introduced plague—won’t eat it, even in the parched areas where they have munched the life out of every other last plant.

Sometimes it grows low to the ground (‘ilima papa) and sometimes it is a spindly but hardy bush. In pre-contact times, ‘ilima was also the name for the flat land near a village, and the plants there of the same name were carefully tended as a source of flowers for lei, something that sounds breezy and easy until you realize that it takes 500 to 1,000 ‘ilima flowers to make one strand. The ali‘i (chiefs) favored the red and pure-yellow flowers in their lei ‘ilima, so much like the bright tones of their treasured feather lei. All the shades of the flower had names: kuakea for the light-yellow flower, ‘ilima lei for the deep-golden flower, ‘ilima ‘ula‘ula for the bronze flower, and ‘ilima kolī kukui for the rusty red flower—a distinction that tips you off to the value of, or affection for, the plant.

Hawaiians also kept it near the family compound for its purgative and medicinal qualities. ‘Ilima blossoms were given to new babies to stimulate their first, well, poops. For adults, ‘ilima sap and warm seawater went up to induce, ahem, things to come down. Women in labor drank the pounded flowers, a slimy concoction that helped to ease childbirth. And ‘ilima leaves, sturdy but velvety, were the toilet paper of Old Hawai‘i.

While one source says that ‘ilima treated “general weakness,” I myself have to admit to a general weakness for the plant, growing there in the kīpuka (oases) of the lava fields—little gold and orange sparks, fortunately still common.

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KŌ Saccharum officinarum, sugar cane Maui is in an interesting place right now, as the waving fields of cane and the business of sugar are poised to become history. Many people assume that Maui’s vast green acres of kō began with the cane brought to Hawai‘i by Polynesians, but this commercial cane is a western hybrid, homogenous and hardy. The many varieties of sugar cane grown by Hawaiians were softer, the insides easier to chew, and usually found planted around gardens as an edible, beautiful windbreak. Stems were striped or smudged with green, yellow and white, purple and pink. Hawaiians chewed the stalks on hot afternoons, or used the juice in cooking.

Kō softened the tastes of bitter medicines and harnessed the body’s rapid metabolic absorption of sugar to catalyze those medicines and get them quickly into the bloodstream.

The outsides of cane stalks are sharp, like bamboo (also an Asian grass), and so could be carved into arrows for the popular sport of pana‘iole— shooting rats. The long leaves could be used as thatching, and the charcoal from burnt kō made a black kapa dye. As with all canoe plants, this list of uses is just the beginning, as a valuable place in the voyaging canoes was earned by a plant’s multifaceted uses. Kō means “fulfilled,” and as a kinolau of the god Kāne, is used in the ‘awa ceremony. Kō sweetens the bitter drink, and is used again in the closing, so that the last prayer will be, well, fulfilled.

Sugar cane was also used in hana aloha (love magic). In one example, a lovesick person consulted the kahuna (priest or healer), who advised the eating of pilimai and manulele sugar cane varieties. The yearning lover then blew in the direction of the beloved, trusting the god manifested as the wind to carry the love mana (spirit or power) along. Caressed by this sweet wind, the beloved would fall helplessly in love in return.

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« HAWAIIAN SOUL »

PUA KALA Argemone glauca, Hawaiian poppy The harsh, coastal lava fields of Hawai‘i bake in the sun.

The edges of the lava can be sharp enough to cut. In the summer, heat ripples over the rocks. Yet here and there the vivid white flower face of the pua kala bobs from the top of a spiky blue-green stalk, cheerful and defiant in an unforgiving and desolate environment. Pua kala means “prickly flower,” and it is one of the few native plants with defenses. Nick the plant (without sticking yourself with the prickles) and you’ll find the bright yellow sap that Hawaiians used to treat toothaches, ulcers and nerve pain, thanks to the opiates found in poppies worldwide. In the Hawaiian creation chant, the Kumulipo, every life form on the land had a twin in the ocean, and for pua kala, that twin was the spiky seaweed limu kala. Both plants were woven into ho‘oponopono (forgiveness and release) ceremonies, which, when you think about it, is another way of easing pain.

Maui Nui Botanical Gardens is a green and soothing treasure in the windy heart of Kahului. Its mission is to preserve native and Polynesian-introduced plants and their cultural heritage. The grounds hold a genetic repository unlike any other, and it’s a good place to learn about landscaping and xeriscaping. In some cases, the Gardens provides access to plants for cultural practitioners, when essential hula-related species are hard to find in the wild or to grow at home. Visit to enjoy the plants; learn their history, stories and uses; and connect with Maui’s botanical bloodline.

Located at 150 Kanaloa Avenue, across from the War Memorial Stadium, Maui Nui Botanical Gardens is open Monday through Saturday, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Call 249-2798 or visit mnbg.org for a schedule of tours, workshops and volunteering opportunities.

Our thanks to kumu hula Pueo Pata for his cultural insights on the plants in this essay.

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Photography, styling, sets by Conn Brattain

A big beautiful book from Patagonia Press came across our desk not long ago. The Aloha Shirt, by Dale Hope, got us thinking about what defines quintessential island style. One great print led to another. (Find the book and where to buy it on page 54.)

BLUE HAWAI‘I Secondhand fish & flower print shirt by Avi Collection by Kahala, $48 at Indigo Paia, 149 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-9199. Chambray swim trunks by Solid & Stripe, $130 at Le Surf at The Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea; 891-3810. Blue ombre lens “Phoenix” sunglasses by Persol, $280 at ILORI Optical in *The Shops at Wailea, 875-1188. Beaches, $40 at Ports; and Hari Mari grey leather flip-flops, $80 at Cabana; both at Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Surfing, $1 at Maui Friends of the Library in Pu‘unēnē, Lahaina’s Wharf Cinema Center, and Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center in Kahului; MFOL.org. Blue glass floats, 2”/$7, 3”/$9, 5”/$13 at SoHa Living in *The Shops at Wailea, 868-3430. Ceramic fish box, $24; puka-shell necklace, $56; white wood bead lei, $42; white porcelain octopus, $19; all at HUE, 210 Alamaha St., Kahului, 873-6910, MauiHue.com.

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« ISLAND STYLE »

SHIRT STRINGS ‘Ukulele print shirt by Pineapple Juice, $78 at Moonbow Tropics, 27 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3131; 612 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7998; and in *The Shops at Wailea, 874-1170; MoonbowTropics.com. Ecua-Andino plum Panama hat with black grosgrain band, $169 at Aloha Hat Company in *The Shops at Wailea, 280-9169; and 612 Front St., Lahaina. Ray-Ban’s wood frame Club Master sunglasses, $300 at ILORI Optical in *The Shops at Wailea, 8751188. Nui tan leather sandal by OluKai, $30 at Wailea Breezes in the Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Mele Ukulele boasts a large selection of ‘ukulele in beautiful tone woods. Prices vary by style; shown is $449. Visit Mele Ukulele at 1750 Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Wailuku, 244-3938; and in *The Shops at Wailea, 879-6353. Pink plumeria lei, $13 at Costco in Kahului. Kukui nut lei, $8 at ABC Stores islandwide.

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MAUI GOLD Pineapple-print silk shirt by Tommy Bahama, $118 at The Mens Shop; Striper lace-up/slip-on shoes by Sperry Top Siders, $60 at Wailea Breezes; both in the Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Curry cotton drawstring shorts by Hartford, $173 at Cabana at Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Annan roadster sunglasses in olive tortoise by Shauns, $270 at Le Surf at The Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea; 891-3810. Gold pineapple jewelry tray, $47 at SoHa Living in *The Shops at Wailea, 868-3430. Green and blue glass bead necklaces, $27 each at HUE, 210 Alamaha St., Kahului, 873-6910, MauiHue.com. Recycycled hand-carved alphabet books (H and I shown), $19 each at Biasa Rose, 104 Hāna Hwy.,

Pā‘ia, 579-8602. Special-order selection of lei (call for prices) at Native Intelligence, 1980 Main St., Wailuku, 249-2521, Native-Intel.com.

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SURF’S UP Aloha-print silk shirt by Avanti, $82 at Moonbow Tropics, 27 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3131; 612 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7998; and in *The Shops at Wailea, 874-1170; MoonbowTropics.com. White/blue natural hemp straw fedora by Biltmore Hats, $190 at Aloha Hat Company in *The Shops at Wailea, 280-9169; and 612 Front St., Lahaina. Cayenne Swami swim shorts by Trunks, $48 at Le Surf at The Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea; 891-3810.

Moonlight Blue Nohea mesh slip-on by OluKai, $85 at Wailea Breezes at the Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. The History of Surfing, $50 at SoHa Living in *The Shops at Wailea, 868-3430. Surf Is Where You Find It, $25 at Nuage Bleu, 76 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-9792. Blue and black frame sunglass readers by ICU Eyewear, $24 at Whole Foods in Maui Mall 70 E Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 872-3310.

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ALOHA STATE Mauve Tropic print cotton shirt by Toes on the Nose, $98 at The Gift Shop in the Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8751234. Khaki wave print Mike shorts by Surfside Supply Company, $98 at Cabana at Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Pink/ cocoa natural hemp straw fedora with pink satin band by Biltmore Hats, $190 at Aloha Hat Company in *The Shops at Wailea, 280-9169; and 612 Front St., Lahaina. Ray-Ban Wayfarer tortoise sunglasses, $220 at ILORI Optical in *The Shops at Wailea, 875-1188. The Aloha Shirt, $60 at Maui Thing, 7 N. Market St., Wailuku, 249-0215. Wimini Hawai‘i’s ALOHA & MAHALO canvas tote, $19 at Biasa Rose, 104 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8602. Pink plumeria lei, $13 at Costco

in Kahului. Special-order selection of lei (call for prices) at Native Intelligence, 1980 Main St., Wailuku, 249-2521, Native-Intel.com

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ISLAND-HOPPING Kahikiku Nā‘ū cotton aloha print shirt by Kealopiko, $95; Kimura’s fedora-style handwoven lauhala hat, $325; special-order cigar flower lei (call for prices), all at Native Intelligence, 1980 Main St., Wailuku, 249-2521, Native-Intel.com. Hari Mari navy and orange canvas flip-flops, $80; jungle print nylon swim shorts by Hartford, $145; both at Cabana at Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Blue frame Typewriter Edition eyeglasses, $300 (frame only) at ILORI Optical in *The Shops at Wailea, 875-1188. Atlas of Remote Islands: Fifty Islands I Have Never Set Foot On and Never Will, $30; and Maui Sunrise vintage-inspired travel poster by Nick Kuchar Art & Design Co., both at Nuage Bleu, 76 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-9792. *The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea. Find more of the aloha shirts and accessories we fell in love with at MauiMagazine.net/shirt-stories.

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Spa Grande at the Grand Wailea Resort

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COURTESY OF GRAND WAILEA RESORT AND SPA

Resort Report

« MAUI STYLE »

A great resort is much more than simply a place to rest your head, and no one knows that better than Maui’s resort destinations.

Here’s what’s new and novel—whatever type of traveler you are.

COURTESY OF MONTAGE KAPALUA BAY

COMPILED BY LEHIA APANA

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The Grand Wailea’s Mike Lofaro and Kainoa Horcajo (second & third from left) filming Search Hawaii

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Culture Buffs

From Hawaiian consultants, to activities steeped in ancient practices, island resorts are creating myriad ways for visitors to connect with the people and traditions of the indigenous culture.

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Makalapua Kanuha is director of culture for The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas; connecting visitors to the host culture is both her job and her passion. Guests can visit with Makalapua at the hotel’s Pu‘uhonua Cultural Center, where she hosts Hawaiian language classes and “talk story” sessions every week. The center is open Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. WestinKaanapali.com

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To say Mike Lofaro of Grand Wailea’s Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a restaurant is having a good year is putting it lightly. Within months of being voted Chef of the Year at Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s 2016 ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards, Lofaro collected an Emmy for his work on the culinary adventure series SEARCH Hawaii. The show follows Chef Mike and Grand Wailea cultural advisor Kainoa Horcajo as they gather ingredients across the Islands and create dinners based on the Hawaiian moon calendar.

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Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel is known as “Hawai‘i’s most Hawaiian hotel,” and a new beachside center is adding to that reputation. Paying homage to Hawaiian traditions, Hale Huaka‘i (“adventure center”) signifies a voyage, or a place from which to embark on an adventure. Here you can rent gear and take stand-up paddle instruction that doubles as a history lesson, try your hand (and nose) at a free lesson in playing the ‘ohe hanu ‘ihu (nose flute) or blowing a conch. Hale Huaka‘i is open 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. KBHMaui.com

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The pint-sized ‘ukulele has captured the world’s imagination, but kī hō‘alu (slack-key) guitar is equally enchanting. The music style started in the early 1800s with Mexican cowboys who came to teach Hawaiians ranching skills. The vaqueros brought with them their guitars, which Hawai‘i’s paniolo (cowboys) made their own. Beloved Hawaiian musician and Grammy-winner George Kahumoku Jr. hosts Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar on Wednesdays, 7:30 p.m., at Napili Kai Beach Resort; the series features a rotating lineup of Hawai‘i’s most renowned music makers. SlackKeyShow.com

COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE RIGHT HOLDERS

SEARCH Hawaii was inspired by the Grand Wailea’s Ka Malama Dinner, a five-course feast held quarterly, featuring foraged foods. The next dinner is November 18, cost is $150, and reservations are required. Call 875-1234.

«MAUI STYLE »

Romance With its balmy ocean breezes and glowing sunsets, seductive settings and heart-stirring views, Maui was made for falling in love.

Here are some ways our resorts are amping up the romance.

Following an eight-month closure and $75 million renovation, Four Seasons Resort Lanai welcomed back guests earlier this year. Tech-billionaire Larry Ellison owns 98 percent of the island, including this ultra-luxurious resort overlooking Mānele Bay, so over-the-top opulence is a given. So is the romance: the resort offers secluded lounges, an adults-only pool, private boat charters and options for dining under the stars. And the bay below has a legendary Sweetheart Rock. FourSeasons.com/Lanai

COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE RIGHT HOLDERS

Lovebirds can check into Travaasa Hana and say “I do” to an elopement package that includes a stay in a newly renovated Sea Ranch Cottage at the ocean’s edge. With no clocks or TV, the outside world disappears, leaving you to absorb your lush surroundings—and each other. Travaasa.com

Andaz Maui entices brides-to-be with swoon-worthy settings and planners happy to help craft that dream wedding. But why wait ‘til the day-of to celebrate, when you can toast the night before? Private cabana dining starts with a chef consultation to create a custom five-course menu, and wine paired by the resort’s sommelier. Maui.Andaz.Hyatt.com

Imagine you and your sweetie sipping champagne, nibbling chocolate-covered strawberries, and exploring Maui’s night sky.

Astronomer Ed Mahoney invites couples to join him on the roof of the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa for a most romantic tour of the stars. Showtime is 10 p.m. nightly; seating is limited. For details and reservations, call 667-4727.

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«MAUI STYLE »

The Sporting Life�

Hawai‘i has the happiest, healthiest residents in the nation. So says a 2015 survey by Gallup Healthways. You don’t need a local zip code to take part in our active lifestyle. Here are some of the many ways Maui resorts can help you keep your energy—and FitBit—buzzing all day long.

Wailea Golf Club has long attracted golfers to its rolling green fairways, ocean panoramas, and myriad amenities. Through December 18, 2016, players can score a deal with the Wailea Seahorse Swing: three days’ unlimited golf on the Emerald and Gold courses, discounts on club rentals, food and merchandise, for $465 per person. Take advantage of the promotion, and you might even run into Maui’s own “Flyin’ Hawaiian,” major-league baseball standout Shane Victorino, who returns for his eponymous benefit tournament November 19. WaileaGolf.com

Kapalua Golf is big on family. The Bay Course adds junior tees to its front nine holes daily, starting at 2:30 p.m. Junior golfers (seventeen and under) can play nine holes free when accompanied by a paying adult, and use complimentary clubs when teeing off after 2:30 p.m. Juniors can also receive free instruction when sharing a lesson with a paying adult at Kapalua Golf Academy. For info, tee times and lessons, call 669-8044, toll free1-877–KAPALUA (527-2582), or visit GolfAtKapalua.com.

Is tennis your love? At Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch, PlaySight technology provides match analytics that can help you see and learn from your mistakes. Using six cameras affixed to the court, PlaySight shoots video that tracks the ball and players’ movements, and uploads that video—along with your stats—to your profile on PlaySight’s website. You can even upload your video to YouTube, or capture that perfect backhand volley and share it on Facebook. RoyalLahaina.com

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COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE RIGHT HOLDERS

This year, Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort began offering its guests a mode of transportation that’s turning heads: the Schiller Water Bike. This hybrid vehicle combines bicycle engineering and nautical design that lets riders glide across the ocean. Guests can hop on the saddle during daily water-bike spinning classes, or explore solo with a rental. Maui.Andaz.Hyatt.com

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SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS

Enjoy the hospitality of Maui’s plantation era at the historic Pioneer Inn on Lahaina Harbor.

Plenty of Places to Shop with over 14 Retailers ∏ Restaurants Leola of Hawaii

Pioneer Inn Bar & Grill

Tickets For Less

Best Western Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina (808) 661-3636 www.pioneerinnmaui.com

«MAUI STYLE »

Foodies

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We admit it: Maui diners are spoiled. Food lovers here can bite into fresh, island-grown produce (and locally caught fish) prepared by world-class chefs. We even pair it with a thriving cocktail and craft brewery scene. Lucky you—we share. Here’s news you can sink your teeth into.

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If you crave indulgence, Montage Kapalua Bay has just the thing: lunch or dinner served by a private chef at the exclusive Cliff House overlooking Namalu Bay. Arrive up to an hour early and enjoy the ocean below, complete with snorkel gear and water toys. Private showers make freshening up before dining a breeze. MontageHotels.com/ KapaluaBay

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No need to request a table with a view at the new Burger Shack at DT Fleming Beach fronting The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua. The casual hideaway sits beneath a canopy of coconut palms, and serves burgers, shakes, craft beers and tropical cocktails in a luxuriously laid-back island setting.

Like to dine on the beach? Ask about a to-go kit.

BurgerShackKapalua.com

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Speaking of libations, the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa’s “Maui Made” vacation package will introduce you to the island’s distillers and vineyard with discounted tours of Maui Brewing Company, MauiWine, and OCEAN Organic Vodka.

The package includes deluxe accommodations and beverage-inspired welcome amenities. It starts at $314 per night and runs through December 21, 2016. (Rate code LOPKG1.) Sheraton-Maui.com.

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Not a master chef? Not to worry. Every month, Chef Ben Marquez of Andaz Maui’s Ka‘ana Kitchen conducts Ka‘ana Kupboard, a cooking class that invites up to twelve students into the kitchen for hands-on instruction with themes like Backyard Barbecue, Rock and Roll Sushi, and Modern Lū‘au.

Prefer a spot on the other side of the counter? Check out Ka‘ana Kitchen’s Chef Bloc series with Chef de Cuisine Ritchard Cariaga. Chef Bloc offers a sixcourse pairing dinner highlighting grown-on-Maui ingredients, and diners can watch the process up close, ask questions and even help plate the dishes.

See what’s cooking this month at Maui.Andaz.

Hyatt.com.

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That treehouse you dreamed of as a child? It’s here at Hotel Wailea: a grand treehouse suspended in a mango and avocado orchard. Reserve this whimsical setting for a private-chef dinner by emailing nschuhardt@hotelwailea.com.

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COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE RIGHT HOLDERS

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GAME ON HAWAIIAN STYLE Hawaii’s favorite, award-winning Bay and Plantation Courses are a must play on Maui. Unparalleled views, championship courses and state-of-the-art golf academy make Kapalua a golf experience you’ll never forget.

For more Information, please contact Kapalua@Troon.com

1-877-KAPALUA | GOLFATKAPALUA.COM |

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«MAUI STYLE »

A Healthy Dose of Hedonism For those in pursuit of pleasure, the search ends here. Maui resorts make it easy to spoil your senses with aaah-inducing activities and distinctive treatments that will make you feel like the V.I.P you are.

Start your day with a sunrise hike, then learn the Hawaiian martial art of lua, followed by a seminar to boost memory and increase productivity. It’s possible at Kapalua Wellness Weekend, a three-day experience led by health icons from around the country at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, September 16 through18. Many events are free; for a schedule, visit KapaluaWellness.com

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Andaz Maui’s Āwili Spa is tapping Mother Nature for her healing secrets, using herbs from the hotel’s garden in treatments. The spa’s new Organic Facial includes fruits, veggies, spices and herbs. Farm-to(massage) table, indeed.

Here on a “babymoon”? Fairmont Kea Lani’s Willow Stream Spa offers the mother of all massages. The treatment incorporates nourishing cocoa butter and features a massage table that tilts up to take pressure off your back, or reclines with a support-cushion system that molds to a pregnant tummy, so you can also lie on your stomach.

Complimentary pregnancy portraits, a gender-reveal cake, and prenatal yoga complete the pampering. From the Kea Lani, we’d expect nothing less.

TOP RIGHT: SHELBY LYNCH; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

Grand Wailea’s aptly named Spa Grande is a 50,000-square-foot relaxation wonderland—and it just got better. To celebrate its twenty-fifth anniversary, the hotel has spent $70 million refreshing its public spaces, including the award-winning spa.

You’ll still find Hawai‘i’s largest water therapy terme here, five soaking baths, furo, saunas, and waterfall massage jets, along with new treatments and amenities that let you customize your music preferences during your next lomi lomi massage.

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THERE’S PLENTY TO PLAY AT HAWAII’S LARGEST GOLF RESORT With three championship courses, scores of awards and ocean views from every hole – there’s more to enjoy at the Wailea Golf Club than any other golf destination in the islands.

Plus: great seasonal offers and multi-round specials mean you can play even more.

You’re just a tee time away.

www.waileagolf.com TOLL-FREE 1.888.328.MAUI | 808.875.7450 WAILEA GOLD | WAILEA EMERALD | WAILEA BLUE

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«MAUI STYLE »

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Kids & Families

Let’s face it—if the kids aren’t happy, Mom and Dad aren’t, either.

Maui resorts can be your allies in Operation Fun, offering all kinds of ways to entertain the young ones (and young in spirit).

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If your youngster would rather kick a ball than swing a club, Kā‘anapali Golf Courses has a game that’s a shoo-in. Held on the Kā‘anapali Kai Course, FootGolf is a family-friendly hybrid sport that combines soccer and golf. Players kick off the tee, and the “hole” is a plastic cup twenty-one inches in diameter. It’s fun for all ages, and available after 3:30 p.m. KaanapaliGolfCourses.com

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In the waters off Pu‘u Keka‘a—the coast-hugging lava cliff nicknamed Black Rock—kids can peek beneath the surface and see how Maui’s other half lives.

They can also learn about these sea creatures at the Maui Ocean Center Hawaiian Marine Life Hale at the Sheraton Maui Resort. A marine naturalist is on-site, and the space features marine-themed games and puzzles for the keiki (children). Open daily 9 a.m.–noon. Sheraton-Maui.com

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You don’t have to be a kid to enjoy the classic combo of graham crackers, marshmallows and chocolate. Gather the family for a cozy evening beside Sheraton Maui’s oceanfront firepits, below Cliff Dive Grill. Purchase s’mores kits through the Sheraton’s in-room dining service and have them delivered to your room. The Grill offers food-and-beverage service at the firepits, so adults can sip on tropical beverages while the kids get to roasting their s’mores. A limited number of s’mores kits are available daily, and firepits are on a first-come basis, so plan early for this popular activity. Firepits are open nightly, 6–9 p.m. Sheraton-Maui.com

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Jean-Michel Cousteau’s Ambassadors of the Environment program at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, is an educational experience in disguise. Local experts and naturalists transform Maui’s ecological resources into a classroom through hikes, tide pool exploration and storytelling. The public is welcome. RitzCarlton.com/Kapalua

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Grab the camera—Madeline the Mermaid returns to the Grand Wailea, and the kids will surely want proof of the sighting. This real-life “mermaid” meets with fans to swim and chat, appearing during family vacation times: Christmas and New Year’s, spring break and summer. GrandWailea.com

1: KYLE ELLISON; 2:JOHN GIORDANI; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE RIGHT HOLDERS

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island oasis A homeowner/tree farmer brings back green acres to a dry Lahaina hillside.

Story by Heidi Pool | Photography by Travis Rowen

Indulgence begins at home: cooling in a cabana, soaking in a hot tub, swimming laps in the infinity pool, or easing into a chair on the deck to watch for whales along the coast.

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« AT HOME »

A water-frugal irrigation system restored acres of green to these slopes once carpeted in sugar cane.

Opposite: The living room’s vaulted ceilings and expansive, retractable glass doors erase the boundary between indoors and out.

When the couple we’ll call Alex and Joan first stood on the vacant lot above Lahaina that would eventually become their new home, they spotted humpback whales breaching in the sparkling sapphire ocean below. That sealed the deal. “Seeing the whales felt like a sign that this was the place for us,” says Alex.

But six years passed before they and their two children moved in. “When we purchased the property, it was a big, scrubby lot,” says Alex. “All five acres required extensive grading before we

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could break ground.” And finding an architect and builder wasn’t simple, either. “It was 2004, and there was a lot of building going on,” he says. “We interviewed several architects and builders, but didn’t feel any of them would be willing to invest the time required to incorporate the features we wanted in the house. We’re patient people, and we wanted to personalize our home.”

The realtor who had helped them purchase the lot recommended architect Randy Wagner. “I’d just returned from a surf

vacation in Fiji, where I’d seen a house I fell in love with,” Randy recalls. “It had three detached buildings with steep, doublepitched roofs.” Adapting that concept for Alex and Joan’s home, she designed a house whose three sections form a semicircle connected by hallways. Alex refers to the different sections as the “master suite,” the “main house,” and the “other side.”

The home’s design evolved over time. “When we began, it was going to be a casual beach house,” says Randy. “But as we moved

forward, it got nicer and nicer. Especially once Eddie Takayesu [master woodworker and owner of Maui Custom Woodworks] joined the project. When Eddie got involved, the design moved to a higher level. The shape of the house was always the same, but the finishes got more sophisticated.”

The couple showed him photos of woodwork treatments they liked, Eddie says. “They asked me to take those ideas and make them even better. That’s the kind of challenge I enjoy.”

Left: Cabinetry with the distinctive grain of African wenge wood surrounds mounted Miele ovens and microwave. The kitchen island features an inset Wolf cooktop; the unusual light fixture suspended above it came from a marine supply store. Center: The pool deck offers a perfect vantage for watching the sun set behind the island of Lāna‘i. Above: A seated Buddha occupies a quartzite water feature outside the home’s main entrance. The piece was inspired by bagua, a symbol incorporating the eight trigrams of the I Ching.

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« AT HOME »

Mere steps from the kitchen is the open, airy dining room whose custom table is curly koa.

Above it hangs a classic two-tiered silk Fortuny chandelier from Venice, Italy.

Featuring original artwork by Robert Suzuki. For viewing, visit HUE's showroom. Contact Robert at 808-268-0630 or nobuoyo@aol.com.

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In the master suite, Eddie created an elegant dressing area, using richly hued African wenge wood. A platform of sleek African mahogany cradles the master bathtub, mirroring the sinks and cabinetry opposite. With input from Randy, Eddie even designed and built the master bed frame and a chest at its foot that conceals a pop-up TV. “Alex and Joan’s house is what I call a jewelry-box project,” Eddie says. “Every element is personal, and refined to the users’ particular needs.”

The home’s steep, double-pitched roofline allowed for vaulted ceilings and open crossbeams. Throughout the main living areas, bamboo-weave matting lines those ceilings; Alex sourced it in, of all places, Brooklyn, New York. “I looked everywhere, but had difficulty finding just what I was looking for,” he says. “This matting is like wallpaper, but soft and thicker.”

The home sits on agricultural land, zoning that required submitting a farmplan application to Maui County’s Planning Department. “When we lived on the East Coast, we had a fully landscaped, threeacre property,” says Alex. “So we knew going in what it means to take on something this big.” He now grows and sells tropical trees, most of them located on the lower portion of the property: upwards of sixty plumerias of different varieties and colors, fifty coconut palms, thirty foxtail

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Decisions, Eritium velitatus, decisions: nusTo audaes shower maximooutside, or lest, soak quatet in the atur master alic test bath’s volut tub. enia Below: quaeA guest volupici room’s imoluptatio. commissioned Sitibusda mural quati echoes offic the tecerfe property’s rsperum flowering untis in trees—one reium facium more facway cati the berum, home quo brings dis aut thequia outdoors cum inin.et ius

palms, several rare white tacoma trees, and numerous fruit trees. “We designed the landscape so you can drive a truck onto the lawn and park near the tree you need to dig up,” Alex explains. They’re of such high quality that Chris Curtis, who was Alex and Joan’s landscape architect, stops by occasionally to purchase some for jobs he’s working on.

Viewed from the air, the property resembles a lush oasis in the middle of a desert. “One day when I was surfing, I met Mike Essner, who owns Fusion Irrigation Hawai‘i,” Alex recalls. “I mentioned what I was doing with the property, and Mike said, ‘I’ve got just what you need.’ I became his first customer.” Mike installed a variable-rate “fertigation” system that uses organic liquid fertilizer to lower the alkalinity of the irrigation water, which

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results in quicker water saturation and improved plant health. “I can’t prove it, but I believe I use about half the water I would without Mike’s system,” Alex says.

The home’s architecture pays homage to the steep-roofed hale (houses) of old Polynesia, and the use of shake shingles lends a woodsy quality. Knowing that this choice also makes the dwelling more susceptible to wildfires, Alex installed fire hoses that can gush water at 100psi all around the house. “If you’re going to have a shake roof in Lahaina, you have to be prepared.”

The roof’s support beams and rafter tails are all solid mahogany. “We took the time to finish the beams and tails properly,” Alex says. “Even though they sit out here in the sun all the time, we don’t have a single crack.”

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Eritium velitatus, nus audaes maximolest, quatet atur alic test volut enia quae volupici que t volut enia quae volupici que

The couple and their architect give high praise to building contractor Jaime Lobato of Structures, Inc., for carrying out their collective vision. “Jaime put a lot of thought into everything, and was very patient,” Alex says. “Jaime pays a lot of attention to detail,” adds Randy. “He accumulated several notebooks about the project.

Elements like the rafters and trim on the front porch may look simple now, but it was a time-consuming process. It’s really complicated to get everything to line up just right.”

The couple’s own patience has paid off.

“We didn’t mind taking the time to make this home ours,” says Alex. “Joan and I are both particular. We once lived without furniture for years in a house on the East Coast, because we couldn’t find just what we liked. Some people may think certain things in this house are quirky, but they’re what we wanted.”

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« AT HOME »

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Above: This aerial photo clearly defines the home’s three distinct sections, and the landscaping that creates privacy without disrupting views. More than a hundred tropical trees surround the house, and all of them are for sale. Left: Eddie Takayesu of Maui Custom Woodworks created the cabinet at the foot of the master bed that conceals a pop-up television. All three of the home’s bedrooms feature outdoor seating areas.

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This does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of an offer to buy a unit. Nor is it an offering or solicitation of sale in any jurisdiction where the development is not registered in accordance with applicable law or where such offering or solicitation would otherwise be prohibited by law. Obtain all disclosure documents required by applicable laws and read them before signing anything. No governmental agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of the development. Further, ownership of a unit in the development will be subject to the terms of various documents relating to the development. The resort project described herein (the “Project”) and the residential units located within the Project (the “Residential Units”) are not owned, developed, or sold by Montage Hotels & Resorts, LLC, its affiliates or their respective licensors (collectively, “Montage”) and Montage does not make any representations, warranties or guaranties whatsoever with respect to the Residential Units, the Project or any part thereof. Island Acquisitions Kapalua LLC uses the Montage brand name and certain Montage trademarks (collectively, the “Operator Trademarks”) in connection with the sales and marketing of the Residential Units in the Project under a limited, non-exclusive, non-transferable and non-sublicensable license from Montage. The foregoing license may be terminated or may expire without renewal, in which case neither the Residential Units nor any part of the Project will be identified as a Montage branded project or have any rights to use the Operator Trademarks.

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Coconut Grove 9 • 3br/3ba • 2,312 sqft Kapalua Bay Villas 12B3 • 1br/1.5ba • 995 sqft Kapalua Bay Villas 14B1 • 1br/1ba • 1006 sqft* Kapalua Bay Villas 17B1-2 • 2br/3ba • 1,892 sqft Kapalua Bay Villas 17B3 • 1br/2ba • 995 sqft Kapalua Bay Villas 36G1-3 • 2br/3ba • 1,529 sqft* Kapalua Bay Villas 38B2 • 2br/3ba • 1,447 sqft Kapalua Ironwoods 104 • 2br/3ba • 2,071 sqft Kapalua Golf Villas 15T5-6 • 1br/2ba • 972 sqft Kapalua Golf Villas 19T6-7 • 2br/2ba • 1,344 sqft Kapalua Ridge Villas 815 • 1br/2ba • 1,162 sqft* Kapalua Ridge Villas 1623 • 1br/2ba • 1,150 sqft* Kapalua Ridge Villas 1521 • 1br/2ba • 1,125 sqft Montage Residences 5202 • 3br/3.5ba • 2,789 sqft Montage Residences 1205 • 3br/3.5ba • 2,789 sqft

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202 Paia Pohaku Unit A • 4br/5ba • 3,676 sqft • 2.37 Acres* 202 Paia Pohaku Unit B •2br/2ba • 999 sqft • 2.37 Acres* Sold* Pending Sale**

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In Hawaiian, ka‘ana means to share.

In Manhattan, it meant rave reviews.

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Dining STORY BY BECKY SPEERE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIEKO HORIKOSHI

Opposite: Start with Wagyu hanger steak on a Thai-inspired green papaya salad, then pair it with an Upcountry Buck for a kickin’ food-and-cocktail experience. This page: Seared catch of the day sits atop sweet Kula corn succotash and sweet-pea purée.

Add the mineral and apple notes of a 2013 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis for a match made in heaven.

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It’s six in the morning and the sky is on fire with streaks of fuchsia, hot pink, and golden amber light. Buttery scones bake in the oven, dotted with bits of homegrown liliko‘i (passionfruit), strawberries and pohā (gooseberries), while a pot of Nicky Beans coffee brews. Why am I up so early, bustling about my kitchen?

Because MiJin Kang, the new chef de cuisine at Andaz Maui’s Ka‘ana Kitchen, is coming to my Huelo home.

I had the pleasure of tasting her cooking at the restaurant a few weeks earlier, and had brought to that dinner an omiyage (gift) of pohole (fiddlehead ferns) and bitter mugwort from my garden, which had piqued MiJin’s interest in a visit, farm-to-table advocate that she is. And I’m eager to learn more about the Guamanianborn Korean. Not only does she hold one of the most sought-after culinary positions on Maui, but she joined Andaz’s Executive Chef Isaac Bancaco when they were recently invited to create a dinner at the prestigious James Beard House in New York. The honor to cook at the home of the late James Beard is the pinnacle for any culinarian, and MiJin’s new menu from Ka‘ana Kitchen highlighted the evening. (To no one’s surprise, the dinner sold out.)

As I wait for MiJin to arrive, I flash back to the dinner my husband, Chris, and I enjoyed at Ka‘ana Kitchen, one week after the select crew returned to Maui from their New York City triumph. . . .

The dining room is abuzz with energy as sommeliers circle the guests, offering their best wine and cocktail pairings. Servers pass by, on their way to delivering photo-worthy dishes, and cooks in the open kitchen flip food, fry, and deftly plate one of my favorites:

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ocean-sweet Big Island abalone with onsen egg on risotto, garnished with linnet-blue borage flowers and mellow-yellow baby corn shoots almost too pretty to eat.

Escorted to a chef’s table in the corner nearest the wine wall, we revel in the energy flowing from the young kitchen staff. Isaac and Executive Sous Chef Ritchard Cariaga stop by to warmly welcome us. Then Isaac says, “We want to prepare some of the dishes we served at the James Beard House.

That way you can get an idea of what MiJin has introduced on our menu.” When we ask him how she’s doing in her new position, he grins ear to ear. “MiJin has what it takes to operate a high-volume, high-quality restaurant, and perform at the level of the James Beard House. Creativity is her strong point.”

And that’s from the guy whose industry peers chose as 2014 Chef of the Year at Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi’s ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards.

Isaac introduces us to MiJin, and as he leaves, she asks, “Just to make sure, no allergies? You can eat everything, right?” Today’s chefs have to cope with the dining public’s increasingly diverse dietary preferences and concerns about food allergies. I answer, “Yes, we eat everything!” and MiJin’s smile, as she heads back to the kitchen, is one of relief and joy.

Soon she returns. “This is our Trader Vic’s-inspired, deconstructed coconut shrimp with pickled pohā berries and coconut curd,” she says. “It was one of four passed appetizers at the James Beard dinner.” Coconut milk has been reduced to a luxurious aioli consistency, and we are surprised to learn the dish is milk- and egg-free.

Crunchy, creamy and sweet-tart, it’s a perfect match for the apple notes and minerality of our 2014 Dönnhoff Riesling Kabinett.

“We used as much local product as we could in New York,” MiJin tells me. “We were able to showcase Kaua‘i shrimp, local ‘ahi, tako [octopus], Big Island-farmed abalone, and Malama Farms Berkshire pork; 80 percent of the ingredients we used at the James Beard House came from Maui.” That was quite a feat, considering the number of ice chests needed to transport the perishable goods that would feed seventy-five guests halfway around the world. The poke appetizer, traditionally prepared with limu (seaweed) and ‘inamona (roasted kukui nuts, Hawaiian salt, and chili pepper), and tossed with the freshest ‘ahi, got two thumbs up from the elite New York diners. MiJin shakes her head and laughs. “They loved that appetizer so much, the servers had to cut off some of the guests who ate three to four!”

CLAY WILLIAMS FOR THE JAMES BEARD FOUNDATION.

Left: Executive Chef Isaac Bancaco (center) takes charge in the James Beard House kitchen in NYC with members of his team: Ritchard Cariaga and MiJin Kang (left) and Jennifer Lazo (right). The Andaz crew flew in with ice chests filled with island ingredients for a May 19 dinner themed “Escape to Maui.” Middle row, left to right: Kona abalone on creamy risotto; poke (seasoned raw fish) in ceramic spoons.

Bottom row, left to right: Chef Ritchard’s braised Wagyu beef cheeks in a heady XO and peanut curry sauce; MiJin and Isaac chat with guests at the sold-out dinner.

Dining A swirl of somen noodles is blanketed by a sauce that marries mushroom, black sesame and garlic. It’s garnished with sweet and crunchy Maui cucumbers—and pairs perfectly with a glass of Dönnhoff Riesling Kabinett.

Below: A well-grounded kitchen philosophy and modern culinary interpretations guide über-talented MiJin Kang, Ka‘ana Kitchen’s chef de cuisine.

The next dish she serves us is MiJin’s ode to allergies. “I created a dish that has every food allergen known to man,” she says with a conspiratorial grin. “Plus, I have an affinity for black-colored food.”

The beautifully plated wheat somen noodles cloaked in black sesame mushroom sauce and garnished with a fan of sweet cucumbers and roasted peanuts is served at room temperature. John Weishaar, our sommelier, gently mixes the noodles with the mildly spiced, nutty-garlic sauce at tableside for us. We are glad to be sharing the generous portion. And good thing. MiJin has plans to unveil nine more dishes. . . .

“Hello!” MiJin calls out as she walks down the path to my door. I’m just taking the scones out of the oven, and the scent of butter and berries permeates the kitchen. She’s brought a jar of XO sauce— one of China’s greatest contributions to the culinary world. (“XO” is a distillate term meaning the best, top shelf.) MiJin makes hers with dried shrimp, scallops, fresh Kaua‘i shrimp, scallions and chilies. I vow to eat it with my next meal. We retreat to my teahouse, where she shares her background. “I attended the accelerated tenmonth program at Napa Greystone [Culinary Institute of America]; I already had a degree in food science and nutrition from the University of Illinois.” Sheepishly, she admits her reason for attending culinary school: “I wasn’t ready to pay my college loans. And the only way to defer them was to continue my education.”

At Greystone, MiJin found her passion. “I was in love with cooking. I threw myself into my studies and worked for one of the most inspirational chefs in Napa, Chef Hiro Sone at Terra. He opened my eyes to food combinations and platings, and, most importantly, the Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Sep–Oct 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Dining Island-style poke made with fresh ‘ahi, limu (seaweed) and Hawaiian salt earned high praise at the James Beard dinner.

value of quality ingredients. My foundation was built on his uncompromised kitchen philosophy. As I’ve grown into my own culinary style, I want to promote my [Korean] culture. The food I ate, growing up, is different from anyone else’s food. The connection to these flavors sets my ideas apart from others. When my kitchen team presents me with new ideas, it’s exciting to reach into my memory bank of flavors and meld those to foods they were raised with.”

So, where does a group of chefs from Maui—who have just prepared food for some of the world’s most sophisticated diners—decide to eat while they’re in NYC? When I ask MiJin, she becomes even more animated. “We got to meet Chef Deuki Hong, the coauthor of the acclaimed book Koreatown. We talked about bringing him to Maui for one of our Chef Bloc dinners [an intimate dining concept Isaac brought to Andaz Maui in 2014]. Up until now, we’ve showcased some of Hawai‘i’s top chefs. In our next round, we’re inviting chefs from [the continent] to share their knowledge and cuisine.” She adds, “We also convinced Deuki to demonstrate kim-chee making one day before the dinner.” Knowing MiJin’s passion for the food of her Korean

heritage, I can bet that she will not only taste Deuki’s cuisine, but will create and recreate more inspired dishes for her tour de force at Ka‘ana Kitchen.

Deuki Hong, executive chef at New York City’s Kang Ho Dong Baekjong, will collaborate on a December 10 Chef Bloc dinner at Ka‘ana Kitchen for twenty-four guests. His kim-chee demonstration is scheduled for December 9. For information and reservations, contact the resort’s guest services at 808-243-4795, or AndazMaui.com.

SAVOR THE MEAL. DEVOUR THE VIEW. Dining worthy of the paradise that surrounds it. Located in the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea.

For reservations 808-879-2999 or visit wolfgangpuck.com

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Dining » BECKY’S BACKYARD

THE NUTTY CHEF STORY BY BECKY SPEERE PHOTOGRAPHY BY TORI SPEERE

I live on Maui’s rain-forested north shore, where kukui, macadamia and Malabar chestnuts sprout with no coaxing, soil supplements, or even “good” soil. And since I’m always on the lookout for nutritious, locally grown food, I can’t help but share my joy of foraging for nuts.

This season, I’ve had friends practically beg me to come harvest their macadamia nuts. (One acquaintance has seventy trees and an out-of-control nut situation.) What to do with them all? Here are some ideas. If you can’t find kukui or Malabar chestnuts, mac nuts will work just fine. Go nuts!

Kukui (Aleurites moluccana) The candlenut tree

is a “canoe crop,” introduced by the Polynesians who settled these islands around 500 to 600 A.D. Those early Hawaiians used every part of the plant, especially the nut and its oil, from which they derived medicines, varnish, and fuel for light. As food, the

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Kukui nuts appear here in various stages; the meat has a flavor similar to Brazil nuts.

Hawaiians made a reddish-brown kapa dye from the pulp surrounding the nut.

Just steps from the water’s edge.

Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!

Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com

The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours.

505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com

a restaurant created by a man who loves to eat Serving Hawai‘i Since 1976

F

Best Award of Excellence Wine Spectator

Best Breakfast in Hawai‘i Zagat Survey

Restaurant of Distinction Honolulu Magazine Hale ‘Aina Award

Best Restaurant Honolulu Advertiser I‘lima Award

Best Italian Restaurant The Maui News “Best of Maui” Award

Best Mediterranean BEST Guidebook

‘Aipono Icon Award, Bob Longhi Maui No Ka ‘Oi Magazine

L A H A I N A / 8 8 8 F r o n t S t r e e t / 8 0 8 . 6 6 7. 2 2 8 8 WAILEA / The Shops at Wailea / 808.89 1.8883 HONOLULU / Ala Moana Center / 808.944.3733

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Dining » BECKY’S BACKYARD kukui nut is best known as an ingredient in a relish called ‘inamona; a small amount of the pounded, roasted nutmeat, sea salt, and sometimes chili pepper are added to sliced raw fish and the seaweed limu kohu for a traditional poke dish. The raw nut is said to have a laxative effect, and the oil can be an irritant, but I add roasted nuts to my granola, and have never experienced a problem.

To process wild-harvested kukui nuts, first remove any green-brown husk, then place the nuts in a bowl of water, throwing away any that float. Sun-dry the rest for thirty days, or dehydrate them at 150 degrees for eight hours. Roast them at 325 degrees for ten to fifteen minutes, or until the meat is golden. Crack the shell and remove the meat. Use immediately, or freeze for later use.

Find more information on kukui at MauiMagazine. net/nutty-chef.

Malabar Chestnut

(Pachira glabra) Originally from Central and South America, this member of the Malvaceae (mallow) family is most commonly known as the ornamental “money tree.” The seeds taste like a cross between a fresh pea and roasted peanuts, and can be eaten raw, cooked, or ground into flour to make bread or mixed into a hot drink. The cooked leaves and flowers are also edible. Researchers in the Department of Chemistry and Molecular Biol-

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ogy at Brazil’s Federal University of Ceará removed the germ, processed the meat into a milk, and found it high in protein (16 percent) and fats (40 to 60 percent), with levels of essential amino acids higher than in chicken eggs, human or cow milk.

I’ve sprouted Malabar chestnuts and used them in stir-fry with other vegetables and enjoyed the crunch of the seed and mildly sweet, nutty flavor. I also love to eat them fresh out of the husk as I stand under the shade of my twenty-foot tree. Chances are slim, but you may have a friend who has a tree in their yard.

Your best bet may be to buy a tree and grow it in a large planter. In five years, you’ll be eating nuts!

Top: From husking to shelling, preparing macadamia nuts is time-consuming, but so worth the effort. Center: These Malabar chestnuts are ready to eat as soon as you remove the thin outer parchment surrounding the meat.

Bottom: Maui resident Brian Sato rocks—he carved this stone to hold the nut in place, making it easier to crack the thick shell.

TOP (2): TORI SPEERE; BOTTOM: BRIAN SATO

Macadamia Nut

(Macadamia integrifolia) Aboriginal Australians know the fruit of this indigenous tree, a member of the Proteaceae family, as bauple, gyndl and boombera. I grew up knowing it simply as “mac nuts,” and bruised many a finger while pounding the hard shell with a lava rock to get to the sweet meat.

Today, that “tough nut to crack” has come a long way: the extracted oil is valued in skin-care products, thanks to its antioxidant, omega-3 properties and compounds that simulate the skin’s natural sebum.

Maiden Hawaii Naturals uses the oil as a base in insect repellent (available at Biodiesel.com).

Who are we kidding? Eating them is best! Whether dipped in chocolate, roasted with salt, or baked into desserts, macadamia nuts are arguably Hawai‘i’s most revered export, part of the local economy and diet since they arrived in the islands 150 years ago. No time to forage? Shop for them Saturday mornings at the Upcountry Farmers Market near Longs Drugs in Pukalani, where you can also buy probiotic mac-nut spreads by Maui Ola. (Try the red pepper, my fave.)

Want more? Fairmont Kea Lani’s Executive Chef Tylun Pang included mac-nut-crusted mahimahi in his book What Maui Likes to Eat. Find the recipe at Maui Magazine.net/macadamia-nut-crusted-mahimahi. Or buy the book at Amazon.com; proceeds benefit the University of Hawai‘i’s Maui Culinary Academy.

And if you’d rather have someone else do the cooking, check our Dining Highlights recommendations in the July-August 2016 issue.

UNCOMPROMISING SINCE 1985

NICK’S Best Service, Best Wine List SARENTO’S Most Romantic Setting

Founder/CEO Aaron Placourakis was raised around great food. And like all Greeks, he was instilled with the belief that “family” isn’t limited to close relatives, but includes all who are gathered around the table. It’s an approach that’s perfected by his team, who greet you at the door as a friend.

We invite you to join us. Be a part of the family. Create unforgettable memories in the most spectacular settings on earth. And rediscover the joy of good living.

Maui’s premier seafood restaurant Happy Hour Nightly 808 879-7224 | Wailea NicksFishmarketMaui.com

Spectacular dining steps from the beach Happy Hour Nightly Serving breakfast and dinner 808 875-7555 | Kihei

SarentosOnTheBeach.com

Dining » CHEF’S KITCHEN

TORO! TORO! TORO! STORY BY BECKY SPEERE PHOTOGRAPHY

BY JOSE MORALES

MORIMOTO’S TORO TARTARE WITH DASHI SOY Servings: 4 | Prep Time: 1 hour This classic Morimoto sashimi dish focuses on freshness. Note: Keep tuna very cold until time to prepare and serve.

Dashi-soy Sauce Fifteen Maui restaurants gave it their ‘onolicious best at the Kapalua Wine & Food Festival’s grand finale, the Seafood Festival held at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, on June 12, 2016. At stake: The Best of Fest award sponsored by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine.

Attendees feasted on seafood from A to Z (or at least from ‘ahi to toro), while guest chef and James Beard Foundation Awardwinning cookbook writer Hugh Acheson, Alaska Airlines regional sales manager Daniel Chun, MNKO publisher Diane Haynes Woodburn, and I, your humble dining editor, sampled and judged the many dishes. And the winner was. . . .

A very surprised Greg Harrison, executive chef at Morimoto Maui, accepted the gold for his Zenlike toro (bluefin tuna belly) tartare. Holding his plaque and the prize of a new Shun sashimi knife, he bowed slightly and whispered, “Thank you. Thank you. I am

Diane Woodburn, Morimoto Maui Chef Greg Harrison, and Becky Speere

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humbled at being chosen. I am so glad you enjoyed it.”

This wasn’t Harrison’s first time being chosen. A graduate of Le Cordon Bleu, the Los Angeles native began working for Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto in 2011, and two years later helped open Morimoto Maui as executive chef.

“The handling of prized bluefin tuna is a long process,” Harrison told me. “We taste the fish and check the fattiness in the flesh, break it down to its primal parts and freeze the fish at minus seventy degrees.

The extreme low temperature creates the smallest ice crystals, helps to retain the fish’s natural color and texture, and kills any parasites and bacteria. On day two, we move the fish into a refrigerator set at thirty-two degrees; and day three, it is moved to a refrigerator set at forty degrees.

This process keeps our fish as fresh as the day it was caught.”

All the judges agreed: the high quality and freshness of the fatty toro, combined with the balanced flavors in the dashi sauce, made this simple dish a winner. Congratulations, Chef Greg Harrison and Morimoto Maui!

Congratulations, also, to silver awardwinner Chef Jin Hosono of Japengo for his seared kampachi on mountain yam chip with miso vinaigrette; and to Spago Executive Chef Cameron Lewark, whose spicy ‘ahi poke in a sesame miso cone and lobster agnolotti was voted fan favorite.

½ c. mirin 1 c. dashi stock (*Hon Dashi) ½ c. soy sauce

METHOD Boil mirin to cook off the

alcohol. Prepare dashi stock per package directions and combine all ingredients.

Cool.

Toro Tartare

4 oz. ‘ahi (center cut of the tuna) 4 oz. toro (tuna belly—if unavailable, use additional ‘ahi, top grade only)

METHOD Remove skin, sinew, and any

other inedible parts. Mince tuna finely.

Refrigerate until ready to plate.

Garnish

½ medium Maui onion, sliced thin oil for deep frying 4 Tbsp. powdered wasabi

METHOD Fry onion in oil until golden

brown and crispy. Drain on paper towels.

Mix wasabi with a little water for a malleable consistency.

Plating

Divide tartare among four plates. Drizzle one tablespoon of dashi-soy sauce around tartare and top with crisp fried onions and a small ball of wasabi. *Find Hon Dashi in the Asian section of your local grocery story.

Dining » MAUI MIXOLOGY Rye whiskey is an American spirit with a history as old as the United States. In fact, the Father of our Country built a distillery at Mount Vernon in 1798; by 1799, the year George Washington died, it produced nearly 11,000 gallons of whiskey distilled from a mix of barley, corn and rye. More than two centuries later, rye is still embraced by distillers and imbibers alike, and sprouting up on Maui in cocktails with tropical fruit and syrups.

RYE THOUGHTS

Courtesy of Andaz Maui’s Ka‘ana Kitchen | Yield: 1 cocktail 1 dash Angostura bitters ¾ oz. ginger syrup ¾ oz. fresh lime juice ½ oz. fresh pineapple juice 2 oz. Bulleit Rye Whiskey 1 oz. club soda lime wheel & ginger candy, to garnish Pour first 5 ingredients into a cocktail shaker, add ice, shake and strain over fresh ice. Add club soda. Garnish with a piece of ginger candy and lime wheel.

Julie Reiner [Andaz Maui’s beverage director] created the Upcountry Buck especially for us, both to pay homage to the classic buck category of drinks [which, like mules, contain ginger beer, fruit juice, and a base liquor], and to showcase our bountiful tropical surroundings.

Our strong, house-made Hawaiian ginger syrup pairs beautifully and holds its own against the spicy rye whiskey. The freshly squeezed lime and pineapple juice give the classic buck a Hawaiian twist, while a dash of Angostura bitters adds balance and body to the cocktail.

—Lehua Verkerke, mixologist, Ka‘ana Kitchen at Andaz Maui

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MILLION DOLLAR HIGHWAY Courtesy of Taverna | Yield: 1 cocktail 1 Kula strawberry, muddled in shaker ½ oz. rosemary syrup ½ oz. egg white ½ oz. lemon juice 1 oz. Bulleit rye whiskey

½ oz. Cynar ½ oz. club soda Angostura bitters, as needed 1 dried star-anise flower, to garnish absinthe-rinsed coupe glass

In a cocktail shaker, shake first six ingredients with ice. Add club soda, then double strain directly into the absinthe-rinsed coupe glass.

(Learn how at MauiMagazine.net/rye-whiskey-cocktails.) Gently add drops of Angostura to top of cocktail and drag a toothpick through it to create hearts. Float a whole star anise to garnish.

At Taverna, we wanted to create a drink whose rye flavor was more background than aggressive. The rosemary, Cynar (artichoke liqueur) and rye whiskey all play really nicely together. The Million Dollar Highway also showcases herbs and fruits of the islands. It is a slightly more feminine libation, but is still rich, smooth and vegetal. The name is a nod to my native region of southwestern Colorado, where the mountain passes provide breathtaking views.

—Tara Fontaine, beverage manager, Taverna

LEFT: COURTESY OF KA‘ANA KITCHEN; RIGHT: ANNA KIM

UPCOUNTRY BUCK

LOCAL FLAVORS EXPRESSED THROUGH CULINARY INNOVATION Sharing food with the people you love is a big part of traditional Hawaiian culture, and our fresh restaurant Ka’ana Kitchen serves up some of Maui’s best dishes family style. So grab your favorite humans, and share farm-to-table cuisine expertly prepared to stimulate your sense of adventure.

CALL US at +1 808 243 4750 to book your reservation.

The trademarks Andaz® and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. © 2016 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.

every raindrop every wind every sunrise every sunset captured in a bottle

mauiwine.com

808.878.6058

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dining guide »B = Breakfast »BR = Brunch » L = Lunch » D = Dinner »N = Dinner past 9pm » RR = Reservation recommended » $ = Average entreé under $15 »$$ = Under $25 »$$$ = Under $40 » $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2016

WEST SIDE ‘Āina Gourmet Market, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2800.

Chef James McDonald oversees this deli’s menu, right down to the sun-ripened tomatoes and Maui onions grown Upcountry at O’o Farm. Deli. B, L. $ Alaloa Lounge, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 RitzCarlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. This stylish bar attracts a cocktail generation as lovely as the views.

Sushi. D, N. $ Aloha Mixed Plate, 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322. Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha.

Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $ Amigo’s, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210.

Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, chile verde, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Huge portions.

Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ The Banyan Tree, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 RitzCarlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096. Savor a top-shelf

mai tai, an appetizer of seared scallops on cauliflower purée, and braised beef short ribs with kabocha squash and ali‘i mushrooms. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$

at this open-air beach house while dining on crab-andmacadamia-nut wontons or prime rib. Kid-friendly.

American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$

Black Rock Kitchen & Lounge, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808921-4600. Grilled catch of the day comes with coconut Moloka‘i purple sweet potato and ginger-spiced broccolini glazed with yuzu brown butter. Or try the New York strip steak with bleu cheese fondue and baked mashed potato. The mac-nut brittle bar is to die for. Kidfriendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, D. $$$

The Feast at Lele, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353. This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$

Cane & Canoe, Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681. Impressive steak program featuring filet mignon, American Wagyu rib-eye, and Australian lamb chops. Modern plantation-style bar offers light fare and full island-inspired restaurant menu. Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$–$$$$ Castaway Café, Aston Maui Kā‘anapali Villas, 45 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9091. A casual beachfront spot for local coffee and eggs Benedict with a view. At dinner, the chockablock wine cellar dresses up the simple, satisfying fare. American. B, L, D. $$ Cheeseburger in Paradise, 811 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4855. This family-friendly restaurant serves up Angus beef burgers, refreshing salads and fun mixology, all with great ocean views, live entertainment and aloha. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D, N. $$

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine ‘Aipono Award

Best Mexican Restaurant 2O15 GOLD Best Mexican Restaurant 2O16 Silver

Happy Hour 4-6 pm daily

Classic margarita $6 Mexican draft beer $3 Fairway shops in kA'Anapali sangritagrill.com 8 0 8 .6 6 2 .6000

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Choice Health Bar, 1087 Limahana Pl., Lahaina, 661-7711. Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are all made with fresh local ingredients. Daily specials, and an epic entrée with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red-pepper sesame sauce.

American. B, L. $

Fleetwood’s on Front St., 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. Pacific oysters with tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome, and a onepound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. American/British pub food. B, L, D $$–$$$$ Frida’s Mexican Beach House, 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287. Chalupas, fresh chili agua ‘ahi, and short-rib tacos served with ocean views and fresh mixology. Latin-inspired. L, D. $–$$ The Gazebo, Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-5621. Mac-nut pancakes, French toast and legendary fried rice served with an ocean view. Kid-friendly. American. B, L. $ Gerard’s, 174 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-8939.

Chef Gerard Reversade delights guests with Basque country fare. French. D. $$$$ Honokōwai Okazuya, 3600-D L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Honokōwai, 665-0512. Plate lunches piled high with two-scoops rice and mac salad fly out the door of this tiny takeout shop. Local Mixed Plate. No credit cards. L. $ Honu Seafood & Pizza, 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390. Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$

Cliff Dive Grill, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031.

Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$

Hula Grill, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636. Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy kiawe-grilled ono on fresh spinach, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music.

Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$

Cool Cat Café, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908.

Burgers, chicken, fish and more, all in a fifties-diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $

Japengo, Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4796. Authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood. Steak, too! Japanese. D, N. $$$

Dollies Pub & Café, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Kahana, 669-0266. Hand-pressed crusts and stoneoven pizzas highlight a menu ranging from cheese steak and meatball subs to Costa Rican salad. L, D, N. $–$$

Joey’s Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474. Try the braised short-rib pho atop rice noodles, corn and sweet peppers in rich ginger beef broth. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$

Drums of the Pacific, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234. Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly.

Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$

Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy.

Kā‘anapali, 661-0011. Dine in casual comfort with the Tiki Restaurant’s full-service menu, or challenge yourself to try all the offerings at the award-winning Sunday brunch. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$

Duke’s, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900. Imagine Old Hawai‘i

Kai Sushi, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. Chef Tadashi Yoshino and

lahaina fried soup his team work sushi magic. Large selection of Japanese saké. Sushi. D. $$$ Kimo’s, 845 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4811. Savor one of the island’s best mai tais on an oceanfront lānai. Opt for sweet basil fish or the 32-oz. prime rib. Save room for Hula Pie. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D. $$ Koa’s Seaside Grill, 839 Front St., Lahaina, 6677737. The folks at Gazebo run this oceanfront eatery, and serve the same famous breakfast menu from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Plus pulled-pork sandwiches, prime rib and mahimahi. American. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$

yakitori

pahole salad

star udon

garlic noodles

singapore noodles

steamed pork buns hapa ramen

ahi avo pad thai

sake cocktails

Kobe Japanese Steak House & Oku’s Sushi Bar, 136 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 667-5555. Flying shrimp, whirling spatulas and late-night karaoke make this longtime Lahaina icon fun. Kid-friendly. Sushi/ Japanese. D, N, RR. $$$ Lahaina Fish Co., 831 Front St., Lahaina, 6613472. Grab an oceanfront seat and dig into fresh mahi and sautéed scallops. Memorable tropical drinks, and happy hour from noon to 6 p.m. Pacific Rim. L, D. $$–$$$ Lahaina Grill, 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117. Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad; Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with vanilla-bean jasmine rice; or the famous Kona coffee roasted rack of lamb with coffee-cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selections and cocktails. Hawai‘i Regional. D, RR. $$$$ Lahaina Pizza Company, 730 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0700. Deep-dish pizza, hearty salads and sandwiches draw crowds to this relaxed hangout.

Live music nightly. American/Italian. L, D. $$ Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495. Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors like sesame crusted seared ‘ahi with shiitake mushroom butter soy sauce; and Korean gochujang risotto with salt and peppa’ mahi. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D, N. $$ Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600. The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw, and ice-cold beer or just-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance. After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie! American. B, L, D. $ Local Boys Shave Ice, 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476. This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. Shave Ice. $ See South Shore listing.

Longhi’s, 888 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2288. For breakfast at this open-air landmark, try the eggs Benedict on thick toasted French bread. For dinner, use the jalapeño cheese bread to sop up sauce served with the shrimp Longhi. Italian. B, L, D. $$$–$$$$ LuLu’s Lahaina Surf Club & Grill, 1221 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Lahaina, 661-0808. Creative dishes range from blackened ‘ahi Benedict to crispy shrimp tossed in honey-mac-nut aioli, to li hing mui barbecuedchicken flatbread. Kid-friendly. Asian-American. B, L, D, N. $$ Māla Ocean Tavern, 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 6679394. Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the healthMaui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Sep–Oct 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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dining guide conscious and the hedonistic at this surfside tavern.

Turtle sightings nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean.

BR (Sat & Sun), L, D. $$

the lobster ravioli or coconut-dusted mahi with Thailemongrass-peanut sauce on black mochi rice. Spectacular oceanfront dining. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$

Maui Sugar Shop, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 662-0033.

Delectable gluten-free, paleo and vegan delights like quiches, Belgian waffles, muffins, cakes and more.

Bakery/Café. B, L. $

Pailolo Bar & Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6673200. Spicy, homemade Bloody Mary will rev your engines in the morning. Excellent burgers, tacos, and appetizers, plus ice-cold beer on tap. American. B, L, D. $

Merriman’s Kapalua, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 6696400. Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create some of Maui’s most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, RR. $$–$$$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana, 669-9010. See South Side listing.

Myths of Maui, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6619119. Enjoy live music, Polynesian dance, and an islandinspired buffet, complete with unearthing of the kalua pig from the imu. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$ Ocean Pool Bar & Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200.

Kick back with a tropical cocktail and pūpū (appetizer) beside the pool; the paparazzi should be there shortly.

American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$–$$$

Penne Pasta, 180 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 6616633. Dig into flavorful, affordable pasta dishes while people-watching from this cozy spot tucked down a Lahaina side street. Kid-friendly. Italian. L, D, N. $$ Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636. Views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Pizza Paradiso Mediterranean Grill, 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929. Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$

Old Lāhaina Lū‘au, 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-1998. Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian.

Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance.

Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$

Plantation House Restaurant, 2000 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua, 669-6299. Rock your inner Cajun with Rising Star Chef Jojo Vasquez’s Kaua‘i shrimp ètouffée, prepared with Adoboloco’s Hamajang hot sauce and scallion-polenta cake with lime crème.

Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, L, D. $$$

Pacific’O, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341.

Owner Louis Coulombe’s decadent fish tacos and bahn mi sandwiches are memorable lunch fare. For dinner, try

Prison Street Pizza, 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 6623332. East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Captivating! Italian/Pizza. L, D. $

Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Island cuisine speaks Italian! Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with a sweet zeppole, tiramisu or budino. Closed Tues– Wed. Italian. D. $$$ Relish Burger Bistro, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525.

All-natural Kobe beef burgers, fish sandwiches, salads with island greens, and huli huli grilled chicken breast, served poolside in an open-air setting. Kid-friendly.

American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Relish Oceanside, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fried rice with Asian-style braised beef, fresh mahi atop luscious and cheesy risotto, and a great kale salad with chunky macadamia nuts. Reservations at Open Table.com. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$-$$$ Roy’s, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999. At lunch, line up for the best burger on Maui. For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled ginger. Save room for the signature Melting Hot Dark Chocolate Souffle. Pacific Rim. L, D. $$–$$$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Lahaina Center, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 661-8815. Steaks worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earn the chain loyal fans. This venue doesn’t stray from the flock.

Several tables overlook the harbor. American. D, N. $$$$ Sale Pepe, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667.

Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a

Award-Winning Oceanfront Dining

Molokai Sweet Potato Egg Frittata

Poke Nachos

Pineapple Tramisu

Private Dining

Gluten-free dining available Breakfast: 7am–2pm, Lunch: 9am–2pm, Dinner: 5:30pm–9pm Sea House Bar & Terrace: 8am–10pm, Happy Hour from 2pm–4:30pm Pupus from $6

808.669.1500 | www.seahousemaui.com 5900 Lower Honoapiilani Road, Napili, Hawaii 96761 | www.napilikai.com | Hours and service periods subject to change.

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Celebrating Over 50 Years at the Beach

Located at the beautiful Napili Kai Beach Resort | Celebrating Over 50 Years of Aloha

7/6/16 9:14 AM

dining guide menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta—like Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian/Pizza. D. $$ Sangrita Grill + Cantina, Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 662-6000. South of the Border goes upper crust with achiote-marinated ono grilled Yucatan style; fig-mole short ribs; and seafood Veracruz with shrimp, octopus, and fish simmered in tomato-Spanish-olive sauce. Mexican. L, D. $–$$ Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286. D.K. Kodama’s restaurant draws lines late into the night. Small and action-packed, this classy sushi bar is the place to try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$ The Sea House Restaurant, Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500.

Start your day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp while the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammywinner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack-key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Shark Pit Food Truck, 78 Ulupono St., Lahaina, 298-7776. Kabayaki meatball sub, steak or spicy shrimp tacos with Korean aioli, USDA Prime beef burgers and fresh catch on a taro brioche bun. Food Truck. L. $ Son’z Steakhouse, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Moroccanspiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon

carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, linecaught mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/ Steak. D, N. $$$$

chicken panang curry, and many vegetarian selections. Coconut mango sticky rice pudding will plunk you into tropical heaven. Thai. L, D. $–$$

Star Noodle, 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 6675400. Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 790 Front St., Lahaina. Homemade tropical-flavored syrups like liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart.

Additional West Maui locations: 819 Front St., Lahaina; and in the Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. Kid-friendly. Shave Ice. $

Taverna, 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426.

House-made pastas, agrodolce-style fish of the day, and Italian desserts that stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Beginning to end, Taverna is a dining heaven. Great wine, cocktails, and exotic craft beer. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111. The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance.

Follow their food truck on Facebook. Kid-friendly.

American. L, D. $ Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600. Start with Oyster Dan—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko— then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate.

Japanese/Steak. D, RR. $$$ Thai Chef, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814. This small, well-loved restaurant keeps fans coming back for more with commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $ Tiki Tiki Thai, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-9911/ 283-5202. Filet mignon in creamy Thai chili sauce,

‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos.

Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, D. $$$ Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525.

Fire dancers ignite the excitement, and hula dancers sway as you enjoy a Polynesian feast. Kid-friendly.

Lū‘au. D. RR. $$$$

SOUTH SHORE Amigo’s, 41 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 879-9952. See West Side listing.

Bistro Molokini, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh, local ingredients and served up in this casual, open-air eatery. Kid-friendly.

American. L, D. $$$

Kapalua just got delizioso!

2000 Village Rd. Kapalua TavernaMaui.com 808-667-CIAO (2426)

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dining guide Botero Bar, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures that surround it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays—when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20.

L, D, N. $ Café O’Lei, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368.

Choose from macadamia-nut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites.

American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Caffe Ciao Deli, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Healthy vegetarian fare, deli sandwiches and spectacular desserts abound at this take-out or eat-in deli. Espresso drinks, baked goods and house-made gelato, too. American/ Italian. B, L, D. $$ Coconuts Fish Café, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979. Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American.

L, D. $$ Cow Pig Bun, 535 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 8758100. If a Brandt premium beef burger slathered in foie gras butter, smokey bourbon-bacon jam and blue cheese makes you want to say, “Moo!” this is the place. Maui-style Comfort Food. L, D, N. $$ Duo, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Duo reinvents the classic “surf-n-turf.” Japanese Kobe tenderloin (the real thing) and dry-aged rib eye are a carnivore’s delight. Choose a strong wine to match your meat’s performance. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$$$

Eskimo Candy Seafood Market & Deli, 2665 Wai Wai Pl., Kīhei, 879-5686. Locals come for the rice bowl topped with poke mixes like shoyu, spicy wasabi and furikake. Plus fresh opah fish and chips with cabbage coleslaw. Seafood, Deli, Local. L, D. $-$$

Four Seasons Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. D, N, RR. $$$$

Fabiani’s Pizzeria & Bakery, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888. Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made pork-sausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. B, L, D. $$

Gannon’s, 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 8758080. Order drinks at the Red Bar, then enjoy Chef Bev Gannon’s fine comfort food: maple-vinaigrette chicken salad, or venison atop Parmesan risotto.

Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$

Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711. What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked for 15 hours over kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans, and cabbage slaws: one sweet-tart, one with blue cheese and apples.

American. L, D. $–$$

Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8751234. Carpaccio of Japanese hamachi with celeryginger shaved ice, watermelon salad with Surfing Goat Dairy cheese, crispy mahimahi on forbidden rice . . . love from first bite to last. Pacific Rim. D. $$$$

Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. For lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, D. $$$$

Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Start with grilled Wagyu hanger steak on green papaya salad, then charred octopus with local goat cheese. Next, Kona abalone on creamy risotto, or a modern interpretation of chicken and waffles. There’s a curated wine list with sommeliers to guide you in pairings, and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$

Five Palms, 2960 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2607.

Watch the whales cruise by and enjoy lobster-tempura sushi and baked artichokes—half-price from 3 to 6 p.m. Breakfast is generously served until 2:30 p.m.

American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Fork & Salad, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675.

Chef-owners Cody, Travis and Jared serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, glutenand dairy-free options. International. L, D. $

“WOW”

“...this is, by far, the best sushi I’ve ever had. So fresh and beautifully presented. Doesn’t hurt that they run their own fishing boat...”

– Jennifer P.

Kihei Caffe, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230.

Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.? Head down to this surfer hangout and load up on banana mac-nut pancakes, loco moco, and a cuppa joe. Café. B, L. $–$$ Da Kitchen, Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782. The Hawaiian plate feeds three normal appetites or one sumo-size eater. Plate-lunch favorites like chicken katsu, tempura fish, and Korean mixed plate won’t leave you wanting. Kid-friendly.

Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $ Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer, and “On the Rock”: three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, D. RR. $$$ Local Boys Shave Ice, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779. How to chill out in the Islands? Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with Plantation Era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut) and macadamia-nut ice cream. Shave Ice. $ Longhi’s Wailea, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883. Enjoy a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemon-feta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. B, L, D. $$$ Luana, Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210. This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kalua-pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce, and lomi lomi tomato paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$

Kahana - West Maui (808) 669-9010

Kihei - South Maui (808) 891-MISO (6476)

Kahana Manor, 4310 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy #111

Azeka Place Mauka, 1279 South Kihei Road #108

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Manoli’s Pizza Company, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499. Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppini or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna. Italian/Pizza. L, D, N. $$ The Market, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 8792433. Fresh-baked bread, breakfast, salads to go, charcuterie and sandwiches like the Haole Hoagie:

pepper-crusted turkey on sourdough with red-dragon cheese and cumin aioli. Coffee drinks sweetened with fresh-pressed sugarcane juice, and the cheese is made on Maui. Deli. L, D. $$

“Treat your friends like family & your family like friends” —Big Manoli

Matteo’s Osteria, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466. Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade.

Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Maui Thai Bistro, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8745605. Memorable kaffir-scented tom yum fried rice and green-mango salad with crispy fried fish filets and house curries. Thai food cooked by a Thai chef. Beer and wine bar. Thai. L, D. $–$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476.

Sushi served on site, to go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Japanese. L, D. $$ Monkeypod Kitchen, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322. Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen.

For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and banana-cream pie. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, N. $$ Morimoto Maui, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Iron Chef’s Masaharu Morimoto combines signature and Maui-centric dishes like rib-eye beef burgers and lobster roll sandwiches. Dinner catches fire with prix fixe omakase.

Handcrafted mixology and a dazzling selection of sakés. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $$$$ Nalu’s South Shore Grill, Azeka Shopping Center, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650.

Generous portions and locally sourced ingredients served with aloha. ‘Ahi club with smoked bacon, and fresh fish and chips will have you coming back for more. Burgers? Yes! American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$

Great pizza made with whole wheat or gluten-free crusts. Wide variety of appetizers, pastas, salads as well as daily Chef’s specials. Awesome burgers and sandwiches at lunchtime as well as homemade fries. We are passionate about using fresh, local, organic and sustainable products when available.

Nick’s Fishmarket, Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-7224. Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars.

Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. D, RR. $$$$ Pā‘ia Fish Market South Side, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888. The same yummy menu that for years has hooked surfers and families in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei, too. See North Shore listing.

The Pint & Cork, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 727-2038. This gastropub serves bahn mi, draft beer and epic mac and cheese. Late-night bar and pūpū (snacks). International. L, D, N. $-$$ Pizza Madness,1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 2709888. This family-style restaurant serves Cobb salad, hot and cold deli sandwiches with chips and a pickle, some of the best pizza this side of the Pacific, and pasta, too. Italian/Pizza L, D. $–$$

OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT Happy Hour From 3 pm - 6 pm & 9 pm - 12 am | 100 Wailea Ike Drive Located across from the Wailea Blue Golf Course Pro Shop

TAKEOUT & DELIVERY: 808.874.7499

Roasted Chiles, Azeka Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357. Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas!

Mexican. L, D. $-$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8948880. See West Side listing.

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dining guide Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004. See West Side listing.

Sarento’s on the Beach, 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555. Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, D. RR. $–$$$ South Shore Tiki Lounge, Kīhei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-6444. Gourmet pizza, burgers, salads, and several vegetarian items round out this hip bar’s menu. American. L, D, N. $ Spago, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Chef Cameron Lewark’s ‘ōpakapaka sashimi and perfectly seared Kobe beef match the trendsetting wine list note for note. Spectacular sunsets may as well be on the menu. Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Three’s Bar & Grill, 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133. Three’s serves eggs Benedict six different ways, like seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib.

For lunch, try Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen; for dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Pacific Rim/Southwest.

B, L, D. $$–$$$ Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8759983. Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, D, N. $–$$ Trilogy Excursions’ Sunset Dinner Sail, Mā‘alaea Harbor, 661-4743. Board a luxury catamaran for

Chef Bailey’s four-course dinner. Choose a rosemarygarlic-crusted steak on roasted garlic demi-glace, wild-caught mahimahi with lemon caper butter, or vegetarian pasta. Open bar with cocktails, Maui Brewery and wine selections. American. D. RR. $$$$

salad atop quinoa and tofu. The taro veggie burgers and the poi açai bowl with fresh fruit are a delicious spin on a local staple. Call in your order to expedite service. Maui-style, Takeout Only. B, L. $

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei. See West Side listing.

Fatt Chicks Burgers, Brews & Grill, 200 Halewaiu Rd., Waiehu, 242-6666. The 19th hole never tasted so good! Kim chee loco moco, bountiful salads and ‘ono burgers. Nuff said! Go eat! Pacific Regional. B, L. $

CENTRAL

Geste Shrimp Truck, Kahului Beach Rd., Kahului, 298-7109. Choices include Hawaiian scampi, hot and spicy, lemon pepper, and spicy pineapple shrimp, plus crab salad and rice. Food Truck. L, D. $

Amigo’s, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 872-9525. See West Side listing.

Aria’s Restaurant & Catering, 2062 W. Vineyard St., Wailuku, 242-2742. Luscious sandwiches, salads, and entrèes like braised chocolate chipotle lamb shank with maizena. American/Pacific Rim. B (Sat–Sun only), L, D (Mon–Sat). $–$$

Da Kitchen, Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782. See South Shore listing.

Marco’s Grill & Deli, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-4446. Head to Marco’s for a good Reuben, meatball parmigiano, or tiramisu. Italian. B, L, D. $$

Bistro Casanova, 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 873-3650. This downtown bistro branches out from its Upcountry sister, adding paella for two, fresh-cut French fries, and burrata Caprese to the menu. Mediterranean. L, D. $-$$

Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-2877. Eclectic art and brightly painted tables decorate this popular gathering spot. At Happy Cappy Hour, 2 p.m. to closing, cappuccinos are special price.

Coffee Shop. B, L. $

Café O’Lei, The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073. Mac-nut-crusted chicken, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites, served beside a links-style golf course overlooking West Maui’s mountain. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$

Maui Fresh Streatery, 137 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului (at Ilima Shell), 344-7929. Chef Kyle rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for other locations. Food Truck. L. $

Farmacy Health Bar, 12 Market St., Wailuku, 866-4312. Pono means excellence, which perfectly describes this organic eatery’s pono bowl: kale

The Mill House at Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333. Dine at

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dining guide the coffee shop, restaurant, or weekend chef’s table, and discover some of Maui’s most creative culinary fare, from creamy coconut jook with Kula Farm green beans, to beef ragu gnocchi with thyme curd. Chef Jeff Scheer’s harmony of flavors will woo you back for more. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $–$$$ Las Piñatas, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 877-8707.

Home of the famous Kitchen Sink burrito, plus tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas, and a self-serve salsa bar. Ole! Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ Poi by the Pound, 385 Ho‘ohana St., Kahului, 2839381. Eat like a local. Hawaiian. L, D. $ A Saigon Cafe, 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 2439560. Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot or Buddha rolls and lemongrass curry. The comedic servers don’t miss a beat. Vietnamese. L, D. $ Sam Sato’s, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2447124. This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L. $ Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 8930026. See West Side listing.

Tin Roof, 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753. Sheldon Simeon of Bravo TV’s Top Chef fame lets you build your own kau kau bowl with his savory offerings: sweet Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter and kochujang sauce; seared furikaki-crusted fish with wasabi mayo and soy, and more. Pacific Rim. L. $–$$ TJ’s Warehouse, 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 244-7311.

Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves up plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and

a hot line of daily specials, such as potato croquettes, nishime and poke, too. Asian. B, L. $ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku.

Wailuku Coffee Company, 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259. Espresso, ice cream and sandwiches in a relaxed setting. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Whole Foods Market, Maui Mall, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 872-3310. All things fresh and healthy.

Order from the deli or construct your own meal from the salad and hot-food bars. Get it to go, or dine here inside or out. B, L, D. $ Zing, Main Street Promenade, 2050 Main St., Wailuku, 244-3707. Salads, soups and sandwiches are served with fresh local ingredients—like the portobello mushroom sandwich with applewood-smoked bacon . . . need we say more? American. B, L, $

UPCOUNTRY Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli, 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220. Order a tartufo pizza or carbonara pasta at this Upcountry institution. Kid-friendly. Italian/Pizza. B, L, D. $$ Farmacy Health Bar, Pukalani Terrace Center, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 868-0443. See Central listing.

Grandma’s Coffee House, 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140. The eggs Benedict and made-from-scratch

Fairmont_KeaLani_Ko_MNKO_Oct2016_7.05x4.785_Final.indd 1

baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion.

Coffee Shop. B, L, Snacks. $$-$$$ Hāli‘imaile General Store, 900 Hāli‘imaile Rd., Hāli‘imaile, 572-2666. Chef Bev Gannon dishes up fresh fish, local meats, and regional produce drenched in complex sauces. The towering sashimi appetizer is legendary. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ La Isla Mexican Tamales, Pukalani Terrace Center, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 572-8258. Tamale lovers and local plate-lunch eaters unite! Great food, reasonable prices. Local/Mexican. L, D. $ Kula Bistro, 4566 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 8712960. Big fat sandwiches on focaccia, Upcountry salad greens with house balsamic vinaigrette, and buttery scallop appetizers will have you swooning.

Fresh-fish entrèes and juicy burgers, too. American/ Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ Market Fresh Bistro, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-4877. Chef Justin Pardo brings a passion for sustainable food to this courtyard gem. Try a breakfast frittata or pan-roasted crab cakes with corn succotash. Dinner Thursday through Saturday. Call for dates on special farm dinners. American. B, L, D. $–$$ O’o Farm, 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour.

Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and fresh-roasted coffee in this bucolic setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L. $$$$

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Polli’s Mexican Restaurant, 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-7808. The sign outside says, “Come in and eat, or we’ll both starve!” Follow that advice to find entrees like kitchen-sink burritos and grilled carne asada plates with refried beans and Spanish rice.

Mexican. L, D. $$ La Provence, 5355 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313.

The glass case overflows with perfect croissants, fruit tarts, and arguably the world’s best blueberrymango scones. On weekends, muscle past Kula’s longdistance cyclists to order a Benedict or salmon-pesto crêpe. No credit cards. French/Bakery. B (Wed-Fri), BR (Sat-Sun), L (Wed-Fri), D (Thur-Sun). $ Ulupalakua Ranch Store & Grill, 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561. Across from Maui Winery, find great deli fare, and hot-off-the-grill lamb burger with tzatziki, grass-fed elk, venison or beef burgers. Plus homestyle chili and rice, or kalua pork plate lunch. American. B, L, D. $

NORTH SHORE Café Des Amis, 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 5796323. Savory crêpes are served with wild greens and sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney and raita, Indian yogurt sauce. Dine indoor Kidfriendly. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $ Colleen’s at the Cannery, 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211. Sink into a comfy booth and enjoy a roasted eggplant sandwich on homemade bread.

The pizza is a well-loved standard. Kid-friendly.

American/Pizza. B, L, D. $-$$.

Flatbread Company, 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989. Big booths, charity nights, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies have made this a North Shore institution. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$ Hāna Ranch Provisions, 71 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 868-3688. The name says it all: the freshest produce, fish, and Hāna-raised beef. Well, almost all: add the name of premier chef Gary Johnson. Asian Fusion.

B, L, D. $–$$$ Maka by Mana, 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 5799125. Coconut-cream stacker with balsamic reduction, vegan burgers, tempeh Reuben . . . this is vegan and vegetarian fare so delicious, it could make a meat lover cross over. Vegetarian. L, D, RR. $ Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488. Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine.

Every detail evokes old-time island hospitality. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, RR. $$$$ Milagro’s, 3 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8755. The corner of Baldwin and Hāna Highway can’t be beat for people-watching. Sample fine tequilas and dig into ‘ahi tacos with sweet-spicy salsa. Mexican. L, D. $$ Nuka, 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939. Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Tempura shrimp udon is light and crispy. Save room for blacksesame or green-tea ice cream. Japanese. D. $$-$$$ Pā‘ia Fish Market, 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030.

The huge slabs of fresh fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the long line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $

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HĀNA Barefoot Café, 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732.

Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or mahimahi plate lunch to go. Pacific Rim. B, L. $ Hana Burger Food Truck at Hana Ranch, 5670 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 268-2820. Grass-finished beef burgers, fish sandwiches and salads. American/ Food Truck. L. $–$$ The Preserve Kitchen + Bar, Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401. Hāna-sourced produce and fish are the basis for an original menu by Chef Jay Johnson. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juices and sours. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $–$$$

ISLAND OF LĀNA‘I Lāna‘i City Grille, Hotel Lāna‘i, 828 Lāna‘i Ave., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-7211. Asian-influenced cuisine is served in cozy comfort in a historic inn. Try the crab cake appetizers with spicy aioli, and fresh fish over rice pilaf. Asian/American. D, RR. $–$$$ Lāna‘i ‘Ohana Poke Market, 834A Gay St., Lāna‘i City, 808-559-6265. Tucked down a side street off Dole Park, this no-frills venue serves great local grinds like spicy poke bowls with furikake, and teri beef combo plate lunches. Hawaiian. L. $ Malibu Farm, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., 808-565-2000. Organic, farm-to-table fare and a sweeping ocean view. Start with quinoa oatmeal with coconut milk. For lunch, try the Caesar BLT salad or a burrata fruit salad with arugula, mango, papaya and candied mac nuts. American. B, L, $$–$$$.

Nobu Lāna‘i, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Rd., 808-565-2832. Celeb chef Matsuhisa-san has handed the knife and hashi (chopsticks) to Chef Marlowe Lawenko at this beautiful open-air restaurant. Prepare to be amazed. Japanese. D, RR. $$–$$$$ One Forty, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., 808-565-2000. Begin your day with creamy baked oatmeal with fresh fruits, muffins and croissants; or grilled ‘ahi with chipotle-hollandaise eggs Benedict. For dinner, try Chef Kemar Durfield’s beef filet with lobster-mashed potatoes; or moi, the fish of Hawaiian royalty, with taro gnocchi, papaya and pohole salad. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$–$$$$ Pele’s Other Garden, 811 Houston St., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-9628. Big deli sandwiches, calzones, pizza, pasta, beer and wine. Deli/Italian. L, D. $–$$ Views at Mānele Golf, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Challenge Dr., 808-565-2000. Lunch goes light and bright with fresh ‘ahi atop arugula, frisée and fiddlehead fern shoots. For heartier appetites, there’s Wagyu skirt steak with charred corn, Mexican cotija cheese and creamy avocado dressing. At lunch or pau hana, sip a cacao mojito or a guava mint lemonade.

Hawai‘i Regional. L, $$–$$$ The Sports Bar, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Rd., 808-565-2499. Platters overflowing with baba ganoush, hummus, tabouleh and feta; and not-to-bemissed Jidori chicken wings with creamy blue cheese dip. Long-simmered Lāna‘i venison ragout over pappardelle will prepare you for your day on the greens.

Mediterranean. L, D. $$–$$$ More lisitings: MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Sep–Oct 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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calendar

LOOKING FOR MORE? VISIT MAUIMAGAZINE.NET/MAUI-EVENTS

From left: Kū Mai Ka Hula, September 10 | Sergio Mendes, September 15 | Nā Mele O Hawai‘i—The Golden Years, September 3

SEPTEMBER DAILY

Native Plant Tours Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Brochures for self-guided tours are included with admission fee; audio wands are for rent; docent-led group tours are $10 per person, by appointment. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

Veary, Marlene Sai, and Keola and Moanalani Beamer. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

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Kalo Workshop Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Nameaaea Hoshino teaches how to cultivate, prepare, and cook all parts of the kalo (taro) plant. 10 a.m.-1 p.m.

150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

Opening reception Sept. 9, 5-8 p.m. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; HuiNoeau.com

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Kū Mai Ka Hula Castle Theater, MACC Dancers from Hawai‘i and beyond compete in modern and traditional hula. 1 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; Maui Arts.org

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Maui Jazz & Blues Festival Royal Lahaina Resort Award-winning musicians perform at venues around Maui; main concert is Sept. 10, 5 p.m., at the Royal Lahaina in Kā‘anapali. Info at MauiJazzAndBluesFestival.com

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Blue‘Āina Reef Cleanup Lahaina Harbor Trilogy Excursions hosts this underwater cleanup along Maui’s reefs. 9 a.m.-1 p.m. The suggested $30 donation benefits various nonprofits. SailTrilogy.com

Septemb Reaching Out—Collaborations Viewpoints Gallery Artists explore the endless possibilities that arise from collaborating with someone in the community. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; Viewpoints GalleryMaui.com

THROUGH NOVEMBER 6

Hawai‘i National Parks Centennial Exhibition Schaefer International Gallery, Maui Arts & Cultural Center (MACC) This juried show celebrates the 100-year anniversary of the National Parks of Hawai‘i. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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Maui Channel Swim This 9.8-mile relay from Lāna‘i concludes at the beach fronting Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel. Come watch!

Info at MauiChannelSwim.com

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Nā Mele O Hawai‘i—The Golden Years Castle Theater, MACC Nā Hōkū-winner Uluwehi Guerrero presents Hawaiian music and hula with Hālau Hula Kauluokalā, Emma

FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES Each week, a different Maui town hosts music, artists’ demos, children’s activities and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m. It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike.

Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com

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Pink Martini Castle Theater, MACC The dance floor will be open for this savvy, eclectic, multilingual performance. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Demystifying the Kuahu McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Maui kumu hula (hula teachers) open 2016’s Kū Mai Ka Hula competition with an intimate conversation on the kuahu hula (hula altar). 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

NOVEMBER 10

Mālama Wao Akua Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center This multimedia exhibit explores native flora and fauna, with talks by researchers and conservationists.

Sept 2, Oct 7 Sept 9, Oct 14 Sept 16, Oct 21 Sept 23, Oct 28 Sept 30

First Friday Wailuku Second Friday Lahaina Third Friday Makawao Fourth Friday Kīhei Fifth Friday Lāna‘i

Spyro Gyra Castle Theater, MACC Founding members Jay Beckenstein and Tom Schuman perform the contemporary-jazz sound that won Spyro Gyra multiple Grammy and Lifetime Achievement awards. 6 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

Sergio Mendes Castle Theater, MACC One of the most internationally successful Brazilian artists of all time, this three-time Grammy winner has recorded more than 35 albums. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Sublime with Rome A&B Amphitheater, MACC This legendary ska-punk-reggae band will share the stage with supporting acts Eli-Mac and ManaLion.

6 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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Chinese Moon Festival Wo Hing Museum Celebrate Maui’s agricultural harvest and rich cultural history during this festival featuring Chinese tea and moon cakes, lantern making, calligraphy, music and more. Museum hours are 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Moon Festival activities begin at 1 p.m. 858 Front St., Lahaina; 661-3262; LahainaRestoration.org

COURTESY OF THE MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

THROUGH SEPTEMBER 30

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Mai Poina: The Overthrow McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Hawai‘i Pono‘ī Coalition’s production recounts the tumultuous last days of the Hawaiian monarchy from the perspective of native Hawaiians and other citizens of the kingdom. A discussion follows. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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‘Apu ‘Awa Workshop Maui Nui Botanical Gardens In early Hawai‘i, ‘awa was a ceremonial drink.

Ko‘ikuokalani Lu teaches how to make an ‘apu ‘awa (a cup for ‘apu ceremonies) from a coconut shell. 10 a.m.

150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

1718

Maui Marathon This oceanfront marathon starts Sunday at Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center in Kahului and ends at Whalers Village in Kā‘anapali. Front Street Mile, 5K and 10K races are on Saturday. Details at MauiMarathonHawaii.com

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Ultimate Ocean Vodka Cocktail Showdown Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, Kā‘anapali Celebrity chefs and finalists mix and muddle their way to cocktail supremacy. Winning cocktail will be on Sheraton’s menus for one year. OceanVodka.com

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Park Perspectives McCoy Studio Theater, MACC A discussion on the history and conservation of our national parks. 10 a.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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Chick Corea Trio Castle Theater, MACC Grammy-winning keyboardist Chick Corea performs with legendary bassist Eddie Gomez and drummer Brian Blade. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

ber 30

OCTOBER 16

Boeing Boeing Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui OnStage presents this 1960s French farce. 7:30 p.m. Fridays & Saturdays; 3 p.m. Sundays. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-6969; MauiOnStage.com

OCTOBER

1

Paddle for a Cure Hanakao‘o Beach Park, Kā‘anapali Hyatt Regency Maui cosponsors this event to raise breast-cancer awareness and funds for Susan G. Komen Hawaii. Participants paddle from the beach park to Whalers Village and back. 7 a.m.-1 p.m. Crowd Rise.com/MauiPaddle16

1

‘Ukulele Workshop McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Roy and Kathy Sakuma teach beginning to intermediate players, who will perform a song at Sunday’s Maui ‘Ukulele Festival. 10 a.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

2

Maui ‘Ukulele Festival A&B Amphitheater, MACC Relax in an open-air setting and enjoy a free concert by acclaimed musicians; ‘ukulele door prizes, arts and crafts, and island foods for purchase. 1-6 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

69

Maui Fair War Memorial Complex One of Maui’s best-loved traditions, the fair feaMaui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Sep–Oct 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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& 2930 Disney’s Peter Pan Jr.

Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui Onstage presents a youth musical production of this classic tale. Oct. 22 & 29, 11 a.m.; Oct. 23, 1 p.m.; Oct. 30, 2 p.m. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-6969; MauiOnStage.com

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Xterra Trail Runs The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua Go off-road during 5K and 10K races, and a Keiki K race for young runners. Races start at 9 a.m. Oct. 23 at 9 a.m., watch pros from around the world compete in the Xterra Triathlon World Championship. 1 Ritz Carlton Drive; XterraPlanet.com

Octobe 15

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tures local foods, entertainment, midway rides and games, livestock, horticulture, crafts and more.

Ka‘ahumanu & Kanaloa avenues, Wailuku; MauiFair.com

Air Supply Castle Theater, MACC Graham Russell and Russell Hitchcock are the softrock duo who have captivated audiences around the world. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Award-winning chefs Alan Wong and Roy Yamaguchi join a Who’s Who of the culinary world in cooking demos, tasting sessions and wine pairings. The festival kicks off Friday morning with Roy’s Golf Classic.

Details at HawaiiFoodAndWineFestival.com

Talk Story on the Land Nu‘u Refuge Join Hawaiian Islands Land Trust on this informative hike. Tour the refuge and visit cultural sites. 9 a.m.-1 p.m. Reservations required. 244-5263; hilt.org

Lā‘au Lapa‘au Workshop Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Cultural practitioner Ki‘i Kaho‘ohanohano teaches traditional Hawaiian remedies and practices of lā‘au lapa‘au. 9 a.m.-1 p.m. Reservations recommended.

150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

Society of Seven Castle Theater, MACC This favorite Hawai‘i group performs Broadway tunes, outrageous impressions and other hilarious antics.

7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

NOVEMBER 30

Doodles & Art from Doodles Viewpoints Gallery Artists display works that seem at first glance like “mindless scribbles.” 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; ViewpointsGalleryMaui.com

Pāka‘a Lanakila Castle Theater, MACC Chamber Music Hawaii’s Spring Wind Quintet shares this coming-of-age story through music and narration.

5 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org Big Bad Voodoo Daddy Castle Theater, MACC This high-energy band creates a vibrant fusion of jazz, swing and Dixieland. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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COURTESY OF THE MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

Hall & Oates, October 29 | Mike Epps, October 30

Hui No‘eau presents “Art with Aloha” featuring Visiting Artist and Master of Hawaiian Feather Arts

Mele Kahalepuna Chun

OCTOBER HIGHLIGHT

7

‘Aipono Wine Dinner The Cliff House Savor distinctive artisan wines from Kistler Vineyards, presented by Master of Wine Geoff Labitzke in collaboration with Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants. Montage Kapalua Bay’s Chef David Viviano will create a special pairing menu. $275 per person; a portion benefits the Maui Food Innovation Center. Reception 6 p.m., dinner 6:30 p.m. Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Drive, Kapalua. Reservations: 662-6681

ber

Free “Talk Story” & Demonstration

Kahili Pa‘alima Workshop

Lei Hulu Workshop

Kahili Pa‘alima: Family Style! (Ages 7+)

Thursday, November 10th 9:00 am - 11:00 pm

Friday, November 11th 9:00 am - 1:00 pm

Saturday, November 12th 9:00 am - 4:00 pm

Sunday, Novermber 13th 9:00 am - 12:00 pm

Learn about the Explore the art of beautiful art of Hawaiian featherwork traditional & & create your own contemporary Hawaiian small hand-held kahili. featherwork.

Pre-registration required

Learn the history of feather lei making in Hawai‘i & create your own feather lei.

Pre-registration required

Families will enjoy making a small hand-held feather kahili together.

Pre-registration required

27

Photo by Bryan Berkowitz

Martha Redbone Band Castle Theater, MACC Martha Redbone blends Native American elements, soul, funk and blues. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

28

Haunted Hawaiian Nights McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Lopaka Kapanui shares the history and legends of the islands through Hawaiian ghost stories. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

29

TriLanai Triathlon Hulopo‘e Beach, Lāna‘i This scenic sprint-distance triathlon includes a halfmile swim, ten-mile mountain bike course, and threemile run. 8:30 a.m. TriLanai.com

Contact Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center for more information and to register today!

808-572-6560 ∙ huinoeau.com ∙ 2841 Baldwin Avenue, Makawao, HI 96768

Mahalo to Hawai‘i Tourism Authority and the County of Maui for their support of this program.

29

Daryl Hall & John Oats Yokouchi Pavilion/A&B Amphitheater The top-selling duo bring their signature mix of soul, pop and rock. Henry Kapono is a guest performer.

7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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Mike Epps Castle Theater, MACC Epps stars as the title character in the comedy series Uncle Buck as a fun-loving but irresponsible guy who needs a job and a place to stay. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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Halloween in Lahaina Front Street closes to traffic as ghosts, goblins and masked partygoers come out for a night of ghoulish fun. At 4:30 p.m., the Keiki Halloween Costume Parade travels down Front Street to Banyan Tree Park.

Live entertainment begins at 6 p.m. at Campbell Park, between the Wharf Cinema Center and Baldwin Home Museum. From 7 to 9 p.m., everyone is invited to enter the Costume Contest at Banyan Tree Park— where DJ Chris Serna will be spinning the tunes from 6:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Transportation available from Kīhei and Wailuku. VisitLahaina.com Email your event to Calendar@Maui Magazine.net, or submit it online at MauiMagazine.net/maui-events. Listings for MNKO’s Nov–Dec print edition must be received by Sept. 14. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Sep–Oct 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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who’s who ‘AIPONO WINE DINNER | Sale Pepe | June 11 | Benefit for UH-Maui Culinary Academy

L to R: Michele & Qiana Di Bari | Ami & Rob Mason | Dee & Herb Coyle | Heather & Mike Berliner, Chrissy & Dave Huntley | Mary Anne Fitch & Nam Le Viet

KAPALUA WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL: SEAFOOD FESTIVAL | The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua | June 12

L to R: Megan McPhee, Tori Dixon | Venus & Kyu Yi | Misty Sitton, Cynthia Ah Sam | Megan Bianucci & John Anthony | Michelle Falk, Stéphane Brahy, Patricia Skeriotis

L to R: Tommy Marin, Jason Silveria, Leah Wood, Adam Rio | Alexis & Justin Brunold | Cara & Andy Bates | Mitchel Kortos, Matt Corbin, Corrin Gruben, Eric Littlejohn

MAUI FILM FESTIVAL: SOIRÉE AT SPAGO | Spago at Four Seasons Resort Maui | June 16

L to R: Donne Dawson, Randy Braun | Shanoaleigh Roseby & Jerod Marson | Tom Donovan & Kim McDonald | Amy Mendolia, Autumn Wigley | Alix Buchter & John Giordani

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Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at Facebook.com/MauiMagazine.

MauiMagazine.net

JOSE MORALES

L to R: Michael B. Jordan, Kelly Rohrbach, Bryan Cranston, Viola Davis, Wyatt Russell | Barry Rivers, Diane Woodburn | Amanda & Wade Robson | Jared Libby, Catherine Maurice

Presented by:

#MIMCF2016 Join us for Maui County’s largest products show at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center in Kahului

FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2016

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2016

Special Shoppers Preview

The Big Festival Day!

1:30PM - 6PM

An exclusive event for early shoppers

Get a one-day head start on your shopping!

• Opening ceremonies (5 pm), light refreshments.

• Free Festival tote for event attendees.

• Cost: $35 per person. Tickets available at the MACC box office.

•

Buyers Preview

Free entry for qualified wholesale/retail buyers

8AM - 4:30PM

Showcasing a wide variety of made in Maui County products including food, produce, arts, crafts, gifts, apparel, jewelry, and collectibles.

• Vendor product demonstrations.

• Fashion show featuring vendors’ products.

• Food Court with a dozen of Maui's food trucks.

• First 2,000 attendees receive a free Festival tote.

• Prize drawings throughout the day.

• Cost: $5 (at the gate), children 12 & under free.

•

For more information, visit our website: www.MadeInMauiCountyFestival.com Sponsored by: Hawaiian Airlines; Pasha Hawaii; HAWAI‘I Magazine; Hawaii State Department of Transportation, Kahului Airport; The Maui News; Maui No- Ka ‘Oi Magazine; The Maui Visitor Channel; Pacific Media Group; Courtyard Marriott – Maui Kahului Airport; HMSA; HHawaii Media; Residence Inn Maui Wailea; Central Pacific Bank; Goodfellow Bros. Inc.; HawaiiUSA Federal Credit Union; Matson; Maui Hotel & Lodging Association; Maui Printing Company; Expeditions.

LOOKING BACK

Meet the Neighbors You see them from almost any vantage on Maui: sister islands temptingly close, but not so easy to get to. That’s why even a short hop over the channel always feels like an adventure. Through the years, we’ve explored those disconnected parts of Maui Nui, and shared with you the sites, activities and traditions that make each island unique: Moloka‘i’s history as a place of exile (“Kalaupapa,” Fall 2003), but also as the birthplace of hula (“Where Tradition Holds Sway,” Mar/Apr 2007) . . . backroads on Lāna‘i that lead to a shipwrecked beach or

BY RITA GOLDMAN

a “garden of the gods” . . . and to Kaho‘olawe, where volunteers struggle to restore life to that former target island. While our official territory is Maui County, we couldn’t miss the chance to see up close rivers of molten lava spilling into the ocean along Hawai‘i Island’s Puna Coast. We tagged along when members of the Hawaiian Outrigger Canoe Voyaging Society paddled over successive journeys to the farthest reaches of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands. And on one magical night, from inside Haleakalā Crater, we even went exploring the stars.

ROADS

t Saddle up for a journey to Hawai‘i’s remotes spot, and an epic era in the Islands’ history.

Story by Heidi Pool | Photography by Bob

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Island Getaway » roads less travelled

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From top, left to right: “The Volcano Next Door,” Sep/Oct 2008; paddling the archipelago in “Straight on ‘til Friday,” Jan/Feb 2007; journeying to Kalaupapa in “Moloka‘i Mule Ride,” Sep/Oct 2011; seeing the heavens through Wally Pacholka’s amazing photos in “Maui’s Night Sky,” May/Jun 2010; “Kaho‘olawe,” Summer 2003; Moloka‘i’s “Kamakou Preserve,” Mar/ Apr 2014; “Backroads of Lāna‘i,” (Sep/ Oct 2012). Stories from 2006 on are available online at MauiMagazine.net.

It seems the smaller the place, the easier it is to get lost. Lāna‘i is a perfect example. A recent trip there proved that back roading this rural island is a control freak’s nightmare. You can set the course, consult the map, follow the directions . . . and still wind up at the edge of a deadend cliff.

The smallest of the six major Hawaiian Islands, Lāna‘i encompasses 141 square miles, of which just 30 are served by paved roads.

Traversing the rest—hundreds of miles of bumpy back roads—requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle and an iron stomach. A companion who’s savvy at navigating wouldn’t hurt either.

My friends and I had spent the previous night at The Lodge at Kō‘ele, one of two luxury hotels managed by the Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i.

At breakfast, hotel manager Alice Bouman stops by and shares a cautionary tale about getting stuck with a flat tire and no cell-phone reception

The rock formation Pu‘u Pehe is a sea stack; it sits at the tip of a point that separates Mānele and Hulopo‘e Bays. Legend says that long ago a warrior named Makakehau hid a maiden he loved in a cave at its base, so that none would covet her beauty. When a fierce kona storm arose, the ocean surged into the cave, drowning the girl. Distraught, Makakehau climbed the rock and leapt to his death. Hence the sea stack's popular nickname, Sweetheart Rock. o Ka ‘Oi » Sep-Oct 2012 Maui N¯

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www.mauimagazine.net 8/1/12 2:18 PM

MauiMagazine.net

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