b
WIN A TRIP TO MAUI Our Luxury Spa Getaway! b
LIVING IT UP Make yourself at home on the luxury side
Elegance with Edge Dazzle in the new year
A Hawaiian Spa
The ancient wisdom of lomilomi massage
Your Own Private Ranch
Get the VIP experience up on the range
80% 1.5 BWR PD 01
JAN-FEB ‘15 US/CAN $4.95 01
0
62825
90572
4
www.mauimagazine.net
OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY-DATE
rolex
oyster perpetual and day-date are trademarks.
Dress and shoes by Tommy Bahama; Bag by Louis Vuitton; All jewelry by Folli Follie; makeup at Cos Bar; Food image by Longhi's; Drink image by Tommy Bahama.
More than 70 of the finest names in style, art, cuisine and services, including Louis Vuitton . Gucci . BCBGMAXAZRIA . Tommy Bahama Store, Restaurant & Bar Baron & Leeds . Tiffany & Co. . L'Occitane . Cos Bar Cosmetic & Fragrance Boutique Banana Republic . Folli Follie . CachĂŠ . Longhi's . Ruth's Chris Steak House real estate services . notable galleries and more 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive . Open Daily . theshopsatwailea.com . 808.891.6770 .
FOR RARE WHITE DIAMONDS - NATURAL FANCY YELLOW, INTENSE & VIVID
RARE EXCEPTIONAL VALUE
LOUIS GLICK
Located at Napili Plaza Shopping Center 808-669-5755
•
•
5095 Napilihau Street
HuttonsJewelers.com
•
•
Lahaina, HI 96761
info@huttonsjewelers.com
Greenleaf Diamonds
At The Shops at Wailea 808.874.1118
features LUXURY
IS SUE
24 adventure
YOUR OWN PRIVATE RANCH Planning a luxury Maui adventure is all about exploring the possibilities. By Ilima Loomis
32 island style
ELEGANCE WITH AN EDGE Gleaming jewels and custom gowns to dazzle in the new year ~ Compiled by Conn Brattain
36 hawaiian soul
ALIGNED WITH THE ANCESTORS Lomilomi—Hawaiian massage—balances the body down to the bone, and all the way back in time. By Shannon Wianecki
42 maui style
HOW TO WALK DOWN A WATERFALL
If no can, can. Hāli‘imaile Pineapple Company is betting on fresh Maui Gold. See story page 44. Photo courtesy of HPC.
Dave Black has your life in his hands, and he’s promised he won’t let you fall. By Kyle Ellison
44 island business about our cover Photographer Sue Hudelson and model Thayra Guedes of Larson Talent capture the luxury of living at The Residences at Montage Kapalua Bay. Thayra’s dress is by INDAH, at Honey, A Sweet Boutique, 105 N. Market St., Wailuku. Her jewelry: Mer bangles in yellow gold, rose gold and silver, and sea-scales earrings in gold-plated rose gold, by Keani, at Honey, A Sweet Boutique; goldfilled, hammered droplet necklace with fire pearl, also by Keani, at Tamara Catz, 83 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia; gold-plated spike necklace on gold-fill chain, by SOL Jewels, at Nuage Bleu, 76 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia. Styling by Conn Brattain. Hair, makeup & manicure by Michelle Oliver of Spa Montage at Kapalua Bay, One Bay Dr., Kapalua. Go on location in our story on page 48.
10
www.mauimagazine.net
HARVESTING MAUI GOLD Despite a smaller market slice, Hāli‘imaile Pineapple Company is reaping sweet success. By Kathy Collins
48 at home
A MONTAGE OF LUXURY A film producer and an interior designer create a residence that’s truly camera worthy. By Sarah Ruppenthal
WIN A TRIP TO MAUI FOR 2! Complete our survey (page 74) and mail it in to be entered in a prize drawing for round-trip tickets to Maui aboard Alaska Airlines, three nights’ deluxe accommodations at the Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, a luxury spa treatment, and more. (Or enter online at MauiMagazine.net/Contest.) Contest runs January 1 through February 28, 2015.
©2014 CHANEL®, Inc.
The Shops at Wailea 808.874.4900
•
Whalers Village 808.661.6806
departments 14 contributors
It takes a lot of talents to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.
16 publisher’s note 18 talk story
by Diane Haynes Woodburn
Fresh off the coconut wireless ~ By Lehia Apana & Kyle Ellison
22 great finds
LOVE MAUI? SPREAD THE WORD ~ Compiled by Conn Brattain
95 arts & leisure
Our picks for where to go, what to do ~ Compiled by Lehia Apana
106 calendar of events 112 who’s who 114 liddo bitta tita
What’s happening where, when and with whom
Seen making the scene on Maui
Our local authority gets the last word. By Kathy Collins
THIS ISSUE ONLINE
Web-exclusive content at mauimagazine.net (available beginning in January) THE ICEMAN CARVETH Watch an award-winning ice sculptor at work at mauimagazine.net/MrFreeze. A LITTLE SLICE OF HEAVEN Try this salsa recipe using fresh Maui pineapple. mauimagazine.net/MauiGold HOW’S THIS FOR SUSPENSE? Ever rappel down a cliff ? Now add water. mauimagazine.net/WalkDownAWaterfall CAST & CREW Catch our fishermen in action at mauimagazine.net/FollowTheFish THIS JUST IN! Visit our online calendar for updates around Maui County. EH, LIKE LISTEN? Tita’s column stay mo’ bettah when she reads ‘em out loud at mauimagazine.net/NuttinButDaBes. LET’S GET SOCIAL ....................................................................
12
facebook.com/MauiMagazine
twitter.com/MAUImag
pinterest.com/mauimagazine
instagram.com/mauimag
www.mauimagazine.net
Grass-fed Maui Cattle Company beef tataki at Travaasa Hāna’s Ka‘uiki Dining Room—one of five ways to impress that special someone. See page 75. Photo by Nina Kuna
DINING
64 dining feature
FOLLOW THE FISH When it comes to supporting local, sustainable fishing, Mama’s knows best. By Becky Speere
71 becky’s backyard
A PASSION FOR LILIKO‘I Immerse yourself in this versatile, sweet-and-sour fruit. By Becky Speere
75 dining highlights 5 DAYS, 5 WAYS
“You’re a dining editor,” said my visitors. “Impress us.” How could I turn down a challenge like that? By Becky Speere
78 raise your glass
WHAT’S BEHIND THE PRICY LABEL
Ever wonder why certain wines are so expensive? By Charles Fredy, Advanced Sommelier
82 maui mixology ‘ŌKOLEHAO
A modern distiller puts a new spin on Hawaiian moonshine. By Becky Speere
84 dining guide
A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island
On Maui we have a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is indeed the best.” We hope you think so, too.
What is your ultimate Maui splurge?
PUBLISHER Diane Haynes Woodburn SENIOR EDITOR Rita Goldman
“Taking an early morning catamaran cruise to Lāna‘i, being totally pampered by the crew all day long.”
MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana
“All I can say is, it involves massive amounts of chocolate.”
DINING EDITOR Becky Speere ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER John Giordani STYLE EDITOR Conn Brattain WEB CONTENT & E-MARKETING COORDINATOR
Adelle Lennox “Grilling Maui grass-fed filet mignon at our secret Hāna camping spot while watching the sky shift colors into night.”
PRODUCTION MANAGER Harry Chang ASSISTANT DESIGNER Shelby Lynch STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Nina Kuna EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Jose Morales CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Kathy Collins, Kyle Ellison, Charles Fredy, Ilima Loomis, Sarah Ruppenthal, Shannon Wianecki
“A lazy afternoon at the beach with a good book—or the latest issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine.”
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Lehia Apana, Bob Bangerter, Mark Bowler, Conn Brattain, Kyle Ellison, John Giordani, Mieko Horikoshi, Sue Hudelson, Olivier Koning, Barbara Kraft, Shelby Lynch, Jose Morales, Gregory Pierce, Ryan Siphers, Becky Speere, Forest & Kim Starr “A fancy dinner with my beautiful wife. Maybe Merriman’s, Roy’s, or Lahaina Grill—paired with a bottle of Malbec.”
“Coming from Los Angeles, my ultimate Maui splurge, or luxury really, is finding a secluded strip of beach and not having to pay for parking.”
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR Matt Foster CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION
Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. ADVERTISING SALES (808) 242-8331 DIRECTOR OF SALES Laura Lewark ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES
Michael Haynes, Angela Lammers “A trip to Lāna‘i and staying at the Four Seasons, with time for golfing and hanging poolside with some cocktails.”
CONTROLLER & OFFICE MANAGER
Kao Kushner NEWSSTAND SALES & CIRCULATION
Subscription Inquiries toll free (855) 544-3118 Visit: mauimagazine.net/subscribe NATIONAL MagNet, Disticor Magazine Distribution Services HAWAI‘I MagNet
“A night out with my wife at Mama’s Fish House. The romantic island atmosphere, delicious drinks, food, world-class service, and on top of that, only three minutes from home.”
IN-ROOM Maui Circulation
(808) 242-8331
E-MAIL ADDRESS info@mauimagazine.net
Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, & The Shops at Wailea magazines 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; (808) 242-8331. ©2015 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly U.S. subscriptions $21; Canadian subscriptions $29; foreign subscriptions $40. Payable in U.S. currency. Canadian Post Publication Mail Agreement 41458020, undeliverables 2-7496 Bath Road, Mississauga, Ontario L4T 1L2. mauimagazine.net Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi—an environmental leader in the industry whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.
14
www.mauimagazine.net
publisher’s note What Is Luxury?
A hui hou,
Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher
16
www.mauimagazine.net
TOP: NINA KUNA
By the time you read this, we’ll be exactly a decade and a half into the century. But as I write, it’s Thanksgiving eve, and once again I find myself juggling magazine deadline, holiday parties and a houseful of family, all with the grace of a one-armed wallpaper hanger. These are the days I’m glad to have A.D.D., and am only too able to find a quick vacation for my brain in any available diversion. “Look,” I exclaim to my husband, Jamie, “The box is finally here!” We’ve been home from our trip for almost two months, but the package purchased in Italy has only just arrived. As my fingers trace the foreign labels, I’m happily transported to Florence, roaming the ancient cobblestone paths and alleyways where the smells of fresh-baked pastries, strong espresso, and hot pizza beckoned like sirens. If one escaped succumbing to those heavenly aromas, it was only to fall to temptation at the corner gelato stand. The shops were no less seductive. A storefront with handpainted ceramics and an elf-sized door had caught my eye. Inside, a Geppetto of a man sat on a wooden stool, spectacles perched on his high nose. “Buona sera, Signora,” he smiled, his paintbrush poised over a ceramic plate. My only question: What to choose? “Here’s a scissors,” Jamie offers, bringing me back to the task at hand. As I cut through the tape and cardboard to unearth my treasure, I recall how that day had concluded: a truly Tuscan feast with friends, then a languid, meandering (and slightly tipsy) stroll towards our hotel. From nowhere, it seemed, came the sound of distant music—sweet, clear voices floating above us in song. We followed it to a high, lighted window behind which an a cappella choir was practicing. Their melodic voices resonated through the air, echoing off the centuries-old rock walls that served as our private cathedral. Other passersby joined us. I heard whispers in Italian, French, German, Arabic. We smiled at one another, eyes lifted to the small window in a serendipitous moment of harmony and joy. Indulging ourselves, whether it be travel, food, or adventure, is a good thing, I decide. You never know where you will find the most wonderful surprise. In this, our annual luxury issue, we offer fun and, yes, some extravagant ways to indulge yourself and those close to you, from living like royalty in the magnificent Montage, to nurturing body and soul through Hawaiian healing. Or how about being whisked off by helicopter to a ranch that’s all yours for a day, complete with a private chef? Treasures abound in these pages, but as I recall our evening under that window in Florence, I’m convinced that the best treasures are those you least expect, and that aren’t material at all. I’ve wrestled the box open, Styrofoam peanuts strewn like snow over floors and tables as I dig for the bounty within. Finally, two platters emerge, brightly painted with sunflowers, pomegranates, olives and apples. I display them on our kitchen counter, and then move to the stove to chop onions and squash for our Thanksgiving meal. “Do you wish we were back in Italy?” I ask my husband dreamily. “It was great,” he says, “but I’m glad to be home.” I glance again at our painted Tuscan platters and imagine the sumptuous dishes I will fill them with, and the family and friends who will join us tomorrow to share them. “Me too,” I grin, and turn happily back to my cooking. Wishing you a year filled with the luxuries of good health, family, friends and moments of unexpected harmony and joy.
talk story
“Jaws” bites!
FRESH OFF THE COCONUT WIRELESS
These riderless boards are a poignant reminder why the surf break at Pe‘ahi, on Maui’s north shore, is called “Jaws.”
18
www.mauimagazine.net
You might think these surfers on Maui’s north shore are lucky to be alive—but it’s preparation, rather than luck, that keeps big-wave surfers paddling. Maui’s own Ian Walsh is a big-wave pioneer, and his training regimen reads like something you’d expect of Seal Team Six: Yoga sit ups, lateral plank holds, eccentric hanging leg tucks . . . followed by two hours of surfing and thirty-five miles on the bike. Since a wave of this size can literally pin surfers to the ocean floor—where air, light, and sense of direction instantly disappear—such intense training is paramount to survival when a cleanup set rolls in. (That’s surf lingo for waves that break much larger and farther out, catching surfers inside and off guard.) According to Ian, it’s just as important to train for the wipeouts as it is to train for the waves. Which is why, when gale-force winter storms on the International Date Line send fifty-foot surf to Pe‘ahi, Maui’s cadre of big-wave surfers are prepared to test their luck.—Kyle Ellison
BOB BANGERTER
Clean Getaway
KBH_MNKO_7.05x4.785_Jan2015.indd 1
11/7/14 1:53 PM
With 90 stores and restaurants, you can shop for beach gear and vacation keepsakes, enjoy a leisurely meal, and explore the whaling life at our Whale Museum – all just a few steps from the sand.
/ WhalersVillage
@ WhalersVillage
whalersvillage.com
Open daily from 9:30am–10pm
WHLR-29387_7-05x4-785.indd 1
Free WiFi
2435 Kaanapali Parkway, Maui | 808-661-4567 Open daily from 9:30am–10pm
11/6/14 8:47 AM
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan-Feb 2015
Client: Whalers Village
19
A Day in the Life
talk story
Mr. Freeze NAME: Darren Ho TITLE: Ice Sculptor
Going with the floe
COOL CUSTOMER: When Darren Ho tells people what he does for a living, he’s often met with puzzled stares, scrunched eyebrows, and even a few chuckles. That’s what happens when you’re an ice sculptor in the tropics. As paradoxical as it may seem, he explains that the land of sunshine and palm trees is well suited for his work. “Many people don’t realize that Hawai‘i is the premier destination for large conventions and weddings. Because of that, there’s a huge demand for extravagant parties, so I’m really in the right place for this,” he explains. NEW KID ON THE BLOCK: Darren’s passion for ice carving began in the early eighties while he was working as a cook at the former Intercontinental Hotel (now Wailea Beach Marriott). The fact that he had never picked up a chisel before didn’t discourage him. He volunteered to create the ice sculpture for the resort’s Sunday brunch. To sweeten the deal, he offered to buy his own equipment and carve during his free time. “I have a picture of my very first ice carving—it’s horrendous,” he sighs. “It was supposed to be a swordfish, but it looks like some kind of seahorse embryo.” SUB HERO: Fast-forward three decades, and Darren has chipped away at more than 3,000 blocks of ice—sculpting everything from kissing swans and splashing mermaids to company logos and even a life-sized motorcycle. Darren forms his frosty medium by pouring filtered water into a thirty-gallon freezer mold. To prevent a cloudy core or air bubbles, he uses a pump to circulate the water. The result is a 300pound block of clear ice. Wielding a chainsaw, he slices chunks off the massive block to form a rough outline, then uses power drills and chisels to bring the sculpture to life.
See photos of Darren’s carvings at icesculptures bydarrenho.com, and go to mauimagazine.net/ MrFreeze to watch him create the winning piece at the International Ice Sculpting Exhibition & Competition held Nov. 9 at Lahaina Cannery Mall.
20
www.mauimagazine.net
RYAN SIPHERS
CHIP SHOT: On display, an ice sculpture lasts only four or five hours; Darren accepts that attachment to his work is futile. Instead, he catalogues his frozen art in photos, some of which line one wall of his Kahului workshop. “As long as I get my picture, I’m fine,” he laughs. “You can’t go wrong with a medium like ice. No matter what you make, it’s going to look cool.” —Lehia Apana
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan-Feb 2015
21
GREAT FINDS
2
1
3
Spread the Word
4
Love Maui? Make a statement with these islandcrafted treasures. COMPILED BY CONN BRATTAIN 5
6
22
www.mauimagazine.net
1
A Little Bird Told Us
. . . about Erica Mueller’s Littlest Birds Jewelry. Perched on your wrist, nestled round your neck, her sterling-silver Maui Heart bracelet and necklace declare your island affection, even if you don’t say a peep. Handmade on Maui, the bracelet is $70; the necklace (on a 16” chain) is $50. Both available—where else?—at Wings Hawai‘i, 69 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-3110, wingshawaii.com; and etsy.com/shop/littlestbirdsjewelry
2
Our Type of Tote
We flipped over Maui Thing’s LOVE MAUI tote, and think you will, too. Any way you look at it, the clever graphic design spells out our favorite four-letter words. The cotton canvas bag is 19”w x 14”h x 6”d, $22 at Maui Thing, 7 N. Market St., Wailuku, 249-0215, mauithing.com
3
Pillow Talk
Annie Fischer began with a shell that she made into a button, put on a pillow, and painted in an ocean palette. Her Maui Love pillow has shell-button closures and a pineapple motif. Each Annie Fischer Designs pillow is one of a kind: hand painted, 100% cotton duck, in natural or white, sold with or without down/ feather insert. Sizes and prices vary. Pillow shown, with insert, is 22”x22”, $150 at Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000; and Pearl Butik, 71 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8899. Zip It! Fischer’s zippered pouches also come in various sizes and designs; each has different patterns on insides, front and back. $38–$48 at Four Seasons Resort Maui, and Nuage Bleu, 76 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-9792.
808 276 2764 waterlilymaui.com
4
Family Affair
1, 2, 3, 4, 6: CONN BRATTAIN; 5: EVERYTHING IS JAKE/NICK KUCHAR
Maui girls Jen and Jes named their Matsumoto Studio after their dad; their notecard line, Annie + Flo, after their mom and grandma. It goes without saying your own family and friends will delight in the missives you send in these Aloha Surfboard and Aloha Mango designs. Each single-fold card is printed on smooth, heavyweight, recycled cardstock; $3 each, including envelope. Find them at matsumotostudio.com.
5
Prints Charming
O‘ahu artist Nick Kuchar captures the joy of leisure, Hawaiian style, in these fun retro prints titled “Aloha from Wailea Maui” and “Spread the Aloha.” Each 12”x18” poster is handmade and printed on smooth, heavyweight stock. $20 each + shipping from Everything Is Jake!, everythingisjake.com
6
Block Letters
Maui artist Marylou Degrazia carves and paints these LOVE and MAUI woodblocks by hand; they come with picture hooks on the back, so they sit, stack or hang. (Personalized blocks available, too.) $50 each at Honey, A Sweet Boutique, 105 N. Market St., Wailuku, 2448488, honeysweetboutique.squarespace.com Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
23
≤⁄ YºUR OWN⁄≥ G))))))))))g PRIVªT RªNCH G))))))))))g planning a luxury adventure on maui is all about exploring the possibilities. ≥ Story by Ilima Loomis ≥ Photography by Sue Hudelson
24
www.mauimagazine.net
« ADVENTURE » There’s something about walking across a baking tarmac toward the heavy, mechanical roar of a very large engine, and climbing into the front seat of a sleek, black helicopter that makes you feel like you have options. As the headset settles over your ears with a satisfying squeeze, and hands reach to help you into a five-point harness, your entire body vibrates with the thrumming readiness of this machine to carry you anywhere. When you glance at the pilot, he gives you thumbs-up. Forget the narrow paths and prescribed lines of travel the earthbound must follow. Today, you think, we will fly. Whether money can buy happiness is something I may never know. But I can say this—it buys you possibilities. And in this world of commitments and deadlines, sign-up sheets, overplanning, and scheduled reminders, few things feel more luxurious than the simple question Where shall we go today? We glide up the slope of Haleakalā, over Makawao town and beyond, to soar above the eucalyptus forests of Olinda. Zooming over ranch buildings and rolling
pastures, we span a plunging gulch and begin a smooth descent, skimming over the billowing grass of an open meadow toward a little wood cabin, a wisp of smoke curling up like a beckoning finger. The rotor wash kicks up a vortex of yellow grass as we touch down, and we sit for a moment while the engine cools, the shadow of the helicopter blades sliding over us slower and slower, until someone opens the door, and the only thing we can hear is the sound of wind blowing through grass, and the low crackle of a cooking fire. Real life feels a world away. Crossing the pasture to greet us is Adam Quinn, a luxury travel planner for the kinds of people who arrive on Maui by private jet. We’re here to try his “heli-ranch tour,” an itinerary that combines helicopter sightseeing with lunch (prepared by a private chef, of course) and activities at Pi‘iholo Ranch. Quinn calls this tour a “conversation starter” for clients, and the conversation goes like this: What do you want to do? ATV tour? A guide will be waiting to meet
Tamalyn Baldwin, head wrangler for Pi‘iholo Ranch, leads horses past a Sunshine Helicopters whirlybird. Adventure Quinn’s “heli-ranch” package starts with an aerial tour, catered lunch and trail ride; and can incorporate just about any other activity guests request. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
25
« ADVENTURE »
Clockwise from left: Below a eucalyptus windbreak, at an elevation of 2,200 feet, a private cabin serves as home base for the day’s activities. Chef Mark Shimer prepares a restaurant-worthy lunch on a 1920sstyle wood-burning stove. Fine wines and fresh, local fruit elevate a picnic served on a simple wooden table. Our writer gets acquainted with her horse, Pecan. Pi‘iholo Ranch provides the horses and trails; wrangler Tamalyn Baldwin adds the colorful ranch stories.
you. Ziplining? Let’s head next door to Pi‘iholo Ranch Zipline. Plein-air painting? We’ll have supplies and an instructor ready to go. Hiking? Couples massage? Mountain biking? Tell us what you want, and we will make it happen. And if what you want is the luxury of keeping your options open, Quinn can make that happen, too. “I’ve had clients who just say, ‘Yes: all of it,’” he says. For the indecisive traveler, he’s booked the full slate of guides, activities, and deluxe equipment rentals, keeping them all standing by for the day—just in case you change your mind about what you feel like doing after lunch. The price of having all those possibilities? “It’s a $50,000 to $60,000 day,” he says. We’re interrupted by the sound of thundering hooves, as two cowgirls leading a string of trail horses ride in at a dead gallop, announcing themselves with a joyful “whoop!” Horseback riding? I like where this conversation is going. The riders slow their horses to an easy walk and rein them over to make their greetings. Our guide is Tamalyn Baldwin, head wrangler for Pi‘iholo Ranch, and a member of the historic kama‘āina family that owns these lands. Perched on her horse Badger, arms draped
26
www.mauimagazine.net
“We’re gonna go let these guys smell the helicopter,” Tamalyn announces.
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
27
« ADVENTURE »
From left: The rustic cabin feels like a relic of the Old West, even without swinging saloon doors; rounding up the horses for the day’s ride; Ha‘ikū summer rolls with sweet ginger dipping sauce add an island flair to this classy picnic lunch; ready for the trail.
across the pommel of her western saddle, she cuts a flashy figure with her rhinestone-studded bridle, spotted deerskin chaps, and mischievous, cowgirl grin. After we’ve made introductions and commented on the beautiful day, she sits up, scratching Badger’s neck as he chuffs nervously. “We’re gonna go let these guys smell the helicopter,” she announces, leading her string toward the incongruous machine. I stand on the porch and take in the vista—yellow pastures rolling into dark swaths of forest; downslope, the thick carpet of sugarcane fields that seems to run all the way to the sea. Across the Central Valley isthmus, soft, white clouds have begun to collect on West Maui’s mountain peaks. “I just can’t get over how pretty this view is,” sighs Laura Markison to her husband, Tim. Now part-time residents of Kahana, the Markisons have been Quinn’s clients for years, saying they like to get out and explore the island, but prefer their adventures “managed.” And Quinn is an adventure veteran. Hiking, camping, fishing, and scuba diving were part of his growing up, and with a father who left
28
www.mauimagazine.net
the Marines to become a private pilot, summer vacations were spent airport hopping across the country. “Instead of packing up the station wagon, we’d pack up the Cessna,” he recalls. With the horses secured at an actual hitching post, Baldwin saunters over to the table with a clomp of boots and a jingle of spurs. Quinn starts pouring the wine as Chef Mark Shimer introduces us to our lunch: pulled short-rib sliders with marinated tomatoes, simple green salad drizzled with a spiced rum dressing, and potato salad with artichoke hearts and fresh herbs. Baldwin regales us with old rodeo stories, going over the finer points of calf roping as we tuck in. Working with Quinn, Shimer says, is an adventure for him, too. “You can count on unusual locations with clients of high expectations.” Depending on the client and theme, the menu could be anything from our elegant picnic lunch to an elaborate evening of fine dining. The cabin’s remote location presents its own set of challenges, Shimer notes, starting with the four-wheel-drive trek to get here. “Once you are in, you are in,” he says. “There is no corner store to
Above, from left: Among the pleasures the ranch affords is the peace and solitude of a setting so remote, the only ways to reach it are by Jeep, helicopter or horseback. The replica of an antique, wood-burning stove adds an old-time flavor both literal and metaphoric. A wooden post makes a convenient horseshoe caddy. For dessert, mango-apple cobbler with créme fraiche. Below: Fresh salads accompany Chef’s pulled-pork slider with Banyules tomato relish.
Working with Quinn is an adventure for Chef Mark, too. “You can count on unusual locations with clients of high expectations.”
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
29
« ADVENTURE »
This trail ride is part of Quinn’s formula for a successful adventure: always move forward to something new; never backtrack. I think about what a luxury that really is. save you if you left the butter in the walk-in. We must be prepared to cook over open fire, wood stove—as we did one Christmas dinner—or propane burners and by lantern light if the sun goes down.” As we drain our glasses and scrape the last bits of apple-berry crisp from our ramekins, Baldwin mounts up. Tim Markison has opted for mountain biking, and follows Quinn to the truck to pick up his gear. Meanwhile, the rest of us are fitted to our stirrups and given brief instruction in stop, go, and turn. It’s been more than a decade since I’ve been in a saddle, but I grew up on horses, and I relax into the seat, getting used to the feeling of reins in my hand again. This trail ride is part of Quinn’s formula for a successful adventure: always move forward to something new; never backtrack. As we cut across open pastures and through cool forest, snaking along dusty Jeep roads and animal-trodden paths, I think about what a
Sometimes simply being far from the madding crowd is all the luxury you need.
30
www.mauimagazine.net
luxury that really is. For a moment, the back-and-forth world I live in seems very far away. “Ready to run?” calls Morgan Rose, the twenty-year-old horsewoman leading our party. Laura Markison is not, and opts to finish the trip in the air conditioning and plush front seat of the ranch truck, which is escorting us from a discrete distance. The rest of us plant our butts in our saddles and give our mounts a squeeze, and my pulse quickens as I feel my horse surge forward with the group. Soon enough, we’ll rendezvous with the gleaming, climatecontrolled Mercedes Sprinter, standing by to whisk us back to our earthbound, within-the-lines, back-and-forth lives. But for the next few moments, I’ll relish the feeling of galloping toward the next possibility. Adventure Quinn’s heli-ranch tour starts at $15,000 for six guests. To learn more, visit AdventureQuinn.com.
« THE DRESS Metallic yarn running
through nylon-Lycra fabric creates a sheen that Maui designer Koa Johnson reimagined as coal being compressed into diamonds. To accentuate the model’s feminine curves, Johnson mined the seventeenth-century fashion concept of panniers: side hoops that extend the width of a skirt while keeping front and back silhouettes slim.
« THE JEWELS
White South Sea and Tahitian pearl “Ombre” strand, $2,599; white South Sea pearl strand with 14K white-gold clasp, $2,199; Tahitian pearl strand with 14K white-gold clasp, $1,799; Tahitian pearl earrings with diamonds in 14K white gold, $1,959; multicolored Tahitian pearl bracelet with 14K white-gold clasp, $679; Tahitian pearl bracelet with 14K yellow-gold clasp, $929; white South Sea pearl ring with pavé diamonds in 18K white gold, $2,399; Tahitian pearl ring with pavé diamonds in 18K yellow gold, $1,899; all by and at Na Hoku, Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center, 275 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 808-893-2110; The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 808-891-8040; Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808-6675411; other Hawai‘i locations: nahoku.com
» THE DRESS Johnson hand-dyed more
than ten yards of rayon knit for this gown whose hip-hugging “mermaid fit” flairs into an extravagantly long train. “I wanted to introduce a plunging neckline that’s risqué and sexy, but not vulgar,” he says.
» THE JEWELS Collar necklace in 18K
white gold with 4.55ctw diamonds; pavé slant ring in 18K white gold with 4.56ctw diamonds; 5-row diamond hoop earrings, 3.09ctw, in 18K white gold; 2-strand twisted bracelet in 18K rose and white gold with 7.40ctw diamonds; by Como Italia, prices on request at Baron & Leeds, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 808-874-4900; and Whalers Village, Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808661-6806; baronandleeds.com
32
www.mauimagazine.net
« ISLAND STYLE »
elegance with an edge Gleaming jewels and custom gowns to dazzle in the new year
Styling by Conn Brattain Photography by Jose Morales Hair & Makeup: Ry-n Shimabuku Model: Aika Erlandson of Larson Talent
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
33
« ISLAND STYLE »
Material Man Koa Johnson first hit our radar the year he created a sculptural gown for Imua Family Services’ Fantasia Ball. At the 2014 MAMo Wearable Art show on Maui, which spotlighted native Hawaiian fashion designers, Johnson proved himself one of the more imaginative talents—even crafting a form-fitting gown of ti leaves. Any material is fair game for the young designer’s impromptu creativity. He once grabbed the red plastic tablecloths after a Valentine’s Day party, took them home and transformed them into gowns. He delights, he says, in working with “lots of ruffled layers and evanescent materials.” Johnson opted to be more conventional with the gowns he created for our fashion shoot—at least in his fabric selection. All three epitomize his penchant for glamor that’s at once edgy and feminine, perfect for making a red-carpet statement. Johnson earned an associate degree from the University of Hawai‘i–Maui College’s Fashion Technology program in 2011. A year later, he joined the faculty. “His designs are extraordinary,” says mentor Leona Rocha Wilson, who spent decades in New York’s fashion industry. “And he understands the female figure.”
34
www.mauimagazine.net
« THE DRESS Sometimes Johnson’s designs
evolve after they’ve moved from sketch to fabrication. “This matte dress was going to be A-line,” he says, “but became more fitted.” A late decision was to open the center-front seam, giving the dress more flow. Cordage made of the same knit material connects the plunging neckline in a web of geometric lines meant to suggest a diamond’s facets.
« THE JEWELS 14K white-gold necklace with 28.16ct mixed-shape tanzanite and 13.58ct pavé diamonds; 14K white-gold bracelet with 27.27ct mixed-shape tanzanite and 4.37ct round pavé diamonds; 18K white-gold ring with 23ct single tanzanite stone and 1.17ct pavé diamonds; 14K white-gold earrings with 10.18ct tanzanite stones and .8ct diamonds; prices on request; all by and at Greenleaf Diamonds, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 808-874-1118; greenleafdiamonds.com. Black and clear Lucite Lara clutch by Edie Parker, $995; and Sombry navy leather heels by Giuseppe Zanotti Design, $695; both at 22 Knots, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 808-874-8000; fourseasons.com/maui
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
35
« HAWAIIAN SOUL »
Jeana Naluai carries the wisdom of her ancestors forward at her boutique spa in upcountry Maui.
36
www.mauimagazine.net
Lomilomi—Hawaiian massage—seeks to balance the body down to the bone, and all the way back in time. STORY BY SHANNON WIANECKI PHOTOS COURTESY OF HO‘OMANA SPA
Hawaiian massage, lomilomi, is deep medicine. “It’s meant to penetrate the bones,” says Jeana Naluai, owner of Ho‘omana Spa. Hawaiians believe that mana, life force, dwells within the bones. Lomilomi practitioners use a variety of techniques to skillfully unlock the tension in the muscles and ligaments surrounding the bones, which allows mana to circulate freely. “Sometimes, says Naluai, “there can be a miraculous healing.” Naluai knows something about miracles; her career in the healing arts has been marked by the kind of encounters that some call coincidences, others divine intervention. In college she majored in physical therapy, obtaining her master’s in sports medicine. Soon after, she had the rare opportunity to study with Margaret Machado, a renowned native Hawaiian healer who, in the 1970s, was among the first to share lomilomi with the world. Traditionally, the science and lore of lomilomi was kept secret. Each Hawaiian family had a healer who would pass his or her knowledge on to a chosen apprentice. But like many indigenous arts, lomilomi was in danger of extinction; too few elders remained to teach the younger generation. Machado felt it best to open her oceanfront home in Kealakekua, on Hawai‘i Island, to anyone willing to learn. In 2000 Naluai arrived. She and a dozen other students camped out on the lānai, where they learned to massage using their forearms, palms, knuckles, elbows, knees, and feet—even sticks and heated stones. Machado taught them to collect sea salt and black volcanic sand for exfoliation, and to sweat out toxins in a lauhala-thatched sweat house. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
37
« HAWAIIAN SOUL »
HAWAIIANS BELIEVE THAT MANA, LIFE FORCE, DWELLS WITHIN THE BONES. UNLOCKING TENSION ALLOWS MANA TO CIRCULATE FREELY.
Practicing lā‘au lapa‘au (plant medicine), they drank herbs to better tolerate the heat, and rubbed fresh aloe onto their skin. “My first full lomi massage was transformational,” says Naluai. “I knew this is what I was meant to do.” Sports medicine and its fixation on isolated joints seemed inadequate after this taste of holistic medicine. With an appetite whetted for Hawaiian healing arts, Naluai sought out relatives on the kanaka maoli (native Hawaiian) side of her family—someone who might have traditional knowledge. She came up empty. As far as she knew, any healers within her family had passed on, taking their secrets with them. She traveled around the state, learning from various lomilomi practitioners, until a friend introduced her to Aunty Mahilani Poepoe. The voluptuous, white-haired Hawaiian greeted Naluai with a knowing smile. “My grandmother came to me in a dream two days ago,” the elder woman said. “She told me you were coming and to be ready to teach.” After talking, the two women discovered that Poepoe’s grandmother and Naluai’s great-grandfather were sister and brother. Naluai had found the healer within her family. Poepoe ran a free lomilomi clinic at her home in Waiehu, a predominantly Hawaiian neighborhood in central Maui. From sundown to well past midnight each Wednesday, people gathered in the carport. They brought along their keiki (children), grandparents, and even animals for healing. They offered mangos and pickled pīpīnola (squash) as payment and played ‘ukulele to pass the time until their turn with Poepoe. “She was a seer,” says Naluai. “She could see where the injuries were in their bodies, or if nutrients weren’t being assimilated. She’d read them, and then send them over to us working on the tables.” Naluai and a few other assistants would massage them. No privacy, no fancy spa atmosphere—just powerful bodywork. Lomilomi has its roots in lua, Hawaiian martial arts. Ancient warriors needed to know how to mend bones in the field. A lua master’s final training includes ho‘onoho iwi, or “resitting the bones,” says Naluai. “When you relax the muscles and attachments to joints, you can reset bones easily.” Often, the therapeutic benefits of lomilomi begin before a practitioner lays hands on a client. Hawaiian healers commence each treatment with a prayer. “Sometimes Aunty Mahi would just pray
38
www.mauimagazine.net
At Ho‘omana, therapists integrate indigenous practices into spa treatments, including hot-stone massage (left) and back walking (above), a lesserknown practice that Jeana Naluai learned from Aunty Mahilani Poepoe.
Four-handed lomilomi can stimulate profound healing, reengaging the left and right brain and body functions.
Therapists at Ho‘omana Spa learn lā‘au lapa‘au, traditional Hawaiian plant medicine, and harvest many of their own ingredients.
with someone and the ailment would fall away,” says Naluai. As fabulous as this sounds, even Western medicine acknowledges that shifts in a person’s attitude can make all the difference in his or her ability to heal. During one of the evening sessions in Waiehu, Poepoe motioned towards a very sick woman, a local realtor who was dying of liver failure. “Talk to her when you’re ready to move upcountry,” Poepoe told Naluai, who looked askance. The young massage therapist lived in Kīhei at the time; she had no intention of relocating upcountry—nor did the realtor look like she would live long enough to make another sale. Soon after, Poepoe herself passed away, and Naluai decided to open her own healing center. When she went looking for the right location, Poepoe’s words proved prophetic. The realtor, now fully recovered, sold Naluai a special parcel of land up in the forest above Makawao town. Ho‘omana Spa is tucked into a curve along Pi‘iholo Road. It’s a far trek from just about anywhere on the island, but those who make the journey are well rewarded. Naluai brings ancient wisdom into a contemporary luxury-spa setting. The grounds are lushly landscaped with fragrant flowers and medicinal plants. The elegant treatment rooms feel cozy, like a bedroom in your favorite aunty’s house. Couples can retreat into the bathhouse, where they can sink into two deep marble tubs filled with warm water and aromatic herbs. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
39
« HAWAIIAN SOUL »
“WE WALK IN LINE WITH OUR ANCESTORS. EACH VERTEBRAE IS AN ANCESTRAL SUPPORT THAT HELPS US TO STAND AND WALK.” On one occasion a man visiting from Barcelona approached the few steps up to the door at Ho‘omana with trepidation; for years his injured knee had forced him to walk crablike up stairs. To his astonishment, the pain disappeared as he climbed the spa’s stairs. He asked Naluai, “What happened? How did you do that?” She replied that she had simply cleared the energy surrounding the spa. An even more powerful healing recently occurred during a fourhanded lomilomi massage. The spa’s bookkeeper bought this lavish treatment for her husband, who had difficulty speaking after suffering a stroke. One of the benefits of four-handed lomilomi is that the two practitioners working in tandem are able to recalibrate the client’s connection between the right and left brain. After the massage, the man was able to carry on a normal conversation with his wife. Ho‘omana means “to empower,” and it’s an apt name for this healing sanctuary. The spa menu incorporates ‘alaea (red clay), ‘ili‘ili (hot stones), and ‘awa (a relaxing tonic) in its body masks, massages, and herbal soaks. Guests take part in lā‘au lapa‘au, collecting lemongrass, lavender, and white ginger blossoms for their treatments. Twice a year, Naluai takes five students through a 600-hour certification program, inducting them into the ancient rites. In addition to the usual lessons in anatomy and technique, her students learn Hawaiian chants, plant medicine, and ho‘oponopono (conflict resolution). Before graduating, they tour sacred sites around the island and perform community service, such as caring for heiau (temples), and working in lo‘i kalo (taro patches). “When you bring the physical body into alignment, it brings the spiritual and emotional body into place . . . so that we walk in line with our ancestors,” says Naluai. “Each vertebrae is an ancestral support that helps us to stand and walk.” Lomilomi has the potential to “heal a person’s path backwards and forwards,” she says. She’s a living example. By picking up the lost thread of lomilomi, Naluai reestablished the lineage of healers within her family. Her many beneficiaries include not only her clients, but her students, children, and future grandchildren. For more information or to book a treatment, call 808-573-8256, or visit hoomanaspamaui.com.
40
www.mauimagazine.net
Above: Naluai leads lomilomi students and guests on tours of sacred Hawaiian sites around Maui. Right: As part of their training, students help maintain these sites and volunteer at local lo‘i kalo (taro patches).
Far from the island’s glamorous resorts, Ho‘omana Spa’s tranquil setting in Pi‘iholo invites a deep relaxation and disconnection from the daily hustle and bustle.
¹
SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS
Enjoy the hospitality of Maui’s plantation era at the historic Pioneer Inn on Lahaina Harbor. Plenty of Places to Shop with Over 14 Retailers ∏ Restaurants Tickets For Less Paradise Lahaina
The Parrot Guy
Red Dirt Shirts
Best Western Pioneer Inn 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina (808) 661-3636 www.pioneerinnmaui.com
Rappel Maui’s Dave Black (in orange vest and hard hat) serves as belay guide on this thirty-foot waterfall. Should the client lose his grip on the rope, a quick tug by Dave keeps him secured in place.
42
www.mauimagazine.net
Dave Black has my life in his hands, and he’s promised he won’t let me fall. I press my feet against the slippery cliff as cool water splashes my face before roaring towards the pool below. The harness around my waist feels snug, and the rope in my hands feels taut, as Dave instructs in a powerful voice while manning the rope from above. “Stop and tuck in those boardshort strings,” he shouts. “A waterfall is a terrible place to get stuck.” As the head guide for Rappel Maui—the only company on the island that takes you rappelling down waterfalls—Dave has a calm, professional demeanor and has assured me he “has my back.” Though Rappel Maui started in 2012, Dave’s been climbing and canyoneering since the late 1960s (“I’m almost older than rope”). He’s the author of six climbing books and is a search-andrescue veteran, so as I precariously ease my way over the ledge, I know I’m in good hands. Craning my chin back over my shoulder, I stare at the pool more than fifty feet below, and search for a place to put my right foot, which is now freely suspended in air. I let the rope slide through my right hand, keeping it close to my hip, as Dave instructed. Having grown up on Maui as a cliff-jumping youth, I’m no stranger to the hidden waterfalls that line East Maui’s windward coast, but standing here in the Garden of Eden—the lush compound on the road to Hāna where Rappel Maui has access to private waterfalls—I quickly realize that rappelling and cliff jumping are really nothing alike. For one thing, facing the waterfall means you can’t quite see your target, and the goal of the rappel is to walk down the fall, rather than simply jump. You must trust that the rope attached to your harness will, actually, hold, and that the system of anchors, carabineers—and Dave—will safely get you to the bottom. By the third and final rappel, this new adventure begins to feel natural, and I take Dave’s advice of leaning farther back before he can even say it. At the end of the trip, our troop of seven climbers has soaking-wet hair, muddy calves, and a well-earned sense of accomplishment. “Best activity of the trip?” asks one, stepping out of his harness. “Without a doubt,” replies another, “although I’m kinda glad it’s over.” Rappel Maui offers two tours per day. For more information, visit rappelmaui.com or call 808-270-1500.
« MAUI STYLE »
HOW TO WALK DOWN A WATERFALL Story & Photography by Kyle Ellison
Same client, different waterfall—this one fifty feet tall. Two guides assist on each descent, one below to belay, one above to advise the client on where to step, how far to lean back, how to hold onto the rope.
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
43
Harvesting « ISLAND BUSINESS »
COURTESY OF HĀLI‘IMAILE PINEAPPLE COMPANY
Despite a smaller market slice, Hāli‘imaile Pineapple Company is reaping sweet success.
44
www.mauimagazine.net
aui old M G STORY BY KATHY COLLINS
Maui Gold pineapples thrive in the volcanic soil and cool climate of upcountry Maui. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
45
« ISLAND BUSINESS »
I
In 2007, Maui Land & Pineapple Company stunned the local community by closing its Kahului cannery after seventy-five years of operation. Two-and-a-half years later, when Maui Land & Pine shut down its fresh-fruit operations as well, we mourned the apparent demise of the island’s century-old pineapple industry. Only a generation ago, pineapple was Hawai‘i’s second largest export crop, providing more than 80 percent of the world’s supply. For people around the globe, the golden fruit came to symbolize the Islands themselves—until foreign competition from countries with far lower production costs began dumping fruit on the market in the 1990s, and dethroned “King Pine.” But in 2010, a small group of former Maui Land & Pine executives and managers, along with Ulupalakua Ranch owner C. Pardee Erdman, chose to defy the odds and formed the Hāli‘imaile Pineapple Company. They leased more than 1,500 acres of Maui Land & Pine’s fields in upcountry Hāli‘imaile, purchased equipment from the company, and retained sixty-five employees who would have otherwise lost their livelihood. Today, Hāli‘imaile Pine’s subsidiary, Maui Gold Pineapple Company, is the exclusive grower of the supersweet hybrid for which it’s named. Maui Gold harvests the premium fruit year-round, averaging 12,000 cases per week. That’s 3.7 million pineapples a year. As a child in 1960s Maui, I grew up surrounded by pineapple fields, literally. My grandmother, like many local families, owned a small pineapple patch in Ha‘ikū and sold the fresh fruit to one of the three canneries operating on Maui at the time. My mother and aunt both worked for Maui Land & Pine throughout their adult lives; Mom as a secretary and records coordinator, and Auntie Sachan as executive secretary to CEO J. Walter Cameron and then to his son, Colin, when the younger Cameron assumed the reins. Sometimes my mother would pick me up after school and take me back to her desk at the Hāli‘imaile opera-
46
www.mauimagazine.net
tions base, where I was allowed to play on the lawn fronting the office, as long as I stayed far from the driveway where the trucks rumbled in, one after the other, having deposited their cargo at the Kahului cannery. Each December, Colin’s wife, Margaret, delivered dozens of jars of her homemade mango chutney to the office staff, and freshly baked gingerbread men for their children. To this day, the smell of gingerbread reminds me of Hāli‘imaile and Mrs. Cameron’s gentle smile. Throughout my youth, mornings began with a chilled glass of sunshine-yellow pineapple juice, and I could always count on finding a bowl of fresh-cut fruit in the refrigerator after a hard day at play. This was before the development of hybrids like Maui Gold, so the sweetness of our daily snacks varied. No matter, if the pineapple was sour, a little salt magically took away the bite. Mom would also sprinkle salt on my tongue whenever I got “itchy mouth” from eating too much fresh pine. Now, thanks to the low acid and high sugar content of Maui Gold, we no longer need the saltshaker. Hāli‘imaile Pine harvests its fruit at the peak of its juicy ripeness and delivers it to local markets within two to three days. Even mainland orders, which make up about 20 percent of Maui Gold sales, are shipped via FedEx two-day service, guaranteeing optimal freshness. That singular focus on high-quality, fresh fruit has proven a more successful strategy than Maui Land & Pine’s emphasis on canning—and serves, perhaps, as a cautionary tale for established companies whose enormous investments of time and money make them unable or unwilling to adapt to changing markets. Touring the Hāli‘imaile operations, I feel as though I’ve returned to a childhood home. The new company occupies much of the original Maui Land & Pine base yard and buildings. The office is now housed in a large garage where remnants of the past, including industrial safety warning signs and faded photographs, adorn the walls. My guides are President & CEO Darren Strand, formerly Maui Pine’s director of field operations, and Executive Vice President Rodrigo “Rudy” Balala, who started as a teenaged field worker in the summer of 1979. During his thirty years with Maui Land & Pine, Rudy worked his way up from picking fruit and driving trucks to managing harvesting operations and then serving as director of harvesting and
In 2010, a group of formerMaui Pine managers chose to defy the odds.
LEHIA APANA; TOP RIGHT: COURTESY OF KATHY COLLINS
From left: Pineapples grow for eighteen months, but are perfectly ripe in the field for only fortyeight to seventy-two hours. Sadami Miyauchi, my “Auntie Sachan,” at her desk at Maui Pine’s Hāli‘imaile office in the late sixties. Auntie and I hold trophies she and her husband, Minoru, won in the company’s bowling league, circa 1962. Uncle Minoru worked in Maui Pine’s dispensary.
LEHIA APANA
Left to right: With a few deft strokes of his machete, Rudy Balala slices into a Maui Gold pineapple at its peak of ripeness. The hand-picked fruits take an environmentally friendly, ozone-based bath before employees pack them for shipping and sale.
packing operations. Both are hardworking, hands-on managers who feel more at home in the fields than in a boardroom. They are passionate about honoring Maui’s pineapple heritage while ensuring its future through modern farming practices and sheer determination. “Pineapple ag on Maui may be on a smaller scale,” says Rudy, “but it’s an integral part of the island’s identity.” Although Maui Land & Pine was primarily a canned-pineapple enterprise (thirty years after foreign competition began to erode Hawai‘i’s domination of the market in the 1960s, it was the last plantation in the state to continue canning), it hadn’t quite placed all of its eggs in one basket—or can. The company maintained an experimental department to work on hybrids for the fresh-fruit market, and collaborated with agricultural giants Dole and Del Monte to establish the Pineapple Research Institute at the University of Hawai‘i. In 1973, the institute’s Dr. David Williams developed a cross variety— PRI 73-50—that was low in acid and extra sweet. It was unsuitable for canning, but perfect for eating fresh. When the institute closed in 1986, Dr. Williams went to work for Maui Land & Pine and continued to refine 73-50 and other varieties until his retirement in 1992. It wasn’t until 2005, after the canning business had ceased to thrive, that Maui Land & Pine introduced 73-50 to the market as Maui Gold. Hāli‘imaile Pine is strictly devoted to fresh fruit. And except for a display garden of nearly 100 varieties, Maui Gold is all the company grows. “We inherited the world’s premier pineapple, and it’s a healthy product,” says Strand. “We are genuinely passionate about our crop.” Here in the subtropics, it’s pretty much impossible to grow pineapple as a commercial crop without some use of pesticides, so the company goes out of its way to implement other sustainable farming practices: composting, meticulously conserving water, and leasing 400 acres more than production requires, to allow fields to lie fallow. Harvested pineapples undergo an ozone-based water rinse certified for use on organic produce, rather than the traditional chlorine-based spray. Through an innovative approach to harvesting and packing procedures, Hāli‘imaile Pine has reduced culls (rejected fruit) from 30 percent to less than 3 percent. “The previous model was to harvest and deliver as many tons as possible from the farm to the cannery and packing shed,” says Darren. “The burden that placed on quality control led to a lot of culls. Our model is different. The same people who pick the fruit on Monday
will pack it on Tuesday; this alone reduced rejects by nearly 20 percent. And the few tons of fruit we leave in the field because of size or cosmetic issues are harvested the following week and used in a valueadded product such as fresh-cut or frozen chunks.” Darren credits the company’s success to its current eighty or so employees, some of whom have toiled in the pineapple industry for over thirty-five years, all of whom are willing to do tasks other than their officially designated duties. Those workers who harvest one day and pack the next help eliminate the employee downtime that specialization creates. No wonder Darren says, “Our workers are our most valuable asset.” Watching them at work, interacting with the bosses as easily as they do with each other, I can see that the spirit of ‘ohana still prevails here at Hāli‘imaile, preserved as part of the Maui pineapple legacy. That sense of family and community extends to partnerships with other Maui businesses and organizations. Maui’s Winery at Ulupalakua Ranch produces three different pineapple wines made from the juice of fresh, hand-picked Maui Gold, and Maui Culinary Academy at UH–Maui College produces a smoky-flavored roasted Maui Gold pineapple jam, created by the students and sold to benefit the Academy’s research and development program. Strand says there is a stronger demand for Maui Gold in the local and statewide markets than originally anticipated, so the company is working toward a slight expansion, primarily by capturing value on fruit that would normally not be harvested because of less than perfect external appearances: undersized fruit, blemished skin, etc. These new markets will include more juice production for Maui’s Winery, freshly cut and ready-to-eat pineapple, and quick-frozen chunks. You can glimpse the history and the future of pineapple on Maui firsthand by taking the Maui Pineapple Tour through Hāli‘imaile Pine’s fields and packing facility, with colorful commentary and ample sampling. Go Zip, LLC (mauipineappletour.com), offers two tours a day, seven days a week. Every guest receives a fresh, whole pineapple at the end of the tour. Sorry, no gingerbread men or chutney. To read Jill Engledow’s comprehensive review of Maui’s pineapple history, visit mauimagazine.net/Maui-Magazine/March-April-2010/ Aloha-Pine. And try Hāli‘imaile Pineapple Company’s recipe for pineapple salsa at mauimagazine.net/MauiGold. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
47
A MONTAGE A film producer and an interior designer create a residence that’s truly camera worthy. Story by SARAH RUPPENTHAL | Photography by GREGORY PIERCE 48
www.mauimagazine.net
« AT HOME »
OF LUXURY Opposite: Amari chairs by Janus et Cie surround a Sutherland table whose unfinished teak will mellow with age, becoming a soft, warm taupe. The effect, as intended, is a comfortable lānai on which to linger over morning latte or an evening glass of wine. Above: Montage linens make a statement in simplicity, accented by pillows and shams personalized to this guest suite.
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
49
50
www.mauimagazine.net
Top: Furnishings echo the living room’s clean, geometric lines. The sisal rug is by Stark Carpet; a cocktail table of Macassar ebony displays an oversized teak-root bowl. Above: An expansive glass door leads to a foyer whose focal point is an arresting table of organic chamcha wood. A Lawrence & Scott squash-glazed porcelain lamp suffuses the bark-paper wall covering in a welcoming glow.
TOP: BARBARA KRAFT; BOTTOM: GREGORY PIERCE
Dave and Arleen McGlade fell in love with Maui the first time they traveled here in the 1980s. “We always said: ‘One day, we’ll come back and have a special place on Maui,’” says Arleen. “It’s been in our brains for a very long time.” Arleen is a film producer, Dave a telecommunications CEO. In January 2014, the jet-setting couple set out to find a vacation home on Maui that would suit their on-the-go lifestyle. “It was an exploratory mission,” recalls Arleen. After looking at just about everything on the market, the McGlades found the perfect home-away-from-home where they least expected it: the new Residences at Montage Kapalua Bay. “I had never considered a residence in a hotel, but we like to look at things outside our box,” says Arleen. “When I stepped foot on the property, it clicked.” Arleen recalls that she walked the grounds to feel a sense of place. “I found so much history and respect for the Hawaiian culture there. I felt instantly connected to the land and the sea.”
« AT HOME »
TOP: GREGORY PIERCE; BOTTOM: OLIVIER KONING
Above: Outdoors, Kapalua Bay hugs the ocean, edged by sugary sand. Right: The master suite’s subdued palette creates a harmonious backdrop for that ocean view. Headboard and bed frame are woven hemp; the rug, by Stark Carpet, is pearl-woven jute. Beyond the Wicker Works chair and ottoman, the theme of open weaves extends to the lānai, whose Janus et Cie sofa and Amari lounge chairs afford comfort without limiting the view.
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
51
« AT HOME »
“The owner peeked inside the model while I was working on it. She said, ‘I love it,’ and we went from there.”
52
www.mauimagazine.net
The McGlades settled on a three-bedroom residence with nearly 2,800 square feet of interior space and a 630-squarefoot lānai. The top-floor, corner location takes in a view that is at once intimate and expansive: in the near ground, the curve of Kapalua Bay; beyond that a scalloped coastline that yields to the ocean and the island of Lāna‘i. The next order of business was outfitting the “blank canvas” of the interior to create a casual, inviting second home and vacation rental. The resort’s model unit, designed by Kari Demond of Texas-based KLM Interiors, provided inspiration. “Arleen peeked inside the model while I was working on the installation,” Kari recalls. “She said, ‘I love it,’ and we went from there.” The two women met only once, collaborating mostly via phone calls and emails in what both describe as a successful long-distance relationship. The trick, says Kari, is to listen. “I always ask my clients about their specific goals, their lifestyle, and what they want the space to accomplish.” “Working with Kari was great,” Arleen concurs. “We have a lot of the same sensibilities.” The McGlades opted for many of the furnishings and accessories displayed in the Montage Residences model, but
GREGORY PIERCE
Top: Pendant lights above the kitchen’s island complement the dining room’s airy chandelier. Mustard-yellow stools by Janus et Cie, and granite counters and splash add light notes to the richness of African mahogany cabinets and Brazilian hardwood floors. Left: As welcoming as the master suite, this guest room is large enough to carry off a Kobe-style king canopy bed. Woven shades by Conrad have an abaca and reed design; chair and ottoman, in natural rope weave, are by Wicker Works.
TOP: JOHN GIORDANI; BOTTOM: GREGORY PIERCE
Above: Owners and guests of The Residences enjoy all the amenities the Montage at Kapalua Bay affords, including private cabanas surrounding a multitiered lagoon pool. Right: The master bath’s soaking tub and limestone-walled shower elevate the concept of “standard” appliances. Handpainted, mulberrypaper panels on the model unit’s accent wall are made by a village collective in China, following recipes nearly 900 years old!
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
53
« AT HOME »
GREGORY PIERCE
they also wanted a vacation home that was uniquely their own. “Montage”—a movie term—became a fitting metaphor, as the interior designer and the film producer worked to select, edit and piece together a family-friendly haven. Dave and Arleen envisioned their home as a natural extension of land and sea; that got Kari modifying the interior color schemes. “Blue is Arleen’s favorite color; she does everything in blue, and asked me to push her out of her envelope,” Kari explains. “So I did.” The designer relegated blue to an accent color for the bamboo green that dominates the residence—a gesture to the home’s lush surroundings, particularly the palm trees that fringe the property. “We didn’t want to compete with Mother Nature,” she explains. “The goal was to be synergistic and create a sense of cohesiveness.” Accomplishing that goal meant that the residence was still a work in progress as this story went to press, with Kari adjusting the color palette to enhance the collection of works by local artists that Arleen has been gathering over the course of several months. They range from eye-catching oils and richly hued, handwoven tapestries, to antique ‘ukuleles and vintage 1960s Hawaiian shirts. “I spent countless hours looking at as many portfolios as I could get my hands on,” says Arleen. “I wanted everything to be fun and The entry corridor leads to the living room and lānai, and beckons the eye to the coastal view beyond.
• Factory Direct Pricing • Everything in Stock and Ready for Delivery • New Arrivals Weekly
Get the Designer Look without the Designer Price! 703 Lower Main Street, Wailuku • 242-1863 www.lifestylemaui.com
54
www.mauimagazine.net
Visit Our Beautiful Showroom
We offer a large selection of Living Rooms, Dining Rooms, Bedrooms, Rugs, Home Accessories and Gifts
respectful of Hawaiian culture.” As she pored over those portfolios, Arleen e-mailed photos of the art to Kari. “We would discuss why a particular piece would be the best choice for a particular wall,” says Kari. “Then we would modify [paint] colors to work with the art. “The art is really what sets this residence apart,” Kari adds. The McGlades also requested a few changes to ensure the home’s durability and livability—for example, incorporating lounge chairs with wider arms to invite a lazy afternoon of reading; and custom accent chairs covered in swimsuitfriendly, indoor-outdoor fabric. “We tweaked a lot of the fabrics for durability,” says Kari. Arleen also opted for dark wood furniture, which adds depth and richness. Arguably the most striking feature of the living room is the vaulted ceiling, which Arleen decided to cover with subtle swaths of grasscloth. “I put grasscloth in the model’s powder room,” explains Kari. “Arleen loved it and wanted to add it to her living room ceiling.” The dining room’s focal point will be a conversation piece: a nine-foot, marigoldyellow surfboard with a striking red-and-blue design, mounted horizontally on the wall. To underscore the boldness of the surfboard, Kari chose a subdued shade of blue-green for the walls. “The colors complement the art,” she says. The surfboard’s vibrant colors will also reflect in the gleam of a custom cerused
56
www.mauimagazine.net
GREGORY PIERCE
« AT HOME »
210 Alamaha Street, Kahului • 808.873.6910 • mauihue.com
COURTESY OF MONTAGE KAPALUA BAY
Ownership here has its privileges—among them, full access to the resort’s beach club, whose trellised pavilion descends to a saline pool, an infinity edge, and an endless view of the blue Pacific.
oak slab (a finish that can withstand a lot of abuse) atop a cast stone pedestal. Kari was delighted to discover that the stone pedestal is the same shape as the wooden bowls used in Polynesian ‘awa cleansing ceremonies. Other defining touches will include a set of high-backed, swivel barstools for the kitchen bar, perfect for lingering over coffee while drinking in the view beyond
3031 OLD HALEAKALA HWY: Perfect for a large, growing or multigenerational family. Pukalani home, conveniently located minutes away from the Kula schools, The Pukalani Superette, the shops at Pukalani Terrace and the Hannibal Tavares Community Center. Only 15 minutes from Central Maui. Well maintained, owner occupied.
Offered at $850,000 | MLS #361102 JAMIE WOODBURN, R(S) | EMAIL: JAMIEWOODBURN1@GMAIL.COM | CELL: 808.870.5671 Upcountry Office • (808) 572-8600 • www.islandsir.com |
EACH OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
57
RARE
SPECTACULAR
Oceanfront Property
Kapalua Acreages
A SPECTACULAR 2 ACRE, beachfront lot located in an exclusive and very private community in Olowalu. The parcel has an approved County of Maui Farm plan, breath-taking views of Lanai, Kahoolawe and Maui’s South shore. The owners will enjoy a lifetime of endless tropical sunsets and gentle breezes. The parcel is builder ready, comes complete with a producing citrus, mango and coconut orchard, features large Monkeypod shade trees, and a private dual water system for domestic and agricultural uses. The perfect location for your private, oceanfront Maui home. Conveniently located directly across from Leoda’s Pie shop in Olowalu and midway between Wailuku and Lahaina. A MUST-SEE for the discriminating buyer.
Honolua Ridge - Phase I, Lot #12: 81 Keoawa Place, Kapalua 9.298 acres perched above Honolua Bay with a private access road that drops you right in front of one of Maui’s most alluring and special bays. Stunning views of Molokai and the West Maui coast. The perfect location to build the home of your dreams surrounded by lush tropical gardens. The views are endless, the air is crisp and the beaches and golf are only minutes away.
Privacy, Mature Fruit Orchards, Builder Ready
With Stunning Ocean and Mountain Views
Offered at $1,295,000
Property is offered at $5,800,000.
Honolua Ridge - Phase II, Lot #22: 242 Keoawa Street, Kapalua 6.259 acres of breathtaking views. From your house site you’ll enjoy endless views of nearby islands, tropical sunsets and the deep blue waters of the Pilolo Channel. Situated near the top of the development you have easy access to pristine mountain hikes, the beaches of Kapalua and enough land to create your own private tropical paradise.
Offered at $1,595,000
JAMIE WOODBURN, R(S) | EMAIL: JAMIEWOODBURN1@GMAIL.COM | CELL: 808.870.5671 UPCOUNTRY OFFICE • (808) 572-8600 • WWW.ISLANDSIR.COM | EACH OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED
« AT HOME »
JOHN GIORDANI
Indoor/outdoor fabric and low-maintenance teak make this Sutherland lounge chair ideal for the lānai. A cast-stone cocktail table adds a rustic evocation.
the kitchen bar, perfect for lingering over coffee while drinking in the view beyond the oversized lānai; and a king-sized bed in the master suite that’s outfitted in a dark taupe reminiscent of the bark of a kukui tree. In the master bathroom, Kari plans to line an accent wall with hand-painted mulberry wallpaper, using a pattern suggested by the resort’s cultural ambassador, Silla Kaina, who influenced many of the Montage Residences’ aesthetic choices. The pattern depicts two mountains—one of which is Haleakalā, Maui’s dormant volcano—resting above a body of water, symbolizing life as it flows from the mountain to the ocean. One of the home’s two guest suites is the same as in the model. The second will be one of a kind, with sturdy furniture and accessories, and two queen-sized beds, to maximize flexibility as a vacation rental. Arleen plans to display island-inspired art in both guest rooms to add a pop of color and personality. “I would define the Montage style as ‘sophisticated island,’” says Kari. “The McGlades added a playful, tropical element.” When complete, the design and installation will have taken nearly a year, but for Arleen, collaborating with Kari has made all the difference. “In the end,” she says, “it was a dream come true.” Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
59
From mauka to makai . . .wherever your island dreams may take you.
L AUNIUPOKO
NAPILI
KA‘ANAPALI
L AHAINA
KAHANA
KAPALUA
Your West Maui Experts
NAPILI PLAZA
•
808.665.1166
•
WWW.ISLANDSOTHEBYSREALTY.COM
Rob Shelton, R(B)
Courtney Brown, R(S)
Lori Powers, R(S)
Anita White, R(B)
Ben Willis, R(S)
Vice President Cell: 808.281.4024 rob@IslandSothebysRealty.com MauiLuxuryProperties.com
Vice President Cell: 808.250.0210 cb@LuxuryRealEstateMaui.com LuxuryRealEstateMaui.com
Cell: 808.344.4427 lori@GreatMauiProperties.com GreatMauiProperties.com
Cell: 808.345.7654 anita@AviatorAgent.com AviatorAgent.com
Cell: 808.298.3498 ben@IslandSothebysRealty.com KapaluaRealEstateToday.com
Pictured clockwise from left: 789 Punakea Loop (SOLD), Launiupoko | 43 Papalaua Place, Napili | Masters 1005, Ka‘anapali Lahaina Roads 312 & 408, Lahaina | Kahana Sunset C-1, Kahana | The Coconut Grove 9 & 16, Kapalua EACH OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED
When it comes to supporting local, sustainable fishing, Mama’s knows best.
STORY BY BECKY SPEERE PHOTOGRAPHY BY RYAN SIPHERS
Third-generation fisherman Layne Nakagawa proudly shows off a freshly caught mahimahi that’s bound for Mama’s Fish House.
64
www.mauimagazine.net
Dining
A bit of culinary alchemy, and the fish debuts on Mama’s menu: crusted with Kula kale and macadamia nuts, sautéed with Tahitian vanilla, and served with a taro cake and island vegetable medley. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
65
Dining
The sun’s barely peeking over the horizon, but we’re already at sea. Layne Nakagawa readies the lines for a day of fishing.
It’s 5:30 a.m., the moon is a sliver, and a cool wind is blowing at fifteen knots. We are standing in the thirty-eight-foot Radon Naomi K. as Layne Nakagawa starts up the diesel engines, sending shivers through the boat. My stomach flutters with excitement. Catching fish is one of the purposes for today’s excursion; the other is to change the satellite beacon on a fish aggregation device. Known as FADs, these structures float on the surface, attached by anchors to the ocean floor, creating habitat where small fish tend to congregate—attracting the larger fish that eat them. “FADs don’t necessarily make fishing easier,” says Eric Kingma, “but they make it more efficient, by reducing search time and trolling costs.” Kingma coordinates the National Environmental Policy Act for the Western Pacific Fishery Management Council (WESTPAC), established by Congress to promote environmentally responsible fishing. In 2011, WESTPAC placed a couple of FADs in the waters off Kahului. One of them is where we’re heading. Nakagawa reverses the boat into Kahului Harbor and shouts over the engine. “Floyd and Doris are so committed to sustainable fishing. When they asked me to show you the fish aggregation setup, I told them, ‘No problem.’” Floyd and Doris Christenson opened Mama’s Fish House on Maui’s north shore in 1973. Today daughter Karen manages the South Seas-themed restaurant that put the little community of Kū‘au on the national map. Mama’s has long been a proponent of local agriculture and sustainable fishing. That support also runs deep. In 2013, WESTPAC’s FADs detached from their anchors, and Kingma says local fishermen felt the impact of their loss. Mama’s Fish House offered to help, and a public/private partnership was born. “We maintain the permits,” says Kingma, “but Mama’s paid for assembly and deployment of the FADs. When they were redeployed, we named them for Mama’s: MFH1 and MFH2.” A third-generation fisherman, Nakagawa is also a FAD installa-
66
www.mauimagazine.net
tion coordinator for WESTPAC; he designed and helped build both of Maui’s FADs. “The one we’re going to, MFH1, [is] anchored at 7,200 feet—almost a mile and a half deep, and twenty-five nautical miles offshore. The other FAD is forty miles out, anchored at 20,000 feet.” That’s twice the height of Haleakalā. An hour passes as the boat cuts through pounding black waves. Slowly, the sky begins to brighten as the sun rises through the clouds. I feel like Hemingway’s seafaring old man; there is a freedom that comes from being set loose on the ocean. Ricky Pojas, Naomi K.’s cocaptain, sights ‘iwa (frigate birds) diving into the ocean; there are fish ahoy, 200 yards away. As Pojas takes the controls, Nakagawa and fishing partner Ryan Koshi don rubber boots and overalls. Hooks baited with live ‘ōpelu (Pacific mackerel scad) barely touch the surface when, boom! Fish on! Another line goes in and a wild dance begins as Nakagawa and Koshi reel and lift fish onto the deck. Twenty minutes and 100 pounds of fish later, we move on to MFH1. Light flashes below the surface: hundreds of fish encircling the FAD. Nakagawa yells, “Brah, the mahi stay swimming around the buoy like koi! Almost can gaff ‘em!” The frenetic dance resumes as Koshi and Nakagawa bait, hook and reel in mahimahi, tossing smaller fish back. After nearly an hour, Nakagawa calls for Koshi to stop baiting and has Pojas pull up to the buoy for the next task: replacing the beacon. I had asked Eric Kingma whether FADs encourage overfishing. “Our pelagic species are fairly healthy,” he said, adding that, while globally there’s concern over numbers of striped marlin and yellowfin tuna, “here in the northern subtropics, we’re fishing from large populations. We’re not overharvesting. That said, we still have voluntary data collection through Mama’s and WESTPAC.” Kingma encourages consumers to “Buy local. We know our fish populations, we know how much we’re taking, and where our fish go. Our fishermen are fishing in an environmentally friendly manner”— which may not be true for imported fish.
Navigation Light Spar Buoy
100’ Chain
Sinking Nylon Rope Splice
Floating Nylon Rope
Shackle Swivel Connection
ILLUSTRATION: SHELBY LYNCH
Clockwise from top: Tethered to the ocean floor, a fish aggregation device (FAD) similar to those deployed in Maui waters reduces the time fishermen need to spend trolling at sea. Near MFH1, Nakagawa and Koshi reel in a fine mahimahi. Nakagawa installs the replacement GPS beacon.
Maui’s fishermen know the numbers and species caught, says Nakagawa, because they log their catches daily. “We also log the weight of the fishes at Mama’s,” he says. “And I do a catch, tag and release so we can follow the different species’ age and growth rates. At one point we overfished onaga and ‘ōpakapaka and had to stop. After a two-year ban, we are able to fish again because the population is up. The research is ongoing. It’s so important in keeping our fisheries healthy and sustainable.” As we approach the tiny flotation device, it’s obvious to me that this could be dangerous. Earlier, Nakagawa shared a story about a nearunsuccessful jump onto the MFH2 buoy while white-tip sharks circled the slippery, seaweed- and guano-encrusted FAD. Now, as he lowers himself over the rail of the boat with a beacon replacement in hand, I feel my heart racing, until he grabs the pole secured in the middle of the FAD. The ocean is churning as Koshi throws supplies to him: cutters, wrenches, pliers . . . amazingly, nothing falls into the depths. Twenty minutes later, Nakagawa waves for us to retrieve him. As boat and buoy toss in the waves, he leaps and grabs for the railing.
Koshi leans forward to grab his arm, holding on for dear life. Sighs of relief and laughter fill the cabin as Nakagawa steadies himself against the rail. It’s 2:30 p.m. as we pull back into Kahului Harbor, where the crew will spray down the boat and fishing gear, and transfer a hold full of mahimahi into ice-filled, insulated boxes for early-morning delivery. Nakagawa arrives at Mama’s Fish House at dawn. The delivery dock bustles as fishermen drop off their catch. Mike Pascher, Mama’s chef de poisson, grabs his clipboard and logs the weight and types of fish, data he will later send to WESTPAC. Pascher is in charge of the temperature-controlled room where whole fish is stored and cut into serving-sized portions that will star in Mama’s award-winning recipes, such as panang curry; kale- or macadamia-nut-crusted; or onaga with papaya-lychee black-bean sauce. We head into Mama’s kitchen, where Executive Chef Perry Bateman is creating a dish just for us: mahimahi wrapped and baked in ti leaves. While he’s kind enough to share the recipe, he’s a fan of experimentation. For example, he says, this technique also works Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
67
Dining
Above, left to right: In the fish room at Mama’s, Rensner Hebel deconstructs the mahimahi into servingsized portions. Below: a few of the steps in preparing pan-seared mahi with caramelized Maui onions, Hawaiian chili-pepper water, Kula watercress and quinoa-jasmine rice.
68
www.mauimagazine.net
In the kitchen, Mama’s hot line springs into action as orders pour in.
with other types of fish. “The richer the fish, the less butter or oil you have to add. The leaner the fish, the more butter or oil you may want—but the more you use, the more citrus juice you will want to add to balance the flavor and richness. “Experiment with your favorite vegetables, herbs, and other ingredients, such as mushrooms, cooked artichoke hearts, capers, olives, basil or fermented black beans. Shrimp, chorizo or Chinese sausage can amp it up even more,” he says. “You get the drift. Be creative and have fun.” For Chef Bateman, Mama’s support of sustainable fishing follows a tradition as old as the Islands’ pre-Contact past. “Like the ancient fishponds in Hawai‘i, the fish aggregation devices are a part of our fishing culture now. With proper management, they are a guarantee that there will be plenty of fish for future generations.” And if we’re lucky, plenty to enjoy prepared à la Mama’s Fish House. Watch a clip of fisherman Ryan Koshi reeling in a mahimahi at mauimagazine.net/FollowTheFish.
Ti-leaf-baked Mahimahi
THIS PAGE & OPPOSITE BOTTOM LEFT (2): COURTESY OF MAMA’S FISH HOUSE
YIELD 2 Servings PREP TIME 1 hour | Cooking time: Approximately 15 minutes INGREDIENTS 2 sheets of foil, 16x18 inches each kosher salt & fresh-ground black pepper ½ cup olive oil smoked paprika (optional) 1 teaspoon garlic, minced 1 teaspoon ginger, minced 1 small Hawaiian chili pepper, minced 1 Tahitian lime (or other citrus such as calamansi, Meyer’s lemon, tangerine) 2 tablespoons butter 2 teaspoons Yamasa shoyu (less salty than other brands) 2 tablespoons fresh curly parsley or Chinese parsley (cilantro), washed and minced 2 6- to 8-ounce mahimahi fillets 6 ti leaves, stems removed & steamed or microwaved 1 minute (Keeps leaves from burning during cooking) 1 baby bok choy, cut into 1-inch pieces 2 cups kale, cut into 1-inch pieces ½ cup won bok (Napa) cabbage, cut into 1-inch pieces 4 cherry tomatoes, cut in half 1 heirloom tomato, sliced ¼-inch thick 1 small Maui onion, sliced ¼-inch thick 2 tablespoons scallions (green onion), sliced thin ½ cup ‘ulu (breadfruit) or potato, peeled and steamed until cooked, chilled and cubed into 1-inch pieces ½ cup purple Moloka‘i sweet potato, peeled, steamed, chilled and cubed into 1-inch pieces
PROCEDURE Preheat oven to 425 degrees. For each serving: Lay out 1 sheet of foil, cut the ti leaves into 1-foot lengths, and place 2 leaf sections on the foil with points facing away from you and the sides slightly overlapping. Lay 1 ti leaf horizontally across the middle of the vertical ti leaves. Mix the chopped kale, baby bok choy and cabbage in a bowl. Place 1 cup of the mixed greens in the middle of the ti leaves. Drizzle generously with olive oil and season with salt, pepper, and a squeeze of fresh Tahitian lime juice. Lightly season both sides of the fish with salt, pepper, and a dusting of paprika. Place fillet on top of the greens, then drizzle fish with half the soy sauce. Circle the fish with julienne onions, cherry tomatoes, cooked ‘ulu (or potatoes) and sweet potato. Place 1 tablespoon butter on top of the fish, then top with half the sliced heirloom tomato and 1 lime wheel. Sprinkle on 1 tablespoon of scallions. Mix garlic, ginger and chili pepper; sprinkle half the mixture over the fish. Drizzle generously with olive oil and a squeeze of fresh Tahitian lime, and lightly season with salt and pepper. Fold the foil up on all sides to create a square packet, crimping the edges together for an airtight seal. This creates a steam chamber for the fish to cook in. Any hole in the foil will lengthen cooking time and result in dry fish. If you make a hole, lay down another piece of foil, place the whole package in the middle and wrap again. Place packets in the oven and cook about 15 minutes. Take care when opening the packet, since that will release the hot steam. Check to see whether the fish is cooked to your preference; if not, reseal foil and let it rest on the counter for a few minutes. It will continue to steam and cook. PLATING Remove the cooked lime wheel and add a fresh one for a bright presentation. Sprinkle some parsley on top. Carefully grasp the top and bottom edges of the vertical ti leaves and lift the portion out of the foil. Place in a serving bowl. Drizzle remaining sauce from foil over the fish and vegetables . . . that’s the good stuff.
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
69
E
kipa mai (welcome) . . .
Share the aloha in a journey through Polynesia. The Feast at Lele brings you a royal tour of the cuisine of Polynesia which shares the spotlight with music and dance from four exotic Pacific islands.
Come visit,
“This is the most fabulous cooking on Maui, which is saying a lot.” —Travel & Leisure “an intimate experience with ‘up to date’ Polynesian cuisine . . . the entertainment is top-notch.”
H awa i ‘ i
Ao t e a r o a
—Travel Holiday
Ta h i t i
Brought to you by the creators of Old Lahaina Lu‘au & Pacific’O Restaurant. Menu developed by “Maui’s Best Chef” (The Maui News), James McDonald.
667-LELE (5353)
Toll Free : (866) 244-5353 (Lele) 505 Front Street, Lahaina Town, Maui, Hawai‘i 96761 www.feastatlele.com
Samoa
Photos: Robie Price
For reservations call
Dining » BECKY’S BACKYARD
In most aspects, yellow and purple liliko‘i are similar, except for the color of their skin and pulp. Some say the pulp of the purple-skinned variety is less tart than the yellow. The seeds are edible, but if you don’t like them, a food mill is the most efficient way to separate them out.
STORY BY BECKY SPEERE
TOP (2): CONN BRATTAIN: BOTTOM (2): FOREST & KIM STARR
A PASSION O FOR O LILIKO‘I
The Jamaican liliko‘i has a distinctly variegated purple-and-white flower. Its yellow-skinned fruit is much softer than that of more common varieties, and its sweeter, floral flavor makes it well worth searching for.
Sometimes all you need is a liliko‘i to fill your day with sunshine. My nephew Spencer, a lanky high-school senior visiting from Las Vegas, was helping me gather liliko‘i from the yard when he asked, “Auntie, can I eat this?” I answered, “Of course! Just put it between your palms and press hard.” As he squished the fruit with the strength of the Hulk, seeds and pulp exploded onto his clothing, and orange trails of juice ran down his suntanned arms. After a moment’s wide-eyed surprise and embarrassment, he happily licked the sweet-sour juice from his hands. I know, bad auntie—but one of life’s pleasures is introducing someone to his first liliko‘i with a splatter of juice and seeds. Liliko‘i is the Hawaiian word for passion fruit. A vine native to South America, it was brought to the Islands in the 1920s. The most common variety on Maui is the yellow liliko‘i (Passiflora edulis forma flavicarpa). It’s available much of the year, and during the peak summer season, its Jurassic vines can bear hundreds of fruits. As it ripens, the fruit turns yellow and falls from the vine, and is still tasty even after it starts to wrinkle. While liliko‘i can be eaten raw, its naturally high acidity makes it perfect for blending into
baked goods, frozen custards, and drinks. Jamie Woodburn, a.k.a. Liliko‘i Man, processes a ton and a half of fruit during the summer to extract seventy-five gallons of purée for his liliko‘i-butter business. If you don’t need industrial quantities, you can make your own purée this simple way: Cut the fruit in half, spoon the pulp and seeds into a blender, blend on low speed for thirty seconds, then strain through a medium-fine metal sieve. I like to use a saimin strainer for its deep basket and wire grid. You can find the strainer at TJ’s Warehouse in Wailuku. The folks at Travaasa Hāna serve a yummy “Japanese cheesecake” at their Ka‘uiki Restaurant, and were kind enough to share their recipe. (See page 72.) Feel free to use homemade or store-bought granola—just make sure it’s fresh and crunchy. And you can find Jamie’s Liliko‘i Butter at Maui Coffee Roasters, or email jamie woodburn1@gmail. com. During the season, buy liliko‘i at our local farmers’ markets, or in the tropical fruit section of grocery stores. Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului • 877-2877 • mauicoffeeroasters.com TJ’s Warehouse, 875 Alua St., Wailuku 244-7311 • tjscateringmaui.com Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
71
Dining » BECKY’S BACKYARD
TRAVAASA HĀNA’S JAPANESE CHEESECAKE (Travaasa’s Chef Konrad Arroyo serves this dessert with fresh liliko‘i, but says you can substitute other fruit toppings, such as Maui Gold pineapple or pink soursop.) Yield 6–8 servings | Prep Time 30 minutes; chill 6 hours
Topping Ingredients 6 ounces Jamie’s Liliko‘i Butter (See page 71 for substitutions.) 1 fresh liliko‘i (or juice from 1 lemon and 1 teaspoon lemon zest) ½ cup granola, or more to taste Method Mix liliko‘i butter with pulp and seeds from 1 fresh liliko‘i or 2 tablespoons lemon juice, plus 1 teaspoon lemon zest. Spoon 1½ tablespoons onto each cheesecake portion, then top each with 2 tablespoons granola.
NINA KUNA
Ingredients 1 package gelatin 3 tablespoons hot water 10 ounces cream cheese, room temperature 5 ounces granulated sugar 2 egg yolks (fresh or pasteurized) 2½ tablespoons milk ¾ teaspoon vanilla extract 2²/ cups whipped cream
Method Sprinkle gelatin over hot water in a heatproof bowl. Let bloom 5 minutes. (Do not stir.) Mix next 5 ingredients well with softened gelatin. Whip cream into soft peaks and gently fold into cream-cheese mixture. Divide into decorative cups or mason jars. Chill.
72
www.mauimagazine.net
UNCOMPROMISING SINCE 1985
Potato scaled mahi-mahi, on a bed of grilled asparagus, potato puree, a cabernet beurre rouge, sprinkled with white truffle oil.
Founder/CEO Aaron Placourakis was raised around great food. And like all Greeks, he was instilled with the belief that “family” isn’t limited to close relatives, but includes all who are gathered around the table. It’s an approach that’s perfected by his team, who greet you at the door as a friend. We invite you to join us. Be a part of the family. Create unforgettable memories in the most spectacular settings on Earth. And rediscover the joy of good living.
Maui’s premier seafood restaurant Happy Hour Nightly Come in and see our new private dining room 808 879-7224 | Wailea
WWW.TRISTARRESTAURANTS.COM
Spectacular dining on the beach Happy Hour Nightly Now serving breakfast 808 875-7555 | Kihei
Discover Wailea’s Newest Luxury Spa The new Willow Stream Spa features 13 treatment rooms, heat & hydro facilities, locally-inspired treatments and the newest state-of-the-art spa technology, including the WaveMotion massage table, the Vichy Shower and the K-Lift Facial.
Only at The Fairmont Kea Lani, Maui in Wailea. To reserve your experience, call 808.875.2229 or visit willowstreamspamaui.com
Enter to win the No Ka ‘Oi Luxury Stay & Spa Getaway. Visit MauiMagazine.net to enter. Travel + Leisure Magazine’s 2014 Top Hotel Spa: Hawai‘i
Dining » DINING HIGHLIGHTS
Left & above: Travaasa Hāna’s Ka‘uiki Restaurant serves its mac-nut-crusted ‘ōpakapaka (snapper) with an orange liliko‘i reduction, and an alfresco view of the hotel’s flower gardens.
“You’re a dining editor,” said my mainland cousins at the start of their weeklong visit. “Impress us.” How could I turn down a challenge like that? STORY BY BECKY SPEERE
5 DAYS, 5 WAYS
O TOP LEFT: NINA KUNA; TOP RIGHT: COURTESY OF TRAVAASA HĀNA; BOTTOM (2): BECKY SPEERE
O‘o Farm Breakfast Tour
My cousins’ body clocks were still on mainland time, so they were happy to wake with the chickens, since a gourmet breakfast came with the package. O‘o Farm’s resident Rhode Island Reds and the farm’s catuai coffee trees (a cross between Brazilian Mundo Novo and Caturra) cohabitate happily at a cool 3,500-foot elevation. Our guide, Chris, walked us through permaculture gardens and coffee groves, sharing his mana‘o (thoughts) about growing organic coffee, then served us coffee three ways: French press, pour-over, and espresso. All this talk got us clucking for caffeine and eggs baked with veggies fresh from O‘o’s garden and bursting with flavor. After breakfast, a short walk took us to the new coffee-roasting facility to learn about O‘o Farm’s coffee-bean processing. The folks behind award-winning Pacific’O Restaurant own the farm, and handle reservations for lunch or breakfast tours.
grass-fed beef tataki on a citrus-and-black tea reduction spiked with lemongrass, ginger and Hawaiian chili pepper. It paired perfectly with my cousins’ mai tai, which was handcrafted with Hāna-fresh fruits. I gave four stars to the generous portion of just-caught mahimahi, cooked Tahitian-style with coconut and lime juice, tossed with juicy bites of pomelo and avocado, and served with crunchy sweet potato and ‘ulu (breadfruit) chips. The delicate, macadamia-crusted fish of the day, garnished with an orange liliko‘i reduction and green basil oil, was a perfect marriage of crunchy, tart, herbaceous and
ocean-fresh flavors; and came with a side of creamy coconut mashed potatoes and local seasonal produce. Travaasa sources its seafood and beef locally; perhaps it’s the terroir surfacing in the fresh preparations that lets the ingredients shine with umami brilliance.
I
5031 Hāna Highway, Hāna 808-248-8211 | travaasa.com
Laulima Catering I still swoon when I think about Chef Lyndon Honda’s sautéed Brussels sprouts with salty, caramelized bits of garlicky pancetta and flakes of aged Parmesan drizzled with a
I
651 Waipoli Road, Kula 808-667-4341| oofarm.com
Travaasa Hāna The road to Hāna was already on my cousins’ wish list. The chance to dine at Travaasa Hāna’s Ka‘uiki Restaurant moved it to number one. Chef de Cuisine Konrad Arroyo prepared a seared Maui Cattle Company
Breakfast beneath a grape arbor: O‘o Farm’s rainbow kale, fennel and Maui-onion frittata with wood-oven-baked focaccia and pineapple-persimmon marmalade Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
75
Dining » DINING HIGHLIGHTS
Left: Laulima Catering’s seared shrimp and scallops with Thai curry and coconut forbidden rice. Right: Chef Lyndon Honda garnishes a salad of local kale with Meyer lemon vinaigrette.
Son’z lagoon is a scenic backdrop for dishes like ‘ōpakapaka with artichokes and rich lemon caper butter sauce.
76
www.mauimagazine.net
salad dressed with bright lemon and garlic. Later, at home, I found my cousins drooling over Chef’s online menu: maple-liliko‘i-glazed pork tenderloin, Kona kampachi with a pipi kaula (marinated smoked beef) poke, and local asparagus and Moloka‘i sweet potato hash. My choice? Chocolate cake with a side of salted caramel ice cream and roasted apple banana with rum crème anglaise. Or maybe those li hing mui-merlot-poached pears. . . . 808-989-4733 | laulimacatering.com
Son’z Steakhouse “So far, so terrific,” said my cousins. “What’s next?” “That’s easy,” I replied. “Swans.” Swan Court, to be precise. As we descended the stairs into the elegant setting for Son’z Steakhouse, white and black swans glided by in the lagoon at the restaurant’s edge. Son’z is a Tri-Star restaurant, and owner Aaron Placourakis and Chef Geno Sarmiento take pride in friendly service, exciting mixology, and farmand ocean-to-table dining. For starters, we savored fresh ‘ahi lightly dusted in aromatic Moroccan spices and seared briefly, then fanned atop a spicy mustard soy—a delightful mash-up of Pacific Rim and Middle Eastern flavors. Farro grains and Surfing Goat Dairy cheese with pomegranate vinaigrette topped a sweet Maui beet salad that was generously portioned, but so delicious, no one wanted to share. One cousin tucked contentedly into a grilled, twenty-two-ounce, bone-in rib-eye steak. The other declared the Maui snapper the perfect catch: seared golden, moist to the bite, and served with artichokes in a lemoncaper butter sauce. The baked potato was loaded with crisp bacon, sweet truffle butter and mascarpone cheese, but I wisely saved room for dessert: bananas Foster with Son’z signature bread pudding.
I
Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa 200 Nohea Kai Drive, Kā‘anapali 808-667-4506 | sonzrestaurant.com
Top: Chef Sheldon Simeon’s seared ‘ahi with avocado purée. Above: Dining editor Becky Speere is in stellar company with (from left) Chef Bloc’s Jeff Scheer, Isaac Bancaco and Simeon.
Chef Bloc My cousins had to fly home before getting to enjoy Chef Bloc, an intimate dining experience held the second Saturday of each month in Andaz Maui’s Ka‘ana Kitchen. No way was I going to miss this innovative collaboration by some of the island’s most luminous chefs. On this night, Chef Bloc featured Ka‘ana Kitchen’s Isaac Bancaco, Sheldon Simeon of MiGRANT and Mala Wailea, and Jeff Scheer, the creative talent behind Maui Executive Catering. Scheer presented a perfectly executed amuse-bouche: a creamy foie gras au torchon (the free-range goose raised humanely in Ha‘ikū) wrapped in a sleeve of buttery crisp pumpernickel, topped with a dollop of persimmon and green tomato chutney, and paired with Lambert de Seyssel’s Petite Royal sparkling wine. A 2011 Nikolaihof Gruner Veltliner paired with Simeon’s seared ‘ahi, foie gras and avocado. The wine’s light notes of fruit and smoke enveloped the salt-andpepper-crusted fish and penetrated the burnt-caramel richness of the foie gras and avocado purée. Cardoons from Kupa‘a Farms created soft beds for a crisp salsify root salad and duck prosciutto, while the fourth course tickled with puffs of foie gras powder and dazzled with shreds of dried duck-neck jerky on crispy burnt rice crackers. Bancaco’s burnished duck á l’Orange had
TOP LEFT (2): COURTESY OF LAULIMA CATERING; TOP RIGHT (2): JOSE MORALES; BOTTOM (2): COURTESY OF SON’Z STEAKHOUSE
thick, sweet balsamic vinegar reduction. Chef departed the brick-and-mortar eatery where he used to prepare that dish; now his company, Laulima Events & Catering, will deliver such fare to your doorstep. When Chef Lyndon and his staff catered a recent tasting in Kapalua, my cousins and I happily scored an invitation. We savored appetizers of Asian turkey meatballs infused with ginger and Thai basil on a piquant lemongrass gastrique. Chef’s beef carpaccio—baby arugula wrapped with thinly sliced beef and laced with a tart lemon aioli and crunchy fried capers—captivated my cousins. So did the red and white quinoa salad with pohole (fiddlehead fern) in an Asian sesame dressing, and a classic Caesar
a rich hoisin-peanut butter reduction, only to be one-upped by his pa‘i‘ai taro prepared two ways: one a crisp and chewy bite reminiscent of fried mochi cake (rice dumpling); the other grated and playfully presented in a fluffy mound that was delicate, yeasty and breadlike, and topped with orange zest. Halfway through this feast, a palatecleansing, fresh yuzu icee prepared us for the next four courses. . . . Scheer’s duck terrine on rye saimin noodles in a katsuo (fish) broth preceded Simeon’s dry-aged duck breast smoked with pili grass and served with a purée of baked ‘ulu (breadfruit). Brunello di Montalcino, 2007 Castiglion del Bosco, provided just the right acidity to balance the sweet persimmon fruit and smoky duck. As I savored Bancaco’s famous foie gras malasadas and the grand finale—salty/sweet Waialua chocolate foie gras pots de crème and creamy peanut-butter crunch—I vowed to make it to the next Chef Bloc. Maybe the cousins can join me next time.
lahaina fried soup yakitori
pahole salad
star udon
garlic noodles
singapore noodles
steamed pork buns hapa ramen
ahi avo pad thai
sake cocktails
I
Andaz Maui at Wailea 3550 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea 808-573-1234 andazmauireservations@andaz.com
Just steps from the waters edge. Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary pacific cuisine at it’s best!
Pacific’O welcomes Executive Chef Anton Haines. Anton has established himself as one of Maui’s rising star chefs with his unique approach to food in this “farm- to-table” setting. He describes his food as “simple dishes with a modern twist” which will stir up comforting memories of the past and present.
505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
77
Dining » RAISE YOUR GLASS
A Wine Advice Column BY CHARLES FREDY
WHAT’S BEHIND THE PRICY LABEL Ever wonder why certain wines are so expensive, others so cheap? The better question might be, does the wine’s quality justify its price? Many factors can influence higher wine prices, some as straightforward as supply and demand. The 2013 documentary film Red Obsession showed how the demand for top Bordeaux wines by China’s wealthy class pushed the prices to ridiculous heights, placing those wines out of reach of many oenophiles who wanted to drink them for the pleasure, not just the prestige. One example: in 2007, a 2001 Chateau Lafite Rothschild sold for an average $273. During the buying frenzy of 2011, the price hit $1,300! The more valid reasons for a wine’s price relate to its quality and complexity—the concentration of flavors it delivers. The more flavor complexity a wine exhibits, the more expensive it will be. That’s because it takes meticulous farming practices to produce such wines: you start with perfect fruit and then add
the winemaking skill, the wine’s time in the cellar, the equipment used. A brand-new French wine barrel holds sixty gallons, and costs approximately $1,200. Leave the wine in that barrel for three years instead of one, and your cost goes even higher. Farming organically or biodynamically can push up costs, too. It’s the hard way to produce wine, but it can also increase the quality of the grapes. One of the ways I like to evaluate a wine is its “cost per flavor.” Say the price for a particular bottle of wine is $20. As you savor it, see if you can enumerate all the individual elements and nuances you experience in the wine. If there are twenty, you’re paying $1 per flavor/ enjoyment. Now let’s say a second wine costs only $10, but you struggle to list even five flavor elements. That means you are paying $2 a flavor. So much for value! If you figure out what you like in a wine, and the pleasure you get from the experience, you will find the range of wines you are comfortable with.
Charles Fredy is an advanced sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers, and a certified specialist of wine with the Society of Wine Educators. A thirty-six-year veteran of the wine-andspirits industry, he is director of sales and marketing for Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants Hawai‘i.
Here are some of my selections that offer excellent value in cost per flavor:
2 3 4 5 6
Henri Bourgeois, Sancerre, Les Baronnes Blanc, Loire, France, $30 Chateau de Pierreux, Brouilly, Cru Beaujolais, France, 2012, $20 Ramey Wine Cellars, Claret, Napa Valley, 2012, $45 Obsidian Ridge Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Hills, Lake County, 2011, $30 Chateau Rousseau, Bordeaux Rouge, France, 2012, $15 Vina Cobos, Felino, Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina, 2013, $20
Got a wine question? Contact Charles Fredy at facebook.com/ChambersWinesHawaii.
78
www.mauimagazine.net
1
2
3
TOP: JOSE MORALES
1
fresh ingredients. inspired flavors. great value.
SELECTIONS FROM OUR DINNER MENU SOUTH MAUI BARBECUE BABY BACK RIBS • GRILLED SHRIMP & PINEAPPLE RELISH SHRIMP & PENNE PASTA PUTTANESCA • CRISPY COCONUT SHRIMP CILANTRO & MACADAMIA CRUSTED MAHI-MAHI • PEPPER SEARED AHI
RESERVATIONS ( 808 ) 875 - 5888 5:30 PM - 10:00 PM . OPEN FOR DINNER & SUNDAY BRUNCH LIVE NIGHTLY ENTERTAINMENT . COMPLIMENTARY VALET PARKING
5400 MAKENA ALANUI . WAILEA-MAKENA HAWAII 96753 . WWW.MAKENARESORTMAUI.COM/DINING
“Its authenticity, intimacy, hospitality, cultural integrity and sheer romantic beauty have made this Maui’s top lu¯‘au.” F r o m m e r ’s M a u i
H awa i i M a g a z i n e
“This is the best lu¯‘au on Maui. I rate it the best in the state.” Featured in:
Emeril Live National Geographic Traveler New York Times The Travel Channel K a h i l i A wa r d s
1999 “Show”, 2000 “Attraction” Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau
Voted “Best Lu¯‘au”by Maui Residents Zagat Sur vey
“Excellent” “Extraordinary to Perfection” For Reser ved Seats Call
(808)667- 0700 To l l f r e e
(800)248-5828 www.oldlahainaluau.com 1251 Front Street, La¯haina Along the ocean in Historic La¯haina Town
Dining » MAUI MIXOLOGY
‘ŌKOLEHAO More than 200 years after Islanders learned the art of distillation, Hawaiian moonshine is reclaiming the spotlight. STORY BY BECKY SPEERE
INGREDIENTS
4 chunks fresh pineapple 2 amarena cherries (available in gourmet food aisles, or substitute ½ shot of cherry liqueur) 1 ounce Maui Platinum Rum ½ ounce ‘ōkolehao (made by Maui Rum) ½ ounce ginger lemongrass syrup (See recipe below.) ½ ounce lime 2 dashes of Fee Brothers Rhubarb Bitters ½ ounce Maui Dark Rum
METHOD
Muddle pineapple and cherries together. Add next five ingredients, shake with ice and strain over rocks. Top with the dark rum. Ginger Lemongrass Syrup
INGREDIENTS
2 cups filtered water 1 cup sugar 1 tablespoon ginger paste (or substitute fresh ginger, muddled) 1 tablespoon lemongrass paste (or substitute fresh lemongrass, muddled)
METHOD
Bring water to boil in a pot. Add ginger and lemongrass and whisk. Simmer 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool, then transfer to a jar and refrigerate.
82
www.mauimagazine.net
Bottoms up: Adding cane sugar, tropical flavorings and other refinements, Haleakala Distillers has repositioned the drink whose name means “iron bottom” as an upstanding, sippable liqueur.
The result was often a harsh distillate, sort of a Hawaiian white lightning, which helps explain why ‘ōkolehao had largely disappeared by the mid-twentieth century. Haleakala Distillers (which also makes Maui Platinum and Dark rums) has resuscitated the recipe, adding a proprietary blend of flavorings and a touch of sugar to create a sippable liqueur with tropical-fruit overtones. Our thanks to James Shoemaker, head bartender at Dazoo restaurant in Pā‘ia, for sharing the recipe for his Year of the Dragon Mai Tai.
PHOTO BY SHELBY LYNCH. TOP LEFT PROVIDED BY DAZOO
YEAR OF THE DRAGON MAI TAI
A few years ago, our friends Andy and Tammy Paul invited my husband, Chris, and me to dinner at their home in Ha‘ikū. After we feasted on kiawe-grilled beef kalbi, potato salad and white rice, our hosts suggested an after-dinner drink. They opened the kitchen cabinet and pulled out a single bottle of . . . what? Not even the Pauls knew. Tammy’s grandmother, Helen Walsh Davis of Kahului, had given it to them thirty years earlier as a wedding gift—telling them at the time that the bottle held liquor at least sixty years old. This slightly cloudy, orange-brown drink tasted like nothing we’d ever imbibed. As luck would have it, a few days earlier I had met a Kentucky whiskey distiller who lived on Moloka‘i in 1956. Later, when I described the drink to him over the phone, the seventytwo-year-old gentleman said it sounded like ‘ōkolehao. “Please get me a sample and I’ll run some lab tests on it at my distillery.” Ōkolehao, also known as Hawaiian moonshine, showed up in the Islands after Westerners arrived and introduced the natives to the art of distilling. The fellow who did so was an escaped convict from Australia, one William Stevenson, who took a pair of the iron try-pots whalers used to render blubber, and turned them into a boiler for a rudimentary still. Side by side, the two round pots “were said to resemble a woman’s plump backside,” says whiskey blogger Matthew Rowley, “and the nickname ‘iron bottom’ stuck.” (‘Ōkole means “bottom,” hao means “iron”; put them together with proper Hawaiian syntax, and you get ‘ōkolehao.) A while later, my distiller friend called to confirm the lab results: the sample I’d given him tested as ‘ōkolehao with “overtones of coconut.” He noted that, in the past, old whisky barrels from whaling ships were repurposed for ‘ōkolehao, and coconut shells were added to the barrels for flavor. Like other home brews, ‘ōkolehao varied in its recipes. The most traditional method was to steam the huge roots of mature ti plants—which converts the carbohydrates to sugars—then ferment and distill the mash.
Roasted Sea Bass THREE
OF
THE
TOP
B B M
ZAGAT
RATED
RESTAURANTS
E I M
ON
MAUI
’ ...
complimentary valet parking Hawaii’s First Forbes Five-Star AND AAA Five Diamond Resort
Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea
•
Reservations: (808) 874.8000 • 3900 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, Maui Hawaii 96753
Become a fan on
and follow us on
and
@FSMaui
dining guide B = Breakfast BR = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner N = Dinner past 9pm RR = Reservation recommended $ = Average entreé under $15 $$ = Under $25 $$$ = Under $40 $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2014
WEST SIDE ‘Aina Gourmet Market, Honua Kai Resort, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2800. Chef James McDonald oversees this deli’s menu, right down to the sun-ripened tomatoes and Maui onions grown upcountry at O’o Farm. Deli. B, L. $ Alaloa Lounge, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 RitzCarlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. A multiple ‘Aipono Award winner, this stylish bar attracts a cocktail generation as lovely as the views. Sushi. D, N. $ Aloha Mixed Plate, 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322. Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $ Amigo’s, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210. Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, chile verde, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Huge portions. Kidfriendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $
Black Rock Kitchen, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808-921-4600. Classic steakhouse fare with an island twist. Try the 16-ounce Black Angus rib eye or fresh catch with chef’s signature farm-to-table preparations. American/Hawai‘i Regional. D. $$$ Cane & Canoe, Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Kapalua Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6639. The bright and lively breakfast menu includes poke fruit salad, Europeanstyle pastries and top-notch barista service. Later, toast the sunset with Chateau d’Esclans Whispering Angel rosé and succulent grilled octopus with duck chorizo and saffron-coconut veloute. Food service at bar 3–10 p.m. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$ Castaway Café, Aston Maui Kā‘anapali Villas, 45 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9091. A casual beachfront spot for local coffee and eggs Benedict with a view. At dinner, the chockablock wine cellar dresses up the simple, satisfying fare. American. B, L, D. $$ Cheeseburger in Paradise, 811 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4855. This family-friendly restaurant serves
up Angus beef burgers, refreshing salads and fun mixology, all with great ocean views, live entertainment and aloha. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D, N. $$ Choice Health Bar, 1087 Limahana Pl., Lahaina, 661-7711. Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are all made with fresh local ingredients. Daily specials, and an epic entrée with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red-pepper sesame sauce. American. B, L. $ The Coffee Store Nāpili, 5095 Nāpilihau St., Nāpili, 669-4170. Sip a cup of Kā‘anapali Peaberry or a Taste of Paradise paired with a freshly baked muffin, éclair or coconut macaroon. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Cool Cat Café, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 6670908. Burgers, chicken, fish and more, in a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $ Dollies Pub & Café, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Kahana, 669-0266. Hand-pressed crusts and stone ovens are two reasons this casual restaurant and sports bar won the Silver ‘Aipono for Best Pizza. Menu items range from Dollies cheese steak and meatball subs to Mark’s Costa Rican salad. L, D, N. $–$$ Drums of the Pacific Lū‘au, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234. Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kidfriendly. Hawaiian. D, RR. $$$$
fine mexican. seafood. Tequila.
Duke’s, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900. Imagine Old Hawai‘i at this open-air beach house while dining on crab- and macadamia-nut wontons or prime rib. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$ The Feast at Lele, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353. This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Hawaiian/Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Fleetwood’s on Front St., 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. (Yes, that Fleetwood.) British pub meets American restaurant. Kid-friendly. British/ American. B, L, D, RR. $$$ The Gazebo, Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-5621. Mac-nut pancakes, French toast and legendary fried rice served with an ocean view. Kid-friendly. American. B, L. $
Lunch + Happy Hour + Dinner at the fairway shops in kA'Anapali sangritagrill.com +
84
www.mauimagazine.net
+ 8 0 8 .6 6 2 .6 0 0 0
Gerard’s, 174 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-8939. Chef Gerard Reversade delights guests with ‘ahi stew made “just like in the Basque country.” Terrific ‘ahi tartare, perfect pastries. French. D. $$$$ Honokōwai Okazuya, 3600-D L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Honokōwai, 665-0512. Plate lunches piled high with two-scoops rice and mac salad fly out the door of this tiny takeout shop. Local Mixed Plate. No credit cards. Closed Sun. L. $
Honu Seafood & Pizza, 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390. Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$ Hula Grill, 2345 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636. Dip your toes in sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy kiawe-grilled ono on fresh spinach, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music. Kidfriendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$ Japengo, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4796. Savor delicacies like abalone sashimi, and shave your own wasabi root with a sharkskin grater. Japanese/Sushi. D, N. $$$ Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. Kā‘anapali, 661-0011. Sunday’s brunch buffet features a huge selection of traditional and Hawaiian dishes, champagne, and Hawaiian entertainment. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. BR. $$$ Kai, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. Sushi Chef Tadashi Yoshino and his team work magic with spicy tuna, uni (sea urchin) and tai (snapper). Sip unfiltered Japanese saké as you enjoy the coastal view. Sushi. D. $$$ Kimo’s, 845 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4811. Savor one of the island’s best mai tais on an oceanfront lānai. Opt for sweet basil fish or the 32-oz. prime rib. Save room for Hula Pie. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D. $$ Koa’s Seaside Grill, 839 Front St., Lahaina, 6677737. The folks at Gazebo run this oceanfront eatery, and serve the same famous breakfast menu from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Plus pulled-pork sandwiches, prime rib and mahimahi. American. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$ Kobe Japanese Steak House & Oku’s Sushi Bar, 136 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 667-5555. Flying shrimp, whirling spatulas and late-night karaoke make this longtime Lahaina icon fun. Kid-friendly. Japanese/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$ Lahaina Fish Co., 831 Front St., Lahaina, 6613472. Grab an oceanfront seat and dig into fresh mahi and sautéed sea scallops in cream sauce. A wide selection of surf and turf, memorable tropical drinks, and a happy hour that lasts from noon to 6 p.m. L, D. $$–$$$ Lahaina Grill, 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117. This glamorous restaurant is always on point. Sommelier Richard Olson III suggests lively wine pairings for the famed ‘ahi and foie gras. Hawai‘i Regional. D, RR. $$$$ Lahaina Pizza Company, 730 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0700. Deep-dish pizza, hearty salads and sandwiches draw crowds to this relaxed Lahaina hangout. Live music nightly. American/Italian. L, D. $$ Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495. Snack on burgers or appetizers while you view Kā‘anapali’s Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan-Feb 2015
85
dining guide sparkling sands at the Beachside Grill. In the dining room, try the panko-herb-crusted daily catch. Kidfriendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D, N. $$ Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600. The pies may win hearts, but the fried salad and home-baked breads also warrant repeat visits to this homey Olowalu outpost. American. B, L, D. $ Longhi’s, 888 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2288. For breakfast at this open-air landmark, try the eggs Benedict on thick toasted French bread. For dinner, use the jalapeño cheese bread to sop up sauce served with the shrimp Longhi. Italian. B, L, D. $$$–$$$$ LuLu’s Lahaina Surf Club & Grill. 1221 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Lahaina, 661-0808. Creative dishes range from blackened ‘ahi Benedict with Cajun hollandaise, to crispy shrimp tossed in honey-mac-nut aioli, to li hing mui barbecued-chicken flatbread. Kid-friendly. Asian-American. B, L, D, N. $$ Mala Ocean Tavern, 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9394. Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the health-conscious and the hedonistic at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. L, D (BR weekends only). $$ Mama’s Ribs & Rotisserie, 5095 Nāpilihau St., Nāpili, 665-6262. See South Shore listing. Maui Fish & Pasta, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-0668. D.K. Kodama helms this oceanfront eatery. Try Mama Kodama’s meatloaf topped with two poached eggs, crispy onions and gravy on rice; homemade fettuccine with pan-seared mahi, or D.K.’s outrageous dragon sushi. Asian Fusion. B, L, D. $$$ Merriman’s Kapalua, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 6696400. Dramatic views of the golden crescent beach and islands on the horizon accent the largely organic and local menu. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, RR. $$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana, 669-9010. Sushi served on-site, takeout or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and house specialty rolls. Japanese. L, D. $$ Old Lahaina Lū‘au, 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 6671998. Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomi lomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Hawaiian. D, RR. $$$$ Pacific’O, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341. Chef Anton Haines wraps tender lobster in homemade pasta and blankets it with uni emulsion. Or try coconutmac-crusted mahi filet with peanut sauce, served with black Thai mochi rice. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Penne Pasta, 180 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 6616633. Dig into flavorful, affordable pasta dishes while people-watching from this cozy spot tucked down a Lahaina side street. Kid-friendly. Italian. L, D, N. $$ Pineapple Grill, 200 Kapalua Dr., Kapalua, 669-9600. MNKO readers repeatedly vote Pineapple Grill “Restaurant of the Year,” with “Best Wine List.” The menu includes corn bisque with lobster shumai, pistachio-crusted ‘ahi and signature pineapple upsidedown cake. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, RR. $$$ Pi Artisan Pizza, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0791. Handcrafted pizzas baked in kiawe-wood-burning ovens. Build your own pizza with local produce and arti-
86
www.mauimagazine.net
sanal ingredients like homemade Italian sausage and fresh Lahaina tomato sauce. Italian. L, D. $–$$ Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636. Upfront-and-center views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Pizza Paradiso Mediterranean Grill, 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929. Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a perfect side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$ Plantation House Restaurant, 2000 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua, 669-6299. Panoramic views are the backdrop for Chef Jojo Vasquez’s gourmet fare on the famed Plantation Course. Outstanding brunch. Hawai‘i Regional/Mediterranean. B, BR, L, D. $$$ Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Try the bruschetta trio with Surfing Goat Dairy cheese, Hāmākua mushrooms and roasted local tomatoes. Closed Tues–Wed. Italian. D. $$$ Relish Burger Bistro, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. All-natural Kobe beef burgers, fish sandwiches, salads with island greens, and huli huli grilled chicken breast, served poolside in an open-air setting. Kid-friendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Roy’s, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali 669-6999. Chef Joey Macadangdang rocks vibrant local fish and produce prepared with Asian attention to detail. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Lahaina Center, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 661-8815. Steaks worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earn the Ruth’s Chris chain devoted fans. This restaurant doesn’t stray from the flock. Several tables overlook the harbor. American. D, N. $$$$ Sale Pepe, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667. Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads are highlights on a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta tossed with fresh kale and Italian sausage—like Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian. D. $$ Sangrita Grill & Cantina, Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 662-6000. Chef Paris Nabavi and Chef de Cuisine Eduardo Piñeda’s Mexican dishes envelop the senses. Try the piquant, creamy pomegranate guacamole, juicy duck carnitas tacos and refreshing mango ceviche. Open-air dining options and full-service bar. Mexican, L, D. $$ Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286. D.K. Kodama’s wildly popular restaurant draws lines late into the night. Small and action-packed, this classy sushi bar is the place to try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$ The Sea House Restaurant, Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 Lower Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 6691500. Start your day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fresh fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp while the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammy-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack-key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$
Shark Pit Food Truck, 79 Ulupono St., Lahaina, 298-7776. Kabayaki meatball sub, steak or spicy shrimp tacos with Korean aioli, USDA Prime beef burgers and fresh catch on a taro brioche bun. Hawai‘i Regional. L. $ Slappy Cakes, 3350 Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Kā‘anapali, 419-6600. Cook your own pancakes with your favorite toppings, or try weekly specials like steak poke rice bowl. All meat and dairy are hormone-free; pancake/pastry is scratch-baked. American/Local. B, L (D Friday–Sunday). $$ Son’z Steak House, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6674506. Swans glide up tableside here, and the wine cellar ranks among the largest in the state. Chef Geno Sarmiento’s tiger-eye sushi tempura and ‘ahi prime rib with wasabi mashed potatoes are instant favorites. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$$$ Star Noodle, 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 667-5400. Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$ Sugar Cane Maui, 736 Front St., Lahaina, 2146662. French master chef Philippe Chin reimagines island cuisine with ‘ahi nachos on sesame-spinach salad, Asian BBQ short ribs with purple yams, fresh tuna steak on wasabi mashed potatoes and more. Asian Fusion. B, L, D. $–$$$ Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111. The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun dinerstyle ambiance. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $ Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808-921-4600. For starters, try the “Oyster Dan”—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko atop a bed of spinach. Then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate. Japanese/ Steak. D, RR. $$$ Thai Chef, Old Lahaina Center, 800 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814. This small, well-loved restaurant keeps West Side fans coming back for more with its commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $ ‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, D. $$$
CENTRAL Amigo’s, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 872-9525. See West Side listing. Bistro Casanova, 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 8733650. This “downtown” bistro branches out from its Upcountry sister, adding paella for two, fresh-cut french fries, and seductive crêpes to the menu. Mediterranean. L, D. $ Café O’Lei, The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073. Mac-nut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites, served in a setting overlooking a links-style golf course Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan-Feb 2015
87
dining guide and the West Maui Mountains. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ (Second Central Maui location: Waiehu Golf Course, 200 Halewaiu Rd., Waiehu, 242-2770) Da Kitchen, Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782. Any place that claims “the World’s Biggest Plate Lunch” is bound to have a nearreligious following on Maui. Try lip-smacking tempura fish, and pork laulau (pork wrapped in steamed taro leaves). Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $ Leis Family Class Act Restaurant, UH–Maui College, 310 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 9843280. Voted one of the top 100 restaurants in the US by OpenTable.com diners. Three-course prix fixe menu changes weekly. Limited bookings, Wednesdays and Fridays. BYOB. L, RR. $$$ Marco’s Grill & Deli, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-4446. Head to Marco’s for a good Reuben, meatball parmigiano, or tiramisu. Italian. B, L, D. $$ Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-2877. Eclectic artwork and brightly painted tables decorate this popular gathering spot. At Happy Cappy Hour, 2 p.m. to closing, cappuccinos are special price. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Paradise Market, 207 E. Wakea Ave., Kahului, 877-6767. Filipino dishes served plate-lunch style: lechon kawaii (roasted pork with fresh-chopped tomato salsa), pancit, bangus (milk fish), coconut sticky-rice desserts and more. Filipino. B, L, D. $ Las Piñatas, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 8778707. The home of the famous Kitchen Sink burrito,
88
www.mauimagazine.net
plus tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas . . . and a self-serve salsa bar. Ole! Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $
chutney and raita, Indian yogurt sauce. Kid-friendly. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $
Ruby’s Diner, 275 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 248-7829. Classic burgers, all-American sandwiches, deluxe shakes and malts in a nostalgic diner setting. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D. $
Café Mambo, 30 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8021. For lunch or dinner, share the steak, tofu, or duck fajitas, served with a lazy Susan piled high with tasty condiments; or pick up packed lunches for the long trip to Hāna. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $$
A Saigon Café, 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 2439560. Squeeze into a booth beside local lawmakers and order Buddha rolls and lemongrass curry. The comedic servers don’t miss a beat. Vietnamese. L, D. $ Sam Sato’s, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2447124. This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L. $ Wailuku Coffee Company, 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259. Espresso, ice cream and sandwiches cater to the downtown crowd. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Whole Foods Market, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 872-3310. All things fresh and healthy. Order from the deli or construct your own meal from the salad and hot-food bars. Get it to go, or dine here inside or out. B, L, D. $
UPCOUNTRY, NORTH SHORE, HĀNA Café Des Amis, 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-6323. Savory crêpes are served with wild greens and a dollop of sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with
Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli, 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220. Order a tartufo pizza or carbonara pasta at this Upcountry institution, and stay for the night’s entertainment. Visiting musicians make the dance floor one of the island’s hottest. Kid-friendly. Italian. B, L, D. $$ Colleen’s at the Cannery, 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211. Sink into a comfy booth and enjoy a roasted eggplant sandwich on homemade bread. The pizza is a well-loved standard. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D. $-$$. Dazoo, 71 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-9999. Breakfast bellinis and Benedicts; salads and Vietnamese street food at lunch; for dinner, small plates of Korean crispy nori rice chips, Hāmākua ali‘i mushrooms and spicy Maui beef-and-bacon meatballs, all made with Maui fresh produce. Fusion. B, L, D. $$-$$$ Flatbread Company, 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989. Big booths, charity nights, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies have made this a North Shore institution. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$ Grandma’s Coffee House, 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea,
dining guide 878-2140. The eggs Benedict and made-from-scratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion; for dinner, fresh fish or Grandma’s home-style meatloaf with carrot-mashed potatoes. American/Coffeehouse. B, L (D Wed–Sat). $$–$$$
Thai Food by Pranee, 5050 Uakea Rd., Hāna. No phone, no website, no worries. This hole-in-the-wall is worth seeking out for its crispy ‘ōpakapaka with green mango salad alone. Daily specials, generous portions, cash only. Thai. L. $
Hāli‘imaile General Store, 900 Hāli‘imaile Rd., Hāli‘imaile, 572-2666. Chef Bev Gannon dishes up fresh fish, local meats, and regional produce drenched in complex sauces. The towering sashimi appetizer is legendary, as is Bev’s crab dip. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$
SOUTH SHORE
Makawao Steak House, 3612 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-8711. Charbroiled steaks come with baked beans and focaccia bread. Start with the signature onion soup topped with billowy puff pastry. Steak. D. $$ Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488. Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine. Every detail evokes old-time island hospitality, from the walkway’s Escheresque gecko tiles to the mahimahi steamed in traditional lū‘au leaves. Hawaiian/ Seafood. L, D, RR. $$$$ Market Fresh Bistro, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-4877. Chef Justin Pardo brings a passion for sustainable food to this relaxed courtyard gem. Try a breakfast frittata or pan-roasted crab cakes with corn succotash. Dinner served Thursday through Saturday. Call for dates on special farm dinners. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Milagro’s, 3 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8755. The corner of Baldwin and Hāna Highway can’t be beat for people-watching. Sample a variety of fine tequilas and dig into ‘ahi tacos topped with a sweet-spicy salsa. Mexican. L, D. $$ Nuka, 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939. Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then move on to ‘ahi tataki with house-special ponzu sauce. Tempura shrimp udon is light and crispy. Save room for black-sesame or greentea ice cream. Japanese. D. $$–$$$ O’o Farm, 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour. Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and freshly roasted coffee. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted root vegetables and dessert. Maui Comfort Food. B, L. $$$$ Pā‘ia Fishmarket, 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030. The huge slabs of fresh fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the long line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $ Polli’s Mexican Restaurant, 1202 Maka-wao Ave., Makawao, 572-7808. The sign outside says, “Come in and eat, or we’ll both starve!” Follow that advice to find entrees like kitchen-sink burritos and grilled carne asada plates with refried beans and Spanish rice. L, D. $$ La Provence, 5355 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313. The glass case overflows with perfect croissants, fruit tarts, and arguably the world’s best mango-blueberry scones. On Sundays, muscle past Kula’s long-distance cyclists to order a Benedict or salmon-pesto crepe. Bakery. B, BR Weekends. $
Amigo’s, 41 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 879-9952. See West Side listing. Bistro Molokini, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Chef Michael Young has a small child himself, so he knows how to satisfy keiki as well as their parents. Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh local ingredients. Kidfriendly. American. L, D. $$$ Botero Bar, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures that surround it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays—when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. Cocktails. L, D, N. $ Café O’Lei, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368. See Central listing. Caffe Ciao Deli, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Healthy vegetarian fare, deli sandwiches and spectacular desserts abound at this take-out or eat-in deli. Espresso drinks, baked goods and house-made gelato, too. American/Italian. B, L, D. $$ Capische?, Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224. Chef/owner Brian Etheredge presents a sumptuous risotto with white-truffle shavings and quail saltimbocca at his intimate locale. Reserve seats for Il Teatro, downstairs, where the chef cooks regional Italian right in front of you. Italian. D. $$$$ Coconuts Fish Café, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979. Fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers, fish and chips. Frances’s famous cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this place apart. American. L, D. $$ Cow Pig Bun, 535 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 875-8100. If a Brandt premium beef burger slathered in foie gras butter, smokey bourbon-bacon jam and blue cheese makes you want to say, “Moo!” this is the place. Try Aaron’s cocktail with allspice liqueur, fresh lime and bourbon. Maui-style Comfort Food. L, D, N. $$ Cuatro, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-1110. Latin and Pacific Rim flavors mingle at this pocket-sized restaurant. Try spicy ‘ahi nachos or a “Maui-terranian” fish—dressed in basil beurre blanc, salsa, and balsamic syrup. Latin/Pacific Rim. D. $$$ Da Kitchen, Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782. See Central listing. Duo, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Duo reinvents the classic “surf and turf.” Japanese Kobe tenderloin (the real thing) and dry-aged rib eye are a carnivore’s delight. Choose a strong wine to match your meat’s performance. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$$$ Fabiani’s Pizzeria & Bakery, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888. Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan-Feb 2015
89
dining guide salad with locally harvested tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made porksausage meatballs. Italian. B, L, D. $$ Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711. What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked 15 hours over fragrant kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy with sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans, and two cabbage slaws: one sweet-tart, the other with blue cheese and apples. American. L, D, N. $–$$ Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. This poolside restaurant caters to highclass tastes, with lobster sandwiches and gourmet gelato. At night, the atmosphere transforms into an oceanfront slice of Italy. Italian. D, RR. $$$$ Five Palms, 2960 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2607. Watch the whales cruise by and enjoy lobster-tempura sushi and baked artichokes—half-price from 3 to 6 p.m. Breakfast is generously served until 2:30 p.m. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Four Seasons Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. D, N, RR. $$$$ Gannon’s, 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 8758080. Order drinks at the Red Bar, then enjoy Chef Beverly Gannon’s fine comfort food: maple-vinaigrettesweetened chicken salad, or venison atop rich Parmesan risotto. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$
90
www.mauimagazine.net
Humuhumunukunukuapua‘a, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. If fresh island prawns in Thai ginger, tomato broth and tapioca pearls, or brioche- and lemongrass-crusted rack of lamb doesn’t make you want to dance the hula, the tender butter lettuce, Cabot white Cheddar cheese, Asian pears, and candied macadamia nuts tossed in a mustard vinaigrette will. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$ Joe’s Bar & Grill, 131 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 875-7767. Eavesdrop on the rich and famous while digging into sauce-drenched ribs, prime rib or seafood at this insider’s hangout. American. D. $$$ Joy’s Place, 1993 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9258. Brilliant collard-green wraps; sandwiches on thick bread; and awesome, daily made soups are just a few of the reasons to scout out this humble but bright jewel. American/Vegetarian. B, L. $–$$ Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Chef Isaac Bancaco creates seasonal dishes that change weekly, such as lobster bathed in vanilla-cream reduction, watermelon salad with Surfing Goat Dairy feta, and sublime nuggets of foie gras malasadas. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$ Kīhei Caffe, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230. Tasty, egg scrambles, house-baked pastries, fish with rice, and fresh juices lend you strength for catching waves across the street at Cove Park. Kid-friendly. American. B, L. $ Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Plantation Era cuisine
takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer, and “On the Rock”—three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, D. RR. $$$ Longhi’s Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883. Stop in for a crisp pinot grigio and a Longhi Longhi Longhi salad (that’s its real name)— crisp romaine tossed with reggiano cheese, lemonfeta vinaigrette, and anchovies. Italian. B, L, D. $$$ Mala Wailea, Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9394. The ample brunch buffet includes the Mala Benny (with prosciutto, lamb sausage, or wild mushrooms), omelets and chilaquilas. Mediterranean. B, D. $$$ Mama’s Ribs & Rotisserie, 1819 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7755. Succulent baby back ribs and hearty rotisserie chicken, plus daily-made sides like creamy coleslaw, mac salad and BBQ baked beans. Kidfriendly. American. L, D. $ Manoli’s Pizza Company, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499. The latest offering by Tri-Star Restaurant Group, Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppini or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna. American/Italian. L, D, N. $$ The Market by Capische, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 879-2433. Homemade breads and pastas, salads to go, and sandwiches like the Haole Hoagie: pepper-crusted turkey on sourdough with red-dragon cheese and cumin aioli. Full barista service features
dining guide coffee drinks sweetened with fresh-pressed sugarcane juice, and the cheese is made on Maui. L, D. $$ Matteo’s Osteria, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466. Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade. Or try the Tuscan kale-and-hemp salad with lemonhoney-mustard dressing. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Maui Thai Bistro, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8745605. Fragrant with kaffir lime leaves, the Bistro’s tom yum shrimp-fried rice just might become your favorite lunch on Maui. Or try the green-mango salad with crispy fish, then finish with house-made black sesame ice cream. Curries are made to order with freshly ground herbs and spices. Thai. L, D. $–$$ MiGRANT, Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9394. Chef Sheldon Simeon of Top Chef fame creates locally inspired dishes with a sophisticated slant. Pork adobo, savory pancit and crunchy lumpia take on contemporary personalities as Chef Sheldon works his magic. Filipino/Asian. D. $$$$ Monkeypod Kitchen, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 879-2322. Thirty-six craft beers on tap, handcrafted cocktails featuring local ingredients, and a diverse wine list are hallmarks of Chef Peter Merriman’s stylish bar and eatery. American. L, D, N. $$ Morimoto Maui, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Iron Chef’s Masaharu Morimoto combines signature and Maui-centric dishes such as rib-eye beef burgers lobster roll sand-
wiches. Dinner catches fire with prix fixe omakase. Handcrafted mixology and a dazzling selection of sakés. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $$$$ Nick’s Fishmarket, Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a trellis of stephanotis and a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. D, RR. $$$$ Outback Steakhouse, 281 Pi‘ikea Ave., Kīhei, 8798400. Personable servers, steaks and shrimp hot off the “barbie” and a menu just for “joeys” (kids) make eating an adventure at this Aussie-themed chain restaurant. Kid-friendly. Steak. L, D, N. $$ Roasted Chiles, Azeka Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357. Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas and fresh mixology. Mexican. L, D. $-$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880. See West Side listing. Saltimbocca, 300 Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 243-3463. Savor crispy ravioli stuffed with lamb, ricotta and mint; house-made tagiatelle with prawns, asparagus and mushrooms in truffle cream sauce; pumpkin ravioli; or carne platter for two with pork chop, veal piccata, osso bucco and risotto. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$
Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004. See West Side listing. Sarento’s on the Beach, 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555. Inspired entrées are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. RR, D. $$$–$$$$ South Shore Tiki Lounge, Kīhei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-6444. Gourmet pizza, burgers, salads, and several vegetarian items round out this hip bar’s menu. American. L, D, N. $ Spago, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Chef Cameron Lewark’s ‘ōpakapaka sashimi and perfectly seared Kobe beef match the trendsetting wine list note for note. Spectacular sunsets may as well be on the menu. Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Thailand Cuisine, 1819 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-0839. Gracious waitstaff welcome you with a steaming pot of vanilla tea. Sticky rice served in a woven Thai basket perfectly complements the flavorful red duck, lobster, or tofu curries. Thai. L, D. $–$$ Three’s Bar & Grill, 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133. Southwest, Pacific Rim, and Hawaiian flavors mingle at this eclectic bistro. Try the tasty CoCoNut Porter BBQ sauce on the kalua pork sandwich, build-your-own burger, or quesadillas. Pupu served till midnight. Pacific Rim, Southwest. L, D, N. $$ Tommy Bahama’s Tropical Café, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan-Feb 2015
91
9983. Who guessed a clothing company could deliver mean pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, D, N. $–$$
ISLAND OF LĀNA‘I Coffee Works, 604 Ilima St., Lāna‘i City, 808565-6962. Fruity açai bowls, pastries and espresso drinks offer a bright start to your day. Plus light lunch fare, Italian sodas, and Internet access. Café. B, L. $ Lāna‘i City Grille, Hotel Lāna‘i, 828 Lāna‘i Ave., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-7211. Located in a historic 1920s building, the grille offers a menu that will cure your big-city blues, like panko-ginger-crusted mahi on shiitake-mushroom risotto with soy beurre blanc. Closed Mon.–Tues. American. L, D. RR. $$$ Nobu Lāna‘i, Mānele Bay Hotel, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-2832. Teppanyaki tables and a new sushi bar keep company with Nobu’s signature dishes. Japanese. D. $$$–$$$$ One Forty, Mānele Bay Hotel, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-2290. Inspired by Lāna‘i’s 140 square-mile footprint, and the temperature for grilling a medium-rare steak to perfection, One Forty features prime and wagyu beef, local seafood and breakfast buffet. Steak/Seafood. B, D. $$$ Views at Mānele Golf Course, Mānele Bay Hotel, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-2230. Fresh island–Baja cuisine makes Views an olé in one! Mexican. L, Happy Hour. $$$ For more listings visit mauimagazine.net/Dining
a restaurant created by a man who loves to eat Serving Hawai‘i Since 1976
F
Best Award of Excellence Wine Spectator
Best Breakfast in Hawai‘i Zagat Survey
Restaurant of Distinction Honolulu Magazine Hale ‘Aina Award
Best Restaurant Honolulu Advertiser I‘lima Award
Best Italian Restaurant The Maui News “Best of Maui” Award
Best Mediterranean BEST Guidebook
‘Aipono Icon Award, Bob Longhi Maui No Ka ‘Oi Magazine
L A H A I N A / 8 8 8 F r o n t S t r e e t / 8 0 8 . 6 6 7. 2 2 8 8 WA I L E A / T h e S h o p s a t Wa i l e a / 8 0 8 . 8 9 1. 8 8 8 3 HONOLULU / Ala Moana Center / 808.944.3733
WWW.LONGHIS.COM 92
www.mauimagazine.net
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan-Feb 2015
93
Douglas Chun contemporary abstracts
’dawn‘
48 x 60
studio visits by appointment 808-876-0142
douglaschun.com
Arts+Leisure OUR PICKS FOR WHERE TO GO AND WHAT TO DO » COMPILED BY LEHIA APANA
Jan 8-12 Hyundai Tournament of Champions The Plantation Course, Kapalua
2012 STAN BADZ/PGA TOUR
The Hall family, of Pinehurst, North Carolina, are familiar faces at the Hyundai Tourney. Above: Siblings Michael and Elizabeth pose with PGA pro Justin Rose (center) in 2011. Top photo: The Halls, including parents Graham and Ann, returned in 2013, playing with Bubba Watson (center) during the pro-am.
It was the tweet heard around the campus— and one that North Carolina resident Michael Hall will never forget. During opening festivities for the 2011 Hyundai Tournament of Champions in Kapalua, Michael and his sister, Elizabeth, teed up with PGA pro Justin Rose for a charity three-hole challenge. “That night we were sitting at dinner and out on Twitter comes a message from Justin Rose,” recalls Graham Hall, Michael’s father. “Then his phone starts going crazy with all his college friends asking, ‘Did Justin Rose just tweet you?’ It was an incredible honor for Michael.” The Halls have become regulars at the annual tournament, an exclusive invitational for winning professionals from the previous
PGA Tour season. In 2011 and 2013, the entire family—dad Graham, mom Ann, and kids Michael and Elizabeth—stepped inside the ropes to play in the pro-am, the first time with Heath Slocum, the second with Bubba Watson. “Playing with Masters champion Bubba Watson was a real thrill,” says Graham. “To be that close and experience how he hits the ball, his swing, the speed, was just tremendous.” The Halls will be back for the 2015 tournament, which kicks off with the pro-am on January 8, followed by tournament play from January 9 to 12 at The Plantation Course. Defending champion Zach Johnson is expected to return for a chance at the $5.7 million prize purse. Other players who have committed include Bubba Watson, Matt Kuchar, Billy Horschel, Jason Day and Angel Cabrera. The tournament will be televised live on NBC’s Golf Channel. Graham explains that you don’t need to play in the pro-am to see the pros up close. “I’ve been to a few big tournaments, and the real difference with the Hyundai is that it’s so intimate. A smaller number of pros are able to play in it and spectators are able to see a lot of the action close up with a lot of unrestricted views.” » Details at pgatour.com/Hyundai
Winner of the 2012 Hyundai Tournament of Champions, Steve Stricker hits a drive on the 18th hole of Kapalua’s Plantation Course. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
95
Arts+Leisure This sea stack rising from Lāna‘i’s southern shore is the stuff of postcards. It’s Pu‘u Pehe also the setting of a tragic (“Sweetheart Rock”) love story. Legend says that Makakehau, a young warrior from Lāna‘i, fetched a Maui girl named Pehe to be his wife. Fearing he would lose her, he kept her hidden in a cave. One day, while Makakehau was gathering fresh water, he noticed a storm coming and raced back to save her. It was too late: high surf surged into the cave, killing Pehe. The devastated warrior buried his lover at the top of Pu‘u Pehe and jumped to his death eighty feet below. We’ve got a better idea: a romantic getaway at one of the island’s to-die-for hotels. Catch Expeditions’ ferry from Lahaina Harbor on Maui to Mānele Bay on Lāna‘i, and make your own storybook ending. Start here: go-lanai.com
Jan 31
Night at the Cotton Club Historic ‘Īao Theater 68 N. Market St., Wailuku The lights at Maui’s “Cotton Club” flicker for one night only, celebrating Black History Month with a tribute to the legendary New York City nightclub. The revue will recreate the music of Duke Ellington, Cab Calloway and Billie Holiday. Grab your satin doll and swing on down. Dress the part by donning ’20s, ’30s and ’40s threads. 7 p.m. Tickets & info at mauionstage.com
JOHN GIORDANI
Feb 14
96
www.mauimagazine.net
Jan 13–Mar 22
Schaefer Portrait Challenge
Schaefer International Gallery, Maui Arts & Cultural Center One Cameron Way, Kahului The MACC created this statewide juried exhibition to encourage the art of portraiture in the Islands. It happens just once every three years, as some of Hawai‘i’s finest artists capture the personalities and stories that shape local culture. At stake is the coveted $15,000 Jurors’ Choice Award—but you get to have a say, too. Stop by the gallery and cast your vote for the portrait you think deserves the $5,000 Marian Freeman People’s Choice Award. Gallery hours: Tues.–Sun., 10 a.m.–5 p.m. mauiarts.org
BOTTOM: MARK BOWLER/PHOTOSHOT; TOP: COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER
In Season Nēnē Nursery
Feb 23
National Banana Bread Day Maui is lined with roadside stands touting “the best banana bread on the island.” Julia’s Banana Bread in Maui’s remote Kahakuloa village claims to be “the best on the planet.” We’re not arguing. Try some today—or any other day of the year, really. juliasbananabread.com
Winter’s wet weather signals the start of breeding season for the nēnē, or Hawaiian goose. Mated pairs disappear beneath pūkiawe bushes or hāpu‘u tree ferns, where they build nests covered in soft down. For a month, mother goose broods an average of four creamy white eggs while father stands sentry nearby. Come too close and he’ll drive you off with angry hisses and honks. This indigenous species had become extinct on Maui. In 1962, biologists reintroduced several breeding pairs to Haleakalā National Park. Today around 300 nēnē call the park home. They prefer the lowlands where food is more abundant, but up on the mountain, rangers keep feral cats, rats, and mongooses from raiding their nests. Elsewhere in Hawai‘i our official state bird is rebounding, particularly on mongoose-free Kaua‘i. Last year, three goslings hatched on O‘ahu—the first nēnē born on that island since the 1700s. Fluffy grey goslings take up to three months learning to fly. Meanwhile, their parents molt, losing their primary flight feathers while fresh ones grow in their place. Nēnē need special attention during this vulnerable time. Over the years, speeding automobiles have struck the flightless birds. Drive slowly while passing through Haleakalā National Park, a.k.a. the nēnē nursery. You’ll be more likely to spot the rare goose—a boon for you both.—Shannon Wianecki
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
97
Arts+Leisure
Jan 21, Feb 21, Jun 27 DIY IPU
Maui Nui Botanical Gardens 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului
Create an ipu, a traditional Hawaiian watercarrying gourd, during this three-part workshop. Lisa Schattenburg-Raymond will show you how to harvest and process fibers into cordage, and teach traditional tying and dyeing techniques. Take any of the single classes—or take the entire series, and walk away with a functional piece of art. To register, visit mnbg.org.
Feb 13–16 Whale Tales
Maui Theatre, Old Lahaina Center, 878 Front St., Lahaina Ocean robots . . . whales in 3D . . . marine bioacoustics—it’s all part of this year’s Whale Tales lineup. Experts from around the world will share the latest in humpback whale research through presentations, receptions and whale watches. The kicker: most presentations are free and open to the public. Presented by Maui Whale Trust, a nonprofit research and education organization. whaletrust.org
Humpback whale (Megaptera novaeangliae) breaching; NMFS Permit #753
98
www.mauimagazine.net
CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM: ©FLIP NICKLIN/MINDEN PICTURES; PARADISE AERIAL PHOTOGRAPHY; LISA SCHATTENBURG-RAYMOND
Feb15 For the Love of Maui South Maluaka Beach Park, Wailea This 5K fun run benefits Hospice Maui and Valley Isle Road Runners’ youth program. Race starts on the beach below Makena Resort. Register at virr.com.
PLAY MORE
www.waileagolf.com TOLL-FREE 1.888.328.MAUI | 808.875.7450
“ MNK 1/2 p
7.05”w Ship D
THERE’S PLENTY TO PLAY AT HAWAII’S ONLY 54-HOLE GOLF RESORT · Three championship courses · Ocean views from every hole · World-class instruction facility · Dozens of awards from Golf Digest, GOLF, Golfweek, TripAdvisor & more · And seasonal green fee specials, all on magical Maui
WAILEA GOLD | WAILEA EMERALD | WAILEA BLUE
You’re just a tee time away.
YOU DESERVE SOMETHING THIS SPECIAL Your spa experience just got a little more personal. Custom blend your product with our apothecary consultant using local essential oils, fruits, indigenous plants and herbs. Our award winning signature restaurant offers an unforgettable breakfast experience and dinner made with ingredients featuring the best of the island’s neighborhoods and farms.
mokapu
Open 24/7, Mokapu Market is at your convenience, any time of the day. An array of local, natural and organic snacks with menu items perfect for those on the go! Spend your day and evenings enjoying our hand crafted, island inspired cocktails and a perfectly paired menu to enhance your breathtaking views of the ocean and magnificent setting sun. Situated near Mokapu Beach, everything is done with a relaxed comfort, embracing the local lifestyle. At Bumbye Beach Bar, "the moment you arrive, you are right on time." See you bumbye!
3550 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, HI 96753 | +1.808.573.1234 | andazmaui.com facebook.com/AndazMauiWailea andazmaui
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
99
Arts+Leisure
Waihe‘e Coastal Dunes & Wetlands Refuge If the Islands’ open spaces have a guardian angel, it’s the Hawaiian Islands Land Trust (HILT). Statewide, the nonprofit has protected 17,500 acres. Connect with these special places on HILT’s free educational hikes. Tip: Attend HILT’s annual Buy Back the Beach fundraiser Jan. 24 at Old Lahaina Lū‘au, and party for good. Reservations at hilt.org.
Halemanu From an early age,
Halemanu would shadow his musician dad, whose fusion of influences included Hawaiian music and popular tunes from the fifties though the eighties. Today, as a sound engineer and record producer, Halemanu has worked with music legends and familiar Maui faces like Willie Nelson, Fleetwood Mac, Steven Tyler—even Oprah. He shares his “jazz-infused rock-and-roll with Hawaiian soul” during Sunday brunch from 9:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. at the Makena Beach & Golf Resort. halemanumusic.com
Feb Leapin’ Lions It may be the Year of the Sheep, but it’s the lions that will wind their way through Maui, delivering good luck and high-energy cheer. The dancing lions will kick off Chinese New Year celebrations throughout Maui, including Lahaina’s Baldwin Home and Wo Hing Museum on Feb. 20; and the Maui Chinese New Year Festival on Feb. 21 at Maui Mall. For a complete liondance schedule, visit mauimagazine.net/ everydaymaui. 100
www.mauimagazine.net
Every Weekend in February Maui Open Studios Half art exhibit, half scavenger hunt, this monthlong event invites you to mingle with local artists in their studios. Simply download the MOS Guidebook and design your self-guided tour. Unsure where to start? Preview your options during an opening reception on Jan. 31 at Maui Tropical Plantation. mauiopenstudios.com
« Ed Lane demonstrates his “art of exuberance” at his indoor-outdoor gallery Feb. 7 and 8.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: JAMES PETRUZZI; COURTESY OF HALEMANU; DIANE LANE; MICHAEL SUGIMURA
Jan 10 Talk Story on the Land
Where friends and family come to play
808.877.7893 On Maui’s North Shore | 48 Nonohe Street, Sprecklesville | MauiCountryClub.org
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2015
101
ADVERTORIAL
Island Talent
Find the art you’re drawn to.
SEMOIA LIN 808.419.6793
Semoia@C-est-Moi.com C-est-Moi.com Walk into the studio of Semoia Lin, and enter a new dimension of art. Semoia is known for an insatiable appetite for learning new techniques using what she calls “my Nikon eyes.” By integrating high-tech photography and multiple layers of computer programs, she “paints” her images with extraordinary depth of color, texture and perhaps even a bit of mysticism. Most recently she has mastered stroboscopic photography, recording movement that took place in a split second as captured here in her orchid series. “The old masters strove for depth and impact,” says Semoia. “I strive to achieve that same result.” One Canadian admirer summed it up in a letter to the artist, “Your art is something I have not seen before. I appreciate the creative energy and time you have taken to produce such unique pieces.”
DOUGLAS CHUN 808.876.0142 DouglasChun.com A seasoned artist, Douglas Chun continues to broaden his horizon and his extensive body of work. His watercolors have been collected worldwide for thirty years, and recently he has immersed himself in bold abstracts. He is drawn to the mysteries of nature, delivering her sense of order and calm with visual poetry. With his bicultural sensitivities—merging East and West, marrying nature and man, making the invisible visible—his explorations are dynamic and soulful. We invite you to visit his studio/home/ garden to experience the spectrum of his work in watercolor, acrylic and mixed media. You will be delightfully inspired.
102
www.mauimagazine.net
ADVERTORIAL
On Course
Make your friends green with envy.
MAUI COUNTRY CLUB 808.877.7893
mauicountryclub.org
Since its establishment in 1925, Maui Country Club has hosted golf and good times for members and their guests. It is that and more today—with a historic open-air clubhouse, golf course, tennis courts, swimming pool and pavilion, restaurant and ballroom, the Club is their home away from home. The fitness center and classes, book club, wine club, ‘ukulele players’ group, and a social calendar of events for the whole family make Maui Country Club much more than facilities— it is a casual and friendly place where members of all ages have a lot of fun! Located on Maui’s famed North Shore, with private access to Baby Beach from its 66-acre hideaway. Maui Country Club . . . Where Friends and Family Come to Play!
WAILEA GOLF CLUB
808.875.7450 Toll Free: 888.328.MAUI waileagolf.com With three 18-hole courses, two clubhouses, a world-class instruction facility, and a host of amenities, there’s more to love about golf at Wailea than at any other destination in Hawai‘i. Collectively, Wailea Golf Club’s Gold, Emerald, and Blue courses have earned over a hundred accolades for everything from course quality to customer service. Each lovely layout is different and fun, with amazing ocean and island vistas from every fairway—so be sure to bring your camera. Guests can also test-drive Wailea’s premium rental clubs, browse the award-winning pro shop, arrange for a pre- or post-round massage, take a professional golf lesson, and relax at some of the best 19th hole options anywhere. Visit our website for more information, including seasonal specials. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan-Feb 2015
103
ADVERTORIAL
KĀ‘ANAPALI GOLF COURSES
Kā‘anapali’s Golf My Way! Traveling with a nongolfer? Kā‘anapali offers 18 holes of golf over a seven-day period so you can fit golf to your schedule when it’s convenient for you! Play a few holes before breakfast one day, after the beach or before dinner another day until you play 18 holes. If you’re looking to play golf and get fit, Kā‘anapali’s Fit Club is an afternoon fitness club, with
808.661.3961 Toll Free: 866.454.GOLF kaanapaligolfcourses.com
unlimited daily walking golf after 4 p.m. Just $99 per month. Two great ways to experience Kā‘anapali—join us, where the world comes to play! At Kā‘anapali’s 19th holes, Paradise Grill and award-winning Roy’s Kā‘anapali, be sure to treat yourself after your round for lunch or dinner. Stay connected on Facebook and Instagram @kaanapaligolf.
MAHALO FOR YOUR SUPPORT OF THE 2015 TOURNAMENT FOR INFORMATION ON THE 2016 TOURNAMENT, VISIT PGATOUR.COM/HYUNDAI
104
www.mauimagazine.net
‘ai: to eat | pono: excellence
‘aipono wine dinner series:
an educational culinary experience . . . with benefits
LEARN
DRINK
EAT
SUPPORT
The ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series brings you fine wines paired with superb cuisine at surprisingly reasonable prices. Proceeds benefit UH Maui Culinary Academy. Each festive ‘Aipono Wine Dinner treats you and like-minded wine-and-food aficionados to an engaging dinner by one of Maui’s celebrity chefs. Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy will guide you through the courses with an introduction to each wine. It’s an evening of excellence from start to finish. Don’t miss any in the series! Visit www.mauimagazine.net or call 808.242.8331 to sign up for the ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series mailing list.
An exquisite wine showcase created by Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants
The next wine event will be
Hosted by:
A California Showcase Chef Kurt Lesmerises developed a passion for French cooking during frequent trips to France, and honed his culinary skills at the Colorado Mountain Culinary Institute. He has worked in such award-winning Maui restaurants as Merriman’s Kapalua and David Paul’s Island Grill, and in 2013 was promoted to chef de cuisine of Molokini Bar & Grille at Makena Beach & Golf Resort. His world-class palette and exacting techniques add a distinctive flavor to the resort’s culinary team. Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants will guide diners in exploring wines from some of California’s finest properties— among them Napa Valley’s Far Niente, Nickel & Nickel and Dolce; as well as EnRoute Russian River. Join us for what’s sure to be a memorable kickoff to our 2015 ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series.
Molokini Bar & Grille at Makena Beach & Golf Resort 5400 Makena Alanui Dr., Wailea, Maui
Saturday, February 7 Dinner 6:30 p.m.
Call for reservations: 875.5888 For the menu, visit MauiMagazine.net/AiponoDinners Price to be determined, but value is always guaranteed! $25 from each dinner goes to Maui Culinary Academy
calendar
WHAT’S HAPPENING WHERE, WHEN AND WITH WHOM
Rose Parade, January 1 • Celebration of Hawai‘i, January 10–February 11 • LAS Fine Art Fair, January 3–4, 17–19, February 7–8, 21
DAILY
Native Plant Guided Tour Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Brochures for self-guided walking tours are included with the price of admission; audio tour wands are available to rent; and docent-led group tours are $10 per person (by appointment only). All tours cover the natural history, conservation and ancient uses of native Hawaiian and Polynesian-introduced plants.
1
Maui High School Band Pasadena Rose Parade One more reason to catch the Rose Parade: Watching the Maui High School band strut their stuff! ABC, NBC and other stations will televise the parade. Check local listings for time.
1
An Evening with Bill Maher Castle Theater, MACC The star of HBO’s Real Time with Bill Maher brings his edgy political humor back to Maui. Adult content and language. 8 p.m.
211
It’s a Wonderful Life ProArts Playhouse Azeka (Makai) Shopping Center 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei ProArts presents the radio-play version of the holiday classic. Fridays & Saturdays, 7:30 p.m.; Sundays, 3 p.m. 463-6550; proartspacific.com
34
Fine Art Fair Banyan Tree Park 648 Wharf St., Lahaina
Browse paintings, ceramics, photography, jewelry and more, under the banyan tree. Sponsored by Lahaina Arts Society. Also held January 17–19, February 7–8 & 21. 9 a.m.–5 p.m. 661-0111; lahainaarts.com
4
Atmosphere Yokouchi Pavilion, MACC This Minneapolis group pushes the boundaries of what indie-rap can mean. The Grouch and Dem Atlas also perform. 6:30 p.m.
4 & 18
FEB. 1
Blue‘Aina Reef Cleanups Lahaina Harbor 675 Wharf Street, Lahaina Join Trilogy Excursions and Surfrider Foundation and help clean up the reef. $25 donation benefits local nonprofit organizations. For info and reservations, contact the Hawai‘i National Marine Sanctuary Foundation, 875-9325, or 879-2818, ext. 239.
Memories & Mementos Viewpoints Gallery Maui artists George Allan, Christina Cowan, Carleton Kinkade and J.B. Rea present works on canvas and in clay, metal and stone that express their relationships to time and place.
812 10
Hyundai Tournament of Champions (See Arts & Leisure page 95.)
ONGOING
School Garden Workday Kīhei Elementary School 250 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei
106
Jan 9, Feb 13 Jan 16, Feb 20 Second Friday Lahaina Third Friday Makawao
www.mauimagazine.net
10
FEB 11
Celebration of Hawai‘i Viewpoints Gallery This annual invitational transforms the gallery into a comprehensive display of art relating to Hawai‘i. An opening celebration features hula by Hālau Wehiwehi O Leilehua on Jan. 10 at 4:30 p.m. Timothy Bailey lectures on the ‘aha moku system on Jan. 24 at 5 p.m. Hawaiian Tea Time features teas, sweets, live music and hula on Feb. 7 at 3 p.m. The exhibit benefits various Hawaiian organizations.
10
FEB 19
THRU JAN 6
FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES Each week, a different Maui town hosts music, children’s activities, artists’ demos and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m. It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike. Parking and other info: mauifridays.com Jan 2, Feb 6 First Friday Wailuku
Help create a sustainable outdoor classroom for students while you learn organic gardening techniques, plant-health issues and more. Join Grow Some Good the second Saturday of each month, 8:30–11:30 a.m., or the third Thursday, 2–5 p.m. Get a free, five-pound bag of organic fertilizer and kalo (taro) starts for your home garden. 269-6300; growsomegood.org
Jan 23, Feb 27 Fourth Friday Kīhei
Annual Juried Exhibition Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center The Hui’s annual exhibition features current work by local and mainland artists in all media.
13
MAR 22
Schaefer Portrait Challenge (See Arts & Leisure page 97.)
1718
Moloka‘i Metric 100K Kaunakakai, Moloka‘i The weekend kicks off with a 6-mile fun ride and spaghetti feed Saturday, 4 p.m., at Kualapu‘u School. The 100K bike ride begins and ends at Hotel Moloka‘i, starting at sunrise on Sunday. 808-567-6900; molo kaimetric2015.eventbrite.com
18
Ebb & Flow Ensemble McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Members of the Hawai‘i Symphony present a banquet for your ears—from a classic oboe quartet by Benjamin Britten, to a Pulitzer Prize-winning composition by Mario Davidovsky for piano and electronic sounds. Preconcert discussion begins at 4 p.m.; show at 5 p.m.
L–R: COURTESY OF KERRY WASANO; COURTESY OF VIEWPOINTS GALLERY; COURTESY OF LAHAINA ARTS SOCIETY
JANUARY
“Pla
4.64” w Ship Dat
Shanghai Circus, January 19–20
WHERE IT’S AT Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao 572-6560 • huinoeau.com Hours: Monday–Saturday, 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Historic ‘Īao Theater 68 N. Market St., Wailuku 242-6969 • mauionstage.com Maui Arts & Cultural Center (MACC) One Cameron Way, Kahului 242-SHOW (7469) • mauiarts.org Schaefer Gallery Hours: Tuesday–Sunday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Maui Nui Botanical Gardens 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului 249-2798 • mnbg.org Viewpoints Gallery 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao 572-5979 • viewpointsgallerymaui.com Gallery Hours: Daily, 10:30 a.m.–5 p.m. CHANGE HAPPENS. Sometimes after we go to press. Please check before you head out to confirm that the event is happening as listed.
18
Maui Oceanfront Marathon Wailea to Lahaina The course runs along the ocean to Kamehameha Iki Park near Lahaina’s banyan tree. Includes a halfmarathon, 15K, 10K, and 5K races. mauioceanfront marathon.com
19 COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER
Terry Tempest Williams McCoy Studio Theater, MACC The literary salon series The Green Room presents this award-winning writer, conservationist and naturalist. Includes post-event reception with book signing, live music, and pupu. 7 p.m.
1920
Shanghai Circus Castle Theater, MACC A family favorite, this thrilling show adds layers of complexity and daring to acrobatic skills centuries old. Monday, 4 & 7:30 p.m.; Tuesday, 7 p.m.
21
NOT ALL PLAYGROUNDS ARE CREATED EQUAL. Save up to $450 with our multi-round packages!
kaanapaligolfcourses.com 2290 kaanapali pkwy | lahaina, maui | 808.661.3691 FACEBOOK & INSTAGRAM: @kaanapaligolf if
you
believe performance, values, ethics, transparency, unbiased independent advice, and responsible money management matter,
consider as your partner in managing your portfolio and financial strategy.
Ed Dowd, Hayley Wood, CFP®, Financial Planner Barry Hyman, MBA, Hawaii Branch Manager Alice McDermott, CFP®, Senior Planner John Bresnahan, Portfolio Management Team
FEB 1
Royal Lahaina Challenger Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali Top male professional players (ranked No. 50 and above) vie for a $50,000 purse in singles and doubles tennis. 667-5200; tennismaui.net
444 Hana Highway, Suite D, Kahului, Hawaii 96732 808 871 1006 | Toll-free 888 243 8220 fimg-hawaii@fimg.net | www.fimg.net
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan-Feb 2015
107
with one of Expeditions eco-friendly, USCG certified, daily cruises. Snorkel, Hike, Drive, Golf or just Lounge on Lana‘i with Expeditions!
Play the “Manele Golf Course” or the “Koele Golf Course”* on Lana‘i Golf Packages include roundtrip transportation from Lahaina on Expeditions, ground transportation on Lana‘i and golf at either course.
Lahaina Harbor Departs for Lana‘i at
Manele Harbor Departs for Maui at
6:45 am • 9:15 am • 12:45 pm 3:15 pm • 5:45 pm
8:00 am • 10:30 am • 2:00 pm 4:30 pm • 6:45 pm
Clockwise from left: Judy Collins, January 23 • Yo-Yo Ma, January 22 • Carmen de Lavallade, January 29 • Rani Arbo & daisy mayhem, January 23
21 22
& FEB. 21 Ipu Workshop
(See Arts & Leisure page 98.)
Yo-Yo Ma Castle Theater, MACC Winner of 15 Grammy Awards, a Kennedy Center honoree and a UN messenger of peace, this distinguished cellist will share his brand of world music. 7:30 p.m.
Maalaea route temporarily suspended • *Koele Golf Course closed for renovations
23
Rani Arbo & daisy mayhem McCoy Studio Theater, MACC The quartet delivers a melting pot of American folk melody and eclectic originals. 7:30 p.m.
23
Judy Collins Castle Theater, MACC The folk-music legend is known for her imaginative interpretations of traditional and contemporary folk standards, as well as original compositions. 7:30 p.m.
23-25
Maui Fringe Theater Festival Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui OnStage presents this annual collection of performance pieces ranging from high drama to political satire to dance.
24
Buy Back the Beach Old Lahaina Lū‘au 1251 Front St., Lahaina Join Hawaiian Islands Land Trust when this nonprofit conservation organization hosts its 14th annual fundraiser at Maui’s most award-winning lū‘au. Proceeds protect Hawai‘i’s engangered wild places. 5 p.m. 2445263; hilt.org
24
25
Art of Aloha Lahaina Galleries The Shops at Wailea 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea This annual show and meet-and-greet features a dozen artists from Hawai‘i, Hungary, Italy, England, Russia, Brazil, and Canada. 1–4 p.m. 874-8583; lahainagalleries.com
25
Maui POPS! Castle Theater, MACC By popular demand, Maui Pops again presents an
108
www.mauimagazine.net
COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER
Nick Swardson Castle Theater, MACC The standup comic is known for his roles in such films as Grown Ups, Grown Ups 2, and That’s My Boy. 7:30 p.m.
all-Broadway program. This year features the music of Rodgers & Hammerstein with familiar songs from The King and I, South Pacific, Showboat, The Sound of Music, and more. 3 p.m.
29
Carmen de Lavallade: As I Remember It Castle Theater, MACC The legendary dancer and choreographer performs this intimate, autobiographical look at her sixty-fiveyear career amid projections of her younger self and film clips featuring some of her significant collaborators, such as Alvin Ailey, Lester Horton, and Josephine Baker. 7:30 p.m.
2931
Ka Moloka‘i Makahiki Mitchell Pau‘ole Center 90 Ainoa St., Kaunakakai, Moloka‘i This annual makahiki observance includes traditional Hawaiian ceremonies, competitions and a lecture, and culminates with a ho‘olaule‘a (celebration) featuring food, games, and craft vendors,from noon until 4 p.m.
30
Henry Kapono, John Cruz & Brother Noland Castle Theater, MACC Three of Hawai‘i’s most prolific musicians perform their hits and collaborations. 7:30 p.m.
30
Marc Broussard McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Known for his brand of “Bayou soul,” this Louisianaborn singer and songwriter incorporates funk, blues, and R&B into his soulful pop sound. 7:30 p.m.
30 COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER
FEB 22
Next to Normal Steppingstone Playhouse Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center 275 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului MAPA LIVE! presents the powerful Pulitzer Prize-winning rock musical that explores family dynamics and mental illness. Fridays & Saturdays, 7:30 p.m.; Sundays, 2 p.m. 244-8760; mauiacademy.org
31
Run & Walk for the Whales Mā‘alaea Harbor Shops 300 Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea Join Pacific Whale Foundation during this annual event and choose from the 2.5-mile walk; or 5K, 10K, or half-marathon races. mauiwhalefestival.org Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan-Feb 2015
109
calendar ArT=Mixx: Masquerade Yokouchi Pavillion/A&B Ampitheater, MACC This interactive mixer for the over-21 and young-atheart crowd aims to connect people to art in ways that are both fun and stimulating. Music, videos, dancing, and networking are all part of the package. 7–11 p.m.
31
Night at the Cotton Club (See Arts & Leisure page 96.)
FEBRUARY WEEKENDS IN FEBRUARY
Maui Open Studios (See Arts & Leisure page 100.)
2
MAR 1
Jerry Sullivan Lahaina Arts Society, Lahaina Courthouse 648 Wharf St., Lahaina Paintings by this featured artist are displayed in the Society’s Old Jail Gallery.
4
Noh Theater: Samurai Warrior McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Cousins Munemori and Fumiyaki Takeda descend from the famous Takeda clan of the Kanze School, which dates back to the 1300s. They began their training as toddlers, and have become two of Japan’s most popular Noh performers. 7:30 p.m.
6
The Queue Castle Theater, MACC Equal parts dance and theater, this story unfolds in a fictional airport where travelers stumble humorously,
‘AIPONO WINE DINNER A California Showcase Molokini Bar & Grille Makena Beach & Golf Resort 5400 Mākena Alanui Dr., Mākena February 7 Chef de Cuisine Kurt Lesmerises of Molokini Bar & Grille will pair his worldclass cuisine with the iconic wines of California, including Far Niente, Nickel & Nickel, and Dolce. Sponsored by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi in collaboration with Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, ‘Aipono Wine Dinners benefit Maui Culinary Academy. Dinner 6:30 p.m. Reservations: 808-875-5888
Noh Theater: Samurai Warrior, February 4
tragically, and awkwardly into the high stakes of each other’s private lives. 7:30 p.m.
1316 14
11
14
12
1422
eighth blackbird Castle Theater, MACC Combining the finesse of a string quartet, the energy of a rock band, and the audacity of a storefront theater company, this Chicago-based, three-time Grammywinning group will entertain and provoke. 7:30 p.m. Eric Bibb Castle Theater, MACC Described as one of the most imaginative modern musicians working within the blues tradition today, this singer, songwriter, and guitarist will bring his soulful sounds to Maui audiences.
Whale Tales (See Arts & Leisure page 98.)
Valentine’s Day Do something special for and with the one you love. Need ideas? See page 75. Parade of Whales/World Whale Day The parade starts at 9 a.m. and travels along S. Kīhei Road. Festivities continue 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. at Kalama Park in Kīhei (across from Foodland) with live entertainment, children’s carnival, made-on-Maui artisans’ fair, environmental displays and more. 2498811, ext. 1; mauiwhalefestival.org Maui Plein Air Painting Invitational Renowned plein-air painters from Hawai‘i and the mainland spend the week capturing Maui on canvas. Come watch. Schedule at mauipleinairpainting.org.
Dinner Project
FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 6 • 6–9 PM
Join us for an exquisite fourcourse meal with artfully selected wine pairings, presented by one of Maui’s top chefs and served next to the garden classroom on our campus.
OUR CHEFS THIS YEAR: Cameron Lewark spago
Isaac Bancaco
ka‘ana kitchen
Sheldon Simeon migrant
Roger Stettler
four seasons
Tickets are $175 per person and 100% of the price supports an enriching Montessori education for young people 18 months through the eighth grade. 2933 Baldwin Avenue, Makawao | 808.573.0374 | momi.org
110
www.mauimagazine.net
COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER
31
calendar 28
Art Affair Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center The Hui’s signature event features music, dancing, gourmet dinner, and auctions, benefiting visual-arts programs for all ages and artistic abilities.
28
Kyle Abraham’s Pavement Castle Theater, MACC A dance work set in Pittsburgh’s urban black neighborhoods, Pavement presents the emotionally conflicted
Sara Evans, February 19
15 15
chronology of a culture and history plagued by discrimination, genocide, and the constant quest for a “lottery ticket” freedom. 7:30 p.m.
6-22
Annie Get Your Gun Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui OnStage presents Irving Berlin’s comical story of Annie Oakley’s rise from backwoods sharpshooter to star of Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show. Fridays & Saturdays, 7:30 p.m.; Sundays 3 p.m.
Email your event to calendar@mauimaga zine.net, or visit mauimagazine.net/calendar and scroll down to “Submit New Event” to post it online. Listings for MNKO’s March–April print edition must be received by January 15. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.
For the Love of Maui 5K (See Arts & Leisure page 98.)
Harlem Quartet Castle Theater, MACC Praised for its panache by The New York Times, the Quartet has worked closely with jazz legends Chick Corea and Gary Burton to record the albums Hot House and Mozart Goes Dancing, which won a Grammy Award in 2013. 3 p.m.
15
–MAR 25
Hawai‘i Contemporary Show: Insights and Explorations Viewpoints Gallery This invitational highlights new works by seven women who are influencing Maui’s contemporary art scene. Opening reception Feb. 15, 5 p.m.
19
Sara Evans Castle Theater, MACC Winner of numerous country-music awards—including the Academy of Country Music’s Top Female Vocalist for 2006—Evans is known for hits such as “Suds in the Bucket,” “No Place That Far,” and “A Little Bit Stronger.” 7:30 p.m.
I U MA
19
Talk Story: Kekuhi Keli‘ikanaka‘oleohaililani McCoy Studio Theater, MACC The singer and chanter explores the lyricism and thought process within a mele (chant, song, poetry). 7:30 p.m.
20
Generations: Kekuhi Keli‘ikanaka‘oleohaililani & Kaumakaiwa Kanaka‘ole, with Shawn Pimental McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Descendants of the most prolific Hawaiian chanters of the 20th century, this award-winning family duo presents contemporary songs in a multigenerational performance. 7:30 p.m.
The Largest Selection of Oceanfront Vacation Condominiums Lahaina • Ka’anapali • Kahana • Napili • Kapalua
LUXURY AT AFFORDABLE PRICES
COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER
21
Jake Shimabukuro Castle Theater, MACC Renowned for his superfast and complex finger work, this ‘ukulele wizard has redefined the capabilities of this beloved instrument. 7:30 p.m.
22
Great Whale Count Pacific Whale Foundation leads this citizens’ count of humpback whales visible from Maui’s shores. Training and materials are provided, and you’ll learn about whales. mauiwhalefestival.org
22
Keola Beamer Castle Theater, MACC Master slack-key guitarist Keola Beamer in concert with Kumu Hula Moanalani Beamer. 3 p.m.
855-836-0619 855-836-0619
www.chasenrainbows.com westmauicondos.com / infoinfo@chasenrainbows.com @chasenrainbows.com /
MNKO_1.3Ad.indd 1
Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan-Feb 2015
111
5/9/11 5/9/11 8:51 8:51 AM AM
who’s who
L to R: Jeff Kuhn & Gary Greenberg; Lehia Apana; Heather Hayes & Shelley Kekuna; Chris Martell & Dorothy McCoy; Samuel M. ‘Ohukani‘ōhi‘a Gon, III
JESSICA PEARL & PETER LIU
TEDXMAUI • September 28, 2014 • Maui Arts & Cultural Center
L to R: Carol Lin & Julian Wong; Chef Eric Faivre & Roxanne Sarae; Ken & Laurie Clark; Ashley & Saman Lashkari; in the prep kitchen, Chef Greg Harrison (left) mentors students from the Academy.
JOSE MORALES
‘AIPONO WINE DINNER • Morimoto Maui •October 4, 2014 • Benefit for UH Maui Culinary Academy
L to R: Yoshimi Yasue & Ritz-Carlton’s Clifford Nae‘ole; Josiah Middaugh; Rachael & Dave Desantis; men’s winner Ruben Ruzafa (3rd win); women’s winner Flora Duffy
COURTESY OF XTERRA
XTERRA WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP •October 26, 2014 • The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua
L to R: The 2014 Noble Chef committee; Chef Roger Stettler; Chef Tylun Pang, Megan Hardesty, Charles Head; Lynn Stettler & Jamie Shepherd; Ray & Chikako Tsuchiyama
Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at mauimagazine.net/WhosWho.
112
www.mauimagazine.net
JOSE MORALES & MIEKO PHOTOGRAPHY
THE NOBLE CHEF • The Fairmont Kea Lani •November 1, 2014 • Benefit for UH Maui Culinary Academy
LIVE MUSIC AND FOOD TASTINGS THE THIRD WEDNESDAY OF EACH MONTH, 6:30 TO 8PM
presented by
You are invited to shop, sample, and enjoy a special musical performance by local artists. Tasty menu samplings, mini-makeovers, artist demonstrations, entertainment and more—just for you. Free and open to the public.
3750 Wailea Alanui Drive . Visit us online for monthly updates . theshopsatwailea.com . 808.891.6770 .
liddo bitta tita!
Nuttin’ but da Bes’ Plenny people t’ink titas an’ luxury no go togedda. I donno why dey t’ink dat. Jus’ ‘cause we eat Spam by choice, an’ we shop at da swap meet, an’ we wear rubbah slippahs even when we go weddings (sometimes even when we da bride!), dat no mean we no appreciate da finah t’ings in life. Maybe we jus’ get diff ’rent kine ideas of what is luxury. Some guys t’ink luxury gotta cost plenny money, only stuffs you no can afford. Odda guys say, no need be expensive, but gotta be fancy. Plenny peepoh t’ink dat luxury is kinda da opposite of necessahty. But on da oddah hand, treating yo’self good is very nessa-sary; dass how I feel, anyways. To me, luxury is when your head an’ your heart no match. Your head telling you, “No need dat kine stuffs,” same time your heart stay going, “But dass what I want!” Luxury is da kine stuffs you feel like you gotta have, but you know you no gotta. Like da extra gravy, extra rice, extra mac salad on yo’ roast pork plate lunch. Or fillin’ up da tub fo’ one bubboh bath instedda one fas’ kine showah. Was my fav’rit auntie who wen’ teach me about luxury. Small-kid time, I used to spend Friday nights wit’ her an’ Uncle. Dey nevah have no kids, so she used to borrow me from my parents, jus’ fo’ have da kine yout’ful energy around da house. Ev’ry Sattaday morning, she would take me go shopping. Firs’ we would go Ah Fook’s Market fo’ get da groceries, den Toda Drugs fo’ get Uncle’s medicines an’ Auntie’s magazines an’ one chocolate malt fo’ me, den Ben Franklin fo’ get one new dress fo’ my Barbie dolls, which she also wen’ buy fo’ me. My faddah an’ maddah used to scold Auntie an’ tell her not fo’ buy me all kine stuffs, bum-by she going spoil me. But Auntie would always tell dem fo’ mind their own business. “Dass my money an’ I going spend ‘em how I like!” An’ wasn’t jus’ me; Auntie used to treat ev’rybody spesho, even herself. She would only buy Best Foods mayonnaise, not Kraft. Skippy peanut buttah, not Peetah Pan. An’ her Spam an’ green beans was always real Spam, not luncheon meat. One time I wen’ ask her how come she no buy what stay on sale, like ev’rybody else. She wen’ tell me, “If I can afford da luxury of getting what I like, den dass what I going get.”
114
www.mauimagazine.net
ILLUSTRATION BY MATT FOSTER
Da olden days Hawaiians nevah have one word fo’ luxury. Dey had one whole phrase. If you look ‘em up in da Pukui-Elbert Hawaiian Dictionary, you goin’ find “mea e ho‘ohiwahiwa ai ka noho ‘ana.” Da loose translation fo’ dat is “stuff from one precious or spesho way of life.” On Maui, get plenny ways fo’ treat yo’self, no mattah how much money you get or no get. You can soak in aromat’erapy baths at worldclass spas, an’ you can go swim in mountain pools where da smell of white ginger or ripe guava stay hangin’ in da air. You can fill yo’ house wit’ paintings by awesome artists, an’ you can walk outside an’ see tropicoh beauty anywhere you look. No mattah if you live here or you only stay fo’ liddo while, jus’ being on Maui is one luxury. Precious an’ spesho. Get one famous quote from Charlie Chaplin: “The saddest thing I can imagine is to get used to luxury.” But Charlie Chaplin, poor t’ing, nevah live on Maui.
KATHY COLLINS (a.k.a. Tita) is an actress, storyteller
and radio personality. Like Tita, Ms. Collins grew up on Maui. Hear Tita read her column out loud at mauimagazine.net.
Shops at Wailea 808-874-4900
Whalers Village 808-661-6806
Shops at Wailea 808-874-4900
|
Kings’ Shops at Waikoloa 808-886-1645
Whalers Village 808-661-6806