Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine Mar-Apr 2015 by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine

SPECIAL SECTION~ISLAND HOME & GARDEN b

« ECO

ISSUE»

FORBIDDEN LANDSCAPE

Rare life forms survive in the ruins of Maui’s last lava flow

Maui’s GMO Ban After the furor, the facts

Tale of 2 Pizzas

A little slice of heaven in Lahaina

Fashion Elements

Earth, Fire, Water, Air—which are you? MAR-APR ‘15 US/CAN$4.95

Bauhaus Maui

A sculptural high-tech home 2 www.mauimagazine.net www.mauimagazine.net

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special section

MNKO pages 51–82

ISLE

LIVING

2 at home

MĀKENA MODERN A Bauhaus-inspired dwelling makes a bold artistic statement. By Matthew Thayer

ISLE

12 hawaiian soul

PLANTING BY THE MOON Finding the science behind an ancient, indigenous practice ~ By Teya Penniman

ISLE

20 mālama ‘āina

UPCYCLING Here’s a different spin on recycling that turns trash into treasure. By Jennifer Poppy

ISLE

22 becky’s backyard

WHAT DO YOU DO WITH A GREEN PAPAYA? By Becky Speere

ISLE

HOME PAGE Want to refresh your environment? Try browsing here first. Compiled by Conn Brattain

World-class model: Aika Erlandson represents Earth in our fashion story on the four elements, page 46. Photo by Sue Hudelson

features

26 great finds

ISLE

29 energy trends

SOLAR Q&A What should you know before you install? Here’s advice from our panel.

« ECO-ISSUE »

32 adventure

FORBIDDEN LANDSCAPE ‘Āhihi-Kīna‘u’s harsh terrain hides rare and fragile treasures. By Judy Edwards

40 island issues

ROOTING FOR THE WRONG SIDE? Supporters say biotechnology creates jobs and fights world hunger. Detractors say it threatens the health of humans and the planet. Can both be right? By Shannon Wianecki

46 island style

ELEMENTS OF STYLE Fire. Water. Earth. Air. Which element best fits you? Compiled by Conn Brattain

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about our cover Life amid the lava: Anchialine pools allow tiny Hawaiian shrimp and other rare creatures to survive in the harsh terrain of Maui’s last volcanic eruption. See story page 32. Photo by Ron Dahlquist

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departments 18 publisher’s note 20talk story

By Diane Haynes Woodburn

Fresh off the coconut wireless ~ By Lehia Apana, Teya Penniman & Shannon Wianecki

27arts & leisure

Our picks for where to go, what to do Compiled by Lehia Apana

106 calendar of events 112 who’s who 114 liddo bitta tita

What’s happening where, when and with whom

Seen making the scene on Maui

Our local authority gets the last word. By Kathy Collins

THIS ISSUE ONLINE

Web-exclusive content at MauiMagazine.net (available beginning in March)

DIVE IN See a video capturing a humpback’s rescue in Maui waters: MauiMagazine.net/WhaleRescue. DIG DEEPER Read Maui County’s GMO moratorium bill—and tell us what you think—at MauiMagazine. net/GMO. DO TRY THIS AT HOME Chef Michael Lofaro’s recipe for Japanese Hamachi carpaccio. Find it at MauiMagazine.net/recipes. THIS JUST IN! Visit our online calendar for updates around Maui County. MauiMagazine.net/calendar EH, LIKE LISTEN? Tita’s column stay mo’ bettah when she reads ‘em out loud at MauiMagazine.net/ RitesOfSpree-ing. RED CARPET TREATMENT Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo in our online albums and share with friends. LET’S GET SOCIAL ....................................................................

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One of the best pizzas around—find this and more at the new Sale Pepe Pizzeria e Cucina. See story page 84. Photo by Nina Kuna

DINING

84 dining feature

A TALE OF 2 PIZZAS By Becky Speere

91 chef ’s kitchen

‘AHI TARTARE It’s no surprise this chef de cuisine knows his way around raw fish. By Becky Speere

94 maui mixology

PINEAPPLE SPARKLING WINE? This one will sway you. By Becky Speere

95 raise your glass

A LESSON IN BIODYNAMIC WINE By Charles Fredy, Advanced Sommelier

96 dining guide

A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island

On Maui we have a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is indeed the best.” We hope you think so, too.

What have you done for the ‘āina (land) lately?

PUBLISHER Diane Haynes Woodburn SENIOR EDITOR Rita Goldman

Switched Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi to Earth-friendly paper!

MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana

I recently took a bunch of old, outdated electronic equipment to the e-cycling center in Wailuku. And we started recycling paper at home.

DINING EDITOR Becky Speere ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER John Giordani STYLE EDITOR Conn Brattain WEB CONTENT & E-MARKETING COORDINATOR

Adelle Lennox PRODUCTION MANAGER Harry Chang

Friends and I adopted and care for two lo‘i kalo (taro patches) at Olowalu Cultural Reserve.

ASSISTANT DESIGNER Shelby Lynch STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Nina Kuna EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Jose Morales CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Kathy Collins, Judy Edwards, Charles Fredy, Teya Penniman, Jennifer Poppy, Matthew Thayer, Shannon Wianecki CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

I use organic coconut oil as a natural sun protector for my skin. It’s safe for the environment, unlike toxic sunscreens.

Bob Bangerter, Conn Brattain, Ron Dahlquist, Judy Edwards, Jimmy Gramblin, David Harrington, Mieko Horikoshi, Sue Huddleson, Llevellyn Lightsey, Jason Moore, Jordan Murph, Mike Neal, James Petruzzi, Jennifer Poppy, Ryan Siphers, Becky Speere, Forest & Kim Starr CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR Matt Foster CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION

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I choose locally grown produce over imported produce as often as possible. Same with other goods. Sustainability isn’t a fantasy; it’s an imperative.

DIRECTOR OF SALES Laura Lewark ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Michael Haynes, Angela Lammers CONTROLLER & OFFICE MANAGER

Kao Kushner

I photograph whale rescues for NOAA, but had the opportunity to take a lead role in cutting fishing lines off a juvenile humpback in December off the South Maui coast!

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publisher’s note It’s Elemental

A hui hou, Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

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TOP: NINA KUNA

“Mud puppies!” exclaimed my husband, Jamie, as our six-month-old Australian shepherds ran to greet us. We had been in town, but rumors of a storm and darkening skies had convinced us to abandon our plans for dinner and a movie, and head back up the hill to Kula. By the time we reached home, the wind was wailing and rain had begun. “We’ll have to bring them in,” I said. The puppies, Buddy and Paka, joyously clamored into the house, covering us, and everything else, with muddy paw prints. Moments later I was toweling down the grateful beasts (and much of the furnishings), while Jamie stoked the wood stove. Warm and dry, we all hunkered down in our toasty abode, awaiting the oncoming storm. “Torrential” would be an understatement. As night fell, horizontal rain carried by winds of fifty to seventy miles an hour hammered our windows and devastated the landscape. Friends texted of massive fallen trees blocking country roads; we lost electricity, ate by candlelight, and brought out board games for entertainment. “When was the last storm like this you can remember?” I asked my husband. “Not in forty years,” he replied. “It’s romantic,” I smiled. He looked up, his eyes uncharacteristically solemn. “Not for olive trees,” he said. Of all the things I thought I might someday be, a farmer’s wife was not among them, yet over the last four years I’ve watched my husband move from gentleman gardener to “Jamie Olive Seed,” planting and nurturing thousands of olive trees around the island. He has battled weeds, wind, insects, drought, axis deer—even pigs. And he has prevailed. We expect our first harvest and oil pressing this November. Might a storm change all that? With all our technology, we humans are still subject to the elements—to fire, water, earth and air, the elements of life—which, as this farmer’s wife notes with renewed respect, is the theme of our annual environmental issue. In these pages of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, we revere and celebrate the elements that shape our island paradise. From the fury of Pele’s fiery volcano, to the gentle tug and pull of lunar tides, Hawai‘i is a study of beauty and contrasts created and continually carved by the forces of nature. Our cover story on ‘Āhihi-Kīna‘u invites you to explore a hushed and protected landscape that mirrors the beginning of time. Here, amid the gnarled black-and-umber fingers of sharp, inhospitable lava, blue tide pools and anchialine ponds reveal their treasure of rare and fragile sea life. Then, from the ruins of molten lava flows, cast your gaze to the heavens. In “Planting by the Moon,” we introduce you to the age-old attraction between the Earth and her nearest companion, and explain how Hawaiians followed the swelling and waning of that lunar body to reveal when to plant, harvest, fish—or do nothing at all. Doing nothing at all is just what some Mauians want for the Earth. Shannon Wianecki reports on a Maui law that would prohibit any new GMO crop until an independent study first proves no harm. Fire, earth, water and air . . . In “Elements of Style,” our playful look at fashion, we invite you to decide which you are most made of. Eastern culture teaches us that the more we are in balance, the greater our life force, or chi. In Hawaiian culture, harmony with nature is life itself. By morning, the storm had passed. Jamie and I walked our property to assess the damage. It looked like a small war had taken place, and the elements had won. It took Jamie three more days to muster the courage to inspect the mountainside olive orchard just a mile from home, where more than 2,000 trees had been subjected to the formidable winds. To his surprise, the trees survived. The power and miracles of nature shape our island every day. It could all change in a moment, as any farmer’s wife would know. But what won’t change is the beauty that abounds and the awe we carry in our hearts. It’s elemental.

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talk story

Cultural Identity

FRESH OFF THE COCONUT WIRELESS

Through their portraits, handprints and signatures, Jordan Murph is helping native Hawaiians create an indelible legacy.

www.mauimagazine.net

Jordan Murph grew up in Hawai‘i. He’s native Hawaiian. But when he tried to answer the question, he could only visualize features common to the many Polynesian peoples of Oceania. He wondered, “How many other people don’t know what our ancestors looked like?” Hawai‘i Piha was his response: find and photograph kānaka maoli (pure native Hawaiians). His work has a sense of urgency. By some estimates, there are fewer than 4,000 kānaka maoli, and by 2040, there may be none. Murph’s project has been personal as well as professional. “I never knew my grandfather,” he says. “I only know my roots through photographs.” Some of his best times are when he puts down the camera. “I get to hear stories from the old days. Any time you spend with a kupuna [elder] is special.” Each image helps answer his question of identity, but the first photo sessions left him wanting more. He began to ask for a signature and handprint. Now, inked palms make a bold statement next to the portraits. “It’s a way for them to authorize the photograph,” he says, “to leave their mark, saying—‘I’m here.’” With Hawai‘i Piha, Jordan Murph is leaving his own mark and making a statement: “It’s my kuleana [responsibility] to do this.” He hopes to someday create a database, book, website, or other means to share the images so his subjects’ descendants can see their kūpuna, and other native Hawaiians without visual records can get an idea of theirs. For now, his portraits of Hawai‘i Piha are online: JordanMurph.com/hawaii-piha—Teya Penniman

JORDAN MURPH

What Does a Hawaiian Look Like?

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar - Apr 2015

A Day in the Life

talk story

Cutting the Ties That Bind NAME Ed Lyman TITLE Large Whale Entanglement Response Coordinator NO FLUKE From his office at the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary in Kīhei, Ed offers an analogy to explain his work: “It’s like triage, and we’re like whale doctors.” A typical rescue reverses the old whaling practice called “kegging,” which involved harpooning the animal and using lines to attach barrels or kegs to it, slowing the whale and keeping it on the surface for capture. “The difference is that we’re trying to save it,” says Ed, acknowledging the irony. “Instead of harpooning the animal, we grapple the gear entangling it; and instead of the lance used to kill the whales, we have long poles with knifes to free the whales.”

WHALE WATCHERS Ed and his team respond to humpback whale entanglements throughout Hawaiian waters, although he notes that, because of its shallow and calm seas, Maui’s shores are “whale central.” In 2014, there were thirteen confirmed cases of entangled whales; three were cut free. Those numbers explain why Ed considers the “foundation of the effort” to be the oceangoing community, who will report a distressed whale, then stay with it until help arrives. “The whale is this huge needle in that very big haystack called the Pacific Ocean. If those boats don’t stand by, we’ll spend the rest of the day looking for the whale and come out empty-handed.” While every rescue is reason to celebrate, Ed explains that this work is just part of the goal. “We’re not going to save every whale—we’re just scratching the surface. The key point to this is gaining information for prevention.” —Lehia Apana

LIQUID COURAGE Getting within a boat length of a panicked forty-ton animal is no small feat. Add in the challenge of wielding a twenty-foot pole capped with a sharp blade, and you’ve got a rough day at the office. “They don’t always know you’re there to help them, and after a while they can get tired of you being around,” says Ed. “One of the biggest risks is that it takes a swing at you.”

Catch & Release

Spot an entangled whale or other marine animal? Don’t take matters into your own hands. Call the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration hotline at 888-256-9840.

JASON MOORE

Watch Ed and his team in action at MauiMagazine.net/WhaleRescue.

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar 1/21/15 - Apr 2015 23 3:31 PM

In Season

talk story

Hula Tree

Hala pepe trees look like something dreamt up by Dr. Seuss. Among the most charismatic species in the Hawaiian dryland forest, they sprout green pom-poms of leaves atop slender tan trunks. Beginning in late spring, they dangle profusions of yellow pendant flowers, followed by berries that ripen to a deep red. Hula dancers preparing for the upcoming Merrie Monarch festival on Hawai‘i Island are likely seeking out hala pepe branches to adorn their kuahu, or hula altar. The tree is sacred to two Hawaiian deities: Laka, the goddess of hula, and Kapo‘ulakina‘u, the goddess of sorcery. Threatened by feral goats, cattle, alien grasses, fire, and development, hala pepe is rare in the wild; serious hula practitioners cultivate the slow-growing tree in their gardens. It belongs to the agave family, and can tower up to forty feet. Six different species of hala pepe exist—each one endemic to its own Hawaiian island. Maui’s species is named Pleomele auwahiensis after Auwahi, the spectacular dryland forest on leeward Haleakalā. Thanks to conservation efforts, bushy old trees can still be found on the mountainside. For a good peek at one, join the Auwahi Restoration Group (Auwahi.org) on one of their monthly volunteer trips.—Shannon Wianecki

FOREST & KIM STARR

Hala Pepe

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K A PA L UA B AY

kipa mai (welcome) . . .

Share the aloha in a journey through Polynesia. The Feast at Lele brings you a royal tour of the cuisine of Polynesia which shares the spotlight with music and dance from four exotic Pacific islands.

Come visit,

“This is the most fabulous cooking on Maui, which is saying a lot.” —Travel & Leisure “an intimate experience with ‘up to date’ Polynesian cuisine . . . the entertainment is top-notch.”

H awa i ‘ i

Ao t e a r o a

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Arts+Leisure MARCH–APRIL 2015

OUR PICKS FOR WHERE TO GO AND WHAT TO DO » COMPILED BY LEHIA APANA

Ha‘ikū Ho‘olaule‘a & Flower Festival

APRIL 25 On just about any other day of the year, Ha‘ikū is a sleepy, off-the-beaten-path outpost. But today, the North Shore town will welcome around 8,000 visitors for this springtime festival from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. at the Ha‘ikū Community Center. Arrive early for the freshest selection of flowers, and stay for the live entertainment, craft booths, historical displays and more. This is a “green event,” so do good by packing your own water bottle, plates and cutlery, and shopping bag. Need another reason to attend? All proceeds benefit Ha‘ikū Elementary School and local nonprofits. HaikuHoolaulea.org

TOP: MATTHEW FOSTER; BOTTOM: RANDALL SHERMAN

Find more to see and do in our calendar, page106.

The Leprechaun Chase MARCH 17

This 3-mile race lives up to its name—really, there’s a costumed leprechaun leading the pack. Catch him if you can! The run/ walk starts at 5:30 p.m. at Kahului Ale House. Bring the little people; the event is preceded by a kids’ 100-meter dash. MauiRunning.com Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar-Apr 2015

Legends & Ghosts of Hawai‘i MARCH 20 Prepare for chicken-skin moments as Lopaka Kapanui weaves tales of Old Hawai‘i, exploring the question, “Are Hawai‘i’s gods and ghosts a thing of the past?” His answers may haunt you. McCoy Studio Theater, Maui Arts & Cultural Center, 7:30 p.m. MauiArts.org

Sleep with the Sharks MARCH 20

This is one after-party you’ll want to RSVP for. Maui Ocean Center’s Sleep with the Sharks program gives you access to its nocturnal residents through hands-on marine activities, animal feedings, and exploration. The overnighter has traditionally been for small fry. Now, parents can unleash their inner aqua child and drift away to an undersea slumber. For future dates, visit MauiOceanCenter.com.

“Something on a Stick” Day

TOP LEFT & BOTTOM: JOHN GIORDANI; TOP RIGHT: COURTESY OF MAUI OCEAN CENTER

MARCH 28

It’s a fact: food just tastes better on a stick. Don’t believe us? Head to T. Komoda Store and Bakery in Makawao and bite into their stick donut—five rolls of fluffy glazed perfection. Sure, this is a wacky holiday, but that won’t stop us from celebrating this classic Maui treat.

www.mauimagazine.net

Arts+Leisure

Chinese Kite Festival

APRIL 17 & 18

Remember that kite you got as a kid—the one you flew for a couple glorious minutes until it got stuck in a tree or spiraled to its death? Here’s your chance for redemption. This free festival invites highflyers and revelers to view an exhibit of handmade kites in traditional and modern styles, with a chance to craft your own. On Friday, learn about the history of kites in China, and enjoy traditional music and entertainment from 1 to 8 p.m. at Wo Hing Museum in Lahaina. Then test your skills and watch aerial displays of acrobatic sport kites by Hawai‘i Kiteflyers Association from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Saturday at Keka‘a North Beach. LahainaRestoration.org

National Librar y Week TOP: ISTOCK/©CHINAPHOTOGRAPHER; BOTTOM: ISTOCK/©MATTJEACOCK

THROUGH APRIL

Power off your tablets, put down that Kindle, and rethink the possibilities of your local library. To celebrate National Library Week (April 12–18), libraries across Hawai‘i will host free programs throughout April. Last year’s festivities included slack-key music, storytelling, and ‘ukulele-making demonstrations. See LibrariesHawaii.org for this year’s lineup.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar-Apr 2015

Arts+Leisure

Art of Kapa

Maui Paddling Hui

BOTTOM: COURTESY OF HUI NO‘EAU VISUAL ARTS CENTER; TOP: SHELEEN QUISQUIRIN

Have watercraft, will paddle. If this describes you, then check out the final races of Maui Paddling Hui’s 2015 season, happening March 7 and 21, and April 4 and 18 across the island. Competitors battle for saltwater supremacy on their vessel of choice: one- and two-man canoes, surf skis, kayaks or paddleboards. Ready, set, paddle! MauiPaddlingHui.org

APRIL 25 & 26 Considered both an art and a necessity, kapa (barkcloth) was woven into the daily life of ancient Hawaiians: it adorned warriors and hula dancers, was used in ceremonies, and ensconced the bones of the departed in their final resting place. It also retained the mana (life force) of the plant it was made from, and the people who made and wore it. Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center visiting artist Dalani Tanahy of San Diego, whose maternal roots trace back to Maui, presents Understanding Hawaiian Kapa. This hands-on class will share the history of kapa, tools, and techniques. Students will leave with more than new skills—they’ll create a shark-tooth knife and ‘ohe kāpala (carved bamboo stamps) to take home. HuiNoeau.com

www.mauimagazine.net

More Than Meets the Eye ‘Āhihi-Kīna‘u’s harsh landscape hides rare and fragile treasures. Story by Judy Edwards

‘ĀHIHI-KĪNA‘U’S HARSH TERRAIN HIDES RARE & FRAGILE TREASURES. B Y

J U D Y

E D W A R D S

When you first roll past the weathered wooden sign, so reassuringly old school, that announces the beginning of the ‘Āhihi-Kīna‘u Natural Area Reserve in South Maui, you meet an astonishing expanse (1,200 acres above water and 800 below) of rumpled, jagged ‘a‘a lava. From the air, it looks like a giant, patchy brown mitten reaching from Haleakalā volcano westward into the sea, grasping for the island of Kaho‘olawe. The road bumps along for two miles and then dead-ends in the tradewind-battered parking lot at La Pérouse Bay, which is just outside the boundaries of the reserve. You may think: Wait, this looks like Mars; why is this a protected reserve? And then you’ll wonder: Now that I’m here, what can I do? I was once a ranger here. I know it about as well as anyone can, other than the infamous Ranger Joe, who has probably walked more of its jumbled, craggy surface than any restless human alive. I can tell you, because I have counted them, that roughly 700 to 1,000 people a day come to this last wild, windy, remote piece of the Maui coastline. That sounds like a lot, and in a lot of ways it is, but most of those people come between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., and outside of those hours you can find yourself alone with the wind and sea along the raw coastline, with the humpback whales and green sea turtles, and even the occasional Steven Tyler sighting (he’s a resident of the neighborhood and a sometime volunteer). I spent many winter evenings there while a humpback whale duo, mom and calf, tucked up next to the shoreline as close as depth allowed. The deep exhalations of the mother whale would carry to me as I sat at the water’s edge, watching the stars come out. Because boats are not allowed in reserve waters, this mother and calf were able to rest the night through, unmolested by the noise of engines and the danger of props. ‘Āhihi-Kīna‘u is a bit of an oddity. All other state natural area reserves in Hawai‘i are land only, and managed by the state’s Division of Forestry. Ocean reserves are only ocean, and are managed by the Division of Aquatic Resources. The Natural Area Reserves Commission established

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BOB BANGERTER

S T O R Y

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A public parking lot sits at the reserve’s southern boundary, along a jagged and fragile coastline.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar - Apr 2015

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A view from the air shows distinctive Cape Kīna‘u.

Beauty on the lava flow: Maiapilo is a member of the caper family. Its flowers are fragrant only at night.

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‘Āhihi in 1973 as the very first natural area reserve in Hawai‘i, and it remains the only reserve, of a current nineteen, that encompasses both land and sea. This may have been accidentally visionary, as science today is clear that what happens on the land eventually affects the sea, and vice versa, a concept Hawaiians have always maintained. When you enter the reserve, the tiny road hugs shallow and popular Waiala Cove, equally teeming with humans and fish. Pass it and a tall stone wall to find the large gravel public parking lot on your right. Park, then walk to the ocean along a wide and uneven trail that leads left. You will shortly find yourself standing on a black pebble beach. You have reached Kanahena Cove on ‘Āhihi Bay, a beach local surfers long ago christened “Dumps” for the old village dump once found near what is now the parking lot. The shoulder of lava to your left, south, which buffers this bay from most swells and currents, is called Cape Kīna‘u. Most days the sea here lies at your feet like a blue-green lake, but there can be impressive waves whenever storms come from the west. Drop your things, put on your mask and snorkel, and follow the small pocket of black sand into the water. And be amazed. This bay has been legally protected from the taking of any marine animal for over forty years. It is one of the few areas on the Maui coast where coral reefs are not declining, but are in fact increasing. Common and uncommon fishes are found here, as are five of the state’s federally protected species: humpback whales, Hawaiian green sea turtles, hawksbill sea turtles, spinner dolphins, and the exceptionally rare and precious Hawaiian monk seal. Should you pass the Dumps parking lot and then pause in the road halfway along its two-mile traverse through the reserve, you will see the bunched and scrunched lava field extend on both sides of you, both upslope to the cinder cone (Kalua o Lapa) that in the 1500s was the source of the flow, and to the sea, which you will barely be able to detect out on the far margins. You may be shocked to know that tucked into those forbidding upheavals and slabs are wetlands protecting flocks of native Hawaiian stilts, with their

FROM TOP: DAVID HARRINGTON; JUDY EDWARDS; JAMES PETRUZZI

Rangers monitor the region, protecting archeological sites and endangered species. They ask you to be careful, too, and venture only into areas open to the public. Want to see more? Sign up for a service trip that will let you explore safely.

JAMES PETRUZZI

This young male bullethead parrotfish is an animated paintbox of colors.

Like the parrotfish, these bluestripe snappers help explain why ‘Āhihi’s main attraction for visitors is the coral-bedded sea. Waiala Cove and Dumps are open to the public every day from 5:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar - Apr 2015

From top: Among the many rare species found at the reserve are the wiliwili tree (left) and ‘āwikiwiki vine (right), a legume. Harlequin shrimp make a festive-looking pair. Despite its deceptively rugged appearance, this archeological site is fragile.

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TOP RIGHT & BOTTOM: JUDY EDWARDS; MIDDLE: JAMES PETRUZZI; TOP RIGHT: DAVID QUISENBERRY

tuxedo-like plumage and long, pink legs. Those wetlands also shelter migrant birds in their seasons, all of them quietly in hiding on great jewels of brackish water, visible to us only from planes and helicopters. And scattered along the seaward edge of this great lava mitten are anchialine pools, small ponds that rise and fall with the sea but are not directly connected to it, fresh and salt water percolating into them through the rock. The pools are home to endemic Hawaiian shrimp—the rarest in the world—tiny things that vanish into the cracks of the rock when the water level falls. Only Maui and the Big Island cradle these anchialine pools in the arms of their newest lava flows. Protecting these delicate, imperiled ecosystems and the species that inhabit them is a major reason access to parts of ‘Āhihi-Kīna‘u is restricted. Here’s another: Long before ‘Āhihi was a reserve, it was a bombing range used for target practice during World War II. Exploded and unexploded ordnance, bits of planes, shells and casings, all manner of wartime fallout are scattered in the crags and crannies of the windblown lava field, and for that reason large land areas of the reserve have been closed to recreational use, for now. A popular trail used to lead to a feature far out on the coastline, called, informally, “the Fishbowl” (Mokuha). I walked that trail for years, before and during my employment there, and then one day Ranger Joe on his mountain-goat-like perambulations found an unexploded six-inch artillery shell about two feet to one side of the trail, and the US. Military Corps of Engineers came, cleared everyone out of the area, and blew it up. It was the first of many such findings. Restricted access also protects a number of archeological sites. Long before the twentieth century, this area was a network of villages, including the fishing village of Maonakala, the extensive ruins of which are now protected by yellow ropes and caution signs just above the beach at ‘Āhihi Bay. Even from behind the ropes you can spot the bases of homesites, shrines, canoe sheds, so eloquent in their emptiness, and the smooth, waterworn stones of the beach set carefully into the rough and biting ‘a‘a lava to make an easy path for bare feet. David Quisenberry is the reserve’s manager. “DQ” to nearly everyone, he’s a longtime local boy with a surfer’s blond, tousled hair and an easy manner. He and his crew, with the support of enforcement agents from the Division of Conservation and Resources Enforcement, do all they can to safeguard this gem in the Hawaiian crown of protected areas. Removal of nonnative plants,

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The graceful saddleback butterflyfish is one of the rarest in Maui waters.

Ranger Joe found an unexploded artillery shell two feet to one side of the trail, and the U.S. military cleared everyone out of the area and blew it up.

TOP: JAMES PETRUZZI; BOTTOM: FOREST & KIM STARR

Brackish anchialine pools harbor rare and tiny shrimp. The name comes from the Greek, meaning “near the sea.”

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar - Apr 2015

IF YOU GO Prepare for the possibility of intense heat and wind, and keep in mind that ocean conditions are changeable. This is an undeveloped area and there is no water, limited cell phone coverage, and nothing to buy. Bring your own food, hats, and snorkel gear. Sunscreens have been shown to kill corals on contact; best if you bring a cover-up or rashguard to protect your skin. Leave your valuables at home or the hotel. You will not regret bringing a good fish ID book!

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‘Āhihi-Kīna‘u Natural Area Reserve

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TOP: JAMES PETRUZZI (2); DAVID QUISENBERRY

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WANT TO HELP? For information on service trips, contact Reserve Manager David Quisenberry at 808-268-3239 or David.Quisenberry@hawaii.gov.

Above, left to right: Despite its poisonous spines, the green lionfish is often collected for aquariums, but protected in reserve waters. So is this palani (eyestripe surgeonfish), which elsewhere in the world is a food fish.

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monitoring of native plants, and plans to build a fence to block highly destructive feral goats and nonnative deer are all part of the work here. The Division of Aquatic Resources helps monitor the area’s coral reef, and The Nature Conservancy is doing reef quality surveys. Without community support, it still wouldn’t be enough. “Without volunteers, the reserve’s staff can’t adequately protect ‘Āhihi-Kīna‘u,” says Quisenberry, “nor, with current funding, can staff be present fourteen hours a day, 365 days per year to handle the 250,000 people who annually visit the area. We would like to engage the community to help care for the reserve.” Train as an official volunteer and you might find yourself educating the public about ocean access, safety, and the region’s history and culture. Service trips organized through Quisenberry generally focus on native plant restoration and nonnative plant removal for offenders like the horrid pickleweed, which grows like a bad-tempered water hedge, taking over entire ponds and trapping young birds in its tangles. Some dedicated community members plant indigenous flora with the Native Hawaiian Plant Society or remove marine debris along the rocky, windswept shores with the Surfrider Foundation. And it’s not just conservation groups that donate their time at ‘Āhihi-Kīna‘u. So do corporate employees of firms like Boeing. ‘Āhihi-Kīna‘u, one of the last wild places and one of the first protected, holds its secrets close and waits, as it always has, for what the future brings, or takes. Some evening in winter, during whale season, walk out to the water’s edge at Dumps in the fading gold light. The lava field will deepen to a chocolaty brown and the stars will gradually arrive overhead. All over the reserve, the birds will be relaxing into their nooks in the wetlands, the tiny, tiny shrimp will be settling down in the anchialine pools, the dusty orange blossoms of the ‘ilima will be closing, and the stones of the archeological sites will begin to cool. Let your eyes rest on the sea, on the wide bay before you, and listen for that mother whale and her calf; listen for the wind that has scoured the summit of Kaho‘olawe. Listen to the sound of something older, larger than you, wilder than you. Listen to all of time, thrumming here.

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TOP: JAMES PETRUZZI; BOTTOM: BOB BANGERTER

This underwater rose is actually the egg cluster of a redmargin Spanish dancer, a nudibranch (sea slug).

Life endures in this barren landscape, in anchialine ponds and tide pools. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar - Apr 2015

« ISLAND ISSUES »

ROOTING FOR Supporters say biotechnology creates jobs and fights world hunger. Detractors say it threatens the health of humans and the planet. Can both be right? STORY BY

ILLUSTRATIONS BY

Shannon Wianecki Matt Foster

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the

WRONG SIDE? Last November, by the slender margin of 1,077 votes, Maui County residents passed a moratorium on genetically modified crops. The bill was historic for two reasons: it was the first citizens’ initiative ever to make it onto the Maui County ballot. And it spurred the most expensive campaign in state history. Global biotech companies spent nearly $8 million fighting this measure, outspending local activists by more than eightyseven to one. Still, the moratorium passed. The debate leading up to voting day was contentious, riddled with misinformation on both sides. In its wake, many islanders wonder where the truth lies and where we go from here. The new law is currently tied up in litigation. If it survives, it will require anyone seeking to grow genetically modified organisms (GMOs) in Maui County to first pay for an environmental and public health impact study. Conducted by an independent party, this study will investigate whether pollen drift from GMO fields contaminates neighboring plants; how pesticides used on GMOs affect the soil, air, groundwater, and marine resources; and whether any connection

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar - Apr 2015

« ISLAND ISSUES » exists between GMO crops and birth defects. If the study concludes ing season. Almost overnight, the Islands became the “corn belt of the that cultivation of GMOs poses no environmental or health hazards, Pacific.” In addition to seed corn, the biotech firms now grow transgenic they’ll be allowed. soybeans, sunflowers, cotton, and wheat here. Hawai‘i’s seed-crop But let’s back up. What exactly are GMOs? I ask Dr. Sally Irwin, industry (both GMO and conventional) grew by a staggering 548 pera geneticist who teaches at the University of Hawai‘i–Maui College. cent over the last decade. By 2012, it was worth $243 million—triple The amiable, energetic professor grew up in Michigan, surrounded the value of sugarcane, the state’s next-largest agricultural commodity. by farmland, and dreamt of someday fighting hunger in Africa. When Today, the majority of corn planted in the U.S., Argentina, and Brazil she discovered genetics, she says, she fell in love. Since the dawn originates on Monsanto’s 3,500 acres on Maui and Moloka‘i. of agriculture, humans have meddled with genetics: crossbreeding David Stoltzfus invited me to tour Monsanto’s north Kīhei site. plants or animals to obtain offspring with specific desirable traits. One of the only farms where GMOs grow on Maui, it will be subject But in the 1970s and ’80s, scientists discovered they could skip to the new moratorium. Row after tidy row of corn grows under the imprecise, time-consuming mating rituals. Instead, they the hot December sun. In the far corner, farmworkers handcould isolate genes from one organism and insert them fertilize silky tassels with pollen captured from nearby directly into another organism’s DNA using either a plants. Stoltzfus, the site lead, is as lean and tall as “gene gun,” common bacterium, or virus. This new the corn stalks he monitors. He speaks with a slight science is called biotechnology; its results are genetiMidwestern accent and the slow, careful cadence of cally modified organisms, or GMOs. someone accustomed to talking on record. “Other Like many biotech pioneers, Irwin believes that than the manual pollinations, this is similar to any GMOs offer solutions to agricultural plagues such other corn farm,” he says. as drought, disease, pests, and excessive pesticide Similar, but not the same. Monsanto’s operation use. She remembers brainstorming with colleagues is obviously well financed, with robotic seed sorters, at Scripps Research Institute in 1988 about how air-conditioned offices, a large staff, and a security to reduce the toxic chemicals used in agriculture. guard monitoring the parking lot. The corn grown They started looking for ways to fortify crops here isn’t the sweet corn on the cob we eat at with naturally occurring pesticides. backyard barbecues; it’s seed corn, the basis Here’s where the story gets complicated. for animal feed, ethanol, and food additives The world’s biggest chemical companies such as corn syrup. And, of course, it’s also saw the value in biotechnology. In the genetically modified. mid-’90s, Monsanto and other agrichemiAs the farmworkers move between corn cal corporations released corn, canola, and rows, they slide paper bags laden with cotton plants engineered to express a gene pollen off of one tassel and onto another. from the common soil bacterium Bacillus Stoltzfus explains the farm’s three functions: thuringiensis, which kills Lepidoptera larvae. backcrossing plants (ensuring that the resultTheoretically, these crops wouldn’t need ing seeds are truly Roundup Ready), creating much spraying at all. Monsanto additionally hybrids with new traits (crossing a Roundup released RoundUp Ready corn and soybeans— Ready plant with a plant that tolerates cold or crops engineered to survive direct applications drought), and increasing seed crops for sale. David Stoltzfus, Monsanto site lead of glyphosate, the active ingredient in their bestsellGenetic drift is a concern articulated in the ing pesticide, RoundUp. The idea was that RoundUp moratorium. I ask Stoltzfus, “Is it possible for pollen would replace more-toxic alternatives. to escape these fields and find its way onto corn growing (After two decades and 173 million acres of GMO crops on Ōma‘opio Road, a few miles away?” He shakes his head. planted in the U.S., it’s still unclear whether they have delivered on Corn pollen only lives a few hours, he explains. Heavier than dust, the promise to reduce farmers’ use of toxins. Conflicting studies most pollen grains fall at the base of the parent plant. The chances show both reductions and increases in pesticide application nation- of cross-pollination with plants beyond a quarter of a mile away are wide. Additionally, farmers’ overreliance on RoundUp has created “astronomically small.” glyphosate-resistant “superweeds,” which require the use of stronger That hasn’t proven true with papayas on the Big Island. In the chemicals.) nineties, ringspot virus was decimating Hawai‘i’s papaya orchards. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) determined the various Dennis Gonsalves, a Hawai‘i-born, Cornell-trained plant pathologist, GMOs “substantially equivalent” to their unmodified counterparts developed a way to inoculate fruits—by inserting the virus’s gene into and approved them for sale. Ethical issues sprouted up immediately. the papaya’s DNA before it could be infected. It worked; Gonsalves’s For example, if GMOs are substantially equivalent, why are their GMO fruits effectively halted the ringspot virus epidemic. Today the creators granted patents for them? Critics pointed to the chemical- majority of the Big Island’s papayas are Rainbows—the GMO variturned-seed-companies’ track records: decades-long histories of ety. But their pollen doesn’t stay put. Fruits from supposedly organic polluting communities with products they once claimed were safe. papaya trees test positive for the GMO trait, which jeopardizes Why trust them with our primary crops? organic farmers’ certification. While debates over this new technology commenced around the Gonsalves, Irwin, and Stoltzfus believe that biotechnology can be globe, the six biggest biotech companies—Monsanto, Dow AgroScience, a boon for farmers, helping them produce more with less. “Genetic Syngenta, DuPont Pioneer, BASF, and Bayer CropScience—established engineering isn’t the silver bullet; it’s just one tool,” says Stoltzfus. farms in Hawai‘i, where they could capitalize on the year-round grow- “Pesticides are another tool, as are organics. There are many solu-

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COURTESY OF MONSANTO

“The vote told farmers: We don’t want agriculture in Hawai‘i.”

tions and we need all of them. The goal is the same: sustainable agriculture. “Farmers are probably the foremost environmentalists out there,” he says. “They won’t poison their ground for a short-term gain. They’re looking to preserve that farm for the long term, to pass on to their kids and grandkids. The land is our lifeblood and we want to make sure that it’s productive.” If all of this is true, why did so many people rise against GMOs? Alika Atay is a sweet-potato farmer and outrigger-canoe coach whose roots run generations deep on Maui. He’s a member of the SHAKA Movement (the nonprofit’s acronym stands for Sustainable Hawaiian Agriculture for the Keiki [children] and the ‘Āina [land]), and one of five cosigners of the GMO moratorium. In the days leading up to last November’s election, the native Hawaiian’s flowing white hair and beard became a familiar sight on the news. When I ask him what motivated him to join SHAKA, he evokes the state motto: Ua mau ke ea o ka ‘āina i ka pono. “The life of the land is perpetuated in righteousness.” “We need to look at what we are doing to our ‘āina,” says Atay. “We live on an island with finite resources. Forty years ago, Maui ag companies sprayed heavy chemicals onto pineapple. They leached into the soil, down into our water table. Forty years later, the well at Hāmākuapoko is still tainted. “Now when I see excessive spraying, I wonder: When will it seep into our fresh water? When the big rains come and wash through the Kīhei fields, where does the runoff go? To our ocean where our children surf and play, where we natives go and collect our food. So, is it safe?” According to Atay, the GMO initiative merely asks farmers to prove that their methods are safe and pono (righteous). Maui County’s health officer and a consultant to the World Health Organization, Dr. Lorrin Pang also cosigned the moratorium. Since 2001, he’s advocated for more testing on the potential side effects of GMOs. Biotech industry supporters claim that Americans have consumed a trillion servings of GMOs, proving their safety. Pang asks: How many cigarettes did we smoke before we acknowledged they cause cancer? How many more did we smoke before acknowledging the danger of second-hand smoke? Questions like these helped SHAKA volunteers obtain many more than the 8,500 signatures necessary to put the issue to vote. They held rallies, marched down Ka‘ahumanu Avenue in Kahului, and shared their concerns about GMOs with their neighbors. Testimonies before the County Council were long on passion, but short on facts. People expressed fears that chemicals used by the seed companies have increased local instances of birth defects, cancer, and autism, without producing the data to substantiate these claims. Meanwhile, the pro-GMO contingent flooded local mailboxes, television and radio stations with slick ads designed to look as though opposition came from small, family farmers whose livelihoods hung in the balance—never mentioning the big companies funding them. Commercials broadcast half-truths: that the moratorium is a ban on farming (it isn’t; it only affects GMO crops) and that genetic engineering is no different than conventional breeding (not exactly true). The debate got ugly. People resorted to attacking one other’s character, and a few agitators sprayed anti-GMO graffiti on public buildings. Atay believes that local support swung over to SHAKA after news reports revealed how much Monsanto and Dow AgroScience spent fighting the measure. On election night, Atay says, “I looked around and saw young Hawaiians participating in the process and experiencing a small victory. That gave me hope for the future.”

For a complete transcript of the GMO moratorium passed by Maui County voters, and to comment on this article, visit MauiMagazine.net/GMO.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar - Apr 2015

« ISLAND ISSUES »

Others weren’t so pleased. the most articulate, but they have valid concerns. “The vote told farmers: We don’t want agriculture Meanwhile, Monsanto asserts a commitment to here,” says Stoltzfus. “It will have a devastating effect transparency. “We don’t have anything to hide,” on our employees, vendors, and agriculture in gensay Stoltzfus. “We grow corn here. We wish people eral in Hawai‘i.” would take advantage of the opportunity to learn This may be true on Moloka‘i. Monsanto is the more about what we do.” island’s biggest employer. If the bill moves forward, Back at the university, Irwin urges people to many residents stand to lose their jobs. That’s not the educate themselves. She’s discouraged by what she only cost, either, says Stoltzfus. Big farm operations views as a growing anti-science sentiment, even support little ones in unseen ways. For example, on her own campus. People conflate GMOs the island’s small farmers rely on the NAPA with pesticide use, and the science of genetic Auto Parts store in Kaunakakai for machine engineering with industry. They’re not the parts and equipment. And NAPA relies on same, she says. Biotechnology exists outMonsanto and Dow AgroScience for 30 side of the big companies. In universities percent of its business. If the moratorium and labs worldwide, her colleagues are forces the seed companies off the island, working on exciting projects without NAPA might close up shop, leaving the industry ties: tobacco plants that can island’s small farmers high and dry. grow Ebola vaccines, American chestSeveral local agriculturalists opposed nut trees engineered to resist blight, the GMO moratorium on principle; orchid and drought-tolerant crops that can farmer Darrell Tanaka and coffee grower feed sub-Saharan Africa. Kimo Falconer say cash-strapped farmers The GMO debate invariably touches can’t handle any more onerous regulations. on issues bigger than biotechnology; it’s They see this bill as a referendum on pestian ideological tug-of-war over industrial cides—and one more instance of nonfarmers agriculture, patent rights, and the future of telling them how to do their jobs. food. Some, like Stoltzfus, believe that largeFarmer and SHAKA member I ask Stoltzfus about pesticide use on Monscale farming is necessary to feed an increasingly Alika Atay santo’s Maui fields. He declines to share specifics, hot and hungry world. Others disagree, noting that but says that his field crew uses the same chemicals as industrial agriculture has ushered in factory farming conventional farmers, according to the same rules set by the and processed ingredients so divorced from their origin that U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA). they no longer resemble food. Meanwhile, according to the USDA, Autumn Ness, who lives downwind of the Kīhei farm, disputes this. 40 percent of what U.S. farmers produce ends up in landfills. Merely “When they spray, I can taste it in the back of my mouth,” says the producing more isn’t the answer. mother and environmental educator. “I have photos of their spray Blanket rejection of GMOs might not be, either. Consider this immischedule. What they tell the public and the government they’re doing nent biotech project: the British company Oxitec is awaiting approval to is very different from what they’re really doing. They’re testing chemi- release millions of genetically modified mosquitoes in Florida—insects cals on those fields; they’re not farming.” engineered to pass fatal genes on to their offspring. If successful, this Biotech proponents claim their crops are the most heavily regu- project could quash mosquito-borne diseases worldwide. That’s huge. lated of all—monitored by USDA, the FDA and the Environmental In sub-Saharan Africa, a child dies of malaria every thirty seconds. In Protection Agency (EPA). Hawai‘i, our prized honeycreepers face extinction; as the temperature Isn’t current oversight enough? I ask Atay, who laughs. “The mon- rises with climate change, so does the range of mosquitos infected goose is in charge of the chicken coop!” He cites examples of conflicts with avian malaria and pox. Exterminate these pests and we might of interest, such as President Obama’s appointment of Michael save endangered native birds and ourselves. Taylor as senior advisor to the EPA—he’s the former vice president of But what are the long-term ecological consequences? Transgenic public policy at Monsanto. Atay’s suspicions of corruption aside, gov- mosquitos have been released before, but nothing on the scale ernment regulatory agencies are undeniably overwhelmed. They’ve planned for Florida. Nationally renowned “Science Guy” Bill Nye all suffered steep budget cuts over the years. As a result, they often sternly critiques claims that existing GMOs have proven safe after fall far short of their own mandates. A Civil Beat article published twenty-odd years of trial. Subtle effects might take many generaNovember 17, 2014, revealed that the state’s five pesticide inspec- tions before becoming obvious, he says. How do GMOs impact soil tors struggle under a backlog of cases. In 2013, officials managed microbes and pollinators? How do they affect their ecosystems? This to investigate only seven of seventy-two possible pesticide violations line of questioning parallels the Hawaiian worldview, in which everyon Kaua‘i alone. thing is interrelated. The FDA, which monitors what we consume, isn’t performing “Akua [gods] gifted us with this place. For thousands of years any better. Last November, the Government Accountability Office Hawaiians didn’t just survive here, we thrived,” says Atay. “All I’m reported that in 2012, the FDA tested less than 1 percent of domestic saying is, back up. Pause. Can you achieve what you want without fruits and vegetables for pesticide contamination. Furthermore, the polluting our resources? Prove to me GMOs cause no harm.” agency doesn’t test for several of the most widely used chemicals, Regardless of the fate of Maui County’s GMO moratorium, biotechincluding glyphosate. As Ness says, anti-GMO activists might not be nology is already part of our lives. We owe it to ourselves to study up.

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RODNEY S. YAP

“When I see the spraying, I wonder when it wil seep into our fresh water.Where does the runoff go?”

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ELEMENTS OF STYLE

« ISLAND STYLE »

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Fire. Water. Earth. Air. Ancient civilizations deemed these four elements essential to life, expressing their qualities through us, as well. Which makes us wonder . . . which element fits you best? Not sure? Why not try them all? Sets and Styling Conn Brattain Photography Sue Hudelson Makeup Ry-n Shimabuku Hair Dusty James Bolyard Models Aika Erlandson (Earth/Air) and Thayra Guedes (Fire/Water) of Larson Talent Hawai‘i Retail Guide Page 111

« GIRL ON FIRE Be incandescent in this silk knit Kimberly dress, $625, by and at Maggie Coulombe. Black pavé collar necklace and chain-link bracelet (forged, perhaps, in volcanic fire) are $58 each; black rhinestone barrette ornamenting her shoulder is $34; all by and at Caché. Mexican fire opal and diamonds set in 14k rose gold, price on request, by and at Hildgund. AIR SPIRIT » Any free and breezy sylph would adore Chan Lu’s maxi-tier dress, with its slip and silver-sequin detail, $510 at Imrie. Gold-plated earrings inspired by insect wings, $11 at Mahina. 18k gold-plated Shake pendant with Herkimer diamonds, by Torchlight, $204 at Biasa Rose. Padma & Pickles gold vermeil necklace with bezel-set moonstones, $132 at Cabana. Gold-plated tassel necklace (worn as bracelet), $68, by and at Caché. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar - Apr 2015

EARTH MOTHER Âť Ah, the seductiveness of the well-grounded woman! Brown linen wrap-dress by C. Miya, $150; brass-bead multistrand necklace, $127; brass fringe necklace, $109; all at Indigo Paia. Marie France Van Damme silver lamĂŠ maxi skirt, $550 at 22 Knots. Quartz crystal necklace on brass chain, $250, and Tibetan quartz crystal/brass cuff, $250, both by VEGA; agate ring with 14k gold edge, $90, by Jasmine Honey Designs, all at Pearl Butik. Tangerine quartz crystal/14k gold-plated bracelet by Gypsy Feet Gems Maui, $80, and snake earrings by SOL Jewels Maui, $148, at Nuage Bleu. Horn and bronze Ruka necklace (worn as wrap bracelet), $775 at Cabana. Enameled metal flower hair clip by Geisha Fabulous (worn as brooch), $75 at Tamara Catz.

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« ISLAND STYLE » SPARKLING WATER » Irresistible as a siren’s song is Hayhay Couture’s navy shark-tooth one-piece swimsuit, $220, at Tamara Catz, Maggie Coulombe, and HayhayCouture.com. X-Marks-the-Spot ring is 14k white gold with diamonds, price on request, by and at Hildgund. Wave Collection in 18k white gold with blue sapphires and diamonds: pendant, $3,834 (on 14k white gold, 16” chain, $247); bracelet, $12,525; and earrings, $7,599, handmade by Lambros, at Lambros Gallery.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar - Apr 2015

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s Guide to Home & Garden

LIVING

Mākena Modern Bauhaus on Maui Solar Q&A

What to know before you buy

Upcycling

Turn a throwaway piece into treasure.

Planting by the Moon Harvesting the wisdom of an ancient Hawaiian practice

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 1

« AT HOME »

A Bauhaus -inspired dwelling makes a bold artistic statement on Maui’s southern shore.

MAKena

Curved couches and chairs from Milan, Italy, create an intimate conversation circle within the expansive great room. At left, near the home’s front entrance, a sleek brown couch marks the perimeter of the family room. At right, past the dining table and chairs, a glass wall opens for access to the swimming pool and cabana. Upstairs, a cantilevered bedroom overlooks the great room and the wide, open spaces outdoors.

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y Story b R E Y THA MATTHEW r aphy Photog SIPHERS by RYAN

D E RN O M

Eta Somekh has the wall space to display a museum wing’s worth of paintings in her family’s Mākena home, but cannot bring herself to hang a single picture. “Not yet,” she says in a way that sounds a lot like, “maybe never.” Somekh prefers to let the building serve as mat and frame for the beauty outdoors. Perched on a rocky lava point jutting into the aqua ocean, the home is designed to maximize views, whether of nearby Palauea Beach, the distant West Maui Mountains, or humpback whales frolicking offshore. “Almost every room in the house has a full view of the ocean and Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 3

« AT HOME »

The cantilevered bedroom’s minimalist decor lets lucky inhabitants focus on the view. An outdoor walkway (pictured at lower left) connects the room with the rest of the second floor.

West Maui exposure,” Eta says. “I love it even more at night, when the moon is shining on the water.” With its stark white walls, expansive windows and flat roofline, the 9,000-square-foot, four-bedroom home draws on influences ranging from Bauhaus to the concepts of American architectural icon Richard Meier. Picture a blocky structure that is then heated until it is elastic enough to be stretched and curved, opened and molded into a sculptural form that is both modern and exceedingly functional—a home that intimately reflects its owners’ personalities and lifestyle. Eta’s husband, Sass, earned his Ph.D. in electrical engineering at California Institute of Technology, and was an early pioneer in the semiconductor-equipment industry in Silicon Valley. He holds more than fifty U.S. patents and coinvented the Applied Materials Precision 5000, a groundbreaking semiconductor-manufacturing system that is now part of the permanent collection of the Smithsonian Institution. In 2006, he was inducted into the Silicon Valley Engineering Hall of Fame. Eta enjoyed a career as an artist working in metal, until an automobile accident left her unable to “swing a hammer.” Nowadays she serves on the board of the American Israel Public Affairs Committee, a national organization headquartered in Washington D.C. She also heads the Somekh Family Foundation, which funds education, the arts, and various Jewish causes. The Somekhs have never been ones to embrace the Tudor cookiecutter look. Back when their two sons were in high school, the boys’ friends nicknamed the family’s Northern California digs the “Miami Vice” house because of its flat roof and modern design. “It’s more me,” Eta says. “Sass goes along with it. I was very influenced by the Bauhaus Movement, growing up in Israel.” Her hometown of Tel Aviv was named a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in 2003 in honor of the more than 4,000 city structures

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Geometry at play: Curves and angles define every aspect of the home, from its dogleg swimming pool, to the span above that shades the pool deck and leads to a spiral staircase to the roof. Across the lawn lies the scalloped Mākena coast.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 5

« AT HOME »

built in the 1930s, ’40s and ’50s in the Modern Movement. Rooted in “functionality in design,” the buildings are known for white walls that reflect desert heat, an abundance of glass to take advantage of natural light, and balconies to provide shade as well as access to cooling breezes. As a tour of the Mākena home spirals skyward, ending on the 400-square-foot roof, you get the sense that it would an amazing place to entertain guests. The Jacuzzi planted squarely in the middle of the roof confirms this like an exclamation point. The bubbly crow’s nest features a 360-degree view, and a nearby refrigerator is stocked with refreshments. The Somekhs often have friends stay with them for at least a week, and wanted, Eta says, “a gathering place.” The couple’s original property on Maui was a Mākena condo that proved to be tight quarters when guests were in town. “Even with [just] the boys, it was small,” Eta says. On a walk one day, they saw a for-sale sign on a beachfront road. “We walked down this long driveway and saw another for-sale sign

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Top: Cabinets by Maui Custom Woodworks give the kitchen clear boundaries within the open floor plan, and combine generous hidden storage space with frosted-glass cabinet doors for displaying kitchen treasures. Above, left to right: In the master bath, a tub by WetStyle looks out onto a walkway between the home’s exercise room and lawn. Floating vanity cabinets add to the geometric simplicity of the master bath.

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« AT HOME »

Architect Rick Ryniak took advantage of the site’s orientation to create the home’s two-story sweep of glass. “Although the lot is on the south side of the island, it sits on a small peninsula and faces predominantly north. Most of the day, the sun is indirect, so the living room stays cool.”

Its glass-block corner keeps this upstairs bathroom flooded with light, yet completely private.

on the lot we eventually bought. Further down there was another lot that was twice as large and about the same price. Although it was closer to the beach, this one had more privacy and it was facing Lahaina and the West Maui Mountains.” After a year of working with their first architect ended at a design impasse, the Somekhs elected to give Maui architect Rick Ryniak a shot. While Ryniak had designed homes for an impressive list of clients, including actor Kelsey Grammar, musician Carlos Santana, and pro golfer Jim Furyk, his portfolio featured no Modernism. “My work is mainly contemporary Hawaiian,” says Ryniak, noting that many of the homes he has designed are in gated communities with strict design requirements. “The Somekhs gave me an opportunity. I’m so grateful to them for the chance to explore an area of architecture that I had not done before.” During preliminary discussions, he shared a book on Richard Meier, the architect who designed the Getty Museum in Los Angeles and the Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Art in Spain, as well as many well-known Modernist homes. Ryniak then spent a week visiting the Somekhs in their Los Altos Hills house to get a feel for the couple’s lifestyle. Eta says he sat at the kitchen table eight hours a day, doodling and observing, putting forth concepts for “instant feedback.” “I try to do that with all of my clients,” Ryniak says. “It’s not to see the home they live in now, Right, top to bottom: A central computer controls everything from sound to window shades. Photovoltaic panels and solar water heaters reduce the home’s carbon footprint. An elevator is a boon for tired guests with heavy luggage. The industrial look of a metal spiral staircase adds to the dwelling’s spare and sculptural design.

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but to see how they live, to get to know them as people. We would go out to dinner in the evening and they thought we were done, but I was still observing.” The marathon sessions formed the basis of a friendship that continues to this day. Working alongside analytical, detail-oriented Sass and former metal artist Eta, Ryniak created a home as efficient as it is stylish—from its computer-controlled climate, automatic doors and window shades; to its elevator, centralvacuum system and ultramodern appliances. The physicist and inventor in Sass helped ensure the home would be beyond “smart.” “Sass is this incredible scientist,” Ryniak says. “He knows more about more topics than any man I have ever met. His way of looking at things is scientific. We tried to be as sustainable and as regenerative as we could.” Examples include fans that vent hot air from the tall, narrow spaces between the living room’s 400-square-foot, curved wall of glass and its corresponding shades. Expelling the hot air saves on air conditioning. Atop the roof of the semi-attached, three-car garage are electricity-producing photovoltaic panels and solar water-heating panels. Inside a climate-controlled closet, a bank of computers runs the show. With a few keystrokes of his cell phone or laptop computer, Sass can adjust the humidity in individual rooms, raise or lower lights or shades, close doors and check the water temperature in his pool. While Sass gets a gleam in his eye, describing the electronic brain that controls the home’s environment, Eta is still pondering whether she’ll get around to hanging art. Ryniak says he doesn’t blame her for stalling. “From the moment you walk in, you feel the [home’s] strong relationship with the sky and the mountains . . . You have this giant tapestry of real life in front of you. A piece of art could not do that.”

RESOURCES Hawaii Land Design Bill Mitchell, principal landscape architect 2555 W. Main St., Wailuku 385-2859 Island Plant Company (landscape installation) 572-5094 | IslandPlant.com Lighting & Engineering Integrated, Inc. Halina Gruszka, principal engineer 300 Wai Nani Way, Honolulu 808-922-4645

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Maui Custom Woodworks (kitchen/bath cabinetry) 252 Lalo St., Kahului | 877-0239 MauiCustomWoodworks.com Merrill & Associates, Inc. Kathy Merrill Kelley, ASID, interior designer 720 Iwilei Rd., Honolulu 808-228-6938 | Merrill-Hawaii.com

Outdoor Living

MF Management, LLC Mark Fecarotta, fine home management 190 Kupuna St., Kīhei | 281-1341 recordhunter@hawaii.rr.com Rick Ryniak Architects Rick Ryniak, AIA, architect 50 Pu‘u Anoano St., Kā‘anapali 661-9448 | Ryniak.com T&S Building Consultants Steve Kear, general contractor 2733 Pu‘u Ho‘olai St., Kīhei | 879-5453 WEB EXCLUSIVE To see more images from this Mākena Modern home, visit MauiMagazine.net.

2 61 L A L O S T R E E T . K A H U L U I . M A U I 873-8325 . OUT-DOOR-LIVING.COM

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 11

Hua

Akua

Hoku (New)

Māhealani

Kulu

Lā‘aukūkahi

Lā‘aukūlua

B Y G N PLANTI Finding the science behind an ancient, indigenous practice STORY BY TEYA PENNIMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKE NEAL & FOREST + KIM STARR 12 ISLE

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 HAWAIIAN SOUL 

Lā‘aupau

‘Olekūkahi

‘Olekūlua

‘Olepau

Kāloakūkahi

Kāloakūlua

Kāloapau

MIKE NEAL

TH E MOON

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 13

« HAWAIIAN SOUL »

Kāne

Lono

Mauili

Muku (Full)

Hilo

Hoaka

Kūkahi

Kūlua

On a December eve, I step outside my North Shore home. The late-night moon plays coquette; swaths of passing clouds hide, then reveal her shape as she arcs toward the back of the West Maui Mountains. Her sunlit side swells toward half filled. “Crescent,” “gibbous,” “waning,” and a smattering of other descriptors comprise my vocabulary for changes in the moon’s luminosity, cycles that have played out hundreds of times around my spot on the planet. In old Hawai‘i, my ignorance would earn the scorn of the ‘ōlelo no‘eau (Hawaiian proverb) Kamali‘i ‘ike ‘ole i ka helu pō: “Children who don’t know how to count the nights.” For Hawaiians, such knowledge is more than a memory test. Based on generations of observations linking outcomes to celestial changes, kaulana mahina (the Hawaiian lunar calendar) tells when to plant which crops, identifies good times for harvesting, fishing or mending gear, and establishes kapu or sacred days for honoring the gods. The Hawaiian malama (month) includes thirty phases, grouped into three ten-day periods: ho‘onui (growing bigger), poepoe

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(round or full) and emi (decreasing). I discover that my waxing moon is called ‘olekūkahi. It’s one of seven phases beginning with ‘ole, a word meaning “nothing” or “without” that signals unproductive times for starting new projects, fishing or farming. If I’m planning to put fruit-bearing plants into the ground, I might want to wait ten nights for hua, named for its rounded egg shape, a night sacred to the god Lono, and good for many-seeded plants. Online and print calendars provide easyto-read charts, but it’s not that simple. “You have to pay attention to the seasons,” says Maui-born Kalei Nu‘uhiwa, the “queen” of the Hawaiian moon calendar. For her graduate studies, she plumbed old Hawaiian newspapers to understand how the calendar was woven into the fabric of life. She’s given countless presentations about the practice and makes the calculations for the annual Prince Kūhiō Civic Club calendar. Nu‘uhiwa says, “For me, kaulana mahina has evolved into a tool that the everyday Joe can do just by paying attention to the environment. We become the experts.” Her passion for

the practice and belief in community-based expertise come with a caveat. “Kaulana mahina is a place-based tool,” she says. It requires practitioners to observe the world around them and to be clear about their objectives. She asks, “Are you on the dry side or wet side of the island? Do you want the leaves or the corm of the plant to be big? How much effort do you want to exert?” Calculations, timing and planting practices differ, depending on the answers. It’s not a new concept. Good farmers and gardeners have always tuned in to changes in weather, soil, moisture, presence of critters large and small, and a myriad of other variables that might affect crop yield or floral blooms. Farmers’ almanacs have long promoted planting during the full moon. So why learn thirty different phases, further complicated by permutations based on season, place and objective? “Because it works,” says Kalani Pe‘a, a Hawaiian resource coordinator with Kamehameha Schools who also develops project-based learning curriculum for Waihe‘e School. He cites sources both young and old to support

FOREST & KIM STARR

The moon phases of huna, mōhalu, hua, and lono are the times to plant ipu (gourds, left). ‘Ulu (breadfruit, middle) and other trees should be planted during the lā‘au phases. ‘Uala (sweet potato, right) is best planted from hua through kulu phases, and all the kū phases.

Kūkolu

Kūpau

‘Olekūkahi

‘Olekūlua

‘Olekūkolu

FOREST & KIM STARR

During the mōhalu, akua, hoku, and kū phases, plant kalo (taro, left). Melon (middle) and other vines do well when planted during kulu, lono and kāloakūkahi phases. Plant mai‘a (banana, right) during akua, hoku, māhealani, lā‘au, kāloa, muku, and the kū phases.

the practice. Pe‘a tells his students about watching his grandfather successfully grow kalo (taro) in tires on pāhoehoe rock on the Big Island by following the moon calendar. And then he challenges them to develop and test hypotheses to answer the question: Is the Hawaiian moon calendar planting and fishing guideline true or false? Pe‘a says, “I don’t like to test our kūpuna [elders], but I had to find something developmentally and culturally appropriate for my fifth graders.” His students worked in teams, planting lettuce on both hoku (the third and fullest of the four full-moon phases) and ‘olekūkahi days, controlling for the number of seeds, soil, water, and sunlight. The result? “Our kūpuna were pololei [correct],” Pe‘a says. Lettuce grew immensely in the hoku pots. In some of the ‘ole plantings, no lettuce grew; in others, the plants grew but died sooner and were less vigorous. “Even some of the teachers were surprised,” he says. Nu‘uhiwa and Pe‘a talk about the moon’s gravity pulling water to the surface during certain phases to explain increased productivity. “She and the Earth have a connection,”

says Pe‘a. But some scientists question the link. “Generally, the moon’s tidal effects can only connect to very large scales on the Earth, like whole oceans,” says University of Colorado astrophysicist Ben Brown, whose work intersects with planned projects at Haleakalā’s new telescope. “Small-scale things like local aquifers and the sap in plants can’t be affected by the moon’s gravity.” But it may be they’re not looking in the right place or at a small enough scale. A 2012 paper by P.W. Barlow and J. Fisahn in the Annals of Botany reanalyzed data from different plant studies, some as old as the 1920s, where the exact time and location of the data collections were known. They looked at whether changes observed in plants’ leaf movement, root growth, stem diameter and water content correlated to changes in the combined gravitational force exerted by the moon and sun at a particular time and place. In each case, they found strong correlations. While noting that science has yet to fully explain the mechanism by which these patterns occur, they posit that some regions of plant cells may give up

‘Olepau

Huna

Mōhalu

HOW TO PLANT A BANANA In old Hawai‘i, specific acts, postures and words accompanied the planting of some crops. Before putting bananas into the soil, the planter ate heartily, filling his stomach. He hauled the suckers (shoots) to previously dug holes, feigning great weight under the load. Loud boasting described the massive fruit to come: Ka mai‘a nui e! Ka mai‘a nui e! He ‘umi eka ke hua! ‘A‘ole hiki ke amo! ‘Elua kanaka hiki ke amo! Hiki ‘ino‘ino. The great banana! The great banana! It will yield ten hands! The bunch cannot be carried! It will take two men to carry it With difficulty. From Native Planters in Old Hawaii: Their Life, Lore & Environment, by E.S. Handy, E.G. Handy, and Mary Kawena Pukui, Bishop Museum Press. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 15

« HAWAIIAN SOUL »

Plant ‘ilima and other flowering vegetation during the mōhalu and māhealani phases; Swiss chard (below) and other dark-green plants during the muku phase.

Want to learn more? Start here: Prince Kūhiō Civic Club annual calendar: pkhcc.com/calendar_moon.html Hilo Ia A Pa‘a—Moon Phase Journal: MoonPhaseProject.com Kalei Nu‘uhiwa’s website on the lunar calendar: KaleiNuuhiwa.com/moon-info.html Online calendar: KamehamehaPublishing. org/_assets/publishing/multimedia/apps/ MoonCalendar

FOREST & KIM STARR

or accept water more readily under the influence of lunisolar gravity. “The Moon and its motion around the Earth, in conjunction with the Earth’s motion around the Sun,” they concluded, might be “an integral part of the biological system,” expressed as a biological rhythm. Western science and indigenous practice aren’t mutually exclusive, according to Nu‘uhiwa, who describes kaulana mahina as a traditional science using observation, hypothesis, and trial and error. Other studies are helping corroborate what Hawaiians have known for generations. She says a project in New Zealand is pairing native students with elder practitioners to look for biological explanations for why the system works. A Pacific-wide conference in fall 2015 will explore using placebased calendars to foster sustainable practices. For Pe‘a, it’s more than just study and inquiry. He says, “It’s our life. We must do what our kūpuna have instilled in us.” Can the Hawaiian moon calendar help all of us live more sustainably—wherever we are—while deepening a sense of place? Whether we name the moon in English or Hawaiian, plant by her light to grow prize-winning pumpkins, or doubt such connections exist, it appears we might not be able to escape her influence. Might as well learn to count the nights.

Native Planters in Old Hawaii: Their Life, Lore & Environment, by E.S. Handy, E.G. Handy, and Mary Kawena Pukui, Bishop Museum Press

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Here’s a different spin on recycling that turns trash into treasure. STORY BY JENNIFER POPPY “Lucky we live Hawai‘i.” That well-known saying reverberates throughout the Islands. You hear it echoed off airport-terminal walls, mentioned on hiking trails, and repeated on beaches. We truly are lucky to live here, and with that gift comes the responsibility to mālama ‘āina—to care for the land. One way to do so is to make something beautiful out of what might have otherwise ended up in a landfill. Here are three “upcycling” ideas that just may inspire you. As with any upcycling project, the goal here is to reuse, rather than consume. For items you do not own, check with friends, local thrift shops, Craigslist, Habitat for Humanity’s ReStore, or your local hardware store.

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Driftwood Chalkboard

Easy

Materials cabinet door or wooden board sandpaper (if needed) assorted driftwood clippers hot-glue gun primer and chalkboard paint painter’s tape your choice of paintbrush, roller or sponge brush Chalkboard paint typically comes in 30-ounce cans. The 24”x19” chalkboard shown on this page requires approximately 4 ounces each of primer and paint.

INSTRUCTIONS Prepare your cabinet door by cleaning it thoroughly, sanding it if necessary. Next, use painter’s tape to mark off the area that will be your chalkboard, then apply primer with your paintbrush. After the primer coat dries, add a thin layer of chalkboard paint, applying strokes in one direction. Let it dry according to the paint can’s directions, then add a second coat, applying strokes in the opposite direction. It will take three days for your chalkboard to cure. After it’s cured, rub chalk across the board before using it. Arrange the driftwood pieces around the chalkboard to your liking, then affix them using a hot-glue gun on high heat. It’s a bit of a puzzle to place the driftwood; you may need to use the clippers to shorten the pieces to fit just right.

TOP: JOHN GIORDANI; BOTTOM: JENNIFER POPPY

« MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA »

 MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA 

Chair Planter

Mosaic Steppingstone

Advanced

Materials assorted sea glass seashells craft marbles clear contact paper Quikrete (about ⅛ of a 60-lb. bag)

trowel bucket nonstick cake pan chicken wire wire cutters WD-40

Materials old wooden chair paint (4–8 oz.) paintbrush sandpaper (if needed) old cooking or garden pot assorted plants soil

INSTRUCTIONS Prepare your chair by removing the screws from the seat and detaching it from the frame. Next, clean the chair—sanding the finish, if necessary—then paint it. Once the paint dries, experiment with different items you have on hand until you find the perfect planter that fits in the chair. If you are using a basket or pot, it will need to fit tightly inside the chair frame, or have handles that can rest on the frame. ANOTHER OPTION is to create a basket by stapling chicken wire to the seat frame, then adding coconut husks or garden fabric. Once you have your container in place, pot as you normally would, adding stones for drainage, then soil and, finally, plants.

JENNIFER POPPY; CHAIR: JOHN GIORDANI

INSTRUCTIONS Place the cake pan right side up on a sheet of clear contact paper and trace its outline. Do the same with the chicken wire. Set both aside. Select the sea glass, shells, marbles and any other decorative pieces you want for your steppingstone and arrange them as you like inside the pan. Transfer this mosaic of pieces to the contact paper with the design facing the sticky side. Mix the Quikrete per the bag’s instructions, using a trowel, bucket and water. Spray WD-40 inside the pan, and put the contact sheet in with the design facing down. Carefully add about an inch of Quikrete, then place the chicken wire on top for added support. Fill the rest of the pan with Quikrete. Allow the steppingstone to dry outside. After twentyfour hours, turn the pan over and remove the steppingstone. Peel off the contact paper. Set the stone out in the sun to dry for two more days before use.

Moderate

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 21

Dining » BECKY’S BACKYARD

WHAT DO YOU DO WITH A GREEN PAPAYA? STORY BY BECKY SPEERE Upcycle. That is what you do when you accidentally knock a few green papayas from your tree as you clumsily maneuver your fruit picker toward the blushing, yellow-green fruit. Although the latter fulfills your plans for a sweet, ripe papaya with coconut yogurt, topped with honey-macadamia-nut granola, you have also been blessed with a rocklike green papaya. What to do? Native to Central America, Carica papaya is a sun-loving plant present in many tropical and subtropical countries. Generally grown from seed, it’s found on Maui at elevations from sea level to 2,000 feet and can reach a height of twenty feet, producing hundreds of fruits during its two- to three-year lifespan. Mature fruit are harvestable twelve to fourteen months after planting. Inside are hundreds of viable black seeds. Gently remove them with a spoon prior to eating the sweet flesh—and if you like, purée them in a blender and add to your favorite honeymustard salad dressing for a mild, peppery kick. Added to your favorite marinade, the papain-rich leaves have meat-tenderizing properties. Now back to those green papayas. My favorite ways to use the fruit are in chicken tinola soup and green papaya salad. To prepare the hard fruit, cut half an inch off both ends of the papaya, creating a flat surface. Stand the papaya on its larger end, and peel the hard outer skin, using a paring knife or vegetable peeler. Be careful that the surface beneath the fruit is dry. I like to place a paper towel under the fruit to absorb the latex that seeps out. Cut the fruit in half lengthwise and remove the white, immature seeds and the soft membranes attached to them. If you’re making the soup, cut the fruit into two-inch chunks. If you’re making green papaya salad, use a food processor with a grater attachment, or shred on the large holes of a hand grater. Now you are ready to cook!

This recipe came from a great Big Island cook—the late Napoleon “Chopper” Ebanez, who worked as a manager and special police officer for the County of Hawai‘i’s Parks & Recreation.

Yield 6–8 serving | Prep Time 90 minutes Ingredients 2 lb. chicken thighs 2” piece of ginger, peeled and smashed 4 cloves of garlic, smashed 2 Tbsp. cooking oil 2 Tbsp. fish sauce ½ tsp. salt, to taste 2 whole stalks lemongrass, bruised on the root side with the flat of a knife 1 tsp. whole peppercorns 1 bay leaf 4–5 c. green papaya, cut into 2” chunks 1–2 c. marungay* or pepper leaves, stripped from the hard stems

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*Marungay is a high-protein legume; find its leaves at Paradise Market, 207 E. Wakea St., Kahului— but call ahead, as it sells out quickly. 877-6767

Method Heat the oil in a 6-quart pot over medium heat; add garlic and ginger. Cook till fragrant, about 1 minute. Add fish sauce and chicken thighs, raise heat to medium high and cook 5 minutes. Add enough water to cover chicken by 1½ inches. Add bay leaf, peppercorns and lemongrass. Bring slowly to a boil and simmer 45 minutes. Add green papaya and marungay leaves; simmer 20 minutes or until papaya is tender—don’t overcook till mushy. Adjust seasoning. Enjoy ladled over white rice with a side of achara (green papaya salad); see recipe on page ISLE 24.

ISTOCK/ MICHAEL HIEBER; BECKY SPEERE

CHICKEN TINOLA

Top: Prepare green papaya by cutting the fruit in half, removing the seeds and slicing off the hard skin. Cut into chunks for easy grating. Above: Simmer pickling mix ingredients in a nonreactive saucepan. The pickled green papaya recipe below is adapted from the book Memories of Philippine Kitchens by Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan, published by Stewart, Tabori & Chang.

ACHARA Yield Approximately 8 cups, depending on papaya size Prep Time 3 days (includes marinating overnight twice)

Ingredients for the salad: 1½ lb. grated green papaya 2 Tbsp. kosher salt 3 carrots, peeled and grated 3 red or green long chile peppers, cored, seeded and thinly sliced 2 Maui onions, cut in half lengthwise and thinly sliced

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BECKY SPEERE

Ingredients for the pickling mix: 4 c. rice vinegar 1½ c. sugar 1 Tbsp. kosher salt 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2” piece of fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks 1 tsp. fresh ground black pepper, or to taste

Dining » BECKY’S BACKYARD

808 276 2764 waterlilymaui.com

Grate green papaya, carrots, onions and chile peppers, and toss with a ricevinegar pickling mix for a refreshing salad. Ingredients marinate over two nights—and are worth the wait!

BECKY SPEERE

Method In a nonreactive saucepan, combine vinegar, sugar, 1 Tbsp. salt, garlic and ginger. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the black pepper and cool to room temperature; cover and refrigerate overnight. In a large, nonreactive bowl, toss papaya with the remaining salt, carrots, onions and peppers. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Next day, place half the papaya mixture in a cheesecloth-lined strainer and rinse under running water. Squeeze to remove excess moisture. Place into a clean bowl and repeat with the rest of the papaya mixture. Toss in a clean bowl with vinegar mixture, to taste. Refrigerate overnight, and enjoy the next day. Achara keeps for up to 6 months in jars in the refrigerator. I also use it as a relish on sandwiches, or add it to lettuce wraps. The extra vinegar mixture can be used as a base in marinades, salad dressings, or as a lumpia (fried spring roll) dip. Another papaya idea: Bake semi-ripe fruit with 1 Tbsp. salted butter, 2 Tbsp. lemon juice, and 1 Tbsp. Maui honey 20 minutes in a 350degree oven. Carefully place on a heatproof plate, and fill the hot fruit with a big scoop of Roselani vanilla ice cream. Serve immediately.

Best of Maui 2014: Best Home Furnishings Voted by the readers of MauiTime Weekly

210 Alamaha Street, Kahului • 808.873.6910 • mauihue.com Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 25

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Home Page Want to refresh your environment? Try browsing here first. COMPILED BY CONN BRATTAIN

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Natural Light Green Oaks’ wall pendant lamp is woven core rattan and natural rope, and comes with a metal wall mount by Palecek. Lamp is 9”w x 9.5”h, with 148” rope. $544 at HUE, 210 Alamaha St., Kahului, 873-6910, MauiHue.com

Bedside Manner This Ming Collection bedside table is solid mahogany, hand-carved in Indonesia with a design exclusive to Lifestyle Maui. Set includes platform bed, dresser, mirror, chest and media chest, all sold separately. Table is 21”w x 18”d x 27”h, $549 at Lifestyle Maui, 703 L. Main St., Wailuku, 242-1863, LifestyleMaui.com

Pyro-technique Hawai‘i craftsman Michael Patrick Smith used the wood-burning method of pyrography to create the bamboo-leaf design in this lathe-turned Cook pine vessel. 7”h x 12¾”w, $1,990 at Martin & MacArthur in The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8844; and Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-7422; MartinAndMacArthur.com

The Savings Speak Volumes Maui Friends of the Library offers new and gently recycled books for as little as $1. Turn to the Friends for reading material— you’ll extend the shelf life of books, and help support our libraries. In Pu‘unēnē, Lahaina’s Wharf Cinema Center, and Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center in Kahului. mfol.org

P R E S E N T S

Kai Honu Collection

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1: PALECEK; 2, 4, 6, & 7: CONN BRATTAIN; 3: MARTIN & MACARTHUR; 5: CANE-LINE

Hooked on Comfort? Rest assured that Cane-Line’s Divine footstool will square beautifully with your relaxation needs, indoors or out. The hand-crocheted cover is weather-resistant polypropylene. Approx. 21½” square x 13¾” tall. (Green shown is special order.) $750 at Outdoor Living, 261 Lalo St., Kahului, 873-8325, Out-Door-Living.com

Yours for the Picking Galeria’s pineapple mosaic can be customized to any size, starting at 16” square. (Shown: 16” x 32”) Image and background are marble and travertine; border is 1” Tessera tiles by Oceanside. Price on request at Maui Marble & Granite, 874 Alua St., Wailuku, 242-8400, MauiMarbleAndGranite.com

A Leaf for Your Table We couldn’t help falling for these light, decorative aluminum trays in gold (shown) or silver finish. Set of 2 (21”x14” and 17”x11”), $85 at HomeWorld, 374 Hanakai St., Kahului, 877-5503, HomeWorld.com Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 27

Spa Montage Kapalua Bay Harnessing the essence of Hawaii, from mauka (mountain) to makai (sea), find relaxation with every salon and spa service. Receive facility access to our bamboo rainfall showers, therapeutic waterfall whirlpool, eucalyptus steam room, cedar wood sauna and co-ed newly equipped workout facility, outdoor ocean-view infinity pool and chaise. Daily Facility Pass available for purchase (present this ad and receive $30 off). O n e Bay D r i v e , L a h a i n a

(808) 665-8282 spamontage.com K A PA L U A B AY B E V E R LY H I L L S D E E R VA L L E Y L AG U N A B E AC H PA L M E T T O B L U F F

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Douglas Chun

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« ENERGY TRENDS »

A Solar Q&A

COURTESY OF 3D BUILDERS

Solar water heating, photovoltaics, tax credits, net metering . . . what should you know to make an informed decision for your home? We asked two respected Maui companies, Rising Sun Solar and 3D Builders, for answers to some commonly asked questions.

What’s the difference between solar thermal and photovoltaic (PV)? RSS Photovoltaic panels capture the sun’s energy and transform it into electricity. Unlike windmills, PV panels produce that power silently, with no moving parts. On Maui, depending on the type used, each PV panel can create an average 1 to 1.5 kilowatthours per day. Solar thermal (also known as solar hotwater panels) uses energy from the sun to heat water, saving you money by reducing the amount of electricity or gas you use. New systems now allow PV panels to directly heat the hot-water tank, as well. Is solar right for me? RSS If you are a homeowner who consumes electricity in Hawai‘i, solar is a good option

for your energy needs. A solar electric system provides monthly savings on your electric bill by replacing some or all utility-purchased kilowatt-hours with solar-generated electricity. Savings depend on the size of the installed system, location, and price of electricity, and are realized over the life of the equipment. Savings are greater as utility costs rise, so by using a solar electric system, you are hedging against electricity rate increases.

Will I still get a utility bill? RSS While we offset as much of your utility bill as we can, if you install an interconnected, net-metered PV system, it is impossible to completely eliminate your bill. Customers whose energy use remains stable can expect to pay a minimum of $18. The only way to eliminate your utility bill is to remove your home from the grid. If I get a PV system, will I have power during a blackout? 3D To protect utility workers responding to a power outage, PV systems must stop sending energy to the grid; most systems will shut

Hawai‘i’s subtropical latitude and abundant sunshine make solar power an obvious energy choice, but factors like proximity to the ocean create specific challenges. That’s why it’s important to hire seasoned professionals.

down to accomplish this. Some new inverters on the market let you add an isolated circuit for a limited amount of energy during daylight; this typically involves plugging an electric load into a special receptacle wired to the inverter. A more convenient way to have power while the grid is down is to install a battery backup system that isolates your critical loads from the grid. Versatile versions of this backup system allow some battery charging by the PV system while the grid is down. In either case, be sure to work with your contractor to determine which electric loads you want to have operational if the grid goes down. What is net metering? RSS A solar system changes your relationship with the utility company. If you’re a net-metered customer, and your system produces more energy than you are using, your meter will spin backwards, crediting your account at the full retail rate. When your energy needs exceed your system’s output, your meter spins forward. Your electric meter measures the “net” difference, and your utility company bills you for this amount. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 29

« ENERGY TRENDS »

It’s extremely important to consider the orientation and position of your roof when installing solar and PV panels. The two situations above called for creative planning to avoid shadows cast by surrounding rooflines. Top right shows a well-designed installation with PV flanking the solar hot water. At right, examples of different roof types: cedar shakes ready for PV racking, and a flat roof with tilt kits installed. Each roof type has its own waterproofing needs.

I live on the mainland. If I put PV on my Maui home, will I benefit from the State tax credit? 3D The Hawai‘i State Tax Office has a PV specialist, who is your best contact for the most current tax information. The direct number is 808-587-1577. What are my options for purchasing a PV system? RSS: Homeowners generally have three options; your choice depends on your overall objectives. For customers who want to take advantage of current tax incentives, self-purchase is the way to go. At Rising Sun, we offer

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a variety of prepaid, little- and no-moneydown financial solutions for customers who are focused on hassle-free savings. What are the different benefits of financed versus self-purchased PV? RSS: Self-purchased PV allows the owner to benefit from federal and state tax incentives, as well as accelerated depreciation; the average system will pay for itself within three years. On the other hand, financed or thirdparty-owned PV gives you immediate energy savings with none of the hassles of ownership and maintenance. I want to purchase an electric vehicle (EV). How hard is it to set up a charging station at my home? 3D: Some EV models can charge using a standard household outlet, but it can take an inconveniently long time. To properly add a dedicated charging circuit, you need a County of Maui permit. A licensed electrician can obtain one and install the circuit for you. Maui Electric Company offers special rates for EV charging; for information and an online application, visit MauiElectric.com and follow the Clean Energy and Electric Vehicles links. If you wish to use a photovoltaic system to offset the energy used to charge the car, you will need to have your PV contractor submit an application to Maui Electric to connect the system to the grid.

We just reroofed our guest house and have beautiful, open-beam ceilings. I’m concerned about having penetrations made into the roof if we install solar. 3D It’s important to choose an installer who is experienced in making roof penetrations to protect your investment. You may want to have your roofing contractor work with your PV installer to ensure that the roof warranty will not be voided. What should I look for in choosing a PV installer? RSS: Don’t focus just on price. You’re making a long-term investment that will increase the value of your home. Make sure you are offered the best products, workmanship and customer service available. If you need financing, be sure you understand what’s being offered, the commitment and risks. Rising Sun Solar is a Maui-based company focused on design, installation and financing of photovoltaic systems. SunPower’s 2013 Commercial National Dealer of the Year, Rising Sun consistently ranks among Pacific Business News’ top ten PV installers. 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū; 575-2202, RisingSunSolar.com A full-service building company since 1994, 3D Builders was named the state’s “First Solar-Wise Builder” by Hawaiian Electric in 2001. 3D’s Hawaiian Solar Juice division works with one of the oldest and most trusted U.S. solar-module manufacturers. 353 Hanamau St., Kahului; 871-5575; 3dBuilders.com

COURTESY OF 3D BUILDERS

Is it true that the electric company plans to change the net-metering program? 3D Hawaiian Electric Industries, Maui Electric’s parent company, has sent a plan to the Public Utilities Commission and requested a decision by March 20. If the commission approves the plan, PV systems installed or expanded after the approval date would receive lower credit rates for kilowatt-hours exported to the grid. Existing net-metered PV systems, and those whose applications are in HEI’s queue by the approval date, would keep the current program’s rates and rules. It’s a reason to consider installing solar sooner rather than later. You can contact Maui Electric about the proposed changes at Connect@MauiElectric.com.

UNCOMPROMISING SINCE 1985

Potato scaled mahi-mahi, on a bed of grilled asparagus, potato puree, a cabernet beurre rouge, sprinkled with white truffle oil.

Founder/CEO Aaron Placourakis was raised around great food. And like all Greeks, he was instilled with the belief that “family” isn’t limited to close relatives, but includes all who are gathered around the table. It’s an approach that’s perfected by his team, who greet you at the door as a friend. We invite you to join us. Be a part of the family. Create unforgettable memories in the most spectacular settings on Earth. And rediscover the joy of good living.

Maui’s premier seafood restaurant Happy Hour Nightly Come in and see our new private dining room 808 879-7224 | Wailea

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Spectacular dining on the beach Happy Hour Nightly Now serving breakfast 808 875-7555 | Kihei

A T A L E O F Sale Pepe San Marzano sauce and polpette—tender Italian meatballs—dress up a traditional pizza fresh from the wood-burning oven. PI artisan (opposite) Fish on pizza? One taste of Pi’s ‘ahi tataki with wild arugula, buffalo mozzarella, and balsamic drizzle, and it could become one of your favorites, too.

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Dining

2 p I z z a s When I heard about Sale Pepe and Pi Artisan Pizza opening in Lahaina just a short walk from one another, I wondered, “Are they crazy?” No fewer than six Italian restaurants opened on Maui in 2014, joining such longtime favorites as Ferraro’s, Casanova, Longhi’s and Capische? Well, after a few meals at each location, I realized you can’t have too many good Italian restaurants on Maui. STORY BY BECKY SPEERE | PHOTOGRAPHY BY NINA KUNA Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar - Apr 2015

Dining

Left: Michele Bari, chef/owner and pizzaiolo extraordinaire, adds the finishing touches to a mushroom, spicy Italian sausage, and gorgonzola pizza that will bake to perfection in the custom Marra Forni brick oven behind him. Below, left to right: Billows of aged prosciutto rest on thin slices of homemade Italian bread. Negroni, Italy’s classic aperitif made with gin, bitter Campari, and sweet vermouth, will transport your taste buds to Florence.

salt, and jade-green extra virgin olive oil; generous ribbons of salty prosciutto draped like delicate pink chiffon; and my favorite, chicken liver pâtè with a hint of smoke, and rich mushroom flavors that blend with pecorino. A thin-crusted pizza, fragrant with yeast dough that’s fermented seventy-two hours, mozzarella, pizza sauce and herbs, arrives at my table. I close my eyes, breathe in deeply, and suddenly I am in a little cafè on the Piazza San Marco. A graduate of the centuries-old Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli (International School of Pizza) in Venezia, Chef Michele has an understanding of the holy trinity of flour, olive oil and tomatoes that is evident in every bite. A light smokiness imparted by the wood fire dances with the pizza sauce on my tongue; prepared with San Marzano tomatoes, the sauce has the perfect balance of tart, sweet and acid. When I ask Qiana how long the sauce may cook for, she replies, “When Michele tastes it, he knows. He cooks by taste, not by time—the true Italian way.” My friends Galen and Flo have eaten at Sale Pepe dozens of times, and although Galen tells himself that he should try something new, continued on page 88

BOTTOM LEFT: BECKY SPEERE

SALE PEPE PIZZERIA E CUCINA opened only last May, but it is built on tradition. Chef/owner Michele Bari and wife Qiana have been singing “O Sole Mio” ever since they moved from her native New York to Lahaina’s food scene. Michele hails from Milan, in the north of Italy, and as quickly as recipes from his madre and nonna started churning out of the tiny kitchen, foodie gossip heated up the coconut wireless, spreading like melted mozzarella. A tiny bar separates the bustling kitchen from the cozy warmth of the dining room, and provides a lofty perch from which to sip an appetite-inducing negroni—a classic citrus-spiked aperitif of gin, herbaceous Campari, and sweet vermouth. The bite of the bitter Campari transports me to a little neighborhood bar off a cobblestoned street in Florence, where I spent a few afternoons whiling away the time between visiting Michelangelo’s David at the Galleria dell’Accademia and hiking to the top of Giotto’s Neo-Gothic Campanile. Chef’s assorted crostini brings me back; the crusty, homemade Italian bread supports three topping selections: sweet, vine-ripened cherry tomatoes tossed with balsamic vinegar from Modena, sea

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TOP RIGHT: COURTESY OF PI ARTISAN

Right: Michelle “Mitch” Respicio, Pi Artisan’s kitchen manager, flashes a shaka and a smile as she prepares dishes for hungry customers. In the foreground, fresh, house-made mozzarella, Lahaina tomatoes and pesto for a Caprese salad; fixings for a “build-your-own-pizza”; and the best crispy garlic bread. Below: Sumptuous, Italian-style sausage enriched with kiawe-wood-smoked bacon rests on a bed of fresh San Marzano tomato marinara. Bottom Right: Porchetta pizza topped with roasted, herb-stuffed Olowalu pork, caramelized Maui onions, and a refreshingly herbaceous salsa verde is a feast for the eyes and the taste buds alike.

Relaxing on the patio at PI ARTISAN PIZZERIA as I wait for my order, I indulge in the time-honored Lahaina activity of peoplewatching. The street scene bustles: young, bikini-clad mothers with kids in tow; tourists posing on the stone wall, taking selfies; Rasta dudes flashing by on high-tech skateboards. The ocean backdrop looks as placid as a lake as a yacht cruises by with masts in full sail, and parasailing visitors float in the sky. Behind me, street-style artwork by Lahaina-born tattoo artist Desmond Kaleolani Alexander paints an equally lively scene as it boldly announces Pi Artisan Pizzeria—“modern cucina e pizzeria!” David Hanley is president and CEO of HI Food Group, a company that designs and develops restaurants. When I ask Hanley about the concept behind Pi Artisan Pizzeria, he says, “As opposed to building a menu, then sourcing products, Pi’s menu was designed around the product on Maui, working directly with the farmer.” Add fresh, house-made, milky-rich mozzarella for topping pizza and salads, and you get the flavors of Maui and Italy, combined. Okay, I have to admit that since my first visit to Pi, I have become addicted to their pizza sauce, made with fresh San Marzano tomatoes grown in Lahaina. This taste treat surfaces rarely in Hawai‘i; try it on the fork-tender, house-made Italian sausage wrapped in kiawe-smoked bacon. Pi sources its pork from Olowalu Pig Farm. I couldn’t decide what I liked more: the fennel-flecked sausage, the bacon, or the sauce. Together, they became umami-sublimeness to the nth degree. The garlic bread is a must-have to sop up the rich continued on page 88 Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar - Apr 2015

Dining

Street-savvy wall art by Desmond Kaleolani Alexander spices up the ambiance at Pi Artisan Pizzeria.

Strozzapreti con kale salsiccia is a winner at Sale Pepe. Its handtwisted pasta is tossed with Italian San Marzano tomato marinara, spicy pork sausage and Maui-grown kale.

“The strozzapreti always wins. It’s just perfect.” Made in-house with imported semolina flour, the strozzapreti pasta is cooked al dente and topped with kale salsiccia, a sauté of fennel-laced garlic sausage and julienned curly green kale from Maui’s rich volcanic soil. Qiana says, “It is our most popular dish. Although we change things up with specials all the time, that dish will always remain on the menu.” Chef prepares the marinara for pasta dishes separately from the pizza sauce; the lighter preparation allows for a sauce that delicately coats the pasta, so as not to hide the flavor of the semolina. When I ask Michele about the creamy texture of his eggplant Parmesan, he smiles and says, “The recipe is my mother’s, but it probably came from my mother’s mother . . . then, my mother’s mother’s mother. . . .” You may order the tender meatballs—called polpette in Italian—as an appetizer, as a topping for homemade spaghetti, or, Qiana says, “Guests love it as a topping for pizza.” A gluten-free option, Sale Pepe’s risotto is made with Arborio, an Italian short-grain rice that the slow addition of just the right amount of broth transforms into tender, plump grains. Michele and Qiana emphasize seasonal ingredients; depending on the time of year, your risotto might feature saffron lobster or kabocha pumpkin. One memorable risotto dish, made with fresh Maui asparagus, left me swooning with delight as salty accents of spiced pancetta and a flurry of aged Parmigiano-Reggiano melded together in every bite. Desserts are created at the whim of the chef and change regularly. Order the classically prepared tiramisu and pray that tonight the (habit-forming) crunchy cannoli comes stuffed with rum-spiked ricotta. If you can’t go to Italy, eat here. Mangiare insieme! Let’s eat together! 878 Front St., Lahaina | 808-667-7667 | SalePepeMaui.com

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sauce and juices at the bottom of the dish. The heart of the restaurant is the kitchen, where manager Mitch Respicio presides. She oversees the build-your-ownpizza bar, which offers no fewer than a dozen toppings. Mitch personally fires the pies in a huge kiawe-wood-burning oven that hovers at 800 degrees. Just three minutes is the norm for a perfect blond-caramel-crusted pizza. Porchetta, a classic Italian dish, is a roulade of pork stuffed with herbs and garlic and slow roasted to succulence. As a pizza topping with a piquant, caper-laced salsa verde drizzled over the smoky meat, this goes into my food memory bank as a winner. A surprisingly modern twist is Pi’s popular spicy ‘ahi tataki pizza, marrying wild arugula and buffalo mozzarella with a sweet-tart balsamic glaze. Since my visit, I’ve dreamt about the Chop Chop Salad, full of fresh spinach, spicy greens, oven-roasted tomatoes and pecorino, tossed with Pi’s perfectly balanced house vinaigrette. The icy Blue Lavender Fizz, made with Maui lemons, lavender syrup, and blueberry vodka, is a bright and breezy pairing with the food, or enjoy one of the seven Kona Brewing Company beers on tap. Delicious! 900 Front St., Lahaina | 808-667-0791 | pi808.com Blue Lavender Fizz, made with Upcountry lavender syrup, Meyer lemon and blueberry vodka, is perfect for a Lahaina afternoon pick-me-up.

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Dining » CHEF’S KITCHEN

‘AHI TARTARE The Grand Wailea’s Humuhumunukunukuapua‘a takes its name from Hawai‘i’s state fish. So it’s no surprise the restaurant’s chef de cuisine knows his way around this savory raw dish. STORY BY BECKY SPEERE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIEKO HORIKOSHI

At the age of fourteen, Michael Lofaro worked his first job at a seafood restaurant outside of Providence, Rhode Island. Eight hours a day, five days a week, he peeled shrimp—qualifying him for the title of “fastest shrimp peeler on the East Coast.” A few years later, while he was dining with his parents, a fisherman friend walked up to them and said, “I’m looking for a deckhand.”

My eyes are as big as quarters as he recounts working on a longline fishing boat off the northern Atlantic Coast. “We’d be gone for two to three weeks, 500 to 700 miles offshore on a flat, calm ocean. And other times, we’d be in twenty- to thirtyfoot seas. The boat I fished on was the smallest boat in the fishing fleet, fifty-six feet long, named The Little One.” Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar - Apr 2015

Dining » CHEF’S KITCHEN

‘Ahi Tartare

Servings 4 | Prep Time 30 minutes

Ingredients ½ lb. fresh ‘ahi loin, diced 1 tsp. toasted cumin seed, ground 1 large green onion, minced 4 shiso leaves, sliced into a chiffonade salt and pepper to taste 3–4 oz. ginger-lime vinaigrette (recipe below) 1 oz. mixed soft herbs (cilantro, tarragon, parsley, chervil, chives, lemon balm) 20 slices of English cucumber sliced very thinly crosswise Ginger-Lime Vinaigrette (Makes 8 oz.) 3 oz. fresh lime juice 1 oz. fresh ginger juice 1 small shallot, minced 1” piece galangal, peeled and minced 4 oz. canola or grapeseed oil pinch cayenne pepper

We’re in the kitchen of the Grand Wailea’s Humuhumunukunukuapua‘a restaurant as Chef de Cuisine Lofaro preps sixty pounds of ‘ōpakapaka fillets for dinner service, easily running his razor-sharp Japanese Kikuichi knife through the pink flesh. He continues: “I was pulling in a huge swordfish, and just as I grabbed it by the mouth to pull it onto the boat, the biggest mako shark I’ve ever seen came straight up out of the water, and as we made eye contact, the shark took the fish’s body in its mouth in one bite, leaving me with two inches of fish in my hand.” The job gave Lofaro enough eye-popping stories to last a lifetime. A graduate of the prestigious Culinary

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Method For the vinaigrette: Mix first 4 ingredients in a bowl; whisk oil in slowly to emulsify. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and cayenne. For the tartare: Mix ‘ahi, green onion, cumin, shiso and 3–4 oz. vinaigrette to taste in a bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Arrange cucumber slices on 4 plates and mold ‘ahi above cucumber. In a small bowl, mix soft herbs with a dash of gingerlime vinaigrette and season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish top of ‘ahi with soft herbs and serve. WEB EXCLUSIVE: Chef Lofaro shares his recipe for Japanese hamachi carpaccio with yuzu, Hawaiian chili and celery-ginger shave ice at MauiMagazine.net/recipes.

Institute of America, he says, “I still use little tips and techniques from the school chefs. Nothing can replace a good educational foundation. It has opened lots of doors for me.” During a culinary internship under famed Chef Michael Mina of Aqua (later Michael Mina Restaurant) in San Francisco, “I got my butt kicked,” Lofaro says, “but I loved the restaurant environment. I went back after I graduated and stayed three-and-a-half years.” He worked New York’s culinary circuit, and from 2005 to 2007, served as executive chef at the four-star Mill’s Tavern in Rhode Island. Then Maui beckoned. In 2000, Mina had sent his former protégé to the island to open a restaurant at the Grand Wailea. That

venture didn’t materialize, but Lofaro’s time there helped him land a position at the Grand Wailea in 2008. “We work our kitchen with five very hardworking and talented chefs,” Lofaro adds. “We have a solid crew at Humu—front and back of the house.” American contemporary food, a blending of many ethnic flavors, is Lofaro’s niche. As he trims a stack of aojiso (Japanese green shiso) into perfect squares, then cuts it into perfect julienne, I know I’m in for a great ‘ahi tartare tasting. Humuhumunukunukuapua‘a Grand Wailea, A Waldorf Astoria Resort 3850 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea 875-1234 • GrandWailea.com/dine

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Dining » MAUI MIXOLOGY

PINEAPPLE SPARKLING WINE? It started in 1994 as a dare between Ulupalakua Ranch owner Pardee Erdman and Maui Wine president Paula Hegele: Make 100 cases of sparkling pineapple wine for the winery’s anniversary. Twenty years earlier, as Tedeschi Vineyards, the winery had experimented with fermenting pineapple while waiting for its newly planted grapevines to mature in fields tucked amid the ranch’s pastures. As the vines grew and the winery shifted to grape wines, it discontinued the pineapple sparkling wine, though people kept asking about it. So when Pard Erdman made that dare, Paula took it on. Recreated as Hula O Maui, the pineapple wine was a sparkling success, with all 100 cases selling out within two months. In 2013, it won a gold medal and a 90-point rating at the Los Angeles International Wine Competition; then earned a second gold at the 2014 the Dallas Morning News & TEXSOM Wine Competition. Hula O Maui remains among Maui Wine’s best sellers, with more than 2,500 cases produced every year. Paula’s son Joe grew up at the winery; today he’s Maui Wine’s director of sales and marketing, and an enthusiastic advocate for Hula O Maui. “People who say, ‘I don’t like pineapple wine,’ like this one,” says Joe.

STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

Good thing. Maui Wine produces Hula O Maui in the traditional méthode champenois, developed in 1600s in the Champagne region of France by the Benedictine monk Dom Perignon. “It’s the most hands-on, time-consuming and expensive way to make wine,” says Joe, “and the most quality driven. Not many wineries are crazy enough to make pineapple sparkling wine, and no one else is crazy enough to make it using the traditional method.” Every month, Brett Miller, Maui Wine’s head winemaker, surveys the fields at Hāli‘imaile Pineapple Company, tasting and selecting the fruit . . . after which, Hāli‘imaile Pine delivers thirty to forty tons of sweet, sun-ripened, handpicked pineapple. “We crush the pineapples whole, producing between 4,000 and 5,000 gallons of pineapple juice onsite every month to ensure freshness—the fruit is crushed and the juice pumped into the protection of a 4,000gallon, stainless-steel tank within minutes. It makes the whole town of Ulupalakua smell of fresh-cut pineapple for a couple of days!” Not all the juice ends up as pineapple wine. Some gets processed for Maui Brewing Company’s Mana Wheat ale, and for Pau Maui Vodka. The juice that stays at the winery

Ulupalakua Golden Lehua INGREDIENTS ½ oz. St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram ½ oz. Ron Zacapa Rum 4 2” pineapple cubes 4 oz. Hula O Maui pineapple sparkling wine 1 mint sprig METHOD Place allspice dram, rum and pineapple cubes in shaker and muddle. Strain over crushed ice in a martini glass. Fill with Hula O Maui sparkling wine and garnish with mint.

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Crowns removed, Maui Gold pineapples from Hāli‘imaile get chopped and diced, then gently crushed and the juice fermented.

spends approximately six months in those stainless-steel tanks, fermenting and finishing into a still wine base. A second fermentation takes place in the bottle with the addition of the liqueur de tirage (wine, yeast and sugar). This aging period, called tirage, is a precise and delicate balance as the winemaker works to ensure proper yeast viability and pressure. After the sugar is digested and lees (yeast residue) removed, the wine ages another three months in the bottle. The end product is a pineapple wine that is clean, crisp and refreshing—comparable to Brut in sweetness. Drink it as is, in a mimosa that Joe Hegele says will ruin you for all other mimosas, or try this playful cocktail created by Greg Shepherd at Cow Pig Bun in the Maui Research & Technology Park in Kīhei. We found it a spirit-driven cocktail with subtle reminders of a mai tai—great with quiche!

TOP: ORGANI STUDIOS; MIDDLE: AUBREY HORD; BOTTOM: COURTESY COW PIG BUN

Hula O Maui will sway you.

Dining » RAISE YOUR GLASS

A Wine Advice Column BY CHARLES FREDY

A LESSON IN BIODYNAMIC WINE Many people know Rudolph Steiner as the nineteenthcentury architect, social reformer and philosopher whose principles formed the basis of Waldorf education. But did you know that Steiner also helped establish the foundation for biodynamic wine? Or that his advice included packing crushed quartz into a cow horn and burying it in the field? Or, for that matter, what “biodynamic” means? Like organic farming, biodynamic agriculture avoids the Charles Fredy is an advanced sommelier use of pesticides and genetic engineering. Biodynamics with the Court of takes the concept further, working to create ecological selfMaster Sommeliers, and sufficiency and harmonize with nature. An avid experimenter, a certified specialist of Steiner explored different ways to enrich the soil for planting, wine with the Society employing manure; plants such as stinging nettle, chamomile of Wine Educators. A and dandelion flowers; and, yes, crushed quartz in cow horns, thirty-six-year veteran of the wine-andwhich he advised burying in the fall, digging up in the spring, spirits industry, he is and adding the crushed quartz to a mix for spraying on the director of sales and fields. The idea of burying something in the ground and then marketing for Chambers bringing it back into the light echoes fertility rites as old as & Chambers Wine the Egyptian god Osiris, and references the holistic idea of Merchants Hawai‘i. putting what remains of one year’s crop back into the soil to nourish the next. It’s also the idea from which the use of compost derives; vintners who follow biodynamic practices find that seed pumice left in the vat after fermentation makes a natural fertilizer. Producers such as Grgich Hills and Robert Sinskey use biodynamics to produce exciting wines that are as close to nature as possible. And here’s a surprise: Among the winemakers I have spoken with, many, like Randall Graham of Bonny Doon Vineyard, say that biodynamic practices increase the land’s ability to express its unique flavors and components in the wine—enhancing its terroir. The result is a wine that speaks of its place, that has its own distinctive signature. So, while some people scoff at biodynamic practices, those who use them to create the best possible wines find vindication in the results. Who’s to argue with world-class producers like Maison Chapoutier in the Rhone Valley; Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace; Nicolas Joly in the Loire; Dujac, Lafon, Leroy, or Domaine de la Romanée Conti in Burgundy—all among the elite in the wine business, and all using biodynamic farming. Here are some others: Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis Sainte Claire, AOC, France, 2012 Bonny Doon Vineyards, Le Cigare Volant, Syrah/Grenache Blend, Central Coast, 2010 Alois Lageder, Krafuss Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sudtirol, Alto Adige, Italy, 2010

TOP: JOSE MORALES

Bergström, Bergström Vineyard, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, 2012 Robert Sinskey, POV (Point-of-View), Proprietary Red Blend, 2010 Got a wine question? Contact Charles Fredy at facebook.com/ChambersWinesHawaii Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar - Apr 2015

dining guide B = Breakfast BR = Brunch  L = Lunch  D = Dinner N = Dinner past 9pm  RR = Reservation recommended  $ = Average entreé under $15 $$ = Under $25 $$$ = Under $40  $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2014

WEST SIDE ‘Aina Gourmet Market, Honua Kai Resort, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2800. Chef James McDonald oversees this deli’s menu, right down to the sun-ripened tomatoes and Maui onions grown upcountry at O’o Farm. Deli. B, L. $ Alaloa Lounge, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 RitzCarlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. A multiple ‘Aipono Award winner, this stylish bar attracts a cocktail generation as lovely as the views. Sushi. D, N. $ Aloha Mixed Plate, 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322. Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $ Amigo’s, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210. Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, chile verde, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Huge portions. Kidfriendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $

Black Rock Kitchen, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808-921-4600. Classic steakhouse fare with an island twist. Try the 16-ounce Black Angus rib eye or fresh catch with chef’s signature farm-to-table preparations. American/ Hawai‘i Regional. D. $$$ Cane & Canoe, Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Kapalua Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6639. The bright and lively breakfast menu includes poke fruit salad, Europeanstyle pastries and top-notch barista service. Later, toast the sunset with Chateau d’Esclans Whispering Angel rosé and succulent grilled octopus with duck chorizo and saffron-coconut veloute. Food service at bar 3–10 p.m. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$ Castaway Café, Aston Maui Kā‘anapali Villas, 45 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9091. A casual beachfront spot for local coffee and eggs Benedict with a view. At dinner, the chockablock wine cellar dresses up the simple, satisfying fare. American. B, L, D. $$ Cheeseburger in Paradise, 811 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4855. This family-friendly restaurant serves

up Angus beef burgers, refreshing salads and fun mixology, all with great ocean views, live entertainment and aloha. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D, N. $$ Choice Health Bar, 1087 Limahana Pl., Lahaina, 661-7711. Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are all made with fresh local ingredients. Daily specials, and an epic entrée with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red-pepper sesame sauce. American. B, L. $ The Coffee Store Nāpili, 5095 Nāpilihau St., Nāpili, 669-4170. Sip a cup of Kā‘anapali Peaberry or a Taste of Paradise paired with a freshly baked muffin, éclair or coconut macaroon. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Cool Cat Café, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 6670908. Burgers, chicken, fish and more, in a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $ Dollies Pub & Café, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Kahana, 669-0266. Hand-pressed crusts and stone ovens are two reasons this casual restaurant and sports bar won the Silver ‘Aipono for Best Pizza. Menu items range from Dollies cheese steak and meatball subs to Mark’s Costa Rican salad. L, D, N. $–$$ Drums of the Pacific Lū‘au, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234. Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kidfriendly. Hawaiian. D, RR. $$$$ Duke’s, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900. Imagine Old Hawai‘i at this open-air beach house while dining on crab- and macadamia-nut wontons or prime rib. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$ The Feast at Lele, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353. This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Hawaiian/Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Fleetwood’s on Front St., 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. (Yes, that Fleetwood.) British pub meets American restaurant. Kid-friendly. British/ American. B, L, D, RR. $$$ The Gazebo, Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-5621. Mac-nut pancakes, French toast and legendary fried rice served with an ocean view. Kid-friendly. American. B, L. $ Gerard’s, 174 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-8939. Chef Gerard Reversade delights guests with ‘ahi stew made “just like in the Basque country.” Terrific ‘ahi tartare, perfect pastries. French. D. $$$$ Honokōwai Okazuya, 3600-D L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Honokōwai, 665-0512. Plate lunches piled high with two-scoops rice and mac salad fly out the door of this tiny takeout shop. Local Mixed Plate. No credit cards. Closed Sun. L. $

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Honu Seafood & Pizza, 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390. Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$ Hula Grill, 2345 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636. Dip your toes in sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy kiawe-grilled ono on fresh spinach, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music. Kidfriendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$

fine mexican. seafood. Tequila.

Japengo, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4796. Savor delicacies like abalone sashimi, and shave your own wasabi root with a sharkskin grater. Japanese/Sushi. D, N. $$$ Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. Kā‘anapali, 661-0011. Sunday’s brunch buffet features a huge selection of traditional and Hawaiian dishes, champagne, and Hawaiian entertainment. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. BR. $$$ Kai, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. Sushi Chef Tadashi Yoshino and his team work magic with spicy tuna, uni (sea urchin) and tai (snapper). Sip unfiltered Japanese saké as you enjoy the coastal view. Sushi. D. $$$ Kimo’s, 845 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4811. Savor one of the island’s best mai tais on an oceanfront lānai. Opt for sweet basil fish or the 32-oz. prime rib. Save room for Hula Pie. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D. $$

Lunch + Happy Hour + Dinner / Fairway shops in kA'Anapali sangritagrill.com +

+ 8 0 8 .6 6 2 .6 0 0 0

Koa’s Seaside Grill, 839 Front St., Lahaina, 6677737. The folks at Gazebo run this oceanfront eatery, and serve the same famous breakfast menu from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Plus pulled-pork sandwiches, prime rib and mahimahi. American. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$ Kobe Japanese Steak House & Oku’s Sushi Bar, 136 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 667-5555. Flying shrimp, whirling spatulas and late-night karaoke make this longtime Lahaina icon fun. Kid-friendly. Japanese/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$ Lahaina Fish Co., 831 Front St., Lahaina, 6613472. Grab an oceanfront seat and dig into fresh mahi and sautéed sea scallops in cream sauce. A wide selection of surf and turf, memorable tropical drinks, and a happy hour that lasts from noon to 6 p.m. L, D. $$–$$$ Lahaina Grill, 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117. This glamorous restaurant is always on point. Sommelier Richard Olson III suggests lively wine pairings for the famed ‘ahi and foie gras. Hawai‘i Regional. D, RR. $$$$ Lahaina Pizza Company, 730 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0700. Deep-dish pizza, hearty salads and sandwiches draw crowds to this relaxed Lahaina hangout. Live music nightly. American/Italian. L, D. $$ Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495. Snack on burgers or appetizers while you view Kā‘anapali’s sparkling sands at the Beachside Grill. In the dining room, try the panko-herb-crusted daily catch. Kidfriendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D, N. $$ Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600. The pies may win hearts, but the fried salad and home-baked breads also warrant repeat visits to this homey Olowalu outpost. American. B, L, D. $ Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar-Apr 2015

dining guide Longhi’s, 888 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2288. For breakfast at this open-air landmark, try the eggs Benedict on thick toasted French bread. For dinner, use the jalapeño cheese bread to sop up sauce served with the shrimp Longhi. Italian. B, L, D. $$$–$$$$ LuLu’s Lahaina Surf Club & Grill. 1221 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Lahaina, 661-0808. Creative dishes range from blackened ‘ahi Benedict with Cajun hollandaise, to crispy shrimp tossed in honey-mac-nut aioli, to li hing mui barbecued-chicken flatbread. Kid-friendly. Asian-American. B, L, D, N. $$ Mala Ocean Tavern, 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9394. Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the health-conscious and the hedonistic at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (Sat & Sun), L, D. $$ Mama’s Ribs & Rotisserie, 5095 Nāpilihau St., Nāpili, 665-6262. See South Shore listing. Maui Fish & Pasta, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-0668. D.K. Kodama helms this oceanfront eatery. Try Mama Kodama’s meatloaf topped with two poached eggs, crispy onions and gravy on rice; homemade fettuccine with pan-seared mahi, or D.K.’s outrageous dragon sushi. Asian Fusion. B, L, D. $$$ Maui Sugar Shop, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 662-0033. Delectable gluten-free, paleo and vegan delights such as quiches, Belgian waffles, muffins, cakes and more at this bakery café. Bakery. B, L. $ Merriman’s Kapalua, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 6696400. Dramatic views of the golden crescent beach and islands on the horizon accent the largely organic and local menu. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, RR. $$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana, 669-9010. Sushi served on-site, takeout or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and house specialty rolls. Japanese. L, D. $$ Old Lahaina Lū‘au, 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 6671998. Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomi lomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Hawaiian. D, RR. $$$$ Pacific’O, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341. Chef Anton Haines wraps tender lobster in homemade pasta and blankets it with uni emulsion. Or try coconutmac-crusted mahi filet with peanut sauce, served with black Thai mochi rice. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Penne Pasta, 180 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 6616633. Dig into flavorful, affordable pasta dishes while people-watching from this cozy spot tucked down a Lahaina side street. Kid-friendly. Italian. L, D, N. $$ Pineapple Grill, 200 Kapalua Dr., Kapalua, 669-9600. MNKO readers repeatedly vote Pineapple Grill “Restaurant of the Year,” with “Best Wine List.” The menu includes corn bisque with lobster shumai, pistachio-crusted ‘ahi and signature pineapple upsidedown cake. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, RR. $$$ Pi Artisan Pizza, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0791. Handcrafted pizzas baked in kiawe-wood-burning ovens. Build your own pizza with local produce and artisanal ingredients like homemade Italian sausage and fresh Lahaina tomato sauce. Italian. L, D. $–$$ Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636. Upfront-and-center views of the bustling har-

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bor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Pizza Paradiso Mediterranean Grill, 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929. Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a perfect side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$ Plantation House Restaurant, 2000 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua, 669-6299. Panoramic views are the backdrop for Chef Jojo Vasquez’s gourmet fare on the famed Plantation Course. Outstanding brunch. Hawai‘i Regional/Mediterranean. B, BR, L, D. $$$ Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Try the bruschetta trio with Surfing Goat Dairy cheese, Hāmākua mushrooms and roasted local tomatoes. Closed Tues–Wed. Italian. D. $$$ Relish Burger Bistro, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. All-natural Kobe beef burgers, fish sandwiches, salads with island greens, and huli huli grilled chicken breast, served poolside in an open-air setting. Kid-friendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Roy’s, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali 669-6999. Celebrity Chef Roy Yamaguchi rocks vibrant local fish and produce, prepared with Asian attention to detail. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Lahaina Center, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 661-8815. Steaks worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earn the Ruth’s Chris chain devoted fans. This restaurant doesn’t stray from the flock. Several tables overlook the harbor. American. D, N. $$$$ Sale Pepe, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667. Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads are highlights on a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta tossed with fresh kale and Italian sausage—like Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian. D. $$ Sangrita Grill + Cantina, Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 662-6000. Chef Paris Nabavi’s inspired versions of authentic Mexican fare include chipotle-pineapple guacamole, “kick-ass carnitas” braised in duck fat, seafood chile relleno, and refreshing mahimahi ceviche with mango. Top mixology action, too! Mexican. L, D. $–$$ Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286. D.K. Kodama’s wildly popular restaurant draws lines late into the night. Small and action-packed, this classy sushi bar is the place to try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$ The Sea House Restaurant, Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 Lower Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 6691500. Start your day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fresh fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp while the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammy-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack-key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Shark Pit Food Truck, 79 Ulupono St., Lahaina, 298-7776. Kabayaki meatball sub, steak or spicy shrimp tacos with Korean aioli, USDA Prime beef

burgers and fresh catch on a taro brioche bun. Hawai‘i Regional. L. $ Slappy Cakes, 3350 Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Kā‘anapali, 419-6600. Cook your own pancakes with your favorite toppings, or try weekly specials like steak poke rice bowl. All meat and dairy are hormone-free; pancake/pastry is scratch-baked. American/Local. B, L (D Friday–Sunday). $$ Son’z Steak House, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6674506. Swans glide up tableside here, and the wine cellar ranks among the largest in the state. Chef Geno Sarmiento’s tiger-eye sushi tempura and ‘ahi prime rib with wasabi mashed potatoes are instant favorites. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$$$ Star Noodle, 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 667-5400. Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$ Sugar Cane Maui, 736 Front St., Lahaina, 2146662. French master chef Philippe Chin reimagines island cuisine with ‘ahi nachos on sesame-spinach salad, Asian BBQ short ribs with purple yams, fresh tuna steak on wasabi mashed potatoes and more. Asian Fusion. B, L, D. $–$$$ Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111. The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $ Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808-921-4600. For starters, try the “Oyster Dan”—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko atop a bed of spinach. Then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate. Japanese/ Steak. D, RR. $$$ Thai Chef, Old Lahaina Center, 800 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814. This small, well-loved restaurant keeps West Side fans coming back for more with its commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $ Trilogy Excursion’s Captain’s Sunset Dinner Sail, Mā‘alaea Harbor, 661-4743. Board a luxury catamaran for Chef Bailey’s four-course dinner. Choose from rosemary-garlic-crusted steak on a bed of roasted garlic cabernet demi-glace, fresh wild-caught mahi mahi with lemon caper butter, or vegetarian pasta. Premium open bar with cocktails, Maui Brewery and wine selections. American. D. RR. $$$$ ‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, D. $$$

CENTRAL Amigo’s, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 872-9525. See West Side listing. Bistro Casanova, 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 8733650. This “downtown” bistro branches out from its Upcountry sister, adding paella for two, fresh-cut french fries, and seductive crêpes to the menu. Mediterranean. L, D. $ Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar-Apr 2015

dining guide Café O’Lei, The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073. Mac-nut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites, served in a setting overlooking a links-style golf course and the West Maui Mountains. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ (Second Central Maui location: Waiehu Golf Course, 200 Halewaiu Rd., Waiehu, 242-2770) Da Kitchen, Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782. Any place that claims “the World’s Biggest Plate Lunch” is bound to have a nearreligious following on Maui. Try lip-smacking tempura fish, and pork laulau (pork wrapped in steamed taro leaves). Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $

describes this organic eatery’s pono bowl: kale salad atop quinoa and tofu. The taro veggie burgers and the poi açai bowl with fresh fruit are a delicious spin on a local staple. Call in your order to expedite service. Maui-style, Takeout Only. B, L. $

Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-2877. Eclectic artwork and brightly painted tables decorate this popular gathering spot. At Happy Cappy Hour, 2 p.m. to closing, cappuccinos are special price. Coffee Shop. B, L. $

Leis Family Class Act Restaurant, UH–Maui College, 310 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 9843280. Voted one of the top 100 restaurants in the US by OpenTable.com diners. The three-course prix fixe menu prepared by Maui Culinary Academy staff and students changes weekly. Limited bookings, Wednesdays and Fridays. BYOB. L, RR. $$$

Paradise Market, 207 E. Wakea Ave., Kahului, 877-6767. Filipino dishes served plate-lunch style: lechon kawaii (roasted pork with fresh-chopped tomato salsa), pancit, bangus (milk fish), coconut sticky-rice desserts and more. Filipino. B, L, D. $

Marco’s Grill & Deli, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-4446. Head to Marco’s for a good Reuben, meatball parmigiano, or tiramisu. Italian. B, L, D. $$

Farmacy Health Bar, 12 Market St., Wailuku, 866-4312. Pono means excellence, which perfectly

Las Piñatas, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 8778707. The home of the famous Kitchen Sink burrito, plus tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas . . . and a self-serve salsa bar. Ole! Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ Ruby’s Diner, 275 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 248-7829. Classic burgers, all-American sandwiches, deluxe shakes and malts in a nostalgic diner setting. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D. $ A Saigon Café, 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 2439560. Squeeze into a booth beside local lawmakers and order Buddha rolls and lemongrass curry. The comedic servers don’t miss a beat. Vietnamese. L, D. $ Sam Sato’s, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2447124. This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L. $ Wailuku Coffee Company, 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259. Espresso, ice cream and sandwiches cater to the downtown crowd. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Whole Foods Market, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 872-3310. All things fresh and healthy. Order from the deli or construct your own meal from the salad and hot-food bars. Get it to go, or dine here inside or out. B, L, D. $

lahaina fried soup yakitori

pahole salad

star udon

garlic noodles

singapore noodles

steamed pork buns hapa ramen

ahi avo pad thai

sake cocktails

UPCOUNTRY, NORTH SHORE, HĀNA Café Des Amis, 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-6323. Savory crêpes are served with wild greens and a dollop of sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney and raita, Indian yogurt sauce. Kid-friendly. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $ Café Mambo, 30 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8021. For lunch or dinner, share the steak, tofu, or duck fajitas, served with a lazy Susan piled high with tasty condiments; or pick up packed lunches for the long trip to Hāna. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $$ Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli, 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220. Order a tartufo pizza or carbonara pasta at this Upcountry institution, and stay for the night’s entertainment. Visiting musicians make the dance floor one of the island’s hottest. Kid-friendly. Italian. B, L, D. $$ Colleen’s at the Cannery, 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211. Sink into a comfy booth and enjoy a roasted eggplant sandwich on homemade bread. The pizza is a well-loved standard. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D. $-$$. Dazoo, 71 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-9999. Salads and Vietnamese street food at lunch; for dinner, Hāmākua ali‘i mushrooms and spicy Maui beef-andbacon meatballs; and for weekend brunch, Benedicts, liliko‘i pancakes, and bibimbap. Award-winning cocktails, and the tiny, attached bakery offers artisan

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dining guide breads and house-made pastries till noon. Fusion, Bakery. BR (Sat & Sun), L, D. $$–$$$ Flatbread Company, 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989. Big booths, charity nights, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies have made this a North Shore institution. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$ Grandma’s Coffee House, 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140. The eggs Benedict and made-from-scratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion; for dinner, fresh fish or Grandma’s home-style meatloaf with carrot-mashed potatoes. American/Coffeehouse. B, L (D Wed–Sat). $$–$$$ Hāli‘imaile General Store, 900 Hāli‘imaile Rd., Hāli‘imaile, 572-2666. Chef Bev Gannon dishes up fresh fish, local meats, and regional produce drenched in complex sauces. The towering sashimi appetizer is legendary, as is Bev’s crab dip. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Makawao Steak House, 3612 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-8711. Charbroiled steaks come with baked beans and focaccia bread. Start with the signature onion soup topped with billowy puff pastry. Steak. D. $$ Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488. Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine. Every detail evokes old-time island hospitality, from the walkway’s Escheresque gecko tiles to the mahimahi steamed in traditional lū‘au leaves. Hawaiian/ Seafood. L, D, RR. $$$$

Market Fresh Bistro, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-4877. Chef Justin Pardo brings a passion for sustainable food to this courtyard gem. Try a breakfast frittata or pan-roasted crab cakes with corn succotash. Dinner served Thursday through Saturday. Call for dates on special farm dinners. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Milagro’s, 3 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8755. The corner of Baldwin and Hāna Highway can’t be beat for people-watching. Sample a variety of fine tequilas and dig into ‘ahi tacos topped with a sweet-spicy salsa. Mexican. L, D. $$ Nuka, 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939. Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then move on to ‘ahi tataki with house-special ponzu sauce. Tempura shrimp udon is light and crispy. Save room for black-sesame or greentea ice cream. Japanese. D. $$–$$$ O’o Farm, 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour. Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and freshly roasted coffee. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted root vegetables and dessert. Maui Comfort Food. B, L. $$$$ Pā‘ia Fishmarket, 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030. The huge slabs of fresh fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the long line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $ Polli’s Mexican Restaurant, 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-7808. The sign outside says, “Come in and eat, or we’ll both starve!” Follow that

advice to find entrees like kitchen-sink burritos and grilled carne asada plates with refried beans and Spanish rice. L, D. $$ La Provence, 5355 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313. The glass case overflows with perfect croissants, fruit tarts, and arguably the world’s best mango-blueberry scones. On Sundays, muscle past Kula’s long-distance cyclists to order a Benedict or salmon-pesto crepe. Bakery. B, BR Weekends. $ Thai Food by Pranee, 5050 Uakea Rd., Hāna. No phone, no website, no worries. This hole-in-the-wall is worth seeking out for its crispy ‘ōpakapaka with green mango salad alone. Daily specials, generous portions, cash only. Thai. L. $

SOUTH SHORE Amigo’s, 41 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 879-9952. See West Side listing. Bistro Molokini, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Chef Michael Young knows how to satisfy keiki as well as their parents. Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh local ingredients. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $$$ Botero Bar, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures that surround it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays—when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. Cocktails. L, D, N. $

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dining guide Café O’Lei, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368. See Central listing. Caffe Ciao Deli, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Healthy vegetarian fare, deli sandwiches and spectacular desserts abound at this take-out or eat-in deli. Espresso drinks, baked goods and house-made gelato, too. American/Italian. B, L, D. $$ Capische?, Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224. Chef/owner Brian Etheredge presents a sumptuous risotto with white-truffle shavings and quail saltimbocca at his intimate locale. Reserve seats for Il Teatro, downstairs, where the chef cooks regional Italian right in front of you. Italian. D. $$$$ Chez Mēmē Bistro & Bakery, 115 Kio Loop, Kīhei, 879-5425. Mango-nectar mimosas quench the morning thirst as you dive into tender brioche French toast, or a ham-and-Gruyère baguette sandwich for lunch. French-American. B, L. $ Coconuts Fish Café, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979. Fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers, fish and chips. Frances’s famous cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this place apart. American. L, D. $$ Cow Pig Bun, 535 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 875-8100. If a Brandt premium beef burger slathered in foie gras butter, smokey bourbon-bacon jam and blue cheese makes you want to say, “Moo!” this is the place. Try Aaron’s cocktail with allspice liqueur, fresh lime and bourbon. Maui-style Comfort Food. L, D, N. $$

Cuatro, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-1110. Latin and Pacific Rim flavors mingle at this pocket-sized restaurant. Try spicy ‘ahi nachos or a “Maui-terranian” fish—dressed in basil beurre blanc, salsa, and balsamic syrup. Latin/Pacific Rim. D. $$$ Da Kitchen, Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782. See Central listing. Duo, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Duo reinvents the classic “surf and turf.” Japanese Kobe tenderloin (the real thing) and dry-aged rib eye are a carnivore’s delight. Choose a strong wine to match your meat’s performance. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$$$ Eskimo Candy Seafood Market & Deli, 2665 Wai Wai Pl., Kīhei, 879-5686. Locals come here for the rice bowl topped with four types of poke: shoyu, spicy wasabi, furikake and spicy. Fresh opah fish and chips with cabbage coleslaw. Seafood, Deli. Local. L, D. $-$$ Fabiani’s Pizzeria & Bakery, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888. Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with locally harvested tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made porksausage meatballs. Italian. B, L, D. $$ Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711. What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked 15 hours over fragrant kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy with sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans, and two cabbage slaws: one sweet-tart, the other with blue cheese and apples. American. L, D, N. $–$$

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Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. This poolside restaurant caters to highclass tastes, with lobster sandwiches and gourmet gelato. At night, the atmosphere transforms into an oceanfront slice of Italy. Italian. D, RR. $$$$ Five Palms, 2960 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2607. Watch the whales cruise by and enjoy lobster-tempura sushi and baked artichokes—half-price from 3 to 6 p.m. Breakfast is generously served until 2:30 p.m. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Four Seasons Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. D, N, RR. $$$$ Gannon’s, 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 8758080. Order drinks at the Red Bar, then enjoy Chef Beverly Gannon’s fine comfort food: maple-vinaigrettesweetened chicken salad, or venison atop rich Parmesan risotto. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Humuhumunukunukuapua‘a, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. If fresh island prawns in Thai ginger, tomato broth and tapioca pearls, or brioche- and lemongrass-crusted rack of lamb doesn’t make you want to dance the hula, the tender butter lettuce, Cabot white Cheddar cheese, Asian pears, and candied macadamia nuts tossed in a mustard vinaigrette will. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$ Joe’s Bar & Grill, 131 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 875-7767. Eavesdrop on the rich and famous while

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dining guide digging into sauce-drenched ribs, prime rib or seafood at this insider’s hangout. American. D. $$$ Joy’s Place, 1993 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9258. Brilliant collard-green wraps; sandwiches on thick bread; and awesome, daily made soups are just a few of the reasons to scout out this humble but bright jewel. American/Vegetarian. B, L. $–$$ Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Chef Isaac Bancaco creates seasonal dishes that change weekly, such as lobster bathed in vanilla-cream reduction, watermelon salad with Surfing Goat Dairy feta, and sublime nuggets of foie gras malasadas. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$ Kīhei Caffe, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230. Tasty, egg scrambles, house-baked pastries, fish with rice, and fresh juices lend you strength for catching waves across the street at Cove Park. Kid-friendly. American. B, L. $ Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer, and “On the Rock”—three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, D. RR. $$$ Longhi’s Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883. Stop in for a crisp pinot grigio and a Longhi Longhi Longhi salad (that’s its real name)— crisp romaine tossed with reggiano cheese, lemonfeta vinaigrette, and anchovies. Italian. B, L, D. $$$

Mala Wailea, Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8759394. The ample brunch buffet includes the Mala Benny (with prosciutto, lamb sausage, or wild mushrooms), omelets and chilaquilas. Mediterranean. B, D. $$$ Mama’s Ribs & Rotisserie, 1819 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7755. Succulent baby back ribs and hearty rotisserie chicken, plus daily-made sides like creamy coleslaw, mac salad and BBQ baked beans. Kidfriendly. American. L, D. $ Manoli’s Pizza Company, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499. The latest offering by Tri-Star Restaurant Group, Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppini or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna. American/Italian. L, D, N. $$ The Market by Capische, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 879-2433. Homemade breads and pastas, salads to go, and sandwiches like the Haole Hoagie: pepper-crusted turkey on sourdough with red-dragon cheese and cumin aioli. Full barista service features coffee drinks sweetened with freshpressed sugarcane juice, and the cheese is made on Maui. L, D. $$ Matteo’s Osteria, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466. Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade. Or try the Tuscan kale-and-hemp salad with lemonhoney-mustard dressing. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$

Maui Thai Bistro, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8745605. Fragrant with kaffir lime leaves, the Bistro’s tom yum shrimp-fried rice just might become your favorite lunch on Maui. Or try the green-mango salad with crispy fish, then finish with house-made black sesame ice cream. Curries are made to order with freshly ground herbs and spices. Thai. L, D. $–$$ Memphis Belle Coffee House, 1794 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4091. Serious coffee and fresh-baked goodies to rev you up, morning or afternoon. Healthy papaya yogurt cups, bacon-brioche donuts, and the Black Market Cronut: croissant dough with dark chocolate glaze. Coffee House, Bakery. B, L. $ MiGRANT, Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9394. Chef Sheldon Simeon of Top Chef fame creates locally inspired dishes with a sophisticated slant. Pork adobo, savory pancit and crunchy lumpia take on contemporary personalities as Chef Sheldon works his magic. Filipino/Asian. D. $$$$ Monkeypod Kitchen, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 879-2322. Thirty-six craft beers on tap, handcrafted cocktails featuring local ingredients, and a diverse wine list are hallmarks of Chef Peter Merriman’s stylish bar and eatery. American. L, D, N. $$ Morimoto Maui, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Iron Chef’s Masaharu Morimoto combines signature and Maui-centric dishes such as rib-eye beef burgers lobster roll sandwiches. Dinner catches fire with prix fixe omakase. Handcrafted mixology and a dazzling selection of sakés. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $$$$

a restaurant created by a man who loves to eat Serving Hawai‘i Since 1976

Best Award of Excellence Wine Spectator

Best Breakfast in Hawai‘i Zagat Survey

Restaurant of Distinction Honolulu Magazine Hale ‘Aina Award

Best Restaurant Honolulu Advertiser I‘lima Award

Best Italian Restaurant The Maui News “Best of Maui” Award

Best Mediterranean BEST Guidebook

‘Aipono Icon Award, Bob Longhi Maui No Ka ‘Oi Magazine

L A H A I N A / 8 8 8 F r o n t S t r e e t / 8 0 8 . 6 6 7. 2 2 8 8 WAILEA / The Shops at Wailea / 808.89 1.8883 HONOLULU / Ala Moana Center / 808.944.3733

WWW.LONGHIS.COM Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar-Apr 2015

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dining guide Nick’s Fishmarket, Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a trellis of stephanotis and a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. D, RR. $$$$ Outback Steakhouse, 281 Pi‘ikea Ave., Kīhei, 8798400. Personable servers, steaks and shrimp hot off the “barbie” and a menu just for “joeys” (kids) make eating an adventure at this Aussie-themed chain restaurant. Kid-friendly. Steak. L, D, N. $$ Roasted Chiles, Azeka Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357. Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas and fresh mixology. Mexican. L, D. $-$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880. See West Side listing. Saltimbocca, 300 Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 2433463. Savor crispy ravioli stuffed with lamb, ricotta and mint; house-made tagiatelle with prawns, asparagus and mushrooms in truffle cream sauce; pumpkin ravioli; or carne platter for two with pork chop, veal piccata, osso bucco and risotto. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004. See West Side listing.

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Sarento’s on the Beach, 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555. Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, D. RR. $–$$$ South Shore Tiki Lounge, Kīhei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-6444. Gourmet pizza, burgers, salads, and several vegetarian items round out this hip bar’s menu. American. L, D, N. $ Spago, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Chef Cameron Lewark’s ‘ōpakapaka sashimi and perfectly seared Kobe beef match the trendsetting wine list note for note. Spectacular sunsets may as well be on the menu. Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Thailand Cuisine, 1819 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-0839. Gracious waitstaff welcome you with a steaming pot of vanilla tea. Sticky rice served in a woven Thai basket perfectly complements the flavorful red duck, lobster, or tofu curries. Thai. L, D. $–$$ Three’s Bar & Grill, 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133. Southwest, Pacific Rim, and Hawaiian flavors mingle at this eclectic bistro. Try the tasty CoCoNut Porter BBQ sauce on the kalua pork sandwich, build-your-own burger, or quesadillas. Pupu served till midnight. Pacific Rim, Southwest. L, D, N. $$ Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8759983. Who guessed a clothing company could deliver mean pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, D, N. $–$$

ISLAND OF LĀNA‘I Coffee Works, 604 Ilima St., Lāna‘i City, 808565-6962. Fruity açai bowls, pastries and espresso drinks offer a bright start to your day. Plus light lunch fare, Italian sodas, and Internet access. Café. B, L. $ Lāna‘i City Grille, Hotel Lāna‘i, 828 Lāna‘i Ave., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-7211. Located in a historic 1920s building, the grille offers a menu that will cure your big-city blues, like panko-gingercrusted mahi on shiitake-mushroom risotto with soy beurre blanc. Closed Mon.–Tues. American. L, D. RR. $$$ Nobu Lāna‘i, Mānele Bay Hotel, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-2832. Teppanyaki tables and a new sushi bar keep company with Nobu’s signature dishes. Japanese. D. $$$–$$$$ One Forty, Mānele Bay Hotel, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-2290. Inspired by Lāna‘i’s 140 square-mile footprint, and the temperature for grilling a medium-rare steak to perfection, One Forty features prime and wagyu beef, local seafood and breakfast buffet. Steak/Seafood. B, D. $$$ Views at Mānele Golf Course, Mānele Bay Hotel, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-2230. Fresh island–Baja cuisine makes Views an olé in one! Mexican. L, Happy Hour. $$$ Find more listings at MauiMagazine.net/Dining.

‘ai: to eat | pono: excellence

‘aipono wine dinner series:

an educational culinary experience . . . with benefits

LEARN

DRINK

EAT

SUPPORT

The ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series brings you fine wines paired with superb cuisine at surprisingly reasonable prices. Proceeds benefit UH Maui Culinary Academy. Each festive ‘Aipono Wine Dinner treats you and like-minded wine-and-food aficionados to an engaging dinner by one of Maui’s celebrity chefs. Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy will guide you through the courses with an introduction to each wine. It’s an evening of excellence from start to finish. Don’t miss any in the series! Visit www.mauimagazine.net or call 808.242.8331 to sign up for the ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series mailing list.

An exquisite wine showcase created by Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants

The next wine event will be:

Hosted by:

The Wines of Piedmont Chef Christopher Kulis brings a disciplined focus on technique and extraordinary standards of quality to the kitchens of both Capische and Il Teatro. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, Kulis joined the team here after a successful tenure as sous chef at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon in Yountville, California. His culinary career has taken him across the United States and Europe. Guests are treated to the results of this diverse and exhilarating culinary journey when they enjoy the masterful creations he offers. t Known for its elegant and ethereal wines, Piedmont is often called “the Burgundy of Italy.” Winemakers here are passionate about quality, and their wines deliver. We invite you to join us for a memorable and evocative experience, exploring Barolo and Barbaresco wines. You will taste the history of the region in every sip.

Capische? Hotel Wailea Maui, 555 Kaukahi Street, Wailea

Friday, April 10 Reception 6 p.m. Dinner 6:30 p.m.

Call for reservations: 879.2224 For the menu, visit MauiMagazine.net/AiponoDinners $125 per person, plus tax and gratuity $25 from each dinner goes to Maui Culinary Academy.

calendar

WHAT’S HAPPENING WHERE, WHEN AND WITH WHOM

From left: Massive Company, March 5 | Annie Get Your Gun, March 6–22 | Lee Brice, March 7 | Taste of School Gardens, March 7

DAILY

Native Plant Guided Tour Maui Nui Botanical Gardens 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului Brochures for self-guided walking tours are included with the price of admission; audio tour wands are available to rent; and docent-led group tours are $10 per person (by appointment only). 249-2798, mnbg.org

Peter Kater & R. Carlos Nakai Castle Theater, MACC Recipients of a combined 21 Grammy nominations, Native American flutist R. Carlos Nakai and pianist/ composer Peter Kater present an evening of New Age and World music. 7:30 p.m.

& APRIL 22

Blue‘Aina Reef Cleanups Lahaina Harbor 675 Wharf Street, Lahaina Join Trilogy Excursions and Surfrider Foundation and help clean up the reef. $25 donation benefits local nonprofit conservation organizations. Information and reservations: 875-9325 or 879-2818, ext. 239.

APRIL 5

Featured Artists Lahaina Arts Society’s Old Jail Gallery The gallery showcases Earl Thompson’s multimedia piece There Might Be Dragons, and Ellen Levinsky’s Fantastic Feather Creations. Opening reception March 13, 6–8 p.m.

35

ONGOING

Meet the Artist Lahaina Arts Society’s Old Jail Gallery Talk story and watch member artists at work, in residence Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays in March. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

WHERE IT’S AT

Maui Arts & Cultural Center (MACC) One Cameron Way, Kahului 242-SHOW (7469) • MauiArts.org

Massive Company: The Brave Castle Theater, MACC Auckland’s leading theater company creates a tale of secrets and survival tactics, true confessions and raw athleticism. 7:30 p.m. Adventure on the High Seas King Kamehameha Golf Club 2500 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū Maui Academy of Performing Arts hosts a swashbuckling soiree of feasting and carousing. Tickets $150. 6–10 p.m. MauiAcademy.org

622

Annie Get Your Gun Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui OnStage presents this love story of sharpshooters Annie Oakley and Frank Butler, featuring a classic Irving Berlin score. Fridays & Saturdays 7:30 p.m. Sundays 3 p.m.

Lee Brice & Chris Young Castle Theater, MACC Two of Country music’s biggest stars share the stage for an evening of hits. 7:30 pm.

Taste of School Gardens Hotel Wailea 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea Grow Some Good hosts its annual fundraiser. Top Maui chefs create gourmet dishes, using ingredients grown in school gardens, plus fine wines, music, and a silent auction. Proceeds benefit school-garden programs around Maui. 5–8:30 p.m. Tickets: GrowSomeGood.org/events

Symphony of the Soil McCoy Studio Theater, MACC The literary salon The Green Room screens a film that explores the relationship among soil, water, the atmosphere, plants and animals. Award-winning filmmaker Deborah Koons Garcia’s debut documentary was The Future of Food; Q&A follows. 6:30 p.m.

FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES Each week, a different Maui town hosts music, children’s activities, artists’ demos and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m. It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike. Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com Mar 6, Apr 3 First Friday Wailuku

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Mar 13, Apr 10 Mar 20, Apr 17 Second Friday Lahaina Third Friday Makawao

www.mauimagazine.net

Mar 27, Apr 24 Fourth Friday Kīhei

Lahaina Arts Society Lahaina Courthouse 648 Wharf St., Lahaina 661-0111 • LahainaArts.com

Maui OnStage Historic ‘Īao Theater 68 N. Market St., Wailuku 242-6969 • MauiOnStage.com Viewpoints Gallery 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao 572-5979 • ViewpointsGalleryMaui.com CHANGE HAPPENS. Sometimes after we go to press. Please check beforehand to confirm events are happening as listed.

15, 29; APRIL 35; MAY 23

Fine Art Fair Banyan Tree Park 648 Wharf St., Lahaina Browse paintings, ceramics, photography, jewelry, carvings and more under the banyan tree next to the Old Lahaina Courthouse. 9 a.m.–5 p.m.

The Leprechaun Chase This three-mile walk/run starts at Kahului Ale House in Maui Mall—and yes, there’s a leprechaun. (See Arts & Leisure page 27.)

BOOK TRUST EXTRAVAGANZA Mala Wailea Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea March 14 Test your luck and support literacy at this gala featuring casino games, auction items, cuisine by Chef Sheldon Simeon, and open bar. Tickets $150. 5:30–9 p.m. The nonprofit Book Trust empowers children from low-income families to own books, increasing their literacy skills and fostering lifelong learning. BookTrust.org

L–R: MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER; MAUI ONSTAGE/BRETT WULFSON; MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER; GROW SOME GOOD/JESS CRAVEN

MARCH

BOB BANGERTER

SWELL OFFER! 6 ISSUES A YEAR, JUST $21 Western Publishing Association has named Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi among the Best Regional Consumer Magazines 5 years running.

CALL 844-808-MAUI (6284) Hours of operation: 9 a.m.–5 p.m. HST

or order online at

Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net Group and gift subscriptions available.

Your journey becomes part of the adventure as you watch free entertainment, snack on artisan food and beverages, relax in our custom, leather, power-equipped seats, and enjoy our award-winning service. It’s all part of Alaska Beyond —a new flight experience designed to go above and beyond your expectations. TM

Advertised amenities may vary according to aircraft type and route. Limited time offer: premium movies and TV shows free through January 31, 2015. Alaska Beyond and Calling All Explorers are trademarks of Alaska Airlines, Inc. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners.

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calendar

From left: Rosy Simas: We Wait in Darkness, March 19| Broadway on the Beach, March 28

Rosy Simas: We Wait in Darkness Castle Theater, MACC Choreographer Rosy Simas, recipient of the 2013 Native Arts & Cultures Foundation dance fellowship, delves into her grandmother’s Seneca culture and its matrilineal society in this performance. 7:30 p.m.

Sleep with the Sharks Maui Ocean Center An overnighter at Maui’s aquarium for small fry and their parents. (See Arts & Leisure page 28.)

Legends & Ghosts of Hawai‘i McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Lopaka Kapanui weaves tales of Old Hawai‘i. 7:30 p.m. (See Arts & Leisure page 28.)

Persian Home Cooking Class Join Chef Paris Nabavi in his Nāpili home as he prepares family recipes passed along for generations.

Requested donation: $100 per guest. Proceeds benefit Grow Some Good’s school-garden programs. ChefNabavi.com

Kūpaoa McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Nā Hōkū Hanohano Award-winning duo Kellen Paik and Līhau Hannahs Paik perform original songs and old favorites. 7:30 p.m.

Maui Pops Goes to the Ballet Castle Theater, MACC The Maui Pops Orchestra and dancers from the Maui Academy of Performing Arts present the comic ballet Coppelia. 3 p.m.

THROUGH MAR 22

Schaefer Portrait Challenge Schaefer International Gallery, MACC This statewide juried exhibition happens every three

years, as some of Hawai‘i’s finest artists capture the personalities and stories that shape island culture.

THROUGH MAR 25

Hawai‘i Contemporary Show: Insights and Explorations Viewpoints Gallery New works by seven women who are influencing Maui’s contemporary art scene.

Broadway on the Beach Aloha Aku Beachfront Estate, Kīhei Maui OnStage presents a sneak peek of its 2015– 2016 season with entertainment, food, and cocktails served oceanfront. 5–9 p.m. Tickets: 244-8680 or MauiOnStage.com

Swim & Fin Kīhei Aquatics Center Swimmers of all ages are invited to this benefit for the Special Olympics Maui swim team. Entries are due March 15. For details, contact Toni Rojas at 344-8880 or Toni@ToniRojas.com.

New York Polyphony Castle Theater, MACC This acclaimed classical vocal quartet presents a repertoire ranging from austere medieval melodies to cutting-edge contemporary compositions. 3 p.m.

Fantasia Ball Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali Hosted by Imua Family Services, this popular gala helps fund therapeutic services for children with disabilities. Enjoy a cocktail reception, fashion experience, live and silent auctions, and entertainment, beginning at 6 p.m. Then join Fantasia After Dark, with DJ beats until 2 p.m. Tickets and details at ImuaFamilyServices.org

–MAY 3

Art Maui Schaefer International Gallery, MACC Maui’s longest-running juried competition celebrates its 37th year of showcasing work by the island’s artists. Opening reception April 4.

–MAY 3

Featured Artists Lahaina Arts Society’s Old Jail Gallery Ceramist Bob Hoenig and watercolorist Victoria Wundram present their works. Wundram demonstrates

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MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER; MAUI ONSTAGE; MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

APRIL

Volatility Creates

OPPORTUNITY Are you benefitting from the current market fluctuations? At FIM Group we embrace volatility while working to capitalize on opportunities created by it.

Left: Shoyu on Rice, April 24–25 | Art Maui, April 5–May 3

Tuesdays in April in the Old Jail Gallery, 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Hoenig demonstrates the technique of sgrafitto in the Banyan Tree Gallery, April 12 & 19, 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

Ed Dowd, MBA, Portfolio Management Hayley Wood, CFP®, Financial Planner

Barry Hyman, MBA, Hawaii Branch Manager Alice McDermott, CFP®, Senior Planner John Bresnahan, Portfolio Management

Valley Isle Keiki Fest University of Hawai‘i–Maui College Great Lawn This free festival features games, entertainment, contests, a food court, and more. Sponsored by the Kiwanis Club of the Valley Isle. For details, email keikifest@gmail.com.

444 Hana Highway, Suite D, Kahului, Hawaii 96732 808 871 1006 | Toll-free 888 243 8220 fimg-hawaii@fimg.net | www.fimg.net

Empty Bowl Project Location TBD Sip, slurp, and savor at this intimate dinner fundraiser for Maui Food Bank and Hale Maha‘olu senior housing. Attendees will receive a signature bowl created by Maui Organization for the Ceramic Arts (MOCA). Space is limited. 5:30 p.m. Hosted by Star Noodle and MOCA. StarNoodle.com

Moloka‘i Earth Day Celebration Mitchell Pauole Center, Kaunakakai Enjoy live entertainment, educational displays, food, and prizes at this event that honors the environment. 5–9 p.m. 808-553-5236.

17-18

Chinese Kite Festival View traditional and modern handmade kites, and watch an aerial display. (See Arts & Leisure page 29.)

Ho‘omau Concert Lanikeha Center, Ho‘olehua This benefit for Pūnana Leo O Moloka‘i Hawaiian immersion school features live music, crafts, food booths, and keiki (children’s) games. 808-567-9211.

with one of Expeditions eco-friendly, USCG certified, daily cruises. Snorkel, Hike, Drive, Golf or just Lounge on Lana‘i with Expeditions!

Play the “Manele Golf Course” or the “Koele Golf Course”* on Lana‘i Golf Packages include roundtrip transportation from Lahaina on Expeditions, ground transportation on Lana‘i and golf at either course.

Lahaina Harbor Departs for Lana‘i at

Manele Harbor Departs for Maui at

6:45 am • 9:15 am • 12:45 pm 3:15 pm • 5:45 pm

8:00 am • 10:30 am • 2:00 pm 4:30 pm • 6:45 pm

–MAY 10

MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

Brighton Beach Memoirs Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui OnStage presents part one of Neil Simon’s autobiographical trilogy—growing up with his family in 1937 in a crowded Brooklyn walk-up. Fridays & Saturdays 7:30 p.m. Sundays 3 p.m.

Maui Dinner Project Montessori School of Maui 2933 Baldwin Ave., Makawao Isaac Bancaco of Ka‘ana Kitchen, ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards’ 2014 Chef of the Year, prepares an intimate four-course dinner with wine pairings by Sommelier Greg Shepherd. Proceeds benefit Montessori School of Maui. Tickets: $175 per person; space is limited. Momi.org

Maalaea route temporarily suspended • *Koele Golf Course closed for renovations

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar-Apr 2015

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calendar Imua Family Services and OnMaui! Magazine proudly present

SHOSHANA BEAN LIVE IN CONCERT Known for her starring roles in Broadway’s Wicked and Hairspray, Shoshana has topped the R&B and blues charts with her solo releases. Saturday, April 4, 2015 at 7:30pm ‘A‘ali‘ikuhonua Creative Arts Center at Seabury Hall 480 Olinda Road, Makawao

‘AIPONO WINE DINNER The Wines of Piedmont Capische? Hotel Wailea 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea Friday, April 10 Chef Chris Kulis prepares a special menu paired with the wines of Piedmont, often called “the Burgundy of Italy.” Sponsored by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi in collaboration with Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, ‘Aipono Wine Dinners benefit Maui Culinary Academy. Reception 6 p.m. Dinner 6:30 p.m. $125. Reservations: 879-2224

24-25

Shoyu on Rice McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Kumu Kahua Theatre presents this story about highschool students whose Pidgin English runs into conflict with a substitute teacher from Kansas, and her own struggles in the classroom and with the parents of her Japanese-American fiancé. 7:30 p.m.

24-26

Maui Hawaiian Steel Guitar Festival Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali This three-day event brings together master steelguitar players and aficionados from around the world. MauiSteelGuitarFestival.com

Ha‘ikū Ho‘olaule‘a & Flower Festival Plants and fresh-cut flowers for sale, live entertainment and more. (See Arts & Leisure page 27.)

Ka‘iwi Channel Relay Moloka‘i to O‘ahu This one-man canoe race starts at Kaluako‘i Resort on Moloka‘i and ends 39 miles later at Outrigger Canoe Club in Waikīkī. HawaiiPaddling.com

25-26

Art of Kapa Viewpoints Gallery Visiting artist Dalani Tanahy presents a hands-on class. (See Arts & Leisure page 30.)

Pa‘a Ke Aupuni McCoy Studio Theater, MACC This one-hour animated video explores the history of the Hawaiian Kingdom. Q&A follows. 3 p.m.

Sierra Leon’s Refugee All-Stars Castle Theater, MACC This “blend of West African party grooves, roots reggae, gospel and brass [is] guaranteed to put a smile on your face.”—NPR’s Banning Eyre. 7:30 p.m.

MAY

Brothers Cazimero Lei Day Concert Castle Theater, MACC The Brothers Cazimero return for this annual showcase of contemporary Hawaiian music and hula. 7:30 p.m.

2-3

OluKai Ho‘olaule‘a Kanahā Beach Park, Kahului SUP and OC1 paddlers race the eight-mile Māliko Bay “downwinder.” Back on dry land, activities celebrate Hawai‘i’s ocean culture. Olukai.com/hoolaulea

4, 6, 8, 10

Maui Classical Music Festival These chamber-music concerts happen around Maui County. Schedule at MauiClassicalMusicFestival.org.

4-31

Featured Artist Lahaina Arts Society’s Old Jail Gallery Photographer John O’Leary’s exhibit Global Getaways through the Eyes of a Marine Biologist explores tropical destinations above and below the surface.

Paddle Imua Hawaiian Canoe Club Hoaloha Park, Kahului This race from Māliko Gulch to Hawaiian Canoe Club benefits Camp Imua. After, athletes take special-needs kids on the water. 10 a.m.–6 p.m. PaddleImua.com

Visitor Industry Charity Walk War Memorial Complex Kanaloa & Ka‘ahumanu Avenues, Kahului Maui Hotel & Lodging Association’s biggest annual fundraiser, the 5K course winds through Kahului, starting at 7 a.m. MauiHLA.org

Email your event to Calendar@MauiMagazine.net, or visit MauiMagazine.net/Calendar and scroll down to “Submit New Event” to post it online. Listings for MNKO’s May–June print edition must be received by March 13. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.

Tickets now available online: $30 - $40 / student price: $25 A BENEFIT CONCERT FOR I M U A FA M I LY S E RV I C E S

www.imuafamilyservices.org

808 244 7467

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RETAIL GUIDE

Stores featured in “Elements of Style,” page 46 22 Knots Four Seasons Resort Maui, 874-8000 Biasa Rose 104 Hāna Hwy, Pā‘ia, 579-8602 Cabana Four Seasons Resort, 874-8000 Caché The Shops at Wailea, 874-6163, Cache.com Dusty James w Bolyard HAIR, DustyJamesBolyard.com Four Seasons Resort Maui 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr, Wailea, 874-8000, FourSeasons. com/maui Hayhay Couture HayhayCouture.com Hildgund Four Seasons Resort Maui, 874-5800, Hildgund.com Imrie 93 Hāna Hwy, Pā‘ia, 579-8303, ImrieOnline.com Indigo Paia 149 Hāna Hwy, Pā‘ia, 579-9199, IndigoPaia.com Maggie Coulombe Whalers Village, 344-6672, MaggieCoulombe.com Mahina 23 Baldwin Ave, Pā‘ia, 579-9131 • 335 Keawe St, Lahaina, 661-0383 • The Shops at Wailea, 868-4717 • 1913-B S. Kīhei Rd, Kīhei, 879-3453; MahinaMaui.com Nuage Bleu 76 Hāna Hwy, Pā‘ia, 579-9792, NuageBleu.com Pearl Butik 71 Baldwin Ave, Pā‘ia, 579-8899, PearlButik.com Ry-n Shimabuku MAKEUP, Ry-nShimabuku.com The Shops at Wailea 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr, Wailea, TheShopsAtWailea.com Tamara Catz 83 Hāna Hwy, Pā‘ia, 579-9184, TamaraCatz.com Whalers Village 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy, Kā‘anapali, WhalersVillage.com

I U A M

The Largest Selection of Oceanfront Vacation Condominiums Lahaina • Ka’anapali • Kahana • Napili • Kapalua

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Dinner Project

855-836-0619 855-836-0619

5/9/11 5/9/11 8:51 8:51 AM AM

FRIDAY, APRIL 24 • 6–9 PM featuring Chef Isaac Bancanco of Ka‘ana Kitchen

Join us for an Tickets are $175 per person. exquisite fourThanks to the course meal with generosity of our chef and artfully selected an underwriter, wine pairings, 100% of the ticket presented by one price supports of Maui’s top an enriching Montessori chefs and served education for next to the garden young people classroom on 18 months through the 8th grade. our campus. 2933 Baldwin Avenue, Makawao | 808.573.0374 | momi.org Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Mar-Apr 2015

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who’s who

L to R: Jack Gray & Carolyn Schaefer Gray | Judy Bisgard, Inger Tully, Cheryl Tipton | Ed & Sally Baldwin | Clay Sutherland, Sandra Florence, Susan Sutherland

MIEKO HORIKOSHI

WAILEA FOOD & WINE CELEBRATION | Hotel Wailea | November 14, 2014 | Benefit for Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center

L to R: Clifford Nae‘ole & April Santos | Charlotte & Emiliano Ardo | Karen Streb & Tim Van Horn | Allyson Freeland, Tom Donovan, Kim Abrahamson, Charles Fredy | Knute & Patty Buehler

JOSE MORALES

SIP AND SAVOR | Grand Wailea Resort | November 21, 2014 | Benefit for UH–Maui Culinary Academy

L to R: James Poulan, Ed & Diane Lane | Pete & Jill Sullivan | Jim Milligan & Angie Gallardo | Cheryl Logsdon & Clarissa Logsdon | Chef Instructor Tom Lelli

JOSE MORALES

THE “FINAL” DINNER | December 10, 2014 | Leis Family Class Act Restaurant | Benefit for UH–Maui Culinary Academy

L to R: Colleen Cochlin, Matt & Elif Beall | Mariane Hannahs & Dr. Kimberly Moore | W.S. Merwin & Ted Clement | Ekolu Lindsey & Lisa Agdeppa | Ashley & Scott Carroll

Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at MauiMagazine.net/WhosWho.

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LLEVELLYN LIGHTSEY, LIGHTSEA IMAGES

MĀLAMA KĪPUKA: BUY BACK THE BEACH | Old Lahaina Lū‘au | January 24, 2015 | Benefit for Hawaiian Islands Land Trust

LIVE MUSIC AND FOOD TASTINGS THE THIRD WEDNESDAY OF EACH MONTH, 6:30 TO 8PM

presented by

You are invited to shop, sample, and enjoy a special musical performance by local artists. Tasty menu samplings, mini-makeovers, artist demonstrations, entertainment and moreâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;just for you. Free and open to the public.

3750 Wailea Alanui Drive . Visit us online for monthly updates . theshopsatwailea.com . 808.891.6770 .

liddo bitta tita! ILLUSTRATION BY MATT FOSTER

always sell out, but, lucky fo’ us, dey show da whole t’ing on TV. Da Merrie Monarch is da numbah one, ichiban (dass “numbah one” in Japanee) hula festavoh in da whole world, kinda like da Olympics of hula. But you know, nevah start out li’dat. In fack, da firs’ few Merrie Monarch Festavohs nevah have hula at all. Da originoh plan was fo’ make one big town party in Hilo, fo’ attrack tourists to da Big Island. So, couple Hawai‘i County officials wen’ come visit Maui, fo’ check out da Lahaina Whaling Spree. Da firs’ Whaling Spree was Septembah 1962, t’ree days of contests an’ entertainment an’ exhibits, all focused on da days when Lahaina was one mayjah port’a call fo’ da whaling ships. Da beard contes’ was da mos’ populah event, an’ guys would come from all ovah da state fo’ entah in one a da cata-gories and hopefully win da grand prize. Had muttonchops and handoh-bars and sideburns and Fu Manchus. Our formah guv’nah an’ congressman, Neil Abercrombie, was one a da winnahs in da very first beard contest. Da parade was one big deal, too, wit’ fancy kine floats an’ costumes an’ all. Richard Boone, from da TV show Have Gun, Will Travel, was da grand marshal in 1966. He was one a da Hollywood guys who wen’ buy one house on Maui back in da early days, befo’ da res’ a da world wen’ find out about us. Da guys who wen’ make da Spree ev’ry year, dey wanted fo’ pay tribute to da days when Lahaina was da busiest town in da islands, so they wen’ plan all kine historical recreations like boat races, cutlass fights, even firing da cannons by da courthouse. But by da early seventies, mos’ guys was only int’rested in acking like da old-time sailors. Which meant getting drunk an’ rowdy in da streets. So, aftah only ten years or so, da Whaling Spree wen’ get harpooned. Da Merrie Monarch guys nevah like see their festavoh come li’dat, so dey wen’ add high-class hula compa-tition an’ education. An’ dass what dey been doing fo’ da past forty-t’ree years. Much mo’ civilized dan public drunkenness, an’ way mo’ appropriate fo’ da week aftah Eastah. Shoots, too bad we nevah t’ink a dat mo’ first.

Da Rites of Spree-ing? Small kid time, my favorite Sunday of da year was Eastah at Po‘okela Church in Makawao. Po‘okela is one a da oldes’ churches on Maui, from 1843. Was one all-Hawaiian congra-gation back den, so da services was prob’ly all in ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i (Hawaiian language). So, insteadah Eastah Sunday, da guys wen’ cela-brate Ka lā i ala hou ai ka Haku (da day da Lord wen’ rise again). Dass what da Hawaiian Pradastents call ‘em. Da Cat’lics use da word Pakoa, fo’ Passovah. Anyways, my maddah would take out my straw hat from da box in da closet, so I could wear ‘em in da kids’ Eastah parade, an’ we would drive Upcountry in da dark, fo’ go sunrise service. Da church ladies would make hot cross buns an’ cocoa, an’ aftah da big Eastah egg hunt, we would eat’ em wit’ da eggs we wen’ find. Back den, da Eastah bunny nevah bring plastic eggs wit’ money or candy inside; da buggah only leave hard-boiled eggs for us. But dass OK, was ‘ono (delicious). Nowadays, when Eastah comin’ up, I t’ink mo’ about hula dan hot cross buns. Dass ‘cause ev’ry year, da week aftah Eastah, get da Merrie Monarch Festavoh in Hilo. Da festavoh run all week long, but da main event, da hula compa-tition, is da las’ t’ree days. Da tickets

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KATHY COLLINS (a.k.a. Tita) is an actress, storyteller

and radio personality. Like Tita, Ms. Collins grew up on Maui. Hear Tita read her column out loud at MauiMagazine.net.