Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine Jul-Aug 2015

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VIEWS, BREWS & SMOKIN’ BARBECUES

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S E H C A E B T BES

OUR READERS PICK THE

CLASSIC BEACH HOUSE

Two architects restore an old beauty

MORE THAN GREAT FOOD

Restaurants with stunning views

WINNING CULTURE

Canoe club surges ahead using lessons from the past

JUL-AUG ‘15 US/CAN $4.95

MOUNTAIN BIKING Blaze a trail in this ultimate 80-acre park

MauiMagazine.net

OYSTER PERPETUAL YACHT-MASTER II

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Dress and shoes by Tommy Bahama; Bag by Louis Vuitton; All jewelry by Folli Follie; Makeup at Cos Bar; Food image by Longhi's; Drink image by Tommy Bahama.

More than 70 of the finest names in style, art, cuisine and services including Louis Vuitton . Gucci . Bottega Veneta . BCBGMAXAZRIA . Tommy Bahama . Baron & Leeds Tiffany & Co. . L’Occitane . Cos Bar . Folli Follie . Banana Republic . Quiksilver Honolulu Cookie Company . Longhi’s . Ruth’s Chris Steak House real estate services . notable galleries and more 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive . Open Daily . theshopsatwailea.com . 808.891.6770 .

“Its authenticity, intimacy, hospitality, cultural integrity and sheer romantic beauty have made this Maui’s top lu¯‘au.”

F r o m m e r ’s M a u i

H awa i i M a g a z i n e

“This is the best lu¯‘au on Maui.

I rate it the best in the state.”

Featured in:

Emeril Live National Geographic Traveler New York Times The Travel Channel K a h i l i A wa r d s

1999 “Show”, 2000 “Attraction” Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau

Voted “Best Lu¯‘au”by Maui Residents Zagat Sur vey

“Excellent” “Extraordinary to Perfection”

For Reser ved Seats Call

(808)667- 0700 To l l f r e e

(800)248-5828 www.oldlahainaluau.com 1251 Front Street, La¯haina Along the ocean in Historic La¯haina Town

MAUI Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea 808.874.5800 OAHU The Kahala Hotel & Resort · Halekulani HAWAII Mauna Lani Bay Hotel Four Seasons Resort at Hualalai Mauna Kea Beach Hotel

www.hildgund.com

features

Cove Park in Kīhei is an ocean playground no matter your choice of watercraft. Our readers voted it the best beach for . . . find out on page 38. Photo by Bob Bangerter

34 maui style

MAUI’S BEST BEACHES

about our cover Believe in love at first sight? You may after visiting Hāmoa Beach in Hāna, named Most Romantic Beach in our Best Beaches poll. Turn to page 34 and discover a sandy spot that fits your mood. Photo by Bob Bangerter

Our readers chose their favorites. By Kyle Ellison

42 adventure

BLAZING SADDLES A pioneer in extreme mountain biking creates an outdoor playground designed for fun. By Lehia Apana

50 malama ‘āina

A SNAIL’S PACE On the slow but steady trail of Hawai‘i’s endangered mollusks. By Shannon Wianecki

56 hawaiian soul

KEEPING CULTURE AFLOAT Maui’s winningest canoe club is borrowing lessons from the past to surge ahead. By Matthew Thayer

64 at home

TAKEN ON FAITH Husband-and-wife architects resurrect a vintage house once owned by St. Theresa’s. By Heidi Pool

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departments 16 publisher’s note 18 talk story

by Diane Haynes Woodburn

Fresh off the coconut wireless ~ By Teri Freitas Gorman, Lehia Apana & Shannon Wianecki

24 great finds 27 arts & leisure

Use your charm ~ Compiled by Conn Brattain

Our picks for where to go, what to do ~ Compiled by Sarah Ruppenthal

104 calendar of events 110 who’s who 114 liddo bitta tita

What’s happening where, when and with whom

Seen making the scene on Maui

Our local authority gets the last word.

By Kathy Collins

Beans, barbecue and lip-smacking flavors at Fat Daddy’s—and we have the recipes! See page 92. Photo by Nina Kuna

 THIS ISSUE ONLINE

Web-exclusive content at MauiMagazine.net (available beginning in July) DO TRY THIS AT HOME Fleetwood’s on Front St.— which tied for this year’s Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Bar—shares a DIY lime and coconut cocktail recipe that’s just in time for summer. Find it at MauiMagazine.net/ FleetwoodsMixology.

ALONG FOR THE RIDE Hold on tight as we explore Maui’s newest mountain biking playground. Watch the video at MauiMagazine.net/BlazingSaddles THIS JUST IN! Visit our online calendar for updates around Maui County.

EH, LIKE LISTEN? Tita’s column stay mo’ bettah when she reads ‘em out loud.

RED CARPET TREATMENT Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo at MauiMagazine.net/WhosWho and pin it to your Pinterest board or share it on Facebook.

LET’S GET SOCIAL ....................................................................

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Twitter.com/MauiMag

Pinterest.com/MauiMagazine

Instagram.com/MauiMag

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DINING

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78 dining feature

SOMETHING’S BREWING It’s been a decade since Garrett Marrero and Melanie Oxley first put Maui on the craft brewery map. Their latest project has heads turning yet again. By Becky Speere

87 dining highlights

RESTAURANTS WITH A VIEW 5 venues to improve your dining outlook

By Becky Speere

92 chef ’s kitchen

SMOKEY & THE BEAN Chef Chris Schobel’s homestyle recipes make his Kīhei restaurant smokin’ hot. By Becky Speere

94 dining guide

A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island

On Maui we have a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is indeed the best.” We hope you think so, too.

What’s in your beach bag?

PUBLISHER Diane Haynes Woodburn SENIOR EDITOR Rita Goldman MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana

A Ziploc bag to keep sand and sunscreen off my iPhone. The touch screen still functions through the plastic.

DINING EDITOR Becky Speere ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER John Giordani STYLE EDITOR Conn Brattain WEBSITE MANAGER

Adelle Lennox

ASSISTANT DESIGNER Shelby Lynch STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Nina Kuna

I wouldn’t be a true Maui girl if I didn’t have at least one pāreu (sarong) in my beach bag at all times.

A cotton Turkish towel.

It’s light and wonderful to lie on, plus you can also wear it! I love double-duty things.

EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Jose Morales CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Kathy Collins, Kyle Ellison, Teri Freitas Gorman, Heidi Pool, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere, Matthew Thayer, Peter von Buol, Shannon Wianecki

The book No Mākou ka Mana: Liberating the Nation by Kamana Beamer, who has meticulously researched Native Hawaiian leadership in the face of massive cultural change as demonstrated by the ali‘i (chiefs).

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Doc Martin’s sunscreen because it’s made by a Maui dermatologist, is marine safe to help protect our reefs, and is hyper waterproof so it won’t get in your eyes.

Lehia Apana, Bob Bangerter, Conn Brattain, Michelle Cerizo, Jochen Gerber, John Giordani, Hayes & Yeung, Sue Hudelson, Peter Liu, Shelby Lynch, Johann Meya, Jason Moore, Dave Nakama, Ryan Siphers, Matthew Thayer CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR Matt Foster CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION

Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. ADVERTISING SALES 808-242-8331 DIRECTOR OF SALES Laura Lewark ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

Michael Haynes CONTROLLER & OFFICE MANAGER

Kao Kushner SUBSCRIPTION MANAGER

Andre Mueller NEWSSTAND SALES & CIRCULATION

When I get out of the water my hair goes crazy, so I always bring a travel-size bottle of Acure’s organic leave-in conditioner.

Subscription inquiries toll free: 844-808-MAUI or visit Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net NATIONAL MagNet, Disticor Magazine Distribution Services

My parents emigrated from Germany and Switzerland, and my wife’s ancestors are also from Germany.

Therefore, the one thing we absolutely must bring to the beach is sunscreen.

HAWAI‘I MagNet IN-ROOM Maui Circulation E-MAIL ADDRESS Info@MauiMagazine.net

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, & The Shops at Wailea magazines 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; 808-242-8331. ©2015 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly U.S. subscriptions $21; Canadian subscriptions $29; foreign subscriptions $40. Payable in U.S. currency. Canadian Post Publication Mail Agreement 41458020, undeliverables 2-7496 Bath Road, Mississauga, Ontario L4T 1L2. MauiMagazine.net Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi—an environmental leader in the industry whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

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Greenleaf Diamonds

The Shops at Wailea 808.874.1118

publisher’s note Beach Baby . . . At Any Age

Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

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TOP: NINA KUNA

By the time you read this I will be sixty-five. No kidding.

When I turned sixty years old, it was a big deal. It was exciting. I felt as if I were embarking on a great new adventure. Just before my launch into becoming a sexagenarian (gotta love that word) I recall researching the meaning of turning sixty. I found a wealth of literature. In Eastern cultures, sixty years of age is the completion of the astrological rotation—as we return to the sign under which we were born, life comes full circle. Some say it is the second childhood; the Chinese welcome a rebirth; others celebrate sixty as the beginning of the age of wisdom.

But what about sixy-five? Zero. Nada. Zilch. I scoured the Internet and asked Google for words of wisdom on turning sixty-five. I found a how-to source for “interviewing an old person.” That, and Medicare. Medicare is ubiquitous—it fills my mailbox, floods my email, and I’m even getting texts from my HMO with seductive invitations to join . . . or die.

I understand why sixty-five is so much older than sixty. I do. Turning sixty is just a tiny footstep from fifty-nine. At sixty, you are just dipping your big toe into the game of aging, still the youngest kid in Club Sexagenarian, so to speak. And you look great (for sixty.) Everyone says so.

But then, something goes terribly wrong. A small but discernable tire seems to lodge itself securely around ones’ midsection. It inflates and deflates a bit with exercise and diet, but like some sort of life alert device, it’s always there. And it weighs exactly five pounds.

Because of the tire I cannot button the jeans I wore to my sixtieth birthday party. I know that because I tried last night. I’ve found it possible to add to the five pounds (the tire is certainly inflatable), but one cannot lose the five pounds. Keep the pounds or the world will implode. Every woman over sixty knows this—heroically, we are doing our best to preserve life on Earth as we know it.

That’s a good thing, because there is still a lotta livin’ to do. And believe me, we of a certain age know how, even if Google hasn’t caught on quite yet. And summer is the perfect time to do it.

So grab that inflatable tire (innerwear or outer), and hit the beach with Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi. In this, our Best Beaches issue, we asked you to tell us your favorites, helping us whittle down the top picks in four categories: finest spot for people watching, most romantic setting, best facilities, and where to paddle out if you’re just learning to surf. Let’s do it.

And don’t forget the beer. Dry off and head inland to Maui Brewing Company, a local business that has put our island on the craft brewery map. Take the tour with Dining Editor Becky Speere through the $18 million facility, equip with a state-of-the-art brewhaus and tasting room with thirty-two beers on tap.

This issue is filled with adventures for lovers of the outdoors young or old. Whether it’s releasing your inner child along an eighty-acre mountain biking playground, exploring our forests while searching for a mythical singing snail, or booking a table at some of the most picturesque spots on Maui, you’ll find out where and how in these pages.

No matter what your age (or mine), there is a beautiful new adventure awaiting you under the Maui sun. Get to the beach with someone you love and flaunt your stuff—the water is fine! (Floation devices welcome.)

Mahalo, Maui, for opening your arms and allowing me to make my home in your warmth and aloha for the past forty-one years. Looking forward to a few more wonder-filled decades in your embrace.

A hui hou! (Until we meet again!)

talk story FRESH OFF THE COCONUT WIRELESS

Portuguese Horseshoes You may see it at the beach or a friend’s backyard: two players take turns tossing large metal washers at a pair of wooden boxes. The game is Portuguese Horseshoes. My late grandfather João Pereira de Freitas was a Makawao blacksmith, so I am uniquely qualified to attest that Portuguese Horseshoes is neither Portuguese, nor does it involve horseshoes.

While variations of the game are played elsewhere as “washer toss,” veteran Honolulu competitor Daniel Ikaika Ito says that here in the Islands it was devised to circumvent publicpark regulations that forbid driving stakes into the ground for traditional horseshoes games. Island ingenuity

swapped stakes for wooden boxes with backstops and a hole on top, and horseshoes for metal washers. Nobody knows who played the first game, or where or when, but like humongous coolers, rice cookers and blue tarps, Portuguese Horseshoes are mandatory gear for local parties these days.

Ito describes it as “a blue-collar, beerdrinking, pau hana [after work] game that is fun for all ages.”

The rules are simple—and may vary depending on who’s playing. If a washer makes it onto a box top, the team scores one point, two points if the washer ends up hovering over the puka (hole), and three points for a hole-inone. If a player’s washer lands on top of

It’s a Toss Up

their opponent’s hole-in-one, the tosser collects those points. The first team to amass twenty-one points wins. If you can get a washer to land on and stay atop the backstop, you automatically win. “I’ve been playing the game for fifteen years and I’ve only seen this happen twice,” says Ito. But why is it Portuguese (or “Podagee” in local vernacular)? “The same reason a dollop of mayonnaise in a chili-and-rice bowl is called ‘Podagee mac salad,’” Ito says with a shrug.

I’m not sure I’d call this an explanation, but that’s okay. We local people love Portuguese sausage, sweet bread, and bean soup. Now we can add horseshoes.—Teri Freitas Gorman

AUTOMATIC WIN

LEANER 2 PTS

ON THE BOX 1 PT

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CANCELS OPPONENT’S POINT MauiMagazine.net

RING OVERLAPS WITH PUKA 2 PTS

SHELBY LYNCH

IN THE PUKA 3 PTS

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SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS

Enjoy the hospitality of Maui’s plantation era at the historic Pioneer Inn on Lahaina Harbor.

Plenty of Places to Shop with over 14 Retailers ∏ Restaurants South Pacific Island Art

Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar

Whalers General Store

Best Western Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina (808) 661-3636 www.pioneerinnmaui.com

A Day in the Life

talk story

NAME: Tamara Paltin, Ocean Safety Officer GOING WITH THE FLOW: Tamara smiles when I ask what her typical workday is like. The short answer: no such thing. Sometimes it’s racing to a struggling snorkeler or retrieving a swimmer being yanked to sea by a rip current. Other times it’s treating jellyfish stings or educating beachgoers about unseen dangers.

“What I like most about working at the beach is our interaction with the weather and how dramatically the conditions affect our day,” says Tamara, who is stationed at D.T. Fleming Beach Park in Kapalua.

“I’ve worked at this beach for years, but I know that I still haven’t experienced the entire range of conditions.”

BEACH BODY: The duties of the department are as varied as the elements, and include keeping watch from lookout towers, responding via jet skis and preventing accidents.

When your body is your most important tool of the trade, injuries are bound to happen, even for the most experienced lifeguards. For Tamara, who has been an ocean safety officer since 1997, that’s meant two broken knuckles, a torn anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) in her knee, and a sprained ankle.

Risky Business TROUBLED WATERS: Maui’s ocean lifeguards’ jurisdiction spans well beyond the shallow confines of the shoreline, and Tamara says the rising popularity of standup-paddle boards (SUP) has complicated an already busy job.

“We’re going out almost daily for these SUP calls, just collecting people nonstop. It’s a bit of an epidemic.”

LOST AND FOUND: During one training session, the instructor outfitted a manikin with weight belts and dropped it into an ocean current. Due to poor visibility, the lifeguards spent nearly the entire day searching for the manikin, but no luck.

“A couple weeks later, when the water cleared up, my partner and I noticed something strange in the shore break,” recalls Tamara.

“Before I know it he runs off the tower, kicks off his slippers and jumps in. He comes out holding the arm of the manikin, yelling ‘I found it!’

Everyone on the beach was confused and we were just cracking up.”

SEA STARS: Tamara has been training prospective lifeguards through Hawai‘i’s Junior Lifeguard program for more than a decade.

Like a proud mama, she shares stories of rescues by former students who stepped in when nobody else could. “Someone is alive because of what these people learned in Junior Lifeguard,” she says. “The more kids we’re able to teach about ocean safety, the more lifeguards we have out and about everywhere.”—Lehia Apana

JASON MOORE

En garde!

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In Season

talk story

Hurricane Season Central Pacific Hurricanes

by Month from 1971 to 2014

Hawai‘i’s official hurricane season runs from June to November.

That’s when the ingredients for monster storms combine: warm oceans, abundant atmospheric moisture, and relatively light winds. If persistent, these conditions can form low-pressure systems, resulting in violent rotating winds, incredible waves, and torrential rains. And according to the Central Pacific Hurricane Center’s records, August is by far the biggest month for these events.

When wind speeds reach 39 mph, the spinning squall is called a tropical storm. When the winds race past 74 mph, it’s officially a hurricane. The Hawaiian Islands are less vulnerable to hurricanes than archipelagos in the South Pacific, because the waters surrounding Hawai‘i tend to be cooler. It’s also possible that our tall volcanic peaks break apart storms.

Still, we’ve weathered our share of tempests. The worst on record: Hurricane ‘Iniki. On September 11, 1992, sustaining winds of 115 mph roared across the 50th State. ‘Iniki devastated the island of Kaua‘i, killed six people, and left an estimated $2.3 billion of damage in its wake.

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JAN

MAR APR

JUN

JUL

AUG

SEP

OCT

NOV

DEC

Prior to the invention of modern weather instruments, Hawaiian mariners predicted storms by reading environmental clues: changes in the wind, sea, clouds, and animal behavior. Halos around the moon, sea snails disappearing deep into crevices, intensified scents, and pig-shaped clouds lining up against the mountainside are all signs of foul weather. One Hawaiian proverb warns: Ua ho‘i ka noio ‘au kai i uka, ke ‘ino nei ka moana. “The seafaring noio bird returns to land, for a storm rages at sea.” So, if you notice noio (black noddies) or other seabirds soaring inland—especially in August—batten down the hatches.—Shannon Wianecki

T OP: COURTESY EARTH.NULLSCHOOL.NET; GRAPH: SHELBY LYNCH

Top: Like something from a Vincent van Gogh painting, this 2014 wind map shows hurricanes Iselle, Julio, and Genevieve barrelling across Hawai‘i. Above: Palm trees bend like toothpicks in the high winds.

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 GREAT FINDS 

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2 1 5

Use Your Charm

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Hang on to your Maui memories with these sea worthy keepsakes.

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COMPILED BY CONN BRATTAIN

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Best of Maui 2014: Best Home Furnishings

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Rise and Shine Gold-dipped Hawaiian sunrise shell on 14k gold-fill chain, starting at $140 by Kamera Jewelry at Otaheite, 10 Wailea Gateway, 419-6179 and KameraJewelry.com

Voted by the readers of MauiTime Weekly

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Golden Opportunity 13mm golden South Sea pearl and diamond pendant on triple strand 18k yellow gold chain by Yoko London.

Price on request at Baron & Leeds, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā'anapali Pkwy., 661-6806; BaronAndLeeds.com

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Deep Blue Sterling silver and sapphire Kai Honu pendant, $736 (chain sold separate) by and at Lambros Gallery, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., 891-2100

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Cameo Apperance Hawaiian sunset engraved on a vintage cameo shell with14k gold fill chain, $154 by RueBelle at Indigo Paia, 149 Hāna Hwy., 579-8303; IndigoPaia.com

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Creature Comfort Sterling silver tako (octopus) necklace, $110 by and at Sophie Grace Maui, 36 Baldwin Ave., 579-8560, and poolside at Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr.; SophieGraceMaui.com

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Ray to Go14k gold-plated manta ray necklace by Keani Jewelry, $80 at Collections, 3677 Baldwin Ave., 572-0781; CollectionsMauiInc.com and KeaniJewelry.com

210 Alamaha Street, Kahului • 808.873.6910 • mauihue.com

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A Touch of Glass Blue sea glass in a variety of hues, shapes and sizes, all dipped in 18k gold, $120 by and at KeaniJewelry.com

8 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12: CONN BRATTAIN; 3: LAMBROS GALLERY; 8; NINA KUNA; 13: NA HOKU

Small Wonder14k gold-plated Hawaiian ‘opihi-shell necklace, $31 by and at NinaKuna.com

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Make a Splash 14k yellow gold and opal whale tail pendant, $1,669 by and at Greenleaf Diamonds, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., 874-1118

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Super Natural The Hawaiian Luna necklace is mother-of-pearl and 18k rose gold, and features a diamond wave pattern.

Price on request by and at Hildgund at Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., 874-5800; Hildgund.com

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Water Wear The Maui Ocean pendant mimmicks the ripples of the sea in amazonite with white topaz overlay and diamond border. Price on request by and at Hildgund, 874-5800; Hildgund.com

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Bite Size Gold-dipped fossilzed shark tooth necklace by Jasmine Honey Designs, $120 at Pearl Butik, 71 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8899; PearlButik.com, JasmineHoney.

BigCartel.com

808 276 2764 waterlilymaui.com

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Circle of Sealife 14k yellow gold Reeflife Bracelet with diamond accent, $2,499, by and at NaHoku.com Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul-Aug 2015

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presents the

‘aipono wine dinner series The ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series brings you fine wines paired with superb cuisine at surprisingly reasonable prices. Proceeds benefit UH-Maui Culinary Academy.

To sign up for the ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series mailing list, visit MauiMagazine.net or call 808.242.8331.

An exquisite wine showcase created by Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants

DRINK | LEARN | EAT | SUPPORT The next wine dinner will be hosted by:

The theme for the dinner will be:

The Wines of France Ka‘ana Kitchen 3550 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea Friday, August 21 Reception 6:30–9:30 p.m.

Call for reservations: 243-1234 For menu, visit MauiMagazine.net/AiponoDinners $125pp | $25 from each dinner goes to Maui Culinary Academy.

Andaz Maui Executive Chef Isaac Bancaco teams with Ka‘ana Kitchen Chef de Cuisine Ritchard Cariaga for a delicious culinary collaboration in the kitchen. Watch and be entertained as chefs cook it up right in front of you, then indulge with epicurean delights including passed appetizers, three interactive food stations and a dessert bar. Dishes will be paired with exceptional French wines chosen by Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers and Chambers Wine Merchants and Ka‘ana Kitchen Sommelier Jeff Groh. This exclusive food and wine experience is limited to thirty lucky diners. Don’t miss it!

Arts+Leisure JULY–AUGUST 2015

OUR PICKS FOR WHERE TO GO AND WHAT TO DO » COMPILED BY SARAH RUPPENTHAL

SHELBY LYNCH

Feather Lei Classes with Pattie Hanna

Feather lei were once worn by the ali‘i (Hawaiian royalty) to signify prestige and power.

Under the hands-on guidance of kumu (teacher) Aunty Pattie Hanna, you can learn the art of traditional and contemporary lei hulu—feather lei making. Beginning and advanced workshops are held Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays from noon to 9 p.m. Cost is $35 for a month’s worth of classes.

For details or to register, visit MauiFeatherLei.com.

(Also see “The Feather Lei,” MNKO, Nov–Dec 2009.)

Maui Feather Lei 58 Central Avenue, Wailuku Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul-Aug 2015

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Arts+Leisure

Picnic for Poki JULY 16 & AUGUST 20

This monthly outdoor concert honors the late Allen “Braddah Poki” Pokipala, a longtime Hawaiian musician and radio personality.

Affectionately known as the “Hawaiian Cruiser,” Braddah Poki was committed to sharing the musical repertoire of Hawai‘i. On the third Thursday of the month, local performers carry on his legacy as they entertain under the branches of the monkeypod tree fronting historic Ka‘ahumanu Church. The event is free. Pack a picnic lunch, bring a lawn chair and enjoy the sounds of Hawai‘i. 11 a.m.–12:30 p.m.

Ka‘ahumanu Church 103 S. High St., Wailuku

AUGUST 22 You never need an excuse to visit Hāna, but if you’re looking for the right occasion, mark August 22 on your calendar. Hāna Cultural Center’s annual Ho‘olaule‘a (celebration) showcases the rich cultural heritage of the sleepy East Maui town. A fundraiser for the center, this event comes with all the trimmings: food booths, hula performances, kapa-making demonstrations, traditional Hawaiian games, storytelling sessions, and live music

by Nā Hōkū Hanohano Award-winning slack-key and steel guitarist Owana Salazar. Look for the colorful tents on the grassy lot above Hāna Highway, just below the Hāna Ranch Store. Free admission. 9 a.m.–4 p.m.

Hāna Town HanaCulturalCenter.org

National Hot Dog Day JULY 23 According to the National Hot Dog & Sausage Council, Americans consume an estimated 20 billion hot dogs each year. If you’re part of that statistic (or if you have some catching up to do), July 23 is a day to relish. Fire up the backyard barbecue and grill your own, or take a trip to Fukushima’s in Ha‘ikū for one (or more) of the store’s famous hot dogs. 575-2762 Fukushima Store 815 Ha‘ikū Road, Ha‘ikū

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LEFT: SHELBY LYNCH; RIGHT: COURTESY PASIFIKA ARTISTS NETWORK; BOTTOM: JOHN GIORDANI

Hāna Ho‘olaule‘a

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Arts+Leisure

Leilani Farm Sanctuary Tour WEDNESDAYS & SATURDAYS Named in honor of Leilani, its first resident donkey, this sprawling, eight-acre sanctuary is home to hundreds of rescued farm animals and wildlife, including donkeys, goats, rabbits, geese, pigs, ducks, guinea pigs and tortoises. Come walk on the wild side and mingle with the animals. Tours are held Wednesdays at 4 p.m. and Saturdays at 10 a.m. $20 tax-deductible donation per person (half-price for kids and kama‘āina). Reservations required. 298-8544; info@ LeilaniFarmSanctuary.org 260 E Kuiaha Road, Ha‘ikū

SATURDAYS, WEATHER PERMITTING When you have a farmers market smack dab in the middle of farm country, “fresh” takes on a whole new meaning. Nestled amid a patchwork of small-scale farms and cattle ranches, the popular Upcountry Farmers Market offers access to some of the best locally grown food the island has to offer: just-picked fruits and vegetables, fresh-caught fish, ethnic cuisine, homemade baked goods, Maui-grown coffee, nursery plants and other treasures. Vendors have been known to sell out of popular items, so grab your favorite goodies early! 7–11 a.m.

UpcountryFarmersMarket.com.

Kulamalu Town Center 55 Kiopa‘a Street, Pukalani

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TOP: COURTESY LEILANIʻS FARM SANCTUYARY; BOTTOM (2) LEHIA APANA

Upcountry Farmers Market

The legendary shores of Kapalua Bay welcome a new arrival.

Enjoy an Extra Night in Paradise Reserve three consecutive nights at Montage Kapalua Bay and receive a complimentary fourth night to explore one of the world’s most inspiring islands. Awaiting your arrival are our spacious residences, private lanais, and majestic views over the Pacific Ocean.

With rates starting at $695/night, reserve three consecutive nights of exclusive accommodations and receive a fourth night on us. Offer valid for selected travel dates from August 24 to December 17, 2015.

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Arts+Leisure

Sierra Club Hikes

Take a hike with the Sierra Club Maui Group. Monthly outings include guided tours under the night sky with local astronomers, service trips to repair trails or eradicate invasive species, casual strolls along coastal pathways, and special-access treks through areas off-limits to the general public. Venture off the beaten path and reconnect with the great outdoors, while learning the names of indigenous plants and animals, exploring archeological sites and discussing ways to conserve land for future generations.

Bring a lunch, water, rain gear and sunscreen—and wear closed-toe shoes. Cost is $3 for Sierra Club members, $5 for nonmembers over fourteen years of age (kids under fourteen are free). To register or learn more about upcoming hikes, contact Lucienne de Naie at Laluz@Maui.net.

Islandwide

Dog & Duck Q uiz

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Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival

September 4–6 Kā‘anapali Beach Resort hosts an event to delight foodies and oenophiles alike. Two of Hawai‘i’s James Beard Award-winning chefs, Alan Wong and Roy Yamaguchi, join a Who’s Who of the culinary world for cooking demos, tasting sessions and wine pairings.

The festival kicks off Friday morning with the Roy’s Golf Classic tournament on the Kā‘anapali Golf Course, followed by two must-do (and must-eat) events on Saturday: the Grown on Maui farmers market at Whalers Village; and Maui on My Mind dinner prepared by eight renowned chefs at the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa. Sunday, the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa hosts a six-course dinner honoring legendary talent manager Shep Gordon. Tickets and info at HawaiiFoodAndWineFestival.com.

TOP: BOB BANGERTER; BOTTOM: DANE NAKAMA, HAWAI‘I FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL

ht s Nig Thursdays Dog & Duck Irish Pub hosts one of the most talked-about trivia nights around. Teams of six vie for prizes, as well as tickets for a drawing held on the final Thursday of the month.

Grand prizes include zipline tours, whale-watching excursions, kayak rentals and surf lessons, all for six people. Questions run the gamut from easy to tricky . . . to just plain silly. Quizzes begin at 7 p.m., there’s no cost to play and reservations aren’t required, but you may want to arrive early to snag a good seat. 875-9669 Dog & Duck Irish Pub 1913 S. Kīhei Road, Kīhei

RELAXATION JUST THE WAY YOU LIKE IT Experience a Hawaiian spa retreat at 'awili spa and salon, located ¯ at Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort, that will leave you feeling rejuvenated and restored. Apothecary consultants incorporate local herbs, plants and fruits into custom blended products handcrafted for your personalized spa treatment.

CALL 808 573 1234 TO BOOK YOUR TREATMENT

Order by July 15, to start your subscription with the next issue which includes our special Island Living section! 

With a subscription to Maui No Ka ‘Oi magazine, you can keep up with the stories, events and issues that matter to Maui.

Order online at

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1 year $21 (save 30%*) 2 years $37 (save 38%*) 3 years $53 (save 41%*) *Off newsstand price Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul - Aug 2015

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Story by Kyle Ellison | Photography by Bob Bangerter & PETER LIU

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« MAUI STYLE »

Nearly every beach day on Maui begins with the same four words: “Where shall we go?”

Proximity is a factor, but so is the activity you’ll do when you get there. Does it feel like a day to stack longboards on top of the car, or are a chair and a good book all you need? Will you be strolling barefoot as the sun goes down—leaving two sets of prints in the sand—or packing the car full of towels and toys for a day of family fun?

Given that Maui has more than seventy-five beaches and 120 miles of coastline, simply choosing where to go can be a formidable—but welcome—challenge. We asked you, our readers, to name Maui’s best beaches for four different types of activities. Here are the results. So grab those board shorts or your favorite bikini, pack that tube of marine-safe sunscreen, and enjoy!

KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH RESORT ASSOCIATION

Best People Watching Kā‘anapali Beach

If you’re planning a day at Kā‘anapali Beach, you’d better pack your swimsuit—and your yoga pants, cocktail dress, snorkeling gear, boogie board, volleyball shorts, and wallet. Kā‘anapali Beach is where Maui comes to play; from the stream of joggers out sweating at sunrise, to the catamarans returning at sunset, the beach is packed with activity and thousands of feet in the sand. In the cove by “Black Rock”—or Pu‘u Keka‘a—in front of the Sheraton Maui, watch as daredevil youth go flipping and flying off the rocks. At Kā‘anapali Point in front of the Marriott, study the surfers making nimble carves on the classic, left-peeling wave. Volleyball players dive in the sand by Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, and scuba divers clad in wetsuits and hoses recount the fish they’ve seen on the reef. In the middle of it all sit pockets of cabanas, their canvas domes providing shade to resort guests from around the globe. Add in the oceanfront resort hotels teeming with glitterati, and it’s easy to see why Kā‘anapali Beach is the epicenter of people watching on Maui.

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« MAUI STYLE »

Hāmoa has all the ingredients of an idyllic Hawaiian beach: turquoise water, rhythmic surf, and green palm fronds that rustle gently in the easterly breeze. But there’s more to Hāmoa than its timeless tropical beauty. Settle on the sand and gaze across ‘Alenuihāhā Channel, where the snowcapped peaks of Hawai‘i Island’s mountains rise above the clouds, and you discover a blissful sense of seclusion.

Literary luminaries from Mark Twain to James Michener have waxed eloquent about Hāmoa’s evocative beauty; Michener remarked that Hāmoa “is so perfectly formed that I wonder at its comparative obscurity.” We don’t—getting here means navigating an hours-long journey on the serpentine road to Hāna. But once you arrive and descend the wide concrete steps to the salt-and-pepper sand, it’s as if you’ve passed through a portal to a place where life’s mundane realities—deadlines, phone calls, bills to be paid—evaporate like salty water from bare and unburdened shoulders.

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BOB BANGERTER

Most Romantic Setting: Hāmoa in Hāna

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« MAUI STYLE »

For experienced surfers, riding a wave is a magical moment when time and thoughts seem to stop. For beginners, however, it’s common to feel overwhelmed. Do I paddle now? Am I too far out? When should I start to stand up? With so many thoughts to harness at once, having an easy place to learn is a welcome relief. At Kīhei’s Cove Park, gentle waves offer perfect conditions for learning to ride, and the sandy bottom makes for soft landings if—or when—you fall. Compared to Kīhei’s other beaches, the Cove is often more protected from the strong northeasterly trade winds—although morning is still the best time of day for clean, glassy conditions. Rent a longboard from one of the surf schools across the street, or sign up for a lesson to have a professional instructor push you into waves. When your arms can’t paddle another stroke, refuel on shore with fresh fish tacos just a sandy slipper stroll away, and consider returning just before sunset for one last wave.

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BOB BANGERTER

Best Surfing for Beginners Cove Park in Kīhei

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2015

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Best Facilities Kamaole III

BOB BANGERTER

If you took a lifelong local from Maui, covered his eyes with a blindfold, and placed him in the parking lot of Kamaole III, the sounds and smells would be an instant giveaway for Kīhei’s favorite beach. Here, horseshoes clang against metal posts, ice-cold cans crack open with a fizz, and the generator powering a bouncy castle adds the bass line to a symphony of family fun. The aroma of burgers sizzling on the grill mixes sweetly with the tang of salt air, which blends with the scent of freshly cut grass on the park’s expansive lawn. The beach itself, opposite the dunes, hosts a cacophony of gleefully shrieking children all splashing and playing in the waves—and when sand ends up in every place you’d never think it could go, the numerous showers with their jet-strong streams help blast it all away. Add in the large, mostly clean restrooms and proximity to Kīhei’s shops, and Kamaole III is a picnic, party, and beach all rolled into one.

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« MAUI STYLE »

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« ADVENTURE »

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« ADVENTURE »

Clockwise from above: Lā Hikina Artates takes a spin near the park entrance before hitting the nature trails. Taona FiedererSheppard holds on tight along one of the jump lines.

Located just below Makawao town, the park attracts curious visitors and a steady stream of locals.

It’s 11 a.m. on a clear Upcountry day, and I’m white-knuckling my handlebars as I navigate the corkscrew berms at Bike Park Maui.

Just ahead is Molly Brooke, who moments earlier assured me that she’s “a really gentle guide.”

You see, my last mountain-biking trip bruised more than just my confidence. By the day’s end, I counted thirteen crashes and enough scrapes to warrant a Costco-sized box of bandages. Now, here I am back on two wheels.

As we pedal through the eighty-acre bike park just below Makawao town, Molly prepares me for what’s ahead: “Slow it down, slow it down. . . . It’s a bit slick,” she warns as we approach a muddy downhill section.

Lucky for me, Molly knows every angle of the park, which she runs with her husband, Paul Turner. The couple opened Bike Park Maui in June 2014, and have been a fixture within Maui’s mountain-biking scene ever since.

Mention the name Paul Turner to any serious mountain biker, and

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you’ll likely get a history lesson spanning the last three decades of the biking industry. Words like “pioneer” or “game changer” will flow freely, and there’s a solid chance that the person has owned a piece of equipment that Turner developed.

Paul is a serial entrepreneur best known for starting the bicyclesuspension company RockShox with partner Steve Simmons in 1989.

Back then, mountain bikes were a synthesis of road and cruiser bikes, and none of them incorporated suspension technology. RockShox forever changed the industry, enabling mountain bikers to ride harder and jump higher.

“These days, I don’t think you can buy a mountain bike without suspension,” says Paul, who grew up racing dirt bikes and was later hired by Honda’s factory motocross team. He applied his knowledge of motorcycle suspension to design a front suspension fork for a mountain bike.

But this new technology wasn’t initially an easy sell.

He says, “There were magazine articles explaining why suspension

Clockwise from top left: Molly Brooke and Paul Turner are the husband-and-wife team behind Bike Park Maui. Our writer tests her skills along one of several ladder bridges within the park. Riders can BYOB—bring your own bike, that is—or choose from a selection of premium models available to rent. Brad Bayless emerges from the expert-rated Bridges trail.

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« ADVENTURE »

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wouldn’t work for a bicycle. Many old-school cyclists were saying it was nonsense, but there were other people like me, who came from motorcycles, that said, ‘I have to have it.’”

Paul began showing his suspension fork to well-known riders, including his future wife.

“I got made fun of,” recalls Molly, a competitive racer at the time.

“People would say ‘Oh, you don’t need that.’ My response was, ‘You’re right, but if you try it, you’re going to love it and never go back.’”

Within two years, suspension mountain bikes were a common sight on the trails. Paul eventually sold RockShox, but thanks to his innovations, riders were pushing themselves to the limit and landing crazier tricks than ever.

Today Paul and Molly have largely left their hardcore biking ways in the dust. They moved from Colorado to Maui in 2008, trading in their boutique Maverick bike business in Boulder for Maui’s laidback lifestyle. They later purchased the Upcountry property where Bike Park Maui sits, building their home just off one of the riding paths.

“We didn’t immediately think about opening a bike park; we just built some trails for ourselves,” says Paul, adding that, “People often ask us how it feels having people ride through your yard—they think it’s kind of bizarre. . . .We feel the property is really special, but it’s more rewarding if you share it.”

With that in mind, I return a few weeks later with my boyfriend, Brad, and nine-year-old niece Lā Hikina. On any given weekend, the trails are crawling with helmet-clad kids on two wheels. We arrive on a Saturday morning and find riders of all ages perfecting their tricks as their parents socialize nearby.

“When we opened, we thought we’d be getting mainly tourists,” says Paul. “But the local scene has become so much bigger, and it’s great because a lot of them,” he says, nodding at the youngsters, “are just starting biking for the first time.”

Paul lends us bikes and helmets from the rental fleet, then lets us loose. After a few practice loops near the park entrance, we venture past the skills area and jump lines—where bikers are launching from steep drops and catching air—and instead head for open riding.

Opposite page: Kyle Baroso launches over a jump. This page, from top: Paul Turner prepares a rider for the day ahead. Color-coded maps along the trails make navigating the park a breeze. This Santa Cruz bike features RockShox suspension, a company that Paul and business partner Steve Simmons started in 1989.

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« ADVENTURE »

From left: Open trails are only part of the attraction at Bike Park Maui. The sprawling eighty-acre property is home to young koa and Christmas trees, an organic tomato farm, and rows of agave tequilana (pictured). The Spice Forest trail lives up to its name, offering riders a fragrant embrace as they pedal through. Trail builder Justin Varaljay was recruited to help create many of the trails and jump lines at Bike Park Maui. On any given day, you’ll find him maintaining the trails or greeting visitors. Below: A young rider flies high over a jump.

Trails range from beginner to experienced, and color-coded gates and signs ensure you know exactly what you’re getting into. We pedal past the Kalikimaka section—named for the row of Christmas trees Paul and Molly planted last year—then under a blue gate into the Spice Forest lined with fragrant eucalyptus, allspice and cinnamon trees.

These trails are just two reasons Molly refers to the Bike Park Maui experience as “part mountain biking, part farm tour.” We curve along the Koa Trail lined with fledgling koa trees—also planted by Paul and Molly—before reaching the highly technical Bridges section. Living up to its moniker, this expert trail is lined with enough deep roots and plank bridges to disqualify recreational riders like Lā Hikina and me.

We dismount and walk our bikes through this section as Brad rolls past us to test his skills. Thankfully, he’s still smiling when we catch up to him at the trail’s end.

Just around the corner we roll up to what looks like a pineapple field on steroids. More than 700 agave tequilana plants (also known as blue agave) burst from the landscape, their massive spiky leaves

resembling a frozen explosion. But these beautiful giants are more than just for looks; Paul and Molly plan to cultivate the plants to produce commercial agave liquor—what you’d legally be able to call “tequila” if this were Mexico. Elsewhere on the property, a local farmer is growing organic heirloom tomatoes on two-acres of leased land.

We breeze down a pump track that sends us bobbing like a rollercoaster before arriving at our final descent along the Hobbit Trail.

It’s hard to tell us adults apart from the kids, as Brad and I exchange hollers from behind the handlebars. We follow a zigzag pattern through the park until we can’t go any further. Knowing that our ride is nearly over, we take our time peddling back to home base.

By now, my grip is a bit more relaxed, and my confidence restored.

The allure of a bike has always been powerful, and today proved that the best biker out there is the one having the most fun—no death-defying tricks required.

“This park has some extreme elements,” confirms Paul, “but it was built for fun.”

Bike Park Maui 3275 Baldwin Ave., Makawao 740-8405 | BikeParkMaui.com Hours: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. daily Cost: $10 day pass or $50 for a ten-pass punch card Bike rentals: $35 per day for kids, $50–$60 for adults, depending on the type of bike; all rentals include helmets.

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| @ honolulucookie

Pu‘u Kukui, the mist-shrouded summit of the West Maui Mountains, is prime habitat for Hawaiian snails.

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Compared to most other animals in the kingdom, snails receive scant love. Humans tend to frown on slitherers, and snails not only slither, they leave trails of mucus in their wake. Sometimes they nibble on prize-winning plants. But high up in the mist-shrouded Hawaiian mountains live tiny endemic snails of a special class. Sporting beautiful shells in every shade of the rainbow, these wee creatures are worthy of our attention.

Norine Yeung and Kenneth Hayes have devoted the last decade to studying snails in Hawai‘i. The malacologists teamed up while in grad school at the University of Hawai‘i.

In 2004 they began scouring forest reserves and nurseries for foreign mollusks: invasive pests such as the giant African snail and rosy wolf snail. They collected plenty of these—but also stumbled across other species that looked suspiciously native: shy little squishes with shells shaped like cone hats or whorled discs.

“We kept finding snails that we didn’t recognize,” says Yeung. “Since we’d been told that 90 percent of the native snail fauna was extinct, we were surprised.”

Switching their focus from foreign to local, Yeung and Hayes sought answers to questions that hadn’t been asked for decades: How many native terrestrial snail species remain in the Islands? What are their relationships? What can be done to preserve them?

“We knew of 750 species,” says Hayes, “but there’s a whole lot more we can’t even put names to.”

Much of what biologists know about pūpū kuahiwi, or Hawaiian land snails, comes from nineteenth-century

HAYES & YEUNG

STORY BY SH AN NO N W

IA

NE CK I

« MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA »

HAYES & YEUNG

Cookeconcha hystricella lays a single, tiny, transparent egg that hatches into a baby snail. It’s unknown how many eggs this snail lays in its lifetime, or how often. Adults measure just under 3 millimeters. They are primarily ground dwellers. The species is one of only two survivors from the diverse Endodontidae family, which once contained 200-plus species.

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TOP: SHELBY LYNCH; BOTTOM: JOCHEN GERBER © THE FIELD MUSEUM (2014)

Above: Hawaiian land snail shells at Bailey House Museum in Wailuku; Below: Four different Hawaiian tree snail species (Achatinella spp.) from O‘ahu and two large, brown specimens (Carelia cumingiana) from Kaua‘i. Achatinella species are reduced to few isolated populations; the entire genus Carelia is presumed to be extinct.

naturalists such as David Dwight Baldwin. In the late 1800s, the missionary’s son amassed 1,144 land-snail specimens from five islands. He became an authority on the subject, publishing the first scientific catalog of Hawaiian land snails. He named several species and even more were named in his honor.

The shells that Baldwin and other collectors culled from island forests are gemlike, bright daubs of colors and patterns: jade green as shiny as hard candy, yellow with mahogany and cream stripes, and fiery red with umber zigzags. They’ve lost little of their luster over the past century, and can be viewed at several local museums, including the Baldwin House and Bailey House on Maui, and the Bishop Museum on O‘ahu.

The diversity of pūpū kuahiwi is astonishing; in fact, they rank among the planet’s most remarkable examples of evolutionary radiation. Scientists estimate that the Hawaiian snails’ ancestors arrived in the Islands several million years ago. Over many generations, the twenty-odd pioneer species evolved into ten unique families and as many as 1,400 species. Ninety-nine percent are endemic to Hawai‘i, found nowhere else on earth. Some species hail from a single island, even a single valley.

One of Yeung and Hayes’s colleagues, Marty Meyer, investigated the role that Hawaiian snails play in the ecosystem. He found that the minuscule mollusks serve a big function in the forest. They’re a food source for other native species—carnivorous caterpillars, and

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« MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA »

HAYES & YEUNG; INSET: JOCHEN GERBER © THE FIELD MUSEUM (2014)

Top left: Ken Hayes rappels down a steep gulley in search of snails on Moloka‘i.

Top right: Tornatellides sp. is a member of the Achatinellidae family that also contains the famous kāhuli tree snails. This species is a smaller, lesserknown cousin of the kāhuli, often overlooked or forgotten because of its extremely small size and dull color. It likely plays a vital role in maintaining ecosystem functioning.

Inset: The largest specimen on the left (Oxychilus alliarius) is an invasive species that preys upon its neighbors, two pairs of native snails from the families Endodontidae and Helicinidae.

This richly patterned snail (Laminella aspera) is endemic to Maui and was among those thought extinct until very recently.

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Affectionately referred to as “snot in a hat,” Succinea baldwini is found on the slopes of West Maui, along with several undescribed species recently discovered

by Yeung and Hayes. The pair's work is supported by grants from the National Science Foundation (DEB1120906) and United States Fish and Wildlife Service.

birds such as Hawaiian honeycreepers. More importantly, the snails help decompose and cycle nutrients back into the soil—an essential service in nutrient-poor Hawaiian forests. Unlike other snails that feed on plant tissue, pūpū kuahiwi graze on the algae, bacteria, and fungi growing on the surface of leaves.

To scrape plants clean of parasitic growths, these mobile barbers use special mouth organs called radulae—something like conveyor belts punctuated by tiny teeth. Each snail species can be identified by its uniquely shaped radula, visible under electron microscope.

Now that fewer native snails inhabit the forest, hikers notice changes, says Yeung. “Old-timers say there’s a lot more fungus on trees now, so the trees are weaker.”

Of the ten native snail families, Achatinellidae is the best known.

The famous O‘ahu tree snails, kāhuli, belong to this family. Slow to mature, these forest jewels can reach twenty-five years of age and give live birth to one or two baby snails per year. Ancient Hawaiians prized kāhuli for their beautiful shells, used in lei and referenced in folklore.

An old Hawaiian chant, “Kāhuli Aku,” tells of snails that chirp in the evening, asking golden plovers to fetch them water. Oral histories say these singing snails were once so abundant in the forest that they hung from trees like clusters of grapes.

Sadly, that’s no longer the case. Across Hawai‘i, pūpū kuahiwi

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disappeared, due to loss of habitat, overharvesting by collectors, and predation by rats, Jackson’s chameleons, and rosy wolf snails.

Yeung and Hayes hope to document how many and which native snail species are left. They pay special attention to lesserknown snails, such as those in Puctidae family, nicknamed “dot snails” because they measure only one millimeter. Yeung claims a preference for anything under five millimeters in shell height. “I’m short and I’m always for the underdog,” she says. “Plus, they’re absolutely cute when you magnify them.”

Tracking down snails requires indoor and outdoor expeditions.

Yeung, who works for Bishop Museum, travels worldwide to search for Hawaiian shells in the bowels of august institutions, where uncataloged specimens collect dust in drawers. “It’s like a treasure hunt,” she says. “You have to go through papers published in the late 1800s and early 1900s to see if the material you have is what you think it is. When you identify one, you’re excited.”

Searching for wild snails is even more thrilling. Yeung and Hayes catch helicopters to remote summits, rappel into plunging gulches, and camp beside pristine bogs. On the steep slopes of West Maui, they found a relatively common species, Succinea baldwini (nicknamed “snot in a hat” for its phlegm-like appearance.) They also turned up several new, undescribed species.

HAYES & YEUNG

Right: Electron micrographs allow researchers to identify snails by their teeth (radulae).

« MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA »

Left: Norine Yeung out “snailing.” Below: Kaala subrutila, a species endemic to Mt. Ka‘ala on O‘ahu. The beautiful shell patterns actually come from the colors of the snails body. When empty, the shell is translucent amber.

HAYES & YEUNG; ILLUSTRATION: JOHN GIORDANI

Song of the Snail

“Unfortunately, snails like wet weather,” says Hayes, who has hiked through many a cloudburst toting a forty-five-pound backpack and stooping every few feet to inspect leaves. Finding cryptic crawlers the size of a pinky fingernail in intermittent downpours is no easy task.

The malacologists use sieves to locate small snails hiding in leaf litter, soft-touch forceps to gently handle them, and jeweler’s loupes to eye their markings.

“The shells are so small and fragile,” says Yeung. “You wouldn’t want to touch them with your fingers; you’d crush them.” The days of indiscriminate collecting are long past for these endangered species.

Conservation initiatives are under way to preserve what native snail fauna remains. The University of Hawai‘i runs a captive-breeding program and the O‘ahu Army Natural Resources Program built the world’s first snail-proof fence in the Wai‘anae Mountains to protect kāhuli from predatory rosy wolf snails, plus rats and chameleons. A similar refuge is planned for West Maui.

Perhaps 90 percent of Hawaiian land snails have vanished—but no one knows for sure how many still exist. That’s why Yeung and Hayes are out combing remote Hawaiian valleys and dusty museum collections for evidence of rare pūpū kuahiwi.

“We have hope there are many more out there,” says Yeung. “We just need to find them.”

Since the late eighteenth century, Hawai‘i’s land snails have fascinated European and American shell collectors—more for the beauty of their shells than as scientific specimens. After the publication of Charles Darwin’s On the Origin of Species in 1859, it became popular for many of the world’s leading scientific museums to amass and display their own collections of Hawai‘i’s intriguing land snails, whose astonishing variety provided museum visitors with a vivid example of the British scientist’s theory of natural selection.

Certain species of the Achatinellidae family are said to possess the ability to create a high-pitched whistling sound; their “songs” have also been variously described as a chirp, a trilling sound, a “cheep-cheep-cheep” or “peep-peep-peep.”

Singing snails also figure in Native Hawaiian folklore. In “Kahuli Aku,” an ancient chant put to music by the renowned Beamer family (and sung

by Keola Beamer on his 2003 album Mohala Hou), a snail uses its song to ask a bird to bring it water. And in the legend of Waipi‘o Valley heroine Lauka‘ie‘ie, the singing land snail Pūpūkanioe offers to help her find the man she dreams of each night.

By the late nineteenth century, numerous researchers were conducting their own searches to verify or dispel the ancient stories. Many visited sites associated with the snails and confirmed they had heard the songs—but some expressed doubts about the source. In 1913, Robert Perkins, a prominent British insect expert, conducted his own investigation and found that crickets were producing the singing attributed to the snails.

The late singer/songwriter Rev. Dennis Kamakahi touched on the controversy in his 1998 album ‘Ohana: “There’s a great scientific debate about whether it’s the land shell or the crickets you hear, but if you are from Hawai‘i, you know it’s the shell,” wrote Kamakahi in the liner notes for his song “E Pupukanioe.”—Peter von Buol Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2015

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KEEPING Maui’s winningest canoe club is borrowing lessons from the past to surge ahead.

Story by MAT THEW THAYER

Hawaiian Canoe Club’s girls 12-and-under crew celebrates after their first-place finish at the 2014 HCRA State Championship Regatta at Ke‘ehi Lagoon on O‘ahu. Clubs at the annual competition swap their usual fiberglass canoes for traditional koa wood versions.

It is a calm Kā‘anapali morning as paddlers in the under-twelve age group pile into their clubs’ outrigger canoes and stroke to the lanes assigned for their quarter-mile race, one of forty-six events that crews of all ages will complete during the daylong regatta.

Guided by steersmen and –women, paddlers skillfully guide their long, brightly colored canoes to the proper lanes, back paddling to a halt just behind the starting line.

At the wave of a green flag, the kids turn the water to froth, propelling their crafts to top speed. Before long, repeating a sight that has vexed competitors around the state for years, the blue

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canoe from Maui’s Hawaiian Canoe Club steadily pulls away to win.

After the race, they return to the beach, but there’s no time for most of the kids from Hawaiian Canoe Club to pick up their firstplace medals. For those enrolled in the summer Kamali‘i Program, the challenge is just beginning.

After a few hugs and quick goodbyes from anxious moms, the ten- and eleven-year-old paddlers are back in their canoes.

They scoot across regatta lanes between races to join a flotilla of support boats making the program’s yearly open-ocean crossing to the island of the Lāna‘i. Seventy youngsters in rotating crews

« HAWAIIAN SOUL »

JOHANN MEYA

Culture Afloat

make the crossing, inspiring twinges of envy among the paddlers and coaches watching from shore. The adults know the kids are setting off on much more than an adventure; they are beginning a cultural and personal exploration that may well change their lives.

Arianna Gerry was an eleven-year-old steerswoman when she first crossed the nine-mile, blue-water ‘Au‘au Channel and rounded the towering sea cliffs of Lāna‘i to reach Mānele Bay. “It was probably one of the scariest experiences of my life, but it bonded my team,” Gerry recalls. “To go out on the open ocean as an eleven-year-old, you have to trust the people in the canoe with you.

To find that kind of confidence helped me develop my skills as a keiki [youth], and even until now.”

At twenty-five, Gerry has won six state championships as a steerswoman for Hawaiian Canoe Club crews, steered for clubs when she lived in Florida and California, and currently serves as Hawaiian’s club manager. It is no coincidence that a Kamali‘i product has continued to play a role with the club as an adult.

Hawaiian’s coaching ranks are filled with paddlers who came up through the free program.

This summer marks the twenty-third year Kamali‘i will bring Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul—Aug 2015

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« HAWAIIAN SOUL »

Head keiki coach Kauhane Lu‘uwai gathers his young paddlers during a practice at Kahului Harbor.

together seventy Maui kids, ages ten to fourteen, to learn about water safety, navigation, food preparation, sustainable practices, and, most of all, Hawaiian values and history. It is deeply meaningful that a canoe club has become the vessel for teaching island children about Hawaiian culture. Canoes are how Hawaiians reached these far-flung Pacific islands long ago. Canoes figured hugely in trade, war and food gathering in pre-Contact Hawai‘i. It was a voyaging canoe, Hōkūle‘a, that launched the Hawaiian Renaissance of the 1970s and continues to be a touchstone of island pride.

The seven-week Kamali‘i Program is not only steeped in Hawaiian history, it aspires to ensure a positive future for the Islands.

Each day begins and ends with an oli, or chant, features two hours of classroom work, and also plenty of time on the water.

One of the core Hawaiian values taught by the Kamali‘i Program is respect for elders. If a child is to be trusted to cross the cobalt waters of island channels or help work the taro patches deep in Moloka‘i’s Hālawa Valley, he or she must be able to respond to instruction without question—even if it is coming from a youth leader who is only a few years older.

Leaders use traditional Hawaiian methods to convey lessons that range from ancient legends to the components of an outrigger canoe.

Each year concludes with a sold-out show at the King Kamehameha Golf Course’s Grand Waikapū Ballroom, where participants perform oli and hula they have spent seven weeks learning and sharpening.

“The goal is to build character and self-confidence, but also to give these kids some perspective and respect for the culture,” Gerry says. “We get kids from all over the island. They develop their paddling skills and also their friendships with kids from other schools, other towns. They’re competitive on the water, but they are friends and family on the land.”

Kamali‘i’s success can be measured on a variety of levels.

Administrators point to youngsters who have gone on to be the first

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from their families to attend college. There are also disadvantaged and homeless children who have found direction and camaraderie through the program. Its focus on developing thoughtful leaders pays dividends across Maui.

“The Kamali‘i Program is practically my home during the summer,” says twelve-year-old steerswoman Nohealani Ledesma. “I’ve learned so much that a lot of people think I’m in Hawaiian Immersion. When I hang out with my Hawaiian friends, I speak Hawaiian with them.”

Longtime Kamali‘i participant Traesyn Shimoda says it is powerful to respect the environment as well as the ancestors. “Everything we do is to benefit or to learn about the Hawaiian ways. When we go to Lāna‘i, we go to this waterfall, and you can feel the mana [divine power] around it.”

Lando Kahalehau, thirteen, says the program has helped him get in touch with his Hawaiian roots.

“You get a lot of experience and you want to learn more,” he says.

“I am amazed at what the Hawaiians did and how they did it. I feel proud to be Hawaiian.”

That cultural resonance may help explain the club’s rise to dominance in the Hawaiian Canoe Racing Association’s annual State Championship Regatta. Riding the strength of its junior-division crews to build large early leads, the club has earned twelve state titles in the past sixteen years. Hawaiian has also won every Maui County Hawaiian Canoe Association championship since 1985. The club’s teen crews won thirteen medals at the 2014 Va‘a World Sprint Championships in Brazil, and also fare well each year while competing in Tahiti.

The unprecedented success of a neighbor island club in a sport long dominated by crews from O‘ahu leaves many folks around Hawai‘i scratching their heads, wondering how Hawaiian does it. Like many great outcomes, this one had humble beginnings, a nexus of the right people, and a canoe full of dedication and hard work.

MATTHEW THAYER

“THE GOAL IS TO BUILD CHARACTER AND SELF-CONFIDENCE.”

TOP (2): MATTHEW THAYER; MIDDLE LEFT: MICHELLE CERIZO; BOTTOM: JOHANN MEYA

Clockwise from right: Nohealani Ledesma and her teammates haul a canoe onto shore during a recent practice. Paddlers in the manini (a small surgeonfish) division race to the finish during a 2014 regatta. Ledesma is a Kamali‘i Program veteran, as shown in this image from 2013, when she and her classmates learned about kalo (taro). Hawaiian’s club manager Arianna Gerry is a product of the Kamali‘i Program.

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« HAWAIIAN SOUL »

Setting the standard for younger club members, older boys sprint to the finish during a beach run at Kahului Harbor.

Top: Kamali‘i participants haul rocks to a trail they are building on Kaho‘olawe. Above: Kaho‘olawe was once used as a military training site. Makena Lani Ferdolage stands at “Sailor’s Hat” crater, which was formed in 1965 due to a 500-ton TNT explosion by the U.S. Navy.

Head coach Diane Ho says the club didn’t have a proper home and was being run out of the back of a car parked along the shore of Kahului Harbor when she turned to an upbeat nineteen-year-old named Kauhane Lu‘uwai and told him he was the new head keiki coach. Thirty-five years later, Lu‘uwai runs a program that sets the standard in Hawai‘i.

“I love our canoe club and what we stand for, the morals we try to teach our kids,” says Lu‘uwai. “We’re not perfect, but we give it our best effort.”

Ho says there isn’t a keiki coach in the state who can match Lu‘uwai’s knowledge, commitment and heart. And now that the car trunk has been replaced by a modern, two-story hale [building] and an adjacent, traditional Hawaiian structure, the coach has a place for his flock to gather.

“He’s creating a family down there, a safe place to grow up,” Ho says. “Instead of hanging out at the mall, they would rather be at the club. He’s strict with them. If they want to hang out at the club, they

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better behave. It is a testament to [Kauhane].”

As the 1980s gave way to the ’90s and the junior paddling program continued to grow, the club saw more and more kids hanging around, waiting for practice to start.

“We had all these kids,” Ho recalls. “We said, ‘What are we going to do?’”

The question led to a collaborative effort by coaches, grant writers and other behind-the-scenes workers to develop a summer program. In 1992, seven years before the club would win its first state championship, it held its first Kamali‘i Program. Lu‘uwai was program director that year and has been in the thick of the action ever since.

“It was kind of the wild west out there,” Lu‘uwai recalls. “We weren’t the greatest paddlers and we didn’t have the greatest coaching, but the passion was there. As time went on we got better. It started with the kids; we started building, and all of a sudden the kids won the county championship on their own. We started getting more serious and we kept getting better.”

Each summer, Lu‘uwai takes older Kamali‘i participants on interisland crossings to do community service projects on Moloka‘i and Kaho‘olawe. The Kaho‘olawe trip, which entails working on the trail the Kamali‘i Program has been building for the past twenty-two years, is a privilege that must be earned.

“I make them write an essay on why they want to go,” Lu‘uwai says. “Some kids have the right reasons and some don’t. The kids learn what Kaho‘olawe is all about. It’s really a cultural retreat. I always tell parents, ‘Your kids are not going to come back the same.’”

Registration for the Kamali‘i Program begins in April and ends when all seventy spots are filled. The program itself runs June through mid-July. For details, visit HawaiianCanoeClub.org. Though the program is free, participants must pay paddling fees ($80) and expenses for off-island trips. Sponsorships available based on need.

LEFT (2): MICHELLE CERIZO; TOP RIGHT: MATTHEW THAYER

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2015

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Husband-and-wife architects resurrect a vintage house once owned by St. Theresa’s.

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« AT HOME »

Story by heidi pool Photography by ryan siphers

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2015

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Glass-door cabinets and crown molding retain the home’s period feel.

Left: A staircase at the main entrance leads to a spacious lānai and French-style front door; the shingled roof helps maintain the home’s beach cottage vernacular. Below: The wood dining table is an heirloom from Randy’s family, and is more than 200 years old.

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« AT HOME »

BOTTOM ROW COURTESY RANDY WAGNER

Top: George and Randy’s home as it looks today. Above, from left: The rear of the house when the couple purchased it in 1996; The first renovation began with removing a portion of the roof to create a dormer for a bedroom loft.; The home’s first renovation was completed in 1997.

If you close your eyes and imagine the quintessential beach house, the picture in your mind likely contains these elements: a neutral color palette punctuated with splashes of muted blues and greens, crisp white cabinetry and window frames, warm wood flooring complemented by bamboo window shades, and a spacious lānai from which to watch the sun set into a shimmering sea behind swaying palm trees. Transform that image into real life, and you have George Rixey and Randy Wagner’s beachfront home in Kīhei.

When the couple purchased the property in 1996, the twobedroom, one-bathroom structure was essentially a teardown— “a total mess,” Randy recalls. But as architects, she and George could see the potential. “The sun was streaming through the windows, and

we could see beyond the disarray that it really was a beautiful home.

Plus, its architectural style reminded us of houses in the mid-Atlantic region where we both grew up. It had that East Coast ‘beachy’ feel that spoke to us on a personal level.”

And the home came with an interesting past. “The original St. Theresa’s Catholic Church was down the street,” says George. “Built in 1935, this was one of three dwellings that housed church personnel.

It’s the only one still standing, and it served as quarters for the nuns, who also took in orphans and widows. Because of its past, there’s a tremendous feeling of mana [divine power] in this house.”

George and Randy lived in the house for nearly sixteen years, and raised two children here, before tackling a complete remodel.

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« AT HOME »

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Top: Just off the living room are two of the home’s original bedrooms, which housed three Catholic nuns each. A handmade Amish rocker provides an inviting vantage point from which to admire George’s artwork hung above the built-in bookcase.

Below from left: The master bedroom features a carved wooden headboard whose design mirrors the ocean waves just outside. A desk opposite the bed is perfectly situated for obtaining inspiration from the sea.

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They made the place livable by patching all the holes in the walls, replacing the windows, retiling the bathroom, giving the kitchen a much-needed facelift, and adding a bedroom loft for their son. After the kids were grown and on their own, the couple decided it was time. By then, says George, “The house was shifting on its foundation, and there was extensive termite damage.” But what finally led them to remodel was their desire for an indoor laundry room. “This area floods fairly frequently,” Randy says. “Our laundry area used to be under the house, and once, over a period of two years, we had to replace our washer and dryer two times!”

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« AT HOME »

From left: A built-in bookcase holds an eclectic mix of memorabilia, from books on Eastern philosophy to a wooden surfer handmade by a Sumatran artisan. White oak flooring was inspired by beach homes the couple saw while growing up on the East Coast. A collection of ocean treasures surround a hurricane lamp atop a koa wood base carved by a Maui craftsman.

The renovation began in June of 2012, with George and Randy estimating it would take six months. “We operate the cottage on our property as a vacation rental,” says Randy. “We blocked out six months for ourselves, and moved in.” But as the renovation stretched on, they became veritable vagabonds. The couple served as architects and general contractors throughout the project, so although they own a cabin in Upcountry Maui, they didn’t relish a daily one-hour drive to or from the construction site. Instead, they moved into temporary

housing two more times until the now-three-bedroom, three-bath house was ready to be occupied in July of 2014.

Why make the project DIY? “The craftsmanship and intricacy that went into the remodel was too complicated to convey to someone else with drawings,” George says. “We designed everything ourselves, down to the last centimeter,” adds Randy.

By accident, they met a family of skilled craftsmen who live near the couple’s cabin. “Their car broke down on our road and we

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« AT HOME »

Randy admired the ocean-inspired tiles and drawer pulls she used on an architectural project in Maryland so much that she used them in the couple’s own master bath.

couldn’t get out,” Randy recalls. “When we discovered the three men had carpentry skills, we first had them do small jobs at our cabin. We ended up employing them for the entire remodel here in Kīhei.”

During the early stages of the project, George and Randy realized the house had originally been built to last. “One of the first things we did was remove the old roof,” George says. “We discovered the underlying materials were of a quality you can’t find today. The rafters were old-growth fir that’s lightweight but hard, and it was completely dry. You can’t buy lumber like that today, and we couldn’t bring ourselves to replace it. So we ran the wood through a planer, resurfaced it, and reused it. We also recycled the original doors and the one-inch tongue and groove wherever we could.”

They also added a second floor, which contains the master bedroom and bathroom, and two spacious closets. But before they could do so, the foundation needed shoring up. “The new foundation is a combination of concrete-block walls and posts,” says George.

Remodeling their house gave George an opportunity to flex his builder muscles.

“I grew up in the construction business, and have been around it my whole life,” he says. “I love the smell of wood, and pounding nails with a hammer. It’s much

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« AT HOME »

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EACH OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED

A glass bowl—whose design simulates the pounding surf—is festooned with sea shells and bits of coral.

more satisfying than using power tools.”

“George had a hand in everything, from the framing, to the carpentry and built-ins, to the cabinetry,” says Randy.

The one feature of the home they didn’t have to completely remodel, just repair, was the oceanfront concrete lānai—the only part of the house that hadn’t shifted over time.

“It was basically holding the house in place,” George says. He and Randy enjoy drinking their morning tea out there while gazing at the ocean and looking for the migratory kōlea (Pacific golden plover) that’s been visiting for years. “He hangs out at the edge of our property for months at a time,” says Randy.

“When he arrives in the fall, he’s all brown, and by the time he leaves, his feathers have taken on a tuxedo-like quality.”

“When we first moved to Maui, we lived in Wailuku, then Wailea,” says Randy.

But neither town felt like home to them.

“I found this house while George was on a surf vacation in Sumatra. I picked him up at the airport, drove him past the property, and said, ‘I think this feels like us.’”

Being close to shops, restaurants, and services has its perks, also, says Randy. “We can walk or ride our bicycles to everything.

We could get by without a car if we wanted.”

George and Randy stay in Kīhei most of the time, spending a day or two each week at their Upcountry cabin. “We have olive and fruit trees, and a vegetable garden, so there’s always something to do,” Randy says.

“We truly have the best of both worlds— mountain and ocean.”

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Dining STORY BY BECKY SPEERE PHOTOGRAPHY

BY NINA KUNA

Left: Just ten years after opening Maui Brewing Company in the corner of a Kahana strip mall, Garrett Marrero and wife Melanie Oxley have transformed their modest craft beer operation into the largest craft brewery in Hawai‘i.

Opposite: New beer flavors are being added monthly. One of their most popular brews, CoCoNut PorTeR is always on tap.

“It’s a cathedral to beer making!” I say to my husband as we arrive for a tour of Maui Brewing Company’s new production facility and tasting room. Tall, earth-colored stucco walls, massive tinted windows and a terraced xeriscape accentuate the structure’s expanse. Built in the middle of the Maui Research & Technology Park in Kīhei, with Mt Haleakalā looming large as a backdrop, the $18 million project took fifteen months from groundbreaking to completion, with an additional $1.2 million spent on a photovoltaic system that provides 200 kilowatts of sustainable energy. This new facility is the brainchild of Garrett Marrero and his wife, Melanie Oxley—as unlikely a pair of brewmasters as you’d imagine.

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Garrett Marrero came to Maui often to surf, dive and relax. The stress he felt as an investment consultant faded away each time he immersed himself in Maui’s earthly bounties. The simpler lifestyle of the islands wrapped around his soul and called to him: “Live here.” Garrett’s wife, Melanie Oxley, worked for ten years as a financial analyst, and after two visits to Maui, she was ready to trade in her black pumps for rubber slippers, shorts and a tank top.

In 2004, Garrett saw an opportunity. “I knew there wasn’t any locally made beer—all of the [Hawai‘i-namesake] beers were being produced on the mainland. With craft breweries gaining attention across the nation, I couldn’t believe

It’s been a decade since Garrett Marrero and Melanie Oxley first put Maui on the craft brewery map.

Their latest project has heads turning yet again.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2015

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Dining Far left: Founders Garrett Marrero and Melanie Oxley in the Tasting Room of their Kīhei location.

Left: Buck Florian leads daily tours through the brewery (below).

Depending on the day, groups witness various stages of production.

Bottom left: On display are the kinds of wheat and barley grains used during the brewing process.

someone wasn’t already doing it here.” A huge potential market for a craft beer made solely in Hawai‘i was obvious to Garrett and Melanie.

Within months, they had moved to Maui and started the business.

With only two attempts at making home-brewed beer, Garrett launched into educating himself on the process, while Melanie kept track of the finances. Their ambition of producing a superb local craft beer was realized in their first year of operation. As if blessed by the Pope, they garnished two medals of excellence for their Father Damien Abbey Ale at the Great American Beer Festival in 2005.

Over the next decade, as demand for their Maui-made craft beers surged, Maui Brewing Company outgrew its Kahana microbrewery, moved into a larger facility in Lahaina town, outgrew that, and built an even larger production facility and tasting room in Kīhei, on Maui’s south shore. By its tenth year, the company could boast more than eighty medals of distinction. For the past seven years, the company has sponsored Maui Brewers Festival, which attracts several dozen craft breweries from the mainland, and is considered one of the largest craft beer festivals in the Islands.

Garrett, Melanie and their team of brewers began testing batches of beer at the Kīhei site in October 2014, perfecting their craft on the new equipment. We’ve come today to see what’s been brewing— quite literally. Touring the brewery are curiosity seekers like us. The 42,000-square-foot building is filled with shiny stainless steel tanks, a quality assurance lab, pallet storage stacked with various grains, a canning line, and a 3,000-square-foot refrigerator.

Our guide Buck Florian is a home-brewing maverick and longtime

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Dining Left: Liquid from the mash tun is transferred to the brew kettle to be boiled.

Below: This wort sampling station allows quality assurance engineer Andrea Baillo (pictured at right) to check gravity, sugar and alcohol levels.

Below right: Hop pellets used for aroma and bitterness in beer.

employee whom I remember from the Lahaina facility. He brings us to our first stop: the mash tun, a stainless steel tank filled with malted grains and water, otherwise known as wort. It’s during this process that the maximum color and flavor are extracted, leaving the grains behind. As Buck explains, local farmers and ranchers repurpose the spent grains as animal feed.

The wort is then transferred to the kettle to boil. Depending on the style of beer being brewed, the brewer will add hops for bittering and aroma, or include them later during the fermentation cycle. Next, the wort is cooled in a whirlpool to quickly lower the temperature.

It’s a necessary step that also comes with added challenges, as cooler temperatures mean the wort is more susceptible to contamination.

Buck reassures us that Maui Brewing has it covered.

“We have our in-house quality assurance engineer Andrea Baillo, who holds a doctorate in molecular biology. Spigots at the front of the tanks allow her to measure residual sugar, alcohol levels, and also test for the presence of uninvited bacteria.”

A self-contained sanitizing system ensures no human ever enters the tank. Buck stresses the importance of the new automated system

saying, “This reduces the chances for bacterial contamination and possible loss of thousands of gallons of beer.”

Yeast is then added to the cooled wort to kickoff the fermentation process. Most of the physical work is complete, and it’s now a waiting game. Depending on the kind of beer being produced, the brew will be ready in seven to twenty-one days.

The facility houses eight stainless-steel fermentation tanks, each holding 3,100 gallons of beer, plus two smaller tanks that hold 775 gallons apiece. Just outside the brewhaus, six tanks each hold another 7,750 gallons. The total is a whopping 95,780 gallons of malted deliciousness, which will eventually fill about 1,021,653 twelve-ounce cans. But who’s counting?

We round the corner and approach the most expensive equipment in the brewery: the canning line. The German-made Krones filler and Angelus seamer is the “Mercedes of canning,” says Buck. These brewery workhorses pull their weight, filling and sealing up to 375 cans per minute—or sixty cases per hour. Don’t bother looking for Maui Brewing Company beverages in a bottle, Buck points out.

He explains, “The lightweight aluminum cans are space saving,

Far right: In keeping with their communitybased model, Maui Brewing Company cans are manufactured on O‘ahu and designed by Maui artists.

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BOTTOM RIGHT: COURTESY OF MAUI BREWING COMPANY

Right: Indoor cellar tanks allow brewers to express their artistic brewing desires.

Dining

With thirty-two beers on tap, you’re sure to find a favorite.

Above right: Samples of Mana Wheat, Bikini Blonde, CoCoNut PorTeR, and Big Swell IPA await after the brewery tour.

Dining » MAUI MIXOLOGY

Maui Day Dreaming Created by Maui bartender James Shoemaker Whisked to create a thick head of bubbles, the CoCoNut PorTeR topping on this cocktail adds a touch of yeasty coconut bread flavors.

INGREDIENTS 1.5 oz Deep Island Hawaiian Rum (Maui made) .5 oz. orange curaçao .5 oz. orgeat syrup 3 oz. pineapple/guava juice blend 1/2 fresh lime (squeezed) 4 oz. Maui Brewing Company CoCoNut PorTeR METHOD In a cocktail shaker with ice, mix rum, orange curaçao, orgeat syrup, juices and lime. Shake vigorously and strain over fresh ice into a bucket-style glass. In a bowl, whisk the CoCoNut PorTeR vigorously to create a “foam.” Using a spoon, apply PorTeR foam to the cocktail as a float. Garnish with spent lime shell. ‘Ōkole maluna! (Bottom’s up!)

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Above: Temperaturecontrolled storage tanks maximize the brewery’s output. Right: A rotating roster of food trucks is parked near the Tasting Room. During a recent visit, a grilled cheese sandwich from 808 Street Grindz paired well with the 808 Crystal Wheat ale.

reducing shipping costs, and also protecting the beer from sunlight that may affect the flavor. Keeping with our sustainable model, we use a 96 percent recycled plastic ring to hold our four and six-packs of beer.”

With my mind brimming with brewing ingenuity, the only thing that’s left to fill is my belly. We enter the tasting room and grab trays filled with generous samples of Maui Brewing Company’s four flagship flavors: Bikini Blonde, a filtered Munich Helles-style lager brewed with floral hops and Pilsner and Munich malts; CoCoNut PorTeR, a robust dark porter brewed with hand-toasted coconut; Big Swell, India Pale Ale, brewed and dry-hopped to perfection; and Mana Wheat with hints of locally grown fresh-pressed pineapples. I also sample two other beers: Imperial Coconut Porter and the Redcock Doppelbock, one of Melanie’s favorites, then add them to my list of favorites as I make mental notes for my next beer-food pairing.

With thirty-two craft beers on tap in the tasting room, I realize that I could be there all day. Instead, I vow to come back often and keep sampling their new monthly releases. I may find another favorite.

BREWERY 605 Lipoa Pkwy, Kīhei|213-3002 Tasting Room is open every day 11am–10pm Tours start every day 12:30|1:30|2:30 $5 per person, which includes a flight of four beers; reservations required.

BREWPUB Kahana Gateway Center, 4405 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy #217, Lahaina|669-3474 Open every day 11am–10pm Happy hour 3–6pm MauiBrewing.com

a restaurant created by a man who loves to eat Serving Hawai‘i Since 1976

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Best Mediterranean BEST Guidebook

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2015

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Dining » DINING HIGHLIGHTS

The ocean views are as delectable as the flavors at Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a.

RESTAURANTS WITH A VIEW 5 venues to improve your dining outlook I live in a lush green rain forest on the north shore of Maui, surrounded by dense tropical foliage. Idyllic as that is, there are times when I crave sunshine, an ocean view, and having someone else cook for me. When that feeling overcomes me, Maui provides many options. Here are five of my favorites.

TOP: BECKY SPEERE; RIGHT: COURTESY OF GRAND WAILEA

Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a My husband Chris sounds like a talking mynah bird (albeit a cute one) as he says, over and over, “Chef Mike really knows what he’s doing. His food is so good!” I have to agree. Michael Lofaro’s mouthwatering carpaccio is a playful execution of Japanese hamachi drizzled with yuzu aioli and celery ginger shaved ice. It pairs tightly with Botero Bar’s signature cocktail, the Tropical Cosmo, made with vodka, rum, lime and a splash of cranberry juice. A watermelon, prosciutto, and herbed-goat-cheese salad adds salty, crunchy, chewy and sweet attributes.

Humu perches over a manmade lagoon; it’s a serene spot for watching the setting sun paint the sky in shades of red and orange— backlighting that transforms the coconut palms into dancing silhouettes. Although

BY BECKY SPEERE

the restaurant seats nearly 200, it feels expansive, with a wide, overhanging thatched roof supported by native ‘ōhi‘a hardwood posts that remind me of a Hawaiian legend I heard while growing up, about ‘Ōhi‘a, a strong warrior who was transformed into a tree.

While the Korean-style fried-chicken entrée and eye of prime rib with sauce Perigourdine tempt me, I’m won over by the seared ono (wahoo) served on steamed mochi-coconut rice with a tangy coconutlime emulsion and thinly sliced salted pink radishes. The creamy flavors coaxed from a dish with no cream has us doing double takes, and leaves us sated without the fat. We have to laugh when Peter, our server, quips, “Thanks for not scraping the pattern off the plate!” Gold-leaf-dappled chocolate-peanutbutter-crunch wafers with house-churned crème-fraîche ice cream create the perfect ending to our Wailea sojourn.

Grand Wailea: A Waldorf Astoria Resort 3850 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea 808-875-1234 | GrandWailea.com/Dine Find Chef Lofaro’s hamachi carpaccio recipe at MauiMagazine.net/Maui-Magazine/Dining/Recipes.

Dishes like the carpaccio of Japanese hamachi (top) and the crispy mahimahi (above) put on a show of their own at the picturesque Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2015

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Dining » DINING HIGHLIGHTS

Above: Enjoy a frosty beer or ice-cold mai tai as you savor the tropical breezes atop Front Street’s only open-air penthouse bar. Left: Fleetwood’s Maine lobster-crusted mahimahi with seared fingerling potatoes is a standout.

Chris and I sit at the Roof Top Bar, sipping a Lime in the Coconut cocktail while Scottish bagpipes fill the air. Views of the West Maui Mountains, oceangoing vessels, and the island of Lāna‘i surround us. An American flag flaps in the breeze, an incongruous sight in a restaurant named for and owned by British rock star Mick Fleetwood.

General Manager Eric Waddell stops by our table, nods at our cocktails and says with a mischievous smile, “It’s hard to stop at one; they’re so good!”

He’s right, but we restrain ourselves and descend the stairs to the second-floor dining room, whose embossed tin ceilings, doublehung windows, and wood paneling give such a warm, homey feel, it’s as if we’ve entered Mick’s home. In fact, all the artwork comes from his years of travel, beginning with a photo of his first one-man-band tour in the seventies, when he landed in Ghana with a four-track stereo, two batteries and a drum kit.

Fleetwood’s Chef Eric Morrissette rocks a menu showcasing seasonal ingredients from Hawai‘i to the East Coast. My first course reflects his commitment to quality ingredients: tender cauliflower and baby arugula served on a piquant caper-sunchoke purée and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. The second course pairs Fleetwood’s award-winning chardonnay with plump New Bedford scallops that have been seared to a golden caramel, lightly dusted with fennel pollen, and served alongside a sauté of earthy Pa‘uwela. Truffle oil sows the panzanella salad with the aroma of black “gold” as I dig into its roasted peppers, summer squash and burrata.

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My entrée, tender beef short ribs braised for seventy-two hours, is the best I’ve ever had.

It’s served on smoked, butter-infused polenta with an umami-rich demi reduction that has me thinking, “Morrissette, I love you to the moon and back!” Fleetwood’s took home a 2015 Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Bar, but don’t stop at the cocktail—dine there, too!

with white daikon and pink Chioggia beets paired with citrusy ponzu sauce, red shiso leaf and roasted kukui (candlenut) salt; and ‘ōpakapaka (snapper) garnished with lip-puckering liliko‘i (passion fruit), chili pepper and balanced with black sea salt.

I could stop right there . . . but instead dive into my fish du jour entrèe of onaga, a red snapper that resides at a depth of 700-plus

744 Front Street, Lahaina 808-669-6425 | FleetwoodsOnFrontSt.com

Mama’s Fish House Voted 2015 ‘Aipono Restaurant of the Year, Mama’s Fish House has been dishing up great fish since 1973. It’s hard to believe that before Floyd and Doris Christenson purchased the property, all that sat here was a rundown shack above a pristine white-sand bay. The couple transformed that shack into the quintessential South Seas setting, an open-air venue overlooking the ocean. From our table, we have a front-row seat for watching stand-up paddleboarders race past, whitewater nipping at their ankles.

Our server arrives, dressed in a bright floral mu‘umu‘u, and presents us with the first tastes of the day: ‘ahi (yellow-fin tuna) wrapped in crunchy feuilles de brick (thin, crêpelike pastry) on a Hāmākua mushroom sauce with a touch of sweet pohā (gooseberry) jam; meaty Ali‘i mushrooms sautèed in a grassy, rich olive oil and garlic, and sprinkled with Surfing Goat Dairy cheese; and Papa’s Three Fish Sashimi. Papa’s dish features ono, mildly flavored, thinly sliced and topped with a “caviar” of finger limes, lemongrass, green chili, papaya and Moloka‘i sea salt; ‘ahi, a fattier fish capped

Offering dishes such as the onaga with slices of grilled focaccia—served with a side of ocean breezes and swaying palms—Mama’s Fish House is a feast for the senses.

TOP (2): COURTESY OF FLEETWOOD’S ON FRONT ST.; BOTTOM (2): BECKY SPEERE

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Dining » DINING HIGHLIGHTS

Above: If location is everything, Merriman’s has it all. The sprawling west Maui restaurant is hugged on either side by Kapalua and Nāpili bays. Go for brunch, then stroll along the sandy beach just steps away. Left: Breakfast goes gourmet with the Keāhole lobster Benedict on a crunchy cornmeal lobster cake with jalapeño hollandaise.

799 Poho Place, Kū‘au 808-579-8488 | MamasFishHouse.com

Merriman’s Kapalua When Aston Hotels’ Chef Eric Faivre kept posting the brunch he’d had at Merriman’s on Facebook every Sunday for three weeks, I knew it had to be good. Celebrity Chef Peter Merriman took over the old Kapalua Bay Club restaurant in 2008, and with it, the view of Kapalua Bay, its white sands a striking contrast to the black lava tide pools and azure waters separating Maui from Lāna‘i and Moloka‘i.

I order a citrusy blend of fresh pineapple juice mixed with white grapefruit whose floral notes remind me of Tahitian pomelo. The drink pairs perfectly with the decadent first course: French toast fragrant with organic cinnamon from the Big Island, drenched in a rich custard, fried crisp in butter, and served with maple-syrup butter. (Now I know why Chef Eric posted that photo!)

Just as the second course arrives, I spot a pod of some fifty dolphins heading north along the coastline. Then the aroma of truffles pulls my attention back to my plate.

Merriman’s house-made cavatelli pasta has migrated from dinner onto the brunch menu recently, and the description alone was worth my trip all the way from Huelo.

Tossed with smoked bacon, Hāmākua Ali‘i mushrooms, asparagus and poached egg, and lightly drizzled with black truffle oil, it was the pièce de résistance. You might

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ask, how could pasta surpass the Keāhole lobster Benedict on its crunchy cornmeal lobster cake, smothered in the best jalapeño hollandaise I’ve ever tasted? Try them both, and decide. See you on Sunday at Merriman’s!

1 Bay Drive, Kapalua 808-669-6400 | MerrimansHawaii.com

Trilogy’s Sunset Dinner Sail A late afternoon cruise is one of my biggest joys in life. As the sun drifts toward the sea, the catamaran launches and the breeze gently caresses my face and catches my hair in its fingers. Haleakalā and the West Maui Mountains rise toward the clouds, the sunset draping the landscape in pink. As we settle into our cozy seats at tables where everyone has a view, orders for Maui Mules and Lāna‘i Tais precede platters of passed appetizers served by the happiest boat crew on the planet. We feast on smoked salmon crispini with cucumber and cream cheese; crostini topped with thinly sliced, delicately seared tataki-style beef tenderloin and caramelized Maui onions; and freshly baked rosemary breadsticks sprinkled with local ‘alaea (salt) and served with a fresh liliko‘i butter.

Captain Gabe helms tonight’s Captain’s Sunset Dinner Sail, but as the orange ball of light says aloha, a different captain is on my mind: Jim Coon, whose family launched Trilogy in the 1970s—and whose family recipe for salad dressing flavors the fresh Maui green salad I dispatch with delight. Meat lovers can choose from two entrées: sliced sirloin with cabernet demi-glace reduction, and mahimahi with lemon caper butter sauce, served on a bed of buttery garlic mashed potatoes with a side of sautéed Kula zucchini (the sweetest I’ve ever eaten), carrots and bell peppers. Both are cooked perfectly—quite a

feat, considering the distance from Chef Will Bailey’s Maui Flavors Catering kitchen.

For dessert: a trio of berries, creamy liliko‘i cheesecake, and chocolate fudge truffle is a delightful end to the meal. In the fading light of the day, we offer up a final toast to the evening as the catamaran cuts a path back to Mā‘alaea Harbor.

Mā‘alaea Harbor | 808-874-5649 SailTrilogy.com/Tour/SunsetDinner

Trilogy proves that fine dining isn’t limited to land. Their sunset dinner sail starts with smoked salmon crispini with cucumber and crostini topped with thinly sliced beef tenderloin and caramelized Maui onions.

TOP (2): COURTESY OF MERRIMAN'S KAPALUA; BOTTOM (2): BECKY SPEERE

feet and feeds on a steady diet of shrimp.

Slow cooked in Fustini’s blood-orange-infused olive oil, the fish sits atop wokked julienne of Kula cabbage, and red and yellow tomato.

Save room for the light, fresh coconut cake and Mama’s exclusive Hawai‘i estate coffees.

UNCOMPROMISING SINCE 1985

Potato scaled mahi-mahi, on a bed of grilled asparagus, potato puree, a cabernet beurre rouge, sprinkled with white truffle oil.

Founder/CEO Aaron Placourakis was raised around great food. And like all Greeks, he was instilled with the belief that “family” isn’t limited to close relatives, but includes all who are gathered around the table. It’s an approach that’s perfected by his team, who greet you at the door as a friend.

We invite you to join us. Be a part of the family. Create unforgettable memories in the most spectacular settings on Earth. And rediscover the joy of good living.

Maui’s premier seafood restaurant Happy Hour Nightly Come in and see our new private dining room 808 879-7224 | Wailea

WWW.TRISTARRESTAURANTS.COM

Spectacular dining on the beach Happy Hour Nightly Now serving breakfast 808 875-7555 | Kihei

Dining » CHEF’S KITCHEN

SMOKEY & THE BEAN Chef Chris Schobel’s homestyle recipes make his Kīhei restaurant smokin’ hot.

STORY BY BECKY SPEERE PHOTOGRAPHY BY NINA KUNA

Any barbecue joint worth its rub knows that the secret is in the sides. At Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse, Chef Chris Schobel has that covered with his brisket dry rub and chili garlic beans.

Chris Schobel is a happy-go-lucky chef who once worked as a screaming, gyrating commodities-floor trader at the New York Mercantile Exchange. He says, “I love to be in the kitchen. And when I make a mistake, I just do it over. But on the trading floor, if you screw up a trade with someone else’s $25,000. . . .” In 2004, Schobel traded

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hand and body gestures for a whisk, and graduated with honors from the Culinary Institute of America. He went on to complete a bachelor’s degree in business at Le Cordon Bleu Adelaide in South Australia, then boomeranged back to Hula Grill in Kā‘anapali, where he had externed as a Culinary Institute student. A year later, he

was promoted to executive chef at Hula Grill.

Schobel is a founding member of Growing Future Farmers, a program that provides grants to young people entering that field.

Localicious is one of the ways the program raises funds; participating restaurants designate a “Grown on Maui” salad on their menus, and contribute $1 to Future

Fat Daddy’s Brisket Dry Rub Yield 3¾ cups, enough for two 6- to 8-pound fat-trimmed briskets Prep Time 7½ hours Ingredients ¼ c. brown sugar, sifted ¼ c. black pepper, ground 1½ c. pure red chili powder (no additives) ¼ c. garlic powder ½ c. cumin, ground ½ c. paprika ½ c. salt Method Mix all ingredients in a bowl. Spread half of dry rub over each brisket, pressing and massaging into meat. Smoke over kiawe wood at 250° degrees for 7 hours. Use any remaining spice blend within six months.

Chef Chris’s Chili Garlic Beans Schobel says, “I like eight times more garlic in my recipe, so this is really garlicky. Also, it’s not thick and pasty like refried beans.

It’s done when the bean is creamy without being crunchy, or overly soft.”

Servings 12 | Prep Time 2–2½ hrs. after overnight soaking of beans, or 3–4 hours unsoaked

1 Tbsp. chili powder 2 Tbsp. garlic powder 1 Tbsp. cumin 1 Tbsp. paprika ½ tsp. black pepper 1½–2 tsp. salt, to taste

Ingredients 1 lb. pinto beans, preferably soaked ½ large onion, large dice 10 garlic cloves 1 chipotle chili in adobo 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil

Method Place onion, garlic cloves, and chipotle chili into food processor bowl and

Farmers every time someone orders it.

Schobel says, “I love Localicious. Supporting the upcoming generation of farmers is important to our economy and Maui’s sustainability.” In 2013—the same year he opened Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse—Schobel received the Maui County Farm Bureau’s Friend of Agriculture award.

I arrive at Fat Daddy’s just as two guests are leaving. One sated diner tells Schobel, “I am a serious [meat] smoker myself, and I can tell that you know what you’re doing. We’ll be back.” As they exit, Schobel turns to me with a big smile and says, “Some visitors come in three times during their stay on Maui!” It’s

no wonder that his workhorse smoker is going twenty hours a day, loaded with up to 200 pounds of spicy tri-tips, briskets, pork butts (for pulled pork sandwiches), whole fat chickens, and St. Louis-style ribs. This is a barbecue lover’s paradise.

I am so hungry, I almost order The Sampler, a half-pound each of four different meats, but I restrain myself and make a mental note for my family’s next beach outing. I order a beef brisket that’s been double smoked over kiawe wood for fourteen hours. The tender burnt ends fill the room with a smoky aroma. For sides, I’ve chosen fried and crunchy hot jalapeño hush

chop fine. Sauté in vegetable oil over medium heat till soft and translucent, about 5 minutes.

Add rest of ingredients, except the salt, stirring well. Add water to cover by 2 inches.

Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer 2 hours, making sure water is barely covering beans. Add boiling water, if needed. Add salt after 1½ hours. Check beans for tenderness. puppies, home-style chunky potato salad, and bleu-cheese-spiked Kula cabbage and green apple coleslaw. A Maui Brewing Company Lorenzini Double IPA, with hints of tangerine and blood orange, waits on the sideline in an icy, frozen glass to wash it all down.

As I dig in, I smile to think what a wise move Schobel made in exchanging the trading floor for a smokehouse.

Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse 1913 South Kīhei Road, Kīhei 879-8711 • Info@FatDaddysMaui.com Open daily 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m.

Fat & Happy Hour: 3–5 p.m.

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dining guide B = Breakfast BR = Brunch  L = Lunch  D = Dinner N = Dinner past 9pm  RR = Reservation recommended  $ = Average entreé under $15 $$ = Under $25 $$$ = Under $40  $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2015

WEST SIDE ‘Āina Gourmet Market, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2800.

Chef James McDonald oversees this deli’s menu, right down to the sun-ripened tomatoes and Maui onions grown upcountry at O’o Farm. Deli. B, L. $ Alaloa Lounge, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 RitzCarlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. This stylish bar attracts a cocktail generation as lovely as the views.

Sushi. D, N. $ Aloha Mixed Plate, 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322. Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha.

Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $ Amigo’s, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210.

Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, chile verde, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Huge portions. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ Black Rock Kitchen & Lounge, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808-921-4600. Classic steakhouse fare with an island twist. Try the 16-ounce Black Angus rib eye or fresh catch with chef’s signature farm-to-table preparations. Kid-friendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, D. $$$ Cane & Canoe, Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Kapalua Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681. The bright and lively breakfast menu includes poke fruit salad, European-style pastries and top-notch barista service.

Later, toast the sunset with Chateau d’Esclans Whispering Angel rosé and succulent grilled octopus with duck chorizo and saffron-coconut veloute. Food service at bar 3–10 p.m. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$ Castaway Café, Aston Maui Kā‘anapali Villas, 45 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9091. A casual beachfront spot for local coffee and eggs Benedict with a view. At dinner, the chockablock wine cellar dresses up the simple, satisfying fare. American.

B, L, D. $$

edamame, a juicy burger, or island fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. American, Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$

Honu Seafood & Pizza, 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390. Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$

The Coffee Store Nāpili, 5095 Nāpilihau St., Nāpili, 669-4170. Sip a cup of Kā‘anapali Peaberry or a Taste of Paradise paired with a freshly baked muffin, éclair or coconut macaroon. Coffee Shop. B, L. $

Hula Grill, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636. Dip your toes in sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy kiawe-grilled ono on fresh spinach, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music.

Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$

Cool Cat Café, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908.

Burgers, chicken, fish and more, all within a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $ Dollies Pub & Café, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Kahana, 669-0266. Hand-pressed crusts and stone ovens are just two reasons this casual restaurant and sports bar are worth sinking your teeth into.

Menu items range from Dollies cheese steak and meatball subs to Mark’s Costa Rican salad. L, D, N. $–$$ Drums of the Pacific Lū‘au, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234 Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia.

Kid-friendly. Hawaiian. D, RR. $$$$ Duke’s, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900. Imagine Old Hawai‘i at this open-air beach house while dining on crab-and macadamia-nut wontons or prime rib. Kid-friendly.

American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$ The Feast at Lele, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353. This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Hawaiian/Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Fleetwood’s on Front St., 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. (Yes, that Fleetwood.) British pub meets American restaurant. Kid-friendly. British/ American. B, L, D, RR. $$$ Frida’s Mexican Beach House, 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287. Chalupas, fresh chili agua ‘ahi, and short-rib tacos served with ocean views and fresh mixology. Latin-inspired. L, D. $–$$

Japengo, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4796. Savor delicacies like abalone sashimi, and shave your own wasabi root with a sharkskin grater. Japanese/Sushi. D, N. $$$ Joey’s Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474. Morcon pork (Filipino-Spanish influences) and raisin-studded meatloaf feature in Chef Joey’s loco moco. Try the braised short-rib pho atop house-made rice noodles, corn and sweet Filipino peppers in a rich ginger beef broth.

B, L, D. $$ Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. Kā‘anapali, 661-0011. Sunday’s brunch buffet features a huge selection of traditional and Hawaiian dishes, champagne, and Hawaiian music.

Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. BR. $$$ Kai Sushi, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. Sushi Chef Tadashi Yoshino and his team work magic with spicy tuna, uni (sea urchin) and tai (snapper). Sip unfiltered Japanese saké and enjoy the coastal view. Sushi. D. $$$ Kimo’s, 845 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4811. Savor one of the island’s best mai tais on an oceanfront lānai. Opt for sweet basil fish or the 32-oz. prime rib. Save room for Hula Pie. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D. $$ Koa’s Seaside Grill, 839 Front St., Lahaina, 6677737. The folks at Gazebo run this oceanfront eatery, and serve the same famous breakfast menu from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Plus pulled-pork sandwiches, prime rib and mahimahi. American. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$ Kobe Japanese Steak House & Oku’s Sushi Bar, 136 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 667-5555. Flying shrimp, whirling spatulas and late-night karaoke make this longtime Lahaina icon fun. Kid-friendly.

Japanese/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$

Cheeseburger in Paradise, 811 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4855. This family-friendly restaurant serves up Angus beef burgers, refreshing salads and fun mixology, all with great ocean views, live entertainment and aloha. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D, N. $$

The Gazebo, Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-5621. Mac-nut pancakes, French toast and legendary fried rice served with an ocean view. Kid-friendly. American.

B, L. $

Choice Health Bar, 1087 Limahana Pl., Lahaina, 661-7711. Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are all made with fresh local ingredients. Daily specials, and an epic entrée with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red-pepper sesame sauce.

American. B, L. $

Gerard’s, 174 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-8939.

Chef Gerard Reversade delights guests with ‘ahi stew made “just like in the Basque country.” Terrific ‘ahi tartare, perfect pastries. French. D. $$$$

Lahaina Fish Co., 831 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3472. Grab an oceanfront seat and dig into fresh mahi and sautéed sea scallops in cream sauce.

A wide selection of surf and turf, memorable tropical drinks, and a happy hour that lasts from noon to 6 p.m. L, D. $$–$$$

Honokōwai Okazuya, 3600-D L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Honokōwai, 665-0512. Plate lunches piled high with two-scoops rice and mac salad fly out the door of this tiny takeout shop. Local Mixed Plate. No credit cards. Closed Sun. L. $

Lahaina Grill, 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117. This glamorous restaurant is always on point. Sommelier Richard Olson III suggests lively wine pairings for the famed ‘ahi and foie gras. Hawai‘i Regional. D, RR. $$$$

Cliff Dive Grill, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031.

How to soak up paradise? Order Hawaiian-style spicy

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Lahaina Pizza Company, 730 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0700. Deep-dish pizza, hearty salads and sandwiches draw crowds to this relaxed hangout.

Live music nightly. American/Italian. L, D. $$ Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495. Awardwinning Chef Ryan Luckey rocks Hawai‘i-inspired flavors. Try the sesame-crusted seared ‘ahi with shiitake-mushroom-butter-soy sauce, or Korean gochujang risotto with salt-and-peppa’ mahi. Kidfriendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D, N. $$ Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600. The pies may win hearts, but the fried salad and home-baked breads also warrant repeat visits to this homey Olowalu outpost. American. B, L, D. $ Longhi’s, 888 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2288.

For breakfast at this open-air landmark, try the eggs Benedict on thick toasted French bread. For dinner, use the jalapeño cheese bread to sop up sauce served with the Shrimp Longhi. Italian. B, L, D. $$$–$$$$ LuLu’s Lahaina Surf Club & Grill. 1221 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Lahaina, 661-0808. Creative dishes range from blackened ‘ahi Benedict with Cajun hollandaise, to crispy shrimp tossed in honey-mac-nut aioli, to li hing mui barbecued-chicken flatbread.

Kid-friendly. Asian-American. B, L, D, N. $$ Māla Ocean Tavern, 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9394. Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the health-conscious and the hedonistic at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings nearly guaranteed.

Mediterranean. BR (Sat & Sun), L, D. $$ Mama’s Ribs & Rotisserie, 5095 Nāpilihau St., Nāpili, 665-6262. See South Shore listing.

Maui Fish & Pasta, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-0668. Alex Stanislaw helms this oceanfront eatery. Try Mama Kodama’s meatloaf topped with two poached eggs, crispy onions and gravy on rice; homemade fettuccine with pan-seared mahi, or the outrageous dragon sushi. Asian Fusion. B, L, D. $$$ Maui Sugar Shop, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 662-0033. Delectable gluten-free, paleo and vegan delights such as quiches, Belgian waffles, muffins, cakes and more at this bakery café. Bakery. B, L. $ Merriman’s Kapalua, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 669-6400. Dramatic views of the golden crescent beach and islands on the horizon accent the largely organic and local menu. Hawai‘i Regional. BR Sundays, L, D, RR. $$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana, 669-9010. Sushi served on-site, takeout or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and house specialty rolls. Japanese. L, D. $$ Ocean Pool Bar & Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Kick back with a tropical cocktail and pupu (appetizer) beside the pool; the paparazzi should be there shortly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2015

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dining guide Old Lāhaina Lū‘au, 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-1998. Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian.

Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance.

Open bar. Kid-friendly. Hawaiian. D, RR. $$$$ Pacific’O, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341.

Owner Louis Coulombe’s decadent fish tacos and bahn mi sandwiches are memorable lunch fare. For dinner, try the lobster ravioli or coconut-dusted mahi with Thai-lemongrass-peanut sauce on black mochi rice.

Spectacular oceanfront dining. Hawai‘i Regional.

L, D. $$$$ Penne Pasta, 180 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 6616633. Dig into flavorful, affordable pasta dishes while people-watching from this cozy spot tucked down a Lahaina side street. Kid-friendly. Italian. L, D, N. $$ Pi Artisan Pizzeria, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 6670791. Handcrafted pizzas baked in kiawe-woodburning ovens. Build your own pizza with local produce and ingredients like homemade Italian sausage and fresh tomato sauce. Italian. L, D. $–$$ Pineapple Grill, 200 Kapalua Dr., Kapalua, 669-9600. Our favorites: pistachio- and wasabipea-crusted ‘ahi steak (rare), served with coconut forbidden rice. Or try the tender, Asian-style braised short ribs. L, D, N. $$$ Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636. Front-and-center views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Pizza Paradiso Mediterranean Grill, 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929.

Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a perfect side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza.

Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$ Plantation House Restaurant, 2000 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua, 669-6299. Rock your inner Cajun with Rising Star Chef Jojo Vasquez’s Kaua‘i shrimp ètouffée, prepared with Adoboloco’s Hamajang hot sauce and scallion-polenta cake with lime crème. Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, L, D. $$$ Prison Street Pizza, 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332. Traditional East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Captivating! Italian/Pizza.

L, D. $ Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Island cuisine speaks Italian! Try the award-winning Moloka‘i sweet potato gnocchi, or succulent, sweet Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End the evening with chocolate mac-nut semifreddo. Closed Tues–Wed. Italian. D. $$$ Relish Burger Bistro, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525.

All-natural Kobe beef burgers, fish sandwiches, salads with island greens, and huli huli grilled chicken breast, served poolside in an open-air setting. Kid-friendly.

American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Roy’s, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999. Celebrity Chef Roy Yamaguchi rocks vibrant local fish and produce, prepared with Asian attention to detail. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Lahaina Center, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 661-8815. Steaks worthy of

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devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earn the Ruth’s Chris chain devoted fans. This restaurant doesn’t stray from the flock. Several tables overlook the harbor. American. D, N. $$$$ Sale Pepe, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667.

Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads are highlights on a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta tossed with fresh kale and Italian sausage—like Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian. D. $$ Sangrita Grill + Cantina, Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 662-6000. South of the Border goes upper crust with achiote-marinated ono grilled Yucatan style; fig-mole short ribs; and seafood Veracruz with shrimp, octopus, and fresh fish simmered in a tomato-Spanish-olive sauce. Mexican. L, D. $–$$ Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286. D.K. Kodama’s wildly popular restaurant draws lines late into the night. Small and action-packed, this classy sushi bar is the place to try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi.

D, N, RR. $$$ The Sea House Restaurant, Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 Lower Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 6691500. Start your day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp while the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammy-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack-key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Shark Pit Food Truck, 78 Ulupono St., Lahaina, 298-7776. Kabayaki meatball sub, steak or spicy shrimp tacos with Korean aioli, USDA Prime beef burgers and fresh catch on a taro brioche bun.

Food Truck. L. $ Slappy Cakes, 3350 Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Kā‘anapali, 419-6600. Cook your own pancakes with your favorite toppings, or try weekly specials like steak poke rice bowl. All meat and dairy are hormone-free; pancake/pastry is scratch-baked. American/Local.

B, L (D Friday–Sunday). $$ Son’z Steakhouse, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, line-caught mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/Steak. D, N. $$$$ Star Noodle, 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 667-5400. Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian.

L, D. $$ Sugar Cane Maui, 736 Front St., Lahaina, 214-6662. French master chef Philippe Chin reimagines island cuisine with ‘ahi nachos on sesamespinach salad, Asian BBQ short ribs with purple yams, fresh tuna steak on wasabi mashed potatoes and more. Asian Fusion. L, D. $–$$$ Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111. The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $

Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808-921-4600.

For starters, try the “Oyster Dan”—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko atop a bed of spinach. Then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate. Japanese/ Steak. D, RR. $$$ Thai Chef, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814.

This small, well-loved restaurant keeps West Side fans coming back for more with its commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $ Trilogy Excursion’s Captain’s Sunset Dinner Sail, Mā‘alaea Harbor, 661-4743. Board a luxury catamaran for Chef Bailey’s four-course dinner.

Choose from rosemary-garlic-crusted steak on a bed of roasted garlic cabernet demi-glace, fresh wild-caught mahi mahi with lemon caper butter, or vegetarian pasta. Open bar with cocktails, Maui Brewery and wine selections. American. D. RR. $$$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 790 Front St., Lahaina. Homemade tropical-flavored syrups like liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart.

Additional West Maui locations: 819 Front St., Lahaina; and in the Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. Kid-friendly. $ ‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos.

Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, D. $$$

CENTRAL Amigo’s, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 872-9525. See West Side listing.

Bistro Casanova, 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 873-3650. This “downtown” bistro branches out from its Upcountry sister, adding paella for two, fresh-cut french fries, and burrata caprese to the menu. Mediterranean. L, D. $-$$ Café O’Lei, The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073. Macadamia-nutcrusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites, served in a setting overlooking a links-style golf course and the West Maui Mountains.

American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Da Kitchen, Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782. Mo’ biggah, mo’ betta! The Hawaiian plate feeds three normal appetites or one sumo-sized eater. Plate lunch favorites like chicken katsu, tempura fish, and Korean mixed plate won’t leave you wanting. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate.

L, D. $ Farmacy Health Bar, 12 Market St., Wailuku, 866-4312. Pono means excellence, which perfectly describes this organic eatery’s pono bowl: kale salad atop quinoa and tofu. The taro veggie burgers and the poi açai bowl with fresh fruit are a delicious spin on a local staple. Call in your order to expedite service. Maui-style, Takeout Only. B, L. $ Leis Family Class Act Restaurant, UH–Maui College, 310 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 9843280. Voted one of the top 100 restaurants in the US by OpenTable.com diners. The three-course prix

a Big Mahalo Lifetime Achievement Recipient Chef Paris Nabavi

Gold ‘Aipono Award winner “Best Mexican Restaurant” 2015

Lunch + Happy Hour + Dinner / Fairway shops in kA'Anapali sangritagrill .com +

+ 8 0 8 .6 6 2 .6 0 0 0

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lahaina fried soup yakitori

pahole salad

star udon

garlic noodles

singapore noodles

steamed pork buns hapa ramen

ahi avo pad thai

sake cocktails

fixe menu prepared by Maui Culinary Academy staff and students changes weekly. Limited bookings, Wednesdays and Fridays. BYOB. L, RR. $$$ Marco’s Grill & Deli, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-4446. One of the best vodka rigatoni dishes you may ever eat, and the bleu-cheese chopped salad with smoked bacon is crunchy and delicious. Italian.

B, L, D. $$ Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-2877. Eclectic artwork and brightly painted tables decorate this popular gathering spot. At Happy Cappy Hour, 2 p.m. to closing, cappuccinos are special price. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Maui Fresh Streatery, 137 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 344-7929. Chef Kyle rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare.

Menu changes every few weeks. Food Truck. L. $ Paradise Market, 207 E. Wakea Ave., Kahului, 877-6767. Filipino dishes served plate-lunch style: lechon kawali (roasted pork with fresh-chopped tomato salsa), pancit, bangus (milk fish), coconut sticky-rice desserts and more. Filipino. B, L, D. $ Las Piñatas, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 877-8707.

The home of the famous Kitchen Sink burrito, plus tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas . . . and a self-serve salsa bar. Ole! Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ Ruby’s Diner, 275 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 248-7829. Classic burgers, all-American sandwiches, deluxe shakes and malts in a nostalgic diner setting.

Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D. $ A Saigon Cafe, 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 2439560. Squeeze into a booth beside local lawmakers and order Buddha rolls and lemongrass curry. The comedic servers don’t miss a beat. Vietnamese. L, D. $ Sam Sato’s, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2447124. This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L. $ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku.

Wailuku Coffee Company, 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259. Espresso, ice cream and sandwiches in a relaxed setting. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525.

Fire dancers ignite the excitement, and hula dancers sway as you enjoy a Polynesian feast. Kid-friendly.

Hawaiian/Local. D. RR. $$$$ Whole Foods Market, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 872-3310. All things fresh and healthy.

Order from the deli or construct your own meal from the salad and hot-food bars. Get it to go, or dine here inside or out. B, L, D. $

UPCOUNTRY, NORTH SHORE, HĀNA Café Des Amis, 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-6323.

Savory crêpes are served with wild greens and a dollop of sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with

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chutney and raita, Indian yogurt sauce. Kid-friendly.

Mediterranean. B, L, D. $ Café Mambo, 30 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8021.

For lunch or dinner, share the steak, tofu, or duck fajitas, served with a lazy Susan piled high with tasty condiments; or grab packed lunches for the long trip to Hāna. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $$ Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli, 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220. Order a tartufo pizza or carbonara pasta at this Upcountry institution, and stay for the night’s entertainment.

Visiting musicians make the dance floor one of the island’s hottest. Kid-friendly. Italian. B, L, D. $$ Colleen’s at the Cannery, 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211. Sink into a comfy booth and enjoy a roasted eggplant sandwich on homemade bread.

The pizza is a well-loved standard. Kid-friendly.

American. B, L, D. $-$$.

Flatbread Company, 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989. Big booths, charity nights, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies have made this a North Shore institution. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$ Grandma’s Coffee House, 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140. The eggs Benedict and made-from-scratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion. American/Coffeehouse. B, L, Snacks. $$$$$

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Hāli‘imaile General Store, 900 Hāli‘imaile Rd., Hāli‘imaile, 572-2666. Chef Bev Gannon dishes up fresh fish, local meats, and regional produce drenched in complex sauces. The towering sashimi appetizer is legendary, as is Bev’s crab dip. Hawai‘i Regional.

L, D. $$$$

JOURNEY BEYOND

Makawao Steak House, 3612 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-8711. Charbroiled steaks come with baked beans and focaccia bread. Start with the signature onion soup topped with billowy puff pastry.

Steak. D. $$

Joe’s Nuevo Latino is a celebration of food inspired by Latino communities around the world. Come experience an explosion of authentic Latin flavors.

MEXICO

Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488. Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine.

Every detail evokes old-time island hospitality, from the walkway’s Escheresque gecko tiles to the mahi-mahi steamed in traditional lū‘au leaves.

Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, RR. $$$$ Market Fresh Bistro, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-4877. Chef Justin Pardo brings a passion for sustainable food to this courtyard gem. Try a breakfast frittata or pan-roasted crab cakes with corn succotash.

Dinner served Thursday through Saturday. Call for dates on special farm dinners. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Milagro’s, 3 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8755. The corner of Baldwin and Hāna Highway can’t be beat for people-watching. Sample a variety of fine tequilas and dig into ‘ahi tacos topped with a sweet-spicy salsa. Mexican. L, D. $$ Nuka, 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939.

Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with the paper-thin fried gobo chips, then move on to ‘ahi tataki with house-special ponzu sauce. Tempura shrimp udon is light and crispy. Save room for black-sesame or green-tea ice cream. Japanese. D. $$–$$$

JOESMAUI.COM | 808-875-7767 |

131 Wailea Ike Place, Wailea (Located above Wailea Tennis Club)

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dining guide O’o Farm, 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour.

Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and freshly roasted coffee. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted vegetables and dessert. Maui Comfort Food. B, L. $$$$ Pā‘ia Fishmarket, 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030.

The huge slabs of fresh fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the long line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $ Polli’s Mexican Restaurant, 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-7808. The sign outside says, “Come in and eat, or we’ll both starve!” Follow that advice to find entrees like kitchen-sink burritos and grilled carne asada plates with refried beans and Spanish rice.

L, D. $$ La Provence, 5355 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313.

The glass case overflows with perfect croissants, fruit tarts, and arguably the world’s best mango-blueberry scones. On Sundays, muscle past Kula’s long-distance cyclists to order a Benedict or salmon-pesto crepe.

Bakery. B, BR Weekends. $ Thai Food by Pranee, 5050 Uakea Rd., Hāna. No phone, no website, no worries. This hole-in-the-wall is worth seeking out for its crispy ‘ōpakapaka with green mango salad alone. Daily specials, generous portions, cash only. Thai. L. $

SOUTH SHORE Amigo’s, 41 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 879-9952. See West Side listing.

Bistro Molokini, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Keiki as well as their parents will be satisfied at this casual openair eatery. Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh local ingredients. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $$$ Botero Bar, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures that surround it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays—when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20.

Cocktails. L, D, N. $ Café O’Lei, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368.

See Central listing.

Caffe Ciao Deli, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Healthy vegetarian fare, deli sandwiches and spectacular desserts abound at this take-out or eat-in deli.

Espresso drinks, baked goods and house-made gelato, too. American/Italian. B, L, D. $$ Capische?, Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224. Fresh, handmade pastas include kabocha gnocchi; strozzapretti carbonara comes with house-smoked bacon and Maui farm egg; lamb shanks are served on lemon risotto in a romantic garden setting. Italian. D. $$$$ Chez Mēmē Bistro & Bakery, 115 Kio Loop, Kīhei, 879-5425. Mango-nectar mimosas quench the morning thirst as you dive into tender brioche French

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toast, or a ham-and-Gruyère baguette sandwich for lunch. French-American. B, L. $ Coconuts Fish Café, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979. Fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers, fish and chips. Frances’s famous cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart.

American. L, D. $$ Cow Pig Bun, 535 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 8758100. If a Brandt premium beef burger slathered in foie gras butter, smokey bourbon-bacon jam and blue cheese makes you want to say, “Moo!” this is the place.

Try Aaron’s cocktail with allspice liqueur, fresh lime and bourbon. Maui-style Comfort Food. L, D, N. $$ Cuatro, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-1110. Latin and Pacific Rim flavors mingle at this pocket-sized restaurant. Try spicy ‘ahi nachos or a “Maui-terranian” fish—dressed in basil beurre blanc, salsa, and balsamic syrup. Latin/Pacific Rim. D. $$$ Da Kitchen, Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782. See Central listing.

Duo, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Duo reinvents the classic “surf and turf.” Japanese Kobe tenderloin (the real thing) and dry-aged rib eye are a carnivore’s delight. Choose a strong wine to match your meat’s performance. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$$$ Eskimo Candy Seafood Market & Deli, 2665 Wai Wai Pl., Kīhei, 879-5686. Locals come here for the rice bowl topped with poke mixes like shoyu, spicy wasabi and furikake. Fresh opah fish and chips with cabbage coleslaw. Seafood, Deli. Local. L, D. $-$$ Fabiani’s Pizzeria & Bakery, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888. Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with locally harvested tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made pork-sausage meatballs. Italian. B, L, D. $$ Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711. What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked 15 hours over fragrant kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy with sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans, and two cabbage slaws: one sweet-tart, the other with blue cheese and apples. American. L, D, N. $–$$ Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. For lunch, enjoy vegetarian quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, D. $$$$ Five Palms, 2960 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2607.

Watch the whales cruise by and enjoy lobster-tempura sushi and baked artichokes—half-price from 3 to 6 p.m. Breakfast is generously served until 2:30 p.m.

American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Four Seasons Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. D, N, RR. $$$$ Gannon’s, 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 8758080. Order drinks at the Red Bar, then enjoy Chef Beverly Gannon’s fine comfort food: maple-vinaigrettesweetened chicken salad, or venison atop Parmesan risotto. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$

Just steps from the water’s edge.

Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!

Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com

The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours.

505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com

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dining guide Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8751234. If fresh island prawns in Thai ginger, tomato broth and tapioca pearls, or brioche- and lemongrasscrusted rack of lamb doesn’t make you want to dance the hula, the tender butter lettuce, Cabot white Cheddar cheese, Asian pears, and candied macadamia nuts tossed in a mustard vinaigrette will.

Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$ Joe’s Nuevo Latino, 131 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 875-7767. Chef Gary Johnson spices up crispy pork shanks with chipotle black beans and serves them with cool jicama-lime slaw. The signature Peruvian mixto ceviche (one of three ceviches) pairs well with a Rosa Roja cocktail made with Peligroso silver tequila, grapefruit, lime, and three-flower syrup. Cool hang out. Latin. D. $$-$$$ Joy’s Place, 1993 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9258.

Brilliant collard-green wraps; sandwiches on thick bread; and awesome, daily made soups are just a few of the reasons to scout out this humble but bright jewel.

American/Vegetarian. B, L. $–$$ Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Chef Isaac Bancaco creates seasonal dishes that change weekly, such as lobster bathed in vanilla-cream reduction, watermelon salad with Surfing Goat Dairy feta, and nuggets of foie gras malasadas. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$ Kīhei Caffe, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230.

Tasty, egg scrambles, house-baked pastries, fish with

rice, and fresh juices lend you strength for catching waves across the street at Cove Park. Kid-friendly.

American. B, L. $

handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppini or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna. American/Italian. L, D, N. $$

Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer, and “On the Rock”—three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, D. RR. $$$

The Market by Capische, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 879-2433. Homemade breads and pastas, salads to go, and sandwiches like the Haole Hoagie: pepper-crusted turkey on sourdough with red-dragon cheese and cumin aioli. Full barista service features coffee drinks sweetened with fresh-pressed sugarcane juice, and the cheese is made on Maui. L, D. $$

Longhi’s Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883. Stop in for a crisp pinot grigio and a Longhi Longhi Longhi salad (that’s its real name)—crisp romaine tossed with reggiano cheese, lemon-feta vinaigrette, and anchovies. Italian. B, L, D. $$$ Māla Wailea, Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8759394. The brunch buffet includes the Mala Benny (with prosciutto, lamb sausage, or wild mushrooms), omelets and chilaquiles. Mediterranean. B, D. $$$ Mama’s Ribs & Rotisserie, 1819 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7755. Succulent baby back ribs and hearty rotisserie chicken, plus daily-made sides like creamy coleslaw, mac salad and BBQ baked beans.

Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $ Manoli’s Pizza Company, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499. The latest offering by Tri-Star Restaurant Group, Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with

Matteo’s Osteria, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 8798466. Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade. Or opt for the Tuscan kale-and-hemp salad with lemon-honeymustard dressing. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Maui Thai Bistro, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8745605. Fragrant with kaffir lime leaves, the tom yum shrimp-fried rice just might become your favorite. Or try the green-mango salad with crispy fish, then finish with house-made black sesame ice cream. Curries are made to order with fresh herbs and spices. Thai. L, D. $–$$ Memphis Belle Coffee House, 1794 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4091. Serious coffee and fresh-baked goodies to rev you up, morning or afternoon. Healthy papaya yogurt cups, bacon-brioche donuts, and the Black Market Cronut: croissant dough with dark chocolate glaze. Coffee House, Bakery. B, L. $ MiGRANT, Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9394.

Chef Sheldon Simeon says, “Come my house. Eat!” At his “house,” MiGRANT, the Top Chef finalist prepares tender and flavorful hanger steak, pan-roasted ‘ahi belly, and spicy “AY KUDESH!” noodles. Half-off happy hour menu 4–6 p.m. Filipino/Asian. D. $$$$ Monkeypod Kitchen, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322. Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen.

For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and banana-cream pie. Hawai‘i-Regional/American. L, D, N. $$ Morimoto Maui, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Iron Chef’s Masaharu Morimoto combines signature and Maui-centric dishes such as rib-eye beef burgers lobster roll sandwiches.

Dinner catches fire with prix fixe omakase. Handcrafted mixology and a dazzling selection of sakés. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $$$$ Nick’s Fishmarket, Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-7224. Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars.

Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. D, RR. $$$$ Outback Steakhouse, 281 Pi‘ikea Ave., Kīhei, 879-8400. Personable servers, steaks and shrimp hot off the “barbie” and a menu just for “joeys” (kids) make eating an adventure at this Aussie-themed chain restaurant. Kid-friendly. Steak. L, D, N. $$ Roasted Chiles, Azeka Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357. Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed

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with tomatillo cream sauce. Sip on giant margaritas and fresh mixology. Mexican. L, D. $-$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880. See West Side listing.

Saltimbocca, 300 Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 2433463. Savor crispy ravioli stuffed with lamb, ricotta and mint; tagiatelle with prawns, asparagus and mushrooms in truffle cream sauce; pumpkin ravioli; or carne platter for two with pork chop, veal piccata, osso bucco and risotto. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004. See West Side listing.

Sarento’s on the Beach, 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555. Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, D. RR. $–$$$ South Shore Tiki Lounge, Kīhei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-6444. Gourmet pizza, burgers, salads, and several vegetarian items round out this hip bar’s menu. American. L, D, N. $ Spago, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Chef Cameron Lewark’s ‘ōpakapaka sashimi and perfectly seared Kobe beef match the trendsetting wine list note for note. Spectacular sunsets may as well be on the menu.

Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Thailand Cuisine, 1819 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-0839. Gracious waitstaff welcome you with a steaming pot of vanilla tea. Sticky rice served in a woven Thai basket complements the flavorful red duck, lobster, or tofu curries. Thai. L, D. $–$$ Three’s Bar & Grill, 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133. Eggs Benedict served six ways, including blackened seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib.

For lunch, try the Peruvian pork tacos, Three’s signature ramen, and green-dragon sushi roll; for dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak. Pacific Rim/Southwest. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983. Who guessed a clothing company could deliver mean pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, D, N. $–$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei. See West Side listing.

ISLAND OF LĀNA‘I Coffee Works, 604 Ilima St., Lāna‘i City, 808-5656962. Fruity açai bowls, pastries and espresso drinks offer a bright start to your day. Plus light lunch fare, Italian sodas, and Internet access. Café. B, L. $ Lāna‘i City Grille, Hotel Lāna‘i, 828 Lāna‘i Ave., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-7211. Located in a historic 1920s building, the grille offers a menu that will cure your big-city blues, like panko-ginger-crusted mahi on shiitake-mushroom risotto with soy beurre blanc.

Closed Mon.–Tues. American. L, D. RR. $$$ Find more listings at MauiMagazine.net/Dining.

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calendar

WHAT’S HAPPENING WHERE, WHEN AND WITH WHOM

From left: Michelle Branch, July 2 | Nā Hōkū Hou!, July 11 (top) | July 11, Talk Story on the Land | July 3-4 Makawao Rodeo

DAILY

Native Plant Guided Tour Maui Nui Botanical Gardens 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului Brochures for self-guided walking tours are included with the price of admission; audio tour wands are available to rent; and docent-led group tours are $10 per person (by appointment only). All tours cover the natural history, conservation and ancient uses of Native Hawaiian and Polynesian-introduced plants.

249-2798; mnbg.org

ONGOING

Meet the Artists Lahaina Arts Society’s Banyan Tree Gallery Get up close and personal as local artists demonstrate their work and talk story about their latest creations.

10 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays.

THROUGH JULY 18

Sound Installation Schaefer International Gallery, MACC French artist-composer Céleste Boursier-Mougenot creates works that explore the potential of common objects as a means of music.

THROUGH JULY 21

Heart of the Hui Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao This biennial showcase will highlight works by Hui No‘eau students and faculty. Gallery open 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Saturday. HuiNoeau.com

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Michelle Branch Castle Theater, MACC This Grammy Award-winning singer and songwriter will serenade Maui audiences. 7:30 p.m.

FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES Each week, a different Maui town hosts music, artists’ demos, children’s activities and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m. It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike.

Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com

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WHERE IT’S AT

Lāna‘i Pineapple Festival Dole Park, Lāna‘i Lāna‘i’s celebration of its plantation heritage features pineapple eating and cooking contests, vendors and local performers, and concludes with a fireworks show on July 4. 3-9 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Admission is free.

LanaiPineappleFestival.com Obon Festival Each weekend in summer, a different Buddhist temple on Maui invites everyone to share in this tradition of honoring the ancestors with dance, taiko drumming, food and festivities. Call individual temples for details, or visit MauiMagazine.com/EverydayMaui for complete schedule.

Jul 3 Jul 10-11 Jul 17-18 Jul 24-25 Jul 31-Aug 1 Aug 7-8 Aug 15 Aug 29

Lahaina Jodo Mission 661-4304 Pā‘ia Mantokuji Mission 579-8051 Kahului Hongwanji Mission 871-4732 Makawao Hongwanji Mission 572-7229 Wailuku Hongwanji Mission 244-0406 Lahaina Hongwanji Mission 661-0640 Kahului Jodo Mission 871-4911 Kula Shofukuji Mission 661-0466

Lahaina Arts Society Lahaina Courthouse 648 Wharf St., Lahaina 661-0111 • LahainaArts.com Maui Arts & Cultural Center (MACC) One Cameron Way, Kahului 242-SHOW (7469) • MauiArts.org CHANGE HAPPENS. Sometimes after we go to press. Please check beforehand to confirm events are happening as listed.

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& 1112; AUGUST 12 & 2123

Fine Art Fair Banyan Tree Park 648 Wharf St., Lahaina Browse paintings, ceramics, photography, jewelry, carvings and more under the banyan tree next to the Old Lahaina Courthouse. Sponsored by Lahaina Arts Society. 9 a.m.–5 p.m.

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AUGUST 2

MAKAWAO RODEO Oskie Rice Arena 80 Ohaoha Pl., Makawao July 3–4 Saddle up for this annual Fourth of July tradition. The state’s top cowboys and cowgirls compete in bull riding, steer chasing, calf roping and more. For details, contact the Maui Roping Club at 808-357-3524.

Featured Artist Lahaina Arts Society’s Banyan Tree Gallery Explore artist Podge Elvenstar’s whimsical paintings inspired by animals and life on Maui.

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AUGUST 2

The Addams Family Historic ‘Īao Theater 68 N. Market St., Wailuku Charles Addams’ weird and wonderful family come to life in this musical comedy directed by Michael Pulliam. Fridays and Saturdays 7:30 p.m.; Sundays 3 p.m. 242-6969; MauiOnStage.com

11 Jul 3, Aug 7 Jul 10, Aug 14 Jul 17, Aug 21 Jul 24, Aug 28 Jul 31

First Friday Wailuku Second Friday Lahaina Third Friday Makawao Fourth Friday Kīhei Fifth Friday Lāna‘i

Nā Hōkū Hou! Yokouchi Pavilion, MACC Enjoy the best contemporary Hawaiian music as current and past Nā Hōkū Hanohano Award winners perform. 6 p.m.

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Talk Story on the Land Waihe‘e Coastal Dunes and Wetlands Refuge Join Hawaiian Islands Land Trust on this informative hike led by Scott Fisher, director of conservation for

MIDDLE TOP: AUBREY HORD; RIGHT: JOSE MORALES

JULY

Make cherished memories at Maui’s most exciting lu‘au!

Immerse yourself in an evening of Polynesian culture with authentic songs, chants and dramatic dances, including the three-man Samoan fire-knife dance!

• Feast on kalua pig and traditional island specialties • Learn to hula with our skilled dancers • Enjoy local crafts and an island wear fashion show “This is a classy lu‘au - excellent food, wonderful service and a most enjoyable show. Our family really enjoyed it. We highly recommend it.”

- TripAdvisor

For reservations and a FREE GIFT visit www.drumsofthepacificmaui.com and enter Special Offer Code NOKAOI. Or call Hyatt Concierge at 808.667.4727.

200 NOHEA KAI DRIVE KA’ANAPALI

Free Gift Offer available with online reservations only. A Tihati Production. The trademark HYATT and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2015 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.

with one of Expeditions eco-friendly, USCG certified, daily cruises.

Snorkel, Hike, Drive, Golf or just Lounge on Lana‘i with Expeditions!

Play the “Manele Golf Course” or the “Koele Golf Course”* on Lana‘i Golf Packages include roundtrip transportation from Lahaina on Expeditions, ground transportation on Lana‘i and golf at either course.

Lahaina Harbor Departs for Lana‘i at

Manele Harbor Departs for Maui at

6:45 am • 9:15 am • 12:45 pm 3:15 pm • 5:45 pm

8:00 am • 10:30 am • 2:00 pm 4:30 pm • 6:45 pm

Sarah Cahill, July 13| Sesame Street Live Let’s Dance, July 24–26

the Hawaiian Islands Land Trust. Explore the wetlands and view the sand dunes and shoreline on the 277acre conserved property. 9 a.m.-noon. Reservations required. 244-5263; hilt.org

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& AUGUST 16

Maalaea route temporarily suspended • *Koele Golf Course closed for renovations

Blue‘Aina Reef Cleanups Lahaina Harbor 675 Wharf Street, Lahaina Join Trilogy Excursions and Surfrider Foundation and help clean up the reef. $25 donation benefits local nonprofit conservation organizations. For info and reservations, call the Hawai‘i National Marine Sanctuary Foundation, 875-9325 or 879-2818, ext. 239.

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Sarah Cahill Keawala‘i Congregational Church 5300 Mākena Road, Mākena This San Francisco-based pianist will perform a free concert featuring the works of Ruth Crawford Seeger, Dina Koston, Ursula Mamlok and others. 7:30 p.m.

EbbAndFlowArts.org

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& AUGUST 20

Picnic for Poki Ka‘ahumanu Church 103 South High Street, Wailuku Local musicians serenade audiences during this free outdoor concert series. See Arts & Leisure page 28.

17-26

Oliver!

Seabury Hall, A‘ali‘ikūhonua Creative Arts Center 480 Olinda Rd., Makawao The students of Maui Academy of Performing Arts (MAPA) present this classic musical about a young boy navigating Victorian London’s underworld in his search for home, family and love. 808-244-6273; MauiAcademy.org

Sarn Oliver and Friends Seabury Hall, A‘ali‘ikūhonua Creative Arts Center 480 Olinda Rd., Makawao Ebb & Flow Arts presents members of San Francisco Symphony in a free program of string quartets by Claude Debussy, Henri Dutilleux, Sarn Oliver and others. 5 p.m. EbbAndFlowArts.org

24-25

The MayJah Rayjah Event Lawn, MACC Island and reggae music festival featuring Jamaica’s Tarrus Riley and Common Kings of California, along with other local favorites. 6 p.m.

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MARIANNE LA ROCHELLE

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calendar on the official Lahaina poster. A collection of juried entries will be on display from August 4-September 7, and winners will be announced at a reception from 6-8 p.m. August 7. Sponsored by LahainaTown Action Committee and Lahaina Arts Society.

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Maui Craft Session Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa’s Ocean Lawn 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali Make a toast to the craft industries of spirits, beer and cigars during this evening highlighting industries rooted in small batch production. 6 p.m. SheratonMaui.com/Events

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Maui Calls Yokouchi Pavilion/A&B Ampitheater, MACC The MACC’s signature fundraiser features live entertainment, gourmet treats prepared by local chefs and paired with premium wines. Bid on hundreds of items, from art and jewelry to golf and travel packages, during live and silent auctions. 6 p.m.

24-26

Sesame Street Live Let’s Dance Castle Theater, MACC Fans of all ages are invited to be a part of the show as favorite Sesame Street friends join the crowd on the dance floor. 7 p.m. Friday; 10:30 a.m., 2 and 5:30 p.m. Saturday; 1 and 4:30 p.m. Sunday.

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The Society of Seven Castle Theater, MACC After an absence of 15 years, this Hawai‘i favorite returns with founding and new members. 7:30 p.m.

AUGUST

1-2

Maui Women’s Invitational The King Kamehameha Golf Club 2500 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū Ladies are invited to take a swing for a good cause. The tournament includes two rounds of golf, a continental breakfast and an awards banquet. Proceeds benefit American Cancer Society’s Hope Lodge Hawai‘i. Daily 8 a.m. shotgun start.

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Revitalizing ‘Ulu from Root to Fruit Maui Nui Botanical Gardens 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului Ian Cole from the National Tropical Botanical Garden’s Breadfruit Institute will lead a discussion on the cultural history of ‘ulu (breadfruit), planting, harvesting and preparing. An ‘ulu-based tasting menu is included. 9 a.m.-noon. Reservations are requried.

249-2798, mnbg.org

21-30

Evita Castle Theater, MACC Hawai’i’s top-selling female vocalist of all time, Amy Hānaiali‘i Gilliom returns to her roots in musical

Experience Maui

Without Breaking Your Budget

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Maui Masterworks Festival Castle Theater, MACC Maui Chamber Orchestra presents this all-Mozart concert that features more than 100 singers and four soloists. 3 p.m.

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-SEPTEMBER 7

‘AIPONO WINE DINNER The Wines of France Andaz Studio Kitchen 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea Friday, August 21 Andaz Maui executive chef Isaac Bancaco teams with Ka‘ana Kitchen chef de cuisine Ritchard Cariaga for a culinary celebration featuring innovative fair and fine wines from France. Sponsored by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi in collaboration with Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, ‘Aipono Wine Dinners benefit Maui Culinary Academy. Dinner 6:30 p.m. $125. Reservations: 243-1234

s

MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

Lahaina Poster Contest Lahaina Arts Society’s Old Jail Gallery Each year, artists compete to display their work

Largest Selection of Vacation Condo Rentals in West Maui.

• Lahaina • Ka‘anapali • Napili • Kapalua Your Perfect Maui Mau Ma aui ui Getaway Get Ge eta taw awa way ay is i Wa W Waiting. aitin aiti itin

Call 1-855-836-0619 and Book Your Stay Today! or visit

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2015

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Featuring all the things you love about Maui County and MORE! Saturday, November 7, 2015 • 8am - 4:30pm Maui Arts & Cultural Center, Kahului Join us for Maui County’s BIGGEST products show showcasing a wide variety of made in Maui County products from local vendors, including food, produce, arts, crafts, jewelry, fashions, gifts, and collectibles. Plus, food trucks, a fashion show, demonstrations, and much more! Public admission: $5, children 12 and under free!

Special Buyers Preview on Friday, November 6th, 2-6pm. $35 per person.

Tickets are available at the MACC Box Office by calling (808) 242-SHOW (7469) or purchase online at mauiarts.org. Space is limited.

Connect with us!

Made In Maui County Festival

For more information, please visit us at www.MadeInMauiCountyFestival.com or call 808.270.7710.

@ MIMCF2015

#MadeinMauiCountyFestival

theatre to perform the title role of Eva Peron in MAPA LIVE’s production of this iconic rock musical. Fridays and Saturdays 7:30 p.m.; Sundays 2 p.m.

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Hāna Cultural Center Ho‘olaule‘a 4974 Uakea Road, Hāna This free event features food booths, live music, hula performances, hands-on cultural activities, traditional Hawaiian games, a petting zoo, vendors and more.

See Arts & Leisure page 28.

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‘Uala Workshop Maui Nui Botanical Gardens 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului Aurora Kagawa-Vivani will lead a talk about the cultural importance of ‘uala (Hawaiian sweet potato), traditional farming practices, and her work to discover which varieties grown today in Hawai‘i represent ancient cultivars. Recipes will be shared using all parts of the plant. 9 a.m.-noon. Reservations are requried.

249-2798; mnbg.org

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Talk Story on the Land Waihe‘e Coastal Dunes & Wetlands Refuge Explore Waihe‘e by moonlight on an informative hike led by Scott Fisher, director of conservation for the Hawaiian Islands Land Trust. Light snacks and refreshments will be provided. $25 suggested donation. 6-9 p.m. Reservations required. 244-5263, hilt.org

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Ke Alahele Education Fund Dinner & Auction The Fairmont Kea Lani 4100 Wailea Alanui, Wailea Maui Economic Development Board’s fundraiser supports programs in science, technology, engineering and math for students throughout Maui County.

A reception and silent auction starts at 4:30 p.m.

Dinner and live auction at 6:30 p.m. Reservations and details: 875-2300; medb.org

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444 Hana Highway, Suite D, Kahului, Hawaii 96732 808 871 1006 | Toll-free 888 243 8220 fimg-hawaii@fimg.net | www.fimg.net

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Native Hawaiian Plant and Taro Sale Maui Nui Botanical Gardens 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului Promote the survival of Hawai‘i’s native plants by growing them in your backyard. Experts will be available to help you select the perfect plants for your home. 9 a.m.-noon. 249-2798, mnbg.org

SEPTEMBER HAWAI‘I FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL Kā‘anapali Beach Resort September 4-6 This statewide gastronomic celebration brings its good taste to Maui.

Festivities include a celebrity golf tournament, gourmet dinners, premium wine and more. For details, see Arts & Leisure page 32.

1/3 SQUARE

Email your event to Calendar@ MauiMagazine.net, or visit MauiMagazine.net/Calendar and scroll down to “Submit New Event” to post it online. Listings for MNKO’s September-October print edition must be received by July 15. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jul–Aug 2015

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who’s who ‘AIPONO RESTAURANT AWARDS: THE CASBAH | Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa | April 26 | Benefit for UH-Maui Culinary Academy

L to R: Kim Haueisen, Kirk Surry, Mieko Horikoshi, JoRene & Gunars Valkirs | Don & Desiree Abernathy | Venus Bravo Yi, Helen Maeda | Perry Bateman

L to R: Sheldon Simeon, Isaac Bancaco| Brandon Maeda, Angela Nolan | Quiana & Michele Di Bari | Jeff Scheer | Ritchard Cariaga, Hai Lin

L to R: Cindy La, Tennyson Guarnier, Nick Cleveland | Blossom & Ronald Kawahara | Gerianne & Clyde Sakamoto | Lynn & Roger Stettler, Toni Rojas

Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at MauiMagazine.net/WhosWho.

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JOSE MORALES

L to R: Jennifer Nguyen | Paula & Martin Lenny, Konnie Newbro | Jeff Hudson, Jason Vendrell, Ryan Schooley, Tori Hudson | Teresa Shurilla, Paris Nabavi, Diane Haynes Woodburn, Chris Speere

LIVE MUSIC AND FOOD TASTINGS THE THIRD WEDNESDAY OF EACH MONTH, 6:30 TO 8PM

presented by

You are invited to shop, sample, and enjoy a special musical performance by local artists.

Tasty menu samplings, mini-makeovers, entertainment and more—just for you.

Free and open to the public.

3750 Wailea Alanui Drive . Visit us online for monthly updates . theshopsatwailea.com . 808.891.6770 .

who’s who

L to R: Lisa Donlon, Dean Wong | Ron Gess & Shirley Chun-Ming | Mike & Traci Silva, Lynn Araki-Regan and Keith Regan | Mayor Alan & Ann Arakawa | Susan Bendon, Mark Norfleet, Heather Haynes

GENEVIEVE DEREGO/DARIUS TAJ/DANIEL KRUSE

FANTASIA BALL | Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa | April 3 | Benefit for Imua Family Services

L to R: Rick Ryniak, Eta Somekh | Scott & Laurie Blaine | Candice Bergin, Sass Somekh | Nancy Gresik, Shay Belisle, Ian Gresik | Alexa & Salvatore Marino

Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at MauiMagazine.net/WhosWho.

SAVE THE DATE!

PATHWAYS

Featuring: Distinguished educators

TO OUR

FUTURE AN ANNUAL EVENT TO BENEFIT THE MEDB KE ALAHELE EDUCATION FUND

Lt. Governor Shan Tsutsui and Ms. Lyndelle Tsutsui

Mayor Alan Arakawa and Ms. Ann Arakawa

SATURDAY, August 29, 2015 4:30 PM RECEPTION/SILENT AUCTION • 6 PM DINNER/LIVE AUCTION

the Fairmont Kea Lani, maui SPONSORSHIP OPPORTUNITIES AVAILABLE

www.medb.org 112

MauiMagazine.net

CALVIN HAZEN

BOOK TRUST EXTRAVAGANZA | Mala Wailea | March 14 | Benefit for Book Trust

&

TASTE OUR LOVE FOR THE LAND Tickets on Sale Now Mark your calendars for the Fifth Annual Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival, featuring over 150 chefs, farmers, top-tier wine makers, mixologists, and brewmasters. Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival Kā‘anapali becomes a new three-day culinary adventure and will include indulgent golf and dining activities.

Don’t miss this epic end of summer experience.

August 29, 2015

Waikoloa, Hawai‘i Island

September 4, 2015

Roy’s 18th Annual Golf Classic at Kā‘anapali Golf Course

September 5, 2015

Maui on My Mind at Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa

September 6, 2015

Hawaiian Airlines Presents Legend of Shep Gordon at Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa

September 9-13, 2015

August 29 - September 13, 2015

WWW.H F WF. M E

Honolulu & Ko Olina, O‘ahu

M A HA LO TO OUR SPONSORS

®

liddo bitta tita!

ILLUSTRATION BY MATT FOSTER

Da State of da State Happy Birt’day to us! Was August 21, 1959, Congress wen’ make Hawai‘i da 50th State. Since den, da t’ird Friday in August is one official state holladay. Jus’ so happen dat dis year, da t’ird Friday is da exack same day, August 21st. Used to be, we wen’ call ‘em “Admission Day,” but dat wen confuse too much guys. Dey t’ought Admission Day was when you s’pose to sign up fo’ da nex’ school year. So now, evah since 2001, we call ‘em “Statehood Day.” Funny kine, you know, only Kentucky, Tennessee, Nevada, Wes’ Virginia an’ us get one official statehood holladay. An’ yet, out of all da fifty states, we da only one get contra-versy ovah cela-brating statehood. Da pilikia (whatchoo call trouble or problem) wen’ start ovah hundred years ago, an’ still goin’ on to dis day.

Dass ‘cause we da only state dat used to be run by real kine kings an’ queens.

Took him ovah fifteen years an’ plenny bloodshed, but in 1810, King Kamehameha da Firs’ wen make da Kingdom of Hawai‘i, aftah he wen’ take ovah all da islands from da oddah kings an’ chiefs. By da 1840s, undah King Kamehameha da T’ird, Hawai‘i had good kine dipla-matic ra-lations wit’ both da United States an’ Great Britain. Of course, both a dem wanted fo’ make us part a dem, but da Kingdom wen’ stay inda-pendent. We wen’ play hard fo’ get, an’ we wen’ play da field, make nice wit’ oddah countries too. In 1881, King Kalākaua t’ought would be good if we partnah up wit’ Japan, so he wen’ go visit Emprah Meiji, an’ he wen’ propose marriage ba-tween his niece, Princess Ka‘iulani, an’ da Japanee prince, Higashifushimi Yorihito.

(An’ you t’ought Hawaiian names was hard fo’ pronounce.) Ho, jus’ t’ink, if Kalākaua had his way, we would be talkin’ Japanee now, insteada pidgin. But da emprah said no, maybe ‘cause Ka‘iulani was only six years old at da time.

Kalākaua wen’ make (die) in 1891 an’ his sistah, Lili‘uokalani, wen’ take ovah da t’rone. But in Jana-rary 1893, Lili‘uokalani, wen’ get ovah-t’rown by one group of businessmans an’ landownahs, mostly Americans, wit’ da help of da U.S. mila-tary. Dey wen’ put da queen undah house arrest an’ dey wen’ declare demselves da Provisional Government of Hawai‘i. Five years laydah, aftah plenny pa-liticoh pa‘apa‘a (argument), da U.S. wen’ annex da Republic of Hawai‘i.

By da 1950s, mos’ locals wen’ figgah full-fledge statehood would

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be mo’ betta dan jus’ being one terra-tory. Peepoh wen’ make postahs, buttons, even one record label company, calling Hawai‘i da 49th State.

But Alaska wen’ beat us to da title. Dass OK, ‘cause who would watch one TV show called Hawai‘i Four-Nine? Fifty mo’ nifty.

Still yet, get some guys who say we not one American state, ‘cause da 1893 ovah-t’row was illegal. An’ dey get one point. When all dat was goin’ on, President Grovah Cleveland wen’ side wit’ da queen, but he no could do nottin’ fo’ change da situation. Hundred years laydah, President Bill Clinton wen’ sign one bill apologizing to da Hawaiians fo’ da ovah-t’row. He nevah give back da islands, dough.

So nowadays, even dough get couple Hawaiian groups who say we still da Kingdom of Hawai‘i, mos’ locals t’ink of demselves as Americans. But because we get ra-speck fo’ da native Hawaiians an’ all da pilikia dey wen’ suffah t’roo hist’ry, mos’ of us no make big deal about Statehood Day. In fack, da only guys who cela-brate is State an’ County workahs. Dass ‘cause dey get da day off, wit’ pay.

KATHY COLLINS (a.k.a. Tita) is an actress, storyteller

and radio personality. Like Tita, Ms. Collins grew up on Maui.

Hear Tita read her column out loud at MauiMagazine.net.