Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine Jan-Feb 2016 by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine

MAUI NŌ K A ‘OI MAGAZINE

THE L U X U RY ISSUE

 JANUARYFEBRUARY 2016 

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kipa mai (welcome) . . .

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features « LUXURY

ISSUE »

34 » island style

TREASURE ISLAND Compiled by Conn Brattain

38 » health & wellness

SEVEN SPLENDID SPAS For our money, nothing is more luxurious than placing yourself in the hands of an expert massage therapist. By John Giordani, Laura Lewark, Shannon Wianecki & Diane Haynes Woodburn

46 » at home

COOL COMFORT This estate on Maui’s northwest coast luxuriates in sea breezes and ocean views. By Marti Bloomquist

60 » adventure/hawaiian soul

INTO THE HOUSE OF THE SUN A millennium before Haleakalā became a national park, Hawaiians traversed its crater. We reprise that journey. By Shannon Wianecki

74 » artist on location

PLANTATION SON Before his paintings entered the collection of the Hawai‘i State Museum, Macario Pascual was an immigrant kid lost in a new culture. By Rita Goldman

Crimson ‘ama‘u ferns dot the landscape along Haleakalā’s switchback trail. Story page 60. Photo by Ryan Siphers

about our cover Spa Montage at Montage Kapalua Bay has its own infinity pool. We call that the lap of luxury. See story page 38. Photo courtesy of Spa Montage

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departments

16 » contributors It takes a lot of talents to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

18 » publisher’s note By Diane Haynes Woodburn

20 » talk story Fresh off the coconut wireless ~ By Lehia Apana, Kathy Collins, Rita Goldman & Shannon Wianecki

32 » great finds ALOHA=LOVE You can take our word for it. Compiled by Conn Brattain

106 » calendar of events What’s happening where, when, and with whom

112 » who’s who Seen making the scene on Maui

114 » looking back Twenty years ago, we debuted the premiere issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi.

 DINING  82 » dining feature

RAW TALENT Meet the chefs behind Hyatt’s stellar sushi and seafood. By Becky Speere The vegetable tofu stir-fry at Hyatt Regency’s Japengo restaurant tastes every bit as good as it looks.

86 » maui mixology WATERMELON SHOCHU COCKTAIL Recipe courtesy of Japengo’s Matt Rapping

THIS ISSUE ONLINE

Web-exclusive content at MauiMagazine.net (available beginning in January) TUNE IN Hear Israel “Iz” Kamakawiwo‘ole sing “‘Ūlili Ē” at MauiMagazine.Net/Ulili. PARK HERE See more photos from our trek into Haleakalā Crater at MauiMagazine.net/IntoTheHouseOfTheSun. DO TRY THIS AT HOME Start the year off right with Chef Jin Hosono’s recipe for ozoni, traditional Japanese New Year’s soup. Find the recipe at MauiMagazine.net/Ozoni. DOES THIS TASTE LIKE BARNYARD TO YOU? Download this tasting chart for your next blind wine tasting at MauiMagazine.net/Blind-Wine-Tasting. RED CARPET TREATMENT Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo in our online Facebook albums and share with friends. GET SOCIAL

Facebook.com/MauiMagazine

Twitter.com/MauiMag

Pinterest.com/MauiMagazine

Instagram.com/MauiMag

89 » chef’s kitchen THE CHEF BEHIND THE GOURMET Lloyd Aoki’s ABCs are compassion, knowledge and hard work. By Becky Speere

92 » raise your glass THE CASE OF THE BLIND WINE TASTING The sleuth, the whole sleuth, and nothing but the sleuth ~ By Charles Fredy, Advanced Sommelier

98 » dining guide A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island

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There’s a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is indeed the best.” We hope you think so, too.

What were you doing twenty years ago?

PUBLISHER Diane Haynes Woodburn SENIOR EDITOR Rita Goldman MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana DINING EDITOR Becky Speere

I was in the seventh grade and boarding at Kamehameha Schools on O‘ahu. What’s a dorm full of bored middle-school girls to do on a Saturday night? Raid each other’s closets, play with makeup, and have a photo shoot!—Lehia Apana I worked as public relations director for NYC fashion designer Todd Oldham. In May 1996, AIDS Project Los Angeles hosted a star-studded gala for Todd. We flew to LA and staged a runway show. Before the show, I worked with actress Ali MacGraw on what she might wear. She opted for a tie-dyed crushed velvet robe. Here we are backstage.—Conn Brattain

ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER John Giordani

I was living in NYC, working at Spin Magazine, taking a continuing-education class on synthesizers, and preparing for a cross-country road trip to help a dear friend move from Brooklyn to New Mexico. Here I am at White Sands National Monument in New Mexico.—John Giordani

STYLE EDITOR Conn Brattain WEBSITE MANAGER

I was in eighth grade. I’m in the middle, getting a hug from my father, Calvin. (My sister, Ramona, is at left.) I was selected emcee at our graduation ceremony. That was a great way to end middle school.—Adelle Lennox

Adelle Lennox

ASSISTANT DESIGNER Shelby Lynch EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Jose Morales CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Marti Bloomquist, Kathy Collins, Charles Fredy, John Giordani, Laura Lewark, Shannon Wianecki CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Maurice Bajon, Conn Brattain, Barry Frankel, John Giordani, Mieko Horikoshi, Nina Kuna, Living Maui Photography, Jason Moore, James Petruzzi, Ryan Siphers

HEATHER ELLIS

I was learning to scuba dive, despite a healthy fear of sharks and drowning. To my joy, I didn’t panic when a problem arose thirty feet below the surface. Another reward: this chance meeting with a honu.—Rita Goldman

I was going to Ha‘ikū Head Start! This is me at graduation at Giggle Hill, with teacher Janice Freitas.—Shelby Lynch

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATORS

Matt Foster CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION

Haynes Publishing Group, Inc.

This photo was taken at the old Maui High School. My late husband Barry and I had just received our black belts following several hours of tests in kata (forms or drills, both open hand and with weapons), and kumite (sparring). Barry went on to teach a karate class at the YMCA. I helped him keep order in the class because my “command voice” was so much stronger than his. —Kathy Collins

DIRECTOR OF SALES Laura Lewark ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

Michael Haynes CONTROLLER & OFFICE MANAGER

Kao Kushner SUBSCRIPTION MANAGER

Andre Mueller NEWSSTAND SALES & CIRCULATION

Subscription inquiries toll free: 844-808-MAUI or visit Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net

I was in high school and playing club soccer for North Huntington Beach; we were national champs and state finalists every year. Soccer was my life!—Laura Lewark

I was on my first solo trip out of the U.S. In this picture, I’m standing in my closet-sized hut in Pangandaran, Java. I fried banana pancakes for tourists at Delta Gecko restaurant. I had recently shaved my head and wore this scarf to keep the Indonesian boys from calling me Sinead O’Connor. —Shannon Wianecki

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Here I am (on the right) at Mākena Landing, certifying one of my very first students as a PADI open-water diver. This is why I came to Maui, to teach scuba diving to Japanese tourists! —Mieko Horikoshi

INROOM Maui Circulation E-MAIL ADDRESS Info@MauiMagazine.net

I was sixteen and on vacation in Lahaina with my family. I’m the one in the middle in all black, thinking I had all the answers.—Nina Kuna

MOVING? Send address changes to Haynes Publishing Group, P.O. Box 3942, Lacey, WA 98509-3942. Please note: If the post office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, Haynes Publishing has no further obligation, unless we receive a corrected address within one year of that notification.

I was in my final year of college, working full time at a supermarket and as an extra in movies like Howard the Duck, Mrs. Doubtfire and Class Action. I also played street hockey and practiced aikido. On May 20, 1995, I graduated with a degree in photography, and moved to Maui the next day.—Jose Morales

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, The Shops at Wailea magazines, & Eating & Drinking 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; 808-242-8331. ©2016 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly U.S. subscriptions $21; Canadian subscriptions $29; foreign subscriptions $40. Payable in U.S. currency. Canadian Post Publication Mail Agreement 41458020, undeliverables 2-7496 Bath Road, Mississauga, Ontario L4T 1L2. MauiMagazine.net Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi—an environmental leader in the industry whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

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publisher’s note Happy 20th Birthday, MNKO!

Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

The publisher with sons Michael (left) and Jonathan in 1996

NINA KUNA

The Chinese calendar tells us that 2016 is the Year of the Fire Monkey—a year in which anything can happen, as this cheeky animal bursts with exuberance. His humor and wit will increase communication and help us get through stressful times with grace. But it is the fire sign that gives this year its brilliance. Those born under the element of fire are adventurous, innovative, articulate and natural leaders. And, the Internet tells me, those born under a fire sign love to explore new horizons. Hmmm, sounds like a good idea for a magazine. Yep, it was under a fire sign, twenty years ago in 1996, that Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine was born. It was the Year of the Fire Rat—no monkey business involved. Rather, hard work and a true-grit spirit of survival launched Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi—along with a mentor with a heart. To tell the story, I have to go back even further, to 1983, when I launched my first magazine. Art to Onions was designed as a product catalog (with stories) of everything wonderful on Maui. A little before its time, Art to Onions dropped the catalog element, and lived for ten years under the new title Pacific Art and Travel. I could not have picked a more volatile economy. By 1993 the travel and art markets had plunged into a deep recession. Many advertisers, even the bigger companies, filed bankruptcy, leaving creditors (like me) unable to collect on receivables. My company plummeted, and having no other choice, I closed Pacific Art and Travel. As a single mom with no other resources, I was devastated, broke, and scared. I spent most of the next year taking jobs writing grants, juggling bills, and waking up in the middle of the night wide-eyed, wondering if I would be able to keep my house. I would calm myself with the mantra “My kids are good. I’m healthy. It’s only money.” Another year, and Print Media Day was coming up—a trade show for Hawai‘i publishers and their clients. I wanted so much to hide at home, but could not help thinking of the song I had sung to my children for so many years: “Whenever I feel afraid, I hold myself erect, and whistle a happy tune so no one will suspect I’m afraid.” I had to go. I put on a smile, and walked as tall as my five-foot-one, 105-pound frame could carry me. If I had known how to whistle, I would have. It felt like the walk of shame—until one man, a publisher I admired, stopped not just to say hello, but also to be kind, supportive, and encouraging. He expressed his faith in me as a publisher and encouraged me to keep going. And most importantly, he offered to listen to me. It was a few weeks before I found the courage to call. I did have an idea for a new magazine, I told him. I wanted to call it Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi. Although he lived on O‘ahu, he and his wife came to Maui every weekend to work on their little Upcountry home, where he hoped to someday retire. One Sunday, we scheduled an appointment and he reviewed my proposal. “You have to do it,” he told me. “Write a business plan.” “I can’t.” I responded. “I have to get a job or I will lose my house.” He wouldn’t hear of it. “Write the plan,” he said. He then got out his checkbook, and wrote a check to help me get through the next month. “I don’t want it back,” he told me. “I want to see Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi.” Mahalo, Kim Jacobsen. Because of your kindness, faith and generosity, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi was indeed launched. Since then we have donated nearly $500,000 in cash and in kind to support nonprofits in our community. I hope you know how much your investment has grown, and what an important part you have played in developing dreams. As we launch into 2016, the world is once again a scary place—for much bigger reasons. Perhaps the year of the monkey will indeed find better communication among peoples of all nations. But I believe it is the fire we must embrace. It is my hope that we each find the courage to stand for tolerance and generosity, so that together we pave the way, even with the smallest of kind acts, to a more humane world.

MauiMagazine.net

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talk story Fresh off the coconut wireless

DAY IN THE LIFE

Ringer NAME Mac McMinn TITLE Owner, Maui Metal Detecting FIRST RESPONDER A retired police officer and paramedic, Mac McMinn knows crisis. These days, the cries for help come from desperate couples who have lost a wedding ring at the beach, or a panicked traveler whose family heirloom was swept underneath a waterfall. “When you get in [cold] water, you lose two ring sizes,” McMinn says. “There are thousands of rings in the ocean because of that.” McMinn recovers lost jewelry—mostly wedding rings—throughout Hawai‘i. A certified diver for twenty-five years, he is equipped with more than $30,000’s worth of search tools, including metal detectors, an inflatable boat, and a mountain of scuba gear. PROVING HIS METTLE McMinn flips through a photo gallery on his phone, each swipe of the finger inspiring an anecdote of the people he’s helped. There’s the woman who, while taking sunset photos at the beach, lost a 150-year-old pearl bracelet that belonged to her great-grandmother. McMinn located it just moments before dark. He recently fielded a call from a couple on Moloka‘i; the wife had been holding her husband’s ring while he surfed, and dropped it as she walked the beach. McMinn was on a flight that afternoon, and the ring was back on the man’s finger within fifteen minutes of searching. Not all that’s lost is found. A rock star once contacted McMinn to find a $50,000 ring he purchased from an NFL player. The athlete had designed the piece using diamonds from his Super Bowl ring. “The guy lost it over coral, but the metal detector isn’t effective over coral, so it’s still out there somewhere,” says McMinn. Another challenge is finding a person’s jewelry before someone else does. “We have what I call ‘beach scalpers,’ people who search for rings and never even try to return them,” McMinn explains. “It’s a race to find [the missing item] before they do.”

Photo by Jason Moore

DELAYED GRATIFICATION When he’s not searching for someone’s missing treasure, McMinn often spends his free time combing the beach on his own. He estimates he has nearly one hundred unclaimed rings and a handful of necklaces locked in a safety deposit box. “I log everything with the date and location I found it,” he explains, adding that he checks Craigslist’s “Lost & Found” section daily in hopes of connecting with an item’s owner. “I might get a few hundred dollars by pawning the ring, but my greatest reward is finding the owner. I’m giving people back their happy memories.”—Lehia Apana

MauiMagazine.net

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Ace businessman Bill Marrs points to one of the special deals you could find at Marmac Hardware in 1976.

Outside, the building on the corner of Lalo and Alamaha has changed a bit in the forty years since this photo was taken. Inside, Marmac carried an impressively large and eclectic inventory—and still does.

talk story ISLAND BUSINESS

Keeping Good Company

HELPFUL HARDWARE FOLKS “We’re a dying breed,” Bill Marrs tells each new hire at Marmac Ace Hardware. A family business that has not only survived, but thrived in the face of big-box competition and economic swings, Marmac is indeed one of the last of its kind. “We’re in the people business; we treat everyone like family,” says Bill. After twenty minutes with him in the employees’ break room, I could believe the sincerity in his words. From floor staff to management, everyone is on a first-name basis with Bill. Fist bumps and hugs are exchanged as the workers leave for the day. Forty-five years ago, when Bill and his

wife, Maureen, started the company with Maureen’s parents, Joe and Betty McCurdy, the Alamaha Street hardware store offered a few hundred items and functioned primarily as a supplier to local contractors. Free coffee and popcorn were unique and favorite features of the store. Back then, Bill says, business deals were built on mutual respect and sealed with handshakes. “It was all about helping each other.” In Bill’s world, it still is. He has earned the loyalty and trust of his employees through his genuine concern for their welfare, and the staff pays it forward to customers. Whenever I’ve ventured into the store, obviously out of my comfort zone, a red-vested employee has appeared within seconds to help me find the item I need, even when I wasn’t sure what it was. Over the years, I have fixed several leaky toilets and replaced my bathroom-sink faucets with their guidance and moral support. Today, Marmac’s inventory includes over 40,000 items at the original Kahului store and the Wailuku location, which opened in

the Maui Lani Village Center in 2013. Bill remains company president, but has turned over most of the daily operations to his daughter and son, Lauri Lawrence and David Marrs. The second location, although much bigger and more brightly lit, has the same old neighborhood feel as the original store. And, yes, there’s a popcorn machine at the checkout stands. Why free popcorn, I ask Bill; is it a personal favorite? He smiles, “I just like the smell of home.” THE LOAN ARRANGERS Spurred by frustration with the social inequalities and ethnic bias that persisted in post-World War II Hawai‘i, a group of nisei (second-generation Japanese-American) war veterans decided to take action. Sakae Takahashi, in A History of Service, said, “A lot of guys had difficulty getting mortgage loans . . . there was a growing feeling that we should have a bank to help out those struggling in the community.” Takahashi and his fellow activists, includ-

PHOTOS COURTESY OF MARMAC ACE HARDWARE

The last twenty years have seen a 28 percent increase in the population of Maui County, and the demise of many beloved, locally owned businesses. The companies spotlighted here have defied the odds over the past two decades, and, in fact, have all been in operation for at least twice as long. How have they managed to survive?

STORY BY KATHY COLLINS

MauiMagazine.net

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talk story ISLAND BUSINESS At right, board members light a string of firecrackers to celebrate the official opening of the first Central Pacific Bank location, in Honolulu, on February 15, 1954.

ing future U.S. Senator Daniel K. Inouye, appealed to the local community to help them raise funds for a new, grassroots lending institution. They offered stock at a minimum of three shares, which allowed average working families to participate, and a maximum of 300 shares, to prevent any one investor from acquiring a controlling interest. In three months, the group raised $700,000, double the amount called for in the initial capitalization plan, and on February 15, 1954, Central Pacific Bank opened its doors in downtown Honolulu. Today, the little bank with humble beginnings has expanded to include thirty-six branches in all four counties. The dream held by its founders, to help the people of Hawai‘i create a better life for themselves, continues to drive the company. Senior Vice President Kyle Sakamoto, who oversees commercial banking for the neighbor islands, says, “We’re not the biggest; we never will be, but that’s not what it’s about. For us, it’s all about relationships.” Many of those relationships, begun in the bank’s early

years, have spanned generations. My family is a typical example. A couple of years after CPB’s first Maui branch opened in 1966 at the Kahului Shopping Center, my father, who was a dentist, and Maui surgeon Dr. Jose Romero saw an opportunity to purchase a medical clinic building. They formed a small hui (group) of local businessmen and applied for loans at the established major banks, only to be turned down by each. CPB was the only financial institution willing to take a chance with the hui. Naturally, when it was time to open my first bank account, my parents took me to the same branch, where I remained a customer for decades. And, nearly fifty years after that initial loan, the newest CPB branch sits on a Wailuku lot owned by the Romero Medical Building. STRONG ROOTS Established by Wailuku’s Fujimoto Florist family, Kahului Florist opened in 1953 at the Kahului Shopping Center. Employee Doris

Nishimura purchased the shop in 1962 and, eleven years later, moved it to the brandnew Maui Mall. Doris’s daughter, Natalie Nishimura, grew up in the business and now co-owns and operates Kahului Florist with her brother-in-law, Wayne Tokumoto. Florists, like farmers, make their living at the mercy of Mother Nature. Unfavorable weather conditions and climate changes can have devastating effects on supply and inventory. The industry is also affected by social trends, especially online marketing. Natalie says the key to survival has been the company’s insistence on top-quality goods and customer service. Wayne adds the ability to adapt to a constantly changing market as an important factor, pointing to the baskets of cookies and musical teddy bears displayed alongside vases both elegant and whimsical. Indeed, Kahului Florist has always been on top of the latest floral and gift trends. I remember tagging along with my mother on visits to the original shop and watching “Auntie” Doris meticulously assemble funeral wreaths and holiday centerpieces. The wrist corsage for my first prom, a fat red carnation lei for graduation, a petite pikake headpiece for my wedding day, all came from Kahului Florist. Twenty years later, my son’s prom date bought him a maile lei instead of a carnation boutonnière, and he presented her with a fan bedecked with flowers, both purchased at the Maui Mall shop. Today, each time I perform in local theater or my one-woman stage shows, my mother calls on Natalie for a bouquet of roses. Asked what’s in store for the next twenty years, Natalie is reluctant to make predictions or commitments. “I take ten years at a time,” she smiles.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF CENTRAL PACIFIC BANK

In 1966, CPB opened its first Maui branch in Kahului Shopping Center, in the modest building pictured below. The branch moved to its current location at 83 West Ka‘ahumanu Avenue in 1974.

MauiMagazine.net

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808-244-9021 Ron Kawahara, President dmi@destinationmaui.net CPA, CVA, CPM, PCAM www.DestinationMaui.net 220 Imi Kala St., Suite 104, Wailuku, HI 96793

FILLING A NEED Remnants of the past seventy years sit in the window of Toma Garage: a dented tin canteen, a penny gumball dispenser, a little red toy truck. An auto mechanic for Libby’s Ha‘ikū pineapple plantation, Masakichi Toma and his wife, Doris, opened the mom-and-pop gas station in 1948. In 1976, son Ralph, also a mechanic, returned to Maui after sixteen years on the mainland to manage the Ha‘ikū landmark with his wife, Lenette. Their son, Daryl, joined the business in 1997 as auto technician. Father and son worked side by side for fifteen years, until Daryl’s untimely death at the age of forty-one. His face beams from a memorial poster near the counter. My father’s parents lived a half mile up the road from Toma Garage, back when Mopua Street was called Chickenet Farm Road, named for a long-gone poultry farm. Their house was one of a few dozen that comprised the sprawling neighborhood, dominated by pineapple fields and thickly forested gulches. Masa and Doris probably served fewer customers in a week than Ralph sees in a day. During a recent visit, I counted five customers over the course of forty-five minutes, not including the two who were there when I pulled in. In between fill-ups, Ralph marveled at how populated the rural area has become. “Used to be all fields over there,” he said, waving at the row of houses across the street. “Do you remember your grandfather? He was my luna [supervisor] when I was a teenager, picking pine in those fields. He was a nice man.” I do remember my grandfather, though he died when I was four. I also remember my father saying the same thing about Ralph’s father: he was a nice man. Toma Garage no longer does auto repairs, but Ralph keeps the gas station pumping

JOHN GIORDANI

Your best choice f� Property Management

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talk story ISLAND BUSINESS

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The Largest Selection of Oceanfront Vacation Condominiums Opposite: Ralph Toma still pumps gas at the station his parents opened in 1948. Above: Kenneth Takamiya in his family’s store, circa 1950.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE TAKAMIYA FAMILY

from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m., Monday through Saturday. As he points out, the growth of Ha‘ikū has ensured a steady flow of patrons. In soft-spoken, measured words, he affirms that the family business will continue to serve the community for many years to come. THE LITTLE GIANT Takamiya Market was founded in 1946 by Jisho Takamiya, who, with his sons Jin and Kenneth and son-in-law Sekichi Sakihara, expanded a little fish market into a neighborhood grocery store. After Kenneth’s retirement in 1972, Jisho’s youngest son, James, became owner-manager of the market. It was Jimmy’s idea to include prepared foods, packaged and ready to go, and to add a catering arm to the business. Decades later, it’s the takeout food that keeps customers swarming to the market, and Dani’s Catering (named for Jimmy’s youngest daughter, Danielle) has become the institution of choice for local parties and banquets. Another daughter, Michelle Hondo, has managed Dani’s for over twenty-five years; Jimmy’s son David is a butcher at the market, and nephew Lance (Jin’s son) is general manager. Like Toma Garage, the “Little Giant of Happy Valley” has a loyal, local clientele that has grown along with the neighborhood itself. But Lance says it’s a constant challenge to keep up with changing tastes and trends, not to mention a growing list of competitors. “We used to be the only game in town; now, everybody’s doing Spam musubi and prepared foods. And the old-fashioned stuff, like turkey tails and tripe, not selling like they used to.” That’s why, both in the market and on Dani’s catering menu, you will now find a wider variety of offerings. Personally, I’m fine with the healthier selections, like tofu salad and veggie trays, as long as I can still count on Takamiya for my fried squid and pork rinds.

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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talk story IN SEASON

The Voice of the ‘Ūlili

With a name like “wandering tattler,” the grey shorebird that dances with the tide during the winter months in Hawai‘i must have some interesting tales to tell. Known to scientists as Tringa incana, tattlers spend the summer nesting near streams in the Alaskan tundra. When the weather starts to cool, the birds fly south to Hawai‘i. Between late August and April, solitary tattlers can be found foraging for crabs on rocky coastlines, beaches, and mudflats throughout the Islands. The stocky, slate-grey birds have greenish-yellow legs and long black bills. They’re known to bob their tails up and down as they peck the wet sand in search of salty morsels. The tattler earned its nickname for its four-note whistle, a musical alarm it sounds whenever predators pass by. Ancient Hawaiians called the bird ‘ūlili, and recognized its role as a messenger and scout. Hawaiian historian Abraham Fornander tells of a Moloka‘i chief who kidnapped another man’s wife and employed an ‘ūlili and a kōlea (Pacific golden plover) to spy for him and foil any rescue attempts. When the woman’s son came to retrieve her, the birds pulled at his hair—high drama for typically docile shorebirds. The late singer Israel “Iz” Kamakawiwo‘ole popularized a song celebrating the ‘ūlili. The tempo mimics the shorebird’s staccato movement as it chases marine animals swept up in the incoming tide. The lyrics are especially evocative when sung in rounds. ‘Ūlili also refers to a lesser-known hula instrument. Three gourds are strung on a dowel, with a cord tied to the middle. A hula dancer holds the center gourd and pulls the string, which winds and unwinds like a yo-yo. The two outer gourds spin, causing the seeds within them to produce a pleasant whirring sound.—Shannon Wianecki

‘Ūlili Ē Hone ana ko leo e ‘ūlili ē O kahi manu noho ‘ae kai Kia‘i ma ka lae a‘o kekaha ‘O ia kai ua lana mālie The voice of the ‘ūlili is soft and sweet Little bird who lives by the sea Ever watchful on the beaches Where the sea is calm Hear “Bruddah Iz” sing “‘Ūlili Ē” at MauiMagazine.net/Ulili.

Photo by James Petruzzi

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Radio Shack Photos by Barry Frankel

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OPPOSITE TOP & FAR LEFT, SECOND FROM BOTTOM: JOHN GIORDANI

There’s a promontory on Maui’s north shore, between Ho‘okipa Beach Park and Māliko Gulch, where a small concrete structure looks out to sea. A few cattle graze in the surrounding pasture, and fishermen occasionally shortcut through it on their way to the ocean. But mostly, the site is abandoned. Folks who regularly drive Hāna Highway watch for that structure, because every week or two, somebody paints it. The skill of the muralists varies widely, as does the subject matter, from illustrations to political statements, birthday wishes to memorials, and the occasional rude comment that happily never lasts long. That blockhouse has become a concrete social media site—an ad hoc billboard on an island that doesn’t allow them. Technically, the only people authorized to use the blockhouse are members of the Maui Amateur Radio Club, and they only do so during Field Day, says club president Tom Worthington. “Field Day is sponsored by the Amateur Radio Relay League, the organization for radio clubs in the U.S. The last full weekend in June, clubs and individuals set up stations and make as many contacts with other stations as they can. We set up radios at the blockhouse Friday night and operate Saturday and Sunday. This past June we made about 3,200 contacts!” Why this site? Tradition, says Worthington. “The Navy used it during World War II as a radio station to communicate with the mainland. The equipment was in the blockhouse. A Quonset hut on the concrete pad was barracks for the operators. “The Maui Amateur Radio Club has been using it since at least the 1950s. Our institutional memory only goes back that far. It’s close to water, which is good for radio propagation, and far from power lines, so there’s low noise.” And there’s room for public participation; on Field Day, the site is open to everyone. The rest of the year, the club meets monthly “to talk about geeky stuff,” says Worthington. And because ham-radio operators can often stay in touch when other forms of communication go down, the club maintains a couple of radios in the county building’s basement emergency center. “If the center is opened, one of our members will go and offer backup services.” Club members also paint the blockhouse during Field Day, and clean up inside and out. The rest of the year . . . well, you have to be a little amazed that you never see the other muralists at work. At least I never have, and I’ve been driving that route for decades. I’d guess they’re menehune, except that some folks leave behind open paint cans and other garbage, something I can’t imagine even mythical Hawaiians doing. You know what they say. People who live in glass houses shouldn’t throw stones. And people who paint stone houses ought to show class.—Rita Goldman Learn more about the Maui Amateur Radio Club at Kh6rs.com.

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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 GREAT FINDS 

Just a Little Lovin’ This baby tee features a map of the human heart, Hawaiian Island-style. What’s not to love? By Aloha State of Love, $25 at Ports at The Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., 874-8000

Aloha Wear 14K gold-fill aloha bar necklace on 17" chain, $50 by Sparrow Seas. Also in sterling silver, $35. At The Bikini Market, 1819 S. Kīhei Rd., 891-8700 and SparrowSeas.com

Sign Language These decorative plaques speak for themselves. Exterior paint on wood and a keyhole on the back make them easy to hang indoors or out. Choose from a wealth of island sayings, including Aloha Kekahi i Kekahi (“Love one another”), or have one customized. 5"x7", $18 each, by and at OpihiMaui.com

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Wrapped in Aloha

Kealopiko designed this limited-edition reversible paper for Wrappily, Maui’s environmental gift-wrap company. $15 for 6 sheets/4 patterns. Find details and more designs at Wrappily.com.

So many ways to say it, and there’s never been a better time. You can take our word for it.

Love Notes Sparkles by gigi hand draws these one-of-a-kind (and customizable) note cards on Maui, and tucks some aloha inside. $6 each with envelope at The Market by Capische?, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 879-2433; and SparklesByGigi.com

COMPILED BY CONN BRATTAIN

All You Need Is Lobes 14K gold-plate shaka earrings are $45, by and at TiffanyChou.com

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Tiny Bubbles Exfolicare’s aloha glycerin soaps come in 6 great scents: Walk the Beach, Guava Passion, Coconut Mango, Plumeria, Bamboo Forest and Lavender. 2.5-oz. bars are $6 each at Paia Mercantile, 2 Baldwin Ave. Pā‘ia, 579-6388; and Exfolicare.com.

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SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS

Enjoy the hospitality of Maui’s plantation era at the historic Pioneer Inn on Lahaina Harbor. Plenty of Places to Shop with over 14 Retailers ∏ Restaurants Maui Memories

South Paciﬁc Island Art

Island Treasures

Best Western Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina (808) 661-3636 www.pioneerinnmaui.com

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Photography & Styling CONN BRATTAIN

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1. 14K yellow gold flower pendant with .73ctw chocolate and white diamonds on 16” chain. Price on request, by and at Greenleaf Diamonds. 2. Crystal rose bumblebee pendant/brooch with koa, rose, light rose and fuchsia pavé crystals, 14K gold e-coated finish on 18” chain, $125, by and at Martin & MacArthur. 3. 18K white and rose gold flower earrings with 2 13mm golden South Sea pearls, 72 (1.16ctw) brilliant cut diamonds and 242 (1.86ctw) fancy color yellow/ pink diamonds. Price on request, by and at Hildgund. 4. Le Vian aloha hibiscus pendant with 1.75ctw pink sapphires and .11ctw diamonds on 18” 14K koa, rose gold chain. $1,979, by and at Na Hoku. 5. Le Vian aloha hibiscus earrings with 2ctw pink sapphires and .17ctw diamonds in 14K rose gold. $2,779, by and at Na Hoku. 6. Le Vian aloha hibiscus ring with 1.7ctw pink sapphires and .11ctw diamonds set in 14K rose gold. $2,359, by and at Ha Noku.

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« ISLAND STYLE »

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1. 30ct citrine pendant set in 18K yellow gold with 2ctw diamonds. (Chain sold separately.) Price on request, by and at Greenleaf Diamonds. 2. 18K white gold 36.74ctw rainbow sapphire choker, price on request, by and at Lambros Gallery. 3. 20mm London blue topaz set in 18K white gold necklace with .47ctw diamonds, by Lisa Nik. $3,900 at Baron & Leeds. 4. Le Vian aloha bird of paradise pendant with 2.11ctw amethyst, rhodolite, tsavorite, sapphire and .07ctw diamonds on 18” 14K yellow gold chain. $1,299, by and at Na Hoku. 5. 18K rose gold ring with 17mm square citrine and .33ctw diamonds; 18K rose gold ring with 17mm amethyst and .33ctw diamonds; 18k white gold ring with 17mm light blue topaz and .33ctw diamonds, all by Lisa Nik. $3,900 each at Baron & Leeds. 6. Siam Kite Earrings with red glass gems in 14K gold plated settings. $85, by and at Martin & MacArthur. 7. 18K white gold earrings with 24.56ctw turquoise with white topaz overlay and .52ctw diamonds. Price on request, by and at Hildgund. 8. 18K yellow gold bracelet with 52.8ctw blue topaz, citrine, peridot, garnet and amethyst with 1.36ctw diamonds. Price on request, by and at Greenleaf Diamonds. 9. 18k yellow and white gold link bracelet with 4.5ctw rainbow sapphires and 1.1ctw diamonds. Price on request, by and at Lambros Gallery. 10. Le Vian Aloha bird of paradise ring with 1.26ctw amethyst, rhodolite, tsavorite, sapphire and .05ctw diamonds, $1,159 by and at Na Hoku. 11. Steel LeVian bird of paradise watch with 3.23ctw sapphires and .55ctw diamonds and green leather band, $2,500 by and at Na Hoku. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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« ISLAND STYLE »

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1. Lilikoi Collection princess handbag in plumeria floral print on calfskin leather with koa wood details and detachable shoulder strap. $245, by and at Martin & MacArthur. 2. Triple strand necklace, 32”, featuring koa, glass and semiprecious beads, and 14K gold plated chains. $145 by and at Martin & MacArthur. 3. 18K rose gold enameled orchid pendant with .29ctw diamonds on 16” chain. Price on request, by and at Hildgund. 4. 14K gold fill Bella earrings with rose quartz and aqua chalcedony gemstones. $190, by and at AmataJewelryStudio.com. 5. 18K gold plated ring with pink quartz and mini CZs, by Marcia Moran. $165 at WaterLily. 6. Hammered 14K gold filled Maui ring with rose chalcedony. $130, by and at AmataJewelryStudio.com. 7. 18K gold plated cuff bracelet with green chalcedony/ cat’s-eye mix and mini CZs, by Marcia Moran. $212 at WaterLily. 8. Gold plate flower earrings with teal Swarovski crystals, by Allison Lynn Couture. $89 at WaterLily. 9. 14K gold-plated bracelet with pink quartz, by Marcia Moran. $142 at WaterLily. 10. Royal Hawai‘i burst earrings with koa, rhodonite and coffee CZs in 14K gold e-coated settings with post back. $90, by and at Martin & MacArthur.

P R E S E N T S

Kai Honu Collection

T H E

STORE LOCATIONS

S H O P S

Amata Jewelry Studio, AmataJewelry Studio.com | Baron & Leeds, The Shops at Wailea, 874-4900; Whalers Village, 661-6806; BaronAndLeeds.com | Greenleaf Diamonds, The Shops at Wailea, 874-1118; GreenleafDiamonds.com | Hildgund, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5800 | Lambros Gallery, The Shops at Wailea, 891-2100; LambrosGallery.com | Martin & MacArthur, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, Kapalua, 214-9874; The Shops at Wailea, 891-8844; Westin Maui, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 270-0888; Whalers Village, 667-7422; MartinAndMacArthur.com | Na Hoku, 858 Front St., Lahaina, 661-1219; The Lahaina Building, 744 Front St., Lahaina, 661-5965; Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8336; Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-7780; Lahaina Cannery Mall, 1221 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Lahaina, 661-1731; Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center, 275 Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 893-2110; The Shops at Wailea, 891-8040; Whalers Village, 667-5411; NaHoku.com | WaterLily, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 276-2764; WaterLilyMaui.com

A T

W A I L E A

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With 90 stores and restaurants, you can shop for beach gear and vacation keepsakes, enjoy a leisurely meal, and explore the whaling life at our Whale Museum – all just a few steps from the sand.

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Job Name: WHLR-30629 Size/colour: 4.64" x 4.785” non-bleed; 4C Pub: Maui No Ka Oi Pub Date: Jan-Feb 2016

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Splendid Spas Forget the furs and fancy cars. For our money, nothing is more luxurious than placing yourself in the hands of an expert massage therapist. In an endless quest to keep our readers informed, several of our colleagues gallantly volunteered to test some of the spa treatments around the island and report back.

Indoor, outdoor, hands-on, high-tech . . . Mauiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spas have a host of options for every body. The only hard part? Deciding where to rest your head.

COURTESY OF THE FAIRMONT KEA LANI

Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re still looking way too blissful.

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« HEALTH & WELLNESS »

The Mother of All Massages Pregnancy was an exciting time for me, but it brought major aches and pains, especially in my lower back and legs. Even my feet hurt! Combine that with trouble sleeping, and you can see why I’d jump (if only figuratively) at the chance to try the Maternity Massage (60/90 minutes, $175/$255) at the new Willow Stream Spa. I hoped it would be a step up from the massage I’d had at a different spa during my first pregnancy. If you’ve been—or are—pregnant, you know that it hurts to lie flat on your back, and the therapist’s solution that first time, having me lie on my side, was less than satisfying. Willow Stream offers a true Maternity Massage; it’s one of only a few spas on Maui that do. It features a massage table that tilts up to take pressure off your back, or reclines with a support-cushion system that molds to a pregnant tummy, so you can also lie on your stomach. It made a huge difference; although I was in my eighth month, I was comfortable the whole time. The pampering started the moment I arrived. Jolene, my therapist, offered me a white lavender clay with Hawaiian taro, coconut oil, and vitamins to rub all over my stomach, nourishing my growing belly, and helping to prevent stretch marks. Jolene exfoliated my skin with a Maui citrus sugarcane scrub; then massaged me, using a

Pamper Me in Paradise I’m fairly picky about what goes on my skin—shunning synthetic fragrances and parabens. That’s why I was excited to discover the Pamper Me in Paradise treatment (80 minutes, $210) at the Westin Maui’s Heavenly Spa. The beautification ritual uses all-natural products created especially for the spa by Ola, a local cosmetic company. The custom blend, Hualani (heavenly fruit), is an alluring mix of pineapple and passion fruit in an emollient base of kukui (candlenut), macadamia nut, and coconut oils. I arrived early to luxuriate for a while in the spa’s steam room, letting the wet heat soften my muscles and open my pores. My therapist, Terry, led me to a private treatment room for eighty minutes of pampering, starting with a full-body sugar scrub. The Hualani scrub is such high quality that Terry didn’t need to add any oil to it—she simply massaged it into my skin with a bit of warm water until it grew

You don’t have to be a mommy-to-be to succumb to the sensuous pleasures of Willow Stream. The spa offers private group suites complete with catering by Fairmont Kea Lani’s Chef Tylun Pang. (Sounds like a baby shower made in heaven.)

Hawaiian herbal honey body mask, paying extra attention to the places where I’d told her I ached. She finished with a Maui vanillabean coconut-cocoa butter that made me feel completely relaxed and replenished. And as a nice touch of privacy, my hot shower was ready and waiting right in the same room. When our son Caden is old enough to talk, I think I’ll ask him if he enjoyed the Maternity Massage as much as his mommy did. —Laura Lewark Willow Stream Spa|Fairmont Kea Lani Resort|4100 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea|808-875-2229|WillowStreamSpaMaui.com

sticky. The stickiness, she said, is evidence of the sugar breaking down and dissolving dead skin. She was right. When I washed off in the shower, I was impressed with how soft my skin felt. Next, Terry slathered me in Hualani body lotion. The professional grade has a richer content of nut oils than the retail version—more like a cross between lotion and massage oil. Terry then swaddled me in towels so my skin could soak up the hydrating crème while she moved on to the next phase: a facial incorporating EmerginC products. Facials are clearly Terry’s forte. She gently, thoroughly cleansed my face with a Clarisonic brush, applied a mask, followed by moisturizer, eye cream, and sun block. As a final touch, she massaged my scalp and feet and then unwrapped me. I emerged with soft, glowing skin from head to toe. This is a superb beauty treatment, one I’d recommend particularly for brides or anyone desiring extra radiance before a big event.—Shannon Wianecki Heavenly Spa|Westin Maui Resort & Spa|2365 Kā‘anapali Parkway, Kā‘anapali|808-661-2588|WestinMaui.com Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Winging It I had no idea what I was getting into. Most of you fellas would have thought the same—you go to a spa for a manly massage, not a facial, pedicure and wingtip relief. Apparently I have wings and they occasionally need relief! Off to the Hyatt I flew. Dubbed Kamaha‘o (Hawaiian for “wonderful”), this Marilyn Monroe spa is steps from the Kā‘anapali sand; it’s likely the most oceanfront spa on Maui. After check-in, I was led to the well-designed men’s locker room, with its sauna, steam room, whirlpool and private showers. Feeling a little like Hugh Hefner in the plush robe and slippers they provided, I sauntered over to meet Nikki, the aesthetician who would administer the Gentleman’s Classic Facial ($140). She described in detail what I could expect over the next fifty minutes. I asked whether my moustache would make a difference; she said no. Nikki applied white willow-bark extract and other organic products fragrant with the natural scents of orange, sage and rosemary in a multilayered process of cleansing, exfoliating, hydrating and softening. My favorite part was the extraction, during which she decongested especially clogged pores. After painting on a cooling mask, she massaged my shoulders and arms. Once the mask was removed, my face felt rejuvenated and ready to smile as I greeted Maria, who would administer the next treatments. It was time to unfurl my wings.

I nestled into a mani/pedi lounge chair, hypnotized by the spectacularly close ocean view. The “wingtip” in Wingtip Relief refers to the shoes worn by discerning businessmen back in the day. On an island where footwear is a sole and a strap, let’s face it, our feet suffer. Throw in my habit of gardening in said footwear and you have potential for dubious toe situations. I strongly recommend combining the Wingtip Relief ($40, 20 minutes) with a pedicure ($65, 30 minutes) to get the full foot-pampering experience. The Wingtip Relief entailed scraping away dead skin and callouses, and an aromatic foot scrub that exfoliated and cleansed. Add the blissful massage of feet, shins and calves, and I was ready to jitterbug. The pedicure was gentle but thorough, leaving my toenails spotless. I opted for the buffing of the nails as opposed to the synthetic clear coat. Within seconds my toenails shone like a Cadillac. I think Marilyn would approve.—John Giordani Kamaha‘o~A Marilyn Monroe Spa Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa 200 Nohea Kai Drive, Kā‘anapali 808-667-4500 MarilynMonroeSpas.com Kamaha’o offers monthly membership rates that include unlimited spa services.

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Tonic After multiple clients requested foot and scalp massages, Lauren, the lead therapist at Andaz Maui’s ‘Āwili Spa, designed a treatment to deliver just those two luxuries. I took her advice and booked the hourlong Tonic ($185). I lounged by the glamorous spa pool before Lauren whisked me off to my treatment room: a large space with an arresting ocean view and a fancy massage table that can transform into a chair and change temperature on command. The Tonic started with an Ayurvedicinspired facial: a gentle application of grapeseed oil (known for its moisturizing qualities), enhanced with lavender and geranium essential oils, which are relaxing and anti-aging. I appreciated Lauren’s firm, confident touch—especially when she

moved on to massage my head. Who doesn’t love an earnest scalp massage? The all-natural tonic included coconut milk, which moisturizes and promotes hair growth, brown sugar to exfoliate the scalp, and invigorating peppermint oil, which increases circulation. Lauren slowly worked the minty mixture through my hair. Next she used hot stones to loosen tight muscles in my neck. The tension in my jaw and shoulders began to melt. I was so relaxed, in fact, that I drifted off into daydreams. I was only half awake as Lauren finished with a foot massage. She recommended that I visit the spa’s steam room to let the oils fully saturate my skin before rinsing them off. I did. I left feeling rejuvenated and relaxed, with a head full of shiny, soft hair. —Shannon Wianecki

‘Āwili Spa|Andaz Maui|3550 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea 808-573-1234|Maui.Andaz.Hyatt.com

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Queen for a Day At the Montage Kapalua Bay, I always try to arrive early to take full advantage of the spa’s playground. If time allows, I swim a few laps in the co-ed infinity pool, relax in a lounge chair and soak up a little sun therapy, and treat myself to poolside service—I recommend the smoothies. Then I retreat to the women’s-only section, slip into a luxurious terry robe, and let my slipper-shod feet carry me to the outdoor lava-rock hot tub. After a good soak, I cool off under a fresh rainwater shower, then finish with a sauna (or steam) and an indoor shower. Bliss! I’ve come today for the Spa Montage ‘Awa & Cacao Cocoon (90 minutes, $295). My therapist, Janet, finds me sipping tea and enjoying a juicy orange in the waiting area. She leads me to a dimly lit treatment room where she ceremoniously offers me a coconut cup filled with earthy ‘awa, a mild narcotic (in this case, diluted with pineapple juice). ‘Awa is the main ingredient used throughout this special treatment. It represents the Hawaiian value of pono (goodness, righteousness). I sip the ‘awa, and we clap three times, as is the Hawaiian custom. Then Janet slathers me in a healing

paste made with Hawaiian ginger, oats and sandalwood, which the creator of this treatment, Darrell Lapulapu, says represents the different peoples of Polynesia. Chocolate oil is also infused into the paste. Its purpose is to warm the body and make one feel pampered and delicious. That it does. (Do say yes when asked if you’d like to include your tummy.) Janet follows this by wrapping me in a warm blanket while the goodness soaks in, and treating me to a deliciously de-stressing foot, neck and scalp massage. After, I rinse off the paste in my private shower, return to the table, and Janet finishes my treatment with a Hawaiian lomi lomi massage, using a lovely pīkake-scented lotion. It’s my favorite Hawaiian flower, similar to jasmine. This may be the most luxuriously relaxing treatment I know of. I leave afloat, and my skin has never felt so moisturized and supple. I would recommend this to anyone who wants to feel utterly pampered, and particularly to the bride (or mother of the bride) who wants to completely let go, and come back with skin smooth as silk.—Diane Haynes Woodburn Spa Montage | Montage Kapalua Bay|1 Bay Drive, Kapalua 808-662-6600 | MontageHotels.com/Kapalua-Bay

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« HEALTH & WELLNESS »

Young Again I love a good facial. In my youth, I was happy to have expert fingers massaging muscles I hadn’t known existed, and rubbing in rich products that exfoliated and hydrated my skin. Afterward, my face felt luscious and clean, and that was enough. At sixty-five, I need a little more help. I want a facial that will soften those well-earned fine lines, even my skin tone, and bring back a youthful glow. I’ve found two right here on Maui. Here’s the first: The Ritz-Carlton Signature Waihua Facial The Intraceuticals Oxygen Treatment will not only help fade fine lines, it actually plumps the skin, improves skin tone and leaves you looking radiant. It’s a wonderful treatment to have before special events; receiving it at the Ritz makes it even better. I recommend arriving early so that you can enjoy the steam room, as well as a soak in the lovely hot tub. Afterwards, wrap yourself in your soft, comfy robe, and take a few minutes to relax in the quiet room, where you can enjoy a cup of tea and some sweet treats. By the time your therapist comes to lead you into bliss, you will be halfway there. Then prepare to float away during the steam, cleanse, and facial massage . . . I know I did. (Of course, I chose the 80-minute, $295 treatment, giving my therapist, Cheryl, extra time to pamper me). Afterwards, Cheryl assessed my skin, and chose the serum best suited for me. No surprise, she chose Rejuvenate, designed to diminish the appearance of fine lines while enhancing hydration. Other serums address skin tone, acne, and expression lines. Whichever your choice, the key ingredient is hyaluronic acid, a molecule found naturally in our skin (and the substance in some injectable fillers). Its job is to attract and bind moisture, helping skin look firmer and hydrated. But it is the oxygen, delivered with light pressure through a wand, that literally pushes the vitamins and antioxidants deep into the skin. The sensation is a pleasant, cooling blast of air applied to your entire face. The noticeably gorgeous results last four to seven days. This is a perfect treatment for wedding week, holidays, or anytime you want to look fab.—Diane Haynes Woodburn Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua | 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, Kapalua 808-669-6200 | RitzCarlton.com Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Age Stops Here I found my second restorative treatment at the Four Seasons Spa. Age Stops Here (80 minutes, $395) includes LED therapy, microcurrent lift by NuFace, and the spa’s signature HydraFacial, which I’m told is one of the newest, most effective anti-aging treatments available. This is a great way to bringout your inner (and outer) glow. Let’s start with simply being at the Four Season’s Spa. Soft lights, gentling falling water, and a tranquil bamboo décor create the most relaxing ambiance. By now, it will not surprise you to know that I showed up early to enjoy the steam room and sauna. But the real pampering began when I entered the treatment room, removed my robe and sank into the cush, warmed bed, where every part of my body was supported and warmed. By the time my therapist, Rose, returned to adjust the leg pillows and support system to my preference, the journey had already begun. She massaged lotion into my hands and eased them into warmed mitts, then gave my face, neck and shoulders a wonderful massage. Next came the HydraFacial, a noninvasive treatment that combines the benefits of hydradermabrasion, a chemical peel, painless extractions (no pinching!) and a special delivery of antioxidants, hyaluronic acid and peptides. I am not a fan of dermabrasion; it leaves my skin red and irritated. I was pleased to find that this treatment delivers the same benefit without downtime or irritation. Next, Rose covered my eyes and the LED therapy began. LED stands for light-emitting diodes. Developed by NASA, LED works by sending energy-producing packets of light into the deeper layers of the skin, stimulating the

production of collagen, the magic ingredient for plump, young skin. During the LED therapy, Rose uncovered my hands, and I enjoyed another hand and arm massage, foot massage, and, last, a heavenly scalp massage. Although the light is intense, LED treatments are painless, cool and relaxing, and unlike IPL (intense pulsed light) and laser treatments, carry no risk of burning. In fact, Rose says the light imbues the same therapeutic results of mild sunlight. The final touch was the NuFace microcurrent therapy. This works by sending soft, gentle waves through the skin and down to the facial muscles. The result of energizing the muscle is an improved, lifted appearance. This is the most comprehensive treatment I’ve ever experienced. I emerged relaxed and radiant.—Diane Haynes Woodburn Four Seasons Resort Maui|3900 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea 808-874-8000| FourSeasons.com/Maui/Spa

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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 AT HOME 

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This estate on Maui’s northwest coast luxuriates in sea breezes and ocean views. Story by Marti Bl³mquist Photography by Living Maui Photography

Four hurricanes are swirling around the Hawaiian Islands, sucking up the trade winds and driving the temperature sensor on my car to ninety-one degrees, making Maui’s usual balmy weather feel more like an equatorial jungle. I am already wilted as I make my way along the northwest side of the island. I’m headed to Kapalua’s Plantation Estates, set amid the emerald fairways of the famed Plantation Golf Course, in sight of Honolua Bay, a winter surf haven and marine sanctuary. At the Plantation Estates turnoff I am tempted to go makai (seaward) and jump into the ocean for relief. But I’m scheduled to tour one of Maui’s most luxurious properties and am dressed for business. I head up the hill, wagering on a surge of frosty air to greet me at the estate. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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« AT HOME »

Top photo: It’s not just the pool that’s infinite—the house faces west, with glass walls that retract for an unimpeded sunset view. Center: Victoria calls this “the whale room,” a cozy spot for whale watching in winter, curling up with a good book any time. A Maitland-Smith game table occupies a corner

by the windows, inviting play when visiting humpbacks don’t monopolize everyone’s attention. Bottom: This reverse view of the living room (depicted in the opening spread) shows off the stacked columns of Kapalua blue rock. Note the player piano tucked between two of those columns.

As I turn into the drive, the security gates swing wide. Who’s watching me? I can’t see the house from the gate. It isn’t until I pass the coach house, with its three-car garage, that I spot the expansive structure in the distance. I park my rolling icebox under the porte cochère. My hostess, Victoria, appears, looking cool as a tall gin fizz, barefooted and casually outfitted, her petite frame dwarfed by the oversized front doors behind her. “Did you see me coming?” I ask. “My husband was the founder and CEO of a security company,” she laughs, “So, yes. Your every move is on this iPad.” She welcomes me into the reception hall and I gasp at the view. The living room’s sliding glass walls are flung open to the elements, revealing lush green lawns descending to the rolling surf. The vista extends from Hāwea Point to Makāluapuna Point, and beyond that, to the islands of Lāna‘i and Moloka‘i. A sailboat glides by, seemingly so near that I am tempted to call out to the captain. “It almost feels as if you are on the water,” I comment. “Doesn’t it? But we are 150 feet above sea level, out of the tsunami zone. It was a challenge to find a property close to the sea, but not too close, with unobstructed views of the neighbor islands and Pailolo Channel. We wanted the indoor-outdoor feel of a true tropical lifestyle,” my hostess explains as I remain transfixed by the scene. “It’s hotter than blazes today. How do you keep things cool with all these doors wide open?” I ask. “We are at the very top point of the island and get winds off the ocean and breezes from the West Maui Mountains. We rarely have to run the air-conditioning,” she tells me. “This property was an ugly duckling when we acquired it, with telephone poles and wires, and overgrown, unruly ironwood trees

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It almost feels as if you are on the water.

Top photo: Sheltered by a porte cochère, the front entrance opens to an ocean view. Bottom: From the generous lānai, the island of Moloka‘i stretches across the blue horizon. The hot tub is a favorite location for enjoying a glass of wine and watching the sun sink into the sea.

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« AT HOME »

that blocked this great view. It took two-and-a-half years to have the trees hacked and utilities relocated underground. During that excavation we discovered decades of debris hidden in the dirt, including appliances, building materials . . . and half of an old Jeep! Improving the site was a labor of love, but it was so worth it. The only sounds we hear up here are the wind, the surf, and the song of the whales. In the early-morning hours of whale season we can hear them talking to one another. It amazes us every time. “We put so much thought into this house, the way it would live, function and provide security for our family,” Victoria tells me. “My husband, Tony, considered everything about the site. He took into account the movement of the sun across the horizon. The house is situated to take advantage of the fact that, from one solstice to the next, the sun migrates from the edge of Lāna‘i to the edge of Moloka‘i. As a result, we watch the sun drop into the ocean unobstructed any time of year.” The floor plan was created with similar forethought. With three growing sons, the couple had the home designed to provide areas for separation and privacy, Top: The staircase is a mixed-media work of art made of four decorative woods on a steel frame. To its right sits a John Widdicombe console table with antique gold-leaf mirror. Center: In the master bath, outdoor (shown) and indoor showers bookend a spacious tub that looks out onto a private garden. Bottom: The master bedroom is furnished with a Donghia bed frame and chaise lounge . . . and a sweeping view of Moloka‘i.

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It’s where brothers became best friends.

This does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of an offer to buy a unit. Nor is it an offering or solicitation of sale in any jurisdiction where the development is not registered in accordance with applicable law or where such offering or solicitation would otherwise be prohibited by law. Obtain all disclosure documents required by applicable laws and read them before signing anything. No governmental agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of the development. Further, ownership of a unit in the development will be subject to the terms of various documents relating to the development. The resort project described herein (the “Project”) and the residential units located within the Project (the “Residential Units”) are not owned, developed, or sold by Montage Hotels & Resorts, LLC, its affiliates or their respective licensors (collectively, “Montage”) and Montage does not make any representations, warranties or guaranties whatsoever with respect to the Residential Units, the Project or any part thereof. Island Acquisitions Kapalua LLC uses the Montage brand name and certain Montage trademarks (collectively, the “Operator Trademarks”) in connection with the sales and marketing of the Residential Units in the Project under a limited, non-exclusive, non-transferable and non-sublicensable license from Montage. The foregoing license may be terminated or may expire without renewal, in which case neither the Residential Units nor any part of the Project will be identified as a Montage branded project or have any rights to use the Operator Trademarks.

There must be something in the water. Maybe it’s the Aloha spirit. Or the slowing of time. Whatever it is, this Island — this spot — always seems to bring them closer together. At Montage Residences Kapalua Bay, resort amenities and signature services allow you to return to what matters: making lifelong memories. A limited selection of three- and four-bedroom residences are available, located steps from Maui’s most cherished beach. Prices start at $3.4M. Residences are exclusively listed by Lisa Hatem Real Estate Company. 808-662-6551

Mon tageR esidencesK a palua Bay.com

« AT HOME »

We Are. The Voice of Maui Luxury Real Estate.

BEACHFRONT SOUTH MAUI ESTATE This incredible property, located on South Maui’s Keawakapu Beach, is the epitome of tropical, beachfront living. The home offers travertine and African mahogany flooring, custom cherry wood cabinets and other beautiful, custom features. Additional amenities include a custom 3-car garage and dream workshop! Relax poolside or take a walk through the private gate to the beach for a swim in the Pacific! 2 Bed | 2.5 Bath | 5,468 sq. ft.| .61 Acres

Offered at $15,500,000

------------------------------------------------------------------------------Michele Parker, R(S) (808) 276-9500 Michele@IslandSothebysRealty.com

and inviting gathering spaces for the entire family. The commercial-grade kitchen, dining and family rooms, and a home theater are clustered at one end of the house, with a second media room upstairs, zoned for gaming. The builders installed soundproofing in the walls and floors throughout the home. That way, a little roughhousing and cheering in the media room won’t infringe on those relaxing in the great room below. Despite its size (more than 8,000 square feet of living space), the home doesn’t feel imposing; generous use of natural materials like stone, wood and Kapalua blue rock creates a warm and inviting ambiance. The staircase alone features four different hardwoods wrapped around steel supports,

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Above: A chandelier and zebrawood table separate the kitchen and dining room, while pop-up ceilings, and silk-and-wool rugs by Kravet create definition. Dining table and chairs are by Century, couch by Kravet. Left: the master bath’s indoor shower features honey onyx and golden beach limestone. Below: A domed ceiling and custom couch by Councill add drama to the home theater. VisionArt, by FastFrame, turns every TV in the house into a “painting” when not in use.

creating a structure that is at once functional and beautiful. But the pièce de résistance is the munificent use of koa in kitchen cabinets, wall paneling, and built-in shelves in the master bedroom—all from a single log. “We sourced materials from all over,” says Victoria. “Our interior architect located a huge koa log in Virginia that had been sitting there for some time. We assumed, since koa was lesser known in that part of the world, that no one appreciated its value. So we shipped it to O‘ahu, where Bello’s Millwork did their magic in transforming it.” She leads me into the “boys’ wing,” where she’s unperturbed at finding an unmade bed or two, and demonstrates with her iPad that the paintings on the wall are actually Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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disguised TV screens. (I half-expect a wall to shift and reveal the Bat Cave.) Small wonder that the older boys (one is now in college and the other works in London) love coming home to Maui for holidays. “What’s your favorite thing to do as a family when the gang’s all here?” I ask the soccer mom who still carpools, Mondays through Fridays, in a fifteen-year-old Volvo with an overworked odometer. “The boys enjoy all the water sports and golf, but I like it best when we sit on the lānai, gazing at the view with a glass of wine, talking about our day, and being together.” Who wouldn’t drink to that?

RESOURCES Arrow Glass & Mirrors (shower doors, tabletops, corner windows, mirrors) 792 Alua Street, Bay 5, Wailuku 808-244-3944 Bello’s Millwork (staircase) 401 N. Cane Street, #B-3 Wahiawa, O‘ahu 808-621-7282 | BellosMillwork.com eDesign Group, Inc. (home automation, AV, security) 375 Huku Li‘i Place, Suite 108, Kīhei 808-495-4344 | EDesignHawaii.com Hamai Appliance 332 E. Wākea Avenue, Kahului 808-877-6305 | HamaiAppliance.com

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Best of Maui 2015: Best Home Furnishings Voted by the readers of MauiTime Weekly

A barrel ceiling, custom-made in Kentucky, creates a focal point for a kitchen surrounded by koa cabinets. Appliances include a pair of Wolf ovens, Kuppersbusch stovetop, Sub-Zero refrigerator and wine cooler, Gaggenau steamer and wok, and Dombracht faucets.

Hughes Design Associates (interior architecture & finishes) 7160 S. Beneva Road, Sarasota, FL 941-922-4767 | HughesDesign.com

210 Alamaha Street, Kahului • 808.873.6910 • mauihue.com

Island Plant Company, LLC P.O. Box 880360, Pukalani 808-572-5094 | IslandPlant.com Island Window Covering 300 Ohukai Road, B308, Kīhei 808-874-8602 | IslandWindowCovering.com Kahe Construction LLC (builders) P.O. Box 10277, Lahaina 808-661-KAHE (5243) KaheConstruction.com K-Deck Canvas Corp. (retractable awnings & screens) 1942 E. Vineyard Street, Wailuku 808-242-2889 | KDeckCanvas.com Maui Custom Woodworks (cabinets, hardwood panels) 251 Lalo Street, Kahului 808-877-0239 | MauiCustomWoodworks.com West Maui Electric LLC 48 Aholo Road, Lahaina 808-757-0396 WestMauiElectric@gmail.com Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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T H E O F F I C I A L K A PA L U A E X P E RT S

for over 40 years For 40 years, since the initial development at Kapalua Resort, Kapalua Realty has been the go-to for real estate sales and service. Our team of real estate professionals has over 100 years of combined real estate experience with their pulse on the latest trends and developments in real estate and lifestyle at Kapalua Resort. Our on-resort presence and strong relationships with resort partners give us the inside edge to all things “Kapalua.” Agents are on duty 365 days a year to serve you and are conveniently located in the heart of Kapalua Resort. 8 0 0 . 5 4 5 . V I E W ( 8 4 3 9 ) • 8 0 8 . 6 6 5 . 5 4 5 4 • 7 0 0 O F F I C E R O A D , K A PA L UA R E S O R T PA R A D I S E @ K A PA L U A R E A L T Y. C O M

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We Are. The Voice of Maui Luxury Real Estate. WAILEA | KAPALUA | KULA | HANA | LANA'I

RARE

Oceanfront Property Privacy, Mature Fruit Orchards, Builder Ready

A SPECTACULAR 2-ACRE, beachfront lot located in an exclusive and very private community in Olowalu. The parcel has an approved County of Maui farm plan, breath-taking views of La¯na‘i, Kaho‘olawe and Maui’s south shore. The owners will enjoy a lifetime of endless tropical sunsets and gentle breezes. The parcel is builder ready, comes complete with a producing citrus, mango and coconut orchard, features large monkeypod shade trees, and a private dual water system for domestic and agricultural uses. The perfect location for your private, oceanfront Maui home. Conveniently located directly across from Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop in Olowalu and midway between Wailuku and Lahaina. A MUST-SEE for the discriminating buyer.

SPECTACULAR

Kapalua Acreages With Stunning Ocean and Mountain Views

Honolua Ridge - Phase I, Lot #12: 81 Keoawa Place, Kapalua: 9.298 acres perched above Honolua Bay with a private access road that drops you right in front of one of Maui’s most alluring and special bays. Stunning views of Moloka‘i and the West Maui coast. The perfect location to build the home of your dreams surrounded by lush tropical gardens. The views are endless, the air is crisp and the beaches and golf are only minutes away.

Offered at $1,295,000

Property is offered at $5,800,000.

Honolua Ridge - Phase II, Lot #22: 242 Keoawa Street, Kapalua: 6.259 acres of breathtaking views. From your house site you’ll enjoy endless views of nearby islands, tropical sunsets and the deep blue waters of the Pailolo Channel. The site is situated near the top of the development, giving you easy access to pristine mountain hikes, the beaches of Kapalua and enough land to create your own private tropical paradise.

Offered at $1,595,000

JAMIE WOODBURN, R(S) | EMAIL: JAMIEWOODBURN1@GMAIL.COM | CELL: 808.870.5671 UPCOUNTRY OFFICE • (808) 572-8600 • WWW.ISLANDSIR.COM | EACH OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED

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 ADVENTURE/HAWAIIAN SOUL 

A millennium before Haleakalā became a national park, Hawaiians traversed its moonscape crater. On the park’s centennial, we reprise that journey. Story by SHANNON WIANECKI | Photography by RYAN SIPHERS

INTO THE HOUSE OF THE SUN In Haleakalā National Park’s backcountry, hikers can discover a wilderness devoid of the hum of human traffic. Even low-flying aircraft are forbidden in the airspace above.

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‘Ama‘u ferns on the Halemau‘u Switchback Trail unfurl bright red fronds that turn green as they mature. Sam ‘Ohukani‘ōhi‘a Gon III serves as both scientist and Hawaiian cultural advisor for The Nature Conservancy. Before venturing into the crater, he asks permission with a traditional chant. Below: Haleakalā silverswords grow only at the summit. Young plants such as this one decorate the sides of cinder cones.

“This is a very ‘ohu day,” says Sam Gon III. We stand at the uppermost edge of Haleakalā’s vast volcanic expanse, watching the morning mist tiptoe into Ko‘olau Gap. “‘Ohu is a warm, rising mist,” says Gon, with a grin. “It’s also me.” His middle name, ‘Ohukani‘ōhi‘a, means “the mist that quenches the thirst of the ‘ōhi‘a tree.” He ties on a kīhei (cape) and asks photographer Ryan Siphers and me to draw near. The three of us are about to embark on an overnight backpacking trip into Haleakalā’s wilderness and before we do, it’s Hawaiian protocol to ask permission. Gon’s sonorous voice spills out across the fire-forged valley. Playing with the word ‘ohu, he announces who we are, where we come from, and what our intentions are. Gon possesses his Hawaiian ancestors’ knack for tucking kaona, or hidden meanings, into every syllable. “Who are you asking permission from?” I ask. Gon pauses, then sweeps his arm across the vista. “All of the elements.” The lava boulders, the hesitant breeze, the storm petrels hidden in their burrows . . . according to Hawaiian cosmology, familial ties connect us to every aspect of nature. In addition, certain plants and phenomena are kinolau, embodiments of specific gods. Today we enter their place: wao akua, the uplands. Realm of the gods. It’s appropriate to introduce ourselves first. When I checked the weather forecast yesterday, it predicted rain, all weekend long. Gon, who flew over from O‘ahu for this trip, shrugged, unconcerned. During his four decades as a field biologist in Hawai‘i, he has explored the archipelago’s mountains in all of their moods. Still, he interprets the unexpected sunshine and the wind’s momentary stillness following his chant as benevolent signs. Gon straddles two worlds: scientific and spiritual. For the past 62

thirty years he’s worked for The Nature Conservancy, evolving from ecologist to director of landscape conservation. Since 1995, he’s practiced traditional Hawaiian chant, hula, and protocol—a student of revered kumu (teacher) John Keolamaka‘āinana Lake. Fortuitously, Gon’s worlds intersect. After he graduated as a kahuna kākalaleo (chant practitioner), his bosses at The Conservancy added this new skillset to his official duties. He sits on the state’s Board of Land and Natural

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« ADVENTURE/HAWAIIAN SOUL »

Clouds creep in through Ko‘olau Gap as we hike towards Hōlua campground, on the far side of the basin.

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« ADVENTURE/HAWAIIAN SOUL » Minerals erode at varied rates, resulting in the dramatic colors of Keonehe‘ehe‘e, the trail better known as Sliding Sands. Below: Nēnē (Hawaiian geese) are among the rarest birds on Earth, but are easy to spot within Haleakalā National Park. While nēnē here have grown accustomed to humans, other native birds and insects that comprise the crater’s fauna are far more elusive.

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Clusters of ‘ena‘ena flowers stand on tall silver stalks—one of the many indigenous Hawaiian plants along Keonehe‘ehe‘e Trail.

Resources and works closely with the Hawaiian Lexicon Committee, helping steer the future of Hawai‘i’s landscape and its native language. Of all the places he’s reconnoitered, Haleakalā National Park ranks among his favorites. He first volunteered here in the late seventies, while conducting his doctoral studies on Hawaiian happy faced spiders. “To do entomology in this place,” he says, “you have to spend a long time laying on the ground.” In between spider hunts, he helped build fences, monitor rare plants, and eradicate invasive species within the park.

This year, Haleakalā celebrates its 100th birthday as a national park. President Woodrow Wilson established the National Park Service in 1916. Hawai‘i Volcanoes and Haleakalā were among the first inductees; they started out as a single park and became two in 1960. For at least 1,000 years prior, Hawaiians have climbed the 10,023foot summit. When they did, it was for specific purpose: to study the stars, perform sacred ceremonies, or gather resources. From inside the crater, they collected fine-grained basalt for making adzes, and fat ‘ua‘u (storm petrel) chicks, a delicacy reserved for chiefs. Though

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it’s hard to imagine, the crater also served as a shortcut between Central and East Maui. Tough Hawaiian feet would’ve had no trouble navigating the cinder trails, says Gon—who, in his five-toed Vibrams, is close to barefoot himself. The sun is already high as we tromp down the trail from the summit, weighed down by our packs. I’ve been visiting Haleakalā since I was eleven, but this is Siphers’s first visit. He’s bowled over by the panorama. Red, black, and taupe cinders swoosh down the steep crater walls, each colored stripe a geologic clue. The trail’s name makes perfect sense: Keonehe‘ehe‘e, Sliding Sands. The terrain looks active, volatile, as if the eruption is still happening, but in slow motion. Gon points out each new plant species we encounter with fresh delight, as if spotting a friend. He particularly likes the fractallike kūpaoa, a close relative of the famous

Haleakalā silversword. Gon and Siphers stop often to photograph favorite specimens. At this rate, our 7.4-mile hike to the Hōlua campground will take all day. Fine by me. The slow pace allows me time to prod Gon for stories. He starts with a tale of trickery: “Hua, a chief from Hāna, sent his bird catchers out for ‘ua‘u. There was a kapu [restriction] on the lowland nests, but the bird catchers didn’t want to hike all the way up to the Haleakalā nests. Instead, they caught some lowland chicks and rubbed their bellies with cinder dirt. The chief’s kahuna [priest], Kaluaho‘omoe, saw through the deceit immediately and confiscated the ‘ua‘u. The bird catchers then told Hua that the priest had kept the birds for himself. So Hua had Kaluaho‘omoe burned alive in his hale [house]. Three years went by; no rainfall. A kahuna on O‘ahu saw that the devastating drought was spreading. He looked for clouds.

Above: Weather changes moment to moment at the 10,023-foot summit, ranging from intense sun to wet fog and even snow. Opposite, top left: Feathery hinahina kū pali (Maui artemisia) has a fragrant smell. Top right: Silverswords keep their spherical shape most of their lives—five to fifteen years—before a flower stalk emerges. Once the plant blooms, it dies. This young one has flowered early, perhaps a symptom of climate change. Bottom left: Yellow-flowered kūpaoa belongs to the silversword alliance, an astonishingly diverse group of plants that descended from a single ancestor. Bottom right: Racomitrium moss like this led Sam Gon to a surprising discovery some thirty years ago. The moss is habitat for tardigrades (also called “water bears” or “moss piglets”), eight-legged, snouted creatures smaller than a pencil tip, that can survive exteme conditions—even outer space. Sam Gon and a colleague found about forty different tardigrade species in Haleakalā. “Hawai‘i is the heart of tardigrade biodiversity on the planet,” he says.

In the center of the crater, massive cinder cones testify to the mountain’s fiery origin.

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BOTTOM RIGHT: FOREST & KIM STARR

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« ADVENTURE/HAWAIIAN SOUL » Hawaiians view rainbows (ānuenue) as hō‘ailona, or signs. This one appeared at daybreak over the Hōlua campground, a sweet omen before our day’s hike.

The only clouds he found were above remote Hana‘ula in West Maui. He went there and found Kaluaho‘omoe’s two sons, who had fled before the fire. The kahuna asked for forgiveness and made offerings. The drought ended. “Meanwhile, the folks that perpetrated the disaster were all dead. The proverb says, Nakeke nā iwi o Hua i ka lā, ‘the bones of Hua rattle in the sun.’ Because of the drought, when Hua died, there were no keepers to hide his bones. They were left exposed, which is the ultimate disgrace.” Heavy. I assume that the story’s message is: don’t lie and don’t trust liars. But Gon explains the ecological ramifications. “It’s a lesson about long-term consequences,” he says. “Every generation inherits issues from the generations before. Despite the fact that we are not responsible for creating it, we are responsible for fixing it.” After Haleakalā became a national park, considerable efforts went into restoring the native ecosystems. For many years prior, ranchers had run cattle through the crater. Feral goats ranged freely, nibbling rare native trees to nubs. It took park staff, volunteers, and local hunters the better part of a century to remove the animals and fence the park’s perimeter. Without their labors, many of Haleakalā’s treasures would have been lost. A single māmane tree stands beside a hitching post at the base of the trail. The only shade for miles, it welcomes every passerby: human, horse, bird, or insect. We sit beneath its low branches and share lunch. As we continue into the heart of the crater, each step further removes us from cellphone range, from the ceaseless hum of modern life. I feel deep gratitude for those who fought to keep helicopters

Pūkiawe looks like an evergreen you might find in North America. This indigenous shrub grows from sea level to summit. In days past, ali‘i (chiefs) used its white smoke and ash to reduce their mana (spiritual power) temporarily, so they could mingle with commoners.

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Most of the life forms that inhabit the crater are tiny, seen only in passing—if at all. This shrub wears the remains of a native spider’s web.

‘Iliahi (Hawaiian sandalwood) once covered Haleakalā’s hillsides; overharvesting left only a few trees, some of which can be seen on Halemau‘u Trail.

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Studded with stars, the celestial fabric rotates overhead at night. During spring and summer, Hawaiian petrels (‘ua‘u) come whirring in at top speed after dark, destined for their rock burrows. Trailside, you’ll find a tapestry of native shrubs emerging from the lavascape. The top photo in the column at right shows shiny black kūkaenēnē berries; the middle photo red a‘ali‘i seed capsules, a favorite lei-making material; the bottom photo pilo berries.

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« ADVENTURE/HAWAIIAN SOUL » out of this airspace. I think of John Muir, that tireless champion of untrammeled horizons. In Our National Parks, he wrote, “Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity.” He wrote that 115 years ago. Right now, in this wildness, the only sounds are the huff of my own breath and my boots sinking into the gravely sand. Occasionally a breeze ricochets through the pu‘u, or cinder cones. Haleakalā has been called the quietest spot on Earth. In the stillness, time evaporates. It is a human contrivance, after all. This silent, scorched moonscape may appear devoid of life, but Haleakalā shelters an assortment of extraordinary species that exist nowhere else. The silverswords speckling the side of Ka Moa o Pele, a large brick-red pu‘u, look like little metallic porcupines, some topped with flower bouffants. Sam is heartened to see so many keiki (young) plants. It’s a hopeful sign in an ecosystem already showing the ravages of climate change. The soft geometry of this spot reminds me of something Georgia O’Keeffe might paint. Three pu‘u of various hues—red, faun, and grey—overlay each other to form a deep V. Cloud shadows flicker across their faces. Fog seeps into the passage between like an inhalation. We come to a crossroads between the two largest pu‘u. It has the potent energy of a fairy tale. I expect a troll or hobbit to appear. Instead, we see a mound of rocks, which Gon says could be a burial. “If you were pili [close] with your akua [god] you could be buried here.” The site’s remoteness guaranteed that your bones—and your mana, or spiritual power—wouldn’t be disturbed. For the same reason, Hawaiian mothers journeyed to the summit to hide their newborns’ umbilical cords.

We pass beyond the north ridge into Ko‘olau Gap’s cloudscape. The air itself is wet. This isn’t ‘ohu, it’s noe: a cold, descending cloud. I wonder what it must’ve been like to traverse this extreme terrain in the days before waterproof coats and feather-light packs. We’re crossing a flat, long-cooled lava plain, but beneath us, untamed forest tumbles down to Ke‘anae Peninsula, to the edge of the ocean. A few years back, Gon and some colleagues went looking for remnants of the King’s Highway in this remote region. They found evidence: a few polished rocks and C-shaped structures that offered protection against prevailing winds. They also found a rare endemic iris, mau‘u hō‘ula ili. Traditionally, Hawaiians used the plant’s juice to redden the ili (skin), making a temporary tattoo. Gon and company thought it would be fun to experiment. They cut the iris’s leaves into geometric patterns and taped them onto their arms, forehead, and ankles. A few hours later, hot red blisters formed. It turns out that the leaves should’ve been applied for just one hour, and that “temporary” meant a year or more! By late afternoon, we reach the Hōlua campground, tucked up against the crater’s western wall. At 6,940 feet, it’s chilly and wet, but not mind-numbingly cold the way the summit can be. We pitch the tent and assemble our dinner: steamed breadfruit, smoked fish, baked sweet potato, and poi, sprinkled with black sea salt. It’s similar to what Hawaiians of the past might’ve eaten. Gon chants over our little feast—thrice blessed by the fisherman and farmers who contributed to it. Food shared in this manner is true sustenance. The sun drops away, and stars pierce the velvet sky—one by one and then by hundreds. Dark clouds swiftly gather to blot it all out. Rain dumps hard all night, but we sleep snug and dry in our tent. In Tucked up against the cliffs, Hōlua campground serves as prime headquarters for day hikes.

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Often shrouded in mist, the Halemau‘u Switchback Trail is home to ‘ōhelo (lower right) and fragrant Maui artemisia (the feathery hinahina pictured on page 67). At the top of the trail, look for the lovely native geranium whose five-petaled blossom is shown here at lower left.

the morning, we are greeted by a full horseshoe rainbow shimmering in the mist next to our tent. Giddy as kids, we scamper across the lava flow, capturing photographic proof of this miracle and trying to stand beneath it. We pack up and head out. Hōlua’s resident nēnē (Hawaiian geese) honk and hiss goodbye. Today’s hike is mostly uphill, up the Halemau‘u switchbacks that cut across a sheer, forested cliff face. We ascend through a drenching mist. I crush a sprig of endemic wormwood between my fingers. Its feathery gray leaves are referenced in its name, hinahina (silver/gray) kū pali (standing tall on the cliff). I ask Gon a question I’ve been pondering. How would a Hawaiian approach to conservation differ from the current Western model? “It would involve more community,” he says, pausing to marvel over a spectacular scarlet fern. “The people who live in a region and know its resources intimately would be consulted. And rules wouldn’t be permanent, but contextual; they would change with seasons.” He offers the ‘ua‘u from yesterday’s story as an example: the kapu during their

breeding season allowed populations to rebound. In the past, the konohiki—a kind of caretaker or true landlord—would observe the plants, animals, and weather over the course of a year or much longer. If things were imbalanced, action was taken. Perhaps Haleakalā could again be managed this way. Indigenous resource management has a modern precedent. In 2014, the New Zealand government ceded ownership and responsibility of Te Urewera National Park to a new board guided by traditional Maori principles. The law establishing the board acknowledges that “Te Urewera is ancient and enduring, a fortress of nature, alive with history; its scenery is abundant with mystery, adventure, and remote beauty.” Soaked through with sweat and mist, we reach the top of the switchbacks. Gon pauses to look back and offer a chant of thanks. I recall the protocol at the start of our journey. More than eleven miles and twenty-four hours later, our orientation on this planet is different. New. Where we come from, who we are, and our intentions have shifted ever so slightly.

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« ADVENTURE/HAWAIIAN SOUL » Grown here, not flown here: This 100 percent locally sourced dinner tasted fantastic after a long, wet day on the trail. As Hawaiian hikers might have done in the past, we prepped our baked sweet potato, steamed breadfruit, and smoked fish and poi in advance, so we didn’t have to pack in cooking supplies.

See more photos from our trip at MauiMagazine.net/ IntoTheHouseOfTheSun

IF YOU GO

For more information, visit NPS.gov/hale.

To explore Haleakalā’s backcountry, you need a permit, which you get after watching a short film at park headquarters. Tent camping is free with park entrance fee, but limited to three nights. If you prefer to stay in one of the three wilderness cabins, reservations can be made online. They cost $75, sleep up to 12, and book far in advance.

Weather conditions can be extreme, ranging from snow to intense solar radiation. Bring layered clothes, sunscreen and raingear.

Take two cars. Park one at Halemau‘u Trailhead (your endpoint) and the other at Keonehe‘ehe‘e Trailhead (your starting point).

Walking for hours on uneven lava and steep inclines can be strenuous. Wear sturdy shoes, and bring moleskin, first aid kit, and walking sticks.

Leave no trace. If you packed it in, pack it out. Bring water and a water filter. Cabins have nonpotable water.

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« ARTIST ON LOCATION »

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Long before his paintings entered the collections of the State Foundation on Culture & the Arts, and Hawai‘i State Museum; before they appeared in national exhibits and won national awards, Macario Pascual was an immigrant kid lost in a bewildering new culture.

Above: With Hawai‘i’s last sugar mill, in Pu‘unēnē, as backdrop, Macario Pascual continues to depict plantation life, as he has for decades. Opposite: His painting Sweet Cane (oil, 39"x31") pays homage to his father’s honest labor, and references the only treat that camp children could rely on—sugarcane. Below: Crystal Clear (oil, 9"x12") captures the play of light on water.

Macario Pascual was five years old in 1962, when he and his mother left the Philippines to join his father at Pu‘ukoli‘i Village, a plantation camp run by Pioneer Mill. “I couldn’t speak the language,” he says. “I didn’t have a lot of friends.” But Macario could draw. “By third grade, I was good at it; that’s how I started making friends.” Art became the bridge between his old life and the new. Walking home from school, he would pass the studio of artists Stephen Sands and Cecilia Rodriguez. “I would see their paintings through the screen, and my curiosity got the best of me. They welcomed me in. Stephen was a velvet artist, and yes, I started with velvet. With a really good velvet painting, you can still feel the nap. It’s like old masters’ paintings, with many thin layers of paint.” By the time he was twelve, Macario was selling his work under Lahaina’s banyan tree, alongside older and more accomplished artists. “I had my first show at Lahaina Arts Society when I was seventeen. After the show, I told my dad, ‘This is what I want to do.’ I was bracing for the worst. My father had only a fourth-grade education. He came in 1946 with the last big group of sakadas [Filipino men hired to work on Hawai‘i’s plantations]. He came for a guaranteed paycheck, and he’s talking to his oldest boy— who wants something that’s not a secure occupation. After a quiet pause,

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Above: Pascual painted Kumu Farm (oil, 12"x16") during the 2015 Maui Plein Air Painting Invitational. Opposite: Big Valley (oil, 36"x48") and Hot in Pink (oil, 45.5"x34") both appeared in the Roots—Plantation Life Revisited exhibit at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, in 2014, along with Sweet Cane. To learn the stories behind the paintings, visit PascualFineArts.com/Roots_Project.

he said, ‘Okay, but you know it’s a tough life.’ I think he saw how hard I worked, how art was my passion.” With the help of an art scholarship, Macario attended the University of Hawai‘i, graduating with a BFA in design. His sophomore year coincided with the seventieth anniversary of Filipino immigration to Hawai‘i; it pulled him back to his roots. “The research I did opened my eyes. I started thinking, ‘I want to paint people like my dad.’” Macario started filling his canvases with the people and scenes he’d grown up surrounded by: brown-skinned men and women laboring in the fields, hands in thick work gloves cutting the cane with machetes, backs stooped to gather the stalks to load onto cane-haul trucks, anonymous workers in head-to-toe clothing that protected them from cane spiders and centipedes in the hot Lahaina sun. His work caught the eye of Richard Nelson, an artist and educator who was then executive director of the Wailea Arts Center, which was owned by Alexander & Baldwin—one of Hawai‘i’s “Big Five” corporations and parent company of Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar. When the corporate offices decided to commission a major art show in Honolulu, celebrating sugar in Hawai‘i, Nelson recommended Macario. “He was just a kid, right out of college, but he was a natural. He has always been a colorist, picking the time of day when the sun has a warm light. His work hit a responsive chord with A&B.”

Nelson saw in Macario’s depictions of plantation workers the kind of empathy and affection the French Realist Jean-François Millet invested in his painting The Gleaners (1857). “The idea of bringing dignity to a [working-class] level of society, showing common, ordinary scenes . . . Realism went against what was then the status quo and changed the definition of what is art,” says Nelson. But while Macario was establishing himself as an artist who could capture plantation life with richness and depth, dignity and compassion, Hawai‘i’s sugar industry was struggling against increasing competition. When Pioneer Mill closed in 1999, it left HC&S, in Maui’s Central Valley, the state’s last surviving sugar plantation. And as HC&S mechanized, says Macario, “My source of human subjects disappeared.” He began to focus more on landscapes, returning to an early interest in plein air. Instead of sketching or photographing his subjects and going back to the studio to paint, Macario would set up his easel out on location and work to capture the landscape before the sunlight changed. He participated in plein-air shows around the county, and in the Maui Plein Air Painting Invitational, which each year brings in respected artists from Hawai‘i and the mainland for a week of painting outdoors, with the public invited to watch. “Plein air has made me a better, more flexible artist,” say Macario.

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ARTIST ON LOCATION

“The biggest difficulty is, there’s so much information, and things are in constant motion—people, clouds, trees. . . . It’s hard to process it all. When I’m looking at a photo, I tend to paint almost everything the photo gives, because it’s not moving. With plein air, I’m taking notes. I decide how much or how little information I’ll show.” But he wasn’t painting what he loved best: the people and activities of his childhood. “I thought that era was gone,” he says. Four years ago, a collector changed his mind. “My biggest collector,” he recalls. “She felt that I should do what I know and hold dear. She gave me a grant to do a theme I had talked about, plantation life revisited. Using models and props, old photos and drawings for reference, I came up with seven large paintings; each has a story. That’s when I realized that I can go back. I can’t paint workers in the fields anymore; the fields are gone. But when I was painting in the late seventies, eighties and nineties, I was focusing on the work, and not showing my subjects’ faces. I want to go back and paint the faces, to learn and be inspired by who they are, where they came from, what they felt.” At Plantation Days, an annual celebration of Lahaina’s past, Macario found himself reconnecting with folks he hadn’t seen in years, and having his paintings viewed by people he’d never met. “It dawned on me that a lot of Lahaina kids have no idea what that smokestack stands for. They don’t know that there were buildings around it, and trucks, and fields of green cane blowing in the wind. These kids will inherit their parents’ and grandparents’ photos and memorabilia, and be one step away from tossing them.” He’s begun to ask families to let him explore their photo albums, so that he can tell their stories through his art. “Maybe I’ll recreate a photo as a painting, or incorporate aspects of it into my own story. Photos get handed down, but they’re easy to throw away if you don’t know the stories behind them. A painting is something you can hold onto. You might give it away, or sell it at the flea market, but the story gets to live on. Maybe the kids will discover the story and appreciate where they came from and what they have. I think that would be pretty cool.” If you’re on Maui the week of February 13 to 21, look for Macario painting on location during the 2016 Maui Plein Air Invitational. His solo exhibition with Village Galleries in Lahaina runs February 26 through March 17. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Dining

STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

COURTESY OF HYATT REGENCY MAUI/JAPENGO

Japengo’s award-winning chef de cuisine Gevin Utrillo (right) and sushi chef Jin Hosono are the dynamic duo who create menus with the bold and delicate flavors of Pacific Rim cuisine. Their monthly Maui Tastemakers Series features reasonably priced four- to five-course dinners with select wine or beer pairings.

Five years ago, Japengo opened its doors as the Hyatt Regency Maui’s signature restaurant. It’s been winning awards ever since. In 2012, the readers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine gave the venue Silver ‘Aipono Awards for Best New Restaurant and Best Sushi. Between 2013 and 2015, Japengo scored two more Silver ‘Aiponos (for Best Seafood and Best Asian Cuisine), and four Gold ‘Aiponos (for Best Sushi and Best Pacific Rim Cuisine). That doesn’t surprise me. Hyatt’s Executive Chef Greg Grohowski combed O‘ahu’s sushi restaurants, dining at twelve in three days, looking for the best sushi specialist for Japengo. That chef was Jin Hosono, a veteran of the notable Nobu’s Waikīkī and Honolulu’s Doraku. He now works with Hyatt’s awardwinning Chef de Cuisine Gevin Utrillo; they are the dynamic duo behind the fare at this Pacific Rim restaurant and sushi bar. Knowing that Japengo’s stellar kitchen staff thrives on taste and innovation, my daughter Tori and I are delighted when Karli Sullivan, Hyatt’s director of public relations, invites us to join her for pau hana (happy hour) at what has become one of my favorite island restaurants. As we walk past Japengo’s bar to the covered al fresco dining room, live contemporary Hawaiian music fills the air, captivating some revelers, while others are engaged in deep conversation, sipping tropical libations and nibbling savory appetizers. Karli says, “I was planning on having a cocktail in the bar, but it doesn’t look like there are any seats.” Since the restaurant is located on a rise with expansive views, the change to the dining room doesn’t bother me one iota. As we sit, the setting sun paints the ocean and distant clouds luscious reds and golden yellows reminiscent of a Polynesian fire-dance. Our server arrives with iced watermelon soju cocktails. The melon, lime, and hydrating coconut-water refreshment puts us in the tasting mood and pairs well with our appetizer: the pinkest hamachi sashimi and local watermelon garnished with lychee pearls, spicy bits of sriracha tempura, and my favorite ponzu sauce. When I mention that my older daughter, Kali, was recently married on Maui, Karli’s face

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Dining brightens. She tells us that the Hyatt’s newlywed package includes a fun demonstration on preparing poke (pronounced poh-KAY), the raw-fish dish that has captured the savory appetites of visitors and locals alike. Matt Rapping, general manager for Japengo, happens by our table and he fills us in on the newlywed package. “Chef has all of the ingredients prepped prior to the [demonstration]. He gives a brief description of poke and its origin at lū‘au, where Hawaiians used the bounty of the ocean to celebrate. He also draws parallels to engage the wedding guests, [noting] that all cultures have their own forms of raw product, whether crudo or carpaccio or tartar. He then demonstrates the preparation, mixing the locally sourced ingredients together.” Matt adds, “We present the dish on the sushi bar, buffet style, but it’s a play on nachos. Instead of tortilla chips, we serve the poke with taro and sweet potato chips and “edamole”—our version of guacamole, made with puréed edamame [soy beans]. The edamole is garnished with Maui Surfing Goat cheese, pico de gallo, and two types of tobiko, regular and wasabi flavored. Guests dive in and build their own Pacific Rim nachos!” This sounds like a fun experience for newlyweds; we vow to share the information with our friends. As Matt departs, I notice a dozen diners in a private area defined by a karesanui (rock garden). Karli tells us that guests can request the space for a party of up to twenty people. I’ll have to take this info back to the office and suggest it for our next employee-appreciation dinner. Our entrées arrive, bringing a pause to our conversation as we admire the artistry of the platings. Chefs Gevin and Jin have outdone themselves. My first bite is Chef Jin’s delicately flavored sushi rice wrapped in tender yellow yuba (paper-thin sheets of soybean curd). Below: A cooking demo for newlyweds marries Hawaiian poke with Mexican flair, serving the seasoned raw fish with taro and purple sweet potato chips, “edamole” and salsa fresca. Above: Crème brûlée crowns a slice of grilled Maui pineapple and rum syrup-soaked cake. Li hing mui cherries and young coconut shavings complete the delectable dessert.

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Above: Buttery mashed potatoes with edamame and kim chee compliment a filet mignon served with an Asian demi-glace of red plum wine reduction and ginger. The dish arrives with seasonal Maui produce like this simmered kabocha pumpkin and bok choy. Top: Chef Jin’s assorted sushi platter elevates seafood to an art.

WEB EXCLUSIVE Find chefs recipe for Ozoni on our website! MauiMagazine.net/Ozoni

It’s balanced—like a good marriage—with a generous filling of unagi, crab and avocado slices. Garnished with kabayaki sauce and a light shichimi-mayo drizzle, the luscious sushi is easily a meal in itself. Tori slices into the tender filet of beef, dipping it into the dark-red plum wine and ginger demi-glace, and savors her first bite. She gives me a “Yes!” smile. Sides of fresh asparagus, cooked al dente, and buttery kim chee edamame mashed potato, get enthusiastic thumbs up. Karli’s dish—a tower of lobster, Kaua‘i shrimps, scallops and Manila clams on thick udon noodles bathing in a golden tsuyu broth—has me wishing I’d ordered it, too. I make it known that I must taste everything! Each dish is perfectly seasoned. The tsuyu broth, with its rich seafood essence, is as fine as a French bouillabaisse; and the beef filet is cooked to medium-rare perfection. The portions are generous and we almost bow out of dessert, until I remember the flaming crème brûlée crowning a grilled, caramelized slice of Maui pineapple and rum-syrup-soaked cake. We surprise ourselves by managing to make the dessert disappear. The evening has disappeared, too, and we’re sad to have our dining experience at Japengo come to an end. Karli raises our spirits by offering to send us Chef Jin’s recipe for ozoni, a seafood broth traditionally enjoyed during Japanese New Year. Until you can enjoy Japengo for yourself, try that recipe at MauiMagazine.net/Ozoni. Japengo Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa 200 Nohea Kai Drive, Kā‘anapali 808-667-4909 Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Dining MAUI MIXOLOGY

Watermelon Shochu Cocktail Japengo general manager Matt Rapping shared this refreshing recipe. Shochu (soju in Korean) is a distillate usually made from rice, but sometimes from sweet potato or other carbohydrate; it’s approximately 20 to 25 percent alcohol. INGREDIENTS 1¼ oz. shochu 1 oz. watermelon liqueur 1 oz. fresh lime juice 4–6 oz. coconut water lime wheel METHOD Combine shochu, liqueur and lime juice, top with coconut water, and serve on the rocks with a lime-wheel garnish.

lahaina fried soup yakitori

pahole salad

star udon

garlic noodles

singapore noodles

steamed pork buns hapa ramen

ahi avo pad thai

sake cocktails

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JPG_Ma

presents the

‘aipono wine dinner series The ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series brings you fine wines paired with superb cuisine at surprisingly reasonable prices. Proceeds benefit UH-Maui Culinary Academy. To sign up for the ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series mailing list, visit MauiMagazine.net or call 808.242.8331.

An exquisite wine showcase created by Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants

DRINK | LEARN | EAT | SUPPORT The next wine dinner will be hosted by: Fairmont Kea Lani 4100 Wailea Alanui Drive Wailea Friday, February 12 6:00 pm Reception 6:30 pm Dinner Call for reservations. 875-2210 For menu, visit MauiMagazine.net/AiponoDinners Price to be determined $25 from each dinner goes to Maui Culinary Academy.

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The theme for the evening will be:

Oregon Wine Dinner Why wait until February 14th to celebrate Valentine’s Day? Come indulge your passion for food and wine at this lovely mingling of Oregon wines selected by Charles Fredy and perfectly paired with Kō’s Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine. Chef, husband, father, cookbook author, fisherman and educator Tylun Pang brings to Maui’s culinary scene a sense of place as he shares with the world Hawai‘i’s food culture at Kō. Named for the Hawaiian word for sugarcane, the restaurant is widely praised for its celebration of the Islands’ multicultural plantation heritage. Readers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine voted Kō the Gold winner for Best Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine at the 2015 ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards; in 2014, ‘Aipono honored Pang with a Lifetime Achievement Award. What Maui Likes to Eat is Pang’s award-winning compilation of food, history and recipes from Hawai‘i’s plantation days. Proceeds from this cookbook have contributed to scholarships for students at Maui Culinary Academy—as does every ‘Aipono Wine Dinner.

11/27/15 9:22 PM

Dining » CHEF’S KITCHEN

THE CHEF BEHIND THE GOURMET Lloyd Aoki’s ABCs are compassion, knowledge and hard work. STORY BY BECKY SPEERE PHOTOGRAPHY BY NINA KUNA

“Hi! Try our prime-rib slider,” says the smiling, dark-eyed fellow working one of the food booths at the 2015 Kapalua Wine and Food Festival. Glancing at his name tag, I realize I’ve just been greeted by Lloyd Aoki, the chef in charge of all things culinary at ABC Stores on the Valley Isle. One of the largest and oldest family-owned companies in Hawai‘i, ABC is about to open Island Gourmet Markets in The Shops at Wailea. A high-end sister store to ABC, Island Gourmet began in Waikoloa on the Big Island, carrying fresh island produce, Hawai‘i-made products, and a full-service takeout deli. The Wailea venue will be Maui’s first—and part of Aoki’s purview. Two months later, I’m sitting at a wrought-iron bistro table in the newly opened Island Gourmet Markets (Aoki’s Wailea “office”), learning more about the face behind the food. A graduate of the University of Hawai‘i’s businessmanagement program, Aoki seems a humble, local soul; his demeanor is one of quiet respect. “I took six years to get my degree,” he says. “I was a full-time student and a full-time cook. Although my parents wanted to pay for my college, I felt I should pay for my own education.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Dining » CHEF’S KITCHEN “My first restaurant job was dishwashing at the Buccaneer, where Karen Keawehawai‘i performed. I was promoted to bussing tables, then up to cook. Later, I worked for three years as a lead cook at Monterey Bay Canners Seafood Restaurant in ‘Aiea.” His baccalaureate degree opened new doors. He joined ABC as a manager trainee at the chain’s busiest Waikīkī store, at the now-closed Waikīkī 3 Theatre location. Three years later, he was assigned his own store, at the intersection of Kūhiō and Kalākaua. He moved to Maui in 1988, managing ABC’s Kīhei store just as the company was beginning to expand its food department. Aoki’s restaurant experience proved to be a blessing. Today, as area deli manager, he oversees food production for all of ABC’s Maui locations, including the four stores he helped open.

Given Aoki’s penchant for the restaurant industry, I ask why he chose a business degree, instead. “I studied management so I could give myself more job options,” he tells me. “I didn’t want to get ‘stuck’ in the food industry.” Then he adds, “Food innovation is everywhere. It’s a great time to be in the food industry, whether you’re a chef, or in management. [At ABC and Island Gourmet Markets] we can provide the tastes of Hawai‘i to the visitor, plus the locals enjoy our diverse menu, too. “I’m a lot more hands-on in the kitchen now, but management is still a large part of my job. It’s different from when I started. Today’s manager needs to be compassionate, understanding, and patient. It’s a new generation [of employees].” His advice for those who aspire to upper management: “Learn as much as you can. And also know

that expectations in the food and hospitality industry are high. I worked every Christmas and New Year’s for thirty years. It’s life. With success come sacrifices. I enjoy my job and all the daily challenges that come with it.” As I peruse the new Island Gourmet Markets menu, my eyes settle on the Sunday and Thursday lunch-dinner special for $12.99: prime-rib plate. Choices of rotisserie chicken and barbequed baby back ribs fill out the rest of the week. I also note barista services, breakfast offerings (e.g., avocado-BLT omelette) and a full deli menu complete with island-style plate lunches. I could be here for months, exploring the menu through tastings! Island Gourmet Markets The Shops at Wailea 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea 808-874-5077 | IslandGourmetHawaii.com

Prime Rib au Jus, à la Island Gourmet Markets Yield 6–9 servings|Prep Time 10 minutes Cooking Time Approximately 25 minutes per pound for medium-rare Ingredients 5–8 lb. bone-in rib roast (2–3 ribs) 3 Tbsp. canola oil 3 Tbsp. Hawaiian salt, or to taste 1–2 tsp. fresh cracked black pepper, or to taste 1 Tbsp. fresh rosemary leaves 5–10 fresh garlic cloves 4 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

Method Rub entire roast with canola oil, then with Hawaiian salt and coarse black pepper. In a food processor, finely chop garlic, rosemary leaves, and olive oil, scraping sides once. Place roast rib-side down in roasting pan. Rub top of roast with garlic-rosemary blend. Place roast, uncovered, in a preheated 400° oven for 15 minutes, then reduce heat to 200° degrees. Cook until internal temperature reaches 120°. Remove from oven, cover with foil, and let rest for at least 20 minutes. After resting, trim off rib bones.

Jus ½ medium onion, diced ½ c. celery, diced 1 4-inch sprig of fresh rosemary 2 Tbsp. olive oil 12 oz. beef stock salt & pepper

Au Jus Sauté onions, celery and rosemary sprig in olive oil. Add beef stock and drippings from roast (from bottom of the pan). Bring to a boil and simmer 5 minutes. Adjust seasoning (salt & pepper). Strain into a sauceboat and serve on the side.

Above: Chef Lloyd slices an 8-ounce cut of medium-rare prime rib for a hungry customer. Below, from left: Aoki distributes the chopped garlic and rosemary over the beef for a tasty crust. The secret to his prime rib’s depth of flavor is fresh rosemary and garlic. Roasting slowly at low temperature helps the meat retain moisture and tenderness.

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F L E E T W O O D ’ S O N F R O N T S T.

Here You’re Closer To The Stars

MAIN DININN ROOM

HAPPY HOUR 5-6PM

ROOFTOP DININN & BAR

MICK’S LOUNNE

WORLD CLASS CUISINE

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A M I C K F L E E T W O O D R E S TA U R A N T & B A R

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Dining » RAISE YOUR GLASS

THE CASE OF THE BLIND WINE TASTING

Charles Fredy is an advanced sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers, and a certified specialist of wine with the Society of Wine Educators. A thirty-seven-year veteran of the wineand-spirits industry, he is director of sales and marketing for Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants Hawai‘i.

STORY BY CHARLES FREDY | PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIEKO HORIKOSHI

WHAT YOU’LL NEED 1. A well-lighted area. Sight is a critical aspect in deducing the wine: Is it bright and clean, murky with particles, clear or opaque? Does it have rings of color that might indicate age? 2. A white tablecloth or other white background (even simple copy paper) that lets the true colors of the wine come through.

3. At least two quality crystal glasses, such as those made by Riedel, Eisch, or Spiegelau, for each participant. (If you don’t have crystal, be sure you have glasses that are clear, without any cut edges, design or writing on them that can distort or diminish the view of the wine.) You’ll be pouring two to three ounces of wine, but each glass should hold at least twelve ounces; you need room to spin and aerate the wine. A typical glass for white or red wine works well, as opposed to a large, bowl-shaped glass that allows the aromas to escape. Smell the glassware before you pour the wine and make sure you can’t detect the cardboard it came in, nor any detergent or chlorine. After each new wine, rinse the glass with water and let it drain well to avoid diluting the wine. 4. Individual spit cups. These can be colored glass, a to-go coffee cup, anything in which the contents aren’t visible. You’ll also need a “dump bucket” to empty both the spit cups and any wine that isn’t drunk. A deep bowl or wine bucket is fine. Except for anyone who will be driving, spitting is optional, but advisable: As you drink, fatigue sets in, diminishing your ability to taste. 5. A means of obscuring the bottles. A bottle’s shape can give clues to the wine inside. For example, a long, narrow bottle often indicates a riesling. So when you pour, ask guests to close their eyes, or cover the bottles, or put them in large bags that disguise the shape.

TOP RIGHT: JOSE MORALES

If you like to entertain, and you enjoy wine, a blind tasting is an engaging way to share these pleasures with friends, without intimidating those who don’t know much about wine. It’s not about evaluating the tasters, but helping them become more perceptive and appreciate the qualities in any wine. A blind tasting is a detective game; you use your senses of sight, smell and taste to search for clues to the wine’s vintage, varietal and place of origin. The difference between the training-wheel blind test, and the professional version, is how detailed you get in describing the wine. In either case, for the clues to lead you to the right suspect, you’ll need an understanding of what the world’s classic wines taste like. If you’re new to this, a beginner’s wine course is a good place to start. Both the Society of Wine Educators and the Court of Master Sommeliers conduct a variety of courses and webinars. You’ll find details at SocietyOfWineEducators.org and MasterSommeliers.org. Next, as in any good detective story, you’ll want to set the scene.

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Dining » RAISE YOUR GLASS PICKING THE WINES Unless your guests are oenophiles, I recommend starting with three whites and three reds. That gives you enough variety to have fun with, but not so much that the participants feel overwhelmed. Consider presenting a selection that’s half Old World wines, half New World, and exploring the differences among them. For example: White chardonnay sauvignon blanc viognier pinot gris/grigio

New World California California/New Zealand California Oregon

Old World Burgundy Bordeaux/ Sancerre Rhone Italy

Red pinot noir cabernet sauvignon syrah/shiraz

New World California/Oregon California California/Australia

Old World Burgundy Bordeaux Northern Rhone

Feeling clueless about Old and New World reds and whites? We offer a few likely suspects: Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio, Alto Adige, Italy, 2014 • Henri Bourgeois Sancerre “Les Baronnes” Sauvignon Blanc, France, 2014 • Flowers Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, California, 2013 • Torbreck Woodcutters Shiraz, Barossa Valley, Australia 2013

POURING Blind tastings are often done in flights. Each guest gets two glasses, and the host pours a different wine into each—two whites, two reds, or one of each. Everyone looks at, smells, tastes and evaluates (or identifies) the wines. Then on to the next flight. If you want to try the true somm flight, pour three whites and three reds, and have your guests assess all six wines in twenty-five minutes.

It’s Sensory, My Dear Watson

Elements for a DIY blind wine tasting: a brightly lit area with white background, clear wine glasses, spit cup, water for rinsing, a dump bucket . . . and bottles wearing a disguise.

We begin our deduction with sight, assessing the intensity of the wine’s color, its viscosity, and whether it’s clear or sedimented. Is there variation in the color? Over time, colors oxidize, and so, like the rings of a tree, layers of color in a wine indicate its age. Whites tend to darken. A young chardonnay that’s moderately golden will deepen as it ages, going from straw to amber to brown. Reds do the opposite; they may start out a ruby color, fade to garnet, then orange. If the wine is one concentrated color, most likely it’s younger wine that hasn’t had time to create those striations of color. New World wines tend to be brighter and clearer than those of the Old World (though there are many variables). Old World red wines are often less clear, because they’re not filtered as much. Once you’ve had a look, swirl or roll the glass on its side so the wine coats the whole interior, then set it upright and let it sit for about ten seconds. As the wine flows back down, watch how quickly the little trails of wine, its “legs,” move down the glass, how thick they are, and how they’re colored. Faster legs mean the wine is less viscous; possibly containing less sugar and alcohol. Slower legs may indicate more viscosity, higher sugar and alcohol content. Knowing the wine’s viscosity helps us deduce the climate its grapes grew in. In a cool, wet climate like the Loire Valley, the grapes will likely be picked when they’re not as ripe; they’ll have less sugar and alcohol, and produce a leaner wine. In warm, sunny California, the grapes will ripen longer on the vine, producing more sugar content and alcohol—and a thicker wine. Of course, like any good detective story, this one has its red herrings. Sometimes

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Dining » RAISE YOUR GLASS Left: One look, and he knew she was a real beauty, a red with legs that took their own sweet time. “Ah, Sugar!” he smiled. Film noir aside, how fast or slowly the “legs” of a wine slide down the side of the glass can help you deduce its sugar and alcohol content, and even where in the world it may have come from. Right: Your sense of smell is nothing to sniff at. When it comes to gathering evidence, the nose is a better detective than the taste buds.

wines are manipulated in the cellar to concentrate the grapes; the higher alcohol content will come from the winemaking, rather than from the climate.

The Nose Knows To sniff out our next clues, we turn to our amazing sense of smell, which is far more perceptive than its partner in crime, our sense of taste. (According to the American Academy of Otolaryngology, we “taste” many flavors, including coffee and chocolate, primarily through smell.) And because the regions of the brain responsible for smell and memory are close to each other, the nose is a sort of memory bank. For me, the smell of black pepper and earth marks a wine from the northern Rhone region, while the scent of chalk or a wet-cement smell conjures Chablis. Your sense of smell is why you can identify many flavors in a wine that your taste buds have never come near. Most people don’t go around licking a barn or a forest floor, but if you know their smells, you can translate them into tastes. Sommeliers use the acronym FEW (fruit, earth, wood) to indicate three important clues to identifying a wine. Red wines generally have a bouquet of black, red or blue fruit; whites have apple, pear, stone, citrus or tropical fruit. Earthy tones include mushroom, minerals, chalk and seashells, and speak of the terroir of specific regions. Butterscotch, cinnamon, clove, chocolate, dill and toast are all wood markers, telling you the wine has lived in a barrel rather than a steel container. (Sawdust and dill are both strong indicators of American oak, often used to produce California zinfandel and cabernet, Australian shiraz, and Spanish reds.) A wine with a strong wood element likely aged in newer barrels, which are very expensive. Some winemakers don’t spend that kind of money, so if you taste a lot of

wood, you can eliminate many wines from your list of suspects, as well as wines that don’t use wood in the aging process.

On the Tip of Your Tongue Just as Sherlock Holmes relied on Watson to help him solve cases, the nose—for all its deductive prowess—needs the tongue to confirm, deny, or add to the evidence through the taste buds’ ability to detect bitter, sour, salty and sweet. Often, if a wine smells fruity, but tastes sour, it leans toward being an Old World wine. If it tastes as fruity as it smells, it’s likely New World. Taste can narrow the list of suspects much further. For example, the strong, bitter, drying sensation that black tea leaves on your palate is the feel of tannin—one of the factors, along with alcohol, sugar and acidity, that create the structure of a wine. The nebbiolo grape of Barolo, in Piedmont, Northern Italy, always has medium-plus to high tannin. If you don’t detect a lot of tannin in the wine you’re tasting, it’s not from Barolo—even if other factors lead you in that direction.

Our Conclusion Conducting a blind tasting with friends can be a whole lot of fun. It also sharpens your ability to sleuth out the character and quality of a wine by forcing you to rely on your senses, rather than preconceptions you may have about a wine’s cost, region or varietal. As your understanding grows, so does your enjoyment of wine and your success in pairing it with food. Case successfully closed. WEB EXCLUSIVE Download a deductive tasting sheet at MauiMagazine.net/Blind-Wine-Tasting

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dining guide B = Breakfast BR = Brunch  L = Lunch  D = Dinner N = Dinner past 9pm  RR = Reservation recommended $ = Average entreé under $15 $$ = Under $25 $$$ = Under $40  $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2015

WEST SIDE ‘Āina Gourmet Market, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2800. Chef James McDonald oversees this deli’s menu, right down to the sun-ripened tomatoes and Maui onions grown upcountry at O’o Farm. Deli. B, L. $ Alaloa Lounge, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. This stylish bar attracts a cocktail generation as lovely as the views. Sushi. D, N. $ Aloha Mixed Plate, 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322. Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $ Amigo’s, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210. Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, chile verde, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Huge portions. Kidfriendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ The Banyan Tree, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 RitzCarlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096. The island of Moloka‘i highlights the dramatic ocean view. Coconut, calamansi and ‘ōpakapaka ceviche; warm ricotta with pretzel bread; and island honey are sublime starters; follow with house-made pasta, grass-fed beef, and locally sourced produce. Macadamia-nut crème brûlée crowns the night. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$ Black Rock Kitchen & Lounge, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808921-4600. Classic steakhouse fare with an island twist. Try the 16-ounce Black Angus rib eye or fresh catch with chef’s signature farm-to-table preparations. Kid-friendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, D. $$$ Cane & Canoe, Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Kapalua Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681. The bright and lively breakfast menu includes poke fruit salad, European-style pastries and top-notch barista service. Later, toast the sunset with Chateau d’Esclans Whispering Angel rosé and succulent grilled octopus with duck chorizo and saffron-coconut veloute. Food service at bar 3–10 p.m. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$ Cheeseburger in Paradise, 811 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4855. This family-friendly restaurant serves up Angus beef burgers, refreshing salads and fun mixology, all with great ocean views, live entertainment and aloha. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D, N. $$ Choice Health Bar, 1087 Limahana Pl., Lahaina, 661-7711. Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are all made with fresh local ingredients. Daily specials, and an epic entrée with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red-pepper sesame sauce. American. B, L. $ Cliff Dive Grill, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031.

How to soak up paradise? Order Hawaiian-style spicy edamame, a juicy burger, or island fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. American, Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$ The Coffee Store Nāpili, 5095 Nāpilihau St., Nāpili, 669-4170. Sip a cup of Kā‘anapali Peaberry or a Taste of Paradise paired with a freshly baked muffin, éclair or coconut macaroon. Coffee Shop. B, L. Cool Cat Café, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908. Burgers, chicken, fish and more, all within a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $ Dollies Pub & Café, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Kahana, 669-0266. Hand-pressed crusts and stone ovens are just two reasons this casual restaurant and sports bar are worth sinking your teeth into. Menu items range from Dollies cheese steak and meatball subs to Mark’s Costa Rican salad. L, D, N. $–$$ Drums of the Pacific Lū‘au, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234 Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Hawaiian. D, RR. $$$$ Duke’s, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900. Imagine Old Hawai‘i at this open-air beach house while dining on crab-and macadamia-nut wontons or prime rib. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$ The Feast at Lele, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353. This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Hawaiian/Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Fleetwood’s on Front St., 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. (Yes, that Fleetwood.) British pub meets American restaurant. Kid-friendly. British/ American. B, L, D, RR. $$$ Frida’s Mexican Beach House, 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287. Chalupas, fresh chili agua ‘ahi, and short-rib tacos served with ocean views and fresh mixology. Latin-inspired. L, D. $–$$ The Gazebo, Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-5621. Mac-nut pancakes, French toast and legendary fried rice served with an ocean view. Kid-friendly. American. B, L. $ Gerard’s, 174 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-8939. Chef Gerard Reversade delights guests with ‘ahi stew made “just like in the Basque country.” Terrific ‘ahi tartare, perfect pastries. French. D. $$$$ Honokōwai Okazuya, 3600-D L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Honokōwai, 665-0512. Plate lunches piled high with two-scoops rice and mac salad fly out the door of this tiny takeout shop. Local Mixed Plate. No credit cards. Closed Sun. L. $

Honu Seafood & Pizza, 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390. Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$ Hula Grill, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636. Dip your toes in sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy kiawe-grilled ono on fresh spinach, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$ Japengo, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4796. Savor delicacies like abalone sashimi, and shave your own wasabi root with a sharkskin grater. Japanese/Sushi. D, N. $$$ Joey’s Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474. Morcon pork (Filipino-Spanish influences) and raisin-studded meatloaf feature in Chef Joey’s loco moco. Try the braised short-rib pho atop house-made rice noodles, corn and sweet Filipino peppers in a rich ginger beef broth. B, L, D. $$ Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. Kā‘anapali, 661-0011. Sunday’s brunch buffet features a huge selection of traditional and Hawaiian dishes, champagne, and Hawaiian music. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. BR. $$$ Kai Sushi, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. Sushi Chef Tadashi Yoshino and his team work magic with spicy tuna, uni (sea urchin) and tai (snapper). Sip unfiltered Japanese saké and enjoy the coastal view. Sushi. D. $$$ Kobe Japanese Steak House & Oku’s Sushi Bar, 136 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 667-5555. Flying shrimp, whirling spatulas and late-night karaoke make this longtime Lahaina icon fun. Kid-friendly. Japanese/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$ Lahaina Fish Co., 831 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3472. Grab an oceanfront seat and dig into fresh mahi and sautéed sea scallops in cream sauce. A wide selection of surf and turf, memorable tropical drinks, and a happy hour that lasts from noon to 6 p.m. L, D. $$–$$$ Lahaina Grill, 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117. This glamorous restaurant is always on point. Sommelier Richard Olson III suggests lively wine pairings for the famed ‘ahi and foie gras. Hawai‘i Regional. D, RR. $$$$ Lahaina Pizza Company, 730 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0700. Deep-dish pizza, hearty salads and sandwiches draw crowds to this relaxed hangout. Live music nightly. American/Italian. L, D. $$ Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495. Awardwinning Chef Ryan Luckey rocks Hawai‘i-inspired flavors. Try the sesame-crusted seared ‘ahi with

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shiitake-mushroom-butter-soy sauce, or Korean gochujang risotto with salt-and-peppa’ mahi. Kidfriendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D, N. $$ Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600. The pies may win hearts, but the fried salad and home-baked breads also warrant repeat visits to this homey Olowalu outpost. American. B, L, D. $ Longhi’s, 888 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2288. For breakfast at this open-air landmark, try the eggs Benedict on thick toasted French bread. For dinner, use the jalapeño cheese bread to sop up sauce served with the Shrimp Longhi. Italian. B, L, D. $$$–$$$$ Māla Ocean Tavern, 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9394. Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the health-conscious and the hedonistic at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (Sat & Sun), L, D. $$ Mama’s Ribs & Rotisserie, 5095 Nāpilihau St., Nāpili, 665-6262. See South Shore listing. Maui Sugar Shop, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 662-0033. Delectable gluten-free, paleo and vegan delights such as quiches, Belgian waffles, muffins, cakes and more at this bakery café. Bakery. B, L. $ Merriman’s Kapalua, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 669-6400. Dramatic views of the golden crescent beach and islands on the horizon accent the largely organic and local menu. Hawai‘i Regional. BR Sundays, L, D, RR. $$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana, 669-9010. Sushi served on-site, takeout or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and house specialty rolls. Japanese. L, D. $$ Ocean Pool Bar & Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Kick back with a tropical cocktail and pūpū (appetizer) beside the pool; the paparazzi should be there shortly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Old Lāhaina Lū‘au, 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-1998. Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Hawaiian. D, RR. $$$$ Pacific’O, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341. Owner Louis Coulombe’s decadent fish tacos and bahn mi sandwiches are memorable lunch fare. For dinner, try the lobster ravioli or coconut-dusted mahi with Thailemongrass-peanut sauce on black mochi rice. Spectacular oceanfront dining. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Penne Pasta, 180 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 6616633. Dig into flavorful, affordable pasta dishes while people-watching from this cozy spot tucked down a Lahaina side street. Kid-friendly. Italian. L, D, N. $$ Pi Artisan Pizzeria, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 6670791. Handcrafted pizzas baked in kiawe-woodburning ovens. Build your own pizza with local produce and ingredients like homemade Italian sausage and fresh tomato sauce. Italian. L, D. $–$$ Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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exPerience POlyneSiA WAILELE POLYNESIAN LŪ‘AU Spectacular revue featuring the songs and dances of Hawai‘i and Polynesia, complemented by a lavish buffet dinner and all-inclusive beverages. TUESdAYS, WEdNESdAYS & ThUrSdAYS Oceanfront at the Aloha Pavilion Reservations Required. For schedule and ticket information, call 808-661-2992 or visit westinmaui.com

Pineapple Grill, 200 Kapalua Dr., Kapalua, 669-9600. Our favorites: pistachio- and wasabipea-crusted ‘ahi steak (rare), served with coconut forbidden rice. Or try the tender, Asian-style braised short ribs. L, D, N. $$$ Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636. Front-and-center views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Pizza Paradiso Mediterranean Grill, 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929. Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a perfect side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$ Plantation House Restaurant, 2000 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua, 669-6299. Rock your inner Cajun with Rising Star Chef Jojo Vasquez’s Kaua‘i shrimp ètouffée, prepared with Adoboloco’s Hamajang hot sauce and scallion-polenta cake with lime crème. Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, L, D. $$$ Prison Street Pizza, 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 6623332. Traditional East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Captivating! Italian/Pizza. L, D. $ Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Island cuisine speaks Italian! Try the pappardelle Bolognese, made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End the evening with a sweet zeppole, tiramisu or budino. Closed Tues–Wed. Italian. D. $$$ Relish Burger Bistro, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. All-natural Kobe beef burgers, fish sandwiches, salads with island greens, and huli huli grilled chicken breast, served poolside in an open-air setting. Kid-friendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Relish Oceanside, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fried rice with tender, Asian-style braised beef, fresh mahi served atop luscious and cheesy risotto, and possibly the best kale salad with chunky macadamia nuts you ever ate. Reservations at OpenTable.com. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$-$$$ Roy’s, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 6696999. Celebrity Chef Roy Yamaguchi rocks vibrant local fish and produce, prepared with Asian attention to detail. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Sale Pepe, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667. Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads are highlights on a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta tossed with fresh kale and Italian sausage—like Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian. D. $$ Sangrita Grill + Cantina, Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 662-6000. South of the Border goes upper crust with achiote-marinated ono grilled Yucatan style; fig-mole short ribs; and seafood Veracruz with shrimp, octopus, and fresh fish simmered in a tomato-Spanish-olive sauce. Mexican. L, D. $–$$ Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286. D.K. Kodama’s wildly popular restaurant draws lines late into the night. Small and action-packed, this classy sushi bar is

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dining guide the place to try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$ The Sea House Restaurant, Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 Lower Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 6691500. Start your day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp while the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammy-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack-key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Shark Pit Food Truck, 78 Ulupono St., Lahaina, 298-7776. Kabayaki meatball sub, steak or spicy shrimp tacos with Korean aioli, USDA Prime beef burgers and fresh catch on a taro brioche bun. Food Truck. L. $ Son’z Steakhouse, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, line-caught mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/Steak. D, N. $$$$ Star Noodle, 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 667-5400. Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$ Sugar Cane Maui, 736 Front St., Lahaina, 214-6662. French master chef Philippe Chin reimagines island cuisine with ‘ahi nachos on sesamespinach salad, Asian BBQ short ribs with purple yams, fresh tuna steak on wasabi mashed potatoes and more. Asian Fusion. L, D. $–$$$ Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111. The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $ Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808-921-4600. For starters, try the “Oyster Dan”—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko atop a bed of spinach. Then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate. Japanese/ Steak. D, RR. $$$ Thai Chef, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814. This small, well-loved restaurant keeps West Side fans coming back for more with its commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $ Trilogy Excursion’s Captain’s Sunset Dinner Sail, Mā‘alaea Harbor, 661-4743. Board a luxury catamaran for Chef Bailey’s four-course dinner. Choose from rosemary-garlic-crusted steak on a bed of roasted garlic cabernet demi-glace, fresh wild-caught mahi mahi with lemon caper butter, or vegetarian pasta. Open bar with cocktails, Maui Brewery and wine selections. American. D. RR. $$$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 790 Front St., Lahaina. Homemade tropical-flavored syrups like liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Additional West Maui locations: 819 Front St., Lahaina; and in the Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. Kid-friendly. $ ‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Head

poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, D. $$$ Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fire dancers ignite the excitement, and hula dancers sway as you enjoy a Polynesian feast. Kid-friendly. Hawaiian/Local. D. RR. $$$$

CENTRAL Amigo’s, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 872-9525. See West Side listing. Aria’s Restaurant & Catering, 2062 W. Vineyard St., Wailuku, 242-2742. Luscious sandwiches, salads and entrèes. American/Pacific Rim. B Sat-Sun only; L, D Mon-Sat. $–$$ Bistro Casanova, 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 873-3650. This “downtown” bistro branches out from its Upcountry sister, adding paella for two, fresh-cut french fries, and burrata caprese to the menu. Mediterranean. L, D. $-$$ Café O’Lei, The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073. Macadamia-nutcrusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites, served in a setting overlooking a links-style golf course and the West Maui Mountains. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Da Kitchen, Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782. Mo’ biggah, mo’ betta! The Hawaiian plate feeds three normal appetites or one sumo-sized eater. Plate lunch favorites like chicken katsu, tempura fish, and Korean mixed plate won’t leave you wanting. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $ Farmacy Health Bar, 12 Market St., Wailuku, 866-4312. Pono means excellence, which perfectly describes this organic eatery’s pono bowl: kale salad atop quinoa and tofu. The taro veggie burgers and the poi açai bowl with fresh fruit are a delicious spin on a local staple. Call in your order to expedite service. Maui-style, Takeout Only. B, L. $ Kula Bistro, 4566 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 8712960. Big fat sandwiches on focaccia, Upcountry salad greens with house balsamic vinaigrette, and buttery scallop appetizers will have you swooning with delight. Fresh-fish entrèes and juicy burgers, too! American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-2877. Eclectic artwork and brightly painted tables decorate this popular gathering spot. At Happy Cappy Hour, 2 p.m. to closing, cappuccinos are special price. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Maui Fresh Streatery, 137 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 344-7929. Chef Kyle rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Menu changes every few weeks. Food Truck. L. $ Las Piñatas, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 877-8707. The home of the famous Kitchen Sink burrito, plus tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas . . . and a self-serve salsa bar. Ole! Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ A Saigon Cafe, 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 2439560. Squeeze into a booth beside local lawmakers Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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dining guide and order Buddha rolls and lemongrass curry. The comedic servers don’t miss a beat. Vietnamese. L, D. $ Sam Sato’s, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2447124. This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L. $ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku. Wailuku Coffee Company, 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259. Espresso, ice cream and sandwiches in a relaxed setting. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Whole Foods Market, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 872-3310. All things fresh and healthy. Order from the deli or construct your own meal from the salad and hot-food bars. Get it to go, or dine here inside or out. B, L, D. $ Zing, Main Street Promenade, 2050 Main St., Wailuku, 244-3707. Salads, soup and sandwiches featuring fresh local ingredients. Closed Sunday. B, L, $

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UPCOUNTRY & NORTH SHORE Café Des Amis, 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-6323. Savory crêpes are served with wild greens and a dollop of sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney and raita, Indian yogurt sauce. Kid-friendly. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $ Café Mambo, 30 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8021. For lunch or dinner, share the steak, tofu, or duck fajitas, served with a lazy Susan piled high with tasty condiments; or grab packed lunches for the long trip to Hāna. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $$ Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli, 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220. Order a tartufo pizza or carbonara pasta at this Upcountry institution, and stay for the night’s entertainment. Visiting musicians make the dance floor one of the island’s hottest. Kid-friendly. Italian. B, L, D. $$ Colleen’s at the Cannery, 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211. Sink into a comfy booth and enjoy a roasted eggplant sandwich on homemade bread. The pizza is a well-loved standard. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D. $-$$. Flatbread Company, 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989. Big booths, charity nights, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies have made this a North Shore institution. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$ Grandma’s Coffee House, 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140. The eggs Benedict and made-from-scratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion. American/Coffeehouse. B, L, Snacks. $$-$$$ Hāli‘imaile General Store, 900 Hāli‘imaile Rd., Hāli‘imaile, 572-2666. Chef Bev Gannon dishes up fresh fish, local meats, and regional produce drenched in complex sauces. The towering sashimi appetizer is legendary, as is Bev’s crab dip. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$

*Offer Expires 12/31/2015 23:59:59 HST

La Provence, 5355 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313. The glass case overflows with perfect croissants, fruit

tarts, and arguably the world’s best mango-blueberry scones. On Sundays, muscle past Kula’s long-distance cyclists to order a Benedict or salmon-pesto crepe. Bakery. B, BR Weekends. $ Makawao Steak House, 3612 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-8711. Charbroiled steaks come with baked beans and focaccia bread. Start with the signature onion soup topped with billowy puff pastry. Steak. D. $$ Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488. Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine. Every detail evokes old-time island hospitality, from the walkway’s Escheresque gecko tiles to the mahi-mahi steamed in traditional lū‘au leaves. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, RR. $$$$ Market Fresh Bistro, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-4877. Chef Justin Pardo brings a passion for sustainable food to this courtyard gem. Try a breakfast frittata or pan-roasted crab cakes with corn succotash. Dinner served Thursday through Saturday. Call for dates on special farm dinners. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Milagro’s, 3 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8755. The corner of Baldwin and Hāna Highway can’t be beat for people-watching. Sample a variety of fine tequilas and dig into ‘ahi tacos topped with a sweet-spicy salsa. Mexican. L, D. $$ Nuka, 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939. Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with the paper-thin fried gobo chips, then move on to ‘ahi tataki with house-special ponzu sauce. Tempura shrimp udon is light and crispy. Save room for black-sesame or green-tea ice cream. Japanese. D. $$–$$$ O’o Farm, 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour. Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and freshly roasted coffee in this bucolic Upcountry setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted vegetables and dessert. American. B, L. $$$$ Pā‘ia Fishmarket, 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030. The huge slabs of fresh fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the long line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $ Polli’s Mexican Restaurant, 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-7808. The sign outside says, “Come in and eat, or we’ll both starve!” Follow that advice to find entrees like kitchen-sink burritos and grilled carne asada plates with refried beans and Spanish rice. L, D. $$

SOUTH SHORE Amigo’s, 41 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 879-9952. See West Side listing. Bistro Molokini, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Keiki as well as their parents will be satisfied at this casual openair eatery. Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh local ingredients. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $$$ Botero Bar, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures that surround it, the Botero Bar of-

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dining guide fers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays—when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. Cocktails. L, D, N. $

p.m. Breakfast is generously served until 2:30 p.m. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$

Café O’Lei, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368. See Central listing.

Four Seasons Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. D, N, RR. $$$$

Caffe Ciao Deli, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Healthy vegetarian fare, deli sandwiches and spectacular desserts abound at this take-out or eat-in deli. Espresso drinks, baked goods and house-made gelato, too. American/Italian. B, L, D. $$ Capische?, Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224. Fresh, handmade pastas include kabocha gnocchi; strozzapretti carbonara comes with house-smoked bacon and Maui farm egg; lamb shanks are served on lemon risotto in a romantic garden setting. Italian. D. $$$$ Chez Mēmē Bistro & Bakery, 115 Kio Loop, Kīhei, 879-5425. Mango-nectar mimosas quench the morning thirst as you dive into tender brioche French toast, or a ham-and-Gruyère baguette sandwich for lunch. French-American. B, L. $ Coconuts Fish Café, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979. Fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers, fish and chips. Frances’s famous cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D. $$ Cow Pig Bun, 535 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 8758100. If a Brandt premium beef burger slathered in foie gras butter, smokey bourbon-bacon jam and blue cheese makes you want to say, “Moo!” this is the place. Try Aaron’s cocktail with allspice liqueur, fresh lime and bourbon. Maui-style Comfort Food. L, D, N. $$ Cuatro, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-1110. Latin and Pacific Rim flavors mingle at this pocket-sized restaurant. Try spicy ‘ahi nachos or a “Maui-terranian” fish—dressed in basil beurre blanc, salsa, and balsamic syrup. Latin/Pacific Rim. D. $$$ Da Kitchen, Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782. See Central listing. Duo, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Duo reinvents the classic “surf and turf.” Japanese Kobe tenderloin (the real thing) and dry-aged rib eye are a carnivore’s delight. Choose a strong wine to match your meat’s performance. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$$$ Fabiani’s Pizzeria & Bakery, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888. Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with locally harvested tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made pork-sausage meatballs. Italian. B, L, D. $$ Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711. What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked 15 hours over fragrant kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy with sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans, and two cabbage slaws: one sweet-tart, the other with blue cheese and apples. American. L, D, N. $–$$ Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. For lunch, enjoy vegetarian quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, D. $$$$ Five Palms, 2960 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2607. Watch the whales cruise by and enjoy lobster-tempura sushi and baked artichokes—half-price from 3 to 6

Gannon’s, 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 8758080. Order drinks at the Red Bar, then enjoy Chef Beverly Gannon’s fine comfort food: maple-vinaigrettesweetened chicken salad, or venison atop Parmesan risotto. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. If fresh island prawns in Thai ginger, tomato broth and tapioca pearls, or brioche- and lemongrass-crusted rack of lamb doesn’t make you want to dance the hula, the tender butter lettuce, Cabot white Cheddar cheese, Asian pears, and candied macadamia nuts tossed in a mustard vinaigrette will. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$ Joy’s Place, 1993 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9258. Brilliant collard-green wraps; sandwiches on thick bread; and awesome, daily made soups are just a few of the reasons to scout out this humble but bright jewel. American/Vegetarian. B, L. $–$$ Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Chef Isaac Bancaco creates seasonal dishes that change weekly, such as lobster bathed in vanilla-cream reduction, watermelon salad with Surfing Goat Dairy feta, and nuggets of foie gras malasadas. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$

Join us daily between 4-6 pm for Happy Hour to receive 50% off all menu items.

Lunch + Happy Hour + Dinner Fairway shops in kA'Anapali sangritagrill.com 8 0 8 .6 6 2 .6000

Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer, and “On the Rock”—three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, D. RR. $$$ Longhi’s Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883. Stop in for a crisp pinot grigio and a Longhi Longhi Longhi salad (that’s its real name)— crisp romaine tossed with reggiano cheese, lemon-feta vinaigrette, and anchovies. Italian. B, L, D. $$$ Māla Wailea, Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8759394. The brunch buffet includes the Mala Benny (with prosciutto, lamb sausage, or wild mushrooms), omelets and chilaquiles. Mediterranean. B, D. $$$ Manoli’s Pizza Company, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499. Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppini or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna. American/Italian. L, D, N. $$ The Market by Capische, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 879-2433. Homemade breads and pastas, salads to go, and sandwiches like the Haole Hoagie: pepper-crusted turkey on sourdough with red-dragon cheese and cumin aioli. Full barista service features coffee drinks sweetened with fresh-pressed sugarcane juice, and the cheese is made on Maui. L, D. $$ Matteo’s Osteria, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 8798466. Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade. Or opt for the Tuscan kale-and-hemp salad with lemon-honeymustard dressing. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$

Free Samples! FREE PIECE OF FUDGE with $20 purchase! Use promo code “NOKAOI” for online orders.

LAHAINA SHOP

KIHEI SHOP

815 Front Street 1945 S. Kihei Road

www.HawaiiFudge.com (808) 661-2726

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dining guide Maui Thai Bistro, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8745605. Fragrant with kaffir lime leaves, the tom yum shrimp-fried rice just might become your favorite. Or try the green-mango salad with crispy fish, then finish with house-made black sesame ice cream. Curries are made to order with fresh herbs and spices. Thai. L, D. $–$$ Memphis Belle Coffee House, 1794 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4091. Serious coffee and fresh-baked goodies to rev you up, morning or afternoon. Healthy papaya yogurt cups, bacon-brioche donuts, and the Black Market Cronut: croissant dough with dark chocolate glaze. Coffee House, Bakery. B, L. $ MiGRANT, Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9394. Chef Sheldon Simeon says, “Come my house. Eat!” At his “house,” MiGRANT, the Top Chef finalist prepares tender and flavorful hanger steak, pan-roasted ‘ahi belly, and spicy “AY KUDESH!” noodles. Half-off happy hour menu 4–6 p.m. Filipino/Asian. D. $$$$ Monkeypod Kitchen, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322. Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and banana-cream pie. Hawai‘i-Regional/American. L, D, N. $$ Morimoto Maui, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Iron Chef’s Masaharu Morimoto combines signature and Maui-centric dishes such as rib-eye beef burgers lobster roll sandwiches. Dinner catches fire with prix fixe omakase. Handcrafted mixology and a dazzling selection of sakés. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $$$$

Nalu’s South Shore Grill, Azeka Shopping Center (mauka), 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650. Generous portions served with aloha. ‘Ahi club with smoked bacon, and fresh fish and (hand-cut) chips will have you coming back for more! Burgers? Yes! American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$

course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, D. RR. $–$$$ South Shore Tiki Lounge, Kīhei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-6444. Gourmet pizza, burgers, salads, and several vegetarian items round out this hip bar’s menu. American. L, D, N. $

Nick’s Fishmarket, Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-7224. Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. D, RR. $$$$

Spago, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Chef Cameron Lewark’s ‘ōpakapaka sashimi and perfectly seared Kobe beef match the trendsetting wine list note for note. Spectacular sunsets may as well be on the menu. Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$

Outback Steakhouse, 281 Pi‘ikea Ave., Kīhei, 879-8400. Personable servers, steaks and shrimp hot off the “barbie” and a menu just for “joeys” (kids) make eating an adventure at this Aussie-themed chain restaurant. Kid-friendly. Steak. L, D, N. $$

Thailand Cuisine, 1819 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8750839. Gracious waitstaff welcome you with a steaming pot of vanilla tea. Sticky rice served in a woven Thai basket complements the flavorful red duck, lobster, or tofu curries. Thai. L, D. $–$$

Pā‘ia Fish Market, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8748888. Same great menu as the original restaurant in Pā‘ia. See Upcountry listing.

Three’s Bar & Grill, 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8793133. Eggs Benedict served six ways, including seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib. For lunch, try the Peruvian pork tacos, Three’s signature ramen, and greendragon sushi roll; for dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak. Pacific Rim/Southwest. B, L, D. $$–$$$

Roasted Chiles, Azeka Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357. Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Sip on giant margaritas and fresh mixology. Mexican. L, D. $-$$ Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004. See West Side listing. Sarento’s on the Beach, 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555. Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of

Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983. Who guessed a clothing company could deliver mean pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, D, N. $–$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei. See West Side listing. More lisitings: MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

Experience Dining at the Renowned Shores of Kapalua With breathtaking ocean views, traditional Hawaiian architecture and modern island fare, the best of Maui past and present are on display at Cane & Canoe. The signature restaurant at Montage Kapalua Bay – where every meal becomes an unforgettable memory you will cherish long after the evening ends. SERVING BREAKFAST & DINNER DAILY NIGHTLY LIVE ENTERTAINMENT & HAPPY HOUR

A recipe for authenticity in a legendary setting.

On e Bay Dr i v e , L a h a i na

(808) 662-6681 caneandcanoe.com

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Just steps from the water’s edge. Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!

Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com

The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours. 505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com

a restaurant created by a man who loves to eat Serving Hawai‘i Since 1976

Best Award of Excellence Wine Spectator

Best Breakfast in Hawai‘i Zagat Survey

Restaurant of Distinction Honolulu Magazine Hale ‘Aina Award

Best Restaurant Honolulu Advertiser I‘lima Award

Best Italian Restaurant The Maui News “Best of Maui” Award

Best Mediterranean BEST Guidebook

‘Aipono Icon Award, Bob Longhi Maui No Ka ‘Oi Magazine

L A H A I N A / 8 8 8 F r o n t S t r e e t / 8 0 8 . 6 6 7. 2 2 8 8 WAILEA / The Shops at Wailea / 808.89 1.8883 HONOLULU / Ala Moana Center / 808.944.3733

WWW.LONGHIS.COM Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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calendar

WHAT’S HAPPENING WHERE, WHEN AND WITH WHOM

Top left: Shanghai Circus, January 18–19 |Bottom left: Statements on Nature, January 10–March 13 | Middle: Jim Messina, January 22 | Right: Les Trocaderos de Monte Carlo, January 21

JANUARY

Mahermageddon Castle Theater, MACC Bill Maher returns with friends David Spade and Jeff Ross. For more than 20 years, Maher has set the boundaries for funny political talk with TV shows Politically Incorrect and Real Time, the film Religulous, and five best-selling books. Adult content and language. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

FEBRUARY 18

January Native Plant Guided Tours Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Brochures for self-guided walking tours are included with the price of admission; audio wands are available to rent; and docent-led group tours are $10 per person (by appointment only). All tours cover the natural history, conservation and ancient uses of native Hawaiian and Polynesian-introduced plants. Monday– Saturday, 8 a.m.–4 p.m. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org.

THROUGH JANUARY 16

Celebrate What’s Right with the World Viewpoints Gallery Maui painter George Allan and Dewitt Jones, a freelance photographer for National Geographic, display works that encourage the viewer to take time to appreciate every moment. Daily, 10:30–5 p.m. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; Viewpoints GalleryMaui.com

THROUGH JANUARY 29

Unlikely Liberators Nisei Veterans Memorial Center This exhibit highlights the U.S. Army’s 522nd Field Artillery Battalion, part of the 442nd Regimental Combat Team—Japanese-American soldiers (many from Hawai‘i) who fought in World War II. The exhibit documents the 522’s rescue of Dachau concentration camp prisoners. Monday–Saturday, noon–4 p.m. 665 Kahului Beach Rd., Kahului; 244-6862; nvmc.org

FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES Each week, a different Maui town hosts music, artists’ demos, children’s activities and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m. It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike. Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com

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Straight No Chaser Castle Theater, MACC The audience-pleasing a cappella group performs an eclectic array of songs from its fifth album, The New Old Fashioned. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Kurt Muroki & Friends Castle Theater, MACC The Maui-born bassist is a graduate of Juilliard School of Music and the Hawai‘i Youth Symphony. Playing a double bass once owned by the eighteenth-century Italian virtuoso Domenico Dragonetti, he’s joined by Joel Smirnoff (viola), Peter Wiley (cello), Joon Yoon (piano), and Carmit Zori (violin). 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Rough Riders Castle Theater, MACC Award-winning Hawai‘i music icons Henry Kapono, John Cruz, and Brother Noland join forces for a night of classics like “Friends” and “Island Style,” as well as provocative new sounds. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Jan 1, Feb 5 Jan 8, Feb 12 Jan 15, Feb 19 Jan 22, Feb 26 Jan 29

First Friday Wailuku Second Friday Lahaina Third Friday Makawao Fourth Friday Kīhei Fifth Friday Lāna‘i

Annual Juried Exhibition Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center Honolulu arts educator and critic Marcia Morse is juror for this year’s multimedia exhibit of works by local and mainland artists. Monday–Saturday, 10 a.m.–4p.m. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 5726560; HuiNoeau.com

MARCH 13

Statements on Nature: A Survey of Printmaking Today Schaefer International Gallery, MACC Nationally selected printmakers span processes from the 18th to the 21st century as they explore paper-based installation, dimensional expansion, and large-scale printed images. Tuesday–Sunday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Frank Vignola & Vinnie Raniolo McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Vignola has performed with such music legends as Ringo Starr, Madonna, Donald Fagen and Wynton Marsalis; Les Paul named him one of his five most admired guitarists. He and Raniolo are one of the most sought-after guitar duos on the international music scene. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

1617

Moloka‘i Metric 100K Kaunakakai, Moloka‘i The weekend kicks off with the Uphill Challenge from Holomua Junction to Kalaupapa Lookout at 4 p.m. Saturday. The 100K bike ride begins and ends at Hotel Moloka‘i, starting at 7 a.m. Sunday. 808-567-6900

17, 21; FEBRUARY 1415, 29

Fine Art Fair Banyan Tree Park Browse paintings, ceramics, photography, jewelry, carvings and more under the banyan tree next to the Old Lahaina Courthouse. Sponsored by Lahaina Arts Society. 9 a.m.–5 p.m. 648 Wharf St., Lahaina; 661-0111; Lahaina-Arts.com

COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

DAILY

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JANUARY HIGHLIGHTS Hawaii’s oldest and most respected gallery proudly presents.....

Lahaina Exhibitions ....... Carleton • January 1 - 21, 2016 MiChael CleMents • January 22 - February 11, 2016 MaCario PasCual • February 26 - MarCh 17, 2016 Kapalua Guest Artists ....... GeorGe allan, betty hay Freeland, Fred KenKniGht, riCh Kenny & others

610

MaCario PasCual

Hyundai Tournament of Champions The 2016 PGA Tour’s season opener features a winners-only format of 2015 champions vying for a $5,900,000 purse. The tourney airs on NBC’s Golf Channel, but it’s more fun to see in person. Plantation Course, Kapalua Resort; 665-9160; PGATour.com/Hyundai

Buy Back the Beach Old Lahaina Lū‘au Join the Hawaiian Islands Land Trust for its 15th annual fundraiser at Maui’s most award-winning lū‘au. Proceeds protect Hawai‘i’s endangered places. 5–8:30 p.m. 1251 Front St., Lahaina; 244-5263; Hilt.org

Maui Oceanfront Marathon Wailea to Lahaina The course runs along the ocean to Kamehameha Iki Park near Lahaina’s banyan tree. Includes a half marathon, 15K, 10K, and 5K races. MauiOceanfront Marathon.com

Macario Pascual “Cane Seed Worker ” Oil

1819

Shanghai Circus Castle Theater, MACC A perennial family favorite, this thrilling show adds complexity and daring to acrobatic skills centuries old. Monday, 4 & 7:30 p.m.; Tuesday, 4 & 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

TOP: 2012 STAN BADZ/PGA TOUR; HILT/JONATHAN STARR

Les Trocaderos de Monte Carlo Castle Theater, MACC The all-male “Trocks” return with wry parodies of classical ballet. Theirs is an inspiring blend of dance, comic approach, and the astounding fact that men can, indeed, dance en pointe without falling flat on their faces. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Jim Messina Castle Theater, MACC As half of the duo Loggins & Messina, cofounder of country-rock band Poco, and a member of Buffalo Springfield, Messina has left an indelible footprint on popular music. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

2224

Maui Fringe Theater Festival Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui OnStage presents this annual collection of per-

Macario Pascual “Waikapu Valley ” Oil

2016 Maui Plein air invitational • February 13 - 21 (For more information contact village Galleries)

120 dickenson st. • lahaina • 808.661.4402 one ritz-Carlton dr. • Kapalua • 808.669.1800

villagegalleriesmaui.com

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February 12–15 Marvel at the wonders of whales with renowned marine researchers, innovative artists, filmmakers and photographers from across the globe!

January

RITZ-CARLTON, KAPALUA

An Evening with Jeff Bridges, January 23

inspiring presentations Free and open to the public benefit whale watches with the pros Reserve Early! 808.572.5700

All Proceeds Support Whale Research in Hawai‘i For complete schedule of events visit WhaleTrust.org

formance pieces, from high drama to political satire to dance. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-6969; MauiOnStage.com

An Evening with Jeff Bridges Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa The actor who embodied the Dude in The Big Lebowsky, redefined Rooster Cogburn in True Grit, and won an Oscar for his role as a struggling musician in Crazy Heart, Bridges gives an intimate performance on Maui. Guest appearance by Brian Evans. 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali; MauiCelebritySeries.com

2331

Royal Lahaina Challenger Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch Top male professional players (ranked No. 50 and above) vie for a $50,000 purse in singles and doubles tennis. Community events include youth and adult clinics, and social activities. 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali; RoyalLahainaChallenger.com

MARCH 2

Celebration of Hawai‘i Viewpoints Gallery This annual invitational transforms the gallery into a display of art relating to Hawai‘i’s culture and natural environment. The exhibit benefits Hawaiian organizations. Daily, 10:30–5 p.m. Opening reception Jan. 23, 5 p.m. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; ViewpointsGalleryMaui.com

Broadway Diva Pops Castle Theater, MACC Maui Pops Orchestra’s annual Broadway spectacular features soloists Julia Murney and Emily Rozek, with guest conductor Randall Fleischer. Performances include selections from Carmen, My Fair Lady, and Phantom of the Opera. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

2831

Art of Aloha Lahaina Galleries Nine accomplished artists, including Ronaldo Macedo, Steve Turnbull, Dario Campanile and The Twins (Alessio & Marcello Bugagiar) unveil new paintings and sculptures. 828 Front St., Lahaina; 661-6284; LahainaGalleries.com

Run & Walk for the Whales Mā‘alaea Harbor Shops Join Pacific Whale Foundation and choose from the 2.5-mile walk; or 5K, 10K, or half-marathon races. 300 Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea; 856-8362. Register online at MauiWhaleFestival.org.

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January

February UB40 Reunited, January 30

COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

Above and lower right: Broadway Diva Pops, January 24 | Top right: Keali‘i Reichel & Hālau Ke‘alaokamaile, February 13–14

UB40 Reunited A&B Amphitheater, MACC With gold and platinum albums, Grammy nominations, and a string of No. 1 hits, the founders of one of the world’s most recognizable reggae bands reunite for this outdoor concert. 6:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Las Cafeteras McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Las Cafeteras is known for inspiring lyrics and community-focused political messages woven with Afro-Mexican rhythms and poetry. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Whale Trust Golf Tournament King Kamehameha Golf Club, Waikapū A benefit for whale research, the tourney features a scramble competition format, cash prizes, and a new Mercedes on display for a lucky hole-in-one. 8 a.m. 572-5700; WhaleTrust.org

FEBRUARY

Amy O’Neal—Opposing Forces McCoy Studio Theater, MACC World-class B-Boys examine perceptions of race and gender within the environments of battling, commercial dance, contemporary performance, and cyphering.

Created by choreographer Amy O’Neal. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Parade of Whales/World Whale Day The parade starts at 9 a.m. and travels along S. Kīhei Road. Festivities from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. at Kalama Park in Kīhei include live entertainment, children’s carnival, made-on-Maui artisans’ fair and environmental displays. 856-8362; MauiWhaleFestival.org

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Kukahi: Keali‘i Reichel & Hālau Ke‘alaokamaile Castle Theater, MACC One of Hawai‘i’s most popular recording artists and

World-class chefs serving gourmet cuisine inspired by school garden grown ingredients. Live music, ﬁne wines, local brews, and an incredible auction to beneﬁt more than 3,000 students in school garden programs across Maui.

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Saturday, March 12, 2016 5:00 - 8:30 p.m. Hotel Wailea Sunset Lawn 555 Kaukahi St. | Wailea, Maui

Mieko Photography

$115 early bird $135 after Feb. 20 | $1,200 table of 10 Plus local tax and ticket service fee. Guests must be 21 or older to attend.

Mieko Photography

Tickets: GrowSomeGood.org

Peter Liu

Jess Craven

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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LIVE MUSIC AND FOOD TASTINGS THE THIRD WEDNESDAY OF EACH MONTH, 6:30 TO 8PM

presented by

You are invited to shop, sample, and enjoy a special musical performance by local artists. Tasty menu samplings, mini-makeovers, entertainment and more—just for you. Free and open to the public. 4-hour event parking for $1—proceeds beneﬁt Maui Food Bank.

3750 Wailea Alanui Drive . Visit us online for monthly updates . theshopsatwailea.com . 808.891.6770 .

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FEBRUARY HIGHLIGHTS title of NBC’s Last Comic Standing, Shlesinger has received rave reviews for her Netflix special, Freezing Hot. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

February 21

‘Aipono Wine Dinner Kō Restaurant, Fairmont Kea Lani Indulge your passion for food and wine at this mingling of Oregon wines selected by Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, and perfectly paired with Chef Tylun Pang’s Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine. Portion of sales benefits Maui Culinary Academy. Reception at 6 p.m., dinner 6:30 p.m. 4100 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea. Reservations: 875-2210

Chinese New Year Festival Maui Mall Firecrackers, drums, and lion dancers kick off this celebration. Highlights include traditional food, martial arts demonstrations, historical displays, calligraphy, a cooking contest and more. Hosted by the Maui Chinese Cultural Society and Maui Chinese Club. 9 a.m.–2 p.m. 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului; 870-8047; MauiChineseNewYearFestival.org

Winter Pops Castle Theater, MACC U.K.-based violinist Benjamin Baker headlines this annual Maui Pops Orchestra performance. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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My Boy He Play Ball McCoy Studio Theater, MACC O‘ahu’s Kumu Kahua Theatre presents this funny and moving story of fathers, sons, and modern Hawaiian identity. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

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Whale Tales The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua Hosted by Whale Trust Maui, this 10th annual fundraiser is an international gathering of scientists and conservationists who share their insights about Maui’s humpback whales. Presentations, parties and a whale-watching cruise. Whale Tales supports whale research on Maui and across the Pacific. One Ritz Carlton Drive, Kapalua; 572-5700; WhaleTrust.org

Art Affair Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center The Hui’s signature annual event features live music, a gourmet dinner, and auctions benefiting visual-arts programs. 5–8 p.m. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; HuiNoeau.com

Great Whale Count Pacific Whale Foundation leads this citizens’ count

Art of Aloha, February 25–28

of humpback whales visible from Maui’s shores. Training and materials provided. MauiWhaleFestival.com

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Art of Aloha Lahaina Galleries Eight accomplished artists, including Yankel Ginzburg, Aldo Luongo and Hitashi Otsuka, unveil new works. The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea; 874-8583; LahainaGalleries.com

MARCH

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Guys & Dolls Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui OnStage presents this beloved musical tale of gamblers and showgirls. Fridays & Saturdays, 7:30 p.m. Sundays, 3 p.m. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; Box office: 242-6969; MauiOnStage.com Email your event to Calendar@Maui Magazine.net, or submit it online at MauiMagazine.net/Maui-Events. Listings for MNKO’s March–April print edition must be received by January 13. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.

So now what…?

MIDDLE: FLIP NICKLIN/MINDEN PICTURES, NMFS PERMIT #13846; BOTTOM: HERB HARTMAN

Are you positioned for the future?

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Maui Plein Air Painting Invitational Various locations Plein-air painters from Hawai‘i and the mainland spend the week capturing Maui on canvas. Come watch. Plus workshops, paint-offs, and opportunities to view and purchase artwork at a Village Galleries reception February 19, 6 p.m.; and final sale February 21, 9 a.m.–9 p.m. Schedule at MauiPleinAirPainting.org.

Will your portfolio: – generate sufficient retirement income? – defend against inflation or deflation? – benefit from market volatility? If you would like to hear FIM Group’s strategy, schedule a time to sit down and discuss your future. Alice McDermott, CFP®, Senior Planner John Bresnahan, Portfolio Management Barry Hyman, MBA, Hawaii Branch Manager Linda Barcheski, Client Services Ed Dowd, MBA, Portfolio Management

a multiple Nā Hoku Hanohano award-winner, Reichel and his hālau hula (hula troupe) present traditional and contemporary music, chant, and dance. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

For the Love of Maui 5K South Maluaka Beach Park, Wailea This fun run benefits Hospice Maui and Valley Isle Road Runners’ youth program. Starts at 4 p.m. on the beach below Mākena Resort. Register at virr.com.

Iliza Shlesinger Castle Theater, MACC The youngest comedian and only female to hold the

FEE-ONLY WEALTH MANAGEMENT

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444 Hana Highway, Suite D, Kahului, Hawaii 96732 808 871 1006 | Toll-free 888 243 8220 fimg-hawaii@fimg.net | www.fimg.net

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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who’s who ʻ‘AIPONO WINE DINNER | Pūlehu, an Italian Grill | October 14, 2015 | Benefit for UH–Maui Culinary Academy

JOSE MORALES

L to R: Chef Alvin Savella & MCA students|Bud & Diane Silva|Ryan & Corrine Nobriga| Chip & Marcela Bannowsky

L to R: Olga & Oscar Jimenez | Rayo McPhee, Carolina Louie|Helen & Barry Kawakami|Francois Milliet, Brandon Maeda, Diane Haynes Woodburn, Lynn Shue

MAURICE BAJON

LITTLE CHEF, BIG CHEF | Grand Wailea Resort | October 16, 2015 | Benefit for Boys & Girls Clubs of Maui

L to R: Everett Dowling, Mei Lee Wong, Whitney & Mike White|Tia Carrere, Kelly Pearson, Kurt Suzuki|Terry McBarnet, Wally Prestidge|Bev Gannon, Isaac Bancaco, Joe Gannon, Penny Freedman

L to R: Jeffrey Valdez, Melanie Wicker, Sheldon Simeon|Betsy Erdman|Carolyn Schaefer Gray|Joe Hegele|Caroline & Robert Stoner

MIEKO PHOTOGRAPHY

HUI NO‘EAU WAILEA FOOD & WINE CELEBRATION|Hotel Wailea|November 14, 2015|Benefit for Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center

Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at Facebook.com/MauiMagazine.

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MauiMagazine.net

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who’s who THE NOBLE CHEF | Fairmont Kea Lani | October 17, 2015 | Benefit for UH–Maui Culinary Academy

JOSE MORALES & MIEKO PHOTOGRAPHY

L to R: Chris Speere, Lois Reiswig, Shawn Condon, Lee Reiswig|Cordy MacLaughlin, Marilyn Fornwall|Dean Louie presented with $20K check from MNKO's Diane Haynes Woodburn|Leah Jade O’Brien, Tom Lelli

L to R: Sherrie Austin, Kimokeo Kapahulehua|Susan Bendon|Sara Tekula, Crissa Hiranaga|Farsheed Bonakdar, Juli Umetsu, Teresa “Cheech” Shurilla|Rhonda & Aaron Placourakis

Were you at this event? Find your photo online at Facebook.com/MauiCulinaryAcademy.

Order by January 20, to start your subscription with the next issue which includes our special Island Living section! 

With a subscription to Maui No Ka ‘Oi magazine, you can keep up with the stories, events and issues that matter to Maui.

Order online at

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1 year $21 (save 30%*) 2 years $37 (save 38%*) 3 years $53 (save 41%*) *Off newsstand price Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Jan–Feb 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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When we asked Diane Haynes Woodburn to talk about launching Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, we knew how far the magazine has come in twenty years. The first issue was just fifty pages, and the publication came out four times a year. (We went bimonthly in 2006.) But what Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi lacked in size it made up for in enthusiasm. Our first issue introduced readers to a remote and scenic wilderness, tackled the issue of big-box stores vs. mom-n-pops, and featured an interview with Maui resident Willie Nelson.

Lehia Apana Regina Asuncion Sky Barnhart Bruce Benson Marti Bloomquist Lance Bowen Conn Brattain Steve Brinkman Alix Buchter Lisa Castillo Harry Chang Diane Chisholm Josh Circle-Woodburn Lynette Cravens Ron Dahlquist Michael D’Eliseo Leslie Everett Cecilia Fernandez Barbara Geary John Giordani “EVIL” COSTCO? “We took on Costco, which had just opened. An Island Issues story in our very first Rita Goldman issue! We were a little nervous about what our writer might say; a former Maui News reporter, Tom Bill Harby Stevens was no fan of development. But he went to mom-n-pop stores like Morihara and Hanzawa’s, and Michael Haynes found out they liked being able to buy from Costco. That big-box store wasn’t ‘evil,’ after all!” Jason Hilford Kristine Hoffman Jennifer Kekiwi Charles Keller Nina Kuna Kao Kushner Angela Lammers Maren Lau Adelle Lennox Tamara Lester Laura Lewark Shelby Lynch Helen Milne Jason Moore Jose Morales Andre Mueller Tootsie Namuo-Pearson Cindy Nobriga Ari Paralta Stewart Pinsky Heidi Pool Eunice Raiser Iva Rivera Wyatt Sharpley Sara De Palma Smith Daniel Southmayd Becky Speere Kali Speere rst fi my was “This laughs. Diane thing!” embarrassing most “The title of that story was the Jonathan Stacy issue; I was interviewing a really big star, and writing about why people love him. He was Ashley Stepanek rolling a joint as I arrived—at 10 a.m.—and I’m sure I got stoned being in his presence. One of Michael Stein the funniest stories he told me was the time his wife warned him not to go carousing. He did, and when he came home and passed out, she sewed him into the sheets and beat him with REGULAR Trina Teruya-Pinsky a frying pan! But here’s why I love Willie: he performed at a benefit for Ka Lima o Maui, the Blair Thorndike CONTRIBUTORS nonprofit that works with people with developmental handicaps. And he’s been donating his Inger Tully Kathy Collins talents for worthy Maui causes ever since. Cindy Valois Matt Foster Philippe Wong, Alan chefs Celebrity issue. that person “Willie wasn’t our only famous Punahele Welch Charles Fredy Padovani, and George Mavrothalassitis (O‘ahu’s Chef Mavro) appeared in our pages, as Shannon Wianecki Guy Junker did Maui native Jesse Kuhaulua, who became Takamiyama, the first non-Japanese sumo champion in the sport’s 2,000-year history.

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Looking Back

A lot of dedicated folks have been part of MNKO’s staff in the past two decades. Some stayed for years, others for just a little while. We cherish them all.

MauiMagazine.net

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Embark on a culinary journey while taking in spectacular sunset views from this open air, ocean view restaurant and lounge featuring fresh fish and innovative cocktails. Highlighting locally sourced ingredients, including those from the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s abundant organic garden, the menu is prepared with simplicity for the perfect flavor balance.

Tuesday-Saturday: 5:30pm - 9:30pm 808-669-6200

One Ritz-Carlton Drive, Kapalua, HI 96761 www.ritzcarlton.com/banyantree www.facebook.com/RitzCartlonKapalua

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The Shops at Wailea 808-874-4900

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Whalers Village 808-661-6806

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