Maui Nō Ka ʻOi Magazine May-June 2016 by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine

BEST OF EATING & DRINKING MAUI NŌ K A ‘OI MAGAZINE VOL. 20 NO. 3

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features 26 » adventure

HARNESS THE WIND Catch a ride on the salty breeze with Lahaina Yacht Club. By Shannon Wianecki

about our cover

Yeah, we know it’s not fair, but we had to tempt you with this ‘ahi club sandwich piled high with applewood-smoked bacon, avo, caramelized onions and sriracha aioli on crisp sourdough. Go get your own at Nalu’s South Shore Grill—‘Aipono’s 2016 Best New Restaurant. Photo by Nina Kuna

34 » hawaiian soul

CULTIVATING ANCIENT WISDOM By Kyle Ellison

40 » island business

ROMANCING THE OLIVE Could this tiny, ancient fruit become Maui’s next big thing? By Diane Haynes Woodburn

46 » island issue

EMPTY ISLES Has Hawai‘i bought the farm when it comes to food security? By Teya Penniman

52 » at home

HOUSE OF THE RISING SUN High tech meets rural Ha‘ikū. By Paul Wood

« EATING & DRINKING » The Best of Maui Dining MNKO pages 67–114

E&D 4 » dining feature CHEFS GONE WILD By Becky Speere

 12 » dining highlights

WHAT MAKES A WINNER? These four ‘Aipono awardees prove that there’s more than one path to success. By Becky Speere

 18 » raise your glass

VINTAGE PERFORMANCE The Kapalua Wine and Food Festival turns thirty-five. Come celebrate! By Diane Haynes Woodburn

2016 ‘Aipono Awards  22 » CHEF OF THE YEAR By Becky Speere

 26 » OUR READERS PICK

MAUI’S BEST RESTAURANTS . . .

 40 » AND A FEW SPECIAL HONORS . . . 8

Chef Mike Lofaro is as good at spearfishing tako (octopus) as he is at cooking it for the award-winning Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a. And that’s saying a mouthful. Photo by Mieko Horikoshi

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14 » publisher’s note By Diane Woodburn

16 » talk story

Fresh off the coconut wireless By Lehia Apana, Sarah Ruppenthal & Shannon Wianecki

22 » great finds TASTEMAKERS Compiled by Conn Brattain

115 » calendar of events

What’s happening where, when and with whom

A feast to appeal to your artistic taste, as well. See page 16. Photo by Lucida Photography

120 » who’s who Seen making the scene on Maui

122 » looking back

A READER’S DIGEST By Rita Goldman

THIS ISSUE ONLINE

Web-exclusive content at MauiMagazine.net (available beginning in May) DO TRY THIS AT HOME Lemon Macadamia Cake with Sammy’s Beach Bar Macadamia Nut Rum glaze—and Maui olive oil. Recipe at MauiMagazine.net/lemon-mac-nut-cake. THIS JUST IN! Visit our online calendar for the latest on what’s happening around Maui County. MauiMagazine.net/Calendar RED CARPET TREATMENT Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo in our online albums and share with friends. GET SOCIAL

Talent clique: Looking for a photo seminar with seasoned pros and Maui as subject? See our Calendar of Events. Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Maui

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did you win? Congratulations to ‘Aipono voters Haley Van Noord of Kīhei and Pua Stuart of Kula, first- and second-place winners in our ‘Aipono ballot contest. We drew their names at random from the more than 2,000 ballots received, and will send each of them a dining certificate to an ‘Aipono Award-winning restaurant. Don’t see your name? Don’t give up! Enter new contests at MauiMagazine. net/Contests.

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There’s a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is indeed the best.” We hope you think so, too.

What was your most memorable meal?

FIRSET TIM ! EVER

My most memorable meal is one that happened regularly. My mom would make homemade beef stew served with Pillsbury biscuits topped with sugar. The sugared biscuits slathered with butter, combined with the savory stew, was perfection.—Conn Brattain

PUBLISHER Diane Haynes Woodburn SENIOR EDITOR Rita Goldman MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana DINING EDITOR Becky Speere ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER John Giordani STYLE EDITOR Conn Brattain WEBSITE MANAGER

Adelle Lennox

ASSISTANT DESIGNER Shelby Lynch EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Jose Morales

On my sixteenth birthday, my Aunty Elsie took two of my best friends and me to a fine-dining experience at Hilo’s Wailoa Restaurant. I remember the peacockback chairs, waiters in black and white with white napkins draped on their forearms, shiny glasses on the table, and the remarkable food. I felt like a princess.—Becky Speere

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Kyle Ellison, Teya Penniman, Sarah Ruppenthal, Shannon Wianecki, Paul Wood

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CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS My childhood favorite, Mike Adrian, Bryan Berkowitz, Conn okonomi-yaki! My father Brattain, Cesere Brothers, Ben Ferrari, is the weekend okonomiyaki master in our house. Mieko Horikoshi, Sue Hudelson, Nina Kuna, The dinner always finished Llevellyn Lightsey, Lucida Photography, with yakisoba cooked by Angela Nelson my mom, the weekend CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR yakisoba master. I enjoyed Matt Foster not only eating, but seeing them cooking together—a CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION rare occasion and a fond Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. memory.—Mieko Horikoshi ADVERTISING SALES 808-242-8331

Once, in Lahaina, I enjoyed a dinner of fish I’d caught spearfishing, and a salad of tomatoes I’d grown in the garden. It wasn’t much, but there was a sense of accomplishment in eating a meal I’d caught and grown all on my own.—Kyle Ellison

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After a six-day trek through Andre Mueller the Guatemalan jungle, I NEWSSTAND SALES & CIRCULATION had a memorable meal in El Remate. The restaurant Subscription inquiries toll free: 844-808-MAUI or visit Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net was owned by an Italian man who brought us NATIONAL MagNet, fresh-baked bread, olive Disticor Magazine Distribution Services oil and cold beer while we waited for our pizza. It was HAWAI‘I MagNet so delicious—and I was so INROOM Maui Circulation famished—that I popped a blood vessel in my eye from E-MAIL ADDRESS Info@MauiMagazine.net eating so voraciously. I have a witness.—Sue Hudelson MOVING? Send address changes to Haynes Publishing Every time I dine at Morimoto Maui. It’s where I get to have date nights with my husband. —Laura Lewark

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My most memorable dinner was garden sushi at Choice Health Bar in Lahaina. Chef Takashi “Asa” Asakawa makes “‘ahi” by dehydrating tomatoes and other vegan delicacies. The food is incredibly time consuming to prepare, and is incredibly delicious.—Ben Ferrari For our first wedding anniversary, Catherine and I went to Capische? in Wailea and were seated at a table in their garden. It was like we were on a picnic and brought a waiter and a five-star restaurant with us.—Michael Haynes

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, Eating & Drinking, & The Shops at Wailea magazines 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; 808-242-8331. ©2016 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly U.S. subscriptions $21; Canadian subscriptions $29; foreign subscriptions $40. Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi—an environmental leader in the industry whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

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publisher’s note Second Helping In honor of MNKO’s twentieth anniversary, we’ve been looking back at our archives. Seems fitting to share this story from our May–June 2012 issue, when I was recalling plans for my dad’s eighty-seventh birthday. It is about food, after all. My dad has since passed, but I imagine him laughing, his blue eyes twinkling. I hope you enjoy it, too. What should have been a gorgeous summer day had turned into The Day the Sky Broke Open: The heavens dumped enough rain to last the next six months. It was the day before a big lū‘au we had planned for my dad’s birthday—and we were spending it in the yard, preparing for it with friends and family. Needless to say, nothing was going right. An hour before, Kimokeo Kapahuleua had delivered a 150-pound pig that we weren’t quite ready to receive. “How about that lawn bench?” I suggested. The center was scooped out lengthwise to make it more comfortable for rounded bottoms, and in this case, just right for holding a very large pig. “Perfect,” husband Jamie pronounced. Soon the pig was ensconced on its makeshift table. This was my first close-up encounter with a lū‘au pig, and I found it disconcerting. “Is that thing smirking?” I wondered, images from Lord of the Flies dancing menacingly through my mind. As the men began preparing the pig for the imu, I retreated from the sodden affair to the cozy warmth of my kitchen. Sometime later, having won the battle over elements and pig, the men tromped into the house, soaked to the skin, but with their machismo intact. We gathered around the family table for a welcome, hot dinner. “What did you finally do with the pig?” I asked. “It’s fine,” my husband answered. “It’s on the bench by the imu.” “Umm,” I began cautiously, “you aren’t worried about the dogs?” We had four—three of them each weighing nearly as much as the pig. Jamie looked up from his plate, eyes wide. He glanced at friend Kendall Struxness, who returned the look of abject fear. Both bolted for the door. “We can load it in the back of the truck,” my husband hollered, as they raced out into the downpour. Jamie backed the truck as close to the pig as possible. I can only imagine the conversation between the two men as they struggled to pick up the bench, each slipping and sliding in the mud, trying to balance and maintain his grip. Huddled around the kitchen window, we watched as the bench slowly rose, Jamie at the back, Kendall at the front, pig in the middle. Step. Step. Step. In a gingerly unison the Rockettes would have admired, men, bench and teetering mass of pig approached the truck. While Jamie steadied the back end, Kendall hoisted the front over the lowered tailgate. (I could swear that I heard a grunt; I just didn’t know whose.) They had it. Or did they? The pig began inching downward, the carved-out center of the bench a perfect shoot. Like a cartoon character in slow motion, the grinning pig slid further and further down its slippery slide, gaining momentum. As Jamie struggled to restore equilibrium, tomorrow’s dinner became an unstoppable porcine torpedo. With legs splayed as if for embrace, the pig engulfed Jamie, who slipped in the slick grass and fell, pinned helplessly under the pig’s indomitable, er, charms. The roar of the rain barely dampened our earsplitting laughter. “Someone help him,” I managed to plead, wiping tears from my eyes. Jamie survived the ordeal, and the pig came to a just and delicious end. Dad returned to celebrate another birthday—happily, in better weather. And the memories and laughter have remained with us, ever since. I believe the best of Maui is the stories we share, with love and aloha. I feel honored to share them with you.

Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

NINA KUNA

A hui hou,

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talk story

Fresh off the coconut wireless

Lucida Photography

The Artful Meal What do you get when you combine a locally sourced gourmet dinner with a glue stick, a pair of scissors and a piece of plywood? Pure magic. That’s what you’ll find at FEAST Hawaii, a monthly culinary event designed to inspire your inner foodie and artist. “We pair a dining experience with something fun and creative,” says FEAST director Amanda Robson. “Our goal is to support local farmers and get people excited about Maui’s food culture.” Robson has the culinary know-how and creative expertise to pull it off: She attended the California Culinary Academy before choreographing stage and television productions in Los Angeles. When Robson returned home to Maui three years ago, she was on the hunt for a new project, which led her to launch a pop-up children’s bookstore. “I started thinking about pop-up dining events,”

Robson recalls. “I wanted to offer experiences, not goods—it’s more in harmony with how I’m wired.” Last spring, she crossed paths with Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s 2015 ‘Aipono Chef of the Year, Jeff Scheer. That’s when the idea for FEAST began to take shape. “He’s a courageous creative,” Robson says. “We decided to collaborate.” The first FEAST was held in May 2015 at Scheer’s Mill House Restaurant at the Maui Tropical Plantation. Since then, the prix fixe dinners have traveled to various venues, with different chefs and menus along the way. “We work with visionary chefs who have a serious farm-to-table mission,” Robson explains. “I also want to know what inspires them; I want them to share their food story.” Before dinner, guests enjoy a hands-on art experience, ranging from a tango lesson to a haku lei-making workshop, to crafting

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The January 2016 FEAST at Lumeria Maui encouraged guests to get in touch with their inner artist by making a dreamboard (3, 6). After exploring their own creativity, they got to enjoy Chef Ben Diamond’s, in a family-style dinner (1) that featured roasted mahimahi (4), a locally sourced garden salad (5) and plenty of camaraderie. FEAST creative director Amanda Robson and celebrity pastry chef Yigit Pura (2) discuss the “dream dessert” inspired by his first trip to Hāna: candied local kumquat filled with a vanilla-bean caviar.

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a dream board (hence the plywood and glue). No two events are alike, and Robson crafts each FEAST from concept to execution: she scouts the venues, meets with the chefs and comes up with the corresponding themes and activities. “Our intention is inspiration,” she says. “We want FEAST to have a lasting effect and ignite a creative spark in each guest. It’s a magical thing.” To learn about upcoming FEASTs, visit FeastHawaii.com. Events sell out quickly, so if one intrigues you, reserve your seat early.—Sarah Ruppenthal Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » May–Jun 2016 Celebrating 20 Years! QKC_MauiNoKaOi_4.64x7.3_March2016_Final.indd 1

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talk story DAY IN THE LIFE

Sit! Stay! Run! NAME: Dustin Metzler TITLE: Owner, Pooch Fit NEW LEASH ON LIFE: In 2012, while training for the Maui Marathon, Dustin Metzler began noticing a high number of dogs locked up in kennels and backyards. “One day I thought, ‘I bet there are a lot of dog owners who don’t have the time or energy to run with their dogs,’” explains Dustin. “That night I was Googling how to start a dog-running business and found an e-book on the topic. It was an excellent $17 investment.” Dustin began running with dogs at the Hawaii Animal Rescue Foundation in Kīhei. “Once they became familiar with me, I would show up and it was absolute doggy pandemonium. That’s what sold me on the idea of dog running as a business.”

Dustin travels across the island to pick up his four-legged clients, often pairing them with dogs at similar energy levels. He runs up to sixty miles each week. “I can’t remember the last time I went for a solo run—these days it’s always with pooch in stride,” he says. RUFF DAY: One day while running near a Wailea golf course with a boxer named Boomer, Dustin forgot to ensure the dog’s collar was snug. Before long, Boomer escaped. “He’d chase the golfers’ balls and knock them away just before it was about to go in the hole. Those guys were absolutely livid with me,” Dustin recalls. “I tried to catch him, but he’d run right past

Photo by Angela Nelson

me and tease me. This went on for an hour before his owner came over and was able to grab Boomer.” MAKING STRIDES: Some people call Dustin to help control their dog’s weight, others to help a hyper hound work off excess energy. “I have a handful of clients who are physically handicapped and they just love their dogs and want to provide an outlet for them,” says Dustin. He adds, “Many owners give their dog love and affection, and take them out now and then, but dogs need to get out and be primal, which is why running is so great for them.”—Lehia Apana Visit PoochFit.com

DOG’S BEST FRIEND: Dustin points out that many dogs are wary of leaving home with a stranger. “They’re often terrified of leaving Mom and Dad,” says Dustin, who offers trial runs to earn the dog’s trust. “Before long the dog knows what I’m there for and is super excited to leave the house.”

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808.877.7893 On Maui’s North Shore 48 Nonohe Place, Spreckelsville | MauiCountryClub.org

Where family and friends come to play Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » May-Jun 2016

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Photo by Cesere Brothers

NORTHWESTERN HAWAIIAN ISLANDS French Frigate Shoals Rapture Reef

Maui

talk story IN SEASON

The One That Got Away? The Hawaiian proverb Aia i ka huki ulua means “gone to haul in ulua.” It refers to the giant trevally, one of Hawai‘i’s most prized gamefish. What it really refers to? A lady reeling in her man. Ulua are no easy catch. The powerful, deep-sea-dwelling predators can weigh over 100 pounds of brutish muscle. And they’re smart. When fishermen attempt to reel in one of these monsters from shore, the hooked fish surges toward the open sea, then doubles back to slice the line against the reef. Ulua inhabit tropical waters from Hawai‘i to South Africa, but nowhere else do they grow as large, or figure as prominently in local culture. Ancient Hawaiians revered ulua; the noble fish could stand in when a human sacrificed was called for. The Hawaiian Islands themselves were said to be the flesh of Pimoe, a giant ulua that broke into eight pieces after being snared by the demigod Māui.

The silver-skinned fish migrate into deep water at night and return closer to shore at dawn. Ten years ago, marine biologist Carl Meyer discovered another of their migratory habits, associated with summer full moons. While tagging ulua in the French Frigate Shoals, Meyer noticed that, during the summer months, fish from across the atoll congregated at a particular site. In the light of the full moon, hundreds of ulua swam en masse to a place dubbed Rapture Reef. Females paired off with males and sank to the sandy bottom to release thousands of eggs and sperm. Similar ulua rendezvous likely exist in the main Hawaiian Islands. Scientists have yet to locate them; the fish remain cryptic. Which brings to mind another proverb, said in admiration of a hero who won’t yield without a struggle: ‘A‘ohe ia e loa‘a aku, he ulua kāpapa no ka moana. “He cannot be caught; he is an ulua of the deep ocean.”—Shannon Wianecki

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presents the

‘aipono wine dinner series The ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series brings you fine wines paired with superb cuisine at surprisingly reasonable prices. Proceeds benefit UH-Maui Culinary Academy. To sign up for the ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series mailing list, visit MauiMagazine.net or call 808.242.8331.

An exquisite wine showcase created by Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants

DRINK | LEARN | EAT | SUPPORT The next wine dinner will be hosted by: Sale Pepe Pizzeria e Cucina 878 Front St., Lahaina inside the old Lahaina Shopping Center

Saturday, June 11 Reception: 6pm Dinner: 6:30pm Call for reservations: 667-7667 For menu, visit MauiMagazine.net/AiponoDinners $125 per person, plus tax & gratuity $25 from each dinner goes to Maui Culinary Academy.

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The theme for the evening will be:

Indigenous Grapes & Classic Recipes of Southern Italy Apulia lies along the coast of the Adriatic Sea in Southern Italy; the region comprises the picturesque heel of the country’s “boot.” It’s here, at their Masseria Li Veli winery, that the Falvo family produces wines from ancient Apulian grapes such as fiano, verdeca, susumaniello and malvasia nera. Once nearly extinct, these varieties are enjoying a modern revival that we’ll celebrate with Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy as our guide. Who better than Chef Michele Di Bari to create a pairing menu that features classic recipes of the region? A native Italian, Di Bari acquired his passion for food in his mother’s kitchen, and believes that la cucina di casa, home-style cooking, is the only true standard of authentic Italian cuisine. Chef Michele honed this vision over twenty years as an NYC restaurateur and chef, most recently collaborating with his wife and partner, Qiana Di Bari, to spread the family philosophy: Mangiare insieme! “Let’s eat together!”

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 GREAT FINDS 

Tastemakers Tempt your taste buds (and your pup’s) with these epicurean delights. COMPILED BY CONN BRATTAIN

INSIDE SCOOP A cross between sherbet and ice cream, Tasaka Guri Guri is a Maui institution. This century-old treat comes in two flavors: pineapple and strawberry. Two (shown) to five scoops, $1.30–$3.10; $6/quart at Tasaka Guri Guri in Maui Mall, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 871-4513

PASTA PERFECT Fresh-made pastas like this spinach fettuccine ($5/9oz. package) are delizioso with Maui Pasta’s macadamia-nut pesto sauce, $7/8oz. container. Fresh ravioli, baked goods, tiramisu, panna cotta, cannoli and classic cheesecakes are worth the trek to Waikapū, or check the website for stores carrying their products. Maui Pasta Company, 1476 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 633-3355, MauiPasta.com

DOGGIE BAG Snoops K9 Gourmet’s venison jerky, liver barks and other all-natural treats are handmade, using human-grade, USDA-approved ingredients. These dried fish-skin chews are made from fresh-caught mahimahi. $14/2.5oz. bag at The Pet Shop, 230 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-3040; and SnoopsGourmet.com

WORTH EVERY BUCK Moloka‘i’s Barking Deer Farm handcrafts its coffee-based Sweet & Spicy rub in small, delectable batches. $11/3oz. jar at Maui Tropical Plantation Country Store, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333; and BarkingDeerFarm.com

SHOOTING STARS Grown in the forests of East Maui by Hana Herbs, pohole (fern shoots) are the start to a delicious salad—just add tomatoes, onion and vinaigrette. $6/8oz. bag at Whole Foods in Maui Mall, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 872-3310; and HanaHerbs.com

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SPREAD THE WORD Jeff’s Jams & Jellies’ Maui Style Butter is a tropical blend of liliko‘i (passionfruit), pineapple, guava, orange, Hawaiian cane sugar and butter. 6.5oz. jars also come in coconut, Kula strawberry, liliko‘i, mango, pineapple, and Upcountry guava. Try on toast, pancakes, waffles or banana bread. $8/6.5 oz. jar at Maui Ocean Treasures in the Maui Ocean Center, 192 Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7000; and JeffsJamsAndJellies.com

SQUARE CUT Maui Fruit Jewels makes award-winning candy jellies from classic tropical fruits—guava, pineapple, banana, liliko‘i, coconut, papaya, mango and more—with intense flavors unlike any you’ve tasted. $1/ea., $38/36pc. box at Kula Marketplace, 15200 Haleakalā Hwy., Kula, 878-2135; and MauiFruitJewels.com

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Announcing... Restaurants Support Vital Programs

The legacy fund created by Chef Paris Nabavi is ensuring a bright, sustainable future for Maui children. Participating restaurants are joining Chef Nabavi in raising funds to benefit seven Maui nonprofits that focus on youth in agriculture, arts, education and wellness.

Provides funds for children to choose and own books through the Scholastic Books program, inspiring a passion for reading and lifelong learning.

Provides handson, outdoor learning experiences that connect students to their food sources and inspire better nutrition choices.

Provides early childhood development services to children and families, giving them a solid foundation from which to grow.

Youth are encouraged to actively express themselves through dance, movement and drama.

Prepares students with the skills and knowledge to succeed in the culinary arts, while instilling the values of thoughtful food preparation.

Supports new businesses in the food and agriculture industries by connecting Maui farmers and entrepreneurs.

Children learn how to grow food in sustainable school gardens. The Nabavi Legacy Fund is managed by the Hawai’i Community Foundation, a 501(c)3, and is supported by the Makana Aloha Foundation. Funds are distributed to beneficiaries annually.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » May–Jun 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Clockwise from top: Nina Kuna; Cadencia Photography; Jack Grace; Cadencia Photography

Dine out, Save $$, & support services for Maui children !

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Dine out, Save $$, & support services for Maui children !

Clockwise from top: Nina Kuna; Cadencia Photography; Jack Grace; Cadencia Photography

Restaurants Support Vital Programs May 27–june 5, from 5 to 8 pm. save 50% on selected entrees & help maui build a brighter future Dine at these participating restaurants: Joey’s Kitchen• Pūlehu, an Italian Grill•Sangrita•Taverna•Three’s Bar and Grill

For a complete list of participating restaurants follow us at MauiRSVP Facebook, Instagram and Twitter 7

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b. u l C t h c a Y a ahain L h t i w e z e e t y br l a s e h t n o e Catch a rid STORY BY SHANNON WIANECKI PHOTOGRAPHY BY BEN FERRARI

With West Maui’s mountain as backdrop, Cosco Carlbom takes a turn captaining Lahaina Yacht Club’s boat, Snickers, during the first regatta of the season.

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Clockwise from top left: Ian Ponting holds onto a pair of “marks,” temporary buoys that will help delineate the racecourse. Behind Dan O’Hanlon, Ponting uses his “geekometer” to measure the wind speed. Amphitrite’s red spinnaker looks much like a frigate bird’s throat pouch, but the yacht’s name belongs to a Greek sea goddess who was married to Poseidon. The boat Noa leaves Lahaina Harbor.

As we leave Lahaina Harbor, the Pacific Ocean is a velvet blue expanse with hardly a white nick of wind. The late morning breeze, though light, is still strong enough to propel a sailboat. That’s good, because today is the first regatta of the Lahaina Yacht Club’s 2016 season, and I’m excited to help monitor the action from aboard the race committee boat. Ian Ponting attempts to measure the wind speed with a tiny wind vane attached to his cellphone. “Eight knots on the geekometer,” he crows, pleased with his gadget’s accuracy. Ponting serves as rear commodore, in charge of the club’s races both big and small. As we motor out into the deep blue, he and fellow club member Dan O’Hanlon heave huge yellow buoys overboard to mark today’s course. Unlike racetracks on land, regatta courses are contingent on wind direction and shift accordingly during a race. Other contingencies Lahaina yachters might encounter? Whales and submarines. Eight trim sailboats approach the start line. Among them are Snickers, the club’s own Olson 30, and Gung Ho, the fastest boat in today’s lineup. The boat captains trade friendly banter, jockey for position, and try not to ram into one another—or worse, lose their wind. Ideally, when the start horn shrieks, they’ll sail between the buoys on a strong tack.

O’Hanlon and Ponting synchronize their watches. I raise the four-minute signal flag. O’Hanlon hollers out a ten-second countdown and then blasts the horn: the race is on! Sails fill and surge forward. O’Hanlon immediately shoots up a flag, alerting a boat that it crossed the line prematurely. Gung Ho must maneuver back to the start, losing precious minutes. Gung Ho’s captain and owner, Keahi Ho, takes the penalty in stride. Competition during these club regattas is just stiff enough to make the races fun. Yachting is a relatively small sport on Maui—which is surprising until you consider the limiting factors. Hawai‘i is a far reach from everywhere; sailing to or from this isolated archipelago is a major commitment. Sailing within Hawai‘i isn’t easy, either. Small-boat harbors are few and far between here, and slips are in high demand. The channels separating the Islands are infamous, known worldwide for their volatile seas and currents. When you leave a Hawaiian harbor, you enter the wilderness of the open ocean. That wilderness is a siren’s call to some, such as beloved restaurateur Floyd Christenson. Back in the 1960s, he and his family sailed around the South Pacific before setting anchor in Maui and opening Mama’s Fish House, one of the most successful restaurants in the state. He and a handful of other sailors founded the Lahaina Yacht Club in 1965. They transformed a

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Father-and-son team Keahi Ho (in black) and Nalu (leaning against the mast) glide by on Gung Ho, the fastest boat in today’s fleet.

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The club’s low-stake regattas give local sailors a chance to hone their skills . . . and just this once, a chance for the writer to raise the fourminute warning flag.

The competition stiffens as boats approach the mark, each one maneuvering for right of way.

dilapidated laundry on Front Street into an oceanfront clubhouse and contracted Hawaiian artist Sam Ka‘ai to design a burgee— the pennant that identifies the club. Ka‘ai drew a white sperm whale on a red backing. “I grew up with that logo on everything,” says Ponting. Like most club members, he honed his appetite for yachting elsewhere before moving to Hawai‘i. He’s originally from the Bay Area, but his family has been entwined with Lahaina Yacht Club for decades. In 1974 his uncle won the club’s showcase regatta, the Vic–Maui. Held every other year since 1968, the international yacht race starts in Victoria, Canada, and ends roughly two weeks later in Kā‘anapali. When a boat arrives at the finish line—no matter what time of day— club members greet it with banners, refreshments, and flower lei. Naturally, when Ponting moved to Maui sixteen years ago, he gravitated to the club. “It was kind of seedy back then,” he admits. Aside from the Vic–Maui, “there was no sailing.” It’s well known that sailing clubs without active boating programs become drinking clubs. For close to twenty years, the “yacht” part of the Lahaina Yacht Club languished while its sailors waited for a slip to open up in Lahaina Harbor. Finally, eight years ago, the harbormaster called. Once the club had a place to park a boat, they bought one: Snickers. Today, Snickers trails behind the other yachts in the race. The current leaders, Noa and Boondoggle, approach the first mark, a buoy they have to clear. Gung Ho suddenly darts between them,

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TO HARNESS THE WIND, TO HITCH A RIDE ON THE PLANET’S VERY BREATH, IS A KIND OF MAGIC. having jibed from far behind. In one sleek maneuver, Gung Ho has stitched up its lost time. All three boats round the mark in perfect sync. Their crews strike the jib sails and hoist silky spinnakers, which inflate like brilliant balloons. Soon the entire fleet is sailing with the wind towards the finish line. The spinnakers cut a colorful swath across the backdrop of the West Maui Mountains. On calm days like this, sailing is a profoundly serene sport. But even on gusty days when the wind roars through the rigging, a sailor’s inner ear registers the absence of an engine’s high-pitched wail—registers and rejoices. To harness the wind, to hitch a ride on the planet’s very breath, is a kind of magic. O’Hanlon and Ponting keep an eye out for humpback whales, and for the Atlantis Submarine, which has surprised a yacht captain or two in the past by surfacing unexpectedly. As Snickers passes by, they assure me that she’s not a slow boat, but is often skippered by captains and crews in training. The chance to sail her is one of the perks of club membership.

The perks are many. Throughout the year, the club hosts numerous regattas and fishing tournaments. Members have exclusive access to the clubhouse that hangs over the water on Front Street. They can flash their membership card to gain entrance at almost any yacht club in the world—including posh addresses in San Francisco or Shanghai. And, perhaps best of all, Lahaina Yacht Club offers junior and adult sailing lessons. “We’re trying to nurture the community,” says Ponting, who helped launch the club’s junior sail program in 2009. “It was the most sought-after summer camp on the island—with no advertising.” The club now hosts Hawai‘i’s largest junior regatta. “Teaching kids how to sail gives them a great sense of self, responsibility, and teamwork.” Teamwork is essential in the final moments of today’s race, to capitalize on the building breeze. As each yacht crosses the finish line, I record its time down to the seconds. We won’t know the official winners until O’Hanlon calculates the scores based on each boat’s handicap. The last boat limps in lazily, its crew already cracking open beers. We motor off to retrieve the buoys and catch several humpbacks frolicking. We dive into the deep blue, to listen to their underwater songs—yet another perk of the sailing life. A few hours later, the clubhouse fills with sailors freshened up and ready to celebrate. Trophies from past regattas glitter behind the bar and colorful burgees from yacht clubs around the world

On light-wind days like today, sailing in Lahaina’s waters is a breeze.

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From top, left to right: Lahaina has welcomed sailors for at least 1,000 years, since the first Polynesian voyaging canoes touched land in Hawai‘i. The Ho family sailed to Tahiti and back, earning Nalu (second from right) a Sportsman of the Year award for improvement as a sailor. Cosco Carlbom and Nancy Goode find fair winds at Lahaina Yacht Club. Burgees from around the world decorate the club’s oceanfront restaurant. On the club’s upper deck, Ian Ponting mans a crane that lowers small boats into the water for lessons.

hang from the rafters. The chef piles snacks onto the crowded tables. I sit down beside Nancy Goode, who crewed today on Boondoggle. She remembers the moment she discovered the power of sailing, forty years ago in Southern California. A boat captain handed her a line and told her when to pull on it. She felt the boat move faster. She was hooked. Goode and her boyfriend planned to sail around the world. When he decided to go without her, two fellows from Alaska found her crying on the dock. We’re sailing to Hawai‘i tomorrow, they said. She joined them. Upon landing in Lahaina, she got a job on a trimaran, leading snorkel tours. She now skippers monthly ladies’ sails, introducing other women to the wonders of travelling by wind. O’Hanlon interrupts the socializing to announce the regatta’s winners: Noa places first, Gung Ho second. Jeff Kaiser, the gracious club commodore, stands to make another announcement. “Twenty years ago, Kea Ho won Sportsman of the Year,” he says. “History repeats itself. I’d like to congratulate his son, Nalu Ho, for winning Sportsman of the Year in 2015.” The deserving eighth-grader recently sailed with his father to Tahiti and back. He grins shyly and accepts his award—clearly a club member in the making. Meanwhile, Goode locks eyes with me and pencils my name in for her next ladies’ sail.

G E T S A LT Y ATTEND A REGATTA Lahaina Yacht Club hosts regattas year-round. You can hitch a ride on a yacht for the day, enter your own boat in the race, volunteer aboard the committee boat, or help welcome the incoming Vic–Maui racers. View the club’s calendar online. LEARN TO SAIL Lahaina Yacht Club offers five-day sailing lessons for adults (co-ed and women only) and juniors (ages nine to fifteen). Novice sailors should know how to swim, have strength enough to hoist a sail, bring gloves, and wear layered clothing and sun protection. Adults: $200 member, $400 nonmember. Juniors: $250 member, $300 nonmember BECOME A CLUB MEMBER Two existing members need to sponsor you. Attend some of the events above and you’re on your way. Visit Lyc.us or call 808-661-0191.

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October 14-30, 2016 • www.HFWF.me

THE BEST TIME TO VISIT MAUI. (Well, besides anytime.)

The center of the culinary world will be in the middle of the Pacific. The 6th Annual Hawai i Food & Wine Festival is coming to Maui, featuring over 100 chefs, top-tier winemakers, mixologists and brewmasters. Our three-day culinary adventure in Ka- anapali includes indulgent golf and dining activities. Oct. 14 Roy’s 19th Annual Golf Classic at Ka- anapali Golf Course Oct. 15 Mixology Seminar at Westin Ka- anapali Ocean Resort Villas Ka- anapali: A Chefs’ Paradise at Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa Oct. 16 Hawaiian Airlines Presents Soaring Palates at Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa Oct. 22 Waikoloa, Hawai i Island Oct. 26-30 Honolulu & Ko Olina, O ahu MAHALO TO OUR SPONSORS

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 HAWAIIAN SOUL 

cultivating ancient wisd Growing, gathering and teaching, these Hawaiians are sustaining a culture. STORY BY KYLE ELLISON

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Hōkūao Pellegrino stands tall in a taro field—one of five lo‘i that have been restored at his family’s Noho‘ana Farm to date. An educator as well as a farmer, Pellegrino has taught hundreds of youngsters how to grow this staple of the Hawaiian diet. Along the way, he’s seen an interest in sustainable agriculture flourish and grow from the mud.

If humanity has a common denominator, it’s the fact that we all need food to survive. Yet food is also central to cultural identity. How food is grown, prepared, and used is arguably as important in defining a culture as lineage, language and lore. That’s a lesson three Maui County residents have worked to impart—keeping traditional knowledge alive to sustain the body while feeding cultural soul.

OPPOSITE & TOP (2): NINA KUNA

FOLLOWING IN THE FOOTSTEPS

They say that even the longest journey begins with a single step. Hōkūao Pellegrino took that step in 2003, when he found wild kalo growing in Waikapū Valley. To Hawaiians, kalo is more than a staple food; it’s a sacred crop, considered the elder sibling of mankind. Hawaiian legend tells of Hāloa, a stillborn child conceived by Ho‘ohokukalani and the Sky Father, Wākea. From Hāloa’s grave a kalo plant grew, nourishing a second child to whom all Hawaiians trace their roots. Growing up here along Waikapū Stream, Pellegrino would often explore the land behind his house, and pass by walls of lo‘i kalo (taro fields) that had been abandoned and forgotten. On one of those trips he found two varieties growing wild up in the valley, and brought them home to see if they’d grow. Fast forward nearly thirteen years. Forty-five different varieties now thrive at Noho‘ana Farm, a two-and-a-half-acre, stream-front property his family has owned since 1848. Kalo was grown here until the 1940s, but when the family moved away for a time, the fields succumbed to weeds. Today Pellegrino is restoring those lo‘i, using the same pōhaku (stones) the walls were built with 400

to 500 hundred years ago. Though his land is in cultivation again, Pellegrino believes his responsibility extends beyond providing the community with poi. It is also e ola ka mahi ‘ai ku‘una—“keeping the culture alive in agriculture.” Each year he hosts more than 1,000 young people, from preschoolers to graduate students. “At the beginning,” he says, “my purpose was to reengage students in agriculture. Now it’s getting them to appreciate the land, whether they become farmers or not.” Farming can be hard work, but Pellegrino believes that establishing a deep sense of culture and connection is the key to keeping the next generation engaged—so that weeding the lo‘i isn’t seen as punishment, but as reward. “We don’t just share the mo‘olelo [stories] of our ancestors regarding Hāloa,” he says. “We take them [into] the lo‘i, work with the kalo, and prepare the food that has sustained us. It’s then that students can really understand the reasoning that Hāloanakalaukapalili, our elder brother, gave up his life to provide us with one of the world’s healthiest crops. “I can think of no other plant as spiritually significant and culturally timeless to Hawaiians. Without Hawaiians there would be no Hawai‘i, and without kalo, there would be no Hawaiians.” Info: Nohoana.Farm@gmail.com Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » May–Jun 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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 HAWAIIAN SOUL 

Ancient Hawa ans were familiar with up to seventy species of limu.

Limu (seaweed) is an important part of the traditional Hawaiian diet. Used to add flavor and variety to meals, it’s also a source of vitamins and minerals. Since noticing native species in decline, Napua Barrows has been replanting the reef, and teaching youth how to identify different types of limu and harvest it sustainably.

When I find Alyson Napua Barrows on the sands of Waihe‘e Beach Park, she’s down on one knee, holding her phone, and photographing the end of a log. As the founder of Waihe‘e Limu Restoration Group, it’s the type of thing Barrows does whenever she finds a species of limu (seaweed) like the one clinging to the seaward edge of this log. Though she grew up gathering limu with her grandparents on O‘ahu, most of Barrows’s knowledge is the result of diligent study in the classroom at the University of Hawai‘i–Mānoa, and out on Maui’s shores. She can tell you that limu kohu is prized for its taste and medicinal qualities; and that limu kala is for ho‘oponopono— cultural gatherings of forgiveness, where the limu is eaten at a conflict’s resolution, as a traditional symbol of release. She knows which type is best for poke (a Hawaiian dish of raw fish), or brewing up in a stew, and the seasons, conditions, and island locations that are best for finding it. Ancient Hawaiians were familiar with up to seventy species of limu. Today only trace amounts of that knowledge remain. It’s something Barrows is out to fix, combining what she finds on the reef with historical texts and accounts to piece together what her ancestors knew. When she moved to Waihe‘e in the 1980s, native species like

manauea flourished along the shore, but by the 1990s she and other limu gatherers began to notice a change. “You just didn’t see as much limu on the reef anymore, and the fish population was decreasing. Invasive seaweeds were starting to crowd out the natives, and freshwater springs that helped them to thrive were starting to all dry up.” Barrows knew she had to do something before the native species disappeared. She took to gathering limu from Kanahā, carefully inspecting it for invasives, and then transplanting it by the reef in Waihe‘e by tying it onto rocks. The process, she admits, is trial and error. “Every section of shoreline has its own specialty of limu,” she explains. You see what works, what doesn’t work, and then try to figure out why. You monitor the currents, the fish, and the shoreline, and it gradually starts to make sense. Through lectures and beach days with student groups, she’s working to pass that knowledge along. Though Barrows is humble about whether her efforts are making a difference, as if on cue a voice chimes up from a snorkeler strolling the shore. “Are you planting today?” asks her friend Christina, who’s been swimming here since 1973. “We used to gather ogo here,” she tells me, “and then it just got wiped out. But since Auntie’s been restoring, we have limu again; it’s really coming back.” Info: Waihe‘e Limu Restoration, 808-264-4135

TOP (2): NINA KUNA; MIDDLE RIGHT: SHELBY LYNCH

REPLANTING THE REEF

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 HAWAIIAN SOUL 

“You know what you do with the young kids?” asks Mervin Dudoit. “You play one game of ‘Pull and Slap.’ You pull out the mangroves and slap ‘em in da bucket. It keeps the kids entertained.” It’s one of the activities “Uncle Merv” uses with school groups and volunteers who come to restore and learn about Moloka‘i’s ancient system of fishponds. Since 2003, he and the nonprofit Ka Honua Momona (“the bountiful Earth”) have been repairing Ali‘i and Kaloko‘eli fishponds. Built by hand, the pond walls arc out from shore, punctuated by a mākāhā, or sluice gate, that allows small fish to enter and feed, but traps them inside once they grow. Whatever tempests happened at sea, fishponds provided Hawaiians with a secure and sustainable food source. It’s a process Dudoit wants the next generation to learn and work to bring back. A lifelong ocean fisherman, Dudoit has had to learn the skills of successfully managing a pond, but if you “look and pay attention,” he says, “the Hawaiians will show you what they did.” For example, when Hawaiians built the fishpond walls over 600 years ago, they stacked the rocks without mortar. Dry stacking leaves spaces between the rocks, allowing water to flow through to aerate the ponds, though over time some rocks have toppled from waves, currents, and tides. Dudoit has volunteers wade into the warm, waist-deep waters, and retrieve the original rocks from the bottom to dry stack the walls once again. He and his volunteers have restored over 500 feet of wall, or kuapā, at Ali‘i fishpond alone. As long as the ponds receive regular maintenance, those walls will stand. The work is back straining, but the sense of connecting with early Hawaiians, and learning traditional methods, has sparked an interest among Moloka‘i’s youth. “When the kids come to help out,” says Dudoit, “we put ‘em in the pond and we make them work hard.” He can tell they’re interested, because “They ask a lot of questions, like ‘Why this?’ and ‘Why that?’” One of those “whys”: Why do they walk barefoot out through the mucky pond bottom? The reason, Dudoit explains, is to dredge the pond as their ancestors did, by breaking up sediment with their feet and allowing the current and outgoing tide to carry it out to sea. Because that sediment is evidence of runoff from shore, it’s also a reminder to care for the land: What happens mauka (inland) affects the life of the ocean. “I tell ‘em do it for the kūpuna,” Dudoit adds, “because important to take care of dem.” Those kūpuna (island elders) love receiving ‘anae (mullet), and Dudoit teaches youth when to harvest, and when to leave fish alone. The season for mullet begins April 1, but Dudoit cautions, “If you throw net and see some still have eggs, then you gotta wait little bit longer.” In front of the office at Ali‘i fishpond, kalo and papayas grow, but it’s the ponds where Mervin has set his hopes. “We do this ‘cuz we want to see the culture come back—teach the right way fo’ do it. Most the fishponds on the island are broken. [If] you bring ‘em back you can feed Hawai‘i, pretty much guaranteed.” Info: 808-553-8353 or KaHonuaMomona.org From top: Volunteers help restore Moloka‘i’s Ali‘i fishpond, dry stacking the rocks as their ancestors did. Mervin Dudoit’s chainsaw isn’t traditional—but neither were the invasive mangroves that were taking over the pond before he starting felling them. The walls of Ali‘i fishpond peek above the water line once again. An older aerial photo from the U.S. Geological Survey shows mangroves encroaching into the pond—and the need for ongoing maintenance.

COURTESY OF KA HONUA MOMONA

RESTACKING THE STONES

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DEMAND BETTER SOLAR™

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THE OLIVE STORY BY DIANE HAYNES WOODBURN PHOTOGRAPHY BY SUE HUDELSON

Could this tiny, ancient fruit become Maui’s next big thing? 40

Sal and Erin Diaz’s Olinda Olive Orchard, planted in 2012

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How to taste olive oil to evaluate its quality: Slurp air and oil into your mouth, then wait for a hint of pepper at the back of your throat, indicating freshness and complexity of flavor. Some olive oils are buttery; others have a delicious, spicy bite. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » May–Jun 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Josh and dad Jamie Woodburn stroll through the Polipoli orchard they planted shortly after forming Maui Olive Company. Left: Young fruit and flowers hang from a branch of a Koroneiki olive tree.

Alan Battersbyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Calasa Gulch olive mill processes Maui Olive Companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very first oil. Right: Ripe Frantoio, Arbequina and Koroneiki olives are ready for milling. A blower will clean the leaves away before the olives enter the mill.

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TOP RIGHT: JAMIE WOODBURN; OPPOSITE BOTTOM (2): DIANE HAYNES WOODBURN

It begins with “starts”—saplings from Santa Cruz Olive Tree Nursery. Each variety can produce a different taste. These are, from left, Cerasuola (Sicily), Picholine (Southern France) and Arbosana (Spain).

“You want to do what?” I asked incredulously. My husband, Jamie Woodburn, had just announced his intention to plant olive orchards. Starting a career as a full-time farmer at an age approaching Medicare was horrifying enough, but choosing a crop that had never been grown on Maui? That was certifiable. “It would be a great agribusiness for Maui,” Jamie continued. “But you don’t even like olives.” I shouldn’t have been surprised. My husband is a man of the dirt. When he retired after thirty years as director of a nonprofit, his green thumb got the better of him. He spent hours every day gardening on our two-acre Kula homesite. Lettuce, beans, squash, beets, chard, kale, tomatoes, potatoes, coffee, corn, berries, citrus, figs, liliko‘i . . . our property could have fed a village. In 2010 we had traveled to Italy. For me it was a dream vacation —we toured walled cities, visited museums and famous wineries. But for Jamie, the days filled with wonder were those spent in the farmlands of Tuscany. “I’d look at the dirt, more aptly described as dried clay and rocks, and be amazed at the strong, twisted trunks of ancient olive trees that stood there steadfast,” he recalled. “Farmers said many of the trees were over 500 years old and still producing huge quantities of fruit.” Olives had intrigued Jamie even before our trip. After Italy, they became his obsession. The only other man I knew who loved to garden (and worked as hard) as Jamie was his good friend Ali‘i Chang, the late founder of Ali‘i Kula Lavender Farm. “Ali‘i and I would swap plants and stories,” Jamie told me. “Sometimes we would talk about how great it would be to incorporate olives with his lavender and create walking tours for visitors to his farm.” Ali‘i, and later our Kula neighbor Alan Battersby, were the first to grow olives here on a large scale, proving that Upcountry Maui had a suitable microclimate. But could Mauigrown olive oil be a viable business? Jamie and his son Josh, a landscape architect, decided to find out. We three headed off to California for some hands-on research in Napa/Sonoma and the Mondavi Olive Center at the University of California at Davis. For ten days, we toured farms and processing centers, and met nearly all the major players in California’s emerging olive industry: growers, tree suppliers, consultants in the field and leaders in the retail side of the industry. The olive community welcomed us with open arms, happy to share their knowledge. The American Olive Oil Producers Association was only established in 2012, but olive oil has been produced in the United States for more than 150 years. Some 300,000 acres of olives have been planted in the U.S. exclusively for oil; of that, 95 percent or more exceeds the standard for extra virgin olive oil. Americans use 80 million gallons of olive oil annually, making it the largest market outside of Europe. Yet only 2 percent of the olive oil consumed in the U.S. is produced here. Room for growth? You bet.

Josh Woodburn samples fresh oil at Mike Madison’s Yolo Farms in California, where he and Jamie interned. The highest-quality olive oil is extra virgin; it can vary in color and flavor, depending on the fruit’s ripeness, variety, and origin. Like a good wine, a good oil will elicit a subtle fruitiness that can taste of olive, apple, sweet grass, nuts or even tomato; plus a balance of bitter, pepper and pungent flavors. Defective oil has a musty or vinegary smell. According to Paul Vossen, on the board of the American Olive Oil Producers Association, many olive oils on U.S. grocery shelves—even those touted as extra virgin—fall into the defective category, some of them rancid before the bottle is opened.

Olive oil is basically olive juice. In the old days, folks used massive stone wheels to crush the olives, then stored the resulting mash or pumice in huge urns until the oil separated out. By then, much of the oil might be rancid, but since it was mostly used for fuel, that didn’t matter. Today, olives are crushed in a mill; then the pumice is gently kneaded and placed in a centrifuge that separates it into solids, water and oil. The oil is stored in giant, conical settling tanks made of stainless steel. Any remaining sediment gets discarded by opening a spout at the bottom of the tank. Everything that is not oil—nearly 80 percent of the olive—is considered waste or byproduct, but that’s in the eye of the beholder. Leaves can be used for teas and medicines, waste oil for soaps and beauty products. The pumice is a healthy additive for animal feed, and can also be composted. The olive, as the ancient Greeks knew, is an endless resource.

FIRST PLANTING Armed with research and a list of resources, Jamie and Josh returned to Maui determined to be olive farmers, and formed Maui Olive Company. They calculated that a single acre could accommodate approximately 225 trees. At maturity (six to ten years), each of those trees could produce two to four tons of olives, which could yield forty to fifty gallons of olive oil. The company’s first planting opportunity came when Don Nelson (yes, the famed basketball coach) asked Jamie and Josh to partner with him on installing an orchard at his Kula property. “‘Vertical’ is my response when people ask me about the learning curve,” says Jamie. “We made every mistake you could think of. Our seedlings were too small, the terrain too steep, the trees planted too closely together, and the soil was Kula loam—what we refer to as ‘moon dust’ for its characteristic of repelling water. Rose beetles Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » May–Jun 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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« ISLAND BUSINESS »

Orchards with a view: At left is Kurt and Beth Thompson’s olive orchard at Launiupoko in West Maui; at right, Maui Olive Company’s newest, Waipoli Orchard in Kula.

GROWING INTEREST The last few years have seen a groundswell of interest in olives. In early 2016, Paul Vossen was invited to Maui to speak about olive farming and the production of olive oil. Vossen is an internationally recognized expert, and a judge at respected olive-oil tasting competitions. The University of Hawai‘i’s Maui campus held the seminar, anticipating about a dozen participants. More than fifty farmers crowded the small classroom. Among them were Sal and Erin Diaz, two of the earliest olive growers on Maui, who launched a commercial-sized orchard on their Olinda property shortly after Maui Olive Company started. The Diazes and Jamie worked together to secure a mill large enough to serve the island’s burgeoning olive community. That mill was sourced in Italy, and purchased last fall—not quite in time for the first harvest.

THE HARVEST Jamie and Sal expected the Maui orchards to follow the pattern of those in California, Spain and Italy, whose harvests usually happen in November. September caught them by surprise: Maui trees were laden with ripe olives. The two men called family and friends to help, and dozens of folks volunteered, excited to be part of the first commercial olive harvest on Maui. The camaraderie energized us, as we learned hands-on what it takes to literally pick a ton of olives. For the best oil, olives must be milled within twenty-four hours of harvesting, but Maui Olive Company’s commercial mill was still wending its way from Italy. Alan Battersby came to the rescue, lending his personal mill to the task. Jamie made sure all the island’s olive farmers knew that a milling would take place the next day. Olives came in from seven different farms. Ali‘i Chang hadn’t lived to produce his own olive oil, but Jamie organized a crew to harvest Chang’s olives, as well. Maui Olive Company sent a sample of that first pressed oil to the Mondavi Center at UC–Davis. Tested against USDA standards of not more than .8 grams of oleic acid (a fatty acid) per 100 grams, it was found to be “of the highest quality.” When Paul Vossen concluded his seminar here with an informal tasting, the last to be tasted was Maui Olive Oil. It was a white-knuckle moment, until we saw the smile. “You need to enter this in competition,” he told Jamie. “This is award-winning oil.”

RIGHT: DIANE HAYNES WOODBURN

and whiteflies threatened to decimate the entire orchard, not to mention deer and pigs that found the trees an attractive meal.” And not to mention hurricanes. Olives trees set fruit right during Hawai‘i’s hurricane season. A big storm could wipe out an entire orchard. Somehow, the trees on Don Nelson’s property beat the odds, and yielded Maui Olive Company’s first harvest. Jamie, Josh and Sam (Jamie’s younger son) soon found themselves installing orchards for other Maui folks interested in olives. Bruce Golino, a founding member of the California Olive Oil Council and the man responsible for helping to establish standards defining extra virgin olive oil, became Maui Olive Company’s advisor. Golino came to Maui on several occasions to help identify planting sites, test soil and recommend the best “low chill” trees for our environment. Olives need a chill factor of fifty degrees or lower for a cumulative 100 hours. “You can grow beautiful olive trees in Hawai‘i at any elevation,” Golino advised, “but to get fruit, the trees need cold.” On Maui, the ideal microclimate lies at an elevation of 2,000 to 4,000 feet, specifically Olinda, Kula and Kēōkea. In 2014, we returned to Italy, and spent countless hours touring orchards and talking with farmers. Jamie studied pruning techniques, milling options, and organic farming styles. Every orchard had a new secret to reveal. And every tree seemed to speak to him. “I can do this,” Jamie told me. “I can grow olives.” Later that year, Jamie leased ten acres of Kula farmland at 3,800-foot elevation and began planting Maui Olive Company’s largest orchard. The site’s terraced grounds allow for neat, wellspaced rows and a flat surface for safe harvesting. “The verdict is still out on how much fruit and which varieties do best at what elevation,” Jamie says, “but we have had really nice success with the varieties we’ve planted here: Koroneiki, Arbequina, Arbosana, Frantoio and Pendolino.” It costs about $10,000 per acre to set up an olive orchard in Hawai‘i, three times what it costs on the mainland. That includes clearing the land, purchasing the slips of California-grown saplings, and setting up a drip irrigation system. Maintenance costs about $3,000 per acre per year, but olive trees are drought-, disease-, and fire-resistant. Because they place little demand on precious resources, they’re an attractive long-term investment. MauiMagazine.net

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A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE OLIVE

1. Kathy Parrish, Sandra Florence, Terry Moore and Makana (yes, that Makana) with Frontoio olives from Polipoli Orchard. 2. Janet and George Allan pick fruit from pruned branches at Ali‘i Kula Lavender Farm—under Buddha’s watchful eye. 3. Randy Wagner Rixey takes a relaxed approach to harvesting. 4. Jamie Woodburn and Erin Frampton Diaz load the mill for processing at Calasa Gulch olive mill. 5. Sal Diaz shows off some of Maui’s first-ever milled olive oil. 6. The author displays her crate of hand-picked olives at Polipoli Orchard.

1, 4, 5: DIANE HAYNES WOODBURN; 2, 3: BECKY SPEERE; 6: JAMIE WOODBURN; TOP RIGHT: SHUTTERSTOCK

RIGHT: DIANE HAYNES WOODBURN

THE FUTURE Maui Olive Company’s newest orchard is located just below Ali‘i Kula Lavender Farm on Waipoli Road. Jamie and his sons, along with Sal and Erin Diaz, look forward to opening a farm stand there. “I like the ag-tourism model and the idea of a retail outlet that allows us and other local growers to sell our oil,” says Josh. “The appeal is in providing something like a winery experience.” Jamie nods. “The complexity of the effort is staggering sometimes, but the reward, we hope, is a sustainable food crop that will produce for generations to come.” As Sal Diaz says, “You grow olives for your grandchildren.”

The olive is perhaps history’s most glorified fruit, a symbol of peace, wisdom, fertility and purity. It appears in the New Testament and the Quran, where it is praised as a precious fruit. The ancient Greeks burned olive oil in the temple lamps and used it to anoint kings. It fueled the “eternal flame” of the original Olympic Games, and garlands made of its branches crowned the victors. In Egypt, leafy branches of the tree were found in the tomb of Tutankhamun. The Greeks believed that Athena, goddess of wisdom, planted the first olive. Trees growing on the stony hillsides of the Acropolis are thought to be its descendants. Whether or not a goddess had a hand in it, the olive has coexisted with man for 5,000 to 6,000 years, and may have been grown commercially as early as 1,000 B.C.E. The tree most likely originated in Persia and Mesopotamia, and later spread to Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Palestine and Israel. Most romantic of all, olive trees can live for hundreds, perhaps thousands of years. Carbon testing has found some trees to be over 1,000 years old. It is little wonder that the olive fascinates us still today, connecting and grounding us to a rich and storied past.

Brined Koroneiki olives sit beside bottles of Maui Olive Company oil that are ready for tasting.

Maui Olive Oil has been entered in two international competitions. Stay tuned for the results. For more information on Maui Olive Company and crowdfunding possibilities, visit MauiOlive.com. For information on Olinda Olive Orchard, email SalErin@gmail.com. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » May–Jun 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Has Hawai’i bought the farm when it comes to food security? STORY BY TEYA PENNIMAN | ILLUSTRATIONS BY MATT FOSTER

Sweet papayas turn gold just outside the window of my north shore home. Kabocha squash hide among dark vines along the drive, while bursts of red chili peppers inflame the bush in the middle of our garden. Flattened stalks of last season’s turmeric and ginger tell tale of pungent roots below. But it’s the breadfruit tree I’m keeping my eye on. Despite a mild climate and year-round growing season, Hawai‘i imports an estimated 90 percent of its food. Our geographic isolation in the middle of the Pacific leaves us vulnerable to shocks in our food distribution system. A natural disaster could destroy harbors or airports, while crop diseases or a distant political event could interrupt shipments, quickly depleting the Islands’ cupboards. No one knows for sure, but urban lore says that if the ships and planes stopped coming, our food supplies might last a few weeks. During peak visitor seasons, fresh lettuce, eggs, and meats would fly off the shelves even more quickly. A few banana bunches or liliko‘i ice cubes couldn’t breach a major gap. Hawai‘i is renowned for its efforts to reduce dependence on imported energy sources, but not so much for food security. Island history shows it doesn’t have to be this way. Before the Europeans arrived, a mauka-to-makai (mountain-to-sea) land-management

system provided enough food for all, with the population estimated at close to today’s numbers. While ancient Hawaiians weren’t immune to droughts or other weather woes, the fertile lands, healthy streams and rich seas generally meant the masses weren’t a fortnight away from a major food fight. The transition to an import-dependent food economy probably started with the Great Māhele—the redistribution of land by King Kamehameha III enacted in 1848—which eventually resulted in non-Hawaiians owning nearly one third of all private land. Private land ownership ushered in the plantation era, which further transformed traditional farming and fishing practices, as mono-crops dominated the landscape. With tourism, the Islands became more connected to the rest of the world; more frequent arrivals of planes and ships increased accessibility to food grown elsewhere, at lower prices. The lure of tropical living fueled subdivisions of agricultural land into two-acre “gentlemen’s estates,” helping to drive up local real-estate values and placing homes and farms out of reach for many residents. Today, export crops account for nearly 80 percent of farmed land, with sugar, seed production, macadamia nuts, commercial forestry and coffee playing lead roles, crops not likely to satisfy a

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In ancient Hawai‘i, land divisions were mauka to makai: each section, or ahupua‘a, included portions of the mountain, valley and sea. People living within an ahupua‘a thus had access to the different plants and animals needed for food and shelter, and the ali‘i (chiefs) and their konohiki (land stewards) ensured that current harvests didn’t compromise the needs of future generations. Today’s import-dependent food system offers far greater variety, but leaves us—and our mo‘opuna (grandchildren)—vulnerable to disruptions beyond our control.

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« ISLAND ISSUES » BY THE NUMBERS

CROPLAND STATISTICS ARE FROM THE STATEWIDE AGRICULTURAL LAND USE BASELINE 2015, PREPARED BY JEFFREY MELROSE, RYAN PERROY AND SYLVANA CARES AT UH–HILO FOR THE HAWAI‘I DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.

Since 1970, the state’s dairy industry dropped from 120 operations to a lonely 2 on the Big Island, and Hawai‘i’s ranches now provide just 6 percent of meat consumed locally, down from 30 percent.

Since 1980, total acres farmed diminished 57 percent. By the end of 2016, the state’s last sugar plantation will shut down; the fate of those 36,000 acres on Maui is unknown.

local food shortage. Previous government-funded efforts to help transition old plantations to diversified agriculture have been minimally successful. Farming in Hawai‘i presents unique challenges, especially to aspiring farmers. What are the key impediments to growing our own, and what are we doing about it? “The cost of land is astronomical,” says Dale Bonar, former executive director of the Hawai‘i Islands Land Trust, who’s become involved in food-sustainability issues. Absent the ability to own land, farmers can only lease, making them reluctant to invest in needed infrastructure. “If you lose the lease, you lose your equity,” he says. Maui County’s 445-acre Kula Agricultural Park supports twenty-six farmers, offering long-term tenure with reasonable rent, but more affordable land is needed, and Bonar is adamant about the importance of having on-site housing. “You need to have eyes on the land,” he says, to protect against theft, vandalism, cropmunching deer and other pests. Bonar’s brainchild? The Affordable Farming Land Trust Maui. He explains that landowners could make tax-deductible donations of land or easements to the trust, which would provide long-term leases to farmers. Investments the farmer makes in the land, such as farm dwellings or irrigation improvements, could be passed on to the kids or sold at affordable levels to new farmers. While the concept has garnered support from a broad range of agricultural leaders on Maui, it has yet to clear legal hurdles at the county level. Existing government policies, such as reduced property taxes and water rates for agricultural use, are designed to support the industry, but farmers aren’t feeling the love. The Maui County Council has been trying to change tax rates to weed out faux farms, but one proposed system could have pushed legitimate operations out of business, says Maui County Agricultural Specialist Kenneth Yamamura. Especially problematic: provisions that required owners to dedicate their land to farming for the next twenty years to avoid paying thousands more in taxes. An older farmer would have to choose between a shorter term of dedication and higher taxes, or selling off. Yamamura says that some properties have dozens of heirs; trying to get seventy people to commit the land to decades of farming would have meant the demise of agriculture for that parcel. After dozens of meetings and hours of impassioned testimony, the bill returned to the drawing table, but left lingering questions about how to prune the system without killing the tree. At the state level, acreage designated by each county as “Important Agricultural Lands” can qualify for valuable tax credits or loan guaranties, thanks to a 1978 initiative designed to preserve large, contiguous blocks of agricultural land. But according to Maui

Ranchers have seen a 31 percent decrease in pasturelands since 1980; some lie fallow or now grow houses.

Planning Director Will Spence, State funding to determine which lands qualify has never materialized. Spence lauds the affordablefarming concept proposed by Bonar, adding that the ability to cluster houses or other infrastructure would create larger contiguous pieces for farming. His department is seeking to expedite farming applications, which currently require navigating three different departments—a daunting process for those who want to add revenue with farm tours or farm-to-table dinners. The announcement in late 2015 that the state’s last sugar plantation was shutting down added a giant question mark to Maui’s landscape. While some envision repurposing both the water and land for more diversified operations (albeit in the absence of a clear nod in that direction from landowner Alexander & Baldwin), others predict economic hits to smaller farms that will no longer

Existing government policies, such as reduced property taxes and water rates for agricultural use, are designed to support the industry, but farmers aren’t feeling the love. be able to piggyback on large-scale purchases and shipments from the mainland. At a minimum, the county will lose some 650 jobs in agriculture. Simon Russell, vice chair for the Hawai‘i Farmers Union United (HFUU) and a member of the Hawai‘i Board of Agriculture, says, “We need to have a well-thought-out, polite conversation” to prevent transforming 36,000 acres of Central Maui into a desert. Meanwhile, the backs aren’t getting any younger: on average, farmers in the state are sixty years old. But there are bright spots. Efforts to grow more farmers, expand local expertise and develop new marketing options seem to be taking root with an abundance of partnerships and programs. The HFUU has a Farm Apprentice Mentoring program that has paired young farmers with experienced elders who share their mana‘o (knowledge) and commitment. The Maui County Farm Bureau’s Agriculture in the Classroom project combines field trips, school visits and career-opportunity days to raise awareness about where the corn, kale and burgers on our plates come from. The bureau also hosts the annual Maui County Agricultural Festival, highlighting agriculture’s role in the Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » May–Jun 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Left: Ag in the Classroom introduces students to the vital role agriculture plays. At Haleakalā Ranch, border collie Buddy intrigues youngsters as he waits for a command from Livestock Operations Manager Greg Friel. Above: The Grow Some Good-inspired garden at Lahaina Intermediate School teaches youngsters like Federick Syrus Manangan how to grow their own—starting with seeds.

HOW PREPARED ARE YOU? 1. Do you have a garden with year-round fruits and vegetables, including leafy greens, citrus, papaya or bananas, avocado, taro or breadfruit—and know how to cook them? 2. If your garden produces more than you consume, do you have a sharing network? 3. If you can’t have a garden, do you own shares in a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) network? (You can share the risks and benefits of supporting a local farmer.) 4. Do you patronize farmers’ markets, verifying that the products offered are locally grown? 5. Do you choose local food first, both in your purchases and by asking vendors and restaurants whether they buy local? 6. Do you educate yourself about political and policy issues important to local producers? 7. Do you support one or more of the organizations mentioned in this story? 8. Have you thanked a farmer or rancher recently? No farmer, no food! How many “yes” answers did you have? 7–8 You and your ‘ohana (family) should be fine. You might want to invest in a locked pantry. 4–6 You probably won’t starve, but you might consider taking up fishing. 1–3 You could be knee-deep in compost if the ships stop coming. Find a community garden or CSA network to increase your food-security score!

LEFT: COURTESY OF MAUI COUNTY FARM BUREAU; RIGHT: CADENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY

community, providing a venue for small-scale growers, and linking farmers and top chefs in cooking demonstrations. Statewide, the new, legislatively created Farm-to-School project advocates buying food locally for public schools to leverage taxpayers’ dollars in support of food self-sufficiency; the program coordinator lives on Maui. The local nonprofit Grow Some Good has been hugely successful: forty-two school gardens across Maui’s three populated islands are getting keiki hands in the soil, lo‘i (taro paddies) and compost, while helping them discover the joys of harvesting their own veggies or capturing honey from beehives. Many of the schools integrate lessons from the gardens into the curriculum. For the backyard gardener and commercial producers alike, the Sustainable Living Institute of Maui at UH–Maui College offers a variety of workshops, from composting, to building a shed, to arborist certification. The college’s new Food Innovation Center provides training in food safety, manufacturing practices and marketing. The center also has a certified commercial test kitchen. On the east end of the island, Hāna Ranch has embraced the challenge of self-sufficiency, pledging to “produce for Maui first,” according to Operations Director Brian McGinness, who says, “Growing calves and selling them to the mainland doesn’t contribute to food security.” The ranch’s “stacked enterprise” approach includes developing new markets for its products; its Pā‘ia restaurant, Hāna Ranch Provisions, features Hāna-grown produce and ‘ono (delicious) beef. McGinnis says they are an experiment in progress; focusing on what grows well here will require fewer inputs like water, fertilizer or pest control. Besides complying with the annual hurricane-season advice to stock up on batteries, canned fish and rice, what can the rest of us do to simultaneously help avoid and prepare for a run on local food supplies? Maybe start with that breadfruit tree. Breadfruit, or ‘ulu in Hawaiian, is a canoe plant—carried with the Polynesians wherever they journeyed across the Pacific. The fruit is packed full of calories and nutrients; a single tree can drop 450 pounds each season, and it grows to a majestic, productive tree in fewer than ten years. You just need to learn how to cook it; to the uninitiated, ‘ulu tastes quite bland. Maui has the most extensive collection of breadfruit species and varieties in the world. The folks at the National Tropical Botanical Garden in Hāna are happy to share their knowledge and recipes with you. As happens in Hawai‘i, sometimes a passerby or neighbor asks to harvest from the bounty of our yard. Over the years we’ve happily shared our fat round ‘ulu. But if those ships stop coming. . . .

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« ISLAND ISSUES » GOT AN APPETITE TO LEARN MORE? • Affordable Farms Maui AffordableFarmsMaui.org • Agricultural Land Use Baseline Study Hdoa.Hawaii.gov/salub • Grow Some Good GrowSomeGood.org • Hāna Ranch HanaRanch.com • Hawai‘i Farmers Union United HfuuHi.org • Maui County Farm Bureau MauiCountyFarmBureau.org • National Tropical Botanical Garden Ntbg.org/gardens/kahanu.php • Sustainable Living Institute of Maui SustainableMaui.org Above: HFUU’s Farm Apprentice Mentoring program is cultivating the next generation by pairing experienced farmers with those just learning the trade. Apprentices David Honu Lafitaga and Ipo (Ku‘uipo) reap the rewards on mentor James Simpliciano’s farm. Right: Grass-fed beef munch their way to Pā‘ia—or at least to the menu at Hāna Ranch Provisions restaurant.

TOP: JAMES SIMPLICIANO; COURTESY OF HĀNA RANCH

Above right: Hāna Ranch Operations Director Brian McGinness. Below: Twenty of the ranch’s 3,600 acres now produce organic fruits and vegetables.

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« AT HOME »

Owner Brad Albert and architect Jeffrey Lundahl created a single-family abode that’s ideal for its windward setting. Smart design and the latest sustainable-energy technology make this home thrive in Ha‘ikū’s sometimes rowdy windward weather while generating almost all of its own power.

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Ha ‘ik ū.

High h tec et s e m ral ru

Story by Paul Wood Photography by Mike Adrian

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » May–Jun 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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« AT HOME »

The long, pitched roof sheds tropical downpours, deflects house-heating solar radiation, and provides the perfect perch for photovoltaic panels. Much of the cladding is corrugated aluminum—it never needs paint, is mostly recycled, and recalls the area’s pineapple-cannery past. Architect Lundahl calls the design “agrarian modernism.” The family’s Leaf car is powered entirely by the roof.

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n the rain-drumming, gust-smacked grasslands of Ha‘ikū—where the teeth of the trade winds break against Haleakalā’s north rift zone—the weather is either a curse or a joy. The difference is totally up to you. People complain about their shoes turning mildew-blue in the closet, or talk wide-eyed about flash floods in the gulches. On the flip side, the skin-temperature breezes that teeter between rain and rainbows inspire sensuous strolls amid vegetation that doubles in size every five days. So you have to work with Ha‘ikū. And Brad and Amy Albert’s new house does that. It’s a place perfect for its place. Yet it’s so sustainable you could almost move it to Mars. I visited just months after the home’s completion. The existing jungle had been reduced to sod lawn with the help of a forestry mulcher. The house still exuded the cool incense of new plaster and little-trod stone. To get to the main living area, we went to the second floor, up airy platform steps with stainless-steel handrails. Midday sunlight flooded the main room through spans of glass on two sides. Whiteness defined the interior. The mood of the white Caesarstone kitchen island, with its pearly hood over solar-powered appliances, swept right through the living area to the moonOpposite page: Clean architectural lines highlight a great room whose windows draw in natural light and scenic rural views. Clockwise from top right: Smaller bedrooms and baths put the emphasis on shared family spaces. A generous pantry (at rear of photo) helps keep the kitchen free of clutter. A stairway leads up to the great room; to its left, a wood panel slides to conceal the home’s utility areas, its wood repurposed from an old barn on the property.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » May–Jun 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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« AT HOME »

Finger-light top and bottom panels slide easily to hide the flat-screen entertainment center. “I wanted to declutter my life,” says owner Brad Albert. “Not minimal, but more relaxing.”

Left: The second-floor lānai extends the main living area into the outdoors. When windward rain assails, the lānai’s leeward location and overhanging roof keep it sheltered. Ceiling fans by Big Ass Fan Company, a match for those inside, keep people cool and bugs away. They’re sold at Read Lighting, and—appropriately—the indoor/outdoor model is called Haiku. Bottom: Son Tosh’s bathroom illustrates another way the home exemplifies sustainability: The sink cabinet was crafted with barnwood taken from an eighty-year-old structure on this rural property.

like, touch-hinged cover that masks the television’s mega screen. Clean simplicity, almost Zen. Architect Jeffrey Lundahl says they chose to keep the place clean and simple and to “rely on the architecture for design rather than decorate the building.” Fresh Ha‘ikū air rose from below, through jalousies to the high ceiling of the main room. In this and other ways, the house functions via “passive design” to limit internal heat gain. For example, Lundahl aligned this slender structure east–west. That way, the sometimes-brutal setting sunrays won’t flood the home. Instead, the long north–south walls tame the trade winds, lifting them from the first floor, and sharing them through ceiling fans powered by photovoltaic gear. These fans turn ceaselessly in the bathrooms, lānai, laundry room, and even the garage. The two wide-open lānai jut from the leeward side of the house—the side that views trees, not neighbors—on both floors. The upper lānai, big enough for ballroom dance practice (if the Alberts were into that), simply extends the main living area out to greenery and sky. A generous visor of overhanging roof reaches past the edge of the lānai, shedding all of Ha‘ikū’s showers. The fans turn, the temperature everywhere is temperate—are we indoors or out? The answer has to be . . . yes.

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« AT HOME »

Because this house looks outward in every direction, with views as far as Moloka‘i and the Haleakalā summit, it feels grander than its footprint. The upstairs living area occupies less than 1,500 square feet. To create breadth in the central room, the Alberts had the personal areas (bedrooms, baths) kept small. The guest room downstairs has a nifty Murphy bed so that the space can serve dual functions. Work and utility areas downstairs are doorless and monastic in scale. Basically, this is a rather narrow, small-family abode created using the sharpest of design logic. And a skate park. “A cul-de-sac is a great place for kids to play. So I created my own,” said Brad, looking proudly at the concrete convolutions,

Above: Why merely pour a circular drive, when you can create a skate park? Parents Amy and Brad say they designed the unusual entry to support son Tosh’s interests, but they both use it, too—especially Brad, a former U.S. Ski Team member. Left: A rack of skateboards serves double duty as funky wall art. Once a week, the Alberts open their personal skate park to Maui Skate School.

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This does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of an offer to buy a unit. Nor is it an offering or solicitation of sale in any jurisdiction where the development is not registered in accordance with applicable law or where such offering or solicitation would otherwise be prohibited by law. Obtain all disclosure documents required by applicable laws and read them before signing anything. No governmental agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of the development. Further, ownership of a unit in the development will be subject to the terms of various documents relating to the development. The resort project described herein (the “Project”) and the residential units located within the Project (the “Residential Units”) are not owned, developed, or sold by Montage Hotels & Resorts, LLC, its affiliates or their respective licensors (collectively, “Montage”) and Montage does not make any representations, warranties or guaranties whatsoever with respect to the Residential Units, the Project or any part thereof. Island Acquisitions Kapalua LLC uses the Montage brand name and certain Montage trademarks (collectively, the “Operator Trademarks”) in connection with the sales and marketing of the Residential Units in the Project under a limited, non-exclusive, non-transferable and non-sublicensable licensefromMontage.Theforegoinglicense may be terminated or may expire without renewal, in which case neither the Residential Units nor any part of the Project will be identified as a Montage branded project or have any rights to use the Operator Trademarks.

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« AT HOME »

The kitchen’s appliances are all Energy Star qualified—approved by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency for being both cost-effective

ramps, and banks of his private skating arena. (The Alberts make it available to the Maui Skate School in Pā‘ia once a week.) He placed it where high-falutin’ folks might have put a porte cochére—right in front of the front door. And he’s still adding to it. A tough little backhoe was biting and moving boulders when I visited. Brad said he’s creating the skate park to support his eight-year-old son Tosh’s interests. In the garage, though, I could see racks of skateboards and surfboards stacked like cookie trays at the Tollhouse factory. The family that skates together. . . . Let’s finish that sentence in twentyfirst-century style: The family that skates together is energy-efficient and sustainable together. All lighting is LED (low heat, low pull on the power supply). Plumbing fixtures are low-flow. Appliances were chosen for minimum power consumption. The very cladding of the structure is recycled: in addition to cedar siding (sustainably forested), the boldest exterior feature is corrugated aluminum. Not only does this exterior reflect “agrarian modernism”—think pineapple cannery, part of Ha‘ikū’s eccentric legacy—it also consists of material (aluminum) that is over 75 percent recycled and can eventually be recycled again. You never paint it, Brad said; Ha‘ikū’s climate is even now creating its patina. So the siding is not just a quaint affectation. It is intrinsic to the primary goal of the house’s design, which is, says architect Lundahl, “environmental sustainability with a modern character.” Photovoltaic panels silently drive the

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shopping barefoot This is no ordinary shopping center. With 90 stores and restaurants, you can shop for beach gear, vacation keepsakes, and enjoy a leisurely meal – all just a few steps from the sand.

and energy-efficient. Streamlined and subtly patterned, Leicht cabinets complement the home’s interior style.

entire home, from the roof to the garage. The south-pitched, shed roof is made from standing-seam galvanized metal. “You can attach solar without penetrating the metal,” said Brad. “You clip to the standing seams.” The roof itself is laid upon a radiant foil barrier that effectively reflects solar heat anywhere that solar energy is not being slurped up by PV panels. The home’s twelve-kilowatt SunPowerWHLR-30629R1_4-64x4-785.indd system is still net-metered—that is, still capable of importing electricity from (and exporting it to) the utility company’s grid. A Juicebox lithium-ion-battery backup system, housed in a large closet on the east side of the house, provides power if the grid goes down. Hot water emanates from another big closet, this one in the garage. A hulking Sun Bandit Solar hybrid water heater powered by six PV panels maintains 120 gallons of water at a temperature of 130 degrees. Because the technology is photovoltaic, rather than a conventional hot-water panel, the system can’t leak or overheat. Also in the garage are a couple of EV charging stations that can bring an electric vehicle to full charge in less than three hours. Nodding at his leased electric BMW, Brad said: “Being able to power your house and your car with your own rooftop solar is a game changer. Imagine never having to go to the gas station again!” This 100 percent solar-powered house with its outdoors attitude grew almost inevitably from two aspects of Brad’s own story, which have to be mentioned here. For one thing, he surfs and he skates.

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Before relocating to Hawai‘i, he was an avid snowboarder, and was on the U.S. Ski Team. For a time he worked as a heli-ski guide outside of Juneau, Alaska. He knows how to move with the rough requirements of the wilderness. And two, Brad is head of Rising Sun Solar Company, which he founded thirteen years ago at a time when “solar” still meant water tanks on the roof. He says that he installed the seventh-ever grid-tied PV system on Maui. Ever since, the winds of change have blown in his direction, with tax credits for home-energy installations, low-cost financing from Sunrun, and ever-dropping prices for PV-plus-storage technology. His company is the first to bring to the Hawai‘i market the Tesla power wall—a battery system with a price tag that’s a third of what lithium-ion batteries used to cost. As the reincarnation of Tesla rises, Brad Albert happens to be right on the front of the wave. In Ha‘ikū, he’s not only skating the trade winds. He’s skating the future.

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The home’s power plant resides discreetly behind closet doors, one of them adjoining an outdoor shower. Top left: A Juicebox lithium-ion battery supplies backup power for lights, refrigerator and other critical loads. Bottom left: A beefy Sun Bandit water heater takes its orders from the rooftop PV without extraneous plumbing or risk of leaking.

Elite Island Construction (general contractor) 549 Kuanana St., Pā‘ia 808-268-0563 EliteIslandConstruction.com Jeffrey A. Lundahl (architect) JeffreyALundahl@msn.com Read Lighting 335 E. Wakea Ave., Kahului 808-871-8995 | ReadLightingHi.com Resource Furniture (Wall beds) 300 Kansas St., San Francisco, CA 415-872-9350 | ResourceFurniture.com Rising Sun Solar 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū 808-575-2202 | RisingSunSolar.com

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SunPower (solar panels) 800-SUNPOWER (786-7693) SunPower.com Top Heavy Concrete (skate park & custom concrete) 530-913-6012 Facebook.com/TopHeavyConcrete Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » May–Jun 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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JAMIE WOODBURN, R(S) | EMAIL: JAMIEWOODBURN1@GMAIL.COM | CELL: 808.870.5671 UPCOUNTRY OFFICE • (808) 572-8600 • WWW.ISLANDSIR.COM | EACH OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED

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OUR GUIDE TO MAUI’S BEST

Eating Drinking Dayboat scallops on crispy potato cake with black truffle yuzu sauce—one of the treats at Grand Wailea’s Humuhumunukunukuāpua’a.

A spritz of elderberry hydrosol and a single red begonia petal finish this Pau Maui Vodka martini.

TABLE OF CONTENTS E&D

E&D

CHEFS GONE WILD Turning foraged foods into haute cuisine by Becky Speere

12 WHAT MAKES A WINNER?

These four ‘Aipono awardees prove there’s more than one path to success. by Becky Speere

NINA KUNA; RIGHT: MIEKO HORIKOSHI

E&D

18 VINTAGE PERFORMANCE

At 35, the Kapalua Wine & Food Festival uncorks a celebration of culinary excellence. by Diane Haynes Woodburn

E&D

22 ‘AIPONO’S 2016 CHEF OF THE YEAR by Becky Speere

26 2015 ‘AIPONO AWARD WINNERS E&D 40 ‘AIPONO’S SPECIAL AWARDS E&D

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Eating & Drinking is published annually by Haynes Publishing Group, Inc., 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; (808) 242-8331. ©2016 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Eating & Drinking

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STORY BY BECKY

SPEERE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIEK O HORIKOSHI

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PHOTO BY MIEKO HORIKOSHI

Dining

Left to right: Hali‘imaile Distillery’s Mark Nigbur, Honu’s Anton Haines, The Mill House’s Jeff Scheer, wild forager Sunny Savage, chef consultant Robert Ramshur, and Tin Roof’s Sheldon Simeon Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Eating & Drinking

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Dining

Clockwise from left: Wading into a jungle of wild greens, Sunny forages for false ‘awa leaves and flowers. Highly nutritious, wild mallow seeds cluster on the stems of this edible plant. False ‘awa’s inflorescence looks a bit like string beans. Polygala paniculata’s roots, steeped in vodka, impart a wintergreen-sarsaparilla flavor; the tops can be steeped for tea.

January 25, Evonuk Farms Spent four hours in the organically managed fields, harvesting one scant gallon of wild mallow seeds growing between rows of coriander. The striated, lime-green seeds conjure images of baby sea urchins, but taste of sweet butter lettuce with a gelatinous mouth feel. Sunny will cook and purée the seeds to create a vegan egg-white substitute. She says, “It’s great for people challenged with gastroesophageal reflux disease. It coats and soothes the entire intestinal tract.” So many foraged foods have dual purposes, as nourishment and healing. February 5, someplace in Huelo Piper auritum (false ‘awa) is an invasive species despised by local gardeners, but it has found a place in our basket today. The white inflorescence doesn’t look like a flower, but like long, skinny tubes dancing at the tops of leggy, ten-foot-tall bushes covered with heart-shaped leaves. Sunny is distilling a potion and must process the plant quickly to capture

its delicate, licorice-like aromas. Cooked and puréed, the young, shiny leaves will deliver a big phytochemical punch. We’re also gathering Polygala paniculata—snakeroot, also known to locals as root beer plant because of its wintergreensarsaparilla scent—which Sunny will distill into a hydrosol. February 15, International House of Pancakes Sunny and I have come to IHOP for a meeting with the chefs who’ll prepare the February 21 Modern Savage dinner. Two of them are former ‘Aipono Chefs of the Year: Sheldon Simeon, of MiGRANT and Top Chef fame; and Jeff Scheer, who runs The Mill House restaurant at Maui Tropical Plantation. Organizing the event are 2013 MNKO “Holiday Test Kitchen” chef Anton Haines of Honu, and Rob Ramshur. Formerly a private chef here, Ramshur now lives in San Francisco, where he works as a chef consultant. He’s flown to Maui for this event, and when I ask him why he felt drawn to planning and executing a wild foods feast, he replies, “To inspire chefs with new ingredients, [and] help spread Sunny’s message of the importance of diversity in our diet. I worked with her last year and it was an experience I wanted to share.” We’re also joined by Leaf & Limb Kombucha, a company that works with organic, fair-trade tea and organic produce from Maui farmers. Sunny has spent 100 hours foraging wild stuff, and it looks like a Chinese apothecary shop as she places her cache on the table in the middle of the restaurant. Like a rabbit-in-the-hat magician, she dips her hand into the ice chest and pulls out Mason jars filled with dehydrated powdered greens made from mallow leaf, wild Turk’s cap, red hibiscus granules, baby pipinola (chayote squash) pickled in feral fennel seeds, pink peppercorns, Job’s tears leaves, distillates of false ‘awa flowers, elderberry, sandalwood, and butterfly ginger hydrosol; honohono (grass), oxalis, and Erechtites valerianifolia, also known as shin san cho or fireweed. Sunny has challenged each of the chefs to compose three

TORI SPEERE: CENTER: BECKY SPEERE

It’s early morning, and I’m trailing Sunny Savage into the Ha‘ikū countryside. Savage is the author of Wild Food Plants of Hawai‘i. As I follow her, immersing myself in the moment, I liken our foraging to childhood excursions with my mother, who shared her Hawai‘i-Japanese knowledge of edible plants like pohole fern, bamboo shoots, watercress and wild fruits. Sunny is a bubbling spring, calling out the botanical names of wild plants and their health benefits. I understand some of what she says, but mostly I feign understanding . . . a lot. We’re harvesting food for a Modern Savage pop-up dinner that will be prepared by some of Maui’s top chefs, for whom Sunny has become a mentor. She has been gathering and processing wild foods for the dinner for months, and invited me to assist her for a few harvests. Her knowledge of wild, edible plants, and their oftentimes off-the-beaten-path locations, turns our foraging into an adventure. Here are my notes from three days at the master’s side.

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Dining

February 19, Huelo Early morning again; dew hangs from the grass blades. One of Sunny’s mantras, she says, is, “Eat at least one wild food every day.” Another: “Eat a rainbow of wild foods [for] the biodiversity of their nutrients.” Wild foods contain more concentrated micronutrients than commercial crops. We harvest juicy honohono grass tips, false ‘awa flowers, seeds and the leaves of sour oxalis and wild elderberry. Then we drive to a secret spot along the road to Hāna for shin san cho. Originally from Asia, this “weed” hopscotched its way to Hawai‘i via immigrant plantation workers. Sunny peels the hard covering on the stem and we eat the crunchy yet tender centers, which taste sweet and celery-like, and have an intense vegetal aroma. February 21, Pop-up night at a private home The twelvecourse feast is about to begin. Dustin Hampton and Ben Zerbe, owners of Leaf & Limb, serve kombucha “Champagne” cocktails, one with wild elderberry, the other with fruit of invasive banana poka, a distant relative of passionfruit. Petals of rose geranium and butterfly ginger decorate sugar-rimmed martini glasses filled with Hali‘imaile Distilling’s Pau Maui Vodka. Hydrosols of wintergreen snakeroot and ginger flowers are placed for guests to spray in their drinks or on their faces for a “wild aromatherapy.” The dinner begins with Chef Rob’s appetizer: Thumbelina carrots “planted” in a black-plastic seedling tray. The whimsical presentation draws laughter from the guests. We dig our fingers into the individual compartments of onion “soil” that mimics rich, dark compost. Carrots emerge, coated in a sticky, mallow-infused compound butter, and we bite into the tender root, our taste buds tickled with the sweet, herbaceous carrot and oniony “dirt.” Each course that follows is incredible. A few of my favorites: Chef Sheldon’s poached egg yolks (from local, free-range chickens) float in a dashi of white miso and brown butter garnished with false ‘awa flowers, toasted haole koa seeds and macadamia granola. Altogether chewy, crunchy and creamy with the slightest hint of licorice, the dish elicits murmurs of delight. Chef Rob presents an onion soup made with fermented buttermilk, and tells us he “caramelized the onions, dehydrated them to make a powder, and incorporated this into the broth for an intensely oniony flavor.” It’s served with kiawe-flour gougéres filled

The author (top, far left) and Sunny Savage meet with chefs and kombucha makers to share foraged wonders: 1. Tender honohono grass tips have a sweet, spinach-like flavor. 2. Finely screened green mallow powder is made from cooked and dehydrated leaves. 3. Baby chayotes marinate in wild fennel, pink peppercorns and vinegar. 4. Often strung into lei, grain seeds of the Job’s tears plant can be ground into flour or cooked and eaten like wheat berries. 5. Sunny points out shin san cho’s ragged leaves and purple-tinged stems. 6. Wild-plant distillates and hydrosols line a shelf at Sunny’s home. 7. Butterfly ginger and elderberry kombucha “Champagne” created by Leaf & Limb. 8. This Pau Maui Vodka martini, shaken with the fruit of invasive banana poka, is a perfect sweet-tart intermezzo.

1, 3, 4, 5: BECKY SPEERE; 2, 6, 7, 8: MIEKO HORIKOSHI

courses for the dinner. As they examine the wild and unfamiliar plants, you can almost hear their imaginative minds formulating recipes. Sheldon has been assigned dishes that “include eggs” and “something crispy.” He pops a few haole koa seeds into his mouth and declares, “I can use these in my egg dish.” Rob reaches for the pickled baby chayotes and wild mallow. Jeff wants to incorporate shin san cho, kiawe flour and false ‘awa purée in his dishes; while Anton envisions mac-nut mallow foam and nasturtium capers in his culinary creation. Soon each chef has claimed his ingredients and gone his separate way, eager to invent something delicious and new.

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Dining

1. Rob’s whimsical carrots in onion “dirt.” 2. Sheldon portions a dish. 3. His egg and miso recipe uses haole koa seed and macnut granola. 4. Sunny infuses the room with pine-needle smoke. 5. Jeff pours cultured cream onto a salad of honohono and feral guava spiked with nasturtium-flower vinegar. 6. Beef short ribs on burdock root, topped with pohole shoots. 7. Kiawe-flour gougéres filled with crème fraiche accent the rich onion soup. 8. Sautéed nabeta fish tastes like lobster; it’s served on a bed of breadfruit dauphine with coconut tartar sauce. 9. Speculoos cookies with chai-spiced wild Java plums and berries.

Purchase Sunny Savage’s Wild Food Plants of Hawai‘i at Sunny Savage.com, Amazon.com, or eBook on iTunes.

8 9

MIEKO HORIKOSHI

with buttermilk-onion crème fraiche. The savory pastry is so tender and utterly divine, I could eat an entire plate of it. Sunny adds, “The kiawe pod is dried and ground into a flour that is high in protein and carbohydrates, which makes it a phenomenal food source and a nutritional gem.” Chef Sheldon reappears, surprising us with a dish that features ‘ulu (breadfruit). “It’s not on the menu,” he grins. “We kinda sneaked it in.” Describing the two preparations: “The first is supa-ripe ‘ulu pudding, and the second is twice-cooked ‘ulu that we boiled in water with chili pepper and garlic, then fried in butter till crispy. We topped it with a kiawe- and guavawood-smoked tako [octopus] speared at Baldwin Beach. We hibachi-grilled it and finished the tako with Maui Olive Company’s first press. On top, there’s ‘inamona [a relish made with kukui nut], ogo [seaweed] and artillery plant.” Sunny adds, “Artillery plant is in the nettle family, along with olonā and māmaki. You’ll detect a wintergreen flavor from the plant.” Chef Jeff emerges from the kitchen to tease our senses with an umami powerhouse of tender beef short ribs braised twelve hours. He serves the collagen-rich cut of beef with nutty burdock root and a purée of ‘ulu and false ‘awa with nasturtium-caper pesto and fresh pohole. Chef Anton has prepared two desserts, one a thin, buttery speculoos cookie spiced with cardamom and wild fennel, and crowned with feral berries and mac-nut foam made with local honey and wild mallow seed. The second: ginger sponge cake infused with butterfly ginger, rose geranium and sandalwood, finished with chocolate cremeaux and a drizzle of hibiscus gel. As we dip in for our final bites, Sunny says, “It has been beyond my dreams to work with these top chefs. And one thing I’d like you to do is remember the names of these wild foods. Keep using this knowledge. Keep sharing it.” Doing so will help ensure that these wild and wonderful foods will be there to nourish us tomorrow.

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SAVOR THE MEAL. DEVOUR THE VIEW. Dining worthy of the paradise that surrounds it. Located in the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea.

For reservations 808-879-2999 or visit wolfgangpuck.com

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What Makes a Winner? Monkeypod Kitchen

2016 restaurant of the year | gold

Eating & Drinking MauiMagazine.net

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Dining

Nalu’s South Shore Grill

best new restaurant | gold

These four ‘Aipono awardees prove that there’s more than one path to success.

STORY BY BECKY SPEERE | PHOTOGRAPHY BY NINA KUNA A restaurant’s success is measured by its longevity. What makes it work? I think it all comes down to consistently well-prepared food, cleanliness, value, and service (and a good bookkeeper). Here are a few that are hitting the mark in all the above.

MONKEYPOD KITCHEN|2016 RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR|GOLD

I’m sitting at the Monkeypod Kitchen’s long bar, enjoying a pau hana beer and appetizers with my husband, Chris, and I can’t help but peek over his shoulder and steal glances of the couple next to us. With heads bowed, they are engrossed in eating kiawe-wood-roasted chicken wings and sipping the restaurant’s heavenly mai tais. Barely a word passes between them as their fingers reach for another plump, smoky wing. Then a sip. Then a dip into tzatziki and a bite of chicken. When the bowl is empty, they look at each other, nod, and flag the bartender for two more mai tais and another bowl of chicken wings. Perhaps Monkeypod Kitchen should open a chicken shack with mai tais? No, they can’t do that, because I’ve enjoyed everything on their menu, from salads to pizzas to pastas. It would surely start a revolution. It’s hard to believe that Monkeypod is celebrating five years at the Wailea Gateway Plaza, selling over 50,000 mai tais in 2015 alone. Jason Vendrell, beverage director and mastermind of the potion, marvels at its popularity. “The year we started selling the Opposite: Topped with caramelized onions, Monkeypod’s ‘ahi sits on jalapeño mashed potatoes with ginger-and-garlic-sautéed bok choy. Top: Nalu’s ‘ahi club boasts flavor punches of applewoodsmoked bacon, avocado, caramelized onions, and sriracha aioli on crisp sourdough; it’s served with a side of cool cucumber tzatziki and house-made potato chips with a touch of truffle oil. Left: Monkeypod’s spicy-hot, wood-fire-roasted chicken wings come with a side of blue cheese sauce; add on one of the restaurant’s fine, cold ales. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Eating & Drinking

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Dining

Clockwise from top left: Monkeypod Kitchen’s mai tai is nothing short of revered; more than 50,000 sold last year alone. Nalu’s “Island Style Ribs with Respect” come with brown rice, kimchee, pickled ginger, Moloka‘i black-lava salt, green onions and sesame seeds; the house-made chili water, placed on every table, is a must try. Nalu’s interior features natural and weathered wood finishes—and check out the extensive menu.

mai tai, we sold 12,000. The next year we sold 23,000 . . . in 2015, we sold over 53,000 mai tais! You should see our storeroom of rum!” And I can only imagine how many cases of chicken. Congratulations to Peter Merriman and the Monkeypod team! 10 Wailea Gateway Place, Wailea • 891-2322 • MonkeypodKitchen. com/Wailea (See our archived feature story on Monkeypod Kitchen at

MauiMagazine.net/eat-drink-be-merriman.)

NALU’S SOUTH SHORE GRILL|BEST NEW RESTAURANT|GOLD

The old IHOP in Kīhei has been transformed into a cool, open-air hangout with fun, funky seating, an unpretentious atmosphere, and a rare koa-wood outrigger canoe hanging overhead. Nalu’s ambiance practically calls out to you: “E komo mai! Welcome!” The sophisticated menu offers fresh and delectable fare at reasonable prices. The coconut wireless has been buzzing as diners share their Nalu food experiences: Hawai‘i grass-fed beef burger on homemade brioche with brie and generous slices of applewood-smoked bacon (everything is better with bacon), Korean-style beef short ribs plate lunch complete with house-

made kim chee, red and golden beet salad with goat cheese on fresh mesclun with a bright and fruity mango vinaigrette, and a killer loco moco that may crash the airwaves, it’s that good! As we locals say, “Garans ballbarans (Hawaiian Creole meaning “guaranteed”), you’ll be back once you try da food here!” And don’t be surprised when every plate arrives at the table looking like the cover of Gourmet magazine. Just smile, do the Instagram and grind ‘em. . . . 1280 South Kīhei Road, Kīhei • 891-8650 • NalusMaui.com

ARIA’S RESTAURANT & CATERING COMPANY|BEST BUSINESS LUNCH|SILVER

When our senior editor (who doesn’t cook) said she liked the lamb shank at Aria’s so much, it inspired her to run to Whole Foods and buy one to try to replicate the dish, I knew I had to go eat there. My daughter Tori and I arrive during their 5:30 service; a few other guests are in hushed conversation while John Coltrane blues softly fill the air. I order the lamb shank and the waitress asks

Eating & Drinking MauiMagazine.net

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Nick's-20

UNCOMPROMISING SINCE 1985

Mahalo for selecting us, Best Fish/Seafood and Best Wine List in 2015!

Founder/CEO Aaron Placourakis was raised around great food. And like all Greeks, he was instilled with the belief that “family” isn’t limited to close relatives, but includes all who are gathered around the table. It’s an approach that’s perfected by his team, who greet you at the door as a friend. We invite you to join us. Be a part of the family. Create unforgettable memories in the most spectacular settings on earth. And rediscover the joy of good living.

Maui’s premier seafood restaurant Happy Hour Nightly 808 879-7224 | Wailea

Spectacular dining steps from the beach Happy Hour Nightly Serving breakfast and dinner 808 875-7555 | Kihei

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Aria’s

2016 best business lunch silver

if Tori and I are splitting the dish. “No,” I answer, “it’s for me. Tori is ordering a pasta.” We finish eating our petite Caesar salads and the entrées arrive. Mine is ginormous. Prepared in a savory, rich chocolate chipotle sauce chock-full of carrots, tomatoes and onions, the tender meat has just the right amount of spiciness, while the creamy maizena (polenta) transports me to a Left: Aria’s braised chocolate chipotle food memory in South Carolina. lamb shank on red-pepper maizena is big Tori dips her fork into my dish for a enough to share. Above: If you’re lucky, the special of the day may be seared ‘ahi taste, and comes back again a few with a yuzu beurre blanc and balsamic more times. miso drizzle. Good food genetics run deep in the Carson family, who hail from Newport, Rhode Island. Aria, the grandmother of restaurant owners Ed and Majik Carson, worked as an in-house caterer for the Vanderbilts and the Kennedys, and for jazz-festival promoter George Wein. As much as I try, I can only eat about a third of the lamb, and box the rest to enjoy at home. Sheepishly, I tell our server, “Now I know why you asked if we were splitting the dish.” As for our senior editor, she flubbed the recipe, but found a silver lining: a great excuse to head back to the Vineyard Street restaurant for another lamb shank . . . though, to be honest, you don’t need any excuse to eat at Aria’s. 2062 West Vineyard Street, Wailuku • 242-ARIA (2742) • AriasMaui.com

COURTESY OF ARIA’S RESTAURANT & CATERING

Dining

established 1990 in the historic lahaina inn dinner served nightly from 5:30pm www.facebook.com/lahainagrill twitter: @lahainagrill

127 lahainaluna road lahaina, maui, hawaii 96761

808.667.5117

www.lahainagrill.com

Eating & Drinking MauiMagazine.net

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COURTESY OF MAKA BY MANA

MAKA BY MANA FOODS|BEST HEALTHY CHOICES|SILVER

I’ve been stalking Chef Shanaan Fader for a few years now. The former lead chef of a local health-food deli, he says, “I was offered the job to open Maka by Ed Thiel, the owner of Mana Foods. He basically said, ‘Do it.’ And he walked away. It was like being given a gift.” Fader’s mise en place may not be every chef’s cup of kombucha. Dehydrating, puréeing, juicing and fermenting drive his novel menu; a minimum of five cooks in the kitchen allows for preparing everything from scratch—no canned goods whatsoever. Fader is known for his perfected recipes for coconut kefir, coconut yogurt ice cream and exotic presentations of (mostly) raw vegan fare. He says, “When I moved to Maui from New York, there were so many great local products, like the coconut. So I made it a point to use these ingredients in my dishes.” Those dishes include fresh, organic Maui produce (supplemented minimally with produce from the continent), served with protein-rich dehydrated nut breads and nut cheeses; and a chickpea waffle bread that is the perfect foil for Fader’s “vegetarian burger”—a mix of root vegetables, greens and Mediterranean spices. And for dessert, how about a probiotic feast? Fader makes his New York-style cheesecake with—what else?— coconut yogurt. The raw-food “cookie” base combines Brazil nuts, cashews, organic coconut sugar, and more; it’s juxtaposed with a silky-smooth cheesecake in all-natural flavors like coconut, lime, or pittaya (dragon fruit) and vanilla. If you’re searching for the elusive durian-raspberry-coconut ice cream, look no further. Shanaan has made some for you!

Maka

2016 best healthy choices silver

Above: Maka serves its veggie burger on sesame waffle bread with a pickled pohole escabeche and a classic tahini sauce. Left: Maka’s New York cheesecake gets an island accent with pohaberry compote.

115 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia • 579-9125 • MakaByMana.com

ITalIan PerFeCTIon Satisfy your palate at the award-winning Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, serving delicious traditional cuisine with a local sustainable twist. If you plan to dine early or late, ask for the Tramonto Three-Course Prix Fixe Menu with delectable options at a special price. Dinner: Thursday through Monday, 5:30 to 9:30pm Wine Social: Sunday and Monday, 5:00 to 5:30pm FOR RESERVATIONS, CALL 808-667-3254 OR VISIT WESTINKAANAPALI.COM TO BOOK ONLINE.

6 Kai ala Drive, north Kā‘anapali Beach, Maui ©2016 Starwood Hotels & resorts Worldwide, Inc. all rights reserved. SPG, Preferred Guest, Westin and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. Pūlehu, an Italian Grill | Wine Spectator Award 2015, 2014, 2013, Pūlehu, an Italian Grill - Best Italian (Gold) | MNKO ‘Aipono Award 2015, 2014, 2013

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Eating & Drinking

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Dining Raise Your Glass

VINTAGE PERFORMANCE At 35, the Kapalua Wine and Food Festival uncorks a celebration of culinary excellence—and you’re invited. STORY BY DIANE HAYNES WOODBURN

its kind in the U.S.—and his joie de vivre is both legendary and infectious. So is his pedigree: his godfather was Frank Sinatra. His dad and Frank were best friends, as were his grandmother and Old Blue Eyes’ mom. Back in the sixties, Jordan Senior opened the famed Italian restaurant Matteo’s in Los Angeles. “Frank would come into the restaurant four nights a week. That,” (and the delicious food) Jordan tells me, “is what made Matteo’s the celebrity hangout it was.” In the 1970s, a second and equally respected Matteo’s opened in Waikīkī, which is how Jordan happened to grow up in the Islands. (The Waikīkī restaurant sold in 1984, and only recently closed.) Combine Jordan’s love of food, celebrity family life, and deep “local boy” appreciation for Hawai‘i and you have the core ingredients that created the man known within the food-and-wine community as “sommelier for the people.” “In celebration of the thirty-fifth year, we’ll be going international,” Jordan says. And that means, you guessed it, Italian is on the list. “We are excited to have Chef Michele Mazza from Il Mulino, one of the greatest Italian restaurants in New York. And we are bringing in exquisite Italian wines to pair with his food.”

Above: Michael Jordan (left) and Dan Kosta of Kosta Browne Winery at Michael Mina’s cooking demonstration in 2015. Below: Heidi Barrett will introduce her La Sirena Cabernet Sauvignon.

TOP & MIDDLE: SEAN M. HOWER

As humorist Dorothy Parker once noted, “Men seldom make passes at girls who wear glasses.” But girls who fill glasses? That’s another story. Parker herself was fond of imbibing, and would no doubt applaud a woman like Heidi Barrett, who made history in 2000 when a six-liter bottle of her ’92 Screaming Eagle wine sold at the Napa Valley Wine Auction for $500,000. Barrett is one of the notable winemakers you’ll meet at the 2016 Kapalua Wine and Food Festival, being held June 9 through 12 at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua. And she won’t be alone. Master Sommelier Michael Jordan is assembling a panel of women winemakers for a talk and tasting he’s titled “Women of the Vines.” “Many of today’s exceptional wines are crafted by women winemakers who have a fabulous sense of flavor and create wines of great balance, finesse and style,” he says. “I predict that very soon there will be as many great women winemakers as men.” (Jordan hopes the panel will also encourage spinoffs to bring in more women chefs.) “It’s not a competition,” he adds, “just gifted people making delicious wines.” Jordan is lead sommelier for the thirtyfifth annual Kapalua Wine and Food Festival —one of the longest-running festivals of Eating & Drinking MauiMagazine.net

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A recipe for authenticity in a legendary setting.

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Dining Raise Your Glass

Above: Chef Hugh Acheson has been a contestant and judge on Bravo TV’s Top Chef Masters. Left: Chef Michele Mazza of New York’s acclaimed Il Mulino restaurant. Both men will present cooking demonstrations at the festival. Wine dinners are also planned.

Also coming this year is celebrity chef Hugh Acheson from Texas, whom you may recognize as both a competitor and judge on Bravo TV’s Top Chef Masters. Chef Mazza and Chef Acheson will wow us with two cooking demonstrations, including lunch with paired wines chosen by host Michael Jordan. Wine dinners are also being planned. The food is out of this world, but what we really come to the Kapalua Wine and Food Festival for, as Jordan says, is “the wine and the people who make it.” Among his favorite panels is “Family Tree: Scions of Family Wineries,” scheduled for June 11. Secondand third-generation winemakers will share stories, wines, and perhaps a few family secrets. “We have father-and-son legends Tim and Carl Mondavi of Continuum, Larry and Christopher Hyde of Hyde & Sons, and Robert and Brandon deLuze of ZD Wines. This is the family tree of the divine,” Jordan emphasizes. “These guys embody the passion that goes into artisan winemaking.” Another of Jordan’s “not to be missed” panels is the cabernet sauvignon retrospective. “We’ll compare wines from a decade ago with their current release,” Jordan says, then explains, “As the tannins and pigment

settle, the wines grow softer, more elegant, with wonderful truffle and cigar-box earth tones. Ten years is about when they peak.” Jordan is one of just 129 master sommeliers in North America, and one of only 15 people in the world to hold both Certified Wine Educator and International Court of Master Sommeliers diplomas. He also won Wine Enthusiast’s highest honor, the Award of Ultimate Distinction, from 2004 to 2009. Today Jordan continues his reputation for excellence as director of global key accounts for Jackson Family Fine Wines. When asked what he sees as the future for the festival, Jordan doesn’t skip a beat. “I hope it continues in the direction it’s going, because it truly stands apart with island warmth and aloha. This festival belongs to everyone in attendance; there’s no separation of guys up on the stage and others in the audience. We mix and mingle with true Hawaiian hospitality. Maui is family.” We hope you’ll join us at the Kapalua Wine and Food Festival. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi will be there, once again hosting “Best of the Fest” at the Sunday-night grand finale, the Seafood Festival. For details and schedule, visit KapaluaWineAndFood.com.

Eating & Drinking MauiMagazine.net

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Just steps from the water’s edge. Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!

Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com

The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours. 505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com

Kapalua just got delizioso!

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Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Eating & Drinking

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Dining ‘Aipono Special Award

2016 Chef of the Year MIKE LOFARO STORY BY BECKY SPEERE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIEKO HORIKOSHI

For our March-April 2015 issue, Chef Mike Lofaro let us watch him prepare ‘ahi tartare as he does for the Grand Wailea’s Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a restaurant. Then he gave us the recipe. Find it at MauiMagazine.net/Ahi-Tartare.

It’s six-thirty in the morning and Chef Michael Lofaro, in surf trunks and a widebrimmed hat, is pulling a state-of-the-art ocean kayak into the surf. Effortlessly, he throws his legs over and into the well and begins paddling. He’s fishing, and has known since his teenage years, when he worked on a fifty-six-foot commercial fishing boat in the Atlantic Ocean, that the early bird catches the uku (gray snapper). As I watch him crisscross the glassy cerulean waters off Kīhei’s shore, I get “chicken skin,” remembering the eye-popping story Lofaro told me in 2015: “I was pulling in a huge swordfish [off the coast of Maine], and just as I grabbed it by the mouth to pull it onto the boat, the biggest mako shark I’ve ever seen came straight up out of the water. As we made eye contact, the shark took the fish’s body in its mouth in one bite, leaving me with two inches of fish in my hand.”

Lofaro continues to share his experiences with guests at monthly Ka Malama dinners at the Grand Wailea Resort’s Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a restaurant, a series inspired by the Hawaiian moon calendar. He calls it “a journey within a journey,” part of his quest to capture the cultural essence and lifestyle of days gone by, when life was harder, but simpler. Honoring the Hawaiian culture has earned him the respect of industry peers. With veracity and years of practiced kitchen skills, Lofaro unleashes a creativity that awes fellow chefs with dishes such as akule (scad) stuffed with wild honohono grass, and fresh Maui uni (sea urchin) frosted with kaffir-lime shaved ice atop a pale pink slice of uku (deep-sea snapper) in a delicate butterfly ginger-yuzu broth. Lofaro and Kainoa Horcajo, Grand Wailea’s Hawaiian cultural advisor, costar in KHON TV’s Search Hawai‘i show, foraging in pristine

Eating & Drinking MauiMagazine.net

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Feast at Lele v10n5-mnko

10/18/06

12:41 PM

Page 1

kipa mai (welcome) . . .

Share the aloha in a journey through Polynesia. The Feast at Lele brings you a royal tour of the cuisine of Polynesia which shares the spotlight with music and dance from four exotic Pacific islands.

Come visit,

H awa i ‘ i

“This is the most fabulous cooking on Maui, which is saying a lot.” —Travel & Leisure “an intimate experience with ‘up to date’ Polynesian cuisine . . . the entertainment is top-notch.”

Ao t e a r o a

—Travel Holiday

Ta h i t i

Brought to you by the creators of Old Lahaina Lu‘au & Pacific’O Restaurant. Menu developed by “Maui’s Best Chef” (The Maui News), James McDonald.

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Toll Free : (866) 244-5353 (Lele) 505 Front Street, Lahaina Town, Maui, Hawai‘i 96761 www.feastatlele.com

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Samoa

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For reservations call

5/10/16 5:49 PM

‘Aipono Special Award

WHAT HIS PEERS SAY. . .

forests, rocky black-lava bays, and the deep ocean to harvest ingredients for Ka Malama. Each course contains one or more elements of the hunt; each dinner, held once a quarter, elicits excitement from guests who seek a once-in-a-lifetime dining experience. Lofaro returns to the shore, his blue eyes smiling as he holds up a beautiful gray snapper he’ll prepare for dinner tonight for his family. Happily, most other nights, the rest of us can enjoy the great fare Chef Mike creates at Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a. Congratulations, Chef Michael Lofaro, ‘Aipono’s 2016 Chef of the Year.

“I have only known Mike as a chef for a short time, but every time I am involved in events with him, he continues to impress me with his humbleness and sense of self, and an incredible imagination using our local bounty. Mike is taking our farm-to-table cuisine to an exciting and thoughtful level.”—Ryan Luckey, executive chef, Leilani’s on the Beach

“Truly innovative with his new Ka Malama dinners based on the Hawaiian moon calendar.”—Kyle Kawakami, chef-owner, Maui Fresh Streatery “Chef Mike is not only extremely talented, but is passionate and continues to strive to be creative. He is definitely one of the leading chefs on Maui’s food scene.” —Jeff Scheer, chef, The Mill House at Tropical Plantation and 2015 ‘Aipono Chef of the Year. “Innovative yet humble, [Mike] has a keen, ever-searching creativity which connects his plates to this beautiful place with [its] rich food culture. Mike rocks!”—Jana McMahon, chef-owner, Maui Private Chef

YVONNE BIEGEL

Food as adventure: Mike explores the land and sea, discovering a wondrous array of wild foods to add to his next Ka Malama menu.

“Mike has a highly skilled and refined approach to creating menus using fresh, locally sourced food. He’s constantly evolving in [his] food philosophy and personal growth, and is respected in Maui’s chef community. It’s a pleasure to watch Lofaro’s voice grow and develop as a leading Maui chef.”—Chris Speere, UH– Maui Food Innovation Center

www.mauimagazine.net

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Mauiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most romantic sunsets and freshest seafood. RESERVATIONS: (808) 875-1234 3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, HI 96753 www.grandwailea.com | @grandwailea

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‘Aipono Award Winners Japengo~Silver, Restaurant of the Year; Gold, Best Asian; Gold, Best Sushi

Kō~Gold, Best Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine

Nobu: Silver, Best Restaurant on an Island Next Door

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine presents the 2016 ‘Aipono Restaurant

Award Winners Gold

Silver

WHAT’S IN A NAME? In Hawaiian, ‘ai means “to eat,” and pono means “excellence. Put them together, and you have

an awards competition that honors the island’s best restaurants, as voted by the readers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi. The ‘Aipono Gala raises funds for the Maui Culinary Academy at the University of Hawai‘i–Maui College, and creates real-world mentoring for tomorrow’s chefs. The ‘Aipono Wine Dinner series also benefits the Academy, while inviting you to explore outstanding wines paired with special menus at ‘Aipono Award-winning restaurants. (Sign up for notices of upcoming wine dinners at MauiMagazine.net/Aipono.)

RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR Monkeypod Kitchen 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea | 891-2322 MonkeypodKitchen.com/Wailea ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Japengo Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali | 667-4727 | JapengoMaui.com

_______________________________ BEST NEW RESTAURANT Nalu’s South Shore Grill 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei | 891-8650 | NalusMaui.com

Frida’s Mexican Beach House 1287 Front St., Lahaina | 661-1287 | FridasMaui.com

_______________________________ MOST “MAUI-EST” Mama’s Fish House 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au | 579-8488 | MamasFishHouse.com ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Pacific’O Tie for Silver 505 Front St., Lahaina | 667-4341 | PacificOMaui.com The Sea House Restaurant Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili 669-1500 | SeaHouseMaui.com

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Make cherished memories at Maui’s most exciting lu‘au! Stunning sunset views from the ocean side venue Traditional imu ceremony Delicious all you-can-eat Hawaiian cuisine Open bar featuring beer, wine, Mai Tais and more On-stage hula lesson Authentic songs, chants and dramatic dances Three-man Samoan fire-knife dance!

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‘Aipono Award Winners

Merriman’s Kapalua~Silver, Best Oceanfront Dining

Cane & Canoe~Silver, Most Innovative Menu (tie)

BOTTOM RIGHT: NINA KUNA

Ka‘ana Kitchen~Silver, Most Innovative Menu (tie)

Maui No Ka ‘Oi Magazine ‘Aipono Award

Best Mexican Restaurant 2O15

MUCHO MAHALO FOR YOUR VOTE

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Gold

‘Aipono Award Winners

Silver

BEST RESTAURANT ON AN ISLAND NEXT DOOR The Pig & the Lady 83 N. King St., Honolulu | 808-585-8255 ThePigAndTheLady.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Koko Head Cafe 1145c 12th Ave., Honolulu | 808-732-8920 KokoHeadCafe.com

_____________________ BEST SERVICE

Nick’s Fishmarket Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea | 879-7224 NicksFishmarketMaui.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Mama’s Fish House 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au | 579-8488 MamasFishHouse.com

_____________________ BEST OCEANFRONT DINING

Mama’s Fish House 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au | 579-8488 MamasFishHouse.com ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

Merriman’s Kapalua 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua | 669-6400 MerrimansHawaii.com/kapalua

_____________________ MOST ROMANTIC SETTING Capische? Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi Rd., Wailea 879-2224 | Capische.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Sarento’s on the Beach 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei | 875-7555 SarentosOnTheBeach.com

_____________________

BEST HEALTHY CHOICES Choice Health Bar 1087 Limahana Pl., Lahaina | 661-7711 ChoiceMaui.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Maka by Mana 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia | 579-9125 MakaByMana.com

_____________________ Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a~ Gold, Most Innovative Menu; Silver, Best Pacific Rim Cuisine

BEST SHORTS & SLIPPERS DINING Hula Grill Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali | 667-6636 HulaGrillKaanapali.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Aloha Mixed Plate 1285 Front St., Lahaina | 661-3322 AlohaMixedPlate.com

_____________________

MOST INNOVATIVE MENU Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a The Grand Wailea, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea | 875-1234 | GrandWailea.com/dine ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Eating & Drinking

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‘Aipono Award Winners

Gold

BEST HAPPY HOUR

Cane & Canoe Tie for Silver Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua 662-6681 | MontageHotels.com/Kapalua Bay/dining/cane-and-canoe Ka‘ana Kitchen Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea 573-1234 | AndazMaui.com

The Sea House Restaurant Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili | 669-1500 SeaHouseMaui.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Fleetwood’s on Front St. 744 Front St., Lahaina | 669-MICK (6425) FleetwoodsOnFrontSt.com

_____________________

BEST BREAKFAST The Gazebo Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili | 669-5621 •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Kihei Caffe 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei | 879-2230 KiheiCaffe.com

BEST ASIAN Japengo Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali 667-4727 | JapengoMaui.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar Kīhei Town Center, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei | 879-0004 • 600 Office Rd., Kapalua 669-6286 • SanseiHawaii.com

_____________________ BEST BUSINESS LUNCH

Bistro Casanova 33 Lono Ave., Kahului | 873-3650 BistroCasanova.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Aria’s Restaurant & Catering 2062 W. Vineyard St., Wailuku 242-ARIA (2742) | AriasMaui.com

_____________________ BEST SOUTHEAST ASIAN

A Saigon Cafe 1792 Main St., Wailuku | 243-9560 ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

_____________________

lahaina fried soup yakitori

_____________________ BEST BURGER Teddy’s Bigger Burgers 335 Keawe St., Lahaina | 661-9111 TeddysBB.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Pailolo Bar & Grill Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali | 667-3200 WestinKaanapali.com/dining/pailolo

_____________________ BEST HAWAI‘I REGIONAL CUISINE

Kō Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea | 875-2210 KoRestaurant.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Roy’s 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali 669-6999 | RoysHawaii.com

_____________________

ahi avo

singapore noodles

steamed pork buns hapa ramen

Thai Chef 878 Front St., Lahaina | 667-2814 ThaiChefRestaurantMaui.com

pahole salad

star udon

garlic noodles

Silver

pad thai

sake cocktails

Eating & Drinking MauiMagazine.net

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Nalu is the hapa-hawaiian phrase meaning to “go with the flow.” With that mindset the owners of Nalu’s have made it their focus to source the best Hawai‘i has to offer, combining local flavors and the freshest island ingredients available.

SO COME ON IN TO NALU’S AND GO WITH THE FLOW. IN THE HEART OF KĪHEI AT AZEKA ONE 1280 S. Kihei Rd (808) 891-8650

EAT LIVE

PONO

ONO GELATO KIHEI & THE MAUI SANDWICH SHACK TWO CAFES—ONE LOCATION

COWABAUNGA REUBEN

KOMBUCHA FLOATS

ISLAND GELATERIA, FRESH-MADE SANDWICHES, SALADS AND MORE

TRIPLE DECKER BIG WAVE CLUB

NORTH BEACH CLUB

CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE DOUGH

DINE IN OR TAKE OUT 1280 SOUTH KIHEI RD.

KIHEI SUNSET

PISTACHIO

CLUCKED DOUBLE DECKER

808-495-0287 ONOGELATOKIHEI.COM

JAWS CLUB

IN WAILEA? YOU CAN ALSO VISIT ONO GELATO AT THE GRAND WAILEA RESORT IN CAFĒ KULA

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » May-Jun 2016

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‘Aipono Award Winners

“Treat your friends like family & your family like friends” —Big Manoli

Gold

Silver

BEST PACIFIC RIM CUISINE Spago Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea | 874-8000 FourSeasons.com/Maui/dining •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a The Grand Wailea, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea | 875-1234 | GrandWailea.com/dine

_____________________ BEST LŪ‘AU

Old Lāhaina Lū‘au 1251 Front St., Lahaina | 667-0700 OldLahainaLuau.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• The Feast at Lele 505 Front St., Lahaina | 667-5353 FeastAtLele.com

_____________________ BEST MEXICAN

Great pizza made with whole wheat or gluten-free crusts. Wide variety of appetizers, pastas, salads as well as daily Chef’s specials. Awesome burgers and sandwiches at lunchtime as well as homemade fries. We are passionate about using fresh, local, organic and sustainable products when available.

OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT Happy Hour From 3 pm - 6 pm & 9 pm - 12 am | 100 Wailea Ike Drive Located across from the Wailea Blue Golf Course Pro Shop

TAKEOUT & DELIVERY: 808.874.7499

Frida’s Mexican Beach House 1287 Front St., Lahaina | 661-1287 FridasMaui.com Sangrita Grill +Cantina Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali 662-6000 | SangritaGrill.com

_____________________ BEST ITALIAN Capische? Tie for Gold Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi Rd., Wailea 879-2224 | Capische.com Sale Pepe 878 Front St., Lahaina | 667-7667 SalePepeMaui.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Matteo’s Osteria Tie for Silver 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea | 879-8466 MatteosMaui.com Pūlehu, an Italian Grill Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali | 667-3200 PulehuRestaurantMaui.com

_____________________ BEST PLATE LUNCH

Aloha Mixed Plate 1285 Front St., Lahaina | 661-3322 AlohaMixedPlate.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Da Kitchen Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului 871-7782 • Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782 • Da-Kitchen.com

ManolisPizzaCompany.com 32

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Eating & Drinking MauiMagazine.net

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every raindrop every wind every sunrise every sunset captured in a bottle

mauiwine.com

808.878.6058

“WOW”

“...this is, by far, the best sushi I’ve ever had. So fresh and beautifully presented. Doesn’t hurt that they run their own fishing boat...” – Jennifer P.

Kahana - West Maui (808) 669-9010 Kihei - South Maui (808) 891-MISO (6476) Azeka Place Mauka, 1279 South Kihei Road #108

www.MisoPhat.com

FEATURED ROLL

Kahana Manor, 4310 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy #111

TNT Roll (MISO the Bomb)

Shrimp Tempura and Crab Roll topped with Ahi Poke and served with Unagi sauce and Agave Honey. So big you could explode!

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » May-Jun 2016

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‘Aipono Award Winners Gold

Silver

BEST PIZZA Flatbread Company 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia | 579-8989 FlatbreadCompany.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Monkeypod Kitchen Tie for Silver 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea | 891-2322 MonkeypodKitchen.com/Wailea Pizza Madness 1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei | 270-9888 PizzaMadnessMaui.com Prison Street Pizza 133 Prison St., Lahaina | 662-3332 PrisonStreetPizza.com

_____________________ BEST NOODLES

Star Noodle 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina | 667-5400 StarNoodle.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Sam Sato’s 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku | 244-7124

_____________________ BEST FISH & SEAFOOD

Mama’s Fish House 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au | 579-8488 MamasFishHouse.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Lahaina Grill 127 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina | 667-5117 LahainaGrill.com

_____________________ BEST STEAK

Ruth’s Chris Steak House Lahaina Center, 900 Front St., Lahaina 661-8815 • The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea | 874-8880 RuthsChris.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Duo Tie for Silver Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea | 874-8000 FourSeasons.com/Maui/dining Son’z Steakhouse Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali 667-4727 | SonzRestaurant.com

_____________________ BEST SUSHI

Japengo Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali 667-4727 JapengoMaui.com ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

Eating & Drinking MauiMagazine.net

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VISIT OUR FARM AND DISTILLERY OPEN FOR TOURS 7 DAYS A WEEK

808.877.0009

oceanvodka.com

@oceanvodka

#oceanvodka

At Ululani's, we make 100% of our ice and syrup with purified water, pure cane sugar, premium fruit purees, fruit juices and select concentrates to create a truly memorable gourmet shave ice experience.

over 2000+ reviews

over 3100+ reviews

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » May-Jun 2016

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‘Aipono Award Winners Gold

Silver

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar Kīhei Town Center, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei 879-0004 • 600 Office Rd., Kapalua 669-6286 • SanseiHawaii.com

_____________________ BEST FISH TACO Coconuts Fish Café 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei | 875-9979 CoconutsFishCafe.com ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Leilani’s on the Beach Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali | 661-4495 | Leilanis.com

_____________________ BEST FOOD TRUCK Maui Fresh Streatery 137 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului 344-7929 | MauiFreshStreatery.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Shark Pit Food Truck 78 Ulupono St., Lahaina | 298-7776

_____________________ BEST POKE

Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors 199 Dairy Rd., Kahului | 873-8000 226 Kupuohi St., Lahaina | 667-9000 841 Alua St., Wailuku | 242-0957 TamurasFineWine.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Foodland 90 Kane St., Kahului | 877-2808 370 Kehalani Village Dr., Wailuku | 244-4460 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei | 879-9350 878 Front St., Lahaina | 661-0975 Pukalani Terrace Center | 572-0674 Foodland.com/stores

_____________________ BEST SHAVE ICE

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei 790 Front St., Lahaina 819 Front St., Lahaina Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali 877-3700 • UlulanisShaveIce.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Local Boys Shave Ice 624 Front St., Lahaina • 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei • 344-9779 • LocalBoysShaveIce.com

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IKI THAI CUISINE T I K I T

After your long drive back from Hana, or on your way to the airport stop for a delicious meal at Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, Maui’s newest authentic Thai restaurant in Kahului across from Savers in the Dairy Center, down from Office FedX. And now, Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine II, once again Mauis newest most authentic Thai restaurant, in the Wharf Cinema Center across from the famous Lahaina Banyan Court Park, Front Street Lahaina. Relax and enjoy absolutely delicious Thai food. Uncle careful your level of spice and Anti B we put no M.S.G. Taste our house favorites: Thai style Filet Mignon in Creamy Thai Chili Sauce; delicious Panang Curry; or our famous Volcano Fish. Excellent vegetarian selections. You will love every bite. We cater weddings, reunions, private parties. Performing traditional Thai dance at both locations. Lahaina: Mon & Thurs 7pm to 9pm | Kahului: Wed & Fri 7pm -9pm

KAHULUI Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine 395 Dairy Road (808) 893-0026 Open Daily 10am–10pm

LAHAINA Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine II Wharf Center, 658 Front St. (808) 661-1919 / 283-5202 Open Daily 10am–10pm 2 hours free validated parking at Wharf Parking Lot

Italian Soul in The Heart Of Wailea

REGIONALLY INSPIRED CUISINE BY ITALIAN BORN CHEF MATTEO MISTURA

Featuring Hawaii’s largest wine selection Handcrafted Italian Artisan Pizza’s & Pasta’s Proudly use locally sourced products Vegetarian & Gluten Free 64 Wines by the glass HAPPY HOUR M-F 3 - 5pm (wine bar only) LUNCH M-F 11:30am - 3pm | DINNER DAILY 5 - 9:30pm WAILEA TOWN CENTER, 161 WAILEA IKE PLACE

808-891-VINO (8466) Available for Large Parties

www.MatteosMaui.com

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » May-Jun 2016

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‘Aipono Award Winners Gold

Silver

BEST DESSERT Pūlehu, an Italian Grill Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali | 667-3200 PulehuRestaurantMaui.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu 662-3600 | Leodas.com

_____________________

exPeRIence POLyneSIA Wailele Polynesian Lūa‘u presents a spectacular revue featuring the songs and dances of Hawai‘i and Polynesia, complemented by a lavish island-style buffet dinner and all-inclusive beverages. Tuesdays, Thursdays & sundays Oceanfront at the Aloha Pavilion Reservations required, please call 808.661.2992

BEST BAR Monkeypod Kitchen 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea | 891-2322 MonkeypodKitchen.com/wailea •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Pailolo Bar & Grill Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali | 667-3200 WestinKaanapali.com/dining/pailolo

_____________________ BEST COCKTAILS

Mahalo for voting us Best Healthy Choice at the ‘Aipono Awards 5 years in a row!

Fleetwood’s on Front St. 744 Front St., Lahaina | 669-MICK (6425) FleetwoodsOnFrontSt.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• The Banyan Tree Tie for Silver The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua | 665-7096 RitzCarlton.com/en/hotels/kapalua-maui Cow Pig Bun 535 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei | 875-8100 CowPigBun.com

_____________________ BEST LOBBY LOUNGE

Botero Lounge The Grand Wailea, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea | 875-1234 | GrandWailea.com/dine •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Lobby Lounge Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea | 874-8000 FourSeasons.com/Maui/dining

_____________________ BEST WINE LIST

açaí bowls • juices • smoothies • soups • salads • sushi Monday–Saturday | 8 am–9:30 pm 1087 Limahana Place, Lahaina 808.661.7711 | ChoiceHealthBar.com

ChoiceHealthBar ChoiceHealthBar

Lahaina Grill 127 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina | 667-5117 LahainaGrill.com •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Nick’s Fishmarket Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea 879-7224 | NicksFishmarketMaui.com Find more restaurant listings at MauiMagazine.net/Maui-Dining-Guide

Eating & Drinking MauiMagazine.net

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‘Aipono Award Winners

ESTABLISHED 1973

Serving Hawaii’s Restaurant & Fine Wine Community since 1979

Special Awards

EACH YEAR, ‘AIPONO HONORS A FEW INDIVIDUALS AND COMPANIES CHOSEN BY INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS.

@ChamberswinesHI

ChambersWinesHawaii

@ChamberswinesHI

Importers & Distributors of the World’s Finest Wines www.ChambersWines.com

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT Aaron Placourakis, President & CEO Tri-Star Restaurant Group Aaron Placourakis hails from a long line of Greek food merchants, and learned the ingredients for hospitality success early on: quality food and high-caliber service offered in a warm and inviting atmosphere. A Hawai‘i resident since 1985, Placourakis is president and CEO for the restaurant group that owns Nick’s Fishmarket, Sarento’s on the Beach, Son’z Steakhouse, and Manoli’s Pizza Company on Maui; and Sarento’s Top of the “I” in Waikīkī. His Maui restaurants have earned an impressive twenty-five ‘Aipono Awards. “The high quality of Aaron’s restaurants— the food, the wine, and attention to detail by his staff—is well known. If Aaron is going to do it, it’s going to be first class,” says Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine publisher Diane Haynes Woodburn. Placourakis’s sense of service extends into the local community. He is a past chairman of the Hawai‘i Restaurant Association, a former board member of the Hawaii Food Bank, and was honored as Ambassador of the Year by the nonprofit Ka Lima O Maui, which serves developmentally challenged adults. He has spearheaded fundraisers for

Eating & Drinking MauiMagazine.net

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‘Aipono Award Winners the Hawai‘i and Maui food banks, Junior Diabetes Research Foundation, St. Francis Hospice Care, YMCA, Maui Visitor Industry Charity Walk and Montessori Hale O Keiki. “If you’ve only met Aaron once, what you remember is his charismatic personality and natural charm,” notes Haynes Woodburn. “But most impressive is what one doesn’t see at first glance—that behind the bigger life presence is a humble and generous heart. He is a giver, and doesn’t make a lot of noise about it.” Chef Perry Bateman (right) with taro farmer Bobby Pahia

maui county farm bureau’s

MONDAYS 11-1PM UH MAUI COLLEGE CAMPUS WEDNESDAYS 11-1PM WAILUKU BANYAN TREE PARK (MARKET & VINEYARD) FRIDAYS 11-1PM ILIMA SHELL SERVICE STATION (137 KAAHMANU AVE)

808.344.7929

FRIEND OF AGRICULTURE Perry Bateman, Executive Chef Mama’s Fish House In 2001, Mama’s Fish House named Perry Bateman executive chef, giving him charge of a team of nearly 100 employees. In the years since, the restaurant has received countless accolades and awards, including an unflappable record as the most-winning restaurant in ‘Aipono history: forty-four ‘Aiponos since the awards began in 2003. Coincidence? We don’t think so. Chef Bateman’s contribution to Maui’s culinary scene reaches far beyond treating diners’ taste buds. His passion for homegrown agriculture has empowered and inspired local farmers. “He supported local agriculture before ‘farm-to-table’ was a concept,” notes Maui County Farm Bureau Executive Director Warren Watanabe. “He follows farmers who have trucks loaded with produce and asks them if he can buy produce from them. He goes to taro farms to walk the land, takes the product back into his kitchen and works his magic.” Helping to mālama (care for) Maui’s resources is especially fulfilling for Bateman, given his cultural understanding of food as a precious, limited and vital resource. For him,

Eating & Drinking MauiMagazine.net

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SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS

Enjoy the hospitality of Maui’s plantation era at the historic Pioneer Inn on Lahaina Harbor. Plenty of Places to Shop with over 14 Retailers ∏ Restaurants Banyan Treats

Pioneer Inn Bar & Grill

Bad Ass Coffee

Best Western Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina (808) 661-3636 www.pioneerinnmaui.com

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‘Aipono Award Winners food is life, and gathering and sharing the aloha spirit is what makes Hawai‘i special. Chef Bateman notes, “[There are] thirdgeneration fishermen still fishing as a lifestyle and providing for their families, [and] thirdgeneration farmers leasing additional land to grow more food. I love being part of a restaurant that helps to make our islands more sustainable in so many ways.”

EAT, DRINK, AND LIVE WELL EVERY DAY TIL MIDNIGHT

535 LIPOA PARKWAY, KIHEI | 808-875-8100 |

(ACROSS FROM MAUI BREWING CO.) | COWPIGBUN.COM

EXCELLENCE IN SUSTAINABILITY Westin Maui Resort & Spa The Westin Maui has made green its goal, and is asking everyone, from executives to staff to guests, to be part of the program. The resort has joined parent company Starwood Hotels & Resorts in its “30/20 by 20” initiative, which calls for a 30 percent reduction in energy use and a 20 percent reduction in water consumption at all its properties by 2020. The initiative began in 2007, when Starwood started collecting environmental data on those properties to set a baseline. To meet those goals, Westin Maui staff have been supporting local organic farmers, taking threatened seafood varieties off menus, composting landscape green waste, recycling more than 200 gallons of kitchen oil to biodiesel weekly, and other eco-friendly measures too numerous to mention here. Pacific Biodiesel Technologies is a proud sponsor of ‘Aipono’s Excellence in Sustainability Award, and company vice president Kelly King applauds the resort’s efforts. “The Westin’s initiative to eliminate Styrofoam from its operations is just one of the many ways the resort shows leadership and commitment to a sustainable future,” she says. In addition, as part of the “Make a Green Choice” program, guests who defer daily housekeeping services receive 500 Starpoints or dining credits. Guests who act on this offer help the resort save nearly forty gallons of water, enough electricity to run a laptop for ten hours, 25,000 British thermal units (BTU) of natural gas, and seven ounces of chemicals each day.

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a restaurant created by a man who loves to eat Serving Hawai‘i Since 1976

Best Award of Excellence Wine Spectator

Best Breakfast in Hawai‘i Zagat Survey

Restaurant of Distinction Honolulu Magazine Hale ‘Aina Award

Best Restaurant Honolulu Advertiser I‘lima Award

Best Italian Restaurant The Maui News “Best of Maui” Award

Best Mediterranean BEST Guidebook

‘Aipono Icon Award, Bob Longhi Maui No Ka ‘Oi Magazine

L A H A I N A / 8 8 8 F r o n t S t r e e t / 8 0 8 . 6 6 7. 2 2 8 8 WAILEA / The Shops at Wailea / 808.89 1.8883 HONOLULU / Ala Moana Center / 808.944.3733

WWW.LONGHIS.COM

LOCAL FLAVORS EXPRESSED THROUGH CULINARY INNOVATION Sharing food with the people you love is a big part of traditional Hawaiian culture, and our fresh restaurant Ka’ana Kitchen serves up some of Maui’s best dishes family style. So grab your favorite humans, and share farm-to-table cuisine expertly prepared to stimulate your sense of adventure. CALL US at +1 808 243 4750 to book your reservation.

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » May-Jun 2016

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ADVERTORIAL » MASTERS OF MIXOLOGY

ONO GELATO KĪHEI

& the Maui Sandwich Shack

1280 S. Kīhei Road, Kīhei | 808-495-0287 Daily, 10:30 a.m.–9:30 p.m. | OnoGelatoKihei.com

KOMBUCHA FLOATS

OCEAN ORGANIC VODKA 4051 Ōma‘opio Road, Kula | 808-877-0009 Guided tours daily, 9:30 a.m.–4 p.m. | OceanVodka.com

DA POI DOG 1½ oz. Ocean Organic Vodka ¾ oz. Thai basil & black peppercorn syrup ¾ oz. yuzu citrus juice 2½ oz. fresh-squeezed pomelo or grapefruit juice kosher salt & black pepper for rim 1 sprig Italian basil

Kombucha is made from fresh-brewed tea fermented with a culture to create a probioticrich, slightly fizzy beverage that the ancient Chinese called the “immortal health elixir.” It has been around for more than 2,000 years and has a rich anecdotal history of health benefits like preventing and fighting cancer, arthritis, and other degenerative diseases. Gelato is an age-old delicacy; the earliest frozen desserts were recorded in 3,000 B.C., when Asian societies discovered they could consume crushed ice and flavorings. Although gelato is rich and decadent, it is lower in fat and calories than traditional ice cream, and made with ingredients that are all found in nature. When combined, kombucha and gelato make an amazing, fizzy and creamy “grown-up” float high in protein, rich in calcium, with enzymes that detoxify the body, glucosamine for joint care, and probiotics that aid digestion and immune support.

This second annual Ultimate Ocean Showdown Cocktail winner was created by Ross Steidel.

PANGEA

NALU’S SOUTH SHORE GRILL

Ha‘ikū Marketplace, 810 Ha‘ikū Road, #404 | 808-575-5055 Tuesday–Saturday, 4–10 p.m. | PangeaMaui.com

1280 S. Kīhei Road, Kīhei | 808-891-8650 Daily, 8 a.m.–9 p.m.

THE ALCHEMIST smoked-tea ice cube (tulsi, gotu kola, lemongrass, mint, māmaki) Hawai'i honey Buffalo Trace bourbon Ha‘ikū lemon dash of cayenne The Alchemist is a universal cure for disease and a means for longevity. This sacred drink has its roots in Ha‘ikū, Maui, at the Ahimsa Farm Sanctuary. The herbs are organically grown, harvested and solar dried. We invite the herbs in our kitchen. The chef cold-smokes the herbs with local kiawe, which preserves the nutrients and enhances the flavor. After the tea is smoked, it is ready to brew.

Rim half of a Collins glass with salt and pepper. In a mixing tin, combine first four ingredients and shake for ten seconds. Strain over fresh ice into Collins glass. Garnish with sprig of Italian basil. Enjoy!

NALU'S MAI TAI rum triple sec amaretto fresh-squeezed lime, pineapple & mango juices dark & light rum float Nalu’s signature Macadamia Nut Rum Foam At Nalu’s, we’ve taken this tiki-bar staple and kicked it up a notch with premium ingredients and fresh-squeezed juice, all topped with our signature Macadamia Nut Rum Foam. Known for its fruity flavors and boozy kick, this tropical-drink favorite will have you calling for another round. Our drink menu also includes seasonal craft brews and Valley Isle Kombucha on tap, plus a fine selection of wines and special, hand-crafted cocktails.

Eating & Drinking MauiMagazine.net

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MASTERS OF MIXOLOGY « ADVERTORIAL

SANGRITA GRILL + CANTINA

MAUIWINE

Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Drive, Kā‘anapali 808-662-6000| Daily, 11 a.m.–9:30 p.m. | SangritaGrill.com

14815 Pi‘ilani Hwy., Ulupalakua | 808-878-6058 Daily, 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m. | MauiWine.com

PIÑA NON-COLADA 6 oz. Hula o Maui Pineapple Sparkling Wine ½ oz. coconut turbinado syrup (See recipe below.) 1 dash Bittermens Tiki Bitters In a champagne flute, add syrup, bitters and 1 oz. pineapple sparkling wine. Gently stir to mix. Top off with pineapple sparkling wine. Garnish with lemon twist.

NAGUAVI MARGARITA

LEMONGRASS SYRUP

1 oz. lemongrass syrup (See recipe at right.) 1 oz. guava purée ½ oz. fresh lime juice 1½ oz. Sauza Blue 100% Agave Tequila

20 habanero peppers, cut in half 1 lb. lemongrass, cut into 1” pieces 3 c. sugar 4 c. water

Shake with ice, then pour over ice into bucket glass. Garnish with lime wheel.

Bring all ingredients to boil, steep for 48 hours, strain.

Created at Luana, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, by lead mixologist Aaron Alcala-Mosley

COCONUT TURBINADO SYRUP turbinado sugar aged rum coconut extract

Add 2 parts turbinado sugar to 1 part cold water and stir until sugar is fully dissolved. Add 3 parts of this syrup to 1 part aged rum. Add 2 drops coconut extract per 2 oz. liquid, and stir to mix all ingredients.

MISO PHAT SUSHI

FAT DADDY’S SMOKEHOUSE

1279 S. Kīhei Road, #108, Kīhei | 808-891-MISO(6476) Sunday–Thursday, 11 a.m.–9 p.m. Friday & Saturday, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. | MisoPhat.com

1913 S. Kīhei Road, Kīhei | 808-879-8711 Daily, 4–9 p.m. | FatDaddysMaui.com

CLASSIC SAKÉ-TINI 2½ parts dry saké 1 part premium vodka Shake well over ice and strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with thin slices of Japanese cucumber. You can change the flavor of the saké or add your favorite fruit to spice up the cocktail.

OLD SMOKEY APPLE PIE This is a true smokehouse-style cocktail: We take our housemade lemonade, mix it with Ole Smoky Tennessee Moonshine and Smirnoff vodka, then finish with a splash of soda. This drink perfectly complements our wood-smoked cuisine and wide range of sides. Fat Daddy’s serves local beers and kiawe-wood-smoked meats that are never rushed. We smoke fresh daily to bring the best product to our guests. Come in and see how good this cocktail tastes with our BBQ. Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » Eating & Drinking

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ADVERTORIAL » MASTERS OF MIXOLOGY

KONA DEEP WATER

MATTEO’S OSTERIA

73-275 Makako Bay Dr., Kailua-Kona, Hawai‘i Island 808-327-1400|KonaDeep.com

161 Wailea Ike Place, Wailea | 808-891-VINO (8466) Monday–Friday, 11:30 a.m.–9:30 p.m. Saturday & Sunday 5–9:30 p.m. | MatteosMaui.com

KONA DEEP WATER This deeply refreshing and restorative water has a unique balance of naturally occurring deepocean electrolytes. Kona Deep comes from the deep ocean waters of Hawai‘i, more than 3,000 feet below the surface, where cold, pressure, and darkness combine to create an exceptionally high-quality water. We use a unique method to bring the water to the surface to offer you an extraordinary taste and hydration experience. In the process, we add nothing. Kona Deep is bottled right at the source and is now available in grocery, convenience and natural-food stores throughout Hawai‘i in 500 milliliter and 1 liter bottles.

At Matteo’s Osteria, embark on a liquid journey into our Grand Cruvinet or our custombuilt cantina housing 2,000 bottles of wine. Our Grand Cruvinet is the largest winepreservation system in Hawai‘i, and includes 64 wines by the glass in 3- or 6-ounce pours. Our system expertly controls the temperature of the wine and injects a seal of nitrogen that preserves the wine for freshness and full flavor. Hand-selected by Chef Matteo Mistura, our ever-evolving wine list features labels from Italy, as well as many domestic and other international wines. Our intention is to provide customers with the opportunity to explore and discover a palatable journey of wine. Our wine stewards will guide you, to suit your nose and palate, creating personalized pairings with one of Matteo’s delectable epicurean creations. Salute!

Bravo!

Executive Chef Perry Bateman Mama’s Fish House 2016 Friend of Agriculture Award recipient Presented by Maui County Farm Bureau in partnership with Maui Nö Ka ‘Oi magazine at the annual ‘Aipono Awards Gala

We salute past recipients:

Peter Merriman, Hula Grill Kä‘aanapali 2007 James McDonald, Pacific‘O and I’O 2008 Peter Merriman, Merriman’s Kapalua 2009 Jenna Haugaard, Flatbread Company 2010 Justin Pardo, Market Fresh Bistro 2011 Tylun Pang, Kö, The Fairmont Kea Lani 2012 Scott McGill, TS Restaurants 2013 Chris Schobel, Hula Grill 2013 Eric Faivre, Grand Wailea 2014 Francois Milliet, Kä‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas 2015

MAUI COUNTY

Eating & Drinking MauiMagazine.net

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calendar

LOOKING FOR MORE? VISIT MAUIMAGAZINE.NET/MAUI-EVENTS

Clockwise from left: Twain Meets Tita, May 5 | Maui Classical Music Festival, May 6–13 | Young Creatives: Neighborhood Places, May 2–19 | Kawehi, May 6

May MAY

ONGOING

Maui Music Series: Sunset Sessions Maui Brewing Company Levi Poasa performs live on the lānai on Tuesdays, 5–8 p.m. 605 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei; 213-3002; MauiBrewingCo.com

ONGOING

COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS AND CULTURAL CENTER; TOP MIDDLE: COURTESY OF MAUI CLASSICAL MUSIC FESTIVAL

Environmental Volunteer Days Waihe‘e Coastal Dunes & Wetlands Refuge Join the Hawaiian Islands Land Trust and get your hands dirty for a good cause—managing invasive species and propagating native plants. Fridays, 8 a.m.–noon. 244-LAND (5263); Volunteer@Hilt.org

ONGOING

Mulligan’s Magic Show Mulligans on the Blue Appearing every Tuesday: Brenton Keith creates tableside magic for all ages. 6:30–8 p.m. 100 Kuakahi St., Wailea; 874-1131; MulligansOnTheBlue.com

ONGOING

Howard Ahia & Guest Hard Rock Cafe Enjoy classic rock with a Hawaiian ﬂair every Wednesday. 8–11 p.m. 900 Front St., Lahaina; 667-7400; HardRock.com/Maui

THROUGH MAY 20

Spring Show Viewpoints Gallery Chelsea Bryce, Michael Clements and other artists from the Viewpoints ‘ohana depict the beauty of the Islands in oils and pastels. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; ViewpointsGalleryMaui.com

FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES Each week, a different Maui town hosts music, artists’ demos, children’s activities and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m. It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike. Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com

THROUGH JUNE 5

Pam Neswald & John O’Leary Old Lahaina Courthouse Lahaina Arts Society presents mixed-media works by Pam Neswald in the Old Jail Gallery; and Ocean Obsession, photography by John O’Leary, in the Banyan Tree Gallery. 9 a.m.–5 p.m. 648 Wharf St., Lahaina; 661-0111; LahainaArts.com

Mana: Contemporary Topics McCoy Studio Theater, MACC We often use the word mana, but do we really know what it means? Is it power? Spirit? Life force? Hōkūlani Holt moderates as community experts discuss mana and what it might mean to you. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Cazimero Lei Day Concert Castle Theater, MACC Beloved entertainer Robert Cazimero presents contemporary Hawaiian music and hula. Preshow festivities include crafters and entertainment in the courtyard. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

1, 6-8

Inherit the Wind Historic ‘Īao Theater Based on the famous Scopes trial of the 1920s, this courtroom drama of science vs. creationism has uncanny relevance today. Friday & Saturday 7:30 p.m.; Sundays 3 p.m. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 2426969; MauiOnStage.com

1, 29-30

JUNE 45; JULY 23

Fine Art Fair Banyan Tree Park Browse paintings, ceramics, glass, jewelry, photography and more under Lahaina’s historic banyan tree,

May 6, June 3 May 13, June 10 May 20, June 17 May 27, June 24

First Friday Wailuku Second Friday Lahaina Third Friday Makawao Fourth Friday Kīhei

next to the Old Lahaina Courthouse. Sponsored by Lahaina Arts Society. 9 a.m.–5 p.m. 648 Wharf St., Lahaina; 661-0111; LahainaArts.com

2-19

Young Creatives: Neighborhood Places Schaefer International Gallery, MACC Youngsters from kindergarten through high school explore the theme of neighborhood through art. The playful gallery design will lead viewers on a tour of our island through the eyes of our keiki. Tuesday–Sunday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

Twain Meets Tita McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Mark Twain arrived in Hawai‘i 150 years ago, and began penning Letters from the Sandwich Isles. Imagine how a modern-day tita might have enhanced his writing! McAvoy Layne (as Twain) and Kathy Collins (as Tita) create an evening of wit and wisdom. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Kawehi McCoy Studio Theater, MACC This Hawai‘i-born artist is known for live shows as a “one-woman band.” Her songs have been featured in Hufﬁngton Post, Elle, Esquire, Spin and more. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

6, 9, 11, 13

Maui Classical Music Festival This chamber-music series takes place across the island: May 6, Makawao Union Church; May 9, Keawala‘i Congregational Church, Mākena; May 11, Wananalua Congregational Church, Hāna; and May 13 at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center. 7 p.m. 8782312; MauiClassicalMusicFestival.org.

Model Planes Maui RC Modelers demonstrate radio-controlled ﬂight for the public from 8 a.m. to noon most Saturdays behind the drag strip at Maui Raceway Park in Kīhei. For details, contact Steve Groff at 357-0251 or StephenGroff@Hawaii.rr.com.

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Above: Maui Matsuri, May 7

Top right: The Rat & The Octopus, June 5–August 4 | Bottom right: Thunder from Down Under, June 8

Seabury Hall Craft Fair This Mother’s Day weekend tradition is one of the most anticipated local craft fairs of the year, with arts, crafts, rummage and plant sales, silent auction, music, food, kids’ activities and more. 9 a.m.–4 p.m. 480 Olinda Road, Makawao; SeaburyHall.org.

Bluesmiths Paddle Imua Paddlers race 10 miles of open ocean from Māliko Gulch to the Hawaiian Canoe Club in this fundraiser for Camp Imua. Post-race, athletes take special-needs keiki on the water for ocean activities. Starting at 1 p.m., Imua’s Ohana Festival features food, entertainment, and kid-friendly activities. Hoaloha Park, Kahului; 244-7467; PaddleImua.com

Maui Matsuri UH–Maui College Japanese and Okinawan culture shine at this festival featuring exhibits, food and craft booths, kimono fashions, taiko drumming, children’s activities, contests and obon dancing. 2–9 p.m. 310 Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului; MauiMatsuri.com.

Shane Koyczan Historic ‘Īao Theater Internationally recognized author and spoken-word artist Shane Koyczan performs.7:30 p.m. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-6969; MauiOnstage.com

Talk Story on the Land: Waihe‘e Moonlight Scott Fisher of Hawaiian Islands Land Trust leads a nighttime exploration of 277-acre Waihe‘e Refuge. 6:30–9:30 p.m. Space is limited. 244-LAND (5263); Info@Hilt.org

Surfrider Maui Beach Cleanup Honolua Bay, Kapalua Join Surfrider Maui and other community groups to keep our beaches clean. No reservations required. Participants receive lunch and refreshments courtesy of local restaurants. Supplies provided; just bring a hat and sunscreen. 9 a.m.–12 noon. Maui.Surf rider.org

& JUNE 5, 20

Blue‘Aina Reef Cleanup Lahaina Harbor Help Trilogy Excursions clean up the near-shore reef and raise funds for Maui nonprofits. 9 a.m.–1 p.m. Check-in 8:30 a.m. at the loading dock. 675 Wharf St., Lahaina; SailTrilogy.com/HelpMaui

27-28

Barrio Fiesta War Memorial Soccer Field Discover Filipino culture during this annual celebration. Friday 5–10 p.m.; Saturday 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Kanaloa & Ka‘ahumanu Aves., Kahului; 8777880; BinhiAtAni.org

JUNE

2-4

Ka Hula Piko Festival Lanikeha Community Center Learn about Hawaiian culture through lectures, visits to cultural sites and a celebration with food, crafts and entertainment. Ho‘olehua, Moloka‘i; KaHula Piko.com

3-5

Visitor Industry Charity Walk Take a step in the right direction during Maui Hotel & Lodging Association’s biggest annual fundraiser. The 5K course winds through Kahului, beginning and ending at the War Memorial soccer field. 7 a.m. War Memorial Complex, Kanaloa & Ka‘ahumanu Aves., Kahului; MauiHLA.org

Maui Brewers Festival A&B Ampitheater/Yokouchi Pavilion, MACC The 21-and-older crowd is invited to enjoy craft beers from Hawai‘i and beyond, appetizers by local tastemakers, and live entertainment. 3:30 p.m. (VIP pack-

Wa‘a Kiakahi Kā‘anapali Beach The ancient Hawaiian art of outrigger-canoe sailing comes to life during this free event. Festivities include sailing-canoe rides, talks with Hawaiian Sailing Canoe Association crewmembers, and Hawaiian welcoming and closing ceremonies. HSCA.info Taiko Festival Concert MACC Maui’s Zenshin Daiko presents its annual concert of Japanese drumming. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

COURTESY OF THE MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER; COURTESY OF MAUI MATSURI

MAPA’s Spring Extravaganza Castle Theater, MACC On Saturday, dancers of all ages from Maui Academy of Performing Arts strut their stuff in hip-hop, jazz and tap at 1 p.m. At 7:30, the dance concert Moves features original choreography and professional dance company Ampersand. Sunday brings ballet recitals of Sleeping Beauty at 1 & 5 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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7-8

age includes 2 p.m. admission, rare-beer samples, and more.) A benefit for the MACC. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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JUNE

HIGHLIGHTS

Hui No‘eau presents “Art with Aloha” featuring Visiting Artists

Gordon ‘Umialiloalahanauokalakaua Kai & Janice Leinaala Noweo Kai

‘AIPONO WINE DINNER Sale Pepe Pizzeria e Cucina Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants leads an exploration of the indigenous grapes and classic recipes of southern Italy, with a special menu by Chef Michele Di Bari. A portion of sales benefits Maui Culinary Academy. $125 per person. Reception at 6 p.m., dinner at 6:30 p.m. 878 Front St., Lahaina. Reservations: 667-7667

Free “Talk Story” & Demonstration

Pe‘ahi Lauhala Workshop

Makau Workshop

Friday, July 15th 11:00 am - 3:00 pm

Saturday, July 16 9:00 am - 1:00 pm

Sunday, July 17 9:00 am - 3:00 pm

Learn about tools, weapons, and Learn to weave a lauhala fan. lauhala weaving from Native Pre-registration required. Hawaiian artists.

Learn to make a single piece fishhook out of bone. Pre-registration required.

Contact Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center for more information and to register today! 808-572-6560 ∙ huinoeau.com ∙ 2841 Baldwin Avenue, Makawao, HI 96768

Mahalo to Hawai‘i Tourism Authority and the County of Maui for their support of this program.

9-12

KAPALUA WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua Kapalua uncorks three days of wine tastings, cuisine by award-winning chefs, and seminars by renowned winemakers. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi hosts Sunday’s Seafood Festival. For schedule, visit KapaluaWineAndFoodFestival.com

ne 4

Kahakuloa Coast Half-Marathon & Relay The course leads runners along some of Maui’s most dramatic coastlines. http://goo.gl/ZTrl40

4-5

Maui Jim OceanFest Kā‘anapali Beach Ironman pro Jackson Maynard, SUP champion Travis Grant, and other top ocean athletes from around the world compete in swimming, standup paddling, surfski, and elite mixed events, vying for a $40,000 prize purse. MauiJimOceanFest.com

SECOND FROM TOP: SEAN M. HOWER

–AUGUST 4

The Rat & the Octopus Schaefer International Gallery, MACC Big Island-based art collective AGGROculture explores this Polynesian myth through sculpture, painting, video, storytelling, costume and viewer participation. Tuesday–Sunday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

you

BELIEVE PERFORMANCE, VALUES, ETHICS, TRANSPARENCY, UNBIASED INDEPENDENT ADVICE, and RESPONSIBLE MONEY MANAGEMENT matter,

consider as your partner in managing your portfolio and ﬁnancial strategy.

If you would like to hear FIM Group’s strategy, schedule a time to sit down and discuss your future.

Alice McDermott, CFP®, Senior Planner Barry Hyman, MBA, Hawaii Branch Manager Linda Barcheski, Client Services

THROUGH JULY 4

Lahaina Arts Society Exhibits Old Lahaina Courthouse Lahaina Arts Society presents acrylic and oil paintings by Danny Braddix in the Old Jail Gallery. In the Banyan Tree Gallery, see works by Maui master artists in the Society’s Mahalo Show. 9 a.m.–5 p.m. 648 Wharf St., Lahaina; 661-0111; LahainaArts.com

444 Hana Highway, Suite D, Kahului, Hawaii 96732 808 871 1006 | Toll-free 888 243 8220 fimg-hawaii@fimg.net | www.fimg.net

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » May–Jun 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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JUNE

HIGHLIGHTS

15-19

Maui Film Festival Wailea Resort & MACC Movie buffs and Hollywood glitterati converge at this favorite summertime festival that includes filmmakers’ panels, culinary events and extravagant parties. MauiFilmFestival.com

Thunder from Down Under Castle Theater, MACC The perfect girls’ night Outback. Australia’s answer to the Chippendales show off chiseled bods, seductive dances, cheeky humor and boy-next-door charm. Must be 18 or older. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Talk Story on the Land: Merwin Palm Forest Tour one of Earth’s most extensive palm collections, created by Poet Laureate Emeritus W.S. Merwin. 9 a.m.– noon. Space is limited. 244-5263; Info@Hilt.org

14-19

Maui Photo Expedition Robert Caplin and Peter Lockley lead photography workshops, demos, edits and critiques with Maui as backdrop. Tuition includes five nights at the Four Seasons Resort Maui, a sunset sail and more. Info & reservations: MauiWorkshop.com

17-18

Bring It Home Adaptations Dance Theater presents a romp through the jungles of creativity, expression and self-discovery, with Alvin Ailey II dancer Nathaniel Hunt. Opening-night reception 6:30–10 p.m. Saturday performance at 7:30. Seabury Hall, 480 Olinda Rd., Makawao; AdaptationsDanceTheater.com

Surfrider Maui Beach Cleanup Ho‘okipa Beach Park See May 21 listing.

25 26

25th Annual Kī Hō‘alu Guitar Festival A&B Amphitheater/Yokouchi Pavilion, MACC Fun for the whole family, this free outdoor concert showcases an all-star lineup of Hawai‘i’s finest slackkey musicians. Bring low-backed chairs or blankets and relax on the lawn. 1–7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org OBON SCHEDULE Each weekend in summer, a different Buddhist temple on Maui invites everyone to share in this tradition of honoring the ancestors with dance, taiko drumming,

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COURTESY OF THE MAUI FILM FESTIVAL

MAMo Wearable Art Show Yokouchi Pavilion, MACC This popular runway show grew out of Maoli Arts Month, O‘ahu’s annual celebration of native Hawaiian art. Expect cutting-edge design, and traditional patterns and motifs translated for contemporary styles. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

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food and festivities. Call individual temples for details, or visit MauiMagazine.net/EverydayMaui for a complete schedule. Jun 4 Jun 11 Jun 17 Jun 18 Jul 2 Jul 8-9 Jul 15-16 Jul 22-23 Jul 29-30 Aug 5 Aug 12 Aug 27

Lahaina Shingon Mission Pu‘unēnē Nichiren Mission Wailuku Jodo Mission Wailuku Shingon Mission Lahaina Jodo Mission* Pā‘ia Mantokuji Mission Kahului Hongwanji Mission Makawao Hongwanji Mission Wailuku Hongwanji Mission Lahaina Hongwanji Mission Kahului Jodo Mission Kula Shofukuji Mission

661-0466 871-4831 244-0066 244-3800 661-4304 579-8051 871-4732 572-7229 244-0406 661-0640 871-4911 661-0466

ui a M

The Largest Selection of Oceanfront Vacation Condominiums Lahaina • Ka’anapali • Kahana • Napili • Kapalua

*This seaside temple stages Maui’s only lanternﬂoating ceremony.

RATES AS LOW AS $95/NIGHT JULY

1-3

Makawao Rodeo Saddle up for this annual Fourth of July tradition. Parade rolls through Makawao town July 2. Oskie Rice Arena, 80 Ohaoha Pl.; and Makawao Town

Email your event to Calendar@Maui Magazine.net, or submit it online at MauiMagazine.net/Maui-Events. Listings for MNKO’s July–August print edition must be received by May 13. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.

855-836-0619 www.westmauicondos.com • info@chasenrainbows.com

Maui N¯ o Ka ‘Oi » May–Jun 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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who’s who

L to R: Justin & Alexis Eaton, Livia & Duane Reddington | Randy Omel, Roxanne Scott | Bev & Peter Brill | Tom Beach, James Maher

JOSE MORALES

‘AIPONO WINE DINNER | Kō at Fairmont Kea Lani | February 12, 2016 | Benefit for UH–Maui Culinary Academy

L to R: Jill Mickelsen, Meagan Jones Gray | Clyde Sakamoto, Jami Burks | Olga von Ziegesar, Laurie Clark | Lauren Shoemaker, Mauricio Cantor | Ralph Lee Hopkins, Ann Cope

BRYAN BERKOWITZ

WHALE TALES SPONSOR DINNER | Valkirs Residence | February 13, 2016 | Benefit for Whale Trust Maui

L to R: Tamara Goodfellow, Deidre Tegarden | Tony Takitani, Ashley Leahey | Greg & Vena Bertie| Brenda & Rich Scholl | Maria Robinson, Lisa Paulson

JOSE MORALES

BOOK TRUST EXTRAVAGANZA | Makena Beach & Golf Resort | February 6, 2016 | Benefit for Book Trust

L to R: Peter & Victorine Merriman | Susan Bradford, Larry Feinberg | Gunnar Valkirs, Scott Fisher | Matt Beall, Elif Beall, Kathy Davey

LLEVELLYN LIGHTSEY, LIGHTSEA IMAGES

BUY BACK THE BEACH | Old Lāhaina Lū‘au | January 24, 2016 | Benefit for Hawaiian Islands Land Trust

Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at Facebook.com/MauiMagazine.

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LIVE MUSIC AND FOOD TASTINGS THE THIRD WEDNESDAY OF EACH MONTH, 6:30 TO 8PM

presented by

You are invited to shop, sample, and enjoy a special musical performance by local artists. Tasty menu samplings, mini-makeovers, entertainment and more—just for you. Free and open to the public. 4-hour event parking for $5—a portion of the proceeds beneﬁt select charities.

3750 Wailea Alanui Drive . Visit us online for monthly updates . theshopsatwailea.com . 808.891.6770 .

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LOOKING BACK

The Readers Also Digest BY RITA GOLDMAN

From top: 2007 Chef of the Year Ivan Pahk, Nov/Dec cover. A cool little customer enjoys Ululani’s shave ice, Jul/Aug 2010. Chefs Padovani, Strehl, Leterc and Wong, Mānele Bay Hotel. Shep Gordon and Chef Vergé, Winter ’96/’97. Lobster foam tops an intermezzo in “Kitchen Chemistry,” Sep/ Oct 2008. Chef Anton Haines helms our Holiday Test Kitchen, Nov/Dec 2013.

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BOTTOM RIGHT: JASON MOORE

Food has been a part of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi since our premiere issue rolled off the presses in Summer 1996. That first issue even managed to score four of the legendary founders of Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine: Chefs Philippe Padovani, Gary Strehl, Eric Leterc and Alan Wong. What they were doing with that bikini-clad manikin is another story. . . . Three months later, we featured one of Maui’s more illustrious residents, Shep Gordon, a talent manager and producer whose client list has ranged from Alice Cooper to Groucho Marx. But whom did we show standing proudly alongside Shep? Chef Roger Vergé. Their friendship inspired Gordon to create Grand Chefs on Tour, bringing food celebs like Alice Waters and Emeril Lagasse to Maui. As our own culinary professionals have expanded their horizons, we’ve been privileged to come along for the ride—once literally, sending dining editor Becky Speere out before dawn on a boat that catches dinner for Mama’s Fish House. We applauded when Chef Tylun Pang transformed Kō restaurant into a paean to Hawai‘i’s multicultural plantation past . . . insinuated ourselves into the kitchen of a gourmet chocolatier (honest, only for the sake of the story!) . . . and let our minds boggle at Chef Jojo Vasquez’s experiments with molecular gastronomy—lobster foam, popping candies and all. And while we’ve indulged in the opulent, we’ve also celebrated what is quintessentially Maui: from Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, to T. Komoda’s Store & Bakery, to ten places to satisfy your ‘ōpū for under ten bucks. In 2011, we got the delicious idea to turn our annual Holiday Test Kitchen into cooking with the pros, inviting top Maui chefs into island kitchens to show us how it’s done—and share their recipes. They’ve always said yes. It’s been an honor, a pleasure, and a belt-buster to share this culinary journey with you. In exchange, two favors, please: Go explore Maui’s diverse dining scene; enjoy an old favorite and discover a new. Then share what you’ve learned.

MauiMagazine.net

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2712_M

Whalers Village (808) 661-6806

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MAUI Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea 808.874.5800 OAHU The Kahala Hotel & Resort 路 Halekulani HAWAII Mauna Lani Bay Hotel Four Seasons Resort at Hualalai Mauna Kea Beach Hotel

www.hildgund.com

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