Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine Jul-Aug 2017

IT’S SUMMER! JUST COAST!

Best Beaches

for the kid in you!

Picnic with a Chef

Transforming a tiny condo

Hawaiian Wisdom

Learning from elders—even when they’re not in human form

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Features 31 » Adventure

BEACHES FOR THE AGES Get the most of the coast with our age-appropriate picks for kids from toddler to teen. Story by Sara Smith

40 » Hawaiian Soul

WHO ARE NĀ KŪPUNA? Like the rest of us, Hawaiians mature, age and die. And there the similarity ends.

Story by Paul Wood

49 » Island Portrait

MAUI’S GRAMMY-WINNING KALANI PE‘A Meet the humble, ebullient singer whose E Walea also scored a Nā Hōkū Award for Contemporary Album of the Year. Story by Kathy Collins

52 » Artists on Location

MATRILINEAGE Betty Hay Freeland and daughter Denby FreelandCole share a passion for art and their Hawaiian heritage.

Story by Paul Wood

60 » Mālama ‘Āina

BEACH BEAUTIES Enjoying Hawaiian flora doesn’t require a foray into the mountains. These blooms love the beach as much as we do. Story by Shannon Wianecki

62 » At Home

About Our Cover

This South Maui sunset so captivated Andrew Shoemaker that he photographed the scene, then took another picture, this time with his fiancée on the tree. The photo became their “save the date” wedding announcement.

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It’s not soccer. This is FootGolf, played at the Kā‘anapali Golf Courses, and it’s a total kick. If the aim of your game is fun, this issue has you covered—whether your favorite playground is on land or sea.

COURTESY OF KĀ‘ANAPALI GOLF COURSES

A PERFECT FIT Good things do come in small packages—with planning and care. Story by Sarah Ruppenthal

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Departments

14 » Contributors

It takes a lot of talents to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

16 » Publisher’s Note

By Diane Haynes Woodburn

18 » Talk Story

Fresh off the coconut wireless ~ By Kyle Ellison, Heidi Pool & Shannon Wianecki

26 » Great Finds

SHORE THINGS Land these for your day at the beach.

Compiled by Conn Brattain

106 » Calendar

What’s happening where, when, and with whom

110 » Who’s Who

Seen making the scene on Maui

114 » A Perfect Day on Maui

Central Attractions Follow your local guide and make the most of Maui. Story by Lehia Apana

DINING 76 » Dining Feature

LA DOLCE VITA A Maui beach picnic goes Italian.

Story by Becky Speere

86 » Dining Highlights

FAMILY-FRIENDLY RESTAURANTS Story by Becky Speere

90 » Becky’s Backyard

MMMMANGOES Story by Becky Speere

94 » Dining Guide

A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island

THIS ISSUE ONLINE

Web-exclusive content at MauiMagazine.net (available starting in July) RECORD YEAR 2017 must be Kalani Pe‘a’s year. By May, the Maui singer had won both a Grammy, and Nā Hōkū’s Contemporary Album of the Year.

Hear a track from that album at MauiMagazine.net/kalani-pea.

CENTRAL INTELLIGENCE Discover Wailuku’s hidden treasures with managing editor Lehia Apana as your guide. See the video at MauiMagazine.net/wailuku-cruising.

It doesn’t require lots of legwork to see how the ae‘o, the Hawaiian black-necked stilt, got its name. See story on page 24.

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Twitter.com/MauiMag Instagram.com/MauiMag

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PASTA PERFECT Jada DiBari’s parents are the chefs behind awardwinning Sale Pepe—but it’s Grandma who knows how to pasta. See a clip of Jada cooking with her nonna at MauiMagazine.net/maui-beach-picnic.

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What does ‘ohana mean to you?

PUBLISHER Diane Haynes Woodburn

A recent illness temporarily reduced my independence, but boy, did it expand my definition of family. It’s the brother I share DNA with, of course, but also the friends and colleagues who jumped in to help, humbling me with their kindness and concern.

Thanks, you guys.

—Rita Goldman ‘Ohana includes everyone and everything I feel aloha for: family and friends, plants, animals, and natural phenomena such as the rainbows I see during my daily beach walks. We are all connected.—Shannon Wianecki

SENIOR EDITOR Rita Goldman MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana DINING EDITOR Becky Speere ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER John Giordani STYLE EDITOR Conn Brattain To me, ‘ohana are the family, friends and loved ones you let into the innermost circle of your heart.—Mike Neubauer ‘Ohana are my blood relatives and my closest friends. It is a true honor for me to be considered ‘ohana by friends.

—Becky Speere

In practical use, ‘ohana refers not only to those who share a bloodline, but also extended family members or friends who share a deep sense of mutual caring—those with whom we share a sense of obligation and a responsibility to nurture.—Tony Novak-Clifford

WEBSITE MANAGER Adelle Lennox ASSISTANT DESIGNER Shelby Lynch EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Mieko Horikoshi CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Kathy Collins, Kyle Ellison, Heidi Pool, Sarah Ruppenthal, Sara Smith, Shannon Wianecki, Paul Wood CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Two or more people bonded by aloha.—Kathy Collins ‘Ohana is kin. It’s your schizophrenic cousin, your ne’er-do-well nephew, your uncle’s stepdaughter who’s always trying to sell you Mary Kay products. My father used to quote Robert Frost: “Home is the place where, when you have to go there, they have to take you in.”—Paul Wood

There’s a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.

Erik Aeder, Lehia Apana, Randy Bartlett, Conn Brattain, Judy Edwards, Kyle Ellison, John Giordani, Mieko Horikoshi, Mike Neubauer, Tony Novak-Clifford, Zach Pezzillo, Andrew Shoemaker, Ryan Siphers, Becky Speere, Tori Speere, Forest & Kim Starr, Jenna Szerlag CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION Your ‘ohana is your tribe, whether that’s family, a close-knit group of friends, even a regular gathering of people who share your similar interests.—Kyle Ellison

Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. ADVERTISING SALES 808-242-8331 GROUP PUBLISHER Catherine Westerberg SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Barbara Geary SALES ASSISTANT Kamehana Lee BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Michael Haynes CONTROLLER & OFFICE MANAGER

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Ethical, Responsible, Independent Financial Planning and Investment Management Alice McDermott, CFP®, Senior Planner

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publisher’s note Written in Stone “I understand,” I hear my husband say to someone on the phone. “The important thing is that we do nothing to awaken the pōhaku [rocks].” Awaken rocks?

Jamie is helping our friend Kimokeo Kapahulehua arrange volunteers to clear and clean Lo‘alo‘a Heiau, a Hawaiian temple that time, neglect, and the elements have overtaken. The list of necessities includes chainsaws, weed whackers, machetes, sickles, and a crew of at least thirty.

Oh, no, I think to myself, I’m not getting roped into this . . . he’ll never get enough volunteers.”

What changes my mind is learning that Patrick V. Kirch will be there. Dr. Kirch is one of the world’s most respected archeologists, an expert on Polynesia. If he’s willing to have traveled from the mainland to direct this project—then I want to be there too.

The day arrives, and Jamie loads the truck with tools, work gloves, sunscreen and lunch for twenty to fifty workers—we have no idea how many will actually show up. I climb into the cab next to Jamie, and off we go. As we head south and east around the mountain, the vegetation grows sparser. Plains of black lava reach out to a stark and jagged coastline. The road turns from paved to patch, and then to gravel. Finally, we reach Kaupō Store—just as the clouds spill a blessing of rain on the dozen or more volunteers, including Kaupō Ranch representatives waiting to meet us. A short drive into the ranchland, and we arrive at Lo‘alo‘a Heiau.

“Where is it?” I ask, as I pull on my raincoat. The pleasant sprinkle has gathered force.

“There.” Jamie points to a rubble of rocks and weeds, brush and trees, and an ill-defined rise of more rocks further on. A small sign marks the fenced entrance, the only evidence that something significant lies beyond. We stop to wait for Kahu Lyons Naone. Among kahu’s meanings are “guardian,” “keeper,” and “preacher,” and in all those capacities, Naone has come to ensure that proper protocol is observed. He asks the gods’ permission for us to enter, to mālama (take care of ) the land. We are not to move the stones.

Now it’s Dr. Kirch’s turn. He tells us that Kaupō once comprised the greatest continuous dry-land agricultural area in all the Hawaiian Islands. Its sweet potatoes and dry-land taro fed perhaps 10,000 people. In the early 1700s, King Kekaulike made Kaupō a royal seat and directed construction of Lo‘alo‘a Heiau, one of the largest war temples in the archipelago, and likely used for human sacrifice.

Mindful of what this heiau once represented (and being a rather senior member of the crew), I find a hand sickle and gingerly weed the easier areas of strewn rock—careful not to move any. In the distance, I hear chainsaws growling and weed whackers whirring as Jamie and other men, our sons among them, cut through the jungle of trees and brush engulfing the heiau. More and more people arriving, each eager to contribute to the larger endeavor.

By day’s end, Lo‘alo‘a stands revealed. Dr. Kirch leads us on a tour, carefully climbing to the top of the site, more than 7 meters high and 105 meters long. This spot, he tells us, precisely marks the rising position of the star cluster Pleiades, as well as the direction of the June solstice sunrise. We walk lightly in the footsteps of ancients with quiet respect for the spirit of this place. “If these rocks could talk,” one might say . . . and perhaps they do.

The view is breathtaking. But I am as moved by the people—more than half a hundred— who have made today possible. We are from all different backgrounds and walks of life. Yet all of us, exhausted and soaked to the bone, understand that in helping to preserve this site for future generations, we have shared something deeply meaningful and satisfying. We are ‘ohana.

A hui hou,

Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

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TOP: NINA KUNA; BOTTOM: PATRICK KIRCH

This issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi is dedicated to ‘ohana—the Hawaiian word that translates as “family,” but encompasses so much more. ‘Ohana is not just the people we are related to, but those who come into our lives and make a difference.

talk story Fresh off the coconut wireless

Story & Photography by Kyle Ellison

Hāna Courthouse When I’m asked whether I’ll need a public defender, I’m standing in the shade of a plumeria tree, surrounded by clusters of flowers.

The tree, it seems, is the unofficial public defender’s office outside of the Hāna Courthouse. The prosecution is across the lawn, gathered by the red and green ti plants.

Thankfully, I’m just here to observe the proceedings at the one-room wooden courthouse, which was built in 1871 on a hill overlooking Hāna Bay. Court is held the first Tuesday of each month, and of all Hawai‘i’s early courthouses that are listed as historic landmarks, Hāna’s is the only one that’s still in regular use.

Rather than making East Maui residents drive fifty-four miles (and twoand-a-half hours) to settle minor traffic violations at the County courthouse in Wailuku, a judge, two lawyers, two sheriffs, a bailiff and two other courtroom staff take the twenty-minute, chartered flight from Kahului Airport to Hāna.

When the courthouse was built, the trip would Continued on page 20

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Top: Hāna’s no-frills jail is as low-key as the town itself. Above: The one-room courthouse seems little changed since its construction in the 1800s.

have taken at least a full day, and you would have had to travel by foot, horseback, canoe, or (twenty or so years later) by steamship. Back then, Hawai‘i was still an independent kingdom; today the Hāna Courthouse gives you the sense that you’re experiencing a living museum where thousands of people, over nearly fifteen decades, have had their brush with the law.

Glass-bottle lanterns hang from the ceiling, but none of them are in use. Sunlight streams through open windows that have peeling paint and no screens. A gentle tradewind makes AC unnecessary, and carries the rhythmic sound of waves that lap at Hāna Bay. Leaves twist up between slats in the deck, a rock holds open the door,

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and the clerk collecting the fines—paid in cash—uses a pen and paper. The building itself hearkens back to the 1800s; its simple, single-walled construction was a popular nineteenth-century style.

Because the cases tried at the courthouse are usually for minor offenses, most are settled with a slap on the wrist, rather than wrists in handcuffs. A robe hangs in the corner, but the judge elects not to wear it, and of the ten people appearing before her, seven are wearing slippers and board shorts, and none are in collared shirts.

It almost feels like a social affair for this small, East Maui town, where everyone already knows everyone’s business—just now it’s being made public.

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Day in court (from left): Deputy Public Defender Jasmine King, Supervising Court Clerk Karen Hemans, Deputy Prosecuting Attorney Joshua Kent, Deputy Sheriff Geoffrey Hicks, District Court Judge Adrianne Heely, District Court Clerk Wailani Kikukawa, Deputy Sheriff Charles Vierra, and Bailiff Sonya Loio gather in town one Tuesday a month.

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When a young man shows the insurance card he’d forgotten to keep in his car, a woman scolds him with a playful slap, despite the fact she’s up next. One man needs to pay $57, which he doles from his camouflaged wallet; and the judge lets another man off the hook after determining his headlight’s been fixed.

Even the old wooden jailhouse out back is shaded by plumeria and palms, and as Judge Adrianne Heely recounts to me, after court has adjourned, a deputy prosecutor once mentioned that “back in Wisconsin, this is exactly what I imagined Hawai‘i courts to be like.”

You can tour the courthouse as part of a visit to the neighboring Hāna Cultural Center, which is open Wednesday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.—though no trials are held on those days. The cultural center also displays historic photos and ancient Hawaiian artifacts, as well as a replica of a pre-contact compound, all right next to the courthouse.

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2017

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5/9/17 8:26 AM

TALK STORY day in the life

One Good (Re)turn Story by Heidi Pool | Photo by Ryan Siphers

NAME DJ Metzler TITLE founder, Kind Kids Recycling Club COOL AND COLLECTED Last September, thirteenyear-old DJ Metzler of Makawao hatched an idea.

“I decided to start a kids’ club where members would collect redeemable beverage containers from friends and neighbors, and take them to the recycling center.” The kids could keep half the proceeds, and the other half “would go into a ‘pay it forward’ envelope and be used to perform good deeds for our community.” With the help of dad Dustin, DJ launched Kind Kids Recycling Club, which now boasts 28 members and a Facebook page. DJ’s goal is 200 members by the end of 2018.

KIDS RULE The club operates on the honor system: members take the Kind Kids Pledge not to charge supporters for picking up recyclables, and to put half the redemption money into a pay-it-forward envelope. Once a member completes three recycling runs and carries out three kind deeds, DJ presents him or her with a teal-and-white club T-shirt, purchased with recycling proceeds. “When a club member earns their shirt, they often are so excited they jump up and down,” DJ says.

PICK THE KIND YOU LIKE Club members decide for themselves how to use their pay-it-forward money. DJ says seven-year-old Peyton purchased Thanksgiving meals last November for two needy families, and twelve-year-old Emily, a cat lover, paid adoption fees for five felines at the Maui Humane Society. DJ himself has racked up numerous acts of kindness. One of his favorites was paying for a senior citizen’s medication at Longs Drugs. “I bought a $20 gift card, gave it to the pharmacy clerk, and asked her to apply it towards the next elderly customer’s prescriptions. Helping others makes my day. I’ve been bitten by the ‘kindness bug.’”

WANNA BET? Every other Saturday morning, DJ dons his Kind Kids T-shirt, grabs his work gloves and a supply of trash bags, and with dad Dustin at the wheel of their Honda Civic, visits his supporters to gather recyclable items. En route to the redemption center, DJ and Dustin wager on how much the load will net. “Our car holds about $80’s worth of recyclables,” DJ says. “We always come within a few dollars, and whichever of us guesses closest gets treated to a soda afterwards.”

To learn more about Kind Kids Recycling Club, or to become a member or supporter, visit their Facebook page or email KindKids Recycling@gmail.com.

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2017

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TALK STORY in season

Wetland Chic

Story by Shannon Wianecki Photo by Zach Pezzillo

Hānau ke kioea ka makua Puka kana keiki he kukuluae‘o, lele Born was the curlew, the parent Out came its child, a stilt, and flew From the Hawaiian creation chant, Kumulipo, as translated

by Martha Beckwith

Summer is the season to look for an exceptionally photogenic shorebird: ae‘o, the Hawaiian black-necked stilt. This sleek, tuxedoed bird stalks coastal wetlands atop bright pink stilts—its namesake in both English and Hawaiian. (The word ae‘o also refers to wooden stilts that children play with, or a long-legged person.)

Dressed in formal feathers, ae‘o forage for crustaceans and small fish at the edge of tidal ponds, taro patches, and reservoirs.

The lanky birds tend nests near the water from April to August. If they catch wind of an intruder, they rise into the air, circling and squawking. This shrill siren is a clue to tread lightly. While you can’t miss the noisy birds, you might not see their camouflaged eggs underfoot. Cradled within a nest of reeds and roots, the eggs look remarkably like stones—brown with black mottling. And when the chicks hatch, they have the same camo coloring.

Stilt chicks—the gift of summer—are irresistibly adorable.

Balancing on extra-long legs, the wobbly fluffballs peer down at

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their own reflections before trying to pluck fish from the shallows.

As the birds mature, you can determine their sex and age with a quick glance through a pair of binoculars. Adult females have brownish back feathers, whereas males’ back feathers are solid black. Juvenile stilts have beige legs—they don’t turn disco pink until after puberty.

The ae‘o is one of five subspecies of black-necked stilt. Eons ago, a flock found its way to the Hawaiian Islands, became isolated from others of its kind, and evolved into a distinct subspecies. Today, the birds are on the endangered species list, threatened by wetland development and predation by feral cats and mongooses. Maui and O‘ahu account for 60 to 80 percent of the world’s ae‘o population. Fewer than 2,000 Hawaiian stilts exist, but these rare birds can be easily spotted at Kanahā Pond in Kahului and Keālia Pond in Mā‘alaea. Don’t get too close, or they’ll sound the alarm.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2017

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GREAT FINDS

SHORE THINGS

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1: S’WELL; 2: POI DOG/MAUI HUMANE SOCIETY; 3: MAUI WOODYS; 4, 5 CONN BRATTAIN; 6: BOHOME

Water you wading for? Go get these sundries for your day in the sun! COMPILED BY CONN BRATTAIN

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YIPPEE! The only thing better than a day at the beach is a beach day with a four-legged friend. The Maui Humane Society invites visitors and residents alike to take a “beach buddy” out for a day of fun any Wednesday or Friday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. The program is free, but donations are welcome, and improve the lives of Maui’s unadopted pets. Availability is limited, so sign up early to reserve your furry friend and a Beach Buddies pack containing all the supplies your pooch will need for a day at the beach. Call 808-877-3680, ext. 224, or visit MauiHumaneSociety.org. 1350 Mehameha Loop, Pu‘unēnē.

Located at Maui Ocean Center Open Daily 9am-5pm mauioceancenter.com 808.270.7061 Valid only at the time of purchase, while supplies last. May not be combined with any other offers, discounts or coupons.

One gift per person per day.

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SCREEN, PLAY Jenna Davis makes her reef-friendly Raw Love sunscreen with 100% natural minerals and plant-based, “farm to face” ingredients. 35 SPF assures protection, and the active ingredient, 23% zinc oxide, is suitable for any age. Available in .6oz./$7, 2.6oz./$18, and 4oz./$28 at POME Maui, 151 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 808-276-4641; and RawLoveSunscreen.com

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TOTE SWEET Apolis + Montage’s reusable Market Bag is handcrafted from 100% golden jute burlap and features a waterproof lining and vegetable-tanned leather straps reinforced with antique nickel rivets. At 13”x18”x8”, it’s the ideal tote for trips to the beach or farmer’s market. $68, exclusively at Mahana Market at Montage Kapalua Bay’s Resort Lobby, One Bay Dr., Kapalua, 808-662-6600; MontageShops.com/ collections/kapalua-bay

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ALL AROUND FUN Bohome’s Ziggy throw is the perfect beach blanket.

You’ll never have to rotate your towel again with this well-rounded design made from 100% printed cotton canvas. It’s approximately 5’ in diameter and $129 at Nuage Bleu, 76 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-9792; NuageBleu.com

HUI NO‘EAU VISUAL ARTS CENTER

Celebrating 100 Years of Kaluanui in 2017!

- 10 x 10 Exhibition in gallery through July 22 - Centennial Festival & Family Day: July 22 / 10am - 2pm - Hui Youth Art Exhibition in gallery August 4 - 24 Open Daily 9am - 4pm • FREE Admission

2841 Baldwin Ave. Makawao, HI 96768 • 808-572-6560 •huinoeau.com Hui No‘eauʼs exhibition program is made possible with support from the Hawai‘i Tourism Authority Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2017

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STUDIO22K Sherri Dhyan and the goldsmiths at Studio22k are dedicated to the traditions and style of high-karat gold jewelry inspired by Mesopotamia and ancient African cultures. Our goldsmiths skillfully recreate techniques of these civilizations, such as granulation, filigree, repoussé/ chasing and hand forging. 161B Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia | 808-579-8167 | Studio22k.com

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EAT = Hungry for SUCCESS PRAY = Obtaining your DREAMS MAUI = Experience MAUI Inspired by yogis, athletes, artists, musicians, dreamers and lovers of Maui, our collections encourage high-performance living in gratitude, generosity and happiness. Our mission is to inspire you to live your greatest life! Find us in Wailea at Andaz; in Kā‘anapali at Maui Weekends (Hyatt Regency) and Fashionista (Whalers Village). Apparel collection coming soon. EatPrayMaui.com 808-385-5829 | Instagram.com/ eat.pray.maui | Facebook.com/ EatPrayMaui MAUI RIPPERS This family-owned international surf company offers the highestquality women’s and men’s board shorts and apparel. Inspired by a lifetime on the water, and worn by watermen worldwide, these designs reflect today’s surf culture and are crafted to withstand the test of time. The complete collection is in Ha‘ikū Marketplace. Find select products at other retail stores islandwide. 810 Ha‘ikū Rd., #107, Ha‘ikū | 808-573-0402 | MauiRippers.com

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presents the

‘aipono wine dinner series The ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series brings you fine wines paired with superb cuisine at surprisingly reasonable prices. Proceeds benefit UH–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program.

To sign up for the ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series mailing list, visit MauiMagazine.net or call 808.242.8331.

An exquisite wine showcase created by Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants

DRINK | LEARN | EAT | SUPPORT The next wine dinner will be hosted by:

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Please join us for a unique culinary adventure as we explore Spanish wines from the classic regions of Rioja, Navarra, Toro, Calatayud, Cava/Penedés, Montsant, Rias Baixas, Valdeorras and Rueda. Our guest host, Victor Ordonez, of Grupo Jorge Ordonez, was the first importer to bring a bounty of indigenous varietals from Spain to the U.S. He will showcase his family’s wines with a tasting bar featuring regional selections from the best appellations of Spain.

For forty years, the Longhi’s family has owned and operated the restaurant begun by patriarch Bob Longhi, a man with a passion for exceptional dining. Led by Executive Chef Paul Goodwin and Sommelier/Manager Brandon Deatherage, Longhi’s Wailea will create an interactive dining experience in the Spanish tapas style.

beaches fOr THe Ages!

ADVENTURE

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Story by Sara Smith

Get the most of the coast with our age-appropriate picks for kids from toddler to teen.

L–R: RYAN SIPHERS (1-3); LEHIA APANA (4)

Once upon a time, there was a fair maiden who’d breeze off to the beach on a whim, bearing no more than a gauzy pareu and a good book. So effortless a task t’was, that choosing a sandy stretch to adorn was given nary a thought.

Yeah, well, after having two kids, those days are over.

As parents, planning a family beach day can get so exasperatingly detailed, I’ve nearly resorted to a spreadsheet; my husband to the survival-skills training

he took back in college. And once you gather all the gear (having kids does make you both a parent and a pack mule), there’s deciding where to go. Its wildly varied coastline makes Maui a sun-worshiper’s paradise, but the island’s beaches are not one-size-fits-all, and good thing. As your kids grow, their idea of an epic beach day is ever-changing. Nearly a decade into this mom thing, I have a few pearls of wisdom to share on that topic.

ŒŠšjNiP i

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Photo by John Giordani

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Under Three: A TidePooL’S fit For thee Maui’s north shore is famous for big-wave surfing and the whipping tradewinds that fuel an international windsurfing destination. Would you believe it’s also home to the island’s best-kept-secret baby beach? Kū‘au Cove, also known as Mama’s Beach because it fronts the idyllic Mama’s Fish House restaurant, is a sweet-as-can-be spot for your littles.

The tiny cove offers natural shelter from the prevailing wind, and the exposed reef fronting the coast blocks surf and swells.

The water here is the baby lagoon dreams are made of—shallow, sandy-bottomed and perfect for wading and splashing. Sorry, parents, there’s little for you here in the way of swimming or snorkeling. Of course, as sleep-deprived as you likely are at this stage, just be grateful for the respite of being able to lie on the warm sand and watch your keiki safely splash about without fear of them being dragged out to sea by a rogue wave, or clobbered by a boogie boarder. (See? I’m setting you up for success!)

When the tide is low, surrounding pools are left exposed,

ADVENTURE

providing inquisitive young minds the opportunity to peek into hidden habitats and explore for critters. Wondrous moments like these kindle a lifelong love of the ocean, sparking the familiarity and comfort that prepares kids for more adventurous beaches ahead.

While Kū‘au Cove is a public beach, Mama’s Fish House maintains it and shares a parking lot. Help yourself to a beachaccess parking stall that vigilant valets protect with designated blue cones. Ask for help if you need it, no tip required. The tiny beach is expertly kept (bring the camera; there will be plenty of photo ops), but generally quiet and sparsely used. Well-manicured trees provide generous patches of welcome shade.

NOTE: There are no public bathrooms or showers, but hey, you have to be home for naptime anyway, so this likely won’t be a problem.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Plan B: Kalepolepo Beach, a restored fishpond in Kīhei

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ADVENTURE

Ages 4-Ꞁ: Waterwomen & -meN-in-TRaining

Frolicking in the shore break is the perfect way for littles to begin their wave knowledge; the trick here is finding a beach that is safe, yet sufficiently fun. Often eager to exert their budding independence, this age group lives by a credo of “Let me do it myself.” They charge into situations like the big kids they see themselves as, which can be terrifying if combined with too rough an environment.

The subtle slope and thick, soft sand of Maluaka Beach in Mākena is always my top choice. There’s no steep dropoff, and the ocean delivers endless rollers that wash ashore soft and crumbly. Kids love the sensorial experience of getting tumbled in the unpunishing shore break, and if you let them, they’ll naturally begin to find the timing and rhythm of the waves.

(Of course, the lesson of never turning your back to the ocean is always in order.) If there’s a light south swell, and your kids are comfortable with it, get them on a boogie board and listen to them squeal as they catch their first free rides to shore. It’s a stoke they’ll never outgrow.

Avid swimmers may be ready to explore beyond the shore. If so, grab the mask and snorkel—there are plump coral heads to examine not too far out. Adventurous snorkelers (with parental supervision) can kick out to the rocky point on the south end for quite an underwater viewing treat.

South Maui’s generally calm wind, sunshine, and clear blue water make Maluaka worth hauling all the toys out for. Mākena Beach Resort, currently closed for renovations, maintains this beach park, which includes clean public restrooms, showers, and a grassy area. Shade may be in short supply, so bring an umbrella. Munchies, too: Aside from a food truck or two down the road, there’s no food for purchase for miles.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Photo by Michael Neubauer Plan B: West Maui’s Nāpili Bay 34

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Photo by Jenna Szerlag

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AgeS 8–12: Mini-groms in actioN

Let’s face it, at this point, you’re not the one deciding which beach you’ll be going to—at least not without some strong preteen opinions factored in. Those sweet kiddos who relied on you for safety and to make them sandcastles now pretty much abandon you before your unfurled beach blanket can flutter to the sand. If they’ve taken up surfing or sponging (boogie boarding), you may not see them for hours. Naturally, you want to keep an eye on them anyway, so a nice, near-shore beach break offers a happy compromise.

Sure, some spots are nearer to town, but on a sunny summer day, nothing can beat Kōkī Beach in Hāna for a grom session.

Your little shredder can carve up the mini barrels while you watch the ‘iwa birds swoop endless circle eights over ‘Alau Island. If that gets tiresome, take a stroll to see whether the resident monk seal is napping at the base of the red coastal cliffs. (But be sure

to keep your distance.) And hey, when it’s the dreaded time to reapply sunscreen, there’s no hiding. Much to your young one’s chagrin, you can walk right out to them—the water is only about waist deep in the lineup. (Cue maniacal mom laughter.)

Heading to Hāna for a beach day is quite a commitment, but the good news is that food trucks have popped up throughout Hāna town, making it much easier to grab a snack or a meal.

Nevertheless, come well prepared with provisions for a full day—or consider an overnight stay—and nope, there is no shower or restroom at Kōkī (though Hāmoa Beach, just a short stretch down the road, offers both). There’s a wildness to this beach; it’s both a reward and something to heed. In the winter, Kōkī is known for deceivingly strong rip currents. Always use good judgment, and don’t be afraid to ask some Hāna locals if you’re unsure about reading the water yourself.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Plan B: Pavilions at Ho‘okipa, near Pā‘ia town Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2017

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13 & Beyond ( If the mere suggestion of going to the beach with Mom and Dad now elicits eye-rolling, exploring the rugged coastline at Nu‘u Landing may be the perfect solution. The vast, textured expanse of leeward Haleakalā can offer perspective on petty high-school dramas, and its very remoteness will help the whole family unplug from devices and connect in a more primal way: tuning in to the howling wind skipping across the ridge lines, lulling into the meditative pace of waves polishing boulders against one another, ruminating on found remains— bits of fish bones, feathers, and lobster shells—and weaving their story.

Protected by the Hawaiian Islands Land Trust, this culturally rich conservation land is dotted with ancient Hawaiian archaeological sites, a thriving native wetland (bring binoculars and a birding book!), and is a favorite spot for local fishermen. For the adventurous, camping is permitted; there’s a pit toilet, but not much else. Twice a year, the land trust offers guided, interpretive tours; the next is August 19. Visit hilt.org for more information.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Plan B: Waihe‘e Coastal Dunes & Wetlands Refuge Photo by Judy Edwards

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Being a perpetual student of Hawaiian culture—perpetual in the sense that I never graduate—I decided to seek advice on a dilemma that my own children have thrust upon me. You see, my kids went out and had kids of their own. That makes me, like it or not, a grandparent. I have no role models for this new life phase, and I’m not at all sure how to feel about it.

So I thought I should pester some Hawaiian cultural practitioners for insight on what seemed to be the roughly equivalent term for “grandparent”—kupuna. A kupuna is simply anyone who gets old, right?

Not at all.

Non-Hawaiian mind considers the boundary between life and death to be absolute.

Hawaiian mind considers this and all such boundaries to be porous. So I have been taught, mahalo. Life passes into life, the gods are present in patterns of stone and surge of sea, the end has not come, not at all, the past lives now, the winds tell stories, no one is going anywhere, and the true role of nā kūpuna continues beyond chit-chat into the ongoing communications otherwise known as hunch, inspiration, conscience, doubt, regret, intuition.

Hang onto your hat, Gramps.

In the face of a Hawaiian woman from the early 1900s, you can read the qualities that make one a kupuna: resilience, experience, a resolute dedication to family.

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According to Nāpua Greig-Nakasone, there’s no such thing as retirement for the kupuna.

Nāpua is kumu hula (teacher) of an award-winning hālau (hula troupe) and the recipient of a Nā Hōkū Hanohano Award, the “Hawaiian Grammy.” At the time I spoke with her, she had just returned from a performance tour in Japan. She was also engaged in building a home while maintaining a full teaching load—and she attributed all that compulsion and ambition to her ancestors. “I don’t feel I have a choice,” she said. The kūpuna were filling her dreams with instructions and choreography. “They must feel some urgency that I do all this.”

PHOTOGRAPH H00034. IMAGE COURTESY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF HAWAII AT MĀNOA LIBRARY, HAWAIIAN COLLECTION

Ola nā iwi.

The bones live.

HAWAIIAN SOUL

She told me that at one point, “I hit overload.” Headaches, losing focus. She shut off her cellphone and drove out to the rural construction site of her then-new home. The sun was setting and all was silent. She sat alone on the empty lānai and wept. “I started apologizing to my kūpuna. I told them, ‘I thought I could handle. I’m sorry.’”

Then she saw a pueo—the endemic Hawaiian owl, a rare and powerful bird that many people consider to be ‘aumakua or spiritual ally—soaring nearby. The owl landed on a pile of rocks at the corner of the lot.

“I believe that ‘aumakua are our kūpuna coming back,” she said. “Each appearance is one ancestor, a specific one.” Which one was this? She didn’t say, but it was one whose name for some reason always causes Nāpua’s eyes to well with tears.

“I called out, ‘Are you really here for me? I’m here at that breakdown moment.’”

The pueo swiveled its fierce head, fixed her with its stare, spread its enormous wings, then swooped over and landed on the railing.

“I thought, okay, that’s it. Headache went away. I came right home and did a task list.

Boom! Snap out of it. I got that message loud and clear. Who am I to doubt the voice of my kupuna?”

Nāpua herself is infused with rascal energy, with her diminutive stature, her sharp, expressive eyebrows, her whipcrack pidgin-inflected voice, and a head of lava-black hair that’s almost equivalent to the rest of her body mass. But she said, “The whole point is, who am I? I’m not special. I am all the people who came before me.” She finished in a flurry of stuff-gathering, out the door, late for the next appointment. Almost as an afterthought, she said: “We are not alone. And that’s a good thing.”

Fireman and taro-farmer Kyle Nakanelua is nowhere near old enough to be called kupuna. But I’d heard him speak about his involvement with the mua, a recently revived Hawaiian tradition of male education in which elder men guide the younger in their responsibilities to society. I remembered him talking about the three levels in male culture—the ‘ōpio (youngsters), the mākua (parent generation, the backbone or kua of the family), and the kūpuna. I wanted to know the difference between the latter two categories, and how a man knows when he has achieved kupuna-hood.

He told me not to expect any automatic honors when my hair turns white. It’s not a matter of “quantity,” he insisted, number of years, number of grandchildren. “You got to qualify.”

He said, “For us, kū means ‘standing’ and puna is a spring. When you are kupuna, you’re the standing spring. The others can take clean pure water from the spring. You need to earn that honor. You cannot just sit in a bar all your life, then wake up at age sixty-five and say, ‘I’m a kupuna.’”

Said Kyle, “You can have twenty grandchildren, but did you serve them? Do they serve you? You took them to the taro patch in their childhood; now thirty years later they are taking care of your taro patch. The things you hold valuable, they value. When you see the young drinking your water and being refreshed by it, then you know you are kupuna.”

He gives aging a muscular challenge—it takes work. “As ‘ōpio you work toward being makua. As makua you work towards being kupuna, which is an active state. You grow into it.”

This work continues after death. Kūpuna transcend their physical mortality. Hence the Hawaiian affection for genealogies and for buried iwi (bones). Here the word “kupuna” begins to turn Western thinking on its head. This is why I drove out to The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua.

The story of the 1989 construction of that beautiful resort is well known in Hawai‘i— the unearthing of iwi of over 1,000 ancestors, the halting of construction, the statewide moral agony, the reinterment of the bones, the relocation of the hotel itself, and the creation of the Hawaiian Burial Council. With that history in mind, I went out to share a meal with Clifford Nae‘ole, the resort’s cultural advisor. We sat next to the lovely seaside lawn covering those resting remains.

“The greatest lessons come after they’re gone,” he says. “That shows you the kūpuna are still living.” Clifford is a big man, upbeat in his demeanor. But he spoke with wistful inwardness as he told me about his grandfather, a stern, silent taro grower whose recorded lineage goes back to a Hawai‘i Island chief who once saved the life of the infant (and future king) Kamehameha. (“At least twelve generations back to the days of Nae‘ole,” Clifford

Hawaiian mind considers the boundary between life and death to be porous.

The role of na¯ k u¯ puna continues in inspiration, conscience, intuition, even after death.

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HAWAIIAN SOUL

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said. “My grandmother told me my backbone exists simply because of them. Every link is a link to the past.”)

Grandfather asked Clifford to take over the taro patches, but he, as a young man, wanted no part of it. “I went off to see the world.

I thought I was invincible!” A dozen years later he came home to find the taro patches weed-choked and spiderwebs in Grandfather’s rubber boots. Dying, the old man said: This could have been yours, but you went away.

“I lost it,” said Clifford. “So what do I do about it now? Make the best for the greater good. When the ‘I’ and the ‘me’ surrender to the ‘we’ and the ‘us’—therein comes your legacy.”

He looked in the direction of the grassy burial ground. “Nā kūpuna ka wa kahiko—of the old days—teach us dignity and sanctity. Their greatest lesson came a few hundred years after they died, when they came back up to expose themselves. They’re always teaching."

There’s a Buddha in Al Lagunero’s living room, a standing figure, gilt and mirroredspangled, with hands extended, one palm up,

the other palm down. Al stood next to the statue, striking the same pose, hands up, hands down. “Look for the gateways,” he said. “That’s where you will find the kūpuna.”

Al is known as an artist, a painter of mystical images. More tacitly, he is sought for his skills as a master of pule (prayer). He speaks in the language of symbols, and he goofs around like a kid. The combination can knock you over with a feather.

He had prepared a list of English words suggested by “kupuna.” Among them were gate, gateway, path, doorway, source, resource, above, below, returning, and (again) gate. He had drawn several pages of symbols, very petroglyph-ish, that gained complexity as they progressed: first simple, gatelike representations, then a strand of ribs (Cliff Nae‘ole: “My backbone exists because of them.”), then a tree with its roots in the heavens, then the spiral and nature’s greater complexities. As I studied these pages, Al went outside and returned with a single fern leaf, a simple frond with lobes that looked like ribs.

“This is kupuna of this property,” said Al. “The name for this fern is kupukupu.”

The natural world is full of kūpuna. In the forest you can find the oldest tree—that is kupuna. Certain stars are kūpuna to certain mountains, the mountains likewise to the lowlands. The mountain known as Mauna Kea is properly called Mauna A-Wakea, Wakea being the sky-god progenitor of all humanity; therefore, Mauna Kea is kupuna to us all. Al suggested that I could see these things if I went into the forest and looked, paid attention, listened, and when I noticed something, said, “Hello! Who are you?”

I mentioned the term “hulu kupuna,” the elder who is precious as a feather. “Hulu” means feather. As I rose to leave, gathering my kupukupu and the symbolic sketches, Al said, “I could never be kupuna. I’m too kolohe [rascal].” Then we headed out the door and looked down the flight of steps—a very long run of steps like a strand of ribs—and there it was. A single black feather lying sideways, wedged by its edge into a lumber seam. Al picked it up, handed it to me, and we laughed.

I decided to take Al Lagunero’s challenge and go find a kupuna for myself.

I drove up the mountain at end of daylight, driving as far as the skinny hairpin road would let me. When the road got bad, I walked upslope, carrying a flitch of kupukupu, fern fronds. I began to see small, aged māmane trees, many of them half-dead, trunks in clusters, none bigger in diameter than a baseball bat, pocked with insect tunnels and caked with flakes of bark. The understated tassels of foliage were the softest, muted green, the leaflets arranged in paired racks down the midrib—exactly the way of the kupukupu. A little farther up, I glimpsed the prettiest of the old māmane. I walked up to it, kupukupu flitch in hand, and there was a gateway—two upright pūkiawe shrubs with just enough space between for me to pass.

In the silence that crowds out all words, I stepped up to the gateway, then stepped through to meet the old lady. I said hello. I admired her multitude of gray-brown limbs crusted wth bark, frail-seeming despite her long history, her surviving fire and storm and drought and human. I thought of all the Hawaiian people who have willingly helped me learn. Then I heard a silent voice.

“Go home, Junior. Get back to work.”

A version of this story appeared in the January/ February 2013 issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi.

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808-662-7730 | KapaluaTennis.com Within the 22,000 acres that comprise Kapalua Resort you’ll find the Kapalua Tennis Garden, a lushly landscaped and active 10-court facility with views of the mountains in one direction, the ocean in the other. Kapalua Tennis is an award-winning facility with expert instruction, offering daily clinics, fast-paced live-ball drill sessions, drop-in doubles, junior camps, social events and matchmaking services.

Kapalua Tennis was recently voted the No. 8 Tennis Resort in the World

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SHERATON MAUI RESORT & SPA

808-622-8059 | Sheraton-Maui.com At Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, even the beachside s’mores have an island flavor. Indulge that sweet tooth and snag a traditional or local-style s’mores kit to roast at the resort’s beachfront fire pits. The local kit comes stocked with Maui cookies, macadamia nut pieces, coconut flakes, li hing mui sugar, bananas, pineapple, strawberries and chocolates—along with graham crackers and marshmallows, of course! The only thing sweeter than dessert is your view of nearby Pu‘u Keka‘a and Lāna‘i in the distance!

808-877-3167 | SunshineHelicopters.com Explore the hidden wonders of Maui and Moloka‘i that can only be discovered by air—places where no one has ever set foot. View remote valleys, rugged coastlines, lush jungle vegetation reminiscent of prehistoric times, and spectacular vistas, including excellent views of Haleakalā Crater, ‘Ohe‘o Pools, and the Hāna rainforest. Discover Moloka‘i’s spectacular north shore, home to Hawai‘i’s tallest waterfalls and the world’s tallest sea cliffs, towering some 3,000 feet from summit to shoreline.

KAI KANANI SAILING

808-879-7218 | KaiKanani.com Come aboard the luxurious Kai Kanani, a 65-foot sailing catamaran located in Wailea/Mākena. From snorkeling tours of world-renowned Molokini Crater, to seasonal whale watching, to adventure sunset sails and luxury private charters, Kai Kanani does it all. With a South Maui departure, Kai Kanani is the only boat that can get you to Molokini Crater—Hawai‘i’s best snorkeling site—in just 15 minutes.

Book online or visit our retail store in Wailea Gateway Center.

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SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS

KĀ‘ANAPALI GOLF COURSES

808-661-3691 | KaanapaliGolfCourses.com We offer FootGolf every day after 3:30 p.m. for just $15 per person. Popular in Europe, FootGolf combines soccer and golf, allowing just about anyone to take it up on a whim, and making it perfect for Kā‘anapali’s guests.

FootGolf is played over nine holes that run adjacent to the Kā‘anapali Kai Course, with soccer balls and carts available for rental. If pure golf is your passion, we can make that game more adventurous, too, with our Golf Board rentals that let you “surf” your way around the course for just $25.

FOUR WINDS II/MAUI CLASSIC CHARTERS

R2H: ROAD TO HANA

TheR2H.com Want to explore Maui’s lush rainforests, frolic beneath hidden waterfalls, and discover breathtaking natural wonders? How about hiking through a bamboo forest to a 400-foot waterfall? Find all this and more with the most adventurous and romantic Road to Hāna audio guide available. No buses loaded with tourists.

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808-879-8188 FourWindsMaui.com Take a snorkel trip to Molokini, or to West Maui’s Coral Gardens and discover a rainbow of tropical fish and beautiful coral reefs on either our morning or afternoon snorkel tours. We provide everything you need to make this the most memorable part of your Hawaiian vacation! Bring the entire family, because there’s lots of fun for all ages aboard the Four Winds II. Our boat features a glass-bottom room, waterslide, breakfast, lunch, and all the gear you need. This is a “must do” on Maui!

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COURTESY OF WAILEA GOLF CLUB

808-270-7000 | MauiOceanCenter.com Explore an underwater world of wonder at “Hawai‘i’s aquarium.” Discover turtles, sharks, stingrays, tropical fish, and much more! Maui Ocean Center is home to one of the world’s largest collections of live Pacific corals, and the complete aquarium experience includes a Behind-the-Scenes Tour or swimming with sharks and rays on a Shark Dive Maui adventure. Enjoy daily fresh-catch specials and gorgeous ocean views at Seascape Restaurant. Shop for Hawai‘i-made products and more at the Maui Ocean Treasures gift shop.

192 Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea

808-875-7450 WaileaGolf.com/Academy The Wailea Golf Academy offers fun learning activities for golfers at any level of the game, beginning through advanced. Choose from numerous options, including private lessons with one of the Academy’s awardwinning teaching professionals, monthly clinic series covering various topics, beginner classes with a low student-to-teacher ratio, and summer camps for junior players. Special Golf Demo Days are particularly good opportunities to check out some of the latest equipment available.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2017

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ISLAND PORTRAIT

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2017

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wa in Hilo iled to a up on Ha o‘o Mall chool fa s re Growing p in the Kaik y t p a ra ins in the e d u e q th n eech t happe e manne “I th . ic to s which sp u g to m ingin ced me to , turned started s e introdu “I h . s s ll d n a n c Leonard a re !’ ni young so crowd ey’s,” Kala ght; her u love a ri o y s , g a h n w J.C. Penn ri ‘O e , es stutt .” Mom mom go sang, his , choir. . . e ra h e n p e o store. My , h g in nd w ocal train dience, a n, music: v for an au g in d musicia rm o perf omplishe c c a d, n a enjoyed a d lf y er. of m is himse altogeth “Because . ta” Pe‘a, n d “A io r s in stopped u s h W a , rt son’s p ther, A ; Earth Al Green nced his ; e Kalani’s fa s u n fl o in ti d ta n mp uraged a music: Te .” and enco ent, kinds of ll a love it all g I . in aui resid . . g sin Willie K now a M i, le n c n la ga I grew up U a in , K e n , w 2017 a. Win noa Kea mutual. In m, E Wale u is ry & Fire; Ge lb g to n a ic li t v e u deb d this the fe ll feat, an rd for his Evidently a a to m w s g A o in y n rd um, is ic reco a Gramm debut alb iian-mus a a ry h o w received it g a w H te t y a ll e firs the c , especia Walea is th ard since d E w n a e Grammy a s s u m a u rt c A lb sic A rding eeter be Roots Mu y of Reco l m a e is even sw n d io a g c e A onal e Best R . The Nati receive th ears ago y e v fi d te was crea

We’re guessing this is how Hawaiian music fans felt when Pe‘a’s debut album won the 2017 Grammy Award in the Regional Roots category.

Sciences combined the Hawaiian, Native American, polka, zydeco and Cajun Grammies in 2012, and the Regional Roots category has been dominated by Cajun/zydeco artists ever since. Until this year, when the self-described “big boy” with the lauhala bow tie and jaunty flat cap burst onto the Grammy scene.

The album’s title, E Walea, means to come together, like a flock of birds, in exuberance and enjoyment; it aptly portrays the energy that surrounds this young man. And the ease with which his voice sails—from the heights of pure, clear Hawaiian falsetto; to earthy, playful growls—evokes walea’s alternate definition: to do well, effortlessly, as an acquired skill.

The eclectic taste Kalani’s father instilled in him shines on E Walea, which includes seven haku mele (original compositions in ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i—Hawaiian language), and covers of a few of his favorite Hawaiian standards and pop ballads, including Joe Cocker’s “You Are So Beautiful” and Heatwave’s “Always and Forever”—with lyrics in ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i.

In his live performances, Kalani stretches musical boundaries even further, artfully blending smooth R&B, soft rock, and Hawaiian—both classic and contemporary. With a bluesy, ZZ Top flavor, Kalani’s treatment of “Noho Paipai” (“Rocking Chair Hula”) really does rock! By the time he has the audience singing “Ooh, Baby, Baby” with him, everyone in the house truly understands the meaning of e walea.

Watching him light up the stage with unbridled joy, you might assume that Kalani not only loves a crowd, but needs one; that he is happiest when performing. Not so. His interests are deep and varied, and each arouses the same bubbly enthusiasm.

Fluent in ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i, he is an ardent supporter of Hawaiian language immersion school, which he attended from the third grade. A 2001 graduate of Ke Kula o Nāwahīkalani‘ōpu‘u in Kea‘au, Puna, Kalani received a bachelor’s degree in communications

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ASSOCIATED PRESS

ISLAND PORTRAIT

ThirdPageVertical.qxp_MauiNoKaOi 5/23/17 8:18 A

Hawaii’s oldest and most respected art gallery proudly presents an extensive selection of Maui’s finest traditional and contemporary original art.

Betty Hay Freeland

ADAM PALUMBO / VISION HORSE MEDIA; RIGHT: JOHN HOOK

Hometown hero Kalani Pe‘a performs in the Crown Room of Hilo’s Grand Naniloa Hotel. In May, his E Walea won Nā Hōkū Hanohano’s award for Contemporary Album of the Year. Below: Kalani with fiancé and business manager Allan Cool

from Colorado Mesa University in Grand Junction. He has worked as a television news assignment editor, a print journalist, a teacher, and an illustrator. For the past eight years, he has served as a Hawaiian resource coordinator for Kamehameha Schools, combining his lifelong interest in science with his dedication to Hawaiian culture.

His creative pursuits range beyond music to visual arts; he enjoys sketching and pointillism as much as songwriting and composing; he illustrated and published five Hawaiian-language children’s stories while still in high school. “I have no favorite hobby or activity. There are so many things I love. They’re who I am.”

Music as an art is one thing; music as a business involves a great deal more.

Kalani is quick to credit his business and life partner, Allan Cool, as the key to E Walea’s success. An award-winning makeup artist, Allan is the managing and marketing half of Kalani Pe‘a Music. For months before the Grammy ceremonies, he tirelessly reached out to high-profile producers and artists.

“It’s all about building relationships and networking. Allan works so hard for us. He is my best friend, my manager, my confidante, my backbone . . . my fiancé,” Kalani beams.

B. H. Freeland “Iao Valley” 32” x 20” Oil

B. H. Freeland

The singer is just as lavish with praise and appreciation for his parents, “who sacrificed everything for my siblings and [me].” At thirty-four, Kalani retains a childlike wonder at the many turns his life has taken.

“I am overwhelmed with joy and gratitude.

Winning the Grammy has opened a lot of doors; so many exciting things coming up: tours, collaborations with major artists . . . it has changed my life.”

Happily, national acclaim hasn’t changed him. “It’s so unbelievable, I pinch myself every day,” he giggles.

WEB EXCLUSIVE Hear Kalani sing—visit Mauimagazine.net/kalani-pea

“Kapalua View” 12” x 18” Oil

• Lahaina Exhibitions • July 28 - August 17, 2017

IAN TREMEWEN LORRAINE ABERNETHY

Reception: July 28, 6-9pm Friday Night Art Demonstrations 120 Dickenson Street Lahaina • 808.661.4402 • Kapalua Exhibitions • Demonstrations 10am - 1pm July, all Tuesdays...

GEORGE ALLAN

August, all Thursdays...

BETTY HAY FREELAND The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua 808.669.1800

villagegalleriesmaui.com Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2017

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ARTISTS ON LOCATION

Matrilineage They’re built according to the same body plan—lean, tall, strong, hair thick and dark as a moonless night, eyes brilliant under dark brows, voices calm but bellclear, the same physique, born to wear hiking boots.

Mother and daughter, they are both artists, neighbors as well. Male relationships are rarely this close.

Story by PAUL WOOD Photography by TONY NOVAK-CLIFFORD

Betty Hay’s art fills her Kula studio, as it has filled her daughter’s life. But while following in her mother’s footsteps, Denby is tracing a path all her own.

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Top: Betty Hay painted this Wailea shoreline from a vantage that has since vanished. “I noticed cranes in position for building what turned out to be the Grand Wailea Resort,” she says. “I’ve painted many places that don’t exist anymore.”

Above: The Plantation Course at Kaplua descends from now-departed pineapple fields to the Pailolo Channel between Maui and Moloka‘i. This is one of several Betty Hay paintings the Plantation Course commissioned for its clubhouse. “I did a lot of paintings here, pre-Ritz-Carlton and other development,” she notes.

Right: Cliffs of Moloka‘i is one of Betty Hay’s most recent works. “I go back to certain scenes, but they’re always different. The lighting, the emotion of the place is always new.”

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D

Denby Freeland-Cole has stopped by her mother’s painting studio to show some of her latest creations in kapa, the artful fabric that clothed pre-contact Hawaiians. It’s Sunday in rural Kula, far from traffic, a lush sunny day at the tail of a rainy winter. The studio ceiling is double-high, and light shines into the room. Part of the studio’s floor is surfaced with torn kraft paper that Denby and Betty Hay Freeland, her mother, installed and ornamented with subtle patterns. The scuff-proof installation required twentyfour gallons of Elmer’s glue. Half the studio walls are glass—tall, wood-framed sliders, and these are wide open. “It feels like being outdoors,” says Betty Hay. A fly gets in, and Betty Hay starts wrangling some screen doors. “I’ve never used these,” she says and she gives up, clearly uninterested in doors of any kind. Other walls are covered with Betty Hay’s plein-air landscapes, some unfinished and hanging at odd angles for her scrutiny, others simply archival, samples of the thousands of Hawaiian wilderness portraits she has created over the past five decades.

Asked to describe their mother/daughter relationship, Betty Hay says, “We are both quite independent, we like being active outdoors, and we enjoy traveling.” Denby says, “Mom’s more chatty than I am.” Betty Hay: “She’s more like her father in that way.” That’s pretty much all the difference they can identify. The rest is personal style.

The landscape paintings of Betty Hay Freeland are iconic in Hawai‘i. They possess a bright, glinting liveliness, something sundazzled, with earnest attention to lighting that ranges from bright foregrounds to the depths of indigo-touched ravines. She dotes on the deep backgrounds. Working in oils, she creates portraits of places in time. She knows that the islands change. “I’ve painted a lot places that don’t exist anymore.” She painted the Wailea shoreline as the resortbuilding cranes came in.

She was born in Kohala, on the Big Island, well before Kohala was much more than a sugar plantation. After college on the Mainland, she came home, married, lived on O‘ahu, and took an art class for purely practical reasons. “I signed up for a free workshop because my walls were blank. It didn’t occur to me to buy anything. I always made everything I needed. I refinished furniture. I sewed upholstery and drapes. Keoki [her husband] complained once, ‘Why can’t we buy anything new?’”

As luck would have it, her early art teachers were masters. Lloyd Sexton was

ARTISTS ON LOCATION

Although she usually finishes her paintings in the studio, Betty Hay learned her art on location.

Fifty years on, she still loves to work outdoors, producing more than eighty oils a year.

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ARTISTS ON LOCATION an eminent landscape artist of plantationera Hawai‘i. Then “Peter Hayward showed me how to work with a palette knife. That became my primary tool.” She found herself in a klatch of older women who kept a regular schedule of open-air painting excursions. (“‘Plein air’ is just painting on location,” she says, “being surrounded by air. That’s how I learned. I finish things in the studio.”)

The klatch held home showings every three months. Then Betty Hay’s mother-in-law took one of her paintings to a gallery on Front Street in Lahaina and sold it. “I was so excited I forgot to sign it. That was ’67 or ’68.” Since then Betty Hay has been singleminded and prolific.

Her way with oils is distinctive. Even more at-a-glance recognizable is Betty Hay’s choice of subject matter—wild, unpeopled landscapes, often with dizzying vistas. As a consequence, Freeland family vacations never involved urban places. The family photo albums feature crags and canyons with minuscule humans waving in the corners.

When the kids were young, she hired a nanny so that she could head out into the wilds with her VW van and easel. After her three children were grown, she contemplated getting a job. “But this is what I do.”

“Her artwork was part of everything we did,” says Denby. She recalls at age three toddling around “carrying easel bars on Moloka‘i” and later “passing pūpūs at Lahaina art openings.” She admits to disliking art lessons as a kid. Mom put her in summer-school art classes at Punahou—then went off plein-airing—and Denby invented so many sicknesses to avoid class that the school called Betty Hay, wondering about her daughter’s chances of survival. Denby’s brother behaved similarly, throwing his school artwork directly into the trash. The problem: nothing they made looked as good, or as easy, as Mom’s.

Later Denby shrugged off this anxiety.

She took classes at Lahaina Arts Society, then majored in art at University of Washington, where she focused on watercolor. When she switched majors to anthropology, she confronted her own duality of interests: as much in endemic cultural practices and physical settings as in artistic interpretation of those settings. She has worked as an environmental educator in various ways, with Bishop Museum, Hawai‘i Nature Center, Hawaiian Islands Land Trust, and now with Learning Endeavors, a local nonprofit organization focused on innovative educational programs.

She vagabonded the planet: Europe, Nepal,

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Hawaiian kapa-making largely disappeared after the arrival of mill-woven cloth. “A lot now is experimentation,” says Denby Freeland-Cole. But that loss frees revivalists like her to find their own styles, though the materials and dyes remain indigenous.

Left: Ho‘oholo, 19”x74”; top right: Hā‘ule, 16”x16”; lower right: Ho‘omae Nā Waiho‘olu‘u, 27”x47” Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2017

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ARTISTS ON LOCATION

Betty Hay’s painting Follow the Path (30”x20”) captures a flawless and passing moment inside Haleakalā Crater.

Left: Denby’s 18”x18” kapa Ke Ala o Ka Mahina (The Path of the Moon) depicts the Hawaiian moon cycle, the basis for carefully calibrated calendars that governed planting and social practices.

Below: Betty Hay’s studio is the next best thing to being outdoors.

It’s no coincidence that daughter Denby has worked extensively in environmental education, which requires her and her students to unplug and go outdoors.

The Village Galleries carries Betty Hay’s paintings at its venues on Front Street in Lahaina, and The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua; her work also shows at Viewpoints Gallery in Makawao. Find Denby’s art at Viewpoints, and at Native Intelligence in Wailuku.

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Bali. . . . On her return, she continued to paint, and teach, watercolor. But her duality now has coalesced with kapa.

Used in pre-contact Hawai‘i as clothing, bedding, even religious adornment, kapa is made from the bark of the wauke tree, laboriously pounded, then scented and ornamented with extracts of native plants. This craft, like many other native cultural arts, was driven to near extinction after the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy. The number of people working today to revive the craft— Denby’s klatch, so to speak—is probably just two to three dozen. Endemic resources are so depleted now that kapa-makers can no longer harvest from the forests. They must grow their own wauke and dye-source plants, and Denby has to contend with deer that invade her yard and scrape their antlers on her living bark supply. On the plus side, she participated in a dramatic moment at the 2011 Merrie Monarch Festival on Hawai‘i Island: she and two-dozen other kapa-makers clothed an entire dance troupe in authentic hula attire for the first time since . . . who knows when.

Denby has developed her own kapa style, in dye patterns, symbols and display practices.

(Although her pieces are considered art, not functional wear, she won’t seal them behind glass. They must be touched and smelled.)

She is finding her way to root her artistic nature deep in the Hawaiian landscape and to keep herself as much as possible outdoors.

Rather like you-know-who.

We should note that both mother and daughter are Hawaiian, something between one-half and one-quarter by the math of DNA. Betty Hay’s great-grandmother was half-sister to Princess Ka‘iulani. But Betty Hay and Denby do not regard themselves as cultural practitioners. They see themselves as living forward, not back. “You don’t have to be a kumu [practitioner] to be a Hawaiian,” says Betty Hay. Denby, thinking of both herself and her mother, says, “Landscape is the basis of the culture.”

The Sunday interlude ends with Denby walking home, where children ages four and six are waiting. Betty Hay walks from her studio into the main house, which is loaded with paintings, heritage calabashes, feather lei, relics of plantation days, a magnificent antique table that she restored back when she started taking art classes in order to cover the walls, and in every room windows, windows, windows. “Every room opens through windows to the outdoors,” she says. “If you want to kill me, shut me up in a room. Here, I can always see out.”

ALOHA Make every moment Grand.

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Beach Beauties MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA

Text by Shannon Wianecki

Photos by Conn Brattain

Enjoying native Hawaiian flora doesn’t require a foray into the mountains; many beautiful blooms love the beach as much as we do. Because the coastal environment is salty and wind-battered, flowers here tend to be diminutive. Aside from the large morning glory, the ones pictured on these pages are dime-sized or smaller.

Look close and breathe deep; the fragrance of these wee blooms may pleasantly surprise you.

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‘Ākulikuli (sea purslane) is a salt-tolerant groundcover that creeps right up to the edge of sea-splashed cliffs. Its pale-pink, starshaped flowers are pretty, but it’s the succulent leaves that savvy gourmets covet: they’re filled with vitamins and omega-3 fatty acids.

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A member of the rose family, ‘ūlei ranks among the loveliest of Hawaiian groundcovers. Its vinelike branches snake along the ground, bedecked in fragrant white blossoms. Hawaiians fashioned spears, fishnets, and backscratchers out of the strong, flexible wood.

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Ubiquitous throughout the islands, naupaka kahakai hedges have curious half-flowers tucked between their leaves. Naupaka kuahiwi,

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a similar species up on the mountain, has the same half-flower.

Legends say the twin blooms represent separated lovers, doomed to live in opposite climes—one in the forest and one by the sea.

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Lei makers collect as many as 800 delicate ‘ilima flowers to create the long, splendid necklaces once worn by Hawaiian royalty. This hardy shrub grows throughout the archipelago. In the harshest environments it lies papa (flat) against the ground.

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Beach morning glory, or pōhuehue, is shown here entangled with yellow strands of kauna‘oa (Hawaiian dodder). Both plants can be braided into lei and are said to be lovers who can’t bear

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5 & 7: FOREST & KIM STARR

to be apart. Surfers wishing for bigger swells will sometimes slap pōhuehue vines on the water for luck.

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Elegant ko‘oloa‘ula blooms dangle upside down beneath silver, heart-shaped leaves. This rare, endangered species grows in a few dry forests, and can be seen on the Wailea Beach walk. Every rubycolored blossom is a precious jewel.

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Pele, the volcano goddess, once went fishing and left her baby sister Hi‘iaka on the shore. A beach vine formed a blanket over the babe, protecting her tender skin from the sun. The miniature morning glory was known thereafter as pā‘ūohi‘iaka: the pā‘ū (skirt) of Hi‘iaka.

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This glossy yellow bloom belongs to ma‘o, the native cotton plant. Early Hawaiians strung ma‘o blossoms into lei, made dyes from its petals and leaves, and stuffed pillows with the soft, reddish-brown tufts that surround its seeds.

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Pōhinahina (beach vitex) has lavender flower stalks, and hina (silvery) leaves that release a sagelike scent when crushed.

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The honey-citrus perfume of naio (false sandalwood) hits you even before the slender-leafed bush comes into view. The stiff flowers are tiny, but their fragrance is powerful.

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STORY BY SARAH RUPPENTHAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIK AEDER

Good things do come in small packages—with planning & care.

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AT HOME Arc Angel, an ethereal underwater image by Maui photographer Erik Aeder, dominates one living-room wall, continuing an ocean theme that begins beyond the condo’s lānai, and flows throughout.

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A tour of Jeff and Rosanna Lucero’s oceanfront condominium doesn’t take very long. There’s one bedroom. One bathroom. One closet. “There’s not much to it,” Jeff laughs. “But that’s why we like it.”

The couple’s newly renovated condo measures a cozy 616 square feet (including the lānai), but the small space doesn’t cramp their style.

“We don’t need a lot,” Rosanna says. “We like to keep things simple.”

The San Francisco natives fell in love with Maui while honeymooning in Kā‘anapali nearly twenty years ago. Jeff, a fitness consultant, was instantly drawn to the bevy of outdoor activities, while Rosanna, a banking executive, was smitten with—well, pretty much everything.

“We were hooked the day we got here,” she says. “We vowed we would do everything in our power to come back every year.”

The Luceros have squeezed as many trips as possible into their busy schedules, ever since. “We were coming here so often that people started telling us to just buy a place,” Rosanna says.

Two years ago, Jeff and Rosanna decided to purchase a second

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home here, one they could rent out when they weren’t on the island.

After they had spent fruitless months looking at properties along Maui’s south shore, their realtor took a different tack. “He asked us, ‘How much space do you need?’” Jeff recalls. “I said, ‘Not much.’”

So when their realtor told them about a small beachfront condo for sale in Kīhei, Jeff and Rosanna were immediately intrigued. “He said we couldn’t see it until the next day,” Rosanna says. “But when we left his office, we drove straight there to check it out.” The sun was setting as the couple walked through the building’s breezeway and stood on the lawn fronting the beach. “We looked up and saw people having a good time out on their lānais,” Jeff says. “That’s when we knew we’d found the right place.”

The next day, they toured the third-floor unit, and as far as first

AT HOME

Before » Left: The remodeled living room echoes Hawai‘i’s mountain-to-sea topography: Wood reclaimed from old Upcountry flumes accents one wall of a room that is otherwise awash in ocean tones. Throw pillows soften the spare lines of custom sofas by Brownstone, selected for the condo’s compact layout. Tim located the monkeypod slab table at Indolotus; the carved monkeypod tiki is by Folau Tupou.

Below: A minimalist’s dream, the kitchen is outfitted with sleek countertops, built-in appliances, and open shelves that create the illusion of extra space.

Before »

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2017

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AT HOME

Before »

Tim Tattersall’s redesign worked like Doctor Who’s Tardis, making the condo appear bigger inside than out. In the bathroom at left, Tim checked off every box on Jeff and Rosanna’s wish list: walk-in shower, double-trough vanity sink, and as much natural light as possible.

Right: The condo’s lean and fluid design brims with character, from a flume-wood entry that dramatically juxtaposes a wall of charcoal gray, to strategically placed mirrors that visually expand the space. The round mirror at right reflects another Aeder photo, while a mirror framed in monkeypod, handcarved by Folau Tupou, offers a peek into a bedroom made roomier by not having doors.

Era dis abo. Et etus doluptur?

Aborate volorion nonsedis dem ratur sitat quaturi tatureius nobis eos evelit volor solendusamus enit parumen imoditi dolupiscitam faces qui dolliciisque qui con eat.

Escipis debitem et aliant que.

« Before impressions go, the interior left a lot to be desired. “It was very dark and cluttered,” Rosanna recalls. It was also a time capsule: The condo, like the building itself, had been built in 1974, and as far as Jeff and Rosanna could tell, it hadn’t been updated since then. It was a far cry from the Luceros’ orderly, 1,200-square-foot Art Deco home in San Francisco, but the cramped quarters were offset by the unit’s unobstructed ocean views. “I was sold on the view,” Jeff says. “You walk in the front door and it’s the first thing you see. How does it get any better than that?”

Not long after the ink was dry on the sales contract, Jeff and

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Rosanna recruited Maui interior designer Tim Tattersall to oversee the remodel. The couple had already settled on a design theme inspired by one of their many hotel stays: the clean aesthetic of the Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort. “We really liked the simplicity and functionality of the Andaz,” Jeff says. “It’s minimal and modern, but it’s also warm and welcoming. That’s the look and feel we wanted.”

But they soon discovered that transforming a small unit can be a not-so-diminutive task. For starters, there was no way to expand upward, outward or otherwise; a footprint of 616 square feet was all they had to work with—and within. “It was a tight squeeze when we

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AT HOME

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had people working in here,” Rosanna says.

The logistical challenges didn’t end there.

The building has no elevator, so tools and materials had to be lugged up (and down) three narrow flights of stairs. And there was a structural hurdle, too. The condo’s ceilings, floors and walls all had uneven surfaces, so all of the interior construction had to be adjusted accordingly. “This was a very analytical job,” Tim says.

First, everything had to go. Work crews gutted the interior, hauling away walls, tile floors, appliances and plumbing; and leaving an empty concrete shell. Once he had carte blanche with the space, Tim created a layout that would maximize every square foot. The first to be reconfigured was the bathroom.

Tim’s design made it thirty square feet larger and added a walk-in shower, double-trough sink, and pass-through windows near the ceiling to let in additional light and open up the space.

In the kitchen, repositioning the plumbing granted Rosanna’s wish that the sink face the seascape. A floor-to-ceiling Fleetwood

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« Before Above: A vibrant oil by Tahitian artist Tania Wursig, a boldly striped bedspread from Pearl Butik, and rich wood tones all attract the eye, but the bedroom’s real beauty lies in such space-savvy touches as under-bed storage, built-in shelves, and wall-mounted lamps and nightstands that leave ample clearance around the queen-sized bed.

sliding door replaced the unit’s standard patio door, admitting more natural light and taking full advantage of the view. Tim’s design called for charcoal-gray Venetian plaster along one wall; a cream finish for the ceiling; and underfoot, washed-gray woodgrain porcelain tile.

Throughout the planning and renovation, Jeff and Rosanna kept a digital scrapbook of things they liked, including a concrete sink they’d seen in a storefront window (a near-replica now occupies the bathroom), and reclaimed-wood paneling spotted at a restaurant in downtown San Francisco.

“I texted a photo of the wall to Tim right away,” Jeff says. “I wasn’t sure how or if it could happen, but we got lucky.” Their lucky break came when the couple’s contractor put them in touch with a local woodworker who had a collection of flume wood from an Upcountry Maui preserve. Arguably one of the condo’s most conversation-worthy features, the salvaged flume wood runs floor to ceiling on accent walls in the bedroom, kitchen and living room.

With the floors and walls completed, Tim was ready to transform each room into a wel-

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coming, comfortable space. He started with the bedroom, which had been awkwardly positioned at the entrance of the unit. “The front door literally opened into the bedroom,” he says. “There was no privacy at all.”

Tim’s clever solution: a four-foot-wide flumewood wall that establishes a more formal entry area, encloses the bedroom, and creates more storage space (there are shelves on the bedroom side of the wall). Like the rest of the unit, the bedroom feels larger than it is. To reduce visual clutter, Tim added under-bed storage drawers, and in lieu of space-hogging bedside tables, installed wall-mounted nightstands outfitted with USB ports.

To increase the kitchen’s functionality, Tim opted for a Sub-Zero undercounter refrigerator, a two-burner electric cooktop embedded in the counter, and a convection microwave. Woodgrain cabinets and a cheerful mosaic-tile backsplash energize the room, while open shelves on one wall create the illusion of more space.

That illusion continues throughout the home, with modern décor selected for the compact layout, including twin sofas tailormade for the living room, trim furniture, and room-brightening artwork. Bulky, unsightly household items are hidden away: The condo’s water heater is stowed in the bedroom closet, and a tall cabinet in the kitchen houses the stackable washer and dryer.

Looking back on it now, Tim says all of the high-stress moments were worth it. “It’s the most difficult project I’ve ever done, but it turned out beautifully.” Jeff and Rosanna couldn’t agree more. “It’s beautiful and practical. Tim opened everything up and completely transformed this place,” Jeff says.

“I love every square inch.”

AT HOME

Floor-to-ceiling Fleetwood doors blur the boundary between inside and out. Tim swapped the lāna‘i’s bulky furniture for a table and bench of reclaimed boat lumber that ca comfortably accommodate two— while taking advantage of the ocean view.

Resource Guide Akamai Plumbing Maui 61 Keleawe Street, Makawao 808-268-2051 AkamaiPlumbingMaui.com Anaya Tile, Inc. 993 West 9th Street, Upland, California 1-909-920-4001 Rafael@AnayaTileCo.com Cano Electric, Inc. 167 Manea Place, #5, Wailuku 808-298-0677 Maui Joinery, Inc. (general contractor) P.O. Box 209, Kīhei • 808-757-2319 MauiJoinery.wordpress.com Native Trails (sinks) 1-800-786-0862 • NativeTrails.net Pacific Source (cabinets, Fleetwood doors) 515 East Uahi Way, Wailuku 808-986-0380 • PacSource.com Tim Tattersall Design P.O. Box 1573, Kīhei 808-280-7452 • TimTattersallDesign.com WaiWood Designs (reclaimed wood) P.O. Box 156, Makawao 808-281-0086 • WaiWoodDesigns.com

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DINING

LA DOLCE Michele and Qiana DiBari are the husband-and-wife owners, and culinary virtuosi, behind Lahaina’s Sale Pepe, winner of 2017’s Gold ‘Aipono Award for best Italian restaurant. They’ve just opened a second venue next door to Sale Pepe—A Fianco, Italian for “next door”—but today we’re not dining at either venue. Instead, the DiBaris have invited me to a picnic at their favorite West Maui beach. Having dined at Sale Pepe, I’d be crazy to say no, in English or Italian.

Left: Jada DiBari flips for her parents’ cooking . . . and for the fun of it.

Right: Italian cuisine goes al fresco at this beach picnic on Maui.

The menu: chicken Milanese on flatbread, pasta fregola salad, and marinara and cheese-filled panzarotti.

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VITA

Story by Becky Speere | Photography by Mieko Horikoshi

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Qiana’s sister Danielle holds little Xavier who may be too sleepy to appreciate a picnic at the beach, but he’ll get there. Just ask his cousin Jada, happily munching on one of her father's favorite childhood treats.

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TOP (4): SALE PEPE; LEFT: MEGAN HILDEBRAND; RIGHT: JOSE MORALES

Michele and Qiana’s latest addition to the island’s culinary scene is A Fianco (lower left)—Italian for “next door.” Located adjacent to sister restaurant Sale Pepe (lower right), A Fianco opens for lunch with an ever-changing menu of items like those above (left to right): fior di latte (fresh mozzarella) pizza, arugola and parmesan salad, rigatoni alla vodka, and fusilli al pesto. Buonissimo!

DINING

Nice work if you can get it: Qiana and Michele’s two restaurants are a just stone’s throw from one of their favorite getaways, Lahaina’s Baby Beach.

In 1989, Michele DiBari, age seventeen, feverishly scanned a jobrecruitment magazine for a cook’s position in Germany. Employment options were limited in his hometown of Rozzano, Italy, and the young DiBari feared a grim future if he stayed. He hopped a northbound train, arrived in Germany, and landed a job in the small Bavarian town of Waldkirchen—at an Italian restaurant.

Two years later, having saved every Deutsche Mark he could, Michele and a partner purchased land in tropical Playa Tamarindo, Costa Rica, and established a bed and breakfast they named Hotel Mamiri. To support that venture, Michele moved to New York City and went to work as a chef at (where else?) an Italian restaurant. DiBari had found his niche. Each successful restaurant opening as chef/partner led to another, until he’d managed to open nine restaurants in New York City, the Dominican Republic, and the French Alps.

In 2005, Michele met Qiana Wallace, a manager and video producer for American rapper, singer, actor and record producer Q-Tip; and the rap band A Tribe Called Quest. The two fell in love and soon married. Wanting to own and operate a family business, the DiBaris sold their shares in the other restaurants, and in 2013, with two-yearold daughter Jada in tow, moved to Maui, determined to simplify their lives. Qiana’s mother, “Mama Dawn,” was not happy about having her daughter and son-in-law move nearly five thousand miles away. “I couldn’t believe they’d move so far from home!” she tells me.

I ask, “Is it because you’d miss your grandchild?”

“Yes, of course,” she answers, then a sly smile appears. “But just partly. I’d grown accustomed to all the good food, and that was going away, too!” So what’s a young grandmother to do? “I decided to move to Maui [temporarily] to help them open up Sale Pepe.”

Michele nods. “We couldn’t have done it without [our family’s] support.”

He offers homemade panzarotti to Qiana’s sister, Danielle, who’s vacationing with Dawn and her own child, two-year-old Xavier.

Lahaina’s Baby Beach is the perfect relaxing venue for Danielle, a production designer who’s worked for such fashion leaders as GAP and Banana Republic. Nodding at the lapping surf, Michele says, “Sometimes I come here when I have a few moments from work . . . just to unwind. And we come here often on the weekends as a family.”

As I joyfully accept a panzarotti, Qiana admits that this isn’t the usual Italian fare of Michele’s forefathers and mothers. Michele elaborates: “In Italy, my whole family, including my aunts and uncles, would show up throughout the day with big trays of food, from eggplant parmesan to lasagna. . . . so much food! Everyone ate all day long!”

I bite into my panzarotti, and the dough is soft and supple, fried, but not greasy. “I make a dough with a blend of wheat and semolina flours and it’s fried in olive oil,” says Michele. “It’s a family recipe that I tweaked.” Qiana says, “Panzarotti was Michele’s favorite childhood Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2017

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DINING

Chef Michele’s Chicken Milanese Prep Time: 30 minutes Yield: Four servings

INGREDIENTS 2 skinless, boneless chicken breasts, thinly sliced and pounded flat 2 eggs ¾ c. all-purpose flour 1 c. Italian-seasoned breadcrumbs ¼ c. vegetable oil sale pepe: salt & pepper

food and was always served at the beach in Lavello, the tiny town where his father was born and where they spent summers.” She adds that, loosely translated, “Panzarotti means ‘little bellies’ and refers to the tomatosauce and mozzarella-filled pockets of these small, southern Italian delicacies.” We strategically bite into the doughy chamber, tilting our heads to catch the soft, creamy filling that gushes from the edges.

The sun hits its zenith as we pass around a plate laden with golden, crunchy chicken Milanese that’s nestled between Michele’s flatbread with tomato slices, and basil and sundried tomatoes puréed with mayonnaise.

Is this pesto mayo, I ask Michele? “No,” he answers. “It’s fresh basil. Pesto would overpower the chicken. I prefer the herb taste. It’s not so rich.” I remember his mantra: Keep it simple and use the freshest and best-quality ingredients. It is sublime and the panino disappears like magic.

Dawn and Danielle are deep in conversation, as Xavier’s eyelids struggle to stay open.

Jada is at the water’s edge, digging in the sand with a newfound girlfriend. I lower my voice so as not to wake the nodding prince nestled in his mother’s lap. “Qiana, what were your summers like, growing up in New York?”

She replies, “Outdoorsy options were limited to Prospect Park or Coney Island. Prospect Park is probably the greenest space in the borough; it’s like the Launiopoko of Brooklyn, where everyone goes to picnic.” Dawn

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agrees, “Our most pleasant memories were at Prospect Park. I’d load all five kids in the car and we’d do barbecues. I took the kids there from the time Qiana was ten years old until she moved on to college.”

Qiana smiles and says, “Coney Island was the opposite of an open-space experience. There were crowds everywhere on the beach. Literally, a hundred-thousand people searched to find a tiny space on the sand. Still, as a child, it was stimulating and thrilling to hear the loud music and ride the old, rickety Cyclone roller coaster. If we were lucky, our parents would buy us hot dogs at the original Nathan’s—my favorite hot dogs to this very day. The snap on that casing cannot be beat! Hot dogs aside, my family usually kept our picnics very simple: fried chicken and potato salad were standard, super portable and perfect served at room temp.” She adds, “This chicken Milanese is a nod to the American fried chicken that was celebration fare for my family, but is also a very common picnic option in Italy. You can even find it at the huge rest-stop stores along the Autostrade [highways] in Italy.

“Did you try the insalata di fregola, yet?”

METHOD Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet at medium heat. While the oil heats, beat the eggs in a shallow dish, adding salt and pepper.

Spread the flour in a second dish, the breadcrumbs in a third.

Working with one slice at a time, gently press the chicken into the flour to coat. Shake off any excess. Dip the slice into the beaten eggs, then lightly press it into the breadcrumbs. Place it on a clean plate, and bread remaining chicken in the same manner, making sure not to stack the slices.

Pan-fry the chicken, two pieces at a time, until golden brown and cooked completely, three to five minutes on each side. Drain on a baking sheet lined with paper towels.

Enjoy as is, or on bread with lettuce, tomatoes and toppings of your choice.

Top: Chicken Milanese goes to the beach, sandwiched between thin slices of flatbread. Below: For Grandma Dawn (left), the only thing better than enjoying great food at the beach is sharing it with family.

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DINING

Sale Pepe’s Insalata di Fregola Prep Time: 30 minutes | Yield: 4–6 servings INGREDIENTS 8 oz. fregola (pasta) 4–8 oz. cherry tomatoes, halved (½–1 cup) 1 c. cooked chickpeas 2 oz. diced feta 2 oz. cucumber, diced ½ small red onion, diced 2 T. parsley, minced 1 small garlic clove, minced ¼ c. extra-virgin olive oil 1 T. good-quality red-wine vinegar sale pepe: salt & pepper, to taste

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METHOD Salt and boil a large pot of water. Toast fregola in a dry, heavybottomed skillet, then add to boiling water. Cook, stirring frequently, until fregola is al dente, about ten minutes. Drain. Toss with 1 tablespoon olive oil and set aside to cool to room temperature.

Vinaigrette: In a small bowl, whisk remaining olive oil, red-wine vinegar, garlic, and 1 tablespoon parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

In a large bowl, combine fregola, chickpeas, red onion, cucumber, feta, cherry tomato, the remaining parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Add vinaigrette and toss well to mix.

Serve at room temperature. Mangiare e godere! (Eat and enjoy!)

she asks. I dig into the salad of chickpeas, tomato, and fregola (a white, pearl-like pasta an eighth inch in diameter), tossed in a redwine vinaigrette. It’s the perfect balance to the chicken panino. Qiana says, “Fresh, fast and simple, this pasta salad came to us via Sardinia, an island off the coast of Italy. We love having a vehicle for veggies as an option at any gathering, and this pasta is wonderful paired with a variety of fresh veggies and a good vinaigrette. We serve it regularly at A Fianco, our new restaurant.”

As our afternoon winds down and sea breezes cool the air, I think about my own

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mother-in-law, Florence, and her visits to be with her Maui family. I see in Dawn the same need to stay connected, to build memories, and the joy she takes away each time she returns home to New York. There’s a sense of peace and security in knowing that, even though they are five-thousand miles away, her family is rich with love and prospering in many ways. Dawn says, “ I’m so proud of them and their success. Qiana found a winner in Michele . . . and he found a jewel in Qiana.”

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DINING Highlights

FAMILY-FRIENDLY RESTAURANTS

Add a roasted head of garlic to Pizza Paradiso’s marinated chicken with saffron rice and charred tomato. Vegetarians will love the falafel pita wrap with lettuce, tomato, red onion, cucumber and tzatziki.

STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

PIZZA PARADISO MEDITERRANEAN GRILL Chef Paris Nabavi strives to satisfy your every ‘onolicious desire with his 2017 Gold ‘Aipono Award-winning menu for best Mediterranean fare and Silver ‘Aipono-winning best pizza. Chef Nabavi imports traditional herbs, spices, and even aromatic, ground Persian lime to create traditional dishes such as baba ganoush, a fire-roasted

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eggplant purée for slathering on flatbread; and crispy falafel stuffed into soft, warm pita with yogurt-tahini sauce and fresh veggies.

Saffron chicken kabob plates overflow with sides such as tabbouleh: a lemon, garlic, and olive-oil-infused cracked-wheat salad with tomato, cucumber, mint and parsley. The menu includes kids’ pasta selections and generous pizzas, but it’s the Mediterranean food at Pizza Paradiso that rocks my world. They even cater!

3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., #208, Honokōwai | 667-2929 | Pizza Paradiso.com POI BY THE POUND Three years ago, CJ Ho‘okano opened Poi by the Pound in Kahului Industrial Park. This spring, the restaurant moved into the former Denny’s Restaurant on Hāna Highway, and has become Maui’s go-to spot for real Hawaiian lū‘au food and killer plate lunches.

When I visit the restaurant, my eyes widen as a plate lands in front of me, laden with grilled, garlic pork sausage—homemade, of course. “Wow!” I exclaim. Brandee, CJ’s daughter and restaurant manager, smiles and says, “Yeah, we give generous portions.” The Hawaiian plate, with its lau lau, kalua pig, lomi salmon, poi, and chicken long rice, could feed half my family, although some diners

MIEKO HORIKOSHI

For ten years, from 1994 to 2004, our family made the Sundaynight trek to Tokyo Tei Restaurant in Wailuku. It was comfort food and familiar service. In fact, we were such regulars that unless we brought a guest along, we didn’t need to place an order. It was the same every time: chicken katsu, pork tofu, and teriyaki steak. They also served the freshest sashimi.

Whenever we entered Tokyo Tei, it felt as though the owner, Eunice, was throwing me a life vest: husband Chris and I had two grade-school children, and a combined workweek of 120 hours— me tending to our café in Ha‘ikū, while he worked in the culinary program at UH–Maui College.

We all need a reprieve from the daily grind, sans cell phones, e-mail and other modern-day distractions. Here are some of our favorite family restaurants:

A P O LY N E S I A N F E A S T & S H O W A musical and culinary journey to Hawai‘i, Aotearoa, Tahiti and Samoa.

AOTEAROA Land of the long white cloud, Aotearoa – New Zealand, is home to the Maori people.

SAMOA “The cradle of Polynesia,” literally the sacred center of its fiery soul.

HAWAI‘I We begin in our beautiful island home of Hawai‘i with our chants, songs and hula .

TAHITI The land of intrigue and romance, has beckoned explorers from around the world.

667-LELE (5353) • Toll-free: 1-866-244-5353 (LELE) 505 Front Street, Lahaina, Maui, Hawai‘i WWW.FEASTATLELE .COM

DINING Highlights

Poi by the Pound’s Korean short ribs are anything but short on flavor, shown here with house-made kimchee and mac salad.

have been known to eat the whole thing in a single sitting. For dessert, try tender taro garnishing a haupia (coconut) ice cream sundae topped with caramel, chocolate sauce . . . and poi. It may be your first, but it won’t be your last! My advice: Go with a huge appetite after a day at the beach. If you can’t make it to the restaurant for a taro kick, you can purchase CJ’s kulolo, a dessert of baked taro, coconut and brown sugar, at Pukalani Superette, Mana Foods, Down to Earth, and Times Supermarket. So ‘ono!

430 Kele St., Kahului | 283-9381 | PoiByThePound.com

Clockwise from top: Nalu’s shoyu ribs plate lunch; Nutcharee’s green papaya salad and spring rolls; Ono Gelato/Maui Sandwich Shack’s meaty pastrami cruncher.

ROASTED CHILES This hidden gem won the Silver Award for best Mexican fare at the 2017 ‘Aipono Restaurant Gala. The reason may be the generations of Benitez family recipes that make up the muy bueno offerings.

Start with queso fundido con chorizo: melted cheeses, sautéed onions and house-made chile pork sausage served with a basket of warm flour tortillas. Pair it with a fresh lime margarita and you are on your way to Old Mexico. ¡Arriba! Grandma’s secret chicken mole artesanal roja recipe, with twenty-five sauce ingredients, migrated across the border; today the exotic, long-simmered chile sauce blankets a tender, poached chicken breast, served at Roasted Chiles with rice and tortillas. Langostino enchiladas topped with creamy verde sauce come with refried beans and rice—a musttry! Save room for the sweet Kula corn cake with dulce de leche.

(No room in the tummy? Take home a slice or two to enjoy in the morning with your coffee.)

Azeka Place Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei | 868-4357 ONO GELATO/NALU’S/NUTCHAREE’S Okay, so you have the towels, umbrella, cooler, sunscreen, spouse, children and dog in the car and you’re on the way to the beach. You haven’t packed lunch because, hey, it’s your day off, too! Besides, everyone wants different cuisine. Head to Azeka’s, and problem solved. In this one shopping center, you can get crispy vegetarian Thai spring rolls and peanut-studded green papaya salad from Nutcharee’s (2017 winner of ‘Aipono’s Silver Award for best Southeast Asian cuisine); a plate lunch of Korean shoyu-glazed short ribs, mac salad, kimchee and hapa rice at Nalu’s South Shore Grill (2016 winner of ‘Aipono’s Gold Award for best new restaurant and 2017 ‘Aipono Silver for best breakfast). Head to Ono Gelato/ The Maui Sandwich Shack for a New York-deli-style pastrami stacked high on marbled rye with pickles and coleslaw, and a pint or two of that frozen dessert whose name is Hawaiian for delicious. Gotcha covered!

Azeka Place Makai (oceanside), 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei

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BECKY SPEERE; TOP LEFT: JOSE MORALES/XINIA PRODUCTIONS

Slathered with Grandma’s secret mole sauce, Roasted Chiles’ chicken breast is sabrosa!

DINING Becky’s Backyard

Aunty Jane’s spicy mango bread (See recipe page 92)

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Mangoes were introduced into the Islands in 1824. Today no fewer than fifteen hybrid varieties are on the radar of the University of Hawai‘i’s College of Tropical Agriculture, and, like the ones above, in backyards all over Maui. The beauties at left are from Yee’s Orchard in Kīhei. Use your own radar to find them at groceries throughout the island.

STORY BY BECKY SPEERE | PHOTOGRAPHY BY TORI SPEERE

MMMMANGOES The sixty-foot tree towered over the furo (Japanese bathhouse) of my aunt’s Hilo home, its branches the source of countless mangoes that had hit the corrugated metal roof like bombs. The fruit lay in different stages of decomposition, its fragrance perfuming the sultry air. Carefully searching the slippery mass for edible fruit, I inched my feet among the fallen and smashed mangoes to keep from sliding off the roof and landing ten feet below. Each time I found a perfect gem, I wiped it on my shirt, then tore through the waxy skin with my teeth, peeling it back slowly in long strips.

I still remember the bright orange flesh and sweet juice running down my wrists and onto my clothing. I didn’t care. I was in mango heaven. But later in the evening, I began to itch. I raised my blouse to find splotchy red welts covering my belly.

I now know that the fruit’s oil and sap

can cause skin rash, as well as more acute reactions, especially if you are sensitive to poison ivy or sumac . . . or overload your immune system and bathe in the juice, as I did. Since that day more than forty years ago, I’ve not had a single adverse reaction to mangoes. But I don’t eat five at one sitting, either.

The mango (Mangifera indica) was brought to the Islands in 1824 from India and the Philippines, and it is one of Hawai‘i’s most popular tropical fruits. It’s also highly nutritious. In October 2015, Medical News Today reported that one cup of diced mango contains 100 percent of the daily requirement of vitamin C, 35 percent of vitamin A, 20 percent of folate, 10 percent of vitamin B6, and 8 percent of vitamin K and potassium—all packed into just 100 calories and half a gram of fat. (MedicalNewsToday. com/articles/275921.php)

Maui is host to some of the best mangoes in the Islands. The trees thrive in areas that receive around fifty inches of rain a year, and at elevations from sea level to 1,500 feet. In early spring, they flush a fiery red with new leaf growth. Flowers appear shortly thereafter, with pollinating honeybees in swift pursuit. On hot summer days, you’ll see mangoes growing in backyards, sometimes breaking branches that are pregnant with this succulent bounty. And there are so many ways to enjoy mangoes: blended into smoothies, baked in bread, stirred into salsa or folded into pancakes . . . even dehydrated and sprinkled with li hing mui powder. The list goes on and on. Just be sure you don’t go on and on, eating too many mangoes at once!

In 1978, Auntie Jane gave me her recipe for spicy mango bread. You’ll find it on page 92, no roof-climbing necessary.

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DINING Becky’s Backyard

Maui’s Premier Gastropub

AUNTY JANE’S MANGO SPICE BREAD Yield: 1 full-sized loaf or 6 small loaves | Prep Time: 20 minutes | Baking Time: 45–55 minutes for regular loaf, 35–45 minutes for small loaves

11am-2am Everyday 2pm-5pm Happy Hour 808.727.2038 ThePintAndCork.com The Shops at Wailea 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive Validated Parking 92

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Sift: 2 c. flour 2 tsp. baking soda ½ to 1 tsp. cloves, ground ½ to 1 tsp. allspice, ground ½ tsp. salt 1 to 1½ c. granulated sugar

Fold egg mixture into dry ingredients. Portion evenly into buttered pan(s), ¾ full, leaving room for batter to rise. Let stand in bowl for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Bake till center springs back and a skewer inserted in center comes out clean.

Beat well: 3 eggs ½ c. vegetable oil or olive oil ½ c. salted butter, melted 2 c. Maui mangoes, diced, with juice* ½ c. Maui macadamia nuts, chopped**

*Maui-grown mangoes may be purchased at Foodland groceries islandwide, Whole Foods Market in Kahului, and Yee’s Orchards in Kīhei. ** Waihe‘e Farms sells Maui-grown macadamia nuts at the Saturday Farmer’s Market (7–11 a.m.) next to Longs Drug Store in Pukalani.

Oceanfront Weddings & Special Events Fresh Seafood, Incredible Sunsets, Complimentary Valet Parking Reservations 808-879-2607 2960 South Kihei Road where Wailea meets Kihei Breakfast & Lunch 8am–2:30pm Award-winning Happy Hour 3–7pm Dinner 5–9pm | Sushi Bar 3–10pm

www.5PalmsRestaurant.com

Mahi Mahi with Molokai Sweet Potatoes

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dining guide B = Breakfast BR = Brunch  L = Lunch  D = Dinner N = Dinner past 9pm  RR = Reservation recommended  $ = Average entreé under $15 $$ = Under $25 $$$ = Under $40  $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2017

WEST SIDE

tas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Huge portions.

Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $

A Fianco, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667. Sale Pepe’s new sister restaurant is una bellezza! Salads, panini, and thin-crust pizza are made traditionally under Chef Michele’s watchful eyes. Italian. L. $–$$

Auntie’s Kitchen, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200.

Saimin, burgers and fresh fish plate lunches mingle with other local fare. Local Mixed Plate. B, L, D. $–$$

Drums of the Pacific, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234. Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly.

Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Duke’s, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900. Imagine Old Hawai‘i at this open-air beach house while dining on crab-andmacadamia-nut wontons or prime rib. Kid-friendly.

American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$

WEST SI ‘Āina Gourmet Market, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2800.

Chef James McDonald oversees this deli’s menu, right down to the sun-ripened tomatoes and Maui onions grown Upcountry at O’o Farm. Deli. B, L. $ Alaloa Lounge, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 RitzCarlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. This stylish bar attracts a cocktail generation as lovely as the views.

Sushi. D, N. $

Aloha Mixed Plate, 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322. Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate.

L, D, N. $ Amigo’s, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210.

Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, chile verde, flau-

The Banyan Tree, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096. Hokkaido seared scallops with smoked pork belly. Kula corn and farro risotto with Hāmākua mushroom. Smoked ribeye steak, ali‘i mushrooms and white cheddar potatoes. Need we say more? Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$

Black Rock Kitchen & Lounge, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808-921-4600.

Grilled catch of the day comes with coconut Moloka‘i purple sweet potato and ginger-spiced broccolini glazed with yuzu brown butter. The mac-nut brittle bar is to die for. ‘Ohana table (family-style) dining available. Kid-friendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, D. $$$ Breakwall Shave Ice, The Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900. Cool off with one of the best snow cones on Maui, and discover your favorite island flavor. Treats. $ Cane & Canoe, Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681. An impressive steak program features filet mignon, American Wagyu rib-eye, and Australian lamb chops. Modern, plantation-style bar offers light fare and full, island-inspired restaurant menu. Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$–$$$$ Choice Health Bar, 1087 Limahana Pl., Lahaina, 661-7711. Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are all made with fresh local ingredients.

Daily specials, and an epic entrée with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red-pepper sesame sauce.

American. B, L. $

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine ‘Aipono Award

Best Mexican 2O17 GOLD Best Fish Taco 2O17 Silver Best Happy Hour 2O17 Silver Best Mexican 2O16 Silver Best Mexican 2O15 GOLD

Cliff Dive Grill, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031.

Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$

Fairway shops in kA'Anapali

Down the Hatch, The Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900. Mermaid fries with cheese, bacon, ranch dressing and lava sauce; towering shrimp cocktails; fresh island fish; and lots of southern aloha . . . so many reasons to dine here!

Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, N, RR. $$

sangritagrill.com 8 0 8 .6 6 2 .6000

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CJ’s Deli & Diner, Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Drive, Kā‘anapali, 667-0968. Comfort food that’s easy on the wallet: homemade meatloaf, deli sandwiches, burgers, and local favorites like mahimahi with lemon-caper sauce, mochiko-chicken plate lunch, and loco moco. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D. $

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Cool Cat Café, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908.

Burgers, chicken, fish and more, all in a fifties-diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $

The Feast at Lele, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 6675353. This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$

Fleetwood’s on Front St., 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. Pacific oysters with a tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome, and a onepound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. Bar opens 2 p.m.

American/British Pub Food. D. $$–$$$$

Foodland, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0975.

Don’t let the fact that it’s a supermarket fool you.

From spicy ‘ahi and sesame shoyu octopus, to Korean shredded dried ika (squid), these poke choices will boggle your mind. But order up! Folks are waiting in line behind you! Second West Maui location: 345 Keawe St., Lahaina, 662-7088. Poke. $ Frida’s Mexican Beach House, 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287. Chalupas, fresh chili agua ‘ahi, and short-rib tacos served with ocean views and fresh mixology. Latin-inspired. L, D. $–$$ The Gazebo, Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-5621. Mac-nut pancakes, French toast and legendary fried rice served with an ocean view. Kid-friendly. American. B, L. $ Gerard’s, 174 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 6618939. Chef Gerard Reversade delights guests with Basque country fare. French. D. $$$$ Honokōwai Okazuya, 3600-D L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Honokōwai, 665-0512. Plate lunches piled high with two-scoops rice and mac salad fly out the door of this tiny takeout shop. Local Mixed Plate. No credit cards. L. $

Honu Seafood & Pizza, 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390. Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$ Hula Grill, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636. Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy kiawe-grilled ono on fresh spinach, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music.

Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$ Japengo, Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4796. Authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood. Steak, too! Japanese. D, N. $$$ Joey’s Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474. Try the braised

lahaina fried soup short-rib pho on rice noodles, corn and sweet peppers in rich ginger beef broth. Second West Maui location: Nāpili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0011. Dine in casual comfort with the Tiki Restaurant’s full-service menu, or challenge yourself to try all the offerings at the award-winning Sunday brunch. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$

yakitori

pahole salad

star udon

garlic noodles

singapore noodles

steamed pork buns hapa ramen

ahi avo pad thai

sake cocktails

Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room, Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 100 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6677733. From the people who brought Cheeseburger in Paradise to Lahaina comes this venue serving burgers, sandwiches, pizzas and salads. Dinner adds steak, fresh fish and pasta. Thirty wines under $30 a bottle. American. D. $–$$

IDE

Kai Sushi, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. Chef Tadashi Yoshino and his team work sushi magic. Large selection of Japanese saké. Sushi. D. $$$ Kobe Japanese Steak House & Oku’s Sushi Bar, 136 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 667-5555. Flying shrimp, whirling spatulas and late-night karaoke make this longtime Lahaina icon fun. Kid-friendly. Sushi/ Japanese. D, N, RR. $$$ Lahaina Fish Co., 831 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3472.

Grab an oceanfront seat and dig into fresh mahi and sautéed scallops. Memorable tropical drinks, and happy hour from noon to 6 p.m. Pacific Rim. L, D. $$–$$$ Lahaina Grill, 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117. Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad; Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with vanilla-bean jasmine rice; or the famous Kona coffee roasted rack of lamb with coffee-cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selections and cocktails. Mexican/Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495. Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors like sesame crusted seared ‘ahi with shiitake mushroom butter soy sauce; and Korean gochujang risotto with salt-and-peppah mahi. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D, N. $$ Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600. The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw, and ice-cold beer or just-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance. After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie! American. B, L, D. $ Local Boys Shave Ice, 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476. This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. Also see South Shore listing. Treats. $

Longhi’s, 888 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2288. For breakfast at this open-air landmark, try the eggs Benedict on thick toasted French bread. For dinner, use the jalapeño cheese bread to sop up sauce served with the shrimp Longhi. Italian. B, L, D. $$$–$$$$ Māla Ocean Tavern, 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 6679394. Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the healthconscious and the hedonistic at this surfside tavern.

Turtle sightings nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean.

BR (Sat & Sun), L, D. $$ Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2017

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dining guide Maui Island Coffee, Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4158. Follow the seductive aroma of fresh-brewed coffee and you’ll find a cafe jewel serving some of the best since 1992. There’s a nice selection of pastries, bagels and light sandwiches for dining in or takeaway. Bistro. B, L, D. $

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MauiGrown Coffee Company Store, 277 Lahaina-luna Rd., Lahaina, 661-2728. If youre running low on energy, head to MauiGrown’s plantation-style hale for a boost. Pumpkin bread and other baked goods round out a great cuppa joe. Café. B, L. $ Mauka Makai, Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6400. Expect the freshest fish, beef and lamb, vegetable sautés, and island-inspired desserts at this restaurant that celebrates the fishing and farming cultures of ancient Hawai‘i. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$ Merriman’s Kapalua, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 669-6400. Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create some of Maui’s most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, RR. $$–$$$$

2017 BEST ITALIAN

Maui Sugar Shop, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 6620033. Delectable gluten-free, paleo and vegan delights like quiches, Belgian waffles, muffins, cakes and more. Bakery/Café. B, L. $

BEST ITALIAN

Miso Phat Sushi, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana, 669-9010. See South Side listing.

Myths of Maui, Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9119. Enjoy live music, Polynesian dance, and an island-inspired buffet, complete with unearthing of the kalua pig from the imu.

Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$ Old Lāhaina Lū‘au, 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-1998. Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$

As Seen on Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-in’s and Dives

Pacific’O, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341.

Owner Louis Coulombe’s decadent fish tacos and bahn mi sandwiches are memorable lunch fare. For dinner, try the lobster ravioli or coconut-dusted mahi with Thai lemongrass-peanut sauce on black mochi rice. Spectacular oceanfront dining. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Pailolo Bar & Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200.

Poutine, sriracha chicken wings and an Australian wagyu beef burger served al fresco. American. L, D N. $–$$ Penne Pasta, 180 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 6616633. Dig into flavorful, affordable pasta dishes while people-watching from this cozy spot tucked down a Lahaina side street. Kid-friendly. Italian. L, D, N. $$

Kahana - West Maui (808) 669-9010

Kihei - South Maui (808) 891-MISO (6476)

Kahana Manor, 4310 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy #111

Azeka Place Mauka, 1279 South Kihei Road #108

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Pineapple Grill, 200 Kapalua Dr. Kapalua, 6699600. You don’t have to golf to eat here! Try the breakfast chorizo and egg burrito smothered in green chiles and cheddar cheese, or a satisfying grilled mahimahi dinner with glazed asparagus, pickled tomatoes and salsa verde. Expansive offering of reasonably priced wine and beer. B, L, D. $–$$$ Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636. Views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, D. $–$$

Just steps from the water’s edge.

Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!

Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com

The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours.

505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com

Urban & hip neighborhood gathering place serving Italian comfort food.

Located in the heart of Kapalua Resort.

; CRAFT COCKTAILS ; CRAFT TAP BEERS ; ITALIAN INSPIRED WINE SELECTIONS DINNER: 5:30PM TO CLOSING LATE NIGHT BAR & MENU: UNTIL 11PM 808-667-CIAO (2426) TAVERNAMAUI.COM 2000 VILLAGE ROAD KAPALUA RESORT

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dining guide Pizza Paradiso Mediterranean Grill, 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929. Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$

Roy’s, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 6696999. At lunch, line up for the best burger on Maui.

For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled ginger.

Save room for the signature Melting Hot Dark Chocolate Soufflé. Pacific Rim. L, D. $$–$$$$

fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp while the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammywinner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack-key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$

WEST Plantation House Restaurant, 2000 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua, 669-6299. Rock your inner Cajun with ‘Aipono 2017 Chef of the Year Jojo Vasquez’s Kaua‘i shrimp ètouffée, prepared with Adoboloco’s Hamajang hot sauce and scallion-polenta cake with lime crème. Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, L, D. $$$

Prison Street Pizza, 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332. East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Captivating! Italian/Pizza. L, D. $ Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with chocolate almond cake and amarena gelato. Closed Tues–Wed. Italian. D. $$$

Relish Burger Bistro, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525.

All-natural Kobe beef burgers, fish sandwiches, salads with island greens, and huli huli grilled chicken breast, served poolside in an open-air setting. Kid-friendly.

American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Relish Oceanside, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fried rice with Asian-style braised beef, fresh mahi atop luscious and cheesy risotto, and a great kale salad with chunky macadamia nuts. World-class mixology by Fred Sconfienza. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$-$$$

Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Lahaina Center, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 661-8815. Steaks worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earn the chain loyal fans. This venue doesn’t stray from the flock. Several tables overlook the harbor. American. D, N. $$$$ Sale Pepe, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667.

Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta—like Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian/Pizza. D. $$

Sangrita Grill + Cantina, Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 662-6000. South of the Border goes upper crust with queso fundido, chimichangas, enchilada and chile relleno plates, awardwinning rotisserie chicken, and happy hour with muchas buenas prices! Mexican. L, D. $–$$

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286. D.K. Kodama’s restaurant draws lines late into the night. Small and action-packed, this classy sushi bar is the place to try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$ The Sea House Restaurant, Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500.

Start your day with oven-baked pancakes laden with

Son’z Steakhouse, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, ribeye steak, or classically prepared, line-caught mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/Steak. D, N. $$$$

Star Noodle, 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 6675400. Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$

Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors, 226 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 667-9000. Head to the refrigerated section to find a huge selection of fresh ‘ahi poke prepared in Maui’s ethnic flavors of the rainbow: Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Hawaiian, plus poke bowls made to order. Poke. $ Taverna, 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 6672426. House-made pastas, agrodolce-style fish of the day, and Italian desserts that stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Beginning to end, Taverna is a dining heaven. Great wine, cocktails, and exotic craft beer. Italian. D. $$–$$$

Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111. The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Kidfriendly. American. L, D. $

‘Ohana Table at Black Rock Kitchen Relax, talk story and taste delicious local creations at the ‘Ohana Table at Black Rock Kitchen, a family-style dining concept for parties of 8 to 10 guests.

Select a menu and let Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa’s culinary team handle the rest while you enjoy a memorable, interactive dining experience. The ‘Ohana Table menu includes choice of a salad, a starter, two entrees and two desserts, all of which are served family-style.

For reservations, call 808-662-8059 or visit sheraton-maui.com

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dining guide Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600. Start with Oyster Dan—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko— then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate.

Japanese/Steak. D, RR. $$$

chef—including two years as head chef at Morimoto’s Maui—shine through in fresh sashimi and sushi.

Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of each month.

Sushi. D. $-$$

or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. Additional location: Kamaole Shopping Center, 2463 S. Kīhei Rd. American. L, D. $$

Amigo’s, 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9952. See West Side listing.

Cow Pig Bun, 535 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 8758100. If a Brandt premium beef burger slathered in foie gras butter, smoky bourbon-bacon jam and blue cheese makes you want to say, “Moo!” this is the place. Maui-style Comfort Food. L, D, N. $$

T SIDE Tiki Tiki Thai, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-9911/ 283-5202. Filet mignon in creamy Thai chili sauce, chicken panang curry, and many vegetarian selections. Coconut mango sticky rice pudding will plunk you into tropical heaven. Thai. L, D. $–$$

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 819 Front St., Lahaina. Homemade tropical-flavored syrups like liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Additional West Maui locations: Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. Kid-friendly. Treats. $

‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos.

Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, D. $$$ Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525.

Fire dancers ignite the excitement, and hula dancers sway as you enjoy a Polynesian feast. Kid-friendly.

Lū‘au. D. RR. $$$$

Bistro Molokini, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh, local ingredients and served up in this casual, open-air eatery. Kid-friendly.

American. L, D. $$$

Botero Bar, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures that surround it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays— when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. L, D, N. $

Caffe Ciao Deli, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Healthy vegetarian fare, deli sandwiches and spectacular desserts abound at this take-out/eat-in deli. Espresso drinks, baked goods and house-made gelato, too.

American/Italian. B, L, D. $$

SOUTH SHORE

Cheeseburger Grille and Tap Room, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8748990. Hit the king crab and asparagus eggs Benedict for breakfast, head down to the beach for a swim and some sunbathing, then return for burgers and brew at this iconic restaurant. American. B, L, D. $–$$

1054 Togoshi Sushi, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 868-0307. Chef Manabu’s twenty-five years as a sushi

Coconuts Fish Café, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979. Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers

Duo, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Duo reinvents the classic “surf-n-turf.” Japanese Kobe tenderloin (the real thing) and dry-aged rib eye are a carnivore’s delight. Choose a strong wine to match your meat’s performance. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$$$ Fabiani’s Pizzeria & Bakery, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888. Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made pork-sausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. B, L, D. $$ •Second South Shore location: 34 Wailea Gateway Place, Ste.A101, Wailea, 874-1234 D.

Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711. What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked for fifteen hours over kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans, and cabbage slaws: one sweet-tart, one with blue cheese and apples. American. D. $–$$ Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. For lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin

LOCAL FLAVORS EXPRESSED THROUGH CULINARY INNOVATION Sharing food with the people you love is a big part of traditional Hawaiian culture, and our fresh restaurant Ka’ana Kitchen serves up some of Maui’s best dishes family style. So grab your favorite humans, and share farm-to-table cuisine expertly prepared to stimulate your sense of adventure.

CALL US at +1 808 243 4750 to book your reservation.

The trademarks Andaz® and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. © 2016 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2017

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dining guide “Treat your friends like family &

your family like friends” sprouts and cauliflower, tender beef short ribs, and

sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, D. $$$$

5 Palms Restaurant, Mana Kai Resort, 2960 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2607. Ocean waves sweeping the shore enhance your dining experience, as Chef Raul navigates the culinary rim of the Pacific. Lobster eggs Benedict for breakfast, fish tacos for lunch, and seafood and pastas served with style. Kid-friendly.

Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$

—Big Manoli

even saimin. Perfect. Pacific Regional. B, D. $–$$$

sine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock”: three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, D. RR. $$$

“Treat your friends like family & youryour family likelike friends” “Treat friends family & Local Boys Shave Ice, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei,

Humuhumu, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Carpaccio of Japanese hamachi with celery-ginger shaved ice, watermelon salad with Surfing Goat Dairy cheese, crispy mahimahi on forbidden rice . . . love from first bite to last. Pacific Rim. D. $$$$

—Big Manoli your family like 344-9779.

How to chill out infriends” the Islands? Slurp up a Manoli mountain of fruity shave ice served with—Big plantationera-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut) and macadamia-nut ice cream. Treats. $

SOUTH SHO Foodland, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9350.

See West Side listing. Poke. $

Fork & Salad, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8793675. Chef-owners Cody, Travis and Jared serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, gluten- and dairy-free options. International. L, D. $

Four Seasons Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. D, N, RR. $$$$ Gannon’s, 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 8758080. Order drinks at the Red Bar, then enjoy Chef Bev Gannon’s fine comfort food: maple-vinaigrette chicken salad, or venison atop Parmesan risotto.

Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Humble Market Kitchin, Wailea Marriott, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655. Chef Roy Yamaguchi hits it out of the ballpark with kampachi crudo, seasonal Goose Point oysters, roasted Brussels

“Treat your friends like family & your family like friends” Longhi’s Wailea, The Shops at Wailea, 3750

Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Start with grilled Wagyu hanger steak on green papaya salad, then charred octopus with local goat cheese. Next, Kona abalone on creamy risotto, or a modern interpretation of chicken and waffles. There’s a curated wine list with sommeliers to guide you in pairings, and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$

—Big Manoli Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883. Enjoy a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemonfeta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. B, L, D. $$$

“TreatLuana, your friends like family & Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea your friends” Alanui family Dr., Wailea, like 875-2210.

This lobby lounge

Kamana Kitchen, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8797888. Eye-catching art and Indian relics, a prelude to a menu highlighting exotic spices lovingly blended from family recipes. Lunch buffet. Indian. L. D. $–$$ Kihei Caffe, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8792230. Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.? Head down to this surfer hangout and load up on banana mac-nut pancakes, loco moco, and a cuppa joe. Café. B, L. $–$$

Da Kitchen, Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782. The Hawaiian plate feeds three normal appetites or one sumo-size eater. Plate-lunch favorites like chicken katsu, tempura fish, and Korean mixed plate won’t leave you wanting. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $ Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Plantation Era cui-

—Big Manoli reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings.

Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kalua-pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce, and lomilomi tomato paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$ Manoli’s Pizza Company, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499. Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppini or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna. Italian/Pizza. L, D, N. $$

The Market, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 8792433. Fresh-baked bread, breakfast, salads to go, plus charcuterie. Deli. B, L, D. $$ Matteo’s Osteria, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466. Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage,

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OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT

OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT Happy Hour From 3 pm - 6 pm & 9 pm - 12 am | 100 Wailea Ike Drive Happy Hour From 3 pm - 6 pm & 9 pm - 12 am | 100 Wailea Ike Drive Located across from the Wailea Blue Golf Course Pro Shop Located across from the Wailea Blue Golf Course Pro Shop OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT TAKEOUT & DELIVERY: 808.874.7499

Happy Hour From 3 pm -DAILY 6 pm & pm- 808.874.7499 - 12MIDNIGHT am | 100 Wailea Ike Drive OPEN 119AM 12 TAKEOUT & DELIVERY: | 100 Wailea Happy Houracross From 3from pm -the 6 pm & 9 pm amCourse Ike Drive Located Wailea Blue- 12 Golf Pro Shop

Happy Hour from 3pm–6pm & 9pm–12am

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TAKEOUT & DELIVERY: 808.874.7499

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Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8916476. Sushi served on site, to go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! Japanese. L, D. $$

ORE

Monkeypod Kitchen, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322. Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and banana-cream pie.

Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, N. $$ Morimoto Maui, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Iron Chef’s Masaharu Morimoto offers signature and Maui-centric dishes like rib-eye beef burgers and lobster roll sandwiches. Dinner catches fire with prix fixe omakase.

Handcrafted mixology and a dazzling selection of sakés. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $$$$ Mulligans on the Blue, 100 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 874-1131. Maui’s only Irish-owned pub serves up fish and chips, grilled bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie. Or try the chopped salad with bacon, blue cheese and tomatoes. Guinness poured properly, great music to get you foot-stompin’ happy, and sports-bar action, too. Sláinte! Irish. L, D, N. $–$$$ Nalu’s South Shore Grill, Azeka Shopping Center, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650. Generous portions and locally sourced ingredients served with aloha. ‘Ahi club with smoked bacon, and fresh fish and chips will have you coming back for more.

Burgers? Yes! American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ Nick’s Fishmarket, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-7224. Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. D, RR. $$$$ Nutcharee’s Thai Food, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840. The flavors of Thailand never get boring when Nutcharee is cooking! Start with ahi laab tartare salad, or the popular crispy fish mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D. $–$$ Ono Gelato Kīhei & The Maui Sandwich Shack Cafe, Azeka Shopping Center, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 495-0287. Gelato heaven—and that’s not all.

Get your deli fix at this hidden gem: pastrami piled high on marbled rye, and salad wraps to satisfy everyone in your party. Deli/Treats. L, D, $–$$ Pā‘ia Fish Market South Side, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888. The same yummy menu that for years has hooked surfers and families in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei, too. See North Shore listing.

Piko Café and Restaurant, 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 793-2671. Fried rice or buttermilk pancakes for breakfast, bento lunches for the beach, plus dry mein, waffle dogs, burgers, katsu, killer salads, and a signature dessert: haupia-chia-ube pudding. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L. $

The Pint & Cork, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 727-2038. The best mac-and-cheese with black truffles, deviled eggs Rockefeller, poke bowls and burgers.

International. B (Sat & Sun), L, D, N. $–$$

Two exciting farm tours in one unique setting

GOURMET LUNCH

SEED to CUP

Explore our gardens and enjoy a gourmet lunch prepared in your presence with freshly harvested natural produce.

Learn about the growing and roasting of coffee beans and conclude with the “perfect cappuccino” .

TOURS ARE WEEKDAYS 8:30 a.m. and 10:30 a.m.

O’o Farm is the exclusive farm for Pacific’O Restaurant in Lahaina

By Reservation only: 808.667.4341 • www.oofarm.com Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2017

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dining guide Pizza Madness,1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 2709888. This family-style restaurant serves Cobb salad, hot and cold deli sandwiches with chips and a pickle, some of the best pizza this side of the Pacific, and pasta, too. Italian/Pizza L, D. $–$$ The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224. Produce from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients you’ll find in any restaurant.

Add Chef Zach Sato’s culinary talents and a gorgeous outdoor setting, and you have a night made in heaven. European-inspired. D, N. $$-$$$$

next to an award-winning aquarium, Seascape serves up great harbor views with a side of sweet aloha.

Mahimahi sandwiches with fresh cabbage slaw, halfpound burgers and veggie selections. Save room for the Maui Mud Pie: coffee ice cream topped with fudge, on a buttery cookie-crumb crust. American. L (daily), D (Sat/Sun only). $$–$$$

prime rib. For lunch, try Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen; for dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Pacific Rim/Southwest. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983. Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbeaninspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, D, N. $–$$

SOUTH SHORE Roasted Chiles, Azeka Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357. Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, D. $–$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8948880. See West Side listing.

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004. See West Side listing.

Sarento’s on the Beach, 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555. Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, D. RR. $–$$$ Seascape Restaurant, Maui Ocean Center, 192 S. Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7068. Located

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Shearwater Tavern, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 7932324. Gastropub food and drink have never been finer, as partners D.K. Kodama and Chuck Furuya tag team the bar and kitchen to create a venue worth the trek. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$ South Shore Tiki Lounge, Kīhei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-6444. Gourmet pizza, burgers, salads, and several vegetarian items round out this hip bar’s menu. American. L, D, N. $

Spago, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Wolfgang Puck’s ‘ōpakapaka sashimi and perfectly seared Kobe beef match the trendsetting wine list note for note. Spectacular sunsets may as well be on the menu. Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$

Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors, 91 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 891-2420. See West Side listing. Poke. $ Thailand Cuisine, 1819 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8750839. Gracious waitstaff greet you with a steaming pot of vanilla tea. Sticky rice served in a woven Thai basket complements the flavorful red duck, lobster, or tofu curries. Thai. L, D. $–$$ Three’s Bar & Grill, 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133. Three’s serves eggs Benedict six different ways, like seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and

Trilogy Excursions’ Sunset Dinner Sail, Mā‘alaea Harbor, 661-4743. Board a luxury catamaran for Chef Bailey’s four-course dinner. Choose rosemarygarlic-crusted steak on roasted garlic demi-glace, wild-caught mahimahi with lemon caper butter, or vegetarian pasta. Open bar with cocktails, wine, and Maui Brewery selections. American. D. RR. $$$$

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei. See West Side listing.

CENTRAL Amigo’s, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 872-9525. See West Side listing.

Aria’s Restaurant & Catering, 2062 W. Vineyard St., Wailuku, 242-2742. Luscious sandwiches, salads, and entrèes like braised chocolate chipotle lamb shank with maizena. American/Pacific Rim. B (Sat–Sun), L, D (Mon–Sat). $–$$ Bistro Casanova, 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 8733650. This downtown bistro branches out from its

C

E

dining guide Upcountry sister, adding paella for two, fresh-cut French fries, and burrata Caprese to the menu.

Mediterranean. L, D. $-$$ Café O’Lei, The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073. Mac-nut-crusted chicken, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites, served beside a links-style golf course overlooking West Maui’s mountain. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Da Kitchen, Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782. See South Shore listing.

Maui Fresh Streatery, 344-7929. Chef Kyle Kawakami rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L. $ The Mill House at Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333.

Dine at the coffee shop, restaurant, or weekend chef’s table, and discover some of Maui’s most creative culinary fare, from creamy coconut jook with Kula Farm green beans, to beef ragu gnocchi with thyme curd. Chef Jeff Scheer’s harmony of flavors will woo you back for more. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $–$$$

Thai Mee Up, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369. Great Thai cuisine from a food truck? Who would have guessed? Thai. L, D. $ Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 893-0026. See West Side listing.

Tin Roof Maui, 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 8680753. Sheldon Simeon of Bravo TV’s Top Chef fame lets you build your own kau kau bowl with his savory offerings: sweet Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter and kochujang sauce; seared furikake-crusted fish with wasabi mayo and soy, and more. Pacific Rim. L. $

CENTRAL Farmacy Health Bar, 12 Market St., Wailuku, 866-4312. Pono means excellence, which perfectly describes their pono bowl: kale salad atop quinoa and tofu. Taro veggie burgers and poi açai bowls with fresh fruit are delicious spins on a local staple. Call in your order to expedite service. Vegan, Takeout Only. B, L. $ Fatt Chicks Burgers, Brews & Grill, 200 Halewaiu Rd., Waiehu, 242-6666. The nineteenth hole never tasted so good! Kim chee loco moco, bountiful salads and ‘ono burgers. Nuff said! Go eat! Pacific Regional. B, L. $

Foodland, 90 Kane St., Kahului, 877-2808.

See West Side listing. Additional Central Maui locations: 370 Kehalani Village Dr., Wailuku, 244-4460; Sack N Save, 790 Eha St., Wailuku, 244-0356. Poke. $

Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-2877. Eclectic art and brightly painted tables decorate this popular gathering spot. At Happy Cappy Hour, 2 p.m. to closing, cappuccinos are $2.

Coffee Shop. B, L. $

Las Piñatas, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 877-8707.

Home of the famous Kitchen Sink burrito, plus tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas, and a self-serve salsa bar. Ole! Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $

TJ’s Warehouse, 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 2447311. Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves up plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and a hot line of daily specials, such as potato croquettes, nishime and poke, too. Asian. B, L. $

Poi by the Pound, 385 Ho‘ohana St., Kahului, 283-9381. Eat like a local. Hawaiian. L, D. $

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku.

A Saigon Cafe, 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 2439560. Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot, the Vietnamese burrito, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D. $

Wailuku Coffee Company, 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259. Espresso, ice cream and sandwiches are served in a relaxed setting. Coffee Shop. B, L. $

Sam Sato’s, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2447124. This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L. $

Whole Foods Market, Maui Mall, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 872-3310. All things fresh and healthy. Order from the deli or construct your own meal from the salad and hot-food bars. Get it to go, or dine here inside or out. B, L, D. $

Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors, 199 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 873-8000. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: Tamura’s Express, 841 Alua St., Wailuku, 242-0957. Poke. $

Zing, Main Street Promenade, 2050 Main St., Wailuku, 244-3707. Soups and sandwiches served

Feeding your soul never tasted so good.

Open for breakfast lunch and dinner.

call us at 808-579-8877

1813 Baldwin Avenue, Makawao, Hawaii | 96768 w w w.lumeriamaui.com

LUMERIA Maui

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UPCOUNTRY with fresh local greens, but a favorite with diners is the portobello mushroom and bacon burger . . . need we say more? American. B, L. $

UPCOUNTRY

Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli, 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220. Order a tartufo pizza or carbonara pasta at this Upcountry institution. Kid-friendly. Italian/Pizza. B, L, D. $$

Farmacy Health Bar, Pukalani Terrace Center, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 868-0443. See Central listing.

Foodland, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 5720674. See West Side listing. Poke. $

Kula Bistro, 4566 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 8712960. Big fat sandwiches on focaccia, Upcountry salad greens with house balsamic vinaigrette, and buttery scallop appetizers will have you swooning.

Fresh-fish entrèes and juicy burgers, too. American/ Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$

Lumeria’s Wooden Crate, 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579-8877. Only the freshest produce and proteins go on the menu at this restaurant nestled on the grounds of a boutique property. For dinner, try the grilled fresh catch or braised Maui tempeh with basil, kaffir lime and coconut curry sauce.

Fall in love with the papaya with coconut cardamom cream and candied mac nuts. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$–$$$$

Grandma’s Coffee House, 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140. The eggs Benedict and made-fromscratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion. Coffee Shop. B, L, Snacks. $–$$

O’o Farm, 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour.

Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and fresh-roasted coffee in this bucolic setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L. $$$$

Hāli‘imaile General Store, 900 Hāli‘imaile Rd., Hāli‘imaile, 572-2666. Chef Bev Gannon dishes up fresh fish, local meats, and regional produce drenched in complex sauces. The towering sashimi appetizer is legendary. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$– $$$$

Polli’s Mexican Restaurant, 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-7808. The sign outside says, “Come in and eat, or we’ll both starve!” Follow that advice to find entrées like kitchen-sink burritos and grilled carne asada plates with refried beans and Spanish rice.

Mexican. L, D. $$

Kojima’s Sushi, 81 Makawao Ave., Pukalani, 573-2859. This third-generation, family-owned restaurant offers classic and modern sushi, combination bentos with teriyaki salmon, and California rolls consistently served with aloha. Sushi. D. $–$$

La Provence, 5355 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 8781313. The glass case overflows with perfect croissants, fruit tarts, and arguably the world’s best blueberrymango scones. On weekends, muscle past longdistance cyclists to order a Benedict or salmon-pesto

At Ululani's, we make 100% of our ice and syrup with purified water, pure cane sugar, premium fruit purees, fruit juices and select concentrates to create a truly memorable gourmet shave ice experience.

over 3200 reviews

over 4400 reviews

FIVE MAUI LOCATIONS: 61 S. Kīhei Road, Kīhei 333 Dairy Road, Kahului 58 Maui Lani Parkway, Wailuku 790 Front Street, Lahaina Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa, 200 Nohea Ka Drive, Kā'anapali

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crêpe. No credit cards. French/Bakery. B (WedFri), BR (Sat-Sun), L (Wed-Fri), D (Thur-Sun). $

Ulupalakua Ranch Store & Grill, 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561. Across from Maui Winery, find great deli fare, and hot-off-the-grill lamb burger with tzatziki, grass-fed elk, venison or beef burgers. Plus homestyle chili and rice, or kalua pork plate lunch. American. L, D. $

NORTH SHORE

Café Des Amis, 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 5796323. Savory crêpes are served with wild greens and sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney and raita, Indian yogurt sauce. Dine indoors or out.

Kid-friendly. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $ Colleen’s at the Cannery, 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211. Sink into a comfy booth and enjoy a roasted eggplant sandwich on homemade bread.

The pizza is a well-loved standard. Kid-friendly.

American/Pizza. B, L, D. $–$$.

Flatbread Company, 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989. Big booths, charity nights, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies make this a North Shore institution. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$ Greek Oven, 810 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9752.

The buzz keeps going about this quaint café tucked inside an old factory. Breakfast without bougatsa (buttery filo dough filled with semolina custard) would be sacrilegious. Plus fresh-baked breads and pastry, spanakopita, moussaka and freddo cafe. Greek. B, L. $

ANA & LANA‘

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Jaws Country Store, 4320 Hāna Hwy., Ha‘ikū, 419-6887. Chef Koa serves a poached egg open-faced on sourdough toast, layered with tomato, caramelized onions and pesto all day. Or try a poke bowl with mac nuts, avo, Maui onions and “secret-kine” stuff. Ingredients are produced on-site, including the pastrami and pickles. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $

Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488. Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine.

Every detail evokes old-time island hospitality. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, RR. $$–$$$$

Nuka, 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939. Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Tempura shrimp udon is light and crispy. Save room for blacksesame or green-tea ice cream. Japanese. D. $$–$$$ Pā‘ia Fish Market, 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 5798030. The huge slabs of fresh fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $ Paia Inn Café, 93 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-6004.

Strawberry-papaya parfaits, ‘ahi eggs Benedict, and a delicious (and photo-worthy) cheese platter served with honeycomb to sweeten the deal. Originality shines at the Inn. International. B, BR. $–$$

GOLD Most Innovative Menu SILVER Restaurant of the Year

HĀNA

Barefoot Café, 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732.

Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or mahimahi plate lunch to go. Pacific Rim. B, L. $

Hāna Burger Food Truck at Hāna Ranch, 5670 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 268-2820. Grass-finished beef burgers, fish sandwiches and salads. Call for hours.

American/Food Truck. L. $

The Preserve Kitchen + Bar, Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401. Hānasourced produce and fish are the basis for an original menu by Chef Isabelle Toland. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juices and sours. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $–$$$

ISLAND OF LĀNA‘I

Lāna‘i ‘Ohana Poke Market, 834A Gay St., Lāna‘i City, 808-559-6265. Tucked down a side street off Dole Park, this no-frills venue serves great local grinds like spicy poke bowls with furikake, and teri beef combo plate lunches. Hawaiian. L. $

One Forty, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., 808-565-2000. Begin your day with creamy baked oatmeal or grilled ‘ahi with chipotle-hollandaise eggs Benedict. For dinner, try Chef Kemar Durfield’s beef filet with lobster-mashed potatoes; or moi, the fish of Hawaiian royalty, with taro gnocchi, papaya and pohole salad. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$–$$$$ The Sports Bar, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Rd., 808-565-2499. Platters overflowing with baba ganoush, hummus, tabouleh and feta; and not-to-bemissed Jidori chicken wings with creamy blue-cheese dip. Long-simmered Lāna‘i venison ragout over pappardelle will prepare you for your day on the greens.

Mediterranean. L, D. $$–$$$ More listings: MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

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calendar

Looking for more? Visit MauiMagazine.net/maui-events

July Clockwise from top left: July 21–23, Sesame Street Live; July 29, MayJah RayJah; July 2, Maui Taiko; through July 16, Piero Resta; July 1, Everclear

THROUGH JULY 22

Kaluanui Centennial: 10x10 Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center Kaluanui celebrates 100 years with an exhibition that challenges artists to create two- and threedimensional works within a space of 10”x10”x10”.

One hundred pieces will be selected for display.

Gallery hours: 9 a.m.–4 p.m. Opening reception: May 26, 5–7 p.m. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; HuiNoeau.com

DAILY

Native Plant Guided Tour Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Brochures for self-guided walking tours are included with the price of admission and docent-led group tours are $10 per person (by appointment only). All tours cover the natural history, conservation and ancient uses of native Hawaiian and Polynesian-introduced plants. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

THROUGH AUGUST 26

The One Puka-Puka: The Purple Heart Battalion Nisei Veterans Memorial Center “One Puka Puka” is the pidgin nickname for the 100th Infantry Battalion, a World War II unit composed almost entirely of Japanese-American soldiers. Through photos and stories, this exhibit celebrates the nisei (second-generation) soldiers who fought so courageously in Europe that they became known as the Purple Heart Battalion.

Monday–Friday, noon–4 p.m. 665 Kahului Beach Road, Kahului; 244-6862; nvmc.org

ONGOING

Discover Old Hawai‘i Lahaina Town Journey back in time and learn about Hawaiians’ sustainable way of life while making your own keepsakes under the guidance of cultural experts.

MauiNei.com

THROUGH JULY 2

Makawao Rodeo Saddle up for this annual Fourth of July tradition as the state’s top cowboys and cowgirls compete in bull riding, steer chasing, calf roping and more.

For details, call the Maui Roping Club at 757-3347.

Oskie Rice Arena, 80 Ohaoha Pl., Makawao

1

25th Annual Lāna‘i Pineapple Festival Dole Park, Lāna‘i City, Island of Lāna‘i Lāna‘i’s sweet celebration of its plantation heritage features pineapple dishes and exhibits, vendors and local performers, crafts, games and prizes, concluding with a fireworks show. 2–9 p.m.

LanaiPineappleFestival.com

THROUGH JULY 16

Piero Resta: Illuminatus Schaefer International Gallery, MACC This retrospective exhibition honors an artist whose life’s work was infused with a passion for and transcendence in natural and mythological worlds. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 244-8760; MauiArts.org

1

FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES

Each week, a different Maui town hosts music, artists’ demos, children’s activities and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m.

It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike.

Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com

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Jeff Peterson Makawao History Museum Nā Hōkū Hanohano winner Jeff Peterson is one of Hawai‘i’s most versatile guitarists, performing slack-key, classical and jazz. Peterson has con-

July 7, Aug 4 First Friday Wailuku

July 14, Aug 11 Second Friday Lahaina

July 21, Aug 18 Third Friday Makawao

July 28, Aug 25 Fourth Friday Kīhei

OBON FESTIVAL Each weekend in summer, a different Buddhist temple on Maui invites everyone to share in this tradition of honoring the ancestors with dance, taiko drumming, food and festivities.

Call individual temples for details.

Jul. 1 Jul. 7-8 Jul. 14-15 Jul. 21-22 Jul. 28-29 Aug. 4-5 Aug. 11-12 Aug. 19 Aug. 26

Lahaina Jodo Pā‘ia Mantokuji Kahului Hongwanji Makawao Hongwanji Kahului Jodo Wailuku Hongwanji Lahaina Hongwanji Pā‘ia Rinzai Zen Kula Shofukuji

661-4304 579-8051 871-4732 572-7229 871-4911 244-0406 661-0640 579-9921 661-0466

tributed to two Grammy Award-winning albums.

9–11 a.m. 3643 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 5722482; MakawaoMuseum.org

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Everclear Castle Theater, MACC It’s been two decades since Everclear released their 1997 multiplatinum smash, So Much for the Afterglow, yet the album remains a favorite, inspiring a new generation of fans. 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 244-8760; MauiArts.org

1

–AUGUST 22

Summer Colors: Paint, Kapa and Bamboo Viewpoints Gallery This exhibit features new works by Denby Freeland-Cole, Charissa Brock, William Houston, Kirk Kurokawa, and Suzy Papanikolas. Opening reception July 1, 5 p.m. For our story on Denby FreelandCole, see page 52. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; ViewpointsGalleryMaui.com

2

Maui Taiko Anniversary Concert Castle Theater, MACC This anniversary celebration includes drummers from Maui, New York and Japan. 2 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 244-8760; MauiArts.org

8

Volunteer Day Waihe‘e Coastal Dunes & Wetlands Refuge Nurture your nature and join Hawaiian Islands

COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

J U LY

Land Trust to manage a hau grove located at the refuge. 8 a.m.–noon. 281-6860; hilt.org

ui a M

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–9, 22–23, AUGUST 18–20

Fine Art Fair Banyan Tree Park Browse paintings, ceramics, photography, jewelry, carvings and more under the banyan tree next to the Old Lahaina Courthouse. Sponsored by Lahaina Arts Society. 9 a.m.–5 p.m. 648 Wharf St., Lahaina; 661-0111; LahainaArts.com

14

Andy McKee McCoy Studio Theater, MACC McKee transforms the steel-string guitar into an entire orchestra through his use of altered tunings, tapping, partial capos, percussive hits, and a signature two-handed technique. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 244-8760; MauiArts.org

y 14

The Largest Selection of Oceanfront Vacation Condominiums Lahaina • Ka’anapali • Kahana • Napili • Kapalua

RATES AS LOW AS $95/NIGHT

–AUGUST 6

9 to 5 The Musical Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui OnStage presents this musical based on the 1980 hit movie about three female coworkers who concoct a plan to get even with their boss. Fridays & Saturdays, 7:30 p.m.; Sundays, 3 p.m. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-6969; MauiOnStage.com

16

Run ‘Īao This 10K run leads into scenic ‘Īao Valley State Park, beginning and ending in Wailuku. 7:30 a.m. Wailuku Municipal Parking Lot off Vineyard St., Wailuku; Virr.com

855-836-0619 www.westmauicondos.com • info@chasenrainbows.com

21-23

Sesame Street Live: Elmo Makes Music!

Castle Theater, MACC When the new music teacher’s instruments go missing, Elmo, Abby Cadabby, Big Bird and more of the Sesame Street gang come to the rescue. Friday, 6:30 p.m.; Saturday, 10:30 a.m., 2 & 5:30 p.m.; Sunday, 1 & 4:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

21-30

Disney’s Mulan Jr. Seabury Hall Maui Academy of Performing Arts brings ancient China to life with hit songs and a story packed with action, humor and heart. MauiAcademy.org

22

Kaluanui Centennial Festival & Family Day Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center Celebrate 100 years of Kaluanui at this free event.

Interact with local artists, learn the history of this iconic property, and enjoy music, items from local food trucks, and more. 10 a.m.–2 p.m. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; HuiNoeau.com

22-23

Imu Workshop Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Ikaika Nakanishi offers hands-on instruction in how to create and use an imu (Hawaiian underground oven). Traditional recipes included. 10 a.m.–7 p.m.

150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

23

Introduction to Kapa Arts Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center Kapa expert Dalani Tanahy discusses the historic importance and near demise of Hawaiian kapa.

She’ll prepare plant dyes, teach proper gathering methods and protocols, and share designs unique to Hawaiian kapa. Participants will create their

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Molokai2Oahu Paddleboard World Championships Kaluako‘i Beach, Moloka‘i Paddleboarders from around the world test their endurance and skill in this 32-mile race across the Ka‘iwi Channel. Race starts at 7:30 a.m. Molokai 2Oahu.com

AUGUST

11

‘Aipono Wine Dinner Longhi’s Wailea The great wines of Spain take the stage at the next ‘Aipono Wine Dinner. Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants will present wines from Spain’s classic wine regions— paired with a special tapas-style menu by Longhi’s Executive Chef Paul Goodwin. In addition, guest host Victor Ordonez of Grupo Jorge Ordonez of Spain will showcase his family’s wines. A portion of sales benefits UH-Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program.

7 p.m. The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea. Reservations: 891-8883

LEFT: COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER; RIGHT: JOSE MORALES

AUGUST HIGHLIGHT

August 5

Kalo Workshop Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Namea Hoshino teaches how to cultivate, prepare, and cook all parts of the kalo (taro) plant.

9 a.m.–noon. $50; $25 for MNBG members. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

Rita Rudner, July 28

own kapa-inspired muslin bag to take home. Preregistration required. 9 a.m. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; HuiNoeau.com

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Rita Rudner McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Known for her epigrammatic one-liners, Rudner opened as one of the hottest comedians in Las Vegas in June 2000, and has been a house-filling favorite ever since. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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The MayJah RayJah A&B Amphitheater, MACC This annual Island and reggae music festival features SOJA, Katchafire, and other local favorites.

5 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

6

America Castle Theater, MACC The power and poignancy of America’s musical imagery catapulted the group to the top of the charts in the ’70s with hits including “Horse with No Name,” “Ventura Highway,” and “I Need You.” 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

6

–OCTOBER 1

Spineless: Portraits of Marine Invertebrates — the Backbone of Life Schaefer International Gallery, MACC Acclaimed nature photographer Susan Middleton presents a new body of work that explores the mysterious world of marine invertebrates—underwater animals without backbones. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

12

Huliau Food & Film Festival Sugar Beach Events Wine, dine, and view student-produced, foodthemed films at this fundraiser for the nonprofit Maui Huliau Foundation, which empowers local youth through environmental education. Enjoy farm-to-table food stations, live music, entertainment, and a silent auction. Ages 21-and-older welcome. 85 N. Kīhei Road, Kīhei; 757-2100; Maui HuliauFoundation.org

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S P O N S O R S H I P O P P O R T U N I T I E S AVA I L A B L E

12

Augus

TriLanai City Run Dole Park, Lāna‘i City, Island of Lāna‘i Step up to the start line for this 5K, 10K, or halfmarathon race that begins and ends at Dole Park.

9:30 a.m. TriLanai.com

t

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Maui Chamber Orchestra & Chorus Castle Theater, MACC Enjoy an afternoon of French elegance as the Maui Chamber Orchestra presents music by Impressionist masters Maurice Ravel and Claude Debussy, along with Gabriel Fauré, who influenced them both. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

18

Maui Calls A&B Amphitheater, MACC The MACC’s signature fundraiser features live entertainment and gourmet treats prepared by local chefs. Bid on hundreds of items, from art and jewelry to golf and travel packages, during live and silent auctions. 6–10 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

19

Hāna Cultural Center Ho‘olaule‘a Hāna Fairgrounds, below Hāna Ranch Store This free event features cultural demonstrations, live music, farmers’ market, food booths, vendors and more. 9 a.m.–4 p.m. HanaCulturalCenter.org

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–SEPTEMBER 3

The Hunchback of Notre Dame Castle Theater, MACC An epic tale of love, acceptance, and what it means to be a hero, this new musical features songs from the film’s Academy Award-nominated score. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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26

Ke Alahele Education Fund Dinner & Auction Fairmont Kea Lani Maui Economic Development Board’s annual fundraiser supports programs in science, technology, engineering and math for students throughout Maui County. A reception with silent auction starts at 4:30 p.m. Dinner and live auction at 6 p.m. 4100 Wailea Alanui, Wailea; 875-2300; medb.org

26

Lā ‘Ulu (Breadfruit Day) Maui Nui Botanical Gardens This inaugural ‘ulu festival will include live entertainment, cooking demonstrations, Hawaiian cultural activities and a plant sale. Presented by Ulupono Initiative, Maui Breadfruit Company and Maui Nui Botanical Gardens. Free admission. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

SEPTEMBER

SEPTEMBER 1–3

Maui Chefs Invitational Mill House Restaurant Chefs from around the country will gather for this gastronomic celebration with multicourse feasts on Friday and Saturday, and an outdoor barbecue Sunday. 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū; 270-0333; MauiChefsInvitational.com Email your event to Calendar@Maui Magazine.net, or submit it online at MauiMagazine.net/maui-events. Listings for MNKO’s September–October 2017 print edition must be received by July 14. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.

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who’s who

The 2017 ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards

Some 480 guests gathered for an evening of fine dining and celebration at the largest ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards Gala in the event’s fifteen-year history. Held on April 23, the “Out of this World” party transformed the Hyatt Regency Maui into a realm from beyond, with costumes, a galactic light show, glowing decor, cosmic face painting, an interactive photo booth, and more. The annual banquet honors the island’s top restaurants and culinary professionals, as voted by the readers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi. ‘Aipono raises funds for UH– Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program, and provides an invaluable real-world mentoring opportunity for our future chefs. A special mahalo to this year’s sponsors, who helped make the event a success: Hyatt Regency Maui, MOBI/Time Group, Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, Maui Hotel & Lodging Association, Pacific Biodiesel/Maui EKO Systems, and Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center.

Visit MauiMagazine.net/aipono2017 for videos of our special award winners.

Guests had a world of fun with the photo booth, courtesy of Epic Entertainment Hawaii. From left: Adelle Lennox, Mike Quirk | Michael & Katherine Haynes | Clockwise from top left: Lynn Araki-Regan, Jennifer Nguyen, Carol Reimann, Joyce Harris, Jason Chau, Keith Regan | Amy Erickson & Juicy ZANE MATHIAS

From left: Tables armed with glowing chopsticks awaited guests in the ballroom | Face painters helped attendees get in an alien mode | Mini geodesic structures adorned cocktail tables covered with iridescent fabric | Naia Newlight offered readings from beyond | The Hyatt’s newly renovated Halona Kai lawn served as launchpad for the sunset reception.

Students and chef/instructors from UH–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program dished out stellar pūpū. From left: Chef Kane Carbonneau’s chilled corn soup with pickled Kaua‘i shrimp | Chef Tom Lelli’s team created the seared salmon, red lentil dal and Harissa yogurt | Chef Noel Cleary’s team prepared Kaua‘i shrimp and pork potstickers.

From left: Chef Craig Omori (in striped apron) guided students in preparing ginger-cured kampachi with shiso radish slaw and citrus soy gel in crunchy, edible scoops | Chef Theresa Shurilla & John Giordani | Hali‘imaile Distillery’s “Outer Limits” cocktail made with its own FID Street gin | Chef Jake Belmonte’s baby octopus with chermoula and puffed couscous

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Photography by Mieko Horikoshi MauiMagazine.net

From left: MNKO publisher Diane Woodburn & husband Jamie Woodburn | Alex & Diane Stanislaw | Maui Academy of Perfoming Arts students helped raise money for UH–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program | Pacific Biodiesel’s Joy Galatro & Janice Alejandro | Mark & Kate Beaman

From left: Darren & Amy Strand | Taylor Ponte & Natasha Joslin | Francine Ching, Ahren Uyeda, Joy & Shawn Steadman | Eliza & Jojo Vasquez | Tanya Doyle, Alvin Savella & Caroline Villanueva

From left: Erin Pickering & Chef Eric Morrissette | Clifford Nae‘ole offered a pule (prayer) | Hyatt Regency GM Fred Findlen | Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy gave a hearty toast | Maui Food Innovation Center ‘Aipono Award recipient Michelle Valentin of Maui Raw with Mayor Alan Arakawa & Toni Rojas of award cosponsor Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center

From left: Taverna’s Chris & Debby Kaiwi & Lynn & Roger Stettler | Chayce Cardenas & Danielle Sulliban, two winners of Maui Hotel & Lodging Association scholarships | Jeff Scheer, Mike Atherton & Francesco Greco of Maui Tropical Plantation accepted the Excellence in Sustainability award | Kō’s Christopher Hong & Tylun Pang | Tin Roof’s Sheldon & Janice Simeon

From left: Diane Woodburn presented Maui Nō Ka‘Oi scholarships to UH–Maui College students Marion Sidong & Danielle Soriano | Costume contest contestants | ‘Aipono Icon award winners Michael Moore, Robert Aguiar and Tim Moore | Friend of Agriculture award winners Travis Morrin, Jaron Blosser & Cody Christopher of Fork & Salad | Emcee Dean Wong

Old Lahaina Lū‘au took Gold for Best Lū‘au. From left: Chef Craig Masuda, Kerri Aotaki, Kawika Freitas, James Cacl | Japengo’s Courtney Geiser, Jin Hosono & Gevin Utrillo | Title sponsor Mobi PCS’s Nicholas Aldi with iPhone door-prize winner | Monkeypod Kitchen won numerous awards—including Restaurant of the Year. From left, back row: Joel Nishijo, Luke Cartegena, Victor Daniel Mendez Cruz, Debbie Wong, Tim Grant, Tiana Elaban, Tori Hudson; front row: Brandon LaClair, Jeff Hudson

Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at Facebook.com/MauiMagazine.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jul–Aug 2017

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who’s who FANTASIA BALL | Hyatt Regency Maui | April 18, 2017 | Benefit for Imua Family Services

From left: Jonathan & Debra Aber, Matt Aber | Jennifer Nakasone, Nāpua Greig-Nakasone, Ka‘ilihiwa Greig | April Page, Amy VanQuaethem, Dean Wong, Lisa Donlon, Veronica Long

importers & distributors of the world’s finest wines

Lynn Kopyciensky, Belinda DeWild, Bonny Ponting | Kanoa & Ashley Leahey, John Takatani, Grant & Jenna Nakama

Gunars & JoRene Valkir, Jiwoo Sin, Brian Kakihara | Tammy Browning, Gene Awakuni, Leslie Ann Yokouchi, Dean Wong

DARIUS TAJ

At Chambers & Chambers we are fortunate and humbled to serve Hawaii’s thriving wine and restaurant scenes. With a focus on quality and authenticity, we look for not only exceptional wine in the bottle, but also exceptional people behind the wines.

‘AIPONO WINE DINNER | Son’z Steakhouse | April 14, 2017 Benefit for UH–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program

global portfolio knowledgable team exceptional service From letft: Laurie & Ken Clark | Chef Geno Sarmiento | Sharyn Yee & Christina Yumul | Sherry & Brad Eichhorst

From left: Bill & Nancy Cross | Jayne & Fred Findlen | Jeremiah Allen & Charles Fredy | Jim & Cathy Maxwell

@chamberswineshi @ChambersWinesHI

Serving Hawaii’s Restaurant & Fine Wine Community Since 1979 www.chamberswines.com

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MauiMagazine.net

From left: Martin & Debbie Wyand | Mary Anne Fitch, Thomas & Eva Maria Kafsack | Kim & Rick Lewis

Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at Facebook.com/MauiMagazine.

MIEKO PHOTOGRAPHY

@ChambersWinesHawaii

FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2017 1:30 PM - 6 PM Exclusive Shopping Day

Get a one-day head start on your shopping!

Opening ceremonies at 4pm with light pupus.

• Free Festival tote for event attendees.

• Chance to win a “Maui Getaway Travel Package.”

• Cost: $35 per person, children 12 & under free.

• Tickets available at the MACC box office.

• •

Buyers Preview

Free entry for qualified and registered wholesale buyers and distributors. Visit our website to register.

y’s t n u i Co ! u a M w o r h o s f ts us c u n i d o J pro t s e larg

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2017 8 AM - 4:30 PM The Big Festival Day!

Showcasing a wide variety of made in Maui County products including food, produce, arts, crafts, gifts, apparel, jewelry, furniture, and collectibles.

• Vendor product demonstrations.

• Fashion show featuring vendors’ products.

• Food Court with a dozen of Maui’s food trucks.

• First 2,000 attendees receive a free Festival tote.

• Prize drawings throughout the day.

• Cost: $5 (at the gate), children 12 & under free.

•

PRESENTED BY:

#MIMCF2017 For more information, visit www.MadeInMauiCountyFestival.com

a perfect day on maui

Central Attractions

Follow your local guide and make the most of Maui. Story and photos by Lehia Apana Locals know some of the best exploring on Maui happens in our own backyard. Case in point: Wailuku. Located in the Central Valley at the foot of West Maui’s mountain, the town was named county seat for Maui, Moloka‘i, Lāna‘i and Kaho‘olawe in 1905, but its history is far older. You’ll need a ride to reach some of these sites; others are a cakewalk through town.

Sam Sato’s

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8 a.m. Hiking with a view doesn’t get much better than the 2.5-mile (round trip) Waihe‘e Ridge Trail. The catch: You’ll have to work for it. This out-and-back trail is steep, climbing more than 1,500 feet before rewarding you with a panorama of miles of emerald vegetation. Smart hikers go early to take advantage of cooler temperatures. 7 a.m.– 7 p.m. HawaiiTrails.org

2 Nisei Veterans Memorial Center  1

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Follow Lehia Apana on her “Perfect Day” at MauiMagazine.net/ wailuku-cruising.

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11:30 a.m. While you may never know the secret recipe behind Sam Sato’s dry mein noodles, you can enjoy a heaping bowl. This tiny mom-and-pop restaurant has been a Maui institution since 1933, which explains the perpetually long lines. Jot your name on the yellow pad outside the door and relax with the crowd of hungry locals and savvy visitors. 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku; 244-7214

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1–2 p.m. During World War II, some 33,000 Americans of Japanese ancestry joined the U.S. Armed Forces, serving their country courageously, even as that country questioned their loyalty and interned their families. Composed almost entirely of nisei (second-generation) soldiers, the 442nd Regimental Combat Team became the most highly decorated unit of its size in U.S. history. The Nisei Veterans Memorial Center honors these soldiers with scheduled events like One Puka-Puka: The Purple Heart Battalion, an exhibit running through August 26. It celebrates the 100th Infantry Battalion, which preceded the 442 and earned the appellation “Purple Heart

Battalion” for the courage of its men. The facility is basic and off the beaten path, but the stories shared within its walls are nothing short of astonishing. Noon–4 p.m. weekdays. 665 Kahului Beach Road, Kahului; 244-6862; nvmc.org

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2:15–5:15 p.m. Wailuku’s downtown is in the midst of a resurgence, with distinctive eateries and one-of-a-kind shops.

Don’t miss Native Intelligence, a cultural resource center disguised as a store that offers handcrafted items by local artisans and practitioners. Grab hip, Maui-branded gear at nearby Maui Thing, or get lost in the fabulously funky art of David Sandell at Sandell Maui. Need a break? Perk up at Wailuku Coffee Company . . . or find a good book in the cool confines of Wailuku Public Library, built in 1929 and designed by acclaimed architect C.W. Dickey.

History hounds are in for a treat at the storied Hale Ho‘ike‘ike at Bailey House, a five-minute walk from Wailuku’s center.

Missionary Edward Bailey is the building’s namesake; it houses many of his landscape paintings of nineteenth-century Maui. It also boasts the largest and best collection of Hawaiian artifacts on the island. The museum hosts an active lineup of workshops and events, and the gift shop is an excellent source of locally made treasures. 2375A Main St.; MauiMuseum.org

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5:30 p.m. Voted Best Southeast Asian restaurant at Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s 2017 ‘Aipono Awards, A Saigon Cafe is a Maui institution and a kind of gathering place for Wailuku locals. Point to just about anything on the menu—it’s all swoon-worthy here.

1792 Main St.; ASaigonCafe.com TIP: Visit Wailuku on the first Friday of the month, and enjoy a town party filled with music, art, children’s activities and more, 6–9 p.m. Info at MauiFridays.com.

TOP (2): LEHIA APANA; NISEI VETERANS MEMORIAL CENTER

Waihe‘e Ridge Trail

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