Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine Nov-Dec 2017

HOLIDAY TEST KITCHEN RECIPES!

Best of Maui

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Reasons Locals  Maui

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Features 28 » Adventure

52 » Maui Style

36 » Hawaiian Soul

62 At Home

PEAK PERFORMANCE Join a pickup team of volunteers helping to protect Haleakalā’s fragile environment. Story by Judy Edwards

AN ANCIENT FISHPOND RESURFACES Waia‘ōpae fishpond once helped feed Lāna‘i’s people.

Today it’s feeding a hunger for culture. Story by Kyle Ellison

42 » Island Style

2017 SHAKA LIST Our annual love letter to our favorite island Compiled by Shannon Wianecki

CHARMED AT FIRST SIGHT The Smiths knew what kind of home they wanted.

Their realtor had something else in mind.

Story by Sarah Ruppenthal

OUR HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE We’ve got the goods on where savvy Santas shop.

Compiled by Debby Kaiwi

About Our Cover

Andrew Shoemaker took that drop-dead gorgeous photo of the Mākena cove known as “Wedding Beach.” It’s #1 on our 2017 Shaka List of what we love about Maui.

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BRYAN BERKOWITZ

Bryan Berkowitz photographed this nēnē (Hawaiian goose) during a service trip into Haleakalā’s wilderness summit. The bird didn’t help the volunteers, but it wasn’t getting paid, either.

©2017 CHANEL®, Inc.

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Departments 16 Contributors

It takes a lot of talents to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

18 Publisher’s Note

By Diane Haynes Woodburn

20 Talk Story

« DINING » Stories by Becky Speere

78 Dining Feature

What’s happening where, when, and with whom

HOLIDAY TEST KITCHEN Lobster potstickers? Gingersteamed moi? House cake noodle? Chef Tylun Pang shows us how . . . and then we give you the recipes.

112 Who’s Who

90 Dining Highlights

108 Calendar

Seen making the scene on Maui

114 A Perfect Day on Maui

SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY Fresh off the coconut wireless Follow your local guide and make the most of Maui. ~ by Becky Speere, Shannon Story by Lehia Apana Wianecki & Paul Wood

94 Maui Mixology

NAUGHTY & SPICED Holiday cocktails? No time like the present!

96 Dining Guide

A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island

Web-exclusive content at Maui Magazine.net (beginning November)

EXTRA CREDIT Can’t get enough of our test kitchen? Try Chef Tylun Pang’s sabayon-and-strawberries dessert.

MauiMagazine.net/recipe-sabayonstrawberries YOU CAN CALL ME RAY. OR SKATE. Lehia Apana heads to Maui’s south shore for a perfect day of roller skating, aquarium exploring, and more. Tag along at MauiMagazine.net/southernhospitality.

PIE ARE DELICIOUS Four Sisters baker Arnold Magbual shares this yummy recipe at MauiMagazine.net/haupia-pie.

Facebook.com/MauiMagazine Pinterest.com/MauiMagazine Instagram.com/MauiMag Twitter.com/MauiMag

MIEKO HORIKOSHI

Our “Holiday Test Kitchen” takes an Asian turn with Chef Tylun Pang’s lobster potstickers. Find them, and more, on page 78.

TOPS OF THE MORNING It’s more than breakfast.

It’s comfort food done, oh, so right.

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There’s a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.

What is your go-to holiday dish?

I flavor kalua turkey simply, with Hawaiian salt and liquid smoke, and wrap it in banana and ti leaves. After it’s cooked, I freeze half-pound portions to make sandwiches, Cajun pasta sauce, kalua cabbage— it’s endless yumminess!

—Becky Speere I love to make Chex Mix from scratch and bring it to a holiday potluck when it’s still warm from the oven. It’s a crunchy, flavorful hit! Bonus: Recipe can easily be adapted to be gluten free, vegan, or nut free.—Adelle Lennox

Health & Wellness Relationship Spiritual Awakening Women’s Empowerment Cleanse & Detox Retreats Single Sessions

PUBLISHER Diane Haynes Woodburn SENIOR EDITOR Rita Goldman MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana

My “gotta have it or the kids will be disappointed” dish is a fresh, mom-made challah (plaited bread).

—Diane Woodburn

DINING EDITOR Becky Speere ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER John Giordani WEBSITE MANAGER Adelle Lennox ASSISTANT DESIGNER Shelby Lynch EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Mieko Horikoshi CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Judy Edwards, Kyle Ellison, Debby Kaiwi, Sarah Ruppenthal, Shannon Wianecki, Paul Wood

When I was little, my Irish Catholic Aunt Marie always sent a gingerbread house— CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Lehia Apana, Bryan Berkowitz, Conn Brattain, John which my mother displayed, unwrapped, for weeks before Carty, Kyle Ellison, John Giordani, Jack Grace, Sue the holiday. I wasn’t supposed Hudelson, Megan Hildebrand, Mieko Horikoshi, to touch it until Christmas Jazz Jiang, Debby Kaiwi, James Petruzzi, Andrew morning, and grew up thinking Shoemaker, Ryan Siphers, Don Riddle, Kent Smith, gingerbread was meant to taste like cardboard. No Becky Speere, Jim Therrian, Joe West wonder I don’t have a go-to holiday dish!—Rita Goldman CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION

Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. ADVERTISING SALES 808-242-8331 I would have to say matzah ball soup. Why? Because matzah balls!—Bryan Berkowitz My favorite is green-bean casserole because of its soft texture mixed with the hot, crunchy onions right out of the oven. My dad’s version is the best!—Brooke Tadena

GROUP PUBLISHER Catherine Westerberg ACCOUNT MANAGER Brooke Tadena BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Michael Haynes CONTROLLER & OFFICE MANAGER

Kao Kushner SUBSCRIPTION MANAGER Kamehana Lee NEWSSTAND SALES & CIRCULATION

Subscription inquiries toll free: 844-808-MAUI (6284) or visit Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net NATIONAL MagNet, Disticor Magazine Distribution Services HAWAI‘I MagNet IN-ROOM Maui Circulation E-MAIL ADDRESS Info@MauiMagazine.net I recently helped build my first imu (underground Hawaiian oven). The hours spent with friends and family to gather supplies and stoke the fire were delicious enough. But then we opened the imu and feasted on steamed sweet potato, banana, ulu (breadfruit), and parrotfish.

Heaven!—Shannon Wianecki

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I don’t define holidays by a dish, so much as by my Maui tribe, gathering in one home or another, or on the beach with Bellinis and a cheeseboard. Memories of wonderful, authentic people against a background of ocean or green mountains—that’s soul food.

—Judy Edwards As a child, spending Christmas Eve at my nonna’s house meant stuffing our faces with gnocchi di noce.

This northern Italian dish combined hand-cut thin and wide pasta (homemade, of course!) with a sauce made from finely ground walnuts.

A little boiling water from the pasta pot turned the nut paste into a creamy sauce made richer with generous handfuls of grated Parmesan.—John Giordani

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publisher’s note

There is nothing quite as welcoming as a warm and aromatic kitchen, redolent with sensory memories of childhood favorites, and the promise of a festive meal to come. I can still smell the sweet aroma emanating from my grandma’s kitchen. Her holiday kugel (noodle pudding) came to the table steaming with the rich, sugary scent of cinnamon; the noodles on top, browned and crispy, provided a perfect counterpoint to the soft, creamy interior where treasures of plumped raisins and fragrant almond slivers awaited excavation by small, sticky fingers. Close to sixty years later, the sense of family and well-being those memories bring remains with me.

Chef Tylun Pang, the star of this issue’s “Holiday Test Kitchen,” intimately understands the link between food, family and memories. And he makes short work of showing us what that means in our humble test kitchen, right here in my home. “Food in a Chinese family is very important,” he tells us. “Everyone participates!”

Right. Immediately, Chef is assigning tasks. Mike is chopping herbs while Rita is gingerly (er, reluctantly?) chopping lobster that just five minutes ago was amongst the living.

John is assigned cleaning abalone (a job I cringed from—only to be assigned deveining shrimp), while Cathy gets the lucky task of whisking air into sweet sabayon. Becky is a whirl of energy, flitting from one station to another while taking notes for her dining feature. (Find it on page 78). As we work, the kitchen fills with wondrous aromas, laughter and family spirit.

“When I was a child,” Chef Pang tells us, “my uncle owned a food stall in [Honolulu’s] Chinatown, where we shopped almost daily. I remember the pork hanging on hooks, chickens still clucking in the cages.” As he talks story, Chef Pang is mixing the lobster into a sweet and savory filling for today’s dim sum (Chinese pot stickers). He patiently shows Cathy and me how to place dollops of the delicate mixture on small rounds of dough that we then fold over and “pleat” to close. “Dim sum” translates to “touch the heart,” a labor of love that lives up to its name.

Buzzzzzz. I am jolted from the Zen of dim-sum pleating by the demand of a vibrating cell phone. URGENT! the message says. “Can you join us at Chef Bev Gannon’s house for an impromptu BBQ and fundraiser for Hurricane Harvey victims? Bring your checkbook!”

Hurricane Harvey had hit land just days before our test kitchen, wreaking havoc over southeast Texas and southwest Louisiana. Thousands were homeless, or worse. For days, my husband and I had been glued to the TV, seeing the devastation in real time and hearing stories of hardship and heroism—ordinary people moved to extraordinary measures to care for one another. Color, ethnicity, gender, religion, politics . . . none of it mattered.

Saving lives and sharing resources were the only topics of concern. In crisis, it seems, we are at our best. In crisis we become a family.

As I lean down to answer the buzzing phone—“Yes, I’ll be there”—I am struck by the fact that in Hawai‘i, we get it. It doesn’t take a crisis for us to understand that we are in this together. We know our survival depends on trust and acceptance of one another.

How lucky are we? At our holiday table, there is no shortage of diversity. We each bring a different culture and perspective, personal memories carefully blended with our new surroundings and our hopes for the future. Dim sum, Christmas pudding or kugel . . . we are all family.

Wishing you a holiday season filled with gratitude and tolerance, fond memories, laughter, and good health. And perhaps a little dim sum (or your grandmother’s favorite dish) to touch the heart. It all translates to love. Happy Holidays!

A hui hou,

Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

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MIEKO HORIKOSHI

Dim sum, kugel or Christmas pudding, we’re all family.

talk story Fresh off the coconut wireless

Art History Lahaina became “Historic Lahaina Town” about half a century ago. In a burst of small-town pride, a group of frisky idealists positioned themselves in the relic nineteenth-century courthouse and under the cool sprawl of the adjacent banyan tree. (In 1967 the famous ficus was almost a hundred years old.) They called themselves Lahaina Arts Society, disdained the profit motive, extended generosity to any person who yearned to try to paint a picture, raised scholarship money for talented kids from the plantation camps, and established a

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free-for-all attitude that continues to be the deepest soul of the art scene on Maui.

This November Lahaina Arts Society celebrates its fiftieth anniversary, and its members—most of them relative latecomers—can be proud that the same communal, come-all, noncommercial spirit persists. Today the society operates its youth outreach programs and exhibition/scholarship efforts for high school students through its twin organization, the Lahaina Arts Association, but little else has changed—the great banyan space, the

Story by Paul Wood

low-markup gallery. As past president and visionary artist Michael Stark puts it: “This is for anybody who thinks they want to be an artist; no gallery to judge, no editor to shut it down. If it works, then they launch out into the world.”

What roused little Lahaina to imagine itself a capital of culture? Kā‘anapali Beach Resort. In the mid-sixties, Maui had no Wailea, no Kapalua, almost no traffic lights, and certainly none of the artencouraging institutions that now echo the public-mindedness of Lahaina Arts

FAR LEFT: DAVID E. SCHOONOVER; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF LAHAINA ARTS SOCIETY

Clockwise from top left: The old Lahaina Courthouse puts a somber and dignified face to the sea in this decades-old photo.

Thanks to the Lahaina Arts Society, the real action has taken place, these past fifty years, in two indoor galleries, and on the mauka-side grounds, where a blockencompassing banyan tree shelters artists like Michael Stark and Rachel Fabbio, who display their works here for sale.

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Top: The courthouse’s rear façade opens onto Banyan Tree Park. Above: Members gather in 1985 for the society’s twentieth anniversary. Front row, from left: Helen Scantlin, George Allan, Esther Wilks and Joe Sweedler; back row, from left: Lynn Shue, Janet Allan, Marian Freeman.

Society—neither the Maui Arts & Cultural Center, for example, nor Art Maui, the juried exhibition that celebrates its fortieth anniversary next year. (Doyenne Ethel Baldwin and her daughter, Frances, had launched Hui No‘eau in 1934 as an artistic club for themselves and about twenty likeminded friends. Membership opened to the public when the Hui settled into the old Territorial Fairgrounds in Kahului some years later, but it wasn’t until 1976 that the Hui moved into Kaluanui Estate as a nonprofit arts organization—nearly a decade after Lahaina Arts Society stretched its first canvas.)

Even Lahaina’s Village Gallery (now called Village Galleries), the longest-running commercial art gallery on the island, was three years from opening its doors. But

Kā‘anapali, Hawai‘i’s original “destination resort,” was rising, and it craved attractions for its guests. At the time, historical venues such as the Wo Hing Temple and Hale Pa‘i (“printing house”) were almost in ruins; established in 1962, the Lahaina Restoration Foundation would address their reconstruction, though that would take years. It was Lahaina Arts Society that helped the town wake to its own peculiar legacy, and set a generous tone that we still feel is the real Maui.

Two women in particular, Lolita Freeland and Joan McKelvey, launched the idea of a local artists’ collective. “That was a time art began to really rear its head,” says McKelvey, now ninety-one. She remembers the arrival of artist George Allan, crewing

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MIDDLE: DAVID E. SCHOONOVER; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF LAHAINA ARTS SOCIETY

HAWAII | MICHIGAN | WISCONSIN

Over 30 Years of Service on Maui From top: The Old Jail Gallery really used to be a jail. Michael Stark and Joan McKelvey in 2015. Maui painter Joyce Clark in 1985.

aboard a dubiously historic whaling ship called Carthaginian, destined to become a town monument. Allan, a pioneer of Maui art and creator of the wall of palette-knife oil portraits on permanent display in the MACC’s Castle Theater, says, “Lahaina was a great little town, full of nice people, laid-back.” He worked with community volunteers to clear out the junk and rodents in the courthouse’s basement jail, now an exhibition space. Even though he was a vagabond Aussie, “They all took me in hand,” he says. “We all had fun. Someone gave me an easel.”

And then Maui art moved ahead— friendly, inclusive, mounted on the freespirited summer-of-love model of 1967 Lahaina Arts Society.

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TALK STORY day in the life

The Pie That Binds

Story by Becky Speere Photo by John Giordani

NAME Arnold Magbual TITLE Co-owner and Chief Baker, Four Sisters Bakery THE SON ALSO RISES When Stanley and Rufina Magbual opened a bakery on Vineyard Street in Wailuku in 1983, they named it Four Sisters, after their daughters Elizabeth, Mila, Melen and Bobby. But it was son Arnold, of all their twelve children, who took over the business when Stanley and Rufina retired. “No one else in our family wanted it,” he recalls. “If I didn’t take over, the bakery would be gone forever. So me and my wife, Marjorie, bought the bakery from them thirteen years ago.”

Owning a food company was a logical move for Arnold, who graduated in 1988 from Maui Culinary Academy (now University of Hawai‘i–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program). Then he and Marjorie took the business up a notch by deciding to give back to the community.

RAISING DOUGH “We’ve been making pies for Maui and Lāna‘i nonprofits during Thanksgiving week for about thirteen years,” says Arnold.

Organizations that raise funds by selling Four Sisters pies include ‘Īao School’s wrestling team; UH-MC’s Kabatak Club, which promotes Filipino culture; and Relay for Life, which supports cancer research.

“We sell to them for $5 a pie, and the groups can mark up the price to their needs,” Arnold says. “In the three days leading up to Thanksgiving, I work seventy-two hours straight through.” And that’s while simultaneously filling orders for 2,500-dozen butter rolls. “I know it’s crazy, but that’s what I do!”

BIG BOX STORE Marjorie Magbual is a registered nurse at Kula Hospital, but for two-thirds of the year, she’s also Four Sisters’ chief box folder. “Starting in April, I fold 6,000 boxes over eight months,” she says. “My son and daughter used to help me [fold boxes], but I made a pact with them: If they excelled in school they wouldn’t be obligated. I am now the sole box folder.”

She shares a story about the time a vandal tried to jimmy the bakerydoor lock for two hours. (His unsuccessful efforts were caught on video.) “He would have been very disappointed to find 6,000 empty pie boxes upstairs, and no money!” Marjory laughs.

KITCHEN TESTED Arnold’s sister Melen Agcolicol says that, every year, the hardworking couple threatens to stop the November madness, but every year “They give in because they want to give back to the community.” Evidently, giving back runs in the family; during that marathon pie bake, many family members provide hands-on support, some working in the tiny, hot kitchen, others manning the pickup station outside. Arnold’s face lights in a huge smile as Marjorie says, “It’s also our family bonding time. We get to share this special season of giving thanks. Together. Our whole family. Every year.”

The cap Arnold proudly wears is from Stanford University, where son Noah headed after graduating from Baldwin High School as a valedictorian and class president this summer.

WEB EXCLUSIVE: Find the recipe for Four Sisters’ sweet-potato/haupia pie at Maui Magazine.net/haupia-pie.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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TALK STORY in season

A Fern by Any Other Name Story by Shannon Wianecki Photo by John Giordani The laua‘e fern at left is indigenous to Australia, ubiquitous now in Hawai‘i. At right is the laua‘e also known as pe‘ahi, underside shown at top, front side below.

PEAHI FERN COURETESY OF OLINDA RARE PLANT FACILITY

Somewhat confusingly, two attractive fern species in Hawai‘i share the name laua‘e. One is endemic to these islands, i.e., found only here; the other hails from Western Australia. Both are beloved by lei makers and Hawaiian cultural practitioners.

The Australian species (Phymatosorus scolopendria) has been here so long that many people think it’s native. This lovely, robust fern grows just about anywhere, from new lava fields to dense forests. It can be easily spotted nestled within resort landscaping or fringing popular hiking trails. Its deeply lobed fronds have a light almond perfume that intensifies with age. For this reason, it’s sometimes called the maile-scented fern.

More beautiful and far less common, the native laua‘e (Microsorum spectrum) grows in rain-soaked, low-elevation forest—though you’re more likely to find it in a greenhouse than in the wild. The fern’s wide, triangular fronds are richly patterned by thin, dark veins and resemble snakeskin or stained glass. The Hawaiian laua‘e also exudes a signature scent, one celebrated in old chants and mele (songs). When the goddess Hi‘iaka departs Kalalau Valley on Kaua‘i with her lover Lohi‘au, she sings farewell to the steep cliffs made fragrant by laua‘e ferns: ‘A‘ala ka pali i ka laua‘e e. According to the late, esteemed ethnobotanist Isabella Abbott, Hawaiians of the past regularly perfumed their kapa (barkcloth) bedding with laua‘e and braided the sweet-smelling fronds into lei.

On Maui, the native laua‘e is known by yet another name: pe‘ahi. This title includes many poetic references; it simultaneously signifies the fern, an open hand, and the act of beckoning. The phrase ani pe‘ahi means to wave or fan, and recalls the breeze that carries the fern’s precious scent. Pe‘ahi is also the name of a valley in Hā‘iku— known to big-wave surfers as the site of Jaws, one of the world’s biggest waves. Do any native ferns survive there? If so, they’re worth sniffing out.

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ADVENTURE

Join a pickup team of volunteers helping to protect Haleakalā’s fragile environment.

STORY BY JUDY EDWARDS | PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRYAN BERKOWITZ

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The author and her trip leader make their steady descent into the visual wonderland of the Haleakalā summit wilderness.

The great, surreal summit wilderness of Haleakalā, when viewed from the sturdy, much-grasped railing at the rim, is nearly impossible to comprehend. On a cloudy day columns of mist rise and fall as if sentient, alternately cloaking and then revealing staggered cliffs, rusty Martian cinder cones, and mysterious jagged outcrops.

On a clear day the mind simply boggles. A rumpled, multicolored, volcanic wonderland tumbles away from your eyes, all of it contained in an elongate bowl in the sky.

Part of the challenge is the mind’s inability to determine scale. Because the summit wilderness sits many thousands of feet above the ocean in its own sea of clouds, there is no way to understand whether you are seeing something vast, with towering features, or something compact, a Toyland of Crayola colors in all the chocolates, reds and greens. It’s affectionately but wrongly called “the crater”; the S-shaped valley is erosional, carved by

wind and water over millennia, interrupted by volcanic episodes whose later eruptions created those cinder cones. The valley is about seven miles long and about three miles wide, and if you walk from the rim where you stand, gaping, to the far side, you’ll have dropped about 3,000 feet. This high-altitude desert looks tough and craggy, but its splendid isolation has left it vulnerable in ways that might surprise you. Any human touch on this sand-painting terrain is there, a scar, for a long, long time.

But there is a way to really ground your mind and your hands in this landscape, a way that lets you give back to it while you learn. Join a service trip with the aptly named Friends of Haleakala National Park, a nonprofit whose purpose is “to support educational, cultural, research, and service activities relating to the park and its ecosystems.” I did that for three days last August, crunching along in the rare sun and gritty cinders behind Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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ADVENTURE

Geologists believe that the true summit of Haleakalā was about 4,000 feet higher than its current elevation of 10,023 feet. The vast erosional trench called “the crater” is dotted with cinder cones that erupted relatively recently in the life of the volcano.

Clearly marked trailheads and a good pair of trustworthy boots help keep the day uncomplicated.

Matt Wordeman, the organization’s president and soft-spoken but indefatigable trip leader, a few other volunteers behind us, gamely tottering under their cameras and well-stuffed gear.

By Matt’s admission it was his well-over-hundredth trip leading service volunteers. Gerry and Deb, a Pukalani couple who run a sustainability nonprofit, had made a few forays down the summit trails but never committed to an overnight. Lia, a fair-skinned, self-described caretaker and student, piloted her moped around from Hāna for this adventure; and Bryan, our photographer, has significant Haleakalā time under his belt, thanks in part to his tenure with the Maui Invasive Species Committee. I’d been on the trails for years under various hats: as a guide for a hiking company; as an interpreter for the park’s other nonprofit partner, the Hawai‘i Pacific Parks Association; and as a recreational hiker with friends.

I’d also helped pull invasive weeds on a chilly, misty, completely satisfying service trip at least ten years ago. I was no stranger to Haleakalā, but it had been at least six years since I’d spent serious time and effort there.

Our mission: Descend Keonehe‘ehe‘e, the meandering, multihued, well-packed track better known by its English translation, “Sliding Sands Trail,” cross the “crater” to sturdy little Hōlua Cabin, stuff our faces with burritos, sack out, and the next day tackle the noxious weed known as “telegraph plant,” or Heteorotheca grandiflora. Our third day, we’d mostly work on cabin maintenance before hiking out again, this time up the Halema‘uma‘u Trail, locally known as “Switchbacks.” Hōlua, like Kapala‘oa and Palikū cabins, was built by the famous Civilian Conservation Corps, or CCC, in the 1930s, and retains that hefty, anchored-to-the-earth feel that the architecture of that era evokes.

After our steady seven-mile descent and trek across the valley floor, the cool green grass snuggling up to the old stone walls of Hōlua Cabin welcomed our sweaty backs. We’d had lunch on the trail, feasting our eyes on the view, and Matt often pointed out native plants and geologic features, or talked about park policy and the reasons for the rules. It was easy to see why “Stay on Trail” is such an important point: All along the trailside were wandering human footprints stamped into soft cinder that must have, until then, lain undisturbed for ages. As careless graffiti went, it was ugly, and sad to see.

At one point in our hike, we were overtaken by a tidal wave of European twentysomethings led by a local hostel host, all thirty-one of them (I counted) chattering away as they surged past in a flash of water bottles and accents and hot pink sunburns. At last we reached Hōlua, where an old hitching post served as the “humans dangle from it and stretch things” post, and after catching our breath and choosing our bunks, we launched into burrito-crafting and turned in early while the ‘ua‘u, or Hawaiian petrels, moaned their “ooooooo ah oooo” calls from nesting burrows in the stacked cliffs behind the cabin. The nearly full moon, when it rose, was bright enough to read by. Handy, since the outhouse was a short walk away.

I woke in my padded bunk on that first morning to the sounds of people scrambling to reach the windows for a stunning, hot gold sunrise. “Hot” would turn out to be the theme of the day, as the sky remained a flawless and unusually clear cerulean, the sunlight heavy on everything in a way you don’t feel at lower altitudes. Hōlua Cabin is tucked against the base of a cliff at about 6,700 feet above sea level, right above Ko‘olau Gap, and is often swaddled in cloud mist rising up the gap. This is why it’s important to pack for all possible weathers on trips into the summit wilderness: Haleakalā Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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ADVENTURE

Time seems suspended in this wilderness above the clouds. The abiding sturdiness of these little Civilian Conservation Corps cabins, built in the 1930s, contributes to that sense of remote peace—as does the total lack of internet and phone connectivity.

Middle photos, left to right: Deb and Lia start dinner by candlelight. Matt’s bowl of delicious pohā berries, picked right by the cabin, didn’t last long.

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conditions can switch on you and confound you, presenting as one thing and developing as another. All of us had packed for the expected (and typical) rain and misty cold.

What we got was a near-nuclear clarity and relentless sun. Bryan, also a returning servicetrip volunteer, stood that morning outlined in the sunshine streaming in the open cabin door and remarked, “Well this is odd; usually my fingers are numb from cold.”

After breakfast—and an hourlong scramble over ankle-challenging scree that fanned out from the great crumbling cliff above—we arrived at the site of the worst Heterotheca g. infestation: a long sloping field of thin, tan soil with a van-sized boulder perched near the top and a bordering of native bracken ferns. Heterotheca g. is a fuzzy, broad-leafed, smallish plant that emerges from the ground looking just a bit like a plush cabbage. It bolts up a stalk that presents a daisy-like, disarmingly cheerful yellow flower. That flower turns out seeds as fluffy and numerous as a dandelion on steroids, and therein lies the problem: Heterotheca g. could choke out many of the native plants that call Haleakalā home, plants that evolved in splendid, high-altitude isolation for countless millennia. Plants that can’t outseed Heterotheca g. Fortunately, Heterotheca g. can’t outwalk us.

Tiny, light green fuzzy plants poked up defiantly every few inches or so, with a few brazen stalks in full, flowering—or worse, seeddispersing—glory. Matt handed out bags for pouncing on the seeding plants ASAP, and our two methods of attack could be categorized as either “Sit down and pluck every little plant you see,” or “Wander methodically around looking for anything taller than six inches to yank.” Heterotheca has a nice, sage-y smell to it, so the work could have been quite pleasant if it weren’t happening in a frying pan. By late afternoon it was the humans who had wilted, but roughly 8,000 Heterotheca g. would never have the chance to grow up to wilt. We’d been relentless. Haleakalā ecosystems: 1. Weeds: 0.

Back at the cabin, we flopped in the cool green grass, feeling triumphant—if somewhat irradiated—and were joined by five wild nēnē, the celebrated Hawaiian geese that were extinct on Maui until reintroduced to the Haleakalā summit wilderness in the 1950s by Boy Scouts carrying geese in wooden whiskey boxes. Clearly used to people, these nēnē grazed around us, nibbling the tender new tips of the grass and softly calling to each other.

A through-hiker, one of many who traverse the eleven miles from Keonehe‘ehe‘e to Hōlua Cabin and then up the Halema‘uma‘u switch-

Mission Heterotheca Removal launches into action on a cloudless morning.

Trip leader Matt Wordeman holds prime examples of the worst offenders while issuing searchand-destroy instructions.

The author demonstrates the “Pluck every little plant you see!” method of Heterotheca demolition.

A pair of nēnē graze nonchalantly, despite the bustle of cabin cleaning.

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ADVENTURE Top: Who’s coaching whom?

Gerry and the rarest goose in the world take a moment to stretch. Middle left: Matt knows a good nap spot when he sees one, and this hungry nēnē seems fine with sharing the grass. Middle right: Pasta night proves that wilderness adventures don’t have to equal culinary tedium. Yes, that’s garlic bread. Bottom: The rising full moon, as seen from Hōlua Cabin, plays hide-and-seek with the setting sun.

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backs in a day, stopped to borrow our shade before tackling his last four miles. Slim and handsome, he turned out to be an employee of Alaska Airlines on a thirty-hour layover. Rather than catch up on sleep or luxuriate on the beaches of Maui, he’d chosen to experience the fantastically silent, astonishing volcanic wilderness at the very top of the island. He watched the nēnē closely as they moved and murmured around him. We explained their extinction and recovery story, which included the invaluable help of the Slimbridge Wetlands Centre in England, and suggested he visit nēnē at his home, Los Angeles, at the celebrated zoo. “How,” he said, “could I possibly improve on this?”

Service-trip participants clean and repair the cabins in exchange for using them, so after a coma-inducing and most excellent pasta dinner and another early zonk time, we rose on our last day to tackle melted candle wax on the communal picnic table (Gerry), grit on the windows (Deb), spider webs on the outside of the cabin (Bryan), inventory and bunk wipe down (yours truly) and a thorough sweep (Lia). It must also be stated here that Gerry took on the heroic task of cleaning the outhouse, the site of some terrible personal events before we’d gotten there, as most through-hikers make a stop at the Hōlua outhouse before tackling the switchbacks. When, in a contemplative mood, I asked everyone for his or her favorite moment, Bryan’s answer was “Being the first one to use the outhouse after Gerry cleaned it.”

Matt, in classic trip-leader fashion, savored the moment when he got all of his volunteer ducks in a row and on the trail. The night before, Lia had looked up from her plate into the circle of candlelit faces and said, “You know what I like? Here I am with a bunch of people who also thought it was a good idea to backpack across a high-elevation desert to pull weeds,” and smiled, and we all understood the implication of “It takes a certain kind of person and that happens to be us.” Gerry, our hero, narrowed his favorite moments down to “sunrise from my bunk that first morning, that brilliant orange, and all of us sitting in the candlelight feeling really good

IF YOU GO

Service trips with Friends of Haleakala National Park are hard work and no frills, but volunteers get the satisfaction of helping the environment. Visit the Friends’ website, fhnp.org/service.html, for a schedule of upcoming service trips, information on the types of work involved, and a complete list of what to wear and bring. (Be prepared for rain, wind and cold—and remember that everything you pack in, you’ll have to pack out.) Then create an account on the website, certify your readiness for a service trip, and call or email the listed leader for reservations. about being together, working together.” Deb said, “I felt really good after we picked all those weeds—we really made a difference. This is what we came for.”

As for me, my personally cherished moment happened the night before we left, as I wandered back from the outhouse in the glittering moonlight, astonished at the unexpected warmth that allowed me to stay outside a while longer than usual to view the indescribable arch of Haleakalā’s night sky. The ‘ua‘u moaned and cooed from their burrows in the silver-spangled cliffs somewhere over my head, and it was just me and the moon and the luminous world . . . and 8,000 less Heterotheca grandiflora.

The green, unspooling ribbon of switchbacks makes up two of the four miles that take you from Hōlua Cabin to the Halema‘uma‘u Trailhead.

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Lāna‘i’s Waia‘ōpae fishpond once helped feed the island’s people. Today it’s feeding a hunger for culture.

STORY & PHOTOS BY KYLE ELLISON | OPENING PHOTO BY JOE WEST

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JOEWESTPHOTOGRAPHY.COM

HAWAIIAN SOUL

Waia‘ōpae fishpond encircles nearshore waters on Lāna‘i’s eastern coast in this aerial photo taken in 2012. Volunteers rebuilding the rock wall appear as tiny dots at the pond’s upper left.

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When the work is complete, volunteers will have rebuilt nearly 2,000 feet of a wall that embraces more than a quarter mile of shoreline and extends 571 feet into the sea. All construction is done by hand, using only the pond’s original rocks. About 10 percent has been reconstructed since June 2015. Once the final stone has been laid and the sediment flow has been altered, the pond will again provide for those who helped raise it from the sea. “You work the pond, you eat from the pond,” Maly says proudly. “Hana ka lima, ‘ai ka waha. Work with your hands and you have food to eat.”

KYLE ELLISON

Brenda Asuncion is a hands-on loko i‘a coordinator for Kua‘āina Ulu ‘Auamo, an O‘ahu-based nonprofit that works to protect Hawai‘i’s natural and cultural resources. In 2013, Kua‘āina Ulu ‘Auamo received a grant from the Office of Hawaiian Affairs (a public agency) to support the efforts of Hui Mālama Loko I‘a, a network of fishpond practitioners and builders across the island chain.

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HAWAIIAN SOUL

O nā loko-i‘a, ‘oia kekāhi mau mea ho‘ohiluhilu o ka ‘āina.

(Fishponds are among the things that beautify the land.)

KYLE ELLISON

—S. M. Kamakau, native historian, 1869

Staring down at the muddy earth in front of Waia‘ōpae fishpond, Irene Perry wondered aloud, “Where did all the white sand go?”

Born in 1917 on Lāna‘i’s eastern shore, Perry remembers days when fishermen came home with awa (milkfish), ‘anae (mullet), āholehole (flagtail), moi (threadfish), and ‘ōpae (shrimp) from Lāna‘i’s largest loko i‘a, or fishpond.

Today, however, the shoreline is brown, covered in sediment from more than a century’s worth of unimpeded runoff. Goats and sheep had been brought to the island in the 1800s, followed later by deer.

Their overgrazing denuded the uplands, and dirt carried down by heavy rains flowed into the ocean and clogged the springs that had infused the pond with fresh water. When the springs disappeared, so did the shrimp (Waia‘ōpae means “shrimp spring”), and fish became less abundant. At the same time, introduced diseases were decimating native Hawaiian populations throughout the island chain. By 1920, only 150 people lived on Lāna‘i. In 1922, when James Dole began turning much of the island into the world’s largest pineapple plantation, most of the few remaining east-shore residents relocated to Lāna‘i City to work in that industry. With no one to maintain the rocks, wind and waves took their toll on the once-great pond.

Kepā Maly is senior vice president of culture and historic preservation for Pūlama Lāna‘i, the company that manages business ventures for Lāna‘i’s principal landowner, Oracle founder Larry Ellison.

“In just 100 years,” says Maly, “the ‘normal’ [our youth] grow up

Rocks used to build Waia‘ōpae fishpond lie in the sand. They were set into place 800 years ago by the pond’s original builders; over the centuries, wind, waves, and ocean tides toppled the wall and embedded the rocks in the muddy shoreline. To project director Kepā Maly, lifting them back into place is a way to connect with the island’s past and absorb its ancient lessons. “There’s a spiritual wealth in understanding the landscape in which we live. The idea is to engage the community and young people. We have kuleana—a responsibility to do this.”

with is not the ‘normal’ our island kūpuna [elders] grew up with.”

That’s an issue he’s working to change, and one way to do that is rebuilding the fishpond—one silt-covered rock at a time.

At nine acres, Waia‘ōpae is the largest of five fishponds native Hawaiians built on Lāna‘i’s eastern shore prior to Western contact.

Together, the ponds once helped feed an island population as high as 6,000 people, and fish were even traded in Lahaina, ten miles Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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HAWAIIAN SOUL

100% Extra Virgin Maui Olive Oil Unfiltered, cold pressed Grown & hand harvested on Haleakala¯, Maui Artisanal processing Limited inventory, almost sold out!

Volunteers pull rocks from the muddy floor and pile them onto the wall. All the motion helps stir up sediment that’s covered the freshwater springs, which, Maly says, is good for the pond.

“It’s unclogging the sinuses of the Earth.”

across the ‘Au‘au Channel.

Throughout Hawai‘i, fishponds like Waia‘ōpae were vital components of ahupua‘a, or traditional land divisions. Combined with resources found on land such as kalo (taro) ‘ulu (breadfruit) and ‘uala (sweet potato), the fish and shrimp from inside the pond help foster both a healthy ecosystem and healthy residents. Although manmade, they’re considered a natural extension of the land, and as native Hawaiian historian Samuel Kamakau penned in 1869, “O nā loko-i‘a, ‘oia kekāhi mau mea ho‘ohiluhilu o ka ‘āina—fishponds are among the things that beautify the land.”

Had you visited this beach five years ago and gazed where the loko i‘a once stood, the kuapā, or fishpond wall, would be gone, only its submerged foundation and a few rock piles remaining.

Fortunately, the foundation was intact, and the rocks were there—though the manpower wasn’t. In 2015, Maly started seeking funds to create workday opportunities for

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volunteers to help gather the rocks and, over time, rebuild the wall. Maly cites, in particular, grants from Pūlama Lāna‘i, the Hawai‘i Community Foundation, the Lāna‘i Culture and Heritage Center, and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s B-WET Hawai‘i Program (B-WET stands for Bay Watershed Education and Training, which provides experiential environmental education for youth K–12).

When I joined Maly for one of the workdays and placed my first stone on the wall, the sense of accomplishment was so addicting that I didn’t want to stop, even once the tide started rolling in. There’s an instant pride in helping to turn back the sands of time, and as he stands on the shore, surveying the gradual progress, Maly says, “Instead of feeling apart from this, we can feel that we are a part of it.”

For information on joining a workday at Waia‘ōpae fishpond or other natural and historical sites on Lāna‘i, call 808-565-3301, or visit LaHanaLanai.com.

KYLE ELLISON

Contact Josh@MauiOlive.com

presents the

‘aipono wine dinner series The ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series brings you fine wines paired with superb cuisine at surprisingly reasonable prices. Proceeds benefit UH–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program.

To sign up for the ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series mailing list, visit MauiMagazine.net or call 808.242.8331.

An exquisite wine showcase created by Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants

DRINK | LEARN | EAT | SUPPORT The next wine dinner will be hosted by: Pā‘ina Building, 2nd Floor UH–Maui College 310 Ka‘ahumanu Ave, Kahului Wednesday, Dec 6 Sparkling Wine Reception: 5:30pm Dinner: 6pm Reserve online via OpenTable or by calling the restaurant at 808-984-3280. $140 per person $25 from each dinner supports UH–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program.

The theme for the dinner will be:

Wines of Dashe Cellars Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy will guide us through the wines of Dashe Cellars, a family-owned artisan winery in the heart of Oakland, California’s Urban Wine Country. Founded by the husband-and-wife winemaking team of Michael and Anne Dashe, Dashe Cellars crafted its first vintage of Dry Creek Zinfandel in 1996. Since that time, the Dashes have focused on producing exceptional, single-vineyard wines from Sonoma County and surrounding regions, using a traditional approach to winemaking.

For this dinner, we’ll celebrate culinary education on Maui and acknowledge the success of the fall semesters’ students. Chef instructor Tom Lelli and the students are creating a feast in five courses, beginning with light hors d’oeuvres passed and presented in the exhibition kitchen. Then relax in the Leis Class Act dining room, where you will enjoy an elegant dinner paired with exceptional wines.

OUR

We’ve got the goods on where savvy Santas shop.

Compiled by Debby Kaiwi

Holiday Hers

ROCK HER WORLD

TOTE? SWEET!

It’s a woman’s prerogative to change her mind—which is why Lilly Pulitzer’s beach bather’s reversible canvas tote comes in iconic prints, with removable pouch.

22½”W x 14¾”H x 9¼”D, $108. At Pink Lilia, a Lilly Pulitzer signature store, Grand Wailea, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234, LillyPulitzer.com

MAKE THE WORLD HER OYSTER She’ll collect compliments everywhere she goes, wearing Maui Divers’ freshwater pearl bracelet in 14K white gold. $695. Multiple store locations.

MauiDivers.com

FORGET SUGARPLUMS

Sweet Paradise Chocolatier handcrafts chocolate with decadent fillings like passion fruit, creamy caramel, mac-nut ganache and coconut cream brûlée. Tiered box of 16 assorted truffles and chocolates, $55.

34 Wailea Gateway, Wailea, 344-1040

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MĀLIE CHRISTMAS

Mālie Organics’ all-natural fragrances embody the romance of the islands. Indulge her senses with plumeria eau de parfum (shown), pikake, coconut vanilla, hibiscus, or mango nectar. $45.

Kamaha‘o Spa, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234, Maile.com

TOP LEFT: DEBBY KAIWI; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

Lapis and agate click in this 18” necklace, $850, by Marvis Collective, a global source for one-of-a-kind jewelry, custom clothing and designer exclusives. At Le Surf Wailea at Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea 875-4100.

GREAT FINDS

GIFT GUIDE His

LONG STORY, SHORTS

Standard issue for all Hawai‘i lifeguards, Maui Rippers board shorts are proudly worn by the most respected watermen in the world.

They’re just as comfortable and stylish on land. $45.95 at Collections, 3677 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-0781, CollectionsMauiInc.com

TOP LEFT: DEBBY KAIWI; BOTTOM LEFT: JOHN GIORDANI; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS

YULE TIED

TIME AND TIDE

Inspired by Hawai‘i’s active lifestyle, these luxurious silk ties are a welcome accessory for any discerning kāne.

Shown, left to right: Kanaka Maoli black modern, and Kakau grey/ blue modern, each $65. At Native Intelligence, 1980 Main St., Wailuku, 249-2421, www.Native-Intel.com

Martin & MacArthur’s ruggedly handsome men’s watch features a solid koa band crafted from its private stock on Hawai‘i Island, and mother-of-pearl face embossed with Roman numerals.

Lightweight and splash/water resistant, it’s available exclusively at Martin & MacArthur. $645. At Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 6677422; and The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 214-9874

JOYEUX NOËL

Put a smile on his face with luxurious Cade grooming products from L’Occitane En Provence. Shown: Luxurious, spicy and woodsy shaving cream, $29; after-shave balm, $34; shaving soap, $14, in shaving bowl, $29. 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 419-6804, USA.Loccitane.com

FOR THE CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD

Wave if your guy is nuts about surfing. Better yet, give him Richard Kenvin’s Surf Craft: Designs and the Culture of Board Riding. The hardcover book features 150 color images and insightful text. $29.95, at Barnes & Noble, 325 Keawe St., Lahaina, 662-1300, BarnesAndNoble.com Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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Keiki

MOVE OVER, MOANA!

Since 1923, the Madame Alexander Doll Company has sparked young imaginations. At Maui Toy Works, each winsome wahine doll wears an outfit handmade on Maui. 18” high, $89–$103. In Lahaina Cannery Mall, 1221 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Lahaina, 661-4766; and Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-4849

BOYS AND CURLS

What surfer in training wouldn’t be stoked to hit the waves in this slate-and-neon long-sleeved rash guard and Tribal Shark True Boardies board shorts? $42 each at Droplets, 1169 Makawao Ave., #102, Makawao, 205-1751

Made on Maui, this Posey Playset has a tiered dress with smocking and matching panties. $39. At Blue Ginger in Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center, 275 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 871-7002; The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-0772; and Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-1666. BlueGinger.com

BRING HOME TAKO

Who could resist wrapping their arms around this vibrantly colored, plush octopus by Wishpets? $29.95. Maui Ocean Center, 192 Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7061, MauiOceanCenter.com

TOTALLY TUBULAR!

Keiki seven and older will be thrilled to learn to surf in a safe and comfortable environment with the fun and professional surf instructors of Rivers to the Sea. Group, semiprivate and one-on-one lessons, $119–$279. 126 Hinau St., Unit A, Lahaina, 280-8795, RiversToTheSea.com

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TOP (3): DEBBY KAIWI; MIDDLE: JOHN GIORDANI; BOTTOM: COURTESY OF RIVERS TO THE SEA

GIRLS JUST WANNA HAVE FUN

Home

GREAT FINDS

BASKET CASE

Adorned in cowry shells and handmade in Indonesia, these decorative lidded baskets are as practical as they are handsome. Small (7”x6”), $100; large (11½”x7½”), $200, at Pearl Butik, 71 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 857-8899, PearlButik.com

GO DUTCH

Le Creuset’s iconic Dutch oven is a welcome addition to any home cook or professional chef’s kitchen. Cast iron makes it ideal for roasting, braising or slow cooking. Range of colors (shown: cerise); 2–15½ qt., $200–$675. Marmac Home & Kitchen 334 Alamaha St., Kahului, 877-3931

THE RIGHT STUFF

TOP RIGHT: COURTESY OF RESPECTIVE RIGHTS HOLDERS; ALL OTHERS DEBBY KAIWI

Bring a touch of island comfort into your home with a handmade cotton-and-linen pillow featuring coral branches embroidered on a background of sand. 22”x22”, $195 at Pacific Home, 221 Lalo St., Kahului, 727-8300, Pacific-Home.com

GO ORGANIC

Textured ceramic and asymmetrical rims give this eye-catching vase organic appeal even before you add greenery and flowers. Each piece is unique. Shown: 12”x30”x35”, $127, at HUE Interior Design & Home Furnishings, 210 Alamaha St., Kahului, 873-6910, MauiHue.com

PLATE TECTONICS

Create a stir with melamine plates that look like ceramic, are dishwasher safe, and sturdy enough for a day at the beach. 9” diameter, set of 4 for $28 at Hale Zen, 180 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 661-4802, HaleZen.com

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GREAT FINDS

Stocking Stuffers TAKE NOTE

These colorful mini notebooks by Bradley & Lily are the perfect size for purse or pocket and come in a variety of designs. (Shown: Rainforest and Bold Surfboard.) 40 blank pages, 3½”x5½”, $5 at Collections, 3677 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-0781, CollectionsMauiInc.com

Keep (or share) your favorite recipes on these 100% cotton cards by Aloha Letterpress. Set of 20 cards, 5¼”x4¾”, individually printed on an antique press using hand-blended inks. $35 includes easel. Cleaning’s a pleasure with an eco-friendly Swedish dishcloth by Three Bluebirds, a whimsical alternative to sponges and paper towels. $7. Find them at Biasa Rose, 104 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8602.

SWEETEN THEIR HOLIDAYS

Liliko‘i butter by Jamie’s Jams are made in small batches, using fresh Waipoli liliko‘i (passion fruit), sugar and eggs. 8 oz. jar, $14, at MauiWine’s Tasting Room in ‘Ulupalakua, 878-6058; Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 8772877; and by special order at JamieWoodburn1@gmail.com.

SALTS FOR EVERY SEASON

Treasured in the islands and around the world, Sea Salts of Hawai‘i’s gourmet cooking salts add flavor to your food and aloha to your journey.

Set of three, ‘alaea, kona and uahi, $18.99 at Island Gourmet Market in The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055, IslandGourmetHawaii.com

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CARRY THE ONE

Sky Dreams’ Ko‘olina Sunset zippered clutch is lined and waterproof—the perfect way to carry essentials to the beach, the pool, or around the town. 8½”x13”x2”, $40 at Paper Garden, Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center, 275 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 871-5541

FARM TO SPOON

Haleakala Creamery handcrafts decadent, spreadable caramel sauces with local ingredients (including milk from Maui goats and cows) in five yummy flavors like Hawaiian vanilla (shown). 2 oz. and 6 oz. jars. At Island Gourmet Market in The Shops at Wailea; Kula Country Farms, Tutu’s Pantry in Kīhei, Mana Foods in Pā‘ia, Maui Ocean Center in Mā‘alaea, and MauiWine at Ulupalakua Ranch.

TOP RIGHT, BOTTOM LEFT & MIDDLE RIGHT: DEBBY KAIWI; TOP LEFT: COLLECTIONS; MIDDLE LEFT: CONN BRATTAIN; BOTTOM RIGHT: REBECCA WOODBURN-RIST

RECIPE FOR A HAPPY KITCHEN

THE SHOPS AT GRAND WAILEA MAKANA – GIFTS WITH ALOHA PINK LILIA - A LILLY PULITZER SIGNATURE STORE GRAND IMAGE BOUTIQUE GRAND JEWELS OF WAILEA CHRISTOPHER EGAN GALLERIES KI‘I GALLERY CRUISE BOUTIQUE PINEAPPLE PATCH NAPUA GALLERY QUIKSILVER WAILEA MEN’S AND WOMEN’S SHOP NA HOKU PACIFIC DREAM PHOTOGRAPHY BEACH & POOL STORE

3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, HI 96753 800.888.6100 • WWW.GRANDWAILEA.COM LOCATED AT GRAND WAILEA, A WALDORF ASTORIA RESORT

KENSU JEWELRY

KenSu’s sterling-silver “Lauhala” 3-line cuff bracelet. See us at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua Nov 9 & 10, 16 & 17, Dec 7–9 & 21–23; at Montage Kapalua Bay Nov 24, Dec 28 & 29; and at the Grand Wailea Nov 30, Dec 1, 14 & 15.

Also at Maui Hands at the Hyatt Regency in Kā‘anapali; and private showings, by appointment, at Andaz Maui and Four Seasons Resort. 808-727-2203 | KenSuJewelry.com

SARGENT’S FINE JEWELRY

Make your Maui memories last forever with one of these stunning, 18k gold Mini Lamello diamond pendants, representing our glistening ocean waves. We feature more than twenty-seven local artists, ensuring that you’ll find some of the most unique handmade jewelry in Hawai‘i. 802 Front Street, Lahaina | 808-667-2131 | SargentsFineJewelry.com

MAUI ME HAWAII

’Tis the SEAson to shop your favorite ocean-inspired Tahitian pearl jewelry! Make it yours by personalizing and customizing our quality, handcrafted bangles. Enjoy 10% off your entire purchase with promo code MAUIME10. MauiMeHawaii.com | @MauiMeHawaii

HANGLOOSE HAMMOCKS HAWAII

Established in 2007, this globally responsible company works directly with family artisans from 5 different countries, providing fair-trade employment to hundreds of economically disadvantaged superstars. Visit Hawai‘i’s largest hammock in Ha‘ikū, or the biggest little hammock shop in Lahaina. 810 Ha‘ikū Road, Ha‘ikū | 658 Front Street, Lahaina | HangLooseHammocks Hi.com

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|

KEANI JEWELRY

Inspired by Hawai‘i. Appreciated worldwide. Modern tropical luxe jewelry

by Maui designer Keani Le‘a Barnes.

Come shop our fresh, unique collections at our studio store, Keani Hawai‘i!

1156 Makawao Avenue, Makawao | 808-727-2685 | KeaniJewelry.com

ADVERTORIAL

GOIN LEFT

There’s something for everyone in this eclectically curated lifestyle boutique filled with quality products and apparel for outdoor living—on land or sea. Pictured from left: Santa Cruz skateboard, PackNW backpack, Mayde + Pendleton towels, iconic Vuarnet sunglasses, Tori Praver bathing suit, Goin Left canvas bag by Baggu, air plants and exotic dendrobiums. 143 Dickenson Street, Lahaina | 808-868-3805 | GoinLeft.com

MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS

Keeping Maui caffeinated since 1981. We roast Maui coffee, Hawaiian coffee, and our blends daily in our eco-friendly, smallbatch roaster to ensure the freshness of every roast. Taste the flavors of Hawai‘i in every freshly brewed cup. 444 Hāna Highway, Kahului | 808-8772877 | MauiCoffeeRoasters.com

STUDIO22K

Sherri Dhyan and the goldsmiths of Studio22K are dedicated to the traditions and style of high-karat gold jewelry inspired

by Mesopotamia and ancient African cultures. Our goldsmiths skillfully recreate techniques of these civilizations, such as granulation, filigree, repoussé/chasing and hand forging. 1618 Hāna Highway, Pā‘ia | 808-579-8167 | Studio22k.com

MAUI WOODYS

We handcraft the frames for our sunglasses here on Maui, using island woods, and incorporate high-quality, high-definition polarized lenses with 100% ultraviolet protection. We offer more than twenty styles—and they come with an extended warranty.

Custom and prescription options available. 808-283-2018 | MauiWoodys.com

DRIFTWOOD

Driftwood is a carefully curated lifestyle boutique located in the heart of Maui. We carry exceptional women’s clothing, shoes, bags, jewelry, accessories and beauty products by local and global designers. Our clients call us “the best boutique on the island.” 1152 Makawao Avenue, Makawao | 808-573-1152 | DriftwoodMaui.com Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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HOLIDAY MARKETPLACE / ADVERTORIAL

SHORE PLAY MAUI

Hawaiian seashells gathered by hand from the shores of Maui, paired with Tahitian pearls, South Sea pearls and Edison pearls, all beautifully handcrafted with aloha. See our creations on instagram, @shoreplaymaui, or our website, ShorePlayMaui.com. Or email us your idea for a custom creation: ShorePlayMaui@gmail.com

MAUI MANJOOKIES

Maui Manjookies offers a variety of homemade baked goods to share with family and friends. We make gift baskets and party favors for weddings, business events and parties. Share a bite of Maui’s best hand-rolled and fruit-filled pastry! MauiManjookies.net

DESIGNS BY SHIRLEY

Shirley Lecomte offers custom designs to create personalized family heirlooms. Her signature “808” piece is available in 14K gold with diamonds, 14K gold, and sterling silver. Her love for her West Maui home inspired her “96761 Zip Code” pendant collection.

Custom work available. Designs by Shirley can be found at Sargent’s Fine Jewelry. 802 Front Street, Lahaina. | 808-276-3811 | DesignsByShirley@gmail.com

SECOND WIND MAUI

Second Wind Maui is the exclusive dealer for beautiful, all-wood construction Sunova boards in Hawai‘i.

Voted 5 years in a row as Maui’s best SUP shop, Second Wind Maui is the best source for all your watersports needs. 111 Hāna Highway, Kahului | 808-877-7467 | SecondWind Maui.com

TUTU’S PANTRY

Take a taste of Hawai‘i home! At Tutu’s Pantry you’ll find a large selection of homemade jams, butters, syrups, sauces, hot sauces, seasonings and more, all made in Hawai‘i using locally sourced ingredients. Make sure to ask for samples! Open 10 a.m.–7 p.m. Kihei Kalama Village, 1941 S. Kīhei Road, Unit D5 | 808-874-6400 | TutusPantry.com

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R2H: ROAD TO HANA

Need the perfect gift for someone traveling to Maui?

Give them the experience of a lifetime—exploring Maui’s lush rainforests, hidden waterfalls, and other breathtaking natural wonders. They’ll find all this and more with Road to Hāna, the most adventurous and romantic Hāna guide available. They’ll do the driving, and we’ll do the guiding! CDs and downloads available at any ABC Store on Maui, and TheR2H.com.

WRAPPILY

MAUI TRAVEL MASK

Traveling on a plane exposes you to airborne pathogens that can ruin your vacation. Molly Palmer and Danielle Travis have created the Maui Travel Mask: stylish, antimicrobial face apparel to keep you healthy on your next flight. The inner liner infuses therapeutic, organic essential oils into the fabric for added health benefits. Please visit Kickstarter.com/ thebarriermethod to become a backer! 808-2801123 | TheBarrierMethod.com

Wrap, rip, recycle, says this Maui-based, eco-friendly giftwrap company.

Wrappily uses newspaper presses to print fun, colorful patterns on newsprint that’s 100% recyclable, compostable, and guilt-free.

Mix-and-match, reversible patterns make gifts look great stacked under the tree. Wrappily.com | @wrappily

SASSABELLA BOUTIQUE

WAI LIFE

Hand-drawn designs, screen-printed on Maui.

Custom screen-printing orders available.

WaiLife808.com | info@wailife808.com

Sassabella showcases locally based designers and features high-quality, extremely soft garments. We offer a unique and sassy shopping experience.

Choose from one-of-a-kind jewels and handbags, plus cozy and versatile clothing not found elsewhere. 36 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia | 808-572-3552 | Facebook.com/SassabellaBoutique Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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Story by Shannon Wianecki

2017

LIST

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MAUI STYLE SHAKA [shah-kah] noun 1. Extension of thumb and pinkie to form a “Y”; 2. A gesture conveying a quintessentially Hawaiian greeting, a sign of friendly intent. (See also: “Hang loose.”)

Maui saturates the senses: the fragrance of a tuberose lei, the tartness of liliko‘i on the tongue, the sound of rain pelting a tin roof, the sea’s shifting temperature as you dive deep, the shadow play of clouds. The sensual magic is constant, even as Maui changes. Yes, the canefields that once greened the central valley will soon yield other crops. Most Plantation Era mom-and-pops have closed, and Kahului Airport is temporarily unrecognizable amid construction cranes and labyrinthine detours. But several items on this list—our annual love letter to our favorite island— have weathered a century or more. They’ve survived tsunamis, wars, the transition from territory to state, and similar tectonic shifts. Survived and thrived. We celebrate them along with the ambitious kupu (sprouts) rising at their side. For these reasons and so many more: Maui nō ka ‘oi!

1

“Wedding Beach”

Near the road’s end in Mākena, pass through a lava-rock wall to find a picturesque sandy cove—a favorite spot for couples tying the knot. Plunk down your towel and watch bride after bride tiptoe out onto the sea-splashed rocks for the perfect portrait. Photo

by Andrew Shoemaker

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MAUI STYLE

2

Hashimoto persimmons

In autumn, reddish-orange globes ripen in the orchards along PĹŤlehuiki Road in Upcountry Kula. Shinichi Hashimoto planted persimmons here 100 years ago; his trees still bear sweet fruit.

Buy a box full of the family farm’s crunchy fuyu persimmons, but save room for a few plump hachiya. When ripe, these flamecolored softballs dissolve into delectable jelly.

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3

«

Kuleana Local filmmaker Brian Kohne brings 1970s Maui vividly

to life with a story of Hawaiian pride, responsibility and redemption.

Island actors performed in the production, which debuted under the stars at the Maui Film Festival, winning the Audience Choice Award.

Kuleana went on to win Audience Choice at the San Antonio Film Festival, and Best Feature at the Tribal Film Festival in Cherokee County, Oklahoma. Kohne hopes for statewide theatrical release early in 2018.

Eh, you guys stay famous now!

Photo by Jack Grace

Beats & Eats

On the last Friday of every month, power couple Jojo and Eliza Vasquez turn up the heat at the Plantation House in Kapalua. He provides the eats: exquisite bites of braised octopus with fiddlehead fern, and baby loco mocos with sous vide short ribs. She provides the beats: soulful vinyl ballads that graduate into booty-shaking, rock-the-house rhythms. When guest chefs join the mix, it’s fuse-blowing fun.

Photos by Jazz Jiang (left) & Megan Hildebrand (right)

Marriott’s Wailea Beach Resort pool

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Are the cabanas floating in the infinity pool too serene for you? Then torpedo down one of the resort’s four new waterslides! The Big Kahuna spirals down 325 feet; it’s the longest slide in the state. Photo by Don Riddle

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MAUI STYLE

Frogfish

Stand-up comedians have nothing on these camouflaged reef walkers. Look (closely) for them at Ulua Beach on the Wailea coast, or on the wreck of the St. Anthony, an old shrimp boat sunk there to create an artificial reef. Photo

by James Petruzzi

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Hale Ho–‘ike‘ike

This site at the mouth of ‘Īao Valley has serious mana (life force). Kahekili II, the last ruling chief of Maui, lived here. In 1833, the first Western-style house in the region was built here with coral bricks and sandalwood beams. It served as a girls’ seminary and then the residence of Edward Bailey, a missionary and inspired painter. Now the Maui Historical Society calls it home, and hosts stimulating workshops and concerts in the garden.

8

For $12 you can sink your teeth into some of the best, most broke-da-mouth barbecued chicken on the planet, while sitting in the shade of coconut palms and watching ‘iwa (frigatebirds) dive-bomb little ‘Ālau Island.

Photos by Ryan Siphers

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MIDDLE: HALE HŌ‘IKE‘IKE AT THE BAILEY HOUSE

Hulihuli chicken at Ha–na’s Ko–kı– Beach Park

Ho‘omana Spa

Hidden up Pi‘iholo Road in Makawao, this Hawaiian-owned day spa and massage school might just be Maui’s fountain of youth. Here, therapists learn how to lomilomi (massage) down to the bones, whisking away aches and rekindling your mana (life force). Couples seeking extra romance can soak in the spa’s side-by-side stone tubs. Photo by John Carty

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Commuter flights on Mokulele Airlines

9

Going holoholo is still hassle-free at Kahului Airport’s commuter terminal.

The nine-seat Cessnas fly low, giving you an ‘io (Hawaiian hawk’s) view of offshore islets, fishponds, and waterfalls spilling into the sea.

Bonus: You can even bring your dog.

Shower trees

The lovely trees lining Baldwin Avenue between Pā‘ia and Makawao burst into color each spring. Did you know the showy blossoms smell equally wonderful? Next time you drive past, pull over and bury your nose between the branches.

Photo by John Giordani

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12

MAUI STYLE

Outrigger-canoe surfing

Catching waves is easier with five others helping you paddle. Share the stoke! Photo by Sue Hudelson

13 Thirteen years ago the East Maui Watershed Partnership had the brilliant notion of marrying art and conservation. A juried exhibit was born, showcasing Hawaiian flora and fauna. Every year since, local artists have outdone themselves, bringing some of the world’s rarest species to life in clay, pigment, pixel, glass and kapa (Hawaiian barkcloth). Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center now hosts the show.

Clockwise from left: Barclay Hill’s Bigfin Reef Squid, Brian Kimmel’s Fishy Fishy Swim Swim Glub Glub, Mary Grandy’s Koki‘oke‘oke‘o, and Sue Yee Verkaart’s A Commensal World

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COURTESY OF MĀLAMA WAO AKUA

Ma–lama Wao Akua

Kaho‘olawe restoration

For 200 years, this wahi pana, or “place of legends,” endured injury after injury.

Free-ranging goats and cattle nibbled its vegetation down to a nub. The military bombed it. Wind blew its topsoil into the sea. In 1976, the Protect Kaho‘olawe ‘Ohana (PKO) launched a dramatic protest against military occupation of the island. Eighteen years later the U.S. government finally returned Kaho‘olawe to the people of Hawai‘i. Since then, volunteers with PKO and the Kaho‘olawe Island Reserve Commission have devoted their blood, sweat, and tears to resuscitating its shattered ecosystem.

It’s working. Native trees and shrubs are taking root, and the rare Hawaiian bat has recently been seen soaring overhead.

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Hasegawa General Store’s machetes

TOP: COURTESY OF KAHO’OLAWE ISLAND RESERVE COMMISSION

The Hasegawa family has supplied Hāna’s needs for a century and counting.

In rainy East Maui, where weeds grow an inch a minute, there is no greater need than for a machete. A wide selection of these handy knives hangs above the Hasegawa office window: machetes of every shape and size. Whether you need to whack cane grass, split coconuts, or beat back guava branches, the Hasegawas have you covered. Photo by Ryan Siphers

Imua Family Services

“Imua” means to move forward, the way an outrigger canoe surges into the waves when everyone works together—and this nonprofit lives up to the name. The largest earlychildhood-development program in the state, Imua helps kids with special needs get up and go.

During its free, weeklong summer camp, keiki clip into ziplines, climb into helicopters, and perform onstage. Imua’s annual black-tie benefit gala is a blast, too.

Photo by Jim Therrian Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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This funked-up, rebel-with-a-cause indie record store in Wailuku is Maui’s sole source for vinyl, cds, and even cassette tapes. Whatever musical earworm you crave, the friendly staff can find it—and recommend five others like it. They also host epic Record Store Day parties, in-store shows, and breakdancing contests that will blow your mind.

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The Brocken Spectre atop Haleakala–¯

A late-afternoon visit to the Leleiwi Overlook near Haleakalā’s summit may reward you with a magical sight: your own shadow cast on the clouds, magnified and surrounded by a halo of rainbows.

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Na–¯ pili Kai Resort oceanfront studio

For straight, unfiltered luxury, book an oceanfront studio in the Puna 2 building. From your bed you can watch sea turtles paddle around Nāpili Bay. This vintage resort has plenty more to offer, too, including a Grammy Award-winning slack-key-guitar concert and the most heavenly oven-baked pancakes. Photo by Don Bloom

TOP (8): COURTESY OF REQUEST MUSIC

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Request Music

MAUI STYLE

20 Keawala‘i Church

Originally built out of pili grass, this beautiful seaside sanctuary has served its flock since 1832. It now has stone walls, ‘ōhi‘a wood floors, an altar made of ‘ulu, koa, milo, and ‘iliahi woods, and windows that open wide to accommodate overflow—on special occasions, the church fills to standing room only. In truth, every Sunday is special when the congregation rises to sing hymns in Hawaiian.

Photos by John Giordani Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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When Kent and Polli Smith started house-hunting in Kula a little over a year ago, the last thing they wanted was a two-story home. “We were set on buying a one-story house,” Polli says. “I’m so glad we changed our minds.”

Kent, who works in alternative energies, and Polli, the former owner of Polli’s Mexican Restaurant in Makawao, know a thing or two about houses: Since moving to Maui forty-seven years ago, they’ve rented, bought, built and sold several homes, including a beach bungalow in Mākena, a condominium in Mā‘alaea, a golf-course villa in Pukalani, a custom home in Ha‘ikū, and a 62

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AT HOME

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That’s Polli Smith at the foot of the foyer’s staircase. She says the first time she entered the home, the light-filled space swept her off her feet. It’s a perfect place to display some of the couple’s antique showpieces and artwork, including a vibrant cactus painting by Maui artist Neida Bangerter.

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AT HOME

TOP: KENT SMITH

Above: Kent’s prized 1952 Ford F1 pickup is in mint condition, thanks to a cousin in Los Angeles who owns a shop that restores classic cars. Below: One of the home’s most striking features is the gazebo, whose convivial seating and gas fireplace invite outdoor entertaining and stargazing.

century-old cottage in Kula that lacked electricity. “We like variety,” Polli laughs.

But this time, the Smiths had something specific in mind. “We were looking for a house we could grow old in,” Polli explains. “We wanted something practical and convenient that didn’t require anything more than moving our stuff in.” And one more thing. “We didn’t want to walk up any stairs to go to bed at night.”

So when their realtor mentioned the three-bedroom, three-anda-half bath home on a sprawling four-acre lot in Kula, the Smiths demurred. “It sounded like too much house for us,” Polli says. But the realtor insisted they take a look, and Polli and Kent reluctantly agreed. “She told us we’d love it as soon as we saw it,” Polli recalls.

Their realtor was right.

With its butter-yellow exterior, shake roof and pillared front porch, the residence takes many of its cues from East Coast architecture. “The original owners were from the Washington, D.C., area,” explains Todd Preseault, the general contractor who built the house twelve years ago. “It looks like something you might find in Virginia or Maryland, which makes it unique.” It may be unique, but it’s not misplaced. To the contrary, the stately yet rustic home complements its picturesque surroundings.

It wasn’t what they’d had in mind, but the moment the Smiths walked through the front door, they were willing to make concesMaui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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AT HOME

Guests receive royal treatment in the second-floor master suite, with its mix of comfortable furnishings and intriguing art.

A pair of armchairs from Pier 1 adds to the parlor’s appealingly eclectic aesthetic.

Polli found the Japanese painting at a local yard sale. Although it’s not finished, she likes the way its colors match those of the room.

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sions. “It seemed like the house said to us: ‘Where have you been?’” Polli says. “It was meant to be.” For one thing, the house has two master suites—one on the ground floor. “That checked one big item off our list,” she says. From there, it was just one pleasant surprise after another.

A charming parlor flanks the entry, with doors that can close the room off from the rest of the house. Just beyond the entryway are the living and dining rooms; natural light streams into both rooms through large windows and doors that open to a spacious, columned lānai.

Polli, who loves to cook, was instantly smitten with the kitchen, which boasts plenty of storage space (there are a whopping twenty-five drawers) and appliances any profes-

AT HOME

The kitchen has granite counters, an island topped with butcher block, and appliances by Sub-Zero and Wolf.

What pleases Polli most? “There’s a place for everything.”

The living room’s sectional sofa wraps around an antique Asian trunk Polli won in a silent auction. Next to the fireplace, at lower right, sits a honu (sea turtle) carved from a burnt kiawe stump; Kent commissioned the piece as an anniversary gift for Polly.

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sional chef would be proud to own, including two Wolf wall ovens, a Sub-Zero refrigerator, and a Wolf four-burner range with a built-in griddle and grill. Apart from the kitchen’s functionality, both Polli and Kent were captivated by the striking look of the space, with its sleek white cabinets hanging above granite countertops, and a center island topped with butcher block. “We didn’t need to change a thing,” Polly says.

In the dining and living rooms, an eclectic assortment of furniture, pat-

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terned rugs and keepsakes offset crisp white walls and Brazilian mahogany floors.

“I don’t have one style. I like to keep things interesting,” Polli says. The Smiths have traveled all over the world—and they never come home empty-handed. That’s why built-in shelving in nearly every room was another big selling point. “There are nooks everywhere,” Polli says. “I told Kent, ‘Now I know where I can put all of our stuff.’”

Throughout the home, there’s an enviable collection of antiques and artifacts from the Smiths’ far-flung travels—from delicate hand-carved animals they picked up in the Amazon rainforest, to an eye-catching wooden fish sculpture purchased at a trading post in South Africa—and framed family photos and original artwork adorn the walls.

“Before we moved in, someone asked me if I

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AT HOME

Clockwise from top: Ten-foot-high ceilings soar above spacious living and dining rooms.

A soaking tub sprawls beneath a picture window in the first floor’s master bathroom.

A local woodworker replicated the koa bedframe Polli spotted in a magazine.

had enough art to fill this house,” Polli says.

“I just had to laugh.”

The staircase ascends to a bookshelflined landing that serves as a workspace for Polli’s crafting projects. The Smiths converted an upstairs guest bedroom into an office for Kent; overnight guests must content themselves with the second floor’s master suite, with its full bath, Jacuzzi tub, utility room with washer and dryer (to spare houseguests a trip to the laundry room downstairs), and a private balcony opening to ocean and mountain views. (So far, no one has complained.)

There’s no guarantee of sunshine in Kula, especially midday, when high-elevation clouds tend to form. Even so, the Smiths’ home is surprisingly bright. Daylight pours in through the skylight that dominates Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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210 Alamaha Street, Kahului | 808-873-6910 | mauihue.com

Before you go anywhere else, visit the Mind’s Eye Interiors in Lahaina.

MORE STYLE, MORE SELECTION, MORE MAUI

Living • Dining • Bedroom • Outdoor • Wall Decor •Accessories 1068 Limahana Pl., Lahaina • 808-667-7748 • MindsEyeInterior.com 72

MauiMagazine.net

the stairwell and well-placed windows on both floors (there are windows in every bathroom, the walk-in pantry, and most of the closets, too). During the winter, nighttime temperatures can dip into the forties, so the original owners wisely outfitted the home with a gas fireplace in the living room, heater lamps in all three bathrooms, and subfloor radiant heating in the first-floor master suite’s bathroom.

Polli and Kent love to entertain, and family gatherings and games—from croquet to chess to Rummykub—take place on the lawn or on the covered lānai. A white coralstone patio leads to lounge seating and

AT HOME

Clockwise from top: Polly calls the spacious lānai her “outdoor living room.” She and Kent fell in love with the second-floor master bath’s eyecatching hardware and contrasting marble and white subway tiles.

A croquet set waits to tempt family and friends into a game on the lawn. Even on cloudy days, the breakfast nook is a bright start to the morning.

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AT HOME

The living room’s gas fireplace creates a focal point—and warms up chilly Kula nights.

an outdoor gas fireplace under a dramatic columned gazebo with a latticed geometric roof. A wooden stairway descends from the gazebo to a lush expanse fringed by flower gardens and fruit trees. “There’s no excuse not to be outside here,” Polly says. “We like to sit in the gazebo during the day and watch the clouds. At night, you can look up and see the stars and the moon.”

Since the Smiths moved in last year, they’ve only had to roll up their sleeves twice: Kent refurbished the detached twocar garage (which now houses the green 1952 Ford F1 truck) and added a fresh coat of paint to the deck of the back porch.

“Other than that, the only thing we had to do,” Polli says, “was decide where to put the Christmas tree.”

RESOURCES Artel Inc. (architect) 808-250-1527 • ArtelMaui.com Cutting Edge Manufacturing, Inc. (cabinets) 1866 Wili Pa Loop, #B, Wailuku 808-870-1236 Ferguson (plumbing) 335 Hukilike Street, Kahului 808-877-4460 • Ferguson.com/Branch/ Kahului-Hi-Plumbing Jurassic Stoneworks (countertops) 2000 Mokulele Highway, Pu‘unēnē 808-873-7742 • JurassicMaui.com Pono Building Co., Inc. (general contractor) 4230 Lower Kula Road, Kula • 808-870-7979 • PonoBuildingCompany.com Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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Rare OCEANFRONT Property Privacy, mature fruit orchards, builder ready.

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JAMIE WOODBURN, R(S) HI License RS-63712 jamiewoodburn1@gmail.com 808.870.5671 R. PETERSON, R(S) HIJAMIEWOODBURN1@GMAIL.COM License RS-61995 Wendy@IslandSothebysRealty.com 808.870.4114 | CELL: 808.870.5671 JAMIEWENDY WOODBURN, R(S) | EMAIL: EACHREALTY OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED ISLAND SOTHEBY'S INTERNATIONL | EACH OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED

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Realtor®(B), Vice President, BIC Rob@IslandSothebysRealty.com MauiLuxuryProperties.com

808.281.4024

DINING

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi’s 2017

<<<<<<< STORY BY BECKY SPEERE | PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIEKO HORIKOSHI

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KONA LOBSTER POTSTICKERS Shiitake Mushrooms, Hearts of Palm, Soy-Chili Vinegar BIG ISLAND ABALONE CONGEE Mountain View Bounty Organic Eggs, Carrots, Garlic, Green Onions KAUA‘I SHRIMP Cedar-wrapped, Kula Herb-Garlic Butter, Sea Asparagus GINGER-STEAMED KAHUKU-FARMED MOI Chinese Sausage, Ginger, Scallions, Cilantro, Soy, Sizzling Peanut Oil HOUSE CAKE NOODLE Hāmākua Ali‘i Mushroom, Kula Onion, Otani Farms Carrots, Baby Bok Choy, Zucchini MAUI CATTLE COMPANY BEEF TENDERLOIN ON THE “PARTY ROCK” Ko Choo Jang, Seasoned Sesame Oil, Jade Pearl Rice, Lettuce Wraps DESSERT Kula Country Farms Strawberries MauiWine “Lokelani” Rose-chilled Sabayon

The menu threw Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s art director into a tailspin. “How can we make all these recipes in a few hours?” John Giordani exclaimed.

“Chef Tylun is a pro,” I assured him. “Don’t worry.”

How could I ask Tylun to cut a few dishes from his test-kitchen menu, when each was a favorite of mine? And not just mine; this test kitchen would spring from a treasured collection of family recipes that he wanted to share with the world. Plus, as my husband told me a few nights earlier, “Tylun is like the Godfather to all Maui’s chefs. They revere him.” Question the Godfather’s menu? No way.

Executive Chef Tylun Pang has managed the kitchens at the Fairmont Kea Lani for twenty-one years, including the resort’s finedining venue, Kō—the Hawaiian word for sugarcane. It’s no secret that Kō’s eclectic plantation menu is one of the best. Its blend of native Hawaiian fare with home-style foods brought to the islands

by Chinese, Japanese, Puerto Rican, Filipino, Korean and Portuguese

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immigrant workers has earned Kō seven Gold and four Silver ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards since it opened in March of 2012.

But today Chef is helming a more intimate kitchen—at the home of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi publisher Diane Haynes-Woodburn—helping the magazine’s staff prepare our annual Holiday Test Kitchen.

Tylun grew up on O‘ahu, where, he says, “My grandmother worked as a cook’s helper, making dim sum in Chinatown. My dad loved to cook as a hobby. He learned to make the crispy noodle dish we’ll prepare today because he got tired of taking us to the Chinese restaurant.” Then he laughs. “We’d go to the noodle shop and the noodle maker’s eyebrows to his toes were covered in white flour.”

Tylun hands me a small container of short-grained rice and says, “Soak this right away. This needs an hour’s soak for the abalone congee. And here’s the wine to soak the cedar wraps.”

Next he says, “We need to make the dessert and get it into the refrigerator to chill.” Diane happily quips, “Life is short. Make dessert

Top: Chef Tylun Pang (left) and Michael Haynes enjoy the delighted exclamations as Becky Speere (left) and Diane Haynes-Woodburn taste the test kitchen’s dishes. Bottom, left to right: Abalone congee creates a rich first course.

Chock-full of Kona lobster, the chewy potstickers marry deliciously with the vinegarinfused soy dipping sauce.

Opposite page: Eggs, honey and sparkling wine get stirred together for the sabayon.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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<<< << <<<< << <<< BIG ISLAND ABALONE CONGEE Mountain View Bounty Organic Eggs, Otani Farms Carrots, Garlic, Green Onions Yield: 10 servings | Prep Time: 1 hour 8 farm-raised Big Island abalones 8 teaspoons kosher salt Sprinkle a teaspoon of kosher salt on each abalone and scrub the foot and sides with a kitchen brush. Rinse well in cold water. Scoop the meat out of the shell with a spoon, reserving the intestines. Score and thinly slice the abalones with a sharp knife and start the congee.

Congee 1 cup short-grained rice, washed and soaked in water for 1 hour 1 tablespoon sesame oil 1 tablespoon garlic, chopped 1½ cups chicken stock or water ½ cup carrots, diced 1∕8 inch thick ½ cup green onions, thinly sliced crosswise 4 eggs, scrambled lightly 1½ teaspoons fish sauce or soy sauce 1 tablespoon kosher salt (or to taste) 2 yaki nori sheets, crushed, for garnish Drain the soaked rice in a strainer. In a pot on mediumhigh heat, add the sesame oil, garlic and reserved abalone intestines. Sauté for 30 seconds, then stir in the rice and cook for 2 more minutes. (The rice will turn opaque.) Stir the sliced abalones into the rice and mix well. Add the chicken stock, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover with a lid, and simmer for 10 minutes.

Remove the lid, add the diced carrots and simmer another 10 minutes. The congee will start to thicken.

Stir occasionally so it doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pot. Gently swirl the eggs into the simmering soup. Add the fish or soy sauce and salt to taste. Stir in the green onions and serve garnished with crumbled nori.

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1. Soaking the cedar wraps in wine makes them more pliable. 2. Add the chopped herbs and garlic to the softened butter. 3. Add lemon juice and Worcestershire sauce and stir all ingredients together. 4. A sharp knife is key to butterflying shrimp. 5. Stuff the shrimps with butter and seaweed, and place two on each wrap. 6. It helps to have four hands to tie the bundles. 7. Placed on a lined baking sheet, the packages are oven bound.

first!” Hearing “dessert,” Cathy Westerberg, our group publisher, steps up to the plate and separates eggs while I measure out the lavender honey and MauiWine’s Lokelani sparkling wine. Cathy belongs to a women’s tennis league, which turns out to be the perfect training for the job of whisking. Tylun shows her the proper figure-eight wrist action that will add loft to the eggs. He says, “If you see the eggs cooking at the edge, take it off the heat, keep whisking, then return to the stove. We don’t want scrambled eggs!” Minutes later, Cathy tastes the sabayon base she’s just made and rules it “Delicious!” Diane gently folds in the cream she has whipped, and the light and fluffy sabayon goes into the fridge.

Like the culinary choreographer that he is, Tylun has four dishes underway within the first thirty minutes. Michael Haynes heads business development for the magazine, but this morning finds him frenetically mincing garlic, tarragon, parsley and dill, then adding a touch of lemon juice and Worcestershire to the speckled green compound butter that will season the cedar-wrapped, fresh Kaua‘i shrimp. Diane gets a lesson 1. Senior editor Rita Goldman makes cuts to the carrot. 2. A generous sprinkling of salt on the abalone acts as a good abrasive. 3. Remove the bitter black pigment from the abalone. 4. A tablespoon pries the abalone from its shell. 5. Score the top and slice crosswise into thin strips. 6. Garlic and abalone innards sauté in sesame oil. 7. Fry the rice lightly before adding water. 8. Add the abalone. 9. Scored abalone slices form decorative “flowers.” 10. Slowly add beaten eggs and stir until thickened.

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DINING

KAUA‘I SHRIMP Cedar-wrapped with Kula Herb-Garlic Butter, Sea Asparagus Yield: 8 servings | Prep Time: 1 hour 16 large, whole Kaua‘i shrimp, butterflied and deveined 8 cedar cooking sheets (available from Korin Japanese Trading Corp., Korin.com) 8 large green onion stalks, blanched (for tying the cedar wraps) 8 ounces Kahuku sea asparagus 1 cup white wine (preferably MauiWine chardonnay) to soak the cedar sheets Kula herb-garlic butter: ½ pound salted butter ½ cup Italian parsley, chopped ¼ cup tarragon, chopped ¼ cup dill, chopped 6 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons Kula onion, minced kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 teaspoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Soak the cedar sheets in white wine for 30 minutes. This will make them pliable when rolling the shrimp and impart flavor during cooking. Soften the butter in a small bowl and mix in the chopped herbs, garlic and Maui onion. Season with salt and pepper and add the lemon juice and Worcestershire sauce. Keep cool until filling the shrimp.

Lay the soaked cedar sheets on your worktable. Place two butterflied shrimps on each sheet. Season the shrimps with salt and pepper and a sprinkling of white wine.

Fill the cavities with the herbed-garlic butter and top with a few sprigs of sea asparagus.

Roll the ends of the cedar sheets over, forming a tube that encases the shrimps.

Use a stalk of the blanched green onion to tie the cedar wraps. Place on a baking sheet and cook in the oven at 450 degrees until the shrimps are cooked through, about 5 to 10 minutes. Singe the ends of the cedar sheets with a kitchen torch for a nice smoky effect, garnish with fresh herbs, and serve.

Have fun!

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<< < <<< << <<<< << <<< KONA LOBSTER POTSTICKERS Shiitake Mushrooms, Heart of Palm, Soy-Chili Vinegar Yield: 24 dumplings | Prep Time: 1½ hours 1 whole, live Kona lobster, or 12 ounces of canned lobster meat, drained If using fresh lobster, heat a large pot of water to boiling. Place the lobster in the water, cover the pot and turn off the heat. Leave the lobster in for 3 minutes; remove and place in ice water to stop the cooking. Once the lobster has cooled, remove the tail and claws by twisting them away from its body. Meat should still be raw. Remove it from the shell by cracking the claws and splitting the tail with a knife. Devein and mince.

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Filling minced lobster ½ cup shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, diced 1∕8 inch thick ¼ cup heart of palm, diced 1∕8 inch thick 2 tablespoons Chinese parsley stems, minced 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon sugar ¼ teaspoon white pepper 2 teaspoons Shaoxing wine or dry sherry 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1 teaspoon sesame oil ½ cup green onions, finely sliced for garnish Wrappers 24 mandoo or wonton wrappers Prepare all the filling ingredients and mix together in a bowl.

Spoon a portion of the filling into the center of a potsticker wrapper, taking care not to overfill, or it will be difficult to seal.

Use your fingertip to moisten the edges of the wrapper with water and fold over to enclose the filling. Pleat the edges, pressing them firmly so the filling does not leak out. Repeat until all the wrappers are filled.

Heat a large, nonstick frying pan on medium-high heat and lightly coat it with vegetable oil. Place the potstickers in the pan and cook until the bottoms are golden brown. Carefully add 1 cup of water to the pan and quickly cover with a lid and steam the potstickers about 1–2 minutes. Garnish with finely sliced green onion and serve with the dipping sauce on the side.

Dipping sauce ½ cup soy sauce ½ cup rice wine vinegar 1 tablespoon Sriracha sauce 1 tablespoon sesame oil 3 tablespoons vegetable oil for pan frying Stir all ingredients together till well blended.

Garnish ½ cup thin-sliced green onions ¼ cup thin-sliced red bell pepper

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7 1. Chef cracks the lobster shell with the back of his knife to extract the meat. 2. Place a dollop of lobster filling in the center of the wrapper and moisten the edge so the dough adheres. 3. Fold the wrapper over and press the edge closed. 4. Pinch and push the edge to a decorative pleat that also ensures a tight closure. 5. A few tries, and you’ll be a potsticker pro. 6. Make sure the potstickers are golden brown and crisp before adding water for steaming. Wrappers turn translucent when cooked through. 7. Cathy Westerberg (center) and Diane pay close attention to Chef as he demonstrates potsticker assembly.

on butterflying and deveining the large shrimp. At the sink, John scrubs abalones for the congee with salt and rinses them under running water. “Why do we need to remove the black pigment?” he asks. “It would make the congee bitter,” says Tylun, then instructs John to thin-slice the abalones and score the edges for tenderness.

A pot of water boils on the stove, ready to blanch a live Kona lobster. Into the pot it goes and Chef orders, “Cook it for five minutes, just long enough to separate the meat from the shell. If you cook it too long, the meat will be too dry and crumbly. You want it to hold together in the wrapper.” After the lobster is cool enough to handle, Tylun assigns senior editor Rita Goldman the task of removing the meat from the shell and mincing it for the potstickers.

“I don’t think I’m the right person for this job,” she mutters, holding the ten-inch chef knife in an attitude somewhere between healthy respect and barely controlled panic. Tylun grins. “You know, newbies

SAVOUR Make every moment Grand.

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DINING

<< < <<<< << <<< HOUSE OF PANG CAKE NOODLES Hāmākua Ali‘i Mushroom, Kula Onion, Otani Farm Carrots, Baby Bok Choy, Zucchini Yield: 10–12 servings | Prep Time: 60 minutes | Cooking time: 15 minutes Noodles 1 pound fresh saimin (Hong Kong egg noodles) 4 tablespoons oil Place the noodles in a large pot of boiling water for 2–3 minutes. Drain noodles into a colander. Heat 4 tablespoons of oil in a large nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat.

Add the drained noodles and spread evenly to form a noodle cake that covers the bottom of the pan. Cook the noodles crisp and golden brown.

Flip the noodle cake over to crisp the other side. You may need to add more oil to complete the process.

Remove the crisp noodle cake to a cutting board, cut into square portions and arrange on a serving platter.

Vegetable stir-fry ½ cup Kula onions, sliced ½ inch wide 2 cups Hāmākua Ali‘i mushrooms, sliced 1 inch long x ¼ inch thick ½ cup carrots, peeled, sliced 1∕8 inch thick ½ cup zucchini, sliced into ¼ inch half rounds ½ cup red bell peppers, 1 inch dice 2 cups baby bok choy, cut into 1 inch pieces 4 tablespoons vegetable oil Cut vegetables per instructions in the ingredients list. Heat a large wok on high heat. Add the oil and stir-fry the vegetables, keeping them crisp.

Do not overcook. Add the thickened seasoned sauce below and serve over the crispy noodle cake.

Sauce 3 cups chicken stock 3 tablespoons oyster sauce 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 teaspoons sesame oil 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon sugar ½ teaspoon white pepper Slurry to thicken sauce 6 tablespoons cornstarch 1 cup water Place chicken stock and seasonings in a saucepot; bring to a boil. Mix the cornstarch and water together and whisk into the boiling stock to thicken. Keep hot to add to the vegetable stir-fry.

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1. Flipping the noodle cake with skill and ease. 2. Cutting the crispy noodle cake for the vegetable stir-fry pictured at top.

in my kitchen don’t need to be good,” he says.

“They just need to get better.”

Then he says, “We’ll use traditional flavoring for the potstickers’ lobster filling: ginger, garlic, sesame oil.” He seasons the minced lobster, then has Diane and Cathy fill mandoo wrappers with the mix. “I like mandoo wrappers because [they’re] thicker and chewier than wonton wrappers,” he explains.

The soaked rice is ready to make into congee. Tylun places it in a pot, adds oneand-a-half times that amount of water, and brings it to a boil. “We’ll serve this rice with the party-rock beef,” Chef says. “It’s different from regular rice”—and not just because it’s infused with bamboo powder that gives it a jade-green tint. “You don’t have to wash it. If

you do, the pigment will go down the drain.”

Diane and Cathy have been busily butterflying the shrimps; now they fill the slender crustaceans with Michael’s herb butter and place them inside a sheet of cedar that has soaked in MauiWine chardonnay. “Two shrimps to a wrapper . . . yin/yang. That’s how I like to lay the shrimp in the cedar because it cooks more evenly,” Tylun says. John gets the Boy Scout duty of tying square knots around each bundle with a single blade of blanched green onion. “It’s a two-man job,” Tylun says as he holds the cedar wraps in place.

Per Chef’s instructions, Michael juliennes ginger, minces chung choy (preserved salted turnip), and cuts the lup cheong (sweet Chinese sausage), then piles his handiwork onto

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DINING

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<< < <<< << <<<< << <<< GINGER-STEAMED KAHUKU-FARMED MOI With Chinese Sausage, Ginger, Green Onions, Chinese Parsley, Soy, Sizzling Peanut Oil Yield: 6–10 portions | Prep Time: 20 minutes | Cooking Time: 15 minutes 4 whole moi, 1½ pounds each, scaled and cleaned 12 lup cheong (Chinese sausages), sliced 1∕8 inch thick on the bias 4 teaspoons chung choi (salted turnip), rinsed and minced 4 tablespoons ginger root, peeled and julienned 4 teaspoons kosher salt ½ cup oyster sauce ¼ cup soy sauce ½ cup peanut oil Garnish 4 green onion stalks, julienned on the bias 1 small bunch Chinese parsley sprigs Prepare the lup cheong, chung choi and ginger root per the instructions on the ingredients list. Fill the bottom of a 3-tiered steamer with water; place it on high heat and bring the water to a boil.

Carefully place a cheesecloth in the steamer. (This will help remove the finished dish.) Place the moi in a serving dish that can fit in the steamer, season the fish with salt and top with chung choi, ginger and lup cheong. Place the platter of fish in the cheesecloth-lined steamer, gathering the cloth to the top.

Cover with lid. Cook 15 minutes, or until done. (Flesh will readily flake from the bone.) Carefully remove the dish from the steamer by lifting the cheesecloth from the top. Mix the oyster and soy sauces well and spoon over the steamed fish. Garnish with the green onions and Chinese parsley. Heat the peanut oil in a small saucepot over high heat until it is slightly smoking. Remove from heat, carefully drizzle over the fish and serve.

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1. Use a spoon to quickly coax the skin from the ginger root.

2. Cut the Asian ingredients for the fish. 3 & 4. Chef sprinkles the moi with chung choi and ginger, then blankets them with slices of lup cheong. 5 & 6. Wrapping the fish dish in cheesecloth makes it easy to remove from the steamer later.

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the moi that Tylun has laid side by side in a glass dish. Juices collect under the fish as deep, earthy turnip, ginger and lup cheong flavors drip and meld into a heavenly sauce. “In ancient Hawai‘i,” Tylun says, “this fish was harvested for royalty. It’s off-limits four months of the year to ensure sustainability. This preparation is my dad’s all-time favorite and we always made it for special occasions.”

Diane and I nod; this is our favorite dish at Kō Restaurant.

“Every time I see this dish go out the door, I think of my dad.”

As Tylun says this, I think of the Chinese word xiao. I learned about it reading Di Zi Gui, Guide to a Happy Life. A foundation of Chinese culture for 5,000 years, xiao means to be dutiful to one’s parents with affection, and to understand the relationship of grandparents, parents and self. The ideogram’s top portion means “elder,” while the bottom means “son.” Combined, it conveys the concept that the two generations are one. Tylun lives by these words as he shares his beliefs about his work, family and the community. “I know where I came from. I know my roots. And I know who took me there.”

The final preparation is a Maui Cattle Co. beef tenderloin. Tylun expertly trims the silver connective tissue from the lean loin. In reference to the generous size of the filet, he says, “I love our locally grown beef from Maui Cattle Company. What I see here is not only the large, grass-fed tenderloin, but I see that the island had rain, that the cattle had lots of food.” He hands the loin to Mike and says, “Cut it thin, about an eighth-inch thick, because this will cook on the hot party rock.”

The “party rock” is a smooth, manmade rock about two inches thick and eight inches in diameter, flat on the bottom and slightly curved on the top. It’s been heating directly on a burner for the past thirty minutes, and is searing hot. Tylun instructs Diane to

F L E E T W O O D ’ S R E S TA U R A N T & B A R F L E E T W O O D ’ S G E N E R A L S TO R E M A U I & M O R R I S O N H O T E L G A L L E RY

FOLLOW US AROUND, WE DON’T MIND

Let Us Make Memories For You

LAHAINA,

MAUI

DINING

<< << <<<< << <<< MAUI CATTLE CO. BEEF TENDERLOIN ON THE “PARTY ROCK” Ko Choo Jang, Seasoned Sesame Oil, Jade Pearl Rice, Lettuce Wraps Yield: 10 servings of approximately 2 lettuce wraps each | Prep Time: 45 minutes The party rock is an Ishiyaki stone, manmade in Japan, and is available from Korin Japanese Trading Corporation (Korin.com). It can heat to temperatures over 500 degrees Fahrenheit, and heats best over a gas flame.

The larger the stone, the more time it needs to heat. The stone is presented at the dining table, where diners can cook their own meat, poultry, fish or vegetable. The party rock is a great conversation piece and fun to use, but a small tabletop grill will also work for this dish and can be just as interactive and fun.

A FAMILY TRADITION

Tylun and Mary Jo Pang have always emphasized giving back to the community. While their children participated in sports and extracurricular activities at school, the Pangs weren’t in the bleachers, but in the food booths, cooking and serving to help raise funds for their children’s schools’ sports teams. Also, 100 percent of the proceeds from Tylun’s cookbook, What Maui Likes to Eat, is donated to UH–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program for student scholarships. Written with Maui author/historian Gail Ainsworth, What Maui Likes to Eat includes recipes from this test kitchen, and much more. It’s available for purchase at the Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, and from booksellers.

Tenderloin 1½ pounds Maui Cattle Co. beef tenderloin, trimmed and sliced 3 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil Remove all fat and silver skin from the beef tenderloin and cut into 24 slices. Brush the slices lightly with vegetable oil, arrange on a serving platter and keep chilled until needed.

Ko choo jang 6¾ ounces ko choo jang (red chili paste) 5 ounce white miso 1 ∕3 cup rice vinegar ½ cup soy sauce 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds 1 tablespoon sesame oil 2 tablespoons honey Whisk ingredients together and keep refrigerated until service. Serve in 2-ounce portions in individual sauce dishes.

Seasoned sesame oil 10 tablespoons sesame oil 10 teaspoons kosher salt 5 teaspoons fresh-ground black pepper Mix ingredients in a bowl and divide evenly into individual sauce dishes.

Jade pearl rice 2 cups rice 3 cups water ½ teaspoon kosher salt Combine water, rice and salt in a saucepot.

Bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from heat and let rest, covered, 10 more minutes. Use a rice spoon to fluff the rice before serving.

Lettuce wraps 2 heads butter lettuce Lightly scrub the lettuce leaves; rinse well and dry in a salad spinner or on a towel to remove excess water. Separate leaves. To assemble, place 2 tablespoons rice on the leaf and top with cooked beef and dipping sauces. Wrap lettuce around filling. Enjoy!

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Top: Korean-style beef wrapped in lettuce leaf gets spicy with ko choo jang sauce.

Above: Interactive tabletop cooking adds festivity to our holiday dinner.

rub each piece of meat with Maui Olive Oil, then carefully removes the rock from the burner and sets it in a wooden bowl filled with salt. He brings the bowl to the table, lifts a slice of meat with his chopsticks, and places it on the rock. The meat sizzles and smokes, giving off a tantalizing fragrance as it quickly cooks.

Wrapped in their thin bamboo jackets, the stuffed shrimps have been baking on a sheet pan for ten minutes. As Tylun pulls them from the oven, the aroma of shellfish married with garlic and heady herbs envelops us. We inhale and sigh. Tylun picks up his propane torch, and Whoosshhhh!

The cedar wraps ignite and sweet cedar smoke rises. Chef tells us why, at Kō, this last preparation occurs at tableside: “Being able to share with our diners the thought and process we put into the food is very meaningful to me. We smell this wonderful food in the kitchen, but the guests can’t, so we transport the excitement of the food, the aroma and all the senses of this dish

to them with the smoking cedar.”

For dessert, the pièce de résistance: Lokelani sparkling-wine sabayon lightly garnished with chocolate shavings, Upcountry Maui strawberries, and a chunk of Chef’s sensationally crunchy macadamia-nut brittle. Lavender honey lightly kisses the palette with a soft, lingering finish of wine and yeast.

Tylun slowly unties his apron and smiles at the accomplishments of the day. As he finally sits at the table and shares his thoughts, you know the Godfather has spoken: “Every time I cook, I feel the essence of my family. The food and culture [a r e] t h e m o s t important to me.

I’ve found my soul in food.”

Find the dessert recipe at MauiMagazine.net/ recipe-sabayonstrawberries.

Andaz Maui’s award-winning, signature restaurant delivers a farm-fresh, seasonal and sophisticated culinary experience utilizing Hawai’i’s rich culinary heritage. Helmed by Executive Chef Isaac Bancaco, the venue’s open kitchen and indoor/outdoor dining options provide an engaging experience in fine dining, island style.

For the ultimate foodie indulgence, ask about our exclusive Chef’s table or Bitter’s and Bites experience.

Breakfast Dinner

6:30 am - 11:00 am 5:30 pm - 9:00 pm

Reservations can be made at +1 808 243 4703 Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort | 3550 Wailea Alanui Drive

Dining Highlights Casanova’s Deli

TOPS OF THE MORNING It’s more than breakfast. It’s comfort food. Done right, that first meal of the day can satisfy any flavor cravings. Here are a few of our favorite taste-bud-pleasing eateries on Maui’s south and north shores, plus one Upcountry. (Next issue: great breakfast cafes and restaurants on Maui’s west side.)

STORY & PHOTOS BY BECKY SPEERE

Casanova Deli

Sarento’s on the Beach

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Warm croissants, fresh from the oven, fill the room with buttery yumminess just as the first omelet of the day—mine—is placed in front of me. Organic eggs scrambled with sundried tomatoes and green onions create the perfect wrap for a generous portion of sautéed mushrooms, tomatoes and spinach.

One of my early culinary jobs was at this very deli; periodically, I drop in for one of the best cappuccinos in town and tender, crunchy croissants. As I sit on the deck overlooking sleepy Makawao town, St. Joseph’s steeple in the trees beyond, I reminisce about my two years at Casanova’s and the four-in-the-morning work shift. Chef Rishi continues the tradition, although he smartly begins his day later, producing such specials as arancini (deep-fried rice balls with mozzarella) and lasagna made with fresh, house-made pasta. Pasta salads, Caprese and tiramisu have been standard fare since 1987, when four partners opened the deli. One of them, Steve Burgelin, joins

me for a few minutes and says in his lilting Italian, “Ciao, Becky!” His energy is as high and upbeat as when I first met him. “The deli is going strong and we’re fortunate to have a great staff that cares about the business,” he tells me. Indeed, not much has changed, not even the prices. 1188 Makawao Avenue, Makawao, 572-0220.

Sarento’s on the Beach Sunlight floods the understated dining room just a stone’s throw from the turquoise ocean. I’ve come for the second time in as many weeks for the house specialty: Pacific Benedict, Chef Geno Sarmiento’s take on the classic, served with choron (Béarnaise with tomato sauce) blanketing poached eggs and crab cakes on toasted English muffins. Grilled asparagus and dill-potato pancake topped with sour cream complete a dish that easily satisfies breakfast and lunch at a single sitting. If you’re as lucky as I am, your companion will order—and share bites of—the French crêpes filled with

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medium, or over-the-top hot. Tirtha Luitel, Kamana’s owner, imports ingredients for his three restaurants (two on Hawai‘i Island) for recipes made from old family recipes.

Tender samosas, savory pastries filled with potato and peas or house-made cheese are also a must. 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8797888, KamanaKitchen.com Top, left to right: Jaw’s Country Store, Paia Bowls. Above (3): Kamana Kitchen

a light Tahitian vanilla pastry cream topped with fresh berries and drizzled with liliko‘i mango sauce; or Cobb salad with skewered grilled chicken, avocado, arugula, and cherry tomatoes crowned with a poached egg and warm bacon vinaigrette. Brunch begins at 7 a.m.; sleepyheads can waltz in any time up until 3 p.m. Get there by 11 a.m. to enjoy specially priced $7 eye-opener cocktails. 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555, SarentosOnTheBeach.com

Jaws Country Store The sun is at its zenith when I realize, after feeding my hens and harvesting avocados, that I haven’t eaten since rolling out of bed. A five-minute drive down Hāna Highway, and I’m at my favorite local café, Jaws Country Store. Executive Chef Koa Taylor greets me with a cheery hello. I feel family-style warmth—and a little confusion: Do I order the savory and juicy Maui Cattle Co. beef brisket bahn mi, or eggs? I opt for the latter, and soon two perky and perfect poached eggs appear at the pickup counter, jiggling atop sautéed mushrooms, onions, and thick-cut smoked bacon with a spread of bright herby basil

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pesto on artisan sourdough. I sit at the mango-wood bar under the eaves of the store, although the umbrella-covered picnic tables on the big lawn share the same cool breezes. Fresh honey lemonade, not too sweet, complements the rich, open-faced breakfast sandwich. 4320 Hāna Highway, Ha‘ikū, 419-6887, JawsCountryStore.com

Kamana Kitchen When I was growing up on Hawai‘i Island, a big pot of chicken or beef curry stew simmered on the stove at least once a week in our kitchen. To this day, I crave the heady mix of coriander, turmeric and ginger-spiked curries bubbling long and gently and eaten over white rice in the morning.

Luckily for me, a hidden treasure has opened in Kīhei, and is quickly being discovered by locals and tourists. Kamana Kitchen’s lunch buffet offers fourteen choices, from savory dals and curries to sweet rice pudding. Tempered with the richness of ghee, cream, coconut milk or yogurt, the food will transport you to Nepal or Tibet. À la carte dishes such as chicken tikka masala, madrashi, and lamb korma can be adjusted to your desire: mild,

Paia Bowls It was one of those mornings: I could feel my body hollering, “Antioxidants! Minerals!

Vitamins and heart-healthy food!” Açai bowl to the rescue! I picked one with bee pollen, ground hemp seeds on crunchy hemp granola, goji berries, strawberries and papaya. Sitting at a table under the canopy of trees—coconut, kukui, banana and a feathery monkeypod—I could feel myself rejuvenating with each bite.

Tucked behind Puka Puka, Paia Bowls is the partnership of brothers/professional surfers Ian and Luke Walsh; you’re likely to run into other ocean athletes grabbing a Surf Bowl (pure açai), or a Blend Bowl (a combo of puréed berries).

The fruit of the South American açai palm, açai is touted for its antioxidants, immune-system support and other health claims. A favorite of Gen X-ers and millennials, it truly is a great plant-based alternative to traditional breakfast. Ian and Luke’s menu also includes 100 percent Maui coffee, fresh fruit smoothies, kombucha on tap, samovar tea and twenty-two topping choices for your açai bowl—from protein powder, chia seeds and peanut butter, to a variety of fresh island fruit. 43 Hāna Highway, Pā‘ia, 214-6504, PaiaBowls.com

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OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT

OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT Happy Hour From 3 pm - 6 pm & 9 pm - 12 am | 100 Wailea Ike Drive Happy Hour From 3 pm - 6 pm & 9 pm - 12 am | 100 Wailea Ike Drive Located across from the Wailea Blue Golf Course Pro Shop Located across from the Wailea Blue Golf Course Pro Shop OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT TAKEOUT & DELIVERY: 808.874.7499

Happy Hour From 3 pm -DAILY 6 pm & pm- 808.874.7499 - 12MIDNIGHT am | 100 Wailea Ike Dr OPEN 119AM 12 TAKEOUT & DELIVERY: | 100 Wailea Happy Houracross From 3from pm -the 6 pm & 9 pm amCourse Ike Driv Located Wailea Blue- 12 Golf Pro Shop

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Located across from the Wailea Blue Golf Course Pro Shop OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT

Happy Hour From 3 pm - 6 pm & 9 pm - 12 am | 100 Wailea Ike Drive 100 Wailea Ike Drive, Wailea, Maui Located across& from the Wailea Blue Golf Course Pro Shop TAKEOUT DELIVERY: 808.874.7499 Located on the Wailea Blue808.874.7499 Golf Course TAKEOUT & DELIVERY:

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ManolisPizzaCompany.com

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OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT Happy Hour From 3 pm - 6 pm & 9 pm - 12 am | 100 Wailea Ike Drive OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT OPENfrom DAILY AMBlue - 12 Golf MIDNIGHT Located across the 11 Wailea Course Pro Shop

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100 best restaurants for foodies in america -wine spectator best maui restaurant 25 years in a row -honolulu magazine readers poll

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| 127 lahainaluna road, lahaina, maui, hawaii 96761 | www.lahainagrill.com

ManolisPizzaCompany.com

ManolisPizzaCompany.com ManolisPizzaCompany.com

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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Maui Mixology

NAUGHTY & SPICED

Holiday cocktails?

No time like the present!

STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

As a gift to Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi readers, two ‘Aipono Award-winning restaurants, Lahaina Grill (2017’s Best Wine List) and Andaz Maui (2017’s Silver for Most Innovative Menu), generously agreed to share cocktail recipes that are perfect for the season. Glancing at the ingredients, I notice a constant—rum—and before I know it, I’m humming “Little Drummer Boy”: Pa rum pum pum pum, rum pum pum pum . . . me and my drum. How’s that for an upbeat way to celebrate the holidays!

Lahaina Grill’s Holiday Rum Cocktail 2 Ways Spiced Pear

Shake all ingredients in a cocktail shaker and strain into a cinnamonand-sugar-rimmed martini glass.

Garnish with lemon twist.

Naughty Elf

1½ ounces Kraken Black Spiced Rum ½ ounce pear liqueur ¾ ounce lemon juice 1 ounce apple cider ¼ ounce spiced simple syrup (below) dash bitters

Shake all ingredients in a cocktail shaker and strain into bucket with a large ice cube. Garnish with a clove-studded lemon peel.

Spiced Simple Syrup Yield: 1 cup ½ cup sugar ½ cup water 1 cinnamon stick 2 cloves 3 allspice berries 4 black peppercorns Bring to boil, cool and strain.

Refrigerate.

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Andaz Maui’s Queen’s Park Swizzle In 2013, renowned New York mixologist Julie Reiner swizzled her variation of the classic mojito for Andaz Maui. The original was created in the 1920s in Trinidad; Reiner’s mojito carries more character and oomph, with mint from Maui’s Evonuk Farms and fresh-squeezed lime juice layered with flavors from the herbaceous bitters.

2 ounces aged Demerara rum (Reiner recommends El Dorado’s) 1 ounce fresh lime juice ½ ounce rich simple syrup (a sugar/water ratio of 2:1) crushed ice or pebble ice (slightly larger and more rounded than crushed ice) 2 dashes Angostura bitters 2 dashes Peychaud’s bitters 1 mint sprig, for garnish Combine the rum, lime juice and rich simple syrup in a chilled Collins glass.

Fill the glass with crushed ice and use a swizzle stick or bar spoon to mix the drink, then add more crushed ice, almost to the rim. Top with bitters and garnish with the mint sprig.

TOP RIGHT: CHRIS ARCHER; LEFT (2): COURTESY OF LAHAINA GRILL

1½ ounces SelvaRey White Rum ½ ounce pear liqueur ½ ounce fresh lemon juice 1 ounce pear purée ½ ounce spiced simple syrup (below)

Just steps from the water’s edge.

Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!

Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com

The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours.

505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com

PERFECT FOR CELEBRATIONS OF ALL SIZES! Whether it’s an intimate dinner for 10 or an office Holiday Gala for 100 – let us help you create a memorable event with our elevated comfort classics, fresh and local ingredients and interesting array of wine and spirits.

Indoor and outdoor dining with a vibrant bar scene. Views to the neighboring island of Molokai and West Maui Mountains from our lanai.

Full buyouts available for more private entertaining: Book and guarantee by October 31st, 2017 for buyout prices starting at $10,000.

Regular pricing starting at $12,000.

Hours: 8AM-9PM Happy Hour: Daily 3PM-6PM 808.669.9600 PINEAPPLEGRILLMAUI.COM

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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dining guide

See More Listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

B = Breakfast BR = Brunch  L = Lunch  D = Dinner N = Dinner past 9 p.m.  RR = Reservation recommended $ = Average entrée under $15 $$ = Under $25 $$$ = Under $40  $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2017

WEST SIDE A Fianco, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667. Sale Pepe’s sister restaurant is una bellezza! Salads, panini, and thin-crust pizza are made traditionally under Chef Michele’s watchful eyes. Italian. L. $–$$

Black Rock Kitchen & Lounge, Sheraton Maui, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808-921-4600.

Grilled catch of the day comes with coconut Moloka‘i purple sweet potato and ginger-spiced broccolini glazed with yuzu brown butter. The mac-nut brittle bar is to die for. ‘Ohana (family-style) dining available. Kidfriendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, D. $$$

Cliff Dive Grill, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031.

Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$ Cool Cat Café, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908.

Burgers, chicken, fish and more, all in a fifties-diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $

WEST SI Aloha Mixed Plate, 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322. Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate.

L, D, N. $

Breakwall Shave Ice, The Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900. Cool off with one of the best snow cones on Maui, and discover your favorite island flavor. Treats. $

Auntie’s Kitchen, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200.

Saimin, burgers and fresh-fish plate lunches mingle with other local fare. Local Mixed Plate. B, L, D. $–$$

Cane & Canoe, Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681. An impressive steak program features filet mignon, American Wagyu rib-eye, and Australian lamb chops. Modern, plantation-style bar offers light fare and full island-inspired restaurant menu. Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$–$$$$

The Banyan Tree, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096. Hokkaido seared scallops with smoked pork belly. Kula corn and farro risotto with Hāmākua mushroom. Smoked rib-eye steak, Ali‘i mushrooms and white cheddar potatoes. Need we say more? Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$

Choice Health Bar, 1087 Limahana Pl., Lahaina, 661-7711. Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are all made with fresh local ingredients. Daily specials, and an epic entrée with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red-pepper sesame sauce.

American. B, L. $

Down the Hatch, The Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900. Mermaid fries with cheese, bacon, ranch dressing and lava sauce; towering shrimp cocktails; fresh island fish; and lots of southern aloha . . . so many reasons to dine here!

Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, N, RR. $$

Drums of the Pacific, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234. Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly.

Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Duke’s, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900. Imagine Old Hawai‘i at this open-air beach house while dining on crab-andmacadamia-nut wontons or prime rib. Kid-friendly.

American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$ The Feast at Lele, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 6675353. This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$

As Seen on

Guy Fieri’s “Triple D”

Fleetwood’s on Front St., 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. Pacific oysters with a tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome, and a onepound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. Bar opens 2 p.m.

American/British Pub Food. D. $$–$$$$ Foodland, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0975.

Don’t let the fact that it’s a supermarket fool you.

From spicy ‘ahi and sesame shoyu octopus, to Korean shredded dried ika (squid), these poke choices will boggle your mind. But order up! Folks are waiting in line behind you! Second West Maui location: 345 Keawe St., Lahaina, 662-7088. Poke. $ Frida’s Mexican Beach House, 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287. Chalupas, fresh chili agua ‘ahi, and short-rib tacos served with ocean views and fresh mixology. Latin-inspired. L, D. $–$$ The Gazebo, Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-5621. Mac-nut pancakes, French toast and legendary fried rice served with an ocean view. Kid-friendly. American. B, L. $ Honu Seafood & Pizza, 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390. Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$

Azeka Place, Mauka

(808) 891-MISO (6476)

1279 South Kihei Rd. #108, Kihei 96

MauiMagazine.net

MisoPhat.com

Hula Grill, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636. Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy kiawe-grilled ono on fresh spinach,

Become a part of our most memorable evening of the year by voting for your favorite restaurants.

Vote & Win!

First Prize: $200 gift certificate to an ‘Aipono Award-winning restaurant Second Prize: $100 gift certificate to an ‘Aipono Award-winning restaurant Winners of our drawing will be announced in the May/June “Best Dining” issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi.

OUR ‘AIPONO RESTAURANT AWARDS GALA BENEFITS UNIVERSITY OF HAWAI’I MAUI CULINARY ARTS PROGRAM

SIGN UP FOR OUR ‘AIPONO NEWSLETTER TO STAY CURRENT WITH THE GALA AND WINE DINNERS AT MAUIMAGAZINE.NET/AIPONO.

VOTING CLOSES DECEMBER 31, 2017. WINNERS WILL BE PRESENTED AT OUR AWARDS GALA IN APRIL 2018.

‘Aipono Awards BALLOT 2018 Vote for your favorite Maui restaurants at: MauiMagazine.net/VoteAipono

Or fill this out and mail to 90 Central Ave. Wailuku, HI 96793 Ballots must be received by Dec 31, 2017, to be eligible for drawing. Vote in at least 10 categories and be entered to win! See rules below.

1. RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

13. BEST ASIAN

25. BEST FISH & SEAFOOD

2. BEST NEW RESTAURANT

14. BEST SOUTHEAST ASIAN

26. BEST STEAK

I love taking visiting family and friends here— it’s the quintessential Maui place.

15. BEST BURGER

27. BEST SUSHI

4. BEST SERVICE

16. BEST HAWAI‘I REGIONAL CUISINE

28. BEST FISH TACO

The best of everything rolled into one: great food, service, value and ambiance.

My favorite Maui spot that opened in 2017.

For great Chinese, Korean or Japanese cuisine, this is my first choice.

Vietnamese? Thai? Filipino? This restaurant is oriented to the best!

For fresh fish and succulent preparation, this restaurant is the catch of the day.

When I’m here, I know my favorite cut of beef will be prepared to a T.

3. MOST “MAUI-EST”

I can count on the staff here to be prompt, knowledgeable and attentive to my needs.

Eh, like beef? This is the place I recommend.

This restaurant excels at combining the flavors of the Islands.

Hooked on great sushi? Land here.

Holy guacamole, this dish gets my sì, sì!

29. BEST FOOD TRUCK

5. BEST OCEANFRONT DINING

17. BEST PACIFIC RIM CUISINE

6. MOST ROMANTIC SETTING

18. BEST LŪ‘AU

7. BEST SHORTS & SLIPPERS DINING

19. BEST MEXICAN

8. BEST HEALTHY FARE

20. BEST ITALIAN

9. MOST INNOVATIVE MENU

21. BEST MEDITERRANEAN/MIDDLE EASTERN

10. BEST BREAKFAST

22. BEST PLATE LUNCH

Great local-style grinds? This one’s da kine!

Three cheers for this venue’s masterful mixologists!

11. BEST BUSINESS LUNCH

23. BEST PIZZA

35. BEST LOBBY LOUNGE

The crusts? Upper crust! The toppings? Flat-out the best.

A well-stocked bar and great atmosphere make this my favorite place to linger.

12. BEST HAPPY HOUR

24. BEST NOODLES

36. BEST WINE LIST

Ocean views and a salt-scented breeze add a savory note to this well-crafted menu.

I propose this as the perfect place to pop that important question.

Come as you are—the food is good and the setting is casual.

Dining here takes my taste buds on adventures across the Pacific and into the Far East.

Authentic island foods and entertainment make this is my favorite.

When I crave something South of the Border, I come here.

Fast service and tasty fare . . . I call this heaven on wheels.

30. BEST POKE

The perfectly seasoned raw fish they serve here tops my scale of 1 to 10.

31. BEST SHAVE ICE

If I had a slush fund, here’s where I’d spend it.

32. BEST DESSERT

Vegan, vegetarian, or other dietary preferences—these folks do a great job.

This kitchen’s culinary creativity keeps me coming back for more.

My favorite place to do as the Romans do.

For the love of pita—and hummus, gyros, falafel, couscous and baba ganoush—dine here.

My conclusion? This restaurant makes the yummiest finish to a meal.

33. BEST BAR

This is the spot where everybody knows my name.

34. BEST HANDCRAFTED COCKTAILS

Here’s my favorite place to start the day.

Bottom line? This is where I like to bring clients, or meet with colleagues over lunch.

Here’s to my favorite after-work spot for drinks and pūpū with friends.

Chow fun? Pad Thai? Any way you slice it, this is my favorite noodle house!

Bottled perfection: this restaurant’s excellent selection and knowledgeable servers.

CONTEST RULES: Ballots must be received no later than December 31, 2017. One ballot (print or online) per person; duplicates will be discarded. You must vote in at least 10 categories for your ballot to be a valid entry. Two prize-winning ballots will be selected at random December 31. Participation is open to all MNKO readers 18 years and older.

Employees, advertisers and promotional partners of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi may vote but are not eligible to win prizes. Mail ballots to: ‘Aipono Awards, 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793.

lahaina fried soup homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music.

Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$ Japengo, Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4796. Authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood. Steak, too! Japanese. D, N. $$$ Joey’s Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474. Try the braised short-rib pho on rice noodles, corn and sweet peppers in rich ginger beef broth. Second West Maui location: Nāpili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$

yakitori

pahole salad

star udon

garlic noodles

singapore noodles

steamed pork buns hapa ramen

ahi avo pad thai

sake cocktails

Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0011. Dine in casual comfort with the Tiki Restaurant’s full-service menu, or challenge yourself to try all the offerings at the award-winning Sunday brunch. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$

IDE

Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room, Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 100 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6677733. From the people who brought Cheeseburger in Paradise to Lahaina comes this venue serving burgers, sandwiches, pizzas and salads. Dinner adds steak, fresh fish and pasta. Thirty wines under $30 a bottle. American. D. $–$$ Kai Sushi, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. Chef Tadashi Yoshino and his team work sushi magic. Large selection of Japanese saké. Sushi. D. $$$

Lahaina Grill, 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117. Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad; Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with vanilla-bean jasmine rice; or the famous Kona coffee roasted rack of lamb with coffee-cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selections and cocktails. American/Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495. Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors like sesame crusted seared ‘ahi with shiitake mushroom butter soy sauce; and Korean gochujang risotto with salt-and-peppah mahi. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D, N. $$ Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600. The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw, and ice-cold beer or just-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance. After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie! American. B, L, D. $ Local Boys Shave Ice, 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476. This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. Also see South Shore listing. Treats. $

Longhi’s, 888 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2288. For breakfast at this open-air landmark, try the eggs Benedict on thick toasted French bread. For dinner, use the jalapeño cheese bread to sop up sauce served with the shrimp Longhi. Italian. B, L, D. $$$–$$$$ Maui Sugar Shop, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 662-0033.

Delectable gluten-free, paleo and vegan delights like quiches, Belgian waffles, muffins, cakes and more.

Bakery/Café. B, L. $ Mauka Makai, Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6400. Expect the freshest fish, beef and lamb, vegetable sautés, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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and island-inspired desserts at this restaurant that celebrates the fishing and farming cultures of ancient Hawai‘i. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$

mahi dinner with glazed asparagus, pickled tomatoes and salsa verde. Expansive offering of reasonably priced wine and beer. B, L, D. $–$$$

Merriman’s Kapalua, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 669-6400. Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create some of Maui’s most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, RR. $$–$$$$

Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636. Views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, D. $–$$

served poolside in an open-air setting. Kid-friendly.

American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Relish Oceanside, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525.

Fried rice with Asian-style braised beef, fresh mahi atop luscious and cheesy risotto, and a great kale salad with chunky macadamia nuts. World-class mixology by Fred Sconfienza. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$-$$$

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Pizza Paradiso2017 Mediterranean Grill, 3350 L. Miso Phat Sushi, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929. Juicy BEST ITALIAN BESTgyros, flavorful falafel in warm BEST Kahana, 669-9010.

See South Side listing. pita bread with a side BEST NEW RESTAURANT ITALIAN ITALIAN of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or Myths of Maui, Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$ Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9119. Enjoy live music, Polynesian dance, and an island-inspired buffet, comPlantation House Restaurant, 2000 Plantation plete with unearthing of the kalua pig from the imu.

Club Dr., Kapalua, 669-6299. Rock your inner Cajun Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$ with ‘Aipono 2017 Chef of the Year Jojo Vasquez’s Kaua‘i shrimp ètouffée, prepared with Adoboloco’s Old Lāhaina Lū‘au, 1251 Front St., Lahaina, Hamajang hot sauce and scallion-polenta cake with 667-1998. Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomilomi lime crème. Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, L, D. $$$ salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian.

Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance.

Prison Street Pizza, 133 Prison St., Lahaina, Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ 662-3332. East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Captivating! Italian/Pizza. L, D. $ Pacific’O, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341.

Owner Louis Coulombe’s decadent fish tacos and Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali bahn mi sandwiches are memorable lunch fare. For Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, dinner, try the lobster ravioli or coconut-dusted mahi 667-3200. Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with with Thai lemongrass-peanut sauce on black mochi Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i rice. Spectacular oceanfront dining. Hawai‘i Regional. prawn risotto. End with chocolate almond cake and L, D. $$$$ amarena gelato. Closed Tues–Wed. Italian. D. $$$ Pineapple Grill, 200 Kapalua Dr. Kapalua, 6699600. You don’t have to golf to eat here! Try the breakfast chorizo and egg burrito smothered in green chiles and cheddar cheese, or a satisfying grilled mahi-

Relish Burger Bistro, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525.

All-natural Kobe beef burgers, fish sandwiches, salads with island greens, and huli huli grilled chicken breast,

Roy’s, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 6696999. At lunch, line up for the best burger on Maui.

For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled ginger.

Save room for the signature Melting Hot Dark Chocolate Soufflé. Pacific Rim. L, D. $$–$$$$

Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Lahaina Center, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 661-8815. Steaks worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earn the chain loyal fans. This venue doesn’t stray from the flock. Several tables overlook the harbor. American. D, N. $$$$ Sale Pepe, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667.

Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta like Chef Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian/Pizza. D. $$

Sangrita Grill + Cantina, Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 662-6000. South of the Border goes upper crust with queso fundido, chimichangas, enchilada and chile relleno plates, awardwinning rotisserie chicken, and happy hour with muchas buenas prices! Mexican. L, D. $–$$ Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286. D.K. Kodama’s restaurant draws lines late into the night. Small and action-packed, this classy sushi bar is the place to try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$

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Son’z Steakhouse, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, ribeye steak, or classically prepared, line-caught mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/Steak. D, N. $$$$ Star Noodle, 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 6675400. Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$ Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors, 226 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 667-9000. Head to the refrigerated section to find a huge selection of fresh ‘ahi poke prepared in Maui’s ethnic flavors of the rainbow: Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Hawaiian, plus poke bowls made to order. Poke. $

2017 BEST ITALIAN

The Sea House Restaurant, Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500.

Start your day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp while the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammywinner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack-key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$

BEST ITALIAN

Taverna, 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 6672426. House-made pastas, agrodolce-style fish of the day, and Italian desserts that stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Beginning to end, Taverna is a dining heaven. Great wine, cocktails, and exotic craft beer. Italian. D. $$–$$$

New Head Chef Alvin Savella brings his colorful Hawaiian culture and fiery passion for food to The Banyan Tree.

Born and raised on Maui, he thrives on utilizing the freshest local ingredients. His modern presentations have a local flair and let the deep flavors of the ingredients shine. Embark on a culinary journey with his tantalizing new menu emphasizing the freshest seafood and Hawaiian flavors highlighted by interactive, tableside presentations.

Open Daily: 5:30pm – 9pm 808-665-7096 One Ritz-Carlton Drive, Kapalua, HI 96761 www.ritzcarlton.com/banyantree www.facebook.com/RitzCartlonKapalua

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Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111. The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Kidfriendly. American. L, D. $ Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600. Start with Oyster Dan—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko— then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate.

Japanese/Steak. D, RR. $$$ Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine 2, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-9911/283-5202. Filet mignon in creamy Thai chili sauce, chicken panang curry, and many vegetarian selections. Coconut mango sticky rice pudding will plunk you into tropical heaven. Thai. L, D. $–$$

Restaurant open daily at 10am 335 Keawe St, Lahaina Gateway 808-661-9111 Check truck locations on Social Media

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Ask about Special Events Catering! Call 280-9371

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 790 Front St., Lahaina. Homemade tropical-flavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart.

Second West Maui location: Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. Kid-friendly. Treats. $ ‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos.

Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, D. $$$ Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525.

Fire dancers ignite the excitement, and hula dancers sway as you enjoy a Polynesian feast. Kid-friendly.

Lū‘au. D. RR. $$$$

SOUTH SHORE

1054 Togoshi, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 868--0307.

Chef Manabu’s twenty-five years as a sushi chef— two of them as head chef at Morimoto’s Maui—shine through in fresh sashimi and sushi. Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of each month. Sushi. D. $-$$ Amigo’s, 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9952. See West Side listing.

Bistro Molokini, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh, local ingredients and served up in this casual, open-air eatery. Kid-friendly.

American. L, D. $$$ Botero Bar, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures that surround it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays—when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20.

L, D, N. $ Caffe Ciao Deli, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Healthy vegetarian fare, deli sandwiches and spectacular desserts abound at this take-out/eat-in deli. Espresso drinks, baked goods and house-made gelato, too.

American/Italian. B, L, D. $$ Coconuts Fish Café, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979. Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. Additional location: Kama‘ole Shopping Center, 2463 S. Kīhei Rd. American. L, D. $$

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Urban & hip neighborhood gathering place serving Italian comfort food.

Located in the heart of Kapalua Resort.

; CRAFT COCKTAILS ; CRAFT TAP BEERS ; ITALIAN INSPIRED WINE SELECTIONS DINNER: 5:30PM TO CLOSING LATE NIGHT BAR & MENU: UNTIL 11PM 808-667-CIAO (2426) TAVERNAMAUI.COM 2000 VILLAGE ROAD KAPALUA RESORT

BEST NEW RESTAURANT Gold

BEST BAR Gold

BEST ITALIAN Silver

Award Winning Oceanfront Dining

Molokai Sweet Potato Egg Frittata

Poke Nachos

Pineapple Tramisu

Private Dining

Gluten-free dining available Breakfast: 7am–2pm, Lunch: 9am–2pm, Dinner: 5:30pm–9pm Sea House Bar & Terrace: 8am–10pm, Happy Hour from 2pm–4:30pm Pupus from $6

808.669.1500 | www.seahousemaui.com 5900 Lower Honoapiilani Road, Napili, Hawaii 96761 | www.napilikai.com | Hours and service periods subject to change.

NPK-SH-MNKO-ResortReport-Ad-0917.indd 1

RESTAURANT, BAR & TERRACE Celebrating Over 50 Years at the Beach

Located at the beautiful Napili Kai Beach Resort | Celebrating Over 50 Years of Aloha

9/28/17 4:47 AM

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Cow Pig Bun, 535 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 8758100. If a Brandt premium beef burger slathered in foie gras butter, smoky bourbon-bacon jam and blue cheese makes you want to say, “Moo!” this is the place. Maui-style Comfort Food. L, D, N. $$ Duo, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Duo reinvents the classic “surf-n-turf.” Japanese Kobe tenderloin (the real thing) and dry-aged rib eye are a carnivore’s delight. Choose a strong wine to match your meat’s performance. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$$$ Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711. What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked for fifteen hours over kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans, and cabbage slaws: one sweet-tart, one with blue cheese and apples. American. D. $–$$ Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. For lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, D. $$$$ 5 Palms Restaurant, Mana Kai Resort, 2960 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2607. Ocean waves sweeping the shore enhance your dining experience, as Chef Raul navigates the culinary rim of the Pacific. Lobster eggs Benedict for breakfast, fish tacos for lunch, and seafood and pastas served with style. Kid-friendly.

Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$ Foodland, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9350.

See West Side listing. Poke. $

Da Kitchen, Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782. The Hawaiian plate feeds three normal appetites or one sumo-size eater. Plate-lunch favorites like chicken katsu, tempura fish, and Korean mixed plate won’t leave you wanting. Kid-friendly.

Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $ Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock”: three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, D. RR. $$$ Local Boys Shave Ice, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779. How to chill out in the Islands? Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with plantationera-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut) and macadamia-nut ice cream. Treats. $ Longhi’s Wailea, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883. Enjoy a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemonfeta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. B, L, D. $$$ Luana, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210. This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kalua-pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce, and lomilomi tomato paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$ Manoli’s Pizza Company, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499. Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppini or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna. Italian/Pizza. L, D, N. $$

Four Seasons Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. D, N, RR. $$$$

Matteo’s Osteria, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466. Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade.

Italian. L, D. $$–$$$

Humble Market Kitchin, Wailea Marriott, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655. Chef Roy Yamaguchi hits it out of the ballpark with kampachi crudo, seasonal Goose Point oysters, roasted Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, tender beef short ribs, and even saimin. Perfect. Pacific Regional. B, D. $–$$$

Miso Phat Sushi, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8916476. Sushi served on site, to go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! Japanese. L, D. $$

Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Start with grilled Wagyu hanger steak on green papaya salad, then charred octopus with local goat cheese. Next, Kona abalone on creamy risotto, or a modern interpretation of chicken and waffles. There’s a curated wine list with sommeliers to guide you in pairings, and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$ Kamana Kitchen, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8797888. Eye-catching art and Indian relics are prelude to a menu highlighting exotic spices lovingly blended from family recipes. Lunch buffet. Indian. L. D. $–$$ MauiMagazine.net

Kihei Caffe, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8792230. Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.? Head down to this surfer hangout and load up on banana mac-nut pancakes, loco moco, and a cuppa joe. Café. B, L. $–$$

Fork & Salad, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8793675. Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, gluten- and dairy-free options. International. L, D. $

Humuhumu, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Carpaccio of Japanese hamachi with celery-ginger shaved ice, watermelon salad with Surfing Goat Dairy cheese, crispy mahimahi on forbidden rice . . . love from first bite to last. Pacific Rim. D. $$$$

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Monkeypod Kitchen, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322. Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and banana-cream pie.

Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, N. $$ Morimoto Maui, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Iron Chef’s Masaharu Morimoto offers signature and Maui-centric dishes like rib-eye beef burgers and lobster roll sandwiches. Dinner catches fire with prix fixe omakase.

Handcrafted mixology and a dazzling selection of sakés. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $$$$ Mulligans on the Blue, 100 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 874-1131. Maui’s only Irish-owned pub serves up fish and chips, grilled bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie. Or try the chopped salad with bacon, blue cheese and tomatoes. Guinness poured properly, great music to get you foot-stompin’ happy, and sports-bar action, too. Sláinte! Irish. L, D, N. $–$$$

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dining guide Nalu’s South Shore Grill, Azeka Shopping Center, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650.

Generous portions and locally sourced ingredients served with aloha. ‘Ahi club with smoked bacon, and fresh fish and chips will have you coming back for more. Burgers? Yes! American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$

tartare salad, or the popular crispy fish mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai.

L, D. $–$$

The Pint & Cork, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 727-2038. The best mac-and-cheese with black truffles, deviled eggs Rockefeller, poke bowls and burgers.

International. B (Sat & Sun), L, D, N. $–$$

Ono Gelato Kīhei & The Maui Sandwich Shack Cafe, Azeka Shopping Center, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 495-0287. Gelato heaven—and that’s not all.

Get your deli fix at this hidden gem: pastrami piled high on marbled rye, and salad wraps to satisfy everyone in your party. Deli/Treats. L, D, $–$$

Pizza Madness,1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 2709888. This family-style restaurant serves Cobb salad, hot and cold deli sandwiches with chips and a pickle, some of the best pizza this side of the Pacific, and pasta, too. Italian/Pizza L, D. $–$$

SOUTH SHORE Nick’s Fishmarket, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-7224. Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. D, RR. $$$$

Nutcharee’s Thai Food, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840. The flavors of Thailand never get boring when Nutcharee is cooking! Start with ‘ahi laab

Piko Café and Restaurant, 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 793-2671. Fried rice or buttermilk pancakes for breakfast, bento lunches for the beach, plus dry mein, waffle dogs, burgers, katsu, killer salads, and a signature dessert: haupia-chia-ube pudding. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L. $

Traditional dishes of Mexico by the husband & wife team from Mexico City, Ofir and Zuki.

Masterful flavors from centuries old family recipes–Lobster Enchiladas, Mole, Pozole, & Chile Relleno to name a few.

1279 S Kihei Rd, Ste 122 (Azeka Mauka) | (808)868-4357 | Mon.– Sat. 11a.m.–9p.m. | roastedchileshawaii.com

The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224. Produce from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients you’ll find in any restaurant.

Add Chef Zach Sato’s culinary talents and a gorgeous outdoor setting, and you have a night made in heaven.

European-inspired. D, N. $$-$$$$

Roasted Chiles, Azeka Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357. Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, D. $–$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8948880. See West Side listing.

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004. See West Side listing.

Sarento’s on the Beach, 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555. Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, D. RR. $–$$$ Seascape Restaurant, Maui Ocean Center, 192 S. Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7068. Located next to an award-winning aquarium, Seascape serves up great harbor views with a side of sweet aloha.

Mahimahi sandwiches with fresh cabbage slaw, halfpound burgers and veggie selections. Save room for the Maui Mud Pie: coffee ice cream topped with fudge, on a buttery cookie-crumb crust. American. L (daily), D (Sat/Sun only). $$–$$$ Shearwater Tavern, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 7932324. Gastropub food and drink have never been finer, as partners D.K. Kodama and Chuck Furuya tag team the bar and kitchen to create a venue worthy of your attention. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$

Two exciting farm tours in one unique setting

GOURMET LUNCH

SEED to CUP

Explore our gardens and enjoy a gourmet lunch prepared in your presence with freshly harvested natural produce.

Learn about the growing and roasting of coffee beans and conclude with the “perfect cappuccino” .

TOURS ARE WEEKDAYS 8:30 a.m. and 10:30 a.m.

O’o Farm is the exclusive farm for Pacific’O Restaurant in Lahaina

By Reservation only: 808.667.4341 • www.oofarm.com

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Spago, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Wolfgang Puck’s ‘ōpakapaka sashimi and perfectly seared Kobe beef match the trendsetting wine list note for note. Spectacular sunsets may as well be on the menu. Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors, 91 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 891-2420. See West Side listing. Poke. $ Three’s Bar & Grill, 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133. Three’s serves eggs Benedict six ways, like seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib. For lunch, try Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen; for dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Pacific Rim/ Southwest. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Trilogy Excursions’ Sunset Dinner Sail, Mā‘alaea Harbor, 661-4743. Board a luxury catamaran for Chef Bailey’s four-course dinner. Choose rosemarygarlic-crusted steak on roasted garlic demi-glace, wild-caught mahimahi with lemon caper butter, or

vegetarian pasta. Open bar with cocktails, wine, and Maui Brewery selections. American. D. RR. $$$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei. See West Side listing.

ENTRA

E

More listings:MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide listings: MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

CENTRAL

Aria’s Restaurant & Catering, 2062 W. Vineyard St., Wailuku, 242-2742. Luscious sandwiches, salads, and entrèes like braised chocolate chipotle lamb shank with maizena. American/Pacific Rim. B (Sat–Sun), L, D (Mon–Sat). $–$$

Bistro Casanova, 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 8733650. This downtown bistro branches out from its Upcountry sister, adding paella for two, fresh-cut French fries, and burrata Caprese to the menu.

Mediterranean. L, D. $-$$

Café O’Lei, The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073. Mac-nut-crusted chicken, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites, served beside a links-style golf course overlooking West Maui’s mountain. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Da Kitchen, Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782. See South Shore listing.

Farmacy Health Bar, 12 Market St., Wailuku, 866-4312. Pono (excellence) perfectly describes their pono bowl: kale salad atop quinoa and tofu. Taro veggie burgers and poi açai bowls with fresh fruit are delicious spins on a local staple. Call in your order to expedite service. Vegan, Takeout Only. B, L. $

Foodland, 90 Kane St., Kahului, 877-2808.

See West Side listing. Additional Central Maui locations: 370 Kehalani Village Dr., Wailuku, 244-4460; Sack N Save, 790 Eha St., Wailuku, 244-0356. Poke. $

Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-2877. Eclectic art and brightly painted tables decorate this popular gathering spot. At Happy Cappy Hour, 2 p.m. to closing, cappuccinos are $2. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Maui Fresh Streatery, 344-7929. Chef Kyle Kawakami rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L. $

The Mill House at Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333.

Dine at the coffee shop, restaurant, or weekend chef’s table, and discover some of Maui’s most creative culinary fare, from creamy coconut jook with Kula Farm green beans, to beef ragu gnocchi with thyme curd. Chef Jeff Scheer’s harmony of flavors will woo you back for more. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $–$$$

Poi by the Pound, 430 Kele St., Kahului, 283-9381.

Eat like a local. Hawaiian. B, L, D. $ A Saigon Cafe, 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560.

Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot, the Vietnamese burrito, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D. $

Sam Sato’s, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2447124. This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L. $ Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors, 199 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 873-8000. See West Side listing. Second

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PCOUNTR

Central Maui location: Tamura’s Express, 841 Alua St., Wailuku, 242-0957. Poke. $ Thai Mee Up, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369. Great Thai cuisine from a food truck? Who would have guessed? Thai. L, D. $

Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 893-0026. See West Side listing.

Tin Roof Maui, 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 8680753. Sheldon Simeon of Top Chef fame lets you build your own kau kau bowl with his savory offerings: sweet Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter and kochujang sauce; seared furikake-crusted fish with wasabi mayo and soy, and more. Pacific Rim. L. $

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku.

Whole Foods Market, Maui Mall, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 872-3310. All things fresh and healthy. Order from the deli or construct your own meal from the salad and hot-food bars. Get it to go, or dine here inside or out. B, L, D. $

Your VIP Pass to Maui’s best food, drinks & farms! Take in the scenery while we introduce you to local brewers, winemakers, distillers, coffee roasters, farmers and chefs!

UPCOUNTRY

Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli, 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220. Order a tartufo pizza or carbonara pasta at this Upcountry institution. Kid-friendly. Italian/Pizza. B, L, D. $$

DRINK | EAT | EXPLORE 808.633.1801 • MAUICRAFTTOURS.COM

Nothing in Hawaii is boring. Not even cheese & crackers.

Farmacy Health Bar, Pukalani Terrace, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 868-0443. See Central listing.

Foodland, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 5720674. See West Side listing. Poke. $

Grandma’s Coffee House, 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140. The eggs Benedict and made-fromscratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion. Coffee Shop. B, L, Snacks. $–$$ Hāli‘imaile General Store, 900 Hāli‘imaile Rd., Hāli‘imaile, 572-2666. Chef Bev Gannon dishes up fresh fish, local meats, and regional produce drenched in complex sauces. The towering sashimi appetizer is legendary. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$– $$$$

Introducing Hawaii Fruit Paste It’s an elegant new way to enjoy cheese and crackers with the exotic taste of Hawaiian fruit.

Now available at: Down to Earth Foodland Mana Foods Whole Foods Market & www.mauifruitjewels.com 106

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Kula Bistro, 4566 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 8712960. Big fat sandwiches on focaccia, Upcountry salad greens with house balsamic vinaigrette, and buttery scallop appetizers will have you swooning.

Fresh-fish entrèes and juicy burgers, too. American/ Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$

Lumeria’s Wooden Crate, 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579-8877. The freshest produce and proteins, served in a boutique setting. Try the grilled fresh catch or braised Maui tempeh with basil, kaffir lime and coconut curry sauce. For dessert: papaya with coconut cardamom cream and candied mac nuts. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$–$$$$

O’o Farm, 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour.

Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and fresh-roasted coffee in this bucolic setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted veggies and dessert. American.

B, L. $$$$

ORTH SHORE & HAN

More listings:MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide listings: MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

Polli’s Mexican Restaurant, 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-7808. The sign outside says, “Come in and eat, or we’ll both starve!” Follow that advice to find entrées like kitchen-sink burritos and grilled carne asada plates with refried beans and Spanish rice.

Mexican. L, D. $$ Ulupalakua Ranch Store & Grill, 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561. Across the road from MauiWine, find great deli fare, and hot-off-thegrill lamb burger with tzatziki, grass-fed elk, venison or beef burgers. Plus homestyle chili and rice, or kalua pork plate lunch. American. L, D. $

NORTH SHORE

Café Des Amis, 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 5796323. Savory crêpes are served with wild greens and sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney and raita, Indian yogurt sauce. Dine indoors or out.

Kid-friendly. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $ Flatbread Company, 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989. Big booths, charity nights, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies make this a North Shore institution. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$

GOLD Most Innovative Menu SILVER Restaurant of the Year

Greek Oven, 810 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9752.

Tucked inside an old factory, this quaint café serves scrumptious bougatsa (buttery filo dough filled with semolina custard), fresh-baked breads and pastry, spanakopita, moussaka and freddo cafe. Greek. B, L. $ Jaws Country Store, 4320 Hāna Hwy., Ha‘ikū, 419-6887. Dig into a poached egg on sourdough toast with tomato, caramelized onions and pesto; or try a poke bowl with mac nuts, avo and Maui onions.

Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $ Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488. Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine.

Each detail evokes old-time island hospitality. Hawaiian /Seafood. L, D, RR. $$–$$$$ Pā‘ia Fish Market, 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 5798030. Huge slabs of fresh fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $ Paia Inn Café, 93 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-6004.

Strawberry-papaya parfaits, ‘ahi eggs Benedict, and a delicious (and photo-worthy) cheese platter served with honeycomb to sweeten the deal. Originality shines at the Inn. International. B, BR. $–$$

HĀNA

Barefoot Café, 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732.

Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or mahimahi plate lunch to go. Pacific Rim. B, L. $ Hāna Burger Food Truck at Hāna Ranch, 5670 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 268-2820. Grass-finished beef burgers, fish sandwiches and salads. Call for hours.

American/Food Truck. L. $ The Preserve Kitchen + Bar, Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401. Hāna-sourced produce and fish ground an original menu by Chef Isabelle Toland. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juices and sours. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $–$$$

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi’s Eating & D Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017 107

calendar

Looking for more? Visit MauiMagazine.net/maui-events

Clockwise from top left: Nov. 17, Songbirds of Hawai‘i | Nov. 20–Dec. 24, Hui Holidays | Nov. 11, Alan Clements | Nov. 19, Rita Coolidge | Nov. 4, Hula Ki‘i

NOVEMBER THROUGH NOVEMBER 7

Mālama Wao Akua Hui No’eau Visual Arts Center This multimedia exhibit explores native flora and fauna, with talks by researchers and conservationists. Gallery hours: 9 a.m.–4 p.m. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; HuiNoeau.com

2

Faustwork Mask Theatre McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Founder Rob Faust explores the art of the mask, delighting audiences of all ages with a synthesis of theatre, physical comedy, music, dance and poetry. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

4-5, 12-23

Fine Art Fair Banyan Tree Park Browse paintings, ceramics, jewelry, photography and more under the banyan tree next to the Old Lahaina Courthouse. 9 a.m.–5 p.m. 648 Wharf St., Lahaina; 661-0111; LahainaArts.com

Novemb Doodles & Art from Doodles Viewpoints Gallery Artists display works that seem like “mindless scribbles”—but are not. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; ViewpointsGalleryMaui.com

THROUGH NOVEMBER 29

Carl W. Rozycki: American Icons Viewpoints Gallery Rozycki’s original photographic prints portray iconic subject matter from the 1950s through the 1970s. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; ViewpointsGalleryMaui.com

THROUGH DECEMBER 23

He Makana Schaefer International Gallery, Maui Arts & Cultural Center (MACC) Hawaiian paintings, sculpture and prints from the 1930 to the 1970s, plus ancient kou calabashes, featherwork, Ni‘ihau-shell lei, and a Hawaiian flag quilt from 1898. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES Each week, a different Maui town hosts music, artists’ demos, children’s activities and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m.

It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike.

Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com

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3-4

4

Arbor Day Giveaway Maui Nui Botanical Gardens The Gardens will give away 1,000 native Hawaiian trees, one per person. Enjoy plant-care demos, cultural activities, and talk with experts. 9 a.m.–noon.

150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; Mnbg.org

4

Hula Ki‘i McCoy Studio Theater, MACC In collaboration with the Hula Preservation Society, this is a performance and discussion on the ancient hula form known as hula ki‘i—dance with an image, or as an image. 5 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Nov 2, Dec 1 Nov 10, Dec 8 Nov 17, Dec 15 Nov 24, Dec 22 Dec 29

First Friday Wailuku Second Friday Lahaina Third Friday Makawao Fourth Friday Kīhei Fifth Friday Lāna‘i

9

Celebrate 50 Years Hyatt Regency Maui Ballroom Lahaina Arts Society celebrates five decades of supporting local artist with hula and live music featuring Uluwehi Guerrero, plus a dinner buffet.

6–10 p.m. Tickets available through Lahaina Arts Society (661-0111; LahainaArts.com). 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. See story on page 20.

10

Sun Yat-Sen Festival Wo Hing Museum Celebrate “the father of modern China” with films and displays on Sun Yat-Sen and his connection to Maui, plus Chinese martial arts and cultural activities. 10 a.m.–8:30 p.m. 858 Front St., Lahaina; 661-3262; LahadinaRestoration.org

10-30

How Sweet It Was Village Galleries Jo Rockwell’s 25-year collection of art depicts plantation life on Maui. Village Galleries artists add their own memories with recent works. Reception Nov. 10, 6–9 p.m. 120 Dickenson St., Lahaina; 6614402; VillageGalleriesMaui.com

10-11

Hula o nā Keiki Kā’anapali Beach Hotel Some of the finest young dancers compete in ancient and modern hula, chant, and costume.

The weekend also features demos and displays of Hawaiian arts and crafts. 2525 Kā’anapali Pkwy., Kā’anapali; 661-0011; KBHMaui.com

11

Day of Hope Run 10K & 5K Four Seasons Resort This scenic course takes participants through Wailea and Mākena and past sweeping coastal

MIDDLE: MIEKO PHOTOGRAPHY; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

THROUGH NOVEMBER 29

Made in Maui County Festival A&B Amphitheater, MACC This popular festival highlights some of Maui County’s finest products—from specialty foods and fresh produce to jewelry and collectibles— plus product demonstrations, a fashion show, prize drawings and more. Purchase an Exclusive Shopping Day ticket ($35) for admission on Nov. 3, 1:30–6 p.m. On Nov. 4, the festival runs 8 a.m.–4:30 p.m. with $5 admission. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MadeInMauiCountyFestival.com

views. Proceeds benefit multiple cancer foundations, local hospitals and patients. 7 a.m.–3:30 p.m. 242-7661; PacificCancerFoundation.com

11

Alan Clements: Spiritually Incorrect McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Religion and satire drive this irreverent one-man performance. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

14

Dine Out for Hospice Maui Restaurants across the island donate proceeds from today’s sales to the nonprofit that provides compassionate end-of-life care. For a list of participants, visit HospiceMaui.com

HUI NO‘EAU VISUAL ARTS CENTER

16

Celebrating 100 Years of Kaluanui in 2017!

17

- Hui Holidays 2017! SHOP: Nov. 20 - Dec. 24 / 9am - 4pm - Hui Holidays First Night: Nov. 29 / 5 - 8pm / $30 - NEW Art with Aloha Hawaiian Cultural Demos offered this winter!

Abe Lagrimas Jr. Trio McCoy Studio Theater, MACC The Nā Hōkū Hanohano Award-winner performs on drums, vibraphone and ‘ukulele. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Songbirds of Hawai’i McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Winners of multiple Nā Hōkū Hanohano Awards, Darlene Ahuna, Ku’uipo Kumukahi, and Mihana Souza share their Hawaiian music traditions and fun-filled stories. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

18

Aloha Kalikimaka Benefit Gala Yokouchi Family Estate Pacific Cancer Foundation hosts this evening of live entertainment, holiday festivities, food and wine. 5–10 p.m. 2471 W. Main St., Wailuku; 2427661; PacificCancerFoundation.org

Open Daily 9am - 4pm • FREE Admission

2841 Baldwin Ave. Makawao, HI 96768 • 808-572-6560 •huinoeau.com Exhibition & Art with Aloha programs are made possible with support from the Hawai‘i Tourism Authority

ber 18

Peter Rowan Trio McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Rowan’s career as a singer/songwriter spans five decades. His most recent release, My Aloha, delves into Hawaiian musical roots. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

19

Rita Coolidge Castle Theater, MACC This Grammy Award winner’s hits include “Fever,” “We’re All Alone,” and “One Fine Day.” 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

20-22

Maui Jim Maui Invitational Lahaina Civic Center Top collegiate basketball teams battle it out on Thanksgiving weekend. 1840 Honoapi’ilani Hwy., Lahaina; MauiInvitational.com

20

–DECEMBER 24

Hui Holidays Hui No’eau Visual Arts Center Explore jewelry, ceramics, photography, glass, paintings, fiber, holiday ornaments and more. 9 a.m.–4 p.m. daily. November 29’s Hui Holidays First Night includes shopping, drinks and appetizers, music, wreath sale and more. 5–8 p.m., $30. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; HuiNoeau.com

24

–DECEMBER 10

Chitty Chitty Bang Bang Historic ’Īao Theater An eccentric inventor restores an old race car and discovers that it has magical properties. Fridays & Saturdays, 7:30 p.m. Sundays, 3 p.m. Dec. 2 & 9, 2 p.m.; Dec. 3, 6 p.m. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-6969; MauiOnStage.com Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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NOVEMBER HIGHLIGHT

4

A L O H A E M A L I H I N I (visitor)

‘Aipono Wine Dinner Spago at Four Seasons Resort Maui Explore lesser-known wines of Italy’s EmiliaRomagna, Lazio, Piedmont, Sardinia and Veneto regions, paired with a special menu

by Spago’s Executive Chef Peleg Miron.

Reception 6 p.m. Dinner 6:30 p.m. 3900 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea. Reservations: 879-2999. A portion of sales benefits UH–Maui College’s Food Innovation Center.

DECEMBER HIGHLIGHT

6

‘Aipono Wine Dinner The Leis Family Class Act Restaurant Wines from Dashe Cellars are paired with a special menu by Tom Lelli, chef/instructor of UH–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program, and his students. Reception 5:30 p.m. Dinner 6 p.m. Pā‘ina Building, UH–Maui College, 310 Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului. Reservations: 984-3280. A portion of sales benefits UH–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program.

LET'S

TOGETHER

‘Aipono Wine Dinners are presented by Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants and Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine.

CHECKING OUT EARLY? YOUR FLIGHT LEAVES LATER IN THE DAY? WHAT TO DO? SHOP, DINE & PLAY at QKC! W H Y? We're only 3 miles to Kahului Airport.

We offer complimentary luggage storage.

We have a real-time flight departure monitor.

Enjoy our complimentary wi-fi.

W H AT ' S AT Q KC ?

SHOP! Island-style & national retailers DINE! Local, national & international cuisine PLAY! Movies, children's amusement center, day spa, museum

Q U E ST I O N S? guestservices@qkcmanagement.com 808.877.4325

25

Thompson Square Castle Theater, MACC Country music’s Keifer and Shawna Thompson perform such hits as “Are You Gonna Kiss Me or Not,” and “If I Didn’t Have You.” 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

26

Happy Holly Jolly Days Castle Theater, MACC Maui Choral Arts artistic director Gary Leavitt, pianist Lotus Dancer, and nearly 100 singers kick off the season with a holiday concert. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

DECEMBER

2

Wreath Making with Native Plants Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Learn to make a wreath from native Hawaiian plants for the holidays. $50 ($25 members). 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

2

Eric Church and Friends A&B Amphitheater, MACC An evening of acoustic music with Eric Church and guests Maren Morris, Jon Pardi, Randy Houser, Ed Roland of Collective Soul, and Lily Meola. 6 p.m.

One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

2-23

Let it Snow, Let it Snow, Let it Snow!

Queen Ka’ahumanu Center Queen Ka’ahumanu Center creates an interactive snowfall at 6:30 and 8 p.m. Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Sessions last ten minutes. 275 W. Ka’ahumanu Ave., Kahului; 877-4325; Queen KaahumanuCenter.com

3

QUEENKAAHUMANUCENTER.COM CONNECT WITH US @QKCMAUI #SHOPQKC #DINEQKC #PLAYQKC FREE WIFI

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Holiday Pops Castle Theater, MACC Music director James Durham and the Maui Pops Orchestra ring in the season with a concert featuring Nā Hōkū Hanohano Award-winners Nā Leo Pilimehana. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

3

Holiday Tree Lighting Grand Wailea Resort The hotel flips the switch to more than eight miles

Dead’s material while remaining loyal to the original music. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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of twinkling lights in this benefit for Boys & Girls Clubs of Maui. Holiday entertainment, cookies and cocoa, and a gingerbread village created by children and the hotel’s pastry department. Complimentary valet parking. 5–6 p.m. 3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea; 875-1234; GrandWailea.com

6

Miranda Sings Live . . . You’re Welcome Tour Castle Theater, MACC YouTube star Colleen Ballinger (a.k.a. Miranda Sings) has more than 12 million subscribers. She’s known for questionable advice about singing and life, deluded self-confidence, and rants about her family and personal problems. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

8

Green Room: Billy Collins McCoy Studio Theater, MACC The New York Times called poet laureate emeritus Billy Collins “the most popular poet in America.”

He’ll speak at the next installment of the Green Room literary series. 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

29

Solo Sessions: Steve Earle McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Steve Earle has been a troubadour, rockabilly raver, bluesman, honky-tonk rounder, snarling rocker, and even a bluegrass practitioner. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

30

Howie Mandel Castle Theater, MACC Comedian and actor Mandel is known these days as host of the NBC game show Deal or No Deal, and as a judge for seven seasons on the hit series America’s Got Talent. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

JANUARY

3-7

Sentry Tournament of Champions The Plantation Course The season opener for the 2018 PGA Tour features a winners-only format of 2017 champions. 200 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua; PGATour.com Email your event to Calendar@Maui Magazine.net, or submit it online at MauiMagazine.net/maui-events. Listings for MNKO’s January-February 2018 print edition must be received by November 13. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.

9

Holiday Tree Lighting MauiWine at ‘Ulupalakua Ranch This event includes entertainment, holiday crafts and activities, outdoor cinema, and festive food and drink. Free admission. 5:30 p.m. 14815 Pi’ilani Hwy., Kula; 878-6058; MauiWine.com

9

–JANUARY 15

George & Friends Viewpoints Gallery Fellow artists join George Allen for this special show.

Reception Jan. 9, 5–8 p.m. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; ViewpointsGalleryMaui.com

10

Nahko Castle Theater, MACC Nahko performs hip-hop and folk rock with a world message. 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org

14

Tom Segura: No Teeth No Entry Tour Castle Theater, MACC Known for his dry and biting humor, Segura has produced Netflix specials “Mostly Stories” and “Completely Normal.” 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

15

Lufi Luteru Talk Story & Demonstration Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center Native Hawaiian weaver and jewelry designer Lufi shares her visual philosophies, wearable art, and ancestral stories; and demonstrates lauhala weaving at this free event. 10 a.m.–noon. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; HuiNoeau.com

20

Hawaiian Basketry Demo Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center Kumula’au and Haunani Sing demonstrate the art of Hawaiian basketry. 5–6 p.m. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; HuiNoeau.com

24

Santa Arrives by Canoe Grand Wailea Resort Santa makes his grand entrance on Wailea Beach, then hands out candy canes and takes photos with children on the Chapel Lawn. Complimentary valet parking. 9–11 a.m. 3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea; 875-1234; GrandWailea.com

28

Phil Lesh & Friends Castle Theater, MACC Former Grateful Dead bassist Phil Lesh leads this American rock band that gives new life to the Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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who’s who

importers & distributors of the world’s finest wines

John Morre, Jane Ferrante | Shannon & Brian Ward | Dee & Herb Coyle

THIS ROW: BECKY SPEERE

‘AIPONO WINE DINNER | Longhi’s Wailea | August 11, 2017 Benefit for UH-Maui’s Culinary Arts Program

At Chambers & Chambers we are fortunate and humbled to serve Hawaii’s thriving wine and restaurant scenes. With a focus on quality and authenticity, we look for not only exceptional wine in the bottle, but also exceptional people behind the wines.

Mike & Tina Wildberger | Paul Gammie, Karen Sommer & Dan Schulte

global portfolio

MIEKO PHOTOGRAPHY

Michael & Judith Richards | Denise Fleetham, Josée Hansen | Joe & Karen Girafe

KE ALAHELE | Fairmont Kea Lani | August 26, 2017 | Benefit for STEM education programs

knowledgable team exceptional service

Bonnie West, Steven Baker | Gary Bulson, Scott Meidell, Linda Matossian, Leilani Pulmano

@ChambersWinesHawaii @chamberswineshi @ChambersWinesHI

Serving Hawaii’s Restaurant & Fine Wine Community Since 1979 www.chamberswines.com

Ryan Churchill, Frances Cameron Ort, Jeanne Skog, Mayor Alan Arakawa | Gail DiMeo, Charlene Schulenburg, Gary Passon

Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at Facebook.com/MauiMagazine.

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COURTESY OF MAUI ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT BOARD

L to R: Lisa Paulson, Kirsten Paulson, Sharon Suzuki, Senator Roz Baker | Meicha D’Auria, Jennifer Suzuki

L to R: Katie Peterson, Erin Wooldridge | Lynn Michiko & Keith Powers | Michael Schwarz, Scott Sniffen

BRYAN BERKOWITZ

Lynette McCrary, Kosima Grundy, Abigail Grundy | Sarah Suwanjindar, Joyce Jeffers

g n i comsoon

21 LA’A STREET :: WAILUKU, HAWAII

KALUANUI CENTENNIAL FESTIVAL & FAMILY DAY | Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center | July 22, 2017

Kristina Lyons Lambert, Michelle Valentin | Jerry Labb, Colleen O’Shea Brady, Cynthia Conrad | Anthony Small, Jasmine Luna

WHERE CHAMPIONS COME TO PLAY JAN 3-7, 2018 | THE PLANTATION COURSE Get tickets to access the grounds during tournament week or enjoy an upgraded experience walking inside the ropes with a PGA TOUR player at the 2018 Sentry Tournament of Champions.

CALL (808) 665-9160 OR VISIT SENTRYTOURNAMENTOFCHAMPIONS.COM

JUSTIN THOMAS

2017 CHAMPION

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Nov–Dec 2017

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a perfect day on maui

Southern Hospitality

Follow your local guide and make the most of Maui. Story by Lehia Apana

Seascape Restaurant

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8–10 a.m. Bird’s the word at the Keālia Coastal Boardwalk, where you can spot the area’s feathered residents, including two of Hawai‘i’s endangered waterbirds: the Hawaiian coot and Hawaiian stilt. Spanning an easy .4 miles, the boardwalk is dotted with interpretive signs that share the area’s history and explain which birds to look for.

It’s also adjacent to one of the island’s best seaside walks: Sugar Beach, which spans from Mā‘alaea to Kīhei’s north end.

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10:15 a.m.–1:30 p.m. Explore the ocean depths from the comfort of dry land at Maui Ocean Center. This harbor-front aquarium celebrates our underwater neighbors and is home to one of the largest collections of live Pacific corals in the world. Marine experts share their mana‘o (knowledge) during daily interactive talks, including the popular Ocean Exhibit dive, when a mic-equipped diver answers questions from inside the 750,000-gallon tank. Steps away is the “Insta-worthy” fifty-four-foot tunnel through waters that teem with charismatic sharks, stingrays and tropical fish.

The in-house Seascape Restaurant lives up to its name with expansive harbor views and an island-inspired menu. It’s a savory repast, and aquarium admission isn’t required to dine here. Bonus: The Surfrider Foundation has added the eatery to its exclusive list of Ocean Friendly Restaurants

that reduce plastic waste, and implement practices such as using compostable or recyclable takeout containers. Aquarium hours are 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily (last admission 4:30 p.m.). Seascape is open 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily; 5 to 9 p.m. Friday through Sunday. 192 Mā‘alaea Road, Mā‘alaea; 808270-7000; MauiOceanCenter.com

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2 p.m. Time for an intermission? Relax at the beach—my pick is Oneloa at Mākena State Park, a.k.a. “Big Beach”—or head home to rest before the evening activities.

6–7:30 p.m. It’s easy to feel like a kid again. Simply lace up a pair of skates or rollerblades and make the rounds at Maui’s only public skating rink, located at Kalama Park. What the rink lacks in size and frills, it more than makes up for with its oceanfront setting and sunset views. Maui Inline Hockey Association volunteers run the rental station and concessions; monies raised help with rink upkeep. Public skating is 6 to 8 p.m. Mondays and Wednesdays; 6 to 9 p.m. Fridays. Rental skates are $5/pair.

1900 S. Kīhei Road, Kīhei; MauiHockey.com

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8 p.m. Keep it sporty and head to The Pint and Cork at The Shops at Wailea, where you can catch the latest televised game, cold brew in hand. Sports bars aren’t known for dishing up gourmet fare, but this spot breaks the mold, serving up favorites like warm mushroom salad with truffle oil, daily fish specials, and a decadent mac and cheese. Feel free to linger—food is served until midnight and the bar stays open until 2 a.m. 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea; 808-727-2038; ThePintAndCork.com Follow Lehia Apana on her “Perfect Day” at MauiMagazine.net/southern-hospitality.

LEHIA APANA

South Maui’s coastal culture means that, whatever your plans, sun and sand are always within reach. Pristine beaches offer a front-row seat to marine life and Technicolor skies, while a vibrant nightlife keeps the fun rolling well past sunset.

Find Your Aloha.

Where the spirit of exploration meets the sweetness of homecoming, you’ll find Montage Residences Kapalua Bay. A modern take on resort living, free of pretense, alive with fun. Signature services and amenities are infused with the essence of a beloved place. Make the Montage experience your own, and reclaim the luxury of delight.

A limited offering of spacious oceanfront three- and four-bedroom Residences is available. Starting from the mid $3 millions. Schedule your private showing.

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MontageResidencesKapaluaBay.com

This does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of an offer to buy a unit. Nor is it an offering or solicitation of sale in any jurisdiction where the development is not registered in accordance with applicable law or where such offering or solicitation would otherwise be prohibited by law. Obtain all disclosure documents required by applicable laws and read them before signing anything. No governmental agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of the development. Further, ownership of a unit in the development will be subject to the terms of various documents relating to the development. The resort project described herein (the “Project”) and the residential units located within the Project (the “Residential Units”) are not owned, developed, or sold by Montage Hotels & Resorts, LLC, its affiliates or their respective licensors (collectively, “Montage”) and Montage does not make any representations, warranties or guaranties whatsoever with respect to the Residential Units, the Project or any part thereof. Island Acquisitions Kapalua LLC uses the Montage brand name and certain Montage trademarks (collectively, the “Operator Trademarks”) in connection with the sales and marketing of the Residential Units in the Project under a limited, non-exclusive, non-transferable and non-sublicensable license from Montage. The foregoing license may be terminated or may expire without renewal, in which case neither the Residential Units nor any part of the Project will be identified as a Montage branded project or have any rights to use the Operator Trademarks.

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