Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine Jan-Feb 2018

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THE LUXURY ISSUE

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Features 30 Adventure

THE WHIRLYBIRD AND THE BUGGY When it comes to exploring East Maui, the sky’s the limit. Story by John Giordani

40 » Hawaiian Soul

DEFINING IDENTITY What’s in a name? For Hawaiians, the answer could be: “Everything.” Story by Lehia Apana

45 » Health & Wellness

66 » Island Business

57 » Artists on Location

72 » At Home

THE LAP OF LUXURY We oohed. We sighed. We melted. We’re sharing the results of our research.Text

by Kathy Collins, Becky Speere, Alma Tassi & Diane Haynes Woodburn THE ART OF SPRING Who better to contemplate five notable arts events than a Maui artist and poet?

Text by Lali Groth

FLOWER POWER Maui’s agricultural landscape is changing. In this first of a series, we look at a business that’s betting its future on energy crops. Story by Teya Penniman A VIEW FROM THE TOP An untouched landscape inspires a modern, minimalistic home.

Story by Sarah Ruppenthal

About Our Cover

BRYAN BERKOWITZ

Power plant: Pacific Biodiesel president Bob King sits behind the wheel of a big red combine, harvesting sunflowers—the company’s first fuel crop.

Sunflowers on the slopes of Mauna Kahalawai rival the vivid colors of a West Maui sunset—a nod to a brighter future for the island’s sustainability. Brothers Dan and John Cesere braved swarms of bees to take the shot, using a stack of graduated neutraldensity filters to achieve that “We’re not in Kansas anymore” effect.

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Departments

16 Contributors

It takes a lot of talents to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

18 Publisher’s Note

By Diane Haynes Woodburn

20 Talk Story

Fresh off the coconut wireless ~ by Lehia Apana, Kyle Ellison & Shannon Wianecki

28 Great Finds

Compiled by Marluy Andrade

116 Calendar

What’s happening where, when, and with whom

120 Who’s Who

Seen making the scene on Maui

122 A Perfect Day on Maui

A SIGHT FOR SOAR EYES Get a bird’s-eye view of Maui! Video at MauiMagazine.net/helicopter-tour.

SHELL LACKING Duo restaurant shares a tasty recipe at MauiMagazine. net/tofu-scramble.

EPIC DERMIS Ry-n Shimabuku shares his magic at MauiMagazine.net/ makeup-artist.

THE MORE THINGS CHANGE Melissa Chimera transforms lobelia into mandala art at MauiMagazine.net/haha WESTWARD, HO! Follow Lehia Apana’s video itinerary for a day of West Maui fun. MauiMagazine.net/ explore-Kaanapali.

THIS JUST IN! Visit our online calendar for the latest on what’s happening around Maui County.

MauiMagazine.net/maui-events RED CARPET TREATMENT Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events?

Find your photos in our online Facebook albums and share with friends.

Facebook.com/MauiMagazine Pinterest.com/MauiMagazine Instagram.com/MauiMag Twitter.com/MauiMag

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« DINING »

Stories by Becky Speere

90 Dining Feature

FOUR SEASONS, 4 MEALS, 24 HOURS Our dining editor lands in Wailea and discovers the right stuff.

96 Dining Highlights

BREAKFAST ON THE SUNSET SIDE A second helping of venues that will keep your sunny side up

100 Becky’s Backyard

SHARP IDEA It’s true that kiawe trees have thorns. More to the point, the beans are terrific.

104 Dining Guide

A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island Four Seasons launches new Market Night dining experiences. Find them, and more, on page 90.

COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS MAUI RESORT & SPA

THIS ISSUE ONLINE

Web-exclusive content at MauiMagazine.net (available beginning in January)

FIRST RESORT Follow your local guide and make the most of Maui.

Story by Lehia Apana

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SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS

Enjoy the hospitality of Maui’s plantation era at the historic Pioneer Inn on Lahaina Harbor.

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There’s a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.

What’s the most valuable gift you’ve ever given or received?

PUBLISHER Diane Haynes Woodburn

My mom’s present to me for graduating college was a trip to Maui. After my visit, I knew I wanted to move to Maui someday. Three years later, I did! No regrets! Thanks, Mom.—Adelle Lennox

CREATIVE DIRECTOR John Giordani SENIOR EDITOR Rita Goldman MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana DINING EDITOR Becky Speere

My hānai [adoptive] aunt Elsie gave me her fine china and silverware. Every time I use them (which is every day), I think about her love, generosity and her joie de vivre.—Becky Speere

WEBSITE MANAGER Adelle Lennox My father taught me to read when I was two years old. By the time I started kindergarten, reading the daily newspaper was part of our family morning routine. Daddy always said that reading and music appreciation were the best gifts a parent could give a child. Once given, they can never be taken away.

—Kathy Collins

The most valuable gift I ever received was the year I was able to spend with my dog Lito, who I got from the Maui Humane Society. Lito passed away on October 27, 2017, but I’ll always remember him happily running around his favorite West Maui vistas.—Ben Ferrari

ASSISTANT DESIGNER Shelby Lynch GREAT FINDS EDITOR Marluy Andrade EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Mieko Horikoshi CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR Matt Foster CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Kathy Collins, Kyle Ellison, John Giordani, Lali Groth, Teya Penniman, Sarah Ruppenthal, Alma Tassi, Shannon Wianecki CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

One holiday season my exhusband and I stayed at my mother-in-law’s kosher home.

I love Hanukkah but I missed Christmas. My ex-motherin-law must have sensed my feelings and gave me a Christmas tree with twinkle lights and some ornaments.

It was totally unexpected and an act of love.—Mieko Horikoshi

The most valuable gift I’ve received is my Hawaiian name, given to me by cherished kumu hula and Hawaiian cultural expert Hōkūlani Holt. Read about Hawaiian naming traditions, and how I received my name, on page 40.—Lehia Apana

Liam Ball, Bryan Berkowitz, Randy Jay Braun, Cesere Brothers, Melissa Chimera, Ron Dahlquist, Ben Ferrari, Lali Groth, Mieko Horikoshi, Marie Jalayahay, Jason Moore, Jose Morales, Bradley W. Paulson, Taja Košir Popovič, Ryan Siphers, Becky Speere, Forest & Kim Starr I once flew my wife’s best friend out to Maui for a visit as a gift. They both had so much fun and it brought them a lot of happiness, especially my wife!—John Cesere

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A hui hou, Diane Haynes Woodburn, Publisher

“The greatest gift of life is friendship . . . and I have received it.”—Hubert Humphrey To my friend Deb Kaiwi. I treasure the memories.

MIEKO HORIKOSHI

Health & Wellness

As I write this, 2017 is coming to a close. According to the Chinese calendar (and the internet) 2018 is the Year of the Brown Dog: a male year, dominated by the element earth or mountains. Loosely translated, that means something big is blocking our view. “We need to use our wisdom to find the better way,” the website ChineseFortuneCalendar.com advises. It also assures me 2018 is a good year to increase wealth. Go figure. I’m guessing there’s gold in them thar hills! So perhaps beginning the year with our annual Luxury Issue marks an auspicious start.

Today, however, I’m feeling earth more than treasure—and luxury is the company of a good friend. It’s the day after Thanksgiving. Patti and I sit at my dining-room table, looking over a panorama of plates and plastic containers laden with yesterday’s holiday treats.

It’s a sugar and butter overload, yet neither of us is interested. We each pour the other a glass of wine instead.

“I just can’t bring myself to decorate my tree,” Patti confesses, blinking back tears. I nod in understanding. Each of us suffered the loss of someone dear this year. For Patti it was her mom, for me it was my close friend Deb. Our mutual sorrow is still raw. I offer Patti a piece of cake from a favorite serving dish. “This is the plate you brought back from Italy,” Patti notices. “Yes,” I reply. “That was from the trip Jamie and I took with Chris and Deb.” Suddenly, I find myself transported to Florence, roaming the ancient cobblestone paths and alleyways, walking arm in arm (as European women do) with Deb. The aromas of fresh-baked pastries, strong espresso, and hot pizza linger in the summer air. A storefront with hand-painted ceramics and an elf-sized door catches my eye. Inside, a Geppetto of a man sits on a wooden stool, spectacles perched on his prominent nose. “Buona sera, signoras,” he smiles, his paintbrush poised over a ceramic plate. But which to buy? With Deb’s help, I choose wisely.

Later, after a richly satisfying dinner, the four of us enjoy a languid, if slightly tipsy, meander toward our hotel. From nowhere, it seems, comes the sound of music—mellifluous voices floating above us in hauntingly beautiful song. We follow the sound to a high, lighted window behind which an a cappella choir is practicing. Although we can’t see them, their voices resonate, echoing off the centuries-old rock walls that serve as our private cathedral. Other passersby are mesmerized as well, and stop to join us. I hear whispers in Italian, French, German, Arabic. We smile at one another, then all eyes lift to the window in a serendipitous moment of harmony and joy.

“I know Deb always did your tree for you.” Patti’s voice brings me back to our table in Kula. “I’ll do yours this year . . . if you’ll help me do mine.” We toast to the pact.

In this, our Luxury Issue, we offer some admittedly extravagant ways to indulge yourself and those close to you, from living like royalty for a splendid night of escape, to experiencing the spa day of your (well, actually my) dreams. You can even whirl above paradise in a private helicopter tour. Treasures abound in these pages—but, as I recall that evening in Florence, I remember that the best treasures are those you least expect—and hold dear for a lifetime.

Wishing you a new year in which the brown dog lies low, the path is clear, and riches abound in the most surprising places.

talk story

Grown-up Getaway 931

That’s how many days had passed since my wife and I had a night to ourselves, away from our two young children.

Were we nervous? Scared? Hesitant? Doubtful? Afraid we might miss them too much?

Ha! We couldn’t drive fast enough—cue the champagne!

That’s exactly what was waiting for us at the front desk when we checked in at Hotel Wailea: two glasses of bubbly the staff offered us before we’d even received our keys.

Freed from the shackles of strollers, diaper bags, car seats, bottles, and cribs, I smiled when the bell staff asked for our luggage.

“Thanks, but this one bag is it.”

Set on a sloping Wailea hillside away from the oceanfront crowds, this is Maui’s sole adults-only hotel. It’s a fifteen-acre, romantic enclave of boutique luxury—the only Hawai‘i hotel invited into Relais & Châteaux, a prestigious association of landmark hotels around the globe. (Intimidated? Who, us?)

The seventy-two one-bedroom suites have the feel of exclusive, ocean-view homes, with

lānais overlooking Molokini Crater and the sunset. It’s the feeling of lounging in slippers and robes while sipping a morning coffee, and stretching out on a comfortable couch that’s meant for a really good book. It’s strolling together, hand in hand, past waterfalls, gazebos, and fruit trees, and cuddling by a poolside firepit while scanning for shooting stars.

And then there’s The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea—one of Maui’s most romantic finedining experiences.

In our two years as parents, “dining out” has meant taking turns eating and holding a baby, and having to order drinks, entrées and the check all in one fell swoop. On this night, however, Heather and I did our best to impersonate a sophisticated couple without a care in the world, ordering pūpūs, glasses of wine, a main course, and even dessert!

Over starters of kampachi crudo and smoked Kamuela beets, we actually had time to talk to each other—and listened as our server described the Coravin wine system.

Instead of popping the cork (and committing the customer to purchase the whole bottle), Coravin uses a needle to puncture the cork, allowing diners to enjoy rare vintages, yet still order by the glass.

“Mmmm,” Heather murmured. “It’s been way too long since I’ve had a good glass of wine.” Sniffing, swishing, and taking a sip, I agreed we’d definitely stepped it up from the table wine we’d become used to.

After my beef tenderloin and Heather’s

Poolside drinks are a guilt-free luxury at adults-only Hotel Wailea.

Pictured here: a Kula lavender mojito with rum, lime, mint and house-made Kula Farm lavender simple syrup; and a Lava Flow with rum, pineapple, coconut, banana and strawberry purée.

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ELANA LOO

Fresh off the coconut wireless

Story by Kyle Ellison

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‘ōpakapaka—but before the molten lava cake—the waiter appeared with an intermezzo of mango sorbet and Prosecco, a crisp, sweet, palate-cleansing surprise.

The biggest luxury, however, was waking up the following morning and not having to do anything. Sure, I could have worked out at the gym or tried the aerial yoga. But if Heather and I chose just to relax, Life as We Know It probably wouldn’t end. I didn’t have to make anyone’s breakfast; just opened the door to collect the breakfasts we’d ordered the night before. Flipping through a magazine while nibbling eggs Benedict, I decided this was the kind of morning I could get used to. The only appointment on our schedule was a 10 a.m. couple’s massage— delivered, like our breakfast, in-room, thanks

to a partnership between Hotel Wailea and Ho‘omana Spa Maui.

It was our first couple’s massage since— you guessed it—having children, and once the therapists set up their massage tables and transformed the room with flowers, they walked us through the healing elements we were about to experience. We’d chosen the Couples Paradise Retreat, which featured a body scrub with exfoliating salts, lotions and mists made from lavender and lemongrass grown at Ho‘omana’s Pi‘iholo location in Upcountry Maui.

As Heather and I lay face down on the treatment tables, our session began with an oli, or chant, followed by the song “E O Mai,”

by Keali‘i Reichel, playing in the background.

“Did you plan that?” asked Heather, her

TOP: STEPHANIE RUSSO; BOTTOM: JORDAN ROSEN

Clockwise from top: Champagne elevates an already elegant meal at The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea. Pastry Chef Marko Krancher’s hand-made truffles, paired with champagne, are a welcome gift fit for a honeymoon couple—no matter how long ago the wedding was. Staff at the bright and modern poolside bar are poised to dispense tropical libations. Amenities include spacious, comfortably appointed cabanas . . . and a pool with no youngsters in sight.

COURTESY OF HOTEL WAILEA; BAR: LINNY MORRIS

“Explore, Escape, Relax”

voice conveying a sense of calm I hadn’t heard in ages.

“I swear I didn’t,” I replied, then explained to the therapist, “She walked down the aisle to that song when we got married.”

For the next fifty minutes, I let the massage therapist release years of tension and stress from my muscles, and I did my best to quiet my harried mind. The massage finished with a warm bath, infused with ‘awa and coconut milk, drawn in the suite’s plunge-sized tub.

Immersed in the tub, relaxed, refreshed, and reset, I realized what made this stay so special: instead of taking care of our children, we were the ones being cared for.

It’s an occasional luxury that everyone deserves—even if just for a night.

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Watch Ry-n’s step-by-step technique for a smoky, shimmery eye at MauiMagazine.net/ makeup-artist.

TALK STORY day in the life

Facial Expression Story by Lehia Apana Photo by Marie Jalayahay NAME: Ry-n Shimabuku | TITLE: See below.

HAPPY MEDIUMS: One day he’s applying foundation on a model at a Nike photo shoot; the next, he’s affixing sideburns to an Elvis impersonator; and the third, he’s at Krispy Kreme, ordering twodozen donuts for a headpiece he’s creating.

Ask Ry-n for his official title, and be prepared for a long answer.

He settles on defining himself as an artist, explaining that creativity is at the core of his work—whether he’s doing makeup, hairstyling, or constructing a theatrical accessory. “I was always interested in the beauty industry. Makeup is the medium that I fell in love with . . . from there it branched out. Also, I’m a control freak, so I like to have my hands on every part of the project.”

In many ways, Ry-n is also a storyteller. “My creative process begins with a theme and I’m inspired by the story we’re trying to share. With a photo shoot, the model is my blank canvas and I can do whatever I want within the parameters of that theme.”

ABOUT FACE: The Maui native recalls some of the earliest career advice he received.

“People were saying, ‘You have to move to L.A. or New York; there’s nothing for you here,’” Ry-n shrugs.

But after a short stint in Los Angeles, he packed up his bags and returned to Maui, more determined than ever to prove he could have a successful career here. Today Ry-n works with everyone from brides to celebrity clients, all from the comfort of his hometown.

“I’d rather be based on Maui and be around family and my support group. I can always fly wherever I’m needed for work,” he says.

INTO THE WILD: Ry-n admits that being a creative in the middle of the Pacific Ocean has its limitations.

“If I want a prop for a photo shoot, I can’t go to a costume store and rent it—I need to make it from scratch.”

Like the time he went diving for urchin spines to use in an ocean-themed crown. Another project had him supergluing barbecue skewers to create a Renaissance-inspired headpiece.

“It’s a challenge,” he says, “but I like doing it that way because it makes me think and keeps me on my toes.”

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2018

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TALK STORY in season

Hāhā: The Velvet Touch

Some of Maui’s strangest flowers bloom in winter—though witnessing these living curiosities requires some effort and a sharp eye. Cyanea macrostegia grows deep in the island’s most pristine rainforests. It resembles a miniature, floppyleafed palm. Its leaves are rugose (wrinkly) and fuzzy, says research biologist Art Medeiros. “When you touch them, they feel like a peach.” Even the flowers have some fuzz. At the onset of winter, dark purple buds emerge from the plant’s main stalk, crowding the base of its leaves. Hairy and slender, these tarantula-like buds unfurl to reveal pale pink starbursts.

Hawaiians call this plant hāhā, a name that refers to the entire Cyanea genus. Cyaneas are all a little odd, ranging from small shrubs whose leaves are pockmarked with spines (a rarity

in Hawaiian species) to spindly thirty-foot-tall trees that dangle chandelier-like inflorescences.

Sadly, many hāhā are extinct. They are the canaries, the first plants to disappear when feral pigs or other exotic species invade the native forest.

This particular hāhā is endemic to Maui, it exists nowhere else on Earth. It provides critical habitat for other rare species. Hawaiian picture-wing flies lay eggs on the plant’s leaves, and adults can often be seen congregating at the flowers. C. macrostegia once populated deep, wooded ravines in Waihe‘e and densely forested hills in Olinda. Today the plant can be spotted growing in the Waikamoi cloud forest, and beside the boardwalk in Pu‘u Kukui Watershed Preserve. To visit, join a guided hike or volunteer with EastMauiWatershed.org. or PuuKukui.org.

You can also enjoy hāhā flowers in a painting by artist Melissa Chimera, who photographed this specimen as part of her research. The piece features a mandala of rare Hawaiian butterflies and flowers. Chimera’s pale blue butterfly wings find their perfect complement in the hāhā blossoms’ dark velvet. View it at MauiMagazine.net/haha.

Story by Shannon Wianecki Photo by Melissa Chimera

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GREAT FINDS

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SIZZLING Rick Strini’s blown-glass wall art features eight rondels splashed with gold luster and ruby accents that imbue a rich warmth to this stunning piece inspired by water droplets. $5,800. Maui Crafts Guild, 120 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-9797, MauiCraftsGuild. com; or StriniArtGlassCustomLighting.com

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LACY LADY It will be like Breakfast at Tiffany’s when she shows up for morning coffee in this beautiful Eberjey Colette kimono of lace and silk.

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STACKED WITH MAGIC This gold-fill crystal ring sits royally atop six 14k gold-fill, handhammered stacking rings. Stones are hand-cut in Pakistan and available in lapis, rutilated quartz (shown), tanzan aura quartz, hessonite garnet and more. Crystal ring, $75; 14k gold-fill stacking rings, $25 each. Shabd K Maui ShabdKMaui.com

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When it comes to exploring Maui, the sky’s the limit.

A Sunshine Helicopter soars above 400-foot Waihi‘umalu Falls in Kīpahulu, East Maui.

Opposite: Getting the feel of a whimsical Barefoot Buggy on a side street in Hāna.

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ADVENTURE

STORY BY JOHN GIORDANI PHOTOGRAPHY BY RYAN SIPHERS “How much do you weigh?” asked the Sunshine Helicopters agent. A month’s worth of questionable nourishment played out in my mind. Feeling certain that my waistband would be looser by the time of my flight, I lied. The truth is I didn’t know my exact weight; my scale would look like a dusty relic—if I knew where to find it.

Nine days later, reality weighed in. Photographer

Ryan Siphers and I had signed up for an air-and-land combo—we would soar above Haleakalā and Hāna, then take a road trip back to Kahului Heliport. As I hopped on the scale at check-in, I was fully prepared to place the blame for the extra pounds on the backpacks, cameras, cooler and other paraphernalia we’d brought. I needn’t have worried. Turns out that, like other small aircraft, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2018

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Above, from left: Our writer weighs in at Sunshine Helicopter’s reception office, while Luanne discreetly logs the results. For safety, passengers are escorted to the aircraft one by one. Pilot Pete Cella signals, Hawaiian style, that we’re ready to go. Below: A dry summer has left Kahikinui Forest Reserve looking crispy. The lava peninsula in the photo’s upper left corner is part of Nu‘u Refuge, a wilderness area on Maui’s southern coast.

helicopters just need to balance the weight to ensure a smooth flight—the source of said weight being the passengers, pilot, baggage and fuel.

Sunshine Helicopters has been skillfully managing this balancing act for thirty-two years—ever since Ross Scott and his wife, Anna, started it with two helicopters they leased and eventually bought from an aviation company Ross had worked for in Alaska.

Sunshine has since grown into a statewide company offering helicopter tours of Maui, Moloka‘i, Hawai‘i Island, and Kaua‘i. They’ve even spanned the Pacific, with an outpost in Las Vegas offering tours of the Grand Canyon.

It’s a sublimely clear morning and I’m feeling excited (okay, and maybe just a little nervous) about taking my first helicopter ride.

To increase the adrenaline factor, we’d drive back on our own, in a vehicle from Barefoot Buggy.

As our tour group waited for the last passenger to arrive, I chatted with our pilot, Pete Cella. I asked him why helicopter tours are so pricey. His answer: fuel and maintenance. Those whirlybirds consume up to fifty-two gallons of expensive jet fuel per hour to stay aloft, and safety regulations require frequent, meticulous maintenance and regular replacement of costly parts. As I was about to be suspended 1,500 feet in the air, I appreciated the obses-

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sive attention to detail. I was also reassured to find that Pete had logged over 6,000 hours of flight time.

Once Earl arrived (he’d been lost in the maze of current construction at Kahului Airport), we were given a safety and procedural overview by Sunshine’s friendly guest relations agent, LuAnne, who informed our traveling companions that they were being treated to a touchdown at the Hāna Airport, where Ryan and I would deplane to pick up our dune buggy.

Once we were onboard, seat belts secured and headsets on, Pete got the ok from ground control and we were airborne. It was a surreal sensation, gliding just feet off the tarmac, then making our way up and out of the heliport. I imagined myself a character in a sci-fi movie, hovering in my own spacecraft. In fact, I was giddy, with a grin from ear to ear, practically the entire flight.

In the comfort of the cockpit, it felt like we were flying above the central valley at a snail’s pace, until Pete pointed out that we were traveling roughly 100 miles per hour. By car, it would have taken two hours to go from the heliport in Kahului to Haleakalā’s summit. We got there in twelve minutes. Did I mention how clear the day was? How unusually calm the winds? I felt like I’d won the lottery on weather conditions and wide-open visibility.

We made our way southeast, curving around the Kaupō side

ADVENTURE

From top: Beyond the patchwork of fallow cane fields that blankets the central valley, the usually cloud-covered Mauna Kahalawai (better known as “West Maui Mountains”) reveals its silhouette on this clear morning. Cinder cones from later eruptions pockmark Haleakalā’s summit. The gap in the crater’s northern wall yields a view clear through to Maui’s north shore. Lush Kīpahulu is home to ‘Ohe‘o Gulch and the south coastal flank of Haleakalā National Park.

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Clockwise from top left: From our Sunshine Helicopter, we’re privy to this view of Kapi‘a Stream, carving its way down the mountain in the Hāna Forest Reserve . . . after an earlier glimpse of a seasonal waterfall in Kaupō. Heading toward Hāna Heliport treats us to a sweeping vista of Maui’s north shore, the summit gap called Ko‘olau, and the lava-rock coastal shelf. (The bare black circle in the center of that photo is Pi‘ilanihale, the largest heiau—Hawaiian temple—in the state, located on the grounds of Kahanu Botanical Gardens, 650 Ulaino Road.) Wai‘ānapanapa State Park is well worth a stop; you could spend a day exploring its black-sand beach, cave, blowhole and hiking trails.

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of Haleakalā, Maui’s 10,023-foot dormant volcano, where I experienced my most memorable moment. Air space around the summit is strictly regulated; helicopters have to stay at least 1,500 feet above the ground—which makes flying into the crater a no-no. Even so, the view of the summit from that close angle, combined with the nearly vertical, green-encrusted south crater wall, messed with my sense of scale and proportion. I was in awe. Over Manawainui, verdant valleys revealed secrets at every turn. An enormous waterfall here, a series of inviting pools there. Throw in cliff-clinging goats and black volcanic streambeds, and Maui was literally at our feet.

Don’t make the mistake I did of staying glued to your phone’s video recorder. Sunshine Helicopters records the whole trip, available via purchasable thumb drive.

As we flew down and out of the wide, lush Waiho‘i Valley above Hāna town, Ka‘uiki Head came into view, flanked by iconic Hāna Bay Beach Park and small, crescent-shaped Kaihalulu, better known as Red Sand Beach. I never get tired of Hāna. Something about the charmingly isolated hamlet tickles a nostalgic part of my brain. The plantation-style architecture, lack of shopping malls, grazing farm animals, quaint historic churches, rural scenic beauty, and rugged shoreline are all a recipe for heaven on Earth.

My sentiments were confirmed when we landed at the tiny local airport. No pretense here. Just a low lava-rock wall separating the runway from the old airport building, a vestige of simpler times before the hassles of modern air travel. I was sad to see the flight end, but eager to start a closer exploration of Maui’s wilder region.

As if on cue, Kamie, from Barefoot Buggy, drove up as we touched

Top left: On our first leg in the buggy from Hāna Airport, I learn that Ryan likes to whistle and sing while he drives. Above: At Hana Farms’ stand on Hāna Highway, between ‘Ula‘ino and Alalele, you can stock up on all kinds of local surpises, from red Cuban bananas to Mauigrown chocolate from Hana Gold. Good coffee too!

ground. We bid farewell to Pete and our tour mates, and headed to the parking lot to greet her.

“What made you decide to write about the buggy?” Kamie asked. I started to explain how the pricey package tour fits into the luxury theme of the issue, when she stopped me short. “Oh, well, this isn’t luxury. This is redneck all the way!”

I chuckled at her frankness, but she was right. It took all of one minute for her to walk us through the no-frills features of the buggy, which is based on VW Beetles, with air-cooled engines

This drone shot of Hāna Bay yields a different perspective of peaks we had just floated above.

See Ryan’s air-and-land video footage and more photos at MauiMagazine.net/helicoptertour.

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ADVENTURE

Pu‘uki‘i Island is a state bird sanctuary off the coast of Ka‘uiki Head to the right of Hāna Bay Park. A short hike past the pier leads to a large rock with copper sign designating it as the birthplace of Ka‘ahumanu, queen regent of Hawai‘i from 1825 to 1832.

and four-speed manual transmissions. Barefoot Buggy’s vehicles come with a roll cage for safety, “bikini tops” in case of rain, and a small, lockable trunk. So with a sense of occasion, I changed into a tank top and baseball cap and embraced the low-tech challenge.

Kamie made sure we were good to go before hitching a ride back to Kahului in the helicopter.

I may have neglected to tell her that my shifting skills were rusty.

In fact, I hadn’t driven a manual transmission since high school.

Eager to get a shot of me driving, Ryan patiently waited as I fumbled with clutch and gears. Talk about performance anxiety—I managed

to move only a few feet before the inevitable stall. I had a flashback of being behind the wheel of my brother Angelo’s 1986 Toyota pickup truck, suffering endless starts and jerky stops as he tried to teach me the delicate balance between the clutch and the gas pedal.

Since Ryan had the most experience driving a stick, we decided that he should take the wheel. What our buggy lacked in social graces it made up for in character. The friendly smiley-face painted on its hood softened the angry roar of its engine. There were no doors, so we had to be limber to get under the roll bars and into the seats. Heads turned as we made our way around Hāna. I was Below the hill Kaiwiopele (literally “the bones of Pele”), Hāna’s Kōkī Beach offers swimming and surfing. But currents can be strong here; check conditions before venturing out.

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surprised to see locals’ and tourists’ faces light up and have them throw us friendly shaka gestures as we passed.

We made a pit stop for provisions at Hana Farms (whose freshly baked chocolate-chip banana bread, with its crunchy, sugarcrusted top, was the perfect pairing to a cup of joe), then headed east, toward Kaupō. With its serpentine curves and stunning vistas, the Hāna Highway is a popular Maui attraction, but that northwest passage tends to be congested, which could lead to stop-and-start traffic. Not so fun with a manual transmission. So, suitably caffeinated, we ventured on to hit the scenic spots beyond Hāna and Kīpahulu via the southwesterly route that would take us through Kaupō, then upcountry into Kula. We’d arrive back in Kahului in time to return the buggy before the six o’clock curfew.

After our second stop and an early lunch of hulihuli chicken at Kōkī Beach, I was ready to give the stick shift another try. To my surprise, I got the buggy into gear smoothly, and soon felt so at

Above, from left: Kingdom of Hawai‘i and State of Hawai‘i flags flutter in the breeze at Kōkī Beach; beyond them stands ‘Ālau Island, a seabird sanctuary. (Photo bomb courtesy of a cheeky butterfly.)

Gassing up the buggy at the only station in town. Farm-animal sightings are a charming aspect of a trip to Hāna.

Past Kīpahulu, the Hāna Highway (seen here and in the middle photo) gets narrow, rough, and— some say—dangerously close to the shore.

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ADVENTURE

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ease that I drove the rest of the way back. I felt empowered as I accelerated and shifted into the higher gears, especially on the long stretch of newly paved road west of Kaupō.

It was a thrill to rediscover that adrenaline rush. Okay, it wasn’t all Herbie the Love Bug; I stalled a few times in first gear. But hey, in my defense, the gears weren’t numbered, so I had to follow the “h” configuration by feel. Trial and error. Baptism by fire. I was out of my comfort zone, but driving the compact, open-air vehicle enabled me to

Above: Tiny Kaupō General Store is your last stop for refreshments before the forty-fiveminute stretch to Kēōkea. Below: Thanks to recent road repaving, the usually bumpy ride from Kaupō to Manawainui was a breeze.

connect more deeply with the road and my surroundings. I had unobstructed sightlines, the sun on my skin and the ocean breeze in my face. Ryan and I couldn’t hear each other, so we gave up trying to chat. Just as well, I could focus on becoming one with the buggy and the asphalt.

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IF YOU GO The helicopter is air-conditioned, the buggy is not. Dress accordingly.

If it’s raining, you’ll likely get wet even under the buggy’s bikini top; if it’s not, a hat and sunscreen are essential to avoid getting sunburned.

Make sure your phone is charged before you leave; the buggy has no charger. It does have a trunk just large enough for a backpack, but the rest of your stuff will be out in the open. The small cooler I brought and kept in the back seat was handy for cold drinks and snacks. Bonus: The roll bars double as hanging racks for towels—which you should bring if you plan on swimming. There are four major beaches along the Hāna Coast: Wai‘ānapanapa, Hāna Bay, Kōkī and Hāmoa . . . and for strong swimmers, Kaihalulu (Red Sand Beach).

Sunshine Helicopters and Barefoot Buggy offer a variety of tours and packages. Our package started at 7:30 a.m. at Kahului Heliport. The air tour takes about twenty minutes.

The buggy is yours for the rest of the day, but must be returned to Kahului Heliport by six p.m. The cost is $299 per person for the helicopter; the buggy rents for $299 (fits four).

SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS, INC. Kahului Heliport, Hangar #107, Kahului | 808-270-3999 | SunshineHelicopters.com BAREFOOT BUGGY 808-495-6797 | BarefootBuggy.com

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PHOTOS BY KARIM ILIYA

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2018

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kale hiai keal aika hiki D E F I N I N G

What’s

I D E N T I T Y

in a name?

For Hawaiians, the answer

could be:

Story by

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“Ever ything.”

Lehia Apana

HAWAIIAN SOUL

COURTESY OF RICKY APANA

In Hawaiian culture, names can be inspired by favorite places or significant events. In the case of this story’s writer, her parents’ connections to Kaho‘olawe and canoes played a role in determining her name.

Kalehiaikealaikahiki. That’s me, but everyone calls me “Lehia” for short. When your name includes twelve syllables and nearly as many letters as the alphabet, you often have some explaining to do.

I’ve told the story of my name countless times: My mother was in Tahiti on a canoe-paddling trip and became very sick. Upon visiting a local doctor, she was shocked to learn that she was pregnant. Returning home, she asked Hōkūlani Holt, a Hawaiian cultural practitioner and close family friend, to name her baby. The name Aunty Hōkū gave me, Kalehiaikealaikahiki, translates as “the skillful fisherman on the pathway to Tahiti.”

In Hawaiian belief, one’s name is so important that many parents ask someone fluent in the language, with a deep understanding of the culture, to determine what their baby will be called. But not every child receives a Hawaiian name the way I did. For example, a name can appear through a vision or sign (inoa hō‘ailona), or be given in memory of an event (inoa ho‘omana‘o). However it is chosen, one’s name is a prized possession, to be passed on only with the explicit permission of its owner.

One’s name has an existence all its own.

“In Hawaiian, we don’t ask, ‘What is your name?’ We ask, ‘Who is your name?’” explains Ekela Kaniaupio-Crozier, Hawaiian protocol facilitator at Kamehameha Schools Maui. “We truly believe it breathes and it has a life.”

She pauses before offering this caveat: “We’ve come to a point where you can pick a Hawaiian name off the computer, often without knowing what it could mean. As Hawaiians, we believe that one’s name becomes that person. It’s not something that should be taken lightly.”

Beyond the literal translation of a Hawaiian name is its kaona, or deeper, hidden meaning. Textured with layers of interpretation, a name can share family history, and attract forces both good and evil—

even ward off the supernatural.

Kaniaupio-Crozier shares the story of a former student whose daughter, mother and sister were all named Kūkae, the Hawaiian word for excrement.

“Someone had put a curse on the ‘ohana [family], so all the oldest daughters were named Kūkae. The thought was that no evil forces would want to touch them because they were already defiled.”

Kaniaupio-Crozier has given so many names that she’s lost count.

A fluent Hawaiian-language speaker and deeply rooted in her culture, she meticulously dissects each name before bestowing it.

“I take this kuleana [responsibility] very seriously because I understand the power of a name. If you don’t take care of it, if you don’t ‘oki [remove] the things that aren’t good for it, it could harm that person instead of being good for them,” she says.

As a young girl, Kaniaupio-Crozier imagined the child she might have someday.

“I remember thinking I had the perfect name for my first child: Kaleonahenahepāmaikamakani, which means ‘the sweet voice blowing in the wind.’ My grandmother disagreed. She said, ‘Ekela, who’s going to listen to that voice? It’s going to blow right past them and that voice will never be heard.’ She was right—and that was my first lesson in naming.”

Hawaiians believe that inspiration for names is everywhere, and that accepting the signs is imperative. An inoa pō, or night name, for example, comes to a family member in a dream, often from an ancestor or ‘aumakua (family god).

In one famous story, a woman received a name for her niece in a dream, but rejected it because of her Christian background. Soon after, the little girl became ill, and the aunt confessed. The family decided that an upset ‘aumakua was making the girl sick, and held a Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2018

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HAWAIIAN SOUL A Hawaiian name comes into being in different ways, and for different reasons, among them:

From the slopes of south Maui, Kaho‘olawe dominates the view; the Kealaikahiki Channel flows to the right of that island. Both inspired the writer’s name.

inoa hō‘ailona: a name that appears in a vision or a sign inoa ho‘omana‘o: a name commemorating an event inoa kūamuamu: a name to ward off bad spirits inoa kupuna: a name handed down from an ancestor inoa pō: a name appearing to a family member in a dream inoa ‘ulāleo: a name coming from a mystical voice

ceremony to change her name. Renamed Kawena‘ulaokalaniahi‘iakaikapoliopelekawahine‘aihonua (“the rosy glow in the sky made by Hi‘iaka, reared in the bosom of Pele, the earth-consuming woman”), the girl recovered and grew up to become the revered Hawaiian scholar Mary Kawena Pukui.

Exploring Hawaiian names for this story made me want to learn more about my own. I always thought that Kalehiaikealaikahiki (“the skillful fisherman on the pathway to Tahiti”) was fitting, given that my mother was in Tahiti when she discovered she was pregnant with me. But as I was about to learn, it wasn’t the whole story.

I began at the source: Hōkūlani Holt. Sitting across from the woman who had named me more than three decades earlier, I was suddenly overcome with emotion. Why, I wondered, did it take me this long to explore something so intimately woven into my life?

Turns out, this meeting would redefine my personal history.

Around the time of my birth, my parents were involved with the Protect Kaho‘olawe ‘Ohana, an activist group fighting against the U.S. military occupation and bombing of the “Target Island.” Although access to Kaho‘olawe was prohibited, they would periodically land there by boat.

“We were all very involved in the Protect Kaho‘olawe ‘Ohana, and that’s what came out during the initial discussion with your parents— the places that they loved and what they enjoyed doing,” Holt explains.

Among the areas they visited on Kaho‘olawe was Lae O Kealaikahiki (literally “the point of the pathway to Tahiti”). This westernmost tip of the island is said to be where thirteenth-century navigators departed to Tahiti, traveling along the Kealaikahiki Channel. Even today, it serves as a natural classroom for ocean navigators.

Holt adds, “During makahiki [an annual celebration of the Hawaiian god Lono], a small canoe is built, filled with ho‘okupu [offerings], and released into the Kealaikahiki Channel south towards Tahiti.

Your dad was very involved with the making of the canoes.

“I chose Kealaikahiki as part of your name because this place was special to your parents,” says Holt. “Lehia [meaning skilled, as in fishing] was selected because the fishing is very good on Kaho‘olawe, and

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[there is a] fishing connection with your dad.”

When I asked my father about those connections, he shared this story.

“Before you were born, we were at Kaho‘olawe for makahiki ceremonies. One of the guys went diving for fish, and you could tell he was proud when he came out of the water with a full line. A little while later, Rell Sunn [surfing champion and pioneer waterwoman] comes out with even more fish—blew him out of the water. I saw that, and I thought, she’s doing everything the guys are doing, and doing it better. I told myself, ‘My daughter can be like that, too.’”

Although I only recently learned the story of Rell Sunn and the fish, her story and mine have intertwined. I grew up with a taste for adventure, and the belief that I could do anything I set my mind to—from backpacking alone through Europe and Southeast Asia to competing in triathlons, a sport whose participants are mostly men.

But what of the story about my mother paddling in Tahiti while pregnant with me?

“When I told your mom about your name and its significance with Kaho‘olawe, she remembered the Tahiti connection,” explains Holt. “It didn’t factor into my choosing your name, but I often believe that when we discover things [after the fact], it’s because the inspiration came before. It’s like your kūpuna [ancestors] put it in my head that there is a connection.”

Throughout this process, I wondered why my parents never told me the kaona of my name and its connections with Kaho‘olawe. In part, it’s because I never asked.

Adds Holt, “I think that the name bearer has to be at a place in their life to hear the story. Even if you were told the story when you were twelve, you probably don’t remember because it wasn’t an important part of your thinking. Now, when you are ready to absorb all that is in the name, it has greater meaning for you.”

Indeed, one’s Hawaiian name exists also in the memories those words carry. While this experience has opened my heart and deepened my appreciation for my name, I also understand that this is not where my journey ends. (This story first appeared in the September/ October 2014 issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi.)

TOP: RON DAHLQUIST; FAR RIGHT: COURTESY OF RICKY APANA; ALL OTHERS: PROTECT KAHO‘OLAWE ‘OHANA

Left: Lae O Kealaikahiki, the westernmost point on Kaho‘olawe, is home to makahiki ceremonies.

Center: A procession on Kaho‘olawe honors the god Lono.

Right: The writer’s father (at left in photo) secures the lashings on a ceremonial canoe he carved as part of the makahiki observance.

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After a session in Spa Montage’s cedar sauna, writer Alma Tassi chills out in the infinity pool, relaxing with a smoothie before her two-therapist massage.

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WHAT IT INCLUDES: The moment I stepped into the hale

(thatched house), I knew I was in for a treat. Orchids carefully arranged on ti leaves adorned the massage table. Adjacent to the table stood a stone shower with a roof of slatted wood.

Folding doors opened to lush gardens. My two therapists greeted me warmly, their hushed tones reminding me to settle in and let them take care of me. And boy, did they ever. In perfect synchronicity, they employed dry brushing to wake my circulation. I couldn’t help but murmur, “Oh. My. Goodness.”

They then applied a body scrub made with mineral-rich sea salts and eucalyptus. Still tingling, I stepped into the shower and rinsed away the scrub, ready to continue my ocean journey: a massage that incorporated cleansing milk with algae extract, and a seaweed-infused oil to rehydrate my skin. Before I could finish the thought, “Is this really happening to me?” one therapist applied pressure to release any remaining stress in my face and neck, while the other tenderly rubbed each of my toes.

Heaven!

THE PERKS: With its heated plunge pool backed by bamboo trees, and a plumeria tree growing right in the middle of the facility, this open-air setting envelops you in the natural beauty of Kapalua. After a swim in the infinity pool and a sip from an umbrella-adorned smoothie, you can relax in the cedar sauna and sweat away pesky toxins, then head to the eucalyptus steam room to kiss your concerns goodbye.

MEMORABLE MOMENT: While in my dazed state of bliss, I From top, left to right: Talented hands prepare a scrub of Kerstin Florian Turkish salt. Our writer sinks into the bliss of being cradled and coddled by massage experts. Bathed in natural light, the hale is a place of peace and privacy. Spa Montage therapists strip away stress while exfoliating the skin. Talk about head-to-toe service!

Alma gets the temperature just right before closing the shower door for a rinse that basks in the sunlight.

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sensed multiple streams of heat running down my body, precise as lasers. I asked Bo, one of the therapists, what was happening, and he whispered in my ear, “Magic.” I later discovered they were using heated lava stones, but Bo’s response felt so right in that moment.

THE COST: $610 for 90 minutes—Alma Tassi

BEN FERRARI; TOP RIGHT: COURTESY OF SPA MONTAGE

THE FIX: For anyone who needs to let go of stress and embrace deep relaxation.

HEALTH & WELLNESS

Four hands are better than two: With each synchronized push and pull on tight, achy muscles, all the to-dos on your list melt away.

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THE TREATMENT: Hawaiian Herbal Embrace for Two | The Ritz-Carlton Spa, Kapalua | Ritz Carlton.com/kapalua | 665-7079 WHAT IT INCLUDES: Husband Chris and I

Middle: An outdoor shower midtreatment removes exfoliated skin. Above: A massage with kukui-nut oil softens my gardening-roughened hands.

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eased onto separate massage tables as classical music drifted into the cozy room, and soon our two therapists were working in tandem, immersing each of us in an invigorating, scented salt scrub . . . followed by a cleansing shower . . . and then more aromatherapy with an oil-scented massage. We drew in deep, slow breaths as our bodies luxuriated in the touch of Hawaiian lomilomi massage; using the pressure of their forearms, our therapists administered long, fluid movements to our back muscles. The “Embrace” is literally head to toe—or rather, toe to head—from a detoxifying salt foot scrub, to the cocoon of a warm towel wrap, to a sensuous coconut-oil scalp massage.

And not just toe to head, but inside/out. The treatment includes halo therapy, based on the ancient Greek practice of adding mineral salts to the bath and breathing the salt-scented steam to remove impurities in the lungs and tissues. Chris and I relaxed in the steamy-hot bathtub and touched toes as the tropical-scented citrus, spice and herb mineral salts awakened our minds and bodies to healing.

BEST FOR: Exfoliating the dermis to baby-skin

smoothness, enlivening the scalp’s circulation, and

detoxifying the body from the bottom up. The exfoliating scrub is not recommended for someone with sensitive skin, skin ailments or sunburn.

THE PERKS: We arrived thirty minutes early and learned that we’d have free run of the entire spa and fitness facility before and after the treatment. I happily soaked in the grotto-like Jacuzzi and slipped into the dry sauna twice before our treatment, while Chris opted to enjoy the relaxation room, where he read, hydrated with fruit-infused filtered water and “Zenned-out.”

WHY IT’S WORTH IT: The invigorating salt

scrub with ‘alaea salt (containing micro particles of Hawaiian volcanic red clay), combined with rare sandalwood oil, is an exhilarating experience.

Sandalwood, once abundant in the mountains on all the major Hawaiian Islands, was harvested and exported nearly to extinction more than a century ago. Being able to wrap myself in an aromatherapy of sandalwood for two hours was a huge treat. My husband especially enjoyed and benefited from the ‘alaea-salt foot scrub and rejuvenating warm-towel wrap. As a former long-distance runner (think Run to the Sun in his younger days), he abused his feet and now they are forever grateful for pedi-love and attention.

THE COST: $700 for two for 110 minutes, plus all-day use of the spa and fitness center. The fitness center is open round-the-clock. Spa hours are 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., with spa services 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

(Hours are subject to change.)—Becky Speere

BEN FERRARI

Hawaiian Embrace

Clockwise from far left: Lomilomi, a traditional Hawaiian massage, relieves muscle strain by applying pressure with the entire forearm in a flowing, wavelike movement. Our writer gets anointed with warm coconut oil that is then massaged into her scalp. Heated wraps are a treat for one’s feet. Bowls filled with aromatic sea salt stand ready to exfoliate the skin.

HEALTH & WELLNESS

Go with the Flow THE TREATMENT: Healing Waters of

Maui Journey | Spa Grande at the Grand Wailea | GrandWailea.com/spa | 875-1234, ext. 4949

WHAT IT INCLUDES: Pampering from head to toe, beginning with a refreshing body exfoliation, followed by a luxurious body masque, steam cocoon, a meditative moment with a cup of kava/ginger tea, relaxing aromatherapy, full-body massage, scalp massage and foot wrap. Does not include peeling you off the massage table and pouring you into your car after you’ve dissolved into a puddle of contentment.

SELLING POINT: Spa Grande incorporates the “Healing Waters of Maui” theme not only in its terme baths, but in every aspect of this treatment, as you indulge in the scents and sensations of misty clouds, refreshing waterfalls, soothing streams, lush rainforests and rejuvenating ocean, each with its distinct aroma and specific therapeutic effect.

MIEKO HORIKOSHI; BOTTOM RIGHT: COURTESY OF THE GRAND WAILEA

MEMORABLE MOMENT: After the fragrant

salt scrub left every inch of my skin with a sweet, subtle tingle, multiple overhead faucets gently rained warm water over the length of my still-prone body, while the therapist used a handheld showerhead for a closer, cooler rinse. The unexpected simultaneous contrast of water temperatures brought me to ecstasy and inspired me to devise a home version.

All I need is a shower hose to run from the bathroom sink. And a willing attendant.

AMENITIES: The custom products by ‘Ala

Lani Bath & Body are crafted with locally sourced Hawaiian plants and minerals along with a special selection of essential oils.

Healing Waters bath salts and misters are available for purchase, with a portion of the proceeds going to Charity Water.org.

From top, left to right: The shared lānai between the men’s and women’s facilities offers a panoramic view of the Grand Wailea’s expansive grounds. A rinse beneath a personal summer rainshower follows the body exfoliation. Longtime Spa Grande therapist Karen Stavash was instrumental in creating the Healing Waters treatment. A steam cocoon is the perfect prep for a full-body, deep-tissue massage. Spa Grande’s terme circuit features five specialty baths.

THE PERKS: Getting to spend an hour in the terme before the treatment, to relax the body and create the perfect frame of mind for the bliss that follows. Plus, you get to take home a vial of your sleep-enhancing aromatherapy oil.

THE COST: $395 for 110 minutes.

—Kathy Collins Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2018

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The Perfect Blend

THE TREATMENT: From toes to nose . . . this was a custom, à la

carte spa immersion designed to pamper, revive, and beautify. ‘Āwili Spa & Salon | Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort | Maui.Andaz.Hyatt. com/en/hotel/our-hotel | 808-575-1234

BEST FOR: This is the ultimate gift to give to a bride, a mom, or any

other woman who deserves a day of total relaxation that ends with looking beautiful. (And what woman doesn’t deserve it?) I arrived around 10 a.m. and finished after 4 p.m.—not an experience for the hyperactive, but certainly the fantasy spa day most of us dream of.

THE SURPRISE: I admit to being a little skeptical of the

Apothecary Blending Experience (I’m not a fan of perfume), but my guide through the olfactory mapping was so expert, I soon found my path to the perfect scent for me. Once I was ensconced in the sunlit therapy room, each lovely stroke of my masseuse’s expert hands, combined with this personalized oil, transported me to a state of bliss. If this is aromatherapy . . . it works.

WHY IT’S WORTH IT: The massage melted away all my cares and aches, and left me lamenting having to get off the table . . . until my therapist announced she would also be doing my facial and I would not have to move a muscle. In true ‘āwili fashion, she moved expertly from body treatment to facial, incorporating one with the other.

While my face enjoyed a warm, moisturizing mist, she went back to bodywork, and while a nourishing mask soaked into my thirsty skin, she attended to my hands, arms and feet. I emerged after two-plus hours, totally relaxed, with glowing skin (and smelling divine), only to be led to a private cabana for lunch.

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Clockwise from top left: Our publisher picks chai for her base scent, grounded with earthy scents of amber, tobacco and bay leaf; and sweetened with ylang-ylang (similar to jasmine). The apothecary reception area offers a world of exotic scents. Natural light sets the tone in the treatment room, while bright light helps cosmetologist Petra assess skin type to customize an organic facial.

LEAVE GORGEOUS: After lunch, it was all about beauty and fun. I

was led back to the spa, this time to the salon, and into a big, comfy massaging chair positioned to take in the ocean view—truly a cocoon of relaxation. Both my hands and feet enjoyed expert attention, as my manicurists provided a scrub, exfoliation and massage, then applied the polish of my choice. Their company was as much fun as the service. While my polished toenails were drying, I enjoyed an indulgent scalp massage followed by a hair wash and blow dry.

Beautifully applied makeup completed my transformation. Voila!

AMENITIES: ‘Āwili is full service—nothing is overlooked. In addition to treatments, guests enjoy access to a wonderful sauna, steam room, plunge pool, relaxation room and (my favorite) tranquility pool.

THE COST: À la carte prices for above services: Apothecary Blending Experience $35 | essential massage (60 minutes) $185 | organic facial (60 minutes) $185 | shellac manicure $85 | pedicure $85 | scalp ritual using Beauty Ritual Oil from Kuleana Beauty Line $30 | makeup $85 | blow-dry bar $70 | full day (not including lunch) $760

‘Āwili Spa also offers packages, the most luxurious being the fivehour Indulge Journey for $610. Includes Apothecary Blending Experience, Thai massage, bath ritual, lunch in a cabana with a glass of champagne, spa pedicure and manicure.—Diane Haynes Woodburn

MIEKO HORIKOSHI

WHAT IT INCLUDES: In Hawaiian, ‘āwili means “to mix, blend, intertwine.” So what could be more fitting than combining some of ‘Āwili Spa’s most popular offerings? My day began with the Apothecary Blending Experience, followed by an Essential Massage and Organic Facial, lunch served at a poolside cabana (which I enjoyed while still wrapped in my robe), manicure, pedicure, scalp massage, makeup, shampoo and blow dry.

HEALTH & WELLNESS

From top, left to right: Pampering comes with a view as manicurist Caroline applies a gel, while Melissa artfully does Diane’s makeup. Being served a gourmet lunch and a glass of Patz & Hall Chardonnay while relaxing at poolside in a robe? No wonder the name Cleopatra comes to mind! A custom-blended foot scrub and organic facial with Eminence Organic skincare products add an indulgent feeling, head to toe. The clean elegance of a French tip? Mais oui! There’s nothing more luxurious than emerging from the salon relaxed, glowing and feeling beautiful. A glass of wine to top it off, and it’s time for dinner at Andaz Maui’s Ka‘ana Kitchen.

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ADVERTORIAL

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Join Maui Stargazing for a breathtaking sunset at Haleakalā summit, followed by a fascinating laser tour of the constellations.

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MAUI CRAFT TOURS

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ALOHA THAI MASSAGE

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ADVERTORIAL

WHALE TALES

Hosted by Whale Trust, Whale Tales is Hawai‘i’s premier whale research and education event. Open to the public, this annual four-day Maui event brings together international marine experts with residents and visitors from around the world. February 16–18 at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua; February 19 at Hyatt Regency Maui Resort, Kā‘anapali. WhaleTales.org

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WAILEA GOLF CLUB

With over 150 accolades, gorgeous ocean vistas and more fairways to enjoy than at any other resort in Hawai‘i, Wailea Golf Club and its trio of courses are a must-play for any golfer. More info and special offers available online. WaileaGolf.com

FOUR WINDS II / MAUI CLASSIC CHARTERS

Snorkel Molokini or West Maui’s Coral Gardens and discover a rainbow of tropical fish and coral reefs. With its glass-bottomed room and waterslide, the Four Winds II is fun for all ages. We provide breakfast, lunch, and all the gear you need for an unforgettable adventure. FourWindsMaui.com | 808-879-8188

KAI KANANI

Experience the most exclusive snorkeling and sailing tour on Maui, departing from Mākena’s Maluaka Beach. Take in Molokini Crater without the crowds. Savor locally sourced foods from The Market Maui and a premium bar. Let the wind pull you along as you toast another gorgeous Maui sunset with champagne. We are South Maui’s premier boat. Book online or visit our retail store in Wailea Gateway Center. 808-879-7218 | KaiKananai.com

HO‘OMANA SPA MAUI

Ho‘omana Spa Maui is a Hawaiian-owned day spa, bringing ancient healing ways to your modern spa experience. Offering lomi lomi massage, ho‘oponopono (energetic alignment), lā‘au lapa‘au (plant medicine), transformational Hawaiian spa rituals, luxurious couples’ retreats, healing baths and body treatments.

HoomanaSpaMaui.com | 808-573-8256 Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2018

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ADVERTORIAL

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Treat yourself or a loved one to a handmade Maui treasure by Tom Burke.

Helix designs, inspired by DNA tests and family history, are accented with Tahitian pearls symbolizing wisdom through experience, purity, generosity, integrity and loyalty. Call for appointment.

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Established in 2007, this globally responsible company works directly with family artisans from 5 different countries, providing fair-trade employment to hundreds of economically disadvantaged superstars. Visit Hawai‘i’s largest hammock in Ha‘ikū, or the biggest little hammock shop in Lahaina. 810 Ha‘ikū Road, Ha‘ikū | 658 Front Street, Lahaina | HangLooseHammocksHI.com

‘OPIHI MAUI

Based in Upcountry Kula, ‘Opihi Maui is named for a Hawaiian limpet—a delicacy symbolic of steadfastness, simplicity, nourishment and a strong foundation. We aspire to perpetuate our Hawaiian culture, values, and language, getting our inspiration from our ancestors and land. OpihiMaui.com | OpihiMaui@gmail.com

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Win a trip to Maui!

Fly Alaska Airlines to Maui and enjoy three luxurious nights at Andaz Maui at Wailea!

Prize includes round-trip air travel for two, three nights in an ocean view room with expansive views of the Pacific, one spa treatment at ‘Āwili Spa and Salon and dinner for two at the award-winning Ka‘ana Kitchen restaurant—a $7800 value.

Contest runs January 1–February 28, 2018.

Winner will be notified by phone on March 6, 2018.

For entry form, rules and restrictions, visit MauiMagazine.net/WinMaui2018.

ARTISTS ON LOCATION

TOP: BRADLEY W. PAULSON; MIDDLE RIGHT: RANDY JAY BRAUN; LEFT: COURTESY OF ART MAUI

THE ART

OF SPRING Clockwise from top: Michael Clements at Hanakao‘o Beach Park (“Canoe Beach”), 2017 Maui Plein Air Painters Invitational; Pohaku Kaho‘ohanohano weaves lauhala at Celebration of the Arts; Ana Doolin’s Paper Thin Hotel, Art Maui 2017

Poetry by Lali Groth

“In the Spring,” Tennyson opined, “a young man’s fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love.”

We beg to differ.

On Maui, the season is more of a muse—judging by five notable events that will celebrate the Islands, their people and cultures, beginning with the Schaefer Portrait Challenge, on display mid-January through mid-March. The Maui Arts & Cultural Center established the triennial show in 2003 to encourage artists throughout Hawai‘i to honor the everyday people among us, and to let you meet them face to face.

Open Studios follows in February, with Maui artists welcoming the public into their studios each weekend to observe, ask questions, and revel in a brush with creativity. February is also when established artists from Hawai‘i and the mainland spend a week painting out of doors and invite you to watch them work. The aptly named Maui Plein Air Painting Invitational includes painting competitions, lectures and

an exhibit of works (available for purchase) at The Village Galleries.

In March, The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, puts on a festival of an even more traditional kind: a Celebration of the Arts perfected by kanaka maoli—Hawai‘i’s first people. For one bright weekend, The Ritz explores indigenous culture and tradition through performance, film, hands-on demonstrations, exhibitions and more. Last, but never least, Art Maui returns to the Schaefer International Gallery in April.

The granddaddy of Maui’s juried art exhibits is turning forty, and far from showing its age, this multimedia event continues the goal of its founders—George and Janet Allan, Marian Freeman and Dick Nelson—to raise art awareness (and eyebrows) every year.

We asked Maui poet and visual artist Lali Groth to examine these events the way painters, sculptors and other artists do: by taking a creative risk that we hope will engage you and lead you to insights you didn’t know you had.

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ARTISTS ON LOCATION

A RT M AU I

Tre Venninner by Nancy Skrimstad

Launiupoko 4 by Larry Berko

Hollow Box Ring by Christine Cafferata

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Yellow beaked mynah bird larger and more melodic than a missionary, cane fire, cane fields, mongoose running across the road, hurry, hurry.

Local kids in the back of a truck, hair flying, surfboards bungeed in.

Haupia popsicles, Launiupoko, shards of blue, ocean hue— cerulean, bird’s egg, celadon.

Crouched supple body ready to paddle out, over or through a turquoise swell, waiting for the set, goofy foot, stand up, cut to the right, black pearl, hollow box.

Sunset set, all coral, salmon, hansa yellow, black ink viscosities of the night.

And morning with its red dirt, red trees, golden spined mountains, sugar cane, color planes, tre venninner, three girlfriends, Twombliesque pencil marks, crayon smudge, cardboard versus canvas, yellow dory, exiles, mu‘umu‘us, lotus pod.

What’s endemic? What’s not?

We’re mostly not.

We’re more like calabash cousins, patterned in rain and sea spray like a pale blue weave of waves on a field of orange, here once more to define, reflect, spin, throw, carve, sew, and tend our blue atoll in the Pacific, our Maui home.

Atoll by Marianne J. Lowry

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF ART MAUI/SCHAEFER INTERNATIONAL GALLERY

Missionary Mynah Mongoose by Neida Bangerter

Landing of the Exiles

by Robert Suzuki

Flow by Michael Worcester

April 2–28 Schaefer International Gallery Maui Arts & Cultural Center One Cameron Way, Kahului ArtMaui.com

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SCHAEFER P O RT R A I T CHALLENGE Rembrandt paid homage with honest likeness and turpentine.

In these islands we find portraiture blooming with what’s ordinary and with gratitude January 16–March 18 Schaefer International Gallery sometimes like a snapshot—sundrenched, Maui Arts & Cultural Center a child’s shovel trailing across the sand, One Cameron Way, Kahului singing, “This is us”—or a glimpse MauiArts.org of the things we carried.

A selfie leaves its image exponentially, but here the artist’s self is mounted anachronistically on silk—scribbled in vermillion and black sumi ink.

Takemoto, like Basho or Kerouac, emotes and winks, “Who am I—this person I think I know best,” and answers “Hah?!” in a passing breath.

How do we reveal the interior of another?

Do color and brushstroke suffice?

Picasso says, “Are we to paint what’s on the face, inside the face or what’s behind it?”

Vermeer’s women are self-contained, inviolate, housed alone in light as is the alla prima Katarina, elusive as a breaking wave immediate and untouched.

Whether with mesa clay or Styrofoam, the artist coils or chisels to bring one’s nature form.

Mark making is an ancient urge.

To remember, to record, is it in our soul’s code to create and preserve?

Let these portraits hold our places 3 as we dissolve and move on.

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2

From the 2015 Challenge:

2. Deeply Rooted by Chenta Laury Wool on masi 3. From Chauvet to Styro

by Darrell Orwig Styrofoam, charcoal, copper 4. Self Portrait, with Oxygen by the late Gini Lawson Oil on canvas 5. Dream Day by Lynne Garzino Oil. Garzino’s subject is her friend Katarina.

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COURTESY OF SCHAEFER PORTRAIT CHALLENGE

1. HAH?! by Michael Takemoto Ink on paper mounted on silk scroll

ARTISTS ON LOCATION

M AU I O P E N STUDIOS

TOP 3: COURTESY OF MAUI OPEN STUDIOS; BOTTOM: LALI GROTH

Take the Lower Kula Highway out towards Kēōkea, a slow climb through what used to be mostly pasture and farm, views of the ocean and Lāna‘i peeling off to the right, out through jacaranda, silky oak and eucalyptus, past Rice Park on your left, the farm stand’s strawberry fields on your right.

Pass the telephone exchange, and you’re getting close— quarter mile more and you’re at Polipoli Road; take a left and head up over the stone bridge that spans the gully where in 2007, during a flashflood, DeRego lost ten goats; Henry Lau, a truck.

Clockwise from top left: Sally Worcester, Rachael Holton, Emily Hickman, Pam Andelin studio

At Koheo, hang a left, and watch for chickens, loose in the nasturtiums.

Across from the Chinese cemetery, pull into the drive, and you’ve arrived at the studio of Pam Andelin—beyond the green plantation house— a detached green shed that wafts of mineral spirits and oil paints.

Inside, Andelin recalls her artist father taking her along when painting on location: “He took me to Chinatown, to Lani Kai, to taro fields, and abandoned coastlines.

And now, like him, I always seem to paint what is gradually disappearing: cane houses, tin roofs, the storefront of old Kitada’s, Shim’s horse above St. John’s, pineapple fields, Paukūkalo— old Hawai‘i.”

Weekends through February | If you’ve caught a chill at this altitude, Reception head back down the Kula Highway, February 3, again, pass the telephone exchange and Rice Park; Pā‘ina at Copp Road, take a right up the hill towards Calasa’s gas station, Building, then a left at the top, and before you reach Morihara Store, UH–Maui Worcester’s Glass Works looms on the left.

College | There you’ll find Sally in front of the furnace, Schedule at dipping her blowpipe, gathering glass, MauiOpen transparent as water, molten like lava.

Studios.com She rolls and shapes it on a sheet of steel, this glowing saffron orb, this fragile world of heat.

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Clockwise from top left: An artist takes the mountain as his muse at last year’s opening Paint Out; Australian artist Leon Holmes’s Heading East, 2017’s Best in Show; Lahaina Harbor by California artist Jim McVicker; Pu‘unene by Maui artist Ronaldo Macedo

M AU I P L E I N A I R PA I N T E R S I N V I TAT I O N A L The first plein air painters of Hawai‘i started out as naturalists, hired hands on European Exhibition trips.

Photography having not been invented yet, these artists set out to record the land and its topography, its curves and birds, its plants and people, its culture, and colonial industry.

From John Webber, whose fame came from an engraving of the death of Captain Cook, to Jules Tavernier, whose fascination with volcanoes extended to the smoke-hazed valley of Pu‘unēnē in 1885, where he set up easel, and painted the red-roofed sugar mill below the slope of Haleakalā.

These painters are our historians—they seek to document a point in time, a vantage that will fade from view.

The finery of sugar—red trucks, molasses, green fields of cane; Macedo’s frame captures last haul and harvest.

A year later, Holmes elegizes the mill in ghostly quietude:

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“When we passed the old mill on our way to the volcano, I had already envisaged it with late light. All day the image brewed.

Returning late afternoon, heading west on Hansen Road, the light was falling fast— so we pulled off to the side, Greg ventured into the field a little deeper, Katie set up behind me.

I listened and the painting was dictated by light rays falling across the mountains, the dark line of the range, the milky slants of light—it was important to get this right, so I painted them in first.

From there I was able to build the shapes, the silhouette of the mill rising up from the ground, the mountains, washed in violet and blue; with a rag and a few brushes, I flooded the sky with clouds.”

TOP LEFT: BRADLEY W. PAULSON; ALL OTHERS: JOSE MORALES

February 17–25 | Visit MauiPlein AirPainting.org for details.

ARTISTS ON LOCATION

C E L E B R AT I O N OF T HE ARTS

March 30 & 31 The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, Kapalua KapaluaCelebrationOfTheArts.com

Standing along the water’s edge of Kapalua Bay at Honokahua Beach, we listen to the practitioners: “We are here to become, we are here to tell our stories in our many different ways, and to do that, we need to be out of the mundane and into our spiritual realm.

This ceremony this morning—this hi‘uwai—of going into the ocean, of releasing the negative, of letting things float away, is how we prepare.”

So says Lyons Kapi‘aoho‘okalani Naone.

E ala e, ka la i ka hikina.

Awaken, arise, the sun is in the east.

RIGHT MIDDLE: COURTESY OF THE RITZ-CARLTON, KAPALUA; ALL OTHERS: RANDY JAY BRAUN

“When we go into the ocean, separated from everybody, we reflect,” says Iokepa Nae‘ole.

“We reflect on our lives and on the events that are happening in our lives, and at the same time, we call upon our kūpuna, our ancestors, and our creator, to help us make sense and relieve us of all our burdens.

So when we come out of the ocean, we do so with an unfiltered mind.”

I ka moana, ka moana, hohonu From the ocean, the deep ocean As we wade into the church of the ocean, blue surf swirling around our hips, sweet salt cleanses our bodies, heals our mind and spirit, and attunes us to the harmony of art and ancestry and myth.

E ala e!

Clockwise from top: Wading into early-morning surf to cleanse body, mind and spirit. The call of the conch heralds the opening festivities. With infinite patience, skilled hands string a feather lei . . . or carve a tiki’s fierce visage.

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ADVERTORIAL

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Classical oil painting merges with modern abstraction in Reilly’s “Love and Myth” series. Celebrate the beauty of modern-classical art in your own personal collection. Preview these fascinating new paintings and other works at the artist’s West Maui studio.

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HUI NO‘EAU VISUAL ARTS CENTER

Experience art and history at Maui’s most treasured visual-arts destination. Hui No‘eau’s studios and galleries offer a complete range of visual-arts programming. Exhibitions showcase talented island artists. The gift shop features an exclusive collection of Maui-made artwork. Open to the public daily, 9 a.m.–4 p.m. Free admission. 2841 Baldwin Avenue, Makawao | HuiNoeau.com

Featuring Saturday, Feb 17 • 7:30 am - 1 pm Lahaina Harbor Kick Off Paint Out & Art Sale

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Friday, Feb. 23 • 9 am - 11 am Hanakao`o Beach Park (Canoe Beach) Quick Draw

Debra Huse (CA)

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Suzie Greer Baker (TX)

Ronaldo Macedo (Maui) James McGrew (OR)

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www.MauiPleinAirPainting.org

ISLAND BUSINESS

Neat rows of spiky-topped pineapples once defined the lower slopes of Maui’s two volcanoes, while undulating fields of sugarcane painted a vast green lawn across the central valley.

In 2009, after a 97-year run, Maui Land and Pineapple Company stopped growing its iconic fruit. Seven years later, Hawaiian Commercial and Sugar Company held its last harvest, closing out nearly 150 years of production. These two crops once dominated the island’s landscape, covering a combined 43,000 acres, and employed more than 2,500 people. And they forever changed the face of Hawai‘i’s population, as immigrants from China, Japan, the Philippines, Portugal and elsewhere settled here to work in the fields and mills.

The demise of pine and sugar signaled not just a shift in employment, but the end of the plantation era, a time when a single company, with a single crop, could wield an outsized influence on the island’s economy, politics, demographics, environment and culture. Today, most of the old pineapple fields have transitioned to on-the-books assets for ML&P’s land-development business. Cattle, instead of cane harvesters, now chow down on former sugar land; other acres are slated for possible food or energy crops—from coffee and cacao to microgreens and hemp.

What will this new landscape look like? In this series, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi examines who’s growing what and where, and what it could mean for life on this volcanic patch in the middle of the Pacific.—Teya Penniman

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Maui’s Changing Landscape After more than a century, Maui’s two largest agricultural companies have harvested their final crops. With this first installment in a yearlong series, we explore the future of farming on our still mostly rural island.

ILLUSTRATION BY MATT FOSTER Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2018

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CESERE BROTHERS

Part I:

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ISLAND BUSINESS

The sun may have set on two of Maui’s main agribusinesses, but a local company is betting its future on energy crops.

STORY BY TEYA PENNIMAN

On the slopes of Waikapū in Central Maui, young flowers perched atop thick green stalks track the sun’s arc from east to west. In immature plants, one side of the stalk gets longer during the day, while the other pushes up at night. The pattern allows petal heads to bask in the sun’s rays all day long, an adaptation that enhances photosynthesis and helps attract pollinators to the warm flowers. As growth slows and the stems stiffen, the plants lock into a perpetual sun salutation to the east.

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If one company’s vision bears fruit, the future will include a sea of giant yellow happy faces. The year after sugar shut down, golden blooms lit up fields in Central Maui. Thousands of tourists and residents flocked to the farm to snap giddy photos of themselves among the sunflowers. The showy plants turned the spotlight on Pacific Biodiesel, a family-owned and -operated company that has been working in agriculture and energy for the past two decades.

“There was a lot of excitement about the sunflowers,” says Kelly King, vice president of Pacific Biodiesel, which planted its first crop on former cane fields leased from the owners of Maui Tropical Plantation. King says the company has a longstanding commitment to producing a cleaner, greener alternative to petroleum-based diesel. Growing its own feedstock is the next step on that path.

Kelly’s husband, company president Bob King, knew the world of diesel as a mechanic; his business held a contract to maintain generators at the Central Maui landfill. He saw both waste and opportunity in the tons of used cooking oil pouring into the dumpsite. In 1999, the Kings opened their first refinery on Maui, turning grease into biofuel. In 2000, they built a second refinery on O‘ahu. In 2012, they shifted most of their operations to Hawai‘i Island, where their new, state-of-the-art refinery produces 5.5 million gallons of biodiesel annually.

Pacific Biodiesel employs eighty people statewide, and has built thirteen facilities across the U.S. and in Japan. But Maui remains home to its corporate office and a retail pump station. In recent years the company has pulled back from technology sales.

“We wanted to refocus on operating in Hawai‘i, making the best fuel we could,” says Jenna (King) Long, director of operations, and Bob and Kelly’s (locally grown) daughter. Long adds that they want to make the process, as well as the product, more sustainable.

Currently the company collects oil across the state, sends it to the

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Big Island refinery, then ships the biofuel back to the other islands.

That model is less efficient, and the supply of used cooking oil in the islands is limited. “We’ve been talking about growing feedstock almost since we started the company,” says Long. “We knew this would be the long-term way to expand.”

Federal funding aimed at advancing energy security supported the Kings’ search for the ideal biofuel crop, which led them to sunflowers. It takes only ninety days for the plants to go “from soil to oil,” and sunflowers have a flexibility bonus: you can eat the oil, make fuel out of it, turn the byproduct of the extraction process into high-protein livestock food, and even crush the stalks into fibrous building material.

Today, Pacific Biodiesel’s sunflower fields occupy 115 acres, planted in rotation in plots of 10 to 15 acres. The first harvest produced a cosmetic-grade oil; for now, you’re more likely to encounter it during a massage than at the pump. Kelly King says the company intends to scale up in steps, planting 100 acres and from there expanding to 500 or 1,000 acres. “If we can prove the economy and consistency of 1,000 acres, the [goal] would be to plant 10,000 to 12,000 acres.”

Sunflowers own the day for now, but King notes that different crops can feed a refinery, a big plus if a devastating pest or disease wipes out the original plant source. Long term, the Kings envision rotating fuel and food crops, such as soybeans or safflowers. If the model proves successful, each island could grow its own feedstock, recycle waste oils, and produce biofuel.

The plan has two key challenges: demand and funding. Long acknowledges, “We’re competing against petroleum diesel fuel, [whose] prices fluctuate daily. When [petroleum] prices are higher, it’s easier to get our fuel into the market.” The company has been working to secure a long-term commitment from more dependable consumers, such as the public-transportation sector, utility companies and the military, but has received mixed messages.

BRYAN BERKOWITZ

ISLAND BUSINESS

Opposite page: Bob King drives a giant red combine powered by his company’s biodiesel to scoop up droopy sunflower heads.

Left: Operations director Jenna Long reviews production with plant engineer Scott Proskow (right) and manager Tony Pastrama at the company’s Hawai‘i Island refinery. Is biodiesel actually cleaner and greener? It depends on the age of the equipment burning the fuel, the type of feedstock, and the potential for useful byproducts. Pacific Biodiesel’s refinery uses advanced distillation technology to produce the highest-quality biodiesel in the U.S. On Earth Day 2016, it became the first facility in the world to be certified by the Sustainable Biodiesel Alliance.

COURTESY OF PACIFIC BIODIESEL

Above: For now, Maui sunflower oil is cosmetic grade, available for spas and salons under Pacific Biodiesel’s retail Kuleana brand.

“It’s a ‘Catch-22’ situation,” says King. “Hawaiian Electric Company will always need a source for firm backup power,” but without a commitment now to create that extra capacity, biofuel might not be there when it’s needed. Pacific Biodiesel continues to seek support at federal and local levels; in the meantime, the trials on Maui are self-funded.

Where do those challenges leave Pacific Biodiesel? And what do they mean for Maui?

Long says expansion into agriculture, cosmetics, and animal feed are all pieces in the sustainability puzzle—and the company’s continued viability. “We’re not going to grow a crop just to make fuel. We need to become a multifaceted company.” Diversification, she says, helps them get through times when fuel prices dive.

“That’s one of the reasons we are the oldest continuing biodiesel company in the U.S.” King highlights plans for more partnerships. “We never thought we’d be doing the growing, but farmers aren’t huge risk takers. We decided we’d have to show people [this economic model] could work.” And sunflowers aren’t the only reason King wants to encourage more farmers. Assuming permitting issues get resolved, the company is looking at hemp production, and has applied for a grant to train apprentice farmers on how to use heavy equipment for row crops. Based on the Kings’ track record, persistence seems likely to pay off.

The Pacific Biodiesel model might help define not only the look, but also the long-term trend for agriculture on Maui—a patchwork quilt across the island’s arable land, created by a host of players with vision and dedication, working together to increase our food and energy security.

“I used to have a picture of a sunflower field at the pump station at Pacific Biodiesel,” says King. “It was almost a life-changing moment when that first sunflower bloomed—a precursor of something coming down the pike.”

Below: Company founders Kelly and Bob King see a bright future in sunflowers’ energy- and food-crop potential.

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AT HOME

Story by Sarah Ruppenthal Photography

by Liam Ball & Taja KoĹĄir PopoviÄ?

An untouched landscape inspires a modern, minimalistic home.

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LIAM BALL

Perched atop the cliffs of Kahakuloa, Robert and Drazena Stroj’s home seems to emerge organically from its rugged setting.

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AT HOME Top: Made of weathered ipe wood, the sprawling roof blends with the colors and textures of Kahakuloa’s cliffs.

It’s designed for use beyond mere shelter; here, no one ever says, “Get off the roof!” Bottom: Glass, wood and naturally pigmented stucco create a handsome entrance that welcomes guests into the home’s “village square.”

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Right: The kitchen is commercial grade, with a ComstockCastle cooktop, Moffat baker’s oven, Sub-Zero refrigerator and freezer, Bosch dishwasher and easy-to-clean, stainless steel countertops.

Bottom: For the living/ dining area, the Strojs chose understated pieces that complement the home’s modern aesthetic.

Tina and Aljoša designed the steel dining table that was custom-welded at a shop in Pu‘unēnē.

A projector, screen, and oversized beanbag poufs bring new meaning to family movie night.

“Wow.”

was where we wanted to be,” Drazena says. Apart from its scenic beauty, the Strojs were drawn to Kahakuloa’s promise of solitude.

So, when they discovered a steep driveway descending to a flat expanse of green overlooking the ocean, Robert and Drazena vowed they would live there someday.

In 2004, after convincing the owner of the property to sell them the nearly three-acre parcel, the Strojs started planning their dream home. Robert sketched out a rudimentary design, and, heeding the advice of his best friend, Žiga, sought the expertise of Slovenia-based architect Tina Gregoriç (Žiga’s sister), and her partner, Aljoša Dekleva.

After a flurry of phone calls, Tina and Aljoša flew to Maui, and in

LIAM BALL

That’s a word Robert and Drazena Stroj hear often—from just about everyone who visits their Kahakuloa property. “Yes, we hear that a lot,” Drazena laughs. “We’re getting used to it.”

Robert, a windsurf-sail designer, and Drazena, a ceramist, moved to Maui fifteen years ago. They settled in Kula (the rolling green hills reminded them of their native Slovenia, Robert explains), but after a few years, they were ready for a change of scenery.

“We wanted to build a house, but we weren’t sure where,” Robert recalls. “So we started looking at different parts of the island.”

One afternoon, they found themselves on the narrow, winding road leading to the high cliffs of Kahakuloa—one of West Maui’s most remote spots. “We drove around for a while and realized it

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AT HOME

Clockwise from top: Robert designed the living area’s horizontal wall cabinet and the speakers suspended from the ceiling. (A friend hand-carried the horns to Maui from Poland.) Drazena works in the kitchen under a trio of bamboo plywood lights, a gift from New Zealand artist and family friend David Trubridge.

The expanse of windows in the master bedroom captures views of the ocean.

Son Jaka plays on the roof with the family dog, Kea.

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TOP (3): TAJA KOŠIR POPOVIČ; BOTTOM: LIAM BALL

the weeks that followed, divided their time between the Kahakuloa property—where they would sit and study the landscape throughout the day—and the Strojs’ guest bedroom. There, the architects worked covertly. “They would be in the room for hours, drawing,” Drazena recalls. “They would occasionally come out and ask us questions, but we weren’t allowed to see anything until they were finished.”

Finally, the Strojs were summoned to their kitchen table, where Tina and Aljoša unveiled their concept: a single-story, 2,200-square-foot home conceived as a small village under one roof. Robert and Drazena took one look at the design and knew they’d found the home of their dreams.

Four self-contained, U-shaped “mini houses” face the ocean, three of them bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms, the fourth Robert’s office. A fifth

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Top left: The view from the master bath’s sunken tub makes every soak luxurious.

Bathroom elements, from an Italian distributor, include a Catalano raisedtrough sink and Geberit concealed-tank toilet. Top right: Custom bamboo plywood door and vanity contrast with slate flooring.

Left: The home’s side entrance takes its shape from the pitch of the roof.

unit, the garage, faces the hillside. The five units surround an open space—a “village square”—containing the kitchen, dining and living areas. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the ocean views, and to Robert’s delight, there are no parallel walls, a carryover from his initial design. (Beyond their aesthetic appeal, Robert, an audiophile, wanted the walls to help break up reflected sound.)

Arguably the home’s most striking feature (rivaled only by its sweeping ocean views) is the angular, zigzag wood roof that emulates the rugged coastline. Tina and Aljoša connected the roof to the ground so it would be a natural extension of the surrounding hillside. It also creates a visual

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LIAM BALL

AT HOME

HALE LANIAKEA - HOME OF THE WIDE-OPEN HEAVENS A truly special 15+ acre estate located on the lower leeward slopes of Haleakala at 2,450 ft. elevation above sea level. Offering ultimate privacy and spectacular breathtaking panoramic bi-coastal, outer Island and Haleakala views, this gently sloping and all-usable property is a must see! A rustic 2bedroom, 1bath 1933 caretaker cottage overlooks the gated entrance. Multiple newer detached structures including: Livingroom with fireplace; spacious bedroom; two geodesic domes, boudoir, above ground pool & music studio offers a unique opportunity of comfortable “Glamping� (Glamorous Camping), while designing an ultimate Maui estate home. 20 minute drive to sandy beaches and Kahului airport.

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LIAM BALL

barrier: Sitting on the covered lānai facing the ocean, it’s possible to imagine you are the only living creature for miles—that is, until you see a humpback whale breach in the distance. And the roof is more than just a roof. At 5,300 square feet, it’s more than twice the size of the home’s interior and doubles as an outdoor living space—or, as the architects call it, a wooden sky deck.

“The roof is supposed to be used,” Drazena explains. The Strojs take advantage of the overhead space: Their two sons, Miha and Jaka, like to fly radio-controlled airplanes off the roof; the family’s friends often gather on the rooftop to watch sunsets from the lofty vantage.

At Robert and Drazena’s insistence, the architects’ design called for natural materi-

AT HOME

LIAM BALL

Top: Throughout the home, windows appear to dissolve into the ceiling. Bottom: Robert and Drazena say “low maintenance” is their mantra; minimal furnishings create an uncluttered look.

In the guest room, low-slung pieces keep the focus on the view; gauzy curtains filter sunlight pouring in through floor-to-ceiling windows.

als throughout the home: durable ipe wood for the floors, ceilings, lānai and roof; and white concrete, coral sand, dune sand and lime incorporated into the exterior and interior walls’ stucco. Tina and Aljoša purposely left the kitchen a blank canvas for Robert, who filled the space with stainlesssteel work surfaces and custom bamboo plywood cabinetry.

And here’s what you won’t find anywhere in (or on) the home: lacquer, polyurethane coating or a single drop of paint. That was a nonnegotiable requirement, Drazena says.

“Every color you see comes from nature.”

Air-conditioning vents are conspicuously absent, too; cross-ventilation keeps the home naturally cool.

The Strojs couldn’t find a general conMaui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2018

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AT HOME

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tractor to build the house in such a remote area, so they decided to do it themselves— with a little help. “Our friend Jeff Fagerholm, a retired general contractor, helped us. We also had family members fly in to lend a hand,” Drazena says. “We were here every weekend and every evening after work, sometimes until 3 a.m. There were times where we would pitch tents inside [the unfinished house] and spend the night so we could start early the next morning.”

Large trucks couldn’t navigate the serpentine, one-lane road to deliver building materials to the construction site, so the Strojs devised a workaround: they bought an old pickup truck and made dozens of trips to and from Home Depot in Kahului.

They also arranged to have shipping containers of wood dropped off at the neighboring (and more easily accessible) Mendes Ranch; they rented a U-Haul truck to transport the wood from the ranch to their property.

The Strojs moved into the still-unfinished home in 2007; it was completed a year later. Today, the minimalist design and furnishings lend themselves to the Strojs’ lifestyle. “We wanted to make things as low maintenance as possible,” Drazena explains.

The two-car garage was converted into a workspace where Robert now designs his windsurf sails; Drazena fires her ceramics at the nearby Turnbull Studios, and Miha and Jaka are homeschooled, so all four are spared a daily commute to Kahului—

LIAM BALL

The lānai opens to this view of the ocean and Maui’s serrated north shore. All four members of the family maintain the steeply sloping lawn—“whoever feels like doing it,” Drazena jokes—using a push mower.

although, they say, it’s really not that far.

“We don’t mind the drive,” Drazena says.

“After a while, you get used to it.”

The Stroj residence has been dubbed “The Clifftop House” by many of its admirers, but Robert points out that it’s a slight misnomer. “It’s not really a cliff—it’s more of a slope,” he says with a smile. “But it really does feel like you’re on top of the world here.”

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Pacific Stainless (stainless steel in kitchen) 58500 McNulty Way, Saint Helens, Oregon 888-618-2122 • PacificStainless.com Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2018

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KAPALUA RESORT FRACTIONAL

OCEAN VIEW NEW CONSTRUCTION 2255 Aina Mahiai St • 4br/4ba • 3,400 sf • 4.74 Acres

Coconut Grove 16 • 3br/3.5ba • 2,638 sf ** Coconut Grove 22 • 3br/3.5ba • 2,625 sf ** Kapalua Bay Villas 14G3-5 • 2br/3ba • 1,697 sf Kapalua Bay Villas 17B3 • 1br/2ba • 995 sf * Kapalua Bay Villas 19G5 • 1br/1.5ba • 1,206 sf Kapalua Bay Villas 30B3,4 • 2br/3ba • 1,697 sf + Kapalua Bay Villas 38B2 • 2br/3ba • 1,447 sf Kapalua Golf Villas 15T5,6 • 1br/2ba • 972 sf Kapalua Golf Villas 19T6,7 • 2br/2ba • 1,344 sf * Kapalua Golf Villas 20T5,6 • 1br/2ba • 972 sf * Kapalua Golf Villas 23V3,4 • 2br/2ba • 1,407 sf +

Residences on Kapalua Bay 4506 • 3br/3.5ba • 2,065 sf

HAIKU HOMES OCEANFRONT NEW CONSTRUCTION 40 Hale Pili Way • 4br/4.5ba • 4,929 sf • 2 Acres

KAPALUA RESORT HOMES 222 Keoawa St • 4br/4.5ba • 4,574 sf • 6.56 Acres

KAPALUA RESORT LAND 230 Crestview Rd • 0.45Acres 600 Honokohau St • 2.01 Acres

COURTNEY M BROWN RS-56519 Realtor®(S), Vice President , ePRO CB@LuxuryRealEstateMaui.com LuxuryRealEstateMaui.com

Kapalua Golf Villas 26T8 • 1br/1.5ba • 987 sf Kapalua Ridge Villas 1513-15 • 2br/3ba • 1,778 sf Ritz Carlton Res. 1717-19 • 2br/2ba • 1,323 sf +

GLOBAL REAL ESTATE ADVISORS

808.250.0210

NAPILI & KAHANA CONDOMINIUMS Alaeloa 19 • 2br/2ba • 1,728 sf • Leasehold ** Alaeloa 40 • 2br/2ba • 1,352 sf • Leasehold *

KAANAPALI RESORT CONDOMINIUMS Honua Kai - Hokulani 150 • 3br/3ba • 2,225 sf * Kaanapali Alii 4-1002 • 1br/2 ba • 1,441 sf * Kaanapali Alii 4-802 • 1br/2 ba • 1,441 sf *

MAKENA HOMES 5520 Makena Rd • 4br/7ba • 5,398 sf ** Recently Sold */ Recently Sold Represented Buyer ** Recently Sold Represented Seller & Buyer +

ROB SHELTON RB-21133 Realtor®(B), Vice President, BIC Rob@IslandSothebysRealty.com MauiLuxuryProperties.com 808.281.4024

EACH OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED

LIVE MAUI OCEANFRONT VILLA

MAGICAL PINEAPPLE HILL

SPIRIT OF THE PLANTATION

WAILEA OCEAN VIEW HOME

Oceanfront villa on the magnificent cliffs of Waipio Bay. Gracious & gated, the 9.82 acreage embraces solitude & seclusion.

A lovely country home with simplistic comforts & conveniences.

Feel yourself drift back to Old Hawaii with ocean, sunset and Molokai views.

This well designed spacious home offers 3 bedrooms, a chef’s kitchen & a large family room overlooking the blue Pacific.

Maui's rich agricultural heritage is what makes the Ka'anapali Coffee Farms so special. Lot 30 is one of the premier lots in the subdivision, giving you forever views and sunsets year round.

Maluhia at Wailea is South Maui's leading beachfront community on the coveted Mokapu beach. Imagine resort life on a beautiful white sand beach with the quiet and luxury of a private residence.

HAIKU

KAPALUA

KA'ANAPALI

WAILEA

0 E Waipio Rd

804 Jacaranda Way

2255 Aina Mahiai St

15 Malukai Ln

MLS #: 376190

MLS #: 373462

MLS #: 373932

MLS® #: 376107

3 Beds / 2.5 Bath + Cottage

3 Beds / 2 Bath

4 Beds / 4 Bath

4 Beds / 6 Bath

2247 SqFt • 9.82 Acres

2348 SqFt • 0.25 Acres

3400 SqFt • 4.74 Acres

5331 SqFt • 10.58 Acres

$3,299,000

$1,950,000

$3,995,000

$7,895,000

®

®

®

Becky Hanna, RB-21160

Ben Willis, RS-59357

Rob Shelton, RB-21133

Sam Utley, RS-75239

808.870.0964

808.298.3498 Ben@IslandSothebysRealty.com

808.281.4024 Rob@IslandSothebysRealty.com MauiLuxuryProperties.com

808.205.5088 Sam@IslandSothebysRealty.com Sam.IslandSothebysRealty.com

Becky@IslandSothebysRealty.com

Each office is independently owned and operated.

LIVE MAUI LOCAL KNOWLEDGE, GLOBAL CONNECTIONS

KULAMANU VACANT LAND - 2 LOTS Kula | 0.25+ Acre Lots | $395,000 MLS#: 374995 & 374996

EXCEPTIONAL KULA ESTATE & GUEST HOUSE Kula | 4B/4B | $2,700,000 | MLS#: 374118

MAGNIFICENT MAUI RANCH LAND Kula | 464 Acres | $8,250,000 | MLS#: 369241

RESORT STYLE LIVING ON 2 ACRE ESTATE Makawao | 3B/4.5B | $1,990,000

EXTRAORDINARY UPCOUNTRY ESTATE Kula | 4B/4.5B | $3,900,000

SPECTACULAR KULA HOME ON 6 ACRES Kula | 3B/2.5B | $2,300,000 | MLS #: 371501

PANORAMIC UPCOUNTRY VIEWS Kula | 5.32 - 5.76 Acre Lots | $750,000 - $1,300,000 MLS # 373075, 373076, 373077

HISTORIC HOME & COTTAGE ON 60 ACRES Kula | 6B/3.5B | $3,800,000

BEAUTIFUL PASTORAL ACREAGE Kula | 1.61 Acres Vacant Land | $750,000 2 Parcels - 2 Water Meters

The Voice of Luxury Real Estate

Wendy R Peterson Realtor® (S) • HI License RS-61995 Wendy@IslandSothebysRealty.com

(808) 870.4114 EACH OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED

DINING

FOURSEASONS Our dining editor lands in Wailea and discovers the right stuff. STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

24 HOURS

I live in a rainforest, so a staycation at the Four Seasons Resort in Wailea, on Maui’s sunny south shore, is akin to a trip to a faraway destination, except it’s only an hour’s drive from home. And what better way for a foodie to celebrate her sixtieth birthday? I arrive at the hotel with my husband, Chris, eager to experience twenty-four hours of luxe dining. Luckily, we are able to check in early, not an easy feat at the busiest Four Seasons property on the planet. As I gaze from the balcony of our room over the central courtyard, I recall the autograph tree I relaxed beneath on the dunes of Wailea Beach thirty years ago, before the hotel opened in 1990. I sigh, remembering how warm the sun felt as I lay there, eyes closed, breathing in the salt air.

Chris rouses me out of my reverie with the magic words “Let’s go get a little breakfast.” It’s 9 a.m. and I feel a lightness as we follow the sunlit halls. Settees and armchairs invite a moment’s respite,

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Clockwise from top: The chance to dine al fresco adds to Duo’s charm. Brochettes of herb-marinated lamb, Seattle’s famed pork sausage, and spicy chicken roulade are ready for plating.

Quinoa cereal, fresh fruits, lox and bagels make an elegant room-service finale.

and I revel in the floral artistry, tropical gardens and simple but elegant decor.

Descending the curving staircase, we arrive at Duo, an ‘Aipono Award-winning, open-air restaurant with a double personality: à la carte breakfast and buffet service in the morning, and casual fine dining at night. A sprawling restaurant, Duo overlooks the formal swimming pool with its splashing fountains, and surf-swept Wailea Beach.

As we settle at our table, I remember that today is Friday, which means tonight is Market Night, when Duo transforms into a Brazilian churrascaria, with barbecue on the menu. Executive Chef Craig Dryhurst has promised a fun and appetite-quelling experience. With this in mind, Chris and I decide on a vegetarian breakfast from the Wellness Your Way menu—created by the chef in collaboration with on-site nutritionist Dr. Mark Emerson. Chris orders the tofu scramble

FOUR SEASONS RESORT MAUI

MEALS

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2018

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FOUR SEASONS RESORT MAUI; BOTTOM: BECKY SPEERE

DINING

Hungry for an indulgent yet guilt-free breakfast? Skinny up to a Southwestern-style tofu scramble (left) or savory Mediterranean pancakes made with chickpea flour. Find the recipe for Duo’s tofu scramble at MauiMagazine.net/tofu-scramble.

Above: At Ferraro’s, tender lobster meat graces a plate of angelhair pasta with green garbanzo beans and Meyer lemon ricotta.

Right: A dollop of creamy burrata embellishes thinly shaved slices of cantaloupe and San Daniele prosciutto.

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Five hours later, our tummies rumbling, we head to the Four Seasons’ Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante. Word is out on the island that the new chef de cuisine, Justin Purpura, is creating classic Italian dishes with a twist. We don beach cover-ups and prepare to enjoy a small bite that will hold us over until dinner. I order a glass of strawberry lemonade; Chris opts for Ahui Pua, a lively cocktail made with Jameson Irish whiskey, elderflower, and mango. Self-control is no match for our appetites’ demands. We dive into San Daniele prosciutto and melon with burrata cheese, the ribbons of prosciutto and melon perfectly juxtaposed in a marriage of sweet and salty; house-made angel-hair pasta with green garbanzo beans gilded with chunks of sweet lobster, and a dollop of house-made Meyer lemon ricotta dotted with fresh basil pesto. Fresh ‘ahi poke tops flatbread that arrives hot and toasty from the wood-burning oven, its soy, sesame, kim chee aioli and spicy jalapeños bursting with umami. We relish every bite as we share a glass of New Yorkproduced, 2014 Hermann Riesling, whose minerality, citrus, and crispness enhance both our meal and the expansive view of the Pacific Ocean. Sated, we trundle back to our room to relax . . . and call Duo to postpone our dinner reservations until 8 p.m.

Like two beached whales, Chris and I lie on the bed, watching cooking shows on network television. Since we live off the grid, with no cable or satellite TV, it’s a treat to see the latest food trends, and even whatever crazed, stress-induced cooking competitions the medium serves up. Where better to be entertained than in the lap of luxury, and for my birthday, no less?

BECKY SPEERE

with corn tortillas, and I choose the savory chickpea pancake with avocado, cherry tomatoes and almond-pepper cream. With his first bite, Chris says, “If I didn’t know it was tofu, I’d swear it was scrambled eggs.” The combination of spices and nutritional yeast was fooling the biggest carnivore! I cut into my tender pancake and dip the slice into the drizzle of creamy sauce. Protein rich and filling, the savory dish is delicious and satisfies my dietary preference: Blue Zone Mediterranean. We share a tall glass of Sophia’s Green Juice. Fresh from the juice bar, this blend of apples, celery, lemon, ginger, kale, spinach and probiotic kombucha percolates antioxidants through our bodies and energizes us for a morning of relaxation and frolicking in the pool.

Taste the Stars at Pu¯lehu, An Italian Grill Enjoy an intimate four-course dinner for two under the Maui stars. Set within the romantic koi pond garden at Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, this experience begins at sunset with an ode to Dom Perignon. Raise a glass of the exquisite champagne bearing his name and indulge in four delicious courses with hand-selected wine pairings.

To make a reservation, visit westinkaanapali.com or call 808.667.3254 Offered Thursday through Monday | Seating times are at sunset and vary with season $120 per guest | Reservations required as seating is limited.

6 Kai Ala Drive, Lāhainā, HI 96761

©2017 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Westin and their logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates. For full terms and conditions, visit westinkaanapali.com/pulehu

DINING

and milk chocolate macadamia, my favorite. As we wobble out, satiated and happy, I’m already plotting my birthday breakfast.

The next morning comes too quickly. It’s 7:30 when Chris slowly peels open the curtains. The sunny patio— the size of my first apartment in college—is so inviting that I declare, “This is where we’ll eat our final meal of the weekend!” (Twenty-two hours and counting!)

I call in the order and within the hour, a spiffily dressed room-service attendant wheels in a cart laden with house-made bagels, lox and dill cream cheese, quinoa, pumpkin-seed and cranberry cereal, fresh-squeezed orange juice, and a silver carafe of hot coffee. And the croissant. Tender. Buttery. As we savor our breakfast on the lānai of our beautiful room, I think to myself, “The big 6-0 is not so bad after all, if you can spend it being pampered by the staff at the Four Seasons Maui. In fact, I may have to come back in a year and do it all over again.”

Bring a gaucho-sized appetite to Four Seasons’ Market Night. Juicy barbecued meats and abundant salads come with side dishes like flash-fried Brussels sprouts with marinated fruits and sherry, and French-style aligot potato purée with Gruyere cheese, confit garlic and crème fraiche. Yum!

FOUR SEASONS RESORT MAUI

By 8 o’clock, dressed, primped, and primed for eating, we eagerly return to Duo, which now wears its steakhouse identity. Servers dash by with shiny sword-like skewers of grilled chunks of beef, lamb chops, and bacon-wrapped chicken. Our server, Brendan, advises us not to overdo on the salad bar, but to save room, instead, for the grill’s bounty. We try to heed his warning, but somehow end up with plates brimming with salads, the choices too good to pass up: hearts of palm with orange and shrimp, cauliflower “couscous tabouleh” tossed with a lemon vinaigrette, and roastedherb-marinated veggies with goat cheese and pine nuts.

Wailea Caipirinha, Duo’s signature Brazilian cocktail, is a worthy match for our meal, with its bright notes of cachaça, Maui limes and mint. Chris is in carnivore la-la land as skewers of Brazilian barbecue, food of the gauchos (nomadic horsemen) of southern Brazil, arrive at our table throughout the evening: baconwrapped chicken glazed in jalapeño jam, Uli’s Seattle artisan sausage flown in special for the grill, lavender-scented lamb chops, rotisserie picanha (chunks of flavorful sirloin cap) with Duo’s special spice rub, and spit-roasted pineapple with black pepper, cinnamon and brown sugar. Brendan assures us that the meal wouldn’t be complete without a sweet ending, and since it is my birthday, we manage, between the pair of us, to devour three slices of tarts: lemon meringue, vanilla crème brûlée,

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F L E E T W O O D ’ S R E S TA U R A N T & B A R F L E E T W O O D ’ S G E N E R A L S TO R E M A U I & M O R R I S O N H O T E L G A L L E R Y

FOLLOW US AROUND, WE DON’T MIND

Let Us Make Memories For You

LAHAINA,

MAUI

Dining Highlights

Last issue, we shared some of our favorite East Maui breakfast spots. If it dawned on you that West Maui must have great breakfast locations, too, you’ll be pleased to know we agree. Here’s a second helping of venues that will keep your sunny side up.

Memorabilia from Lahaina’s whaling days add nautical charm to Pioneer Inn’s private dining room. Below: The veggie eggs Benedict is a treat for sailors and landlubbers alike.

BREAKFAST ON THE SUNSET SIDE STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar

The Sea House Restaurant

Haleakalā never looks more yummy than sitting on my plate at Sea House Restaurant. Named after Maui’s highest mountain, the ovenbaked custard pancake is topped with cinnamon brown sugar, bananas (often harvested on the grounds of Nāpili Kai Resort) and chunks of sweet Maui Gold pineapple. It takes the kitchen about twenty minutes to bake this fluffy delight, but as my mother

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Kalua pork gives a Hawaiian accent to huevos rancheros in the Sea House Restaurant’s Honolua breakfast.

always said, “Good things are worth waiting for.” If I’m feeling saucy, I’ll go for Chef Alex Stanislaw’s Hawaiian-style huevos rancheros: two eggs cooked any way you like, atop kalua pork or veggies, with crispy fried tortillas. Four toppings—salsa verde, salsa roja, sour cream, and a sublime warm black bean and corn chili—add the final zing. With views of Nāpili Bay from every table, and servers with true aloha, you can’t go wrong at Sea House. Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Highway, Nāpili, 669-1500

Cane & Canoe

The coconut wireless was buzzing: Chef Chris Damskey, formerly of Alan Wong’s Amasia restaurant, and more recently of ‘Ulu Ocean Grill at the Four Seasons Hualalai, was coming back to Maui. The combination of his return, some menu changes, and Pineapple Grill

TOP (2): JOSE MORALES; RIGHT: BECKY SPEERE

I moved to Maui in 1983, and still remember my first meal in sleepy Lahaina. Deep-sea fishing was on our agenda, so the obvious choice for breakfast was Pioneer Inn, just a stone’s throw from the harbor.

Built in 1901, the inn is the longest continuously operating hotel in Hawai‘i. Hollywood legends Katherine Hepburn and Spencer Tracy stayed here while Tracy was shooting the 1961 film The Devil at 4 O’Clock. Ever since my own debut appearance at Pioneer Inn, I’ve order the same dish each time: lox and a toasted bagel with cream cheese, capers, onions, a thick slice of tomato, and a cup of piping hot Maui coffee. If I have company, I also share the plate-sized macadamia nut pancakes. One day I’ll break down and try the Mowie Wowie three-egg omelette with jack cheese, pineapple and Portuguese sausage; or the classic loco moco with Maui Cattle Co. beef on rice with eggs and gravy. If I’m not going out on the water, I’ll allow myself a Bloody Mary, as well. With a sweet-and-salty spice rim, it’s the perfect accompaniment to lox and bagel; plus the celery stick is a healthy, fiber-filled addition. I’ll bet Tracy and Hepburn would approve! 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina, 661-3636

Eat Mauka Makai at Maui’s Newest Resort Inspired by island traditions and contemporary culinary arts, Mauka Makai highlights fresh ingredients sourced from the mountain (mauka) to the sea (makai). In the evening, start with Chef Ikaika Manaku’s signature crispy pork and shichimi seared ‘ahi with house-made Maui onion jam, Yamasa caramel sauce and Sriracha honey. Popular entrées include natural prime ribeye with tempura black pepper Kaua‘i prawns and Kā‘anapali horseradish potato, and butter poached local lobster with edamame pea risotto. For dessert, try the liliko‘i Surfing Goat Dairy cheesecake to complete your culinary journey on a sweet, satisfying note. Breakfast buffet and a la carte menu also available daily.

To make a reservation, visit westinnanea.com/maukamakai or call 808.662.6400 Open Daily 6:30 to 10:30 a.m. | 5:30 to 9:00 p.m.

45 Kai Malina Parkway, Kā‘anapali, Maui

©2017 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Westin and their logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates. For full terms and conditions, visit westin.com/nanea

Dining Highlights

Top right: With wagyu beef, truffle gravy, mushrooms and caramelized Maui onion, Cane & Canoe’s steak and eggs are an indulgent delight.

Below: Crispy chicken breasts alternate with mini Belgian waffles in a Down the Hatch breakfast that’s everything it’s stacked up to be.

alum Robert Barrera as new chef de cuisine, I knew that the latest iteration of Cane & Canoe would be great. I gather friends and head to Kapalua, where a family-style tasting ensues. We make short work of the Australian wagyu steak and eggs, served with first-of-the-season truffle gravy brimming with caramelized Maui onion and mushrooms. I can’t get enough of the sublimely sweet and creamy parsnip purée, served in lieu of potatoes. Another offering, tender slices of grilled pork belly and poached eggs atop spinach salad, comes napped with a bright yet delicate liliko‘i vinaigrette.

The rich yolks meld with the dressing, creating an over-the-top umaminess of sweet fruit, salt and perfect acidity. Fresh juices and a make-your-own Bloody Mary bar with fresh smoked bacon, celery and other accoutrements round out the brunch menu.

Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Drive, Kapalua, 662-6681

Down the Hatch

As I fill my coffee mug at the self-service station, a woman next to me bellows, “This is the best place to eat! I’ve eaten here lunch and dinner, and twice for breakfast! The food is great! Apparently Others are also feeling the love; the order line has doubled

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in the last minute. I grab a fork and knife and make my way to a table in the spacious restaurant and bar (yes, the bar is open). Soon a towering dish of chicken and waffles, conveyed by one of the well-trained staff, lands on the table in front of me and I am giddy with delight. A stick of rosemary skewers the four-inch Belgian waffles stacked four-high and layered with golden brown, crispy-battered chicken breast.

Maple syrup, buttermilk dressing and spicy chipotle aioli accompany the dish. Is it as good as it looks? Better! Get down the hatch and eat on. The Wharf Cinemas Center, 658 Front Street, Lahaina, 661-4900

a‘a Roots Maui

A‘a Roots’ staff proudly notes that this is the only true vegan restaurant on Maui.

What sets it apart is that it is bee free: a‘a uses no honey in its recipes; hence, no bees were harmed in preparing the food and juices here. So sidle up to the counter and place your order for some of the best veggie eats around. Owner-manager Maria Maither, known for her years of work at the Honokōwai Farmers Market, has partnered with Chef Veronica Hood to create light and fresh cuisine incorporating produce from Maui’s farms. Grammy Award-winning musician and farmer George Kahumoku and Waikapū/Moloka‘i-based Kumu Farms provide much of the organically grown, high-quality, just-harvested produce that Chef Veronica turns into “naked burritos” paired with fruit, herbs and nut-based dressings; and Buddha bowls stacked high—two of my faves. Maither says, “We were blessed by the outpouring of the community. We’d find wooden wall hangings and shelving and Balinese-style mirrors, wrapped in carved teakwood, at our door when we were building out the cafe.”

Open 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. Make a beeline over! Nāpili Plaza Shopping Center, 5095 Nāpilihau Street, Nāpili, 298-2499

TOP LEFT: MIEKO HORIKOSHI; TOP RIGHT & BOTTOM: BECKY SPEERE

Breakfast options at a‘a Roots include the Dragon açai bowl with pitaya, berries, coconut and bananas; Naked Burrito with rice and beans, salsa, and cashew crema; and this smoothie of the day with mango, ginger, and turmeric.

STEAKS, SEAFOOD AND SUSHI Proudly serving Hawai‘i’s freshest, locally-grown products coupled with the exotic flavors of the Pacific Rim. Dine indoors or outside, with spectacular views of the famed Ka‘anapali Beach or watch as creative sushi is rolled to order in the chic Sushi Lounge.

Enjoy live music and happy hour every evening in the lively bar and lounge.

HAPPY HOUR: 5:00PM - 6:00PM | DINING ROOM & SUSHI LOUNGE: 5:30PM - 9:30PM AT HYATT REGENCY MAUI RESORT AND SPA, KA’ANAPALI 200 NOHEA KAI DRIVE | WWW.JAPENGOMAUI.COM | 808 667 4727 GOLD BEST ASIAN CUISINE GOLD BEST PACIFIC RIM CUISINE SILVER BEST SUSHI

The trademark HYATT and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2018 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved. TA-161-564-6720-01

Becky’s Backyard

STUCK ON KIAWE If you frequent Hawai‘i’s tree-lined beaches as much as my family does, it’s likely you’ve seen someone barefooting it down to the water, suddenly stopping, crying out and hopping on one foot. Maybe you’ve been that unlucky person who just got punctured by a kiawe thorn hidden in the retreating sandy wash or the deep sand dune. Those inch-long impalers can penetrate rubber slippers and boots, and pierce the leathery sole of even the toughest local’s foot.

Introduced here in 1828, and spread via cattle and goats’ digestive tracks, kiawe trees also produce bean pods that island ranchers used to harvest for cattle feed.

I’ve always had a healthy respect for those menacing thorns, but after spending some time with Sunny Savage—an advocate

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for wild-plant foraging and owner of the mobile Savage Kitchen—I’ve a new admiration for the beans’ nutritious properties and tasty possibilities.

Savage says, “Prior to moving to Hawai‘i, I harvested mesquite pods in Arizona; they are in the same family as kiawe. When I arrived on Maui in 2008, I remember having my mind blown with how much kiawe grew here. I started harvesting right away, but wasn’t making much flour on my own. I was just cooking it into tea and soup stocks.”

With a gentle smile, Sunny says, “It’s what I fed my son Zeb when he was a baby. I bought Waianae Gold kiawe flour and all I had to do was add water, broth or coconut milk. I felt empowered . . . here was a triedand-true, healthy food for my son.”

Clockwise from top left: Kiawe trees line many of the beaches on Maui’s southern coast. Forager and TV personality Sunny Savage displays a harvest of dry kiawe pods and the tree’s feathery leaves. Take care when walking near kiawe trees, whose formidable thorns may be hidden in the sand.

LEFT & BOTTOM: FOREST & KIM STARR; TOP RIGHT: SAELYN SAVAGE

STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

Celebrating 25 years of aloha at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua.

Enjoy newly transformed guest rooms and suites with decor embracing Maui's natural beauty and rich culture. Our AAA-Five Diamond resort also features an enhanced lobby experience, the new Kai Cafe and more. For reservations, please visit ritzcarlton.com/kapalua.

. Š2017 The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L.L.C.

Kiawe Cooler Serves 6–10 INGREDIENTS 4 cups kiawe pods, washed well and broken into 2-inch pieces 10 cups water 2 tablespoons lemon or orange rind, no pith 6 wild cinnamon leaves, or 1 cinnamon stick 6 wild allspice leaves, or ¼ teaspoon allspice kiawe honey or coconut sugar to taste peel of one organic pineapple (optional) lemon or orange twist for garnish PROCEDURE In a bowl of water, soak pods, citrus rind, and (if using) pineapple rind overnight (roughly eight hours) in fridge. Place the mixture in a pot and cook on lowest heat setting, adding allspice and cinnamon. Do not allow liquid to boil. Simmer for an hour and a half and strain. Compost or discard solids.

Add honey or coconut sugar (vegan) to taste. Cool in refrigerator before serving.

Garnish with a twist of citrus rind. Enjoy!

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She credits Vince Dodge, of Waianae Gold, for being a proponent and leader in kiawe education and flour production since 2006. “We’re lucky to have someone like him to champion the cause.” I ask Sunny whether the bean could become a major food source for people, and she replies, “It could feed an army! The yield [of flour from milled pods] is nearly 100 percent. It’s high in protein [100 grams of kiawe flour contain 8 percent of the recommended daily allowance] and minerals like magnesium and potassium.”

Knowing what to harvest is paramount, as aflatoxin, a carcinogen produced by molds like Aspergillus flavus and Aspergillus parasiticus, may be present under damp and humid conditions.

Once you know what to look for in a “good bean,” it’s easy to identify. There are also labs that can test for aflatoxin levels. If you’d rather not harvest the pods yourself, you may order the flour from Waianae Gold at WaianaeGold. com or DesertHarvesters.org.

Our thanks to Sunny Savage for sharing her recipe for this kiawe cooler.

SUNNY SAVAGE

Becky’s Backyard

dining guide

See More Listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

B = Breakfast BR = Brunch  L = Lunch  D = Dinner N = Dinner past 9 p.m.  RR = Reservation recommended $ = Average entrée under $15 $$ = Under $25 $$$ = Under $40  $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2017

WEST SIDE A Fianco, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667. Sale Pepe’s sister restaurant is una bellezza! Salads, panini, and thin-crust pizza are made traditionally under Chef Michele’s watchful eyes. Italian. L. $–$$

Black Rock Kitchen & Lounge, Sheraton Maui, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808-921-4600.

Grilled catch of the day comes with coconut Moloka‘i purple sweet potato and ginger-spiced broccolini glazed with yuzu brown butter. The mac-nut brittle bar is to die for. ‘Ohana (family-style) dining available. Kidfriendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, D. $$$

Cliff Dive Grill, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031.

Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$ Cool Cat Café, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908.

Burgers, chicken, fish and more, all in a fifties-diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $

WEST SI Aloha Mixed Plate, 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322. Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate.

L, D, N. $

Breakwall Shave Ice, The Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900. Cool off with one of the best snow cones on Maui, and discover your favorite island flavor. Treats. $

Auntie’s Kitchen, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200.

Saimin, burgers and fresh-fish plate lunches mingle with other local fare. Local Mixed Plate. B, L, D. $–$$

Cane & Canoe, Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681. An impressive steak program features filet mignon, American Wagyu rib-eye, and Australian lamb chops. Modern, plantation-style bar offers light fare and full island-inspired restaurant menu. Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$–$$$$

The Banyan Tree, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096. Hokkaido seared scallops with smoked pork belly. Kula corn and farro risotto with Hāmākua mushroom. Smoked rib-eye steak, Ali‘i mushrooms and white cheddar potatoes. Need we say more? Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$

Choice Health Bar, 1087 Limahana Pl., Lahaina, 661-7711. Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are all made with fresh local ingredients. Daily specials, and an epic entrée with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red-pepper sesame sauce.

American. B, L. $

Down the Hatch, The Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900. Mermaid fries with cheese, bacon, ranch dressing and lava sauce; towering shrimp cocktails; fresh island fish; and lots of southern aloha . . . great shave ice, too! (See Breakwall’s listing.) Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, N, RR. $$

Drums of the Pacific, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234. Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly.

Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Duke’s, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900. Imagine Old Hawai‘i at this open-air beach house while dining on crab-andmacadamia-nut wontons or prime rib. Kid-friendly.

American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$ The Feast at Lele, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 6675353. This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$

As Seen on

Guy Fieri’s “Triple D”

Fleetwood’s on Front St., 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. Pacific oysters with a tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome, and a onepound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. Bar opens 2 p.m.

American/British Pub Food. D. $$–$$$$ Foodland, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0975.

Don’t let the fact that it’s a supermarket fool you.

From spicy ‘ahi and sesame shoyu octopus, to Korean shredded dried ika (squid), these poke choices will boggle your mind. But order up! Folks are waiting in line behind you! Second West Maui location: 345 Keawe St., Lahaina, 662-7088. Poke. $ Frida’s Mexican Beach House, 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287. Chalupas, fresh chili agua ‘ahi, and short-rib tacos served with ocean views and fresh mixology. Latin-inspired. L, D. $–$$ The Gazebo, Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-5621. Mac-nut pancakes, French toast and legendary fried rice served with an ocean view. Kid-friendly. American. B, L. $ Honu Seafood & Pizza, 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390. Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$

Azeka Place, Mauka

(808) 891-MISO (6476)

1279 South Kihei Rd. #108, Kihei 104

MauiMagazine.net

MisoPhat.com

Hula Grill, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636. Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy kiawe-grilled ono on fresh spinach,

lahaina fried soup homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music.

Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$ Japengo, Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4796. Authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood. Steak, too! Japanese. D, N. $$$ Joey’s Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474. Try the braised short-rib pho on rice noodles, corn and sweet peppers in rich ginger beef broth. Second West Maui location: Nāpili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$

yakitori

pahole salad

star udon

garlic noodles

singapore noodles

steamed pork buns hapa ramen

ahi avo pad thai

sake cocktails

Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0011. Dine in casual comfort with the Tiki Restaurant’s full-service menu, or challenge yourself to try all the offerings at the award-winning Sunday brunch. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$

IDE

Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room, Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 100 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6677733. From the people who brought Cheeseburger in Paradise to Lahaina comes this venue serving burgers, sandwiches, pizzas and salads. Dinner adds steak, fresh fish and pasta. Thirty wines under $30 a bottle. American. D. $–$$ Kai Sushi, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. Chef Tadashi Yoshino and his team work sushi magic. Large selection of Japanese saké. Sushi. D. $$$

Lahaina Grill, 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117. Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad; Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with vanilla-bean jasmine rice; or the famous Kona coffee roasted rack of lamb with coffee-cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selections and cocktails. American/Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495. Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors like sesame crusted seared ‘ahi with shiitake mushroom butter soy sauce; and Korean gochujang risotto with salt-and-peppah mahi. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D, N. $$ Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600. The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw, and ice-cold beer or just-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance. After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie! American. B, L, D. $ Local Boys Shave Ice, 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476. This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. Also see South Shore listing. Treats. $

Longhi’s, 888 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2288. For breakfast at this open-air landmark, try the eggs Benedict on thick toasted French bread. For dinner, use the jalapeño cheese bread to sop up sauce served with the shrimp Longhi. Italian. B, L, D. $$$–$$$$ Maui Sugar Shop, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 662-0033.

Delectable gluten-free, paleo and vegan delights like quiches, Belgian waffles, muffins, cakes and more.

Bakery/Café. B, L. $ Mauka Makai, Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6400. Expect the freshest fish, beef and lamb, vegetable sautés, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2018

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WEST SIDE

and island-inspired desserts at this restaurant that celebrates the fishing and farming cultures of ancient Hawai‘i. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$

Merriman’s Kapalua, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 669-6400. Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create the most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, RR. $$–$$$$

2015

2016

BEST ITALIAN BEST NEW RESTAURANT

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Miso Phat Sushi, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana, 669-9010. See South Side listing.

BEST ITALIAN

Monkeypod Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763. See South Side listing.

Myths of Maui, Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9119. Live music, Polynesian dance, and an island-inspired buffet complete with kalua pig unearthed from the imu. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$ Old Lāhaina Lū‘au, 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-1998. Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian.

Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance.

Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$

Your VIP Pass to Maui’s best food, drinks & farms! Take in the scenery while we introduce you to local brewers, winemakers, distillers, coffee roasters, farmers and chefs!

Pacific’O, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341.

Decadent fish tacos and bahn mi sandwiches are memorable lunch fare. For dinner, try the lobster ravioli or coconut-dusted mahi with Thai lemongrass-peanut sauce on black mochi rice. Spectacular oceanfront dining. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$

DRINK | EAT | EXPLORE 808.633.1801 • MAUICRAFTTOURS.COM

Pineapple Grill, 200 Kapalua Dr. Kapalua, 6699600. You don’t have to golf to eat here! Try the breakfast chorizo and egg burrito smothered in green chiles and cheddar cheese, or a satisfying grilled mahimahi dinner with glazed asparagus, pickled tomatoes and salsa verde. Expansive offering of reasonably priced wine and beer. B, L, D. $–$$$ Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636. Views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, D. $–$$

2015 BEST ITALIAN BEST NEW RESTAURANT

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Pizza Paradiso Mediterranean Grill, 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929. Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$

Plantation House Restaurant, 2000 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua, 669-6299. Rock your inner Cajun with ‘Aipono 2017 Chef of the Year Jojo Vasquez’s Kaua‘i shrimp ètouffée, prepared with Adoboloco’s Hamajang hot sauce and scallion-polenta cake with lime crème. Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, L, D. $$$ Prison Street Pizza, 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332. East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Captivating! Italian/Pizza. L, D. $ Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with chocolate almond cake and amarena gelato. Closed Tues–Wed. Italian. D. $$$

Relish Burger Bistro, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525.

All-natural Kobe beef burgers, fish sandwiches, salads with island greens, and huli huli grilled chicken breast, served poolside in an open-air setting. Kid-friendly.

American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $$–$$$

Urban & hip neighborhood gathering place serving Italian comfort food.

Located in the heart of Kapalua Resort.

; CRAFT COCKTAILS ; CRAFT TAP BEERS ; ITALIAN INSPIRED WINE SELECTIONS DINNER: 5:30PM TO CLOSING LATE NIGHT BAR & MENU: UNTIL 11PM 808-667-CIAO (2426) TAVERNAMAUI.COM 2000 VILLAGE ROAD KAPALUA RESORT

BEST NEW RESTAURANT Gold

BEST BAR Gold

BEST ITALIAN Silver

Just steps from the water’s edge.

Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!

Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com

The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours.

505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com

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dining guide “Treat your friends like family &

your family like friends” restaurant draws lines late into the night. Small and

Relish Oceanside, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525.

Fried rice with Asian-style braised beef, fresh mahi atop luscious and cheesy risotto, and a great kale salad with chunky macadamia nuts. World-class mixology by Fred Sconfienza. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$-$$$

—Big Manoli

action-packed, this classy sushi bar is the place to try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$

nale: espresso with grappa. Beginning to end, Taverna is a dining heaven. Great wine, cocktails, and exotic craft beer. Italian. D. $$–$$$

WEST SIDE Roy’s, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 6696999. At lunch, line up for the best burger on Maui.

For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled ginger.

Save room for the signature Melting Hot Dark Chocolate Soufflé. Pacific Rim. L, D. $$–$$$$

Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Lahaina Center, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 661-8815. Steaks worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earn the chain loyal fans. This venue doesn’t stray from the flock. Several tables overlook the harbor. American. D, N. $$$$ Sale Pepe, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667.

Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta like Chef Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian/Pizza. D. $$ Sangrita Grill + Cantina, Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 662-6000. South of the Border goes upper crust with queso fundido, chimichangas, enchilada and chile relleno plates, awardwinning rotisserie chicken, and happy hour with muchas buenas prices! Mexican. L, D. $–$$ Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286. D.K. Kodama’s

“Treat your friends like family & Teddy’s Bigger like Burgers, 335 family Keawe St., Layourhaina, family friends” “Treat your friends like & 661-9111. The staff hand-pat the burgers, The Sea House Restaurant, Nāpili Kai Beach —Big Manoli your family like friends” charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner

Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500.

Start your day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp while the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammywinner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack-key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$

—Big Manoli ambiance. Follow their food truck on Facebook.

Kidfriendly. American. L, D. $

“Treat your friends like family & Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 your family like friends” Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600. Start with

Son’z Steakhouse, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Moroccanspiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, linecaught mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/ Steak. D, N. $$$$

—Big Manoli Oyster Dan—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko— then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate.

Japanese/Steak. D, RR. $$$

“Treat your friends like family & your Tiki Tikifamily Thai Cuisinelike 2, 658friends” Front St., Lahaina,

Star Noodle, 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 6675400. Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$ Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors, 226 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 667-9000. Head to the refrigerated section for a huge selection of fresh ‘ahi poke prepared in Maui’s ethnic flavors of the rainbow: Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Hawaiian, plus poke bowls made to order. Poke. $ Taverna, 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 6672426. House-made pastas, agrodolce-style fish of the day, and Italian desserts that stand up to the grand fi-

—Big Manoli 661-9911/283-5202. Filet mignon in creamy Thai chili sauce, chicken panang curry, and many vegetarian selections. Coconut mango sticky rice pudding will plunk you into tropical heaven. Thai. L, D. $–$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 790 Front St., Lahaina. Homemade tropical-flavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Second West Maui location: Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. Kid-friendly.

Treats. $ ‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos.

Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, D. $$$

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OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT

OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT Happy Hour From 3 pm - 6 pm & 9 pm - 12 am | 100 Wailea Ike Drive Happy Hour From 3 pm - 6 pm & 9 pm - 12 am | 100 Wailea Ike Drive Located across from the Wailea Blue Golf Course Pro Shop Located across from the Wailea Blue Golf Course Pro Shop OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT TAKEOUT & DELIVERY: 808.874.7499

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More listings:MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide listings: MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525.

Fire dancers ignite the excitement, and hula dancers sway as you enjoy a Polynesian feast. Kid-friendly.

Lū‘au. D. RR. $$$$

SOUTH SHORE 1054 Togoshi, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 868--0307.

Chef Manabu’s twenty-five years as a sushi chef— two of them as head chef at Morimoto’s Maui—shine through in fresh sashimi and sushi. Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of each month. Sushi. D. $-$$ Amigo’s, 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9952. See West Side listing.

drinks, baked goods and house-made gelato, too.

American/Italian. B, L, D. $$ Coconuts Fish Café, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979. Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. Additional location: Kama‘ole Shopping Center, 2463 S. Kīhei Rd. American. L, D. $$ Cow Pig Bun, 535 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 8758100. If a Brandt premium beef burger slathered in foie gras butter, smoky bourbon-bacon jam and blue cheese makes you want to say, “Moo!” this is the place. Maui-style Comfort Food. L, D, N. $$ Duo, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Duo reinvents the classic “surf-n-turf.” Japanese Kobe tenderloin (the real thing) and dry-aged rib eye are a carnivore’s delight. Choose a strong wine to match your meat’s performance. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$$$

5 Palms Restaurant, Mana Kai Resort, 2960 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2607. Ocean waves sweeping the shore enhance your dining experience, as Chef Raul navigates the culinary rim of the Pacific. Lobster eggs Benedict for breakfast, fish tacos for lunch, and seafood and pastas served with style. Kid-friendly.

Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$ Foodland, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9350.

See West Side listing. Poke. $ Fork & Salad, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8793675. Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, gluten- and dairy-free options. International. L, D. $

SOUTH SHORE Bistro Molokini, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh, local ingredients and served up in this casual, open-air eatery. Kid-friendly.

American. L, D. $$$

Botero Bar, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures that surround it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays—when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20.

L, D, N. $ Caffe Ciao Deli, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Healthy vegetarian fare, deli sandwiches and spectacular desserts abound at this take-out/eat-in deli. Espresso

Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711. What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked for fifteen hours over kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans, and cabbage slaws: one sweet-tart, one with blue cheese and apples. American. D. $–$$ Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. For lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, D. $$$$

Four Seasons Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. D, N, RR. $$$$

Humble Market Kitchin, Wailea Marriott, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655. Chef Roy Yamaguchi hits it out of the ballpark with kampachi crudo, seasonal Goose Point oysters, roasted Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, tender beef short ribs, and even saimin. Perfect. Pacific Regional. B, D. $–$$$

Humuhumu, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Carpaccio of Japanese hamachi with celery-ginger shaved ice, watermelon salad with Surfing Goat Dairy cheese, crispy mahimahi on forbidden rice . . . love from first bite to last. Pacific Rim. D. $$$$

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dining guide Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Start with grilled Wagyu hanger steak on green papaya salad, then charred octopus with local goat cheese. Next, Kona abalone on creamy risotto, or a modern interpretation of chicken and waffles. There’s a curated wine list with sommeliers to guide you in pairings, and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$

era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut) and macadamia-nut ice cream. Treats. $

dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and banana-cream pie.

Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, N. $$

SOUTH SHORE Kamana Kitchen, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8797888. Eye-catching art and Indian relics are prelude to a menu highlighting exotic spices lovingly blended from family recipes. Lunch buffet. Indian. L. D. $–$$ Kihei Caffe, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8792230. Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.? Head down to this surfer hangout and load up on banana mac-nut pancakes, loco moco, and a cuppa joe. Café. B, L. $–$$

Da Kitchen, Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782. The Hawaiian plate feeds three normal appetites or one sumo-size eater. Plate-lunch favorites like chicken katsu, tempura fish, and Korean mixed plate won’t leave you wanting. Kid-friendly.

Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $ Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock”: three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, D. RR. $$$ Local Boys Shave Ice, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779. How to chill out in the Islands? Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with plantation-

Longhi’s Wailea, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883. Enjoy a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemonfeta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. B, L, D. $$$

Luana, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210. This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kalua-pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce, and lomilomi tomato paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$ Manoli’s Pizza Company, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499. Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppini or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna. Italian/Pizza. L, D, N. $$

Matteo’s Osteria, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466. Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade.

Italian. L, D. $$–$$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8916476. Sushi served on site, to go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! Japanese. L, D. $$ Monkeypod Kitchen, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322. Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For

DINNER SHOULD BE AN EXPERIENCE Maui’s most innovative, open kitchen dining experience takes place in Andaz Maui’s signature restaurant, Ka’ana Kitchen.

While serving the freshest farm-table ingredients, Ka’ana Kitchen also has experiences for the true foodie, featuring: Bitters & Bites, a 3 course dining experience paired with original cocktails to your taste, and our classic Chef’s Table experience with the option of wine pairings from our in-house sommelier.

CALL US at +1 808 243 4750 to book your reservation.

The trademarks Andaz® and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. © 2017 Hyatt Corporation.

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Morimoto Maui, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Iron Chef’s Masaharu Morimoto offers signature and Maui-centric dishes like rib-eye beef burgers and lobster roll sandwiches. Dinner catches fire with prix fixe omakase.

Handcrafted mixology and a dazzling selection of sakés. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $$$$

Mulligans on the Blue, 100 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 874-1131. Maui’s only Irish-owned pub serves up fish and chips, grilled bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie. Or try the chopped salad with bacon, blue cheese and tomatoes. Guinness poured properly, great music to get you foot-stompin’ happy, and sports-bar action, too. Sláinte! Irish. L, D, N. $–$$$

Nalu’s South Shore Grill, Azeka Shopping Center, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650. Generous portions and locally sourced ingredients served with aloha. ‘Ahi club with smoked bacon, and fresh fish and chips will have you coming back for more.

Burgers? Yes! American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ Nick’s Fishmarket, Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-7224. Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. D, RR. $$$$ Nutcharee’s Thai Food, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840. The flavors of Thailand never get

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OUTH SHOR

boring when Nutcharee is cooking! Start with ‘ahi laab tartare salad, or the popular crispy fish mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai.

L, D. $–$$ Ono Gelato Kīhei & The Maui Sandwich Shack Cafe, Azeka Shopping Center, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 495-0287. Gelato heaven—and that’s not all.

Get your deli fix at this hidden gem: pastrami piled high on marbled rye, and salad wraps to satisfy everyone in your party. Deli/Treats. L, D, $–$$ Piko Café and Restaurant, 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 793-2671. Fried rice or buttermilk pancakes for breakfast, bento lunches for the beach, plus dry mein, waffle dogs, burgers, katsu, killer salads, and a signature dessert: haupia-chia-ube pudding. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L. $ The Pint & Cork, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 727-2038. The best mac-and-cheese with black truffles, deviled eggs Rockefeller, poke bowls and burgers.

International. B (Sat & Sun), L, D, N. $–$$ Pizza Madness,1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 2709888. This family-style restaurant serves Cobb salad, hot and cold deli sandwiches with chips and a pickle, some of the best pizza this side of the Pacific, and pasta, too. Italian/Pizza L, D. $–$$ The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224. Produce from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients you’ll find in any restaurant.

Add Chef Zach Sato’s culinary talents and a gorgeous outdoor setting, and you have a night made in heaven.

European-inspired. D, N. $$-$$$$ Roasted Chiles, Azeka Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357. Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, D. $–$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8948880. See West Side listing.

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004. See West Side listing.

Sarento’s on the Beach, 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555. Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, D. RR. $–$$$ Seascape Restaurant, Maui Ocean Center, 192 S. Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7068. Located next to an award-winning aquarium, Seascape serves up great harbor views with a side of sweet aloha.

Mahimahi sandwiches with fresh cabbage slaw, halfpound burgers and veggie selections. Save room for the Maui Mud Pie: coffee ice cream topped with fudge, on a buttery cookie-crumb crust. American. L (daily), D (Sat/Sun only). $$–$$$ Shearwater Tavern, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 7932324. Gastropub food and drink have never been finer, as partners D.K. Kodama and Chuck Furuya tag team the bar and kitchen to create a venue worthy of your attention. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$ Spago, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Wolfgang Puck’s ‘ōpakapaka Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2018

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presents the

‘aipono wine dinner series The ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series brings you fine wines paired with superb cuisine at surprisingly reasonable prices. Proceeds benefit UH–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program.

To sign up for the ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series mailing list, visit MauiMagazine.net or call 808.242.8331.

An exquisite wine showcase created by Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants

DRINK | LEARN | EAT | SUPPORT The next wine dinner will be hosted by:

Featuring:

Turley Wine Cellars

The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua One Ritz-Carlton Drive, Kapalua Tuesday, Feb 6 5:30 pm Reservations: 808-665-7089 $125 per person $25 from each dinner supports UH–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program.

As stewards of some of California’s oldest vineyards, Turley produces wines that reflect heritage, history and tradition.

Some of the vines are from the 1850s and still producing fruit. Turley wines are generous, unique, and deliver much more than expected—like the people who make the wine.

Chef Alvin Savella shares his Hawaiian culture and his passion for food through innovative dishes that highlight local ingredients—some from the resort’s abundant organic garden. Savella honed his craft in Southern California, most notably at Jer-ne Restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton, Marina del Rey, before returning to the Islands.

Under his leadership, The Banyan Tree was recently awarded AAA’s esteemed Four Diamond rating.

Known for farm-to-fork, garden-to-glass culinary concepts, the restaurant envelops guests in Hawaiian ambiance, thoughtful architecture and breathtaking ocean views.

dining guide

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sashimi and perfectly seared Kobe beef match the trendsetting wine list note for note. Spectacular sunsets may as well be on the menu. Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$

Upcountry sister, adding paella for two, fresh-cut French fries, and burrata Caprese to the menu.

Mediterranean. L, D. $-$$

Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors, 91 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 891-2420. See West Side listing. Poke. $

Café O’Lei, The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073. Mac-nut-crusted chicken, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites, served beside a links-style golf course overlooking West Maui’s mountain. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$

The Mill House at Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333.

Dine at the coffee shop, restaurant, or weekend chef’s table, and discover some of Maui’s most creative culinary fare, from creamy coconut jook with Kula Farm green beans, to beef ragu gnocchi with thyme curd. Chef Jeff Scheer’s harmony of flavors will woo you back for more. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $–$$$

Da Kitchen, Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782. See South Shore listing.

Poi by the Pound, 430 Kele St., Kahului, 283-9381.

Eat like a local. Hawaiian. B, L, D. $

Farmacy Health Bar, 12 Market St., Wailuku, 866-4312. Pono (excellence) perfectly describes their pono bowl: kale salad atop quinoa and tofu. Taro veggie burgers and poi açai bowls with fresh fruit are delicious spins on a local staple. Call in your order to expedite service. Vegan, Takeout Only. B, L. $

A Saigon Cafe, 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560.

Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot, the Vietnamese burrito, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D. $

Three’s Bar & Grill, 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133. Three’s serves eggs Benedict six ways, like seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib. For lunch, try Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen; for dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Pacific Rim/ Southwest. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Trilogy Excursions’ Sunset Dinner Sail, Mā‘alaea Harbor, 661-4743. Board a luxury catamaran for Chef Bailey’s four-course dinner. Choose rosemarygarlic-crusted steak on roasted garlic demi-glace, wild-caught mahimahi with lemon caper butter, or vegetarian pasta. Open bar with cocktails, wine, and Maui Brewery selections. American. D. RR. $$$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei. See West Side listing.

Foodland, 90 Kane St., Kahului, 877-2808.

See West Side listing. Additional Central Maui locations: 370 Kehalani Village Dr., Wailuku, 244-4460; Sack N Save, 790 Eha St., Wailuku, 244-0356. Poke. $

Sam Sato’s, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2447124. This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L. $ Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors, 199 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 873-8000. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: Tamura’s Express, 841 Alua St., Wailuku, 242-0957. Poke. $

CENTRAL CENTRAL

Aria’s Restaurant & Catering, 2062 W. Vineyard St., Wailuku, 242-2742. Luscious sandwiches, salads, and entrèes like braised chocolate chipotle lamb shank with maizena. American/Pacific Rim. B (Sat–Sun), L, D (Mon–Sat). $–$$ Bistro Casanova, 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 8733650. This downtown bistro branches out from its

Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-2877. Eclectic art and brightly painted tables decorate this popular gathering spot. At Happy Cappy Hour, 2 p.m. to closing, cappuccinos are $2.

Coffee Shop. B, L. $

Maui Fresh Streatery, 344-7929. Chef Kyle Kawakami rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L. $

Thai Mee Up, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369. Great Thai cuisine from a food truck? Who would have guessed? Thai. L, D. $

Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 893-0026. See West Side listing.

Tin Roof Maui, 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 8680753. Sheldon Simeon of Top Chef fame lets you build your own kau kau bowl with his savory offerings: sweet Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter and kochujang

Feeding your soul never tasted so good.

Open for breakfast lunch and dinner.

call us at 808-579-8877

1813 Baldwin Avenue, Makawao, Hawaii | 96768 w w w.lumeriamaui.com

LUMERIA Maui

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dining guide

PCOUNTR

sauce; seared furikake-crusted fish with wasabi mayo and soy, and more. Pacific Rim. L. $ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku.

Whole Foods Market, Maui Mall, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 872-3310. All things fresh and healthy. Order from the deli or construct your own meal from the salad and hot-food bars. Get it to go, or dine here inside or out. B, L, D. $

UPCOUNTRY

Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli, 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220. Order a tartufo pizza or carbonara pasta at this Upcountry institution. Kid-friendly. Italian/Pizza. B, L, D. $$ Farmacy Health Bar, Pukalani Terrace, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 868-0443. See Central listing.

Foodland, 55 Pukalani St., Pukalani, 572-0674.

See West Side listing. Poke. $

Grandma’s Coffee House, 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140. The eggs Benedict and made-fromscratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion. Coffee Shop. B, L, Snacks. $–$$ Hāli‘imaile General Store, 900 Hāli‘imaile Rd., Hāli‘imaile, 572-2666. Chef Bev Gannon dishes up fresh fish, local meats, and regional produce drenched in complex sauces. The towering sashimi appetizer is legendary. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$– $$$$ Kula Bistro, 4566 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 8712960. Big fat sandwiches on focaccia, Upcountry salad greens with house balsamic vinaigrette, and buttery scallop appetizers will have you swooning.

Fresh-fish entrèes and juicy burgers, too. American/ Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$

Lumeria’s Wooden Crate, 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579-8877. The freshest produce and proteins, served in a boutique setting. Try the grilled fresh catch or braised Maui tempeh with basil, kaffir lime and coconut curry sauce. For dessert: papaya with coconut cardamom cream and candied mac nuts. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$–$$$$

Two exciting farm tours in one unique setting

GOURMET LUNCH

SEED to CUP

Explore our gardens and enjoy a gourmet lunch prepared in your presence with freshly harvested natural produce.

Learn about the growing and roasting of coffee beans and conclude with the “perfect cappuccino” .

TOURS ARE WEEKDAYS 8:30 a.m. and 10:30 a.m.

O’o Farm is the exclusive farm for Pacific’O Restaurant in Lahaina

By Reservation only: 808.667.4341 • www.oofarm.com

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O’o Farm, 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour.

Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and fresh-roasted coffee in this bucolic setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted veggies and dessert. American.

B, L. $$$$

Polli’s Mexican Restaurant, 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-7808. The sign outside says, “Come in and eat, or we’ll both starve!” Follow that advice to find entrées like kitchen-sink burritos and grilled carne asada plates with refried beans and Spanish rice.

Mexican. L, D. $$ Ulupalakua Ranch Store & Grill, 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561. Across the road from MauiWine, find great deli fare, and hot-off-thegrill lamb burger with tzatziki, grass-fed elk, venison or beef burgers. Plus homestyle chili and rice, or kalua pork plate lunch. American. L, D. $

ORTH SHORE & HAN

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NORTH SHORE

Café Des Amis, 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 5796323. Savory crêpes are served with wild greens and sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney and raita, Indian yogurt sauce. Dine indoors or out.

Kid-friendly. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $ Flatbread Company, 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989. Big booths, charity nights, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies make this a North Shore institution. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$ Greek Oven, 810 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9752.

Tucked inside an old factory, this quaint café serves scrumptious bougatsa (buttery filo dough filled with semolina custard), fresh-baked breads and pastry, spanakopita, moussaka and freddo cafe. Greek. B, L. $ Jaws Country Store, 4320 Hāna Hwy., Ha‘ikū, 419-6887. Dig into a poached egg on sourdough toast with tomato, caramelized onions and pesto; or try a poke bowl with mac nuts, avo and Maui onions.

Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $ Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488. Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine.

Each detail evokes old-time island hospitality. Hawaiian /Seafood. L, D, RR. $$–$$$$

GOLD Most Innovative Menu SILVER Restaurant of the Year

Pā‘ia Fish Market, 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 5798030. Huge slabs of fresh fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $ Paia Inn Café, 93 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-6004.

Strawberry-papaya parfaits, ‘ahi eggs Benedict, and a delicious (and photo-worthy) cheese platter served with honeycomb to sweeten the deal. Originality shines at the Inn. International. B, BR. $–$$

HĀNA

Barefoot Café, 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732.

Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or mahimahi plate lunch to go. Pacific Rim. B, L. $ Hāna Burger Food Truck at Hāna Ranch, 5670 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 268-2820. Grass-finished beef burgers, fish sandwiches and salads. Call for hours.

American/Food Truck. L. $ The Preserve Kitchen + Bar, Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401. Hāna-sourced produce and fish ground an original menu by Chef Isabelle Toland. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juices and sours. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $–$$$

ISLAND OF LĀNA‘I Pele’s Other Garden, 811 Houston St., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-9628. Big deli sandwiches, calzones, pizza, pasta, beer and wine. Deli/Italian. L, D. $–$$ Malibu Farm, Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., 808-565-2000. Organic, farm-to-table fare and a sweeping ocean view. Start with quinoa oatmeal with coconut milk. For lunch, try the Caesar BLT salad or a burrata fruit salad with arugula, mango, papaya and candied mac nuts. American. B, L, $$–$$$.

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calendar

Looking for more? Visit MauiMagazine.net/maui-events

L–R: January 5, G LOVE & Ozomatli | January 6, Willie K Bluesfest | January 12, Judy Collins | January 13, Natalie Ai Kamau‘u | January 25, Aotearoa‘s Finest

JANUARY

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3-7

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15-16

Janua George & Friends Viewpoints Gallery Maui artists join George Allan for this exhibit celebrating his 80th birthday. Tues.–Sat., noon–5 p.m. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; ViewpointsGallery Maui.com

& FEBRUARY 4

Upcountry Sundays Acoustic Style Casanova Italian Restaurant and Deli Volunteer-run Mana‘o Radio goes live during this benefit that showcases local and visiting musicians the first Sunday of every month. 2–5 p.m.

1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao; 242-5666; Manao Radio.com

1

Bill Maher Castle Theater, Maui Arts & Cultural Center The man who opened the floodgates of funny political talk delivers biting wit and social commentary. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Sentry Tournament of Champions The Plantation Course, Kapalua Come root (shh—quietly) for this exclusive field of champions, each a 2017 PGA Tour winner. Sentry TournamentOfChampions.com

1, 13

–15; FEBRUARY 17–19, 24

Fine Art Fair Banyan Tree Park Browse paintings, ceramics, photography, jewelry, carvings and more under the banyan tree next to the Old Lahaina Courthouse. 9 a.m.–5 p.m. 648 Wharf St., Lahaina; 661-0111; LahainaArts.com

5

G LOVE & Ozomatli Castle Theater, MACC G LOVE’s street-side blues warms up the stage for Ozomatli, renowned for blending salsa, hip hop, reggae, rock, merengue and funk. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES Each week, a different Maui town hosts music, artists’ demos, children’s activities and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m.

It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike.

Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com

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Judy Collins Castle Theater, MACC This singer-songwriter and folk-music icon performs works from her latest release, Strangers Again, a collection of duets with some of her favorite male artists, including Don McLean, Michael McDonald, Jeff Bridges, Willie Nelson and Jackson Browne.

Guest Ari Hest will also perform. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Jan 5, Feb 2 First Friday Wailuku Jan 12, Feb 9 Second Friday Lahaina Jan 19, Feb 16 Third Friday Makawao Jan 26, Feb 23 Fourth Friday Kīhei

–FEBRUARY 16

Annual Juried Exhibition Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center This prestigious multimedia exhibit features works by local artists. Opening reception Jan. 12, 5–7 p.m.; gallery open daily, 9 a.m.–4 p.m. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; HuiNoeau.com Natalie Ai Kamau‘u McCoy Studio Theater, MACC A four-time Nā Hōkū Hanohano Female Vocalist of the Year and former Miss Aloha Hula, Kamau‘u performs music from her albums, including the Grammy-nominated La La La La. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org Maui Oceanfront Marathon Wailea to Lahaina The course runs along the ocean to Kamehameha Iki Park near Lahaina’s banyan tree. Includes a half marathon, 15K, 10K, and 5K races. Maui OceanfrontMarathon.com

New Shanghai Circus Castle Theater, MACC China’s most daring acrobats, jugglers, balance artists and contortionists return to Maui for this family-friendly show. Jan. 15, 4 & 7:30 p.m.; Jan. 16, 4 & 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

16

–MARCH 18

Schaefer Portrait Challenge Schaefer International Gallery, MACC Some of Hawai‘i’s finest artists capture the personalities and stories that shape our islands’ culture. Gallery is open Tues.–Sun., 10 a.m.–5 p.m.

Families are invited to visit the exhibit and create a keepsake piece of art on Observe and Play Family Day, Jan. 27, 10 a.m.–noon. See story on page 57. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

SECOND FROM LEFT: TONY NOVAK-CLIFFORD; ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER

Willie K Bluesfest Events Lawn, MACC Join Willie and his guests as they deliver an eclectic evening of live jams. 6 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

THROUGH JANUARY 15

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Lisa Fischer and Grand Baton Castle Theater, MACC After decades of singing background for icons like the Rolling Stones, Tina Turner, and Chaka Khan, Lisa Fischer steps into the spotlight, accompanied by the electronica, world and rock music of Grand Baton. Show includes a dance floor. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Hawaii’s oldest and favorite gallery • Lahaina & Kapalua

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Miss Moku O Ka Loke Hula Pageant McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Bringing back the festive “hula days” of the past, this inaugural solo hula pageant will highlight dancers’ confidence, stage presence, style, and talents. 4:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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Buy Back the Beach Old Lāhaina Lū‘au Join Hawaiian Islands Land Trust for its 17th annual fundraiser at Maui’s most award-winning lū‘au.

Proceeds protect Hawai‘i’s endangered places.

5–8:30 p.m. 1251 Front St., Lahaina; 244-5263; hilt.org

Carleton “West Maui Splendor ” Oil

Village Galleries • Lahaina 2018 Exhibitions CARLETON • JANUARY 5 - 25 B.H. FREELAND & MICHAEL CLEMENTS • JANUARY 26 - FEBRUARY 15 MACARIO PASCUAL • FEBRUARY 16 - MARCH 8

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Celebration of Hawai‘i Viewpoints Gallery Artists create new works on the theme “A Sense of Place.” Opening reception Jan. 20, 5 p.m. Lecture on “Kalākaua’s Voyage around the World,” Feb. 17, 3 p.m. Regular gallery hours: Tues.–Sat., noon–5 p.m. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; ViewpointsGalleryMaui.com

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Broadway Pops Castle Theater, MACC Broadway conductor, Grammy- and Emmy Awardwinner Jason Howland takes the podium during this annual concert, featuring performances by vocalists Gary Mauer and Anne Runolfsson. 3 p.m.

One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts. org

Michael Clements “Lahaina Surf Break ” Pastel

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Aotearoa’s Finest Castle Theater, MACC This is music that fuses cultural roots, memorable tunes, and honest, gripping lyrics by Māori singer/songwriters Maisey Rika, Rob Ruha, and Seth Haapu, joined by Horomona Horo, New Zealand’s leading practitioner in traditional Maori instruments. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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Judy’s Gang presents Party On! Castle Theater, MACC Judy Ridolfino and her gang will show you how to do the twist, the silly squirrel dance, and the boogie oogie oogie during this family-friendly performance. 5 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Macario Pascual “Harvest Rhythm” Oil

~ Village Galleries • Kapalua • Artists-In-Residence ~

KATHLEEN ALEXANDER • JANUARY 1-31 FRED KENKNIGHT & ARABELLA ARK • FEBRUARY 1-28

FEBRUARY

WEEKENDS THROUGH FEBRUARY

Maui Open Studios Meet island artists over four weekends, beginning with a preview Feb. 3, 5–8 p.m. at UH–Maui College’s Pā‘ina Building, 310 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului. See story on page 57. For schedule and other info, visit MauiOpenStudios.com.

B. H.Freeland “Nani Wailele” Oil

Kathleen Alexander

120 Dickenson St. • Lahaina • 808.661.4402 One Ritz-Carlton Dr. • Kapalua • 808.669.1800

villagegalleriesmaui.com

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Cuarteto Latinoamericano Castle Theater, MACC The esteemed ensemble from Mexico won Latin Grammy Awards for best classical recording in 2013 and 2016. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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ArT=Mixx Yokouchi Pavilion/Schaefer International Gallery, MACC This free event features performing and visual art and activities in conjunction with the exhibit Schaefer Portrait Challenge. Costumes encouraged; ages 21 and older welcome. 7–11 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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Young Artists Showcase Historic ‘Īao Theater Conductor Robert E. Wills leads this Maui Chamber Orchestra concert. Sat. 7:30 p.m.; Sun. 3 p.m. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-6969; MauiOnStage.com

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Okareka Dance Company: Mana Wahine Castle Theater, MACC This all-female work draws strength from Māori culture in dance, theater and film, emulating the journey from life force to spirit world. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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Green Room: Tracy K. Smith McCoy Studio Theater, MACC The Merwin Conservancy presents Poet Laureate Tracy K. Smith, Pulitzer Prize-winner and director of Princeton’s creative-writing program. 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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Dan Tepfer Castle Theater, MACC Jazz pianist/composer performs pieces from his Goldberg Variations/Variations album. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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Dave Mason Castle Theater, MACC The Rock & Roll Hall-of-Famer presents The Very Best of Dave Mason tour, based on one of America’s most beloved rock albums. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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Run & Walk for the Whales Mā‘alaea Harbor Shops Join Pacific Whale Foundation on a 1-mile walk, 5K, 10K or 11.5-mile race. 300 Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea; 856-8362; MauiWhaleFestival.org

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Kū Kanaka/Stand Tall McCoy Studio Theater, MACC A diving accident leaves teenager Kanalu Young a quadriplegic. Angry and defiant through months of rehabilitation, he begins to change when he learns the Hawaiian language and discovers a hidden story of Hawai‘i’s past. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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Whale Tales The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua/Hyatt Regency Maui, Kā‘anapali An international gathering of scientists and conservationists share insights about Maui’s whales, plus presentations and a whale-watching cruise.

1 Ritz Carlton Drive, Kapalua/200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. 572-5700; WhaleTrust.org

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Kūkahi 2018: Keali‘i Reichel and Hālau Ke‘alaokamaile Castle Theater, MACC Nineteen-time Nā Hōkū Hanohano Award-winner

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‘Aipono Wine Dinner The Banyan Tree at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua Chef Alvin Savella creates a special menu to pair with wines from Turley Wine Cellars, presented by Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants. A portion of the sales benefits UH–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program. $125 per person, plus tax & gratuity. 5:30 p.m. One Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua. Reservations: 665-7089

Keali‘i Reichel is joined by his hālau hula (hula troupe) for an evening of song, chant and dance.

7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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Maui Plein Air Painting Invitational Plein-air painters from Hawai‘i and the mainland spend the week capturing Maui on canvas. Come watch. Plus workshops, paint-offs, and opportunities to view and purchase artwork. See story on page 57. 268-0787; MauiPleinAirPainting.org

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Ananya Dance Theater presents Shyamali: Sprouting Words Castle Theater, MACC Primarily women of color, this troupe uses dance as a response to global issues. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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Chinese New Year Wo Hing Museum Ring in the Year of the Dog! This free celebration features lion dancing, cultural activities, martial arts, live music, and more. 5–9 p.m. 858 Front St., Lahaina; 661-5553; LahainaRestoration.org

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Kumu Kahua Theatre: Wild Birds McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Inspired by historical events, this drama tells the story of cultural clashes and the effects of western education on the indigenous monarchy.

7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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Art Affair Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center Support community arts education at this annual art auction and social event. 5–10 p.m. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; HuiNoeau.com

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The Songs of C&K Hana Hou Castle Theater, MACC Grammy Museum inductee Henry Kapono revives the music of C&K with fellow musicians Johnny Valentine, Alx Kawakami of Manoa DNA, and Blayne Asing. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

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Winter Pops Castle Theater, MACC This annual Maui Pops concert features Broadway performer Capathia Jenkins. To celebrate Black History Month, Jenkins will narrate Aaron Copland’s Lincoln Portrait. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org Email your event to Calendar@Maui Magazine.net, or submit it online at MauiMagazine.net/maui-events. Listings for MNKO’s March-April 2018 print edition must be received by January 12. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.

HUI NO‘EAU VISUAL ARTS CENTER

Celebrating 100 Years of Kaluanui in 2017!

2018 HUI NO‘EAU ANNUAL JURIED EXHIBITION JANUARy 12 - FEBRUARy 16 huinoeau.com • 572-6560 Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Jan–Feb 2018

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MAUI FIL-AM HERITAGE FESTIVAL | Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center | October 21, 2017 | Hosted by the Maui Filipino Chamber of Commerce Foundation L to R: Wayne Aguiran, Jojo Vasquez, Sharon Zalsos, Jonathan Pasion | Paradise Market ladies | Toni Rojas | Lennie Rebudal, Priscilla Baloaloa, Alma Tabios

CEASAR LIZADA

who’s who

L to R: Tom & Michelle Sewell, Jason Denhart | Seated: W.S. Merwin; standing: Bill True, Matthew Schwartz, Richard Andrews | Mary Jo & Larry Padilla | Stefan Schaefer, Chenta Laury

BRYAN BERKOWITZ

90TH BIRTHDAY TRIBUTE TO W.S. MERWIN | Maui Arts & Cultural Center | September 29, 2017 | Hosted by The Merwin Conservancy

NOBLE CHEF | Fairmont Kea Lani | October 28, 2017 | Benefit for UH-Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program

Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at Facebook.com/MauiMagazine.

L to R: Dickie & Cindy Moon | Belia & Doug Paul | Kalani Pe‘a | Chef Instructor Teresa Shurilla (left) accepts $20K donation from Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s Diane Woodburn (right).

MARC ANTOSCH

L to R: Joan Padgett, Jeannette Iwado, Carol Clark | Anna Cauffman, Shannah Milstead | State Senator Roz Baker | Kathy Baldwin, Sara Tekula

‘AIPONO WINE DINNER | Spago at Four Season Resort Maui | November 4, 2017 | Benefit for UH-Maui College’s Food Innovation Center

MIEKO PHOTOGRAPHY

L to R: Randy & Brit Miller, Brenda & Rich Shot | Karen Sommer and Paul Gammie | Teri Edmonds, Jason C. Smith | Steve & Kathleen Moore, Sandi & John McGrath

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Imua Family Services presents Festivals of the World – A Celebration and Gala Fundraiser

SATURDAY 03 . 3 1 . 18 H YAT T R E G E N C Y M A U I , K A‘A N A PA L I

For Tickets, Reservations and Sponsorships ImuaFamilyServices.org or call 808.244.7467

T I C K E T S ON S A L E 0 1 . 0 8 . 1 8

TAJ MAHALO AFTER PARTY Maui’s Most Enlightened Dance Party FEATURING Eric Gilliom & Band and Next Level Entertainment

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

a perfect day on maui

First Resort

Follow your local guide and make the most of Maui.

Story by Lehia Apana

Westin Nanea

Roy’s

FootGolf

Japengo

1 Kai Ala Dr.

Keka‘a Dr.

Honoapi‘ilani Hwy.

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3 Nohea Kai Dr.

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Tour of the Stars

are served with island flair. Try the Dim Sum Canoe for Two, a generous helping of Hawai‘i favorites, including lumpia, poke, and potstickers. Roy’s serves lunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily. 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali; 808-669-6999

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7–10 a.m. The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas is the new kid on Kā‘anapali Beach. Take a cue from its name—nanea translates as relaxation—and ease into the day with breakfast delivered to your door. Prefer a DIY meal? Each villa has a full-sized kitchen, and thanks to Nanea’s grocery delivery service, you can opt to have ingredients waiting for you upon arrival.

45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali; 808-6626300; WestinNanea.com 10 a.m.–noon Mere steps away is Kahekili Beach Park, also known as “North Beach” or “Airport Beach” because of its proximity to the old West Maui Airport. Snorkeling here is as easy as it gets. A few fin kicks from shore, and you’ll be gliding over neon-hued fish and mounds of cauliflower-shaped coral. This stretch of sand is also home to the Kahekili Herbivores Fisheries Management Area, a marine reserve that’s protecting the reef by protecting the fish that clean it. You can rent snorkel gear from Nanea’s poolside Aqualani activity center.

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1–2:30 p.m. Among the founding members of Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine, Roy Yamaguchi earned his celebrity-chef distinction well before the words Top Chef or Hell’s Kitchen meant anything. His eponymous restaurant sits just above the eighteenth hole of Kā‘anapali Golf Course, and dishes

3–5 p.m. Grab a soccer ball and try your hand—er, foot—at FootGolf. Kā‘anapali Golf Course is the only spot on Maui to offer the hybrid sport. The rules are similar to traditional golf, with players competing over nine modified holes. FootGolf begins at 3:30 p.m., once the golfers have played through. Arrive early to check in and browse the pro shop, the only place that carries official Kā‘anapali logo wear.

2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali; Kaanapali GolfCourses.com 7:30–9:30 p.m. Asian-inspired with a Hawai‘i accent, Japengo at Hyatt Regency Maui is a fan favorite, earning Gold ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards for Best Asian and Best Pacific Rim Cuisine, plus a Silver for Best Sushi. The relaxing outdoor setting and occasional live music complete the experience.

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9:45 p.m. Follow Hyatt’s director of astronomy Eddie Mahoney to the hotel’s rooftop for a show that’s literally out of this world. Professional-grade telescopes reveal the stellar landscape and Eddie connects the dots with a seemingly endless supply of knowledge. The last show of the evening, this Romantic Tour of the Stars is reserved for adults and includes chocolate-dipped strawberries and champagne. maui.regency.hyatt.com

Follow Lehia Apana on her “Perfect Day” at MauiMagazine.net/explore-Kaanapali.

FROM TOP, L–R: JASON MOORE; WESTIN NANEA; JOHN GIORDANI; KĀ‘ANAPALI GOLF COURSE; HYATT REGENCY MAUI (2)

Who says you have to rack up the mileage to make the most of Maui? With its medley of dining and entertainment options, Kā‘anapali makes it easy to explore some of the best the island has to offer.

Find Your Aloha.

Where the spirit of exploration meets the sweetness of homecoming, you’ll find Montage Residences Kapalua Bay. A modern take on resort living, free of pretense, alive with fun. Signature services and amenities are infused with the essence of a beloved place. Make the Montage experience your own, and reclaim the luxury of delight.

A limited offering of spacious oceanfront three- and four-bedroom Residences is available. Starting from the mid $3 millions. Schedule your private showing.

800 691 3527

MontageResidencesKapaluaBay.com

This does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of an offer to buy a unit. Nor is it an offering or solicitation of sale in any jurisdiction where the development is not registered in accordance with applicable law or where such offering or solicitation would otherwise be prohibited by law. Obtain all disclosure documents required by applicable laws and read them before signing anything. No governmental agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of the development. Further, ownership of a unit in the development will be subject to the terms of various documents relating to the development. The resort project described herein (the “Project”) and the residential units located within the Project (the “Residential Units”) are not owned, developed, or sold by Montage Hotels & Resorts, LLC, its affiliates or their respective licensors (collectively, “Montage”) and Montage does not make any representations, warranties or guaranties whatsoever with respect to the Residential Units, the Project or any part thereof. Island Acquisitions Kapalua LLC uses the Montage brand name and certain Montage trademarks (collectively, the “Operator Trademarks”) in connection with the sales and marketing of the Residential Units in the Project under a limited, non-exclusive, non-transferable and non-sublicensable license from Montage. The foregoing license may be terminated or may expire without renewal, in which case neither the Residential Units nor any part of the Project will be identified as a Montage branded project or have any rights to use the Operator Trademarks.