Maui Ocean Center debuts a Hawaiian Culture and Plant Tour
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Maui From Above with CHRIS ARCHER aerial photographer Waihou Spring Trail
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UPCOUNTRY HIKE TRACES
HISTORY OF REFORESTATION & PRESERVATION EFFORTS
Maui Ocean Center debuts a Hawaiian Culture and Plant Tour
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Maui From Above with CHRIS ARCHER aerial photographer Waihou Spring Trail
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UPCOUNTRY HIKE TRACES
HISTORY OF REFORESTATION & PRESERVATION EFFORTS
What’s the only thing better than a real estate agent who’s committed to you and your dreams? Not one—but two—dedicated agents who are here to help make it happen.
See some of the faces and names at this year's Kapalua Wine and Food Festival at The Ritz-Calrton Maui, Kapalua.
At Maui Ocean Center, explore the above-water world of native, endemic and canoe plants that forge the ecological relationship between mauka and makai.
The trail through Waihou Spring Forest Reserve above Makawao feels like a hike through the forests of the Pacific Northwest.
Story by Mona de Crinis
Photographs by Chris Archer
Aerial photographer Chris Archer gives new perspectives on beloved Maui locales.
Photographs by Ryan Siphers
‘Less is more’ for interior designer’s home retreat on twoacre Ha‘ikū property.
ON THE COVER Pōhuehue (beach morning glory) blooms on Palauea Beach in South Maui.
See page 22 to learn more about indigenous plant life at the Maui Ocean Center.
by Rick Carlson
It’s just the beginning.”
Dining Editor Carla Tracy has been a leading voice in Maui’s food and beverage industry for more than 30 years, previously as dining editor at The Maui News and as a Maui restaurant and entertainment scene contributor to the Honolulu Star-Advertiser
In each issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Tracy writes the “Craving Maui” column, which is full of the latest happenings and insider information about Maui's the dining scene.
A winner of multiple awards from the Hawai‘i Chapter of the Society of Professional Journalists for her feature stories, Tracy has judged countless food contests; interviewed celebrity chefs, famous winemakers and notable rock stars; and entertained readers with her intimate reporting. These days, in addition to her work at Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Tracy focuses time on her North Shore farm growing coconuts, bananas, dragon fruit and wetland taro.
Ryan Siphers has been a commercial photographer since 2006, starting his career on Maui at age 22 after attending the Brooks Institute of Photography in Santa Barbara. He began regular contributor appearances in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi in 2010, photographing architecture, food and the people of Maui.
Siphers discovered early on that having a camera in hand was one of the best ways to find adventure. He moved to the island as a young man with his wife, Julie Siphers, owner of HOLOHOLO SURF shop in Makawao. Together they built careers and a family on Maui.
When not behind the lens, Siphers and his family enjoy time at the beach – wherever the surf is good or the fish are biting.
Making her first appearance in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, writer Mona de Crinis carries decades of experience in the publishing industry, wearing the hats of writer, graphic designer and editor. She honed her magazine publishing experience as a senior editor at Palm Springs Life before moving to Maui and then working for The Maui News. She was later hired as the managing editor for Pacific Whale Foundation. de Crinis proudly calls Maui her “adopted home” and has found the island has opened her eyes to a new and enchanting world. “To talk story about Maui is a privilege and honor that comes with great responsibility guided by reverence, truthfulness, and purity of intention,” she said.
When not telling the stories of Maui and its people, de Crinis can be found on the tennis court, adventuring on a hiking trail, or enjoying the “warm embrace” of the island’s tropical waters.
SUMMER 2023
VOL. 27, NO. 4
Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi is an internationally-distributed magazine dedicated to exploring the life and culture of Maui Nui. There’s a saying known in the islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.
Publisher & Executive Editor
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Angela Amundson
ED ITO RIAL
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Here are some of the folks who make our magazine nō ka ‘oi (the best).
MY MORNINGS START mauka to makai.
I strap on my helmet, turn on my high-intensity headlight and check the tire pressure on my mountain bike.
With safety steps complete, I pedal up an incline through a former macadamia nut plantation then pause briefly at the intersection to look down on Paukūkalo, Kahului Harbor, Kahului Airport and the North Shore.
In the winter, I can hear the waves pounding the reef at Ho‘okipa. In the summer, the surf is flat, and surfers are stalking placid south shore swells – but my exhilarating ride to work is about to begin.
I turn the corner, and with a few fast turns of the pedal, I’m on my way down the mountain. Gravity is my friend. I pick up speed. Roosters grazing for bugs on the roadside scurry away with heads ducked as a I fly past.
A few minutes later and I’m at the Kahekili Highway, then soon coasting into Happy Valley behind a Maui-style "traffic jam” of four or five Tacoma work trucks. I stop at Takamiya Market for Spam musubi to-go, then ride over Wailuku River, then turn down Mill Street on the home stretch to the magazine’s office on Imi Kala Street.
But before I round the corner to the office – each morning I pass the same mural: “Mauka to Makai.”
Completed in 2019 as part of the Small Town, Big Art initiative, this painting by husband-andwife team Matthew and Roxanne Ortiz shows a whimsical scene of a tree house with a yellow playground slide and half-pipe skateboard ramp. But its message is all-business.
The builders of the tree house have repurposed two voyaging canoe ama (outriggers) to be planters for a thriving aquaculture garden. A catchment tank provides water to a closed system that feeds a “Native Plant Nursery.”
In the distance is a verdant mountainside with
a stream flowing to an ocean bay where an inset painting depicts coral teaming with reef fish and honu.
In Hawai‘i, we use the words “mauka” and “makai” frequently to give directions: A house, business or road toward the mountain is mauka; toward the ocean is makai. Put them together, “mauka to makai,” and we get a profound statement about the interconnectedness of the land and ocean.
Here on Maui, whether you recognize it or not, mauka to makai drives our daily life. We travel seamlessly between the two in our commutes for work and recreation. It drives our weather patterns, too – resulting in wind and rain that can be nourishing or destructive.
The ancient Hawaiians developed wisdom, tradition and practices based on the mauka-tomakai connection. “They learned to adapt to, steward and live in tandem with the environment," Pukalani-based researcher Cody Pueo Pata told me.
This sacred mauka-to-makai relationship is consummated at our beaches – the place where land steps into the ocean. Pōhuehue (beach morning glory), which graces our magazine cover, has an important task on our beaches. Above ground, we see its purple flowers, goat’s feet-shaped leaves and network of creeping vines. But the real work happens subterranean. Each plant pushes down thick taproots and sends runners that connect and stabilize the fragile shoreline from the pounding forces of nature.
When beaches wash out and are reformed, pōhuehue is usually the first plant to emerge and get back to work stabilizing the sand.
The mauka-to-makai connection has been going on for time immemorial and continues without many of us recognizing it. Featured in this issue, Maui Ocean Center has developed a new educational tour that seeks to teach us about how entwined our land and oceans are on Maui.
Scores of individuals and organizations are working for the same goal: healthier land, healthier ocean. Like pōhuehue, as each sends down deeper roots and expands its positive influence, the ancient mauka-to-makai connection gets stronger every year.
The legacy behind the popular Maui surfboard brand, KazumaSurfboards Hawai‘i.
By Serene Gunnison Nick RiccaWHEN MATT KAZUMA Kinoshita was a teenager , he was heading for a successful career as a professional surfer. During his days as a top-level competitor, Kinoshita clinched the coveted U.S. Surfing Championship and represented Hawai‘i on an international level at the World Surfing Championships. But around age 20, Kinoshita’s professional aspirations did a 180, as he shifted his focus from surfing to surfboard shaping.
The catalyst for this change was a man named Ben Aipa, his surfing coach who offered Kinoshita formal training in surfboard shaping.
Aipa, who passed away in early 2021, is known as one of the greatest Hawaiian surfboard shapers of all time. In the early 1970s, Aipa invented the swallow tail and split tail designs. These newfangled creations awakened a high-performance surfing revolution, which took the sport to new heights and earned the legendary shaper a place in surfing’s Hall of Fame in 1992.
Ben Aipa didn’t offer his tutelage to just anybody, and to be taken under his wing was one of the highest privileges a budding shaper could achieve. “Surfboard shaping was once a secret society that was impossible to get into,” Kinoshita said. “To be formally trained by master Ben Aipa was unheard of and I was so honored and privileged to get his training.”
After absorbing Aipa’s esteemed shaping formula, known as the “Aipa Method,” Kinoshita went on to found Kazuma Surfboards Hawaii, one of Maui’s most recognizable surfboard brands. In the late 1990s, Kinoshita opened the Kazuma Surf Factory in a weathered green building in Pauwela. The space is a veritable surfboard candy shop. Dozens of unridden surfboards line the showroom walls, tempting surfers who enter to whip out their credit card and leave with a brand-new stick. The sounds and scents of a working surfboard factory drift from the room next door, and surfers waiting on a custom board can peer into the production facility and watch their board being built in real time – a novelty in the surfboard shaping world.
While Kinoshita has found immense success as a surfboard shaper, he also dabbles in coaching, just as Aipa once did. Kinoshita
helped kickstart the careers of several eminent Maui surfers, such as Dusty Payne, Ian Walsh and Imaikalani deVault. Now, Kinoshita is focused on perpetuating the Aipa Method and passing his knowledge on to upcoming shapers. He currently mentors 250 shapers around the world, virtually helping them improve their shaping and business skills.
As Kinoshita edges toward retirement, he wants to transition production to lower volume custom builds, focusing more on high-quality, personalized surfboards. A few years from now, the Kazuma showroom might not be packed with stock boards like it is today, and Kinoshita’s shapes may become more elusive. But while the proverbial changing of the guard is inevitable, Kinoshita has made sure that Aipa’s legacy – and his own – will endure.
Nick RiccaKANAHĀ POND WILDLIFE Sanctuary is a model Hawaiian wetland teeming with endemic plants and endangered native birds. Yet Kanahā Pond is often thought of as a stinky, swampy wasteland, thanks to the pond’s unfortunate neighbors – an industrial area, Kahului Airport and the Kahului Wastewater Treatment Plant, which is responsible for the unpleasant smell that envelopes the pond on windy days. But the bad reputation for Kanaha is just an illusion. Beyond the sanctuary’s chain-link borders, you’ll find a prosperous wetland with a rich yet tumultuous history.
Wetlands once stretched from present-day Kahului Airport to the Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center. In addition to providing habitat for myriad native species, these wetlands supported two royal loko pu‘uone, inland fishponds believed to have been built by King Kapi‘iohookalani in the late 1700s.
By the early 20th century, most of Kahului’s wetlands had disappeared – filled in or dried out to make room for development. Kanahā Pond was spared, though not entirely. When Kahului Harbor was dredged in 1910, portions of the pond were filled in with the material from the dredging. The
area was further altered in the 1940s when a Naval Air Station was constructed in the northeast corner of the pond.
Despite the diminishing habitat and increased human activity, the pond remained a magnet for birds from near and far. In 1952, the pond’s significance as a waterbird habitat was recognized, and Kanahā Pond was formally designated as Hawai‘i’s first wildlife refuge. Twenty years later, the Department of the Interior named Kanahā Pond a National Natural Landmark.
Today, Kanahā Pond is managed by Hawai‘i Division of Forestry and Wildlife and is acknowledged as a vital habitat for federally endangered native birds like ae‘o (Hawaiian stilt). Only 1,000-2,000 Hawaiian stilts remain, but these longlegged natives are found at Kanahā Pond in abundance. Other native “regulars” include ‘auku‘u (black crowned night heron) and ‘alae ke‘oke‘o (Hawaiian coot).
In the winter months, bird numbers at the sanctuary can skyrocket into the thousands, as yearly migrants such as the kōlea
its chain-link borders and public misconceptions is a flourishing native habitat.
(Pacific golden plover) arrive in Hawai‘i en masse. Other migratory birds thrown off course may rest at Kanahā before resuming their journeys, like Canada geese and the occasional curlew. Forestry and Wildlife employees also report seeing marsh hawks, peregrine falcons, nēnē (Hawaiian geese) and even great blue herons.
Although Kanahā Pond Wildlife Sanctuary has been protected for the better part of a century, the work to safeguard the pond’s wildlife and habitat is ongoing. The DOFAW is currently installing a predator- proof fence around the entirety of the sanctuary to keep nesting birds safe from rats, cats, mongooses and dogs. Once the fence is complete, DOFAW will reopen the sanctuary’s public access trail off Amala Place, though it closes seasonally from Aug. 31 to March 31 for the breeding season.
Next time you drive past Kanahā Pond, try to see it for what it is: a healthy, springfed wetland that supports some of Hawai‘i’s last remaining waterbirds. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot groups of ae‘o balancing precariously on their long pink legs, or maybe a mighty ‘auku‘u resting stoically nearby.
This sanctuary and the protected wetlands inside its fences host thousands of flying friends, especially over the winter. Guests to the pond include endangered native birds like the Hawaiian stilt.
A WHITE CANVAS made of silky yarn awaits textile artist Cathy Detrick in her South Maui home. Stretched on a loom that takes up almost an entire ocean-view room, the yarn has been pulled, the tension perfect, and the fabric paint and bright bolts ready. A photo, sketch or watercolor positioned near the loom guides the artist as she meticulously works her magic from the bottom up.
“For wall hangings, I start with all-white chenille or silk threads and paint them as I go, moving up the piece,” Detrick describes. “Starting at the bottom, which might be ocean, sand or land, I work up.”
Capturing Maui’s mercurial sky can be challenging, Detrick said. “It’s always changing, never the same twice.”
With several looms going at once, she shifts focus between ongoing projects, allowing space for her artistry to breathe when faced with the occasional block. Long morning swims and snorkel sessions with
her husband help quicken the blood, fire the imagination and quell the static of 24-hour news cycles and other modern distractions.
“To live in that undersea world, however briefly, with turtles, octopuses and all kinds of amazing fish inspires me greatly,” she said.
Acclimating to island life took a few years, Detrick admits. Moving to Maui in 1999 from New England, where she enjoyed a flourishing career on Cape Cod, was a leap of faith for the professional artist. Although difficult in the beginning, Detrick has stitched together a life and reputation rooted in volcanic rock.
Today she gleans inspiration from Maui’s natural beauty and soothes her spirit in its tropical waters, the tide turning when she was invited to join Four Seasons Resort Maui’s Artists’ Showcase in the early 2000s after the director saw one of her pieces.
On most Wednesdays, you can find Detrick at the 5-star Wailea property
displaying large wall hangings that deftly reimagine nature’s raw majesty through woven thread. It’s a medium that rewards patience, Detrick acknowledges.
From designing the tapestry and warping the loom to dying the threads and knotting the hem, the process is more tortoise than hare – taking about a week to prep before the metamorphosis can begin. “There’s something quite beautiful about having to keep 650 white threads in order with perfect tension. It’s very meditative,” Detrick said – a quality organic to her work.
“I try to make art with complementary color interaction and balance that makes the viewer feel peaceful,” she said. “That’s what I strive for – beauty and peace.”
To view or purchase Cathy Detrick originals, visit catherinedetrick.com. The artist will resume her Four Seasons residency, Wednesdays 8 a.m.-1:30 p.m., in September 2023.
Jason MooreTextile artist Cathy Detrick reflects the sea and sand.
Owner Romela Agbayani designs and sews these adorable Hawaiian dresses and accessories for 18-inch American Girl dolls, as well as matching dresses and accessories for girls of all ages.
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Those navigating the outdoor walkways enjoy endemic and canoe plants in a rainbow of colors.
Left, ‘awapuhi ‘ula‘ula (red ginger); top right, pōhuehue (beach morning glory); right, leaves and berries of the ‘ākia shrub.
t the Maui Ocean Center, visitors might hardly notice the plants that line the aquarium’s outdoor walkways. After all, their heads are filled with visions of kaleidoscopic corals and apex ocean predators – and to the untrained eye, shrubs and vines and flowers are decidedly less exciting. But things are starting to change.
This summer, the Maui Ocean Center debuted a Hawaiian Culture and Plant Tour, illuminating the aquarium’s motley of native, endemic and canoe plants (plants brought to the islands by voyaging Polynesians).
It’s a balmy Tuesday morning as a small group gathers near the aquarium entrance for
the second-ever Hawaiian Culture and Plant Tour, led by Maui Ocean Center naturalists Sara and Kahiau. Sara is quick to answer the question on everyone’s mind: Why would an aquarium host a tour about plants?
“Anything that happens up in the mountains is going to affect what goes on in our waters,” Sara replied. “If you remove all of the plants from an area and it rains, all of that soil, all of those nutrients, fertilizers, runoff, that is going to hit the oceans and start to degrade our coral reefs.”
But it’s not just the ecological relationship between mauka (upland) and makai (sea) that this excursion aims to explore. In keeping
with Maui Ocean Center’s commitment to honoring and showcasing Hawaiian culture, the 90-minute tour takes deep dives into plants’ role in Hawaiian life.
Hawaiians recognized the connection between plants and marine life. This parallel laid the foundation for many Hawaiian cultural pillars. As Sara leads the group to a small alahe‘e bush – a native shrub with glossy, deep green leaves and bunches of tiny fragrant white flowers – she recites a passage from the kumulipo, the Hawaiian creation chant.
“Hanau ka he‘e noho i kai. Kia‘i ia e ka alahe‘e noho i uka. Born is the octopus (or squid) living in the sea, guarded by the alahe‘e living on land.”
Hawaiians believed that one species’ degradation would lead to its counterpart's decline. “They’re considered the guardians of each other,” Sara said. “They cannot exist without one another.”
This belief of interconnectedness also shaped Hawai‘i’s ancient ahupua‘a, or land division system, which divided parcels from the mountain tops to the sea. Sara passes around a Maui ahupua‘a map as guests try to pick out the ahupua‘a in which their home or hotel is located.
The excursion continues past vibrant orange ‘ilima flowers and woody tangles of hau bush. Sara sheds light on the many uses of each plant – whether medicinal, utilitarian or spiritual – and captures her audience with gripping legends starring the flora.
“If you ever swim in freshwater [in Hawai‘i,] you have to watch out for someone known as the mo‘o wahine,” she says while the group gathers around a cluster of green ti plants.
The mo‘o wahine – which translates to lizard woman – is known to inhabit large pools of fresh water. “In order to check if she is home or not, you’re gonna take a leaf from the ti plant and float it right on top of the water. If it sinks, it means it’s not safe to swim. She’s home. She might drag you down with her. But if it floats, it means that it’s safe to swim that day.”
The tour moves into a shaded pavilion near the sea turtle exhibit. It’s time to learn about – and taste – the most vital Hawaiian plant of all: kalo. Also known as taro, kalo was once the main dietary staple in Hawai‘i and is believed to be the elder sibling of humanity.
As Sara passes around a platter of kalo, purple sweet potato and poi, Kahiau sits down before a lump of steamed kalo. Using a handmade papa ku‘i ‘ai (poi pounding board) and a pohaku ku‘i ‘ai (poi pounding stone), he begins to methodically beat the kalo until it turns into a gelatinous ball of poi. Kahiau makes the process look easy, but as the guests sit down for their turn, it becomes clear how much skill this practice takes.
After rinsing the starch from their fingers, guests filter off to explore the rest of the aquarium. The tour might be over, but the plant showcase continues at Seascape, the Maui Ocean Center’s onsite restaurant.
Seascape has long been a sustainability luminary in Maui’s restaurant industry, but now the restaurant is taking strides to craft inventive dishes using various canoe plants like ‘ulu and kalo. One such dish is the kalo poke nachos, which is made with diced and
fried kalo, avocado salsa, kukui nuts and kalo chips. When available, the diced kalo is sourced from a small māla (dry taro patch) located mere feet from some of the restaurant’s outdoor tables.
While public awareness of Hawai‘i’s native, endemic and canoe plants have dwindled over time, it’s not unreasonable to think that these species could experience a cultural and culinary renaissance – especially when organizations like the Maui Ocean Center
and the Seascape give them a platform. And perhaps this revival could lead to a renewed awareness of how our actions on land affect the ocean. After all, everything is connected – and the proof is in the plants.
The Hawaiian Culture and Plant Tour was developed in partnership with Maui Nui Botanical Gardens. A portion of each ticket sale goes to support MNBG. Tours are offered Tuesdays and Thursdays from 10:30 a.m. to 12 p.m. $34.95.
Tours at the Maui Ocean Center are as colorful as they are educational. Guests learn about plant species, their history and cultural stories, like the flowering ‘ōhi‘a lehua tree. Lucky tour participants are also invited to “taste” Hawai‘i with kalo (also called taro), considered the elder sibling of humanity. It is served on the tour with purple sweet potato and poi, which is made from kalo.
here’s a saying that inventors and entrepreneurs are mildly hallucinogenic because they often see things that aren’t actually there – only visions of what could be.
Ralph Hosmer – the Territory of Hawai‘i’s first Superintendent of Forestry – likely wasn’t on hallucinogens, but he did have grandiose visions of Hawai‘i’s next big cash crop: Timber.
Heather EllisonAlthough the timber industry never made it big, Hosmer, to his credit, wasn’t entirely wrong. Early 19th century traders made boatloads of money exporting ‘iliahi, or sandalwood, to China, and over 13,000 railroad ties were made from Hawaiian ‘ōhi‘a wood and shipped to California.
Unfortunately, that early timber trade left Hawai‘i’s forests in ruins, and so Hosmer devised a plan to bring it back – albeit with introduced species. He imported everything from eucalyptus to pine, but at the end of the day it just couldn’t compete with places like Oregon and California, which were flush with redwood and fir.
While the timber industry never got off the ground (economically, at least), you still can catch a peek of this era in Hawai‘i’s history on a shaded stroll through Waihou Spring Forest Reserve, near the top of Olinda Road above Makawao. Up here, at 3,900 feet, the air is still as cool and crisp as it would have been in the late 1800s, when all the trees disappeared.
Much of this area across Haleakalā’s slope was cleared for pastureland and cattle, and
though native trees, such as koa and ‘ōhi‘a, were likely once abundant, by the time folks like Hosmer discovered its importance, nearly every tree was gone.
Nevertheless, despite the clear cutting, which decimated the landscape, this area
high above Makawao town had one natural feature – Waihou Spring – that made it stand out as somewhere in need of protecting, restoring and help.
As one of the few perennial springs on Haleakalā’s western slope, Waihou, or “new water,” play host to fresh, cool water that percolates out of a natural amphitheater at the head of Kailua Gulch. The rugged ravine forms part of the reserve, where massive, moss-covered, emerald-green boulders are backed by the steady “drip, drip, drip” of water seeping from the rocks.
Most notable, however, aside from the beauty, is the network of tiny caves.
Native to Hawai‘i and listed as “threatened,” the vibrant ‘i‘iwi (honeycreeper) seeks nectar from blooming trees in the Waihou Spring area.
By the time that Waihou Spring Forest Reserve was created in 1909, Hāleakalā Ranch had bored tunnels into the cliff face to supply fresh water for their cattle. While the system of water delivery developed by the ranch is no longer in place today, some records suggest that Waihou Spring was capable of supplying Hāleakalā Ranch with 15,000 gallons per day.
By 1913, after the reserve was established,
Tree roots worm their way through the soft soil of the forest. A number of native and non-native trees blanket moss-covered rocks and the occasional openings to a network of small cave spaces.
Jason MooreAfter more than 100 years of growth, the trail forms an upland escape that transports hikers away from the Hawaiian Islands and into what seems to be a scene from the Pacific Northwest. Slippery leaf-covered switchbacks offer a more challenging hike for those with more experience. Sights among the different pathways include rocks that seem out of place and cut timber giants that have lived longer than the humans seeing them today.
and in an effort to bring back the forest, the ranch agreed to fence out the cattle, and in 1919, the Maui Agricultural Company set to work on reforesting the area. For the next three decades, even though early trials had proven that timber wouldn’t be economically viable, extensive planting took place at Waihou to bolster the greater watershed and bring in more clouds – and rain.
Now, after over a century of growth, this misty, short, family-friendly trail forms an upland escape that feels as if you’ve departed the Hawaiian Islands, and walked all the way to the Pacific Northwest, Sierra Nevada or Cascades. Were it not for the song of forest birds and a koa tree just above the gulch, you’d be forgiven for thinking the steep, snaking entrance road somehow crossed the entire Pacific.
Within minutes of leaving the parking area, and wandering into the trees, it’s as if you’ve entered a parallel world where kids (and kids at heart), explore the trail system through forests and meadows that burst with green.
Pine needles form a light brown blanket that covers much of the trail, which is punctuated by piles of dark brown pinecones, and the smell of coniferous bliss. Most notably, the trees are planted in rows, creating the sense that – despite being outdoors – you’re walking amidst something that’s somewhat unnatural; man-made nature, if you will.
Still, hikers who stroll into the forest are afforded three different hiking options, based upon not only their appetite for adventure, but also, leg and knee strength. The main trail is a “lollipop” route, where a single path leads in from the road, and then turns into a loop. Turn left; turn right – it really doesn’t matter, as you’ll end up back where you started.
The total trail length, should you hike the whole loop, is about 1.7 miles. The trail is mostly flat with small inclines, although factor in that up at this altitude, the air is a bit thinner than back down at sea level, so take some deep breaths, and take it slow.
For the intrepid, fit, and adventurous, however, you can embark on a spur trail that descends a series of steep, slippery, leafcovered switchbacks that lead to Waihou Spring. The reward, for the quad-burning descent, is the chance to experience a natural wonder unlike anywhere else on the island, where rocks the size of automobiles appear to have either dropped from the sky, or tumbled down from the towering cliffs that
rise around on all sides. It tacks on another 1.5 miles, but it changes the trip from “a walk in the woods” to a mystical journey back in time. There’s a sense of hidden magic down here, having seemingly discovered a fascinating nook where history, curiosity, and raw, natural beauty all combine to create a time-stopping moment that puts your senses on alert.
Birdsong, footsteps, the wind in the trees – it all seems louder as it echoes and bounces off massive, vertical walls. The sudden appearance, and abundance, of water creates a setting where the forest springs to life, where you can see the water, hear the water, even get rejuvenating smells of fresh water as
it fills the air that hangs all around you with a lung-filling nectar of life. Nature, in its glory, is happening all around you, yet there’s also a stillness that makes you feel small, since this setting, this moment, this grandstand of green, is completely indifferent to human existence; if we disappear, it remains.
While exploring the rocks and caves seems enticing, as part of the State of Hawai‘i’s Na Ala Hele trail system, the hike officially comes to an end when you reach the bottom of the enveloping gulch, since falling branches – particularly in high winds – can create dangerous conditions for exploring. So, too, have hikers slipped on the descent down into the gulch, so caution, courage,
patience – and good shoes – are strongly encouraged should you go.
At the end of the journey, once back at your car, having made the steep trek back up, you may even wonder, much like those visionaries, if what you’ve just seen is real.
Considering how different, unique and surreal this tucked away corner of the island
it can’t possibly be a place you just walked to – it all could have been just a dream.
To reach Waihou Spring Forest Reserve from Makawao, drive 4.8 steep, winding miles, toward the top of Olinda Road. There are no supplies, restrooms or trash cans, so pack it in, pack it out, and remember to leave no trace.
is,CHRIS ARCHER EXPLORES
MAUI FROM ABOVE.
By Mona de Crinis | Photographs by Chris ArcherClear and turqoise waters crest an outcropping of rock in this hidden gem in South Maui.
Alone red car snakes along the Road to Hana under a rich canopy of bamboo, seemingly engulfed in green as branches on either side embrace above the asphalt. Just around the bend, Chris Archer waits – his drone hovering hundreds of feet in the air.
He knows he has one chance to capture this iconic postcard image from above. It’ll never be the same again. Nothing on Maui is. “The island is a living, changing entity,” he explained. “The light, the clouds, the sand –it’s always different.”
Predicting what the island might do – a rainbow cresting atop a monster Pe‘ahi wave or the Upcountry crush of purple jacarandas in springtime – is one of Archer’s superpowers, along with spot-on instincts, fortuitous timing and a hunger for originality. In 10 short years, he has established himself among Maui’s most prolific and dedicated photographers, amassing an impressive collection of aerial photos shot by drone and helicopter.
Relaxing on the lanai of his Makawao home, Archer points to a weathered pad on a nearby table – his scribbled archive of ideas. “I’m always writing stuff down,” he said. “Locations, subject matter, equipment needs, composition.” In another room, kits for almost any photographic eventuality are neatly organized and ready for deployment.
A former jack-of-all-trades (welder, metal fabricator, bartender), Archer’s passion for photography sparked soon after moving to Maui 13 years ago when he wanted to share a singular island experience – the Milky Way crisply illuminated against Hāna’s dark skies – with his mom back home.
He studied, researched, practiced, experimented and invested tens of thousands of dollars in specialized gear – multiple cameras, lenses, battery packs, motorized sliders, dolly tracks – and the crown jewel in his gilded toolbox: a muscular DJI Inspire 2 professional-grade drone that allows him the greatest latitude to memorialize the island he loves through distinctive snapshot moments and rarely-seen perspectives.
Some mornings, he just loads up his Ford F150 with gear and follows the sky – an impulse that has netted Archer more than one stellar shot like a brilliant sunburst sweeping across thick clouds in upper Polipoli visible only from 15 feet off the ground.
Aerial photography showcases a seldom-seen perspective of Maui’s natural beauty. Photographer Chris Archer captures effortless golden light bathing ‘Īao Valley. Other moments in time brought to light include bamboo and hidden waterfalls along the Road to Hāna. No matter the terrain or time of year, previously secret spaces and their saturated colors and peaceful solitude are enjoyed without fear of disturbance.
In minutes, Archer can drive to a location, grab the drone, attach the propellers, toss the camera into the heavens, snap-snap-snap, detach the propellers, seatbelt it back into the truck, and continue hunting for hidden gems plucked from above.
Not far from the taro fields of Ka‘anae along Maui’s northeast flank, where the island plunges into the ocean in a jagged crumble, the shadow of an obscure palm creeps spiderlike across a tiny, inaccessible strip of beach. It’s one of those brief instances of elemental harmony – the sun, the palm, the angle, the surf – all in perfect alignment; an intimate gift from the island that Archer reverently accepts.
Perched on a rocky ledge, he flew high over the water, carefully navigating strong trades that could whip up whitecaps and take him down in an instant, steadied and positioned the drone, and captured the quintessential scene minutes before Maui’s next breath reshapes the moment forever.
It was a daring flight wrought with all manner of potential dangers: vegetation, wind, surf, cliffs. Archer’s previous drone drifted into some trees (“The only ones around, of course,” he quipped) and crashed to the ground when a solar flare disrupted the GPS connection, forcing him to scale a steep cliff to salvage the footage. An expensive lesson, he no longer operates the drone without visual confirmation and is therefore less likely to risk life and limb for a memory card of unknown merit.
When it comes to challenges – and there are many – Archer welcomes the opportunity. He long envisioned Hāna’s Kōkī Beach – one of his favorite haunts for land-based shoots – from a bird’s eye view like the ‘iwa, the great frigatebird revered as a guardian spirit in Hawaiian mythology, circling above.
Blanketed with dark red sand from nearby cinder cone Ka Iwi O Pele (“bones of Pele”) and naturally framed by aquamarine tides
and rust-colored cliff walls, Kōkī Beach was deserving of Archer’s lofty tribute. But he was always there when the ‘iwa were present. Conscientious never to disturb or upset wildlife, Archer kept returning, hoping for a brief, ‘iwa-free window to send up the drone. On the umpteenth time, his persistence paid off with a permanent capture of Maui’s fluid impermanence.
While photography has taken Archer to locations previously unknown to him, his innate curiosity would have driven his own on-island exploration – if only to glimpse the transient majesty of a Maui moment.
“It inspires me to go everywhere and document things as they are in that specific instance, before the wind knocks down a tree or a storm transforms a beloved beach,” he explained. “If one of my shots evokes emotion or inspires sentimentality, a warm memory of aunties, uncles and tutus in a Maui place and time now long gone, that’s worth more to me than any paycheck.”
Problems seem smaller and landscapes seem to stretch on forever when viewers peer down from above. The perilous action of surfer Kai Lenny shredding at Pe‘ahi Beach is caught up-close – motion, ocean spray and light refractions included. The dense and dark reef at Olowalu takes on new shapes, surrounded by cerulean waters, when seen from the sky. On land, the reaching horizon and the St. Joseph church in Kaupo share space in this snapshot. A winding band of pavement in Upcountry Maui demands attention as it snakes among purple budding jacarandas and new spring grasses.
The lesson of this Ha‘iku¯ home: Less can truly be more.
Melissa Newirth lives by one rule: “Keep it simple.” It’s a philosophy that guides her work as an interior designer, stylist, and curator/owner of Cloth and Goods, an online homeware store.
In 2015, when Newirth and her husband, David Johnson, decided to move back to Maui after a nine-year hiatus, simplicity would guide them again.
The two were living in Oregon at the time. David is a life coach whose practice grew out of years as a serious student of Buddhism. Melissa had a studio in Portland’s historic Film Exchange Building.
“We loved living in Portland, but I wanted to be closer to my kids,” she said. Both of Melissa’s children live on Maui: Naomi, founder and principal designer of Acacia swimwear; and Jamil, an attorney and cofounder of UVSC, a nonprofit organization that provides assistance to those battling cancer.
Then there was Naomi’s enticing proposition: Would Melissa and David like to go in on a two-acre lot for sale in Ha‘ikū? The trio came up with a plan: They’d build a main house for Naomi; Melissa and David would reside in a cottage on the property.
Back in Portland, Melissa’s studio had been across the courtyard from the offices of Jenny and Jeff Guggenheim, a husbandand-wife architectural team known for their minimalistic approach. Not long after purchasing the parcel in Ha‘ikū, Melissa picked up the phone and called them to ask whether they would design the cottage and a 1,600-square-foot multipurpose barn. Their answer was a resounding “Yes!”
Melissa’s top item on her wish list for the cottage was a streamlined design that would merge the indoor and outdoor living spaces.
When Jeff and Jenny debuted their renderings a few weeks later, Melissa was elated. “They nailed it,” she said. With its long and narrow shape, pitched roof, and exposed trusses, the 1,000-square-foot cottage takes its cues from the Scandinavian farmhouses and Japanese eel houses Melissa had always admired. To her delight, the architects hit the mark with a minimal, space-efficient layout that pulls the outside in: well-placed windows capture mountain and ocean views, and large Fleetwood doors open to three covered lānai.
The barn, too, was exactly as she had envisioned. Its tall and wide form juxtaposes
with the cottage’s low profile. The open floor plan lends itself to a workspace for Melissa, dinner parties and Sunday brunches with Jamil and Naomi. “I always wanted to have a barn for community events,” Melissa said.
The huge structure (the vaulted ceiling rises to 32 feet) has become an object of intrigue. “People driving by have stopped and asked us, ‘Is it a church?’ " Melissa said.
AS AN INTERIOR DESIGNER, Melissa sees a house as a blank canvas. Being the owner gave her the luxury of taking her time. The barn and cottage were completed in 2017, but when she and David moved in, they ate pizza cross-legged on the floor and slept on a futon tucked in a corner of the empty barn.
“I have to live in a place for a while to see how I’m going to furnish it,” Melissa said. “If this is going to be your home for the foreseeable future, take your time and do it right.”
The cottage reveals her penchant for combining modern and vintage décor. “I love the classics and tend to design with pieces that are not trendy, but will always be loved,” she said. White paint with a hint of grey is a perennial favorite, offering a clean and versatile palette for the furnishings and for the kitchen’s stainless steel appliances, Caesarstone countertops and white oak cabinetry.
To maximize the space, Melissa told the architects to forgo closets and had slim built-in cabinets installed in the hallway. In the master bedroom, she stationed a soaking tub not far from the foot of the bed to accommodate a walk-in shower in the master bath. “It’s a small space that’s functional, as well as aesthetically pleasing,” she said.
David, who discovered the virtues of simplicity while living in a Buddhist community in the 1990s, shares his wife’s affinity for minimalism. He was happy to step back and have Melissa take the lead on designing the home, but there was one request. “All I wanted was a place where I could sit and do meditation,” he said. The cottage’s guest bedroom fit the bill: David furnished the space with a floor cushion, bookcase, framed Tibetan text on the wall, and a Buddhist shrine in the closet. “It’s a place of refuge,” he said. “I have everything I need here.”
In the barn, a white oak table shipped from Denmark holds court on the main floor. Stairs lead to a second-story loft, where built-in cabinets along one wall store Cloth and Goods’ inventory. The barn also houses two workstations, a sunlit nook with a bed for overnight guests (or for Melissa after a late-night work session), and windows that look out to the picturesque landscape.
Nearby is Naomi’s 2,500-square-foot residence. A different architect designed it, but the house reprises the style of the cottage, and Naomi tapped Melissa to design the interior. The Guggenheims masterminded the layout of Naomi’s design studio, above the detached garage.
It’s only been six years since they broke ground on the property, but the family’s roots already run deep. “We’ve made some great memories here,” Melissa said. “I’m looking forward to making more.”
Even more natural light spills into the cottage's interior. High ceilings with exposed beams usher in a spacious feel. The accompanying barn shares the same feel and is used as a home for Cloth and Goods products.
Guggenheim Architecture + Design Studio (architects) Portland, Oregon | (503) 272-1566 GuggenheimStudio.com
Jurassic Stoneworks (countertops in cottage) 2000 Maui Veterans Hwy #28., Kahului (808) 873-7742 | JurassicStoneworks.com
MW Design Workshop (railings in barn) Salem, Oregon | (503) 364-6430 | MWDesignWorkshop.com
Melissa Newirth/Cloth and Goods (interior design)
Info@ClothAndGoods.com | ClothAndGoods.com
The Shade Store (window shades) (800) 754-1455 | TheShadeStore.com
Tulip Floors Richmond, California | (510) 558-2030 | TulipFloors.com
is just right, you’ve got the winning formula. Start with friends and former “Breaking Bad” co-stars Aaron Paul and Bryan Cranston Add their artisanal mezcal brand, Dos Hombres, a partnership of the two friends after the cult-favorite series ended. Mix in epic food pairings by Hawai‘i’s five-star, five-diamond Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, and the result is dazzling, indeed.
Yes, lovers of mezcal and Mexican cuisine may soon savor the collaboration between the A-list actors and the posh resort at Dos Hombres Cocina pop-up from Aug. 25 to Dec. 2 outdoors at the Fountain View Lawn surrounded by tropical gardens.
The new al fresco dining experience draws its inspiration from the birthplace of mezcal, Oaxaca, the sprawling southwestern Mexican state renowned for its mole and other cuisine. Four Seasons Wailea culinary team consulted with Oaxacan-born Scottsdale National Golf Club Executive Chef Mel Mecinas to create the menu.
“Similar to Oaxaca, Hawai‘i’s rich microclimates boast a variety of fresh produce,” said Chef Mecinas. “It’s been fun to discover synergies between the regions and create a dynamic menu that complements the list of vibrant Dos Hombres cocktails the team has created.”
and
Chef Jonathan Pasion pick fresh ingredients in the garden at Fairmont Kea Lani, which opened its new AMA Bar & Grill, featuring canoe culture, canoe plants and seafood.
Feast on scallop crudo, crispy chicarrón, mezcal-cured local snapper, special housemade mole and mucho more as you sip Dos Hombres mezcal made with espadin agave hand-selected from the hillsides of a small Oaxacan village. Sip the Mezcal Cantarito in a traditional clay cup; the Coco-Crush, brimming with cream of coconut and fresh lime from the Chef’s Garden; or opt for tequila-based drinks from the full bar.
Dining scene ‘Breaking Good’ with new pop-up, chef’s table, canoe culture, Wailuku eatery, Pāʻia coffee, more.
“We are both so excited for Dos Hombres Mezcal to collaborate with Four Seasons Resort Maui to create a pop-up Mexican restaurant, serving authentic Oaxacan food and exceptional mezcal cocktails,” Paul and Cranston said in a shared statement. “We could not be more thrilled that our brands have joined together to create this special experience on this island paradise.”
Dos Hombres Cocina will be open Wednesdays through Saturdays, 5-9 p.m. Reservations are highly recommended. (808) 874-8000.
Kea Lani is thrilled to launch a new dinner concept at its already wildly popular poolside restaurant. AMA Bar & Grill now features seafood specials and evening hours of the swim-up bar.
As the sun sets over the ocean, sip thoughtfully crafted cocktails, dive into the seafood platter with oysters, snow crab and
lobster tail; and raw ahi crudo and salmon nigiri sushi with yuzu aioli. Hot entrees also tempt – from Kauai prawns in spicy garlic and limu butter to miso-marinated cod.
Executive Chef Michael Lofaro’s culinary team proudly draws inspiration from the traditional Hawaiian outrigger canoe and the lifestyle it embodies. Ama is the outrigger on the canoe.
Just like in an island canoe culture, new AMA lunch menu items are all casual and meant to be enjoyed among friends by the ocean. Savor from lemongrass grilled shrimp bahn mi in a French baguette with pickled carrots, radish, cilantro, jalapeno and spicy aioli; to grilled fresh catch with furikake sushi rice, sweet soy, limu-tomato salsa and namasu.
PĀ ʻ IA BREWING INTEREST...With the legendary Charley P. Woofer restaurant a thing of Pāʻ ia’s past, it’s wonderful to see Pāʻia Bay Coffee & Bar stepping up to the plate to fill the town’s breakfast void. It also is drawing in hungry diners for lunch, dinner, Sunday Jazz Brunch and grab-and-go items. While Pāʻ ia Bay has been a tucked-away staple for a decade, it recently moved across Hāna Highway into the former Dollie’s in a much more visible location.
“We now have double the seating and a new menu,” said co-owner Sarah Lovetre “We couldn’t be more excited about our new, beautiful, open-air dining. Co-owner Danny Keevil and I can’t wait to show the town our true potential.”
The bigger Pā ʻ ia Bay boasts a bigger kitchen. Chef Greg Shepherd (who was a partner at Cow Pig Bun) and Sous Chef Ryan Averhart let you wake up to smoked salmon bagels; avocado toast with cherry tomatoes, arugula, sprouts, cilantro, radish and fresh lime; and loco moco with French onion-soup gravy and beef patty with sixminute egg over rice.
The Sunday Jazz Brunch features Mark Johnstone and Friends . Other regular events include the popular Trivia with Trish the Dish on Wednesday nights. Daily Aloha Hour from 3 to 5 p.m. features $5 off select appetizers such as poke, shrimp ceviche, hurricane fries and more.
Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort has reintroduced its Chef’s Table at Kaʻana Kitchen, which tailors meals to diner’s individual tastes. Top, Kampachi Crudo, one of Executive Chef Ritchard Cariaga’s farm-totable style signature pūpūs.Now at an expanded location, Pāʻia Bay Coffee & Bar is filling the town’s breakfast niche with open air seating and new allday breakfast menu that features the “LOCAL Moco” with Gruyère Swiss cheese, pickled red cabbage and french-onion soup gravy.
Island flavors dazzle the tastebuds at Montage
Kapalua Bay Resort’s Cane & Canoe, where a historically rich locale meets modern cuisine. Guests should also expect freshly-sourced ingredients.
MUCH ADO ABOUT WAILUKU... Located smack dab in the middle of Wailuku at 62 N. Market St. next to historic ‘Īao Theater is local favorite, SixtyTwo MarcKet Open for breakfast and lunch, it’s a big draw for its high-quality foods, casual ambience and moderate prices.
“Maui’s unique microclimates grant us the privilege of enjoying an impressive variety of produce,” said Chef-owner Marc McDowell. “From the juicy Maui-grown watermelons and luscious mangos to the sweet Kula corn and flavorful onions, each ingredient tells a story of the island’s fertile soil and vibrant agricultural heritage.”
This summer, seasonal offerings are refreshing mango-flavored yogurt, signature eggs Benedict with pesto Hollandaise, and mango ricotta cheese-stuffed French toast. Savory options are prime short rib brushed in mango barbecue sauce, packed in bao bun and topped with shallot-cucumber-carrot namasu and crispy fried onions.
“At SixtyTwo MarcKet, we take pride in providing a farm-to-table experience that celebrates the flavors of Maui. Our commitment to showcasing locally sourced produce ensures that every dish is a true reflection of the island’s culinary paradise.”
OUT KAPALUA WAY... A new à la carte menu has launched at Cane & Canoe, and word around West Maui is that it is rocking with flavors. Favorites include Ōra King Salmon with Meyer lemon risotto, local mushrooms, asparagus and arugula; Grilled Kona Kanpachi and Kauai Shrimp with hapa rice, green papaya salad, peanuts, and green coconut curry; and Duroc pork chop with apple-braised red cabbage, spätzle, caramelized Maui onion jam, and macadamia-nut gremolata.
“Hapa rice,” by the way, is kind of a yin and yang, half-and-half, black-and-white rice presentation. All of these entrees and then some are served at Montage Kapalua Bay’s signature restaurant. Executive Chef Eric Faivre and Chef de Cuisine Albert Sandoval are at the helm.
Fronting the Montage property is The Cliff House, a historic venue originally built in 1940. It is now available for private dining, corporate or social groups. Drink in panoramic sunset views in this private space over the water. Enjoy a Hawaiianinspired, multi-course meal with the option to enhance your experience with live music, custom décor, an extended wine list, and/ or photography.
After a two-and-a-half-year hiatus, Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort is pleased to reintroduce its popular Chef’s Table experience at the signature Ka’ana Kitchen restaurant. It
was bestowed with the 2022 ‘Aipono Silver Award from this magazine. Enticing with six courses and optional wine pairings, the Chef’s Table is tailored to your tastes.
Dine right in the heartbeat of the openair kitchen and chat up the talented culinary team led by Executive Chef Ritchard Cariaga. They slice, dice and sauté your meal right in front of you. Learn as you watch. There is limited seating Tuesdays to Fridays. Do make reservations, due to its popularity.
Sommelier Tia Hubbard may pour Billecart-Salmon brut rose, a most civilized starter, along with Karthauserhof Riesling,
Chef-owner Marc McDowell at SixtyTwo MarcKet ensures his dishes reflect the variety of fresh produce available, thanks to the island’s microclimates. Below, Breaking Bad stars Bryan Cranston and Aaron Paul are bringing their Dos Hombres brand of tequila to a new pop-up restaurant at Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea.
Pouilly-Fuissé, Barolo, a Super Tuscan and Royal Tokaji dessert wine from Hungary.
Chef de Cuisine Chance Savell impresses with kampachi crudo, grilled-octopus salad, and intermezzo of green apple celery sorbet with citrus crema and Royal Ossetra caviar; 40-day, dry-aged striploin; and the pièce de résistance of ube s’mores. Ube, or sweet potato, is all the rage these days in Maui desserts and ice creams.
“The menus are all six courses and customized for guest preferences and their dietary restrictions,” said Chef Cariaga. “Based on what is in season, I update the menus every few months.”
Ah, yes – Maui is “Breaking Good” these days with a culinary chemistry that is hard to resist, from the Oaxacan and mezcal cocina popping up to the tempting Chef’s Table experience.
Chris AmundsonWHEN MOST PEOPLE think of “farm to table,” they think of fine dining: candles and white linens, communicative servers explaining the origin of each menu item, and at the end of the meal, a big, fat check. Travis Morrin, along with his business partners Cody Christopher and Jaron Blosser, had a different vision.
What if supporting local agriculture was as fast and cost effective as getting lunch from Burger King? What would the impact be if Maui’s residents and visitors had healthier, local alternatives – all without breaking the
bank? Enter Fork & Salad, where eating local and healthy can be enjoyed by everyone, every day. With a farm-to-table approach, the restaurant proudly partners with local farmers and suppliers to bring the finest, Maui-grown ingredients to consumers.
A Maui resident all his life, Travis Morrin grew up seeing the need to make the island more self-sufficient. Morrin inherited his love for cooking from his mother: As the oldest of four siblings, he often helped her in the kitchen to keep everybody fed. After attending Maui Culinary Academy
at University of Hawai‘i Maui College, he began working at Longhi’s Wailea where he met his surfing buddies turned business partners, Christopher and Blosser. In 2009 they started Three’s Bar & Grill, an islandinspired restaurant and catering company in Kīhei’s Kalama Village. With their feet now wet in the business owner waters, the trio saw further opportunity to get more of Maui to eat more of the food that is grown here.
“Our mission became to fill that gap on Maui: farm to table with convenience, affordability, and a fast casual style,” Morrin said.
Owners Jaron Blosser, Travis Morrin and Cody Christopher create culinary works of art featuring healthy, fresh ingredients. Bright and sweet creations like the "papaya dream salad" with ripe Kula strawberries, dried cranberries and feta cheese delight even picky eaters.
Hawai‘i’s geographic isolation in the middle of the Pacific used to cultivate incredible selfreliance and sufficiency. Under the Native Hawaiian ahupua ' a system, Hawaiians worked, ate, farmed and fished within their localized territories, utilizing the natural resources available in sustainable ways.
Today, Hawai‘i is the biggest consumer of petroleum across the 50 states, according to the U.S. Energy Information Administration, one of the reasons being our reliance on the petroleum-fueled barges and planes that bring in most of our food and resources.
Fork & Salad rebels against that reliance by supporting local farmers, fisherman and products in each of its recipes – from Kumu Farms in Moloka‘i and Waikapū to Watanabe Farm in lower Kula. In recipes such as the Baked Ahi Melt, the restaurant uses an otherwise tossed cut, the ahi belly, from local fish suppliers and turns it into homemade tuna salad served with mac nut pesto, cheddar cheese, arugula, red onion, kimchee banana peppers, lemon-herb dressing and tomato. “We feel good about using a product that would otherwise be thrown away, and instead, making it into something delicious and serving it to the community.”
Fork & Salad offers more than 50 ingredients: five kinds of greens, 11 dressings and choices of surf, turf or vegetarian proteins that form a scrumptious list of healthy sandwiches, salads, soups and wraps. Since opening their first location in Kīhei’s Azeka Mauka back in 2016, Fork & Salad has since expanded to Kahului in the Ho‘okele Shopping Center.
If you’d like to give their menu a try, Morrin recommends the popular Maui Goddess Salad featuring romaine, Green Goddess dressing, apples, strawberries, Moloka‘i purple sweet potato and blue cheese, priced at only $11.50. Maybe voting with your fork (and salad) to support locally and eat healthier doesn’t have to be hard or expensive after all.
8 oz papaya seed dressing (see accompanying recipe)
1 lb fresh cleaned local arugula
1 cup diced fresh ripe Kumu Farms’ papaya
1 cup sliced Kula strawberries
1 cup edamame beans
1 cup dried cranberries
1 cup cooked wild rice
1/2 cup chopped and mixed cilantro and mint
1 cup feta cheese
1/2 cup salted sunflower seeds
Using a large mixing bowl, toss arugula with papaya seed dressing. Place in a large salad bowl. Top the freshly tossed greens with each ingredient. Work clockwise in clusters around the bowl. Serve immediately as a table centerpiece to accompany the main meal.
Serves 6-8
1 cup ripe papaya flesh (about half a papaya)
1/4 cup papaya seeds (about seeds from half a papaya)
2 Tbsp rough chopped white onion
2 Tbsp lemon juice
1 cup rice wine vinegar
1/2 cup agave or honey
1 Tbsp dry mustard
1 Tbsp kosher salt
2 cup pure olive oil
Add all ingredients except oil to a blender. Blend on medium-high until seeds are ground finely, about 1 minute. Slowly stream in olive oil until dressing is thick and fully emulsified. Store in airtight container like a mason jar for up to 10 days.
Makes 40 oz.
Fork & Salad MauiMaui Gold pineapple, raw candy or golden beets, mandarin oranges and fresh local spinach work together in this quick salad recipe to elevate an already healthy treat to a tasty one, too.
Beet & Goat Cheese Salad
Fork & Salad owners Travis Morrin, Cody Christopher and Jaron Blosser created this papaya salad to highlight pink Sunrise Papaya, grown on Moloka‘i by Kumu Farms.
8 oz papaya seed dressing (see accompanying recipe)
1 lb fresh local spinach
1 cup sliced roasted beets (see accompanying recipe)
1 cup shaved raw candy or golden beets
1 cup mandarin oranges
1 cup cubed Maui Gold pineapple
1 cup cooked wild rice
1 cup shaved green apple
1 cup toasted cashews
1 cup goat cheese
To make roasted beets
Place 1 lb unpeeled whole red beets (without tops) in a shallow roasting pan, drizzle with olive oil, add one cup of water to pan. Cover tightly with foil and roast at 350 degrees for 45 minutes or until tender when pierced with a knife. Cool, peel and slice for service.
To make salad
Using a large mixing bowl, toss spinach with papaya seed dressing. Place in a large salad bowl. Top the freshly tossed greens with each ingredient. Work clockwise in clusters around the bowl. Serve immediately as a table centerpiece to accompany the main meal.
Serves 6-8
These Maui farms and businesses provide ingredients and products to Fork & Salad.
Aloha ‘Āina Organics
Escobedo Farms
Evonuk Farms
Home Maid Bakery
Kahanu ‘Āina Greens
Kamuela Farms
Kumu Farms
Mā’alaea Farms
Maui Gold Pineapple
Otani Farms
Sugarland Farms
Pauwela Beverage Co.
Watanabe Farms
Kamaile Farms
Kula ‘Āina Farm
Maiden Hawai’i Naturals
Maui Nui Farm
Oby’s Farm
B=Breakfast BR=Brunch L=Lunch H=Happy Hour D=Dinner N=Dinner past 9 p.m. R=Reservation recommended $=Average entrée under $15 $$=Under $25 $$$=Under $40 $$$$=$40+ =Gold & Silver 2022 ‘Aipono Restaurant Award winners =Live music! Check venue website for information. Phone numbers are area code 808.
A‘A ROOTS Nāpili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Ste. 3, Nāpili, 298-2499 Vegan cuisine made with the freshest Maui produce. Try the açai bowl, soba bowl with peanut sauce, or bagel sandwich with hummus, avo and veggies. International. B, L, $
ALALOA LOUNGE The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, 1 Ritz Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200 Creative farm-to-table cocktails, mocktails and an exciting selection of savory dishes from the dining menu, such as huli huli chicken, sushi and stoneoven pizza. International. D, $-$$
AMIGO’S 658 Front St., Lāhainā, 661-0210 Real Mexican fajitas, tostadas, flautas and their famous wet burritos. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D, $
AUNTIE’S KITCHEN The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3259 Saimin, burgers and fresh-fish plate lunches mingle with 2020 ‘Aipono Award-winning poke. Local Mixed Plate. B, L, D, $-$$
BANYAN TREE The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., 665-7096 Start with an heirloom tomato salad with buffalo mozzarella. Then a Hawaiian cioppino full of treasures from the sea in a tomato-fennel broth, or lobster agnolotti. End with warm Valrhona chocolate cake. Great cocktails, too! Italian/Hawai‘i Regional. D, $$-$$$$
BREAKWALL SHAVE ICE COMPANY The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., #104, Lāhainā, 661-4900 Grown-up shave ice? You bet! Cool off with one of the best snow cones on Maui and discover your favorite flavor. Treats. $
BURGER SHACK The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200 Al fresco beachside joint serving burgers, milkshakes, cocktails and beer. Try the alcoholic milkshakes. American, L, $$
CANE & CANOE Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681 Try the avocado toast and mimosas for breakfast, and prime select steaks with horseradish crème fraÎche for dinner. Lunch at the in Hāna Hou Bar includes Wagyu bacon-cheddar burgers and vegetarian selections. Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D, $$$-$$$$
CHAMPAGNE HALE AT CLIFF HOUSE Montage
Kapalua Bay, One Bay Drive, Lāhainā, 662-6627
Seasonal pop-up bar perfect for experiencing Maui sunsets. Enjoy select Champagnes paired with chef-inspired fare. Mondays and Wednesdays, 4:30 p.m. and 6:30 p.m. Over 21, reservations required. International/Pacific Rim. H, R, $$$$
CHEESEBURGER IN PARADISE 811 Front St., Lāhainā, 661-4855 Wake up to oceanfront views with a cuppa joe and a luscious breakfast. For lunch, try the poke, wings, onion rings or a signature cheeseburger. For dinner: the Aloha Fish and Fries. International. B, L, D, $-$$
CHOICE HEALTH BAR 1087 Limahana Pl., #1A, Lāhainā, 661-7711 Second West Maui location: Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali All juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are made with fresh ingredients. Daily specials. American. B, L, $
CLIFF DIVE GRILL Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031 Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish tacos to accompany your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $-$$
THE COFFEE STORE Nāpili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 669-4170 Stop in for coffee and a muffin and you may just end up staying for lunch – or longer. (They’re open until 6 p.m.) Great service, fresh-baked goods, yogurt-granola parfaits, chia pudding and to-go items. Coffee Shop. B, L, D, $
COOL CAT CAFÉ The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-0908 Burgers, chicken, fresh fish, tacos and more in a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $
DOWN THE HATCH The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., Lāhainā, 661-4900 Mermaid fries with cheese and lava sauce, towering shrimp cocktails, fresh island fish and lots of aloha. Great shave ice, too! (See Breakwall’s listing.) Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D, N, $$
DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$
DUCKINE 1312 Front St., Lāhainā, 451-2778 Chinese local fusion menu led by Executive Chef/Owner Alvin Savella featuring duck, fresh fish and pork, plaired with a Chinese-Hawaiian apothecary cocktail menu with Asian and island herbs, fruits. Asian Fusion. L, D, N, $$$
DUKE’S BEACH HOUSE MAUI Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900 Imagine old Hawai‘i while dining on crab-and-macadamia-nut wontons or prime rib at this open-air beach house. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$
FEAST AT LELE 505 Front St., Lāhainā, 6675353 This classic beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$
FLEETWOOD’S ON FRONT ST. 744 Front St., Lāhainā, 669-6425 (Yes, that Fleetwood!) Pacific oysters with tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome and a one-pound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. Bar opens at 2 p.m. American/British Pub Food. L, H, D, N, $$-$$$$
FOND Nāpili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., #115, Nāpili, 856-0225 Breakfast silog bowls with garlic fried rice, sammies for lunch, Wednesday night friedchicken special and Sunday Chef’s Table. Eurasian. B, L, D, $-$$
THE GAZEBO Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Nāpili, 669-5621 Have breakfast for lunch, or lunch for breakfast! Fluffy pancakes, omelets, plate lunches with Cajun-spiced chicken or kālua pork, salads and seven burgers to choose from. Ocean views are free! International. B, BR, L, $
HONOLUA STORE 502 Office Rd., Kapalua, 6659105 Market in the Kapalua Resort with extensive selection of grab-and-go items like salads, sandwiches and sushi. Made-to-order pizzas, burgers, hot sandwiches and breakfast items are also available.
Deli, B, L, $-$$
HONU SEAFOOD & PIZZA 1295 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-9390 Pizza, salads and awesome seafood entrees make this a go-to spot in Lāhainā. International. L, D, $$
HULA GRILL Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636 Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar, and enjoy poke tacos, mai tais, homemade ice-cream sandwiches and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $$
INU POOL BAR The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6370 Inu means “drink” in Hawaiian, and this poolside bar serves up island-inspired cocktails, local beer and wine. Sip and snack on pūpū, burgers, wraps and salads Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $-$$
ISLAND CREAM COMPANY Lāhainā Gateway, 305 Keawe St., Lāhainā, 298-0916 Classic flavors meet island fruit! Make your own Glacier Ice snow cone, or choose from 36 delicious flavors of ice cream. Can’t decide? Take home a few pints! Treats. $
ISLAND PRESS COFFEE 2580 Kekaa Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-2003 Homey coffee shop in the Fairway Shops serving hard-to-find Maui grown coffee beans. Start your day with a cup of Maui Red Catuai and a breakfast croissant. Coffee, B, $
JAPENGO Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Great steaks and authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood are among the reasons Japengo won ‘Aipono Silver for Best Asian Cuisine in 2022. Japanese. D, N, $$$
JOEY’S KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474 Second West Maui location: Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 2145590 Start your day with macadamia nut pancakes or a kālua-pork omelet at Whalers Village, and end with dinner at the Nāpili venue. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $-$$
KĪHEI CAFFE Lāhainā Gateway Plaza, 305 Kiawe St., Lāhainā, 868-2230 See South Shore listing.
KIMO’S 845 Front St., Lāhainā, 661-4811 Hula pie, anyone? Go for a poke and avocado stack followed by Kimo’s signature prime rib. Oceanfront dining. Pacific Rim, L, D, $$$
LĀHAINĀ GRILL 127 Lāhaināluna, Rd., Lāhainā, 667-5117 Treat yourself to a pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad, sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with jasmine rice, or their famous Kona coffee-roasted rack of lamb with coffee-cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selection and cocktails, too! American/Pacific Rim. D, R, $$$$
LĀHAINĀ PIZZA COMPANY 730 Front St., Ste. 2, 661-0700 Known for its killer deep-dish pies, this venue tied for the 2022 Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Pizza. You can also enjoy sandwiches, salads, pasta and a great selection of libations. Italian/ American. Pizza. L, D, $-$$
LEILANI’S ON THE BEACHWhalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495 Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors with guava chicken wings, and ‘ahi poke with taro chips. Entrees include filet mignon with green onion gremolata or Parmesancrusted fresh catch. Don’t forget the Hula Pie! Kidfriendly. Steak/Seafood. L, H, D, N, $-$$$$
LEODA’S KITCHEN & PIE SHOP 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600 Try the house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread with pineapple coleslaw and an ice-cold beer. The mac-nut chocolate cream pie and fresh-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance! American. B, L, D, $
LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE 624 Front St., Lāhainā, 868-3476 This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. See also South Shore listing. Kid-friendly. Treats. $
LONGHI’S Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 100 Nohea Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-2288. Try a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemon-feta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. BR (Fri-Sun), D, $$
MACADANGDANG 2580 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali 868-0929 Award-winning chef Joey Macadangdang serves a menu like no other! Try the braised duck kare-kare with eggplant in peanut sauce, the mahimahi in lemongrass-oyster cream or the ribeye steak with pepper demi-glace. Great cocktails, too! Filipino Fusion/Sushi. H, D, $-$$$
MĀLA OCEAN TAVERN 1307 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-9394 Māla delivers delicious food and killer cocktails. Start with an oyster shooter and some ‘ahi bruschetta. Then dig into seared scallops with truffle pesto, huli huli chicken with warm potato salad, or the daily catch with kabocha puree. Mediterranean. BR, H, D, N, $-$$$
MAUIGROWN COFFEE CO. STORE 277 Lāhaināluna Rd., Lāhainā, 661-2728 Running low on energy? Head to MauiGrown’s plantation-style hale for a boost. Pumpkin bread and other baked goods round out a great cuppa joe. Coffee Shop/Cafe. B, L, $
MERRIMAN’S KAPALUA 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua, 669-6400 Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create the most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. BR (Sun), L, D, R, $$-$$$$
MISO PHAT SUSHI Kahana Manor, 4310 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #111, Kahana, 669-9010 See South Shore listing.
MOKU ROOTS 335 Keawe St., Lāhainā, 214-5106
This innovative vegan/vegetarian venue won the 2022 Gold ‘Aipono for Best Healthy Fare, as well as the coveted Excellence in Sustainability-Restaurant Award. Vegetarian/Vegan. B, L, D, $
MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763 See South Shore listing.
MYTHS OF MAUI LŪ‘AU Royal Lāhainā Resort, 2780 Keka'a Dr., Lāhainā, 877-273-7394 Enjoy all you can eat Hawaiian fares like kālua pork, Moloka‘i sweet potato and fresh fish. Menu also includes keiki friendly choices like chicken nuggets and baked mac and cheese. Lū‘au, D, $$$$
OLD LĀHAINĀ LŪ‘AU 1251 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-0700 This oceanfront venue has won the Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Lū‘au 19 times – come see why! Begin with kalo (taro) hummus, then choose a traditional Hawaiian dish such as lomilomi salmon or imu-roasted pork. Save room for the mangococonut chcolate bombe! Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$
PACIFIC’O ON THE BEACH 505 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-4341 Owner Louis Coulombe and managing partners Michele and Qiana DiBari (of Sale Pepe) reimagined this beachfront venue with a new menu by chef Isaac Bancaco. Try the cacio e pepe pasta, Kobe beef short ribs or herb-crusted ‘ahi. Pacific Rim. D, $-$$$
PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 632 Front St., Lāhainā, 662-3456 See North Shore listing.
PAPA‘AINA Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf St., Lāhainā, 661-3636 Bravo’s Top Chef competitor Lee Anne Wong makes simple food from scratch using fresh, locally grown ingredients. Visit the new grab-and-go counter for early morning coffee and eats! Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $-$$
PIZZA PARADISO MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929 Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D, $-$$
PRISON STREET PIZZA 133 Prison St., Lāhainā, 662-3332 East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Italian/Pizza. L, D, $
ROY’S 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999 Line up for the half-pound Maui Cattle Co. burger on a brioche bun for lunch. For dinner, try the blackened ‘ahi or the honey-mustard-glazed beef short ribs. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$$
ROYAL OCEAN TERRACE RESTAURANT Royal Lāhainā Resort & Spa, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-3611 Breakfast offerings include loco moco and eggs Benedict, or go light with avocado toast topped with microgreens. Burgers and prime rib, too. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $-$$
SALE PEPE 878 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-7667 Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily. Enjoy pancetta and ceci puree on grilled crostini and house-made strozzapreti pasta – just like chef Michele Di Bari’s mama makes in Italy. Good Italian wines and beer. Italian/ Pizza. D, $$
SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR
600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286 Small and action-packed, D.K. Kodama’s classy sushi bar draws lines late into the night. Try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a sip of sake. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, R, $$$
THE SEA HOUSE RESTAURANT Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-1500 Start the day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp as the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesdays, stay for Grammy Award-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack-Key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$
SON’Z STEAKHOUSE Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506 Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce will rock your evening. Sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/Steak. H, D, N, $$-$$$$
STAR NOODLE 1285 Front St., Lāhainā, 6675400 Big-city style and local flavors unite. Enjoy a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea as you drink in the view of Lāna‘i across the channel. The ramen broth is extra smoky, the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D, $$
SUNSET LŪ‘AU AT KAPALUA BAY Montage at Kapalua Bay 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6627 This twice-weekly lū‘au caps at just 40 guests for an intimate experience. Dig into plates of ‘ulu mac salad, ribeye and kanpanchi poke. Lū‘au, D, R, $$$$
TALES OF THE KAPA MOE LŪ‘AI The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, One Ritz-Carlton Drive, Lāhainā, 665-7089 Showcasing traditional life through hula, storytelling, fire-knife dance and more. Buffet-style feast includes whole roasted pig, huli huli chicken, poke bar and vegetarian options. Tuesdays and Fridays, 5:30-8:30 p.m. Lū‘au D, R, $$$$
TAVERNA 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426 House-made pasta, agrodolce-style fish of the day and Italian desserts stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Great wine, cocktails and craft beer. Italian. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$
TEDDY’S BIGGER BURGERS 335 Keawe St., Lāhainā, 661-9111 The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $
THAI CHEF Old Lāhainā Center, 878 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-2814 This well-loved venue keeps diners coming back. Commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls and beef salad with tangy sauce. Thai. L, D, $
TOMMY BAHAMA MARLIN BAR 900 Front St., Lāhainā, 500-6204. Blackened mahimahi tacos, furikake and sriracha-aioli tater tots, and world-famous coconut shrimp. Great drinks, too! Pacific Rim. L, H, D, $-$$
ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 790 Front St., Lāhainā, 877-3700 and Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali Homemade tropical-flavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Kid-friendly. Treats. $
‘ŪMALU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4902 Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lāhainā’s rowdy whaling past. American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, $$$
WAIKIKI BREWING COMPANY 900 Front St., Lāhainā, 856-0036 Paddy’s Irish Stout and Waikele Wheat brew temper the heat of the jalapeño queso dip served with a giant pretzel. Try the smoked Kona-coffee-rubbed beef brisket and cheddar potato cake. American. BR, L, D, $-$$
WAILELE POLYNESIAN LŪ‘AU Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Parkway, Lāhainā, 661-2992 Sunset lū‘au featuring Polynesian entertainment and fire dancers on Kā‘anapali Beach. Menu runs the gamut of traditional Hawaiian and contemporary island fares. Lū‘au, D, $$$$
AKAMAI COFFEE COMPANY 1325 S. Kīhei Rd., #100, Kīhei, 868-3251 and 116 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 868-0003 Offering 100 percent Maui-grown coffee roasted locally for the highest-quality flavor. Espresso, French press and nitro brews available. Coffee Shop. $
AMA BAR & GRILL Fairmont Kea Lani, 41 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100 Inspired by the ocean and outrigger lifestyle, AMA Bar & Grill specializes in fresh delights from the sea. Serving lunch and dinner with swim-up bar open 10:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Seafood/Pacific Rim. L, D, $$-$$$
AMIGO’S 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, See also West Maui listing.
THE BIRDCAGE BAR HOTEL Wailea, 555 Kaukahi, St., Wailea, 874-8581 Elegant, high-ceilinged space in the Hotel Wailea. Tapas, small plates, wine and an extensive list of craft cocktails. D, N, $$$
BISTRO MOLOKINI Grand Wailea Maui Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 A casual, openair eatery serving organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips and grilled mahimahi made with fresh, local ingredients. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $$$
BOTERO LOUNGE Grand Wailea Maui Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Named for the surrounding Fernando Botero sculptures, this lounge offers nightly entertainment. On Thirsty Thursdays, a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. Lounge. L, D, H, N, $
CAFE O’LEI 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368 Choose from macadamia nut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites. See also Central listing. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$
COCONUT’S FISH CAFE Azeka Shopping Center
Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979 and 2463 S. Kīhei Rd. Kīhei, 875-4949 Dive into fresh fish tacos, a grilled fish burger or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D, $$
DA KITCHEN 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Ste. E, Kīhei, 4463486 Local food and good vibes meet! Spam musubi, chicken katsu, kalbi ribs, locomoco and da Hawaiian plate. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $-$$
DIAMONDS ICE BAR & GRILL 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei 874-9299 Casual watering hole with live music, billiards, TVs and darts. Daily food and drink specials, outdoor seating and late-night offerings. American. B. L. D. $$
DUO STEAK AND SEAFOOD Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8748000 Breakfast buffet or à la carte? Did someone mention chateaubriand? Four Seasons never disappoints. Pacific Rim. B, D, $-$$$
EKOLU KITCHEN1297 1279 S. Kīhei Rd. Ste. 201, Kīhei 793-3333 Craft cocktails and inventive international menu with fresh seafood, locally sourced smoked meats and wood roasted flatbreads. International. D, $$
FABIANI’S PIZZERIA & BAKERY South Maui Center, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888 Gagels and lox, fresh croissants, caprese salad with local tomatoes, thincrust and gluten-free pizza, and spaghetti with pork sausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. HR, D, $-$$
FAT DADDY’S SMOKEHOUSE 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711 Pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs smoked 15 hours over kiawe. Enjoy sides: cornbread, chili-garlic beans and two cabbage slaws: sweet/tart and blue cheese/apples. American. D, $-$$
FEAST AT MŌKAPU LŪ‘AU Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Upscale beachside lū‘au with an emphasis on Polynesian voyaging history. Known for its unique cocktails and artful, chef-crafted traditional Hawaiian plates served family-style. Lū‘au, D, $$$$
FERRARO’S BAR E RISTORANTE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8748000 For lunch, enjoy a veggie quesadilla or grilled tenderloin sandwich served poolside. For dinner, salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, H, D, $$$$
FORK & SALAD 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8793675 Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, gluten-free, dairy-free options. International. L, D, $
FOUR SEASONS LOBBY LOUNGE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Impeccable service, a locally sourced menu, swanky cocktails and performances by local musicians. Pacific Rim. H, D, N, $$$$
GANNON’S 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 875-8080 Order drinks at the Red Bar, then enjoy chef Bev Gannon’s fine comfort food: maple vinaigrette chicken salad, or venison atop Parmesan risotto. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$$
HAVENS 30 Manao Kala St., Kīhei, 868-2600
There’s a reason why this venue won ‘Aipono Gold for Best Burger in 2022: the smash burger and noodles. Eat it with chopsticks in one hand and burger in the other – local style! Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, $-$$
HOME MAID CAFE 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei 874-6035
Family-owned hole-in-the-wall known for its madeto-order malasadas. Classic breakfast plates, saimin and sandwiches. American, Local. B. L. $
HONOLULU COFFEE 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-6630 Hawai‘i's take on Starbucks, serving classic and creative espresso drinks and Kona coffee. Come for a cup of joe and a pastry, or purchase a bag of Kona coffee to take home. Coffee, B, $
The ultimate oceanside pop-up bar and lounge returns, featuring a wide selection from one of the world’s most prestigious luxury Champagne houses. Enjoy a front row seat to the finest Maui sunset, a glass of Champagne and an innovative pre-dinner menu.
MONDAYS & WEDNESDAYS
SEATING TIMES: 4:30PM & 6:30PM
FOR RESERVATIONS, CALL (808) 662-6627 OR VISIT CHCH-2023.EVENTBRITE.COM
HUMBLE MARKET KITCHIN Wailea Beach Resort, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655 Chef Roy Yamaguchi hits it out of the park with Hawaiian sweetbread French toast for breakfast, crispy calamari and a Magnum P.I. cocktail at happy hour, and Roy’s classic blackened island ‘ahi for dinner. Hawai‘i Regional. B, H, D, $-$$$
HUMUHUMUNUKUNUKUĀPUA‘A Grand Wailea Maui Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8751234 Idyllic restaurant constructed from Big Island ohia wood overlooking Wailea Beach. Menu features a balance of land and ocean sourced Hawaiian fares like Huli Huli chicken and miso butterfish. Hawai‘i Regional, D, $$$$
ISLAND GOURMET MARKETS The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055 Sushi to go, deli sandwiches, plate lunches and more. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $
KA‘ANA KITCHEN Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 A Wagyu hangar steak on a green papaya salad, charred octopus with local goat cheese, Kona abalone risotto, and a modern take on chicken and waffles. Curated wine list and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D, $$$$
KAMANA KITCHEN 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8797888 Eye-catching art and Indian relics accent a menu highlighting exotic spices and dishes, all lovingly created from family recipes. Lunch buffet. Indian. L, D, $-$$
KIHEI CAFFE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230 Hungry at 5 a.m.? Head to this local hangout for banana-mac-nut pancakes, loco moco and a cuppa joe. Cafe. B, L, $-$$
KŌ Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock” – three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock to sear them to perfection. 2022 ‘Aipono Restaurant of the Year. Pacific Rim. L, H, D, R, $$$
LEHUA LOUNGE Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea
Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Cocktails created with local seasonal ingredients, such as lychee, liliko‘i (passion fruit) and Hawaiian navel oranges, pair perfectly with Ka‘ana Kitchen’s award-winning menu. Lounge. H, $
LINEAGE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea
Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8800 If Cantonese lobster noodles and leeks, ginger and XO butter, crispy Korean chicken with pickles made in house, and Wagyu Kalbi short ribs with garlic rice get your juices flowing, head to Wailea. Eat. Drink. Talk story. Pacific Rim. D, $-$$
LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1941
S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779 Chill out with a mountain of fruity shave ice served with plantation erainspired add-ons like haupia (coconut pudding) and macadamia nut ice cream. Treats. $
LUANA LOUNGE Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100 This lobby lounge re-imagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try the kālua pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce and lomilomi tomato, paired with an ice-cold passion fruit ale. Japanese. D, N, $-$$
MANOLI’S PIZZA COMPANY 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499 Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into authentic chicken scaloppine. Italian/Pizza. L, H, D, N, $$
MATTEO’S OSTERIA Wailea Town Center, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466 Matteo’s meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Co. beef and Italian sausage, or ‘ahi crusted with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, H, D, $$-$$$
MAUI BREWING CO. 605 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 201-2337 This off-the-grid brewery offers 36 craft and specialty beers, as well as burgers, pizzas, fish tacos and salads. Brewery/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, N, $-$$
MAUI BRICK OVEN 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei 8757896 Gluten-free restaurant serving fish and chips, pasta and crispy thin crust pizza. Family-friendly space with kids menu. GF Italian, American. D. $$
MAUI THAI BISTRO Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-5605 Thai food cooked by Thai chefs! Kaffir-scented tom yum fried rice, green mango salad with crispy fried-fish filets, and house curries. Beer and wine bar. Thai. L, D, $-$$
MISO PHAT SUSHI Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476 Sushi served on-site, to-go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! See also West Side listing. Japanese. L, H, D, $$
MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Wailea Gateway Center, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322 Lunch at this Peter Merriman chain includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner, Big Island rib-eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage and banana cream pie. See also West Side listing. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, N, $$
MORIMOTO MAUI 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 243-4766
Headed by celebrity chef Masaharu Morimoto, this sleek restaurant in the Andaz Wailea fuses Japanese and Western fares; wagyu steaks, sushi and sashimi. Japanese American. L, D, $$-$$$
MULLIGANS ON THE BLUE 100 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 874-1131 Guinness poured properly at Maui’s only Irish-owned pub. Enjoy fish and chips, bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie. Great music and sports-bar action, too. Sláinte! Irish pub. L, H, D, $-$$$
NALU’S SOUTH SHORE GRILL Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650 Generous portions made with local ingredients served with aloha. Try the ‘ahi club with smoked bacon, fresh fish ‘n’ chips and hearty burgers. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $-$$
NICK’S FISHMARKET Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-7224 Enjoy classic seafood dishes beneath the stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. H, D, R, $$$$
NUTCHAREE’S AUTHENTIC THAI FOOD Azeka
Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840 Start with the ‘ahi laab tartare salad or crispy fish and mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D, $-$$
OAO SUSHI BAR & GRILL AT WAILEA 34 Wailea
Gateway Place, Unit A-101, Kīhei, 318-1602 Serving sushi, tempura, entrees and small-plate delicacies sourced fresh, organic, local and authentic (rice vinegar imported from Japan). Sushi/Japanese. L, D, H, $$$-$$$$
PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888 See North Shore listing.
THE PINT & CORK The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 727-2038 Mac ‘n’ cheese with black truffles, shrimp and grits with chorizo, poke bowls and burgers. During football season you can score breakfast, too! American. L, H, D, N, $-$$
PEGGY SUE’S 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 214-6786 Bright 1950s style diner with jukebox serving burgers, milkshakes and creative hot dogs. American. L. D. $$
PITA PARADISE Wailea Gateway Center, 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 879-7177 Start with spinach tiropitas with caramelized onions, feta, mozzarella and tzatziki wrapped in phyllo dough, then move on to kabobs, pasta and gyros. Finish with baklava icecream cake. Mediterranean. L, H, D, $-$$$
PIZZA MADNESS 1455 S Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 270-9888 Classic pizza joint with thick-crust pies, salads and wings in the heart of Kīhei. Open for dine-in, takeaway and happy hour. American, L, D, $$
THE RESTAURANT AT HOTEL WAILEA Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224 Produce from the hotel’s gardens, fish plucked from the sea, and a gorgeous outdoor setting are among the reasons this venue won ‘Aipono Gold in 2022 for Most Romantic Restaurant. European-inspired. H, D, N, R, $$-$$$$
ROASTED CHILES Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357 Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like chicken mole, pozole verde and langostino enchiladas with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, H, D, $-$$
RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880 Steaks and homespun side dishes worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list. American. H, D, N, R, $$$$
SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR Kukui Mall, 1819 Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-0780 See West Side listing.
SEASCAPE RESTAURANT Maui Ocean Center, 192 S. Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7068 Adjacent to an award-winning aquarium, Seascape serves up harbor views with a hearty side of aloha. Mahimahi sandwiches with fresh cabbage slaw, half-pound burgers and fresh veggies. Save room for Maui Mud Pie! American. L, H, D (Sat & Sun), $$-$$$
SOUTH SHORE TIKI LOUNGE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-6444 Gourmet pizza, burgers, salads and vegetarian items round out the menu at this hip bar. American. L, D, N, $
SPAGO Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Start with fresh poke nestled in crunchy sesame-miso cones, then enjoy the caramelized pork chop with exotic notes of anise, cinnamon and pineapple. Chef Peleg will have you singing his praises. Pacific Rim. D, N, $$-$$$
SUSHI PARADISE 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8793751 Small, sought-after sushi joint in Azeka Center. High-quality fresh sushi with generous portions. Reservations recommended. Japanese. D, $$
TANPOPO 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., #F, Kīhei, 446-3038 Lunch includes Japanese-style chicken curry, California rolls and beef burgers. Dinner fuses Italian and Japanese with pasta, flatbreads, sashimi, sushi and tempura. Japanese/Italian Fusion. L, D, $-$$$
THREE’S BAR & GRILL 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133 Eggs Benedict six ways, including seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon and prime rib. For lunch, Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen. For dinner, truffle-yaki marinated flatiron steak. Pacific Rim/ Southwestern. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$
TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT & BAR The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983 Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, N, $-$$
THE TREEHOUSE HOTEL WAILEA, 555 Kaukahi, St., Wailea, 874-0500 A unique dining experience tucked in the branches of mango and avocado trees. Seven course private chef dinner with wine pairings for up to six people (seated). Private Dining, D, R, $$$$
ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei See West Side listing.
VIETNAMESE CUISINE Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-2088 Start with shrimp spring rolls served with tamarindpeanut sauce. Then the grilled pork with pickled root veggies; a traditional clay-pot dish; or pho, steak and noodle soup. Vietnamese. L, D, $-$$
808 ON MAIN 2051 Main St., Wailuku 242-1111
Soup, sandwiches and salads in a stylish spot on Main Street. A Wailuku lunchtime favorite. American. L, $$
ALIVE & WELL (BROTH CAFE) 340 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-4950 Alive & Well’s revamped Broth Cafe is known for its health-conscious wraps, bowls, smoothies, bahn mi and salads. Go for a green burrito with purple sweet potatoes or try taro bahn mi and tan tan ramen for lunch. International, B, L, $-$$
A SAIGON CAFÉ 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560 Squeeze into a booth and order a Vietnamese burrito, clay pot, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D, $-$$
BA-LE 1824 Oihana St., Wailuku 249-8833
Vietnamese counter-service eatery with bahn mi, pho, plate lunches and fresh baked bread and croissants. Additional locations in Kahului, Kīhei and Lāhainā. Vietnamese. L, D, $$
BISTRO CASANOVA 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 8733650 This downtown bistro serves paella for two, fresh-cut french fries and burrata caprese. Best pau hana (happy hour) in Kahului! Mediterranean. L, H, D, R, $-$$
CAFE O’LEI AT THE MILL HOUSE Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 5000553 Fun, expanded menu at the restaurant group’s newest venue. The most beautiful mountain view in the Central Valley! Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, R, $-$$$
ESTERS FAIR PROSPECT 2050 Main St., Wailuku, 868-0056 Serving classic cocktails, tiki drinks, spirits, rum, mezcal, wine and beer. Local farm-to-tableinspired small lates. Rosé wine and daiquiries during happy hour. Open 2-10 p.m. Lounge/snacks. H, N, $
FORK & SALAD Pu‘unene Shopping Center, 120 Ho‘okele St., #330, Kahului, 793-3256 See South Shore listing
FUEGO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 633-4436 Cozy indoor and outdoor seating on the Dunes at Maui Lani Golf Course. Authentic Argentinian-style barbeque, pasta and sandwiches. Extensive list of cocktails and international wines. Latin-inspired. B, L, D $$-$$$
GIANOTTO'S PIZZA 2050 Main St., Wailuku 2448282 Bodega-style eatery with pizzas and homestyle Italian served with aloha. Italian. L, D, $
HAVENS Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., 868-0555 Enjoy the same smash burgers and sushi at this gourmet food truck. Plenty kau kau! See also South Shore listing. Food Truck. L, D, $
KING’S CHINESE BBQ 197 N. Market St., Wailuku 242-8848 No frills, counter-service joint serving Chinese BBQ and local favorites like saimin and spam musubi. Additional locations in Kīhei and Ha‘ikū. Chinese, Local Mixed-Plate. B, L, D, $$
MARCO’S GRILL AND DELI 444 Hana Hwy, Kahului 877-4466 Family friendly Italian-American diner with homestyle eats like meatball subs, vodka rigatoni and shrimp scampi. Classic breakfast plates available before 12 p.m. Breakfast, Italian, B, L, D, $$-$$$
MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-CUPS (2877) Pastries, muffins, salads, sandwiches, wraps, and bagels and lox made to order. Fresh-roasted coffee beans set this experience above the rest. “Happy Cappy Hour” 2-6 p.m. Coffee Shop. B, L, H, $
MAUI FRESH STREATERY MauiFreshStreatery
.com Kyle Kawakami, ‘Aipono’s 2019 Chef of the Year, also won for Silver for Best Food Truck in 2022. Imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L, $
MAUI TACOS 58 Ho‘okele St. Unit #530, Kahului, 793-3931 Chef Mark Ellman founded this Maui franchise in 1993. Known for island-style fish tacos, heaping burritos and trademark salsas. Additional locations in Kīhei and Nāpili. Mexican. B, L, D, $
MIKO’S CUISINE 1764 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 8682914 Small off-the-beaten-path eatery with Chinese, Korean and Japanese fares. Asian. L, D, $$
MIYAKO SUSHI 1883 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2440085 Sequestered Okazuya style sushi joint also specializing in antiques and local snacks. Carryout only. Japanese. B, L, $
MOMONA BAKERY AND COFFEE SHOP 7 E
Kaahumanu Ave., Kahului, 214-3589 Chic, spacious coffee shop serving fresh pastries, including cakes and Argentinian-style croissants. Come early for best selection. Latin-inspired bakery. B, L, $
MY THAI MAUI 230 Hana Hwy, Kahului 877-8887
Hole-in-the-wall eatery serving authentic Thai plates like tom kha, larb and pad woon sen. Favorites like curry, pad thai and bao are also on offer. Thai, L, D, $$
ONLY ONO BBQ Heritage Hall, Pā‘ia, onlyonobbq. com, 777-9026 Crispy-skin Chinese-style roast pork and duck, bao pork buns, plate lunches, smoked brisket. Location varies (see website for schedule). Food Truck. Chinese/American. L, D, $
SAM SATO’S 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 244-7124
This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L, $
SHIKEDA BENTO PATISSERIE 2050 Main St., Wailuku 500-2556 Japanese bento and patisserie shop located in the food court on Main Street in Wailuku. Get there early for a selection of bentos and colorful Japanese pastries like azuki cream puffs, matcha berry rolls and ube coconut shortcake. Japanese, B, L, $-$$
SIXTY-TWO MARCKET 62 N Market St., 793-
2277 Part market, part brunch joint with artfully plated eggs benedicts, frittatas and omeletes. Lunch time offerings include soup, sandwiches and salads. Silver medal for Best Business Lunch at 2022 ‘Aipono Awards. American. B, L, $$
THAI MEE UP Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591
Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369 Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles. Curry, too! Thai. Food Truck. L, D, $
TIGHT TACOS 349 Hanakai St., Kahului, 707-1221
Scratch great Mexican off your foodie bucket list! Get the three-taco plate lunch (braised beef, pork and shrimp) with corn, rice and salsa. Mexican. L, $
TIN ROOF MAUI 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 8680753 Sheldon Simeon of Bravo’s Top Chef fame builds memorable kau kau bowls filled with mochiko chicken or garlic shrimp. Try the saimin, kale salad, or double-fried-chicken sandwich on a brioche bun. Pacific Rim. L, $
TJ’S WAREHOUSE 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 244-7311 Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and a hot line of daily specials, like potato croquettes, nishime and poke. Asian. B, L, $
TASTY CRUST 1770 Mill St., Wailuku, 244-0845 A Maui mainstay since 1942 serving breakfast classics and island-style lunch and dinner. Cash or debit only. American, Local Mixed-Plate. B, L, D, $
THE EMPANADA LADY 2119 W. Vineyard St., Wailuku, 868-4544 Garden-like eatery in the heart of Wailuku serving authentic Puerto Rican fares. Puerto Rican. L, D, $$
TIFFANY’S 1424 Lower Main St., Wailuku 2490052 Revitalized local eatery helmed by celebrity chef Sheldon Simeon. Filipino, Japanese and localstyle fares. Pacific Rim Open for lunch on weekends. Asian, Local. L, D, $$
TOKYO TEI 1063 Lower Main St., Wailuku 2428848 Longstanding Wailuku staple with authentic Japanese fares in a family-friendly atmosphere. Japanese. L, D, $$
ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului Second Central Maui location: 50 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku See West Side listing.
UMI MAUI 1951 Vineyard St., Wailuku, 269-1802 and Food Truck, Maui Street Market, 150 Hāna Hwy., 500-8783. If a California roll topped with tuna, hamachi, salmon and unagi rocks your world, then chef Jayse Sato’s restaurant is your earthquake! Creative presentations, epic soft-shell crab bao buns. BYOB. Japanese. D, $-$$
WAILUKU COFFEE CO. 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259 Espresso, salads and sandwiches in a relaxed and eclectic setting. Coffee Shop. B, L, $
CASANOVA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 1188
Makawao Ave., Makawao 572-0220 Upscale Italian with fresh pastas, wood-fired pizzas and polished service. Italian. D, R, $$
GRANDMA’S COFFEE HOUSE 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140 The eggs Benedict and baked goods made from scratch are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onions. Coffee Shop/Cafe. B, L, $-$$
HALI‘IMAILE GENERAL STORE 900 Hali‘imaile Road, Makawao, 572-2666 Charming Upcountry restaurant founded by award-winning chef Bev Gannon reputed for fresh seafood, farm-to-table ingredients and must-try pineapple upside-down cake made from caramelized Maui Gold pineapples. Hawai‘i Regional/Local. L, D, R, $$$–$$$$
KULA LODGE 12500 Haleakalā Hwy., Kula, 8781535 Come for the beautiful views and manicured garden, stay for a farm-to-table brunch and woodfired pizzas. Now under 5 Palms management. American, Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$$
KULAMALU FOOD TRUCK LOT Kiopa‘a St., Pukalani, (next to Upcountry Longs) An eclectic array of fare, including vegetarian, plate lunch, açai bowls, barbecue and more. Food Truck. $-$$
LA PROVENCE 3158 L. Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313 Perfect croissants, fruit tarts, blueberry-mango scones and artisan breads baked fresh daily. Great coffee. Cash only. French/Bakery. B, L, (Weds-Sun), $
LUMERIA’S WOODEN CRATE 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579-8877 Fresh, locally caught fish and healthy fare highlight a menu that changes daily. Produce grown on site is the foundation for many dishes at this charming retreat. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R, $$-$$$$
MARLOW 30 Kupaoa St., A104, Pukalani, 8683366 Chef Jeff and Kaili Scheer know good food, and this family-owned restaurant serves wood-fired sourdough pizza, killer meatballs and rustic salads. Great wine menu, too! Italian. D, $-$$
MAUIWINE 14815 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 8786058 Enjoy wine tastings and light fare on the open-air lānai. Immaculate grounds surrounding the wine-tasting room. Winery. L, $-$$
POLLI’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao 575-7808 A Makawao cornerstone, this local watering hole is famous for its margaritas, Tex-Mex style fares and buzzy vibe. Mexican. L, D, $$
NUKA 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939 Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Creative lunch and dinner specials. Save room for black-sesame or green-tea ice cream! Japanese. L, D, $$-$$$
O‘O FARM 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’o for reservations, 667-4341 Learn about gardening and coffee roasting. Enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven and freshroasted coffee. Lunch includes chicken/fish entrees, veggies and dessert. American. B, L, R, $$$$
SATORI 3655 Baldwin Ave., Makawao 727-9638
Food truck serving healthy sushi hand rolls, ramen and inventive sushi specials. Cozy outdoor seating area in the heart of Makawao. Japanese. L, D, $$
ULUPALAKUA RANCH STORE & GRILL 14800
Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561 Deli fare, lamb burgers with tzatziki, and beef or grass-fed venison burgers. Plus, homestyle chili and rice, or kālua pork plate lunch. American. L, D, $
CAFÉ DES AMIS 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-6323 Savory crêpes served with wild greens and a dollop of sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney and raita (Indian yogurt sauce). Kid-friendly. Mediterranean. L, D, $
FLATBREAD COMPANY 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989 Big booths, a snazzy bar scene and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N, $$
HANA HOU SURF CLUB 65 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 7079752 Try a loco moco or açai bowl for breakfast, a poke bowl or burger for lunch. International. B, L (Fri & Sat), $-$$$
LIMA COCINA + CANTINA 71 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 868-0520 Airy restaurant serving artful Peruvian cuisine like saltados and ceviche. Inventive pisco-heavy cocktail list and late-night offerings on Fridays/Saturdays. Latin-inspired. L, D, N, $$-$$$
MAMA’S FISH HOUSE 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488 Famous for its beautiful beachside setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine, Mama’s evokes oldtime island hospitality. In 2018, this Maui institution became a James Beard nominee for Best Restaurant. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, R, $$-$$$$
NYLOS 135 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354 This six-course prix-fixe menu is created with the finest ingredients, like Osetra caviar, wild truffles and line-caught local fish. International. D (5 & 8 p.m. seatings), R, $$$$
PĀ‘IA BAY COFFEE 120 Hana Hwy, Pā‘ia, 579-3111 Featuring a new menu and larger location, this openair eatery offers an all-day breakfast menu plus lunch, dinner, grab-and-go items and popular events such as Sunday Jazz Brunch. Local/International. B, BR, L, D, HH, $$
PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 100 Hāna Hwy. Pā‘ia, 579-8030 Huge slabs of fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D, $-$$
TOBI‘S POKE & SHAVE ICE 137 Hāna Hwy., Pāʻia, 579-9745 A north shore go-to for heaping poke bowls and seared ahi plates. Or, cool down with a colorful shave ice with up to three flavors. Local, L, $-$$
VANA PĀ‘IA 93 Hāna Hwy. #3, Pā‘ia, 579-6002 Start with a liliko‘i mezcalita, then work your way down the menu and try the hamachi carpaccio, nigiri sushi, dragon roll, or black garlic-miso eggplant. Asian Fusion. H, D, $-$$
BAREFOOT CAFE 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732
Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or mahimahi plate lunch to-go. Pacific Rim. B, L, $
DA FISH SHACK 5260 Hāna Hwy., Hāna 269-3922
Your favorite island fish dish is on the menu at Da Fish Shack, from fresh fish tacos to poke and coconut shrimp. Not in the mood for fish? Go for a Paniolo burger with black angus beef. Seafood, D, $
THE RESTAURANT Hāna-Maui Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401 Hāna-sourced fish and local produce are the basis of this original menu. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juice. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R, $$-$$$$
September heralds the start of the Festivals of Aloha, a two-monthlong celebration honoring all facets of Hawaiian culture. This annual festival has roots reaching back over 75 years, first emerging on O'ahu as Aloha Week in 1946 before evolving into the statewide Aloha Festivals in 1991. Today’s Festivals of Aloha is a Maui Nui-only offshoot of the Aloha Festivals and hosts a range of engaging cultural celebrations across Maui, Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i each fall.
The Festival kicks off on Sept. 2 with a grand ho‘olaulea (celebration). Held in the balmy shade of the Lāhainā Banyan Tree, the free ho‘olaulea features a day packed with live music, keiki activities, hula, local eats and Maui-made goods for sale. The festivities continue on Sept. 23 at The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua for the esteemed Richard Ho‘opi‘i Leo Ki‘eki‘e Falsetto Contest. Now in its 21st year, the amateur falsetto competition perpetuates the art of leo ki‘eki‘e (Hawaiian falsetto) and honors the late Uncle Richard Ho‘opi‘i, one of Hawai‘i’s most decorated falsetto singers.
Throughout October, the Festivals of Aloha reaches Maui Nui’s smallest communities, hosting grassroots events on Moloka‘i, Lāna‘i and Hāna. Visitors can zip across the ‘Au‘au Channel on the Expeditions Ferry for the Lāna‘i ho‘olauela on Oct. 14 or drive the winding road to Hāna for a week of Hawaiian-style fun: Think parades, lei-making classes, talent shows and fishing and taro contests, held from Oct.
21-28. Meanwhile, the Hawaiian cultural showcase reaches its zenith at the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea Oct. 27-29. Visitors can expect Hawaiian exhibits in the resort ballroom, hula performances, an artisan market and daily live Hawaiian music.
“You’re going to see the most authentic Hawai‘i at Festivals of Aloha,” says event director Daryl Fujiwara, whose family has helped organize the festival since its inception on O‘ahu. Fujiwara says the festival gives visitors a look at local customs and traditions. “Especially if you go to Hāna,” he says. “You’re gonna eat with the locals and see what the locals enjoy … you’re gonna really experience our traditions.”
For a schedule of events, visit festivalsofaloha.com/events.
Darren McDaniels Festivals of AlohaA thousand years ago, Polynesian voyagers crossed the vast Pacific, relying solely on the stars, the tides and subtle signs from nature to lead them to their destination: Hawai‘i. They carried with them plants, animals, values and traditions. These seeds of life would become cornerstones of Hawaiian culture and transform Hawai‘i from a string of uninhabited islands into a home.
In September, the Fairmont Kea Lani and the Hawaiian Outrigger Canoe Voyaging Society of Kīhei will host the Gathering of the Voyagers – a three-day celebration honoring Polynesian voyaging and Hawaiian culture. Gathering of the Voyagers will bring together navigators, canoe carvers and practitioners from around the world and illuminate Polynesian voyaging culture through traditional ceremonies and demonstrations.
Wailea is a befitting location for a celebration such as this. Translated to “waters of Lea,” Wailea is named after the Hawaiian goddess of canoe builders, who would transform herself into an ‘elepaio (native forest bird) and swoop down from Haleakalā’s heights to watch over canoe builders on South Maui’s shores. Wailea was also a resting point for ancient voyagers traveling to Tahiti. This location was often their first and last stop when traveling through the Kealakahiki Channel between Kaho‘olawe and Lāna‘i, the gateway to the ancestral sea road to Tahiti.
Gathering of the Voyagers kicks off on Friday, Sept. 8, with a traditional E Ala Ē (cleansing) ceremony. Following the E Ala Ē, those on the beach can observe traditional cultural protocol as speakers, demonstrators and cultural leaders arrive by outrigger canoe. These ceremonies initiate a weekend packed with cultural activities, demonstrations and live music.
Activities include an immersive star navigation talk hosted by accomplished Hawaiian voyager Kala Tanaka, as well as a Tahitian dance competition and cultural canoe paddling at Polo Beach. Guests can also shop unique Hawaiian-inspired handmade goods at the Gathering of Voyagers mākeke (market). But the climax of Gathering of Voyagers occurs on Sunday morning when 15 outrigger canoes carrying guests and voyagers depart Polo Beach for a circumnavigation around Molokini. Participation in the voyage requires advance registration.
Gathering of Voyagers is free and open to the public. For more information and a schedule of events, visit gatheringofthevoyagers.com.
Gathering of the Voyagers encourages guests to take a paddle back in time and join others in celebrating a rich and important history. Earmarked by a traditional cleansing ceremony, this event draws navigators, canoe carvers and practitioners from around the world.
September-October
Maui Calls
Aug. 12 • Maui Arts and Cultural Center
If you like fine wines, gourmet foods and supporting a noble cause, then Maui Calls is the event to attend. The 26th Anniversary of the gala fundraiser for Maui Arts and Cultural Center in Kahului will bubble over with excitement.
This year’s theme is Celebration of the Navigator. Imbibe top-rated and boutique wines from around the country, tempting culinary creations from top Maui chefs and exclusive auction items. | mauiarts.org
The Green
Sept. 3 • Maui Arts and Cultural Center
The Green is one of Hawai‘i’s most successful bands, known for their hugely-popular island reggae hits like “Love I” and “I’m Yours.” Three of The Green’s six studio albums debuted at number one on the Billboard Reggae charts, and the band boasts myriad music accolades, including four Na Hoku Hanohano Awards. After touring extensively,
The Green is bringing their soulful, dubheavy sounds back to their home state for a special show at the Maui Arts and Cultural Center. | mauiarts.org
Fairmont Kea Lani/Douglas Hoffman (all)Kauluhiwaolele: Maui Fiber Arts Conference
Sept. 6-9 • Outrigger Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel
Twenty of Hawai‘i’s most esteemed master practitioner weavers will come together to share their vast knowledge of fiber arts with 150 students. Held at Outrigger Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, the annual Kauluhiwaolele: Maui Fiber Arts Conference aims to showcase and honor the many ways Hawaiian plant material can be used. Students must register for the four-day instruction, but the public is welcome to attend the pupu dinner, silent auction and Hawaiian craft fair on the final evening of the event. | kbhmaui.com/ kauluhiwaolele
St. John’s Kula Festival
Sept. 16 • St. John’s Church, Keokea
The St. John’s Kula Festival is one of the most highly anticipated days in the sleepy Upcountry community of Keokea. Now in its 39th year, the St. John’s Kula Festival features a farmers market, a silent auction, plenty of ‘ono food and live music from some of Maui’s best artists. The festival also includes a Kids Zone with bouncy castles, arts and crafts
and games. Festivities run 9 a.m.-4 p.m., and admission is only $1.
Hawai‘i Food and Wine Festival:
Ocean’s 13
Oct. 14 • Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa
This Hawai‘i Food and Wine Festival grand tasting event invites guests to dig into ten coastal-inspired dishes sourced from oceans near and far. Surf and turf bites are complemented by vintages by some of the world’s best winemakers and cocktails crafted by HFWF mixologists. The evening culminates with an epic firework show. This event is likely to sell out, so get your tickets in advance at hawaiifoodandwinefestival. com. 21+ only.
Maui Steel Guitar Festival
Oct. 14-15 • Shops at Wailea; Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center
The Maui Steel Guitar Festival shines a spotlight on a distinctly Hawaiian genre of music. Held at the Shops at Wailea and Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center, the event features five hours of free Hawaiian music by Maui’s top steel guitar artists. Guests can also enjoy the sweet sounds of up-and-coming keiki steel
guitar artists, as well as hands-on steel guitar demonstrations. 11 a.m.-4 p.m.
Hawai‘i Food and Wine Festival:
Livin’ La Vita Vino
Oct. 15 • Westin Maui Resort & Spa
Celebrate the tastes of Italy with a five-course wine-paired dinner at the Westin Maui Resort and Spa. Chef Yoshi Kizu will team up with Michelin-starred chefs to create dishes that transport guests to the Mediterranean. The Westin Maui is offering special room rates for festival attendees. This event is likely to sell out. Get your tickets in advance at hawaiifoodandwinefestival.com. 21+ only.
Habitat for Humanity Maui:
19th Annual Golf Tournament
Oct. 28 • Wailea Blue Golf Course
Habitat for Humanity Maui celebrates its 19th annual golf tournament, complete with an awards luncheon at Manoli's Pizza following the event. Participants of all skill levels enjoy swinging through a fun-filled day on the course, supporting a good cause. All proceeds from the event go toward building safe and affordable housing on Maui. Check-in at 6:30 a.m., shotgun start at 7:30 a.m.
PROFESSIONAL LANDSCAPE photographer Jenni Matthews knew she had found something special when she first visited a picturesque waterfall down a dirt road near Haʻikū in 1996. At the time she was only a teenager, guided to the spot by her best friend who lived nearby.
The cascading waters enraptured her. In 2019, Jenni’s nephew came to visit Maui, on a mission to propose to his then-girlfriend. He needed a special spot, and Jenni knew just where to take him.
As the couple’s wedding day approached, Jenni wanted to shoot and frame a photo of the waterfall to help the newlyweds remember where their journey together began. She visited the waterfall many times seeking the right water-flow and lighting conditions. Finally, Jenni captured the fall in all its glory, with tranquil blue waters, lush rainforest greenery and golden light courtesy of the rising sun.
Jenni has been looking at the world through a viewfinder since she was 8, when she got her first camera – an old-school 110 film point-and-shoot. As a teenager, she started shooting with a 35mm film camera, then purchased her first digital camera at age 22.
Finding waterfalls has become a part of life for Jenni and her husband, who go up nearly every stream on public land they can find. Sometimes the waterways lead to nothing; other times – such as this unnamed fall near Twin Falls – it’s a magical reward, “like hunting treasure,” she said.
“A Hui Hou” is the editors’ pick of readersubmitted images. Send your photo submissions to photos@mauimagazine. net. The next photo contest theme is “Palm Trees” for Nov-Dec 2023, deadline Sept. 15; the Jan-Feb 2024 theme is “Whale Breaches,” deadline Nov. 15.
“I GREW UP in Wailuku, in the same house that my paternal grandfather built. My mother's side was very active in practicing Hawaiian culture, so as a child, I was following after elders – literally, learning at their feet.
That gave way for me to be able to be where I am today. [My upbringing] gave me the cultural foundation that I stand on.
When I perform hula or sing or chant, and people are impressed and say, ‘Wow,' I often tell them, ‘It’s not me. My body and my voice is a mirror image of the generation that came before.'
How does that work? That's what I learned to do – somebody took the time to mold me to be able to do those things. This is a hallmark and a tradition of an oral society. Culture changes through the years though.
In the 1800s, the missionaries came here and promoted literacy for the sake of spreading Christianity. The Hawaiian Islands – like the rest of Polynesia and Native America – were oral societies; so all culture, history and language was memorized and orally passed from parent to child.
When the missionaries created the writing system, Hawaiians were fascinated by this idea that you could put information from your mind onto a paper, and then you could send it to another island, and your loved one could open it and read a message from your mind without you being present.
Hawaiians immediately recognized the value of literacy. By 1850 or 1860, Hawai‘i was one of the world's most literate nations. We have hundreds of newspapers written by native Hawaiians, and today they're digitized. We’re often finding new stories, place names and traditions. We have a lot of information recorded – oral tradition is locked into place but literacy helps our traditions to spread further.
Everybody is fascinated with surfing and hula. Those are products of our culture. They stem from who we are and the civilization we built on these islands. So how much of our culture is still practiced, versus in the 1800s? I guess my response is: Enough – enough of our culture is still perpetuated.
We have our language, our food, our crafts, our mannerisms. We have our celebrations. I feel like those are all the hallmarks of any culture. If a culture is truly living, then what is authentic? In every generation, it should shift and change to fit the lifestyle of that world that it exists in.
My biggest worry is that outside influences change the culture, versus change coming from an organic place. A good example of this is Disney creates a movie called ‘Moana,' right? It's a great movie and everything but now a whole new generation of children think that is an accurate depiction of Hawaiian culture. They [Disney] just combined all Polynesian cultures together to make a new thing but children don't know that.
Now the world is getting a new perspective of who Maui is, but that perspective is not coming from culture. We have been passing down stories of Maui for generations but this Maui is different. I think cultures are meant to change and evolve; however, the issue is for what reasons they're evolving and who's evolving it. Let Hawai'i be, grow and evolve in her own way.
There's something about Hawai‘i – like learning the Hawaiian language – that is powerful. That is the reason why Maui is so attractive to people. The outside world thought it was just the beaches they liked, but in reality something else is drawing them to these islands. It has to do with the depth and wealth of our culture.
So many of our teachings are based on ideas like love, patience, gratitude – you can't help but feel good when you're here. What you’re feeling when you’re here – it’s our aloha spirit, our culture. And it comes with a great depth. So, learn more, embrace Hawai'i and her uniqueness and let her embrace you."
Moore
“There's something about Hawai'i –like learning the language – that is powerful."