Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine March-April 2016 by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine

SPECIAL ISL AND LIVING SECTION MAUI NŌ K A ‘OI MAGAZINE

 MARCHAPRIL 2016 

MAUI’S SMALL TOWNS

Finding their hidden gems

GREAT EATERIES

off the beaten track

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VOL. 20 NO. 2

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Evolution has a field day

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features 28 » adventure/ hawaiian soul

TIME TRAVELER Using high tech to explore Lāna‘i’s distant past ~ By Kyle Ellison

38 » mālama ‘āina

about our cover A few more steps, and it’s a long way down—which never stopped Maui’s last chief, Kahekili, from leaping into the sea from this cliff on Lāna‘i’s Kaunolū coast. A new app takes you there. See story on page 28. Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Lāna‘i/Rick Collins

HAWAI‘I’S CURIOUS CRITTERS What happens when evolution has a field day? By Zach Pezzillo & Judy Edwards

44 » island style

UNDER CONSTRUCTION Life is a work in progress. Dress for it. By Conn Brattain

 ISL AND LIVING 

MNKO pages 51–82

 2 » at home

THE ULTIMATE ART PROJECT When home is your canvas ~ By Heidi Pool

 12 » great finds CURRENT MOOD Dip into cool blues inspired by the ocean. Compiled by Conn Brattain

 15 » maui style MAUI’S SMALL TOWNS Local residents say what’s best about the places they call home. By Lehia Apana & Heidi Pool

 28 » real estate trends

UNDERSTANDING AFFORDABLE HOUSING A&B’s latest residential venture offers a groundbreaking opportunity. Are you ready? By Diane Haynes Woodburn

Alyssa Hudson of Larson Talent models this birdof-paradise print wrap dress by Karina Grimaldi, $267; Zuni “Summer Squash” turquoise and sterling necklace, $700; Navajo turquoise and sterling bracelet, $310; vintage Native American turquoise and sterling ring, $260. All at Nuage Bleu in Pā‘ia. See fashion story on page 44. Photo by John Giordani

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departments

14 » contributors It takes a lot of talents to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

16 » publisher’s note By Diane Haynes Woodburn

18 » talk story Fresh off the coconut wireless ~ By Lehia Apana, Kathy Collins, Rita Goldman & Shannon Wianecki

108 » calendar of events What’s happening where, when, and with whom

111 » who’s who Seen making the scene on Maui

114 » looking back GOODBYE, SUGAR By Rita Goldman

« DINING » 86 » dining feature WINNING PERFORMANCE Wine and food costar at The RitzCarlton’s Banyan Tree restaurant. By Becky Speere

The Banyan Tree’s seared day-boat scallops on cauliflower purée. Story on page 86. Photo by Mieko Horikoshi

92 » dining highlights OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Great little dining spots you didn’t expect to find. Need a map? Start here. By Becky Speere

94 » becky’s backyard

THIS ISSUE ONLINE

Web-exclusive content at MauiMagazine.net (available beginning in March) WITH Ritz-Carlton sommelier Kristen Dolotina shares her cocktail recipe at MauiMagazine.net/Banyan-Tree-Thymeline. WITHOUT Make this mocktail as served at Travaasa’s Preserve Kitchen + Bar, and you’ll still be able to negotiate those Hāna Highway curves. MauiMagazine.net/ Travaasa-Mocktail

OBACHAN’S PICKLE All you need is a rock. By Becky Speere

96 » dining guide Some of our favorite places to eat all over the island

THIS JUST IN! Visit our online calendar for the latest on what’s happening around Maui County. MauiMagazine.net/Calendar RED CARPET TREATMENT Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo in our online albums and share with friends.

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There’s a saying known throughout the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is indeed the best.” We hope you think so, too.

What does island living mean to you? PUBLISHER Diane Haynes Woodburn

It means fantastic weather and gardening yearround, food constantly falling from fruit trees, jumping into the salty ocean for a mood shift. —Adelle Lennox

SENIOR EDITOR Rita Goldman MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana DINING EDITOR Becky Speere ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER John Giordani STYLE EDITOR Conn Brattain WEBSITE MANAGER Adelle Lennox ASSISTANT DESIGNER Shelby Lynch EVENT PHOTOGRAPHER Jose Morales CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

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Growing up on Maui has made me acutely aware of the importance of conservation and, in particular, the preservation of our native species. For me, island living has brought with it a deep appreciation and respect for the unique ecosystems that exist here. —Zach Pezzillo

Kathy Collins, Judy Edwards, Kyle Ellison, Heidi Pool, Shannon Wianecki CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Bob Bangerter, Conn Brattain, Kyle & Heather Ellison, Dave Fish, John Giordani, Mieko Horikoshi, Todd Kawasaki, Nina Kuna, Wayne Levin, Kepā Maly, Caprice Nicole, Glenn Pascual, Zach Pezzillo, Sasha Prince, Steve Rose, Gary & Paula Rosenberg, Ryan Siphers, Becky Speere, Tori Speere, Shannon Wianecki CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION

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Sure, we’re surrounded by thousands of miles of ocean, but rather than being far from everything else, living on an island brings us closer together—especially if you stay active, attend local events, volunteer, and absorb the culture here. —Kyle Ellison

Enter online at: MauiMagazine.net/Contests Contest runs March 1 to April 30. Winners will be notified via email and announced in our July-August issue.

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Island living is the fact that my house is made up of my uncle’s friend’s furniture, my cousin’s neighbor’s recliner, an auntie’s paintings—and the fact that I’m actually not related to any of these people. —Shelby Lynch

The unfortunate reality to island living means paying a “paradise tax.” Maui’s being such a sought-after place results in a higher cost of living. Throw in the fact that 90 percent of what we consume has to be shipped here, and it’s no wonder a lot of us residents have to work two jobs to pay the bills. —John Giordani

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I define island living as the heaven of simple things: onshore ocean breezes in the morning, the glitter of sun on the sea, and the way you can hear voices and music coming from houses at night. —Judy Edwards

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Ready, Fire . . . Aim! This year we are celebrating our twentieth anniversary, and looking back at the past. Twenty years . . . back then, my husband Jamie and I were still dating. We each had two sons, ages seven to fifteen. So, what to do with four boys and limited resources? We camped, a lot. Our favorite spot was Kaupō, a little more than an hour’s drive from my home in Kula, and a world away. The road itself was an adventure, pocked with ruts and holes and populated with roaming cattle. As the dusty road climbed up and over the ridged edge of paradise, serpentine curves narrowed to a single car width. On the ocean side, sheer drops to certain death elicited white knuckles. Eventually, the winding road, with its heart-stopping views of black lava and cobalt-blue ocean, gave way to the welcoming green of Kaupō. Just past the church, Jamie’s truck trundled down a sandy path to our oasis near the Manawainui stream and the rock-strewn shore. We swam, hiked, fished, laughed, played games and ate till our bellies could hold no more. Afternoons, we gathered driftwood for the huge bonfire that Jamie and the boys would light after dinner. At night, with the Milky Way over our heads, we fell asleep to the crashing waves and rhythmic tumble of rocks. We had little money, but the most gorgeous playground. One summer, Jamie was given a suitcase full of fireworks. Of course, we brought the contents to Kaupō. What happens when you combine five boys, ages seven to forty-seven, and fireworks? Testosterone mania. Or, as I recall it, “Ready, fire, aim!” Jamie and the boys began lighting them—literally throwing caution to the wind. Cones, sparklers, aerials or screamers, it didn’t matter; as long as there was a bang or a flame, it was the best thing since Pac-Man. After the firestorm, I counted my blessings on the kids’ eighty fingers and toes, then we all went off to search for Jamie. The smoke lifted, and there was my macho boyfriend, standing triumphant, a lit bottle rocket in each hand. Funny how quickly thoughts run through your mind when what you see doesn’t make sense. Is he going to throw them? Is there some receptacle I can’t see that’s holding the rockets? Is he . . . nuts? Even I deduced that something called a bottle rocket was supposed to be launched from . . . hmm . . . a bottle? “How do these things work?” he yelled, as the rockets smoked and sizzled. “Drop them!” I yelled back. “What?” “LET GO!” I screamed, careful enunciation masking hysteria. Four boys stood open-mouthed as they watched Jamie register the significance of his error—then drop the rockets and run like hell. Moments later, sand rained every which way as the rockets exploded in varying projections. Luckily, Jamie survived with both hands and all fingers accounted for. Twenty years later, this is still our kids’ favorite “Jamie” story—although, if you’ve been following my column, you know he’s given me a great deal of fodder for laughter. Twenty years is a long time The publisher with husband Jamie circa 1996 . . . but some things never change. Mahalo, Maui, for continuing to provide my family and me with beauty and laughter to last Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher a lifetime.

NINA KUNA

FIRSET TIM ! EVER

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talk story Fresh off the coconut wireless

ARTIST ON LOCATION

Making Her Mark Photo by Caprice Nicole

Chelsea Bryce roots through the box of crayons her five-year-old son, Keenan, keeps in her studio, pulls out a waxy white, and rubs a design onto a sheet of watercolor paper. As she adds a wash, the wax resists the color, revealing the pattern. “Normally I’d use a liquid resist,” Chelsea says, “but I hesitate to keep toxic materials where my kids may play. One day I saw the crayons and thought, Oh! This could work!” Her affinity for playful creativity comes to Chelsea naturally. She was younger than Keenan is now when her parents opened a frame shop next to their Olinda home. By the time she was four, she was keeping company with professional artists like Jan Kasprzycki and Pamela Hayes—whom she considers a mentor. While other kids were watching Sesame Street, Chelsea was getting immersed in art. She attended the University of Puget Sound, earning a bachelor’s degree in English in 2001, and spending her summer vacations working in her parents’ shop. After college, framing became her full-time job, one she happily continued until 2008. During those years, Chelsea played with art in her free time, but was in no rush to pursue it as a profession. “I grew up seeing artists having to get ready for shows. As framers, we were at the tail end of that, so we’d see artists at their most stressed.”

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Geckos perch on a window screen against a backdrop of paper lanterns and agapanthus in Garden Party II (pastel on black paper). Right: Elevated State captures a Polipoli sunset (pastel on watercolor).

In 2003 she took a drawing class with Kit Gentry, an artist known for the photorealism of his paintings. “Kit gave me his pastels,” she says. She liked the fit and feel of the chalk between her fingers, the comfortable familiarity akin to drawing. Gentry also gave her a photograph of Clermontia arborescens, an endangered plant endemic to Hawai‘i. Chelsea painted it in pastels and entered the piece in the first Mālama Wao Akua, a juried exhibition of art inspired by the

natural world, and hosted by Viewpoints Gallery in Makawao. It got accepted. The intersection of art and nature was right where Chelsea belonged. During her years in Tacoma, a deep appreciation for her island home had taken root; after college, she volunteered with The Nature Conservancy, weeding in Waikamoi Preserve and helping to restore Auwahi’s dryland forest. “I began exploring the island, and was amazed at how beautiful the landscape was. How did I not know

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In her pastel Local Color, Bryce uses a child’s rubber slippers and an old woven rug to play with pattern and color. The watercolor Rain Curtain, depicting Kahakuloa during a squall, was inspired by a nineteenth-century woodblock print by Utagawa Hiroshige.

there was a native Hawaiian rainforest two miles as the crow flies from my house!” In 2007 Chelsea took a watercolor class with Pam Hayes, and came away so excited by the experience that her then-boyfriend, Monroe, arranged for her to take private lessons with the artist. That same year, she entered a second painting in Mālama Wao Akua. It made the cut—and caught the eye of Joëlle Perz, Viewpoints’ artistic director, who asked her to participate in the gallery’s Makawao Paint Out invitational. “It was exciting,” Chelsea recalls. “It pushed me to work outside the studio, which I’d never done before.” Perz next suggested that Chelsea collaborate on an exhibit with printmaker Margaret Bedell. “I had to paint before I went to work,” says Chelsea. “We were busy framing for Lahaina Galleries, Dolphin Galleries,

Viewpoints, and so many individual artists.” Her parents closed the shop and retired in 2009, the same year Chelsea and Monroe married. Two days a week, he takes charge of sons Keenan and Kelton, so she can pursue her other love. “What I want to do now is just paint: serene Upcountry scenes, moments of solitude and reflection. Rain and mist are recurring themes in my work, the mist moving through the ‘ōhi‘a trees, or the rain on the roads. It’s what Olinda is like, where I grew up. My Japanese name, Kasumi, refers to low, misty clouds. “I have so many ideas, I can’t get them out fast enough,” she adds. “Why did I put ‘Maui Pastel Artist’ on my business card? I don’t want to be labeled as just that.” She picks up a scrap of matboard on which Keenan has dribbled glue and glitter. “This got me thinking about dimensional painting, what I could do with gloss. I grabbed a glue bottle and drizzled it on black pastel paper, and got this raised gloss texture.” She points next to a pastel depiction of rubber slippers worked in colorful crosshatching, inspired, she says, by the heaps of slippers and little rubber boots she sees on her porch every day. “My kids really influence my process,” says Chelsea. “I love being able to show the public what I do, but fun is what I’m after— that ‘artist’s high,’ as Pam [Hayes] puts it. Pam says, ‘You know you’re really creating art when you think, Ooh, I wonder what would happen if. . . .’”—Rita Goldman

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talk story DAY IN THE LIFE

Hive and Seek NAMES Miki‘ala Pua‘a-Freitas & Moana Wietecha TITLE Bee Rescuers, Hawaiian Honey Bee Rescue TO BEE OR NOT TO BEE When Miki‘ala and Moana wanted bees for their Waihe‘e farm, they took a DIY approach. Rather than purchase a hive, they extracted wild bees from a friend’s wall. Before long, the pair were fielding calls from panicked strangers needing unwanted hives removed. “We had enough bees,” recalls Moana. “But people kept calling us and we didn’t want to turn them away, so we started rescuing as many hives as possible.” “There’s a greater awareness that bee populations are dying,” says Miki‘ala. People tell her, “We have to save them instead of calling Terminex.”

Miki‘ala Pua‘a-Freitas (left) and Moana Wietecha on the farm with two-legged, four-legged, and webfooted friends. Their six-legged rescues live in the boxes at right. Photo by Nina Kuna

HOME SWEET COMB To remove the bees, the women must first access the hive—which often involves cutting a hole in someone’s wall or roof—then meticulously extracting the comb to find the queen bee. “The bees will instinctually hide the queen from us to protect her,” explains Moana. “Sometimes we’ll get lucky and find a queen right away, but most times it’s a slow and precise process.” STING OPERATION Although they wear protective bee suits, “We go barefoot and gloveless when we can,” says Miki‘ala. “It keeps the check and balance for us, so we’re not stomping on bees or just grabbing the comb carelessly.” Naturally, getting stung is all part of the job. “It’s not a matter of how many stings we get, but

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where,” says Moana. “I’ve had multiple stings on my head and face, and those are always bad. I once got a black eye from a sting.” FIT FOR A QUEEN “As women bee rescuers, we’re definitely a minority,” says Miki‘ala, who explains that some homeowners are surprised when the pair arrives at a job. “It’s always important to us to not only save the bees, but also to leave a good impression about them,” she adds. “Our goal is to be bee ambassadors, and we want to let people know that you don’t need to kill them.” Their farm has become an impromptu bee sanctuary where salvaged bees are joined with established hives. “They’ll never go homeless,” notes Miki‘ala. “We’re not about making more honey— we’re about making more bees.” —Lehia Apana

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Photo by Wayne Levin

talk story IN SEASON

In spring, mature akule (big-eyed scad) congregate in sheltered Hawaiian bays. Thousands of foot-long, goggle-eyed fish form a single teeming mass. Seen from above, the school appears as a shadow beneath the surface, a living calligraphy endlessly writing and rewriting itself. Akule schools are even more exciting to encounter under water, as photographer Wayne Levin discovered. For over three decades, he’s dived thirty to seventy feet below to document this phenomenon. The black-and-white photographs in his book Akule reveal a kaleidoscopic world: towering spirals and figure eights ceaselessly evolving in a fluid realm. Drama arrives in the form of pelagic predators. Barracuda, trevally, and amberjacks work the edges of the underwater swarm, occasionally darting in for a kill. The akule scatter and contract around the danger, surging as a single organism and embodying an ever more interesting geometry.

Historically, Hawaiian villages posted kilo i‘a, or lookouts, to watch for these telltale shapes from tall trees or hills. Whenever a big akule school came near shore, the spotter alerted the villagers, who loaded their canoes with hand-woven olonā nets or swam out with baskets. Still watching from above, the kilo i‘a signaled to the fishers, guiding them towards their prey. Afterward, the entire community shared the bounty—drying, smoking, or frying the bony, oily fishes and eating them whole. Akamai (clever) fishermen made sure to set some akule aside to use as bait for larger fish. Today, commercial fishers rely on aircraft and sonar to locate akule, and net the frenzied fish by the ton. But in East Maui, the old ways endure. Akule Hale sits on a hill overlooking Hāna Bay. In the thatched hut’s shade, kūpuna (elders) talk story and keep an eye out for shadows in the water. When these kilo i‘a sound the alarm, their friends and family race down to the bay.—Shannon Wianecki

WAYNE LEVIN

Living Calligraphy

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talk story

Support Your Local Role Models

Top photo: MNKO contributor Kathy Collins proves that tutus—and titas—can be sexy. Above: Gladys Baisa gets our vote for joining a campaign that keeps it real.

SASHA PRINCE PHOTOGRAPHY

After fifty-plus years on this earth, and having spent the last twenty fighting gravity with levity, “lingerie model” was the last gig I expected to be offered. Not even as part of a comedy performance. But then came Perfection. As Victoria’s Secret plunges into the Maui market with a flurry of provocative ads starring supermodel “Angels,” Perfection Bra Fitting Salon is launching a very different type of campaign. With “Modeled by Role Models,” the Wailuku lingerie shop aims to focus beyond lacy undies to the woman inside. Perfection owner Terri Erwin says, “We’re showcasing the beauty of women . . . who bring positive change to the world by leading, inspiring and influencing.” Erwin chose five Maui women, aged thirty to seventy-five, based on their contributions to the community, and their healthy approach to body image. Local photographer Sasha Prince captured the role models, including Maui County Councilmember Gladys Baisa, in lingerie by Panache, the U.K. company that originated the campaign. Stripped down to bare essentials, not a Skinny Minnie among us, we quickly bonded, and our insecurities gave way to appreciation of each other and, yes, of ourselves. The photo shoot felt more like a celebration of sisterhood. You’ll see the images in social media and print promotions, perhaps even in a pop-up exhibit or two. And should Baisa decide to throw her hat into the mayoral ring, her fellow role models have already picked out the perfect photo for her campaign posters.—Kathy Collins

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SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS

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This view of Hulopo‘e Bay shows the volcanic sea stack Pu‘upehe, sometimes called Sweetheart Rock. In ancient lore, Pu‘upehe is the resting place of a Maui princess brought there by her grieving lover, Makakehau. You can see the rock wall purported to be her grave by taking the .3-mile hike to this panoramic overlook. Opening photo by Conn Brattain

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 ADVENTURE/HAWAIIAN SOUL 

using high tech to explore – na‘i’s distant past la Story by KYLE ELLISON | Photography by KYLE & HEATHER ELLISON

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Mar–Apr 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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“I found it!” I yell to my wife, Heather, as we explore abandoned Keōmoku village. “I found the Lahaina passenger boat—you’ve got to come check this out!” Covered in yellow kiawe leaves, and protruding from the mud-crusted earth, the boat has sat here, forgotten and splintered, since the middle of the 1920s. Back then, Keōmoku village was the hub of life on Lāna‘i, and this boat helped move passengers, packages, and poi across the channel to Maui. Standing in this grove of kiawe today, what amazes me more than the boat itself and its rusty block of an engine, is the fact that it’s sat here for ninety-plus years and is nowhere close to the shore. It didn’t move; the land did. When the boat was hauled onto the beach in the twenties, its hull lay on the sand. But a century of grazing by introduced deer, sheep and cattle denuded the mountain, and rains brought runoff and sediment, literally creating new land. Three hundred feet of red mud and dirt now separate the boat from the waves. In the two dozen times I’ve driven this road through Lāna‘i’s rugged “backside,” I’ve never before seen this boat—or even known it existed. Usually when I’m here, driving dirt roads, it’s either to surf or to camp, but today I’m off on a scavenger hunt in search of cultural treasures, using the Lāna‘i Guide, a new app from the Lāna‘i Culture & Heritage Center. The man behind the recently released app— and the island’s cultural resurgence—is Kepā Maly, executive director of the Lāna‘i Culture & Heritage Center, and the senior vice president of culture and historic preservation for management company Pūlama Lāna‘i. Raised on Lāna‘i in a Hawaiian-speaking household, Kepā has spent the past thirty years unearthing Hawai‘i’s stories, translating tens of thousands of pages of Hawaiian archives and oral histories passed down from the kūpuna, or elders, who lived them. To understand the enormity of this project— and the trove of information on the app—you must first understand the vast amount of printed Hawaiian text. The University of Hawai‘i estimates that, between 1834 and 1948, more than 1.5 million pages were printed in Hawaiian newspapers—not counting journals, personal letters, and firsthand accounts. During this time, more published material came out of Hawai‘i than from the rest of the Pacific combined, and since only 2 percent has been translated into English, UH researchers suggest it’s potentially “the largest cache of untranslated historical material in the Western world.” From the Smithsonian to Harvard and back to Lāna‘i, Maly has served as a kind of literary and cultural archaeologist, though instead of

Rocks replace road signs on much of Lāna‘i, like this one outside of Kō‘ele.

The bumpy dirt road to Polihua Beach on Lāna‘i’s north shore shows why exploring the island is best done by Jeep. Polihua translates as a place where honu (sea turtles) climb ashore to lay their eggs.

The name of this beach on the east coast of the island is Kahalepalaoa—“the house of the whale.” It’s said that, in ancient times, a palaoa washed ashore here, and its ribs were used to make the support posts for a chiefly abode.

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 ADVENTURE/HAWAIIAN SOUL 

Keōmoku Highway is the lone paved road that leads to Lāna‘i’s east side—but it comes with a sweeping view of Maui and Moloka‘i.

Surrounded by kiawe trees and half-sunk in Lāna‘i’s red mud are the remains of the boat that once ferried passengers to Maui and back twice a week. That was when Keōmoku was a thriving village; the vessel has sat in this spot for nearly a century.

Executive Director Kepā Maly checks a map at Lāna‘i’s Culture & Heritage Center. Located in Lāna‘i City, the center offers a wealth of historical information and cultural relics that will give you a solid background for exploring the island. Make it the first stop on your adventure. Bottom right photo by Bob Bangerter

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 ADVENTURE/HAWAIIAN SOUL  searching for artifacts buried in Lāna‘i’s deep red mud, he’s unearthing tales of the island’s past covered up by the sands of time. “Much of the material in the app,” says Maly, “is sourced out of native-language accounts we’ve translated over the years. We have thousands of native-language and foreign-visitor accounts of Lāna‘i that haven’t seen the light of day since they were written.” That is, until now. Standing in front of the passenger boat, I scroll down the screen, reading the app on my smartphone, and relay to Heather the story of kupuna Venus Leinaala Gay Holt, who was born in Keōmoku in 1905, and regularly rode the boat across the channel to Maui. “No matter how rough [the water],” she recalled, “Noa Kaopuiki knew how to wait. He would keep the engine running . . . he knew how to count the waves. . . . And all of a sudden, he’d go!” Recalling Holt’s words as I peer out at the waves, I’m struck by how the long-forgotten village comes to life for me. Having just this morning crossed from Maui on the ferry that docks at Mānele Bay, I can picture the splash of the boat’s bow cutting quickly and violently through the waves, and feel the sway of the ‘Au‘au current whipped up by the easterly trade winds. I continue scouring Keōmoku village, reading one tale after the next. With each successive place the app leads me to, the personal accounts and human touch instill a sense of familiarity with this far-from-empty ghost town. Standing inside hauntingly beautiful but empty Ka Lanakila Church, I imagine the congregation at worship when it was built in 1903, and thanks to the app’s historical photos I can see the church lined with pews. Since the Lāna‘i Guide is GPS enabled and synced with digital maps, I’m told I’m only a quarter of a mile from the Maunalei Sugar Company Mill site. Following a narrow, kiawe-lined trail departing from the back of the church, I emerge at a crumbling, concrete foundation where dreams for the mill once flourished. Reading my screen, I learn it was here where plantation manager W. Stoddert proclaimed in 1899, “The land is proving all that’s promised, and I have no doubt of the substantial returns to the stockholders.” Two years later, in 1901, the operation went bankrupt. After a ten-minute hike, I find myself giddily glued to my phone and running down the road, wanting to find the next site—and the next—of history hidden in the trees. With the moving blue ball on the screen of my phone instructing me right where to go, I find the abandoned church and schoolhouse by the road in Kahalepalaoa,

Between Keōmoku and Kahalepalaoa is an ancient fishpond named Waia‘ōpae, one of at least five significant loko i‘a (fishponds) on the island. Waia‘ōpae gradually fell into disrepair when Lāna‘i’s population dropped below 200 in the 1890s, but the community is working to restore it. Photo by Kepā Maly

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Plantation families in Keōmoku village baked their bread in this outdoor oven. The Japanese stone masons who built it in 1899 cut dense basalt lava rock by hand, using chisels, and set it in place with mortar made from baked coral that also coated the oven’s inner and outer surfaces.

Built in 1903, abandoned in 1954, Ka Lanakila Church was lovingly restored in June 2012— the only surviving wooden structure from Keōmoku village. The archival photo at right show the church’s interior in 1950, when it served as the heart of the community. Archival photo from Hapco Collection, courtesy of Lāna‘i Culture & Heritage Center

Hidden among kiawe trees are the remnants of Maunalei Sugar Mill, a short-lived plantation near Keōmoku village that went bankrupt in 1901. The plantation may have failed, but the kiawe, imported to fuel the mill’s furnace, has thrived. The invasive trees are now a dominant species on the island.

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 ADVENTURE/HAWAIIAN SOUL  and the memorial to Japanese laborers, who endured the ocean journey from Japan to toil here in the fields for the reward of seventy-five cents per day. According to the info in my hand, seventy of these workers would die in the span of three years as a result of “various affliction.” Although Keōmoku village, Kahalepalaoa, and Maunalei Mill are gone, Maly hopes that these stories of place will ignite an interest in culture, and Lāna‘i can grow as a pu‘uhonua, or sanctuary of cultural resurgence. “We have a responsibility,” says Maly, “to ensure this history is passed on. And this isn’t just a visitor thing; our kids haven’t been to many of these places. Our people need to be the foremost stewards, because we can’t expect anyone to respect [our culture], if we don’t respect it ourselves.” With the reopening of the renovated Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i, and the expected revival of tourism, the app is a timely way to explore the roots that have shaped the island’s culture. “Today’s visitors have evolved,” Maly claims. “For well over a century, tourism in Hawai‘i was sand, sun, surf, sex, mai tais, and the game of golf. There was minimal authenticity. The app’s goal is to provide a meaningful opportunity for people to experience a place unlike anywhere else on Earth. What we have here on Lāna‘i is something nowhere else can offer.” The next day, Maly’s words echo in my head as I park at the Kaunolū shoreline, preparing to explore the Keālia Kapu–Kaunolū Heritage Trail. This heritage complex is also a National Historic Landmark. It was King Kamehameha I’s favorite peacetime fishing ground; his kahua hale, or homesite, is still visible on the bluff, where Halulu heiau towers above the rocky coast. It’s believed Halulu may have been a luakini, or sacrificial heiau. A translated 1868 account from King Kamehameha V says, “Halulu, it is a temple, and

Top: The rock walls of Halulu heiau (temple) stand sentinel beside the Kaunolū shoreline as they did in ancient days, when ruling ali‘i—including King Kamehameha I—came here to fish and unwind. Left: A heritage marker points the way to Kaunolū village, where this petroglyph, etched into rock, stands frozen in time. Below: The rugged cliffs of the Pali Kaholo rise above Kaunolū Bay. Top and bottom photos by John Giordani

Paliokāholo

Kāne‘āpua

Kaunolū Bay Palaoa Point

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35th annual

A Celebration of International Wines & Maui’s Best Cuisine!

J U N E 9 - 1 2 , 2 0 1 6 • K A PA L U A R E S O R T • M A U I Join Host Master Sommelier Michael Jordan, MS, CWE and a contingent of world-renowned winemakers, star-power celebrity chefs and Maui’s own culinary stars.

INTERACTIVE WINE TASTING SEMINARS CELEBRITY CHEFS HUGH ACHESON & MICHELE MAZZA COOKING DEMOS EVENING GALAS WITH LIVE ENTERTAINMENT

k a p a l u a w i n e a n d f o o d . c o m

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place where the bodies of men were placed on the altar, just like a bunch of bananas.” Beneath Pali Kaholo, the massive cliffs that rise vertically a thousand feet above the sea, an epic silence pervades, broken only by the indefatigable waves. It’s humbling enough just to walk here on ground that was home to ancient kings. To read about this exact place, in words first spoken in Hawaiian in 1868 by one of those kings, borders on the surreal. To stand in a place of such cultural import, a setting so untouched, is to feel that Maly might be right—this is unlike anywhere else on Earth. Late that afternoon, at Mānele Harbor, as we wait to cross back to Maui, I whip out the app for a dose of knowledge before the ferry ride home. Apparently, just 100 yards away is an ancient fishing shrine, where submerged springs provided Mānele village with fresh water. The remains of a 1920s pipi chute, where cattle were loaded onto boats for transport to O‘ahu, is only a short walk away, as are the Kapiha‘a Fisherman’s Trail and the view of Pu‘upehe islet. Enchanted by the wealth of knowledge in my pocket, available at the tap of a finger, I’m tempted to skip the ferry ride home—stay a little bit longer—and further connect with the island itself, feeling its past brought to life.

The Lāna‘i Guide app literally places centuries of history in the palm of your hand—among them, tales of Kahekili’s Leap, seen here along the Kaunolū coast.

Expeditions Ferry Dollar Lana‘i

GETTING AROUND Jeeps are available through Dollar Lana‘i, 808-565-7227, DollarLanai.com; and Lana‘i Cheap Jeeps, 800-311-6860, LanaiCheapJeeps.com. • Aloha Adventure Rentals offers a Hummer H2; 808286-9308, 808Hummers.com

Four Seasons Lanai at Hulopo‘e Bay Four Seasons Lana‘i

GETTING THERE Expeditions ferries passengers between Lahaina Harbor on Maui and Lāna‘i’s Mānele Bay five times a day. Schedule, fees, reservations and other info are at 808-667-3756, Go-Lanai.com. • Your other option is Island Air; the flight between Kahului Airport and Lāna‘i City takes half an hour, and costs $85 round trip. IslandAir.com

WHERE TO STAY Newly reopened, Four Seasons Resort Lanai sits above Hulopo‘e Bay, twenty minutes from Lāna‘i City; rates start at $960. 808-565-2000, FourSeasons.com/Lanai. • Located in Lāna‘i City, Hotel Lāna‘i is a short walk from the town’s restaurants and shops. Rates start at $174, but with only eleven guestrooms, reservations are strongly recommended. 808-565-7211, HotelLanai.com. • The island’s only campground is at Hulopo‘e Beach Park, a five-minute walk from the ferry terminal. Permits are required, and fees apply. Info@LanaiBeachPark.com WHAT YOU’LL NEED Basics like food, drink and gas are available for purchase in Lāna‘i City. You’ll need to bring other items with you from Maui: snorkeling equipment, surfboards, camping gear, etc.

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MIDDLE: EXPEDITIONS; FAR LEFT: JOHN GIORDANI; ALL OTHERS: FOUR SEASONS LANAI

IF YOU GO

Feast at Lele v10n5-mnko

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E kipa mai (welcome) . . . Share the aloha in a journey through Polynesia. The Feast at Lele brings you a royal tour of the cuisine of Polynesia which shares the spotlight with music and dance from four exotic Pacific islands.

Come visit,

H awa i ‘ i

“This is the most fabulous cooking on Maui, which is saying a lot.” —Travel & Leisure “an intimate experience with ‘up to date’ Polynesian cuisine . . . the entertainment is top-notch.”

Ao t e a r o a

—Travel Holiday

Ta h i t i

Brought to you by the creators of Old Lahaina Lu‘au & Pacific’O Restaurant. Menu developed by “Maui’s Best Chef” (The Maui News), James McDonald.

667-LELE (5353)

Toll Free : (866) 244-5353 (Lele) 505 Front Street, Lahaina Town, Maui, Hawai‘i 96761 www.feastatlele.com

Samoa

Photos: Robie Price

For reservations call

« MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA »

HAWAI‘I’S CURIOUS CRITTERS

Geologists tell us that Haleakalā, the 10,000-foot volcano that comprises East Maui, is 2 million years old, give or take. Imagine the field day evolution has had, designing and clothing this mountain. Hawai‘i, growing from the sea as it does, has never touched any other landmass, so all of its biological children are spin-offs of the first lucky landers. Evolution, a little drunk on isolation and possibility and time, made the plants and insects of Hawai‘i unique, and so diverse that we are considered one of the best places in the world to study the outcomes of natural processes. All of the creatures on these pages are endemic—found nowhere else in the PH D O R world. And that is because they were TO A W GR created here. ED A Y PH

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MASKED CRAB SPIDER The family Thomisidae, to which the endemic masked crab spider (Misumenops vitellinus) belongs, has been in Hawai‘i a long, long time. It is a vast family of many species, all of them descended from one fecund pioneer millions of years ago. Perhaps that long view helps her to be so patient as she waits, delicate arms wide, for dinner to land all unsuspecting on a flower of the Syfelia plant (not pictured), a plant that has been her hunting ground for so long that she matches it, green for green. In fact, when full of eggs, her tender abdomen looks a bit like one of the Syfelia flowers, too. Longtime married couples tend to look alike after a while, don’t they?

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LONGHORN BEETLE Meet Plagithmysus funebris, our native longhorn beetle. It is a wee creature with a slim waist, measuring a tidy ¾ inch. No fewer than 116 species of this beetle are found on Haleakalā from sea to summit, all of them descended from one fortunate founder. Showy antennae are sometimes as long as (or even longer than) the beetle’s body. Longhorn beetles live quiet lives under moss on bark while their larval children, securely burrowed into branches, await the day they will be old enough to sport magnificent antennae, too.

LEAFHOPPER Ah, little stained-glass leafhopper (Nesophrosyne hawaiiensis), with your wide head. Doubtless you are dreaming of a safe harbor on the underside of a leaf, from which you may contemplate where to stab and drink deeply of the juice of your host plant. You are less than ¼ inch long, and devoted to the plant whose leaves you hop. The two of you have sailed through many eons and epochs as a duo, although few can say how long ago this match was made. We do know, though, that it was made, and remains, a match made here and only here.

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TETR AGNATHA That sounds like an ancient Greek goddess, but it is the family name of this small (¼-inch to ¾-inch), slender spider. Lean in. See those geometric shapes patterning her back? The pattern can pulse. It can shimmy. It can ripple like silk, dimming and brightening, and no one knows why. Like the happy face spider, this beguiler does not build webs, but instead chooses to make herself long, legs reaching in front, stretching in back, so that she can fold into a leaf, innocuous until her stomach wakes. And then she stretches, shimmers, and goes in search of dinner.

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« MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA »

K O A B U T T E R F LY Consider the inch-long, iridescent koa butterfly (seen here and opposite top), also known as Udara blackburni, or Blackburn’s Blue. Hawai‘i has produced nearly 1,000 species of moth, but only two native butterflies. This one’s affinity with tree and sky is affirmed by wings that are shimmery sky blue above and leaf green below. As a caterpillar it munches steadily through koa leaves. As an adult it trips the forest fantastic, from coastline to colder climes, alighting here on sandalwood tree blossoms, there on ‘a‘ali‘i shrub blooms—a fiery bluegreen opal on the move.

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HAWAIIAN HAPPY FACE SPIDER Slender of leg and sleek of body, the light-green and glassine Hawaiian happy face spider (Theridion grallator) builds no showy web, but goes about her business in the evenings among the broad and sheltering leaves of native forest trees. She is tiny, a mere five millimeters or so, but fierce in her mother love. Her light-green egg bundle is stowed for safety on the underside of a leaf, and when her children hatch she hunts for them until they can make their own way. Her Hawaiian name, for obvious reasons, is nananana makaki‘i (face-patterned spider).

DAMSEL BUG This flightless nabid (damsel bug) nymph is descended of a line of fearsome (if small) predators who elsewhere in the world whizz about, catching prey in their forelegs à la the praying mantis. And yet, in Hawai‘i and over the millennia, this tangerine-eyed beastie has done away with flight altogether. Note the wings, or what is left of them. Tiny and practically decorative, they look more like a short jacket shrugged into on a cool evening. In Hawai‘i, flightless nabids stalk the forest, long pointy rostrums at the ready to nab a meal and ingest it like a smoothie, one satisfying, sucking slurp at a time.

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« MĀLAMA ‘ĀINA »

A BUG’S-EYE VIEW Zach Pezzillo is an unabashed enthusiast of insects and other small creatures. As a child, he frequently snuck them into his bedroom, and was once delighted when he successfully hatched several hundred praying mantises from an egg sack—his mother, not so much. An avid photographer, Zach won his first award at the age of twelve, and went on to earn a bachelor of science, cum laude, from the Rochester Institute of Technology’s School of Photographic Arts and Sciences. Zach’s favorite place to work is within The Nature Conservancy’s Waikamoi Preserve on the slopes of Haleakalā. “Waikamoi is home to an abundance of native species,” he says, “some rare or even critically endangered. I hope that people who see my photographs come away with a heightened appreciation of nature in our own communities. I like to think that my photographs help to give native species, in particular, a voice they otherwise would not have.”

MIRID LEAF BUG The slender mirid leaf bug (Nesiomiris obliqua) reminds you of something, doesn’t it? Summer evenings, maybe, with a lissome and lithe green form perched on a screen door, or bounding away from you on evening walks through forest and field. In Hawai‘i, this half-inch leaf bug claims many relatives, over fifty species, and all of them slightly different. Most are found on only one island, and each is hungry for a very particular native Hawaiian plant, such as the dancing ‘ōlapa, that tree so beloved of hālau hula (hula troupes) and poets. Perhaps if every rose has its thorn, every leaf has its bug, eh? Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Mar–Apr 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Photography: JOHN GIORDANI Fashion & Set Styling: CONN BRATTAIN Hair & Makeup: RY-N SHIMABUKU Model: ALYSSA HUDSON / LARSON TALENT Assistant Stylist: TORI SPEERE

Somewhere, “proper attire” means highly structured and tailored apparel. Not here. Living on an island like Maui means feeling at home with breezy, flowing fashion. Life’s a work in progress. Dress the part.

BUILDING MATERIALS Marigold crest print cotton shirt by Kerry Cassill, $115 at Pearl Butik. Drawstring floral print pants by Johnny Was, $248; navy Lupe sandal by Coconuts by Matisse, $98; silver-plated ring with oversize Swarovski crystal by UNOde50, $220; all at WaterLily. Tassel necklaces by Genni Design, $70–$80 at Letarte. Citrine and sterling silver Kyra earrings by Yasha, $220 at Enchantress Boutique.

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 ISLAND STYLE 

HEIGHT OF FASHION Scallopedged halter-style 1-piece Mott swimsuit in Sally stripe by Marysia, $319 at Cabana. Silk patchwork striped skirt with asymmetrical ruffle hem by Derek Lamb 10 Crosby, $695 at 22 Knots. Black-and-white stripe Hazel shoes by Seychelles, $105 at Pink by Nature. Citrine and sterling silver Kyra earrings by Yasha, $220; jeweled hinge bracelet by Otazu, $329; and crystal marquis-cut bracelet by Made for a Queen, $249; all at Enchantress Boutique. Vintage sari fabric belts (black one worn as headband) by C. Miya, $36 each at Indigo Paia.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Mar–Apr 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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 ISLAND STYLE 

CLEAR WINNER Silver Sun sequin T-dress by Jen’s Pirate Booty, $240 at Pink by Nature. Vintage sari fabric belt by C. Miya, $36 at Indigo Paia. Labradorite bead and Tahitian pearl necklace on handknotted silk cord by Kate Christiansen, $1,148 at Pearl Butik. By Olia Maui’s pyrite and silk tassel tie necklace (can also be worn as a belt), $249; citrine and sterling silver Kyra earrings by Yasha, $220; crystal flower headband by Deepa Gurani, $198; all at Enchantress Boutique.

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SWATCH THIS Santa Fe fringe jacket by Tularosa, $170 at Nuage Bleu. Boyfriend jeans by Mother Denim, $200 at Pink by Nature. Flower blossom bralette by For Love & Lemons, $122; double crystal talisman necklace with brass setting and chain, $192; round lapis ring, $400, and pear-shaped ruby ring, $970, both set in Argentium silver, from Almeria Designs by Wendy Hill; all at Driftwood. Silk scarf worn as headband by Johnny Was, $98 at Holiday & Co. Iridia mirror-tip cat-eye sunglasses in champagne by Fendi, $455 at ILORIoptical. (Option shown, with prescription lenses, at additional cost.)

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Mar–Apr 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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 ISLAND STYLE  LEVEL BEST Turquoise hibiscus print Scooba top by Mira Mikati, $480; Kiki print drawstring harem pant by Holiday by Megan Park, $180; silver leather belt with oversize Swarovski crystals by Ronald Pineau, $1,115; all at 22 Knots. Two blue chalcedony bead necklaces with rhodium-plated diamond pavé beads on hand-knotted silk cord by Kate Christiansen, $998 and $2,200 at Pearl Butik. Semiprecious square stone ring set in rhodium copper by Bodhi Waves, $79 at Tempos eum, suntem Enchantress Boutique. repuditio mod quae commo volorep eliquam auta sit iligend ucipsame ne velecto est esersperum autemo de del et min consequ atiossimus, sanditi onsenda conseressum dempori seratus et, sunt prero te prae plate volore eturestrum imet, imil iliquam quam asperaecae ipsum nim santem. Nam venimi, officte re voluptam fugit pa ad que nos samus re vid que voloreptate inusani ssimet moluptatem doloreicipis am repe cum doles solorib eruptatet aut volutem quatem facerat ea cus modi aut labori sum reiunde lectemqui ape apis rerat. ipsum nim santem. Nam venimi, officte re voluptam fugit pa ad que nos samus re vid que voloreptate inusani ssimet moluptatem doloreicipis am repe cum doles solorib eruptatet aut volutem quatem facerat ea cus modi aut labori sum reiunde lectemqui ape apis rerat.

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BEYOND MEASURE Dot print Grace skirt by Nico, Nicholson & Nicholson, $290 at Holiday & Co. Maui print halter top by Holiday by Megan Park, $240; Sophia high-heel sandal in green cactus print with Swarovski crystals and silk rose detail by Charlotte Olympia, $996; both at 22 Knots. Vintage sari fabric belt by C. Miya, $36 at Indigo Paia. Citrine and sterling silver Kyra earrings by Yasha, $220; crystal marquis-cut bracelet by Made for a Queen, $249; all at Enchantress Boutique. Silver-plated ring with oversize Swarovski crystal by UNOde50, $220 at WaterLily.

RETAIL GUIDE 22 Knots Four Seasons Resort Maui, 874-8000 Cabana Four Seasons Resort, 874-8000 Driftwood 1152 Makawao Ave, Makawao, 572-1152, DriftwoodMaui.com Enchantress Boutique The Shops at Wailea, 891-6360, MauiEnchantress.com Four Seasons Resort 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr, Wailea, 874-8000, FourSeasons.com/Maui Holiday & Co. 3681 Baldwin Ave, Makawao, 572-1470, HolidayAndCoMaui.com Indigo Paia 149 Hāna Hwy, Pā‘ia, 579-9199, IndigoPaia.com Letarte 24 Baldwin Ave, Pā‘ia, 579-6022, LetarteSwimwear.com Nuage Bleu 76 Hāna Hwy, Pā‘ia, 579-9792, NuageBleu.com Pearl Butik 71 Baldwin Ave, Pā‘ia, 579-8899, PearlButik.com Pink by Nature 3663 Baldwin Ave, Makawao, 572-9576 Ry-n Shimabuku, Makeup & Hair, Ry-nShimabuku.com The Shops at Wailea 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr, Wailea, TheShopsAtWailea.com WaterLily 100 Wailea Ike Dr, Wailea, 868-4014 Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Mar–Apr 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Everything You Need, More than You Imagined.

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s Guide to Home & Garden

LIVING

Sun worshiper: A Wailea home takes inspiration from South Maui’s ocean and sky.

TABLE OF CONTENTS ISLE

2 THE ULTIMATE ART PROJECT

What happens when a Maui artist designs a home as a showcase for his work? by Heidi Pool

ISLE

12 GREAT FINDS FOR YOUR HOME

Dip into cool blue hues inspired by the ocean. by Conn Brattain

ISLE

14 MAUI’S SMALL TOWNS

From Lahaina to Hāna, Kīhei to Makawao, those who live there share what’s best about the places they call home. by Lehia Apana & Heidi Pool

28 UNDERSTANDING AFFORDABLE

RYAN SIPHERS

ISLE

HOUSING

Alexander & Baldwin’s new residential development will soon offer lower-than-market-rate homes. Want in? Here’s what you need to know. by Diane Haynes Woodburn

 EDITOR Rita Goldman MANAGING EDITOR Lehia Apana ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER John Giordani STYLE EDITOR Conn Brattain DESIGN & PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Shelby Lynch ADVERTISING SALES 808-242-8331 ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Barbara Geary, Michael Haynes, Laura Lewark CONTROLLER Kao Kushner E-MAIL ADDRESS info@MauiMagazine.net

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Eating & Drinking, & The Shops at Wailea magazines

Island Living is published annually by Haynes Publishing Group, Inc., 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; (808) 242-8331. ©2016 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 1

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« AT HOME »

Story by Heidi Pool Photography by Ryan Siphers The driftwood look of its dining-room table inspired the great room’s beachlike decor, from the engineered hardwood flooring, to a glass-tile backsplash the color of ocean shallows stirred by the surf. Curved walnut barstools and white plastic dining chairs play off the room’s straight lines. Maui cabinetmaker Doug Woodward built the shoe cabinet that occupies the hallway at right, its frosted glass hiding the contents from view.

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 3

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« AT HOME »

Robert Suzuki’s artistic expression

takes many sizes, shapes, and forms: oil paintings, sculptures, pastel and charcoal renderings, houses. Wait . . . houses? Indeed. Last year, Robert completed his ultimate art project—the home he lives in with his wife, Carol. Located in a Wailea subdivision, the house is the fourth the Suzukis have built together. Their previous home, in Pukalani, had a Hawaiiana ambiance and dark, rich koa and cherrywood furniture. “We wanted to do something completely different with our new house,” Robert says. “We decided on a contemporary, minimalist theme, but we also wanted it to be casual, comfortable, and suited to a ‘beachy’ lifestyle.” Maybe not completely different—the couple liked the layout of their Upcountry home, so Robert used its basic design as a model for the new house, with modifications to fit the Wailea lot’s characteristics. “We wanted to utilize the natural topography, and take full advantage of the ocean view,” he explains. “This lot slopes, so we positioned the main living quarters and the pool on the upside, and created a lower floor on the other.” Robert and Carol selected Ivo de Wilde, owner of Wildco Construction, to be their contractor. “We wanted someone willing to collaborate with us to achieve our vision,” says Robert. “Ivo was the perfect partner.” A stroke of luck (or was it fate?) led Robert and Carol to their interior designers. “We attended a party at a home in Kula, and admired the newly remodeled kitchen,” Carol says. When they learned that their hosts’

The property’s slope suggested the home’s architectural design: a one-story entrance that evolves into two levels on the side facing the ocean. Islands of tropical landscaping compliment the building’s spare, simple exterior. An outdoor staircase leads from the lawn to a pool deck whose privacy walls shield swimmers and sun worshipers from street traffic below, while letting them bask in the panoramic view.

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Left: Custom bookshelves slide back and forth to camouflage or reveal the living room’s TV. An occasional table of vertical twigs, and the bold, geometrically patterned area rug below, add drama and texture to the room’s muted palette. Cleverly fitted slipcovers protect the sofa, and can be thrown in the washer for cleaning. “When our grown-up sons come to visit,” says Carol, “we want them to feel comfortable sitting there after a day at the beach.”

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 5

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« AT HOME »

Above: The Suzukis say the master bedroom’s generous use of windows and glass doors makes them feel as though they’re living in a tree house. Bright turquoise pillows and bedside lamps give a splash of color, echoing the blue of the swimming pool steps away. Right: The master bathroom’s washed-oak cabinetry, and bathtub tiles in pearl and grey, provide a feminine touch for the lady of the house.

daughter, Jessica Guard McLellan, had done the design, “I said to Robert, ‘We have to talk to her.’” Jessica and her partner, Wendy Takemoto, own HUE Interior Design & Home Furnishings in Kahului. “We loved the idea of having a blank slate to work with,” Jessica says. “And Robert and Carol were very open to our suggestions for materials and furnishings.” The design scheme began with a table. “Robert and Carol walked into our showroom and fell in love with it,” Jessica recalls. “They were drawn to its clean lines and driftwood texture. That table set the tone

for the remainder of the house.” On a family trip to Japan, Carol had spied some ultramodern white plastic chairs whose curved armrests and backs brought to mind al fresco dining. Jessica and Wendy were able to source them in Honolulu. “The dining chairs are my favorite things in the entire house,” Carol declares. In the kitchen, an expansive backsplash of sea-foam glass tile manages to be at once understated and a showstopper. But carving out rectangles to accommodate electrical outlets required a water jet cutter so as not to shatter the glass. “Ivo found a fellow in Lahaina

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« AT HOME »

Clockwise from top left: A westernized version of a Japanese genkan (entryway) allows guests to remove shoes and don slippers before stepping into the home; its flooring and other finishes create a smooth transition between outdoors and in. An ingeniously engineered staircase seems to float, descending to the lower level. Beneath it, a lifelike Labrador sculpture keeps a sentinel eye on the carousel horse Robert crafted for Carol. Grey tiles, walnut cabinetry, and no-nonsense geometric lines give the hall bathroom an ambiance at once Spartan and spa-like.

with the right equipment,” says Robert. “He’s apparently the only person on Maui who does that type of work.” In each of their homes, Robert has designed a genkan—a traditional Japanese entryway where guests remove their outdoor shoes and don indoor slippers. A sizeable oil painting, depicting a tree trunk and boulders, greets you as you enter. Robert created it for the space. “I imagined the painting as a transition from outside to inside,” he explains. “The boulders in the painting mirror the rocks outside the front door.” The floor tiles in the genkan are another nod to Robert’s cultural heritage. “They have a texture similar to that of a Japanese raked garden,” he says. The move to Wailea allows Robert to be closer to his clients, and

the choice of a neutral color palette makes the new home a showcase for his art. “My approach to designing this house was to treat it like a huge art project,” he says. “Usually, a home is built, then afterwards you find space for art. I did it in reverse order—putting a great deal of thought into where I wanted to place my paintings, then creating specific areas where I could prominently display my work.” An open staircase of white oak and metal leads to the lower floor; it too, is a work of art. “Whenever I saw an open staircase that appealed to me, I uploaded a photograph of it to my computer,” Robert says. “This staircase is an amalgamation of all the ideas I accumulated.” Mounted on the wall next to it is a true-to-size carousel horse. Its whimsical nature is so unlike the rest of the home’s Zenlike

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decor, you know there’s got to be a story behind it. “I promised Carol I’d carve her a horse for Christmas,” says Robert. “I just didn’t specify which year. It ended up taking three!” Originally painted as colorfully as a horse you’d find on an actual carousel, it now sports a whitewashed finish better suited to the muted palette of its new digs. Transforming the carousel horse was easy. Shifting from a Hawaiiana theme to a contemporary, minimalist style required parting with much of the furniture Robert and Carol had accumulated during more than thirty years of marriage. But not all. “Carol had quite a few koa chests of drawers she wanted to incorporate into their new home,” Jessica says. Placed in alcoves, those treasured pieces “bring a homey feeling to the house.” The Suzukis’ two sons and daughter-in-law came to visit this past Thanksgiving. “All three young people slept in late every morning,” Carol says. “I told Robert, ‘If they’re that comfortable here, we did something right.’”

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« AT HOME »

Your best choice f� Property Management Above: One of Robert Suzuki’s original oil paintings hangs in the dining area. Creating spaces to showcase his work played a major role in the home’s design. Left: The artist’s aesthetic inspired Jessica Guard McLellan and Wendy Takemoto, owners of HUE Interior Design, to give an Asian sensibility to the master bedroom’s decor.

RESOURCES Chris Curtis Landscape 140 Apuwai St., Ha‘ikū 808-572-2367 ChrisCurtisLandscapes.com Huber Pools 1367 S. Kīhei Rd., #3-110, Kīhei 808-879-0822 | HuberPools.com HUE Interior Design & Home Furnishings 210 Alamaha St., Kahului 808-873-6910 | MauiHue.com Maui Marble & Granite (countertops, flooring, tile) 874 Alua St., Wailuku 808-242-8400 MauiMarbleAndGranite.net Suda Shades & Design LLC (window treatments) 808-205-7926 | SudaShades.com Nick Wagner (architect) 226 S. Church St., Wailuku 808-242-5720 Whitey’s Upholstery (reupholstery) 808-268-9710

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Wildco Construction 808-283-2371 Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 11

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 GREAT FINDS 

Current Mood

COMPILED BY CONN BRATTAIN

Dip into cool blue hues inspired by the ocean.

DRY SPELL Handwoven, mercerized cotton hand towels, 18”x32”, by The Maui Mercer, $32 each at Pearl Butik, 71 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8899; and TheMauiMercer.com

ANY PORT IN A STORM So long as it’s Newport. The stackable armchair features a teak frame with turquoise Batyline mesh seat and back; 26”x25¼”x36”, $470. Side chair (not shown) is 21”x23¼”x36”, $440. By Jensen Designs at Outdoor Living, 261 Lalo St., Kahului, 873-8325, OutdoorLivingHawaii.com

WATER LINE The teal, 20”-square Lorin pillow is a vibrant decorative accent—and a comfy place to rest your bounding mane. By angelo:HOME, $39 at HomeWorld, 374 Hanakai St., Kahului, 877-5503, HomeWorld.com

FUN DESIGN IS NO FLUKE Two’s Company makes this trio of whaleshaped serving bowls; fill them with your favorite dips. Bowls sold individually: 5¼”x4”, $7; 6¼”x4½”, $13; 7½”x5”, $19; at HUE, 210 Alamaha St., Kahului, 873-6910, MauiHue.com

FLUID DESIGN Koa and resin combine in this 14” Currents platter by Big Island artisans Tim and Tiffany Shafto; each hand-crafted platter is unique. $690, stand included, at Martin & MacArthur. Visit MartinAndMacArthur.com for locations.

MAKE A SPLASH Muse Braid (tan) and Muse Wave (blue) tiles by Oceanside come in array of colors and blends. Call for pricing. At Maui Marble & Granite, 874 Alua St., Wailuku, 242-8400, MauiMarbleandGranite.net

VESSEL Aqua and clear crackle glass vase, 9¾”x5½”, by Tozai Home. $67 at Collections, 3677 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-0781, CollectionsMauiInc.com

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1,4,6,7; CONN BRATTAIN

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Maui Marble & Granite, Inc Natural stone—nature’s original sustainable building material.

We at Maui Marble & Granite have been providing the island with beautiful natural stone products for over 25 years. Come see our selection of recyclable, durable, natural stone. You will be amazed at the possibilities. 874 Alua Street • Wailuku, HI 96793 Phone: 808.242.8400 • mauimar@maui.net www.MauiMarbleAndGranite.net Lic. No. C-21030

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 MAUI STYLE 

HĀNA • KĪHEI • L AHAINA • MAK AWAO • PĀ‘IA • WAILUKU

With all that our island has to offer, most residents will concur that Maui well deserves its nō ka ‘oi moniker. Ask us about our favorite town here, and things get a bit more complicated. So we did just that: Asked local experts what’s so good about their towns. We’re not taking sides—we love them all.

BY L E HI A A PA N A & H E I D I P O O L Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 15

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Cradled at the base of West Maui’s mountain, overlooking the Central Valley, Wailuku is a charismatic town packed with Hawaiian history and local flavor. From landmark battles between ancient chiefs to serving as the current seat of Maui County government, what happens here has long influenced the rest of the island. The area is in the midst of resurgence, and today you’ll find a host of unique eateries, one-of-a-kind shops, and a popular monthly block party.

Our resident advisors: Alvin Makimoto, owner of Uptown Chevron Food Mart & Car Wash Hoku Pavao Jones, performer and office administrator at Maui Academy of Performing Arts

Historic ‘Īao Theater on Market Street

‘Īao Valley

What’s the best thing about growing up in Wailuku? AM: I remember walking everywhere during my hanabata [small-kid] days in Wailuku. It was fun cruising around town and visiting all the momand-pop stores like Ito Market and Omura’s Deli, which are no longer around. I got into bowling, so in high school we used to hang out at [Maui Bowling Center], which is still there. Where do you take out-of-town guests? HPJ: I always take them to ‘Īao Valley. In fact, I make sure I go to ‘Īao at least once a week. That place is so rejuvenating. No matter what’s happening in my life, I can jump in the water there and feel good again.

What’s there to do here at night? AM: Most nights, Wailuku essentially shuts down after work hours. Our monthly First Friday block party is great because it gives people a reason to stick around and socialize after dark. [Uptown Chevron] has a food booth every First Friday, so I’m always there. It’s so cool because you see a mixture of new people and familiar faces you haven’t seen in a long time. What’s an iconic shop? HPJ: My obsession with shoes began when I worked at If the Shoe Fits during high school. We local women don’t usually wear shoes, but we love our slippers. And if we want to get fancy, we’ll wear slippers with a bit of a heel. Teri, the owner, understands what local women want and really caters to that clientele.

Tasty Crust on Mill Street

They also recommended: Starting your morning at Wailuku Coffee Company . . . browsing the collection of authentic Hawaiian crafts, artwork and adornments at Native Intelligence . . . shopping for statement Polynesian-inspired clothing at Ha Wahine . . . or casual clothing with a local twist at Maui Thing . . . testing your endurance and savoring the views along the Waihe‘e Ridge Trail . . . spending time with your little ones, dancing, crafting and doing keiki yoga at Monkeypod Art Studio . . . catching a locally produced concert or play at the Historic ‘Īao Theater.—LA

Sam Sato’s in The Millyard

FROM TOP: GOOGLE EARTH; TODD KAWASAKI; GOOGLE EARTH; NINA KUNA

Favorite place to eat? AM: I grew up eating at Tasty Crust, which has been serving local-style comfort food since the fifties. These days I like 808 on Main for their sandwiches and salads. HPJ: I’m a Sam Sato’s girl. I don’t know what it is about their dry mein noodles—they’re so simple, yet so good. I also love the loco mocos [hamburger patty, egg, and rice smothered in gravy] at Bamboo Grille. They have different versions with things like chicken katsu or roast pork instead of the usual hamburger patty.

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 MAUI STYLE 

Baldwin Avenue

This Upcountry town sits on the northwestern slope of Haleakalā, surrounded by pastureland and forest. It’s aptly named—makawao translates as “eye of the forest.” This is also the heart and soul of Maui’s paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) heritage. In fact, you’ll still see hitching posts scattered throughout this rustic town that’s evolved into one of the island’s foremost centers for local artists and artisans.

Our resident advisors: Rene Komoda, granddaughter of T. Komoda Store & Bakery founders Takezo & Shigeri Komoda Peter Baldwin, owner of Pi‘iholo Ranch

TOP: BOB BANGERTER; MIDDLE LEFT & BOTTOM: JOHN GIORDANI; MIDDLE RIGHT: MAKAWAO MUSEUM; RODEO: JOSE MORALES

What was it like growing up in Makawao? RK: I grew up two blocks away from my grandparents’ store. I rode the bus from Makawao to Maui High School in Kahului. After school, my friends and I liked to stop at Iwaishi Store [where Makawao Steak House is now] because they had a soda fountain. I also worked at Komoda Store, selling pastries, measuring fabric, and wrapping presents. I still work there part time. PB: On Saturdays, my friends and I rode our horses into Makawao to watch Lone Ranger movies at the Makawao Theater [where Viewpoints Gallery is now]. The admission price was six cents.

Makawao Forest Reserve

Makawao History Museum

What makes Makawao unique? RK: The rural atmosphere. There are lots of chickens wandering around town, and some residents have horses and goats in their yards. Also, the huge pine tree behind the public library. When you see that tree, you know you’re in Makawao! PB: First of all, the scenery and climate. The abundant rainfall each year keeps everything green, and the elevation makes it about ten degrees cooler than at sea level. Also, because Makawao cannot expand geographically, it will never lose its small-town character. Any hidden gems? RK: Makawao is an “outdoorsy” town. There’s great hiking and mountain biking at the Makawao Forest Reserve off Pi‘iholo Road. You can rent mountain bikes at Krank Cycles on Makawao Avenue. PB: The Makawao History Museum on Baldwin Avenue. I’d been wanting a town museum for about forty years, and now we have one. Favorite place to eat? PB: I enjoy taking my grandkids to Casanova. The chefs let them help make their pizza, and use the big paddle to put it in the oven. I also like the Tamimi Farms Rainbow Tomato Salad at Market Fresh Bistro. That, plus the soup of the day, makes for a perfect lunch. How about an iconic store? RK: Komoda Store, of course! [She laughs.] It’s the only store in Makawao that’s still the same as it was when I was growing up. PB: Rodeo General Store. It has changed over the years, but it still has what you need to get you through the day without having to go downcountry.

Makawao Rodeo

They also recommended: Satisfying your sweet tooth with a stick donut, cream puff, or long john from T. Komoda Store & Bakery . . . barbecue night Mondays at Polli’s Mexican Restaurant . . . watching Chris Lowry and Chris Richards turn molten glass into works of art at Hot Island Glass . . . celebrating Makawao’s paniolo heritage at the annual Fourth of July Parade and Rodeo . . . unleashing your inner carnivore at Makawao Steak House.—HP

T. Komoda Store & Bakery

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KIHEI With six miles of sandy shoreline, a host of ocean activities and reliably sunny days, there’s no wonder Kīhei is synonymous with beaches. Add to that a bounty of dining options and entertainment for all ages, and you’ve got a place where rest and relaxation is practically sport.

Keawakapu Beach

Our resident advisors: Kirk Surry, cofounder of the school-garden program Grow Some Good Liza Pierce, blogger at AMauiBlog.com What makes Kīhei distinctive? KS: The beach is an extension of the town. You have easy access to surfing, kayaking, stand-up paddling, snorkeling or scuba diving.

Any dining recommendations? LP: There are so many ethnic places to eat within Kīhei— from Indian and Filipino to Mexican and Asian. One of my favorites is Chez Mēmē [Bistro & Bakery], which is located in an industrial area. I know it’s an unusual spot, but they’ve created an atmosphere that feels like you’re in a little café in Paris. Everything is homemade and they have a really yummy trio of French toast. KS: My answer is partly selfish because it benefits Grow Some Good. Every Friday night, Duo at Four Seasons [Resort] does Market Night, where they feature a salad bar of all local produce. For every salad sold that night, a dollar goes to Grow Some Good. I can order the salad and split an entrée, making it a fancy yet affordable evening out. LP: I never liked shave ice because I figured it’s just flavored water, but when I tasted Ululani’s [Hawaiian Shave Ice], I was hooked. Their flavors are filled with natural ingredients, so if I order a liliko‘i [passionfruit], I can taste the actual fruit. With add-ons like mochi and coconut, it becomes truly gourmet. Where’s a good place to grab a drink? KS: The [Maui Research & Technology Park] is becoming a trendy happy-hour area. I love taking people to Maui Brewing Company, then heading across the street to Cow Pig Bun, where you can get a good burger and whiskey or bourbon. They have an after-hours, so if you’re coming off the plane late, it’s one of the few places [with] quality food that’s open late. What’s your perfect Saturday? LP: I love going to farmers’ markets in town, especially the one on Līpoa Street on Saturdays. You can find some produce that you cannot find elsewhere, it’s usually fresher and cheaper, and you’re supporting local.

Kīhei Cove Beach Park

Maui Brewing Company

Līpoa Street Market

They also recommended: Kīhei Grabbing a hearty breakfast at Cove rby nea to lling stro then . . . e Caff dle Park for surf or stand-up pad for lessons . . . or Kamaole I, II or III s... nitie ame to e clos ing sun worship ors vend t, men rtain ente live ying enjo rth Fou thly and food trucks at the mon eful tast a for ping Friday Kīhei . . . shop aloha shir t at Tori Richard in The fare Shops at Wailea . . . catching pub the on and live music at Mulligans y at Blue . . . or dancing the night awa .—LA nge Lou tini Ambrosia Mar

TOP: JOHN GIORDANI; SECOND FROM TOP: BOB BANGERTER; LEFT: STEVE ROSE; BOTTOM: NINA KUNA

Do you have a favorite beach? KS: I love Keawakapu Beach. There’s a long stretch of sand that you can walk along, and since that area is lined with homes rather than resorts, it’s less crowded. It’s also a pet-friendly beach with nice showers and easy parking.

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 MAUI STYLE 

Hanaka‘ō‘ō Beach Park

Once the capital of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i, Lahaina is steeped in history and oozing with charm. Its epicenter is iconic Front Street, which the American Planning Association named one of the top ten “Great Streets in America” in 2011. Often referred to as the “jewel in the crown of Maui,” lively Lahaina boasts a plethora of shops and restaurants, as well as one of the largest banyan trees in the country.

Our resident advisors: Tiara Kukahiko, assistant entertainment manager at Old Lahaina Lū‘au Chuck Dicker, longtime Lahaina resident

TOP: PETER LIU/KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH RESORT ASSOCIATION; UPPER RIGHT: DAVE FISH; FOOTBALL: GLEN PASCUAL

TOP: JOHN GIORDANI; SECOND FROM TOP: BOB BANGERTER; LEFT: STEVE ROSE; BOTTOM: NINA KUNA

What was it like growing up in Lahaina? TK: My dad took us to the beach every day to surf or paddle canoe. My mom worked at the Golden Palace Chinese Restaurant, so we ate there nearly every day. I also played a lot of sports. During some times of the year, I’d be participating in as many as three different sports. What’s the best thing about living in Lahaina? CD: Everyone knows everyone else, which gives you a tremendous sense of ownership of your town. And our local businesses are supportive of the community on an everyday basis by making donations and sponsoring events. TK: We live across from Wahikuli Beach Park, and my family and I spend a lot of time there playing in the sand and swimming. Lahaina is also a very family- and sports-oriented town, so there’s a lot of camaraderie. We all root for the Lahainaluna High School football team!

Front Street seen from Lahaina Harbor Lahainaluna High School football

What makes this town unique? TK: Because Lahaina was the capital of Old Hawai‘i, the culture is particularly strong here. CD: There are so many free community celebrations here—Kamehameha Day Parade, Plantation Days, and Halloween, just to name a few. I encourage my mainland friends to plan their visits around these events. Favorite place to eat? TK: My husband and I love the whole wok-fried ‘ōpakapaka at Honu Seafood & Pizza. For casual dining, the burgers and fish tacos at Cool Cat Cafe are ‘ono [delicious]! CD: My wife and I enjoy sitting in the back at Hula Grill watching Chef Bobby Masters and his team cook. We tell Bobby how much we want to spend, and let him pick their best product of the day for us. What’s there to do here at night? TK: Paradise Grill in Kā‘anapali has great live music every night, and Friday is Salsa Night. Fridays and Saturdays nights there’s late-night karaoke at Kobe Japanese Steak House, which is great fun.

From ancient times to whaling and missionary days, Lahaina is rich in history and culture.

They also recommend ed : Talking story with local artists at Friday Night Is Art Night . . . soaking up Hawaiian culture at Old Lahaina Lū‘au . . . shoppi ng for island attire at Mahin a . . . checking out artifac ts from Lahaina’s whaling days at The Whaler, Ltd. . . . tak ing a free (or almost free) cla ss at West Maui Senior Ce nter . . . sinking your teeth into beef tacos at Shark Pit Ma ui . . . experiencing a slice of Lahaina histor y at the Pioneer Inn.—HP

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A century ago, this North Shore town was East Maui’s largest plantation village; you can still see the old sugar mill if you travel up Baldwin Avenue, past Pā‘ia’s only stoplight, and the stupa the Dalai Lama consecrated in 2007. The discovery of Ho‘okipa as a windsurfing mecca launched a town renaissance. Today, an eclectic mix of restaurants, galleries and boutique shops inhabits Pā‘ia’s plantation-era architecture—surrounded, at least for a little while longer, by fields of sugarcane.

Baldwin Beach

Our resident advisors: Emma Burns, manager at Mama’s Fish House Barry Rivers, founder and director of Maui Film Festival What do you remember about Pā‘ia from when you were young? EB: My mom used to take us to a sandwich shop called Picnics [where Mambo Café is now located]. We ordered at the counter, and picked our drinks from the pictures on the wall. It was a family-friendly diner, Maui style. What do you like best about living in Pā‘ia? BR: It’s in short proximity to six of the best beaches on the planet. I’m in the water twice a day, every day. I’m always so immersed in technology and running my business, when I leave my desk I just want to be in the water.

Baldwin Avenue just above Hāna Highway Ho‘okipa Beach

Maui Dharma Center’s stupa

What makes this town unique? EB: People from all over the globe come to Pā‘ia, which makes it a quirky, yet worldly surf town. Some of the restaurants have family seating, and you never know who will sit down next to you. It’s still a laid-back town, but it’s becoming more sophisticated all the time. BR: Pā‘ia is eclectic—a mix of many different types of people. Some are out of their minds, some are steady as a rock, and some are in between. That really works for me. I’m originally from New York, and Pā‘ia is Maui’s “east side,” even though it’s on the north shore.

Any hidden gems? EB: Sporting Club of the Pacific is a fun place to hang out. It’s tucked into a corner [behind Puka Puka on Hāna Highway], and is fairly new on the Pā‘ia radar. You can order a cold-pressed fresh juice or açai bowl and enjoy it outside on a bench under palm trees. BR: Pā‘ia Bay Coffee is a fantastic way to start your day. Their breakfasts are especially good. Next door, Ali‘i Kula Lavender has opened up a great new shop.

Mama’s Fish House

They also recommended: Noshing on li hing mui margaritas and black-bean nachos during happy hour at Milagros . . . cooling off with a frozen treat from Tobi’s Shave ice . . . munching on organic creations at Flatbread Company . . . shopping for vintage aloha dresses at Biasa Rose . . . tapping your feet to live music at Charley’s Restaurant & Saloon.—HP

Café des Amis

TOP: SHANNON WIANECKI; MIDDLE: BOB BANGERTER (3) BOTTOM: COURTESY OF CAFÉ DES AMIS

Favorite place to eat? EB: Mama’s Fish House, of course! Because the fishermen bring their catch to the restaurant every morning, the seafood is as fresh as it gets. In Pā‘ia proper, Café des Amis offers some really tasty selections. I like the breakfast burrito that’s served with habanero chutney they make in house. And they have a new sweet crêpe made with toasted pecans, maple syrup, and cream. It’s divine! BR: I love Thai Spice. Everything on the menu is great, but I especially like the green curry and the stir-fry. The to-go counter at Hāna Ranch Provisions has a pineapple/peanut cake that’s out of this world.

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HANA Hāmoa Beach

 MAUI STYLE 

Before indulging in Hāna’s wonders, you’ll need to brave fifty-plus miles of snaking roads, singlelane bridges, and enough blind turns to give you chicken skin. The reward is arriving at one of the last unspoiled Hawaiian frontiers, whose isolation has preserved its rustic beauty and endless charm.

Our resident advisors: Kau‘i Kanaka‘ole, kumu hula (hula teacher) of Hālau o Nakaulakuhikuhi and executive director at Ala Kukui retreat center Michelle Prest, manager at The Preserve Kitchen + Bar at Travaasa Hana

TOP: JOHN GIORDANI; RIGHT TOP: CHOW’S LUNCH WAGON; RIGHT MIDDLE: GOOGLE EARTH; BOTTOM: MARTI BLOOMQUIST

TOP: SHANNON WIANECKI; MIDDLE: BOB BANGERTER (3) BOTTOM: COURTESY OF CAFÉ DES AMIS

What’s the best way to experience Hāna? KK: You cannot just come to Hāna for the day. I tell people they have to stay at least two nights, so they can spend time relaxing at the beach or going up to the mountains and just immersing in the slower pace. The simple fact that you cannot get phone signal everywhere in Hāna can be a good thing—it forces you to decompress. What sets Hāna apart? MP: I’ve had guests tell me, “The rooms and views are beautiful, but we come back for the people and how you folks make us feel as part of your ‘ohana.” That’s how it is among the people who live here, too. We really are like a big family. KK: The land is just as much alive as the people are, and recognizing that fact is important for the longevity of this place. People who live here understand that, and so we have a respect for the land. It’s just one way we try to keep Hāna, Hāna.

Chow’s lunch wagon Hāna Bay

Favorite spots? MP: Hāna Bay is like our town square, and our parties or any other special occasions are all held there. It’s a very sacred area for us and we treat it as such. I love going to Fagan’s Cross and viewing the coastline. Whenever I’m stressed, I’ll hike up there; it reminds me how small we are compared to what’s out there, and that brings me peace. Are there any iconic shops? KK: There’s Hasegawa [General Store], which is an old momand-pop store that sells everything from buttons to screwdrivers to T-shirts to ice cream. And if they don’t have something, they’ll order it for you. When I need a gift for a special occasion, I’ll go to the I Love Hana Art Boutique, which sells items from local artisans. Favorite eateries? KK: Chow’s lunch wagon is just down the road from Hāna’s only gas station, and they’re pretty famous for their Korean chicken. Troy’s at Koki Beach is another great spot. His fish is fresh and he catches it himself. He’s only there on Thursdays and some Saturdays. What’s there to do at night? MP: [Preserve Kitchen + Bar] has a kanikapila [jam session] night from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. Thursdays, and some of our musicians and hula dancers come into the restaurant and entertain. Staff members or whoever is in the audience will just get up and dance.

Pranee’s

: They also recommended in roll f sur the ing tch Wa at Koki Beach or playing in the shore break at nearby a Hāmoa Beach . . . going for il to hike along the Pipiwai Tra g Waimoku Falls . . . savorin i Tha ’s nee Pra the flavors at from d roa the oss acr food hut ing Hāna Ballpark . . . or devour at ch a gigantic plate lun LA Braddah Hutt’s BBQ Grill.— Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Island Living ISLE 21

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ADVERTORIAL

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OUTDOOR LIVING Since 1998, Outdoor Living has earned a reputation in the Islands as the source for outdoor furnishings. With its beautifully curved design and the romantic feel of a garden set, the Sherena collection adds a touch of warmth and grandeur to any outdoor area. The Sherena daybed is available as shown, or can be custom ordered in a variety of other weave colors and textures, with or without canopy. As shown, with cushions, $5,500. Open Monday–Friday 11 a.m.–5 p.m.; Saturday 10 a.m.–4 p.m. | 261 Lalo St., A-2, Kahului | 808-873-8325 | OutdoorLivingHawaii.com

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ADVERTORIAL

MAUI HANDS Maui Hands galleries carry works by more than 300 select local artists and artisans in every medium and price range, including these gorgeous Daniel Moe pieces at our galleries in Makawao, Pā‘ia, Lahaina and the Hyatt Regency in Kā‘anapali. Come see why Maui Hands has enjoyed great reputation and success since 1992. Makawao store open Monday–Saturday 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sunday 11 a.m.–5 p.m. | 1169 Makawao Ave., Makawao | 808-572-2008 | info@MauiHands.com | MauiHands.com

DRIFTWOOD Our carefully curated boutique encompasses all that a Maui lifestyle has to offer, from the mountain to the sea. Stop in and browse our collection of locally designed goods, plus other finds from around the world, including these electroformed copper and aquamarine rings. Open Monday–Saturday 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sunday 10 a.m.–5 p.m. |1152 Makawao Ave., Makawao | 808-573-1152 | DriftwoodMaui.com

PINK BY NATURE Pink by Nature is a locally owned and curated lifestyle boutique with a modern yet rustic feel inspired by timeless pieces. We offer clothing, jewelry, accessories and an expanding home-decor store with many local artists and designer labels made in the U.S., including this classic stripe button-up by Rails and vintage-inspired medallion coin necklace. Open Monday–Saturday 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sunday 11 a.m.–5 p.m. 3663 & 3643 Baldwin Ave., Makawao | 808-572-9576

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MAUI MASTER JEWELERS Representing fine arts jewelers from Hawai‘i and beyond, we offers Hawai awe-inspiring gemstone rings, pendants, bracelets, necklaces and more. Visit us in store to view our entire selection, including this 18-karat white gold and 3.5-carat pastel blue star sapphire piece created exclusively for Maui Master Jewelers. Open Monday-Friday 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; Saturday 10 a.m.–4 p.m. | 3655 Baldwin Ave., Makawao | 808-573-5400 | MauiMasterJewelers@HawaiianTel.net | MauiMasterJewelers.com

HOLIDAY & CO Nestled in the heart of Makawao town is a charming boutique located in the Matsui Store building. Here you will find the highest quality fabrics, leather goods, jewelry, accessories and gifts from America, Europe and Japan, including Johnny Was, Hummanoid, NIKO, Evam Eva, Margaret O’Leary, Campomaggi, Velvet-tees, and others. Open Monday–Saturday 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sunday 11:30 a.m.–5 p.m. | 3681 Baldwin Ave., #102, Makawao | 808-572-1470

COLLECTIONS For more than thirty-five years, locals and visitors have flocked to Collections for the best selection of casual lifestyle clothing, like this summer frock from Inizio Italy. We also offer crafts, jewelry, soaps, and lotions by local artisans. It’s simply impossible to leave empty-handed. Open Monday–Saturday 9 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sunday 11 a.m.–5 p.m. | 3677 Baldwin Ave., Makawao | 808-572-0781| CollectionsMauiInc.com

1/30/16 3:43 PM

We Are. The Voice of Maui Luxury Real Estate. WAILEA | KAPALUA | KULA | HANA | LANA'I

RARE

Oceanfront Property Privacy, Mature Fruit Orchards, Builder Ready

A SPECTACULAR 2-ACRE, beachfront lot located in an exclusive and very private community in Olowalu. The parcel has an approved County of Maui farm plan, breath-taking views of Lāna‘i, Kaho‘olawe and Maui’s south shore. The owners will enjoy a lifetime of endless tropical sunsets and gentle breezes. The parcel is builder ready, comes complete with a producing citrus, mango and coconut orchard, features large monkeypod shade trees, and a private dual water system for domestic and agricultural uses. The perfect location for your private, oceanfront Maui home. Conveniently located directly across from Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop in Olowalu and midway between Wailuku and Lahaina. A MUST-SEE for the discriminating buyer.

SPECTACULAR

Kapalua Acreages With Stunning Ocean and Mountain Views

Honolua Ridge - Phase I, Lot #12: 81 Keoawa Place, Kapalua: 9.298 acres perched above Honolua Bay with a private access road that drops you right in front of one of Maui’s most alluring and special bays. Stunning views of Moloka‘i and the West Maui coast. The perfect location to build the home of your dreams surrounded by lush tropical gardens. The views are endless, the air is crisp and the beaches and golf are only minutes away.

Offered at $1,295,000

Property is offered at $5,800,000.

Honolua Ridge - Phase II, Lot #22: 242 Keoawa Street, Kapalua: 6.259 acres of breathtaking views. From your house site you’ll enjoy endless views of nearby islands, tropical sunsets and the deep blue waters of the Pailolo Channel. The site is situated near the top of the development, giving you easy access to pristine mountain hikes, the beaches of Kapalua and enough land to create your own private tropical paradise.

Offered at $1,595,000

JAMIE WOODBURN, R(S) | EMAIL: JAMIEWOODBURN1@GMAIL.COM | CELL: 808.870.5671 UPCOUNTRY OFFICE • (808) 572-8600 • WWW.ISLANDSIR.COM | EACH OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED

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Luxury Country Living SPECTACULAR RETREAT ON LANA’I 4 br / 3.5 ba / 1.4 acres | $4,000,000 LuxuryLanaiRealEstate.com

OCEANFRONT HANA BEACH HOUSE

UPCOUNTRY KULA KOA RANCH

CLASSIC ISLAND LIVING

3 br / 3.5 ba / 1 acre | $1,750,000

52 acres / cottage & barn | $4,975,000

3 br / 3.5 ba / 4 acres | $2,950,000

FROM KULA TO HANA, LANA’I AND BEYOND Find your upcountry ranch, enjoy Hawaiian architecture or discover your island retreat. Country Living has never been so luxurious.

WENDY R PETERSON Realtor® (S), HI License RS-61995 808.870.4114 • Wendy@IslandSothebysRealty.com EACH OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED

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FIND YOUR MAUI

FIND YOUR PARADISE KAPALUA RESORT HOMES

199 Plantation Club Dr • 4br/4.5ba • 4,118 sqft • 2 Acres 212 Plantation Club Dr • 4br/4.5ba • 4,790 sqft • 2 Acres

KAPALUA RESORT LAND

230 Crestview Road • 0.44 Acres 110 Keoawa Street • 4.3 Acres 707 Mokuleia Place • 2 Acres

KAPALUA RESORT CONDOMINIUMS

Coconut Grove 9 • 3br/3ba • 2,312 sqft Kapalua Bay Villas 12B3 • 1br/1.5ba • 995 sqft Kapalua Bay Villas 17-B1-2 • 2br/3ba • 1,892 sqft Kapalua Bay Villas 17B3 • 1br/2ba • 995 sqft Kapalua Bay Villas 30B3-4 • 2br/3ba • 1,697 sqft Kapalua Bay Villas 36G1-3 • 2br/3ba • 1,529 sqft Kapalua Bay Villas 38B2 • 2br/3ba • 1,447 sqft Kapalua Ironwoods 104 • 2br/3ba • 2,071 sqft Kapalua Golf Villas 15T5-6 • 1br/2ba • 972 sqft Kapalua Ridge1623 • 1br/2ba • 1,150 sqft

KA’ANAPALI RESORT CONDOMINIUMS

Kaanapali Alii 4802 • 1br/2 ba • 1,441 sqft Kaanapali Plantation 59 • 1br/2ba • 1,096 sqft Maui Eldorado L200 • 2br/2ba • 1,440 sqft • Leasehold

NAPILI & KAHANA CONDOMINIUMS

Alaeloa 46 • 2br/2ba • 1,276 sqft Hololani B704 • 2br/2ba • 1,098 sqft Napili Point I A8 • 1br/1ba • 604 sqft • Leasehold

KAPALUA RESORT FRACTIONAL

Residences on Kapalua Bay 3602 • 3br/3.5ba • 2,019 sqft Residences on Kapalua Bay 4506 • 3br/3.5ba • 2,065 sqft

COURTNEY M BROWN Realtor (S), Vice President, ePRO CB@LuxuryRealEstateMaui.com LuxuryRealEstateMaui.com ®

808.250.0210

ROB SHELTON Realtor (B), Vice President, BIC Rob@IslandSothebysRealty.com MauiLuxuryProperties.com ®

808.281.4024 EACH OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED

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 REAL ESTATE TRENDS  Left photo: Grant Chun, vice president of A&B Properties. Right: This past January, A&B broke ground on Kamalani, a new residence project, with cultural expert Kapono‘ai Molitau offering a blessing at the north Kīhei site.

Understanding Affordable Housing This past January, Alexander & Baldwin, one of Hawai‘i’s original Big Five corporations, kicked off the year with a groundbreaking for its newest residential development, Kamalani, in north Kīhei. The dirt-and-shovel affair also promises groundbreaking opportunity: a long-awaited and much-needed affordable housing component. On an island where most properties are out of reach for the average first-time buyer, this

is big news. We interviewed Grant Chun, vice president of A&B Properties, to learn more. How is affordable housing defined? GC It is neither low-income housing, nor government-assisted. Per the County of Maui, affordable housing must be attainable to buyers whose household income is 80 to 140 percent of median income. On Maui, median income for a family of four is $76,700.

W. Main Street, Wailuku, HI 96793 Maui Architectural Group | 2331 808-244-9011 | mauiarch.com

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How much will Kamalani’s affordable homes cost? GC Prices will start in the high $200,000s and go up to the high $400,000s for condos and townhomes. The pricing is determined through a formula provided by the County of Maui, based on median income and prevailing interest rates. The units will be available to the various income groups under different price points, as required by County ordinance. For those earning 80 to 100 percent of median income, homes will stay on the market at that level for ninety days. They can then move to the next income level, 100 to 120 percent of median income, for ninety days, followed by the highest level, 120 to 140 percent of median income. If, after that time, there are still affordable homes available, the County will open the opportunity to off-island folks [who qualify for affordable housing]. After all those markets are exhausted, remaining units would go into the mainstream market. The entire process takes about a year. What kind of demand do you expect? GC This is the first time we’ve offered homes under the County’s affordable-housing ordinance. Market research tells us there is a tremendous shortage. Therefore, we expect strong demand from entry-level buyers. When the first affordable units go on the market later this year, applicants will be invited to put their names on a list for the opportunity to purchase by lottery. They will then be vetted to see if they qualify.

Steady trade winds, sunshine and rainfall provide us with the unique opportunity to showcase sustainable practices that exemplify our care and respect for the `aina.

MCGB_MAG ad.indd 6

So families with a household income of $61,360 to $107,380 would qualify? GC Yes.

What kinds of loans are available to families interested in the program?

COURTESY OF A&B PROPERTIES

BY DIANE HAYNES WOODBURN

10/6/10 3:58:42 PM

1/30/16 11:18 AM

Sunny VerMaas Principal Broker Realtor, RSPS, ePro, TRC RB-16935 808.283.0141 SunnyOnMaui@aol.com

Maui Paradise Properties, LLC, is a Full-Service SALES AND VACATION RENTAL MANAGEMENT COMPANY founded by professionals with decades of real estate experience. Whether you are looking to purchase a home, land to build, or a special vacation rental our knowledgeable staff can assist you!

70 Paia Pohaku Street, Launiupoko, West Maui Offered for sale. This luxurious single level, 3,000 sq. ft. home in Launiupoko gives you unobstructed views of Kahoolawe, Lanai and Molokai. Elegantly styled, gated and extremely private on 1 1/2 acres of land. A separate 2 story structure provides a total of 4 garage spaces, additional storage and an upstairs office. Priced at $2,995,000

OUR MISSION IS TO PROVIDE CLIENTS WITH PREMIER SERVICE AND ALWAYS SERVICE WITH ALOHA! John Kevan Vacation Property Management Sales/Realtor(S)/RSPS RS-59508 808.283.9790 JKevan@gmail.com

VACATION MANAGEMENT SERVICE Maui Paradise Properties offers quality vacation rental management and “On Island Contact” services at rates that provide better returns to our owners. We have developed our business model by going over every detail, ensuring our guests and owners the finest experience. Our programs range from customizable vacation reservations and management, property management, and guest meet and greet services, designed to meet your specific needs. PLEASE VISIT OUR WEBSITE: www.MauiParadiseProperties.com

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« REAL ESTATE TRENDS » Best of Maui 2015: Best Home Furnishings

GC The best are provided by banks and other lenders that work with federal programs such as Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac. These programs are designed for first-time buyers.

Voted by the readers of MauiTime Weekly

210 Alamaha St., Kahului 808.873.6910 mauihue.com

Need aLittle Little Need a Little Need a Freedom? Freedom? Freedom? Need a Little When it comes to your health, freedom to choose may be very important to you. That’s When it comes to your freedom to choosetomay behealth very whyhealth, it could be valuable have insurance that: be valuable to have health important to you. That’s why it could

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Are the rates more favorable for those qualifying for affordable housing? GC Yes. Federally assisted loans may offer lower rates, and also lower-percentage down payment. An important thing to know about some of these loan programs is homebuyer education. Since the economic downturn, many lenders now require the borrower to take an approved course in home buying, which includes a one-on-one counseling session and a credit report. Many folks earn enough money, but because of their lifestyle, may not qualify for a loan. The course provides information on what a mortgage is, what the costs of homeownership really are, and what responsibilities the borrower is accepting when taking out a loan. A&B is requiring first-time applicants to take such a course to be eligible for Kamalani’s sales lottery, so that when it comes time to apply for the loan, they’ll have the best chance to qualify.

• Gives you a choice insurance of specialists, with virtually no ith a standardized Medicare supplement plan, Let’s Freedom Together referralsFind needed. at’s theLet’s kind of freedom you get. Find Freedom Together

Who offers these classes? GC The course is currently provided through Hale Maha‘olu for $75, and is two sessions. A variety of dates are offered, plus an online version. Potential borrowers who complete the class receive certification that they have satisfied the requirement for these loans. This is a great tool, regardless of whether the borrower is interested in Kamalani or another project.

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How much of Kamalani is set aside for affordable housing? GC Out of 600 units, 170 in the first increment will be affordable: two- and threebedroom condos and townhomes.

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Licensed insurance agent contracted with UnitedHealthcare 808-344-4157 Licensed insurance agent contracted with UnitedHealthcare John Peters 808-344-4157 John.Peters@Ymail.com 808-344-4157

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Please note that you must be an AARP member to808-344-4157 enroll in an AARP Medicare Supplement Plan. If you are not a member, you can join AARP when you enroll. note that you must be an AARP member enroll inby anUnitedHealthcare AARP Medicare Supplement Plan.Company. If you are not a member, you canInsurance join AARP when you enroll. AARP endorses the AARP Please Medicare Supplement Insurance Plans, to insured Insurance UnitedHealthcare Company pays John.Peters@Ymail.com AARP the AARP Medicare Supplement Insurance Plans, for insured UnitedHealthcare UnitedHealthcare Insurance Company pays royalty fees to AARP for the useendorses of its intellectual property. These fees are used the by general purposesInsurance of AARP.Company. AARP and its affiliates are not insurers. royalty fees to AARP for the use of its intellectual property. These fees are used for the general purposes of AARP. AARP and its affiliates are not insurers. AARP does not employ or endorse agents, brokers or producers. AARP does not employ or endorse agents, brokers or producers. by must UnitedHealthcare Insurance Company, Horsham, PAMedicare (UnitedHealthcare Insurance of New York, NYjoin for York residents). Policy Insured by UnitedHealthcare Insurance Company, Horsham, PA (UnitedHealthcare Insurance Company of NewIslandia, York, NYNew for New York residents). Policy e noteInsured that you be an AARP member to enroll in an AARP Supplement Plan. IfCompany you are not a member, youIslandia, can AARP when you enroll. Form No. GRP 79171 GPS-1 some(G-36000-4). states, plans maystates, be available ageunder 65 who arewho eligible for Medicare bybyreason Form(G-36000-4). No. GRP 79171InGPS-1 In some plans maytobepersons available under to persons age 65 are eligible for Medicare reasonof of disability disability endorses the AARP Medicare Supplement Insurance Plans, insured by UnitedHealthcare Insurance Company. UnitedHealthcare Insurance Company pays or End-Stage Renal Disease. or End-Stage Renal Disease. ty feesNot to connected AARP for the useorofendorsed its connected intellectual property. These fees used foror the purposes of AARP. AARP and its affiliates are not insurers. Not with or endorsed by the U.S. Government thegeneral federal Medicare program. with by the U.S. Government or are the federal Medicare program. This is a solicitation insurance. A licensed insurance agent/producer contact you. doesThis not employ or endorse agents, brokers orofproducers. is a solicitation of insurance. A licensed insurance agent/producer may contactmay you. Call theCompany, licensed insurance agentPA at the telephone number inInsurance this advertisement for complete includingNY benefits, costs, eligibility requirements, ed by Call UnitedHealthcare Insurance Horsham, (UnitedHealthcare Company of Newinformation York, Islandia, New York residents). Policy the licensed insurance agent at telephone number in this advertisement for complete information including benefits,for costs, eligibility requirements, exclusions andthe limitations. No. GRP 79171and GPS-1 (G-36000-4). In some states, plans may be available to persons under age 65 who are eligible for Medicare by reason of disability exclusions limitations. d-Stage Renal Disease. AS2722ST (03-14) NM

AS2722ST (03-14)by the U.S. Government or the federal Medicare program. connected with or endorsed NM is a solicitation of insurance. A licensed insurance agent/producer may contact you. he licensed insurance agent the telephone number in this advertisement for complete information including benefits, costs, eligibility requirements, 30at ISLE MauiMagazine.net sions and limitations.

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Are there rules for resale of affordable housing? GC Yes. The owner is not allowed to sell the home until after a specified number of years. Owners who want to sell before that time are required to offer the unit to the County first. Additionally, the buyer may realize only 25 percent or less of the increased value during the restriction period—that is, the difference between the purchase price and the appraised value at resale. For example, if the home has increased in value from $300,000 to $400,000, the owner may sell for no more than $325,000. The intent is to encourage true first-time homebuyers and discourage

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 REAL ESTATE TRENDS  speculators. After the specified time restriction, the owner may sell at market price. Affordable units are sold at a loss to the developer. For the first-time homeowner, they can be a huge windfall—if the owner stays in the unit for the required duration. What are the time restrictions? GC Ten years for those qualifying at the first level of affordability [applicants earning 80 to 100 percent of median income]; eight years for next level [100 to 120 percent]; and five years for the third [120 to 140 percent]. Are you working with specific lenders? GC Yes. Our lead lender is Ann Sakamoto from Central Pacific Bank. Bank of Hawai‘i and American Savings are also participating. What is your advice for families interested in affordable housing? GC Take the Home Buyer Education class as soon as possible. Seating is limited, and advance registration is required. To register, call 808-856-4045, or go online to Kamalani Living.com. The website also has information on eligibility requirements for the County’s Residential Workforce Housing.

32 ISLE MauiMagazine.net

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It’s where we stopped counting the days and started living in the moment. This does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of an offer to buy a unit. Nor is it an offering or solicitation of sale in any jurisdiction where the development is not registered in accordance with applicable law or where such offering or solicitation would otherwise be prohibited by law. Obtain all disclosure documents required by applicable laws and read them before signing anything. No governmental agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of the development. Further, ownership of a unit in the development will be subject to the terms of various documents relating to the development. The resort project described herein (the “Project”) and the residential units located within the Project (the “Residential Units”) are not owned, developed, or sold by Montage Hotels & Resorts, LLC, its affiliates or their respective licensors (collectively, “Montage”) and Montage does not make any representations, warranties or guaranties whatsoever with respect to the Residential Units, the Project or any part thereof. Island Acquisitions Kapalua LLC uses the Montage brand name and certain Montage trademarks (collectively, the “Operator Trademarks”) in connection with the sales and marketing of the Residential Units in the Project under a limited, non-exclusive, non-transferable and non-sublicensable license from Montage. The foregoing license may be terminated or may expire without renewal, in which case neither the Residential Units nor any part of the Project will be identified as a Montage branded project or have any rights to use the Operator Trademarks.

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Wine and food costar at The Ritz-Carlton’s Banyan Tree restaurant. Story by BECKY SPEERE Photography by MIEKO HORIKOSHI

Sunset views set the stage for a perfect dining experience at The Banyan Tree.

Have you ever entered a restaurant and felt as if you’ve walked onto a movie set? The actors—the staff— exude a pride that says, “This is a great place. I love it. You will, too.” Your server orates the six specials of the day with the panache of a thespian, describing the fine points of each dish, its preparation (sautéed, grilled, butter poached, roasted, sous vide), its sauces and embellishments. I can barely remember what I ate for breakfast! How can they remember such detail every night? If you love great theater, this is one show you can’t miss. As my husband, Chris, and I enter the dining room at The Banyan Tree, Kristen Dolotina greets us warmly. The RitzCarlton, Kapalua’s food-and-beverage manager infuses her professionalism with such aloha that it doesn’t surprise us to learn she grew up in Hawai‘i. She left her native O‘ahu to work in the hospitality industry up and down the coast of California, working for two James Beard Award-winning chef/restaurateurs, Michael Mina of Arcadia in San Jose, and Bradley Ogden of Parcel 104 in Santa Clara, and building a reputable career of her own along the way. She’s also a certified sommelier with the International Sommelier Guild and the Court of Master Sommeliers. “In 2008, I took a year off to live and work in wine regions in New Zealand and Italy,” Kristen says. “I started at Tupari Vineyards in the Wairau Valley, working there for two months, then moved to the North Island, where I worked on a vineyard in Hawke’s Bay. Once, while pruning the vines to reduce the number of buds, I shook up a beehive and ran faster than I ever ran, down a quarter mile row of sauvignon blanc.” As we recover from laughing, she continues, “I finished my year by moving to Montalcino, Italy, and worked the grape harvest at Castello Romitorio. It was absolutely the best year of my life.”

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Dining Seared day-boat scallops on cauliflower purée make a dramatic entrance, dressed with sweet golden raisins, roasted Marcona almonds and house-smoked bacon.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Mar–Apr 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Dining

Tender, braised beef short ribs are a showstopper, teamed with brown butter kabocha squash and pan-seared ali‘i mushrooms.

Kristen ended her travels in California, landing a job with Navio Restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton in Half Moon Bay. Here she honed her skills, sharing stories of her adventures with staff and guests. Realizing the value her experiences played in staff training, she coordinated a retreat day for front-of-house staff to work in the vineyards at Thomas Fogarty Winery. Kristen says, “This was an eye-opening experience for the team. As they made recommendations of wine to their guests, I would see some of them transform into storytellers. They gestured and spoke more fluidly and confidently about the character of the wine.” When a position opened at The Ritz-Carlton’s sister property on Maui, Kristen jumped at the chance to return to the Islands. Tasked with wine and beverage duties, staffing, and collaborating with kitchen management, Kristen brings an expertise that shows in the smooth operation of the restaurant. Kitchen operations are led by Maui Culinary Academy graduate and executive sous chef Ken Sniffen, and chef de partie Jonathan Haynes. A longtime Ritz employee, Sniffen oversees the property’s food service; while Haynes serves as lead chef at The Banyan Tree. Jonathan says, “I’ve been at The Ritz-Carlton for six years, moving here after graduating from the Culinary Institute in New York. Running The Banyan Tree’s kitchen has been great. We have so many fresh, local ingredients on Maui; I feel honored to work here with such great product.” Chris and I are eager to try everything. We request a special tasting menu with wine pairings by Kristen. As Jonathan and Kristen retreat to create our evening’s delights, The Banyan Tree’s barrel-aged mai tai and Thymeline mocktail—chosen from the Garden to Glass menu— appear before us. Made with thyme harvested from the restaurant’s

Crispy five-spice roasted duck debuts in raspberryhoisin sauce, tucked in a freshly steamed bun. We enjoyed ours with a Louis Jardot chardonnay, but this Penner-Ash pinot noir pairs as beautifully, with its deep blueberry and bing-cherry flavors.

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Dining Our Willamette Valley pinot noir was a tour de force behind The Banyan Tree’s seafood fettucine. For whitewine lovers, Kistler Chardonnay is a perfect stand-in, with creamy mineral flavors and rich texture. And for a grand finale, vanilla panna cotta with fresh berries and a rich, crunchy butter streusel. Encore!

WEB EXCLUSIVE Find the recipe for The Banyan Tree’s Thymeline cocktail at Maui Magazine.net/Banyan-Tree-Thymeline.

herb garden, the mocktail tastes herbaceously lemony, with a hint of sweetness from the lemon sour and muddled cucumber. Chris sips his craft cocktail, made with top-shelf liqueurs and distillates: a bright, smooth mix of tropical fruit with a float of dark Kracken rum. A basket of freshly baked lavash, with sweet butter sprinkled with pink ‘alaea salt crystals, is a perfect prelude to dinner. Our first course is day-boat scallops on a buttery cauliflower purée, served with sylvetta arugula, house-cured smoked bacon, Marcona almonds and giant golden raisins; it pairs perfectly with a chilled 2013 Louis Jadot Puligny Montrachet Chardonnay. “I chose this wine for its beautiful minerality,” Kristen says. “It has an elegant zest that compliments the decadent flavor of the scallops.” The chardonnay equally compliments our second appetizer: succulent roasted duck breast and rice-wine-pickled carrots tucked into steamed buns with a berry hoisin sauce. Our next course is deep-water onaga, tender and sweet, and Kaua‘i shrimp simmered in fresh tomato sauce on fettucine. Stopping by our table, Jonathan says, “I like to keep the flavors uncomplicated, so each component shines through. The fish doesn’t really need anything, it’s so fresh and sweet.” We agree. Kristen has paired the dish with 2012 Penner-Ash Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley—one of the best places to grow pinot noir, she tells us, calling our attention to the wine’s bing-cherry flavor and velvety texture. “The simple flavors of the seafood pasta parallel the

subtle oak flavors in the wine, while showcasing the bright fruit.” Not only are Chris and I enjoying the meal, but we’re also being educated on the finer points of wine pairing. The courses are paced perfectly, allowing us time to reflect on the food and the wine. Braised short ribs are next, accompanied by 2013 Lancaster Cabernet Sauvignon from Alexander Valley. Kristen says, “The refined tannins and dark fruit in this wine cling to the fat in the short ribs, changing the texture to silk.” We marvel at the pairing. Dessert is vanilla panna cotta with brown-butter streusel and fresh berries. It’s almost too beautiful to eat, but I dip in with my spoon and it is light and a quintessential ending to the meal. I sip my first taste of the intensely aromatic Tokaji aszú from Hungary. I love it! Kristen says, “Tokaji is one of my favorites . . . it has dried apricot and honey flavors and marries well with the berries and cream.” She tells us that the restaurant hosts a monthly dinner and silent auction benefiting different Maui nonprofits, like the recent dinner for Women Helping Women. With auction items that include stays at The Ritz-Carlton, and dinners at The Banyan Tree, the nonprofit is clearly not the only beneficiary. Kristen also tells us about changes the coming months will bring to the restaurant and bar’s décor, and exclusive chef’s table wine dinners that will showcase Jonathan’s cuisine. Vowing to check with The Ritz’s concierge for a schedule, Chris and I depart, giving The Banyan Tree’s performance two enthusiastic thumbs up.

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UNCOMPROMISING SINCE 1985

Mahalo for selecting us, Best Fish/Seafood and Best Wine List in 2015!

Founder/CEO Aaron Placourakis was raised around great food. And like all Greeks, he was instilled with the belief that “family” isn’t limited to close relatives, but includes all who are gathered around the table. It’s an approach that’s perfected by his team, who greet you at the door as a friend. We invite you to join us. Be a part of the family. Create unforgettable memories in the most spectacular settings on earth. And rediscover the joy of good living.

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Dining » HIGHLIGHTS

HĀNA

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

WAIEHU

TAVERNA The poet Archestratus, author of the world’s first cookbook, would like dining here, I think, as I savor my carpaccio and sylvetta arugula appetizer: thinly sliced beef filet topped with fresh greens drizzled with truffle oil, drops of lemon juice, and shavings of salty Parmesan Reggiano. Polpette, meatballs simmered in tomato sauce and served on grilled ciabatta, are meaty without being heavy—a mouthful of long-simmered flavors. “Watching my grandmother prepare red sauce was like going to church,” says Chef Roger Stettler, whose own stamp of approval came when his mother, Maria Lucia (also a great cook), visited Maui to oversee the opening menu. Pasta made in-house is sous chef Chelsea’s sole responsibility; the texture is something you can’t capture in a boxed product. Pasta alla carbonara, tossed with pancetta, parmesan and egg, is seductively rich but light. Taverna’s signature fish preparation, with its sweet-and-sour agrodolce sauce, marries salty capers and Castelveltrano olives with honey-vinegar-simmered eggplant, a perfect foil to the fatty richness of salmon, the fish du jour. Cap the meal with ristretto and grappa à la Chef Roger, who says, “Stir a little sugar into the espresso and drink that quickly; swirl a little grappa in the cup to capture the rest of the espresso and sugar; then drink the rest of the grappa.” Buon gusto!

THE PRESERVE KITCHEN + BAR AT TRAVAASA HANA After a two-hour drive to Hāna, I feel entitled to a good meal and a cold drink. At Travaasa, the upscale resort here in the town of Queen Ka‘ahumanu’s birth, Chef Jason Johnson has procured a menu befitting a queen. Formerly of the Big Island’s Volcano House Restaurant, Johnson incorporates local vegetables, fish, and Maui Cattle Company grass-fed beef in his menus; the tastes of Hāna have never been better. If you arrive during happy hour, settle in at the open-air bar with a mocktail or cocktail infused with passionfruit, lime, and Maui pineapple, created by kama‘āina (native-born) restaurant manager Sharon Jahns. Try the chef’s popular tempura musubi trio filled with crab and lobster, charred hibachi eggplant, and pork belly. Or wash down a white-cheddar cheeseburger on brioche with a mai tai. If you favor something green, I recommend the arugula salad: goat-cheese and fig sprinkled with macadamia nuts and balsamic vinaigrette. At dinner, hibachi ali‘i mushrooms on parsley, cilantro and garlicinfused chimichurri sauce are a must-have appetizer. ‘Ahi and mahimahi pulled from local waters are seared to a tender perfection and served on a pool of creamy wasabi butter sauce, alongside coconut-jasmine rice and sautéed bok choy. Save room for whitecoconut cake and Maui specialty coffees.

2000 Village Rd., Kapalua | 808-667-CIAO (2426) | TavernaMaui.com

Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna | 808-359-2401 | Travaasa.com/hana

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UA K APAL KU LA

MEDITERRANEAN GRILL / NORTH AND SOUTH INDIAN CUISINE When Lebanese brothers Sal and Sam Balout shipped two fully equipped food trucks here from Oregon, they intended to sell Eastern Mediterranean cuisine all across Maui. After a few months, they parked the trucks permanently at Ha‘ikū Marketplace. Locals have been queuing up to place orders ever since. At one truck, the Balouts serve generous portions of chicken or lamb shawarma, gyros, kafta, kabobs and falafel that carry customers on an exotic food journey to the brothers’ Middle Eastern roots. At the other, Harpreet and Jason Purewal dish up sublime northern- and southern-style Indian cuisine, sharing their families’ heavenly spiced foods. My favorite, masala dosas, is similar to crêpes, but made with rice flour and fermented urad dal, and filled with curried mashed potato, onions and black mustard seed. It’s perfect for a snack or light lunch. A side of black-mustardseed-studded coconut chutney is the classic condiment, but tamarind or mint chutney is a delicious tart-sweet stand-in for dipping. Try the chicken curry, chana dal salad, lemon rice and spiced raita, or vegetarian korma in cashew cream with coconut milk for a satisfying meal over yellow turmeric rice. Harpreet’s truck doubles as a coffee hub in the morning for those looking for a caffeine rush. Ha‘ikū Marketplace, 810 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū | Mediterranean: 808-868-3518 Indian: 808-269-2778

FROM LEFT: MIEKO HORIKOSHI; TRAVAASA; BECKY SPEERE

One of the perks of exploring Maui’s less familiar places is discovering great little dining spots you didn’t expect to find. Need a map? Start here. STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

HA‘IKŪ

FROM TOP: FATT CHICKS BURGERS; BECKY SPEERE

Dining » HIGHLIGHTS FATT CHICKS BURGERS Maui’s coconut wireless is abuzz, as locals and visitors discover this little jewel of a restaurant located on a knoll overlooking the pristine oceanfront Waiehu Golf Course. For breakfast, try the cornflake-crusted French toast made with egg-rich sweet bread and served with crème anglaise and maple syrup. For a true local-style option, Chef Bonny’s kim chee loco moco with ground-beef patties will fire up your 9 a.m. golf game, or keep you going well into your afternoon shopping spree. The oh-so-savory gravy and the limu kohu chili-pepper water accompanying the hamburger plate lunch could easily stand

alone on white rice. Add the hamburger, and, bingo, it’s love at first bite. My Caprese burger—a chubby medium-rare meat-bomb on a toasted bun with roasted garlic pesto aioli, crispy fried onions, tomato, melted mozzarella and capers—came drizzled with a balsamic reduction and served alongside hot home-style fries. I need to go back for happy hour; I think the crispy chicken-wing appetizer tossed in kalbi sauce was calling my name. Catering and takeout are available, and FYI, ain’t no fat chicks here. . . .

KULA BISTRO It’s morning, and you’re enjoying a scenic Upcountry drive—when hunger pangs distract you. Head to this local hangout and order the Maryland-style crab-cakes eggs Benedict on sautéed spinach, topped with buttery, house-made hollandaise. Or dig into whitechocolate macadamia pancakes with honey butter and maple syrup. At a recent lunch, friends raved about the fresh monchong on a bed of sautéed spinach with classic beurre blanc. The Bistro’s grilled chicken sandwich, dressed with pesto aioli on focaccia, is one of

my favorite choices; it’s served alongside a Caesar salad generous enough for lunch the next day. Hamburgers made with 100 percent ground sirloin are cooked the way you like them. A stroll past the pastry case will challenge your will power with baked goods ranging from a chunky chocolate-chocolate macadamia cookie to liliko‘i (passionfruit) cheesecake. If you can’t pack any more into your tummy, I suggest a takeaway. You’ll thank yourself later.

Waiehu Golf Course, 200B Halewaiu Rd., Waiehu | 808-242-6666 | FattChicks Burgers.com

4566 Lower Kula Hwy., Kula | 808-871-2960 KulaBistro.com

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« BECKY’S BACKYARD »

OBACHAN’S PICKLE

Fired with slivers of Hawaiian chili pepper, fermented cabbage is a versatile condiment that delivers a healthy dose of fiber, probiotics, and a gustatory kick.

STORY BY BECKY SPEERE | PHOTOGRAPHY BY TORI SPEERE “Do you know how to pickle?” my editor asked me. “Of course!” I replied. “All you need is a rock.” As a third-generation, half-Japanese child growing up in Hawai‘i, I ate pickles at least once a day. No dills or gherkins; I’m talking about the savory fermented cabbage that locals call koko. Similar to German sauerkraut, it appeared on every Japanese plantation family’s dinner table. And, like the Germans, each household had a vessel dedicated to aging cabbage. My Sendai grandparents used a white enameled pot or a ceramic crock containing a heavy black river rock and a dark-brown wooden disk. The rock’s purpose: to press the water from the salted cabbage. Aunty Jane in Haka-

lau used a man-made press the diameter of a small dinner plate. About three inches thick and approximately five pounds, it was made of concrete imbedded with a steel handle. Aunt Elsie’s job was to keep the koko in stock for the daily meal. After prepping the cabbage and weighing it down with the rock, she would age it for two days in the sun, then rinse it under cold tap water, gently squeezing it by hand to remove the excess salt and moisture. I remember her giving me a tiny piece to taste and asking, “Do you think it’s ready?” As it crunched in my mouth, it tasted of salt and sweet earth. In its early stages of fermentation, we ate the cabbage with a flurry of freshly shaved katsuo boshi—dried tuna/bonito from Japan,

generally used to make miso soup dashi (stock)—drizzled with a little Aloha brand shoyu. As the days passed, the cabbage became more acidic, acquiring a welcome sour zing. At this point, we’d grind a nub of ginger to a pulp on the oroshiki (a Japanese grater that purées ginger root) and sprinkle it on the cabbage with finely sliced green onion and shoyu. The umami flavor spiked our appetites. We ate it with fried eggs in the morning, or at dinner with savory dishes such as chicken hekka, fried fish and vegetables, accompanied by sticky white rice. With the recent popularity of fermented foods, I thought I’d share this recipe from my obachan (grandmother). Happy eating and probiotic health to you!

MauiMagazine.net

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Obachan’s Backyard Koko Yield: Approximately 2 quarts Prep Time: 10 minutes, plus 2–4 days’ fermentation Ingredients • 1 large or 2 small head cabbages (4–5 lb.), washed and quartered stem to top • ½ c. Hawaii Kai (Moloka‘i) sea salt, or your favorite sea salt • 4 Tbsp. cooked rice, optional (Rice speeds the fermentation process.) • salted water (See Method for amounts.) • 1–2 seeded Hawaiian chili peppers, whole or sliced, optional Optional Garnishes • shoyu/soy sauce, to taste • freshly grated ginger, to taste • thinly sliced green onions • katsuo boshi, to taste Method Layer cabbage wedges in a clean, nonmetallic bowl (enameled or ceramic), sprinkling evenly with salt (and rice, if using). Place a ceramic or plastic plate on top of the cabbage and gently weigh it down with a heavy object, such as canned goods, or a gallon plastic bag filled with water and sealed well. Cover container with a dish towel or cheesecloth and place it on your kitchen counter. The cabbage will express water as it sits. After two hours, turn the cabbage over and redistribute the weight evenly, keeping the water in the container. Replace towel. After two days, taste a small piece of cabbage, first rinsing excess salt (and rice, if using). Enjoy now, or continue fermenting for a tarter flavor.* Rinse under cool tap water to remove excess salt. Squeeze cabbage firmly by hand, then chop into bite-size pieces. Pack into glass jars and cover with a saltwater solution of ¼ tsp.–1 tsp. salt per 1 c. water, to taste. (If cabbage is salty, no added salt is needed.) If using the chili pepper, add now, either whole or sliced. Store jar in the refrigerator. Garnish with ginger, green onions, shoyu and katsuo boshi at plating. Best eaten within one week after placing in refrigerator, but will keep for a month.

Top photo: Cabbage wedges, cooked rice, and Hawaii Kai green-bamboo sea salt are ready for the crock. Above: Koko toppers include katsuo boshi (left), shoyu (soy sauce), green onion and ginger. The implement at right is an oroshiki.

Below: Traditional pickle presses from the plantation era, late 1800s. At right, the heavy river rock I use to press excess water from the salted cabbage. This rock has a divot that doubles as a kukui-nut holder, useful for cracking hard-shelled nuts . . . but that’s another story.

*Reserve about ¼ c. of liquid from the fermented vegetables for your next batch of pickled cabbage. Natural yeasts captured from the air will inoculate your next batch. Shaved katsuo boshi and oroshiki may be purchased at Maui Chemical/TJ’s Party Pantry, 875 Alua Street, Wailuku; 808-244-7311. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Mar–Apr 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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dining guide B = Breakfast BR = Brunch  L = Lunch  D = Dinner N = Dinner past 9pm  RR = Reservation recommended $ = Average entreé under $15 $$ = Under $25 $$$ = Under $40  $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2015

WEST SIDE ‘Āina Gourmet Market, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2800. Chef James McDonald oversees this deli’s menu, right down to the sun-ripened tomatoes and Maui onions grown upcountry at O’o Farm. Deli. B, L. $ Alaloa Lounge, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. This stylish bar attracts a cocktail generation as lovely as the views. Sushi. D, N. $ Aloha Mixed Plate, 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322. Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $ Amigo’s, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210. Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, chile verde, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Huge portions. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ The Banyan Tree, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 RitzCarlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096. Start with coconut, calamansi and ‘ōpakapaka ceviche. Follow with

Maui No Ka ‘Oi Magazine ‘Aipono Award

Best Mexican Restaurant 2O15

house-made pasta, grass-fed beef, and local produce. Macadamia-nut crème brûlée crowns the night. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$ Black Rock Kitchen & Lounge, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808921-4600. Classic steakhouse fare with an island twist. Try the 16-ounce Black Angus rib eye or fresh catch with chef’s signature farm-to-table preparations. Kidfriendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, D. $$$ Cane & Canoe, Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Kapalua Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681. The bright and lively breakfast menu includes poke fruit salad, European-style pastries and top-notch barista service. Later, toast the sunset with Chateau d’Esclans Whispering Angel rosé and succulent grilled octopus with duck chorizo and saffron-coconut veloute. Food service at bar 3–10 p.m. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$

Lunch + Happy Hour + Dinner Fairway shops in kA'Anapali sangritagrill.com 8 0 8 .6 6 2 .6000

The Gazebo, Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-5621. Mac-nut pancakes, French toast and legendary fried rice served with an ocean view. Kid-friendly. American. B, L. $ Gerard’s, 174 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-8939. Chef Gerard Reversade delights guests with ‘ahi stew made “just like in the Basque country.” Terrific ‘ahi tartare, perfect pastries. French. D. $$$$ Honokōwai Okazuya, 3600-D L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Honokōwai, 665-0512. Plate lunches piled high with two-scoops rice and mac salad fly out the door of this tiny takeout shop. Local Mixed Plate. No credit cards. Closed Sun. L. $

Choice Health Bar, 1087 Limahana Pl., Lahaina, 661-7711. Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are all made with fresh local ingredients. Daily specials, and an epic entrée with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red-pepper sesame sauce. American. B, L. $

Honu Seafood & Pizza, 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390. Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$

Cliff Dive Grill, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031. Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. AmericanHawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$

Dollies Pub & Café, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Kahana, 669-0266. Hand-pressed crusts and stone ovens are just two reasons to try this casual restaurant and sports bar. Menu ranges from cheese steak and meatball subs to Costa Rican salad. L, D, N. $–$$

50% OFF FOOD

Frida’s Mexican Beach House, 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287. Chalupas, fresh chili agua ‘ahi, and short-rib tacos served with ocean views and fresh mixology. Latin-inspired. L, D. $–$$

Cheeseburger in Paradise, 811 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4855. This family-friendly restaurant serves up Angus beef burgers, refreshing salads and fun mixology, all with great ocean views, live entertainment and aloha. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D, N. $$

Cool Cat Café, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908. Burgers, chicken, fish and more, all within a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $

HAPPY HOUR 4-6 PM DAILY

Fleetwood’s on Front St., 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. (Yes, that Fleetwood.) British pub meets American restaurant. Kid-friendly. British/ American. B, L, D, RR. $$$

Drums of the Pacific Lū‘au, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234 Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Hawaiian. D, RR. $$$$ Duke’s, Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900. Imagine Old Hawai‘i at this open-air beach house while dining on crab-and macadamia-nut wontons or prime rib. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $$ The Feast at Lele, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353. This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Hawaiian/Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$

Hula Grill, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636. Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy kiawe-grilled ono on fresh spinach, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$ Japengo, Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4796. Savor delicacies like abalone sashimi, and shave your own wasabi root with a sharkskin grater. Japanese/Sushi. D, N. $$$ Joey’s Kitchen, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474. Morcon pork and raisin-studded meatloaf feature in Chef Joey’s loco moco. Try the braised short-rib pho atop rice noodles, corn and sweet peppers in rich ginger beef broth. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy. Kā‘anapali, 661-0011. The Sunday brunch buffet features a huge selection of traditional and Hawaiian dishes, champagne, and Hawaiian music. Kid-friendly. American/Pacific Rim. BR. $$$ Kai Sushi, Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200. Sushi Chef Tadashi Yoshino and his team work magic with spicy tuna, uni (sea urchin) and tai (snapper). Sip unfiltered Japanese saké and enjoy the coastal view. Sushi. D. $$$ Kobe Japanese Steak House & Oku’s Sushi Bar, 136 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 667-5555. Flying shrimp, whirling spatulas and late-night karaoke make this longtime Lahaina icon fun. Kid-friendly. Japanese/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$

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Lahaina Fish Co., 831 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3472. Grab an oceanfront seat and dig into fresh mahi and sautéed sea scallops in cream sauce. A wide selection of surf and turf, memorable tropical drinks, and a happy hour that lasts from noon to 6 p.m. L, D. $$–$$$ Lahaina Grill, 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117. This glamorous restaurant is always on point. Sommelier Richard Olson III suggests lively wine pairings for the famed ‘ahi and foie gras. Hawai‘i Regional. D, RR. $$$$ Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495. Awardwinning Chef Ryan Luckey rocks Hawai‘i-inspired flavors. Try the sesame-crusted seared ‘ahi with shiitake-mushroom-butter-soy sauce, or Korean gochujang risotto with salt-and-peppa’ mahi. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D, N. $$ Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600. The pies may win hearts, but the fried salad and home-baked breads also warrant repeat visits to this homey Olowalu outpost. American. B, L, D. $ Longhi’s, 888 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2288. For breakfast at this open-air landmark, try the eggs Benedict on thick toasted French bread. For dinner, use the jalapeño cheese bread to sop up sauce served with the Shrimp Longhi. Italian. B, L, D. $$$–$$$$ Māla Ocean Tavern, 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9394. Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the health-conscious and the hedonistic at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (Sat & Sun), L, D. $$ Mama’s Ribs & Rotisserie, 5095 Nāpilihau St., Nāpili, 665-6262. See South Shore listing. Maui Sugar Shop, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 662-0033. Delectable gluten-free, paleo and vegan delights like quiches, Belgian waffles, muffins, cakes and more. Bakery/Café. B, L. $ Merriman’s Kapalua, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 669-6400. Dramatic ocean views accent the largely organic and local menu. Hawai‘i Regional. BR Sundays, L, D, RR. $$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana, 669-9010. Sushi served on-site, takeout or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Japanese. L, D. $$ Ocean Pool Bar & Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Kick back with a tropical cocktail and pūpū (appetizer) beside the pool; the paparazzi should be there shortly. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Old Lāhaina Lū‘au, 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-1998. Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Hawaiian. D, RR. $$$$ Pacific’O, 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341. Owner Louis Coulombe’s decadent fish tacos and bahn mi sandwiches are memorable lunch fare. For dinner, try the lobster ravioli or coconut-dusted mahi with ThaiMaui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Mar–Apr 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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dining guide lemongrass-peanut sauce on black mochi rice. Spectacular oceanfront dining. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Pailolo Bar & Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Spicy, homemade Bloody Mary will rev your engines in the morning. Excellent burgers, tacos, and appetizers, plus ice-cold beer on tap. American. B, L, D. $ Pi Artisan Pizzeria, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0791. Handcrafted pizzas baked in woodburning ovens. Build your pizza with local ingredients like homemade Italian sausage and fresh tomato sauce. Italian. L, D. $–$$ Pineapple Grill, 200 Kapalua Dr., Kapalua, 669-9600. Try pistachio-and wasabi-pea-crusted ‘ahi steak served with coconut forbidden rice; or tender, Asian-style braised short ribs. L, D, N. $$$ Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar, 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636. Views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Pizza Paradiso Mediterranean Grill, 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929. Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Mediterranean. L, D. $–$$ Plantation House Restaurant, 2000 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua, 669-6299. Rock your inner Cajun with Rising Star Chef Jojo Vasquez’s Kaua‘i shrimp ètouffée, prepared with Adoboloco’s Hamajang hot sauce and scallion-polenta cake with lime crème. Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, L, D. $$$

I TH K I T I K TI

Prison Street Pizza, 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 6623332. East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Captivating! Italian/Pizza. L, D. $ Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200. Island cuisine speaks Italian! Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with a sweet zeppole, tiramisu or budino. Closed Tues– Wed. Italian. D. $$$ Relish Burger Bistro, Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. All-natural Kobe beef burgers, fish sandwiches, salads with island greens, and huli huli grilled chicken breast, served poolside in an open-air setting. Kid-friendly. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $$–$$$ Relish Oceanside, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fried rice with Asian-style braised beef, fresh mahi atop luscious and cheesy risotto, and possibly the best kale salad with chunky macadamia nuts you ever ate. Reservations at OpenTable.com. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$-$$$ Roy’s, 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 6696999. Celebrity Chef Roy Yamaguchi rocks vibrant local fish and produce, prepared with Asian attention to detail. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Sale Pepe, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667. Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items like pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta—like Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian. D. $$

AI CUISINE

E R S I TA URA N T A H T D PA

Sangrita Grill + Cantina, Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 662-6000. South of the Border goes upper crust with achiote-marinated ono grilled Yucatan style; fig-mole short ribs; and seafood Veracruz with shrimp, octopus, and fish simmered in tomato-Spanish-olive sauce. Mexican. L, D. $–$$ Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286. D.K. Kodama’s restaurant draws lines late into the night. Small and action-packed, this classy sushi bar is the place to try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$ The Sea House Restaurant, Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 Lower Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 6691500. Start your day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp while the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammy-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack-key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Shark Pit Food Truck, 78 Ulupono St., Lahaina, 298-7776. Kabayaki meatball sub, steak or spicy shrimp tacos with Korean aioli, USDA Prime beef burgers and fresh catch on a taro brioche bun. Food Truck. L. $ Son’z Steakhouse, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 6674506. Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soymustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, line-caught mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/Steak. D, N. $$$$ Star Noodle, 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 6675400. Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$ Sugar Cane Maui, 736 Front St., Lahaina, 214-6662. Chef Philippe Chin reimagines island cuisine with ‘ahi nachos on sesame-spinach salad, Asian BBQ ribs with purple yams, fresh tuna steak on wasabi potatoes and more. Asian Fusion. L, D. $–$$$ Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111. The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $

Performing traditional Thai dance at Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine Mon, Wed, Fri, & Sun 6pm to 9pm

After your long drive back from Hana, or on your way to the airport stop for a delicious meal at Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, Maui’s newest authentic Thai restaurant in Kahului or original Pad Thai Restaurant in Lahaina. Taste our house favorites: Thai style Filet Mignon in Creamy Thai Chili Sauce; delicious Panang Curry; or our famous Volcano Fish. Excellent vegetarian selections. You will love every bite. We cater weddings, reunions, private parties. LAHINA Pad Thai Restaurant Wharf Center, 658 Front St. (808) 661-9911 / 283-5202 Open Daily 10am–10pm

KAHULUI Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine 395 Dairy Road (808) 893-0026 Open Daily 10am–10pm

2 hours free validated parking at Wharf Parking Lot

Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 808-921-4600. Start with Oyster Dan—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko—then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate. Japanese/Steak. D, RR. $$$ Thai Chef, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814. This small, well-loved restaurant keeps West Side fans coming back for more with its commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $ Trilogy Excursions’ Sunset Dinner Sail, Mā‘alaea Harbor, 661-4743. Board a luxury catamaran for Chef Bailey’s four-course dinner. Choose a rosemarygarlic-crusted steak on roasted garlic demi-glace, wild-caught mahimahi with lemon caper butter, or vegetarian pasta. Open bar with cocktails, Maui Brewery and wine selections. American. D. RR. $$$$ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 790 Front St., Lahaina. Homemade tropical-flavored syrups like liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart.

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dining guide Additional West Maui locations: 819 Front St., Lahaina; and in the Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. Kid-friendly. $

and other favorites, served in a setting overlooking a links-style golf course and the West Maui Mountains. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$

‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506. Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, D. $$$

Da Kitchen, Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782. The Hawaiian plate feeds three normal appetites or one sumo-sized eater. Plate lunch favorites like chicken katsu, tempura fish, and Korean mixed plate won’t leave you wanting. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $

Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au, Westin Maui Resort, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2525. Fire dancers ignite the excitement, and hula dancers sway as you enjoy a Polynesian feast. Kid-friendly. Hawaiian/Local. D. RR. $$$$

Farmacy Health Bar, 12 Market St., Wailuku, 866-4312. Pono means excellence, which perfectly describes this organic eatery’s pono bowl: kale salad atop quinoa and tofu. The taro veggie burgers and the poi açai bowl with fresh fruit are a delicious spin on a local staple. Call in your order to expedite service. Maui-style, Takeout Only. B, L. $

CENTRAL Amigo’s, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 872-9525. See West Side listing. Aria’s Restaurant & Catering, 2062 W. Vineyard St., Wailuku, 242-2742. Luscious sandwiches, salads and entrèes. American/Pacific Rim. B Sat-Sun only; L, D Mon-Sat. $–$$ Bistro Casanova, 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 873-3650. This downtown bistro branches out from its Upcountry sister, adding paella for two, fresh-cut french fries, and burrata caprese to the menu. Mediterranean. L, D. $-$$ Café O’Lei, The Dunes at Maui Lani, 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073. Macadamia-nutcrusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine

Fatt Chicks Burgers, Brews & Grill, 200 Halewaiu Rd., Waiehu, 242-6666. The 19th hole never tasted so good! Kim chee loco moco, bountiful salads and ‘ono burgers. Nuff said! Go eat! Pacific Regional. B, L. $ Kula Bistro, 4566 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 8712960. Big fat sandwiches on focaccia, Upcountry salad greens with house balsamic vinaigrette, and buttery scallop appetizers will have you swooning. Fresh-fish entrèes and juicy burgers, too. American/ Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ Maui Coffee Roasters, 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-2877. Eclectic art and brightly painted tables decorate this popular gathering spot. At Happy Cappy Hour, 2 p.m. to closing, cappuccinos are special price. Coffee Shop. B, L. $

Maui Fresh Streatery, 137 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 344-7929. Chef Kyle rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Menu changes every few weeks. Food Truck. L. $ Las Piñatas, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 877-8707. Home of the famous Kitchen Sink burrito, plus tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas, and a self-serve salsa bar. Ole! Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $ A Saigon Cafe, 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 2439560. Squeeze into a booth beside local lawmakers and order Buddha rolls and lemongrass curry. The comedic servers don’t miss a beat. Vietnamese. L, D. $ Sam Sato’s, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 2447124. This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian. B, L. $ Tiki Tiki Thai Cuisine, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 8930026. Why go to Thailand to eat, when you can get the same great food on Maui? Fresh spring rolls, coconut curries, vegetarian fare and pineapple-fried rice will cure your Thai-cuisine blues. L, D. $–$$ TJ’s Warehouse, 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 244-7311. Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves up plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and a hot line of daily specials, such as potato croquettes, nishime and poke, too. Asian. B, L. $ Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului. See West Side listing. Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku.

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dining guide Wailuku Coffee Company, 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259. Espresso, ice cream and sandwiches in a relaxed setting. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ Whole Foods Market, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 872-3310. All things fresh and healthy. Order from the deli or construct your own meal from the salad and hot-food bars. Get it to go, or dine here inside or out. B, L, D. $ Zing, Main Street Promenade, 2050 Main St., Wailuku, 244-3707. Salads, soup and sandwiches with fresh local ingredients. Closed Sunday. B, L, $

UPCOUNTRY, NORTH SHORE & HĀNA Barefoot Café, 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna 446-5732. Takeout breakfasts like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or mahimahi plate lunch to go. Pacific Rim. B, L. $ Café Des Amis, 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-6323. Savory crêpes are served with wild greens and a dollop of sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney and raita, Indian yogurt sauce. Kid-friendly. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $ Café Mambo, 30 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8021. Steak, tofu, or duck fajitas are served with a lazy Susan piled with tasty condiments; or grab packed lunches for the trip to Hāna. Mediterranean. B, L, D. $$ Casanova Italian Restaurant & Deli, 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220. Order a

tartufo pizza or carbonara pasta at this Upcountry institution, and stay for the night’s entertainment. Visiting musicians make the dance floor one of the island’s hottest. Kid-friendly. Italian. B, L, D. $$ Colleen’s at the Cannery, 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211. Sink into a comfy booth and enjoy a roasted eggplant sandwich on homemade bread. The pizza is a well-loved standard. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D. $-$$. Flatbread Company, 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989. Big booths, charity nights, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies have made this a North Shore institution. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$ Grandma’s Coffee House, 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140. The eggs Benedict and made-fromscratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion. American/Coffeehouse. B, L, Snacks. $$-$$$ Hāli‘imaile General Store, 900 Hāli‘imaile Rd., Hāli‘imaile, 572-2666. Chef Bev Gannon dishes up fresh fish, local meats, and regional produce drenched in complex sauces. The towering sashimi appetizer is legendary, as is Bev’s crab dip. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $$$$ Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488. Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine. Every detail evokes old-time island hospitality, from the walkway’s gecko tiles to mahimahi steamed in lū‘au leaves. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, RR. $$$$

Market Fresh Bistro, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-4877. Chef Justin Pardo brings a passion for sustainable food to this courtyard gem. Try a breakfast frittata or pan-roasted crab cakes with corn succotash. Dinner Thursday through Saturday. Call for dates on special farm dinners. American. B, L, D. $–$$ Milagro’s, 3 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8755. The corner of Baldwin and Hāna Highway can’t be beat for people-watching. Sample fine tequilas and dig into ‘ahi tacos with sweet-spicy salsa. Mexican. L, D. $$ Nuka, 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939. Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with the paper-thin fried gobo chips, then the ‘ahi tataki with house-special ponzu sauce. Tempura shrimp udon is light and crispy. Save room for black-sesame or green-tea ice cream. Japanese. D. $$–$$$ O’o Farm, 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour. Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and freshly roasted coffee in this bucolic Upcountry setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted vegetables and dessert. American. B, L. $$$$ Pā‘ia Fish Market, 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030. The huge slabs of fresh fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the long line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $ Pangea, 810 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-5055. Earthto-table cuisine. Paniolo (cowboy) whiskey sliders, sublime coconut clam chowder, and daily seasonal

Just steps from the water’s edge. Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!

Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com

The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours. 505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com

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presents the

‘aipono wine dinner series The ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series brings you fine wines paired with superb cuisine at surprisingly reasonable prices. Proceeds benefit UH-Maui Culinary Academy. To sign up for the ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series mailing list, visit MauiMagazine.net or call 808.242.8331.

An exquisite wine showcase created by Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants

DRINK | LEARN | EAT | SUPPORT The next wine dinner will be hosted by:

The theme for the evening will be:

Spanish Wines Four Seasons Resort Maui 3900 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea Friday, April 22 Reception 6 p.m. Dinner follows Call for reservations. 879-2999 For menu, visit MauiMagazine.net/AiponoDinners $125 per person, plus tax & gratuities $25 from each dinner goes to Maui Culinary Academy.

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What happens when you combine the passion of Spanish wines with Wolfgang Puck’s Four Diamond, Four Star Spago Maui? An exceptional ‘Aipono Wine Dinner. Advanced Sommelier Charles Fredy presents wines from the Jorge Ordoñez portfolio, paired with a special menu by Executive Chef Cameron Lewark. Twice named one of twenty wine personalities of the year by renowned wine critic Robert Parker, Jorge Ordoñez produces naturally sweet wines that innovate while honoring tradition. Cameron Lewark apprenticed under James Beard Awardwinning chef Lee Hefter at Puck’s Granita restaurant in Malibu, and in 2001 came to Maui to open Spago at the Four Seasons. Under his direction, the restaurant has won numerous accolades, and in 2010, his peers voted Lewark ‘Aipono’s Chef of the Year. The father of two young sons, Lewark contributes his time and expertise to Grow Some Good and other communitybased food-education programs.

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lahaina fried soup yakitori

pahole salad

star udon

garlic noodles

singapore noodles

steamed pork buns hapa ramen

ahi avo pad thai

sake cocktails

specials, plus farm-fresh fruit cocktails, and half-off prices at happy hour. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$$   Polli’s Mexican Restaurant, 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-7808. The sign outside says, “Come in and eat, or we’ll both starve!” Follow that advice to find entrees like kitchen-sink burritos and grilled carne asada plates with refried beans and Spanish rice. L, D. $$ The Preserve Kitchen + Bar, Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401. Hāna-sourced produce and fish are the basis for an original menu created by Chef Jay Johnson. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juices and sours. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, RR. $–$$$ Ulupalakua Ranch Store & Grill, 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., Kula, 878-2561. Across from Maui Winery, find great deli fare and hot-off-the-grill offerings: lamb burger with tzatziki, grass-fed elk, venison or beef burgers. Plus homestyle chili and rice, or kalua-pork plate lunch with mac salad and rice. American. B, L, D. $

SOUTH SHORE Amigo’s, 41 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 879-9952. See West Side listing. Bistro Molokini, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Keiki as well as their parents will be satisfied at this casual openair eatery. Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh local ingredients. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $$$ Botero Bar, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. Named for the Fernando Botero sculptures that surround it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays—when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. Cocktails. L, D, N. $ Café O’Lei, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368. See Central listing. Caffe Ciao Deli, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Healthy vegetarian fare, deli sandwiches and spectacular desserts abound at this take-out or eat-in deli. Espresso drinks, baked goods and house-made gelato, too. American/Italian. B, L, D. $$ Capische?, Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224. Fresh, handmade pastas include kabocha gnocchi; strozzapretti carbonara comes with house-smoked bacon and Maui farm egg; lamb shanks are served on lemon risotto in a romantic garden setting. Italian. D. $$$$ Chez Mēmē Bistro & Bakery, 115 Kio Loop, Kīhei, 879-5425. Mango-nectar mimosas quench the morning thirst as you dive into tender brioche French toast, or a ham-and-Gruyère baguette sandwich for lunch. French-American. B, L. $ Coconuts Fish Café, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979. Fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers, fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D. $$ Cow Pig Bun, 535 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 8758100. If a Brandt premium beef burger slathered in foie gras butter, smokey bourbon-bacon jam and blue cheese makes you want to say, “Moo!” this is the place. Try Aaron’s cocktail with allspice liqueur, fresh lime and bourbon. Maui-style Comfort Food. L, D, N. $$

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Da Kitchen, Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782. See Central listing. Duo, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Duo reinvents the classic “surf and turf.” Japanese Kobe tenderloin (the real thing) and dry-aged rib eye are a carnivore’s delight. Choose a strong wine to match your meat’s performance. Steak/Seafood. B, D, RR. $$$$ Fabiani’s Pizzeria & Bakery, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888. Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with locally harvested tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made pork-sausage meatballs. Italian. B, L, D. $$ Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711. What happens to pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs when they’re smoked 15 hours over fragrant kiawe? Something amazing. Enjoy with sides like cornbread, chili-garlic beans, and two cabbage slaws: one sweet-tart, the other with blue cheese and apples. American. L, D, N. $–$$ Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8748000. For lunch, enjoy vegetarian quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, D. $$$$ Four Seasons Lobby Lounge, Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. D, N, RR. $$$$

Wine Enthusiast Magazine

America’s 100 Best Wine Restaurants 3350 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, HI 96753 P: +1.808.573.1234 | W: andazmaui.com

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Mar–Apr 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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dining guide Gannon’s, 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 8758080. Order drinks at the Red Bar, then enjoy Chef Beverly Gannon’s fine comfort food: maple-vinaigrettesweetened chicken salad, or venison atop Parmesan risotto. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$$ Humuhumunukunukuāpua‘a, Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234. If fresh island prawns in Thai ginger, tomato broth and tapioca pearls, or brioche- and lemongrass-crusted rack of lamb doesn’t make you want to dance the hula, the tender butter lettuce, Cabot white Cheddar cheese, Asian pears, and candied macadamia nuts tossed in a mustard vinaigrette will. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$ Joy’s Place, 1993 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9258. Brilliant collard-green wraps; sandwiches on thick bread; and awesome, daily made soups are just a few of the reasons to scout out this humble but bright jewel. American/Vegetarian. B, L. $–$$ Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Chef Isaac Bancaco creates seasonal dishes that change weekly, such as lobster bathed in vanilla-cream reduction, watermelon salad with Surfing Goat Dairy feta, and nuggets of foie gras malasadas. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$

and a Longhi Longhi Longhi salad (yes that’s its real name)—crisp romaine tossed with reggiano cheese, lemon-feta vinaigrette, and anchovies. Italian. B, L, D. $$$

Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade. Or opt for the Tuscan kale-and-hemp salad with lemon-honeymustard dressing. Italian. L, D. $$–$$$

Luana, Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210. This lobby lounge reimagines pau hana (happy hour) in lush tropical surroundings. Try the chef’s original appetizers, like the lū‘auinspired kalua-pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce, and lomi lomi tomato paired with ice-cold passionfruit sour ale. Pacific Rim. L, D. $–$$

Maui Thai Bistro, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8745605. Fragrant with kaffir lime leaves, the tom yum shrimp-fried rice just might become your favorite. Or try the green-mango salad with crispy fish, then finish with house-made black sesame ice cream. Curries are made to order with fresh herbs and spices. Thai. L, D. $–$$

Māla Wailea, Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 8759394. The brunch buffet includes the Mala Benny (with prosciutto, lamb sausage, or wild mushrooms), omelets and chilaquiles. Mediterranean. B, D. $$$

Memphis Belle Coffee House, 1794 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4091. Serious coffee and fresh-baked goodies to rev you up, morning or afternoon. Healthy papaya yogurt cups, bacon-brioche donuts, and the Black Market Cronut: croissant dough with dark chocolate glaze. Coffee House, Bakery. B, L. $

Manoli’s Pizza Company, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499. Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppini or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna. American/Italian. L, D, N. $$

Kō, Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100. Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer, and “On the Rock”—three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, D. RR. $$$

The Market by Capische, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 879-2433. Homemade breads and pastas, salads to go, and sandwiches like the Haole Hoagie: pepper-crusted turkey on sourdough with red-dragon cheese and cumin aioli. The full barista service features coffee drinks sweetened with freshpressed sugarcane juice, and the cheese is made on Maui. L, D. $$

Longhi’s Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883. Stop in for a crisp pinot grigio

Matteo’s Osteria, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 8798466. Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with

MiGRANT, Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9394. Chef Sheldon Simeon says, “Come my house. Eat!” At his “house,” MiGRANT, the Top Chef finalist prepares tender and flavorful hanger steak, pan-roasted ‘ahi belly, and spicy “AY KUDESH!” noodles. Half-off happy hour menu 4–6 p.m. Filipino/Asian. D. $$$$ Miso Phat Sushi, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8916476. See West Side listing. Monkeypod Kitchen, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322. Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and banana-cream pie. Hawai‘i-Regional/American. L, D, N. $$

a restaurant created by a man who loves to eat Serving Hawai‘i Since 1976

Best Award of Excellence Wine Spectator

Best Breakfast in Hawai‘i Zagat Survey

Restaurant of Distinction Honolulu Magazine Hale ‘Aina Award

Best Restaurant Honolulu Advertiser I‘lima Award

Best Italian Restaurant The Maui News “Best of Maui” Award

Best Mediterranean BEST Guidebook

‘Aipono Icon Award, Bob Longhi Maui No Ka ‘Oi Magazine

L A H A I N A / 8 8 8 F r o n t S t r e e t / 8 0 8 . 6 6 7. 2 2 8 8 WA I L E A / T h e S h o p s a t Wa i l e a / 8 0 8 . 8 9 1. 8 8 8 3 HONOLULU / Ala Moana Center / 808.944.3733

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dining guide Morimoto Maui, Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234. Iron Chef’s Masaharu Morimoto combines signature and Maui-centric dishes such as rib-eye beef burgers lobster roll sandwiches. Dinner catches fire with prix fixe omakase. Handcrafted mixology and a dazzling selection of sakés. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $$$$ Nalu’s South Shore Grill, Azeka Shopping Center (mauka), 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650. Generous portions served with aloha. ‘Ahi club with smoked bacon, and fresh fish and (hand-cut) chips will have you coming back for more! Burgers? Yes! American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ Nick’s Fishmarket, Fairmont Kea Lani, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-7224. Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. D, RR. $$$$ Oceanside Restaurant, 300 Mā’alaea Rd., Mā’alaea, 868-3481. Imagine the freshest fish— landing in the kitchen within minutes of the vessel’s docking at the harbor. Plus organic produce; burgers and pasta. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004. See West Side listing. Sarento’s on the Beach, 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555. Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, D. RR. $–$$$ Spago, Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000. Chef Cameron Lewark’s ‘ōpakapaka sashimi and perfectly seared Kobe beef match the trendsetting wine list note for note. Spectacular sunsets may as well be on the menu. Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ Thailand Cuisine, 1819 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8750839. Gracious waitstaff welcome you with a steaming pot of vanilla tea. Sticky rice served in a woven Thai basket complements the flavorful red duck, lobster, or tofu curries. Thai. L, D. $–$$

Pā‘ia Fish Market South Side, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888. See North Shore listing.

Three’s Bar & Grill, 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133. Three’s serves up eggs Benedict six different ways, including seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib. For lunch, try the Peruvian pork tacos, Three’s signature ramen, and greendragon sushi roll; for dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak. Pacific Rim/Southwest. B, L, D. $$–$$$

Roasted Chiles, Azeka Shopping Center, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357. Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Sip on giant margaritas and fresh mixology. Mexican. L, D. $-$$

Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983. Who would guess that a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, D, N. $–$$

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Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei. See West Side listing.

ISLAND OF LĀNA‘I Coffee Works, 604 Ilima St., Lāna‘i City, 808-5656962. Fruity açai bowls, pastries and espresso drinks offer a bright start to your day. Plus light lunch fare, Italian sodas, and Internet access. Café. B, L. $ Lāna‘i City Grille, Hotel Lāna‘i, 828 Lāna‘i Ave., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-7211. Set in a 1920s building, the grille serves fare like panko-ginger-crusted mahi on shiitake-mushroom risotto with soy beurre blanc. Closed Mon.–Tues. American. L, D. RR. $$$ Nobu Lāna‘i, Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-2393. A stellar sushi bar keeps company with eclectic entrées like vegetable falafel, artisanal flatbread, and fish ‘n’ chips. Sushi/Seafood. D. $$$ One Forty, Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-2290. Inspired by Lāna‘i’s 140-square-mile footprint, and the temperature for perfectly grilling a medium-rare steak, One Forty features wagyu beef, local seafood, and tempting breakfast fare. Steak/Seafood. B, D. $$$–$$$$ Views, Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele Bay Rd., Lāna‘i City, 808-565-2230. Tacos, skirt-steak panini, seafood salads . . . plus cocktails and brews to soothe that double bogey. L, Happy Hour. $$$ More listings: MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

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CELEBRATES 5 YEARS Mahalo Maui, for five remarkable years! #japengosfieryfive

MAUI TASTEMAKERS SERIES #mauitastemakers Taste the variety and flavor of our island at Japengo’s Maui Tastemakers Series. Enjoy a unique menu carefully crafted to feature our valued Maui partners farmers, fishermen, breweries, local distilleries and more. Join us for our next event and let us share with you how Maui continues to inspire our award-winning cuisine. Upcoming events: April 8 - Maui Brewing Co., June 10 - OCEAN Organic Vodka

For more information, visit japengomaui.com Located at Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa Free Parking | Live Music | 808 667 4727 Nightly Happy Hour 5:00pm-6:00pm

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calendar

LOOKING FOR MORE? VISIT MAUIMAGAZINE.NET/CALENDAR

Top left: Statements on Nature, through March 13 | Top: What is Mana?, March 6 | Above: Model Planes, March 5 | Right: Beth Cooper at Banyan Tree Gallery, through April 3

MARCH THROUGH MARCH 2

Celebration of Hawai‘i Viewpoints Gallery This annual exhibition of art relating to Hawai‘i benefits various Hawaiian organizations. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; ViewpointsGalleryMaui.com

Sarah Chang & Julio Elizalde Castle Theater, MACC One of the world’s great violinists, Sarah Chang performs classical music with pianist Julio Elizalde. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Lúnasa with Tim O’Brien McCoy Studio Theater, MACC The Associated Press calls Lúnasa “the hottest Irish acoustic group on the planet.” Grammy-winning songwriter/instrumentalist Tim O’Brien shares the stage, and the dance floor will be open. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

March Statements on Nature: A Survey of Printmaking Today Schaefer International Gallery, Maui Arts & Cultural Center (MACC) Printmakers from around the U.S. present works that span traditional and contemporary processes from the 18th to the 21st century, exploring paper-based installation and large-scale images. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org.

THROUGH APRIL 3

Featured Artists Banyan Tree Gallery Lahaina Arts Society presents Amy Madrin Justen’s watercolors of birds of Hawai‘i, and tropical scenes by Beth Cooper. Old Lahaina Courthouse, 648 Wharf St., Lahaina; 661-0111; LahainaArts.com

Lahainaluna High School Band Castle Theater, MACC Support the next generation of Maui musicians at this free concert. 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Juan Siddi Flamenco Santa Fe Castle Theater, MACC Lead dancer and artistic director Juan Siddi’s rigorous choreography captures flamenco’s rich heritage and infuses it with contemporary flair. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES Each week, a different Maui town hosts music, artists’ demos, children’s activities and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m. It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike. Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com

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Guys and Dolls Historic ‘Īao Theater Maui OnStage presents this screwball musical comedy that follows small-time gamblers and the dames in their lives. 7:30 p.m. Fridays & Saturdays; 3 p.m. Sundays. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-6969; MauiOnStage.com

Ka‘ana Kupboard Cooking Class Ka‘ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui Learn how to make pasta from scratch as Chef de Cuisine Ben Marquez teaches the techniques, recipes and tips that will have your dishes tasting molto bene! 12:30–2:30 p.m. 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea. Register at 243-4703 or AndazMaui Concierge@Andaz.com.

Model Planes Maui RC Modelers demonstrates radio-controlled flight for the public from 8 a.m. to noon most Saturdays behind the drag strip at Maui Raceway Park in Kīhei. For details, contact Steve Groff at 357-0251 or StephenGroff@Hawaii.rr.com.

Santana A&B Amphitheater, MACC For more than four decades, Carlos Santana has been a visionary force that transcends musical genres. Honored by the Kennedy Center and Billboard’s Latin Music Awards, Santana was named #15 on Rolling Stone’s list of the 100 greatest guitarists of all time. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Mar 4, Apr 1 First Friday Wailuku Mar 11, Apr 8 Second Friday Lahaina Mar 18, Apr 15 Third Friday Makawao Mar 25, Apr 22 Fourth Friday Kīhei Apr 29 Fifth Friday Lāna‘i

APRIL 13

Hawai‘i Contemporary Viewpoints Gallery Sixteen of Hawai‘i’s finest contemporary artists present works that exemplify their craftsmanship and vision. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; View pointsGalleryMaui.com

What Is Mana? McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Is it spirit? A life force? Community experts discuss this topic and what it might mean to you. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Lee Brice & Tyler Farr A&B Amphitheater, MACC Nashville comes to Maui as two of country music’s biggest artists perform under the stars. 6 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Baldwin High School Band Castle Theater, MACC Attend this free concert and be able to boast that you saw these young musicians before they were famous. 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Hawai‘i Symphony Orchestra Castle Theater, MACC This Spanish-themed concert features pianist Joyce Yang. Maestro Joel Revzens conducts. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

APRIL 29

Solo Artist Exhibition Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center Melissa Chimera presents Agents of Change, mixedmedia works that examine extinction, globalization, and our role as humans in these processes. Gabrielle Anderman explores her relationship to the present in Being Here. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 5726560; HuiNoeau.com

LEFT & MIDDLE TOP: COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER; MIDDLE: RC MODELERS; RIGHT: COURTESY OF BANYAN TREE GALLERY

THROUGH MARCH 13

420

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MARCH HIGHLIGHTS

TASTE OF SCHOOL GARDENS Hotel Wailea Grow Some Good’s annual fundraiser features top Maui chefs creating gourmet dishes using ingredients grown in school gardens, plus fine wines, music, and a silent auction. Proceeds benefit school-garden programs around Maui. 5–8:30 p.m. 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea; Grow SomeGood.org

FANTASIA BALL Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa Hosted by Imua Family Services, this popular gala helps fund therapeutic services for children with special needs. This year’s ball goes Hollywood with musical theatre and television actress Megan Hilty, and includes a cocktail reception, gourmet dinner, and entertainment, beginning at 5 p.m. Then join Fantasia on the Rock, with DJ beats until 2 p.m. 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali. Tickets: ImuaFamilyServices.org

1219

FROM TOP: MIEKO HORIKOSHI; COURTESY OF IMUA FAMILY SERVICES

Disney’s Alice in Wonderland Historic ‘Īao Theater Travel down the rabbit hole with students from Maui OnStage’s youth program. 11 a.m. Saturdays; 1 p.m. Sundays. 68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-6969; MauiOnStage.com

Duo Diorama Makawao Union Church Ebb & Flow Arts presents a free concert with violinist Minghuan Xu and pianist Winston Choi. Preconcert discussion at 6:30 p.m. 1445 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 876-1854; EbbAndFlowArts.org

The Leprechaun Chase Kahului Ale House This three-mile run/walk lives up to its name—really, there’s a costumed leprechaun leading the pack. Bring the little people; the event is preceded by a kids’ 100-meter dash. 5:30 p.m. 355 E. Kamehameha Ave., Kahului; register at MauiRunning.com

Midtown Men Castle Theater, MACC Four stars from the original cast of Broadway’s Jersey Boys celebrate the music that defined the sixties. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 2427469; MauiArts.org. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Mar–Apr 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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The Leprechaun Chase, March 17 »

APRIL HIGHLIGHTS

Ho‘omau Maui Nui Botanical Gardens This benefit for Pūnana Leo o Maui Hawaiian language immersion school features Hawaiian music, crafters, food booths, demonstrations, live and silent auctions, keiki (children’s) zone, and more. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org. Pūnana Leo: 244-5676; Hoomau.com

Tinsel Town Nights Manoli’s Pizza Company Join Montessori Hale O Keiki for this glamorous benefit featuring dinner, live and silent auctions and dancing. 6–11 p.m. 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea; 874-7441

Tracy Morgan, April 8

Lisa Fischer & Grant Baton Castle Theater, MACC After decades of singing background for icons like the Rolling Stones, Tina Turner, Chaka Khan and Nine Inch Nails, Fischer is taking center stage. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

2527

Spring Pops Castle Theater, MACC Maui Pops Orchestra’s annual concert features pianist Ian Parker playing music by Tchaikovsky. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org An Evening in the Gardens Maui Nui Botanical Gardens This benefit for the Gardens’ programs features Hawaiian music, hula, a silent auction, cocktails, and dinner prepared by chef and Hawaiian cultural practitioner Kealoha Domingo. 5–9 p.m. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; mnbg.org

Free Samples!

Celebration of the Arts The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua Free workshops, arts and crafts, cultural discussions, films and more will celebrate all things Hawaiian. 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua; 669-6200; Kapalua CelebrationOfTheArts.com

Art Maui Schaefer International Gallery, MACC Maui’s longest-running juried competition showcases work by the island’s artists. Reception March 26. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

lahaina shop

kihei shop

815 Front Street 1945 S. Kihei Road

www.HawaiiFudge.com ( 808) 495 - 6892 110

‘Aipono Wine Dinner Spago Maui Four Seasons Resort Maui The great wines of Spain take the stage at the next ‘Aipono Wine Dinner. Charles Fredy, of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, presents wines from the Jorge Ordoñez portfolio, paired with a special menu by Spago Executive Chef Cameron Lewark. A portion of sales benefits Maui Culinary Academy. Reception at 6 p.m., followed by dinner. 3900 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea. Reservations: 879-2999

MAY 20

APRIL

Spring Show Viewpoints Gallery Artists from Viewpoints’ ‘ohana depict Maui’s beauty in oils and pastels. 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-5979; ViewpointsGalleryMaui.com

1517

Jane Hirshfield McCoy Studio Theater, MACC The Merwin Conservancy’s Green Room series kicks off National Poetry Month with celebrated poet Jane Hirshfield. A reception and book signing follow. Proceeds benefit the conservancy. 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Girls Guns & Glory McCoy Studio Theater, MACC The Boston band delivers sounds rooted in rockabilly, traditional country, and rock ‘n’ roll. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

Use promo code “NOKAOI” for online orders.

April APRIL 23

Tracy Morgan Castle Theater, MACC Standup comedy by this alum of Saturday Night Live and 30 Rock. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

FREE PIECE OF FUDGE with $20 purchase!

Carnevale di Venezia Grand Wailea Resort MNKO’s 14th annual readers’ choice ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards celebrate Maui’s best chefs and restaurants. This sell-out event benefits UH–Maui College’s Culinary Academy. See ad on page 93. Reserve your ticket at 242-8331 or MauiMagazine.net/Aipono2016.

Pōhaku Castle Theater, MACC Storytelling, hula, modern dance, classical music, and projection design explore themes of Hawai‘i’s native people. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org

1516

Chinese Kite Festival Wo Hing Temple See handmade kites in traditional and modern styles, and craft your own. On Friday, learn the history of kites in China, and enjoy traditional music, entertainment, and food from 1 to 7 p.m. at Wo Hing Museum. On Saturday, test your skills and watch aerial displays by Hawaii Kitefliers Association at Keka‘a North Beach. 858 Front St., Lahaina; 661-3262; Lahaina Restoration.org

Hawaiian Steel Guitar Festival Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel This free event gathers master steel-guitar players and aficionados for performances, workshops, and jam sessions. 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali; MauiSteelGuitarFestival.com

Hā‘ikū Ho‘olaule‘a & Flower Festival Hā‘ikū Community Center Music, arts and crafts, plants and produce, historical displays and more. Proceeds benefit Hā‘ikū School, Hā‘ikū Community Association, and Boys & Girls Club. Hāna Hwy. at Pilialoha St., Hā‘ikū HaikuHoolau lea.org

OluKai Ho‘olaule‘a Kanahā Beach Park, Kahului SUP and OC1 paddlers race the eight-mile Maliko “downwinder.” Back on land, activities celebrate Hawai‘i’s ocean culture. OluKai.com Carden Jamboree Oskie Rice Polo Field Dust off your boots and head to this paniolo-themed fundraiser for Carden Academy, featuring BBQ dinner, pie contest, music, dancing, and auctions. 5 p.m. 521 Olinda Rd., Makawao; 573-6651; Carden Maui.org Email your event to Calendar@Maui Magazine.net, or submit it online at MauiMagazine.net/Maui-Events. Listings for MNKO’s May–June print edition must be received by March 14. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.

TOP CENTER: COURTESY OF THE MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER; TOP RIGHT: JOSE MORALES

Wendy Liebman McCoy Studio Theater, MACC This America’s Got Talent semifinalist has performed at comedy clubs throughout North America, and on late-night shows including Carson, Letterman, Leno and Fallon. 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.Org

MauiMagazine.net

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who’s who

JOSE MORALES

‘AIPONO’S FINAL WINE DINNER FOR 2015 | Leis Family Class Act Restaurant | December 9, 2015 | Benefit for Maui Culinary Academy

L to R: Faye & Bill Seehaefer | Adele Rugg, Caroll McCauley | Joyce Miyamoto, Tim Pagan | Juli Umetsu, Linda Unemori | Teresa Blackwell, Amity Mason

ALOHA KALIKIMAKA | Yokouchi Estate | November 21, 2015 | Benefit for Pacific Cancer Foundation

GARY & PAULA ROSENBERG

L to R: Errol Buntuyan, Tim Tattersall, Stevie Gayle Stephens | Sarah Bakhiet, Nouna Bakhiet | Sara & Chris Smith | Julie & Bobby Baker

L to R: Amanda & Wade Robson | Ed & Eileen Takayesu | Kūkini Suwa, Nāpua Greig-Nakasone, Debbie Von Tempsky | Jon Yokouchi, Jan Ikeda

GARY & PAULA ROSENBERG

100 WOMEN WHO CARE | Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center | December 9, 2015 | Benefit for Maui charities

L to R: Chelsea Hill, Mandy Prouty | Carolina Bergeron, Annie Collopy | Roxanne Darling | Beth King, Debbie Sullivan, Emily Erickson

Were you at one of our “Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at Facebook.com/MauiMagazine. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi » Mar–Apr 2016 Celebrating 20 Years!

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Sat., April 2

9 am to 4:30 pm Maui Tropical Plantation

$5 Adults

Children (12 younger) FREE

Maui’s 2016 Premier Agricultural Festival The nineth annual Maui County

The first

2,000 get a

Grown on Maui shopping bag

Agricultural Festival, Maui’s prime event

to raise awareness about Maui agriculture

while invigorating Maui agriculture, takes place on April 2. We celebrate once again agriculture’s vital role in the economy,

environment, and lifestyle of Maui. The

entire industry, its allies, and supporters come together at Maui Tropical Plantation in Waikapū.

MAUI COUNTY

Free Parking

Grown on Maui Farmers’ Market and Friends of Agriculture 9 am - 4 pm / Free! Maui’s largest farmers market brings farmers, ranchers, entrepreneurs, and allies of agriculture under a giant tent to sell fresh Grown on Maui and Made in Maui products. They also share information about the services they provide to support a viable agriculture industry on Maui.

Maui Loves Agriculture & Maui’s farm and ranch families! 9 am - 4 pm / Free! Scavenger Hunt at 2:30 pm! Enjoy expanded family friendly activities - farm games, scavenger hunt, horseback rides, bouncy castles, keiki entertainment, livestock exhibit, petting zoo and more.

Localicious Maui! 9 am - 4 pm Maui food trucks and food booths showcase local, fresh and flavorful Maui eats, beverages and sweets!

Legacy Farmers Pancake Breakfast 8 am - 9:30 am / $8 for adults / $5 kids 5-12 years / kids 4 & under free Meet Maui’s legacy farmers, enter to win door prizes, entertainment, and more.

Fun

for the whole

‘Ohana

Presents:

3rd Annual Live Chefs’ Challenge 1:30 pm - 2:30 pm Main Stage / Free! 12 of Maui’s talented chefs draw knives to form three teams of four. Together they will create dishes using ingredients from a mystery basket.

FREE Shuttle to/from Parking

Grand Taste 3 pm - 5 pm / $30 for adults Features Grown on Maui proteins, veggies and fruits prepared by 12 of Maui’s best chefs. Attendees vote for their “Fan-Favorite” and media select “Judges’ Choice”. New - featuring Maui’s wine, spirits and craft beer producers.

Door Prizes Giveaways

All Day!

mauicountyfarmbureau.org #MauiAg

@MauiFarms

Maui County Ag Festival

 LOOKING BACK 

Goodbye, Sugar BY RITA GOLDMAN

The roads through Maui’s Central Valley cross endless stretches of young, green cane. Every few months, a vast swath of those fields is burned to blackened stalks to extract the sugar, and pillars of smoke rise towards the summit of Haleakalā. Giant claw derricks, spidery harvesters, and haulers the size of buildings traverse the fields in a ritual of growth, harvest, and renewal. Upcountry, pineapples blanket the hillsides, and flowers, fruit and sweet Maui onions grow on hundreds of small farms, providing thousands of Maui residents with food and livelihoods. What if it all stops? Michael Stein wrote those words in his story “The Growing Fields,” whose first part appeared in our Fall 2003 edition. As we pored over back issues for this, our twentieth anniversary, that story suddenly took on new relevance: Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar has announced it will cease operations by the end of 2016. The closure marks the end of a way of life—and controversy—that began here in 1823 with Maui’s first mill in Wailuku. “The Growing Fields” was neither the first nor the last time Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi addressed the challenges and opportunities agriculture faces on this island. In 2000, we covered the demise of Pioneer Mill Company; and as recently as July 2014 asked, in Matthew Thayer’s “The Burning Question,” whether Hawai‘i’s last sugar plantation could survive if it stopped burning cane—a moot question now, it turns out. In Stein’s “Water, Water . . . Where?” and Paul Wood’s 2008 “Na Wai Eha,” MNKO explored sugar’s other point of contention: the use and misuse of that most precious Maui resource, water. And in Jill Engledow’s 2007 “Power Plants?” and Stein’s later “Biofuel Battles,” we looked at some of King Sugar’s possible heirs. As this issue goes to press, state Rep. Cynthia Thielen has proposed legalizing industrial hemp as a replacement crop for those “endless stretches of young, green cane” Central Maui will soon lose. The king is dead, long live the king? Stay tuned.

Winter 2004

Spring 2004

Winter 2000

Sep-Oct 2010

114

Visit MauiMagazine.net and search our archive for these stories and more. MauiMagazine.net

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