Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine September-October 2019

SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2019

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HAWAIIAN HALE ANCIENT WISDOM FOR ISLAND LIVING

Montage Residences Kapalua Bay is exclusively listed by PowerPlay Destination Properties (Hawaii), Inc. RB20039

This does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of an offer to buy a unit. Nor is it an offering or solicitation of sale in any jurisdiction where the development is not registered in accordance with applicable law or where such offering or solicitation would otherwise be prohibited by law. Obtain all disclosure docum will be subject to the terms of various documents relating to the development. The resort project described herein (the “Project”) and the residential units located within the Project (the “Residential Units”) are not owned, developed, or sold by Montage Hotels & Resorts, LLC, its affiliates or their respective licensors (co LLC uses the Montage brand name and certain Montage trademarks (collectively, the “Operator Trademarks”) in connection with the sales and marketing of the Residential Units in the Project under a limited, non-exclusive, non-transferable and non-sublicensable license from Montage. The foregoing license may be term

ments required by applicable laws and read them before signing anything. No governmental agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of the development. Further, ownership of a unit in the development ollectively, “Montage�) and Montage does not make any representations, warranties or guaranties whatsoever with respect to the Residential Units, the Project or any part thereof. Island Acquisitions Kapalua minated or may expire without renewal, in which case neither the Residential Units nor any part of the Project will be identified as a Montage branded project or have any rights to use the Operator Trademarks.

the spirit of hawaii Lives at Montage.

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F r o m m e r ’s M a u i

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FOR RESERVATIONS VISIT ANDAZMAUI.COM OR GIVE US A CALL AT 808 573 1234

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CONTENTS 76

ISLAND LIVING

48

REAL ESTATE TRENDS A Realtor Q&A with Island Sotheby’s International’s Debra Merle Story by Sarah Ruppenthal

50

HOME & GARDEN A Garden-variety Makeover Before and after at Maui No Ka ‘Oi’s headquarters

Story by Sarah Ruppenthal

62 AT HOME

Finishing Touches A dream house evolves on Maui’s North Shore.

Story by Sarah Ruppenthal

FEATURES

70

HAWAIIAN SOUL Social Structure Indigenous architecture was shaped by—and helped to shape—life for the Islands’ first people.

ON THE COVER

Custom lei maker Lauren Shearer of Hawaii Flora + Fauna blends tradition and innovation to create these delicate statement pieces.

Maui photographer Amber Caires captured this image of model Jade Kostka displaying a sample of Shearer’s lei creations.

76

ADVENTURE The Pull of History For Iokepa Naeole, the ocean holds endless lessons in Hawaiian culture and tradition.

Story by Lehia Apana

12

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SHANOALEIGH MARSON

Story by Judy Edwards

AMAZE The experience of a lifetime, every time.

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Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice Best Shave Ice (Gold) Honolulu Coffee Company Best Coffee (Gold)

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Experience Aloha THE MYTHS OF MAUI LUAU Maui’s Premier Oceanfront Fire Show • Shell lei Aloha greeting • Complimentary Mai Tais and open bar • Traditional imu ceremony • All-you-can-eat Hawaiian buffet • Exclusive buffet for keiki (kids) • Dazzling celebration of song and dance across Polynesia • Epic fire knife finale • Breathtaking backdrop of Maui’s spectacular sunset

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CONTENTS

34 Remembering Big Mama Has Olowalu’s coral colony become the canary in the coal mine?

Story by Teya Penniman

DEPARTMENTS

38 #MAUINŌKA‘OI

22

Tag, We’re It!

BEHIND THE SCENES

40

It takes a lot of talents to make

Our fans get social.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

GREAT FINDS

Here’s what a few had to say.

We’ve gathered a few of our

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favorite things. . . .

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

by Diane Haynes Woodburn

116

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Seen making the scene on Maui

DAY IN THE LIFE Lady Lei

Compiled by Marluy Andrade

WHO’S WHO

118

Lauren Shearer puts a new

CALENDAR

twist on an ancient art.

What’s happening where, when,

Story by Kyle Ellison

and with whom

32

122

IN SEASON

A PERFECT DAY ON MAUI

Keeping It Hāna

Social Climber

Free Time

A new take on local fare at

This versatile vine wove its way

Exploring our island doesn’t need to break

East Maui’s historic hotel.

into the fabric of Hawaiian life.

the bank. Take it from our local guide.

Story by Becky Speere

Story by Shannon Wianecki

Story by Lehia Apana

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DINING

84 DINING FEATURE

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DINING HIGHLIGHTS The Great Pohole Challenge Five top Maui chefs share new recipes.

Story by Becky Speere

96 CHEF’S KITCHEN Best of the Fest Maui meets Mardi Gras at the Story by Becky Speere

98 MIXOLOGY Ayres del Atlantico Try this cocktail inspired by an Argentinian speakeasy!

Story by Becky Speere

101 Dining Guide A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island

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LEFT: RYAN SIPHERS; TOP: SHANOALEIGH MARSON

2019 Kapalua Wine & Food Festival.

GRAND WAILEA SHOPS PINK LILIA A LILLY PULITZER SIGNATURE STORE MAKANA – GIFTS WITH ALOHA MEN’S AND WOMEN’S BOUTIQUE CRUISE BOUTIQUE PINEAPPLE PATCH QUIKSILVER GRAND IMAGE BOUTIQUE BEACH & POOL STORE NA HOKU GRAND JEWELS OF WAILEA CHRISTOPHER EGAN GALLERIES KI‘I GALLERY PACIFIC DREAM PHOTOGRAPHY AKAMAI BUSINESS CENTER ENTERPRISE

3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, HI 96753 808.875.1234 • WWW.GRANDWAILEA.COM LOCATED AT GRAND WAILEA, A WALDORF ASTORIA RESORT

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SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS

Enjoy the hospitality of Maui’s plantation era at the historic Pioneer Inn on Lahaina Harbor.

Plenty of Places to Shop with over 14 Retailers ∏ Restaurants Atlantis

Whalers General Store

Tickets For Less

Best Western Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina (808) 661-3636 www.pioneerinnmaui.com

Publisher

Diane Haynes Woodburn

Vice President of Operations Michael Haynes Creative Director Paul B. Morris

Senior Editor Rita Goldman

EDITORIAL

Managing Editor Lehia Apana Dining Editor Becky Speere Home & Garden Editor Sarah Ruppenthal Great Finds Editor Marluy Andrade Website Manager Adelle Lennox ART

Associate Art Director Shanoaleigh Marson Event Photographer Mieko Horikoshi Promotion Designer Patt Narrowe MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Account Manager Brooke Tadena Sales & Production Coordinator Lisa Liu Advertising Sales 808-242-8331 CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION

Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. Controller Kao Kushner Subscriptions & Office Manager Nancy Wenske NEWSSTAND SALES & CIRCULATION

Subscription Inquiries toll free: 844-808-MAUI (6284) or visit Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net

National MagNet, National MagNet, Disticor Magazine Distribution Services

Hawai‘i MagNet In Room Maui Circulation CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Lehia Apana, Judy Edwards, Kyle Ellison, Teya Penniman, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere, Shannon Wianecki CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Amber Caires , Mieko Horikoshi, Shanoaleigh Marson, Jason Moore, Ryan Siphers, Forest & Kim Starr, Darla White CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR

C. M. Butzer E-mail Address Info@MauiMagazine.net Moving? Send address changes to Haynes Publishing Group, 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793.

Please note: If the post office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, Haynes Publishing has no further obligation, unless we receive a corrected address within one year of that notification.

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, and Eating & Drinking 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; 808-242-8331. ISSN 2473-5299 (print)| ISSN 2473-5469 (online) ©2019 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly U.S. subscriptions $21; Canadian subscriptions $29; foreign subscriptions $40. Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net

Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi—an environmental leader in the industry whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

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C O N T R I B U T O R S

BEHIND THE SCENES

What did it take for you to get this story?

When I called all five chefs regarding the Pohole Challenge story, every one of them enthusiastically agreed. “I love “The Great Pohole Challenge,” planned as a short piece, became

pohole!” was their first comment, even before accepting

a long feature at the last minute. The chefs agreed to recreate their

the challenge to create the dish. Now, fellow foodies,

dishes for a photo shoot, but had trouble finding the native fern.

go try these dishes!

So with pohole from dining editor Becky Speere’s backyard in

—Becky Speere, “The Great Pohole Challenge,” page 90

one hand, and a camera in the other, I set out around the island to photograph five chefs and their dishes within a few days.

Mahalo to the chefs for making time for us in their busy schedules!

—Mieko Horikoshi, “The Great Pohole Challenge,” page 90

Francis “Palani” Sinenci’s hale-building knowledge is in demand everywhere, and that’s where he goes—everywhere.

Before my interview with Darla White, over tacos at Coconut’s Fish Cafe,

I met with him in Hāna and on Hawai‘i Island, but missed him

I attended her presentation on false killer whales at the Humpback

on O‘ahu. This is a man who oversaw the building of a hale

Whale National Marine Sanctuary in Kīhei. I learned that these highly

in China. At least I didn’t have to go there, too!

social dolphins not only hunt together, they are known to pass around

—Judy Edwards, “Social Structure,” page 70

their food to other members of the pod before chowing down.

Of course, Darla offered to share her dinner.

—Teya Penniman, “Remembering Big Mama,” page 34

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Experience the Adventure of a Lifetime SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS

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KAUAI

BIG ISLAND

N O T E P U B L I S H E R ' S

“A

Dall day on the tundra

h, yes,” our bus driver says, for perhaps the twenty-fifth time, “on the ridge to the left, Dall sheep. Dall sheep, on the ridge.” My husband and I are on a “bucket list” trip in Alaska. First stop is Denali National Park and Preserve, almost six million acres of spectacular wilderness. We’re two hours into a seven-hour “wildlife tour,” and we’ve spotted one bear. “I have it in my camera sight,” our guide announces, projecting the image onto a drop-down screen. “That’s a bear?” I ask Jamie. “The resolution isn’t good,” he explains, “but yeah, that’s a bear.” We also pass a few distant caribou that look suspiciously like walnuts on pretzel legs, and once, someone yells out, “Moose!” A few passengers swear they see antlers, but I am not buying it. Dall sheep, however, are in abundant supply, and their presence punctuates our guide’s less-than-lyrical drone every ten minutes or so. “On the ridge, Dall sheep. Dall sheep, on the ridge.” Her Denali mantra transports at least half our group into a deep sleep.

“Our guide is missing the point,” my husband says.

“Where’s the story?”

My thoughts instantly turn to Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi. Story is what we do. Three thousand miles away (while I’m on vacation—just a little guilt), the hard-working staff at MNKO is putting the finishing touches on this, our Island Living issue. Inside, you’ll find a North Shore dream home nineteen years in the making, and see how a yard only chickens could love was transformed into an oasis. You’ll learn how ancient Hawaiians built their hale (domiciles and other structures), using principles western architects have incorporated since the early 1900s. Join Iokepa Naeole aboard an outrigger canoe and paddle the ocean the early Polynesians regarded not as an obstacle, but as a pathway.

Discover how lei-maker Lauren Shearer is bringing a contemporary approach to this quintessential Hawaiian art. And whatever you do, don’t miss this issue’s Dining Section! MNKO dining editor Becky Speere invited five top Maui chefs to take her Great Pohole Challenge—and we’ve got their inspired, eclectic recipes, just for you.

But story isn’t just about the words. It takes a talented, interpretive eye to bring text to life through design. If you are one of our loyal readers, you may have already noticed the magazine’s fresh, new look. Meet the latest addition to our staff, creative director Paul Morris. A native New Yorker, Paul received his degree in fine arts from Parsons School of Design, and has worked with various magazines, including George, The New Yorker, and Departures Magazine, as well as in advertising at Grey New York. Paul moved to Maui in May and immediately began immersing himself in the island’s culture and activities. It is clear to us that in a few short months, Paul has made Maui his home, and we are so fortunate to have him.

Back on our Denali bus ride, we ogle the scenery: the vast tundra, ancient spruce forests, snow-covered mountains and ancient glaciers. Later, at the ranger station, we learn that we have the modest Dall sheep to thank for this magnificent preserve.

In 1917, naturalist Charles Sheldon spent months in the tundra, counting Alaska’s white sheep. He became alarmed by their plummeting population; explorers and prospectors, hunting them for food, threatened the sheep with extinction. Sheldon successfully lobbied Congress for a game refuge, which later became Denali National Park. And by the way, Dall sheep are named for an even more famous Alaska naturalist and explorer, William Healy Dall (1845–1927), one of the founding members of National Geographic Society. Now that’s a good story.

And without a story, a sheep is just a sheep. “Dall sheep, on the ridge.”

COUNTING SHEEP...

Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

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MIEKO HORIKOSHI

A hui hou,

MAUI TROPICAL PLANTATION Discover and explore Maui s agricultural bounty A variety of eating '

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and drinking experiences surrounded by farmland

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The Mill House Restaurant Bar Maui Chef s Table Mill House Roasting Co The Scoop Kumu Farms Stand

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TALK STORY L I F E T H E I N D A Y

LADY LEI

Lauren Shearer puts a new twist on an ancient art.

BRANCHING OUT: Asymmetrical, wabisabi, contemporary and modern—these aren’t the kind of words most people equate with a fresh flower lei. That is, unless, you’re Lauren Shearer, who, through her company, Hawaii Flora + Fauna, crafts innovative, inventive lei in a style that makes them seem more like a necklace than traditional floral design.

A Maui girl who grew up making lei out of “generic” flowBack at her ers like plumeria, Shearer comHāli‘imaile studio, Shearer transforms bined her longtime love of plants the plant materials with aesthetic curiosity, and in she’s foraged into strikingly original lei.

2016 began experimenting with 26

MAUIMAGAZINE.NET

natural materials that most people don’t turn into art—much less put on a string.

She’ll take native flowers, like canary-yellow māmane, and pair them with small, lipstick-red petals from ‘iliahi, or sandalwood, and even craft wispy, purple adornments from invasive species like fountain grass. This colorful approach—and the power of Instagram—have rapidly made her one of Hawai‘i’s most sought-after floral artists.

EASY PICKINGS: While much of her day is spent needling through flowers (her longest lei took seven hours), Shearer also

SHANOALEIGH MARSON

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TALK STORY D A Y

I N

T H E

L I F E

Though her tools may be conventional, Shearer’s designs and choice of materials are anything but. To see more of her artistry and learn about her company, Hawaii Flora + Fauna, visit HawaiiFloraFauna.com.

spends lots of time foraging from nature.

Though some plants are far afield, many are just beyond the pavement. Shearer says friends call her a “roadsider,” since she’s always pulling over to gather.

ALWAYS LEARNING: Shearer wasn’t formally trained in the art, but has learned from books and “aunties and uncles” who have shared their mana‘o, or knowledge, of the craft. There are different methods of tying and weaving, knowing which plants are about to flower at certain times of the year, as well as cultural symbolism that accompanies certain plants. While tradition dictates some of her technique, Shearer also derives inspiration from Japanese wabi-sabi—a philosophy that welcomes imperfection and asymmetrical design. Shearer is humbled by her recent success. “There’s still a lot of trial and error,” she admits. “I feel like I’ve hardly even cracked the surface.”

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MAUIMAGAZINE.NET

SHANOALEIGH MARSON

GOING LOCAL: Not all of Shearer’s floral designs are made from native species, but she takes pride in sourcing her materials right here on Maui. Some mainstream flowers, like purple orchids, she brands as “unsustainable,” since they’re grown in various parts of the world and shipped all the way to the island. As Shearer’s exuberant creativity shows, even introduced species like kiawe, agapanthus, juniper, and pineapple can burst with fanciful color and texture as island-grown art. “A lei connects us with nature,” she says. “It keeps us grounded.”

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assie Pali is not your standard photographer. She launched her career eighteen years ago, creating family portraits and wedding photography that captured intimate and candid moments with skill and an artistic eye.

When a 2014 knee injury and subsequent surgeries impaired her ability to walk, Cassie shifted her focus to the underwater world. An avid surfer and big-wave photographer, she looked to the ocean for comfort and healing. She began to incorporate adventure weddings and “trash the dress” shoots in which newlyweds literally “took the plunge” under the waves.

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Loving the challenge, Cassie soon added mermaids, hula dancers, and flowing gowns to her stunning portfolio, capturing movement underwater with surreal and dreamy artistry.

She received the honor of having her image “Looking Glass” selected for Art Maui 2019 and exhibited in the Schaefer International Gallery. Her images have been featured in galleries around the island of Maui, and earned her a teaching position with the Professional Photographers of America.

To see Cassie Pali’s art and photography above and below the waterline online, go to www.cassiepali.com and www.creativeislandvisions.com

N OW O P E N | T H E S H O P S AT WA I L E A

S E A S O N

TALK STORY

Hawaiians used ‘ie‘ie as medicine, building material, canoe lashing and more. The plant also took shape as ki‘i (images), representing the gods. The ones below are among the pieces on display at Hale Hō‘ike‘ike at the Bailey House through December.

I N

Like many indigenous art forms, Hawaiian weaving and basketry almost disappeared under the weight of Western colonization. Sacred objects like the ki‘i were destroyed or carried off to museums. Few people today know how to weave ‘ie‘ie roots. Kumulā‘au and Haunani Sing are bent on changing that. Partners in life and in craft, the two artists are fostering a new generation of Hawaiian basket makers. The Sings teach the traditional way: one-on-one, in small cohorts called papa. Beginning basketry students work with rattan, a nonnative substitute for ‘ie‘ie. As their practice matures, they

STO RY BY S H A N N O N W I A N EC K I

eep in the Hawaiian rainforest, a woody vine climbs into the canopy.

It winds around tree trunks, sends aerial roots reaching out for something to grab, and unfurls a mop of long leaves crowned by a bright orange inflorescence. In days past, the ‘alalā, or Hawaiian crow, fed on its red berries. Today the bird and vine are both rare.

Hawaiians call the vine ‘ie‘ie. It looks a lot like hala, the pandanus tree found throughout Polynesia. Hala is the most important species for traditional Polynesian weavers, who use its pliant leaves to make everything from mats and hats to bedding and canoe sails. ‘Ie‘ie is less common, but also significant; fiber artists in Hawai‘i use its aerial roots to fashion sturdy baskets, fish traps, war helmets, and This versatile vine wove its way ki‘i—fearsome representainto the fabric of Hawaiian life. tions of Hawaiian gods.

SOCIAL CLIMBER 32

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learn how to harvest and care for the indigenous vine—ensuring the survival of the species and the art form.

You can admire their creations during a special basketry exhibit: Nā Akua Ākea Project runs now through December 2019 at Hale Hō‘ike‘ike at the Bailey House in Wailuku. The featured mahiole (feathered helmets) and hina‘i ‘ōpae (freshwater shrimp traps) are as beautiful as they are functional. To watch weavers in action, swing by Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel during the Kauluhiwaolele Maui Fiber Arts Conference, September 4 through 7. (Details at KBHMaui.com/ hawaii-culture/weaving.)

TOP: FOREST & KIM STARR; RIGHT: COURTESY OF MAUI HISTORICAL SOCIETY

D

TALK STORY M A M A B I G

REMEMBERING BIG MAMA S T O R Y B Y T E YA P E N N I M A N

C Darla White visits “Big Mama” in 2013, its vibrant hue connoting a happy, healthy colony. She says pastels and rich reddish-browns indicate live corals; brown or gray spots mean that algae has overgrown the live coral.

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oral came first. In the Kumulipo, the Hawaiian creation chant, the coral polyp is the first life to emerge from the slimy darkness, solidifying its role in the formation and functioning of marine ecosystems. The Olowalu reef on Maui’s West Side has its own ancient coral—or, perhaps, had.

Olowalu’s reef covers nearly 900 acres—making it the largest intact fringing reef in the state. It’s also home to the largest and oldest free-standing coral colony. “Big Mama” spans twenty-seven

feet and, based on core samples, was pushing 300 years. Large colonies generate new life and shelter many species of fishes and invertebrates. But the 2015 coral-bleaching event hit Big Mama hard, killing nearly 90 percent of its living tissue. The once-vibrant matriarch turned brown, smothered by turf algae.

“I know about climate grief,” says Darla White, longtime marine educator and the state’s co-manager of the Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary (jointly managed by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s Office of National Marine Sanctuaries, and the Hawai‘i Department of Land & Natural

PHOTO: DARLA WHITE, MSC.

Has Olowalu’s coral colony become the canary in the coal mine?

“Destination has been extremely responsive in helping us manage and maintain our residence, positioning us for successful rentals. We are grateful for continued assistance and a “customer service” approach in all of our interactions. A huge thanks to Destination for all you have done for us.” ~Property Owner – Jennifer, Colorado

WAILEA & MAKENA’S PREMIERE PROPERTY MANAGEMENT SERVICES FOR OVER 30 YEARS CATHY O’DONOHUE, Owner Services Manager, R(S)-75215 codonohue@destinationhotels.com AMANDA HESS, Owner Services Manager, R(S)-79270 ahess@destinationhotels.com

WAILEA BEACH VILLAS • MAKENA SURF • POLO BEACH CLUB • WAILEA ELUA VILLAGE WAILEA EKAHI VILLAGE • WAILEA EKOLU VILLAGE • WAILEA GRAND CHAMPIONS • WAILEA POINT DESTINATIONRESIDENCESHAWAII.COM | 877-220-1444 | 34 WAILEA GATEWAY PLACE, WAILEA, HI 96753

TALK STORY

What You Can Do:

M A M A

Practice Reef Etiquette.

Don’t stand or walk on coral.

B I G

(The weight crushes living organisms.)

Use reef-safe sunscreen.

(Read the label—oxybenzone harms coral larvae.)

Don’t feed the fish.

(Hand-fed fish become habituated to human feeding, are more vulnerable to predation, and don’t get their needed nutrients.)

Snapped just a few months later, in November 2015, this image illustrates how quickly algal “fuzz” settled on the live, but bleached, corals, further sealing their fate.

This photo of ”Big Mama” was taken during the September 2015 bleaching event, and shows the growing brown and grey algae patches overwhelming the live coral.

Resources). White describes her first experience at Olowalu, in 1993: “Standing in knee-deep water, I stuck my face in and had a pufferfish staring back at me. There were fish all around me.” Yellow Porites lobe coral lined a wide, oatmeal-colored, sand channel; this golden corridor led to deeper waters and even more diversity.

It looks like a ghost town now, but

White maintains her optimism. She highlights the need for good reef etiquette, and also community support for better management. “These animals [yes, coral polyps are animals] are resilient. It’s incredible what they can bounce back from, but [to do that] we have to remove the stressors.” She points to Olowalu’s designation as the state’s first “Hope Spot”—a global conservation campaign launched by renowned oceanographer and National Geographic explorer-inresidence Sylvia Earle. Shining a spotlight on treasures like Olowalu can bring more awareness and, perhaps, protection.

Governor David Ige’s 2016 Sustainable Hawai‘i Initiative recognizes the need for more aggressive action, with a goal of effective management of 30 percent our nearshore ocean waters by year 2030.

Big Mama might be gone, but she’s still talking to us. Will we listen?

Many organizations on Maui are eager to share their knowledge about our coral reefs.

Here are three:

Maui Nui Marine Resource Council (MauiReefs.org) Maui Ocean Center (MauiOceanCenter.com) West Maui Ridge to Reef Initiative (WestMauiR2R.com)

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PHOTO: DARLA WHITE, MSC.

Learn More & Get Involved

Kahana Oceanfront Estate

Ironwood 14 Beachfront at Kapalua

Puunoa Equestrian Estate

Kapalua Oceanfront Estate

Molokai Oceanview Estate

We Represent Over $170M Of Maui’s Finest Oceanfront, Resort, and Estate Properties.

“For us, our client relationship doesn’t end at the sale. It’s just the beginning.”

Hawaii Life is an Exclusive Affiliate of Christie’s International Real Estate.

Mary Anne Fitch, R(B) | sold@maui.net | soldmaui.com Nam L. Le Viet, R(S) | nam@mauisold.com Hawaii Life Real Estate Brokers 500 Bay Drive, Kapalua 808.250.1583

It’s official: Our readers are as obsessed with Maui as we are. Follow @MauiMag on Instagram, then tag us in your photos, and we’ll share some of our favorites.

I T !

T A G ,

W E ' R E

#MAUINŌKA‘OI

@AARONLYNTON #onebreathatatime, #linediving, #freedive, #bluewater, #theoffice, #ikinuihui

@AATRE Babymooning in Maui. @livspark looking radiant going into her third trimester. Only a few more months until we meet!

@BRANDONWULFPHOTO Mahalo to @bluehawaiianhelicopters. It was awesome . . . it allowed me to capture a different view like this one of Moloka‘i. #exploremaui, #reallyrightstuff, #lethawaiihappen

@JERODMARSON Sunrise in Hawai‘i is always worth waking up for. #havealohawilltravel, #haleakalanationalpark, #colors_of_day

@JAPANESESQUEEZE Coconut wireless! #coconutwireless > landlines, #molokai, #molokaimobettah, #luckywelivehawaii, #bikinibird, #palmtrees, #coconut, #alohaoutdoors

@ NOMNOM_BOSTON Sunday mood: room service breakfast and a beautiful view. #alwayskealani, #hawaii

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For your ocean views 22 ACRE KULA ESTATE Sold before listed Sold price $2.3M

Debra Merle

REALTOR-BROKER 808.283.0049

deb@debramerle.com

Cathy Paxton-Haines

REALTOR-BROKER

808.283.1952 cathyphaines@gmail.com

EACH OFFICE IS INDEPENDENTLY OWNED & OPERATED

F I N D S

The Big Chill

G R E A T

Sub-Zero’s under-counter fridge holds up to 46 bottles and protects wines from heat, humidity, vibration and sunlight. Separate zones keep reds and whites at proper temperatures.

23⅞” wide, 34” high, 24”deep.

Ask for model options and pricing.

Hamai Appliance, 332 E. Wakea St., Kahului, 877-6305, HamaiAppliance.com

A Throw You’ll Keep Pop-up Book

Health blogger Liz Moody’s Glow Pops: Super-Easy Recipes to Help You Look and Feel Your Best is packed with nutrient-filled frozen-pop recipes. There’s a flavor for every palate. Hardcover, $16.99 at HUE Interior Design and Home Boutique, 210 Alamaha St., Kahului, 873-6910, MauiHui.com

GREAT FINDS

Cheerful colors and a whimsical pattern make Siscovers’ coral-garden throw pillows a charming addition to any chair, sofa or bed. The removable cover has a zipper closure.

20”x20”, $69.95 at HomeWorld Furniture, 374 Hanakai St., Kahului, 877-5503, HomeWorld.com

COMPILED BY MARLUY ANDRADE

Some of our favorite things . . . imagine them in your home.

Shell Collector

Featuring an eye-catching, antique-style gold interior, this large faux clam bowl holds its own as an accent piece or conversation-worthy trinket dish. $210 at Pacific Home, 221 Lalo St., Kahului, 727-8300, Pacific-Home.com

Trail Blazers

Sculptures by day, fire features by night. these custom ginger torches are made from copper, brass, bronze and stainless steel with a patina finish. Torches are approximately 6 feet tall. Set of two, $4,800 at Padilla Designs, 2000 Maui Veterans Hwy., Kīhei, 879-0938, PadillaDesigns.com

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Surface Treatment

Sonoma Tilemaker’s handcrafted Stellar Mystic ceramic tiles add color, texture and a touch of intrigue to interior walls, showers, and counters. Available in several colors and finishes. $26.90 per square foot at Maui Marble & Granite, 874 Alua St., Wailuku, 242-8400, MauiMarbleAndGranite.net

ADVERTORIAL J. McLaughlin An American original since 1977, J. McLaughlin creates distinctive clothing and accessories for women, men, and children. Experience their personalized approach to customer service at their new location in The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Space #EW16 | IG: @JMcLaughlinny | JMcLaughlin.com

Blue Bottle Love These blue glass water bottles are deeply sandblasted with positive intentions, making them exceptional for honoring water and raising the collective consciousness in regards to water and all of life. Live green, drink blue! For retail store locations, visit BlueBottleLove.com.

808-876-0009 | Connect@LovBlu.com FB/IG: @BlueBottleLove

Maui

SHOP

Put yourself in an island state of mind and treat yourself from head to toe . . . with a little help from these first-rate Maui shops.

Designs By Shirley Hawaii Shirley Lecomte offers custom designs of personalized family heirlooms. Her signature “808” piece is available in 14K gold with diamonds, 14K gold, and sterling silver. Available at Sargent’s Fine Jewelry, 802 Front St., Lahaina 808-276-3811 | shirleylecomte@yahoo.com

The Face Place Skincare Clinic At The Face Place, we are changing people’s lives—one face at a time. We offer exclusive corrective and nurturing facial services customized for each individual to provide optimal results. Jeannie Pereira, owner.

Wailea Town Center, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., B-103, Wailea 808-875-1000 | Info@MauiFacePlace.com MauiFacePlace.com

Forever H and A Maui Owner Romela Agbayani designs and sews these Hawaiian dresses for 18-inch American Girl dolls, along with matching dresses for girls of all ages. 658 Front St., Lahaina; Saturdays at the Maui Swap Meet, Kahului | 808-661-1760 FB/IG: @ForeverHAndAMaui | ForeverHAndAMaui.com

For your moments of bliss 82° AND BLAZING BLUE

1437 Front Street, Lahaina 10:00 hours

TODAY IS THE PERFECT DAY TO START LIVING YOUR DREAM OCEANFRONT HOMES

LAUNIUPOKO HOMES

KAPALUA RESORT LAND

1437 Front Street • 3br/3ba • 1,984 sf • 0.078 acres

411 Wailau Place • 4br/3.5ba • 4,171 sf • 29.23 acres

600 Honokohau Steet • 2.01 acres

9 Bay Drive • 8br/8.5ba • 6,645 sf • 9.96 acres

KAPALUA RESORT HOMES

KAPALUA RESORT FRACTIONAL

LAHAINA CONDOS

708 Fairway Dr • 3br/3.5ba • 3,315 sf • 0.20 acres 228 Crestview Rd • 4br/4ba • 3,939 sf • 0.47 acres

Montage Res Kapalua Bay • 3br/3.5ba • 2,065 sf

KAPALUA RESORT CONDOS

2132 Aina Mahiai St • 4br/4ba • 3,400 sf • 4.58 acres 407 Wekiu Pl • 3br/4ba • 3,507 sf • 0.23 acres

Hoonanea at Lahaina 216 • 2br/2.5ba • 1,264 sf ˇ

LAHAINA LAND 1191 Front Street Unit 4 • 5,631 sf ˇ

NAPILI/KAHANA/HONOKOWAI CONDOS Paki Maui 209 • 1br/1ba • 460 sf West Maui Trades D301 • 2br/1ba • 658 sf • leasehold

Coconut Grove 9 • 3br/3ba • 2,312 sf Kapalua Golf Villas 18T1-2 • 2br/2ba • 1,470 sf Kapalua Golf Villas 21P3-4 • 2br/2ba • 1,344 sf Kapalua Ridge Villas 821-22 • 2br/3ba • 1,756 sf

KAANAPALI RESORT HOMES

KAANAPALI RESORT CONDOS Mahana 715 • 1br/2ba • 854 sf ˇ Masters 1707 • 2br/2ba • 1,269 sf Vintage at Kaanapali 21 • 3br/2.5ba • 1,799 sf ˇ In Escrowˇ

Courtney M Brown RS-56519, Vice President, ePRO CB@LuxuryRealEstateMaui.com LuxuryRealEstateMaui.com

Heidi E Dollinger RS-76325 Heidi@IslandSothebysRealty.com

808.359.4245

Rob Shelton RB-21133, Vice President, BIC Rob@IslandSothebysRealty.com MauiLuxuryProperties.com

808.281.4024

808.250.0210

If your property is listed with a real estate broker, please disregard. It is not our intention to solicit the offerings of other real estate brokers. We are happy to work with them and cooperate fully. Each Office is Independently Owned and Operated.

ISLANDSTYLE ADVERTORIAL

If home is where your heart lives, fill it with what you love. Can’t decide? We’ve got some ideas to fall for.

Homme By Nature Blending classic style with a modern rustic aesthetic, this well-curated men’s and home store carries USA-made men’s clothing and accessories, made-on-Maui ceramics, charcuterie boards, one-of-a-kind wood and steel furniture, and other unique finds. 3643 Baldwin Ave., Makawao 808-572-3456 Pueo Gallery Maui’s newest gallery, featuring contemporary art with an island vibe. Representing artists Lyle Krannichfeld (photography), Taryn Alessandro (mixed media), Evan Schauss (glass sculpture), and Erik Abel (canvas prints).

Open daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. | 96 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia PueoMaui.com | 808-446-3974

The Mind’s Eye Interiors Bring the islands indoors with our Kanani dining-room collection, featuring contemporary lines crafted in rattan in dark (fruitwood) tones. Also available in light (natural) rattan and a variety of upholstery colors.

1068 Limahana Pl., Lahaina MindsEyeInterior.com | 808-667-7748

HUE Interior Design + Decor Hand-painted blue fiber in an acrylic shadowbox, 30” wide, 40” high, $1,150.

Two locations: Wailea Village Center, 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Building E, Wailea 210 Alamaha St., Kahului MauiHue.com | 808-873-6910

Beach House Furnishings Whether you live Upcountry or at the shore, Beach House offers the Maui style you’ve been looking for—the perfect blend of contemporary and island décor. Aquarium sea foam side table, 18”x18”x25”, $169. 330 Ohukai Rd., Suite 110, Kīhei BeachHouseDesignMaui.com | 808-891-2010

For your ideal surroundings

21 KAULUA PLACE

OCEANFRONT ESTATE IN PAIA

INFINITE VIEWS

A SERENE SANCTUARY

THE KOELE LIFESTYLE

WAILUKU: Enjoy infinite views from Villas

PAIA: Live and love privacy with ocean

at Kehalani as you welcome each day with a colorful sunrise over Haleakala. Beauty and elegance surround you with breathtaking ocean and mountain views.

access. Superior build offering an authentic Maui lifestyle. Fondly named, “An island within an island.” Chic Paia Town with restaurants, shopping just moments away!

KAHULUI: A serene sanctuary located in the private, gated community of The Bluffs at Maui Lani. This stunning residence enjoys a quiet neighborhood with amazing views of Haleakala and the West Maui Mountains.

LANAI: This property enjoys endless views of the mountains and beautiful expansive lawns, including the starlit Koele evenings. A rare opportunity to purchase and experience the unique Koele lifestyle.

VILLAS AT KEHALANI UNITS 1803 & 101

21 KAULUA PLACE MLS® #: 382008

THE BLUFFS AT MAUI LANI

340 KAUNAOA DRIVE

2 BR / 2.5 BA & 3 BR / 2.5 BA

3 BR / 3.5 BA / 3026 SF / 0.4 AC

3 BR / 3 BA + Den / 2310 SF / 0.26 AC

3 BR / 2.5 BA / 2501 SF / 0.49 AC

$1,187,500

$1,875,000 SOLD

$699,000 SOLD & $876,000 SOLD $5,250,000

Chana Boone RS-72087

Mari Ippolito RS-60933

Becky Hanna

Michele Parker

Jay Margulies

Realtor (B)

Realtor (S)

Realtor (S)

RB-21160

RS-73273

RS-81386

(808) 298-1420 / (808) 264-3131

(808) 870-0964

(808) 276-9500

(808) 280-1080

Chana.Boone@IslandSothebysRealty.com Mari@IslandSothebysRealty.com

Becky@IslandSothebysRealty.com

Michele@IslandSothebysRealty.com MauiMichele.com

Jay@IslandSothebysRealty.com MarguliesAndAssociates.com

Island Sotheby's International Realty, 2463 S. Kihei Rd. Suite A-22, Kihei, HI, 96753. Each office is independently owned and operated.

For your next adventure

OLOWALU: This spectacular Oceanfront Property, steeped in history, is a jewel to behold! Owners are afforded unparalleled privacy and stunning views of Lanai and Kahoolawe, as well as a lifetime of incredible sunsets. This private, two acre beachfront site, builder ready, comes complete with a producing citrus orchard, maturing mango trees as well as coconut trees and attractive monkeypod trees. A private, dual water system provides ample water for both domestic and agricultural uses. Access to a nearby launching site for canoes, kayaks and paddle boards ensures the owners will have ample opportunities to enjoy this unique and special beachfront property. 2 acres offered for $4,850,000

Wendy R Peterson

Jamie Woodburn

Realtor (S) RS-61995 Wendy@IslandSothebysRealty.com

Realtor (S) RS-63712 Jamie@IslandSothebysRealty.com

808.870.4114

808.870.5671

Island Sotheby's International Realty, 3628 Baldwin Ave, Makawao, HI, 96768, Each office is independently owned and operated.

ISLAND LIVING

R E A L

E S T A T E

TRENDS

& THE REAL DEAL

A Q&A with Debra Merle of Island Sotheby’s International Realty

Story by SARAH RUPPENTHAL

D

ebra Merle knows real estate. She moved to Maui in 1973, became a realtor in 1979, and over the course of her career has received both the Aloha ‘Āina Realtors’ Choice Award and the Realtors Association of Maui’s coveted Realtor Broker of the Year Award.

And she’s made a name in the local community. In 1989, Debra and her husband, Jeff, began preparing and serving dinners once a month at Ka Hale A Ke Ola Homeless Resource Center in Wailuku. She brought dozens of her fellow realtors on board; thirty years later, the monthly meal service is still going strong.

We asked Debra to share a few expert tips for sellers and buyers.

How has technology changed the home-buying experience for your clients?

So much information is available online now. Buyers can have their realtor instantly notify them when a property matching their criteria becomes available. They can see photos, videos, and take a 3D tour before they ever step foot inside a home.

Any advice for someone considering purchasing a home on Maui?

Get prequalified to be confident you’re looking in the right price range. It’s a free service provided by lenders, and 48

MAUIMAGAZINE.NET

there’s nothing wrong with going to several different lenders to see which loan program works best for you. Also, if you’re coming from the mainland, take your time and explore the island.

Familiarize yourself with the different microclimates and the character of each area. South Maui is generally dryer and warmer, as is a good part of West Maui; both are popular with people who want to be near the beach and beach activities. The North Shore tends to attract kitesurfers, windsurfers, stand-up paddlers and big-wave surfers who want to live close to the action. East Maui, which begins in Ha‘ikū and continues out to Hāna, gets the most rain and seems to appeal to people who want to get back to nature. Upcountry Maui has a cooler climate and it’s easier to find a larger parcel of land there. It’s also important to be aware that commute times [to work or school] have very little to do with how many miles away your destination is. A trip from Kahului Airport to Kā‘anapali is only twenty-nine miles, but during peak traffic hours it can take well over an hour.

Why is a good idea to work with a local lender?

They know the lay of the land. I was working with a buyer from the mainland on a Kā‘anapali property. A week or two from closing, his Arizona-based lender

told him he couldn’t get the loan because the house didn’t have central heat!

I know prices are fluid, but what is the average cost of a home on Maui?

In the first half of 2019, the median sales price for a residential home on Maui was $740,000, $522,000 for a condo, and $495,000 for vacant land.

How do Maui’s home prices compare to other desirable areas?

We have such a wide range. As of today [June 30, 2019], there are 448 homes for sale in Maui County ranging from $250,000 to $49 million. You might find that kind of range in San Diego, but I think entry-level homes in San Francisco start at a much higher price point.

What would you tell a buyer who is wary of Maui’s higher cost of living?

Actually, many things cost less here than on the mainland. For instance, our property taxes are a lot less than California’s. Unless you live at a high altitude and choose to install central heating, you’ll never have to pay a winter heating bill. And there’s a lot to do on Maui that is free, like spending the day at the beach, swimming, hiking, and biking.

We also have more food-shopping options now—and there are weekly farmers’ markets all over the island. And if you want to try growing your own food, we have the weather for it year-round.

Do you have a favorite memory of working with a client?

My business partner and I were trying to find the perfect home for a client who wanted to downsize. We thought of a home we had sold several years ago, and remembered the buyers of that house were in hotel management. We wondered if it was about time for them to be transferred again, so I knocked on their door one day and asked if they would consider selling their house and they said: “Yes, we just got transferred.” We closed a few weeks later.

Wow. Never a dull moment, huh?

[Laughs] That’s why I enjoy it so much.

For those with a vision

917 HOG BACK ROAD

WAILEA EKAHI VILLAGE

KAANAPALI OCEAN VIEW ESTATE

NEW HOME ON ONE ACRE

WAILEA: Wailea Ekahi was designed with

KAANAPALI: Captivating Kaanapali Estate,

KIHEI: Live just steps from the beach while

HAIKU: Architectural masterpiece sited on

incredible open spaces, 4 swimming pools, tennis courts, pool pavilion and access to Keawakapu Beach. Enjoy the beach walk to the Wailea beachfront resorts & restaurants.

spectacular ocean and island vistas, surrounded by pastoral golf course views.

Disappearing Fleetwood doors create your seamless indoor-outdoor Maui lifestyle.

growing the most amazing tropical fruits & veggies. Enjoy a brand new, never lived-in 3BR/2.5BA exceptionally well built home on a spacious private acre of land.

gorgeous 4 acres of land. Private setting that includes guest cottage and meditation studio. Elevate your senses in luxury amidst the seclusion of tropical space.

WAILEA EKAHI 36B MLS® #: 381861

50 KAHUA KAI PLACE MLS® #: 382671

47 OHUKAI ROAD

917 HOG BACK ROAD

1 BR / 2 BA / 952 SF / 10.12 AC

3 BR / 4 BA / 3828 SF / 0.44 AC

3 BR / 2.5 BA / 1503 SF / 1 AC

3264 SF / 4.28 AC

$699,000 SOLD

$3,495,000

$1,495,000

$2,695,000

ARCHITECTURAL MASTERPIECE

Gerrianne Sakamoto

Candy Mulcoy

Leah Damon

Sam Utley

Realtor (S)

Realtor (S)

Realtor (B)

Realtor (S)

RS-41194

RS-60995

RB-18265

RS-75239

(808) 870-0411

(808) 283-3055

(808) 276-5324

(808) 205-5088

ggs@MoreOnMaui.com Maui-Hawaii-Homes.com

Candy@IslandSothebysRealty.com MauiKaanapaliConnection.com

Leah@LeahDamon.com LeahDamon.com

Sam@IslandSothebysRealty.com Sam.IslandSothebysRealty.com

Island Sotheby's International Realty, 3628 Baldwin Ave, Makawao, HI, 96768. Each office is independently owned and operated.

A GARDEN-VARIETY MAKEOVER BEFORE AND AFTER AT MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI’S WAILUKU HEADQUARTERS Story by SARAH RUPPENTHAL

H

ow do you transform a lackluster yard into the envy of the neighborhood? Planning. Patience. And plenty of elbow grease.

Last fall, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine recruited local horticulturist Susi Mastroianni to give its long-overgrown yard a new lease on life. Susi has been working her landscaping magic for nearly two decades and has seen her share of TLC-starved outdoor spaces. So she was unfazed by the then-unusable plot buried under a tangle of scraggly bushes and areca palms. “It was a bit of a jungle,” she laughs.

The first order of business was to delineate the yard; over time, part of it had merged with the driveway. After marking the boundaries, Susi cleared and hauled out seven truckloads of green waste, sparing several shade-giving palms

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along the fence line. Once she had a blank slate, she sat down to brainstorm a design. The goal was to create a relaxing hangout spot for al fresco lunches, staff meetings, and office celebrations—and keep it as low-maintenance as possible.

“There’s no gardener on site, so it needed to be easy to care for,” she explains.

With that in mind, in lieu of grass, Susi and her team built a no-greenthumb-required brick-paver patio and an adjacent rock garden composed of white-marble chips and pea gravel. Then they filled the yard with hardy plants like mother-in-law’s tongue, burro’s tail, aloe, ti, and peace lilies. Showy impatiens and “Maui Red” ixora shrubs provide pops of color; the vibrant leaves of false eranthemum and water-wise rhoeo add an extra dose of oomph.

Designed

by Triple Triple SS Construction Construction Designed & Installed by

Stone Tile | Porcelain Tile | Granite & Stone Slabs | Quartz Slabs | Glass Tile Custom Fabrication & Installation In Stock & Special Order Cabinetry 25 Kahului Beach Road, Kahului 808.871.7595 (tel) | 808.871.7059 (fax) www.CeramicTilePlus.com

Contractor’s Contractor’s License License #C32353 #C32353

To keep things thriving, Susi installed a drip system with a timer connected to an outside spigot. A varnished picnic table (a Facebook Marketplace find), cozy red Adirondack chair, and playful flamingo garden stake were the finishing touches.

The entranceway also received a facelift. Susi power-washed the steppingstones and spruced up the path, lining it with eye-catching bromeliads and large ceramic pots overflowing with cheerful tillandsia (air plants), coleus, anthurium, gardenias, and orchids.

Since its completion in March, MNKO’s glammed-up exterior has caused visitors to do a double take, and staff to sigh contentedly. And everyone agrees it’s a magazine-worthy transformation.

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RESOURCE GUIDE Exclusively Yours

(patio pavers) 25 S. Kahului Beach Rd., Kahului 808-871-7595 • Info@EYDesignMaui.com

Hawaii Materials Recycling

(sand base for patio) E. Welakahao Rd., Kīhei • 808-856-6231 HawaiiMaterialsRecycling.com

Indolotus Imports

(ceramic pots) 145 Halekuai St., Kīhei 808-879-9997 • IndolotusImports.com

L C Hauling LLC

(gravel for driveway) 188 Aha‘aina Way, Kīhei • 808-870-7279

Lowe’s Home Improvement

(marble and pea gravel, Adirondack chair) 214 Ho‘okele St., Kahului 808-872-1920 • Lowes.com

South Maui Gardens

(plants)* 35 Auhana Rd., Kīhei 808-419-6562 • SouthMauiGardens.com

Susi Mastroianni/Garden Creations (landscape design) PO Box 880660, Pukalani • 808-268-9825 GardenCreationsMaui@mac.com *Additional plants provided by wholesaler Pukalani Plant Company.

ADVERTORIAL

Mino McLean R(B) - HI License RB-21623 A consistent top producer specializing in Upcountry, North Shore, and South Maui real estate, Mino loves her job and brings a wealth of knowledge, experience, energy, and full service to her clients.

Island Sotheby’s International Realty 808-263-9613 | Mino@MauiMino.com

Leah Damon R(B) - HI License RB-18265 Leah is an executive-level international realtor, and an organic farmer and beekeeper. She’s excited to work with buyers and sellers in every price range and strives to make every real estate transaction a joyful experience.

Island Sotheby’s International Realty 808-276-5324 | Leah@LeahDamon.com IG: @MauiLeah | LeahDamon.com

Rob Shelton, R(B) - HI License RB-21133 Rob Shelton is an award-winning realtor with an extensive background in resort operations at Kapalua Resort. He specializes in West Maui real estate and is active in numerous community endeavors.

Island Sotheby’s International Realty 808-281-4024 | MauiLuxuryProperties.com Rob@IslandSothebysRealty.com

MAUI'S Gerrianne G. Sakamoto R(S) - HI License RS-41194 Specializing in oceanfront and Upcountry properties since 1987, Gerrianne brings her intimate knowledge of Maui, and experience in high-tech business negotiation to work for her clients, helping them achieve their immediate and long-range real estate goals.

Island Sotheby’s International Realty 808-870-0411 | GGS@IslandSothebysRealty.com MoreOnMaui.com

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Candy Mulcoy R(S) - HI License RS-60995 As the top producer for June 2019, Candy specializes in luxury homes and condominiums in Kapalua and Kā‘anapali.

She also identifies acreage and new land developments suitable for equestrian use throughout the islands.

Island Sotheby’s International Realty 808-283-3055 | Candy@IslandSothebysRealty.com

TOP AGENTS

Heidi E. Dollinger R(S) - HI License RS-76325 Heidi brings an extensive design background to her expertise in Maui real estate. She specializes in luxury home and vacation-rental property sales in West Maui, is president of the Rotary Club of Lahaina Sunset, and an active volunteer.

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Wendy Peterson R(S) - HI License RS-61995 Wendy Rice Peterson is an award-winning realtor focusing on residential and vacantland properties. With Maui roots that go back six generations, she makes connections based on a lifetime of local knowledge, community involvement, and sincere aloha.

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Deb Merle R(B) - HI License RB-15387 For 30-plus years, Deb Merle has helped real estate buyers and sellers, sharing her insider’s knowledge of the Maui market and bringing deep dedication to clients.

No wonder she’s garnered Realtor of the Year and other awards!

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Lynette Pendergast R(B) - RB-21145 Lynette moved from Montana to Maui in 2008, a year later joined Equity One, and became broker-in-charge in 2016. She works with Makawao and Pā‘ia agents, and represents clients in Ha‘ikū, Upcountry, Central and South Maui.

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Dan Hunt R(S) - HI License 77614 From farming to hiking to surfing, Dan has been living the Maui lifestyle for most of his life. His gratitude inspires him to give back to local organizations that support clean oceans, reforestation, and sustainable agriculture.

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Jamie Woodburn R(S) - HI License RS-63712 A Maui resident for more than 45 years, Jamie is an expert in Upcountry and heritage properties, as well as “off the beaten path” gems. A farmer, artist, and outdoorsman, he knows how to get it done on Maui.

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Jay Margulies R(S) - HI License RS-81386 Representing buyers and sellers of luxury properties on Maui, Lāna‘i, Kaua‘i and the Big Island; and Lake Tahoe and Reno since 1983. Nationally ranked as the No. 5 Sotheby’s International Realty Associate in 2018.

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MAUI'S TOP AGENTS AN EXCLUSIVE LOOK AT THE BEST PERFORMING REAL ESTATE AGENTS

Chana Boone R(S) - HI License RS-72087 Mari Ippolito R(S) - HI License RS-60933 Mari and Chana bring 27 years’ combined experience to their work as realtors in Hawaii and California. Their Aloha Spirit will help guide you to your perfect Maui home.

Island Sotheby’s International Realty Chana Boone: 808-298-1420 | Maui.Chana@gmail.com Mari Ippolito: 808-264-3131 | MauiMari@gmail.com

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Michele Parker, R(S) - HI License RS-73273 Raised in Honolulu, Michele has made Maui her home for the past 27 years. Her career spans hospitality, commercial property management, and real estate; her passion is helping clients realize their dream of living on Maui!

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Becky Hanna R(B) - HI License RB-21160 Raised in the industry, Becky offers a lifetime of real estate experience. Becky’s continual referrals and repeat clientele are authentic testaments to her hard work and devotion to her clients.

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C O N T R I B U T O R S To update the entrance to their Spreckelsville home, Roger Wark replaced plantationstyle double doors with light-inviting glass and wood, bumped the entryway out to 12-by-12 feet, and build the new porch.

finishing TOUCHES A DREAM HOUSE EVOLVES ON MAUI’S NORTH SHORE. STORY

BY SARAH RUPPENTHAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY R YA N SIPHERS

HEN ROGER WARK “FINISHED” BUILDING HIS FAMILY’S HOME IN

Spreckelsville nineteen years ago, he knew it was really just the beginning. “There was a lot more I wanted to do,” he admits.

His ongoing “honey-do” list would span nearly two decades.

Today, the semiretired contractor says the 3,200-square-foot, four-bedroom, five-bath residence is complete. His wife, Elsa, is rightfully skeptical. “I have a feeling he’s not quite done,” she says with a wink. “His brain just never stops.”

“I’m sure I could find a few more things to do,” Roger laughs.

In 1972, with his sights set on catching waves, the Southern California native packed his bags and bought a one-way ticket to O‘ahu. He took up residence in a cream-colored Volkswagen bus and framed houses between morning and afternoon surf sessions. Realizing he had a knack for building things, he got his contractor’s license and started his own company, Wark Pacific Inc., in 1980.

Roger eventually met and married Elsa, a freelance makeup artist. In 1988, the couple moved to Maui, where Roger added more commercial and residential construction projects to his repertoire. Among them are the Yokouchi Pavilion and Courtyard at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center, Morimoto Maui restaurant at the Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort, and several custom homes (including a handful in the Warks’ neighborhood; one is directly across the street).

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Roger renovated the master bathroom in 2018, adding 110 square feet to the original floor plan, and fulfilling the wish that topped Elsa’s “dream bathroom” list: a freestanding soaking tub in front of a picture window.

He also built the custom vanity (his woodworking shop is on the property); its drawers are sized to fit all of freelance makeup artist Elsa’s beauty supplies.

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In 1998, Roger and Elsa learned of several two-acre parcels for sale in the North Shore community of Spreckelsville.

The lots—which occupied former pineapple land—were large patches of reddish-orange dirt punctuated by weeds and clumps of black plastic. Even so, Elsa and Roger saw the potential. The couple had been renting a place in Spreckelsville, and were smitten with its central location and proximity to the ocean. They purchased one of the lots and started to plan their dream home.

But Roger was suddenly juggling so many construction jobs that he had no time for his own. The project languished for nearly two years.

It took three orphaned palm trees to get the ball rolling.

Roger was tasked with removing the fifty-foot-tall palms from a jobsite in Kahului. They were too magnificent to chop up and toss out . . . so he uprooted

them. “I asked around, but no one wanted them,” he recalls. So he and his crew loaded the trees onto flatbed trailers and caravanned to the Spreckelsville lot, where he replanted them. Roger says he felt a surge of inspiration once the trees were in; he had a clearer picture of how to develop the property.

Soon after, the Warks broke ground on their new home, and Roger squeezed in work on afternoons and weekends.

The couple had already settled on a design: Envisioning a cluster of Balinese huts connected by covered breezeways, they decided on a sequence of rooms

The bedroom daughter Christina lobbied for is now a guest suite with its own bathroom and entrance, but the room retains her touches. She made the wooden tray on top of the bench (a T.J. Maxx score) and bought the fur pillow while traveling in South Africa. The end tables are vintage; Christina and her sisters refurbished them.

Mom Elsa found the lamp at Target, and ordered the macramĂŠ wall hanging and rug through Amazon.

The floors are Brazilian cherry.

The living room’s sliding glass doors open to the rear lānai—the family’s enclosed, go-to place for poolside entertaining and al fresco dinners.

Its privacy makes the pool area an ideal workout spot; Roger likes to tie his paddleboard to a nearby palm, place it in the pool and do stationary standup paddling for exercise (besides the laps he swims before and after work each day).

separated by short hallways.

Nine months later, Roger, Elsa, and their three young daughters, Christina, Lisa and Kimberly, moved into the notquite-finished house. Roger made sure his family could live there comfortably as he and his crew wrapped things up; a few rooms still needed flooring, cabinetry, interior doors, tile and trim work.

And a few weeks later, it was done.

Well, sort of.

The first of many changes came in 2003, when Roger designed and built a backyard pool, along with a detached woodworking shop. That same year, Christina petitioned for a fourth bedroom so she wouldn’t have to continue to bunk with her younger sister. Roger says it didn’t take a lot of arm-twisting; he was eager to tackle another project.

In 2015, the Warks extended the en68

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tryway to create a roomy foyer, and replaced a rear, lānai-facing picture window and single French door with sixteen-footwide maple-wood sliders with accompanying screen doors (to keep marauding mosquitoes at bay on muggy evenings).

Then, in 2018, Roger completed what Elsa calls the piéce de résistance: a master bathroom expansion that had been put on hold for more than a decade. Roger installed a freestanding soaking tub and built a vanity with drawers custom-sized (down to the millimeter) for Elsa’s extensive collection of cosmetics, brushes and other tools of her trade.

There have been other, less-dramatic changes, too, from swapping out doors and windows, to repainting the exterior redwood siding a deep grey. The Warks, now empty nesters, say their daughters often play a game of “spot the difference”

when they visit their parents’ home. “It’s constantly changing,” Roger says.

The same goes for the interior, which is Elsa’s handiwork. She has a makeup artist’s mastery of color theory and a keen eye for detail—a skill set that lends itself to interior design. So, when she and Roger moved in nineteen years ago with only a handful of furnishings (they’d sold the bulk of it beforehand to start off with a blank canvas), Elsa put her talent on display. Guided by the home’s elegantyet-comfortable island aesthetic, she has slowly and methodically curated an eclectic mix of tropical décor.

“My mother was a DIY person before DIY was a thing,” she says. “She taught me to work with what you have and look for good finds in places you wouldn’t normally look.” Like her husband, Elsa can’t say for sure if she’d pass up an opportunity to make more changes. “Yes, we both love a project,” she laughs.

Living in a home-in-progress hasn’t fazed Elsa. “I don’t think I have ever complained,” she says. “Everything we’ve done has been worth the wait.”

Opposite: The foyer holds further evidence of Elsa’s knack for mixing eclectic pieces to create a charming décor.

She loves bargainhunting, and found the hutch console, tray and decanter at Target; the blueand-white ceramic pot at Ross.

This page: The saltwater swimming pool is fifty feet long, and the first pool Roger ever designed and built. That was in 2003, when the rock-and-waterfall feature at the pool’s deep end was much smaller. His daughters convinced him to enlarge it for a better diving platform.

4

PA RT O F A 5- PA RT S E R I ES O N H AWA I I A N T EC H N O LO GY & SC I E N C E

SOCIAL

ccording to the Hawaiian scholar and historian Samuel Kamakau (1815–1876), three things were necessary for the well-being of the Hawaiian people. One was the canoe, the wa‘a, for travel, food, and warfare. A second was the land, the ‘āina, for the cultivation of kalo (taro). The third was the hale, the sheltering structure that not only protected the people from the elements, but also helped to define their social life.

Most current references to “Hawaiian architecture” are really about post-Contact Western structures imported to Hawai‘i and modified to better fit the climate. Internal walls were removed, ceilings lifted, foundations raised, and windows added or widened, all to channel and maximize the daily breezes. Builders extended rooflines to divert the rain away from open windows, and the widened porches (lānai) allowed for a gradual transition from inside to outside. This natural tendency in a mild climate to bring indoor life out, and outdoor light and air in, is how Hawaiian communities lived for hundreds of generations before Westerners arrived in the 1800s with more “civilized” ideas about housing. It is ironic, or maybe poetic, that the old lifestyle designs—an organic response to the reality that much of Hawaiian daily life is more pleasant when conducted outdoors—are new again.

Imagine a star-saturated night a thousand years ago on Maui.

In the hale noa (sleeping house), the entire extended family 70

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STRUCTURE INDIGENOUS ARCHITECTURE WAS SHAPED BY— AND HELPED TO SHAPE—LIFE IN EARLY HAWAI‘I. DESCENDANTS OF THE ISLANDS’ FIRST PEOPLE ARE BUILDING ON THAT FOUNDATION. Story by JUDY EDWARDS

ARCHITECTURAL DRAWINGS AND BOTTOM LEFT PHOTO COURTESY OF MASON ARCHITECTS; FRANCIS SINENCI PHOTOS USED WITH HIS PERMISSION. ALL OTHER PHOTOS IN THIS STORY COURTESY OF NATIONAL TROPICAL BOTANICAL GARDENS.

dreamed on soft, scented kapa mats spread over a base flooring of smooth, water-rounded ‘ili‘ili stones. A small fire burned throughout the night, with someone replenishing it now and again. Cool air flowed in the low, open door, or through “windows” made by pushing the fragrant, bundled, pili-grass thatching aside. If the rains came, the tight thatching shed water easily, and the hale noa’s stone platform ensured a dry floor.

At sunrise, family members woke to begin the day’s duties.

The kapu system of societal laws divided many tasks by gender, and in the orderly life of pre-Contact Hawai‘i, a duty often required its own hale. The hale noa was the only shelter where men and women mixed freely. Males alone entered the hale mua, the men’s meetinghouse. Men also tended the hale kuke, the cooking house, from which they carried food to the hale ‘āina, where the women and young children ate. Making kapa (barkcloth) was women’s work; the structure in which they beat and dried the bark was the hale ku‘a. And during their menses, women stayed in a separate structure, called the hale pe‘a. Smaller hale for storing tools, instruments, food, and other valuables were constructed as needed. The whole homey cluster of structures comprised the kauhale (homestead). Footpaths wound among the hale, which were situated to make maximum use of airflow, light, rainfall, and proximity to fresh and salt water.

Builders chose the woods for the various hale from the immediate area, and sorted them for their different properties: strength for support poles, flexibility for the roof poles so that the structure would breathe, and bend in extreme weather without pulling apart. Sweet-smelling, rain-repelling pili grass

was preferred for thatching, but palm fronds would serve, too.

All those who could help build, did, and welcomed new hale with prayers and ceremony, the most important part of which was the cutting of the tuft of grass at the roof peak, symbolizing the cutting of the piko, or umbilical cord.

If the kauhale was part of a village, there might also be a terraced stone heiau (temple) dedicated to a powerful god, and near it, the hale of the ali‘i (the ruling chief, or chiefly class), on its imposing stone platform. Specially trained po‘e kuhikuhi pu‘uone (master builders and architects) created these formidable structures, working with, and designing in, wood and stone. Big projects—like the shared irrigation systems for kalo fields, and rock-walled fishponds encircling productive estuaries—involved the whole community.

The large hale wa‘a on or near the beach housed the priceless fishing canoes. Once the canoes were out on the ocean for the day, people could use the airy building for classes in hula or any other activity that called for a sizeable shady space.

Fishermen also kept the hale lawai‘a, the fishing house, for crafting or repairing their fishing tools and nets. The Hawaiian Dictionary lists some thirty-two kinds or classes of houses prior to European contact.

“One of the least-known uses for hale was to hide from the ali‘i,” says renowned hale builder Francis “Palani” Sinenci.

“For example, during the Makahiki [the winter festival time], when the ali‘i toured the island gathering taxes and tribute, no dogs, slaves, or other people could be seen or heard, so the hale was where you sheltered. And if special hale were built for the [essentially holy] ali‘i at that time, the kapu dictated that they be burned afterwards. Under some of the old kapu, you could be put to death for building an important hale wrong or badly.”

With Western contact in the seventeen- and eighteen-hundreds came Western ideas about building, as well as introduced plants, many of which overran or out-competed native species, with help from the nonstop grazing of introduced cattle and goats, and the voracious nibbling of European rats—all of which were happy to chew on hale, too. In the span of two hundred years, the knowledge of hale building faded along with the native trees and grasses.

Sinenci, perhaps more than anyone else living, is steeped in the history of Hawaiian hale. The Hāna native brought “the grass shack” back to relevance as a workable, buildable, respected structure. Sinenci identifies as a modern kumu kuhikuhi pu‘uone, a master and teacher of indigenous Hawaiian architecture, which also includes the mastery of stonework.

He served as consulting kupuna (expert) on the restoration of the two important heiau at Pu‘ukoholā Heiau National Historic Site on Hawai‘i Island after earthquakes damaged them

INDIGENOUS HAWAIIAN ARCHITECTURE IS MORE SOPHISTICATED THAN IT LOOKS,

and has been making a comeback across the Islands—from the sprawling hale on the previous spread, located within the National Tropical Botanical Gardens in Hāna, to the humbler structure at left, built at the NTBG’s Limahuli Garden and Preserve on Kaua‘i.

The various hale on these pages were constructed using traditional techniques and mostly traditional materials. Nylon rope, being stronger, has replaced natural fiber as lashing, but master hale builder and teacher Francis Sinenci employs it just as his ancestors did for centuries.

in the mid-2000s. He was one of five men who restored the great Pi‘ilani heiau in Hāna—the largest heiau in the Islands.

And, on the grounds of his nonprofit, Holani Hana, he built the biggest hale in the world. Sinenci says with a grin that it can fit “twenty-eight Ford Rangers or thirty-two Mazda Miatas.”

It serves as the host shelter for those who come to learn about Hawaiian architecture and the cultivation and restoration of Native Hawaiian species. Sinenci believes he has, in fact, built more hale (over 200) than any other Hawaiian alive. “I used to log them all, but then I would have a book this thick,” he laughs.

Sinenci didn’t set out to become a builder of hale, although there was some foreshadowing. In 1952, when he was in the sixth grade at Hāna Elementary School, his teacher gave him an assignment: “Go into the library, find something Hawaiian, and write about it.” There was no Hawaiian curriculum in those days, Francis says. “I found a book from the Bishop Museum on Hawaiian life, found the part on hale, and got interested because of the way the wood was carved. I gave my report, and

forgot about it.”

He graduated from Hāna High in 1961, served in the Navy for “four years and three months,” hopped over to the Air Force, and ended up stationed in Germany—where, in 1989, he joined with West and East Germans in taking a sledgehammer to the infamous, loathed Berlin Wall. He retired in 1991. Which is when things get interesting.

In 1992, Sinenci was coaching Leilehua High School crosscountry track and teaching kalo cultivation during the day; and taking classes in Hawaiian arts and sciences at night. A colleague asked him to build a traditional Hawaiian hale. “I never knew the original was built from grass,” he says. “I was fifty-two already. I thought, I don’t know how to build a hale. We grew up calling that thing a grass shack.”

He approached Dr. Rudy Mitchell, at that time an archeoloMAUI NŌ KA ‘OI » SEP-OCT 2019

73

gist at Waimea Falls Park, for guidance. Mitchell started drawing the poles of a hale, sketching out the male and female wooden joints, and, “it all came flooding back from that report in sixth grade,” says Sinenci. “Then I really began to study at the Bishop Museum.” For his first small hale, Sinenci used only natural fibers for lashing. (He now uses nylon rope, which is stronger.)

“When we use the term ‘Hawaiian hale architecture,’ what we mean is that everything is tightly lashed and the wood is shaped so that it can be notched together,” he says, “Never a nail.”

That first small structure led to one after the other in a cascade of learning and teaching. Today Sinenci has forty dedicated hale haumana (students) in his own hālau (school), Hālau Hale Kuhi Kuhi, with eight alaka‘i (leaders) under him, each teaching four students of their own. He requires his haumana days, you use what you have.” to build six hale before he will In pre-Contact Hawai‘i, the certify them; he is the only perfamily and community built the son in the world who can certify hale, and nature provided the them, and to date he has certified materials. Now, you have to hire a ten. The structural tattoos on his crew: Sinenci’s crew. The price to hands signify his unique status build a hale “can range from free and authority. Students range to $150K, and we work with nonfrom their teens to their sevenprofits to drop the price,” Sinenci ties and come from absolutely says. “My hale last about ten years every background: a woman capuntil the thatching needs help, altain from the Israeli army, a taro though overthatching at six years grower from Kaua‘i, professors, will help prolong it.” But if you are architects and schoolteachers. interested, you will have to move Sinenci himself is in his midfast. Sinenci is in high demand seventies, and still nimble on the as a builder as well as a teacher. scaffolding of hale in mid-con“Everybody that builds with me struction. He also travels like a learns a valuable skill, from the madman, overseeing projects all past into the future,” he says. over the state. “Sometimes,” he The resurgence of the Islands’ says, “before I wake up, I wiggle indigenous culture is proof of Haaround in bed a little and try to waiians’ desire to see their heriguess which place I’m in. I rack up tage tangible on the land, from the a lot of HawaiianMiles.” He even built a hale in China: Hawaiian tattoos tell reopening of historic kalo fields, to the rebuilding of a personal history.

“You can find it in the book Treehouses of the World.” ancient fishponds, and the repair of mighty heiau.

Sinenci’s “Ph.D.” is The changed ecological face of Hawai‘i means that They want to see, and use, the light, strong, sustainon his hand.

Opposite: Built in the original, commonly used trees and grasses are hard Limahuli able hale. They want to reconnect with that trianguGarden on to find, or altogether gone. He now uses invasive woods Kaua‘i, this hale looks lar trifecta echoed in the apex of the hale: the wa‘a, every inch the in his constructions whenever possible, and his matethe kalo, and the hale. The changing climate and welcome home. rials list has a handy acronym for students: IKESOMI, its knock-on effects are making many question how which stands for “Ironwood, Keawe, Eucalyptus, Strawberry humans live on the land, and how to do that better . . . which guava, ‘Ōhia‘ai, Mangrove, Inkberry.” “For every hale I built in more often than not seems to mean looking to the past for the the beginning, I had to go out and harvest the wood myself. Ev- answers for the future. erybody at first thought I was crazy,” he says. Pili grass is rare “The message of this emphasis on hale building,” points out now, but palms, both native and introduced, are easily found. Sinenci, “is that we really need to preserve our culture and go “Loulu, the Hawaiian word for palm, is now the most common back to Mother Nature, and we need to know how to build a caand most available thatching,” he says, “so, just like in the old noe, plant our food, and make shelter.” The knowledge of the sustainable, renewable hale may well be something that the rest of the world can learn quickly, and utilize rapidly. It would not be the first Hawaiian idea to go global. Or, as Sinenci puts it: “Hula, canoes, poi—all these go around the world, so why not hale?”

Web Exclusive: Watch a Hawaiian hale’s construction at Maui Magazine.net/Hawaiian-hale.

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JASON MOORE

THE PULL OF

HISTORY

FOR IOKEPA NAEOLE, THE OCEAN HOLDS ENDLESS LESSONS IN HAWAIIAN CULTURE AND TRADITION. TAKE A SEAT.

T

IOKEPA NAEOLE,

cultural resource specialist at Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, leads paddlers of varying degrees of experience in a recent Wa‘a Paddle Tour off Kā‘anapali’s coast.

He sits in seat six, at the rear of the wa‘a (canoe). It’s typically the spot reserved for the most seasoned paddler, who is responsible for the canoe’s direction and safety.

STORY BY LEHIA APANA

his is my office . . . my church . . . my happy place,” says Iokepa Naeole, his easy gaze tracing the cobalt waters.

The dawn surf laps against the beach, patiently luring all eyes to the ocean’s liquid beauty. Just ahead is neighboring Lāna‘i, its mountaintop crowned with cotton-ball clouds. To our right, Pu‘u Keka‘a’s volcanic promontory rises eighty feet above the water.

As cultural resource specialist for Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, Iokepa is here to share his heritage the best way he knows—through the wa‘a, or canoe. I’ve gathered with several Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi colleagues at the hotel’s beachfront Hale Huaka‘i activity center to explore the ocean, Hawaiian style. We form a halfcircle around the blue and yellow outrigger canoe, then trade glances in silence.

Today this is also Iokepa’s classroom— and are we his eager students.

The ocean has been his constant companion. The lifelong outrigger canoe paddler and quintessential waterman felt an instant connection to the sport when he picked up his first paddle at age twelve.

“As Hawaiians, we all have our own way of expressing our culture. For me, it’s always been about the wa‘a,” he says.

He follows in the paddle strokes of Polynesians who crisscrossed the Pacific in double-hulled canoes more than a thousand years ago. As settlers, these

wayfarers used compact wa‘a for short trips, battles, and sport. The boat we’ll be launching today is larger than those early wooden versions, seats six, and is made from fiberglass.

Iokepa says those early voyagers “had to learn how to deal with the ocean. They had to look at it not as the obstacle between Maui and Lāna‘i, but the pathway,” he explains. “So this is a cultural reconnection. It’s practicing the skills that our kūpuna [ancestors] required to survive.”

This ancient skill is very much alive today, and most people experience outrigger canoe paddling as part of an organized club. Teams gather to train, each athlete learning to pull her weight and match the stroke of the person in front of her. During regatta season, canoe clubs from across the archipelago—and the world—congregate to compete in fierce sprints and long-distance races.

Iokepa spent more than two decades coaching for Hawaiian Canoe Club, so he knows what it takes to transform beginner paddlers into champions. I know, too—I was once a wide-eyed novice, clutching her paddle on the shores of the club’s headquarters at Kahului Harbor. I grew up around canoes, and competed in races in my youth, so standing next to this vessel sparks memories of salty, sweat-drenched practices. Today’s crew, though, includes several who have never touched a paddle before.

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At first look, there doesn’t seem to be much to it—hop into the canoe, dunk the paddle blade, pull it towards you, repeat. In reality, outrigger paddling requires serious technical skills, strength and stamina.

Before we exercise our bodies, Iokepa challenges us to stretch our minds with a canoe anatomy lesson. We repeat in unison as he points to the ‘iako (boom) and ama (float), which are lashed to one side of the boat to balance the weight of the six crew members. He details how to grip the paddle, modeling ideal body form and stroke.

Sensing unease from some of our group, he offers a smile and encouragement, “I don’t expect anyone to master this today—but it’s important to know the proper way to paddle.”

In fact, good form is rooted in some serious science, and competitive paddlers tweak their body mechanics with equal parts precision and obsession. Iokepa instructs us to remember this, if nothing else: “Timing is everything.”

The best teams paddle perfectly in sync, arms extended and shoulders curved to help them execute short, quick strokes. The person in the front sets the pace, the last paddler steers. Everyone follows the commands of the person in the third position, who calls out to signal when paddlers should switch from the left side to the right.

Today isn’t just about gawking at pretty vistas (though we do). It’s a cultural immersion through action.

Hauling the 450-pound canoe from dry land to shore, we learn laulima, the Hawaiian value that translates as

“many hands working together.”

“This is not a canoe ‘ride,’” says Iokepa. “It’s a hands-on activity where everybody does their part.”

Once afloat, we skim just past the shore break, then pause as Iokepa’s voice washes over us. Practicing Hawaiian protocol, he offers a chant to ask permission to be here. We are now in the realm of Kanaloa—the Hawaiian ocean god—and must respect this place accordingly. Iokepa’s words stream into my ears and down to my core. Moments later he leads a kind of ocean meditation as we pause in silence.

“Keep your eyes open and your senses alive,” he encourages. “Now’s the time to recalibrate ourselves, clean that mental hard drive, and enjoy that unfiltered experience of the canoe.”

With our minds ready, it’s time for our bodies to follow.

“Mākaukau?”

wa‘a were carved from koa wood; today most canoes are fiberglass.

Timing is still key, and with Pu‘u Keka‘a rising to our right along the coast, we paddle as one, in perfect sync.

Opposite: Iokepa Naeole oversees the hotel’s Hale Huaka‘i activity center. For Iokepa, the wa‘a is more than just a vessel.

It’s a direct connection to his Polynesian ancestors.

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THIS PAGE: JASON MOORE; OPPOSITE: SHANOALEIGH MARSON

EARLY POLYNESIAN

“WHEN I’M ON THE OCEAN I’M HUMBLED. I’M IN THE MIDDLE OF CREATION.”

BOTTOM: JASON MOORE; TOP: SHANOALEIGH MARSON

WE ARE IN THE REALM OF KANALOA—THE HAWAIIAN OCEAN GOD—AND MUST RESPECT THIS PLACE.

BEACHING A 450-POUND CANOE

takes more than brute strength.

Using a buoy as leverage—and the Hawaiian value of laulima, or cooperation—the crew maneuvers the vessel onto land.

Iokepa hollers, alerting us to prepare for action.

“Hoe hapai!” We raise our paddles in unison, then angle them to pierce the ocean’s surface.

And with the final “Imua!” we’re off.

We glide along the coast for nearly two hours, as Iokepa shares stories from a lifetime of knowledge. We learn about Polynesian voyaging, the names of the ocean channels that surround us, and fundamental values like teamwork, commitment, respect, and conservation.

We ease into a steady rhythm and begin to move in sync with each other and our surroundings. The rhythm of the ocean’s swells is mesmeric, and hearing about the ways of the ancestors satiates my soul.

It’s a familiar feeling, one that overcomes many paddlers, no matter their experience. Iokepa still feels it, too: “When I’m on the ocean I’m humbled because I’m in the middle of creation.

There’s nothing else influencing me but my akua [god], my kūpuna [ancestors], and even my descendants.”

At Iokepa’s command, we raise our paddles and glide to a pause near Pu‘u Keka‘a. It’s commonly referred to as “Black Rock,” but Iokepa stresses the importance of calling this sacred place by its true name. He explains that behind every Hawaiian place name is a genealogy that tells a story, and that abandoning these words disconnect us from this history.

It is believed that in ancient times, a heiau (temple) perched atop Pu‘u Keka‘a’s summit. To this day, it is revered as “ka leina a ka ‘uhane”—a sacred spot from which a soul leaps into eternity.

Hawaiians held that when a person died, their soul left the body and wandered

Opposite: The canoe’s name, Kaleopo‘okela, translates as “the voice of excellence.” It’s also a nod to Dee Kaleo Coyle, head of Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel’s Po‘okela Program, which fosters cultural connections throughout the hotel.

until it found a doorway into the spirit world. For a living person to jump from Pu‘u Keka‘a was to risk not only physical injury, but the possibility of leaping straight into the hereafter.

We propel ourselves further along the coastline, and Iokepa turns our attention mauka (toward the mountain).

He explains how early Hawaiians devised land divisions known as ahupua‘a to care for their environment. These wedgeshaped sections spanned from the upper elevations to the sea. Each ahupua‘a contained the resources its community required, and everyone within it shared in the ahupua‘a’s wealth.

As our paddle comes to a close, and we point the wa‘a towards shore, I recall the Hawaiian proverb “Ma ka hana ka ‘ike,” “Through doing one learns.” It aptly describes today’s experience. With every stroke, we connect with those before us, and every roused sense opens a path for understanding.

“For us, success isn’t just about leaving guests with pretty pictures,” says Iokepa. “Our goal is for them to leave with the emotional connection to this place.”

For details about Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel’s Wa‘a Paddle Tour, visit KBHMaui.com. The public is welcome. Group and private tours available daily, weather permitting.

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DINING

STO RY BY S H A N N O N W I A N EC K I

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ping It Hān a Kee

NE

K TA

T Opposite: A sublime sauce gribiche with crunchy cucumber namasu is the perfect foil for chef James Watts’s housespice seared ‘ahi Nicoise salad with fennel pickled in HI-Spice brand Turmeric Ginger Hot Sauce. Rice, vinegar-marinated pohole fern and dryroasted tomato petals add piquant acidity, marrying with the Koreanstyle soy-braised sweet potato.

Right: The Plantation House, managed

by Travaasa Hāna, is the newest venue available for private galas and food-andwine events.

L FA R E AT E A S T M AU I ’ S H OCA I S T NL O R EO IC H O

S T O R Y B Y B E C K Y S P E E R E | P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y R YA N S I P H E R S

he narrow road hugs the meandering mountainside, turning the drive to Hāna into a waltz— with adagio the necessary tempo. My daughter Tori and I mostly ride in silence, passing fallen eucalyptus and rose apple trees blanketed in soft green moss.

“Did I ever tell you how I first found out about Hāna?” I ask. “In 1980, I was at a dinner party in California, where the hosts prepared a salad dressing from Vincent Price’s cookbook. I was intrigued that an actor best known for his roles in B horror movies had written a cookbook, and after dinner, while perusing its recipes, I came across a section highlighting Hotel Hana-Maui.” I imagine the stately actor and his wife, Mary, strolling the hotel grounds, mingling with the locals, perhaps scribbling recipes shared by the hotel’s employees.

Hotel Hana-Maui is now Travaasa Hana, its low buildings and resplendent grounds as serenely inviting as when it was a hideaway for the rich and famous. Driving up to the porte cochere, we’re greeted by the bellman’s warm “Aloha! Welcome to Hāna.” During check-in, the receptionist mentions that a tour of Hana Herbs is leaving soon, and we are welcome to join. We

T E L

Clockwise from top: Pohole ferns, wildharvested today from Hana Herbs, will be on tonight’s menu. Chef James’s playful take on the venerable peanut butter and banana sandwich—local apple bananas and peanut butter, wrapped in lumpia, crispy fried and served with kaffir lime, lemongrass and coconut ice cream. Nori-and togarashi-crusted ono (wahoo) tempts when served with Thai black rice.

The Preserve Kitchen’s breakfast of champions: eggs Benedict on avocado toast.

deposit our bags in our room and return for the tour, led by Marni Aina, resident manager, and executive chef James Watts.

On the short, bouncy ride to the farm, I ask James how he likes living in one of Hawai‘i’s most remote townships.

Unhesitatingly, the new Travaasa chef says, “I’ve only been here for ten months, but I love it. The produce, beef and fish are the freshest you’ll find anywhere.” He adds, “I think I’ve been in training to live a rural lifestyle. I’m from Chicago, but my first culinary job was in the Appalachian Mountains. We did farmto-table cuisine . . . roasted whole pigs for barbecue. In 2007, I ended up working on Kaua‘i, where I met my wife, Nohealani.”

Soon the couple were traveling internationally: to New Zealand, Tasmania, Western Australia, Southeast Asia, Hong Kong, China and the South Pacific. They returned to Hawai‘i, this time making the Valley Isle their home, and James spent five years as sous chef at Andaz Maui. “Experiencing exotic foods and ingredients is paramount for chefs,” he says. “One thing that stands out about living in Hāna is the strong cultural connections to the land and family and friends. I’ve been able to participate in akule huki [hauling nets filled with big eye mackerel into long boats], camping and [shoreline] fishing.

Next, I’m looking forward to pig hunting.”

What’s for dinner tonight? I ask. James replies, “Fruit from Clayton Russell’s and Ono Farms, vegetables from Hāna Fresh and Hana Harvest, beef from Hāna Ranch, fish from local fishermen, and, of course, pohole [fiddlehead fern] from Hana Herbs.”

Top: Appalachia meets Hāna in fried chicken and cornbread with local honey and cinnamon creme fraiche, pan-fried broccolini and toasted almonds.

Middle, left to right: Pohole pieces are prepped with other ingredients for tonight’s dinner.

Fresh sweet-potato chips are the perfect vessels to dip into kaffir-lime-coconut poisson cru.

Bottom: Tender beet salad and herbed goat cheese accompany pickled radish, grapefruit and candied macadamia nuts on baby arugula topped with an irresistible, tart lime vinaigrette.

We arrive at the long, concrete drive that leads to Hana Herbs & Flowers, a place I’ve wanted to tour since the late 1980s, when the farm sold basil and tender fern shoots to the old Maui Prince Hotel on Maui’s south shore. Owner Eileen Comeaux’s effervescent personality is as large as the blue sky above, a perfect complement to her smiling, slow-talking, Louisiana-born husband, Rene. “Welcome! Are you all ready to tour the farm and pick some pohole?” she queries. She leads us down manicured paths amid coconut and avocado trees, and citrus trees heavy with fruit. We walk past the packing shed, the hillsides beyond covered in acres of edible fern. “We are a USDA-certified packing plant, approved to sell [produce] to the mainland,” says Eileen.

“How much pohole do you sell?” I ask.

“During high season, we can ship up to 1,000 pounds a week.” I gasp at the quantity. I thought the 10-pound harvest from my own pohole patch was big!

An hour later, we’re back at Travaasa. Tori and I stop at the gift shop for snacks, then head to the hotel’s saline pool to relax before joining an afternoon lei-making class in the shade of a monkeypod tree.

That evening, we arrive at The Preserve Kitchen, Travaasa’s signature (and sole) restaurant, for a farm-to-table dinner à la chef James. We’re greeted by food-and-beverage director MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI » SEP-OCT 2019

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CHEF JAMES is in his element at Hana Herbs farm.

LIVING IN H Ā N A I S A BO UT H AV I N G ST RO N G C U LTU R A L C O N N ECT I O N S TO T H E L A N D.

Opposite: Brunch is a bounty of locally sourced fare. Shrimp and grits take center stage, with wild boar sausage and roasted pickled corn.

It’s surrounded by brûlée ruby-red grapefruit; the Hawaiian plate (kalua pork, purple sweet potatoes, spinach and eggs); Hāna poutine, garlic furikake steak fries, chopped rib eye, eggs and gravy; buttermilk pancakes with cinnamonspiced apples; loco moco with Maui Cattle Co. beef patty, jasmine rice, eggs, mushrooms and gravy; shrimp and fish po’ boy and fries; and juices made fresh daily.

Jeremy Fikes. A certified master chef himself, he’s new to Hāna, and tells us that special wine dinners are in the works— not only for the restaurant, but for the Plantation House, an estate built in 1864 by brothers and plantation owners August and Oscar Unna. Here, they hosted Hawai‘i’s last queen, Lili‘uokalani, and her husband, John Dominis. The Islands’ last king, Kalākaua, also stayed at the sprawling plantation home, Jeremy says. So did the iconic artist Georgia O’Keeffe, in 1939.

We take our seats in the spacious dining room, and Tori opts for the chef’s playful spin on “fish and rice”: ‘ahi poke appetizer on forbidden black rice with “Auntie Jill’s inamona” and Hāna avocado.

I choose a dish named “Octopus Garden,” tender grilled slices of tako (octopus) with poi, pipi kaula (dried, salted beef), pickled grapes, and Korean finadene sauce—a salty, spicy concoction of onions, garlic, shoyu, vinegar and peppers. Pohole salad tossed in a delicate papaya and white-miso vinaigrette, and a roasted-beets salad with pickled radish, grapefruit and candied macadamia nuts follow the appetizers.

Our next dish, local beef braised for three hours in Maui Brewing Company Coconut Porter, is served with a drizzle of lemony gremolata sauce, smashed and griddled potatoes, roasted curly endive and sweet baby carrots. James’s catch of the day is fresh ono (wahoo), served blackened with a house spice blend and drizzled with saké lemon caper butter sauce with sides of root vegetable purée, pohole and farro grains. Nearly stuffed, we decide on a shared dessert plate: apple banana and peanut butter folded into thin lumpia wrappers and fried to a delicate crunch. It’s served with a scoop of kaffir lime leaves and lemongrass “tom khao” coconut ice cream. This is one dessert no one should miss!

The following morning, we walk to the top of Pu‘u o Kahaula before sunrise. Moonlight spills over the hillside, where waking cattle begin to low, a haunting sound at this early hour.

We head back to The Preserve Kitchen for a brunch filled with tempting island-style choices: loco moco slathered in mushroom-and-onion gravy, sautéed apple pancakes, and Tori’s favorite: the Hawaiian breakfast of kalua pig, sweet potato, spinach, eggs and rice. We linger over breakfast, savoring every bite, and promise ourselves that we will return—next time for the spa experience, too!

Hāna, a hui hou! Until we meet again.

Web Exclusive: Find Chef James Watts’s recipe for roasted beet salad at MauiMagazine.net/Travaasa-beet-salad.

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THE GREAT POHOLE CHALLENGE FIVE AWARD-WINNING CHEFS SHARE RECIPES— AND OH, HOW FAR THE HUMBLE FERN CAN GO!

Story by

B E C K Y

S P E E R E

|

Photography by

M I E K O

H O R I K O S H I

I

n the Hawaiian language it’s called pohole, in Japanese warabi, in Filipino pako, and in English fiddlehead fern. I feel a bio-culinary kinship to this plant that fed and nurtured our family during hard financial times. As a seven-year-old growing up in the tiny community of Wainaku on the island of Hawai‘i, I’d disappear into the lush patch of green with my mother, Fumiko, breaking the tender stems of the edible fern.

That night, dinner would consist of a simple preparation of plantation food: sliced onion sautéed with canned sardines, glass noodles, and tender pohole shoots seasoned with shoyu and sugar. It was savory and delicious served over rice with a salty red ume (pickled plum).

With so much talk about food sovereignty, sustainable agriculture and buying local, I was surprised to learn recently that tons of pohole are shipped off-island for sale. Meanwhile we import asparagus, trading a fern for a fern . . . huh?!?

So I decided to challenge a few Maui chefs to create an original recipe using locally grown pohole.

To my delight, they did. Check it out. And as the locals say, “Go try ’em!” Then challenge yourself with these great recipes and go buy ’em!

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FABULOUS FERN

Harvested from Maui’s rainforests, the wild and tender pohole shoot is a culinary chameleon.

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NUTCHAREE'S Thai chef Nutcharee Case (opposite, center) found Maui’s fern a delicious fit in her Pohole and Shrimp Salad.

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HUMBLE MARKET KITCHIN

Chef Matt Dela Cruz used the tart fern for his Pickled Pohole Salsa Verde.

MAUI FRESH STREATERY

Chef Kyle Kawakami shares a Shrimp and Pohole Tempura recipe worthy of an island cookbook.

SALE PEPE

To Maui with amore: Chef Michele De Bari’s Pohole, Pancetta and Roasted Tomato Pasta with Ricotta Salata.

HUMUHUMU Chef Alvin Savella works the flavors with his new spice release, using it in his recipe for Loaded Mochiko Pohole Fries.

SALE PEPE

When I reached out to Qiana Di Bari, co-owner of Sale Pepe Pizzeria e Cucina, she texted back: “Michele is so excited!

He loves that vegetable!” Today Chef Michele is at the stove, blanching pohole and exuding excitement. “I’m going to make a pohole dish with pancetta, tomatoes, ricotta salata and our fresh pasta.”

He asks, “Have you ever tasted ricotta salata?” and slices a piece of the limestone-white Italian cheese for me to taste.

It’s medium-dry and crumbly with a pronounced cow’s-milk flavor. Michele says, “It’s really good in pasta dishes because it melts and will add a creamy finish.”

He dices the fern, musing, “I can use pohole in risotto or as pizza topping. . . .”

With the prep done, the dish comes together in five minutes. The aroma of simmering garlic, cherry tomatoes and pancetta fills the tiny kitchen. A true Italian, Michele asks while plating the dishes, “How about a little glass of prosecco to go with the pasta?” As I bite into the al dente pasta and pohole, I’m thinking I can’t wait to come back for the pohole risotto. Insieme mangiare!

POHOLE, PANCETTA & ROASTED TOMATO PASTA WITH RICOTTA SALATA SERVINGS: 2–3 | PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES

½ lb. pohole 4-5 roasted garlic cloves

3 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil + 2 Tbsp

1 c. oven-roasted tomatoes (baked in EVOO, salt & pepper for 10 minutes in a 400° oven)

½ c. chicken stock

4 oz. pancetta, thinly sliced and cut into 1” ribbons

2 Tbsp. Parmesan, grated

4 Tbsp. ricotta salata

1 10-oz. package of Bu’Ono pasta*

4 qt. water: 2 Tbsp. salt

Blanch pohole 1 minute, then cool in ice water. Drain and cut pohole into ½” pieces. Add 3 Tbsp. EVOO to a mediumhot sauté pan, add roasted garlic cloves and sauté for 30 seconds. Add pohole, roasted tomatoes and sliced pancetta.

Add salt and pepper to taste. Sauté 30 seconds. Add 1/2 c. chicken stock. Reduce sauce, about two minutes.

Cook fresh pasta in salted boiling water for two minutes, or al dente.

When the sauce is reduced, add

pasta directly from the boiling water (using tongs to drain slightly). Sprinkle with Parmesan and toss well to coat pasta with sauce. (The juices will absorb into the pasta.) Divide pasta onto dinner plates and garnish with finely grated ricotta salata. Drizzle with EVOO. Serve with your best Italian prosecco or malvasia wine from the Piedmont region. *Sale Pepe’s house-made Bu’Ono Pasta is for sale at the restaurant, and at Foodland Farms in Lahaina, Foodland Kehalani in Wailuku, and Down to Earth in Kahului.

NUTCHAREE’S

Garnish

2 Tbsp. each cilantro, mint, and red onion, chopped roughly; and ½ c. carrots, thinly sliced.

lanch pohole for 1 minute in boilB ing water. Drain and rinse under cool water. Prepare glass noodles according to directions on the bag. Drain well. In a small bowl, mix lime juice, fish sauce and sriracha. Taste for spiciness, adding more sriracha, if desired. Place noodles, seafood, and pohole in a serving dish.

Drizzle vinaigrette over and top with garnishes. Toss well before serving.

“As soon as I heard your message, I knew what I’d prepare!” Nutcharee Case tells me. “My first restaurant was in Hāna. The pohole is so plentiful there. I made a dish with it that was very popular. You’re going to love it.” The chef/owner of Nutcharee’s Authentic Thai Food Restaurant was born and raised in Lopburi, northeast of Bangkok. Though she has lived on Maui for fifteen years, her food sates the taste buds with the salty, sweet, sour, and spicy flavors of her homeland. “I don’t cook fusion, she states. “I am a traditional chef that prepares true Thai cuisine.”

In 2015, Nutcharee opened a restaurant in Kīhei’s Azeka Makai Center. Four years later, she won the Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Southeast Asian Cuisine.

(She also has three Silver ‘Aipono Awards, two in the Southeast Asian category, one for Best Noodles. But who’s counting?)

After our phone call, I harvest pohole from my garden on the north shore and drive to Nutcharee’s restaurant. Her face lights up as I hand her the ferns, and she says, “We eat this in Thailand, too.”

To dine at Nutcharee’s is to take your taste buds to deliciously exotic climes.

When you can’t get to Kīhei, this recipe will have you enjoying authentic Thai flavors in your own home.

*Look for glass noodles (also known as bean thread, vermicelli, and cellophane noodles) in the Asian section of supermarkets.

POHOLE & SHRIMP SALAD

8 pc. Kaua‘i shrimp, peeled and deveined, head on

1 lb. Hāna pohole fern, cleaned and cut into 1” lengths

1 Kula sweet onion, julienned

4 c. assorted local vegetables (kabocha, eggplant, zucchini), sliced thinly

3 c. Japanese tempura batter mix*

2 c. ice water vegetable oil for deep-frying

MAUI FRESH STREATERY

Kyle Kawakami, the 2019 ‘Aipono Awards Chef of the Year, grew up in the farming community of Kula, and is a longtime proponent of local small business. You’ll find him at Kumu Farms in Wailuku, and at farmers markets around Maui, sourcing produce for his “Big Red” food truck. If you haven’t tried his fare, make a beeline for his internationally inspired, world-class plate lunches. Get there early; he sells out fast!

When I saw Kyle on social media, proclaiming his love for the delectable pohole, I knew he should be included in our challenge. The chef’s kakiage is home-boy food. Who doesn’t love a crisp, lightly battered shrimp and vegetable tempura? Add a salty dip of shoyu spiked with a squirt of Filipino calamansi lime, and the marriage is complete.

I think this recipe is one for the family cookbook that will live in many island kitchens. Maybe yours, too.

KAUA‘I SHRIMP & POHOLE KAKIAGE TEMPURA SERVINGS: 4 | PREP TIME: 1 HOUR

SERVINGS: 4 | PREP TIME: 1 HOUR

8 shrimp, peeled, cleaned and cooked in lightly salted water

4 scallops

4 calamari, cleaned and sliced

8 oz. pohole

1 package glass noodles*

2 Tbsp. lime juice

2 Tbsp. sriracha, to taste 1–2 Tbsp. fish sauce

Dipping sauce:

1 calamansi lime, halved and seeded

¼ c. soy sauce Kaua‘i sea salt

Heat deep skillet or saucepan with 2” vegetable oil to 375°F. Gently mix 2 cups batter mix with ice water, taking care not to over mix. Place 1 cup of dry tempura mix in a bowl. Toss pohole in the dry mix, coating well. Remove to a platter.

Dredge other ingredients with dry mix.

Pour a small amount of wet batter over the pohole, tossing to coat well. When the oil is hot, gently place half-cup portions of pohole mix into the oil and fry till golden brown. Drain on paper towels. In batches, dip the remaining vegetables in batter, deep fry and drain on paper towels. Dip shrimp in batter and fry for 2 minutes, or till cooked through. Serve with calamansi-soy dipping sauce and Kaua‘i sea salt on the side. *Ready-to-mix tempura flour is available at TJ’s Party Pantry in Wailuku, and all Longs Drugs.

HUMBLE MARKET KITCHIN

A long line of guests waited in the afternoon sun at the 2019 Maui Ag Fest Grand Taste event. What were they waiting for? Kiawe tostadas filled with roasted ‘ulu carnitas, and cauliflower chorizo topped with pohole-tomatillo salsa created by Matt Dela Cruz, executive chef of Humble Market Kitchin in Wailea, celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi’s latest venue. “We don’t even have a south-of-the-border dish [at the restaurant],” Matt laughs, “but I took this as a challenge. It was fun to create.”

Matt’s history with Yamaguchi goes back fourteen years, when he served as executive chef at Roy’s restaurant in Po‘ipū, Kaua‘i. His history with pohole goes back even farther. “I grew up on Kaua‘i, and we ate pohole all the time . . . it grows in our backyard,” he says. “I love bringing it to the forefront in dining.”

Salsa lovers everywhere, fry up some fresh tortilla chips and dip into Chef Matt’s piquant green salsa. Delicioso!

PICKLED POHOLE FERN SALSA VERDE

2 c. sugar

1 c. kosher salt

4 fresh tomatillo, peeled and charred

2 whole cloves garlic, roasted

1 charred jalapeño, seeded

2 Maui onions, peeled and charred

1 bunch cilantro

2 Tbsp. lime juice salt and pepper to taste

Combine vinegar, sugar and salt and mix thoroughly. Cut pohole into ½-inch pieces and immerse in this pickling liquid. Using a Vitamix or blender, blend onion, jalapeño, tomatillo, garlic cloves, cilantro and lime juice. Pour contents into a serving bowl. Drain the pohole well and mince. Gently fold into the tomatillo mixture. Season to taste.

HUMUHUMU

When Food Network’s Beat Bobby Flay held a “battle of the islands” in 2018, Alvin Savella lived up to his nickname, “The Kitchen Assassin.” That was also when he won Chef of the Year at the ‘Aipono Awards. I’ve followed Alvin since his days at The Westin Kā‘anapali’s Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, and The Banyan Tree at The Ritz-Carlton. Last year the Grand Wailea Resort gave him the reins to its signature restaurant, Humuhumu.

Alvin’s culinary creations can range from whimsical to dramatic. His flavors are always spot on, and his food styling never disappoints.

The pohole challenge was right up Alvin’s alley. His creation: “loaded” mochiko pohole fries. “I thought this would be something that I’d like to eat.”

Its secret weapon: a new spice blend he created for Spiceology. The Kitchen Assassin Citrus Ginger Seasoning hits all the right notes with a balance of citrus flavor, ginger, garlic, salt and pepper.

Pohole fries dipped into punchy, creamy tobiko aioli, followed with a nibble of crunchy pickled onions . . . it’s bliss in a bowl!

LOADED MOCHIKO POHOLE FRIES

SERVINGS: ENOUGH FOR A PARTY! PREP TIME: 45 MINUTES

SERVINGS: 4 PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES, PLUS AT LEAST 4 HOURS TO MARINATE ONIONS

1 lb. pohole, cleaned and cut into 3” pieces

2 lbs. fresh pohole fern 4 c. rice wine vinegar

oil for deep-frying Marinade

1 c. mochiko flour

1 c. cornstarch

2 eggs

¾ c. tamari

½ c. brown sugar

2 Tbsp. Citrus Ginger Seasoning*

Tobiko Aioli

2 calamansi limes, juiced

2 oz. black tobiko

1 tsp. Citrus Ginger Seasoning

3 oz. mayo Combine all ingredients and reserve for plating.

Pickled Red Onion

1 red onion, julienned 1 c. red wine vinegar 2 oz. ginger, minced

In a small pot add vinegar and ginger and bring to a boil. Turn off heat and let steep for 10 minutes. Cool. Add onions to the vinegar mixture. Let marinate for at least 4 hours.

Garnish

2 Tbsp. scallions, cut on diagonal and iced

1 tsp. white and black sesame seeds

¼ c. katsuobushi (bonito flakes)

1 calamansi, halved, seeded and charred

Pour half the cornstarch and mochiko flour into a mixing bowl, stir together, and set aside. Pour the rest of the cornstarch and mochiko flour into a second mixing bowl, and add marinade ingredients: eggs, tamari, brown sugar, and Citrus Ginger Seasoning. Add pohole fern, tossing to coat, and marinate for 10 minutes at room temperature.

Heat oil to 375 degrees. Drain pohole from marinade and toss with the dry mochiko flour and cornstarch. Fry immediately until golden brown. Drain on paper towels.

Assembly Top fried pohole with tobiko aioli, pickled onion, sesame seeds, katsuobushi, scallions and charred calamansi. *Available for purchase at Spiceology. com; search “The Kitchen Assassin Citrus Ginger Seasoning.”

MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI » SEP-OCT 2019

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C H E F ' S

K I T C H E N

BEST OF THE FEST

Maui meets Mardi Gras at the 2019 Kapalua Wine & Food Festival’s finale.

Photo, bottom right: Along with his “Best of the Fest” award, Sheraton’s Chef Zac Coltes won a set of coveted Wüsthof knives and a pair of roundtrip tickets for two on Southwest Airlines, anywhere they fly. He’s joined, left to right, by Seafood Fest judges Diane Woodburn, MNKO publisher; Master Sommelier Patrick Okubo of Young’s Market; Laura Nieto, Southwest Airlines’ director of community outreach; Corporate Chef Michael Garaghty of Wüsthof Knives; and MNKO dining editor Becky Speere.

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achary Coltes has a love for Southern cuisine, specifically the Cajun and Creole dishes of New Orleans. Two years ago, after purchasing a one-way ticket to “The Big Easy,” he received the only offer that could change his mind: a dream job of sous chef at the Sheraton Maui Resort. “I cancelled my ticket that day and have been here since,” Zachary says with a celebratory smile.

His two favorite compass points converged at the 2019 Kapalua Wine & Food Festival, whose finale Seafood Fest, sponsored by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, took

a Mardi Gras theme—happily so for attendees. Chef Zac’s Kaua‘i shrimp andouille gumbo croquettes scored top honors from the fest’s judges, who praised his creative carnival of flavors.

For the second year in a row, the runner-up Judge’s Choice was awarded to Gannon’s Chef Bret Pafford, this time for his kung pao Kona kampachi. Dipped in light-as-a-feather batter and fried to a crunchy finish, the locally raised fish was a stepped-up Louisiana fish fry with spicy notes of gochu jang sauce and aioli. The Banyan Tree’s Chef Bella Toland won the fan-favorite vote for her lump crab coconut rice cakes and he‘e (octopus) lū‘au crispy dumplings with sweet and spicy calamansi dipping sauce.

On stage, Master Sommelier Patrick Okubo suggested wine pairings for the winning dishes, recommending a bright and herbaceous sauvignon blanc to harmonize with Chef Zac’s jalapeño grits, and a crisp, sparkling wine for the fried Kona kampachi. Okubo added, “The Banyan Tree’s dishes pair nicely with a slightly sweet Riesling. The sweetness of the wine should match the sweetness in the sauce, while countering the spiciness.”

Mahalo to all the chef participants at the 2019 KWFF Seafood Fest—and to Chef Zac for sharing the recipes for these soul-satisfying winning dishes.

Story by BECKY SPEERE | Photography by MIEKO HORIKOSHI MAUIMAGAZINE.NET

KAUA‘I SHRIMP ANDOUILLE GUMBO CROQUETTES (Seared Kaua‘i Prawn with Essence of Lobster Grits, Pickled Jalapeño-Corn Relish) Yield: 4 servings Prep time: 2 hours, plus at least 6 hours to freeze croquette mixture 1 6–20 large, head-on Kaua‘i shrimp, peeled and deveined

3 Tbsp. vegetable oil

Relish

½

3

½

2

¼

½

¼

¼

2

c. fresh Kula corn kernels jalapeños, seeded and diced c. rice-wine vinegar c. water c. pickling spice c. sugar c. red onion, minced c. roasted red pepper, minced Tbsp. cilantro, chopped

Boil rice-wine vinegar, water, sugar and pickling spice for 5 minutes. Strain and cool to room temperature. Pour liquid over corn and jalapeño and refrigerate 8–10 hours. Drain corn and mix with remaining ingredients. Refrigerate.

Gumbo Croquette

1 lb. andouille sausage

3 Tbsp. vegetable oil

1 lb. onion, minced

½ lb. green bell pepper, minced

½ lb. okra, minced

¼ lb. jalapeño, seeded and

2

1

½

1

2

2

2

2

¾

¾

minced (or to taste) Tbsp. garlic, minced Tbsp. cumin, ground Tbsp. oregano, minced Tbsp. gumbo filé Tbsp. Cajun spice Tbsp. salt tsp. black pepper qt. chicken stock lb. unsalted butter lb. flour

Croquette crust

2 c. flour

4 eggs, whisked

2 c. panko

2 c. dried ebi (shrimp), ground vegetable oil for frying Sauté sausage in oil in an 8-quart pot for 5 minutes. Add onion, peppers and okra. Sauté until vegetables soften, approximately 5 minutes. Add garlic and seasonings. Cook for 5 minutes, then add chicken stock and bring to a simmer. In a separate pan, melt butter, then whisk in flour to make a roux and cook until brown, stirring frequently.

Slowly whisk roux into stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Pour into 9x13 baking pans, up to 1 inch deep. Cool to room temperature, then freeze mixture 4 to 6 hours. Cut into 1x2-inch rectangles. Mix panko and dried ebi. Working quickly, toss rectangles in flour, dip in egg, then panko-ebi mixture. Fry rectangles in oil at 350 degrees.

Grits

½

½

2

3

1

¼

lb. onion, minced lb. bacon, minced c. grits c. lobster stock c. cream lb. butter salt & pepper to taste

Sauté bacon until it starts to crisp. Add onion and cook until translucent. Add stock and cream and bring to a boil.

Whisk in grits and lower heat. Cover and cook until grits are soft and thick, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat when done and whisk in butter. Add salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm.

Assembly Sear Kaua‘i shrimp in vegetable oil till cooked through, about 5 minutes total, turning once. Keep warm. Place 1 cup of hot grits on the plate, top with 2 croquettes and 4 to 5 shrimp. Garnish with 1 tablespoon of corn relish. Enjoy!

Notes: Extra unfried, breaded croquettes may be frozen and fried at a later time. Makes a delicious appetizer on its own with sauce remoulade.

Look for dried ebi in the Asian section of supermarkets on Maui, such as TJ’s Party Pantry and Whole Foods Market.

Kaua‘i shrimp is available at Times Supermarket in Kīhei and Honokōwai, Foodland Farms in Lahaina, Costco and Paradise Supermart in Kahului.

M I X O L O G Y

AYRES DEL ATLANTICO Yield: 1 cocktail

1

3/4

2

2”

3”

oz. Rangpur Lime Tanqueray or your favorite gin oz. sweet vermouth oz. Cynar artichoke liqueur (from Italy) sprig of rosemary strip of orange peel tonic water

Fill a wine goblet with ice. Muddle the rosemary and orange peel with the gin.

Add Cynar and the muddled herbs and gin to the glass of ice. Top it off with tonic water. Stir gently. Salud!

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MAUIMAGAZINE.NET

Alex Resnik is a managing partner with Wolfgang Puck and director of operations for its Spago restaurant at the Four Seasons Maui in Wailea.

While in Buenos Aires, Alex visited the acclaimed bar Floreria Atlantico, and discovered a delectable cocktail by owner/bartender Renato Giovanni.

“Discovered” is the operative word.

The sign outside announces a florist shop. Enter, walk through a cooler, descend some stairs and knock at an unmarked door that opens to a speakeasy.

Giovanni’s cocktails are worth sleuthing out. We offer as proof a recipe inspired by his: Ayres del Atlantico.

A P O LY N E S I A N F E A S T & S H O W A musical and culinary journey to Hawai‘i, Aotearoa, Tahiti and Samoa.

AOTEAROA Land of the long white cloud, Aotearoa – New Zealand, is home to the Maori people.

SAMOA “The cradle of Polynesia,” literally the sacred center of its fiery soul.

HAWAI‘I We begin in our beautiful island home of Hawai‘i with our chants, songs and hula .

TAHITI The land of intrigue and romance, has beckoned explorers from around the world.

667-LELE (5353) • Toll-free: 1-866-244-5353 (LELE) 505 Front Street, Lahaina, Maui, Hawai‘i WWW.FEASTATLELE .COM

DINING GUIDE

G U I D E D I N I N G

» B = Breakfast » BR = Brunch » L = Lunch » H = Happy Hour » D = Dinner » N = Dinner past 9 p.m. » R= Reservation recommended » $ = Average entrée under $15 » $$ = Under $25 » $$$ = Under $40 » $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2019

WEST SIDE A‘A ROOTS

DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC

THE GAZEBO

Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234

Outrigger Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 669-5621

Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia.

Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$

Macadamia-nut pancakes, French toast, and legendary fried rice served with an ocean view.

Kid-friendly. American.

B, L. $

CLIFF DIVE GRILL

DUKE’S

Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031

Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900

HONOKŌWAI OKAZUYA

interpretation of her lola’s (grandmother’s) pancit palabok is a fine Filipino noodle dish chock-full of shrimp and calamari steak, finished with a lobster-stock reduction in annatto-gingergarlic-shrimp sauce, and topped with herbs, chicharron and garlic.

Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$

all made with fresh local ingredients. Daily specials, and an epic entrée with forbidden rice and marinated broccoli in red-pepper sesame sauce.

Second West Maui location: Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali. American. B, L. $

157 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 793-2115

BREAKWALL SHAVE ICE COMPANY

Nutty veggie and whitecheddar burgers, bahn mi bowls with lemongrass chicken, and mojo pork for Cubanos on freshly baked sourdough—all served in this quasi-industrial setting.

Don’t forget the Valley Isle Kombucha.

International. L. $-$$

The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., #104, Lahaina, 661-4900

Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Suite 3, Nāpili, 298-2499

Vegan cuisine made with the freshest Maui produce.

Try the açai bowl, soba bowl with peanut sauce, or bagel sandwich with hummus, avo and veggies.

International. B, L. $

ALCHEMY MAUI

ALOHA MIXED PLATE 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322

Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites.

Kid-friendly.

Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $

AMIGO’S 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210

Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, chile verde, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Huge portions.

Kid-friendly. Mexican.

B, L, D. $

AUNTIE’S KITCHEN The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3259

Saimin, burgers and fresh-fish plate lunches mingle with other local fare.

Local Mixed Plate. B, L, D. $–$$

THE BANYAN TREE 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096

Chef Bella Toland’s

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Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish Adult shave ice? You bet! Cool taco to go with your poolside off with one of the best snow mai tai or Black Rock Lager. cones on Maui, and discover Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$ your favorite island flavor.

Treats. $ THE COFFEE STORE

CANE & CANOE Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681

For breakfast: Surfing Goat Dairy cheese crêpes with Kula strawberries or croquemadame made with Hawaiian sweet bread filled with kālua pork and Gruyère mornay sauce. For dinner: Kaua‘i prawns and Kona kampachi with beet dashi, kabocha squash, or mushroom Bolognese over yaki soba noodles.

Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$–$$$$

CAPTAIN JACK’S ISLAND GRILL The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 672 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0988

The menu alone is worth the trip, with choices like Siren’s shrimp, Black Bart’s BBQ chicken salad, and Black Beard’s Philly cheesesteak.

American. L, D. $–$$

CHOICE HEALTH BAR 1087 Limahana Pl., #1A, Lahaina, 661-7711

Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are

Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 669-4170

Imagine Old Hawai‘i while dining on crab-andmacadamia-nut wontons or prime rib at this open-air beach house.

Kid-friendly. American/ Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R. $$

FEAST AT LELE

Stop in for a coffee and muffin . . . and you may end up staying for lunch—or later. (They’re open till 6 p.m.)

Great service and freshbaked goods, yogurt-granola parfaits, chia pudding, and to-go items.

Coffee Shop. B, L, D. $

505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353

COOL CAT CAFÉ

744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425.

658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908

Burgers, chicken, fish and more, all in a ’50s diner atmosphere.

Kid-friendly. American.

L, D. $

DOWN THE HATCH The Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900

Mermaid fries with cheese, bacon, ranch dressing and lava sauce; towering shrimp cocktails; fresh island fish; and lots of Southern aloha . . . great shave ice, too! (See Breakwall’s listing.)

Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D, N, R. $$

This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$

FLEETWOOD’S ON FRONT ST.

(Yes, that Fleetwood.) Pacific oysters with a tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome, and a one-pound Harley Davidson Hog Burger.

Bar opens at 2 p.m.

American/British Pub Food.

L, H, D. $$–$$$$

FRIDA’S MEXICAN BEACH HOUSE 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287

Chalupas, fresh aguachile ‘ahi, short-rib tacos, and great mixology are among the reasons this seaside restaurant won the Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Mexican Cuisine.

Latin-inspired. L, H, D. $–$$

3600-D L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Honokōwai, 665-0512

Plate lunches piled high with two-scoops rice and mac salad fly out the door of this tiny takeout shop.

Local Mixed Plate. Cash only. L. $

HONOLULU COFFEE COMPANY Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 868-4806

‘Aipono’s 2019 Silver Award winner for Best Coffee Shop, this full-service coffee bar also offers light fare such as granola parfait with fresh fruit, bagels, and ham-and-cheese croissants.

Coffee Shop. B, L. $

HONU SEAFOOD & PIZZA 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390

Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza.

Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$

HULA GRILL Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636

Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy poke tacos, tiki mai tais, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music.

Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D. $$

JAPENGO Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727

Great steaks and authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood are just two of the reasons Japengo won ‘Aipono’s 2019 Gold Award as Restaurant of the Year.

Japanese. D, N. $$$

JOEY’S KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474 Second West Maui location: Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590

You can start your day with macadamia-nut pancakes or kālua-pork omelet at Whalers Village . . . and end at Joey’s Nāpili venue with the best dinner ever. Chef Joey Macadangdang knows good food.

Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$

LAHAINA GRILL

820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600

The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw, and ice-cold beer, or just-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance.

After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie!

American. B, L, D. $

LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476

This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels.

Also see South Shore listing.

Treats. $

MĀLA OCEAN TAVERN 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9394

Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the healthconscious and the hedonistic at this surfside tavern.

Turtle sightings are nearly guaranteed.

Mediterranean. BR (SatSun), L, D. $$

MAUIGROWN COFFEE COMPANY STORE 277 Lahaina-luna Rd., Lahaina, 661-2728

If you’re running low on energy, head to MauiGrown’s plantation-style hale for a boost. Pumpkin bread and other baked goods round out a great cuppa joe.

Coffee Shop/Café. B, L. $

127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117

MAUI’S BEST BANANA BREAD + COFFEE CO.

Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad; Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with vanilla-bean jasmine rice; or the famous Kona coffee-roasted rack of lamb with coffee-cabernet demi-glace. Great wine selections and cocktails.

American/Pacific Rim. D, R. $$$$

180 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 661-6216

LEILANI’S ON THE BEACH

The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6400

Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495

Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors with a lemongrass miso salmon and Duroc pork ribs with honey BBQ glaze.

Kid-friendly. Steak/ Seafood. L, H, D, N. $$

Banana, roasted macadamia nuts, and coconut—life’s essentials rolled into a single serving of sweetness.

Coffees, smoothies, and lunch, too! Bacon, eggs and ham bagel, turkey-avo wrap.

GF banana-bread option.

Coffee Shop. B, L. $

MAUKA MAKAI

Expect the freshest fish, beef and lamb, vegetable sautés, and island-inspired desserts at this restaurant that celebrates the fishing and farming cultures of ancient Hawai‘i.

Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$

MERRIMAN’S KAPALUA 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua, 669-6400

Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create the most delectable fare.

Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, R. $$–$$$$

MISO PHAT SUSHI Kahana Manor, 4310 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #111, Kahana, 669-9010

See South Side listing.

MOKU ROOTS 335 Keawe St., #211, Lahaina, 214-5106

Where can you find a vegan/ vegetarian venue worthy of the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best New Restaurant? The same place you’ll find a Gold for tastiest Healthy Fare—here!

Vegetarian-Vegan. B, L, D, R. $

MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763

See South Shore listing.

MYTHS OF MAUI Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9119

Live music, Polynesian dance, and an island-inspired buffet complete with kālua pig unearthed from the imu.

Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$

OLD LĀHAINA LŪ‘AU 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0700

Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance. Open bar.

Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$

PACIFIC’O 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341

Decadent fish tacos and bahn mi sandwiches are memorable lunch fare. For dinner, try the lobster ravioli or coconutdusted mahi with Thai lemongrass-peanut sauce on black mochi rice. Spectacular oceanfront dining.

Hawai‘i Regional. BR (Sun), L, D. $$-$$$$

PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 632 Front St., Lahaina, 662-3456.

See North Shore listing.

SEE MORE LISTINGS AT MAUIMAGAZINE.NET/DININGGUIDE

G U I D E

Island-fresh mixology earned Inu the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best Cocktails. Taste for yourself—and enjoy Maui Brewing Company’s Coconut Hiwa beer-can chicken with shoestring potatoes and buttermilk dip, or Maui beerbattered tempura fish with Ocean Vodka tartar sauce.

Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D. $–$$

LEODA’S KITCHEN & PIE SHOP

D I N I N G

INU POOL BAR The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6370

G U I D E

PAILOLO BAR & GRILL

D I N I N G

The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200

PŪLEHU, AN ITALIAN GRILL The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200

Poutine, sriracha chicken wings and an Australian Wagyu Try the pappardelle Bolognese beef burger served al fresco. made with Maui Cattle American. L, H, D, N. $–$$ Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with PIONEER INN chocolate almond cake and GRILL & BAR amarena gelato.

658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636 Italian. D. $$$ Views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, ROCKSALT extended happy hours, and Sheraton Maui, 2605 Kā‘anapali well-priced dinners reel ‘em.

Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600 American. B, L, H, D. $–$$ Eclectic, globally inspired share plates combine exotic spices, PIZZA PARADISO ingredients and flavor profiles MEDITERRANEAN GRILL with fresh produce from 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Hawai‘i farms. An equally fresh Kā‘anapali, 667-2929 cocktail program features Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in Hawai‘i-produced spirits and warm pita bread with a side of house-made infusions. tabbouleh, kabob platters . . .

Kid-friendly. International. and pizza. Dine in or take out. B, H, D. R. $$–$$$ Pizza/Med. L, D. $–$$ ROY’S PRISON STREET PIZZA 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332

Kā‘anapali, 669-6999

East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more.

Italian/Pizza. L, D. $

At lunch, line up for the best burger on Maui. For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened

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‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled ginger. Save room for the signature Melting Hot Dark Chocolate Soufflé.

Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $$$$

ROYAL OCEAN TERRACE RESTAURANT Royal Lahaina Resort & Spa, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-3611

Breakfast offerings include loco moco and many eggs Benedict choices. Or go light with a delightful avocado toast topped with microgreens. Burgers and prime rib, too.

Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE Outlets of Maui, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 661-8815

Steaks worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earn the chain loyal fans. This venue doesn’t stray from the flock. Several tables overlook the ocean.

American. H, D, N. $$$$

SALE PEPE 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667

Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items such as pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta like Chef Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer.

Italian/Pizza. D. $$

SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286

Small and action-packed, D.K. Kodama’s classy sushi bar draws lines late into the night.

Try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké.

Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, R. $$$

THE SEA HOUSE RESTAURANT Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500

Start the day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit.

Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp as the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammy-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar.

Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $$$

SHAKA SUSHI 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-9911

Bet you can’t say “Shaka Sushi” five times fast—not when you’re chowing down on their tasty omelets in the a.m., bentos at lunchtime, or some of the nine specialty sushi rolls served at dinner.

Asian. B, L, H, D. $–$$

SON’Z STEAKHOUSE Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506

Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, linecaught mahimahi in lemoncaper butter.

Pacific Rim/Steak. H, D, N. $$-$$$$

G U I D E D I N I N G

STAR NOODLE 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 667-5400

Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful.

Asian. L, D. $$

SURFSIDE PIZZA 505 Front St., Lahaina, 793-2650

Local boys will love their namesake wood-fired pizza: spicy Portuguese sausage, kālua pork and Spam fired on a mozzarella cheese crust with garlic cream sauce and topped with an egg. Oh, my!

Pizza. L, D, N. $$

TAVERNA 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426

House-made pastas, agrodolce-style fish of the day, and Italian desserts that stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. . . .

Taverna is dining heaven.

Great wine, cocktails, and exotic craft beer, too!

Italian. B, L, H, D. $$–$$$

TEDDY’S BIGGER BURGERS 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111

The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Follow their food truck on Facebook.

Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $

TEPPAN-YAKI DAN Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600

Start with Oyster Dan—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko— then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate.

Japanese/Steak. D, R. $$$

THAI CHEF Old Lahaina Center, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814

This small, well-loved venue keeps fans coming back for commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce.

Thai. L, D. $

TIKI TERRACE RESTAURANT Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali,

Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234

TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-1919

Thai food by Thai chefs—100 dishes from spring rolls and pad Thai to yellow curry with seafood. Yum! Thai. $–$$

Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh, local ingredients and served up in this casual, open-air eatery.

Kid-friendly. American.

L, D. $$$

BOTERO BAR Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234

Named for Fernando Botero sculptures surrounding it, ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN the Botero Bar offers nightly SHAVE ICE entertainment and Thirsty 790 Front St., Lahaina, 877-3700 Thursdays, when a threeSecond West Maui location: cocktail tasting is just $20.

Hyatt Regency Maui Resort L, D, H, N. $ & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali

Homemade tropical-flavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart.

Kid-friendly. Treats. $

‘ŪMALU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506

Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos.

Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired

by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly.

American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D. $$$

SOUTH SHORE 1054 TOGOSHI

CAFÉ O’LEI 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368

Choose from macadamianut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites.

American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$

CHEESEBURGER GRILLE AND TAP ROOM The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8990

Hit the king crab and asparagus eggs Benedict for breakfast, head down to the beach for a swim and some sunbathing, then return for burgers and brew at this iconic restaurant.

American. B, L, H, D. $–$$

95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 868-0307

COCONUTS FISH CAFÉ

Chef Manabu’s twenty-five years as a sushi chef—two of them as head chef at Morimoto’s Maui—shine through in fresh sashimi and sushi. Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of each month.

Sushi. D. $-$$

Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979 Second South Maui location: Kama‘ole Shopping Center, 2463 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei.

AKAMAI COFFEE COMPANY 1325 S. Kīhei Rd., Unit 100, Kīhei, 868-3251

Coffee and espresso done right with beans from their own farm.

Coffee Shop. $

Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart.

American. L, D. $$

DA KITCHEN Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782

The Hawaiian plate feeds three normal appetites or one sumoAMIGO’S size eater. Plate-lunch favorites 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-9952 like chicken katsu, tempura See West Side listing. fish, and Korean mixed plate

won’t leave you wanting.

Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $

DUO Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000

Breakfast buffet, or à la carte?

Wait—did someone mention chateaubriand? Four Seasons never disappoints.

Pacific Rim. B, D. $–$$$

G U I D E

BISTRO MOLOKINI

Dine in casual comfort with the full-service menu, or challenge yourself to try all the offerings at the awardwinning Sunday brunch.

Kid-friendly. American/ Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$

D I N I N G

661-0011

FABIANI’S PIZZERIA & BAKERY 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888 Second South Shore location: 34 Wailea Gateway Place, Ste. A101, Wailea, 874-1234

Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and glutenfree pizza, spaghetti with housemade pork-sausage meatballs.

Italian/Bakery. B, L, D. $$

FERRARO’S BAR E RISTORANTE Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000

For lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle.

Italian. L, H, D. $$$$

5 PALMS RESTAURANT Mana Kai Resort, 2960 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2607

Ocean waves sweeping the shore enhance your dining experience, as Chef Raul Bermudez navigates the culinary rim of the Pacific.

Lobster eggs Benedict for breakfast, fish tacos for lunch, and seafood and pastas served with style.

Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $–$$$

FORK & SALAD 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675

Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, glutenand dairy-free options.

International. L, D. $

FOUR SEASONS LOBBY LOUNGE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000

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Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters.

Pacific Rim. H, D, N, R. $$$$

FOUR WINDS II 11 Mā‘alaea Boat Harbor Rd., Mā‘alaea, 879-8188

Breakfast, lunch and cocktails aboard this catamaran make the trip a delicious adventure.

American. B, L. $$

HONOLULU COFFEE COMPANY The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-6630

See West Side listing.

HUMBLE MARKET KITCHIN Wailea Marriott, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655

Chef Roy Yamaguchi hits it out of the ballpark with kampachi crudo, seasonal Goose Point oysters, roasted Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, tender beef short ribs, and even saimin. Perfect.

Pacific Regional. B, H, D. $–$$$

HUMUHUMU Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234

‘Aipono’s 2018 Chef of the Year, Alvin Savella turns out a piquant huli huli chicken with li hing mui rub, and ramen made for royalty: half a Konaraised lobster in a velvety red miso-coconut broth.

Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$

ISLAND GOURMET The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055

Sushi to go, deli sandwiches, plate lunches and much more.

Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $

KA‘ANA KITCHEN Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234

Start with grilled Wagyu hanger steak on green papaya salad, then charred octopus with local goat cheese.

Next, Kona abalone on creamy risotto, or a modern interpretation of chicken and waffles. There’s a curated wine list with sommeliers to guide you in pairings, and mixology at its finest.

Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$

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KIHEI CAFFE L L ; 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230

Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.?

Head down to this surfer hangout and load up on banana-mac-nut pancakes, loco moco, and a cuppa joe.

Café. B, L. $–$$

KŌ Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210

Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock”: three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection.

Pacific Rim. L, H, D. R. $$$

LEHUA LOUNGE Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234

Cocktails created with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients like lychee, liliko‘i and Hawaiian navel oranges go hand in hand with Ka‘ana Kitchen’s award-winning menu.

H. $

LINEAGE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8800

World-famous “flying saucers,” Simeon family pork and peas, and whimsical ochazuke-toasted rice guriguri. Chef Sheldon Simeon’s playful take on plantation cuisine will keep you coming back for more!

Pacific Rim. L, H, D. $-$$

LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE Kihei Kalama Shopping Center, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779

How to chill out in the Islands?

Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with plantation-era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut pudding) and macadamia-nut ice cream.

Treats. $

LONGHI’S WAILEA The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883

G U I D E

Eye-catching art and Indian relics are prelude to a menu highlighting exotic spices lovingly blended from family recipes. Lunch buffet.

Indian. L. D. $–$$

D I N I N G

KAMANA KITCHEN 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-7888

G U I D E D I N I N G

Enjoy a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemon-feta vinaigrette and anchovies.

Italian. B, L, H, D. $$$

LUANA Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210

This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kāluapork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce, and lomilomi tomato paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale.

Pacific Rim. L, H, D. $–$$

MANOLI’S PIZZA COMPANY 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499

Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppine or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna.

Italian/Pizza. L, H, D, N. $$

THE MARKET 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 879-2433

Fresh-baked bread, breakfast, salads to go, plus charcuterie.

Deli. B, L, D. $$

MATTEO’S OSTERIA 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466

Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade.

Italian. L, H, D. $$–$$$

MISO PHAT SUSHI Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476

Sushi served on site, to go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven!

Japanese. L, H, D. $$

MONKEYPOD KITCHEN 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322

Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen.

For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and banana-cream pie.

Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, N. $$

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MORIMOTO MAUI Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234

Iron Chef’s Masaharu Morimoto offers signature and Maui-centric dishes like rib-eye beef burgers and lobster roll sandwiches.

Dinner catches fire with prix fixe omakase. Handcrafted mixology and a dazzling selection of sakés.

Japanese Fusion. L, D. $$$$

MULLIGANS ON THE BLUE 100 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 874-1131

Maui’s only Irish-owned pub serves up fish and chips, grilled bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie. Or try the chopped salad with bacon, blue cheese and tomatoes.

Guinness poured properly, great music to get you footstompin’ happy, and sportsbar action, too. Sláinte!

Irish. L, H, D, N. $–$$$

NALU’S SOUTH SHORE GRILL Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650

Generous portions and local ingredients served with aloha. ‘Ahi club with smoked bacon, and fresh fish and chips will have you coming back for more. Burgers? Yes! American/Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $–$$

NICK’S FISHMARKET Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-7224

Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame.

Pacific Rim/Seafood. H, D, R. $$$$

NUTCHAREE’S THAI FOOD

PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT

Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880.

See West Side listing.

The same yummy menu that for years has hooked surfers and SANSEI SEAFOOD families in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei, RESTAURANT & too. See North Shore listing.

SUSHI BAR 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888

THE PINT & CORK

Kīhei Town Center, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004

The Shops at Wailea, 3750

See West Side listing.

Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 727-2038

The best mac-and-cheese with black truffles, shrimp and grits with chorizo, poke bowls and burgers. If it’s football season, you can score breakfast, too. Touchdown!

American. L, H, D, N. $–$$

PITA PARADISE 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 879-7177

Start with classic spinach tiropitas with caramelized onion, feta, mozzarella and tzatziki wrapped in phyllo dough; then move on to kabobs, luscious pastas and gyros. Baklava ice-cream cake, too.

Mediterranean. L, H, D. $–$$$

SARENTO’S ON THE BEACH 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555

Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach.

Italian. B, L, H, D, R. $–$$$

SEASCAPE RESTAURANT Maui Ocean Center, 192 S. Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7068

Adjacent to an awardwinning aquarium, Seascape serves harbor views with a hearty side of aloha.

Mahimahi sandwiches with fresh cabbage slaw, halfPIZZA MADNESS pound burgers and veggie 1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 270-9888 selections. Save room for This family-style restaurant Maui Mud Pie: coffee ice serves Cobb salad, hot and cream topped with fudge. cold deli sandwiches, awardAmerican. L (daily), H, winning pizza, and pasta, too. D (Sat/Sun only). $$–$$$ Italian/Pizza. L, D. $-$$ SPAGO THE RESTAURANT AT Four Seasons Resort, 3900 HOTEL WAILEA Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224

874-8000

Produce from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients you’ll find in any restaurant.

Add Chef Zach Sato’s culinary talents and a gorgeous outdoor setting, and you have a night made in heaven.

European-inspired. H, D, N. $$-$$$$

Start with fresh poke nestled in crunchy sesame-miso cones, and move on to the exotic notes of anise, cinnamon, and pineapple-caramelized pork chop. Chef Peleg will have you singing his praises.

Pacific Rim. D, N. $$–$$$

ROASTED CHILES

Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840

Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357

The flavors of Thailand never get boring when Nutcharee is cooking! Start with ‘ahi laab tartare salad, or the popular crispy fish mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls!

Thai. L, D. $–$$

Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce.

Giant margaritas!

Mexican. L, H, D. $–$$

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE The Shops at Wailea, 3750

SUNSETS BAR & GRILL, MAUI NUI GOLF CLUB 470 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 663-4220 Luscious half-pound burgers worth writing home about; try the pastrami burger with swiss cheese, house-made pickles, L.T.O. and Thousand Island dressing. Or go light with hummus, toasted pita, carrots, cucumber, cherry tomatoes and chili oil.

American. L, H, D. $–$$

TANPOPO 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., #F, Kīhei, 446-3038

SEE MORE LISTINGS AT MAUIMAGAZINE.NET/DININGGUIDE

Gracious waitstaff greet you with a steaming pot of vanilla tea. Sticky rice served in a woven Thai basket complements the flavorful red duck, lobster, or tofu curries.

Thai. L, D. $–$$

The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983

Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations?

Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, N. $–$$

ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei

See West Side listing.

CENTRAL

THREE’S BAR & GRILL

AMIGO’S

1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133

333 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 872-9525

Three’s serves eggs Benedict six ways, like seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib.

For lunch, try Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen; for dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak. Follow their food truck on Facebook.

Pacific Rim/Southwest. B, L, H, D. $$–$$$

See West Side listing.

BISTRO CASANOVA

CAFÉ O’LEI, THE DUNES AT MAUI LANI

242-6000

Friday dinner buffet and 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, Sunday brunch include poke, 877-0073 snow crab, beef prime rib, Same great fare as the South and housemade desserts.

Shore location, served beside Live music, too! Breakfast a links golf course overlooking all day, every day, with West Maui’s mountain. specialties of the house such American/Pacific Rim. as Asian fried rice and loco B, L, H, D. $$ moco with kālua pork.

B, L, D. $-$$$ DA KITCHEN Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., MARCO’S GRILL & DELI Kahului, 871-7782

See South Shore listing.

DOPE BBQ @dopebbq, 989-0042.

Locations vary, but it’s worth tracking down the “dope”: smoked meats with all the fixin’s, and fresh, killer lemonade, too.

Food Truck. L, D. $

33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 873-3650

FORK & SALAD

This downtown bistro branches out from its Upcountry sister, adding paella for two, freshcut French fries, and burrata Caprese to the menu. Best pau hana (happy hour) in Kahului.

Mediterranean. L, H, D. $–$$

Pu‘unene Shopping Center, 120 Ho‘okele St. Unit 330, Kahului.

793-3256

See South Shore listing.

KAHILI RESTAURANT Kahili Golf Course, 2500 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Wailuku,

444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-4446

Head to Marco’s for a good Reuben, meatball parmigiano, or tiramisu.

Italian. B, L, D. $$

MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-CUPS (2877)

Pastries, muffins, salads, sandwiches and wraps, and lox and bagels made to order.

Fresh-roasted coffee beans set this experience above the average. “Happy Cappy Hour” from 2 to 6 p.m.

Coffee Shop. B, L, H. $

MAUI FRESH STREATERY MauiFreshStreatery.com, 344-7929

‘Aipono’s 2019 Chef of the Year Kyle Kawakami rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations.

Food Truck. L. $

G U I D E

THAILAND CUISINE 1819 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-0839

TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT & BAR

D I N I N G

Lunch offerings include ramen, Japanese-style chicken curry, California rolls and beef burgers. Dinner goes Italian and Japanese, with pastas, flatbreads, sashimi, sushi and tempura.

Japanese Fusion. L, D. $–$$$

THE MILL HOUSE AT MAUI TROPICAL PLANTATION 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333

Dine at the coffee shop, restaurant, or weekend chef’s table, and discover some of Maui’s most creative culinary fare, from creamy coconut jook with Kula Farm green beans, to beef ragu gnocchi with thyme curd. Great desserts, too!

Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D. $–$$$

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ONLY ONO

Kahului, 777-9026

D I N I N G

Crispy-skin Chinese-style roast pork and duck, bao pork buns, plate lunches smoked brisket, too! Only delicious!

Location varies; download menu and schedule at OnlyOnoBBQ.com.

Chinese–American. L, D. $

POI BY THE POUND 430 Kele St., Kahului, 283-9381

Eat like a local. So ‘ono!

Hawaiian. B, L, D. $

A SAIGON CAFE 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560

Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot, the Vietnamese burrito, or lemongrass curry.

Vietnamese. L, D. $

SAM SATO’S 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 244-7124

This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun.

Asian. B, L. $

THAI MEE UP, Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369

Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles.

Curry, too!

Thai, Food Truck. L, D. $

TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 893-0026

See West Side listing.

TIN ROOF MAUI 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753

Sheldon Simeon of Top Chef fame builds memorable kau kau bowls filled with his savory offerings: furikakecrusted seared salmon; Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter; and a killer spicy fried chicken sandwich.

Pacific Rim. L. $

TJ’S WAREHOUSE 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 244-7311

Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and a hot line of daily specials, like potato croquettes, nishime and poke, too.

Asian. B, L. $

ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului

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Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku

See West Side listing.

UMI MAUI 1951 Vineyard St., Wailuku, 269-1802

This sushi bar brings creative presentations to old Wailuku town. Japanese. D, $–$$

O‘O FARM

NUKA

651 Waipoli Rd., Kula. Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341,

780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939

to reserve a culinary tour.

Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and fresh-roasted coffee in this bucolic setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted veggies and dessert.

American. B, L. $$$$

Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. The tempura shrimp udon is light and crispy.

Save room for black-sesame or green-tea ice cream.

Japanese. D. $$–$$$

ISLAND OF LĀNA‘I LĀNA‘I CITY BAR & GRILLE 828 Lāna‘i Ave., Lāna‘i City, 808-999-0786

The former sous chef at Aquavit—celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson’s Manhattan restaurant—Joel WAILUKU NYLOS Harrington now brings COFFEE COMPANY 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354 world flavors to Lāna‘i 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, Fresh out of the gate, this with dishes such as spicy 495-0259 fine-dining restaurant has Peruvian ceviche, cloudlike Ice cream, salads, sandwiches ULUPALAKUA RANCH been garnering rave reviews potato gnocchi, and seared and espresso, all served in a STORE & GRILL on the coconut wireless for its Vietnamese-spice-rubbed relaxed and eclectic setting.

14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., menu and casual ambiance. local venison with Asian pears Coffee Shop. B, L. $ ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561 International. L, D, R. $$$ and braised venison ragout.

Across the road from Wines and top mixology, too.

MauiWine, find great deli PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET American/Pacific Rim. BR UPCOUNTRY fare, hot-off-the-grill lamb 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030 (Sun), D. $–$$$ burger with tzatziki, grass-fed Huge slabs of fish served with CASANOVA ITALIAN venison or beef burgers. coleslaw on burger buns explain MALIBU FARM RESTAURANT & DELI Plus homestyle chili and rice, the line out the door. Order your Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i, 1 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, or kālua-pork plate lunch. ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in Mānele Bay Rd., 808-565-2000 572-0220 American. L, D. $ beside surfers and families.

Organic, farm-to-table fare Order a tartufo pizza or Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $ and a sweeping ocean view. carbonara pasta at this Start the day with quinoa Upcountry institution.

NORTH SHORE VANA oatmeal with coconut milk.

Kid-friendly. Italian/Pizza.

93 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-6004 For lunch, try the Caesar BLT B, L, D. $$ CHOICE HEALTH BAR Strawberry-papaya parfaits, salad or a burrata fruit salad 11 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia, ‘ahi eggs Benedict, and a with arugula, mango, papaya GRANDMA’S 661-7711 delicious (and photo-worthy) and candied mac nuts.

COFFEE HOUSE See West Side listing. cheese platter served with American. B, L, $$–$$$ 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, honeycomb to sweeten the 878-2140 COLLEEN’S AT deal. Originality shines at NOBU LĀNA‘I The eggs Benedict and made- THE CANNERY Vana, now serving sushi.

Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele from-scratch baked goods 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211 International. B, L, D. $–$$ Rd., 808-565-2832 are worth the trek. For lunch, Sink into a comfy booth and Celebrity chef Matsuhisa-san enjoy a hamburger with Swiss enjoy a roasted eggplant WAILUKU COFFEE CO. has handed the knife and cheese and caramelized onion. sandwich on homemade Aloha Aina Center., 810 Kokomo hashi (chopsticks) to Chef Coffee Shop. B, L, Snacks. bread. The pizza is a wellRd., Ha‘ikū, 868-3229 Marlowe Lawenko at this $–$$ loved standard.

Downtown goes “county” with a lovely open-air restaurant.

Kid-friendly. American/ second location, still serving the Prepare to be amazed.

LA PROVENCE Pizza. B, L, H, D. $–$$ same tasty salads, sandwiches, Japanese. D, R. $$–$$$$ 5355 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, ice cream and espresso.

878-1313 FLATBREAD COMPANY Coffee Shop. B, L. $ ONE FORTY Perfect croissants, fruit 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989 Four Seasons Lāna‘i, 1 Mānele tarts, and blueberry-mango Big booths, a snazzy bar Bay Rd., 808-565-2000 scones. On weekends, scene, and organic flatbreads HĀNA Begin your day with creamy muscle past long distance laden with maple-fennel baked oatmeal or grilled ‘ahi cyclists to order a Benedict or sausage and roasted veggies. BAREFOOT CAFÉ with chipotle-hollandaise eggs salmon-pesto crêpe.

Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732 Benedict. For dinner, try Chef French/Bakery. Cash only.

N. $$ Take out a breakfast like Kemar Durfield’s beef filet with B (Wed-Fri), BR (Sat-Sun), French toast or scrambled lobster-mashed potatoes; L (Wed-Fri), D (Thur-Sun). $ MAMA’S FISH HOUSE eggs with Portuguese or moi, the fish of Hawaiian 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488 sausage. Midday, get a burger royalty, with taro gnocchi, LUMERIA’S Mama’s is famous for its heart- or mahimahi plate lunch to go. papaya and pohole salad.

WOODEN CRATE stirring windward setting and Pacific Rim. B, L. $ Steak/Seafood. B, D, R. 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, Polynesian-inspired cuisine. $$–$$$$ 579-8877 Each detail evokes old-time THE PRESERVE Fresh, locally caught fish and island hospitality; in 2018, KITCHEN + BAR other healthy fare highlight this Maui institution became Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 a menu that changes daily. a James Beard nominee for Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401 Produce grown on Lumeria’s Best Restaurant.

Hāna-sourced fish and grounds are the basis for some Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, produce ground an original of the garden dishes served at RR. $$–$$$$ menu. Try a craft cocktail with this charming retreat. fresh juices and sours.

Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R. $$–$$$$ $–$$$

SEE MORE LISTINGS AT MAUIMAGAZINE.NET/DININGGUIDE

MENU RECEPTION

‘Ulu Risotto Truffle | Nasturtium Char Siu Pork Belly | Black Sesame Choy Sum Kabocha Puree | Poha Chutney Glazed ‘Ahi Miso Foie Gras Mousse Fresh Wasabi Infusion | Squid Ink Air Bread

‘EKAHI

‘AIPONO WINE DINNER

Local Beets | Oranges Maui Surfing Goat Dairy Cheese Spiced Candied Mac Nuts

‘ELUA

Citrus Cured Kampachi Roasted Garlic Gnocchi | Fennel Parmesan Cream | Caviar | Chive Oil

‘EKOLU

10/24/19

Korean Braised Beef & Bone Marrow Kim Chee Brussels | Pomegranate Pearl Onions | Taro | Kalbi Demi

‘EHĀ

HUMUHUMU AT GRAND WAILEA MAUI

Smashed Coconut Haupia Chocolate Crunch | Coconut Mousse Kiawe Crumble | Liliko‘i Coulis

*A PORTION OF PROCEEDS BENEFITS UH MAUI COLLEGE CULINARY ARTS PROGRAM AND UH MAUI FOOD INNOVATION CENTER

808-875-1234

$145 PER

PERSON*

EXCLUDING TAX AND GRATUITY

5:30PM RECEPTION 6:00PM DINNER

WINE

Advanced sommelier Charles Fredy of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants will pair the dinner with wines from the Napa and Sonoma regions. Many of the early vineyards in these regions were planted by missionaries in the 1700s, and later by European emigrants. Today, Napa and Sonoma stand tall as iconic pillars of the California wine industry.

CHEF

40 Years in H ing a rat

ii wa

Cel eb

Born and raised on Maui, CHEF ALVIN SAVELLA is an island boy at heart.

His good taste has taken him to kitchens around the world, including Bon Appétit, Paramount Studios, Riviera Country Club, and The Ritz-Carlton, Marina del Rey. Today he serves as chef de cuisine at Humuhumu, the signature restaurant at Grand Wailea Maui.

Throughout his career, Savella has set a high standard, developing the innovative, flavor-infused dishes that became his trademark. His ability to create striking plate ups and stylizing those images online captivated his fans.

Known as “The Kitchen Assassin,” Savella has nearly 70,000 Instagram followers. Diners aren’t the only ones raving. Fellow chefs voted him 2018 Chef of the Year at Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s annual ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards. Come taste what everybody’s talking about.

HELD IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, UH Maui Culinary Arts Program, and UH Food Innovation Center

197 9 | 2019

W H O W H O ʻ S

K A PA LUA S E A FO O D F EST I VA L Chef Bella Toland

Sushi Chef Jin Hosono, Chef Greg Grohowski, Toby Matsubara

Valerie Marciel, Jamie Piano, Christina Yumul, Sharon Otaguro

Donald Patz, Michelle Lee

Sherry Duong, Lahela Constantino

Janice & Chef Sheldon Simeon

Ami & Rob Mason

Chef Arnie & Elizabeth Gonzalez

Chef Bret Pafford, Chef John Bacay

Chef Lyndon Honda, Sous Chef Zachary Coltes

Alyssa & Clarence Chia

Carl Pasion, Chef Jonathan Pasion, Leah Jullianne Rodriguez

Tori Speere, Becky Speere, Maria Ljubic, Chris Speere

John & Tasha Spitzer

Charles Fredy, Debbie & Mike Jokovich, Diane & Jamie Woodburn

AIPONO DINNER K A ‘A NA K I TC H E N Noel Sanchez and Kathleen Collins

Dan Schulte and Steve Lavel

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THE MAGAZINE FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE MAUI SUBSCRIBE.MAUIMAGAZINE.NET 844-808-MAUI (6284)

C A L E N D A R

FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES Each week, a different town in Maui County hosts music, artists’ demos, children’s activities and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m. It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike. Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com

4-7

KAULUHIWAOLELE: MAUI FIBER ARTS CONFERENCE Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel

9/13–10/9

MĀLAMA WAO AKUA Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center

SEPTEMBER

DAILY

NATIVE PLANT GUIDED TOUR Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Brochures for self-guided walking tours are included with the price of admission; audio tour wands are available to rent; and docent-led group tours are $10 per person (by appointment only). All tours cover the natural history, conservation and ancient uses of native Hawaiian and Polynesian-introduced plants.

150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului 249-2798 | mnbg.org

THROUGH 10/31

ART & ACTIVISM: AN EXHIBITION ABOUT CHANGE Schaefer International Gallery, MACC This invitational features artists from Maui, Los Angeles, New York City, San Francisco and Portland who address issues including politics, environment, and gender as seen through printmaking, fiber arts, timebased media, and installation.

Related events include free gallery walks with featured artists: Abigail Romanchak on Sept. 18, 10:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m.; Kanani Miyamoto and Paul Mullowney on Oct. 16, 1:30-4:30 p.m., followed by a demonstration at the University of Hawai‘i-Maui Campus art department; Kanani Miyamoto and Paul Mullowney on Oct. 17, noon-1:15 p.m.

Master practitioners from throughout Hawai‘i share their knowledge and skills to perpetuate ancient arts. Classes for beginning to advanced levels include ‘ie‘ie (woody vine woven into baskets), kōkō (knotting a net carrier), and ‘upena (fishnet), and there will be a craft fair, displays, and a silent auction on Saturday.

7

FUR BALL Wailea Beach Resort Maui Humane Society promises a barkin’ good time during “Studio Fifty-Fur Ball: A Disco Dance Party,” featuring gourmet food, live music, silent and live auctions, and more.

5-11 p.m.

2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali

3700 Wailea Alanui, Wailea

667-0219 | Kauluhiwaolele.com

877-3680, ext. 224

5

FRANKIE VALLI & THE FOUR SEASONS A&B Ampitheater, MACC Rock & Roll Hall of Fame inductees Frankie Valli & the Four Seasons have sold more than 100 million records worldwide, and continue to tour throughout the U.S. and abroad for fans of multiple generations. Time TBA.

The Hui and East Maui Watershed Partnership collaborate on this multimedia juried exhibition to raise awareness about the importance of protecting native species and the forested upper regions of our islands’ watersheds. Gallery hours: 9 a.m.–4 p.m. Opening reception: September 13, 5–8 p.m.

2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao 572-6560 | MalamaWaoAkua.org

14

KŪ MAI KA HULA Castle Theater, MACC

MauiHumaneSociety.org

HULA MA‘I McCoy Studio Theater, MACC

One Cameron Way, Kahului

Dancers from Hawai‘i and beyond compete in modern and traditional hula. Browse Hawai‘i-made products for sale before and throughout the performance. 1 p.m.

242-7469 | MauiArts.org

One Cameron Way, Kahului

One Cameron Way, Kahului

242-7469 | MauiArts.org

242-7469 | MauiArts.org

13

14

HALEMANU McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Winner of the 2018 Nā Hōkū Hanohano Award for Island Music Album of the Year, Halemanu will deliver his trademark “jazz-infused rock-and-roll with Hawaiian soul.” 7:30 p.m.

ARTIST 2 ARTIST: HENRY KAPONO AND BLAYNE ASING McCoy Studio Theater, MACC

One Cameron Way, Kahului 242-7469 | MauiArts.org

7

LĀ ‘ULU (BREADFRUIT DAY) Maui Nui Botanical Gardens

SECOND FRIDAY LAHAINA 9/13, 10/11 FOURTH FRIDAY KĪHEI 9/27, 10/25

20

KULĀIA Kaunakakai, Moloka'i Moloka‘i Canoe Festivals presents this block party featuring local entertainment, cultural practitioners, food, crafts and more. 5–10 p.m. 658-0104 Kulaia.WixSite.com/KulaiaMolokai

20

STARRY NIGHT CINEMA A&B Ampitheater, MACC

12

Traditional procreation chants and dances often celebrate and encourage the continuation of ali‘i (chiefly) family lines.

This presentation will examine several chants as poetical expressions, and display them through hula. Parental discretion advised. 7:30 p.m.

6

FIRST FRIDAY WAILUKU 9/6, 10/4

See a free, family-friendly film under the stars, plus live music, children’s art, and food for purchase prior to the screening.

Bring a low-back beach chair or blanket. Gates open at 5:30 p.m. Showing at 7 p.m.

One Cameron Way, Kahului 242-7469 | MauiArts.org

21

ZEPMAUI X Yokouchi Pavilion & A&B Courtyard, MACC Celebrate the music of Led

CHINESE MOON FESTIVAL Zeppelin and journey back in Wo Hing Museum time with this high-energy tribCelebrate Maui’s agricultural harvest—and rich cultural history—during a traditional Chinese Moon Festival. Sample Chinese tea and moon cakes, and explore lantern making, calligraphy, music and more.

10 a.m. to 9 p.m.

858 Front St., Lahaina | 661-3262 LahainaRestoration.org

ute featuring performances by local musicians, dancing, food, and entertainment. 7 p.m.

One Cameron Way, Kahului 242-7469 | MauiArts.org

25–29

HIGH-POWERED DOUBLES TENNIS CAMP Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch

This annual ‘ulu (breadfruit) festival includes live entertainment, ‘ulu cooking demonstrations, Hawaiian cultural activities and a plant sale. 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Admission is free.

In this series, Hawai’i music icon Henry Kapono talks one-on-one with fellow Nā Hōkū Hanohano Award-winner Blayne Asing about their Hawaiian music careers, followed by an intimate jam session. 7:30 p.m.

One Cameron Way, Kahului

150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului

One Cameron Way, Kahului

3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea

Cathy Nicoloff at 264-0752.

242-7469 | MauiArts.org

249-2798 | mnbg.org

242-7469 | MauiArts.org

891-6770 | TheShopsAtWailea.com

RoyalLahaina.com

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9/18, 10/16

CONCERTS AT THE SHOPS The Shops at Wailea

Mike and Bob Bryan, a.k.a. the “Bryan Brothers,” lead this intimate camp that focuses on the art of doubles and strategies of the game. Open to players with a 3.5 to 5.0 rating.

This free outdoor music series features local award-winning musicians the third Wednesday 2780 Keka‘a Drive, Kā‘anapali. of every month. 5:30-7 p.m.

For reservations, contact

C A L E N D A R

19

6

KRIS KRISTOFFERSON & THE STRANGERS Castle Theater, MACC

RICHARD THOMPSON ELECTRIC TRIO Castle Theater, MACC This acclaimed musician is a founding member of the seminal folk-rock band Fairport Convention and was named one of Rolling Stone’s Top 20 Guitarists of All Time. 7:30 p.m.

One Cameron Way, Kahului

29

Over a decades-long career, Kristofferson has recorded twenty-eight albums and hits like “Me and Bobby McGee” and “Sunday Mornin’ Comin’ Down.”

7:30 p.m.

242-7469 | MauiArts.org

ST. JOHN’S KULA FESTIVAL 10 St. John’s Church CHRISTIAN SANDS TRIO Enjoy entertainment, food Castle Theater, MACC

27–28

THE REPUBLIK MUSIC FESTIVAL A&B Amphitheater The festival starts Friday with Steel Pulse, Trevor Hall, and the original Whalers; Saturday features Tribal Seeds, Matisyahu, and Groundation. 6 p.m.

booths, Kula produce, a silent auction and more at this Upcountry tradition. 9 a.m.–4 p.m.

8992 Kula Hwy., Kula | 878-1485 StJohnsMaui.org/KulaFestival

29

MAUI ‘UKULELE FESTIVAL A&B Amphitheater

242-7469 | MauiArts.org

9/27–10/13

THE GRADUATE Historic ‘Īao Theater

68 N. Market St., Wailuku 242-6969 | MauiOnStage.com

28

SEABURY HALL BENEFIT GOLF TOURNAMENT Wailea Emerald Course

One Cameron Way, Kahului 242-7469 | MauiArts.org

10

DEAN MARTIN—CLASSIC SONGS WITH JOHN WILT Castle Theater, MACC

One Cameron Way, Kahului

Based on the novel and iconic 1967 film, this dark comedy follows recent college grad Benjamin Braddock’s journey toward finding himself—with detours including an affair with older family friend Mrs. Robinson and a budding romance with her daughter. Presented by Maui OnStage. 7:30 p.m. Fridays & Saturdays; 3 p.m. Sundays.

Christian Sands has toured around the world as a bandleader and recently appeared as a sideman on records by Christian McBride and Gregory Porter. 7:30 p.m.

Enjoy a free outdoor concert by acclaimed musicians, ‘ukulele door prizes, and island foods for purchase. Bring your own beach chairs and mats.

1–6 p.m.

One Cameron Way, Kahului 242-7469 | MauiArts.org

OCTOBER

3–6

MAUI FAIR War Memorial Complex

Tournament benefits Seabury’s financial-aid and scholarship programs. 7:45 a.m.

Bring the whole family to one of Maui’s oldest traditions, featuring favorite local foods, entertainment, midway rides and games, livestock, horticulture, crafts and more.

100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea

Ka‘ahumanu and Kanaloa avenues

SeaburyHall.org

in Kahului. MauiFair.com

Crooner John Wilt will present a one-man show featuring Dean Martin’s greatest hits, highlighted by historical film clips of Martin’s singing career. Proceeds benefit Maui Academy of Performing Arts.

7:30 p.m.

One Cameron Way, Kahului 242-7469 | MauiArts.org

12

MAMO AT THE MACC: WEARABLE ART SHOW Yokouchi Pavilion, MACC A component of the Maoli Arts Movement, the show celebrates Hawaiian design in fabric and clothing—specifically in terms of cultural motif—in a way that makes it more than just a runway fashion show.

7:30 p.m.

One Cameron Way, Kahului 242-7469 | MauiArts.org

20

13

MAUI MARATHON Kahului to Kā‘anapali This scenic marathon starts in Kahului and leads past panoramic ocean views before ending at Whalers Village in Kā‘anapali. Not ready to run 26.2 miles? Sign up for the marathon relay, half-marathon, 10K or 5K happening the same day. Westin Maui Resort & Spa hosts a Health and Fitness Expo featuring shopping, entertainment, and seminars October 11, noon–5 p.m. and October 12, 9 a.m.–5 p.m.

MauiMarathonHawaii.com

18–20

HAWAI‘I FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL Kā‘anapali Resort

‘UKULELE WORKSHOP McCoy Studio Theater, MACC

ONE LITTLE FINGER McCoy Studio Theater, MACC

Beginning to intermediate players who can hold C, F, and G7 chords are invited to bring their own ‘ukulele for this free workshop with Roy and Kathy Sakuma. Attendees will perform at Sunday’s ‘Ukulele Festival. 10–11:15 a.m.

Presented by Mental Health Kokua, this film follows an American neurologist who uprooted her life to research music therapy in India. Guest musicians George Kahumoku Jr. and Rock Hendricks will perform. 7 p.m.

Mixing original compositions with inspired improvisations, the quartet features R. Carlos Nakai on Native American flutes and trumpet, Will Clipman on percussion, AmoChip Dabney on saxophones and keyboards, and Johnny Walker on bass. 7:30 p.m.

One Cameron Way, Kahului

One Cameron Way, Kahului

One Cameron Way, Kahului

242-7469 | MauiArts.org

242-7469 | MauiArts.org

242-7469 | MauiArts.org

HawaiiFoodAndWineFestival.com

28

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5

R. CARLOS NAKAI JAZZ QUARTET McCoy Studio Theater, MACC

One Cameron Way, Kahului 242-7469 | MauiArts.org

23

BUSINESS FEST King Kamehameha Golf Club, Waikapū Maui Native Hawaiian Chamber of Commerce’s annual Business Fest features speakers, networking, and an exhibition of locally owned businesses at this all-day event.

2500 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū mnhcoc.org

25

OKAIDJA AFROSO Castle Theater, MACC

One Cameron Way, Kahului

James Beard Award-winning chefs Alan Wong and Roy Yamaguchi join a Who’s Who of the culinary world in cooking demos, tastings and wine pairings. The fun starts Friday with Roy’s Golf Classic on the Royal Kā‘anapali; followed Saturday by “Wicked Cocktails, Wicked Plates,” a dinner prepared by thirteen renowned chefs at Sheraton Maui Resort. On Sunday, Hyatt Regency hosts “Pasta la Vista,” a six-course dinner by chefs from Hawai‘i, California, and New York City.

12

This Scandinavian piano trio is acknowledged as one of the world’s finest. 3 p.m.

Ghana-born Afroso is a singer, guitarist, percussionist, and dancer deeply connected to the musical traditions of Africa.

Concert includes a dance floor.

7:30 p.m.

One Cameron Way, Kahului 242-7469 | MauiArts.org

TRIO CON BRIO COPENHAGEN Castle Theater, MACC

242-7469 | MauiArts.org

31

HALLOWEEN IN LAHAINA

Front Street closes to vehicular traffic as ghosts, goblins and other masked partygoers come out for a night of ghoulish fun. VisitLahaina.com

Email your event to Calendar@ MauiMagazine.net, or submit it online at MauiMagazine.net/ maui-events. Listings for MNKO’s November/December 2019 print edition must be received

by September 13. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.

Haw aiia n A i rline s

Mad e i n Mau i Co unty

FESTI VA L

F R I D A Y, N O V E M B E R 1 • E XC LU O p e n i n g c e re m o n i e s & f r e e p u S I V E S H O P P I N G D AY pus, food t r u c ks , p rize dr aw in

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D A Y P E R E E C T

FREE TIME

STORY BY L E H I A A PA N A | ILLUSTRATION BY C . M . B U T Z E R

Exploring our island paradise doesn’t need to break the bank.

Ringing up at around $40 per person, this itinerary explores cheap eats and free activities that don’t skimp on the fun.

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Bamboo Grille

8 A.M. Island favorites shine

at Bamboo Grille, a tiny, offthe-beaten-path discovery that serves familiar dishes with a local accent. The banana macadamia-nut pancakes are legendary, and the fried rice always mouthwatering, but the loco moco—which is served eleven ways—is the star of the menu. Eaters with sumo-sized appetites will appreciate the generous portions. 1063 Lower Main St., Ste. C226, Wailuku 8 a.m.–9 p.m. daily | 419-6132 Facebook.com/BambooGrille

Wailuku Street Art

9:30 A.M. Local artists have taken to the streets of Wailuku as part of PangeaSeed Foundation’s worldwide public-art project, creating more than a dozen murals in this historic town, all based on the theme

Sea Walls: Mauka Makai.

The phrase translates as “from the mountains to the ocean,” and these statement pieces address environmental issues relevant to our island home.

Most of the murals are within walking distance of each other.

One outlier is at Fiesta Time on Lower Main Street, across from Bamboo Grill. Start there, then drive to Wailuku’s main business district surrounding Market and Main streets, and tour at your own pace. For a list of murals and their locations, visit SmallTownBig.org/art.

808 Plates Maui

NOON The brothers behind 808 Plates Maui food truck are also fishermen, so they’re serious about serving the finest fish. Kainoa and Rycin Pavao transform sashimi-grade cuts into dishes like garlic ‘ahi katsu, while their fresh poke will have you wondering why you ever bothered with the frozen stuff.

Concerts at The Shops Located in the Lowe’s parking lot, this to-go spot is a favorite of hungry construction workers.

214 Ho‘okele St., Kahului | 10:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Monday–Friday

Kealia Pond

5 P.M. Nā Hōkū Hanohano Award winners and local music icons take to the mic at the outdoor Concerts at The Shops, 5:30–7 p.m. the third Wednesday of each month at The Shops at Wailea. Nā Hōkū Awards are Hawai‘i’s answer to the Grammys—it’s a wonder shows of this caliber are free, and you’d be wise to seize the opportunity. Arrive early for the best seats. Parking validation is $5 on concert evenings and benefits a different charity each month. 3750

1 P.M. Spanning 700 acres, the Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge is home to two endangered Hawaiian waterbirds—‘alae ke‘oke‘o (Hawaiian coot) and ae‘o (Hawaiian stilt)—and hosts hundreds of migratory species throughout the year. Start at the visitor center, where you can get a lay of the land, hear current bird counts, and borrow binoculars and bird identification cards.

The entrance road to the visitor center and refuge is at milepost 6 on Maui Veterans Hwy. Refuge hours are 7:30 a.m.–4 p.m. Monday–Friday. Visitor center is open 11 a.m.–3 p.m.

Monday, 9 a.m.–3 p.m.

Tuesday–Friday, closed on federal holidays. Kealia Coastal

7:30 P.M. Island Gourmet proves you can eat well on a budget, even in posh Wailea. Located in The Shops at Wailea, this well-stocked grocery doubles as an eclectic eatery. From burgers to musubis, sushi to sandwiches, dinner here is a wise move for your taste buds and your wallet.

Boardwalk is open sunrise–7 p.m. daily | 875-1582; fws.gov/refuge/ Kealia_Pond/

3750 Wailea Alanui, Wailea | 6:30 a.m.–10:30 p.m. daily | 874-5055 IslandGourmetHawaii.com

Wailea Alanui, Wailea | 891-6770 TheShopsAtWailea.com

Island Gourmet Market

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