Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine January-February 2020 by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine

The Great

CHOCOLATE CHALLENGE

JANUARY–FEBRUARY 2020

LUXURY ISSUE Ni‘ihau Lei TREASURE FROM THE

“FORBIDDEN ISLAND”

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CONTENTS 40

LUXURY ISSUE: FEATURES

ADVENTURE Thirty-hour Getaway How do you pack a luxe vacation into less than a weekend? The answer is an island-hop away.

Story by Teya Penniman

HAWAIIAN SOUL The Flowers of Ni‘ihau From tiny shells that wash ashore on this forbidden island come priceless treasures.

Story by Sky Barnhart

SPA RETREATS In Pursuit of Pleasure With Maui offering no shortage of inspired treatments, it may be hard to choose. Let us help.

ISLAND BUSINESS Sweet Charity Philanthropy is at the center of each piece of Maui Ku'ia Estate Chocolate.

61 AT HOME

Modern Marvel A contemporary Wailea

ON THE COVER

COVER: Pa‘ia: On the road to Hāna. Maui's premier time-lapse photographer, Chris Archer, captures the indescribable beauty, warmth, and magic of Pa‘ia's sunset in a tranquil Hawaiian sky.

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residence is a seaside sculpture.

Story by Sarah Ruppenthal

BARBARA KRAFT/FOUR SEASONS

Story by Becky Speere

NOW OPEN The Shops at Wailea

CONTENTS

DEPARTMENTS

BEHIND THE SCENES

@MAUINŌKA‘OI

It takes a lot of talents to make

Tag, We're It!

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

Our fans get social.

Here’s what a few participants had to say.

GREAT FINDS

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

All That Glitters

by Diane Haynes Woodburn

Make 2020 your golden year.

Compiled by Shanoaleigh Marson

TALK STORY: DAY IN THE LIFE

108

Wild Blue Yonder

WHO’S WHO

A renowned whale photographer on capturing

Seen making the scene on Maui.

the big picture.

110

Story by Kate Ambrose

DINING

HOT LIST What’s happening where, when, and with whom.

114

Chef ’s Table Nights: Fond & Ka‘ana Kitchen

Winter pyrotechnics, compliments of deity Lono.

PERFECT DAY

A pair of intimate and memorable

Story by Shannon Wianecki

Adventure and Luxury

foodie adventures.

Follow our local guide's Kapalua itinerary.

Story by Becky Speere

Story by Lehia Apana

TALK STORY: IN SEASON Divine Fireworks

DINING FEATURE

DINING HIGHLIGHTS The Great Chocolate Challenge Top chefs spill the cacao beans on four scrumptious dessert recipes. Compiled by Becky Speere

88 MAUI MIXOLOGY Tasty Temperance The Lobby Lounge's free-spirited mocktails— both delicious and good for you.

91 Dining Guide A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island.

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LEFT: FLIP NICKLIN; TOP: MIEKO HORIKOSHI

Story by Becky Speere

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Publisher

Diane Haynes Woodburn

Group Publisher Michael Haynes Creative Director Paul B. Morris

Senior Editor Rita Goldman

EDITORIAL

Guest Editor Angela Gaudioso Managing Editor Lehia Apana Dining Editor Becky Speere Home & Garden Editor Sarah Ruppenthal Great Finds Editor Shanoaleigh Marson Website Manager Adelle Lennox

Associate Art Director Shanoaleigh Marson

Account Manager Brooke Tadena Advertising Sales Representative Felix Sunny D’Souza Advertising Sales Representative Elisa Jae Advertising Sales 808-242-8331

ART

MARKETING & ADVERTISING

CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION

Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. Controller Kao Kushner Subscriptions & Office Manager Nancy Wenske NEWSSTAND SALES & CIRCULATION

Subscription Inquiries toll free: 844-808-MAUI (6284) or visit Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net National MagNet, National MagNet, Disticor Magazine Distribution Services

Hawai‘i MagNet In Room Maui Circulation CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Lehia Apana, Kat Ambrose, Sky Barnhart, Teya Penniman, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere, Shannon Wianecki CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Mieko Horikoshi, Shanoaleigh Marson, Ryan Siphers, Phillip Sowers CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR

C. M. Butzer E-mail Address Info@MauiMagazine.net Moving? Send address changes to Haynes Publishing Group, 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793. Please note: If the post office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, Haynes Publishing has no further obligation, unless we receive a corrected address within one year of that notification.

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, and Eating & Drinking 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; 808-242-8331. ISSN 2473-5299 (print)| ISSN 2473-5469 (online) ©2019 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly U.S. subscriptions $21; Canadian subscriptions $29; foreign subscriptions $40. Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net

Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi—an environmental leader in the industry whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

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C O N T R I B U T O R S

You probably won't believe this, but I started writing this story in my head about five years ago after an overnighter at the Valkirs' home. We ambled downhill to Gunars' greenhouse where he grew twofoot-tall cacao seedlings. At that time, I believe there were about three hundred trees ready to plant at the Ku‘ia Estate Cacao Farm. Little did I know that 20,000 would become the final count! Oh, and did I say I LOVE CHOCOLATE? —Becky Speere “Sweet Charity,” page 54

From the moment I got word that I was to speak with National Geographic photographer and marine biologist, Flip Nicklin, my brain was buzzing with questions. Flip's passion for both photographing and researching whales was crystal clear as soon as we started chatting. As you might imagine, he's a pretty interesting guy—with a few fantastic whale tales to share—and I was lucky enough to hear one firsthand. —Kat Ambrose “Day In The Life,” page 26

BEHIND THE SCENES

What did it take for you to get this story?

It pays to be flexible. Magazine deadlines are often at least a month out, leaving time to sandwich a new story into other obligations. The Lāna‘i adventure surfaced as a surprise opportunity: could I fit in an overnight getaway to the secluded island— next week? My enthusiastic “yes” showed me how our beloved islands always have something new to offer and that even a short island-hop can seem like a world away. —Teya Penniman

C.M. Butzer is an award-winning illustrator, cartoonist, and printmaker. He developed his talents in Seattle and Italy. Butzer then moved to NYC to get his MFA at the School of Visual Arts. After thirteen years in Brooklyn, he moved to the Big Island to learn how to live with Aloha. —C.M. Butzer “Perfect Day,” page 114

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N O T E P U B L I S H E R ' S

“I

t’s soup weather,” I announce happily. My husband and I, along with friends from next door, are taking a walk through our neighborhood in the crisp, early evening air. “Yep, time to get the parkas out,” my husband smiles. Sounds crazy for Hawai‘i? At 4,000 feet, we in Kula get a real winter (at least by Hawai‘i standards) and it’s wonderful. Temperatures are downright chilly and the sky is radiant, splashed in wide brushstrokes of pink and orange as a golden sun begins her descent. I pick up a red leaf that skips across my shoe and show it off to the group, hugging my flannel shirt a little closer to brace against the sweet, cool breeze. As we approach the last stretch up our driveway, I’m already taking mental inventory of soup ingredients— and come up short. No barley, I think. Darn. Although this is our annual Luxury Issue, I can’t help but be reminded that many folks are coming up more than a little short this season. And yet, like the gorgeous country sunset, there is something inexplicably reassuring, even hopeful, in the air. “It’s different this year,” my neighbor shares. Instead of exchanging extravagant gifts this past Christmas, each member of her extended family wrote a check to their favorite charity. “We raised about $1,000,” she boasts, “and I feel great.” We at Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi feel pretty great, too. Perhaps the fresh, pleasing scent in the air has something to do with living in the finite space of an island, where the simple truth is—we need each other. In this Luxury Issue, we offer plenty of ways to have fun. And yes, we serve up some extravagances to indulge in—from living like royalty with a splendid escape to Lāna‘i, to experiencing a lavish spa day of your dreams, or delighting in the precious treasure of a Ni‘ihau shell lei. If artful home design is more your style, you can take our in-book tour through one of Hawai‘i’s most gorgeous beachside residences. You might also opt to join our chocolate challenge—a delicious diversion this side of heaven. In this issue, and perhaps sweetest of all, we delight in bringing you the story behind the confection. While manufacturing what is arguably the most indulgent ingredient on Earth, Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate offers each of us the joy of giving back to community, with every blissful bite. Theirs is an inspired business story and a thoroughly satisfying recipe for success.

SOUP NIGHT Celebrating the Luxury of Simplicity and Sharing.

From my kitchen, I see a beautiful new moon brightening the night sky. I still don’t have barley. But I do have leftover turkey, some carrots, onions, celery… “There’s kale in the garden,” my husband says. “I have mushrooms and split peas,” my neighbor adds. I’m excited now. I’m reminded of the European fable, “Stone Soup.” A hungry, disheveled traveler claims he can feed a village from just a stone and a pot of water. He immerses the stone in the big boiling pot and tastes it. “Hmm,” he says to fascinated yet unbelieving villagers. “But it needs just a bit of parsnip.” “I have a parsnip,” someone volunteers; “I have a carrot,” says another. One by one the offerings of the townspeople continue. Until, indeed, there is soup enough to feed the entire village—all from one stone, and the magical ingredient of sharing. Luxury is in the eye and heart of the beholder, and it seems to boil down to the same, simple lesson. Whether it’s a chance to stay at a luxury hotel, to savor some decadent chocolate, or the pleasure of preparing a hearty soup—it’s really about appreciating what you have, and with whom you get to share it. Wishing you a sweet New Year, filled with friends, family, and the luxury of sharing. Soup anyone?

Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

MAUIMAGAZINE.NET

JAMIE WOODBURN

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TALK STORY L I F E T H E I N D A Y

Renowned photographer Flip Nicklin documents marine life behavior and social patterns, and he's among the first to capture images of humpbacks by swimming among them in the deep.

WILD BLUE YONDER

Underwater lensman on getting the big picture. NAME Flip Nicklin TITLE Marine Wildlife Photographer & Marine Biologist UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL Charles “Flip” Nicklin has had a lot of incredible underwater experiences. He’s made more than 5,500 dives, engaging with twenty-eight species of whales, dolphins, and porpoises. One of his dives stands fins and tails above the rest: an encounter in the early 2000s that put him eye-to-eye with a male humpback. Flip was in the waters between Lāna‘i and Kaho‘olawe when the whale circled, then swam straight towards him. The cetacean 26

MAUIMAGAZINE.NET

propped Flip up on the back of its pectoral fin and brought the astonished human in for a closer look. After what seemed a very long moment, Nicklin swam off the whale’s fin and watched it take a breath at the surface, then dive back into the deep. Amazingly, Flip kept filming the whole time. “I don’t know what I was thinking,” he says. “I was just trying to stay calm and shoot what I was seeing.” DEVELOPING A PASSION Nicklin was born into a diving family. (The nickname “Flip” came from a character in the World War II-era action-adventure comic strip “Terry and the Pirates.”) He grew up working at his father’s

dive shop in San Diego, and was helping to teach diving classes at fourteen years old. Nicklin Sr. was also an underwater cinematographer, so it would seem a slam dunk for Flip to follow in his dad’s swim fins. But it almost didn’t happen. “I was around my father’s world of photographers since I was fifteen,” he recalls. “It looked interesting, but didn’t seem like a realistic occupation.” In 1976, Flip met National Geographic photographers Bates Littlehales and Jonathan Blair, and was offered a job as a diving assistant on an expedition. “I had just been in a bicycle accident, and used the settlement money to buy an underwater camera system. I spent three months

RALPH PACE

S T O R Y B Y K AT A M B R O S E

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine presents

THE 2020 ‘AIPONO RESTAURANT AWARDS:

“HUNGER GAMES” WHO WILL BE OUR CHAMPIONS? LET THE VOTES BEGIN!

In Hawaiian, ‘ai means “to eat” and pono means “excellence.” The ‘Aipono Gala promotes excellence and distinction among the island’s most talented chefs and leading restaurants. Awards are given in 40 categories as voted by you, our readers. Join the festivities as we celebrate our culinary stars . . . with gusto! The ‘Aipono Gala and ‘Aipono Wine Dinner series benefit UH–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program.

SAVE THE DATE

AND DRESS FOR THE GAMES FRIDAY, APRIL 3 THE RITZ-CARLTON KAPALUA LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT ‘AIPONO AWARD HONOREE PETER MERRIMAN

MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI » SEP-OCT 2014

T H E

L I F E

TALK STORY

CAN’T MAKE IT TO WHALE TALES? Immerse yourself in Flip Nicklin photography at Maui Ocean Center’s Humpbacks of Hawai‘i Exhibit and Sphere. Innovative technology including 4K video, 3D active glasses, and 7.1 surround sound, make this “underwater” experience a must see.

SEEING EYE-TO-EYE The cetacean propped Flip up on the back of its pectoral fin and brought the astonished human in for a closer look.

Whale of a Tale The 14th annual “Whale Tales,” presented by Whale Trust Maui, takes place February 14–17 at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua. The event attracts marine enthusiasts and experts alike to share the latest research on humpbacks and their habitat through talks and presentations, whale watches, and more. For details, visit WhaleTales.org

MAUIMAGAZINE.NET

MAKING SURE IT ALL CLICKS Preparing for a photo shoot requires careful planning—and being ready to jump in the water the moment opportunity strikes. The goal is to capture the photos that tell the story, and to do so without disturbing the whales or changing their behavior. Living to tell that tale means playing it safe every dive—humpbacks can grow up to sixty feet long and weigh up to forty tons. Federal law prohibits anyone, whether on or in the water, from coming within 100 yards of a humpback. As a marine photographer, Flip has to receive authorization from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Association to get closer than that to a whale. And he has good reason to do so. “It’s not about swimming with whales,” he says. “It’s about telling the story.” Web exclusive: Watch Flip Nicklin’s close encounter with a humpback at MauiMagazine.net/whale-encounter.

FLIP NICKLIN

D A Y

I N

working in the Northwest Hawaiian [Island] chain, watching photographers work, and got a couple of pictures published in National Geographic.” Flip’s first story for the magazine, published in 1982, was on Maui’s humpback whales. He has since published several books of marine photography. His passion for whales is evident not only in his photographs, but through Whale Trust Maui, which he cofounded with scientists Meagan Jones, PhD and Jim Darling, PhD. The nonprofit’s mission is equal parts research and education, with the goal of encouraging marine conservation. Nicklin is part of Whale Trust’s research-photography team. He and videographer Jason Sturgis document— through photos and video—the behavioral and social patterns of Hawaiian humpback whales, one of the least-understood areas of whale research. Their work is key to Whale Trust’s understanding of whale songs, relationships, and more.

SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS

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TALK STORY S E A S O N I N

The clouds over Maui are rarely cold enough to spark a lightning storm. But just a few times a year, Lono, the Hawaiian god associated with lively weather, treats us to his dazzling bolts and lush, soaking rains.

DIVINE FIREWORKS

Winter’s pyrotechnics are compliments of deity Lono.

ono, the Hawaiian god of agriculture and fertility, is associated with all sorts of feisty weather. He rules over the wet winter months, when heavy rains drench Hawai‘i’s mountains and saturate the lo‘i kalo (taro patches). According to old chants, Lono’s voice can be heard in the crash of boulders tumbling down ravines during flash floods. He manifests his magnificence in rainbows hovering on the horizon, in thumping surf, whirlwinds, and waterspouts. His particular calling cards are thunderclaps and lightning bolts— both relatively rare phenomena in Hawai‘i. Fewer than thirty thunderstorms rattle Hawaiian skies each year. These storms typically transpire during Kā‘elo 30

MAUIMAGAZINE.NET

and Kaulua, traditional lunar months that roughly correspond to January and February. This is the best time to scan the heavens for flashes of Lono i ka uila— Lono of the lightning. This dazzling display occurs when a cloud’s ice particles collide and build up electrical charges. In order for a cloud to accumulate ice particles, it needs to be at least 20,000 feet high. Hawaiian clouds usually fall far short of that. “Most of the time our clouds only grow to eight to ten thousand feet,” says Ian Morrison, a meteorologist who studies Hawai‘i’s weather for the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Every so often a cold front rolls through, pushing clouds up-

wards and creating the stage for a natural pyrotechnic show. The odds of getting zapped by Hawaiian lightning are especially slim—but it has happened. An article published in 1857 in the Hawaiian-language newspaper Ka Hae Hawaii describes how, during an intense thunderstorm in Punalu‘u, a bolt of lightning shot through a woman’s house and struck her while she slept. More recently, in June 2019, the National Weather Service recorded hundreds of cloud-to-ground strikes on the island of O‘ahu. Three people were hit by lightning on a single day! Luckily, Lono usually keeps his distance and most bolts strike far out to sea.

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TYLUN PANG - EXECUTIVE CHEF Tylun Pang grew up in Hawai’i enjoying the freshest island ingredients in his father and grandmother’s Chinese kitchen. With a culinary career spanning over four decades taking him throughout Asia, South America and across the United States as a chef with Westin Hotels, Chef Pang returned home to Hawai’i in 1996 to lead the culinary programs at Fairmont Kea Lani in Wailea, Maui. Pang oversees the luxury resort’s five dining venues and one market, banquet and catering as well as, developed the concept for the resort’s signature restaurant - Kō. Many recognize Chef Pang for his participation in the Best Hotel Chefs of America Series at the James Beard House in New York, as well as his dedication to local agriculture, the island’s culinary school and mentorship of future chefs.

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I T ! W E ' R E T A G ,

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Forever my muse @tannedandtraveled #mauimodel #mauimuse #tannedandtraveled #anythingbutbasic #mauiphotographer #mauilifestyle #hawaiifashion #moody #portraits #blackandwhite #tropical

Motherhood. Every day brings the inevitable challenges, but it all goes away with their smile. I love motherhood and everything it's taught. This mural speaks to me, and I couldn't resist capturing it and her cute keiki @mommy. diary as we took our Ohana session walk a couple of blocks from @leilanihousemaui #babyfever #maternity #babylover #mauihawaii #allthebrightplaces #allthefeels

@MAUIMAG

It’s official: Our readers are as obsessed with Maui as we are. Follow @MauiMag on Instagram, then tag us in your photos, and we’ll share some of our favorites. #MauiMag

@TAYMJACKS Around and around we go. #hawaii #explorehawaii #hawaiitrip #hawaiiblogger #islandvibes #shakaguide #havealohawilltravel #gohawaii #hawaiilife #hawaiiliving #luckywelivehawaii #mauifair

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@KRISTA.GRANTMYRE "The ocean stirs the heart, inspires the imagination and brings eternal joy to the soul." –Robert Wyland. Exactly two months until the Grantmyres head back to Maui! #lethawaiihappen #maui #wanderlust #aloha #documentyourdays #lifeofadventure #outdoorfamilies #livealoha #visitmaui #royallahaina #myalohatimes #havealohawilltravel

@SANDYCRY One of the best sunrises ever...#hawaii #maui #mauihawaii #haleakala #haleakalasunrise #sunrise #clouds #volcano #hawaiistagram #aloha #nps #hawaiilove #love #passion #travelholic #hawaiisbestphotos #mauistyle

Advertorial

The Art of Cassie Pali Beauty and adventure that will take your breath away

assie Pali is not your standard photographer. She launched her career eighteen years ago, creating family portraits and wedding photography that captured intimate and candid moments with skill and an artistic eye. When a 2014 knee injury and subsequent surgeries impaired her ability to walk, Cassie shifted her focus to the underwater world. An avid surfer and big-wave photographer, she looked to the ocean for comfort and healing. She began to incorporate adventure weddings and “trash the dress” shoots in which newlyweds literally “took the plunge” under the waves.

Loving the challenge, Cassie soon added mermaids, hula dancers, and flowing gowns to her stunning portfolio, capturing movement underwater with surreal and dreamy artistry. She received the honor of having her image “Looking Glass” selected for Art Maui 2019 and exhibited in the Schaefer International Gallery. Her images have been featured in galleries around the island of Maui, and earned her a teaching position with the Professional Photographers of America. To see Cassie Pali’s art and photography above and below the waterline online, go to www.cassiepali.com and www.creativeislandvisions.com

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SHOP

Maui

Put yourself in an island state of mind and treat yourself from head to toe . . . with a little help from these first-rate Maui shops. Hawaii’s Heritage Jewelers As a father-and-daughter team with 40-plus years of experience, we handcraft traditional Hawaiian heirloom jewelry. We’re excited to share our family’s heritage in creating each of your custom pieces. 808-762-2510, Tyra@HawaiisHeritageJewelers.com, IG: @HawaiisHeritageJewelers, HawaiisHeritageJewelers.com

HolidayandCompany HolidayandCompany is a charming boutique in the heart of Makawao town in the historic K. Matsui Building. There you will find unique and innovative clothing designers, leather goods, and jewelry. 3681 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 808-572-1470, HolidayAndCo@gmail.com, IG: @HolidayAndCompany, HolidayandCoMaui.com

Kipa Beach Stylish enough to display in a bathroom and compact enough to pack in a day or travel bag, this is one of the most versatile and comfortable towels you’ll ever get your hands on. Aloha@KipaBeach.com, IG: @KipaBeach, KipaBeach.com

‘Alohi Maui Illuminate your skin with island-crafted conscious skincare from ‘Alohi Maui. Rainwater Essence and Golden Oil work together to reveal radiance with locally sourced, nutrient-rich, organic ingredients. Uncompromising quality, waste-free reusable packaging. Order or find retailers at alohimaui.com. Contact alohi@alohimaui.com.

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Designs By Shirley Hawai‘i Shirley Lecomte offers custom designs of personalized family heirlooms. Her signature “808” piece is available in 14K gold with diamonds, 14K gold, and sterling silver. Available at Sargent’s Fine Jewelry, 802 Front St., Lahaina, 808-276-3811, ShirleyLecomte@yahoo.com

RALPH PACE / NMFS PERMIT #19225

14th Annual Whale Tales Show your love for whales and their ocean home this Valentine's Day weekend at the 14th Annual Whale Tales. Learn from world-renowned researchers, view stunning underwater photography and video of whales, explore immersive hands-on educational opportunities, and enjoy benefit whale watches with the experts. February 14 through 17 at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua | WhaleTales.org | 808-572-5700

Sargent’s Fine Jewelry Make your Maui memories last forever with one of these stunning, 18k gold mini Lamello diamond pendants, representing our glistening ocean waves. We feature more than twenty-seven local artists, ensuring that you’ll find some of the most unique handmade jewelry in Hawai‘i. 802 Front Street, Lahaina, 808-667-2131, SargentsFineJewelry.com

The Face Place Skincare Clinic At The Face Place, we are changing people’s lives—one face at a time. We offer exclusive corrective and nurturing facial services customized for each individual to provide optimal results. Jeannie Pereira, owner. Wailea Town Center, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., B-103, Wailea, 808-875-1000, Info@MauiFacePlace.com, MauiFacePlace.com

Forever H and A Maui Owner Romela Agbayani designs and sews these Hawaiian dresses for 18-inch American Girl dolls, along with matching dresses for girls of all ages. 658 Front St., Lahaina; Saturdays at the Maui Swap Meet, Kahului, 808-661-1760, FB/IG: @ForeverHAndAMaui, ForeverHAndAMaui.com

F I N D S

Always In Bloom

G R E A T

Italian jeweler Marco Bicego’s 18K yellow-gold Lunaria Collection pays homage to the delicate shape of its floral namesake. Available at Baron & Leeds, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 874-4900; and Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway, Kā‘anapali, 661-6806; BaronAndLeeds.com

ALL THAT GLITTERS Make 2020 your golden year.

Dialed In

Well Rounded

Beach, pool, or date night—take your pick. Liquid Sunshine’s handmade 14K gold-filled hammered hoops with lustrous pearls and sparkly chains are perfect for any occasion. $80 at I Love Hana Art Boutique, 8 Mill Place, Hāna; and Etsy.com/Shop/ LiquidSunshineJewels, 344-6336, IG: LiquidSunshineJewels

With a corrosion-resistant Oystersteel case and a silver dial with 18K gold hour markers, the Rolex Datejust 36 is built to impress and stand the test of time. $6,800 at Tourneau, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 874-4900; and Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway, Kā‘anapali, 661-6806; Tourneau.com

Small Wonder

A Winning Pair

Part of Maui Jim’s Manchester United Club Collection, Compass polarized aviators are game-day ready with gold-to-silver dual mirror lenses and Manchester United’s devil logo emblazoned on the left temple. $349.99 at Maui Jim Sunglasses, 721 Waine‘e Street, Lahaina, 661-8841, MauiJim.com

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Only Good Juju’s Mini Lovely clutch fits all of your daily essentials, or can be used as a cosmetic bag or jewelry pouch. 9”x6” with a 2” box bottom. Available in light, black, and coral floral. $42. 264-2185. OnlyGoodJuju.com or OnlyGoodJujuCompany@gmail.com

experience the

Enjoy the magical enchantment of Honua‘ula. Meet Pele, the goddess of fire, and Kananaka, the mermaid of Maui, and step back into a journey filled with traditional chants and hula bringing the history of our island home to life.

Oceanfront at Grand Wailea, A Waldorf Astoria Resort • Evening Shows Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday & Saturday • Check in at 4pm, pre-show begins at 5pm • All you can eat buffet dinner • Hosted Bar • Imu Ceremony • Premium & Standard Seating *Dates subject to change. Advance reservations required.

Reservations: 808.875.1234 ext. 2500 | www.grandluau.com

A P O LY N E S I A N F E A S T & S H O W A musical and culinary journey to Hawai‘i, Aotearoa, Tahiti and Samoa.

AOTEAROA Land of the long white cloud, Aotearoa – New Zealand, is home to the Maori people.

SAMOA “The cradle of Polynesia,” literally the sacred center of its fiery soul.

HAWAI‘I We begin in our beautiful island home of Hawai‘i with our chants, songs and hula .

TAHITI The land of intrigue and romance, has beckoned explorers from around the world.

667-LELE (5353) • Toll-free: 1-866-244-5353 (LELE) 505 Front Street, Lahaina, Maui, Hawai‘i W W W. F E ASTAT L E L E .CO M

BARBARA KRAFT/FOUR SEASONS

LUXURY ISSUE

EYE APPEAL

A short stroll from the resort lies Hulupoâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;e Bay, whose protected waters teem with abundant marine life, including a local pod of spinner dolphins.

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IT Story by TEYA PENNIMAN

TH R YHOUR GETAWAY HOW DO YOU PACK A LEISURELY, LUXURIOUS VACATION INTO LESS THAN A WEEKEND? THE ANSWER IS AN ISLAND-HOP AWAY.

12:45pm

The sharp ridges and valleys of West Maui recede and soften as Expedition’s passenger ferry crosses the ‘Au‘au Channel to Lāna‘i. The day is gloriously clear—each of Maui Nui’s islands joins the panorama, with Hawai‘i Island emerging from a lei of clouds to the southeast. Our destination, Mānele Bay, is tucked around the south side of Lāna‘i, appearing like a surprise along the shoreline. As we approach the small-boat harbor, three dolphins pass by the ferry and a sea turtle surfaces. It’s a perfect welcome for the staycation my husband, Jay, and I will have on Lāna‘i.

FRAGRANCE OF PARADISE

Inhale, relax, and unwind on pristine Lāna‘i at Four Seasons' Five Diamond resort, whose sumptuous suites face the secluded island's sprawling southeastern coast. Guests can enjoy a guided stroll through lush botanical gardens or stop to “talk story” with Uncle Bruno, the resort’s aviarist, and his feathered rescuebird friends. Opposite: Opt for a leisurely way to see Lāna‘i and clip-clop around the charming town on a horse-drawn carriage ride arranged by the Stables at Kō'ele.

2pm

Arriving at Four Seasons, we’re impressed by the resort’s transformation since our last visit. The previous mélange of Mediterranean and Asian architectural styles has morphed into an aesthetic that truly conveys a sense of place. The walls and floors capture the umber sand and red-earth tones of the island. Whalevertebrae sculptures and wall insets of giant shells remind us that the ocean is just steps away. The gardens abound in tropical flora. I’d be happy lounging on the lānai for a few hours, gazing out to sea, but our scheduled carriage ride leaves just enough time for some pūpū (appetizers) and beverages at Four Seasons’ Malibu Farm restaurant before heading up to the Stables at Kō‘ele.

PREVIOUS PAGE: PETER VITALE/FOUR SEASONS. THIS PAGE: BARBARA KRAFT/FOUR SEASONS. OPPOSITE: PHILLIP SOWERS

4pm

“We cause the only traffic jam on Lāna‘i,” jokes Mary Klein, the woman at the reins, as a pickup truck waits to pass our horsedrawn carriage clip-clopping its way around Dole Park, the center of Lāna‘i City. “We sometimes cause a two- to threecar backup.” Our slow-and-steady power source is Ben, an English Shire draught horse brought to Lāna‘i with brother Pete to launch the leisurely excursion. Some 3,100 people reside in this “city” that spans fourteen streets wide and long. There are no traffic lights here—or anywhere on the island. And everyone waves. Our driver is the real deal. Born and raised on Maui, Mary started competing in all things equestrian by the age of nine. Her father, a farrier, taught her how to shoe a horse, but these days, the stables are taking a different tack. “We are completely shoe-free,” Klein says, explaining that going bare-hoofed allows the animals’ feet to expand and contract naturally. She points out highlights and history as we wind our way through town: the local bank featured on statewide commercials, the gas station, the public gym, a handful of eateries, and the local college. “What’s for dinner?” she calls to the family with a front-yard barbeque in progress. The griller, a chef at Malibu Farm, is evidently enjoying a busman’s holiday. More than 90 percent of the island is owned by Pūlama Lāna‘i (or in turn by tech giant Larry Ellison). The company has been restoring some of the town’s venerable buildings, including the old courthouse and a woodshop where workers previously sorted pineapples. There are no Starbucks, but you can purchase your cappuccino-latte-whatever at Coffee Works daily—except Sundays. The carriage ride is a relatively new addition to the suite of activities for Lāna‘i visitors. “It’s the best way to feel like a celebrity,” Mary says, as keiki come running to check it out.

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » JAN-FEB 2020

SOME ENCHANTED EVENINGS

begin with a table along Hulopo'e Bay to savor a few chef specialties and toast a day well spent. Right:

IN GOOD HANDS ABOARD THE KALULU

6:30pm

We arrive at the Four Seasons’ open-air ONE FORTY restaurant, named for the number of square miles that make up the island, in time to catch the fading view of Hulopo‘e Bay and the moon arcing up into an inky sky. Celebratory flutes of champagne, the chef’s selection of sweet oysters, and a salad of Waipoli butter lettuce start the repast. We share a delicate, locally caught ‘ōpakapaka (snapper), and a buttery wagyu New York strip steak topped with braised chestnuts, caramelized onions, and roasted mushrooms. Wisely following our carriage driver’s advice, we add a side of lobster mashed potatoes. But I’m fairly sure it’s the bottle of “One Forty” that causes us to be among the guests closing the restaurant. Crafted exclusively to pair with the venue’s signature beef dishes, the Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon is exquisite, its last drops melding nicely with the outside-crunchy, inside-molten chocolate soufflé that tops off our meal. 44

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12pm

9:30am

We learned last night that this morning’s near-dawn, deep-sea fishing excursion has been rescheduled—to noon. So after a quick breakfast, we take the gently sloping path down to Hulopo‘e Beach, one of my favorites. Both Hulopo‘e and Mānele Bay are marine preserves, where only shoreline fishing is allowed. Clear and calm waters prevail, and an easy snorkel over coral reefs reveals spectacled parrotfish, convict and yellow tangs, and goatfish. They, too, seem to be in relax mode, allowing the gentle, oscillating surge to carry them back and forth, midwater or at the bottom of sandy channels.

At the harbor, Captain Ricky Etrata and deckhand Chris Stoehr (also a licensed captain) welcome us aboard the Kalulu, a thirty-nine-foot, rigid-bottom inflatable with a past life as a chase boat for the America’s Cup. Its three 250-horsepower engines could reach Lahaina in a mere twenty minutes, but we’re headed in the opposite direction, to waters off Lāna‘i’s southwest flank. Captain Ricky shares details about the small fleet of boats that make up Lāna‘i Ocean Sports. We’re in good hands: for the last twenty years he’s captained snorkel tours, divecertification trips, and sunset sails, from small, private rentals to the Lāna‘i V, which can hold up to thirty passengers. Winds often kick up in the afternoon around the islands, but our luck holds and the sea chop is mild. After trolling unsuccessfully in deeper waters, Captain

FAR LEFT AND OPPOSITE: BARBARA KRAFT/FOUR SEASONS; PHILLIP SOWERS; BARBARA KRAFT/FOUR SEASONS

Fishing in waters off Lāna‘i might reel in more than a mahimahi or yellow-fin tuna: whalesharks, manta rays, and humpbacks are all known to make surprise visits during ocean adventures.

Ricky brings us closer to shore, where sheer coastal bluffs rise more than 1,000 feet, the highest south-facing cliffs in Hawai‘i. “Fish on!” hollers Chris, pointing to the taut line off the stern. The reeling-in is effortless, and it feels like a bit of puffery to claim I landed this gorgeous creature with sapphire-blue fins and a splattering of blue spots on moss-green sides. Pāpio are young ulua, also known as jacks or trevally. Ricky estimates its size at eight pounds. Jay’s seemingly simple question, “What’s your favorite fish to catch?” inspires a lengthy and appreciative discourse by Ricky on the different species fished around Lāna‘i. We land another two and lose one before turning back. As we close out the last of our adventures, it’s hard to believe that several hours have passed on the water with barely another soul in sight.

Relax. There’s More. Despite Lāna‘i’s laid-back vibe, you could easily fill a week with activities and culinary experiences in and around town. Outdoor pursuits available

4:30pm

On the return trip to Maui, I’m struck not just by the slow pace Lāna‘i induces, nor the delicious sense of seclusion, but also the feeling of being embraced by the island, and the kindness and genuine openness of the people we met. As with all good journeys, my only regret is that it’s over too soon, with so much left unexplored. The pāpio accompanying us home promises to be a wonderful consolation.

through the resort include guided horseback rides, sporting clays, off-road touring, golf and tennis, and a suite of boat-based trips. More sedate options include cultural activities, poolside or beach lounging, mixology (and tasting) classes, and the spa and fitness center. Or poke around Lāna‘i City on your own, exploring local galleries, shops, and the Lāna‘i Culture and Heritage Center. Four Seasons Resort Lanai: 808-565-2000; FourSeasons.com/lanai/activities Check out the Lanai Guide website and app: www.LanaiGuideApp.org

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The

FLOWERS of

NI‘IHAU From TINY SHELLS that WASH ASHORE ON THIS Forbidden Island COME PRICELESS TREASURES.

Opposite: Ni‘ihau residents wear lei pūpū for special occasions, ceremonial events, and sometimes just for everyday. This museum quality three-strand deluxe lei kipona is made by Ni‘ihau artisan Kalei Aloha Roback.

an isolated island exposed to the brunt of winter storms, high surf pushes thousands of tiny shells, or pūpū, up onto the shores. Their presence is essential to a people who live almost entirely removed from the outside world. Gathered and crafted into exquisite lei, the delicate pūpū o Ni‘ihau are an art form that not only reflects a unique lifestyle, but sustains it financially. The lei that local artisan Kalei Aloha Roback wears around her neck is worth many thousands of dollars. It’s a lei that took her years to make—a waist-length bounty of white, brown, pink, and gold pūpū that she takes with her wherever she goes. Someday, it will be passed on to one of her seven children, just as she was given lei by her mother and by her auntie on her wedding day. Born and raised on Ni‘ihau, Roback started learning the art of lei pūpū at a young age. She would go with her family to the windswept beaches to “pick pūpū,”

Story by Sky Barnhart | Photography by Shanoaleigh Marson

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » JAN-FEB 2020

Opposite: Patience is an art form. Once the pūpū have been collected and sorted, they are painstakingly pierced and strung. During this delicate process, as many as one out of five shells may be broken.

lying on her stomach for hours in the hot sun. She learned how to spot the delicate types of shells in the sand: the oval momi o ke kai, (pearl of the sea) are pure white or almost black. The prized kahelelani— named after an ancient chief of Ni‘ihau— are tiny turban shells less than five millimeters across, ranging from soft pink to deep brown. The laiki, like lustrous grains of rice, are used to make the traditional wedding lei of Ni‘ihau women, often with strands reaching to their knees. Queen Emma and Queen Kapi‘olani posed for formal photographs in the 1800s with sumptuous lei pūpū o Ni‘ihau adorning their regal attire. The Bishop Museum on O‘ahu houses a stunning collection, including many lei so fragile they are kept in storage. Although the tiny shells can be found 48

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They remove minute grains of sand and carefully pierce the shells with a sharp awl. Many shells—sometimes one out of five—break during this process, according to Roback. She rubs together her calloused thumb and forefinger as evidence of years of painstaking labor. “Stringing is more fun!” Roback says. That’s where the lei makers get creative, displaying styles from the traditional lei kui pololei, which use a single thread, to the newer styles like lei kui poepoe, which has a ropelike appearance. Ni‘ihau’s dry, dusty climate permits only a few tropical blooms on the island, but residents don’t seem to miss them. Instead of wearing flower lei that yellow and die, the women adorn themselves with shell lei woven in symmetrical patterns to resemble the pīkake, heliconia, and crown flower. To celebrate a festive event, men too might wear a lei—typically a heavier design woven from larger shells like ‘alīlea or pōleho. Very few outsiders are allowed to visit the island. However, lei makers from Ni‘ihau routinely make trips to share their art form at cultural festivals, such as Celebration of the Arts, held at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, in April. Roback travels among the islands as a representative of the Ni‘ihau shell lei makers. Her soft voice is wistful when she speaks of her native island. “I wish I could be there and work on the shells every day,” she says. Every day, that is, except Sunday—a day of rest on this deeply religious island. “On Sundays, we don’t fish or work or make lei. We wear [the lei] to church, then we go home and visit with family,” Roback says. “You’re happy when you’re making lei; it’s not something you’ve got to do. It’s always a happy time doing it.” Maybe that quiet happiness is why making the lei pūpū o Ni‘ihau has sustained a people for centuries.

Ranging FROM soft pink TO DEEP BROWN, she learned HOW TO SPOT THE TINY TURBAN shells in the SAND.

An earlier version of this story appeared in the July/August 2008 issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi.

THIS PAGE: JASON MOORE

Above: Born and raised on Ni‘ihau, Kalei Aloha grew up “picking pūpū” on the beaches with her family. Today, she travels among islands as a representative of the Ni‘ihau shell lei makers, helping them to sustain their way of life.

on other shores, the quality cannot compare to those on Ni‘ihau. The island’s coral beds are untouched by outside influences, allowing the delicate pūpū to develop their prized shine. “Kahelelani are the only shells in the world that can be insured as gemstones,” says Panna Speas Cappelli, owner of Maui Hands art galleries and a passionate collector of Ni‘ihau shell lei. “I tell people, these lei are like an investment, they will increase in value.” Prices start at approximately $465 for a single-strand lei momi, and go up to $21,000 for an elaborate, three-strand lei kipona with heliconia weave, composed of thousands of shells that took years to gather. The lei pūpū at Maui Hands’ Pā‘ia, Makawao, Lahaina and Kā‘anapali locations together comprise the largest collection on the island. Speas Cappelli is meticulous about quality, buying only genuine Ni‘ihau shell lei—a product that is becoming increasingly rare. Ni‘ihau lies off the southwestern tip of Kaua‘i. Fewer than 150 people, mostly Native Hawaiian, live on the seventy-twosquare-mile island, which has been privately owned since 1864, first by the Sinclair family, and now by the Robinsons. Operations on the family’s cattle ranch ceased in 1999. Since then, residents have had virtually no other means of making a living than creating and selling the precious lei. As residents age, the population is dwindling. With no cars or electricity, it’s a way of life too sedate for many of the younger generation. Paired with that migration is a decreasing quantity of pūpū washing up on the beaches, the result of changing ocean conditions. Pollution can roughen the shells and endanger the health of their miniscule inhabitants, causing a decline in numbers. Still, the matriarchs of Ni‘ihau continue their daily work. They gather the pūpū and sort them by type, size, and quality.

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » JAN-FEB 2020

Maui spas offer no shortage of deluxe pampering treatments to cater to your every wish. Not sure where to start? Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve decoded some of our favorites to help you decide.

IN PURSUIT OF PLEASURE 50

MAUIMAGAZINE.NET

NIGHTANDDAYIMAGES

Nature’s Best T H E T R E AT M E N T Liliko‘i Body Bliss | Spa Grande at Grand Wailea Maui GrandWailea.com/gallery/spa | 875-1234

W H AT I T I N C L U D E S Maui’s natural wonders are at the forefront of this spa experience. Any visit to Spa Grande begins with the “Healing Waters of Maui” hydrotherapy circuit, which follows the Hawaiian concept of ahupua‘a (land division) features five nutrient-rich baths that mimic clouds, waterfalls, streams, rainforest, and ocean. The treatment includes a full-body scrub using locally grown liliko‘i (passion fruit), cane sugar, and organic honey. It’s followed by a soothing lomi lomi massage. W H AT I T ’ S G O O D F O R The combination of massage therapy and aromatic extracts not only soothes sore and tired muscles, but blissfully elevates the spirit and delights the senses. W H AT I T C O S T S 100 minutes, $350

Cultural Connection

Romance T H E T R E AT M E N T Maui Romance | Spa Montage at Montage montagehotels.com/spamontage/kapaluabay | 662-6600

W H AT I T I N C L U D E S Indoor-outdoor treatment rooms highlight nature’s beauty while remaining blissfully private. Inside, the stage is set for an enchanting escape: a coconut milk bath in a stone-carved tub is adorned with tropical flowers, and a fresh fruit platter sweetens the deal. Soak up the romance, then enjoy personalized side-by-side massages. W H AT I T ’ S G O O D F O R A couple’s massage isn’t all pillow talk or loving glances sent across the room. It’s more of a chance for partners to unwind—a way to be refreshed, to disconnect from buzzing phones, and to be fully engaged in a deliciously indulgent activity together. W H AT I T C O S T S 90 minutes, $580; 120 minutes, $760

T H E T R E AT M E N T ‘Āina Spa Ritual | Ho‘omana Spa HoomanaSpaMaui.com | 573-8256

W H AT I T I N C L U D E S This cultural immersion begins outdoors, where you’ll gather medicinal herbs from the spa’s native garden. Healing plants are combined with sea salt and oil extracts and steeped into a bath, followed by an ‘awa clay body mask and lomi lomi massage. Following tradition that has been passed down through generations, every treatment begins with a Hawaiian chant. W H AT I T ’ S G O O D F O R Hawaiians believe that mana, the life force, dwells within our bones. Lomi lomi works by unlocking the tension in the muscles and ligaments surrounding them, which allows mana to circulate more freely. Practitioners apply a gentle touch and work deep into the muscles, while continuous flowing strokes unwind tension. W H AT I T C O S T S 3 hours, $375

Sun Relief T H E T R E AT M E N T Restore | ‘Āwili Spa at Andaz Maui hyatt.com/en-US/spas/awili-spa-and-salon/home | 573-1234

W H AT I T I N C L U D E S Despite best intentions to use caution when outdoors, the sun’s rays can wreak havoc on your skin. Repent for your solar sins with this restorative treatment that begins with a body scrub, followed by an aloe-infused wrap, and finishes with a hydrating massage that uses oils made from stonecrop succulents. W H AT I T ’ S G O O D F O R Aloe contains compounds called polysaccharides that encourage skin repair and new skin cell production. With the botanical’s gel mostly made of water, therapeutic aloe hydrates the skin without leaving any post-application product residue. It also helps lock in moisture, while ultimately smoothing and softening your skin. W H AT I T C O S T S 90 minutes, $299; 120 minutes, $399

Active Body Rx T H E T R E AT M E N T ‘Awa Remedy | Willow Stream Spa at Fairmont Kea Lani fairmont.com/kea-lani-maui/willow-stream | 875 2229

W H AT I T I N C L U D E S For centuries, Polynesians have revered ‘awa as a medicinal plant known to release tension and soothe sore muscles. Inspired by Hawaiian warriors who used the root to relieve bodily stress, this treatment is perfect for modern-day athletes. The spa’s citrus sugar scrub prepares the skin for the healing powers of an ‘awa and aloe body mask that’s followed by an invigorating headto-toe massage. W H AT I T ’ S G O O D F O R While ‘awa is typically consumed as a beverage, incorporating it into a massage effectively relaxes tense muscle tissue. Its warming nature helps to increase peripheral blood flow. W H AT I T C O S T S 90 minutes, $279; available as a couple’s experience

Pure Luxury

Radiant Results T H E T R E AT M E N T The Hydrafacial | The Ritz-Carlton Spa, Kapalua RitzCarlton.com/en/hotels/kapalua-maui/spa | 665-7079

W H AT I T I N C L U D E S It’s an anti-aging treatment on a mission to deliver medical-grade results without a lot of fuss. Relax in the comfort of a spa setting, while a Hydafacial therapist helps to deliver a more radiant you in three steps: cleansing, exfoliating, then infusing with restorative serums. W H AT I T ’ S G O O D F O R Without surgery, injections, discomfort, or down time, this pain-free procedure is like a pleasurable massage for your face, and is designed to minimize wrinkles, fine lines, hyper-pigmentation, clogged pores, uneven skin tone, and more. W H AT I T C O S T S 25 minutes, $165; 50 minutes, $280; 80 minutes, $395

THE TREATMENT Celestial Black Diamond Facial | The Spa at Four Seasons Maui FourSeasons.com/maui/spa | 874-8000

W H AT I T I N C L U D E S If Marilyn were alive today, it’s likely she’d be singing the praises of a facial that literally covers you in diamonds. As its name suggests, actual nano particles of diamonds are in this face mask. Working in concert with other spa products, “diamond dust” transports ingredients more deeply into the skin. LED light and oxygen therapy are also integrated into the luxe treatment, promising to zap bacteria, stimulate collagen production, and reduce inflammation. W H AT I T ’ S G O O D F O R Designed to shrink pores, brighten complexion, and plump tired skin, the so-called “red carpet facial” is said to be a go-to for celebrities facing the klieg lights and flashing bulbs, so you can be confident this treatment has been field-tested. W H AT I T C O S T S 80 minutes, $495

MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI » JAN-FEB 2020

JOY OF GIVING

Left to right: President and CEO Gunars Valkirs, operations manager Dan Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Doherty, and vice president and CFO Krishna Naraya are banking on Maui Ku'ia Estate Chocolate's sweet success. The company will donate 100 percent of its net profits to island charities.

Sweet Charity Philanthropy is at the center of each piece of Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate. S t o r y b y B E C K Y S P E E R E | P h o t o g r a p h y b y B R YA N B E R K O W I T Z

ircular saws and metal-on-metal drills screech and whine as I follow retired biophysicist Dr. Gunars Valkirs through the labyrinth that is Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate (MKEC). Over the whir in the anticipated, state-ofthe-art, chocolate manufacturing plant, he bellows, “this is going to be the loading and offloading dock for our cacao beans, supplies, and finished chocolate. this is where it all begins!” Smiling broadly, Gunars points to lines on the freshly poured concrete floors as we traverse the dusty dry-walled rooms and hallways. I realize he’s showing me a secret road map: future locations for the roaster, winnower, ball mills, conchers, tempering units, molding machine, and more. Two years after the factory’s groundbreaking, Gunars has invited a group of us from Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi to tour the first offgrid facility of its kind in Hawai‘i. Greeting us warmly, he shares that the company’s name derives from the ahupua‘a (traditional Hawaiian land division) where the farm is located. “Ku‘ia means ‘spearhead,’” he says, “because the land was once a place for battle practice.” Today, its new caretakers are spearheading innovative ways to benefit community. Gunars and his wife, JoRene, are major philanthropists, along with their daughter, Jami Burks, who manages their Makana Aloha Foundation. The business model—indeed, the sole reason for MKEC—is to donate 100 percent of its net profits to charities throughout Maui County. Projected at what could be about $1 million a year in perpetuity, MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI » JAN-FEB 2020

OFF-THEGRID

Top Left: Krishna stands next to one of the Tesla batteries set to provide energy for up to 1,050 kilowatt-hours. Top Right: Dried cacao beans from Costa Esmeralda ready for roasting. Middle: Cacao nibs get pulverized in a mill for three hours, creating the chocolate's velvety finish. Below Right: Technology director Dennis Elms monitors a chocolate-molding device. Below Left: Roasted nibs inch one step closer to becoming micronsized. Opposite:

THAT'S A WRAP!

Once it's discarded, MKEC's eco-friendly paper biodegrades within ten days.

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the business is committed to producing some of the world’s best chocolate—right here on Maui. The Valkirs like to refer to the mission statement as their “chocolate kuleana” (responsibility). He elaborates, “Our focus is producing the highest quality chocolate using cacao grown on Maui, and sustainably sourcing cacao from Ecuador and the Amazon.” At the factory, the public is invited to purchase gourmet chocolates in beautifully presented gift boxes. On a grander scale, Gunars and Krishna have created a corporate partnership program through which businesses purchasing Ku‘ia Estate chocolate are invited to designate a local charity of their choice to receive the net profits of their purchase. A few of the businesses on board include PLANNING Andaz Maui, Nā Hoaloha ‘Ekolu, AHEAD Hyatt Regency Maui, and Taverna. Opposite: Marketing director A sweet deal for Maui. Caitlyn Fisler is

the trees slowly came back to life, bearing new green leaves—a joyous sight for the entire crew. Krishna leads us through the facility, at each stop revealing the next step in what will be an almost entirely automated process of chocolate production. We circle back to the entrance, where counters of granite and salvaged monkeypod wood are being installed. Deep chocolate and gold-streaked caramel colors of the variegated hardwood add unmistakable warmth to the room. The space will accommodate tastings, including chocolate milk shakes and baked goods, and room for retail sales. TV monitors installed for visitors follow cacao farm

happy to oversee Ku'ia's busy events calendar.

efore heading back to work, Gunars places us in Right: the capable hands of our Dark milk chocolate are freed guide, Krishna Naraya, squares from their molds. Ku‘ia’s vice president and general manager. Our first stop Middle: Wholesale merch is the parking lot, where Krishna includes bags of drops draws our attention to rows of chocolate ready for solar panels overhead. He says, “We commercial use. are the largest off-grid chocolatemanufacturing plant in Hawaii. What you see above us are 847 photovoltaic panels, which produce 300 kilowatts of power and provide shade for guest parking.” As we enter the building, Krishna gets to the specifics of the Maui Ku‘ia Estate Cacao Farm. “Currently, we have 7,000 trees planted on twenty acres. Once the farm is complete, we’ll have fifty acres planted with 20,000 trees. So far, we’ve produced 4,000 pounds of dried cacao, which we will manufacture into dark chocolate and dark milk chocolate. We’ll be in full harvest and production within five years—if everything goes as planned.” The disclaimer is understandable. In August 2018, mere months after their first cacao harvest, a wildfire tore through the Lahaina foothills, propelled by sustained winds of seventy miles per hour. At the time, Gunars told me he believed that the farm project he’d just brought to fruition would be a total loss. Miraculously, the trees were spared, thanks to the densely planted windbreak encircling his plantation. “All the cacao trees were stripped of their leaves by the high winds. Dan O’Doherty (MKEC’s operations manager) said we had to get the water lines reinstalled as soon as possible. We had no more than two weeks to restore our water if we wanted to save the trees, so we worked day and night.” Salvaging what they could—despite the loss of over $100,000 in farm equipment— Gunars and his team moved on. The water was restored and

employees in the field: stages of harvest, fermentation and drying are explained, while a large viewing window allows guests to see the production process. Our tour concludes on the second floor, an open-air setting with views extending across the channel waters to Lāna‘i island. Smiling with pride, Krishna points east to a plot of lush green on West Maui’s slope surrounded by dry brush. “That is our cacao farm,” he says, then introduces Caitlyn Fisler, the company’s sales and marketing director. “Welcome to The Pavilion, Ku‘ia’s full-service, specialevents space,” Fisler tells us. “I’m in charge of coordinating events such as weddings and birthday celebrations. We began booking events for 2020 last year,” she says. “Soon to come will be a Chef’s Table in our downstairs salon, where twenty-three guests will enjoy fine food and, of course, chocolates.” A chef’s table in a chocolate factory? I know where we’ll want to hold our next employee party. As we depart, gift boxes of chocolate in hand, I recall a favorite quote of Gunars, by baseball legend Jackie Robinson: “A life is not important except in the impact it has on other lives.” It’s a saying the Valkirs live by, and how sweet it is for all of us that they do. Visit Maui Estate Ku'ia Estate Chocolate's retail store at 134 Keoawa St., Lahaina, or go to MauiChocolate.com. MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI » JAN-FEB 2020

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MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » JAN-FEB 2020

eil Felder has grown accustomed to the stares.

He says passersby often pause next to the hedge that separates his Wailea property from Keawakapu Beach. Some gaze contemplatively. Others pull out their smartphones and snap a photo. Neil knows exactly what theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking at: a structural arch that descends dramatically from the roof, slices through the second-story lÄ nai railing, and plunges into the swimming pool below. The design stops beachgoers in

their tracks, but it’s functional, too; the charcoal-gray column supports a cantilevered lānai. Like an abstract sculpture in an art gallery, the arch invites varying interpretations: from one vantage, it resembles a cresting wave; from another, a whale’s tail. The same goes for the rest of the glass-and-stucco residence. Its interplay of curves and lines reveals a new impression at every turn. And that’s precisely what Neil and his wife, Suzette, had in mind when they

decided to build a home on the seaside property four years ago. At the time, a bunker-like concrete cottage occupied the narrow, nearly halfacre parcel—hardly a selling point. But there was no denying the lot’s swoonworthy views and proximity to the ocean. So when the couple learned it was for sale, they thought hard about whether to make an offer. Then one day, Neil took a stroll on Keawakapu Beach. Stopping near the makai (ocean side) entrance

Counterclockwise from far left: An aerial view of the property shows off what is arguably the home’s most enviable asset— its proximity to Keawakapu Beach. For the dining area, Suzette chose understated pieces to complement the home’s contemporary aesthetic. A center island topped with a slab of pale-green Amazonite anchors the kitchen.

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to the property, he turned to look at the rolling waves—just in time to see a large sea turtle surface for a gulp of air. “I thought to myself: ‘Well, there’s my sign,’” he says laughing. The Felders purchased the lot, and decided to do away with the cottage and build something new. Neil and Suzette had a deal: he’d call the shots with the home’s exterior, and she would take creative control of the interior. Suzette had her heart set on a ground-level master suite, open kitchen and living area, and a master bath with dual vanities and separate commodes. Neil wanted a oneof-a-kind contemporary exterior that would make a bold statement—yet not

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overwhelm. “I wanted it to be different, but still fit into the area,” he explains. He didn’t have a specific look in mind, but recalls thinking he’d know it when he saw it. The couple’s realtor knew the right architect for the job: Marc Taron, owner of the Wailuku firm Arquitectura, LLC. In the weeks that followed, Marc would present a design to Neil, who would review it and say, “I like it, but it needs to be

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bolder.” Marc would return to his drafting table to tweak the design, pushing the envelope further each time. Finally, he showed Neil a rendering that included the sculptural arch, half-expecting him to veto it as too bold. Instead, it was the clincher. Neil says Marc’s design delivered on all fronts: It was daringly different, but also harmonized with its coastal surroundings. “It’s clearly not Hawaiiana-style, but with its curves and simple forms, the house seems to blend into the lot,” Marc says. Neil agrees. “I told Marc I wanted the ocean to be integrated into the house… and he nailed it.” At once luxurious and laid-back, the residence pays homage to the sea, from its wavelike roof to the expanse of windows that bring sensational views into nearly every room. (In fact, from indoors, all you see are sand, surf, and sky—the strategically placed windows prioritize privacy by keeping neighboring homes out of sight.) Inside, the spacious kitchen and dining area flow into a soaring great room whose massive sliding-glass doors open to the poolside lānai. The firstfloor master bedroom has an en-suite bath with his-and-her vanities and commodes. Stairs ascend to the two guest bedrooms, Neil’s ocean-view office (and yes, he admits he’s often distracted by the vista), and a second-floor lānai. Out back, there’s a landscaped lawn, custom saltwater pool, and gated pathway that leads to the beach. At the home’s entrance, a stone walkway seems to float in a shallow reflecting pool flanked by waterfall features. “Every inch of the lot is designed, not just the house,” Marc says. Working within the property’s slim, sloped footprint, he stacked the street-level garage atop a one-bedroom, one-bath ‘ohana (guest cottage). The two-story structure has a glass elevator and a sky bridge that connects it to the main house, amenities designed for long-term convenience, as the Felders says this is their “forever home.” Marc is proud of every project he’s worked on, but has a particular affinity for this one. “I think that good architecture should be contextual and sculptural, as well as functional,” he says. “With Neil and Suzette’s project, I think we achieved all three.” 66

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DINING

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This page: FOND's Executive Chef Jojo Vasquez with Sous chef Motley Adovas on his left. Opposite: At the helm of Ka'ana Kitchen is Chef de Cuisine Chance Savell.

STO RY BY

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Ka‘ana Kitchen An intimate Chef’sTable dining experience is a unique foodie adventure. Two entirely different restaurants led by skilled chefs make for a memorable night on the town. MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI » JAN-FEB 2020

Fond

hen FOND, Maui’s newest restaurant on the west side, opened for breakfast and lunch owners Jojo and Eliza Vasquez treaded slowly at first. A dinner menu was added, but only after a while. Chef Jojo, the talented “Rising Star” chef and MNKO’s 2017 Chef of the Year built a solid foundation prior to adding his latest chef’s table concept that had been simmering on the backburner for six months. Unleashing his natural, creative talents, we’ve come to eat and be entertained by the food maestro at his U-shaped counter. In the center, stand the chef and sous chef. With outstretched arms, like a conductor waiting to orchestrate, he says, “I’ve always wanted a chef’s table like this,” a warm smile lit across his face. “Tonight, I’ll be preparing for you some dishes that are especially created for this evening. The amuse-bouche you’re about to taste is one of my favorites.” As we sip from clear shot glasses, the chilled Maui onion vichyssoise with smoky kiawe coaxes a rich palate. I jokingly say to our server, “Could I please get five more of those?” The evening’s courses will be paired with two cocktails and a Washington State 2017 Substance Cabernet Sauvignon. A refreshingly light Champagne Coconut cocktail with pineapple shrub, coconut water, and calamansi lime follows. Jojo tells us that preparations change often with the availability of local and seasonal products. He adds, “I love working with Kona kanpachi from the Big Island because it’s a sustainably raised fish.” No endangered bluefin tuna was killed to create his kinilaw ceviche, a Filipino-style poke with a Japanese finish. As the former sous chef to Chef Masaharu Morimoto in the first two years of “Iron Chef America,” Japanese-inspired dishes are bound to surface. With squeeze bottles in hand, he says, “I am seasoning the fish with traditional ingredients you’d find in the Philippines…calamansi, coconut milk, and coconut cane vinegar. There is also ogo (seaweed) and dashi (Japanese fish and kombu stock).” The final touch is a crown of crisp, lacy ribbons of onion. As the fulcrum of the evening's gathering, Jojo exudes calm and confidence; he’s a natural chef who seems to love sharing hard-learned culinary secrets with his ten guests. Next, Kaua‘i prawns tossed in curried Indian spices fills the room with the exotic scent of cardamom, ginger, and cumin. We dip our spoons into the kabocha chawan mushi, a delicately flavored steamed custard, while others eagerly dig into the aromatic prawn specialty. We are in a blissful silence with Jojo’s chef’s-table choices: steak au poivre with Maui Cattle Company beef, and then the finale, a seven-layer halo-halo of shaved ice and fresh fruit. Ending the evening as a conductor would do, Jojo takes a bow. Salamat, Chef! FOND, Napili Plaza, Nāpili, 5095 Nāpilihau St., Suite 115, 856-0225

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This page clockwise from top right: Jojo and Motley team up to plate a dish; kanpachi kinilaw gets a splash of coconut vinegar; Jojo's modern twist on halo halo; kinilaw topped with crispy onions; bartender Tara Fontaine's New Delhi sour; kiawe smoked Maui onion vichyssoise; Maui Cattle Company sirloin steak au poivre. Opposite: Japanese pumpkin custard & curry scented Kauai prawns.

Ka‘ana Kitchen

This page: Chef de Cuisine Chance Savell dazzles with a chef's table that includes (clockwise, below) braised wagyu short rib, a rare Madeira, clams and 'ulu. Sommelier Charlie Sieber elevates the meal with his wine pairings. Opposite: Pork belly adobo with papaya gastrique; kiawe smoked pineapple and butter lettuce on creamy upcountry goat cheese drizzled with goat whey vinaigrette.

a‘ana Kitchen at Andaz Maui in Wailea has offered its Chef’s Table dining since its opening in September 2013. Expanding on the idea, a portion of the restaurant, the former cocktail station, has been reapportioned as a ten-seat chef’s table. Diners will continue to enjoy “couples” dining around the hot station, if they chose, but this new section will create more seats for the foodie adventurous. Tonight, new Chef de Cuisine Chance Savell picks up the reins in the kitchen, and my husband, Chris, and I are excited to taste his additions to the menu. For the occasion, he’ll oversee the flow of the kitchen, making sure that main dining room and chef’s table dishes are produced and served in a timely manner. Hailing from Arkansas, Chance was raised by an English father and a Mexican mother he calls ‘a very good cook.’ He attended Le Cordon Bleu at the Orlando Culinary Academy, and says, some of the menu’s flavors are influenced by his mother’s heritage. Charlie Siebert, a passionate and brilliant sommelier, starts us off with a flute of H. Billiot Fils Brut Rosé Champagne as we watch the sun peak through clouds on its descent for the night. We prepare for a total of eight, tasting-size portions in six courses. Standouts include Chance’s creations: a bowl of clams in a light tomato broth with smoked bacon and ‘ulu (breadfruit); and braised wagyu short rib topped with escabeche (pickled root vegetables) served on horchata black forbidden rice with hints of cinnamon. Chance says that the staff recently participated in whole hog butchery, and his time has been spent working on pork specialties such as hot capicola and salumi. Tonight, braised pork adobo with a papaya gastrique glaze is a bombshell of flavor. Garlicky and mildly sweet with the correct balance of shoyu, its boldness is artfully tempered with a buttery kabocha purée and frisée salad. “The pork belly dish is a special for the day,” announces Chance, “and we knew you had to have it! When we do specials and change the menu items, one person will take the lead on a dish; then, we all taste as a team and critique, then we all taste as a team and give feedback.” Not until it’s perfected does it go on the menu. “Personally, I love this style of collaboration.” He says, it promotes a creative environment and helps the line cooks “understand what is involved to create a dish and feel pride in serving it to guests!” A trio of beautiful desserts rounds out the meal for a great ending. However, Charlie won’t be outdone by the pastry chef, “I have one very rare bottle of 1901 D’Oliveiras Malvasia Madeira, and you will be surprised how the 120-year-old wine held up! It will go with the rich cheesecake and lemon flavors.” As Chris and I sip the rare vintage, we make eye contact and nod our heads to acknowledge the superb dinner and its finely paired wine service. Ka'ana Kitchen at Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI » JAN-FEB 2020

THE GREAT CHOCOLATE CHALLENGE

TOP CHEFS SPILL THE CACAO BEANS ON FOUR SCRUMPTIOUS DESSERTS. NOW YOU CAN MAKE THEM, TOO.

Story by

B E C K Y

S P E E R E

Photography by

M I E K O

H O R I K O S H I

heobroma cacao is Latin for chocolate, meaning “Food of the Gods.” Aside from cocoa flavanols being good for cardiovascular function and supporting healthy blood vessels and flexible arteries, chocolate makes you feel good. Incredible desserts such as these highlight local, farm-to-bar Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolates. Eating them will actually give you another way to “feel good”: MKEC returns profits from the chocolates they produce to community charities and non-profits. So enjoy, and know you’re doing your part to help Maui—with every bite! 82

MAUIMAGAZINE.NET

TALL, DARK & HANDSOME Farm-to-bar entrepreneurs intent on making the best chocolate in the world.

Left: Executive Chef Isaac Bancaco and pastry chef Ashley Nakano of Andaz Maui. Right: Ka'ana Kitchen's 1-2-3 Chocolate Mousse

Above: Leoda's Kitchen and Pie Shop, Executive Pastry Chef Ed Morita. Below: Chocolate Goat Cheese Tart

The Art of Cacao: Truly have your (chef-vetted) cake and eat it, too. Above: Flourless Chocolate Mousse Cake Below: Pastry Chef Courtney Galarita and Executive Chef Roger Stettler of Taverna

Left & Opposite: Chocolate Almond Olive Oil Cake. Right: Executive Chef Francois Milliet of Pūlehu restaurant at Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas

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WHY DECIDE?

Make them all and dazzle your Valentine.

MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI » JAN-FEB 2020

LEODA’S KITCHEN AND PIE SHOP

There are dessert places, and then, there are dessert places. Indulgent, home-girl destinations that fit into one’s lifestyle like a comfortable old robe. That’s how I feel about Leoda’s. Winner of the 2019 ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards for Best Dessert, it’s really no wonder guests like me keep coming back for their tasty confection. Pastry Chef Ed Morita created the chocolate goat cheese tart for the premier 2019 Hawaii Food & Wine Festival, and I’m hoping that it’ll be a regular in the refrigerated pastry case, right next to their famous banana cream pie. Not in the least bit “goatie” in flavor, the tart’s creaminess mimics the softest velvet with a generous balance of chocolate. Although this dessert was made with MKEC’s mochaflavored dark chocolate (using freshly roasted, locally grow beans from Lahaina’s MauiGrown Coffee), the recipe uses 65% dark chocolate. 820 Olowalu Village Road, Olowalu, 662-3600.

CHOCOLATE GOAT CHEESE TART YIELD: 1- NINE-INCH PIE OR 6- FIVE-INCH TARTS PREP TIME: 25–35 MINUTES, PLUS COOLING TIME

1 pre-baked pie shell or tart shells, cooled to room temp 7 oz. milk 7 oz. cream 2 Tbsp. sugar pinch of salt 2½ oz. goat cheese 9 oz. milk chocolate 6 oz. MKEC 65% dark chocolate 1 tsp. gelatin (bloomed in 1 Tbsp. water) 1 jar of marshmallow fluff

FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE MOUSSE CAKE YIELD: 1 EIGHT-INCH CAKE PREP TIME: 1½ HOURS

30 oz. granulated sugar (reserve 3 oz. for meringue) 5½ oz. egg whites 3 oz. egg yolks 5 oz. MKEC 65% dark chocolate 4 oz. unsalted butter 1 tsp. vanilla extract 1½ Tbsp. cornstarch ½ tsp. salt

Preheat oven to 320°. With a stand mixer, whip egg yolks, sugar (27 oz.), and vanilla extract until fluffy (about 5 minutes),

Combine chocolates in a bowl and set aside. Bring milk and cream to a simmer. Combine sugar, salt and eggs. Add a little hot milk to the egg-sugar mixture and whisk to temper. Pour in the remaining milk-cream mixture and cook until thick. Add gelatin and stir until melted. Remove from heat and use a hand blender to mix in the goat cheese. Add chocolate to the mix and blend until chocolate is melted and combined. Portion into the pie shell(s) and refrigerate till cool. Top shells with a generous scoop of marshmallow fluff, and toast it with a culinary torch.

TAVERNA

A little goes a long way with Taverna’s torta di cioccolato, a flourless 65% dark chocolate cake. One slice is generous enough to share with your date, but what’s stopping you from being just a tiny bit greedy and keeping it all for yourself? Just do it! No guilt will come of biting into a chocolate-dense forkful of the luscious slab. Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate shines in this dessert. Pastry chef Courtney Galarita takes cake-making to European levels by incorporating an Italian meringue (melted hot sugar whipped into egg whites) in a batter chock-full of butter, eggs, sugar, and vanilla. A very short stint in the oven gives the cake its unique bite. Paired with a glass of Daou Cabernet with its hint of chocolate, plum, and black fruit, a fortified ten-year-old tawny port, or a woodsy Banyuls from the south of France—your dining experience will be complete. 2000 Village Road, Kapalua, 667-2426.

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scraping sides once. While yolks are whipping, melt butter over low heat; do not overheat or it will separate. Place chocolate into a metal bowl over a low-heat water bath and melt the chocolate slowly. For Italian meringue, place remaining sugar into a small pot with 3 Tbsp. water and bring to a boil. Whip egg whites to soft peaks and carefully pour hot sugar syrup into egg whites. Whip till cooled to room temperature. Add cornstarch to the egg yolk mixture and whip until well incorporated, scraping the sides. Off the heat, quickly fold egg yolk mixture into the warm, melted chocolate. Using a whisk, add the melted butter to chocolate mix. Add a few tablespoons of meringue to lighten the chocolate mix, then gently

fold in remaining meringue. Pour into prepared baking pan (with removable sides) or silicone cake mold and bake for 18 minutes in a convection oven or 23–25 minutes in a conventional oven. Cool in refrigerator 6 hours or overnight. Cut with a knife blade that’s been dipped in hot water for a clean slice. Serve with your favorite sauce or ice cream.

PŪLEHU, AN ITALIAN GRILL

Chocolate Almond Olive Oil Cake. Just the name sells it. Personally, I love almond cake. Add chocolate and olive oil—two ingredients that are good for my health—and this cake hits a homerun at the end of a meal, regardless of what came before! A rich, dense confection studded with Ku‘ia chocolate pieces, I remember the very first time I sampled it at Pulehu. So utterly chocolatey-satisfying and delicious, I was tempted to take a piece home. Served with a scoop of pink amarena (cherry gelato) and sprinkled with crunchy house-made chocolate granola, trust me when I say, try it! The Westin Ka‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Drive, Ka‘anapali, 667-3200.

CHOCOLATE ALMOND OLIVE OIL CAKE YIELD: 1 NINE-INCH CAKE PREP TIME: 1 HOUR

4 oz. extra virgin olive oil 2 oz. unsweetened cocoa powder 3 oz. warm water 1 tsp. vanilla extract 9½ oz. finely ground almond meal 1 tsp. baking soda 6½ oz. granulated sugar 4 oz. eggs (about 2 eggs) 1 oz. MKEC 65% dark milk chocolate, coarsely chopped

Preheat oven to 350°. Place sugar into a food processor and pulse to fine granules. In a separate bowl, combine water and cocoa powder and mix well. In another bowl, combine almond flour, baking soda, and salt and stir to mix well. In a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, combine the oil and eggs on first speed for one minute. Add sugar slowly until combined, stopping to scrape sides of bowl once. Add cocoa powder water mixture to egg mixture, blending well,

scraping the sides of the bowl. Add almond-flour mixture in two parts with the MKEC, folding in with a spatula. Pour into a prepared baking pan, or a silicone mold and bake for 45 minutes, or until center is set. Cool in pan and unmold. Slice into portions and serve with your favorite locally produced gelato or ice cream.

KA‘ANA KITCHEN

Three ingredients! Chef Ashley Nakano may call it a mousse, but I think it’s even more decadent sans egg yolks. A one-to-one ratio of chocolate and cream make this a dessert lover’s dream. Add a little whipped cream to lighten it and VOILA! Ka‘ana Kitchen’s dessert will have you in cloaked in chocolatey bliss. Rich and dense served right out of the refrigerator, the mousse softens as it reaches room temperature. But, it may not have that chance because you’ll want to devour it on the spot. Juxtapos-

ing textures, it’s served with crunchy house-made taro and sweet potato chips. Wondering about the combination? Wonder no more, as Chef Ashley’s pairing will have you scooping the last schmear of mousse off the plate in record time. 3350 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 573-1234.

1-2-3 CHOCOLATE MOUSSE YIELD: 8-10 SERVINGS PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES

9 oz. MKEC 65% dark chocolate 9 oz. heavy cream 10½ oz. whipped cream Garnish with taro and sweet potato chips

Heat heavy cream to boiling, being careful not to scorch. Place chocolate into a medium-sized, heatproof bowl. Pour hot cream over chocolate and stir until smooth. Cool to room temperature. Fold in whipped cream. Refrigerate overnight. To serve, scoop or pipe mousse into a bowl. Drizzle with Haleakala Creamery Goat Milk Caramel. Sprinkle with black Hawaiian lava salt and place chips around mousse.

M I X O L O G Y

Jardin

M A U I

Yield: 1 mocktail 1½ oz. cucumber slices 1 oz. lime ½ oz. parsley syrup 5 mint leaves

In a shaker, combine all ingredients; muddle and mix. Strain into a Collins glass over freshly cubed ice. Fill with soda water. Garnish with ribbons of cucumber and mint.

Manako

Yield: 1 mocktail 2 oz. fresh mango juice 1½ oz. fresh pineapple juice 1 oz. sweetened condensed milk ¼ oz. fresh lime juice

Shake and strain over crushed ice into a Collins glass. Top with mango foam (recipe below) and garnish with an edible orchid.

Mango Foam

Yield: enough for 12 mocktails 6½ oz. ounces mango purée 1½ oz. egg white (about 2 eggs) 3½ oz. lime juice 3½ oz. orgeat syrup a healthy dash of coconut milk

If your New Year’s resolution is a healthier you, the Lobby Lounge at Four Seasons Resort Maui has the perfect way to celebrate: with free-spirited mocktails as delicious as they are good for you. STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

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n a recent visit to the Four Seasons’ ‘Aipono Award-winning Lobby Lounge, my daughter and I ordered mocktails—and found paradise in a pair of Collins glasses. Tori chose the Jardin, savoring the fresh, herby flavors of parsley syrup muddled with lime, mint, and cucumber juice—the perfect drink to accompany tender socca (chickpea flour flatbread) topped with a

*Pint-sized whipped-cream dispenser may be purchased at Bargreen Ellingson, 864 Alua Street, Wailuku, 808-242-4117. About $96.

generous portion of roasted, sweet cherry tomatoes and Maui onions tossed in a white balsamic vinaigrette. I ordered the Manako, relishing how its tropical fruit juices paired with fresh hearts of palm ceviche napped in sweet, fresh coconut milk. Feeling light of step after our soirée, we headed home, already planning occasions to return.

SHANOALEIGH MARSON

TASTY TEMPERANCE

Combine ingredients in a whipped-cream dispenser,* replace cover and shake. Charge with two chargers. The foam mixture will keep for about 4 days.

SAVOUR The experience of a lifetime, every time.

Best Pacific Rim Cuisine & Most Innovative Menu ‘Aipono Awards, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine Hawai‘i Seasonal Cuisine Chef de Cuisine Alvin Savella

Humu Lounge 5 pm to 10 pm | Dinner 5 pm to 9:30 pm 3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, HI 96753 @grandwailea

•

808.875.1234 Ext. 2500

WWW.GRANDWAILEA.COM

SHANOALEIGH MARSON

DINING GUIDE

G U I D E D I N I N G

» B = Breakfast » BR = Brunch » L = Lunch » H = Happy Hour » D = Dinner » N = Dinner past 9 p.m. » R= Reservation recommended » $ = Average entrée under $15 » $$ = Under $25 » $$$ = Under $40 » $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2019

WEST SIDE A‘A ROOTS Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Suite 3, Nāpili, 298-2499

Vegan cuisine made with the freshest Maui produce. Try the açai bowl, soba bowl with peanut sauce, or bagel sandwich with hummus, avo and veggies. International. B, L. $

ALCHEMY MAUI 157 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 793-2115

Nutty veggie and whitecheddar burgers, bahn mi bowls with lemongrass chicken, and mojo pork for Cubanos on freshly baked sourdough—all served in this quasi-industrial setting. Don’t forget the Valley Isle Kombucha. International. L. $-$$

ALOHA MIXED PLATE 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322

Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $

AMIGO’S 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210

Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $

AUNTIE’S KITCHEN

The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3259

Saimin, burgers and fresh-fish plate lunches mingle with other local fare. Local Mixed Plate. B, L, D. $–$$

THE BANYAN TREE 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096

Chef Bella Toland’s interpretation of her lola’s (grandmother’s) pancit palabok is a fine Filipino noodle dish chock-full of shrimp and calamari steak, finished with a lobster-stock reduction in annatto-gingergarlic-shrimp sauce, and topped with herbs, chicharron and garlic. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$

BREAKWALL SHAVE ICE COMPANY

sweet bread filled with kālua pork and Gruyère mornay sauce. For dinner: Kaua‘i prawns and Kona kampachi with beet dashi, kabocha squash, or mushroom Bolognese over yaki soba noodles. Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$–$$$$

CAPTAIN JACK’S ISLAND GRILL The Wharf Cinema Center, 672 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0988

The menu alone is worth the trip, with choices like Siren’s shrimp, Black Bart’s BBQ chicken salad, and Black Beard’s Philly cheesesteak. American. L, D. $–$$

CHOICE HEALTH BAR 1087 Limahana Pl., #1A, Lahaina, 661-7711

Juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are The Wharf Cinema Center all made with fresh local Shops, 658 Front St., #104, ingredients. Daily specials, Lahaina, 661-4900 and an epic entrée with Adult shave ice? You bet! Cool forbidden rice and marinated off with one of the best snow broccoli in red-pepper cones on Maui, and discover sesame sauce. your favorite island flavor. Second West Maui Treats. $ location: Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., CANE & CANOE Kā‘anapali. American. B, L. $ Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681

For breakfast: Surfing Goat Dairy cheese crêpes with Kula strawberries or croquemadame made with Hawaiian

CLIFF DIVE GRILL Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031

Order Hawaiian-style edamame,

a juicy burger, or fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$

THE COFFEE STORE Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 669-4170

Stop in for a coffee and muffin . . . and you may end up staying for lunch—or later. (They’re open till 6 p.m.) Great service and freshbaked goods, yogurt-granola parfaits, chia pudding, and to-go items. Coffee Shop. B, L, D. $

COOL CAT CAFÉ 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908

Burgers, chicken, fish and more, all in a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $

DOWN THE HATCH The Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900

Mermaid fries with cheese, bacon, ranch dressing and lava sauce; towering shrimp cocktails; fresh island fish; and lots of Southern aloha great shave ice, too! (See Breakwall’s listing.) Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D, N, R. $$

DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC

661-1234

Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$

DUKE’S Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900

Imagine Old Hawai‘i while dining on crab-andmacadamia-nut wontons or prime rib at this open-air beach house. Kid-friendly. American/ Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R. $$

FEAST AT LELE 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-5353

This classy beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$

FLEETWOOD’S ON FRONT ST. 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425.

(Yes, that Fleetwood.) Pacific oysters with a tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome, and a one-pound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. Bar opens at 2 p.m. American/British Pub Food. L, H, D, N. $$–$$$$

Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali,

SEE MORE LISTINGS AT MAUIMAGAZINE.NET/DININGGUIDE MAUIMAGAZINE.NET

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » JAN-FEB 2020

G U I D E

FRIDA’S MEXICAN BEACH HOUSE

1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287

D I N I N G

Chalupas, fresh aguachile ‘ahi, short-rib tacos, and great mixology are among the reasons this seaside restaurant won the Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Mexican Cuisine. Latin-inspired. L, H, D. $–$$

HONOLULU COFFEE COMPANY

Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 868-4806

‘Aipono’s 2019 Silver Award winner for Best Coffee Shop, this full-service coffee bar also offers light fare such as granola parfait with fresh fruit, bagels, and ham-and-cheese croissants. Coffee Shop. B, L. $

HONU SEAFOOD & PIZZA 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390

Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/Pizza. L, D. $$

HULA GRILL Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636

Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy poke tacos, tiki mai tais, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D. $$

INU POOL BAR The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6370

Island-fresh mixology earned Inu the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best Cocktails. Taste for yourself—and enjoy Maui Brewing Company’s Coconut Hiwa beer-can chicken with shoestring potatoes and buttermilk dip, or Maui beer-battered tempura fish with Ocean Vodka tartar sauce. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D. $–$$

JAPENGO Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727

Great steaks and authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood are just two of the reasons Japengo won ‘Aipono’s 2019 Gold Award as Restaurant of the Year. Japanese. D, N. $$$

JOEY’S KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474 Second West Maui location: Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590

You can start your day with macadamianut pancakes or kālua-pork omelet at Whalers Village . . . and end at Joey’s Nāpili venue with the best dinner ever. Chef Joey Macadangdang knows good food. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$

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LAHAINA GRILL 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117

Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad; Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with vanilla-bean jasmine rice; or the famous Kona coffee-roasted rack of lamb with coffeecabernet demi-glace. Great wine selections and cocktails. American/Pacific Rim. D, R. $$$$

LEILANI’S ON THE BEACH Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495

Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors with a lemongrass miso salmon and Duroc pork ribs with honey BBQ glaze. Kid-friendly. Steak/ Seafood. L, H, D, N. $$

LEODA’S KITCHEN & PIE SHOP 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600

The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw, and ice-cold beer, or just-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance. After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie! American. B, L, D. $

other baked goods round out a great cuppa joe. Coffee Shop/Café. B, L. $

MAUI’S BEST BANANA BREAD + COFFEE CO. 180 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 661-6216

Banana, roasted macadamia nuts, and coconut—life’s essentials rolled into a single serving of sweetness. Coffees, smoothies, and lunch, too! Bacon, eggs and ham bagel, turkey-avo wrap. GF banana-bread option. Coffee Shop. B, L. $

MAUKA MAKAI The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6400

Expect the freshest fish, beef and lamb, vegetable sautés, and island-inspired desserts at this restaurant that celebrates the fishing and farming cultures of ancient Hawai‘i. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$

MERRIMAN’S KAPALUA 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua, 669-6400

Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create the most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, R. $$–$$$$

LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE

MISO PHAT SUSHI

624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476

Kahana Manor, 4310 L.

This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. Also see South Shore listing. Treats. $

Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #111, Kahana, 669-9010

MĀLA OCEAN TAVERN

335 Keawe St., #211, Lahaina, 214-5106

1307 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9394

Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the health-conscious and the hedonistic alike at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings are nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (SatSun), L, D. $$

MAUIGROWN COFFEE COMPANY STORE 277 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-2728

If you’re running low on energy, head to MauiGrown’s plantation-style hale for a boost. Pumpkin bread and

See South Side listing.

MOKU ROOTS

Where can you find a vegan/ vegetarian venue worthy of the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best New Restaurant? The same place you’ll find a Gold for tastiest Healthy Fare—here! Vegetarian-Vegan. B, L, D, R. $

MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763

See South Shore listing.

complete with kālua pig unearthed from the imu. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$

OLD LĀHAINA LŪ‘AU 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0700

Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$

PACIFIC’O 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341

Fish tacos and bahn mi sandwiches are delicious lunch fare; for dinner, lobster ravioli or coconut-dusted mahi with Thai lemongrass-peanut sauce on black mochi rice. Stunning oceanfront dining. Hawai‘i Regional. BR (Sun), L, D. $$-$$$$

PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 632 Front St., Lahaina, 662-3456

See North Shore listing.

PAILOLO BAR & GRILL The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200

Poutine, sriracha chicken wings and an Australian Wagyu beef burger served al fresco. American. L, H, D, N. $–$$

PIONEER INN GRILL & BAR 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636

Views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, H, D. $–$$

PIZZA PARADISO MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929

Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Med. L, D. $–$$

MYTHS OF MAUI

PRISON STREET PIZZA

Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9119

133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332

Live music, Polynesian dance, and an island-inspired buffet

East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Italian/Pizza. L, D. $

NYLOSMAUICOM PAIA, MAUI 808-579-3354 Reservations Required

SEE MORE LISTINGS AT MAUIMAGAZINE.NET/DININGGUIDE MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » JAN-FEB 2020

G U I D E

PŪLEHU, AN ITALIAN GRILL

D I N I N G

The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200

Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with chocolate almond cake and amarena gelato. Italian. D. $$$

‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled ginger. Save room for the signature Melting Hot Chocolate Soufflé. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $$$$

ROYAL OCEAN TERRACE RESTAURANT Royal Lahaina Resort & Spa, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-3611

Breakfast offerings include loco moco and eggs Benedict Sheraton Maui, 2605 Kā‘anapali choices. Or go light with a delightful avocado toast Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600 Eclectic, globally inspired share topped with microgreens. Burgers and prime rib, too. plates combine exotic spices, Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ ingredients and flavor profiles with fresh produce from Hawai‘i farms. An equally fresh RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE cocktail program features Outlets of Maui, 900 Front St., Hawai‘i-produced spirits and Lahaina, 661-8815 house-made infusions. Kid-friendly. International. Steaks worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a B, H, D. R. $$–$$$ superb wine list earn the chain loyal fans. This venue doesn’t ROY’S stray from the flock. Several 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., tables overlook the ocean. Kā‘anapali, 669-6999 American. H, D, N. $$$$ At lunchtime, line up for a great Maui burger. For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened

ROCKSALT

SALE PEPE 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667

Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items such as pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta like Chef Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. Italian/Pizza. D. $$

SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286

Small and action-packed, D.K. Kodama’s classy sushi bar draws lines late into the night. Try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, R. $$$

THE SEA HOUSE RESTAURANT Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500

Start the day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp as the

SEE MORE LISTINGS AT MAUIMAGAZINE.NET/DININGGUIDE MAUIMAGAZINE.NET

WWW.ALOHAMIXEDPLATE.COM • 1285 Front Street, Lahaina, HI • (808) 661-3322

sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammy-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $$$

SON’Z STEAKHOUSE Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506

Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soymustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, ribeye steak, or classically prepared, line-caught mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pacific Rim/Steak. H, D, N. $$-$$$$

S AME

• ALWAY S LOC AL BREAKFAST LUNCH DINNER

STAR NOODLE 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 667-5400

RESERVATIONS WALK-INS TAKE-OUT

Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$

TAVERNA 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426

House-made pastas, agrodolce-style fish of the day, and Italian desserts that stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Taverna is dining heaven. Great wine, cocktails, and exotic craft beer, too! Italian. B, L, H, D. $$–$$$

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G U I D E

TEDDY’S BIGGER BURGERS

TIKI TERRACE RESTAURANT

335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111

Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0011

The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $

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TEPPAN-YAKI DAN Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600

Start with Oyster Dan— seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko— then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate. Japanese/Steak. D, R. $$$

THAI CHEF Old Lahaina Center, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814

James Maher S. Maui Sales Certified Sommelier

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LOOK FOR US EVERYWHERE.... Find our wines around the state at many fine resorts, restaurants and retailers.

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www.chamberswines.com 98

MAUIMAGAZINE.NET

This small, well-loved venue keeps fans coming back for commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $

Dine in casual comfort with the full-service menu, or challenge yourself to try all the offerings at the awardwinning Sunday brunch. Kid-friendly. American/ Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$

TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-1919

Thai food by Thai chefs—100 dishes from spring rolls and pad Thai to yellow curry with seafood. Yum! Thai. $–$$

‘ŪMALU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506

Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D. $$$

SOUTH SHORE 1054 TOGOSHI 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 868-0307

Chef Manabu’s twenty-five years as a sushi chef—two of them as head chef at ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN Morimoto’s Maui—shine SHAVE ICE through in fresh sashimi and 790 Front St., Lahaina, 877-3700 sushi. Closed Mondays and the Second West Maui location: Hyatt last Tuesday of each month. Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Sushi. D. $-$$ Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali

Homemade tropical-flavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Kid-friendly. Treats. $

AKAMAI COFFEE COMPANY 1325 S. Kīhei Rd., Unit 100, Kīhei, 868-3251

Coffee and espresso done right with beans from their own farm. Coffee Shop. $

BISTRO MOLOKINI Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234

Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh, local ingredients and served up in this casual, open-air eatery. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $$$

BOTERO BAR Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234

Named for Fernando Botero sculptures surrounding it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays, when a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. L, D, H, N. $

CAFÉ O’LEI 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368

Choose from macadamia-nut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites. American/ Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$

COCONUTS FISH CAFÉ Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979 Second South Maui location: Kama‘ole Shopping Center, 2463 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei.

Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D. $$

DA KITCHEN Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782

The Hawaiian plate feeds three normal appetites or one sumo-size eater. Plate-lunch favorites like chicken katsu, tempura fish, and Korean mixed plate won’t leave you wanting. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $

DUO Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000

Breakfast buffet, or à la carte? Wait—did someone mention chateaubriand? Four Seasons never disappoints. Pacific Rim. B, D. $–$$$

FABIANI’S PIZZERIA & BAKERY 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888 Second South Shore location: 34 Wailea Gateway Place, Ste. A101, Wailea, 874-1234

Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made pork-sausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. B, L, D. $$

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » JAN-FEB 2020

G U I D E

FERRARO’S BAR E RISTORANTE

Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000

For lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, H, D. $$$$

D I N I N G

OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT Happy Hour From 3 pm - 6 pm & 9 pm - 12 am 100 Wailea Ike Drive Located across from the Wailea Blue Golf Course Pro Shop

FORK & SALAD

1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675

Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastramistyle seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, gluten- and dairy-free options. International. L, D. $

FOUR SEASONS LOBBY LOUNGE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000

Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. H, D, N. $$$$

HONOLULU COFFEE COMPANY

Enjoy delicious pizza in our open-air location in the heart of Wailea. Build your own pizza made with whole wheat crust. We also offer a variety of salads, pastas, and appetizers and a fun bar area featuring twice daily drink specials. We are passionate about using

The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-6630

See West Side listing.

HUMBLE MARKET KITCHIN Wailea Marriott, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655 Chef Roy Yamaguchi hits

Takeout & Delivery: 808.874.7499

ManolisPizzaCompany.com

Lahaina Fried Soup Pohole Salad HAPA RAMEN STAR UDON AHI AVO GARLIC NOODLES Singapore Noodles Steamed Pork Buns PAD THAI malasadas SAKE COCKTAILS

it out of the ballpark with kampachi crudo, seasonal Goose Point oysters, roasted Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, tender beef short ribs, and even saimin. Perfect. Pacific Regional. B, H, D. $–$$$

HUMUHUMU Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234

‘Aipono’s 2018 Chef of the Year, Alvin Savella turns out a piquant huli huli chicken with li hing mui rub, and ramen made for royalty: half a Kona-raised lobster in a velvety red misococonut broth. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$

ISLAND GOURMET MARKETS The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055

Sushi to go, deli sandwiches, plate lunches and much more. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $

KA‘ANA KITCHEN Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234

FRESH HOUSE MADE NOODLES & ASIAN SPECIALTIES SERVING LUNCH & DINNER

286 KUPUOHI STREET AT THE TOP OF LAHAINA BUSINESS PARK

RESERVATIONS & TAKE-OUT

100

MAUIMAGAZINE.NET

808.667.5400

Start with grilled Wagyu hanger steak on green papaya salad, then charred octopus with local goat cheese. Next, Kona abalone on creamy risotto, or a modern interpretation of chicken and waffles. There’s a curated wine list with sommeliers to guide you in pairings, and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$

SEE MORE LISTINGS AT MAUIMAGAZINE.NET/DININGGUIDE

NO.

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808.667.5117

sautéed local mahi-mahi

herbed mashed potatoes, sautéed spinach, gorgonzola cheese, pancetta, chardonnay beurre blanc

www.lahainagrill.com 127 lahainaluna road, lahaina, maui, hawaii 96761

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Hours and More Information at SeaHouseMaui.com MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » JAN-FEB 2020

101

The legendary shores of Kapalua Bay await your arrival.

Discover Maui Reserve a multi-bedroom accommodation and enjoy a $150 daily resort credit, daily breakfast credit and valet parking. Explore Maui through horseback riding, helicopter tours, sunset catamaran excursions and more. Minimum three night stay required. Blackout dates and additional restrictions apply. (888) 708-3835

montagehotels.com/kapaluabay

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KIHEI CAFFE 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230

Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.? Head down to this surfer hangout and load up on banana-mac-nut pancakes, loco moco, and a cuppa joe. Café. B, L. $–$$

KŌ Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210

Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock”: three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, H, D. R. $$$

and a romaine salad tossed with lemon-feta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. B, L, H, D. $$$

LINEAGE

Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210

The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8800

World-famous “flying saucers,” Simeon family pork and peas, and whimsical ochazuketoasted rice guri-guri. Chef Sheldon Simeon’s playful take on plantation cuisine will keep you coming back for more! Pacific Rim. D. $–$$

LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE

This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kāluapork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce, and lomilomi tomato paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, H, D. $–$$

MANOLI’S PIZZA COMPANY

How to chill out in the Islands? Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with plantation-era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut pudding) and macadamia-nut ice cream. Treats. $

100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499

LEHUA LOUNGE

LONGHI’S WAILEA The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883

Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppine. Italian/Pizza. L, H, D, N. $$

Enjoy a crisp pinot grigio

Fresh-baked bread, breakfast, salads to go, plus charcuterie. Deli. B, L, D. $$

with pork sausage, and bananacream pie. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, N. $$

MULLIGANS ON THE BLUE

MATTEO’S OSTERIA

100 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 874-1131

161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466

Maui’s only Irish-owned pub serves up fish and chips, grilled bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie. Or try the chopped salad with bacon, blue cheese and tomatoes. Guinness poured properly, great music to get you foot-stompin’ happy, and sports-bar action, too. Sláinte! Irish. L, H, D, N. $–$$$

Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, H, D. $$–$$$

MISO PHAT SUSHI Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476

Kihei Kalama Shopping Center, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779

Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234

Cocktails created with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients

LUANA

THE MARKET 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 879-2433

G U I D E

Eye-catching art and Indian relics are prelude to a menu highlighting exotic spices lovingly blended from family recipes. Lunch buffet. Indian. L. D. $–$$

like lychee, liliko‘i and Hawaiian navel oranges go hand in hand with Ka‘ana Kitchen’s award-winning menu. Lounge. H. $

D I N I N G

KAMANA KITCHEN 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-7888

Sushi served on site, to go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! Japanese. L, H, D. $$

MONKEYPOD KITCHEN 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322

Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi

NALU’S SOUTH SHORE GRILL Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650

Generous portions and local ingredients served with aloha. ‘Ahi club with smoked bacon, and fresh fish and chips will have you coming back for more. Burgers? Yes! American/ Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $–$$

Urban & hip neighborhood gathering place serving Italian comfort food. Located in the heart of Kapalua Resort.

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LUNCH: Mon–Fri 11:00am–2:30pm Mid Day Menu: Everyday 2:30pm-5:00pm HAPPY HOUR: Starting @ 2:30 pm WEEKEND BRUNCH/LUNCH: Sat & Sun 10:00 am–2:00pm LATE NIGHT HAPPY HOUR: Starting @ 9:00 pm DINNER: Nightly 5:30 pm 808-667-CIAO (2426) TavernaMaui.com 2000 Village Rd, Kapalua Resort

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » JAN-FEB 2020

103

NICK’S FISHMARKET Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-7224

Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. H, D, R. $$$$

NUTCHAREE’S THAI FOOD Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840

The flavors of Thailand never get boring when Nutcharee is cooking! Start with ‘ahi laab tartare salad, or the popular crispy fish mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D. $–$$

THE RESTAURANT AT HOTEL WAILEA 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224

Produce from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients you’ll find in any restaurant. Add Chef Zach Sato’s culinary talents and a gorgeous outdoor setting, and you have a night made in heaven. European-inspired. H, D, N. $$-$$$$

ROASTED CHILES Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357

Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, H, D. $–$$

MAUIMAGAZINE.NET

1215 S. Kīhei Rd., #F, Kīhei, 446-3038

Lunch offerings include ramen, Japanese-style chicken curry, California rolls and beef burgers. Dinner goes Italian and Japanese, with pastas, flatbreads, sashimi, sushi and tempura. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $–$$$

THREE’S BAR & GRILL 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133

1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888

The Shops at Wailea, 3750

Three’s serves eggs Benedict six ways, like seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib. For lunch, try Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen; for dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Pacific Rim/Southwest. B, L, H, D. $$–$$$

Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 727-2038

Kīhei Town Center, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004

The best mac-and-cheese with black truffles, shrimp and grits with chorizo, poke bowls and burgers. If it’s football season, you can score breakfast, too. Touchdown! American. L, H, D, N. $–$$

See West Side listing.

PITA PARADISE

104

TANPOPO

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE

34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 879-7177

Maui Ocean Center Whalers Village Boardwalk SeaTurtleJewelry.com 808 298 6032

Start with fresh poke nestled in crunchy sesame-miso cones, and move on to the exotic notes of anise, cinnamon, and pineapple-caramelized pork chop. Chef Peleg will have you singing his praises. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$–$$$

PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT

The same yummy menu that for Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, years has hooked surfers and 874-8880. families in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei, See West Side listing. too. (See North Shore listing.)  SANSEI SEAFOOD THE PINT & CORK RESTAURANT & SUSHI The Shops at Wailea, 3750 BAR

Ocean Activist, Jewelry designer, & hot glass artist Amy Wakingwolf fire-sculpts stunning gold and silver Honu with shimmering ocean scenes inside their shells. Her art is dedicated to helping and protecting sea turtles, which is why she adopts a baby sea turtle every time she makes a sale of her signed and numbered exquisite, miniature works of art.

SPAGO Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000

Start with classic spinach tiropitas with caramelized onion, feta, mozzarella and tzatziki wrapped in phyllo dough; then move on to kabobs, luscious pastas and gyros. Baklava ice-cream cake, too. Mediterranean. L, H, D. $–$$$

SARENTO’S ON THE BEACH 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555

Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, L, H, D, R. $–$$$

SEASCAPE RESTAURANT Maui Ocean Center, 192 S. Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 2707068

Adjacent to an awardwinning aquarium, Seascape serves harbor views with a hearty side of aloha. PIZZA MADNESS Mahimahi sandwiches with 1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 270-9888 fresh cabbage slaw, halfThis family-style restaurant pound burgers and veggie serves Cobb salad, hot and selections. Save room for cold deli sandwiches, Maui Mud Pie: coffee ice award-winning pizza, and cream topped with fudge. pasta, too. American. L (daily), H, D Italian/Pizza. L, D. $-$$ (Sat/Sun only). $$–$$$

TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT & BAR The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983

Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, N. $–$$

ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei

See West Side listing.

CENTRAL BISTRO CASANOVA 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 873-3650

This downtown bistro serves paella for two, fresh-cut French fries, and burrata Caprese, along with many fresh pasta dishes. Best pau hana (happy hour) in Kahului. Mediterranean. L, H, D. $–$$

D I N I N G

MAUI FRESH STREATERY

1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073

MauiFreshStreatery.com, 344-7929

Same great fare as the South Shore location, served beside a links golf course overlooking West Maui’s mountain. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $$

‘Aipono’s 2019 Chef of the Year Kyle Kawakami rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L. $

DA KITCHEN Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782

See South Shore listing.

FORK & SALAD Pu‘unene Shopping Center, 120 Ho‘okele St. Unit 330, Kahului. 793-3256

See South Shore listing.

MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-CUPS (2877)

Pastries, muffins, salads, sandwiches and wraps, and lox and bagels made to order. Fresh-roasted coffee beans set this experience above the average. “Happy Cappy Hour” from 2 to 6 p.m. Coffee Shop. B, L, H. $

THE MILL HOUSE AT MAUI TROPICAL PLANTATION 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333

Dine at the coffee shop, restaurant, or weekend chef’s table, and discover some of Maui’s most creative culinary fare, from creamy coconut jook with Kula Farm green beans, to beef ragu gnocchi with thyme curd. Great desserts, too! Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D. $–$$$

ONLY ONO Kahului, 777-9026

Crispy-skin Chinese-style roast pork and duck, bao pork buns, plate lunches smoked brisket,

too! Only delicious! Location varies; download menu and schedule at OnlyOnoBBQ.com. Chinese–American. L, D. $

POI BY THE POUND 430 Kele St., Kahului, 283-9381

Eat like a local. So ‘ono! Hawaiian. B, L, D. $

G U I D E

CAFÉ O’LEI, DUNES AT MAUI LANI

A SAIGON CAFE 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560

Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot, the Vietnamese burrito, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D. $

SAM SATO’S 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 244-7124

This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian B, L. $

THAI MEE UP Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369

Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles. Curry, too! Thai, Food Truck. L, D. $

100% Extra Virgin Maui Olive Oil Unfiltered, cold pressed Grown & hand harvested on Haleakalā, Maui Artisanal processing Visit our Farmstand in Kula on Waipoli Road

www.MauiOlive.com Info@MauiOlive.com

Two exciting farm tours in one unique setting

GOURMET LUNCH

SEED to CUP

Explore our gardens and enjoy a gourmet lunch prepared in your presence with freshly harvested natural produce.

Learn about the growing and roasting of coffee beans and conclude with the “perfect cappuccino” .

TOURS ARE WEEKDAYS 8:30 a.m. and 10:30 a.m.

O’o Farm is the exclusive farm for Pacific’O Restaurant in Lahaina By Reservation only: 808.667.4341 • www.oofarm.com

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G U I D E

TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE

UMI MAUI

LA PROVENCE

395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 893-0026

1951 Vineyard St., Wailuku, 269-1802

5355 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313

This sushi bar brings creative presentations to old Wailuku town. Japanese. D, $–$$

Perfect croissants, fruit tarts, and blueberry-mango scones. On weekends, muscle past long distance cyclists to order a Benedict or salmon-pesto crêpe. French/Bakery. Cash only. B (Wed-Fri), BR (Sat-Sun), L (Wed-Fri), D (Thur-Sun). $

D I N I N G

See West Side listing.

TIN ROOF MAUI

360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753

Sheldon Simeon of Top Chef fame builds memorable kau kau bowls filled with his savory offerings: furikakecrusted seared salmon; Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter; and a killer spicy fried chicken sandwich. Pacific Rim. L. $

TJ’S WAREHOUSE

WAILUKU COFFEE COMPANY 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259

Ice cream, salads, sandwiches and espresso, all served in a LUMERIA’S relaxed and eclectic setting. WOODEN CRATE Coffee Shop. B, L. 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579-8877

875 Alua St., Wailuku, 244-7311

Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and a hot line of daily specials, like potato croquettes, nishime and poke, too. Asian. B, L. $

ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku

UPCOUNTRY GRANDMA’S COFFEE HOUSE 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140

The eggs Benedict and madefrom-scratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion. Coffee Shop/Snacks. B, L, $–$$

See West Side listing.

Fresh, locally caught fish and other healthy fare highlight a menu that changes daily. Produce grown on Lumeria’s grounds are the basis for some of the garden dishes served at this charming retreat. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R. $$–$$$$

O‘O FARM 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341,

to reserve a culinary tour. Learn about organic

gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and fresh-roasted coffee in this bucolic setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L. $$$$

ULUPALAKUA RANCH STORE & GRILL 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561 Across the road from MauiWine, find great deli fare, hot-off-the-grill lamb burger with tzatziki, grass-fed venison or beef burgers. Plus homestyle chili and rice, or kālua-pork plate lunch. American. L, D. $

NORTH SHORE CHOICE HEALTH BAR 11 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia, 661-7711

See West Side listing.

COLLEEN’S 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211

Slip into a comfy booth and enjoy a roasted eggplant sndwich on homemade bread. The pizza is a wellloved standard. Kid-friendly. American/ Pizza. B, L, H, D. $$

FLATBREAD COMPANY 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989

Big booths, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$

MAMA’S FISH HOUSE 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488

Mama’s is famous for its heartstirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine. Each detail evokes old-time island hospitality; in 2018, this Maui institution became a James Beard nominee for Best Restaurant. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, RR. $$–$$$$

NUKA 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939

Romantic Oceanfront Dining On One Of Maui’s Premier Beaches

Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. The tempura shrimp udon is light and crispy. Save room for black-sesame or green-tea ice cream. Japanese. D. $$–$$$

NYLOS 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354

Fresh out of the gate, this fine-dining restaurant has been garnering rave reviews on the coconut wireless for its menu and casual ambiance. International. L, D, R. $$$

PAIA BOWLS 43 Hana Hwy., Paia, 214-6504

RESERVATIONS 808 875 7555

2980 SOUTH KIHEI RD. KIHEI, MAUI, HI 96753

FEATURING BRUNCH, HAPPY HOUR & DINNER DAILY

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Get amped with healthy fruit and granola acai bowls, avocado toast and nitro coffee. You’ll feel like you entered the green room with add-ons like ashwaganda, cordyceps and brain dust in your favorite Blue Majik smoothie. And you’ll be waffling the surf after your iced matcha latte. S Surfer fare. B,L. $

PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030

Huge slabs of fish served

with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $

WAILUKU COFFEE CO Aloha Aina Center., 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 868-3229

Downtown goes “county” with a second location, still serving the same tasty salads, sandwiches, ice cream and espresso. Coffee Shop. B, L. $

HĀNA BAREFOOT CAFÉ 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732

Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or mahimahi plate lunch to go. Pacific Rim. B, L. $

THE PRESERVE KITCHEN + BAR Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401 Hāna-sourced fish and produce ground an original menu. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juices and sours. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R. $–$$$

Fine Handcrafted Jewelry

18k pendant with 12.61ct Solid Black opal and 1.05ctw diamonds. Designer: Brian Thompson 3655 Baldwin Ave, Makawao HI 96768 808.573.5400 | MauiMasterJewelers@Hawaiiantel.net

Just steps from the water’s edge. Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!

Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com

The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours. 505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com

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W H O

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;A I P O N O WINE DINNER

W H O ' S

HUMUHUMU O CTO B E R 24, 20 19 B E N E F I T FO R U H - M AU I C O L L EG E 'S M AU I FO O D I N N OVAT I O N C E N T E R Shannon & Brian Ward

Robin Werner, Jeannine Angelique, Melissa Meier, John Meier

Becky & Chris Speere, Gary Albitz

Don Marceaux, Jenn Yost

The view from Humuhumu

Chef Alvin Savella, Diane Haynes Woodburn, Marco Marini

Henry Hegele & Paula Hegele

Jane Ferrante & John Moore

Mercedes Madaras, Erin Ford, Thomas Kafsack

Chris Speere, Tiare Miller, Chad Miller, Charles Fredy

Susie & David Orr

Diane Morgan, Wanda Marshall from Canada

Steve Bulger, Lugene Souza-Bulger, and Michaela Bulger

Beth Mathias & Joy Galatro

H AWA I I A N A I R L I N ES MADE I N M AU I

C O U N T Y F E ST I VA L N OV E M B E R 2, 20 19

Todd & Melanie Heustis

Nancy Sulenta, Diane Martin, and Bridget Tisinger

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THE MAGAZINE FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE MAUI SUBSCRIBE.MAUIMAGAZINE.NET 844-808-MAUI (6284)

HOT

THE

L I S T

OUR LATEST CURATED LIST OF MUSTSEE-ANDDO EVENTS

JAN 11- MAR 31

LEGENDS OF THE BAY

Maui pro surfers Dusty Payne, Kai Barger, and Tanner Hendrickson have all proved their mettle at this annual two-day Honolua Bay competition. (Dates are TBD based on wave conditions). Register to compete at HSA.SurfSignUp.com, or watch the action from the sidelines. For info, call the Hawai‘i Surfing Association hotline: 385-2221

White oak feather, hand-carved by Miriam Carpenter.

01.26

3pm

BROADWAY POPS Jodi Benson is the Tony Award-winning actress who voiced the character of Ariel in The Little Mermaid. There’s a good chance she’ll belt out a Disney song or two when she performs with the Maui Pops Orchestra. Maui Arts & Cultural Center, 1 Cameron Way, Kahului; tickets at MauiArts.org and 242-SHOW

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01.05 OPENING RECEPTION

THE WOODWORKER’S JOURNEY: CONCEPT TO CREATION January 7–February 23 Hawai‘i and mainland artists push the limits for this invitational exhibit showcasing mostly-wood utilitarian and conceptual pieces. Maui Arts & Cultural Center, 1 Cameron Way, Kahului; MauiArts.org

OPENING RECEPTION

JANUARY 17 2020 ANNUAL JURIED EXHIBITION January 17–February 21 Hundreds of submitted works of art—sculpture, paintings, jewelry, photos, and more—but only eighty made the cut. Meet the artists (and judge the jurors) at the opening reception. Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center, 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560, HuiNoeau.com

}

Join Maui Stargazing for a science-based sunset and stargazing tour at HaleakalaĚ&#x201E; Summit. View deep space objects through Mauiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest portable telescope to see the visible planets, nebulae and star clusters of the Milky Way and galaxies beyond!

ASA ELLISON

HOT

THE

L I S T

JAN 25, 5PM

BUY BACK THE BEACH: MĀLAMA KĪPUKA 17,500. That’s how many acres of coastal, historical and cultural sites, and farms and ranches the Hawaiian Islands Land Trust protects across the state. Help the cause while having fun at this benefit dinner at Old Lāhaina Lū‘au. Tickets: 244-5263, Hilt.org/special-events-calendar

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JAN 25 | FEB 29 | MAR 28 8am–NOON

THE GREAT WHALE COUNT Help the Pacific Whale Foundation gather important data on Maui’s humpbacks. All you need is a good eye (or binoculars) to take part in one of the world’s longest running citizen-scientist research projects. Registration is required: MauiWhaleFestival.org/GreatWhaleCount

JAN31 CHINESE NEW YEAR CELEBRATION

10am–7pm (Chinese lion dance at 5 p.m.) 2020 is the Year of the Rat. The critter symbolizes wisdom, and that’s nothing to squeak about. Celebrate at this family-friendly event—and be sure to feed the lion for good luck! Wo Hing Temple Museum, 858 Front St., Lahaina; 661-5553, LahainaRestoration.org/ Wo-Hing-Museum

02/22 ‘AIPONO WINE DINNER AT THE FAIRMONT KEA LANI, MAUI Reception at 5:30pm, family-style dinner at 6pm Chef Tylun Pang of Kō Restaurant will host February’s ‘Aipono wine dinner, part of MNKO's wine dinner series benefiting UH-Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program. Each delicious course is expertly paired with world-class wines. Reservations: 875-2210 (limited to thirty guests). To learn more, visit MauiMagazine.net/AiponoDinners

Find a wealth of activities and entertainment at MauiMagazine.net/maui-events.

I T I N E R A R Y STORY BY L E H I A A PA N A | ILLUSTRATION BY C . M . B U T Z E R

PERFECT DAY Follow your local guide on an itinerary that combines adventure and luxury. Hint: Valentine’s Day is almost here, so grab your sweetie and go!

Sea House Restaurant 7am Our readers got it right

when they voted this eatery “Best Oceanfront Dining” at the 2019 ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards. Set along the intimate crescent shore of Nāpili Bay, it’s the perfect place to ease into the day. The menu's Moloka‘i sweet potato frittata and eggs Benedict are equally enticing. NapiliKai.com/dining

Kapalua Ziplines

8:30am The thrills begin well before your first leap, as reaching the course requires a rugged ATV ride and walking across Hawai‘i’s tallest and longest suspension bridge. Sightseeing then reaches new heights as you zoom effortlessly above Kapalua’s forested uplands. The seven-line tour offers the most airtime of any zipline on Maui, and tandem lines throughout the course makes

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this the perfect adventure for two. Panoramic multi-island views throughout are a bonus. KapaluaZiplines.com

Taverna

1:30pm Acclaimed chef Roger Stettler leans on his Italian heritage to create this menu that earned 2019 ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards for Best Italian Cuisine and Best Cocktails. The rustic, open-air restaurant takes a more relaxed approach at lunchtime, dishing hearty soups, salads, and sandwiches piled high with fresh local ingredients. Belly up to the lively bar or request an outdoor table to enjoy sweeping ocean and mountain views. TavernaMaui.com

Spa Montage

3:30pm This nature-inspired spa features an outdoor infinity pool, open-air waterfall showers, and private indoor-outdoor treatment rooms. The Maui Romance treatment (see

story page 50) is a chance to connect in comfort, beginning with an outdoor, coconut milk bath that is perfectly private. A fruit platter and tropical flower arrangements set the mood, and as for the side-by-side massages—what’s not to love? MontageHotels.com/ SpaMontage/KapaluaBay

Banyan Tree

7pm This farm-to-fork restaurant features surprising ingredients, including pohā (cape gooseberry), chayote (squash), and calamansi (citrusy fruit). Born in France and raised in the Philippines, Chef Bella Toland transforms these culinary wonders into dishes that reflect the island’s local flavors and her own ethnic background. Opt for a traditional dinner setting, or get cozy next to one of the surrounding firepits. Time it right, and enjoy the nightly fire-knife dance at 7:30pm near the restaurant entrance. RitzCarlton.com/ en/hotels/kapalua-maui/dining

Serving Hawaii Is Our Business

Pasha Hawaii delivers the broadest scope of ocean transportation services between Hawaii and the Mainland. Our fully enclosed, roll-on/ roll-off vessel M/V Jean Anne provides superior protection for cargo of all sizes and direct service between the Mainland and Maui. Find out more at pashahawaii.com.

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