Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine May-June 2020 by Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine

MEET MAUI’S CHEF OF THE YEAR

SPRING-SUMMER 2020

In the Peace of

HALEAKALĀ Shaped By Stone

THE LIFE AND WORK OF HOAKA DELOS REYES

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Food, Glorious Food OUR READERS VOTED & HERE’S THE LIST OUR GUIDE TO THE 100 BEST RESTAURANTS, BARS, CAFÉS, FOOD TRUCKS, LŪ‘AU & SHAVE ICE STANDS ON MAUI

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Located at Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, Japengo offers a gastronomic adventure you’ll want to relive over and over. Fresh sushi, modern Asian-Pacific flavors and local island ingredients come together through share plates and indulgent entrees created by chef duo, Gevin Utrillo and Masa Hattori. With romantic ocean views at sunset, an energetic sushi bar, and garden lounge with live entertainment, Japengo has a seat for everyone for every occasion.

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CONTENTS 36 ISLAND LIVING

ADVENTURE In the House of the Sun Taller than Everest, quieter than the Mojave, Haleakalā has a power all its own Story by Lily Stone

HAWAIIAN SOUL Carved in Stone The life of kālai pōhaku Hoaka Delos Reyes has been shaped by the medium he shapes Story by Shannon Wianecki

ISLAND BUSINESS A Recipe for Success The Maui Food Innovation Center gives homegrown entrepreneurs the ingredients they need

AT HOME The Great Outdoors Three open-air kitchens—two in Kula and one in Mākena—bring the inside out Story by Sarah Ruppenthal

ON THE COVER: For our readers beyond Maui, our cover image this issue is of a hiker on the Keonehe‘ehe‘e trail, headed deeper into the vastness of Haleakalā. For our readers on island, it's a plate of award-winning sushi from Miso Phat Sushi. Above: He ali‘i ka ‘āina, he kauā ke kanaka (Land is the chief, man is the servant): Looking out over the valley at the summit of Haleakalā.

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HALEAKALĀ: CHRIS ARCHER; DINING: RYAN SIPHERS

Story by Sarah Ruppenthal

CONTENTS DINING

DEPARTMENTS

All of our winners in forty categories:

‘AIPONO SPECIAL AWARDS 2020 ‘Aipono Special Awards

gold, silver, and honorable mentions

Lifetime Achievement: Peter Merriman

Friend of Agriculture: Greg Gifford

THE 2020 ‘AIPONO AWARDS!

BEHIND THE SCENES

The backstories on this issue's stories

Excellence in Sustainability:

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

CHEF OF THE YEAR On Ponte

Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate

One Canoe

Excellence in Sustainability

by Diane Haynes Woodburn

Meet the 2020 ‘Aipono-winning

Restaurant: Moku Roots

chef, our youngest ever

Story by Becky Speere

TALK STORY: DAY IN THE LIFE You Count

DINING FEATURE The Good Stuff

And so does everyone else

BEST OF THE BEST Dee-Lish

Maui’s children are learning

for the Census 2020

to make better food choices

Story by Paul Wood

Our food editor dishes on the

Story by Becky Speere

dishes she loves at ‘Aipono-

winning restaurants Story by Becky Speere

TALK STORY: IN SEASON Delicate Beauties

MAUI MIXOLOGY Rummed Up

Strung together, ‘ilima flowers

Getting into the spirit of the mai tai

make an exquisite lei

Story by Becky Speere

Story by Shannon Wianecki

@MAUINŌKA‘OI Tag, We're It!

GREAT FINDS Eating Out Compiled by Shanoaleigh Marson

108

WHO’S WHO

Seen making the scene on Maui

110

HOT LIST

What’s happening where, when, and with whom

114

PERFECT DAY Land and Sea Exploring Maui’s Upcountry and North Shore from the ground up

RYAN SIPHERS

Story by Lehia Apana

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39 TH A N NUAL

JUNE 5-7, 2020 MAUI • HAWAII

Join Host Master Sommelier Michael Jordan, MS, CWE and a contingent of world-renowned winemakers, celebrity chefs and Maui’s own culinary stars at oceanfront galas, cooking demonstrations and interactive wine tastings.

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BIG ISLAND MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » NOV-DEC 2019

Publisher

Diane Haynes Woodburn

Group Publisher Michael Haynes Creative Director Paul B. Morris

Senior Editor Rita Goldman

EDITORIAL

Contributing Editor Lily Stone Dining Editor Becky Speere Home & Garden Editor Sarah Ruppenthal Great Finds Editor Shanoaleigh Marson Website Manager Adelle Lennox

Associate Art Director Shanoaleigh Marson

Account Manager Brooke Tadena Advertising Sales Representative Felix Sunny D’Souza Advertising Sales Representative Elisa Jae Advertising Sales 808-242-8331

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CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION

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Subscription Inquiries toll free: 844-808-MAUI (6284) or visit Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net National MagNet, National MagNet, Disticor Magazine Distribution Services

Hawai‘i MagNet In Room Maui Circulation CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Lehia Apana, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere, Shannon Wianecki, Paul Wood CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Chris Archer, Shanoaleigh Marson, Mieko Horikoshi, Bailey Roberts, Ryan Siphers, Leslie Turner CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR

C. M. Butzer, Jennifer Kramer E-mail Address Info@MauiMagazine.net Moving? Send address changes to Haynes Publishing Group, 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793. Please note: If the post office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, Haynes Publishing has no further obligation, unless we receive a corrected address within one year of that notification.

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, and Eating & Drinking 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; 808-242-8331. ISSN 2473-5299 (print)| ISSN 2473-5469 (online) ©2019 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly U.S. subscriptions $21; Canadian subscriptions $29; foreign subscriptions $40. Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net

Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi—an environmental leader in the industry whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

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C O N T R I B U T O R S

Jennifer Kramer, who illustrated our story on the 2020 Census in this issue, is a self-taught artist and illustrator who lives in Upcountry Maui. “I was excited to illustrate the census article,” she says, “because it was an opportunity to showcase the immense diversity on our island. Having been born and raised on Maui, I’ve experienced the huge mixture of peoples and cultures here and that diversity has influenced my art enormously.” Jennifer has been using ink, paint, and clay since she was a young child. See more of her work on Instagram @jennifer.kramer.art. “You Count,” page 26

Chris Archer, who photographed “In the House of the Sun” for this issue, grew up in rural Michigan, spending most of his time in woods and creeks, and watching nature documentaries on the Discovery Channel and NatGeo. “I was always intrigued with the cinematography,” he recalls, “and with the dedication the photographers had to capturing incredible scenes.” In 2010, having never been to Hawai‘i, he bought a one-way ticket to Maui. One night, lying in the grass under the stars in Hāna, he saw the Milky Way for the first time. “That's when I realized I needed to learn photography,” he says. “I’ve been in love with it ever since. Time-lapse and landscape photography are my favorite way to spend my free time.” “In the House of the Sun,” page 36

BEHIND THE SCENES

What did it take for you to get this story? Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi’s Dining Editor Becky Speere estimates she dined out 130 times in 2019, and the meals she ate across the island inform her article “Dee-lish”—one of several she penned for this year’s Food Issue. “Being able to participate and help get the word out about great dining opportunities on Maui is a pleasure,” Becky says, noting that her most memorable meal last year was the Kamayan dinner at Star Noodle. “Now go forth and EAT!” When she’s not perusing a menu or writing about food, Becky can be found on her four-acre farm where she grows dozens of crops including exotics like pink atemoya and white sapote along with standards like avocados and apple bananas. “Dee-lish,” page 78

Shanoaleigh Marson, who photographed the ‘ilima flower for this issue’s In Season column, is the associate art director of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi. “I called Maui Native Nursery in Kula,” she says of her quest to find the flowers. “When I got there, their main plant propagator Michelle Smith picked me up in a Gator, and we headed to the gulch where the ‘ilima was growing. The nursery had beehives next to the gulch and the bees really added to the experience: It was beautiful to watch them visit the small yellow flowers.” “Delicate Beauties,” page 28

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N O T E P U B L I S H E R ' S

ONE CANOE

We are all in the same boat— and strongest when we paddle together

t didn't look good. My husband was pulling the truck up to the beach parking lot, where we would soon be unloading our oneman canoes (or one-woman, as the case may be) and launching into the ocean for a paddle. A certain cure for uncertain times. “It’s windy,” I said, my euphemism for “I’m scared.” Jamie actually took a moment to consider and then retorted, “It’s fine.” I looked at the rippling sea with trepidation and hoped for a reprieve. “This is the kind of day when you get in—and paddle straight out,” my husband advised, watching the waves for just the right moment. “Now!” I jumped in and paddled hard, straight out. No time to think, no time to stress, nothing to do but go. My little boat was gliding forward, over the rollers, and finally into safety past the breakers. Turning my canoe parallel to the shoreline, I headed into the wind. I had hoped for sunny skies and smooth water—but today it was dreary, overcast, the water chopped and splashed in my face. What if the wind gets worse? I thought. What if I huli (tip over)? Soon Jamie caught up with me and passed me. I followed in that rhythmic meditation that slowly, surely, takes me out of my head . . . and into the connective spirit of the Islands. I found myself smiling. I thought of my parents, my aunts, uncles, grandparents—all the old ones who are passed. I wondered about their struggles, their constant movement forward into the wind. I felt a sweet calm in their presence. Ahead, Jamie had stopped in wait for me. “Maybe we should turn around,” I suggested hopefully, once I had caught up to him. “No way,” he said. “You can do this,” I heard my inner voice pushing me forward. I began to think of this issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi and all the people who, through the current crisis, every day push forward to accomplish what yesterday might have seemed impossible. In this, our annual Food Issue, you will find more than a hundred ‘Aipono Award-winning restaurants as voted by you, 24

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our readers. You will meet ‘Aipono Lifetime Achievement Award-winner Chef Peter Merriman and the youngest Chef of the Year to date, Taylor Ponte, born and raised on Maui. In “The Good Stuff,” Becky Speere introduces us to Kids Cook with Heart, a program working with kids to teach them healthier and wiser ways to nourish themselves. And in ”A Recipe for Success,” you’ll learn how UH Maui is helping food entrepreneurs fulfill their dreams. If it is beauty you seek, take refuge in the surreal and glorious tranquility found in the landscape of Haleakalā crater. And finally, immerse yourself in the incredible art of Hoaka Delos Reyes, a carver whose relationship with stone has something to teach all of us about what is essential in this life. Jamie once again stopped his canoe and let me catch up. “Ready to go back?” I asked. “Sure,” he agreed. As I turned my canoe to feel the wind on my back, I felt a sense of peace and accomplishment. “You can put in if you’re too tired,” Jamie offered, perhaps feeling just a little guilty for pushing my limits. “No thanks,” I said with real confidence. “I can do it.” As this issue goes to press, the president has declared a national emergency due to the COVID-19 virus. We are told things will get worse before they get better. No matter where in the world you may live, we understand—we are all in the same canoe. And we are strongest when we paddle together. Mahalo to all of you who continue to paddle into the wind, every day, to keep us safe. A hui hou,

Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

MIEKO HORIKOSHI

TALK STORY C E N S U S U S

YOU COUNT

And so does everyone else—Census 2020 is now underway on Maui STORY BY PAUL WOOD ILLUSTRATIONS BY JENNIFER KRAMER

n the County of Maui, who has the most to gain from being counted in the 2020 US Census? Ironically, it’s the people who might feel that they don’t count. So says Jeanette Pacheco, the Census Bureau’s media specialist for the nation’s far-west regions, which include the Pacific. “There’s a lot at stake for everyone,” Pacheco says, “but especially for communities who really need vital programs.” These needs include allocation of funds for local schools, Head Start programs, SNAP (supplemental nutrition for the poor 26

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and hungry), Medicaid coverage, not tent-flaps in order to make “a fair and to mention ambulances and other accurate count. So that no one will be emergency services. Says Pacheco, denied a voice.” anyone living on Maui who might Pacheco says that the Census Bureau want such services ought to rush to be is also required by law to protect all counted. She includes residents who information. “Census employees never might worry about their immigration ask for a social security number,” she status, recent arrivals living twelve in a says. “The census never reports to any room, and homeless people government agencies, not the sleeping on cardboard on CIA, the FBI, ICE, or HUD.” The 2020 census aims to capture a the shore. Census workers In fact, she says, she and all true representation will come walking around other census employees take of Maui’s citizens. Above, a portrait of knocking on doors, dorms, an oath to protect information Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi’s nursing homes, and sources. The U.S. Constitution staff and advisors.

requires a census every ten years to determine how many people live in the country. The task seems simple, but of course it’s not. In 1790 the combined population of the largest cities in the United States would barely have filled one of our contemporary football stadiums. Today, the U.S. population is well north of 310 million, says Pacheco. The first known census taken in the Hawaiian Islands happened in 1832 under the government of the Kingdom; the population that year was figured to be 130,313. Subsequent censuses in the Kingdom were conducted in 1836, 1850, 1853 and 1860 and then every six years after 1866. After the United States claimed Hawai‘i as a territory, the first Territorial Census took place in 1900; the population that year was figured to be 154,001. The Territory was divided into counties in 1905 and the 1910 census provided a count of the County of Maui (including Moloka‘i): 30,456 (out of a Territory-wide total of 191,909). By 2010, the last year a census was taken, Maui County’s population stood at 154,834 and all of the Islands at 1,360,301. While most counting is now done through the mail or by phone, the 2020 census is the first to also operate on the Internet. The online site is fluent in twelve languages and offers guides in fifty-nine languages. Census workers will only knock on your door if you haven’t self-responded. The law requires the Census Bureau to deliver apportionment counts to the President and Congress by December 2020 and then to send redistricting counts to the states by March 31, 2021. This year a significant push is being made to encourage all Hawaiians and other native Pacific Islanders—the “HN/ PI” populations—to participate in the census. A new online music video— search “2020 Census This Is Me”— melds great performances by Pacific Islanders who are seen performing not only in Hawai‘i but also in such Polynesian diaspora venues as Telegraph Hill, Venice Beach, and Brooklyn. A diverse collection of artists—including Kalenakū, Raiatea Helm, and Amy Hānaiali‘i Gilliom—encourages all Islanders in the United States to raise their voices to affirm their presence.

The census is for our family. Stretching across the United States, we are one family—your voice matters, your community matters. The 2020 Census informs decisions about critical funding for the public services to help our families flourish, and the infrastructure that helps our communities thrive. Your responses are confidential and cannot be used by any other government agency. It’s not too late. Shape our future. Start here at

2020CENSUS.GOV Paid for by U.S. Census Bureau

NHPI_HI_Kealii_MNKO_4.625x9.67_R_FINAL.indd 1

3/11/20 1:53 PM

TALK STORY I N

S E A S O N

Differing forms of ‘ilima grow in differing island environments—in the mountains, on the coast, in the forest— and their flowers vary across the landscape.

DELICATE BEAUTIES Strung together, the tissue-thin flowers of the ‘ilima bush make an exquisite lei

STORY BY SHANNON WIANECKI PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHANOALEIGH MARSON

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n the epic Hawaiian tale Hi‘iakaikapoliopele, there is a scene in which the goddess Hi‘iaka watches young women diving into the sea, all of them wearing garlands of bright yellow ‘ilima flowers, their lei dazzling against the clear blue water. These days lei ‘ilima are rarely seen—and that’s a trend that should be reversed because ‘ilima (Sida fallax) is one of the few native Hawaiian plants that’s relatively easy to find. The

hardy indigenous shrub is characterized by silvery heart-shaped leaves and shiny dime-sized blossoms. It belongs to the hibiscus family and grows wild in hot, dry environments. Landscapers often plant it in resorts and alongside roads. In days past, Hawaiians planted ‘ilima bushes near their homes to have the plant at the ready for making lei and herbal medicine. Mothers fed their babies the tender ‘ilima buds and elders steeped the bark for steam baths. ‘Ilima is the official lei flower of the island of O‘ahu, and according to master lei maker Marie McDonald, the five-petaled flower was the favorite of Queen Emma— which might explain how the blossom got its reputation for being royal. To make a single strand ‘ilima lei requires one hundred flowers, and since the petals are so petite, lei makers like to combine two or three strands. Handpicking and stringing together hundreds of tissue-thin petals is not easy work but the result can be stunning. Pierced and strung through the center, ‘ilima flowers resemble the golden feathers of the mamo, a spectacular Hawaiian forest bird whose plumage was used for making capes for royalty; today, sadly, the mamo is extinct. Summer is the season to brush up on lei-making skills. Several celebrations—starting with Lei Day on May 1st and followed by King Kamehameha’s birthday on June 11th—require heaps of flower garlands. And if you happen to know any high school seniors, you’d better get busy preparing for their leiladen commencement ceremonies. A lei ‘ilima—a symbol of good luck—is a perfect gift for a graduate.

A P O LY N E S I A N F E A S T & S H O W A musical and culinary journey to Hawai‘i, Aotearoa, Tahiti and Samoa.

AOTEAROA Land of the long white cloud, Aotearoa – New Zealand, is home to the Maori people.

SAMOA “The cradle of Polynesia,” literally the sacred center of its fiery soul.

HAWAI‘I We begin in our beautiful island home of Hawai‘i with our chants, songs and hula .

TAHITI The land of intrigue and romance, has beckoned explorers from around the world.

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love is freedom. # #hanamaui #beautifuldestinations

@anadventurefilledlife We saw a mama and calf having some fun off in the distance and figured if they wanted to say hello, they would. And boy, oh boy, did they. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU.

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It’s official: Our readers love Maui as much as we do. Thanks to everyone who tagged us—here are a few of our favorites. To join in, follow and tag us on Instagram @MauiMag. Aloha everyone! #MauiMag

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Transported back from London to paradise and I’m thinking about how lucky I am right now. #maui #beautiful #instapic

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Falling in love with the ocean more and more every day. #oceanartist #surferslife #mauiphotographer

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experience the

Experience authentic Hawaiian entertainment at ‘Aha‘aina Wailea, A Grand Wailea Lū‘au. On these enchanted shores see the story of this ancient land, Honua‘ula. Meet Pele, goddess of ﬁre, and Kananaka, the mermaid of Maui, as you take a journey back in time to a place of chant and hula where the history of our island home comes to life.

Oceanfront at Grand Wailea, A Waldorf Astoria Resort • Evening Shows Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday & Saturday • Check in at 4pm, pre-show begins at 5pm • All you can eat buﬀet dinner • Hosted Bar • Imu Ceremony • Premium & Standard Seating *Dates subject to change. Advance reservations required.

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Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine presents

THE 2020 ‘AIPONO RESTAURANT AWARDS:

“HUNGER GAMES” THE VOTES ARE IN . . . OUR CHAMPIONS ARE CHOSEN

In Hawaiian, ‘ai means “to eat” and pono means “excellence.” The ‘Aipono Gala promotes excellence and distinction among the island’s most talented chefs and leading restaurants. The ‘Aipono Gala and ‘Aipono Wine Dinner series benefit UH–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program. To keep us all safe during the epidemic, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi has postponed the 2020 ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards Gala for later in the year. Until this crisis is over, and we can honor the island’s outstanding culinary industry together, please stay home and stay healthy. Visit our website, mauimagazine.net/aipono2020, for updates. We look forward to celebrating with all of you, this fall at

THE RITZ-CARLTON KAPALUA LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT ‘AIPONO AWARD HONOREE PETER MERRIMAN A TRIBUTE TO OUR SPONSORS:

THE HUNGER GAMES

F I N D S

Feat of Clay

G R E A T

These hand-thrown canisters are made from black clay and stand three or four inches tall. Use them to cart your herbs and spices with you when you're out on an expedition. Homme By Nature, 3643 Baldwin Avenue, Makawao, 572-3456

Tiffin Time

Setting the Scene If you must use something other than your fingers, these utensils of mother-of-pearl and cowrie shells may do the job. As environmental awareness grows, artistic and reusable cutlery is also being made from bamboo and wood. Pearl Butik, 71 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia, 579-8899

EATING OUT

Stainless-steel tiffin sets have been used in India since long before plastic took over the world. These sets, easy to seal and quick to clean, are functional, attractive a nd a friend to the earth. Down to Earth, 305 Dairy Road, Kahului, 877-2661

Picnic in style with these additions to your basket

Cetacean Top

Put It There Maui artist Chelsea Briggin makes coasters from resin in a variety of vivid colors and free-flowing forms and sells them in sets of four. She can often be found at island craft fairs and also online. society6.com/cbsarasvati, 740-3000

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A metal stopper to secure anything left in the bottle— and a reminder of the extraordinary creatures who each winter make the long migration to the waters of Maui. Paia Mercantile, 83 Hāna Highway, Pā‘ia, 579-6388

SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS

Enjoy the hospitality of Maui’s plantation era at the historic Pioneer Inn on Lahaina Harbor. Plenty of Places to Shop with over 14 Retailers ∏ Restaurants Maui Memories

Banyan Treats

Bad Ass Coffee Co.

Best Western Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina (808) 661-3636 www.pioneerinnmaui.com

In the House of Taller than Everest, quieter than the Mojave, HaleakalÄ has a power all its own Story By LILY STONE

Photography By CHRIS ARCHER

the Sun Haleakalā is the great definer of Maui— its immense bulk rising up out of the ocean, the huge weight ascending ten thousand feet upwards from the sea, three-quarters of the island made by its existence. And yet with all of its grandeur and all of its variety—the leeward arid slopes, the windward dense forests, the unearthly terrain of its summit—what we see is such a small part of what is. Just five percent of Haleakalā stands above the sea. The vast majority of the mountain is submarine: It rises 19,680 feet from the sea floor before it even breaks the surface. At its apex it is 29,703 feet tall—675 feet taller than Mount Everest. To stand on the coast and look up at the enormity of Haleakalā—and to know that what you are seeing is just a fraction of the mountain—is to understand the size and strength of an anchor that is unseen but absolute. Maui rests on a truly extraordinary foundation. And the mountain is, of course, alive. It has been just a few centuries since Haleakalā last erupted—compare that to Mauna Kea, which last erupted five thousand years ago. The House of the Sun is still young—under a million years old—though it was born well before our species. At its summit it offers the feeling of another planet, or perhaps a distillation of the essence of this one: rock, sunlight, moonlight, stars, snatches of water, oxygen, life. In the valley at the very top of Haleakalā is a spot that has been measured as the quietest place on the face of the earth. Here, in a colossal amphitheater crowded with cinder cones, is a stillness so deep it seems to change the nature of our own cells when we enter it. “He ali‘i ka ‘āina, he kauā ke kanaka,” is an ‘olelo noeau (proverb) that speaks to the relationship between land and humans: Land is the chief, man is the servant—a truth that at the summit of Haleakalā is immediate and undeniable. MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAY-JUN 2020

Much of what is found at the summit of Haleakalā has a quality of enchantment to it. The image on the opening page, for example: What appears to be another mountain in the distance is in fact Haleakalā’s own shadow on the horizon, cast by the sun dropping low in the sky. The upper reaches are home to remarkable ecosystems: alpine aeolian, where silverswords grow and blossom out of a barren moonscape, and subalpine shrublands, where nēnē geese forage among the ‘ōhelo, seeking berries. Lower down the mountain in the rainforest, honeycreepers feed on the blossoms of ‘ ōhi‘a lehua. In the image at left, green emerges in the distance as the trail heads north toward Palikū cabin and the rain shadow cast by the mighty peak of Hanakauhi. Palikū is one of three cabins built at the summit in 1937; in the image above, the trail approaches another of the cabins, Hōlua. MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAY-JUN 2020

On most mountains the thrill is largely in the ascent, scaling the sides to reach the top, and what typically awaits is a narrowed patch of land, an extraordinary view, and a trip back the way you came. On Haleakalā the journey to the top is just the beginning. Much of the magic of the summit is in the descent from the rim into the “crater,” which is actually not a crater at all but rather a vast eroded valley seven miles long and two and a half miles wide.

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The drop from the rim to the valley floor is three thousand feet into the heart of the mountain, walking down Keonehe‘ehe‘e (Sliding Sands) trail through a parched terrain of pu‘u (cinder cones), all of which remind one that Haleakalā is merely dormant, not extinct. Here, a view of Ka Lu‘u o ka Ō‘ō pu‘u, as seen from the Kalahaku Overlook; the name of the pu‘u comes from the sulfur that lends it a yellowish tinge, reminiscent of the feathers of the ō‘ō bird.

In the human story of Haleakalā, the sun is everywhere. It’s in the mountain’s name: Hale-a-ka-lā, the House of the Sun. It’s in the mountain’s most famous legend: It was here that the demigod Māui used his net of ‘ie‘ie and olonā to snare the sun, forcing it to agree that for six months every year it would slow down in its path across the sky. In modern times, an early morning journey up the mountain to watch the sun’s light spill over the lip of the summit has become a ritual of renewal. At left, the sun shines high over Haleakalā on its daily journey westward to other lands. Once it has departed, Haleakalā turns into the realm of the other stars. On this page, the Milky Way shimmers above Hōlua cabin.

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“Pōhaku [stone] finds out how disciplined you are,” says Hoaka. "It will find out how strong you are, no matter how small or how large. Patience, foresight, that’s the awakening, the resonance of the voice that’s heard within.”

CARVED in STONE THE LIFE of KĀLAI PŌHAKU HOAKA DELOS REYES HAS BEEN SHAPED by THE MEDIUM he SHAPES STORY by SHANNON WIANECKI PHOTOGRAPHY by BAILEY ROBERTS

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAY-JUN 2020

“I had to learn what time of day to chip, what kind of sunlight,” says Hoaka. “The morning is the nicest sun, it shows all the clarity. Midday comes, it has shadows. When afternoon comes, it changes again. These are all the hidden things!”

[underground oven], building shelters, making medicines oaka Delos Reyes shows off a polished red with mortar and pestle, and carving canoes. Stone takes life in stone with a knife-like edge. It’s an adze, or warfare, whether with a sling stone, stone club, or spear.” ko‘i—the tool Hawaiians relied on for cutting Hoaka consulted old texts and extended his search to other and carving before Western ships brought islands. Finally a neighbor called with a lead: a Japanesemetal to the Islands in the late 1700s. “You Hawaiian carpenter on O‘ahu knew how to carve the old way. see how well made? Feel that edge. Precious,” Hoaka sent a friend to the man’s house to ask if he would he says. “The ko‘i is the physical manifestaaccept Hoaka as a student. The man said no. Hoaka sent his tion of our ancient ancestors.” friend to ask again. The old man scowled and said, “What Hoaka has dozens of ko‘i, ranging in color and size from don’t you understand? No is no.” Hoaka let it rest. But after hefty axe blades to slight tools for deft work. Some of these, months of failing to find anyone else, he implored his friend like the one made with polished red stone, are artifacts he to try a third time. Reluctantly, the friend went. The old man has collected over years, but many are his own creations—the spied him in the driveway. “You again? You must really love tools of his trade. Hoaka is a kālai pōhaku (stone carver), one your friend. Okay. Give him my number.” of the only surviving masters of this traditional Hawaiian art. Thus began Hoaka’s fifteen-year mentorship with George The artist’s humble home in Ha‘ikū could double as a Fujinaga. In 1989 Hoaka spent a week with George learning museum; beautifully carved oil lamps, salt bowls, sling stones, the basics. “I had to go out and look for stones and research and octopus lures beckon from tidy shelves. In the backyard, what kind of tools were made,” says Hoaka. Hawai‘i’s young a statuary of Hawaiian gods and goddesses testifies to his skill. volcanic landscape is composed A deep, majestic bowl of water almost entirely of basalt, which glitters beneath a breadfruit tree; ranges from light and porous to Hoaka spent three years transdo dense and fine-grained. Hoaka forming a three-ton boulder into learned to use the harder rock this sorcerer’s pool, which is for tools—adzes, chisels, and guarded by sleek stone lizard with anvils. From softer rock he black eyes. Nearby sits the godfashioned other objects—the dess Hi‘iaka, with waves of hair keeps poi pounder for his son, game etched in gray. Two lithe lizards boards, and sacred statues. perch on either side of her, one of Stonework requires strength with ivory shark’s teeth in its fearand humility in equal measure. some mouth. “When you are hard,” says Hoaka’s stone-carving odyssey Hoaka, “the stone will make you began three decades ago when his soft. It will resist and humble son came home from Waihe‘e Eland you. When you are soft, it will ementary with a seemingly simple shape and mold you.” Hoaka request. The fourth-grader had learned to observe the grain and color of each pōhaku, and been learning to pound poi and he asked his father to make the sound it made as he chipped away. “The stone started to him a stone pounder. No problem, dad said. After all, Hoaka had worked with rock most of his life, having built houses and shape me, not the other way around.” What began to emerge was a gifted artist, someone capable of telling stories in stone. hotels from the concrete slab up. But the boy’s request came Hoaka kept challenging himself with increasingly larger piecwith a challenge: He wanted a pounder made the traditional es, graduating from three-pound stones to thirty-pounders, way, without modern tools. three hundred-pounders, and even three thousand-pounders. Hoaka was stumped. His Native Hawaiian mother had taught him how to weave and fish, but not to carve. Once fundamental to daily life in Hawai‘i, the practice of carving eorge often talked about a particular type stones, or pōhaku, had all but vanished. Hoaka asked local of stone that he had never been able to kūpuna (elders) if they remembered how Hawaiians shaped find: extremely dense, hard, and shiny. stone in days past. “None of the kūpuna, not even in Ke‘anae, “For months and months I go looking,” knew,” he recalls. “No one did.” With each dead end, Hoaka’s says Hoaka, “on the coastline, in streams— curiosity deepened. and one day I found it. It was a blessing.” “The more I thought about it,” he says, “the more I wanted Eager to share his discovery, he flew to to know.” He recognized that his ancestors’ reliance on stones O‘ahu, drove to his teacher’s house and pulled the dark stone was fundamental. “We have a saying in Hawaiian: He ola out of a bag. “He looks at it and starts crying,” says Hoaka. “He pōhaku, he make pōhaku. Stone gives life, stone takes life.” calls his wife and says, ‘Look, look! He found the stone. The Hoaka explains: “Stone gives life by cooking food in the imu

“HOW STONES EVOLVE?” ASKS HOAKA. “KĪLAUEA KEEPS ERUPTING, MAKING MORE STONES. OUT DARKNESS, INTO LIGHT. IT BURSTS FORTH CREATES LAND.”

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAY-JUN 2020

WHERE TO SEE HOAKA'S WORK ON MAUI: The Honokahua burial site at the Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua; the lobby of the Westin Nanea Ocean Villas in Kā‘anapali; and Sabado Studios in the Wailea Village Center, where Hoaka has several pieces for sale.

the world. It spreads across seven miles just below the 13,800-foot summit of Mauna Kea. For centuries, Hawaiians traveled up the wind-bitten mountain, carrying food and water to sustain themselves while they turned raw rock into tools. The remains of workshops where kālai pōhaku labored, accumulating tons of flake at their feet, are scattered across the landscape. Hoaka visited Keanakāko‘i once. At first, security guards at the summit told him he couldn’t go to the quarry. “But there was a Hawaiian man there, an old, old man. He looked at me and said, ‘What you goin’ to do?’ I said, ‘Make my prayers for my family. I need to go there to honor them.’ After Hoaka revealed his family name, the man volunteered to personally escort him.

"STONE is ALIVE FOR ME,” SAYS HOAKA. “IT HAS AN ENERGY. STONE IMPORTANT: WHAT KIND of STONE, HOW YOU USE IT, WHAT YOU MAKE WITH IT. By DOING THE WORK, ONE LEARNS.”

stone has revealed itself to him.’ And he says to me, ‘From this day forward I no longer can teach you.’” Hoaka told his teacher not to say such things and promised to come and chip stones outside of his house. Not long after, Hoaka received a two a.m. phone call from George’s wife. Her husband was gone. “Before he passed,” she said, “he told me to tell you that he had been waiting for you all his life.” During his apprenticeship with George, Hoaka learned something about his own genealogy. “Finally someone is assuming the kuleana [responsibility],” his aunties said during a family dinner. “What kuleana?” Hoaka asked. They reminded him that his great-great-grandmother’s name was Mauna Kea: “It’s that holy mountain that the stones come from. There’s an adze quarry there called Keanakāko‘i. Those are our ancestral lands.” Keanakāko‘i is one of the largest, highest adze quarries in 48

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t 72, Hoaka still hefts hundredpound rocks into his house and spends hours hammeris ing away at the sheer slabs. He teaches carving workshops and contributes sculpture to fine art collections around the world. He hopes to one day create ko‘i from each of the main Hawaiian Islands. The project would require access to historic quarries—not easy to get. Government agencies regard quarries as archaeological sites rather than living cultural resources. Hoaka wants to see that shift. Hula practitioners, canoe carvers, and fishermen all have legal access to the materials they need for their traditions; he seeks the same for stone carvers. Plus, he feels a filial responsibility for Mauna Kea and the other quarry sites. “I am connected to all of the quarries and all of the mountains of stone,” he says. “I am the navigator of stones, the priest of many places from heiau [temples] to fishponds, from taro patches to the king’s trails, the pathways with the white stones placed so you can see your way at night.”

Hoaka’s uhi maka, or face tattoo, took much time and prayer before it was decided upon. “The design that you see,” he says, “the spaces in between, these are like the stones in the heiau [temple] or fishponds and in between are the pathways. I walk in the footsteps of my ancestors.”

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAY-JUN 2020

Story by SARAH RUPPENTHAL Photography by RYAN SIPHERS

A RECIPE FOR SUCCESS

The Maui Food Innovation Center gives homegrown entrepreneurs the ingredients they need to build their businesses

Graduates from the Maui Food Innovation Center include (clockwise from top left) Monica Bogar of Napili FLO Farm, Tina Keko‘olani of Haleakala Supah Shots, Dawn Anderson of OHi Superfood Bars, and Justin and Katie Orr of HI Spice.

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hen Monica Bogar was a little girl, she’d sit cross-legged on the kitchen floor, her tiny chin resting in the palm of her hand, and watch her mother and aunt make traditional Korean kimchi. As the two women quartered the cabbage, Monica would wait patiently for her cue. At last, her mother would nod, and she’d hop up from her spot on the floor, grab a bowl of Hawaiian sea salt, and carefully sprinkle it in between the layers of leaves. Nine years ago, Monica started making her own naturally fermented kimchi. Hers was a blend of her mother’s and aunt’s recipes with a few adjustments: She left out the MSG and swapped out fish sauce and fermented fish paste to make it vegan. The kimchi was a hit at Maui farmers’ markets, and Monica wanted to develop her fledgling business further. Who, she wondered, was out there to help her with that? Elsewhere on Maui, Tina Keko‘olani was also crafting a product shaped by her upbringing. While still a teenager, she’d discovered a passion for food and nutrition when she’d nudged her family’s diet—which had consisted mostly of white bread, rice, and soda—in the direction of better nourishment. When she was older, Tina started making healthy hot sauces for her parents with two of their favorite ingredients: Hawaiian chili peppers and liliko‘i. In 2015, she concocted an immuneboosting elixir made with Hawaiian chili pepper water and fruit juice. To tone down the spiciness, she added vinegar, organic agave, and hand-harvested Hawaiian sea salt. She set up a booth at a community event near her home in Kula, and within a few hours, every bottle was gone. Word soon began to spread about Tina’s newly named Haleakala Supah Shots, and it wasn’t long before demand began to outpace supply. She’d come up with a proven winner, but how was she going to develop a professional network to grow the business? Seven years ago, Justin Orr also started experimenting with chili peppers. He was waiting tables at a restaurant in Kīhei when he noticed that a lot of his customers really liked hot sauce. There were chili peppers growing in his home garden—some sweet, others palate-scorching hot—so he decided to try his hand at making his own. After a bit of

All four of the entrepreneurs who brought the products pictured here to market commend the Innovation Center for providing a vital helping hand. Today their creations can be found across Maui (clockwise from top left): Bogar’s kimchi, Keko‘olani’s Supah Shots, Anderson’s OHi bars, and the Orrs’ hot sauce.

trial and error, he took a bottle for his coworkers and the restaurant’s patrons to sample. It was an instant hit. By 2016, Justin’s backyard was full of chili pepper plants, and he and his wife Katie were selling their spicy concoctions at farmers’ markets and the Made in Maui County Festival. That’s when they decided to turn their side hustle into a full-fledged business. But like Tina, they wondered just how to go about cultivating a professional network to expand the business. And then there was Dawn Anderson. Eight years ago as she sat in an airport waiting to board a flight to Maui, Dawn unwrapped a sugar-laden energy bar for the last time. When she bit into it, she thought: “I can’t keep eating like this.” Well aware that her on-the-go life as a corporate travel consultant was taking a toll on her health, she started to stockpile whole foods—items like organic spirulina, cacao butter, and pumpkin and chia seeds—to make pre-flight smoothies. One day as she stood in her kitchen listening to the whirr of her blender, she thought: Why not pack the same ingredients into a ready-to-eat bar? After months of experimentation, Dawn created a refrigerated superfood bar. In 2014, at the urging of friends and family, she began selling the then-named bRAW bars at local farmers’ markets. The following year, she started selling them at Maui’s Whole Foods Market. But as the popularity of the bars grew, she found herself in need of someone to help her develop the business even further.

our creative Maui residents, four unique food products, four sets of challenges—and the one thing that unites them all is the Maui Food Innovation Center, an incubator and accelerator that was launched four years ago at the University of Hawai‘i Maui College to help entrepreneurs jumpstart their businesses—and to help reduce Hawai‘i’s reliance on imported food. The first of its kind in the Islands, the Center is one of several universitybased food entrepreneurship programs nationwide; it is funded by private donors and county, state, and federal agencies. To date, 111 students have graduated from the Center. Eighty-eight of them—including Monica, Tina, Justin, and Dawn—are graduates of the Center’s flagship program, the eight-week-long Maui Food Industry X-celerator (MFIX) training program, which is designed for students who are ready to develop and grow a business. Every spring and fall, MFIX accepts twelve students who go on to learn the nuts and bolts of starting and running a food business—everything from securing financing to crafting a marketing plan to

calculating packaging and shipping costs—along with food production, safety regulations, sourcing supplies, and other food business-related topics. The weekly classes are led by the Center’s site coordinator and food specialist Chris Speere and by Greg Cabanting, a food marketing and distribution expert. There are also presentations from industry experts, including attorneys, investors, food scientists, and fellow entrepreneurs. At the eight-week mark, students pitch their products to a panel of judges, which awards three of them a cash prize; over the years, more than $100,000 has been awarded to MFIX students. Dawn and Monica completed the program in 2016, Justin in 2017, and Tina in 2018. Each says the program filled in crucial blanks. Not only that: All four walked away with a cash prize. Today, they are thriving. Monica is a full-time organic farmer and the owner of Napili FLO Farm, which sells her kimchi to several Maui grocers and restaurants. Tina’s glassbottled raw vegan elixirs now come in three flavors—Kula strawberry, liliko‘i, and pineapple with Thai basil—and are sold in a number of stores and at community events. Justin’s company, HI Spice, sells its sauces—with flavors like jalapeño lime, turmeric ginger, and pineapple Habanero—to a growing roster of retail stores, restaurants, and resorts on Maui and to stores on Kaua‘i and O‘ahu and online. And then there’s Dawn. In 2018, she rebranded her bars—they became OHi Superfood Bars—and moved her company, OHi Food Co., to Torrance, California. She is now selling her superfood bars not only in Hawai‘i but on the West Coast and online. “Any successful business would be lying if they said they did it alone,” Justin says. He, like Monica, Tina, and Dawn, attributes much of his success to the Maui Food Innovation Center. Dawn in particular says her expansion to the West Coast would likely not have happened if not for the program. “I honestly don’t know,” she says, “if I’d be where I am today without it.” For more information about the Center and for program dates and fees, visit Maui.Hawaii.edu/FoodInnovation. In addition to MFIX, the Center offers free Food Akamai workshops for those who are thinking of starting a business; and the Concept to Consumer Incubator Program, which helps students turn a recipe idea into a viable food product. A fully equipped food manufacturing and packaging facility for all Center graduates is on track to open its doors on the Maui campus in 2021.

Product Information HI Spice 808-205-7375 Info@HISpice.com, HISpice.com

Haleakala Supah Shots 808-357-1927 HaleakalaSupahShots@gmail.com

OHi Superfood Bars Aloha@OHiFoodCo.com, OHiFoodCo.com

Napili FLO Farm 808-357-0648 NapiliFLOFarm@icloud.com, NapiliFLOFarm.com

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAY-JUN 2020

The Great

Outdoors Three open-air kitchens bring the inside out

STORY BY S A R A H R U P P E N T H A L

PHOTOGRAPHY BY R Y A N S I P H E R S

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAY-JUN 2020

housands of years ago humans huddled around fire pits and cooked meals over the dancing flames. By the Middle Ages cooking had largely moved indoors, with many medieval meals prepared in cauldrons hanging over an open hearth. In 1735 architect Francois Cuvilliés introduced the wood-burning Castrol stove to French houses and less than a decade later Benjamin Franklin debuted the eponymous metal-lined Franklin stove in American homes. The gas stove came along in 1826, followed by the electric stove in 1912. Then in 1952 a Chicago welder named George Stephen started to move things back in the other direction when he sliced a buoy made out of sheet metal into two halfspheres and invented the dome-shaped Weber kettle grill, inaugurating the era of backyard barbecuing. The evolutionary (re)cycle hasn’t ended. Many of today’s outdoor cooking spaces now rival their indoor counterparts, providing an elegant and engaging place to prepare meals, entertain, and relax and unwind. Here, three Maui couples share how they cooked up the al fresco kitchens of their dreams—and why nothing beats dining out in their own backyards. 56

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“….like a big pizza pie, that’s amore”: Jeff and Kaili Scheer had a pizza oven at their wedding and it was such a hit with their guests that they decided they needed one in their daily lives. Now pizza parties are a constant. Jeff (seen here in the kitchen) is a former MNKO Chef of the Year; he makes the sourdough crust from scratch using extra-fine 00 flour. Before it goes in the oven, it may be topped with squash blossoms and herbs from the couple’s garden, mozzarella and pecorino, prosciutto and sausage. Once it’s out of the oven, it’s finished with chilies and a drizzle of olive oil. Occasionally, fresh greens from the garden are added to make what Kaili calls “a salad pizza.”

A Chef’s Kitchen, Made from Scratch: Kaili and Jeff Scheer, Kula

n a cool and breezy summer night, Jeff and Kaili Scheer are hosting a dinner party for twenty on their back deck. Amid the buzz of conversation, Jeff sprinkles fresh herbs on a homemade pizza before sliding it into the wood-fired oven nearby. Someone taps him on the shoulder: It’s his turn. He picks up a pingpong paddle and rejoins the party. When Jeff, MNKO’s 2015 ‘Aipono Chef of the Year, and Kaili, founder of Olympia Activewear, bought their Kula home in 2017, one of the first items on their to-do

list was to build an outdoor kitchen. With some help from Jeff’s mom, who is a retired carpenter, and a few of their construction-savvy friends, the Scheers expanded the once-diminutive wood deck and built a kitchen along its north-facing side. Today, it has a pizza oven and a ceramic charcoal grill-smoker known as a Big Green Egg, along with a stainless steel sink, ample storage, and a slatted pergola to provide shade. To complement the rustic look and for durability, the couple opted for concrete countertops. Last year,

Jeff decided he wanted a ping-pong table too. Since the outdoor kitchen still lacked a dining table, Kaili proposed an idea: Why not pour a large slab of concrete that could be used for meals and ping-pong? The Scheers say the kitchen is still a work in progress. They plan to add, among other things, a drawer refrigerator and gas fire pit to warm up the chilly Kula nights. They still enjoy cooking inside, but say the outdoor space offers so much more: fresh air, sunsets, and most importantly, quality time outside together.

“We’re outdoors people,” says Lee Gardner, “and we prefer to cook and eat in the fresh air. For me, there’s nothing better than hearing the laughter of friends and clinking glasses behind me when I’m standing at the stove, cooking.” The Gardners regularly grill burgers on the barbecue and prepare fish and turkey in the smoker but it’s the pizza oven that gets fired up the most. The dough—“we cheat,” laughs Lee—comes from Whole Foods; many of the toppings are grown on the Gardners’ property: basil, chives, fennel, rosemary, and figs from their trees. Patti concocts pizza recipes for visitors to try; these include a “dessert pizza” that Lee terms delicious, made with cream cheese, chocolate chips, strawberries and blueberries.

A DIY Kitchen, From a Homemade Recipe: Patti and Lee Gardner, Kula

hen Patti Gardner took a trip to Arizona two years ago, she found a pair of surprises waiting for her when she came home to Maui: a brand-new puppy and an outdoor kitchen. Her husband Lee was the mastermind behind both. Bella the puppy, Lee says, was a somewhat spurof-the-moment decision but the kitchen took some planning—even if the perfect location was evident from the start. At the rear of the Gardners’ hillside Kula home, there was a sloping section of lawn the couple had deemed wasted space. Lee took some measurements, sketched a design, and made a list of materials. Not surprisingly, stone was at the top of the list: He and Patti own Maui Marble & Granite in Wailuku. He loaded up on building supplies and purchased a gas grill, a ceramic

charcoal grill, and an Italian-made wood-fired pizza oven. Then he rolled up his sleeves and got to work. After leveling the site with concrete, he laid a marble patio and built foundations for the pizza oven and ceramic grill, which are finished with a stone veneer and topped with quartzite counters. Finishing touches included a round marbletop table that seats six. The night she returned home, Patti rounded up ingredients to make pizza, and though the first pie emerged from the oven charred, she quickly mastered the art. Now on any given day, the oven is in use; once lit, it can take up to three hours to reach the right temperature. But when you see Patti and Lee relaxing outside, a glass of wine in hand and the scent of kiawe smoke filling the air, it’s clear they don’t mind the wait. MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAY-JUN 2020

A Dream Kitchen with All the Right Ingredients: Jill and Doug Schatz, Mākena

ill and Doug Schatz didn’t plan to have an outdoor kitchen when they built their oceanfront Mākena home in 2004. In fact, had it not been for a faulty barbecue grill, an outdoor kitchen might never have happened. But not long after the house was completed, Doug bought a standard grill for the rear lānai and quickly realized he had a lemon on his hands. As the Schatzes hunted for a replacement, James Donald, who’d overseen the construction of the couple’s home, suggested an outdoor kitchen instead. The Schatzes love to

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cook and entertain so they were sold on the idea, and the results, they say, exceeded their expectations. The kitchen now occupies roughly five hundred square feet just a short distance from the lānai. To harmonize the new space with the house and its surroundings, James used natural materials like teak and lava rock, and he strategically positioned the kitchen’s working parts so they wouldn’t obstruct the ocean views. The outdoor kitchen has nearly all of the features of an interior kitchen, including a refrigerator, icemaker, sink, wok cooker, and a hulking grill-smokeroven that Jill and Doug affectionately refer to as Bubba. There’s also plenty of prep and storage space, a gas fire pit, a teak deck, a waterfall feature, and a pond. The couple routinely hosts outdoor dinner parties and no one gets stuck inside cooking or has to traipse

back and forth between the house and the grill with armfuls of ingredients. But the Schatzes use the space even if there’s no guest list or planned menu. On cool evenings after the sun drops below the horizon, they light the fire pit, settle into their chairs, and soak up the warmth of the flickering flames. The Schatzes own hundreds of cookbooks and experiment with new recipes all the time. But there is one dish they return to again and again in their outdoor kitchen, a paella they like to call epic. They found the recipe in a cookbook, of course, one written by John Gorham of Spanish restaurant Toro Bravo in Portland, and it has now become Doug’s signature dish. Creating it can take two days: the first (indoors) for all of the prepping, the second in the kitchen by the sea, crafting (on Bubba) an opus that includes shrimp, rice, chorizo, tomato, and saffron, in a huge pan that makes enough to serve twenty. “The paella is an outdoor meal,” says Doug. “Sometimes there’s a little left over but rarely.” Jill adds her own signature creation to the festivities: two types of sangria, one red and one white.

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DINING

The Good Stuff Thousands of Maui’s children are learning to make better food choices thanks to an innovative program on nutritional education S T O R Y B Y Becky Speere P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y Shanoaleigh Marson

s the students of Kanoe Delatori’s fifth-grade class file in to the cafeteria of Princess Nāhi‘ena‘ena Elementary School, excited chatter fills the air. One by one the twenty youngsters pass me—all with hands washed and ready for action—and when I ask them their favorite class, each responds with a huge smile and an exuberant exclamation: “This one!” The beloved class is aptly named: Kids Cook with Heart. Today one of the teachers is Betty McDonald, owner and chef of Maui’s B3, A Beach Bunny Bakery. All eyes are on her as she asks, “Are you ready to make a healthy snack?”

She picks up an apple and demonstrates how to cut it, then garnishes it with yogurt, dried fruits, and nuts. “Today you’ll be working with a flavored yogurt,” she tells the students, “but your parents can buy a plain yogurt. That’s a great way to cut your sugar intake.” As the students break out into groups of four to make their own copy of McDonald’s creation, the program director of Kids Cook With Heart Rob Mason bellows, “Remember your knife safety!” The Cook with Heart class meets four days over the span of a month and at the very beginning the students are taught knife safety skills. As Mason shared with me earlier, “At the start I ask the students whether they help their parents in the kitchen—more specifically, if they are allowed to use a knife—and they all answer, ‘No!’ The most important thing we teach is the proper and safe way to use a knife. If a student is going into the kitchen to cook, it is the most valuable skill.” I follow a group of girls to their workspace, where McDonald has placed cutting boards and paper plates. The girls unload a stash of raisins, cranberries, yogurt, sliced almonds, and whole apples. “I’ll go first!” states class president Gracie Dean as she wraps her tiny fingers around the knife. She steadies the apple against the cutting board and carefully slices a round disc from the crispy fruit. A silence falls amongst the foursome as she next concentrates on cutting the apple into delicate half-moon slices. When she completes her task and places the knife on the cutting board, she steps back confidently and says, “Who’s next?” Her classmate Tayana Faiva is standing before the words are out of Gracie’s mouth. Another group of students in the room is being quietly guided by Motley Adovas, who works as a sous chef at Fond Maui restaurant in Napili. A recent graduate of UH Maui’s culinary school, Adovas went to Lahainaluna for high school and it was there that he himself participated in the Kids Cook with Heart program. “I learned so much in the classes,” he recalls, “while broadening my knowledge about food and proper food safety. That knowledge has affected the way that I treat myself: Eating well is like getting dressed up for an occasion every day. So much of the food in the United States is processed, and so many choices come into play when people eat.” The primary goal of Kids Cook with Heart is to teach students what makes for healthy food and good nutrition— vital knowledge in a country that has seen soaring rates of obesity and diabetes. As Mason noted when we talked, all of the recipes included in the program are approved by the American Heart Association. “In another class, we’ll demonstrate how to make a turkey stir fry,” he’d said, “and then the students will prep the dish and cook it.” Kale smoothies are on the menu too. Kids Cook with Heart teaches students at three grade levels—fifth grade, eighth grade, and twelfth grade. By the time the high school seniors are involved, the cooking has become much more sophisticated: At that point, groups of four are given a basket of ingredients and tasked with creating a salad, an entrée, and a smoothie, all within one hour. Items in the basket typically include a protein and an assortment of produce (often including unusual items like jicama, trumpet mushrooms, or fennel).

A fifth-grader at Princess Nāhi‘ena‘ena Elementary School beams after polishing off a healthy snack of his own creation— through the Kids Cook With Heart program, island chefs are teaching Maui’s students the art of crafting dishes that are both nourishing and delicious.

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAY-JUN 2020

Chefs Rob Mason (above) and Betty McDonald (below) are among the many Maui chefs who have visited schools to teach students culinary skills, including the essential ability to work with a knife.

To date, some two thousand public school children have participated. The program was founded by Sharon and Joe Saunders of Kapalua, who partnered with the American Heart Association when they recognized the need for nutritional education on Maui—often an uphill battle when even school cafeterias continue to serve pepperoni pizza sticks and corndogs with curly fries. “We felt there was a healthy diet piece missing,” says Sharon. “A large number of calories the students were eating came from foods that were processed, fatty, and low in fiber. Mirroring other heart-healthy programs for children, we introduce them to alternative snacks: fresh fruits, vegetables, good fats such as avocado and coconut, or fat-free alternatives.” Happily, Sharon notes, the group I’m with today—the fifth graders—is getting the message. “What we’ve found over the past five years,” she tells me, “is that this age group, the nine- and ten-year-olds, is the most receptive and influenced.” What drew the Saunders to become advocates? Sharon notes that she and Joe have a passion for cooking and that her family ran a restaurant in Illinois from 1920 to 1998. They have also had a forty-year dedication to education and in the past partnered with Teach for America and Teach for All. Maui’s chefs are on board too. At least ten have volunteered their time to teach students healthy eating and culinary skills, including Kyle Kawakami, who was 2019’s ‘Aipono Chef of the Year, and Sheldon Simeon, who gained fame on Bravo’s Top Chef. Adovas is now in his second year of volunteering having taken over from his employer, Chef Jojo Vasquez, who volunteered for the program’s first three years. “It’s always an honor to be involved in the community,” says Motley, “affecting lives in a positive way.” The program has taught students at Princess Nāhi‘ena‘ena Elementary School, Kamehameha Elementary, Lahaina Intermediate, and Lahainaluna High School and recently added a fifth school, Pomaikai Elementary School. Mason notes that the long-term goal is to grow the program to cover the entire island but he says, “It takes a village. Funding is needed.” A crowd funding campaign is underway and a recent fundraiser highlighted yet another example of the program’s success: It was attended by Zain Zakata, a 22-yearold chef who recently moved from Maui to San Francisco to work at the Michelin-starred restaurant Gary Danko. Like Adovas, Zakata is a graduate of UH Maui’s culinary school; he received a full scholarship to the school from the Saunders after participating in the Cook With Heart program as a high school senior. After visiting the other students, I circle back to the table where Bella, Olivia, Tayana, and Gracie have completed their dish: an apple sunburst circling a scoop of yogurt with a sprinkling of dried fruits and almonds. Each grabs a slice of apple and digs in. With excitement in her voice, Gracie announces, “Next week is pancakes!” Says Delatori as I leave, “The students are already asking if we can continue cooking in the classroom after the program has ended. They suggested we could tie the recipes to our math lessons.” To learn more and to help fund Kids Cook with Heart, please visit https://app.mobilecause.com/vf/MAUIKIDS MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAY-JUN 2020

Dee-lish

Our food editor Becky Speere dishes on the Maui dishes she loves Photography by RYAN SIPHERS

What we each like to eat is such a unique part of who we are. What exactly is it that makes a dish linger in our memories, drawing us—sometimes driving us—to revisit its distinctive flavors and textures? Cultures, childhoods, families, defining moments all play in to what we love to see on our plates. And then there is food that is simply so delicious and well prepared that a consensus emerges around it: We love it! So here is a mix of both the individual and the collective: a few of my own personal favorite dishes at the restaurants that the readers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi have chosen as the island’s best.

Miso Phat Sushi Gold: ‘Aipono for Best Sushi

The fun is in the puns at Miso Phat. Names like TNT Roll (Miso the Bomb), Rainbow Roll (Miso Pretty), and 69 Roll (Miso Horny) offer a sense of the creativity at work here—and all laughter aside, this is one of Maui’s primo sushi experiences. My favorite thing at Miso Phat Sushi is the rice-to-fish ratio. The restaurant prides itself on serving big, mouth-filling pieces of umaminess, and there’s no playing hide-and-seek with the ‘ahi, salmon, otoro, or unagi. In fact, you might find yourself saying instead, “Where’s the rice?” But if you are feeling me-so-skinny and wanting rice to fill you out, you can order a terrific chirashi sushi bowl or local-style (only better) poke bowl. The sushi chefs here know the difference between good fish and great fish and on top of that, they know just how to handle great fish. And BTW, Miso Phat Sushi owns the boat they catch their fish on. Its name? Shiso Phat. Two locations: Azeka Center Mauka, 1279 South Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476 and 4310 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kahana, 669-9010.

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A chirashi sushi bowl glistens with an array of the freshest sashimi served atop steamed short-grain Japanese rice (left) while a plate of nigiri sushi beckons.

Drizzled with a piquant Maui onion demi-glace and accented with truffle oil, the foie gras-and‘ahi appetizer at Lahaina Grill is destined to become one of Maui's most unforgettable dishes.

Lahaina Grill Gold: ‘Aipono Award for Restaurant of the Year

“Really? Foie gras and ‘ahi together?” my husband asked skeptically. We were sitting together at the bar of the Lahaina Grill reading over the appetizer menu and—though I was tempted by fleeting thoughts of diver scallops with lobster beurre blanc— “Yes,” I said, “definitely. Foie gras and ‘ahi.” I’d been thinking about the dish ever since I’d first tasted it a few months ago: the seared foie gras and the fresh ‘ahi, nestled on a bed of sautéed spinach, pan juices mingled with a fig compote and Maui onion demi-glace. Slicing through the stack, my first bite of foie gras, caramelized and nearly blackened on one side, had a tender

crunch that was followed with a delicate morsel of ‘ahi. The sauces and goose liver fat, reduced in the pan with a touch of truffle oil, had offered a richness that even a properly cooked rib-eye steak couldn’t match. So we quickly placed our order and ten minutes later, I was once again relishing a meeting with this divine dish, sipping Château Suduiraut Sauternes as I did so. My husband and I slowly savored each bite, nibbling on the tiniest dried figs until the very end. And when I left, it was with the desire to return yet again—the hallmark sensation evoked by the greatest restaurants. 127 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117.

Sale Pepe Pizzeria e Cucina Gold: ‘Aipono for Best Italian

“You haven’t had Michele’s lasagna yet?!” Qiana Di Bari asks me. “We have had grown Italian men say it tastes exactly like their own mother’s!” Qiana—wife of Sale Pepe’s chef, Michele Di Bari—is the front-of-the-house diva at the couple’s celebrated Italian restaurant. I have to admit that even after countless dinners at the intimate little hideaway, I have not eaten it; I’ve been stuck in love with the house-made strozzapreti with Calabrian sausage. Minutes later, Michele himself is delivering me a plate of piping hot lasagna napped in long-simmered Bolognese sugo made with imported San Marzano tomatoes and locally sourced Maui Cattle Company grass-fed beef. “You know we make fresh mozzarella daily for our pizza, pastas, and lasagna, right?” he queries. “Really?” I respond in disbelief, thinking of the labor-intensive prep. Then I turn my attention to the luscious dish before me and my senses awaken as a delicate drift of nutmeg rises from the creamy béchamel. Sale Pepe is finalmente forte nel nostro cuore (strongly committed in their heart) to serving the best Italian dishes. Mangiare insieme! 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667.

Sale Pepe's lasagne (seen at right), made with housemade pasta baked with layers of sugo meat sauce and Michele's mozzarella, gets a final dusting of Parmigiano Reggiano at the table.

Kō Restaurant at the Fairmont Kea Lani never disappoints. Filipino-style chicken lumpia with vinegar-spiked green papaya salad (seen at top left) and fresh catch of the day topped with a crunchy macadamia-nut crust (seen at bottom left) are two great choices for lunch.

Kō Restaurant Silver: ‘Aipono for Best Hawai‘i Regional

When it comes to food I normally have great self-control but every so often I get a craving. And recently that craving took me across Maui to one of my favorite haunts, Kō Restaurant, in search of crispy lumpia (Filipino egg rolls) for lunch. I was near fainting from hunger when I arrived, and the bowl of lumpia— filled with ground chicken and mushrooms and served with a side of achara (lightly pickled shredded green papaya)—was so ‘ono (delicious) that I couldn’t stop eating. The fresh fish of the day next sated my desires: tender monchong in a golden macadamia-nut crust, sautéed and served atop a slathering of tomato-ginger sauce. Emerald-green pak choi and a doubly oversized serving of coconut-infused mashed purple sweet potato made me say, ‘WOW!’ Calamansi lemonade was the perfect drink to go with. 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-4100. MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAY-JUN 2020

Aloha Mixed Plate uses ingredients from its own farm in WaikapĹŤ to create healthy local-style dishes; it also makes its own fresh delicious noodles.

Aloha Mixed Plate Gold: ‘Aipono for Best Plate Lunch

Takeaway is a major part of the business at Aloha Mixed Plate but on the day a friend and I visited, we decided to enjoy sous chef Kaluna Kaauwai’s creations in situ so we took a seat. Contrary to the classic Hawai‘i mixed plate for which the restaurant is named—a culinary phenomenon that conjures visions of sugary teriyaki meat, fried chicken, Spam, two scoops of white rice, and one scoop of macaroni salad—the plate lunches at Aloha Mixed Plate are among the healthiest to be found in the Islands. When I took my first bite of Japanesestyle miso eggplant, I flashed back to my aunt’s version. Did they steal her recipe? The dish, not overly salty-sweet, had a hint of the ocean to it; it was served alongside a crispy green bean salad with cherry tomatoes napped in rice vinegar dressing. The chow fun, cooked hot wok style, had a gentle smokiness to it. My plate lunch was rounded out by a side of kimchi, plus a beet salad with baby mixed greens, cucumbers, carrots, and almonds. My friend’s order of grilled fish with shiitake rice came topped with fresh pineapple salsa; his plate also included chunky fork-tender teriyaki beef that had been cooked in an imu. It was served with a side of miso-charred brussels sprouts sprinkled with bubu arare—a dish we both agreed could easily be a stand-alone winner. 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322. MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAY-JUN 2020

RUMMED UP

Getting into the spirit of the mai tai at the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua’s Alaloa Lounge STORY BY BECKY SPEERE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIEKO HORIKOSHI

aryl Smith has been the mixologist at the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua for over two decades, which means he’s made more than a few (thousand) mai tais over the years. “Beaches, palm trees, and sunshine come to mind when people think of mai tais,” he says as a broad smile lights his face, “but what many don’t know is the long history of the liquor that goes into the iconic cocktail.” I’m about to get a lesson in that liquor. My husband Chris and I are sitting at the bar in the resort’s Alaloa Lounge. We’ve come for one of its cocktail classes, which are offered for island guests and residents. Today’s focus is rum. Before each of us are four glasses, placed there by Daryl. Three of the glasses are filled—one with simple syrup, one with fresh lime juice, one with rum. Daryl makes us feel like we’re back in chemistry class as he tells us to mix a little of each into the fourth glass, the empty one. We pour a dash of syrup, of lime, and of rum, swirl the mixture, and then sip it. “I made mine too sweet,” my husband announces. “Mine is juuust right,” I say, savoring the flavor. “What you’ve made is a Ti Punch,” says Daryl. He reminds us that before refrigeration made ice widely available, beverages were served at room temperature. “In the 1800s, deckhands on ships to the Caribbean were given eight ounces of rum each day,” he says. My eyes widen as I imagine myself consuming a cup of the distillate every twenty-four hours. Daryl adds that lime juice was also portioned out to prevent scurvy. Distillates are typically made from 82

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a core crop, which is how a particular liquor may become associated with a certain part of the world. For vodka, that crop is potatoes or grain, grown in Russian soil. For tequila, it’s agave grown under the Mexican sun. And for rum, it’s sugarcane grown near the equator in island nations like Cuba, Jamaica, and Hawai‘i. As cocktail culture took off in the twentieth century, bars like Trader Vic’s and Don the Beachcomber made rum drinks famous, and the mai tai became the most famous of them all. But people on Maui want to see Maui reflected in their cocktails, says Daryl. “Bar managers are curating a cocktail menu that reflects the island. Liliko‘i and macadamia nut orgeat are a couple of ingredients that for many are magical.” We sample three of Daryl’s different takes on the mai tai, each of which he created with a Maui focus. There’s the Olu Mai Tai, which includes macadamia nut syrup and pineapple-orange jam; the B.T. Signature Mai Tai, which features the macadamia nut orgeat as well as a twenty-three-year-old Roz Zacapa rum; and the Ali‘i Mai Tai, for which Daryl gives us the recipe. “The more I learn about sugarcane, the more I realize a rum’s flavor can be influenced by many factors," says Daryl, "like the variety of sugarcane it’s made from, the amount of sunlight, wind, and rain the cane gets, and the type of soil it’s grown in. Another influencer is caskaging.” He holds up a bottle of Special Reserve El Dorado rum, aged for fifteen years in oak cask barrels, and announces, “You’ll find green, grassy notes with

Ali‘i Mai Tai

Daryl Smith’s top-shelf mai tai is made with a rum trifecta: a Hawai‘i Island agricole rum, a Martinique fifteen-yearold cask-aged rum, and a Jamaican pineapple rum. The trio is married with almond orgeat syrup, fresh local limes and a splash of Cynar. “The goal,” says Smith, “is big aromatics, fresh flavors, and a long complex finish. The Ali‘i is our crossover interpretation, taking elements from the classic original mai tai recipe while also using more current techniques. A dash of Cynar gives us a unique, very refreshing, and above all delicious tiki cocktail.” Yield: one cocktail ¾ oz. Plantation Stiggins' Fancy Pineapple Rum ¾ oz. Bacardi Reserva Ocho Rum ¾ oz. Kuleana Huihui Rum ½ oz. Pierre Ferrand Dry Curacao ½ oz. almond orgeat syrup ¾ oz. lime juice ½ oz. Cynar Method: Combine all ingredients. Shake.

Strain. Serve over crushed ice with a festive garnish: trimmed pineapple leaves, a dehydrated pineapple slice or two, and/or a torched cube of fresh pineapple. vanilla and coconut.” Tasting complete, the resort’s executive chef Kenny Sniffen and executive sous chef Meredith Manee pop into the lounge and suggest we sample Alaloa’s new menu. As our time with Daryl winds down, he shares that classes aren’t only for mai tai lovers. “If guests prefer a scotch or gin tasting,” he says, “we are happy to accommodate.” Soon Chris and I are feasting on hulihuli chicken, avocado and edamame hummus, cheesy pizza, and chunky quesadillas topped with avocado. We sample a maki roll with asparagus, cucumber, and salmon as well as a vegan offering with pickled red onion and pineapple sauerkraut. The final dish of grilled steak is served with the best beer-battered onion rings I’ve tasted. When Chef Meredith returns and sees our happy looks, she smiles, knowing we’ll be back. Maybe next time we’ll taste scotch. It would go well with those onion rings.

Long-time mixologist Daryl Smith is crafting mai tais with identities unique to Maui, using island ingredients like lilikoâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;i,macadamia nut, lime and pineapple.

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The Hideaway at Kapalua Bay 1.5 oz Joven Mezcal | 1 oz Chareau Aloe Vera liqueur 1 oz fresh lime juice | 1 oz butterfly pea flower tea* Recipe: Prepare a cocktail glass with a half-rim of salt, then pour butterfly pea flower tea and fill cocktail glass with ice. In a shaker with ice, combine spirits and lime juice. Shake well to chill, then strain into prepared cocktail glass. This is a great at-home science experiment. The blue tea and pale green margarita turn a fluorescent purple when combined. 1 Bay Dr, Lahaina, HI 96761 662-6690

Lavender Simple Syrup: 3 tablespoons Aliì Kula Lavender Culinary Lavender | 1 cup Water | 1 1/4 cups Sugar Lemonade: 8 Lemons | 4 cups Water 5 – 6 oz Vodka | 2 tsp Aliì Kula Lavender honey For the Lavender Simple Syrup: Bring the sugar and water to a boil, take off of the heat, and add the culinary lavender. Let it sit for 15-20 minutes, strain into a serving pitcher and discard the lavender flowers. For the lemonade: Peel 2 lemons, then juice all 8. Add the lemon peels, lemon juice, and water to a blender and blend. Strain into the serving pitcher and discard the strained lemon peel. For the Cocktail Add the Aliì Kula Lavender Sugar to the rim of your glass. In the serving pitcher, mix the lemonade and lavender simple syrup well and let chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. Pour into each glass and top off each drink with 0.5 – 1 oz of vodka, ice, and garnish with a lemon slice. 1100 Waipoli Rd. Kula, HI 96790 open daily, 9am-4pm aklmaui.com

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Lahaina Grill Smoking Gun 2 oz bulleit bourbon | 1/2 oz glenfiddich scotch 1/2 oz garam masala spiced apple syrup** Method: build in a rocks filled bucket, garnish with dehydrated apple slice. **Garam Masala spiced apple syrup 2 Tbsp coriander seeds | 1 Tbsp cumin seeds 2 cardamom pods | 2 tsp mustard seeds 2 tsp black peppercorns | 1 tsp whole cloves 2 cinnamon sticks | 1 red chili or 1 tsp red chili flakes 2 bay leaves | 1 Tbsp whole allspice berries 3 cups apple juice or apple cider | 1 1/2 cups raw sugar Method: toast all spices over low heat until fragrant. Add 3cups apple juice and bring to boil. Add sugar and simmer for 30 mins. Allow to cool and strain into a jar and refrigerate. 127 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, HI 96761 | 667-5117

Japengo At Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa Abunai Rita Watch the sunset from the patio and listen to live music as you sip Japengo’s signature cocktail with a kick, the Abunai Rita. To recreate this beautiful and unique drink at home, combine the following in your favorite glass: Sauza Hornitos Plata tequila | Cointreau Wasabi | Lime juice Complete it with a shichimi rim, garnish with a lime and enjoy! Located along the Ka'anapali beachfront with views of the Pacific, Japengo, voted Best Restaurant on Maui (2019) and Best Sushi (2019) by Maui No Ka ’Oi readers, offers an outdoor patio and menu of steaks and seafood sourced locally. Order hand-rolled selections from the Sushi Lounge and enjoy a variety of hot entrees. 200 Nohea Kai Drive, Lahaina, HI 808.667.4727 | hyattregencymaui.com Open daily – Dining Room and Sushi Bar: 5:30–9:30 p.m., Lounge: 5:00–10:00 p.m., Happy Hour: 5:00–6:00 p.m.

Seahouse Restaurant We are showcasing all of maui's favorite flavors by giving them the Sea House touch. Mint, pineapple, coconut and rum are paired with black sea salt to create a perfect hand crafted cocktail. Join us at Sea House oceanfront patio, dining room or at our iconic bar overlooking the pristine Napili Bay. Recipe: 2 oz. Rum Haven Coconut Rum | 2 oz. Crème de Coconut 1 oz. Lime Sour | 4 Pineapple Chunks | 5 Mint Leaves Blend until smooth and garnish with 3 pineapple chunks dipped in black sea salt with a mint leaf on top. Napili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapiilani, 808.669.1500 Open Daily: 7am to 10pm | Breakfast: 7am – 11am Lunch: 11am – 2pm | Happy Hour: 2p – 4:30pm Dinner: 5:30pm – 9:00pm | Cocktails: 7am – 10pm Hawaiian Music: 6:30pm – 8:30pm

2020 Best Italian • 2019 Best Italian • 2018 Best Italian • 2017 Best Italian 2016 Best New Restaurant And Best Italian

MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI PRESENTS THE 2020 ‘AIPONO RESTAURANT AWARD WINNERS What’s in a name? In Hawaiian, ai means “to eat,” and pono means “excellence.” Put them together and you have an awards competition that honors the island’s best restaurants as voted by the readers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi. Every year we announce the ‘Aipono award winners at our ‘Aipono Gala, an event that raises funds for the University of Hawai‘i Maui College Culinary Arts Program and creates real-world mentoring for tomorrow's chefs. Our ‘Aipono Wine Dinner Series also benefits the UH-Maui program, while inviting you to explore a world of outstanding wines paired with special menus at ‘Aipono award-winning restaurants. Sign up for notices of our upcoming wine dinners at MauiMagazine.net/aipono.

RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR Gold: Lahaina Grill Silver (tie): Kō, Mill House Honorable Mentions: Fleetwood’s on Front St., Japengo, Mama’s Fish House, Moku Roots BEST NEW RESTAURANT Gold: Fond Maui Silver: Tight Tacos Maui Honorable Mentions: All Kaina Grinds, Bāp Pā’ia, My Thai Maui, Vana MOST “MAUI-EST” Gold: Sea House Restaurant Silver: Joey’s Kitchen Honorable Mentions: Da Kitchen, Kō, Mama’s Fish House, Monkeypod Kitchen BEST SERVICE Gold: Lahaina Grill Silver: Ka‘ana Kitchen Honorable Mentions: Kō, Mama’s Fish House, Mill House, Monkeypod Kitchen BEST OCEANFRONT DINING Gold: Merriman’s Kapalua Silver: Sea House Restaurant Honorable Mentions: Honu Seafood & Pizza, Kimo’s Restaurant, Mala Ocean Tavern, Mama’s Fish House MOST ROMANTIC SETTING Gold: Mama’s Fish House Silver: The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea Honorable Mentions: Fleetwood’s on Front St., Japengo, Lahaina Grill, Mill House

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BEST CHEF’S TABLE Gold: Mill House Silver (tie): Ka‘ana Kitchen, nyloS Honorable Mentions: Fond Maui, Lineage BEST LOCAL FLAVOR Gold: Kō Silver: Da Kitchen Honorable Mentions: Lineage, Monkeypod Kitchen, Tin Roof Maui BEST HEALTHY FARE Gold: Choice Health Bar Silver: Moku Roots Honorable Mentions: a‘a Roots Maui, Down to Earth, Fork & Salad, Whole Foods Market MOST INNOVATIVE MENU Gold: Ka‘ana Kitchen Silver: Lineage Honorable Mentions: Moku Roots, nyloS, Star Noodle BEST BREAKFAST Gold: The Gazebo Silver: Sea House Restaurant Honorable Mentions: Akamai Coffee, Down the Hatch, Kihei Caffé, Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop BEST BUSINESS LUNCH Gold: Monkeypod Kitchen Silver: Mill House Honorable Mentions: Café O’Lei, Fleetwood’s on Front St., Seascape Ma‘alaea Restaurant, Taverna

BEST HAPPY HOUR Gold: Monkeypod Kitchen Silver: Down the Hatch Honorable Mentions: Hula Grill, Mill House, Sea House Restaurant, Three’s Bar & Grill BEST ASIAN CUISINE Gold: Star Noodle Silver: Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar Honorable Mentions: Japengo, Miso Phat Sushi, Nuka, Tanpopo Restaurant BEST SOUTHEAST ASIAN CUISINE Gold (tie): Nutcharee’s Authentic Thai Food, Thai Chef Restaurant Silver: A Saigon Café Honorable Mentions: Joey’s Kitchen, Lineage, Thai Mee Up, Vidad’s BEST BURGER Gold: Cool Cat Cafe Silver (tie): Cheeseburger in Paradise, Teddy’s Bigger Burgers Honorable Mentions: Mala Ocean Tavern, Mill House, Moku Roots, Taverna BEST HAWAI‘I REGIONAL CUISINE Gold: Kō Silver: The Banyan Tree Honorable Mentions: Hali‘imaile General Store, Mauka Makai, Merriman’s Kapalua, Mill House BEST PACIFIC RIM CUISINE Gold: Japengo Silver (tie): Humuhumu, Roy’s Honorable Mentions: Kō, Lahaina Grill, Mama’s Fish House, Star Noodle

BEST LŪ‘AU Gold: Old Lāhaina Lū‘au Silver: Drums of the Pacific Honorable Mentions: ‘Aha‘āina Wailea, The Feast at Lēlē, The Feast at Mōkapu, The Myths of Maui BEST MEXICAN CUISINE Gold: Frida’s Mexican Beach House Restaurant Silver: Amigo’s Honorable Mentions: Acevedos Hawaicano Cafe, Maui Tacos, Las Piñata’s, Roasted Chiles BEST ITALIAN CUISINE Gold: Sale Pepe Silver (tie): Matteo’s Osteria, Taverna Honorable Mentions: Bistro Casanova, Casanova Restaurant, Fabiani’s Bakery & Pizza, Pūlehu, an Italian Grill BEST MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE Gold: Pita Paradise Silver: Pizza Paradiso Honorable Mentions: Café Des Amis, Flatbread Company, Habibi on Maui, Mala Ocean Tavern BEST PLATE LUNCH Gold: Aloha Mixed Plate Silver: Da Kitchen Honorable Mentions: All Kaina Grindz, Honokowai Okazuya, Maui Fresh Streatery, Tin Roof Maui BEST PIZZA Gold: Flatbread Company Silver: Prison Street Pizza Honorable Mentions: Fabiani’s Bakery & Pizza, Lahaina Pizza, Monkeypod Kitchen, Sale Pepe BEST NOODLES Gold: Star Noodle Silver: Thai Mee Up Honorable Mentions: Aloha Mixed Plate, Sam Sato’s, Thai Chef, Umi Maui BEST FISH & SEAFOOD Gold: Mama’s Fish House Silver: Honu Seafood & Pizza Honorable Mentions: Fleetwood’s on Front St., Japengo, Kō, Mauka Makai BEST STEAK Gold: Ruth’s Chris Steak House Silver: Duo Steak & Seafood Honorable Mentions: Fleetwood’s on Front St., Lahaina Grill, Merriman’s Kapalua, Son’z Steakhouse

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BEST HANDCRAFTED COCKTAILS Gold: Monkeypod Kitchen Silver (tie): Mill House, Taverna Honorable Mentions: Lineage, Luana Lounge at Fairmont Kea Lani, Mala Ocean Tavern, Merriman’s Kapalua

BEST SUSHI Gold: Miso Phat Sushi Silver: Japengo Honorable Mentions: Morimoto Maui, Nuka, Sushi Paradise, Umi Maui

BEST LOBBY LOUNGE Gold: Alaloa Lounge at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua Silver (tie): Botero at Grand Wailea, Lobby Lounge at Four Seasons Maui Honorable Mentions: Lehua Lounge at Andaz, Luana Lounge at Fairmont Kea Lani

BEST COFFEE SHOP Gold: Akamai Coffee Co. Silver (tie): The Coffee Shop in Nāpili, Maui Coffee Roasters Honorable Mentions: Bad Ass Coffee, Honolulu Coffee, Mill House Roasting, Wailuku Coffee

BEST WINE LIST Gold: Lahaina Grill Silver: Fleetwood’s on Front St. Honorable Mentions: Mala OceanTavern, Merriman’s Kapalua, Mill House, Taverna

BEST FOOD TRUCK Gold: Maui Fresh Streatery Silver: Thai Mee Up Honorable Mentions: All Kaina Grindz, Geste Shrimp, Keyakiya, Ono Tacos BEST POKE Gold: Aloha Mixed Plate Silver: Auntie’s Kitchen Honorable Mentions: Eskimo Candy, Japengo, Kō, Monkeypod Kitchen BEST SHAVE ICE Gold: Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice Silver: Breakwall Shave Ice Company Honorable Mentions: Down the Hatch, Gus’ Hawaiian Shave Ice, Kō, Local Boys Shave Ice BEST DESSERT Gold: Mama’s Fish House Silver: Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop Honorable Mentions: Ka‘ana Kitchen, Kimo’s, Lahaina Grill, Monkeypod Kitchen BEST BAR Gold: Down the Hatch Silver: Fleetwood’s on Front St. Honorable Mentions: Mill House, Sea House Restaurant, Taverna, Umalu

BEST LATE-NIGHT DINING Gold: Down the Hatch Silver: The Pint & Cork Honorable Mentions: Mala Ocean Tavern, Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, Umalu BEST FARM-TO-TABLE CUISINE Gold: Mill House Silver: Pacific‘O Honorable Mentions: The Banyan Tree, Fork & Salad, Merriman’s Kapalua, Moku Roots BEST GOURMET GRAB & GO Gold (tie): Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, Tin Roof Maui Silver: Island Gourmet Markets Honorable Mentions: Choice Health Bar, Down to Earth, Honolua Store, Whole Foods Market

SPECIAL AWARDS: CHEF OF THE YEAR Taylor Ponte, Mill House LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT Peter Merriman FRIEND OF AGRICULTURE Greg Gifford, Duke’s Beach House Maui EXCELLENCE IN SUSTAINABILITY Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate EXCELLENCE IN SUSTAINABILITY RESTAURANT Moku Roots

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Every year Maui’s chefs vote to elect one of their own the ‘Aipono Chef of the Year, seeking the peer that most inspires them with creativity, knowledge, craftsmanship, innovation and community involvement. Here’s what a few chefs had to say about this year’s winner:

Chef Taylor's broad precise skill set, commitment to hard-working local food producers, and seemingly endless ability to make something common new again constantly leaves me inspired and in awe. —Jana McMahon, Chef/owner, ChefJana.com

I love Taylor’s energy and passion for cooking and his love of the Islands’ bounty of produce. —Craig Dryhurst, Executive Chef, Four Seasons Maui

Taylor is an inspiration.

ON PONTE

Mill House’s executive chef Taylor Ponte makes history by becoming the youngest winner ever of the ‘Aipono Chef of the Year award STORY BY BECKY SPEERE

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here is a certain type of student who enters the field of culinary arts with a clear vision of becoming a chef. Taylor Ponte was such a student. In UH Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program, he was always eager to volunteer, came early to class, stayed late, and learned outside the classroom. He read cookbooks avidly and followed the careers of notable chefs. He was not afraid of challenges. He dove into the prestigious Chaine de Rotisseurs Young Chef Competition, seizing the opportunity to transform the contents of a mystery basket into a three-course menu in just three-and-a-half hours. He was inspired by his peers and became a protégé of Jonathan Mizukami, another

UH Maui culinary school graduate who had gone on to become a sous chef at The French Laundry and executive chef of Vintage Cave Restaurant, then touted as O‘ahu’s top culinary venue. Ponte spent a summer with Mizukami, staging at Vintage Cave. At Mill House restaurant in Waikapū Valley, Ponte’s rise has been swift: He was first hired to be the executive sous chef, then chef de cuisine, then executive chef, the post he holds now. His childhood in Upcountry Maui instilled a deep understanding of local foods, local cultures, local tastes, and at Mill House, Ponte has put that knowledge to work, crafting a menu that elevates and celebrates Maui as it offers inventive and unique dishes like taro risotto and pork musubi and smoked fish profiteroles. Every Saturday night Mill House holds a Chef’s Table dinner, which features course after course that demonstrates Ponte’s proficiency in his chosen profession. In the spring of 2010—just ten years ago—Ponte was a high school senior preparing to graduate from King Kekaulike High School in Pukalani. This year the twenty-eight-year-old is the ‘Aipono Chef of the Year. Ten years from now, who knows where he’ll be? But wherever he is and whatever he’s doing, we feel confident it will be a success. MNKO is excited to announce that Ponte will be the featured chef at our next ‘Aipono Wine Dinner. See The Hot List in this issue for more details.

SOLEY ALOHA

—Paris Nabavi, Chef/owner, Pizza Paradiso

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eter Merriman traces his passion for food all the way back to a Pittsburgh childhood of fried bologna sandwiches, piroshki, and cherries jubilee. “I liked everything,” he says simply. His mother was a food writer, so a reverence for artful cuisine was in the family. As a young man, Merriman cooked in Vermont, Martha’s Vineyard, the Grand Tetons. He cooked in Frankfurt, where the Germans schooled him in precision and detail. In his late twenties, he took a job cooking at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel, his entrée to Hawai‘i—but while he was thrilled to

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Meet the 2020 ‘Aipono Lifetime Achievement Award winner: Peter Merriman

be in the Islands, he was disappointed to discover that hotel food in Hawai‘i was clichéd and colonial. When he interviewed for a job at a new restaurant, he was asked what type of cuisine he would do if he could do anything. “Local cuisine,” he shot back. He got the job, and from it grew his commitment to what would become the Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine movement, a movement that has transformed the food that is now served in Hawai‘i’s restaurants. It was 1988 when Merriman opened his first restaurant. It was in Waimea,and, he says, the first chefowned Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine establishment. The emphasis was on fresh ingredients, local relevance, creativity, cultural fusion, great tastes. Today Merriman owns ten restaurants across the Islands, including three in Maui, and the emphasis on place and artistry has remained: The restaurants offer high quality, high volume, high times. Looking back, Merriman says he is most proud of the relationships that he’s built with farmers and ranchers. “We are satisfied when we see people who have built careers,” he says, “and we know we were among their earliest customers.” He is also gratified to see the influence and staying power of Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine: “It’s provided jobs for thousands of people.” As for food, he still likes eating everything. His choices are healthier now, he likes fresh things, has a passion for Mexican food. But the apotheosis, his very favorite thing of all to eat, is a good cheeseburger. “‘If you’re going to eat a cheeseburger,’” he says, “‘make it a good one.’ That’s one of my rules for life.”

SEA-TO-TABLE CUISINE On Napili Bay

AWARD

WINNING

Hawaii Magazine’s Third Annual Reader’s Choice Awards: Named One of the Top Five ”Best Hotel/Resort Restaurants” and "Best for Breakfast" in the state of Hawaii

OCEANFRONT Rated “Excellent” by Zagat

Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner • Happy Hour

DINING

Maui No Ka Oi Magazine’s Annual Maui Restaurant 'Aipono Culinary Awards: Best Ocean Front Dining: Gold

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Celebrating Over 55 Years of Aloha at Napili Kai Beach Resort 5900 Lower Honoapiilani Rd • Napili • Maui • Hawaii 96761 • 808.669.1500

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reg Gifford grew up on Cape Cod, feasting on the tomatoes, zucchini, rhubarb and other bounty that his mother would harvest from the family’s backyard garden; Greg’s contribution was the bones of the fish he caught in local waters, which he’d bury in the garden’s soil to provide it with nutrients. He entered the restaurant business at fourteen when he was hired as a dishwasher at a local diner. There, chef after chef hurled burnt pans at him, and he decided he’d rather have their job—which he now does, though through his thick New England accent he laughs,

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Meet the 2020 ‘Aipono Friend of Agriculture Award winner: Greg Gifford

“But I’m doing right by the dishwashers! I don’t burn the pans.” It was not long after Gifford graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in 1982 that a friend of his mother’s gave him the phone number of a guy on Maui named Dickie Moon. Gifford called Moon, who was then the VP of TS Restaurant Group. “If you come out, I can get you a job,” Moon promised. Gifford got on a plane, Moon kept his word, and three decades later, Gifford is still with the company, now as the head chef at Duke’s Beach House in Kā‘anapali. In this capacity, he has befriended Maui’s farmers, incorporating their produce into the dishes that leave his kitchen: rainbow baby carrots, sweet Kula greens, vivid cherry tomatoes. He uses Maui grown whenever he can: avocados, corn, bananas, mangoes, herbs, ti leaves. ““Farmers and chefs both work long hours,” Gifford says. “We build relationships out of the needs we have. Certain farmers love to farm and you can taste it. It’s not easy: Farmers on Maui deal with rainstorms, floods, drought, and land is definitely not cheap. They can’t do it alone and a wonderful way to support them is to put what they’re growing on the plates we’re serving.” It was Gifford’s stalwart commitment to Maui’s farmers that won him this year’s award. “We may have to rely on the Mainland for toilet paper,” he says, “but why for food?”

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• ALWAY S LOC AL BREAKFAST LUNCH DINNER RESERVATIONS WALK-INS TAKE-OUT

en years ago Gunars Valkirs began planning to create a jungle on an open plain, and then he started planting trees: cacao to be harvested to the future, other species to block wind and provide a canopy. Valkirs has now planted seven thousand cacao trees and five thousand others over twenty acres in the Maui ahupua‘a of Ku‘ia. The trees’ presence in the landscape, he believes, may well give the company he founded, Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate, a negative carbon footprint. The trees are only one part of a comprehensive green whole: The factory, run entirely off solar, is not even connected to the grid. The packaging of Maui Ku‘ia’s chocolate bars is near 100 percent compostable. But 98

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it is not just all that, notes Valkirs, that makes the company sustainable. There is more. Valkirs (seen here with company VP Krishna Narayan) likes to talk about sustainability. He notes that most associate the word with being environmentally responsible. He’d like to see the definition go further. “We have a broader mission,” he says: giving 100 percent of Maui Ku‘ia’s net profits back to the community through donations to non-profit organizations. “Culturally in Hawai‘i my understanding is that the most important thing about a company is why it exists,” Valkirs says. “We have created a for-profit company that exists solely to give back to the community.”

The inspiration came from Valkirs’ own love of chocolate and his practice of donating to Maui non-profits—why not combine the two, he thought, to create a model of a purely philanthropic business? He and others with whom he works in the field continue to plant cacao, assessing and selecting the trees for flavor and productivity as they go. Valkirs pays the farm’s laborers $20 an hour on average with full benefits, he says, given that a living wage is yet another component of a truly sustainable endeavor. The plans are to keep planting until fifty acres are under cultivation—and to keep making and selling chocolate that will enrich the very place in which it is grown.

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Meet the 2020 ‘Aipono Excellence in Sustainability Award winner: Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate

“We Know Wine” meet our maui team

James Maher Tod Clayton S. Maui Sales W. Maui Sales Certified Sommelier Certified Sommelier

Meet the 2020 ‘Aipono Excellence in Sustainability Restaurant Award winner: Moku Roots

MOKU ROOTS

andwiched in the online menu between the Buffalo Cauliflower Wrap and the Butternut Squash Alfredo are the words of Moku Roots’ owners Alexa Caskey (left) and Erica Gale (right), who have adopted a zero-waste stance at their Lahaina restaurant: Plates and salads can be taken to-go in a reusable Moku Roots tin for a fully refundable $10 deposit or opt to bring your own container. In the two years it’s been open, the staff at this vegan award-winner have wrapped takeout orders and leftovers in beautiful ti leaf bundles snugly secured with banana bark “string.” At a recent five-course fundraiser dinner for school gardens’ champion Grow Some Good, seat placement “cards” were written on ti leaves. “From the very beginning,” says Alexa, “Erica and I knew that we wanted to create a business that didn’t contribute to the ever-growing waste problems on

our small island. When we looked into packaging for take-out, we knew there were better alternatives to Styrofoam and plastic. Visiting distant places like Bali and Thailand gave us some great ideas for using banana and ti leaves. It was an organic choice to be waste-free.” “Another outcome of our packaging is supporting ti leaf farmers on the island,” adds Erica. “It may seem like a small, unimportant move, but every dollar counts to farmers who work hard on their land to give us produce and ti. Another point to make is that the money stays on our island. By investing in local agriculture, we know it is the right thing to do.” In the long haul, diverting tons of organic food waste from Moku Roots’s kitchen into compost will be contributing to building good soil and aligning the restaurant directly with farmers. It’s proven to be a rich circle of life indeed.

Charles Fredy VP, Director of Sales & Marketing Advanced Sommelier

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hawaii’s fine wine specialist since 1979 EST. 1973 @ChambersWinesHawaii @chamberswineshi

www.chamberswines.com

‘AIPONO 2020 AWARD WINNER INDEX

2020 was a good year for clear vision: Mahalo to all of our readers who knew what they liked and who voted for their favorites in this year’s ‘Aipono Restaurant Award competition. Here are all our winners and honorees. Congratulations everyone!

a‘a Roots Maui, Nāpili Acevedos Hawaicano Café, Kahului ‘Aha‘āina Wailea, Wailea Akamai Coffee Co., Kahului, Kīhei and Wailea Alaloa Lounge at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, Kapalua All Kaina Grinds, Pukalani Aloha Mixed Plate, Lahaina Amigo’s, Kahului, Kīhei and Lahaina Auntie’s Kitchen, Kā‘anapali Bad Ass Coffee, Lahaina The Banyan Tree, Kapalua Bāp Pā’ia, Pā‘ia Bistro Casanova, Kahului Botero at Grand Wailea, Wailea Breakwall Shave Ice Company, Lahaina Café Des Amis, Pā‘ia Café O’Lei, Kīhei and Wailuku

Client: Leoda’s Trim 4.64" x4. Color: FULL

AND OUR HOMEMADE SWEET & SAVORY PIES

OPEN DAILY FROM 7AM to 8PM

BREAKFAST • LUNCH • DINNER leodaskitchenandpieshop leodasmaui

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leodasmaui

Two exciting farm tours in one unique setting

GOURMET LUNCH

SEED to CUP

Explore our gardens and enjoy a gourmet lunch prepared in your presence with freshly harvested natural produce.

Learn about the growing and roasting of coffee beans and conclude with the “perfect cappuccino” .

TOURS ARE WEEKDAYS 8:30 a.m. and 10:30 a.m.

O’o Farm is the exclusive farm for Pacific’O Restaurant in Lahaina By Reservation only: 808.667.4341 • www.oofarm.com

Lahaina Fried Soup Pohole Salad HAPA RAMEN STAR UDON AHI AVO GARLIC NOODLES Singapore Noodles Steamed Pork Buns PAD THAI malasadas SAKE COCKTAILS

FRESH HOUSE MADE NOODLES & ASIAN SPECIALTIES SERVING LUNCH & DINNER

286 KUPUOHI STREET AT THE TOP OF LAHAINA BUSINESS PARK

RESERVATIONS & TAKE-OUT

808.667.5400

100% Extra Virgin Maui Olive Oil Unfiltered, cold pressed Grown & hand harvested on Haleakalā, Maui Artisanal processing Visit our Farmstand in Kula on Waipoli Road

www.MauiOlive.com Info@MauiOlive.com

G U I D E D I N I N G

Casanova Restaurant, Makawao Cheeseburger in Paradise, Lahaina and Wailea Choice Health Bar, Kā‘anapali, Lahaina and Pā‘ia The Coffee Shop in Nāpili, Nāpili Cool Cat Cafe, Lahaina Da Kitchen, Kahului and Kīhei Down the Hatch, Lahaina Down to Earth, Kahului Drums of the Pacific, Kā‘anapali Duo Steak & Seafood, Wailea

Restaurant open daily 10am – 9pm 335 Keawe St, Lahaina Gateway 808-661-9111

Eskimo Candy, Kīhei Fabiani’s Bakery & Pizza, Kīhei The Feast at Lēlē, Lahaina The Feast at Mōkapu, Wailea Flatbread Company, Pā‘ia Fleetwood’s on Front St., Lahaina Fond Maui, Nāpili Fork & Salad, Kahului and Kīhei Frida’s Mexican Beach House Restaurant,

‘Aipono Awards 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

BEST SUSHI HAPPY HOUR

daily from 3 to 5 pm

Lahaina The Gazebo, Nāpili Geste Shrimp, Kahului Gus’ Hawaiian Shave Ice, Kīhei Habibi on Maui, Makawao Hāli‘imaile General Store, Hāli‘imaile Honokowai Okazuya, Honokōwai Honolua Store, Kapalua Honolulu Coffee, island-wide Honu Seafood & Pizza, Lahaina Hula Grill, Kā‘anapali Humuhumu, Wailea Island Gourmet Markets, Wailea Japengo, Kā‘anapali Joey’s Kitchen, Kā‘anapali and Nāpili Ka‘ana Kitchen, Wailea Keyakiya, Kahului Kihei Caffé, Kīhei Kimo’s Restaurant, Lahaina

MISOPHAT.COM

(808) 891 MISO (6476) Azeka Shopping Center - Mauka 1279 S. Kihei Rd. Suite #108, Kihei

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Kō, Wailea Lahaina Grill, Lahaina Lahaina Pizza, Lahaina Las Piñata’s, Kahului

Working together towards a healthier Maui youth!

Heart.org/MauiKids | 808.212.4861

2016

2017

2018

2019

2020

Just steps from the waterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s edge. Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!

Pacificâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com

The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours. 505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com

D I N I N G G U I D E

Lehua Lounge at Andaz, Wailea Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, Olowalu Lineage, Wailea Lobby Lounge at Four Seasons Maui, Wailea Local Boys Shave Ice, Kīhei and Lahaina Luana Lounge at Fairmont Kea Lani, Wailea Mala Ocean Tavern, Lahaina Mama’s Fish House, Kū‘au Matteo’s Osteria, Wailea Maui Coffee Roasters, Kahului Maui Fresh Streatery, Kahului Maui Tacos, Kahului, Kīhei and Nāpili Mauka Makai, Kā‘anapali Merriman’s Kapalua, Kapalua Mill House, Wailuku Mill House Roasting, Wailuku Miso Phat Sushi, Kīhei and Kahana Moku Roots, Lahaina Monkeypod Kitchen, Kā‘anapali and Wailea Morimoto Maui, Wailea My Thai Maui, Kahului The Myths of Maui, Kā‘anapali Nuka, Ha‘ikū Nutcharee’s Authentic Thai Food, Kīhei nyloS, Pā‘ia Old Lāhaina Lū‘au, Lahaina Ono Tacos, Lahaina Pacific‘O, Lahaina The Pint & Cork, Wailea Pita Paradise, Wailea Pizza Paradiso, Honokōwai Prison Street Pizza, Lahaina Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, Kā‘anapali The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea, Wailea Roasted Chiles, Kīhei Roy’s, Kā‘anapali Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Lahaina and Wailea A Saigon Café, Wailuku Sale Pepe, Lahaina Sam Sato’s, Wailuku Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, Kapalua and Kīhei Sea House Restaurant, Nāpili Seascape Mā‘alaea Restaurant, Mā‘alaea MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAY-JUN 2020

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maui’s better with ‘ono food hula grill leilani’s on the beach monkeypod kitchen joey’s kitchen island vintage coffee

Experience art with aloha at Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center art classes & workshops • exhibitions • gift shop • tours

beachfront shopping, dining and entertainment. whalersvillage.com

OPEN MONDAY-SATURDAY | 9AM-4PM

2841 BALDWIN AVE, MAKAWAO |HUINOEAU.COM | 808.572.6560

D I N I N G

BEST COFFEE DRINKS ON ISLAND

Star Noodle, Lahaina

G U I D E

Son’z Steakhouse, Kā‘anapali

Fresh Baked Goods Healthy Snacks Vegan & Gluten Free Items Fresh Roasted Hawaiian Coffee

Sushi Paradise, Kīhei Tanpopo Restaurant, Kīhei Taverna, Kapalua Teddy’s Bigger Burgers, Lahaina Thai Chef, Lahaina Thai Mee Up, Kahului and Pukalani Three’s Bar & Grill, Kīhei Tight Tacos Maui, Kahului Tin Roof Maui, Kahului Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice, island-wide ʻUmalu, Kā‘anapali Umi Maui, Wailuku Vana, Pā‘ia Vidad’s, Kīhei Wailuku Coffee, Ha‘ikū and Wailuku Whole Foods Market, Kahului

Located in Napili Plaza

minutes from Ka‘anapali & Kapalua

5095 Napilihau St., Lahaina www.napilicoffeestore.com

NO.

FINE DINING RESTAURANT

in america tripadvisor 2019

RESTAURANT

of the

YEAR

- maui no ka oi magazine

sautéed local mahi-mahi

herbed mashed potatoes, sautéed spinach, gorgonzola cheese, pancetta, chardonnay beurre blanc

808.667.5117 www.lahainagrill.com 127 lahainaluna road, lahaina, maui, hawaii 96761

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAY-JUN 2020

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W H O

‘A I P O N O WINE DINNER

W H O ' S

KŌ AT T H E FA I R M O N T K E A L A N I R E SO RT F E B RUA RY 2 2, 20 20 A BENEFIT FOR THE UH MAUI COLLEGE CULINARY ARTS PROGRAM

Gerrianne Sakamoto & Tama Brandeburg

Brian & Shannon Ward & Adele Rugg

Thomas & Eva Kafsack

Tim Moyer & Brian Larson

Jill & Doug Schatz

Sharon & Joe Saunders, founders of MKCWH

Krishna & Sherrie Narayan

Young & Skip Seroy

Peggy Lyn & Chris Speicher

Dale & AnnMarie Forsythe, Tim Garcia, Susan O’Shaunessy & Bryan Luther

Sheila Walker, Joe & Bev Gannon

Tori, Chris & Becky Speere

Randy & Jackie Hatch, Brit Miller & Elaine Bruillard

M AU I K I DS COOK WITH H E A RT

H OST E D BY S H A RO N A N D J O E SAU N D E RS F E B RUA RY 8, 20 20 A B E N E F I T FO R M AU I K I DS C O O K W I T H H E A RT

Gunars & JoRene Valkirs

FAIRMONT KEA LANI RESORT F E B RUA RY 1 5, 20 20 A B E N E F I T FO R BO O K T RU ST

Laura & Lou Weinstein

Diane Woodburn, Brenda Scholl & Sarah Shaines

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Were you at one of our "Who’s Who” events? Find your photo online at Facebook.com/MauiMagazine

TOP AND MIDDLE: MEIKO HORIKOSHI; BOTTOM: LESLIE TURNER

BO O K T RU ST

Acaí Bowls • Smoothies • Coffee Open Daily 7:30am - 6pm 43 Hana Hwy, Paia

Fine Handcrafted Jewelry

18k pendant with 12.61ct Solid Black opal and 1.05ctw diamonds. Designer: Brian Thompson 3655 Baldwin Ave, Makawao HI 96768 808.573.5400 | MauiMasterJewelers@Hawaiiantel.net

@paiabowls • (808) 214-6504

Discover island-inspired resort wear, unique jewelry, locally-made gifts, beach accessories and much more! Located in The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa Open 7am – 11pm daily • (808) 667-7801

HOT

MAY.09

THE

L I S T

OUR LATEST CURATED LIST OF MUSTSEE-ANDDO EVENTS

9 AM - 4 PM Seabury Hall Craft Fair

Need a last-minute gift for mom? Held the day before Mother’s Day, this annual craft fair features more than 100 artisan vendors, along with food, live music, a silent auction, rummage sale, and family-friendly activities. Seabury Hall, 480 Olinda Road, Makawao. SeaburyHall.org

BARRIO FIESTA

M AY 2 2 , 5 P. M . , M AY 2 3 , 1 0 A . M . Maui’s annual Barrio Fiesta is exactly what its name implies: a neighborhood party. The event honors Filipino culture and features traditional food, music, dance, and games. Binhi at Ani Filipino Community Center, 780 Onehe‘e Avenue, Kahului. BinhiAtAni.org

MAUI BREWERS FESTIVAL MAY 16, 3:30 PM - 7:00 PM

06 12 20

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‘AIPONO WINE DINNER

THE WINNER OF THE 2020 ‘AIPONO CHEF OF THE YEAR AWARD,

Chef Taylor Ponte of The Mill House will host June’s ‘Aipono wine dinner, part of MNKO’s wine dinner series benefiting UH Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program. Each course is expertly paired with world-class wines. For reservations, call 808-270-0333 (limited to 45 people). Mill House Chef’s Table, Wailuku. MauiMagazine.net/AiponoDinners

MAUIMAGAZINE.NET

Find a wealth of activities and entertainment at MauiMagazine.net/maui-events. Some events may have had to reschedule due to COVID-19. Please double-check for updates.

FAR LEFT: BRYAN BERKOWITZ

Expand your beer palate at this tasting event and fundraiser for the Maui Arts & Cultural Center. Sample craft beers from local and national brewers and enjoy live music, giveaways, and food from local restaurants and caterers. Yokouchi Pavilion and A&B Amphitheater at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center, 1 Cameron Way, Kahului. MauiArts.org

THE MAGAZINE FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE MAUI SUBSCRIBE.MAUIMAGAZINE.NET 844-808-MAUI (6284)

HOT

THE

L I S T

JUNE 17 - 21

Maui Film Festival

LIGHTS, CAMERAS, AND PLENTY OF ACTION.

Now in its twenty-first year, this star-studded festival will serve up a mix of cinematic fare, celebrity sightings, filmmakers’ panels, culinary events, and lavish parties. Wailea Resort and the Maui Arts & Cultural Center’s Castle Theater. Special event and multilevel VIP passes available at MauiFilmFestival.com.

JUNE 20&21 NĀ KAMEHAMEHA COMMEMORATIVE PĀ‘Ū PARADE & HO‘OLAULE‘A

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1 PM - 7 PM

}

JUNE 28,

Lahaina’s longest-running event honors King Kamehameha I, the monarch who united the Hawaiian Islands. The festivities begin with a pā‘ū parade of female horseback riders down Front Street on Saturday morning, followed by a free two-day ho‘olaule‘a (celebration) at Lahaina Banyan Court Park. Parade starts at Kenui Street and ends at Shaw Street in Lahaina.

MAUI SLACK

KEY GUITAR FESTIVAL

This free open-air concert series features some of Hawai‘i’s most talented slack key guitar players, along with craft and food booths. A&B Amphitheater at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center, 1 Cameron Way, Kahului. MauiArts.org

Find a wealth of activities and entertainment at MauiMagazine.net/maui-events. Some events may have had to reschedule due to COVID-19. Please double-check for updates.

Come join us for the Chambers and Chambers Wine Merchants Wine Bar, featuring the producers of Naveran, Alois Caulino, Cherchi, Domaine Triennes, Domaine des Lises and Domaine Barroche. These small, artisan producers will excite your senses and dazzle your palate. Guest sommeliers, James Maher and Charles Fredy will be on hand to provide insight to the history and people behind the wines as you indulge in the wonderful cuisine of Chef Taylor Ponte.

‘AIPONO WINE DINNER

COCKTAIL HOUR APPETIZERS

oyster | kosho | pickled onion | avocado toast trout roe | “everything” crumble smoked fish toast, fermented shallots

DINNER

amuse bouche: tomato water gelée | burrata | olive oil purée

FIRST COURSE

06/12/20

confit duck paté | compressed butternut squash pomegranate gastrique | pistachio streusel

SECOND COURSE

fried panisse | summer squash | harissa eggplant caponata

MILL HOUSE, CHEF’S TABLE AND VILLAGE LAWN AT MAUI TROPICAL PLANTATION

MAIN

herb-roasted chicken roulade | corn purée, farro | cured pork belly

*A PORTION OF THE PROCEEDS BENEFITS UH MAUI COLLEGE CULINARY ARTS PROGRAM AND UH MAUI FOOD INNOVATION CENTER

808-270-0333

$145 PER

PERSON*

EXCLUDING TAX AND GRATUITY

6:00PM RECEPTION 7:00PM DINNER

DESSERT

layered almond cheesecake meyer lemon sorbet marcona almonds

WINE

Sommeliers Charles Fredy and James Maher of Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants will showcase wines from small artisan producers in the Mediterranean coastal regions of Spain, France, and Italy, offering insight into the history and people behind the wines of Naveran, Alois, Vinicola Cherchi, Triennes, Domaine des Lises, and Domaine La Barroche.

CHEF TAYLOR PONTE, EXECUTIVE CHEF Starting his Mill House journey as Executive Sous Chef Taylor grew into the role of Chef de Cuisine and now Executive Chef. Chef Ponte, a graduate of Maui Culinary Academy, worked alongside Chef Alan Wong, Chef Jonathan Mizukami, and Chef Chris Damsky prior to The Mill House. With Executive Chef Ponte at the helm, we are excited to expand our support of local farms and continuous efforts towards greater sustainability. Utilizing Chef Ponte’s leadership we welcome opportunities to connect with our community and provide more opportunities for aspiring chefs and hospitality students. Having been born and raised here on island Chef Ponte has established relationships with Maui’s farmers and ranchers. He uses his knowledge of Maui’s mixed cultures to craft storied dishes. Chef Ponte has his eyes on the dining room and kitchen, working with the entire Mill House team to ensure a wonderful environment, excellent food and memorable service for Maui residents and visitors.

Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, UH Maui Culinary Arts Program, and UH Food Innovation Center

Cel eb

40 Years in Ha ing rat

ii wa

HELD IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

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I T I N E R A R Y

PERFECT DAY: LAND & SEA Exploring Maui’s Upcountry and North Shore from the ground up STORY BY LEHIA APANA ILLUSTRATION BY C.M. BUTZER

O‘o Farm 10:30am

Before Maui earned fame as a travel destination, agriculture led the island’s economy. Although largescale farming has dwindled, boutique growers and agritourism operations continue to showcase local fare. For a taste of Maui’s agricultural heritage, start with a tour and lunch at O‘o Farm. Most of the produce grown on this eight-acre farm—forty thousand pounds last year alone—is consumed onsite; the rest is served at O‘o’s sister restaurant Pacific‘O. Begin with an easy walking tour through O‘o’s orchards to learn about the farm’s regenerative growing prac-

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tices and coffee roasting, before harvesting ingredients that will be used for an al fresco feast. OoFarm.com

Ali‘i Kula Lavender 1:45pm

Less than a mile away from O‘o is the family-owned Ali‘i Kula Lavender farm. Set at an elevation of four thousand feet, this aromatic attraction offers one of the most mesmerizing views of the central valley. Explore on your own, or join a guided tour that winds through lavender fields and botanical gardens. The gift shop sells close to one hundred lavender products, including fresh scones and tea. AliiKulaLavender.com

Pā‘ia via Baldwin Ave. 3:30pm

Each spring Upcountry roads are covered with the lilac-hued blossoms of the jacaranda tree. This seasonal vibrancy is especially lush along Lower Kula and Old Haleakalā highways. Follow one of these roads to reach scenic Baldwin Avenue, which starts in the center of Makawao town and heads north toward Pā‘ia. Spanning just seven miles, Baldwin Avenue is home to several noteworthy religious sites. Makawao Union Church is a stone structure designed by prominent Hawai‘i architect C.W. Dickey; built in 1916, it’s on the National Register of Historic Places. One mile

farther north is Holy Rosary Catholic Church with gothic architecture, stained glass windows, and a marble statue of St. Damien. At the entrance to Pā‘ia, stop at the Maui Dharma Center and spin the prayer wheel that sits inside a stupa consecrated by the Dalai Lama himself. While in Pā‘ia, grab a picnic dinner at Mana Foods to enjoy at the next stop. MakawaoUnionChurch. org; MauiDharmaCenter.org; ManaFoodsMaui.com

Ho‘okipa Beach Park

nearshore reef and strong currents can make it a dangerous place to swim or to learn to surf. But it’s tops for hanging out and watching windsurfing pros or seasoned surfers. Perch along the park’s cliff-side lookout for a view of the action and enjoy your picnic. This salt-sprayed playground is also a gathering place for the beloved honu (green sea turtles) that swim ashore to rest. But remember, love them from a distance. Feeding or touching the honu is totally uncool—and totally illegal.

Ho‘okipa may mean “to show hospitality,” but Ho‘okipa Beach Park isn’t welcoming in every way—its shallow,

Follow Lehia Apana on her “Perfect Day” at MauiMagazine.net/ upcountry-day-trip

6:15pm

Serving Hawaii Is Our Business

Pasha Hawaii delivers the broadest scope of ocean transportation services between Hawaii and the Mainland. Our fully enclosed, roll-on/ roll-off vessel M/V Jean Anne provides superior protection for cargo of all sizes and direct service between the Mainland and Maui. Find out more at pashahawaii.com.

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