2022 September/October Mazama Bulletin

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President’s Message, p. 4

Upcoming Courses, Activities, & Events, p. 6 Mazama Membership, p. 7

CONTENTS

Executive Board Minutes, p. 30 Colophon, p. 31

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 3

Cover: Nick Sweeney climbing on the West Buttress of Cassin Ridge around 17,000 feet during acclimitization. Photo by Kyle Tarry. Above: New member Clint Campbell on the summit of Mount St. Helens, July 6, 2022.

What’s Happening Around the Mazamas?, p. 8 Saying Goodbye, p. 11 Mazama Classics, p. 12 Mazama Research Grants Awarded, p. 13

Time to Renew Your Membership, p. 15

Appalachian Mountain Club Case Study, p. 14

Climbing The Cassin Ridge, p. 16 2022 Mazama Voter Guide , p. 22 Fast Times In The Flyboys Conga Line, p. 27

IN THIS ISSUE

FEATURESCOLUMNS

I remember reading about this route early in my mountaineering career and marveling at its sheer size; its combination of high altitude, cold, and technical climbing; and the commitment required to embark on a climb of this scale that has limited retreat options." p.16 It was an opportunity just waiting to happen. Then thanks to some initial and ongoing very—make that extremely—talented and dedicated board members, supporters and staff, we were able to take full advantage of that opportunity,”

hearing raves about Flyboys for a few years. Just down the road from Washington Pass, the 18-pitch bolted route snakes 1800 feet up Goat Wall, which looms over the Methow Valley near the tiny town of Mazama," p.27

MAZAMA BULLETIN Volume September/OctoberNumber1045 2022

I’dp.14been

Interim Executive Director’s Message, p. 5

It’s been a while since I’ve had an article published, and quite a few things have been happening since our two online town hall meetings in March and May. Here’s a quick recap. You may remember that we had a focused strategic assessment done in December that gave us eleven recommendations.

■ Resolve finance and budget challenges ■ Focus on fundraising and developing new revenue sources to remain solvent ■ Improve communication organizationwide ■ Improve role clarity throughout the organization ■ Make the bylaws revisions necessary to remain a viable organization

■ Giffort-Pinchot, et al., are requiring the Mazamas to apply for commercial outfitter-guide permits.

■ Outfitter-guide permits would require fees from each forest for each application. □ We are uncertain what the cost per permit would be at this time.

□ A separate permit would be required for each Forest.

□ We have a commerciallong-grandfatheredoutfitter-guidepermit for Mt. Hood. It requires substantial staff time to renew every year.

On finances, we're working with our CPA to reduce redundant processes, redefining our budgeting process to be easier to use, and looking for ways to increase involvement by our committees. We hope to give committees more agency in the overall process. These changes are helpful, but we're still working through the learning process and expect them to pay off in time.Greg Scott, Executive Council Secretary, and Kaleen have spearheaded a fundraising campaign, planned for FY23, for the lodge. This is a great start, as the lodge has some long-deferred maintenance. Restarting the Development Committee is still on the to-do list to facilitate fundraising activities beyond capital projects.

4 MAZAMAS

The board chose to focus on five of those for this year and they are:

□ Some forests don’t consider us an outfitter-guide, but this could change at any time. ■ The determination of outfitter-guide status is centered on whether we charge money for activities within the forest.

□ All activities for the year must be listed on the application.

□ Non-profit tax status does not matter.

■ Each Forest interprets the law defining outfitter-guide organizations independently.

PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE

Overall we’ve made progress on these, but there is still much to do.

□ Given the workload to complete applications this effort would likely require a full-time staff person to Thismanage.isa complex challenge no one was expecting. The board intends to reform an Access Committee, with representatives from our different activity groups, to explore solutions. The board has initially discussed some options that the not-yetformed committee can get started with once the committee is reestablished. Option one could be to accept the bureaucracy and continue hosting climbs and hikes as we currently are, and charging for them. There would be some significant changes, however. Along with the cost of hiring a long time staff person to establish relationships with the Forests, and process the permit applications, all climbs and hikes would need to be submitted with the applications about a year in advance. This would make the climb and hike schedules ridgid without the ability to add activities mid-year. The extra permit fees and personnel costs would likely require substantial increases in climb fees. Best case, our climbing and hiking programs would be limited in scope and more expensive than currently. continued on the next page

by Jesse MazamaApplegate,President

To improve communications, Gina has reestablished our social media presence, and initiated work on a Road Ahead page to help keep members abreast of progress on the five focused assessment points. Kaleen has been reaching out to various stakeholders in all our activities to both collaborate on solving day-to-day problems and solicit their input on changes. For our current staff, there is an ever-present imbalance in workload vs. capacity that makes it challenging to keep up with daily tasks while trying to make progress on future changes. Each of our staff members wears many different hats, and although they may have particular specialties, they all currently perform at least three or more roles. The board continues to look for ways to mitigate this imbalance. While we have lots of ideas, getting everyone onboard with them and navigating our eternal demons (role clarity, responsibilities, and who can or should do what) continues to be a considerable challenge. However, we have the resources we need to change this if we choose to use them.In July, the Mazamas learned that we could no longer operate organized climbs and hikes in the Gifford-Pinchot, BakerSnoqualmie, and Inyo National Forests. This situation is a big deal because, on the surface, it looks like we won’t be able to climb and hike in areas that are part of our soul. Greg Scott has contacted those forests and talked with other organizations about their experiences. In researching the history of our outfitter-guide permit for Mount Hood National Forest in our archives, Greg discovered that a situation like this has not happened in our 128-year history. Here are the summary points Greg found:

□ Permit applications are yearly. Approval for the year is not guaranteed.

□ The requirement for permits appears to be prompted from staffing challenges and larger factors within the USDA stemming from the COVID-19 pandemic and is not punitive.

□ The amount of money charged for activities is not a factor.

□ We operate in 17 National Forests. Potentially, we would have to apply for a permit in each one every year.

INTERIM

Thefinalizing.Executive

DIRECTOR’SEXECUTIVE

In short, our world has changed, and this is our moment to respond by adjusting how we oversee and operate our organization ensuring we can continue to fulfill our mission as a leading climbing, conservation, and outdoor recreation focused nonprofit. Our aim is to make certain that the rationale for belonging to the Mazamas remains compelling, with benefits such as being part of a climbing community, training and safety, wilderness access, protection of our beloved mountains, use of our cherished and historic lodge, as well as developing the new and exciting opportunities we want to give our members in the years to come.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 5

Have you renewed your membership for 2022-2023 yet? In addition to the quality classes hikes and activities you love, we are adding to our educational opportunities, with classes like our Introduction to Alpine Climbing course. We are also continuing with convenient virtual and hybrid offerings as COVID-19 remains present and we seek to give everyone a safe and comfortable path to engaging with the Mazamas. The more members we can attract, the greater the opportunity we get to achieve the #1 reason for belonging to the Mazamas that I heard from all of you when we met, and that is COMMUNITY.

The past several years have been challenging, to say the least. Over the past nine months, we’ve aimed to be very transparent about the fiscal challenges the Mazamas face due to COVID-19, on-going membership decline, constraints we’ve placed on ourselves with our governance structure, and changing requirements in the national forests where we climb, hike, and recreate.

Option two could be to make climbs and hikes free to all members and avoid needing outfitter-guide permits in national forests where we operate. This option would require eliminating the glaciated peak requirement because we could no longer have a member and non-member option for climbs. Still, it would expand our climbing and hiking programs to suit our community better and enable us to continue our mission. This approach would require funding climbs and hikes from a different source, such as membership dues or a combination of sources. As a rough estimate, with a nominal increase in regular dues, and commensurate increases for other categories, members could get unlimited climbs and hikes for about the average cost of one climb. Other considerations include offering leaders membership discounts as an incentive to put on climbs and hikes and a mechanism to limit no-shows. Funding options and their details, as well as evaluating how our climbing and hiking programs could adapt, would need to be further explored by the Access Committee and leadership team before Council has discussed options for navigating this challenge, but this is a prime example of where our hands are tied. We need you, the membership, to help us as there are significant changes that our current bylaws require the membership to decide. In this effort, we’re working with a nonprofit legal expert to help us draft a new set of bylaws that more closely follows Oregon statutes. The outcome, we hope, will enable us to adapt to these challenges so we can continue for another 128 years. As I write this, we intend to share them within several weeks.

The Mazamas is the place where many of you meet new friends who share your love of the outdoors. With that in mind, please renew your membership today. Another critically important way for you to stay engaged with the Mazamas is by casting your vote in our upcoming election.

In our fall cycle, members will vote on three new Executive Council (Board of Directors) positions and three new Nominating Committee positions. Current Mazama members are eligible to vote, remember your membership must be current as of September 1 of this year to be eligible to vote in this election cycle. Voting opens September 3, 2022 at 9 a.m. Please read the voter’s guide contained in this edition of the Bulletin and give some thought to how you can help shape our future by selecting the best people to help lead our great organization to a vibrant future. Your vote matters, thank you for participating!

MESSAGE

by Kaleen Deatherage, Mazama Interim Executive Director

The last event I want to share in this edition is our upcoming volunteer appreciation event. It has been a while since we have gathered solely to socialize. And what better way to restart this practice then by honoring the many volunteers who make the Mazamas possible. Join us from 5:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m., Thursday, Sept. 15 at the Markowitz Herbold law firm in downtown Portland. They have a beautiful outdoor deck and lovely event space which they are donating to the Mazamas for our gathering. We are so excited to celebrate our volunteers, from those who tend to our grounds at the MMC to those who teach our climbers, hikers, skiers, and canyoneers to recreate responsibly outdoors. There will be awards and a raffle with prizes too. Please be sure to register in advance, space is limited. I look forward to seeing you there for a fantastic evening celebrating our volunteers!

HELENS ■ May 15–October 31: 110 climbers per day, $15 per person with $6 transaction fee, purchased in advance online at recreation.gov

■ Timed Use Permits are required through September 5, 2022. Depending on your travel plans you may need to reserve one or both permits. More information and permits are available at recreation.gov.

APPRICATIONVOLUNTEEREVENT

■ Permits required after: June 15 ■ Overnight permits available: April 5 ■ Day-use permits available: June 5

UPCOMING COURSES, ACTIVITIES, & EVENTS

UPCOMING PERMIT MOUNTDATESST.

■ The Waterfall Corridor between Bridal Veil (Exit 28) and Ainsworth (Exit 35) The permits will be required from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. A Timed Use Permit reservation does not guarantee parking. Permits will be available on a per vehicle basis and visitors will be limited to two permits per day.

■ Between May 15 and October 31, a permit is required for overnight use in the Enchantments. Permits allow the permit holder and their group to camp overnight in one of the five zones: □ Core Enchantment Zone □ Snow Lake Zone □ Colchuck Lake Zone □ Stuart Lake Zone □ Eightmile/Caroline Zone

STREET RAMBLES

6

MAZAMASDATE:THURSDAY

TIME: 5:30–7:30 P.M. It has been a while since we have gathered solely to socialize. And what better way to restart this practice than by honoring the many volunteers who make the Mazamas possible. Join us in the graciously donated space provided by Markowitz Herbold in downtown Portland at 1455 SW Broadway. There will be beer, wine, nonalcoholic drinks, and light hors d’oeuvres. We are so excited to celebrate our volunteers, from those who tend to our grounds at the MMC to those who teach our climbers, hikers, skiers, and canyoneers to recreate responsibly outdoors. There will be awards and a raffle with prizes. Please be sure and register for this event so we can gauge how much food we’ll need, and make plans to carpool. Maybe meet at the MMC and head downtown, where there are several nearby parking garages including one in the Markowitz Herbold building, and offstreet parking. We are looking forward to a fantastic evening to celebrate our volunteers!

MULTNOMAH FALLS AND WATERFALL CORRIDOR TIMED USE PERMITS

CENTRAL CASCADES

GYM TO CRAG SKILL BUILDER Dates: September 21–25, 2022

SEPTEMBER 15

ENCHANTMENTS

Going on a Street Ramble is one of the best ways to get an introduction to the Mazama hiking program. Meet other hikers and plan a weekend trip, maintain your fitness after work, and see some hidden parts of Portland you might never get to see otherwise. Interested in joining us? All you need to do is show up, check in, pay, and be ready to go at 6 p.m. We'll see you there! We operate Tuesday and Thursday night Street Rambles year-round from REI in the Pearl District (NW Portland). More info at mazamas.org/rambles.

This skill builder will touch on the following skills/topics ■ Top rope belay including necessary knots ■ Demonstrating/discussing sport climbing anchors ■ Cleaning single pitch sport routes ■ Convert to lower ■ Crag etiquette ■ Assessing and choosing routes Register attinyurl.com/gymcrag22 2022

The Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area now requires Timed Use Permits to access two separate areas: ■ Multnomah Falls (I-84/Exit 31)

Dana Delaski, Mount St. Helens Robert Kramer, Mount St. Helens Omar Najar, Mount St. Helens Rebekah Phillips, Mount St. LaureHelensSainton, Mount St. Helens Michael Smith, Mount St. Helens Raelyn Thompson, Mount St. GaryHelensWilliams, Mount St. Helens Jennifer Yi, Mount St. Helens Rachel Faulkner, South Sister Bryan Hagen, South Sister Kate Strahl, South Sister Lauren Thomas, South Sister

JUNE Report David Miller, CambellJustinSierraLoyalAshleyKianRachelSydneyMidoriSimonLukeShreya(Switzerland)MonchLey,Mt.AdamsLinge,Mt.AdamsWagner,Mt.AdamsWatanabe,Mt.AdamsBowman,Mt.HoodHeiken,Mt.HoodHill,Mt.HoodTeren,Mt.HoodBassett,Mt.RainierFarris,Mt.RainierAndrews,Mt.RuthBoucher,MountSt.Helens

DECEASED: MEMBERSHIP1

Membership

ON JULY 31: 2,762 (2022); 2,775 (2021) NEW MEMBERS: 42

Top: New member Nolan Milani on the summit of Mt. Whitney, June 19, 2022.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 7 MAZAMA MEMBERSHIP NEW MEMBERS: 26

Bottom: New member Andrew Archambault on the summit of Mt. Adams, July 24, 2022.

Middle left: New members Matt & Ben Stevenson and friend on the summit of Mount St. Helens, May 5, 2021.

JULY Membership Report

ON JUNE 30: 2,477 (2022); 2,768 (2021)

Jack Amoss, Mt. Hood Danielle Anderson, Mt. Adams Andrew Archambault, Mt. Adams Tyler Bridge, Mt. Adams Clint Campbell, Mount St. Helens Wallace Casper, Mt. Adams Neil Connolly, Mount St. Helens Brian Corral, Unicorn Peak Eric Engstrom, South Sister Joseph Falcone, Mt. Baker Benjamin Fitch, Mt. Hood Jean-Marie Dominique Gayet, South Sister Christy Gilmore, Mt. Hood Heidi Griffith, Mt. Ruth Elliot Hathaway, Mt. Adams Courtney Hayes-Lattin, Mt. Hood Brian Hodakievic, Mt. Baker Thea Hosford, Mt. Hood Jason Hsu, Glacier Peak Eleonore Jones, Mount St. Helens Mark Jones, Mount St. Helens Caroline Klug, North Sister Jacob Lippincott, South Sister Amanda Lovelady, South Sister Stephanie Mackenzie, Middle NolanSisterMilani, Mt. Whitney Veronica Mo, Mount St. Helens Lexi Neame, Mt. Baker Andy Nyce, Mt. Rainier Patrick Nygren, Mt. Rainier Megan Redmond, Mount St. MilesHelensRooklyn, Mt. Hood Pam Roy, South Sister Mark Soutter, Mount St. Helens Carrie Spates, Mount St. Helens Ben Stevenson, Broken Top Matt Stevenson, Mount St. Helens Jenny Stout, Mt. Hood Julia Tembunkiart, Mt. Hood Karen Trilevsky, Mt. Whitney Jesse Wagoner, Mount St. Helens CJ Werfelman, South Sister

REINSTATEMENTS: 2

REINSTATEMENTS: 3 DECEASED: MEMBERSHIP2

Middle right: New member Sydney Bowman on the summit of Mt. Hood, June 15, 2022.

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS:

8 MAZAMAS

■ Pub Night was a success and those will continue monthly. Secured enough leaders for the Labor Day trip. Continued to work more closely with BCEP and its affinity groups while also reaching out to the DEI for additional ways to engage diverse communities and make the outdoors welcoming to all.

WHAT’S AROUNDHAPPENINGTHE MAZAMAS?NORDIC:

ICS COMMITTEE: ■ Applications for the 2022-23 class have been accepted.

■ Still on break between the Nordic seasons, but plans to start recruiting and confirming instructors in August and September.

FIRST AID: ■ Goodbye to members Nicole Behnke and Alicia Antoinette, but welcome to new member Kate Strahl.

■ Working on the 202223 schedule of First Aid courses. ■ REI made a big donation of CPR instruction adult and child mannequins and AED trainers. ■ One qualified CPR instructor is joining the instructor team. ■ Three new instructor candidates completed a Base Medical skills workshop. ■ Working on an instructor alignment workshop to standardize knowledge and practices. ■ Working with the Army Corps of Engineers who are interested in the WFA course. ■ Working reimbursementson for Mazama leaders who complete training outside the organization. ■ Reached out to Publications to increase awareness of WFA.

Photos: 1. James Jula (Leader), Sergei Kunsevich, and Brad Wood on Mt Shasta, June 19, 2022. 2 & 3. Aimee Filimoehala, Damon Greenshields, Darren Ferris, and Angelique Brown on Mt. Rainier, July 23, 2022. 4. Brendan Scanlan on Vesper Peak August 6, 2022. 5, 6, & 9. Courtney Rust (Leader); Teresa Dalsager (Asst. Leader); Drew Dykstra, Emily Carpenter, Kayla Miller, and Erin Courtney on Glacier Peak, August 6, 2022. Photos by Teresa Dalsager. 7. Climbers on Mt. Shucksan, photo by Duncan Hart. 8. Jean Hillebrand admires Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys route from camp near Lake Ann. Photo by Jennifer Travers. 10. Brian Arthur, Ryan Reed (Asst. Leader), Oliver Borg and Guy Wettstein (Leader) enjoy the views enroute to Pinnacle Peak. Photo by Jennifer Travers.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 9 BCEP SUBCOMMITTEE: ■ Preston Corless selected as chair of the subcommittee.BCEP ■ Sub-committees are starting up, among them Admissions which is working on documenting the admissions process. ■ Has reserved Maryhill camping spots for Horsehief weekends, set up its Slack communication channel, worked on its budget, and is working on BCEP qualifications.leadership

TRAIL TRIPS COMMITTEE:

■

Successfully concluded the annual trail tending and maintenance of the Mazama Trail. Will offer RoundThe-Mountain on Labor Day weekend. Working on reimbursement of hike leaders for expenses for first aid courses. CLASSICS: ■ Worked with the new lodge manager to try to schedule a Classic lunch on Sept. 2nd. Needs more level 1-2 hike leaders, committee members, and a secretary.

CISM: ■ Made two debriefings in June.

RISK MANAGEMENT:

■ Still working on completing the risk management matrix.

10 MAZAMAS new license plate donor Show your support for Oregon’s only National Park by purchasing the newly updated official Park Plates directly from the Oregon DMV. Your funds support Park LearningLakeincludingProgramstheCraterScienceandCenter.Information@CraterLakeTrust.orgsupportyourparkCraterLakenational park NEW! YOURHERE!AD Contact the us to learn more about advertising in the Mazama Bulletin! mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org

Bill Keil was an Oregonian through and through. Born at Emanuel Hospital in 1926, he grew up during the Great Depression in Portland’s Multnomah Village neighborhood and graduated from Lincoln High School, the oldest high school in Portland. After military time in the South Pacific, he returned to this area and went off to Oregon State College (now OSU). There he majored in the fields that would define his life—forest management and journalism.Between the military and college, Bill climbed Mt. Hood for the first time in 1946. Once in college, he became involved in Oregon State College’s climbing program, which included a now infamous attempt on Three Fingered Jack with 50 other climbers. There were no injuries, but a number of co-eds missed their dormitory curfews. Bill joined the Mazamas in 1947 and became involved with some of his fellow Mazamas, who also were members of the Wy’East Climbers group.

During college, Bill worked in and around Government Camp in various capacities, including at Timberline Lodge, then just over a decade old. After graduation in June of 1950, he typed up a job proposal to the management of Timberline suggesting that he be their publicist. He then worked there writing news releases, fielded inquiries, and sent out promotion letters to businesses.

Dick joined the Mazamas in 1963 and by 1968 had garnered the Guardian Peaks Award. He was a man of many talents that included skiing, watercolor painting, opera, and traveling.

Bill lived a long life filled with the activities he loved, which he passed on to his children and grandchildren. In his honor, please consider donating to the Cloud Cap Restoration Project, Mt. Hood Ski Patrol, or a mountain search and rescue organization.

Soon after, Bill became editor of Ski West, did a two-month stint as a fireman in northwest Portland, and eventually became a park forester managing Forest Park, which itself had only been established in 1948. From 1952 to 1956, he was instrumental in developing a fire protection plan for the park and helped create all the fire lanes that run throughout the park. He had a hand in building the first couple of miles of the Wildwood Trail, as well. Bill also coordinated numerous tree plantings in areas devastated by the 1951 Bonny Slope burn. One of the original members of the Forest Park Committee of Fifty, he remained an integral member of the Board of Directors for decades. In 1973, he published a trail guide to Forest Park. Today there is a trail in the park named after him to honor his efforts.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 11 SAYING GOODBYEHAROLD

JUNE 18, 1928 – JUNE 17, 2022

“BILL” KEIL APRIL 11, 1926–JUNE 16, 2022

RICHARD F. PORTER

RICHARD "DICK" SPEER

Dick met Wanda when she was 19. They married in 1953 and had three children: Jan, Jim, and Joan. Dick had an immense love for the outdoors and staying active, whether hiking, backpacking, cross-country skiing, or building snow caves. He joined the Mazamas in 1956 and was proud to have received the 16 Peak Award in 1981. He climbed many mountains and led many climbs, and taught cross-country skiing for the Mazamas. He was also one of the first parties to cross-country ski around Crater Lake. His family shared time together at Mt. Hood and in Central Oregon, enjoying the outdoors. They spent a great deal of family time at their mountain cabin on Forest Service land in Rhododendron, which Dick proudly built completely with hand tools when he was in hisDick20s.and Wanda traveled many places, always enjoyed being active, and had a great life. They were blessed with six grandchildren and one great-grandchild. Wanda preceded Dick in death in December, and after a brief illness, Dick peacefully joined her in June. They were married for 68 years.

APRIL 13, 1929–AUGUST 2, 2022

Over the course of his life, Bill wove his two interests into very visible effects. He wrote for the Timberman, was editor of World Wood, was in public relations for the Bureau of Land Management, wrote and edited for Plywood and Panel, then Wood Based Panels in his retirement. All the while, Bill wrote freelance articles and TV and radio segments focused on skiing and hiking in The Oregonian, The Oregon Journal, and all the major local TV stations.

He is survived by his wife, Quinland, who he met while riding out the 1962 Columbus Day storm. She continues to be a Mazama member.Inlieu of flowers, please make a contribution in Dick's name to the Mazamas or to William Temple House.

Dick was born in Portland, Oregon, in 1928. He served two years in the Navy after WWII as an airplane radio operator, then used his GI Bill to allow him to afford college at Oregon State University, where he received a degree in civil engineering. He was the Assistant City Traffic Engineer for the City of Portland for over 30 years. At the end of his career, Dick worked for TriMet and served in the field as one of the engineers working on the Max light rail system as it was being installed.

Richard Franklin Porter, 93, also known as "Dick" or "R.F.," passed away peacefully in his home in Portland. After graduating from Harvard and doing his military service in Germany, Dick earned a Doctor of Jurisprudence from Stanford Law School. He then returned to Portland and practiced law with the firm of Gilley, Busey & Porter for over 20 years.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS Contact the Classics Chair, Flora Huber, at 503658-5710, flobell17@comcast.net, or classics@mazamas.org.

CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING

SUPPORT THE CLASSICS

Classics needs a volunteer to put more content in our column on a quarterly basis. We want to document past Classics events and make sure that our postings to the web are current and complete. More generally, there is always work to be done on the committee. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. on Zoom. Email classics@mazamas.org and tell us how you can help.

MAZAMA CLASSICS

For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace. We lead a wide variety of year-round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun. ■ Classics are back in action and trying to add more hikes, but need hike leaders to lead easy hikes for the Classics.

Keep an eye on the Mazama calendar for our next meeting.

12 MAZAMAS

Since the founding of the Mazamas, scientific research has played a central and important role in the mission of the organization. The original charter included goals on exploring and collecting data on mountain environments and sharing this scientific knowledge to help preserve forests and mountains. The Mazama Research Committee directly supports the core of our mission by providing funding opportunities to researchers to advance scientific understanding of alpine environments in the Pacific Northwest. This knowledge is vital for protecting our mountains and promoting safe and sustainable alpine recreation. Each year the research committee issues a request for proposals in the fall to a variety of universities and research organizations in the U.S. and Canada. The committee is then responsible for reviewing and selecting awards for the following grants: Graduate/Undergraduate Student Research Grants (~$2000), Standard Research Grants (~$3500), Youth Grants (typically <$1000). Research pertaining to alpine environments including geologic features, biotic communities, and human interaction/ influence and mountain or climbing safety are all relevant. Review and selection is carried out in the spring, with awards issued to the researchers before the summer field season. In 2022 the committee received nine proposals. After careful review and scoring, the committee selected eight out of those nine for funding: 7 student grants ($2000 each) and 1 standard grant ($3500) for a total of $17,500 in funding. The proposed research covers a variety of fascinating and timely topics including: ■ the magma chamber system below the Three Sisters; ■ the relationship between the Clarks Nutcracker and Whitebark Pine restoration; ■ the impact of mega fires on ancient forests of southern Oregon; ■ the role of subduction and uplift in the paleo-climate of Oregon and Washington; ■ the ecology of mountain ponds created after the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens; ■ the effect of rain-on-snow events on mountain communities in the Cascades; ■ the connection between ice-age refugia in Washington and British Columbia; ■ and constraints on the subduction of the Juan de Fuca plate states.theWashington,fromvarietyareWashington.stratametamorphicusinginnorthwestThe2022awardeesassociatedwithaofinstitutionsOregon,andRockyMountain

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 13

mazamas.org/researchgrants MAZAMA RESEARCH GRANTS AWARDED

14 MAZAMAS

SOLUTION Somewhat to the surprise of the “panel” of advisors, the general membership had no problems with the proposed changes and passed the new bylaws with a 90 percent majority. The bylaws changes sped up the AMC board’s ability to make decisions, established a clear chain of command and enabled an outside board recruitment process (and of greatest importance, inclusion of the leaders of the “advisory panel”) where they could focus on needed skills, such as marketing, fundraising, finance, and conservation.

APPALACHIAN MOUNTAIN CLUB CASE STUDY

Falender put in place short- and longterm budget goals for the entire club, with specific deliverables due within designated timeframes. He sought to get everyone involved in budgeting on the same page, using the same metrics, forecasts, and processes. He also enlisted the help of outside professionals where he deemed appropriate.Next,Falender turned to growing the AMCs membership base by creating a more welcoming environment and engaging in more proactive marketing, such as financial incentives like discounts on hut stays and mission-oriented attractions like conservation education and advocacy. Then he turned to fundraising, which had been stagnant. The AMC established the Presidents Society (named after the Presidential Range in the White Mountains), which encouraged and acknowledged annual gifts in excess of $1,000. From 1989 to 1995, contributions increased by more than 300 percent over the entire membership.

The AMC membership also was fairly cliquish and not very inclusive. People met their best friends and even partners through the AMC, and families would return to the same facilities for vacation year after year, especially those that were “volunteer managed” with no connection to the executive director. To join the AMC, one had to be “sponsored” by a member. Despite this practice being discontinued in the 1970s, some members in the late 80s and 90s could still trace their AMC lineage backThegenerations.clubwasvery exclusionary from its founding up until Falender’s tenure, especially by today’s standards. Even those who stayed at AMC facilities or participated in AMC events often were unaware the organization was membership-based and joining was a possibility.Giventhe lack of “business” knowledge among the current volunteer leaders, the fiscal turmoil and country club-like practices, a panel of forward-thinking and highly-skilled lawyers, bankers, and businessmen was organized by the executive director (who understood the need for change but did not see himself as having the skills to implement those changes).Thispanel proposed a slate of bylaws changes aimed at empowering and expanding the board of directors as well as enabling the executive director to directly manage the staff and the operations of the organization. At the same time, the executive director announced his resignation. In response, the AMC also instituted a search for an executive director, which led them to Falender, whose initial focus was fiscal stability and improved management.

Many of you are familiar with the AMC, founded by Boston-based academics in 1876. Its initial mission was to promote mountaineering and to protect the mountains, forests, waters, and trails stretching from Maine to Washington, D.C. Over time, the group’s interests expanded to include activities like skiing, bicycling, kayaking, hiking, and sailing.

SITUATION For much of its existence, the AMC was run largely by volunteer members. In fact, paid staff members reported to volunteer committees as well as the executive director. Service to the club was considered a core value. For decades, members identified with their specific club interests, i.e. climbing, hiking, and most volunteering aligned with member passions. In addition to leading activities, some volunteers served as executive board members and helmed committees. But being passionate about something isn’t necessarily a qualification for good governance, and very few AMC members possessed management, budgetary, and operational experience at a level necessary to manage multiple facilities as well as other extensive activities. Historically there had always been a disconnect between the AMC’s different chapters and committees, with each creating their budgets independently, without knowledge of, or consideration for, the entire operation. As a partial result, when Falender took the helm, the organization was more than $1.5 million in debt.

OUTCOME

We are not the first organization to struggle with growth and change. To help illustrate this, and possibly serve as inspiration, or even a roadmap for the Mazamas, we have spoken with Andy Falender, the person hired as executive director in 1989 to spearhead the bylaws and governance transformation of our sister organization, The Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC). Information for this case study also came from the club’s website and a lengthier Harvard Business School Case Study written in 1997, which for those interested, can be purchased online.

by Gina Binole, Mazama Office & Communications Coordinator

continued on bottom of the next page

The years preceding Falender’s tenure were tumultuous, and they admittedly remained tough during it. But his leadership, emphasizing the skills of current staff and newly elected board members and recruiting and hiring others, allowed the organization to thrive, wiping

Case Study, continued from previous page.

TIME TO RENEW MEMBERSHIPYOUR out $1.5 million in debt and doubling membership in the short term. In the longer term, from his hiring to his retirement 23 years later, membership increased from about 30,000 to 100,000, endowment increased from $2 million to $50 million. Education increased to 50,000 kids a year, activities for members to 8,000, and land ownership to 50,000 acres. When asked recently what he believes made the most difference in positive changes during his tenure, Falender said: “It was an opportunity just waiting to happen. Then thanks to some initial and ongoing very—make that extremely—talented and dedicated board members, supporters and staff, we were able to take full advantage of that opportunity.”

Thank you for your support this year as a Mazama member. You are a valuable member of our 128-year legacy, and today we invite you to renew your membership for 2023.

Support through membership is what enables us to offer the essential experiences that make us Mazamas. Our members are our volunteers, leaders, adventurers, advocates, and mentors. Membership funds provide training for our volunteer leaders, advocacy for the protection of our beloved outdoor spaces, and financial resources for climbing and education scholarships. Truly, every Mazama activity is made possible by the incredible members and donors who make our community thrive. Renew your membership at www.mazamas.org/renew before September 30 and be entered into a drawing to win one of ten Mazama Yeti logo mugs. Renew now to strengthen your Mazama community and keep it flourishing in 2023.

by Kyle Tarry Cassin Ridge, a soaring buttress of rock, ice, and snow that splits Denali’s massive south face, is what alpine climbing dreams are made of. It is an elegant line that begins at the head of the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and rises directly to the mountain’s summit–8,000 vertical feet of high-quality technical climbing. With its inclusion in the venerated 50 Classic Climbs of North America, the Cassin has become a renowned North American test piece for amateur climbers.

16 MAZAMAS

CASSIN RIDGE

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 17 continued on next page

Panorama: View from Kahiltna Glacier Inset, clockwise from the top: Nick Sweeney following the final technical pitch in the Second Rock Band; Nick Sweeney skiing back to the airstrip on the lower Kahiltna Glacier; Bivy on the hanging glacier at 12,000 feet.

All photo by Kyle Tarry

18 MAZAMAS

Above: View from Kahiltna Glacier

I remember reading about this route early in my mountaineering career and marveling at its sheer size; its combination of high altitude, cold, and technical climbing; and the commitment required to embark on a climb of this scale that has limited retreat options. It seemed far-fetched at the time, and I relegated it to that list of “things I’ll never do.” But as the years went by, I started to chip away at the barriers to such a route, and recently it had come into focus as something that might be possible with the right partner and circumstances. In late 2021, my friend Noah Kimmes of Anchorage reached out to me and mentioned that he was putting together a Denali trip with the main goal being to climb the Cassin. I jumped at the opportunity and quickly convinced my long-time climbing partner Nick Sweeney of Spokane to share a rope with me. We teamed up with Noah, Matt Zavortink (Portland), and Erik Richardson (Seattle) for the expedition. Our plan was to travel together low on the mountain and then climb the Cassin as two independent but coordinated teams. Due to the Cassin’s location and high altitude, we decided to begin our trip on Denali’s West Buttress (the standard route to the mountain’s summit). On May 23 of this year, we flew from Talkeetna to the lower Kahiltna Glacier. There we began the slow process of dragging one month’s worth of supplies and provisions up the mountain, allowing our bodies to acclimate. This also put us in close proximity to the Cassin, where we would be able to quickly take advantage of good weather.Over the course of about one week, we inched our way up from our 7,000-foothigh starting point through camps at 7,800 feet and 11,000 feet, to our new home at Denali’s popular 14,000 foot camp. “14k camp” is the standard place for Denali climbers to settle in, acclimate, and wait for the right opportunity to make a summit bid. Its location in a large sunny basin on the western flank of the mountain is a convenient location to come and go from various routes on the peak. We dug out a plush camp (with awe-inspiring views of Mt. Foraker) at the west end of the basin and continued our acclimatization process among hundreds of other climbers. Over the course of another week, we began gradually climbing higher, alternating with days of rest and excessive snacking. We scouted the approach to the Cassin via the West Rib Cutoff at 16,000 feet, went to the high camp at 17,000 feet, and hiked to Denali Pass at 18,200 feet. Several of the team members made it to Denali’s 20,310-foot summit as a day trip, while I stopped a few thousand feet short due to mild symptoms of mild acute mountain sickness. On June 3, after a week of acclimatization, and with the historic good weather forecasted to continue, four of our crew felt ready to try the Cassin. To approach the Cassin Ridge from 14k camp, there are a variety of options. We chose the “Seattle ‘72 Ramp,” colloquially named after the expedition that first used it. The Seattle Ramp is approached from 14k camp by climbing up to 15,700 feet to access the West Rib, and then descending to 12,000 feet at the head of the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. This area of Denali is notorious for complex glacier navigation and exposure to overhead hazard. Conditions this year were quite good and the approach was largely uneventful. We were able to downclimb without protection for most of the way and made one 60-meter rappel near the end to bypass an icefall. The overhead hazard was limited to a large serac at the head of the valley, whose active slide path we jogged Cassin Ridge, continued from previous page.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 19 across. Approximately 6 hours after leaving camp, we were at the base of the Cassin Ridge’s initial section, the Japanese Couloir. We initially tried to climb it that afternoon, but did not make it very far. Demoralized, we realized that this was too big of an undertaking to try to cram into one day. After rappelling to the base using v-threads, we settled in for the night on a small tent platform perched between crevasses below the Theroute.next morning, we began up the route again. Nick and I had decided to climb in daily “blocks”: each day one person would do all of the leading while the other followed, creating a comfortable cadence of climbing and resting and allowing each of us to cater to our strengths. The first day, the Japanese Couloir, a 1,000-foot gully comprised primarily of ice climbing, was Nick’s block. The majority of this section was 60 degrees and hard alpine ice, with some occasional snow climbing and the odd mixed move. At the Japanese Couloir’s crux, around the midpoint of the couloir, we had the option of a short section of WI4 or a 5.6 mixed chimney. We elected the latter route mainly to separate ourselves from Noah and Matt’s team. Two pitches of excellent mixed climbing later, we were back in the couloir. A few pitches after that we topped out on the ridgeline near the historic Cassin Ledge, one of the route’s tiny bivy locations. Our itinerary had us stop briefly at this rare flat spot in order to melt snow for drinking and to eat some snacks. We then moved on with the goal of reaching the “large bivy” at 14,000 feet before the day’s end. During this brief pause, the four of us had a frank discussion about how we were feeling, and made a final decision to proceed to the Cowboy Arete, the point at which retreating off the route becomes much less viable. Above Cassin Ledge we climbed easy mixed terrain, which led to the “5.8 rock crux,” allegedly one of the route’s hardest sections. Noah and I both led through here, finding fun and high-quality granite on this short steep pitch. Beyond the rock crux is the infamous “Cowboy Arete”—a knifeedge snow ridge which can sometimes require hundreds of feet of unprotected auchevaling. Lucky for us, the stable weather and previous parties on the route made the conditions on this section as good as you could ask for—well consolidated snow and a boot pack! An ominous cloud had rolled in and reduced visibility to less than a rope length as I led off into the mist, the only reminder of my partner being a slight tension on the rope that disappeared into the cloud behind me. An hour of careful unprotected climbing along the arete brought us to the bivy at 14,000 feet, 12 hours after our day began. This spot on a hanging glacier clinging to Denali’s south face had a flat spot large enough for two bivy tents, plus room to walk around unroped, which was a welcome break from the steep slopes below. A light snow had begun falling, so we brewed up and ate in our tiny tents before drifting off to sleep. After a full night of sleep, we packed up for what we expected to be the hardest day on the route. Our goal was to climb to another large bivy location around 17,000 feet, beyond the first and second rock An ominous cloud had rolled in and reduced visibility to less than a rope length as I led off into the mist, the only reminder of my partner being a slight tension on the rope that disappeared into the cloud behind me. continued on next page

Above: View from Kahiltna Glacier

havingsatisfiedwegain.feetandsummitalonghourabouthereoftrueGoingourtrailWestwell-trodButtressandbegandescent.tothesummitDenalifromrequiresahalfofwalkingtheridge200moreofelevationBecauseweretired,atclimbedthe

numerous blisters, we were back at the glacier airstrip at 7,000 feet, where we put our name on the waiting list to be flown out the next morning. We were too lazy at this point to put up tents and so spent our last night on Denali sleeping under the dim night sky. The following morning, our 18th day on the mountain, we hopped onto a flight back to Talkeetna. The Cassin Ridge had lived up to its reputation and is likely to be a highlight of each of our climbing careers.

Above: Bivy at the base of the Japanese Couloir above the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.

20 MAZAMAS bands, areas that we expected might hold some of the most challenging climbing on the route. To get to the first rock band, however, we first had to cross the hanging glacier’s bergschrund, which had a short but steep section of ice. This ended up being the only pitch on the route where the leader removed and hauled his pack. In this case, I was uncertain if pulling the overhanging top-out on this pitch would be unreasonable with an overnight pack. After bringing the rest of the team up the ice step, we continued on to the first rock band where we found pitch after pitch of highquality mixed climbing. The climbing was generally moderate, punctuated with short steps of steeper sections with a difficulty perhaps reaching M4. A light snow had fallen overnight and the cloudy weather continued, creating a moody atmosphere and obscuring some of the terrain and protection. Seven pitches of climbing got us through the first rock band and we followed an exposed snow arete high above the valley bottom to the base of the second rock band. After five pitches of climbing in the second rock band, it was approaching midnight. Although we were nearly 1,000 feet short of our intended bivy location, we had been on the move for 15 hours and elected to settle in for the night. Here, the “Triangle Roof” bivy, a small icy ledge barely big enough for one tent, would be our only option for a flat spot to stay. Nick and I crammed into our tent, dangling over the left end of the ledge, while Matt and Noah chose not to pitch a tent at all for the cold but windless night. We all slept tied into our ropes and anchored to the wall for fear that a midnight slip would send us tumbling to Kahiltna Glacier far below. Despite this, we slept soundly, likely due to the fatigue from the day’s climbing. We awoke early the following morning in order to climb the remaining 4,000 feet to Denali’s summit and with the hope that we could descend back to the comfort of our supplies at 14k camp. After 3 nights out, we were getting low on food; spending another night out above 17,000 feet was unappealing. Directly from the bivy ledge were two more pitches of mixed climbing, the latter of which we felt was one of the most challenging of the route. Noah followed a steep gully up an overhanging boulder problem to the left and I went right up a thin technical face, rejoining Noah on the plateau above. Above these pitches, the second rock band relented, and we settled in for a long climb up steep snow gullies and ridges to Denali’s summit. Eight hours later, around 7 p.m., and after many breaks, we topped out on Denali’s summit ridge at 20,100 feet. There we merged onto the

Cassin Ridge, continued from previous page.

Cassin Ridge to the end of the technical difficulties, and ready to dig into our base-camp food cache, we elected to forego the proper summit. Several hours of descending (and one break to melt snow for water) brought us back to 14k camp around 10 p.m. (14 hours after our day began). We feasted on our food cache and then drifted off to sleep, exhausted but satisfied. The following day, we awoke late and spent our time lounging around, laughing, eating, hydrating, enjoying the security of a well-stocked and comfortable camp, and content that we returned safe from such a huge adventure. We packed up as much as we could that afternoon. The following morning, we headed down the mountain. After about 9 hours of wrangling heavy sleds, slow-motion ski crashes, and

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 21 SOMETHING OLD SOMETHING BORROWED SOMETHING YOU! SOMETHING NEW •Online: MAZAMAS.ORG/RENEW •By phone: 503-227-2345 •Renew by August 31 for a chance to win gear and other prizes! RENEW YOUR MEMBERSHIP TODAY At our core, Mazamas will always be driven by our mission to inspire everyone to love and protect the mountains. Our climbs, hikes, stewardship projects, and education programs are at the heart of that mission. We are reinvigorating ourselves with new opportunities for engagement with you! Look out for more virtual offerings, new volunteer opportunities, and some new staff, volunteer, and member faces around the MMC and on the trails. Over the past year we’ve had to be creative with how to offer programs and serve our community. We’ve borrowed lessons, skills, and knowledge to make us stronger from our volunteers, community leaders, and fellow outdoor organizations. Mazama members are what keep us strong 128 years after our founding. You are volunteers, leaders, adventurers, advocates, and mentors. We look forward to seeing your faces, both familiar and new, on the trails in 2023. What Will 2023 Bring With Your Mazama Membership?

This is your voter pamphlet for the 2022 Mazama election. This year you will be voting for Executive Council and Nominating Committee members. On the following pages you will find details on the Executive Council candidates.

BOARD TERM LIMITS

EXECUTIVE COUNCIL CANDIDATES

Mazama Annual Meeting and Election: OCTOBER 3, 2022

A Special Election will be held later in the fall on the proposed bylaws changes. Those changes will not be a part of the annual election of board candidates.

BARBARA WEISS

HOW DO

TOM MILLER ■ Aug. 1: Voter Guide Published online. ■ Aug. 15: Opt-Out Period for Online Voting Ends Maz2022eVoteOptOut).(tinyurl.com/

HANSONMARTY JAWORSKICHRIS TENSCHERCLAIRE

2022 MAZAMA VOTER GUIDE

ELECTION TIMELINE

Vote by Mail: All Mazama members who Opt-Out of E-voting, or who do not have an email address on file with the Mazamas will receive a paper ballot by standard USPS mail. This ballot will arrive around Sept. 7, and will include a voter pamphlet, ballot, and return envelope. Make your election choices, put your ballot in the return envelope, place a stamp on the envelope, and drop it in the mail. Paper ballots must be received by Oct. 3 by 3 p.m. to be counted. Ballots received after that time CANNOT be accepted. We recommend mailing your ballot EARLY or dropping it off at the MMC through the mail slot. YOU VOTE?

■ Oct. 3 at 3 p.m.: Voting closes (paper ballots must be received by 3 p.m. to be counted). ■ Oct. 3 at appx. 8 p.m.: Election results announced.

■ Sept. 3: Paper Ballots Mailed & Online Voting Begins.

NOMINATING COMMITTEE CANDIDATES

KIRSTEN JACOBSON CHRIS BROX TERRY DONAHE Terms expiring Oct. 1, 2022 ■ Jesse PresidentApplegate, ■ ViceFilimoehala,AimeePresident ■ Amanda RyanFear Terms expiring Oct. 1, 2023 ■ Bob Breivogel ■ Vacant ■ Vacant Terms expiring Oct. 1, 2024 ■ Charles Barker ■ Greg SecretaryScott, ■ David TreasurerUrbaniak,

22 MAZAMAS

eVoting: All CURRENT Mazama members who have an email address on file with the Mazamas AND who did not Opt-Out of E-voting for the Mazama Annual Election, will receive an email to vote in the election on Sept. 3 (appx). This email will include a link to the voting form and with two codes that you will need to vote—an ID number and a password. Click on the vote link, then type OR copy and paste the ID number and your password into the appropriate boxes. Once you vote, you will receive a confirmation email. Unlike previous years, you may continue to receive voting reminders even if you have already voted. Rest assured that if you voted and have your confirmation email, your vote will be counted.

however no

▷ Stanford

the

the

Other

EXECUTIVE COUNCIL CANDIDATE PROFILES

2008 ▷ ASI

▷

▷ Mazama

WORK/PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE

▷ Avy

▷

▷ Crevasse

PERSONAL STATEMENT This organization has meant a lot to Chris since he first took BCEP in 2016. Chris is passionate about the outdoors and spends a lot of free time exploring new areas in the PNW. Chris would feel honored to serve in a leadership position with the Mazamas to help ensure the long-term viability of the organization that means so much to current members and has the opportunity to touch so many more community members. Chris believes his skill set and professional experience would be of value to the organization as it seeks to develop a healthy financial state now and into the future. 2015-2016, 2018-2020 Backcountry Ski Touring, 2017-2022 Assistant Instructor, 2007, Assistant, 2009, 2010 Rescue Skill Builder Lead Instructor, 2011, 2012 I Instructor, 2011 Backcountry Ski Program, 2017-2022

•

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 23 CHRIS BROX MAZAMA SINCE (JOIN YEAR): 2016 COMMITTEE,VOLUNTEER,MAZAMA OR RELATED ACTIVITIES • Basic Climbing Education Program, 2016 • Intermediate Climbing School • BCEP Team volunteer, 2017 • Mazama First Aid volunteer, 2019 • Used Equipment volunteer, 2020 • Participated in climbs with the Mazamas since joining in 2016 BOARD AND/OR COMMITTEE EXPERIENCE WITH OTHER ORGANIZATIONS • Human Solutions Inc., (Non-profit focused on affordable housing access for▷all).Board of Directors, 2016–2022 ▷ Finance Committee, 2014–2022 • Sisters of the Community (Non-profit that connected organizations and individuals to donate and receive goods)▷Board Treasurer & Bookkeeper, 2011–2016

TERRY DONAHE MAZAMA SINCE (JOIN YEAR): 2004 ORCOMMITTEE,VOLUNTEER,MAZAMARELATED ACTIVITIES • Mazama Education ▷ Mazamas BCEP, 2005 ▷ Mountaineering First Aid, 2006 ▷ Mazamas ICS, 2005-2006 ▷ Mazamas ICS, 2006-2007 ▷ Mazamas ASI, 2008 ▷ Mazamas Mountaineering,Ski 2014 • Mazama Volunteer Activity ▷ Mazama Financial Affairs Committee, 2004-2007 ▷ Mazama Committee,Expedition2007-2011 ▷ Mazama Executive Council, 20112014 ▷ Mazamas Foundation,

▷ BCEP

RELEVANT LIFE & LEADERSHIP EXPERIENCE

▷

•

▷

• CPA with 13 years of experience in accounting, finance, operations, internal audit, compliance, and decision support—all with non-profit organizations in the Portland metro area. Chris gives back to the community by volunteering with organizations such as the Mazamas, Human Solutions, Inc, El Programa Hispano, and Sisters of the Community.

• Albertina

Chris is a servant leader who enjoys helping develop individuals and leaving a positive impact on organizations. Chris has supported the successful rollout of strategic plans that ensured the mission stayed front and center while ensuring the long-term financial sustainability of the organization.

on next page Please note: Executive

Candidate

BOARD AND/OR COMMITTEE EXPERIENCE WITH OTHER ORGANIZATIONS Stanford University, 1987-present Foundation Stanford Alumni Association chapters (New York/New Jersey, Orange County, CA, Oregon/SW Washington) Stanford OVAL (Outreach Volunteer Alumni Link) Oregon State Bar Disciplinary Board, 2014-2016 Kerr Investment, Gift Acceptance and Planned Giving Committee, 2014continued Council information has been standardized to fit a certain format, editing has been done. than formatting, information is provided exactly as submitted by candidates/members.

RELEVANT LIFE & LEADERSHIP EXPERIENCE

I have served in leadership roles for many volunteer organizations including: ▷ President for two chapters of the Stanford Alumni Association ▷ President of the Albertina Kerr Foundation ▷ Treasurer for the Mt. Hood Ski Patrol ▷ Treasurer for Trailkeepers of Oregon ▷ President of the Lake Oswego Townhome HOA Board ▷ Treasurer for the Mazamas ▷ Albertina Kerr Foundation Board Chair

• Trailkeepers of Oregon ▷ Executive Council, 2019-2021 • Lake Oswego Townhome Homeowners Association (HOA) ▷ Board, 2019-2021 • CFP Board, 2015-2022 ▷ Council on Education ▷ Disciplinary and Ethics Commission

I am running for Board of Directors to help reinvigorate this incredible organization.

• National Ski Patrol/Mt. Hood Ski Patrol (MHSP), 2004- present • MHSP Executive Council (past member)▷Senior Hill Patroller

• I am a partner in Springwater Wealth Management. We offer comprehensive financial planning and investment management services. We have offices in Beaverton, Oregon and Santa Cruz, California. I have been in the financial services industry my entire career. I have an undergraduate degree in economics (Stanford University), two masters (The American College) and numerous professional credentials.

BOARD AND/OR COMMITTEE EXPERIENCE WITH OTHER ORGANIZATIONS

MAZAMA SINCE (JOIN YEAR): 1994 COMMITTEE,VOLUNTEER,MAZAMA OR RELATED ACTIVITIES

In my work life, I have managed groups of six to twenty people, mostly engineers. The work I managed included process control engineers, chemical lab technicians, draftsmen, documentation specialists, manufacturing engineers, quality engineers, and design engineers. I managed department budget planning, control, and implementation. I performed 2017 ▷ Foundation Board, 2017-2022

I’ve worked for General Electric, Tektronix, Planar Systems, and FEI. Some of my job titles were Quality Control Engineer, Production Foreman, Quality Control Department Manager, Manufacturing Engineer Manager, Design Engineering Manager, and Division Engineering Manager. Technologies that I worked with were high-intensity discharge lighting, cathode ray tubes, flat panel displays (both EL and LCD), and electron beam devices. I’ve had training and experience in finance and budgeting, product design and manufacture, and customer liaison. I have a degree in Ceramic Engineering from the University of Washington.

I’ve been on many committees in my 28 years of membership but I’ve lost track of dates: Trail Trips, Web, Strategic Planning, Finance, Publications, Nomination, Bylaws, Classics, Lodge, Trail Tending, and MMC property search. I’ve been chair of Trail Trips (2), Bylaws (3). Strategic Plan, and Web. I’ve volunteered for the Used Equipment Sale, BCEP training, and ICS training. I assisted on climbs and outings. I led rambles, hikes, and snowshoes for a total of 900 leads. I served on Executive Council and was a liaison to multiple committees. I was EC Treasurer for a year and Vice President for another year. I was the Mazama office accountant using QuickBooks during a transition period. My current committee memberships are Lodge, Finance, and Classics. Until the pandemic, I was at the MMC front desk most every Friday and edited the glaciated peak list.

RELEVANT LIFE & LEADERSHIP EXPERIENCE

I have not served on the Boards of other organizations. My only committee experience has been with the Mazamas.

Over the past several months we have learned that the Mazamas has become imperiled. Membership has shrunk. Long standing volunteers have left. Numerous staff members have departed. Programming has been scaled down. The organization has been running a budget deficit for years and its reserves are significantly depleted. Even our beloved lodge needs significant Thisrestoration.storied organization, which was founded on the flanks of Mt. Hood in 1894, survived two world wars, the Great Depression, and two global pandemics. But will it be here for the next generation?

There are many challenges facing the organization. Climate change is melting glaciers and causing unprecedented fires in the places where we recreate. Social and environmental changes are spurring us to consider our membership criteria and the structure of our organization. Competing organizations offer similar educational and recreational opportunities. The Mazamas has been an important part of my life for almost two decades. It taught me how to climb safely. It brought me some of my closest friendships. It showed me how to lead others in the mountains. I believe in community service. I have been an active volunteer with the Mazamas since I joined in 2004. I make annual donations. The Mazamas is named in my estate plan.

PERSONAL STATEMENT

24 MAZAMAS Donahe, continued from previous page MARTY HANSON

WORK/PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE

The mission of the Mazamas is “To inspire everyone to love and protect the mountains.” To do that, we must love and protect the Mazamas and ensure that is here to carry out that mission.

• Unitus Credit Union ▷ Audit Committee (2020 - Present)

WORK/PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE

PERSONAL STATEMENT I’d like to be part of the Mazamas getting back to a solid financial footing. I want us to regain our stature as the source for mountain training and activities for the community. Let’s get back the 1,000 members we lost during the pandemic and grow our membership to better serve the public. Let’s revisit the glaciated peak membership requirement and find a way to reduce that barrier while keeping the feeling that comes with the achievement. As we’ve grown our membership, we’ve been struggling with how to staff the MMC office with the talent we need to run the Mazamas as an organization. What I don’t see is a plan that addresses the balance between volunteers and the help that volunteers need. I remember a time when the staff was the Executive Director and two or three part-time positions. Most work was done by the support furnished by volunteers. I think that many of us realized that this system burned out volunteers. I believe we need to better define what part the staff is responsible for while still letting committee volunteers “do their thing.”

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 25 CHRIS JAWORSKI

I’d also like to review how our IT system is working for the membership. I think the system frustrates some members. I’m not sure it is user-friendly to some of our classic members who may not be as computer savvy as younger members. A survey or dialog could help answer this. Please vote for me in the election.

• Marylhurst University, Hospitality Management Advisory Committee, Curriculum Development, Advocacy • Ronald McDonald House Charities, Board Member, 2015-2017. Organizational Structure, Fundraise WORK/PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE

RELEVANT LIFE & LEADERSHIP EXPERIENCE

• Mt. Hood Ski Patrol, Member, 20002005. Patrol, Fundraise, Sponsor Partnerships

• Cycle Oregon/Oregon Bicycle Tourism Partnership, Ad Hoc Member, 20052007. Strategic Planning, Marketing • Oregon Restaurant & Lodging Association, Member, 2010-2020. Portland Alliance, Pandemic Response Advisory Group

Throughout my civic and professional experiences, I have built a broad network of partners to form impactful public/ private coalitions that have advanced organizational missions. Specifically, I’ve contributed to the ongoing success of the Mt. Hood Ski Patrol, Outdoor Adventure leadership of Portland area BSA, Tualatin Parks & Recreation, Doernbecher Children’s Hospital, state, national, and international tourism organizations, and even the Mazamas having worked with members, program leaders, and the Executive Director in 2015 to create and lead the inaugural oneClimb event benefitting the Knight Cancer Institute.

I’m certain the Executive Council role requires a strategic mindset, a great set of listening ears, and a willingness and ability to work elbow to elbow with program directors and members so collectively we can all thrive. For me it means staying open to new ideas, keeping a light heart, committing to the cause, living with passion and purpose, and sharing a good dose of Perhapshumor.asimportant as anything, I believe in the mission, respect Mazama values, and simply love the mountains continued on next page yearly performance reviews for the people I managed. I hired and terminated people due to business and personnel conditions.

Marty Hanson

I believe the weight of my contributions stems from a range of experiences and a deep commitment to collaboration, enlisting teams on a clear purpose, empowering others, supporting, inspiring, and celebrating efforts to make meaningful contributions as people and professionals.

EXPERIENCE WITH OTHER ORGANIZATIONS

Hanson, continued from previous page

• Travel Portland, Subcommittee Board, 2010-2020. Strategy, Industry Advocacy, Community Engagement

• Friends of Doernbecher, Board Member 2012-current. Fundraising, Community Engagement, Grant Fund Distribution

MAZAMA SINCE (JOIN YEAR): 2015 COMMITTEE,VOLUNTEER,MAZAMA OR

I have helped grow and lead organizations in hospitality and leisure through insightful business strategy, operations management, marketing strategy, training and development, facilities construction, and sustainability. My leadership responsibilities have positioned me to direct as many as sixty locations and several thousand employees.

RELATED ACTIVITIES

• Mazamas, Member 2015. Strategic Plan Participation and Support to Executive Director BOARD AND/OR COMMITTEE

I’ve also earned a Masters in Tourism Administration, contributing to sustainable community development, programming, and outdoor recreation and tourism planning. My strength is in my range of career and professional pursuits which has provided me the experiences to think more broadly and embrace diverse perspectives.

My current work involves consulting with organizations to help strategize and launch sustainability initiatives (www.fivestakes. com). In a nutshell, I’m a servant leader. It’s what I do, and it would be a privilege to put that experience to work on the Executive Council.

PERSONAL STATEMENT I joined the Mazamas in 2015. While I have only been a member since 2015, I understand the challenges our organization currently faces and the landscape of immense opportunity. I believe the relatively short duration of my membership is an advantage to the Executive Council role. My professional and volunteer roles have provided me with a wealth of experience working across organizations and with communities bringing elements of objectivity to advancing the shared benefits of numerous stakeholders.

I’ve been a Boy Scout Den Leader.

I am a backpacker, hiker, swimmer, and skier. I spend most of my time engaging with the Mazamas through volunteer work but I also participate in Rambles when I get the chance and the occasional hike. I’ve been in the Publications Committee since I joined (maybe you’ve read one of my articles!) and was on the Nominating Committee up until I decided to run for this position. It has always been important to me that I give organizations as much as they give me: a sort of non-profit leave no trace. I’ve served on committees for corporations, non-profits, and city groups. My work requires me to interact with a variety of leaders and get them aligned to one goal, often navigating complex conflicting priorities. I also have experience with financial statements and budgets, running events, and managing staff.

PERSONAL STATEMENT Hello fellow Mazamas, many of our committees are running below capacity, we’ve had significant staff turnover, and the continued pressure of Covid means our programs can’t operate as they once did. Last year’s bylaws vote illustrated we were not aligned in our vision for the future. We are at a critical time in this organization’s history. If we don’t make the right decisions now we will not survive. How do we grow membership? How are we funded? How can we unite people with different perspectives? What is our purpose? I don’t have the answers today but I promise to listen, to speak up, and to bring an operational lens to our answers. I’d like you to vote for me because I believe this organization should survive another 100 years, because I’ve worked behind the scenes on the bulletin and on the elections committee, and because I care about doing the job well. But even if you don’t, please listen to this request: remember there are real people behind all the programs, elections, and publications who work hard with very little thanks. If you can: join them, help with a committee, if you don’t have the time, say thanks, be kind. I truly believe Mazamas have more uniting us than working to pull us apart. and outdoor communities. As outdoor recreation continues to grow exponentially, it is imperative that the organization continues to serve its members, grows in a sustainable way, and influences the outdoor community in accordance with its mission. During this critical time in Mazamas history, I am confident I can help our incredibly fantastic organization regain its strength while clarifying its path toward another 128 wonderful years! Jaworski,

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ACTIVITIESORCOMMITTEE,VOLUNTEER,MAZAMARELATED

EXPERIENCE WITH OTHER ORGANIZATIONS

• Vice President, People’s Co-Op Board, 2020-present

• Sr. Project Manager, Nike: implemented transformational finance initiatives, managed consultants • Operations Manager, Nike: built governance platform and rules by uniting cross functional stakeholders, created processes to ensure data quality • Transition Manager, Nike: planned events in multiple countries and developed training and comms for a program which impacted thousands of end users • Member Relations Manager, INFRA: onboarded and grew membership for a co-op comprised of grocery stores

• Multiple roles, including interim store manager, Berryvale Grocery: managed people, process, and product for a natural foods retailer

• Board Member, Minneapolis Rowing Club, 2016 • Alternative Transportation Committee, City of Mt. Shasta, 2012-2015

RELEVANT LIFE & LEADERSHIP EXPERIENCE

• President and Board Member, Friends of the Mt. Shasta Avalanche Center, 2013-2015 • Secretary, Mountain Wheelers, 20132014 • Volunteer Designer/Editor, various ongoing WORK/PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE

26 MAZAMAS CLAIRE TENSCHER MAZAMA SINCE (JOIN YEAR): 2019

• Nominating Committee Member, 2020-Present • Publications Committee Member, 2019-Present • Backcountry Ski Class Assistant, 2020 BOARD AND/OR COMMITTEE

Flyboys debuted in 2017 as one of the longest sport climbs in wholeinstantlongestcountry—perhapsthethe5.9—andanclassic.It’sonalotofwishlists. continued on next page

Above: Ryan Reed on Flyboys.

Photo by James Pitkin.

An hour later James called back. “Hey, no takers yet. But what if I scrap Forbidden, and we do smaller objectives around Washington Pass? We can stick to routes with good bail options for a few days, in case you get sick.” We’d just have to drive up separately, and be ready to pull the plug.

FAST TIMES IN THE FLYBOYS CONGA LINE

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 27

ThreeSpire.days wore us out, but we figured on one more day of climbing. Over dinner at our dirtbag site, we settled on climbing trad routes near Leavenworth. But as darkness fell James had a brainstorm. “OK, consider this: We have mid-week, we have good weather, and we have two cars for the shuttle—why not Flyboys?” I pretended to think about it for a few seconds. “Hell yeah.” I’d been hearing raves about Flyboys for a few years. Just down the road from Washington Pass, the 18-pitch bolted route snakes 1800 feet up Goat Wall, which looms over the Methow Valley near the tiny town of Mazama. Two locals, Bryan Burdo and Jerry Daniels, mapped out the line and spent two years installing 275 generously spaced bolts. Flyboys debuted in 2017 as one of the longest sport climbs in the country—perhaps the longest 5.9—and an instant classic. It’s on a whole lot of wish lists. We checked out the approach on our rest day; the climber’s register recorded just one or two parties on most weekdays. “We still gotta be first on route,” said James. “We can’t afford to get stuck behind a slowpoke party.” We shuttled my car to the top of the hill for the trip down (rappelling the route by Ryan Reed

The next day we were in the North Cascades, ticking off Washington Pass trad classics—the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell, the North Face of Concord Tower, the justifiably obscure Spontaneity Arete, the brilliant Southwest Rib on South Early Winters

The plan was to leave Saturday for an overdue rematch with Forbidden Peak. But my Thursday Beacon Rock partner came down hard with COVID the following day; we’d spent hours in the car together. “Sorry, Ryan,” said James. “We can’t take the chance you get sick high up on that route.” He went off to scare up another partner, and I made plans to quarantine.

Above: James Pitkin taking a break.

Flyboys,

Photo by Ryan Reed.

from previous page

But he was happy to share theirs with us; I clipped one unused bolt and a center bolt underneath their anchor, and got James started up. We fell into a steady rhythm. James and I swung leads, and each time we found ourselves waiting with one of the lads while they waited for the Carolinians.

James was leading pitch 4 when I saw two more teams below. The first leader linked pitches 1 and 2, presumably with a 70-meter rope, then quickly moved to link 3 and 4. Soon he was two bolts behind me.

“Those guys are slow as southern molasses,” drawled James, mostly just to say something.

“Hey, good morning!” he called. “Mind if I pass?”Ilooked back at him. He was thirtysomething, shirtless and muscular, wearing no backpack. “Yeah, I kind of do,” I said, alarmed. “There are two teams ahead of us, we’re moving fast, but it’s a conga line. You’ll just be stuck behind them.”

28 MAZAMAS is possible but ill-advised), pushed our wakeup time back to 4 a.m., and went to bedWeearly.parked at the pullout at 5:30, put on harnesses and backpacks full of food and water, grabbed 18 draws and a 60-meter rope, and pushed quickly up the trail. Fifteen minutes later, two young men appeared below us and quickly closed the gap. I was gasping for breath, but managed a cheery “Good morning!” as they approached. They could have passed and claimed the route, but instead politely fell in behind us. We reached the dead tree marking the start at 6 a.m., and there was already a team there—a upsosharehadn’tbelay;ladsmove.withpitchIgratefullyourWeusfrustrated,teambethisthanonlyandthemyoungready,theCamping.”“whereJamesinin“They’refromhardenedroad-coupleSouthCarolina.theonesthecamperthepullout,”whispered,itsaysNoWhileCaroliniansgotweeyedthemen,sizingupasstrongdialed.Thethingworsebeingthirdonroutewouldhavingafastbehindus,makingfeelrushed.offeredthemspot,andtheyaccepted.Itwas6:45whenfinallystartedup1,easyslabasingletrickyOneofthewasstillatthethefirstteamwantedtotheanchor,hispartnerwasabovewaiting.

“No, we’ll just pass everyone. It’s how things work, fast teams just pass the slow ones.” Calling us slow wasn’t his best move; I felt my heels digging in. “You want to pass me here, mid-pitch?” “Sure, if you don’t mind.” I’d passed and been passed at belay stations, but a midpitch pass was new to me. Do you clip under or over the first climber’s draws? What happens if the ropes tangle? How do you manage two, or potentially three team anchors clustered at a belay station? I tried to focus on the practical specifics, but mostly I was thinking: we got up two hours before you, we’re climbing well, and we need to wait for you because…you’re faster? “Let me picture this,” I said. “You’re going to clip the same bolts, grab the anchor while we’re on the pitch, and then we wait a half hour for you to pass the other teams?” He shrugged. “Something like that.” At least he was honest. “Let me talk to my partner.” James was less worked up about it, but ducked the issue by launching into his next lead. Shirtless Dude appeared after a while, now with a new tactic: puppy dog eyes. “Hey, sorry if I said something off. I just want everyone to have a good time.” He was going for empathy, but to my ears it just sounded like “Hey, I’m truly sorry you suck at climbing.”“We’lltalk at the top of this,” I said, irritated. I heard James call on belay, so I yelled “Climbing!,” and charged up the pitch, lunging for holds and racking draws as fast as I could pull them. When I reached the anchor James was grinning. “What a great pitch! The movement was so much fun…and the exposure!” I stared dumbly at him, unable to remember anything I’d just done. Was I rock climbing, or reliving some high school continued

The wind had come up, making it hard for us to hear him, but we could tell he was tired. “He’s doing well,” I lied. The older brother stared upward. “He’s just … amazing. He’s really stepping up … he’s just … just doing so great.” He was grasping for words, unable to fully express an untamed thought.

One more take and I too muscled my way up, reaching the anchor, frustrated that I’d let pride spoil the pitch. I brought James up, and he started up the pitch above. The woman on team 5 flew up the crux below and paused a moment at my belay. “Thank you for letting us pass,” she said. “If it’s done right it works pretty well.”“Thanks for explaining things….you guys we’re happy to let through.” She sighed. “Diplomacy helps.” Free of traffic at last, the next pitches were glorious. The lads were climbing at exactly our rate, so our leader would always have a few minutes to talk to their follower while sharing an anchor. We learned they were brothers, one a college sophomore, the other still in high school. The older had learned climbing at the university, the younger in a Mountaineer’s course for teenagers.Another crux came at pitch 10; this time both youths struggled, pulling up on a high clip to get over a bulge. I led up after them and found jugs they’d missed.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 29 drama? “We need to let these guys pass,” I said. “It’s messing up my head.” We were coiling the rope when His Shirtlessness arrived at the anchor. “The next belay is a 40-meter walk from here,” I told him. “You can pass us there.” He agreed, shrugging a bit. It was a good compromise: I got to pretend it was my favor to grant, and he could continue to consider passing us his right. We walked over to the base of Pitch 7, reputedly Flyboy’s hardest pitch. Some stemming, then small side pulls, then hang on a jug and swivel around to a blind foot. The lads were getting up it with remarkable grace. We told them our plan, and they decided to let Shirtless pass them as well. A fifth party of two now arrived, and we all settled in to watch the show. Aware he had an audience, Shirtless started up in haste and immediately got caught under a low roof. “Damn,” he muttered. Having missed an easy stem move, he struggled for half a minute before muscling up a much harder way. “This sucks.” We chewed on our energy bars and enjoyed the Schadenfreude. He then blew through the crux, passed the lads at the belay, and continued up to link the next pitch. We never saw him again. With respect for his belayer standing beside us, we kept the comments civil. I wondered out loud if he had a dentist appointment to get to, but left it at that.

“Hey, nice work!” said the older brother when I arrived at the anchor. “Yeah, did it clean!” I blurted out—and then regretted it. The boast seemed like a violation of our fellowship.Butpitch after pitch brought new joys, and more fatigue. Pitch 14 offered a huge tower split by a squeeze chimney, with a sharp flake shoved into the mouth. The close bolting lowered the thrill factor, but made pulling up from a full-on lieback a pure delight, like a child on a jungle gym. James wanted the last lead, the 5.9+ pitch 18, so I took 17 and arrived at the anchor in time to see the younger brother take off on lead. He struggled up a series of bouldery cruxes, slipping in a few spots.

The fifth team had watched it all, talking quietly to each other. The woman finally spoke up. “Actually, he’s kind of right. On a long route like this, faster climbers often pass slower ones. It doesn’t have to be a big deal.” Her tone was disarming and direct, but pleasant. After obsessing about being first on the route and then waiting to let others go ahead, I was surprised to find myself reconciled. “OK, if we head up this, can you link two and pass us on the pitch above?” She smiled and said yes, thank you. “Just clip underneath our draws if we pass you on the pitch. It’ll work out fine.” My ego was now focused on another task: I hoped to cruise where the Dude had flailed. I started up confidently, avoided his mistake low down, then swung through some easy moves—and climbed right past the critical bolt below the crux. Unwilling to pull the move far above the last clip, I downclimbed and awkwardly clipped the bolt from above. This exhausted my fingertips, and I soon came off, a blissfully short fall smoothed by James’ soft catch. I was gasping for breath, but could sense the audience below getting restive.

I felt a small shock of recognition. We’d sized them up at the start as fearless young men, brimming over with the athletic advantages of youth. They were decent climbers, they were thoughtful and welltrained—but they were also kids, alone together on an 1800-foot wall. Flyboys would be a nice feather in my cap, a trophy alongside others; for them, Flyboys seemed likely to be a brilliant moment in their youngFarlives.above and out of sight, we heard shouting. Through the fierce wind, the belayer couldn’t tell if his brother was topping out, or maybe in trouble and calling for a take. Doubt grew on his face, and he tightened his brake hand and leaned over, trying to listen above the gusts. The urgent shouting continued, then slowly resolved into whoops. The quiet kid above was roaring with joy. After James led us up the last pitch, we all gathered for a moment to slap hands and praise the climb. Whatever great moment the brothers shared had already crystallized, they were again composed and happy. We were happy too, with the satisfaction of a goal achieved. But theirs was of a different order: the exhilaration of youth, when an achievement can throw open a window to a new version of yourself, and bust the door hinges onto a world of possibilities.James Pitkin and the author climbed Flyboys on August 4, 2022. Thanks to Shirtless Dude for being a good strawman, and to the route developers for a true classic.

□ Everyone is aware that the roof is a priority. We have a quote from a metal roofing company. Provided this to the Forest Service and started the process for approval.

■ Jesse noted a quorum was present. Jesse began by noting that the focus of the meeting would be on five agenda items outlined in the packet.

■ Kaleen is working on finalizing the Forest Service Permit Renewal. Might be some expenses related to this, but need to wait and see what permit assessment will be.

■ Kaleen Deatherage gave their acting executive director report. Items noted beyond the written report are as follows:

INTERIM EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR REPORT.

□ Creation of budget template

■ Presentation of Mt. Hood Forest Management proposal to charge a fee for climbing on the South Side.

□ Greg and Charles working on funding for maintenance projects.

RISK MANAGEMENT BROCHURE (KATHERINE MANAGEMENTPRESENTATIONGRIFFITH)ONRISKASSESSMENT CARD BEING PROPOSED FOR USE IN CLIMBING ACTIVITIES.

□ Looking to simplify the budget template. Through April, YTD actual revenue $493k versus expected budget of $738k, difference of $245k. Activity fees are off considerably by $128k (expected $154k versus $25k). Note: We should explore if this is accounting related, a timing issue, or other as to the level of miss.

■ Question came up about whether the Mazamas took a position on recent similar proposals? Will research this and be proactive about getting messages out when the public comment period begins probably sometime this summer.

■ Stoel Rives non-profit advice engagement (Kaleen/Greg)

by Greg Scott, Secretary MAY 31, 2022

□ Assign goals/targets for non-rev and revenue programs □ Non Rev Programs □ Capping budget increase 110% of 2021 budget (+overhead) (as example)

■ Brendan will be out for wedding and honeymoon. Working on coverage.

■ Budget planning - Meaningful progress on 2022-2023 budget planning □ Aligned/Overarching goal: Balanced budget for 2022-2023 budget year

BYLAWS CHANGE (KALEEN)

■ Working on the website page for Road Ahead. Will include a FAQ and links to articles in the bulletin. Will include a president’s corner.

■ Membership Report. Membership numbers increased to 2,705 members. This is consistent with the 2020 membership numbers. ■ Treasurer’s Report. Kaleen Deatherage and David Urbaniak gave the following report: □ Started budget planning for 2022/2023.

□ Other Steps upcoming: □ Treasurer/ED to partner with bookkeeper to understand best practices to allocate overhead to revenue/non revenue areas.

■ Hired Ryan Cousins as lodge manager. He will be living at the lodge all summer. Will look at adjusting onsite presence for the winter if he decides to stay on. ■ Rick Craycraft’s last day is today. Do not yet have a plan to replace his duties as MMC facilities manager. Rick has agreed to do the minimal amount of continued work to cover transition. ■ Lodge updates.

□ Each program to target a X% margin (revenue over expenses). If not able to meet target, committee to raise with executive council. Target number to be finalized.

□ Lodge will not be open daily until after Ryan is trained, and we have a better understanding of staff support availability, but the goal is to have it open daily.

FOREST SERVICE MANAGEMENT PLAN (GREG)

□ Revenue Generating Programs

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER

□ Goal is for a balanced budget.

□ Charles specifically helped with staffing.

Attending: Jesse Applegate (in-person), President, Aimee Filimoehala (in-person), Vice President , David Urbaniak, (remote) Treasurer; Greg Scott (remote), Secretary, Charles Barker (remote), Bob Breivogel (remote); Not present:, Amanda Ryan-Fear; Staff: Kaleen Deatherage, Interim Executive Director (in-person); Guests: Katherine Griffth, Risk Management, Tom Bode

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□ Will contact summer customers with Ryan, hoping for overlap with Kiki for training opportunities.

□ Through April, YTD actual expenses $459k, versus planned budget of $677k for a difference of $217k. Spend is down by 32% for the budget year. Biggest drivers to reduction: IT, Merchandise Expense, Lodge Meals, and Personnel costs are down for year.

FOREST SERVICE PERMIT RENEWAL UPDATE

□

Focus on: Program Revenue, Fundraising Revenue, Control Expenses □ Guiding Principles (proposed)

Transition to bills.com completeexpect for simpler, streamlined ability with this change

■ The meeting was called to order at 6:04 p.m. by President Jesse Applegate.

□ Collapsing budget tabs to reduce complexity □ Investigating trailing expenses from the previous 12 months to inform upcoming budget, as well as looking into controls/reporting so we have better understanding as to how we’re tracking to budget throughout the year.

EXECUTIVE BOARD MINUTES

BUSINESS AGENDA ■ Minutes. Jesse asked for a motion to approve the minutes from the April 27, 2022 meeting. Aimee made a motion to approve the minutes, Greg seconded. Motion carried.

□ Suggestion for guiding principles for bookkeeper and Kaleeen. The proposed principles are (1) Allocation of overhead; (2) having a cap on budget increases; (3) being prescriptive about having a margin that we are going to expect each committee to meet.

□ Clarity of roles is improving as these decisions are being made together.

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□ Grateful to lodge committee about hiring and navigating Resnex

□ Recommend allocation of overhead to each committee

30 MAZAMAS

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 31 ■ Jesse made a motion to approve the engagement of Stoel Rives with an approved memo specifying tasks. Motion Seconded by David. Motion carried.

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■ The meeting was called to order at 4:02 p.m. by President Jesse Applegate. Jesse noted a quorum was present.

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COLOPHON

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780): Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. The Mazama Bulletin is currently published bi-monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 4 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

□ David - suggestion to have a weekly meeting to check in about board priorities. The board was in agreement. Bob - would like to see a point person program with committees. ■ Jesse adjourned the meeting at 8:03p.m.. JUNE 22, 2022

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Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215

Attending: Jesse Applegate, Aimee Filimoehala, Charles Barker, Bob Breivogel, Amanda Ryan Fear; Absent: Greg Scott, David Urbaniak; Staff: Kaleen Deatherage

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NEW BUSINESS

NOMINATING COMMITTEE EC CANDIDATES REPORT ■ John Rettig ■ Executive Council Candidates 2022 □ Chris Brox □ Terry Donahe (previous board experience) □ Marty Hanson (previous board experience) Claire Tenscher has been on nominating committee ■ Nominating Committee Candidates 2022 □ Kirsten Jacobson Barbara Weiss ■ Will need to appoint 2 candidates ■ Nominating committee would like to use formsite again for election, nominating committee will test system ahead of time, prepare candidate statements ■ Names will need to be added to July/ August bulletin per bylaws ■ Deadline for petition candidates is July council meeting Paper ballots will be opt in ■ Last year 250 paper ballots sent out 135 returned ■ Ardelle Frick will be chief teller

Discussion of how to allocate overhead costs with SMJ, Kaleen and David Need to be able to tell donors what % of each dollar goes to overhead □ More details at July board meeting □ Charles asked where investment account stood in current market, Kaleen will email us □ ICS info night on 6/28 - can we get in front of this re: pricing? (Aimee) Committees for Kaleen to reach out to ■ ICS ■ BCEP □ Kaleen and Charles looking at how we can represent costs of lodge and revenue generation potential □ Kearn and Thompson draft financial statements available for review for vote for approval of compiled statements in July or August ■ Lodge □ Problem solving through loose ends through staff transition □ Need help this weekend at lodge to support Ryan ■ Bylaws □ Hired Stoel Rives attorney who met with Greg, Jesse, Aimee and Kaleen last week □ Suggested approaching the changes by article and vote on each separately Need to firm up unclear language in bylaws □ Board meeting next week to discuss recommendations from attorney ■ Bob moved to approve May meetings minutes, Charles seconded, motion carried OTHER BUSINESS ■ None ■ Jesse concluded the meeting at 5:10pm

MAZAMA STAFF

Phone: 503-227-2345 | help@mazamas.org

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BUSINESS AGENDA: KALEEN DEATHERAGE Executive Director’s Report ■ Finance & Budget Guiding principles for next year’s budget came from meeting with SMJ and finance committee □ Pass a budget that balances this year Inflation may be exception Help committees that generate revenue to aim toward 15% profit margin

GINA BINOLE Office & Communications Coordinator ginabinole@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org RICK CRAYCRAFT Facilities Manager facilities@mazamas.org KALEEN DEATHERAGE Interim Executive Director kaleendeatherage@mazamas.org BRENDAN SCANLAN Operations & IT Manager brendanscanlan@mazamas.org PUBLICATIONS TEAM

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER

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Hours: Tuesday–Thursday, 10:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR, 97028 Phone: mazamalodge@mazamas.org503-272-9214

Hours: Friday–Sunday, 9 a.m.–10 p.m., Monday, 9 a.m.–Noon Editor: Mathew Brock, Bulletin (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org)Editor Members: Peter Boag, Darrin Gunkel, Ali Gray, Ryan Reed, and Claire Tenscher (publications@mazamas.org) CONTACT US For additional contact information, including committees and board email addresses, go to mazamas.org/ contactinformation.

32 MAZAMAS PaidPeriodicalMazamaPostageinPortland,Oregon527Mazamas®SE43rd Ave. Portland OR www.mazamas.org97215 DONATE NOW TO OUR ANNUAL CAMPAIGN! Donations this year will go to support education scholarships, youth programming, grants, and Mazama Lodge maintenance. All women's climb of Glacier Peak, August 6, 2022. Photo by Teresa Dalsager