2018-2019
your guide to winter fun in the mountains
N H Ski a n d Snow.com
2 0 1 8 - 2 0 1 9 N H S k i & S n ow
28 Hotspots
Great Granite State
Après-Ski
Have a Blast This Winter! Living Large on Fat Bikes Do Your Thing in Spring Feeder Hills Fill Skiing’s Soul Getting a lift to the top at Gunstock Mountain Resort
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EXIT HERE Loon Mountain Resort Exit 32 off I-93 | Lincoln, NH Save on Lift Tickets only at LoonMtn.com/Tickets
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c i g a M OF WINTER
We’re here to help! From cruising down the slopes and tubing runs filled with laughter to relaxation at the spa and enjoying the local flavors, there’s no better place to start your adventure than the Western White Mountains. The Lincoln, Woodstock, Franconia Notch area is home to world class skiing and a wide variety of dining and lodging options. Visit WesternWhiteMtns.com/winter to plan your next stay.
Don’t know where to start when planning your winter getaway? Contact us at 603-745-6621 or info@westernwhitemtns.com for suggestions and tips on how to make your winter adventures memorable in the Magical Western White Mountains of NH.
AT THE PLACE
Days Inn Beacon 800-258-8934 / 603-745-8118 daysinnnh.com
Mountain Club on Loon Resort & Spa 800-229-7829 mtnclub.com
Discounted Condominium Rentals at the Nordic Inn Resort 888-883-2305 discountedcondominiumrentals.com
Riverbank Motel & Cabins 800-633-5624 riverbankmotel.com
Econo Lodge Inn & Suites 800-762-7275/ 603-745-3661 econolodgeloon.com Holiday Inn Express & Suites 603-745-6700 hielincoln.com Indian Head Resort 800-343-8000 indianheadresort.com Inn 32 603-745-2416 inn32.com InnSeason Resorts - Pollard Brook 603-745-9900 innseason.com Kancamagus Lodge 603-745-3365 kancamaguslodge.com Loon Reservation Service 800-745-5666 looncondoconnection.com Maple Lodge Cabins 603-745-6688 maplelodgecabins.com
Rivergreen Resort Hotel & Condominiums 888-784-7829 rivergreenresort.com RiverWalk Resort at Loon Mountain 603-745-7500 riverwalkresortatloon.com The Lodge at Lincoln Station 800-654-6188 lodgeresort.com The Nordic Inn Resort 866-734-2164 Nordic-inn.com The Sugar Hill Inn 800-548-4748 sugarhillinn.com Woodstock Inn, Station & Brewery 800-321-3985 woodstockinnnh.com Wilderness Inn 603-745-3890 thewildernessinn.com Woodwards Resort 800-635-8968 603-745-8141 woodwardsresort.com
Mittersill Alpine Resort 603-823-5511 mittersillresort.com
Winterures CALL HOME Advent
NEW HAMPSHIRE’S WESTERN WHITE MOUNTAINS WesternWhiteMtns.com/Winter
NH SKI & SNOW Cannon Mountain
welcome winter! The days have grown shorter, darker and colder — and we couldn’t be happier about it. Ski season has finally arrived, and we’ve got a quick note for family and friends curious about our whereabouts for the next few months — from first frost until (in our opinion) one prematurely warm day in early April, check slopeside. Following an off-season of upgrades and improvements throughout ski country, New Hampshire’s mountain managers, lift operators, instructors and park rats are ready. Among the improvements you’ll notice this season: Bretton Woods will be launching its new eightperson gondola, Wildcat has put its new Pistenbully 400 Snowcat to work, visitors to Cannon Mountain will be helping to celebrate the 80th birthday of its renowned aerial tramway, Cranmore has extended its nighttime offerings and you’ll see that Waterville Valley is ready to host the U.S. Alpine Championships in March. Also prepared for your arrival are the gracious hosts at the Granite State’s many pubs, restaurants and taverns — both on-mountain and in the nearby towns and villages. Warm evenings spent fireside put the perfect capper on chilly days on the trails. Our expert has spent decades conducting extensive research into the best après ski destinations, and he’s happy to share the results of his work with us in this issue. And don’t think about slowing down anytime soon. A pile of late-season snow made for a great spring skiing season, and we can only hope to be as lucky this coming year. In March, ski country was pummeled (or blessed) by three full-on nor’easters, providing more than five feet of snow, ideal conditions during slightly longer days and goggle tans all-around. In this issue, we take a closer look at the beauty of late season outings, rejoice as powder turns to corn and revel in the beauty of mountainside beach parties. As we prepare to write the next chapter in the long and storied history of winter sports in New Hampshire, we do so with the hopes of a long and white winter. Ski safely, ski often and make memories.
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Marty Basch, Brion O’Connor production supervisor
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NH Ski & Snow is a publication of McLean Communications, Inc. 150 Dow Street, Manchester, NH 03101 603-624-1442 © 2018 McLean Communications, Inc. 4 | nh ski & snow
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Contents
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Think Small
Feeder hills are carving a niche for themselves with affordable lift tickets, convenience and community spirit.
36
Bring It On! Spring Skiing
Spring skiing is the reward for enduring weather’s winter roller coaster ride. Whoop it up.
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14 An Insider’s Guide to the Best Aprés Ski
Where powderhounds unwind in the Granite State.
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...And There’s Snow Much More!
Looking for even more winter fun? There’s plenty to do — just add snow.
2018- 2019 Winter Season
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The Cannon Mountain Aerial Tramway this year is marking eight decades of shuttling millions up and down the face of Cannon Mountain.
A new class of fat bikes extends the cycling season through winter.
Up and Away
Living Large
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48
24 hours in North Conway, one of the nation’s top ski towns.
Stats and facts from New Hampshire’s ski country.
A Day in the Life
By the Numbers
SAVE ON LODGING, LIFT TICKETS and SKI & STAY PACKAGES From summit peaks to the valley below, NorthConwayLodging.com is your vaca�on planning guide to New Hampshire’s greater North Conway and Mount Washington Valley region. Make lodging reserva�ons at awarded resorts, hotels, motels and inns – all at guaranteed best rates. Take advantage of ski and stay packages, discounted li� �ckets and gain regional insight and informa�on to local a�rac�ons, events, shopping, dining, summit condi�ons and ski reports.
Book Direct and Save on Lodging. Call 800.862.1600 or visit NorthConwayLodging.com
small think
Feeder Hills Fill Skiing’s Soul By Marty Basch
T
hey’re little hills with big thrills. Across New Hampshire, small, independently owned ski areas — often under-theradar of big mountain skiers and snowboarders — are carving a niche for themselves with affordable lift tickets, convenience, community spirits and reasonably priced lessons. After school ski programs and vacation camps add to the coffers. They have their own ski teams and adult race leagues, and host high school and other races. Many have pursuits like cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, ice skating and tubing.
Head to these smaller, welcoming hills and discover grassroots vibes, not glitz. Steeped in history and tradition, they feed skiing’s soul. Called feeder areas, they’re community-minded hills where chances are you’ll bump into someone you know. Trails lead back to the one base lodge. “It is very important to have the feeder ski areas survive somehow,” said Granite Gorge owner Fred Baybutt. High speed detachable quads? Not exactly. Fixed grips, conveyor lifts and even throwback lifts like rope tows and t-bars are found. There are also struggles. Some have been revived several times over their lives.
Granite Gorge In the shadows of Mount Monadnock and five miles east of downtown Keene in southwest New Hampshire, Granite Gorge takes affordable skiing to heart. Last season, the north-facing family-owned hill slashed lift tickets across the board with lift tickets like an adult full-day cut to $33 from $49. “We’re basically a two for one price when compared to our competitors,” said Baybutt.
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King Pine
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The hill is the rebirth of the old Pinnacle Peak Ski Area, selected by the state as a “gateway” ski area in the late 1950s to compete with hills in Vermont and New York. Baybutt’s family grew up skiing there and wanted to see it pulsing again. “The terrain is beautiful with trails cut back in the late ’50s, early ’60s,” Baybutt said. “There is a variety of trails with character.” There is also cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, night skiing and tubing.
Given the ski industry’s tough competition, Granite Gorge and likeminded mom-and-pop operations are mimicking the multi-resort passes offered by larger resorts with its own — the Freedom Pass. Granite Gorge was one of the first of the five members when the pass started about a half dozen years ago. Now membership is in the teens. Buy a season pass at any of the participating mountains and get three free tickets to all the other Freedom Pass mountains. “We’re the little guys, the feeders, sticking together,” Baybutt said.
King Pine is an example of a longstanding family hospitality enterprise dating back to the late 1800s when patriarch Milt Hoyt founded Purity Spring Resort. The Hoyt family has been providing family-centered recreational activities for more than 100 years. Skiing there dates back to 1938 when Hoyt installed a rope tow to attract small groups to the new sport of skiing — and to get them to stay at his inn. In 1939, he started the Ski & Snowboard Camp for boys and girls, known as the longestrunning ski camp in the country which still runs twice a year. The 17-trail destination, in East Madison and not far from North Conway, is customarily 100 percent open from Christmas week on and has a wide range of activities — skiing, riding, tubing, ice skating, cross-country and snowshoeing — all accessible with one lift ticket. With glades and steeps, King Pine’s 350 feet of vertical offers a great deal. “Parents feel comfortable letting their kids go off alone with friends to explore our trails when they are here day or night skiing,” said Marketing Director Thomas Prindle. Many who’ve learned to ski there come back years later. “What I have found at King Pine is that you have generations of families skiing and riding here, kids that grew up skiing at King Pine who may have moved on to larger ski areas here in the east or even out west, now a couple decades later, have returned to King Pine with their own children because it’s where they learned to ski,” he said.
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photo by jenny green
Abenaki Ski Area
photo by jenny green
Wolfeboro’s Abenaki Ski Area may be small with seven trails and a rope tow, but the town-owned hill carries the label of being the oldest small ski area in the country.
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The first trails were cut in 1936. Four years later, a rope tow and lodge with stone fireplace were added. Like many feeder hills, it’s had its ups and downs. The town eventually took over to manage the Lakes Region area and in 2005 the Friends of Abenaki re-suscitated the hill with new grooming equipment and portable snowmaking. “We really wouldn’t be where we are today without the support of Friends of Abenaki,” said Wolfeboro Parks and Recreation Director Christine Collins. “They are the group that helped keep this hill going.” As do resident families and visitors with small children. The hill bubbles with events like fun ski races, ski a-thon, triathlon and air contests. When the hill’s closed to the public Monday and Tuesday, a few ski teams practice.
Then there’s the price: $8 for locals (Wolfeboro, Tuftonboro and Brookfield) and $20 for others. “It is a smaller hill where most people know your name,” Collins said. “It’s a great place to start learning. Not so many people that you feel lost in the shuffle.” Another element to consider: the excellent location of many of these feeder hills. McIntyre Ski Area in Manchester bills itself as southern New Hampshire’s playground. The urban ski area has an easy draw from the Queen City and its suburbs. The chairlift first started spinning in 1971 with the ski school open-ing some seven years later turning Greater Manchester area tykes into skiers and snowboarders. A pair of double lifts and conveyer lifts serve the nine trails lit at night. The eight-lane tubing hill provides thrills with little skills.
photo by jenny green
photo by jenny green
Dartmouth Skiway in Lyme Center is a rare find, as one of a scattering of ski areas nationwide owned by a college or university. That Dartmouth College connection in nearby Hanover means the 30-trail, four-lift hill is home to the Big Green. It’s hosted NCAA championships and winter carnivals that have seen a slew of racers later compete in Olympic and World Cup competitions. Plus, many people linked to the racing program and Skiway have graduated to ski industry careers. “Big Green alpine teams are here often during the season and that is our main focus, getting them on snow,” said general manager Doug Holler. The Skiway, which had a 102-day season in 2017-18, is also an integral part of after-school and communityfocused ski programs. Dartmouth students even teach about 250 local students to ski there each year, and also comprise about 95 percent of ski patrol. Holler says the area experiences lighter crowds — a good thing for those who take to the hill. “Fewer folks mean that conditions hold a bit better, not getting skied off so quickly,” he said. Though the Skiway attracts a large number of people from the Upper Valley and college (plus their fami-lies and friends), they see other visitors during vacation periods. “We also get a number of visitors from other areas that did not like the crowds there, so they tried us and were very happy they did,” he said.
Tenney Mountain Near Plymouth, Tenney Mountain is a reincarnated ski area that’s seen several ownerships changes and shutdowns during its more than a half century lifespan. Last season, the hill opened briefly in March for its first full weekend after being closed for eight years.
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Dartmouth Skiway
Whaleback Whaleback in Enfield, just off Interstate89, has bounced back several times over the years and re-opened a few years ago as a nonprofit organization called the Upper Valley Snow Sports Foundation. “Without the community, Whaleback wouldn’t’ exist,” General Manager Adam Kaufman said. “Whaleback is a great way to get people outside in the winter, after school, after work, in the evenings and on weekends.” The hill opens in the afternoon and has a Thursday night adult race series.
“People are looking for that lowpriced alternative, especially when they want to learn to ski and snowboard,” Kaufman said. You don’t really need those high speed detachable quads. It is less intimidating to learn the sport.” Whaleback also packs a punch with advanced skiers finding woods runs and double black diamond steeps. There are similarities to the larger resorts — as with any ski resort, feeder hills always have Mother Nature to battle. “Like every mountain, the weather is our biggest challenge,” said Kaufman. Just like the big guys. ❆
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An Insider’s Guide to the Best
The view from Waterville Valley’s Schwendi Hutte.
Where Powderhounds Unwind in the Granite State
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dmittedly, I’m my father’s son. Which means I understand that skiing (and snowboarding) is only half the fun of a day spent on the slopes. The other half? Après ski, of course. I absolutely love skiing and snowboarding, because they make the drudgery of shoveling out the driveway and the whiteknuckle rides almost palatable. These sports
encourage us to embrace the cold and snow, and all the challenges that come with the elements. Skiing and snowboarding make us feel more alive in the dead of winter. So what could be better than sharing those experiences with a host of other folks who think and feel the same way? Skiing and riding, in many ways, are about
By Brion O’Connor
2018- 2019 Winter Season
On-mountain While “après ski” means different things to different people, I’m partial to the pubs found at the lodge, where you can finish your last run, kick out of your bindings, climb a few steps and order an ice cold beer or cocktail of your choice. As my friends in real estate like to remind me, it’s all about location, location, location. Chances are, you’ll find a respectable bar at almost any decent-sized ski area in New Hampshire, from Goosefeathers Pub at Mount Sunapee and The Sled Pub at Pats Peak in Henniker to Ragged Mountain’s Stone Hearth Bar at the Ole Red Barn (grab a Ragged Red Ale from the Flying Goose Brew Pub) and the Ptarmigan Pub at Attitash. If forced to pick just a handful, though, here are my top half-dozen. A Granite State original, the Paul Bunyan Room at Loon Mountain’s will always have a spot reserved in my mid-winter heart, in part because my brother Sean is one of the “Loon doctors” who work hand-in-glove with the resort’s ski patrol. Situated atop the Octagon Lodge, just a short stroll from the First Aid station and the gondola, “the Bunyan” is a classic post-ski meeting place, with plenty of draft beers and a boisterous atmosphere fueled by locals who know an outstanding après ski spot when
they see one. Across Loon’s parking lot, at the Governor Adams Lodge, Babe’s Blue Ox Lounge (get it?) is a decent Plan B. The Cannonball Pub at Cannon Mountain’s Peabody Lodge is another New Hampshire institution. Cannon is a skier’s mountain, and the Cannonball Pub reflects that. Nothing fancy, just plenty of rugged winter enthusiasts sharing exploits on Cannon’s Front Five, surrounded by memorabilia, great beer and good music. Speaking of pubs with history, Zip’s Pub & Grill at Mount Cranmore is a total throwback. The legendary Hannes Schneider would look right at home bellying up the bar, nursing a beer stein and looking out longingly over the slopes he helped make famous. The Onset Pub at Crotched Mountain has partnered with Henniker Brewing to create a yummy signature IPA called “Rocket Fuel,” named after the mountain’s high-speed lift, the Rocket. Given Crotched Mountain’s superb night skiing, however, the Onset is considered by many to be more of a mid-ski respite. Waterville Valley’s Schwendi Hutte is another great mid-day stop, but my wife and I have spent many an afternoon at T-Bars, or chasing our kids around Buckets Restaurant.
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community. We don’t need any frills or drinks with little umbrellas. All we want is the ambiance created by the shared experience. And it’s difficult to find a better sense of camaraderie — swopping high fives and tall tales — than at a great pub. That’s après ski in a nutshell. On the deck at the Sled Pub at Pats Peak in Henniker.
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photo by Dan Brown
Capturing sunshine in a glass at Loon mountain Resorts’ the Paul Bunyan Room.
Come spring, it’s hard to top the deck at the Wildcat Pub at Wildcat Mountain, where you can savor a seasonal draft Tuckerman Brewing Company, Moat Mountain Brewing Company and Switchback Brewing Company, among others. Wildcat is typically the last ski area in New Hampshire to operate lift-serviced skiing and riding (often into May), meaning the pub is a natural spot to work on your late-afternoon tan after enjoying those late-season turns.
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Chillin’ at the Wildcat Pub’s deck is a perfect way to end a day of spring-time skiing.
Don’t forget to include the kids with some après ski fun. This group is enjoying toasting marshmallows at an outdoor fireplace at Bretton Woods. 16 | nh ski & snow
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Ptarmigan Pub at Attitash is a lively gathering spot.
Off-mountain Much like slopeside pubs, the number of quality après ski bars within a short drive of New Hampshire ski hills is dizzying. While the competition for “the best” ski pub remains as lively as ever, there’s one that continues to stand head and shoulders above the rest. The Red Parka Steakhouse & Pub in Glen, near the divergence of Routes 16 and 302, is easily accessible from Wildcat, Attitash/Bear Peak, Black Mountain and Mount Cranmore (not to mention Tuckerman Ravine in the springtime). Expect a crowd and a good time. The restaurant is pure rustic North Country, but the pub is really where the action is. The place is a veritable ski museum, with its walls and ceiling adorned with skis, posters, trail signs, old license plates and even an ancient two-person chair lift. But the vibe makes the place special. If you’re lucky, owner Terry O’Brien will be at her perch at the corner of the big, U-shaped bar. Stop by and say “hi,” but be prepared to chat for a while. You’ll love every minute. Staying on the east side of the Kancamagus Highway, the Wildcat Inn & Tavern in the village of Jackson is a cool spot, with exceptional fine dining to the left of the main entrance, and a good ol’ saloon to the right. Open-mic nights here are a blast. The Shannon Door just off Route 16 is another Jackson gem — a cozy Irish pub with live music in the afternoons, a solid variety of beers, and cooked-to-order pizzas that are a Mount Washington Valley highlight. The Moat Mountain Smokehouse & Brewing Company in North Conway is housed in a beautiful white Colonial, appearing to be more fine dining than brew pub. Don’t be fooled. One sip of any of the numerous brews available here, including Square Tail Stout, Cathedral Ledge Lager or Bone Shaker Brown Ale, and
Day out. Night in. Bring provisions. After a great day out on the slopes, an evening in can be the perfect way to unwind. To bring provisions, stop by one of our over 80 conveniently located New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets – so you’re not left out in the cold.
LiquorandWineOutlets.com
Please Drink Responsibly
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The Cave at the Mount Washington Hotel is both nostalgic and rustic.
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The seasonal brews, like Kanc Country Maple Porter, are a real treat. And that’s not taking anything away from their everyday offerings, such as Red Rack Ale, 4000 Footer IPA and Pig’s Ear Brown Ale. To the north, past Cannon, is the Schilling Beer Company in the funky outpost of Littleton.
This brewery/brewpub has an impressive selection of “progressive continental European-inspired beers,” including a dry, spicy Abbey-style Erastuc, a Bavarian-style golden Paulus, the dark, complex Georg lager, a Czech pale lager named Alexndr and a tart pale ale called Konundrum. Match
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you’ll know these guys are the real deal. Three more North Conway hot spots — Delaney’s Hole in the Wall (winner of the Conway Daily Sun’s Best Après Ski award in 2017), McGrath’s Tavern, and the tasting room at the Tuckerman Brewing Company — are also highly recommended. If you’re up by Loon Mountain in Lincoln, be sure to check out One Love Brewery. Ski country got a big boost in 2015, when Jennifer and Michael Snyder relocated their German lager house and gastropub from Dover to the historic Henry Paper Mill. Michael Snyder’s upbringing in England and Germany is reflected in his awardwinning brews, including an IPA, Czech pilsner and a deep-red marzan, plus a number of tasty single malt and whisky offerings. The food is a worthy match. Don’t pass on the burgers or the Firecracker Nachos. Another hip Lincoln spot for foodies is The Gypsy Café, where you can sample eclectic entrees ranging from a Peruvian Orange Peanut Stir Fry to Moroccan Shrimp and Bavarian Salmon, while I also have a soft spot for The Common Man, a true New England tavern. Nearby, the Woodstock Inn Station & Brewery in North Woodstock has been brewing its own craft beers for two decades. Coupled with a familyfriendly restaurant (with an enormous menu) and inn, the brewery is one-stop shopping for the thirsty powderhound.
Pull up a seat at the bar at the Woodstock Inn Station & Brewery.
beyond Burgers and beer Since man doesn’t live by fresh beers and burgers alone, we ought to point out that New Hampshire ski country also has a number of excellent distilleries and wineries to explore during your après ski romps. Seven Birches Winery, Lincoln (near Loon) White Mountain Winery, Conway (near Cranmore) Hermit Woods Winery, Meredith (near Gunstock) Sap House Meadery, Ossipee (near Gunstock) Haunting Whisper Vineyard & Spirits, Danbury (near Ragged Mountain)
Flagg Hill Distillery and Winery, Lee (near the University of New Hampshire) Stark Brewing Company (and distillery), Manchester (near McIntyre Ski Area) Copper Cannon Distillery, West Chesterfield (west of Granite Gorge) Tamworth Distilling, Tamworth (just south of North Conway) New England Sweetwater Farm & Distillery, Winchester (by Granite Gorge)
any with a wood-fired pizza. Or bring a 64-ounce growler home with you. For something truly unique, and a chance to peel back the decades, visit the stately Mount Washington Hotel after a day at Bretton Woods, and find a quiet table at The Cave. This Prohibition Era speakeasy has been beautifully restored, while preserving all the nostalgia of a Gatsbyesque hideaway, including the old stone walls and a terrific bar. More romantic than raucous, but perfect if that’s what you’re in the mood for, The Inn at Thorn Hill in Jackson is another great escape — check out the wine cellar. And since we started with my Irish heritage, I’ve got to bring things full circle and give a shout out to Murphy’s on the Green in Hanover, a short hop, skip, and jump from the Dartmouth Skiway and Whaleback in Enfield. Dad would have loved this place. ❆
More Fun, More Affordable. Ski-In/Ski-Out Stay Packages Available.
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Aprés ski hit list Babe’s Blue Ox Lounge at Loon Mountain loonmtn.com/dining-and-apres/babes-blue-ox-lounge Buckets, Schwendi Hutte and T-Bars waterville.com/dining-shopping Cannonball Pub at Cannon Mountain cannonmt.com/dining-pub-options.html The Cave mnihotels.com/hotels/bretton-woods-mount-washington/ dining/the-cave
want more winter?
Delaney’s Hole in the Wall • delaneys.com Goosefeathers Pub at Mount Sunapee mountsunapee.com/mountain/lodges-food The Inn at Thorn Hill • innatthornhill.com Murphy’s on the Green http://www.murphysonthegreen.com One Love Brewery • onelovebrewery.com Onset Pub at Crotched Mountain crotchedmtn.com/onset-pub-and-lounge Paul Bunyan Room at Loon Mountain loonmtn.com/dining-and-apres/paul-bunyan-room Ptarmigan’s Pub at Attitash attitash.com/ptarmigans-pub Red Parka Steakhouse & Pub • redparkapub.com Schilling Beer Company • schillingbeer.com Sled Pub at Pats Peak patspeak.com/the-mountain/sled-pub.aspx Stone Hearth Bar at Ragged Mountain raggedmountainresort.com/the-stone-hearth-bar Wildcat Pub at Wildcat Mountain skiwildcat.com/dining-apres Woodstock Inn Station & Brewery woodstockinnnh.com Zip’s Pub and Grill at Mount Cranmore cranmore.com/the-mountain/resort-information/dining
Save big & ski more this winter season at
SkiNH.com And be sure to check out NHSkiandSnow.com for more winter-time inspired fun and adventure! NH S k i and S now.c om
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CARVE YOUR NEW WINTER ADVENTUR SKIING
FRANCONIA
VISITNH.GOV
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On a clear day you can see Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, the Adirondacks in New York and Canada.
“He petitioned the New Hampshire legislature to build this and was quite influential in getting it done,” Leitch said. A study was undertaken to identify the most suitable location. A list of 25 potential locations in the White Mountains was drawn up, and later narrowed down to Moosilauke and the eventual winner, Cannon. Construction 24 | nh ski & snow
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took nine months and necessitated hiring a crew of nearly 50 men just to haul supplies like concrete, steel and tools up the mountain manually. A labor force made up of 200 members of the Civilian Conservation Corps went to work, completing the project in time for a June 28, 1938 dedication.
“It contributed immediately to this place becoming a full-on ski area,” Cannon Mountain and Franconia State Park Sales and Marketing Director Greg Keeler said. “They were cutting trails in the 1930s — we had the first ski racing trail in North America in 1933 — but these guys were cutting the race trails and hiking to them. As soon as we put the tramway in, it immediately
An aerial tramway differs from other modes of mountain transport in that, unlike gondolas or lifts, it’s got two fixed cars — became a summer destination, as well. That really opened the doors for developing it as a ski area.” As the first of its kind in America, the tramway became a tourist attraction. Its early notoriety alone paid off economically for the region. An Austrian named Baron Hubert von Pantz came to the U.S. in the late 1930s to scout locations
one goes up and one goes down — passing one another at the exact same spot during its journey each time it travels upward or down to the visitor’s center at the base.
for a possible ski school. He gravitated to Lake Placid, New York, in part due to its notoriety following the 1932 Olympic Games. However, rain storms and gloomy weather made for a lessthan-stellar stay. Von Pantz had heard of the new aerial tramway to the east, so he hired a taxi to take him from Lake Placid to Laconia, and then made his way to Franconia Notch. He was so impressed with the tramway — and the nearby property — that he bought land and built the Mittersill Alpine Resort, which sits in full view of the innovative transport and is now part of Cannon Mountain. “They not only built a tramway,” Leich said. “They built a structure of personnel and a year-round maintenance team. They built a whole organization around it — and part of that organization was that they hired the first professional ski patrol in the country to help operate it.” The original tramway, which was replaced in 1980, held 27 people. From its opening in 1938 until it was replaced, the original tram is said to have taken more than six million visitors to the summit of Cannon Mountain. The new tramway — two cars easily identifiable by vibrant red and yellow paint schemes and nicknamed “Ketchup” and “Mustard” — can fit as many as 80 people on-board and is three times more efficient than its predecessor. The 2.1-mile trip takes eight minutes to ascend to the top of the 4,080-foot peak — the highest in New Hampshire with the largest vertical drop of 2,180 feet. NH S k i and S now.c om
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The 2.1-mile trip takes eight minutes to ascend to the top of the 4,080foot peak — the highest ski area summit in New Hampshire.
Visitors are provided an informative description of the tramway and the area by attendants who help pilot the cars up and down the mountain. As the tramway begins its ascent and the Franconia Notch Parkway shrinks below, unmatched views of the New England Ski Museum, hiking trails, Artist’s Bluff, Echo Lake and the Presidential Range reveal themselves. “On a clear day you can see four states and Canada,” Keeler said. “You can see Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, you can catch the Adirondacks in New York and then you can see just into Canada.” At the top of the tramway, visitors can visit Café 4080 (“It has the highest beer taps in New Hampshire,” Keeler said.) to warm up, rest up, get something to eat and sample locallyproduced beer and ales. 26 | nh ski & snow
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The tramway continues its up-and-down journey every 15 minutes. “That’s Mount Lafayette across the way,” Keeler said. “It’s part of the Appalachian Trail, and right across the ridge — it’s like a knife-edge — with binoculars you can see people walking down the ridge line.” In June, the Cannon Mountain Aerial Tramway marked its 80th anniversary with live ’30s and ’40s era music, free tram rides, and commemorative coins for the first 500 riders. “While we celebrate the past 80 years, we’re extremely proud of how far we’ve come in just the past 10,” said John DeVivo, general manager of Cannon Mountain. “From the redevelopment of the Mittersill slopes to the recent investment in a state-of-the-art, energy efficient snowmaking system, Cannon is poised for continued success well into the future.”
Part of that success and growth is directly attributable to a plan undertaken more than 80 years ago, and more recently, to the addition of a little Ketchup and Mustard. “The tram is a New Hampshire icon,” Keeler said. “There’s only one other one in New England, at Jay Peak, but for Cannon, it’s been here since 1938 and it’s in Franconia Notch — the flagship state park. It’s just one of those things that people want to do, whether it’s summertime or wintertime. When you bring someone up here who’s not used to the mountains and there’s two and a half feet of rime ice on everything and it’s cold, and then you can go inside and there’s a restaurant and a bar — it’s a pretty great experience.” ❆
ENDLESS FAMILY FUN ONLY MINUTES AWAY
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100% Snowmaking coverage Three terrain parks State-of-the-art rental equipment A great learn-to-ski and snowboard mountain • Group discount for 15 or more people
Pay-One-Price (POP) Saturday Night
One low price gives you access to lifts, rentals, lesson tips, tubing, entertainment and more from 3-10pm
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24-HOUR INFORMATION AND SNOW CONDITIONS:
Majestic Views
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Nordic Village is in the Center of it All! Sunday River 60 miles
and a short drive to
Major Ski Areas
Great Glen Trails 13 miles
Amenities Include:
Bretton Woods 27 miles
On-site Cross Country Skiing
10 miles
Black Mtn. 3 miles
Cannon Mtn.
Ice Skating Indoor Pool Sauna Fitness Center Outdoor Heated Pool Nightly Bonfires Discounted Ski Tickets
Many suites and rooms with fireplaces and Jacuzzi tubs.
Wildcat
52 miles
Jackson Ski Touring 1 mile
Attitash 4 miles
Bear Notch 9 miles
Loon Mountain 40 miles
Cranmore 8 miles
Waterville Valley 54 miles
Shawnee Peak 32 miles
King Pine 22 miles
Route 16 ~ Jackson, NH
Call
1-877-564-7829 or visit nordicvillage.com NH S k i and S now.c om
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photo by Steve Holmes
A fat biker and his dog make tracks on the frozen Goose Pond at Drummer Hill in Keene.
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ove over, skiers, snowboarders and snowshoe devotees. There’s a new cold-weather sheriff in town, and he’s making tracks with a pair of fat tires. Really fat tires. In New Hampshire, after Thanksgiving, traditional snow sports rule. Whether the skis were skinny cross-country models, wider alpine planks or the broad platform of a snowboard, winter athletes have found their endorphin fix by gliding atop the snow. Now, an ever-evolving breed of mountain bikes — dubbed “fat bikes” — is staking its claim to the hearts of outdoor enthusiasts.
“I’ve never been a huge fan of Nordic or skate skiing, so this provided me an outlet for winter exercise,” said Ray Orzechowski, a dentist and avid mountain biker from Concord. “Once you get on a fat bike, most people are hooked by the sheer fun element. It’s unlike any other riding experience, due to the playfulness of the bikes.” Even diehard ski fans have fallen under the spell of these human-powered winter rigs. “I’m a lifelong skier — alpine, alpine backcountry touring, Nordic touring, Nordic skate skiing — and initially resisted fat biking,” said Margie Lynch, who often
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Skiiers, snowshoers and fat bikers all share the cross-country trails at Gunstock Mountain Resort.
rides the FOMBA (Friends of Massabesic Bicycling Association) trail network outside Manchester. “I had trouble imagining myself choosing it over skiing. And I was hesitant to take on the extra expense and hassle of buying another bike — my small shed was already housing four bikes. “Then I saw more and more of my mountain-biking acquaintances getting fat bikes, and then my boyfriend got one,” said Lynch. “At the same time, it was becoming increasingly clear to me that climate change was making good quality snow less reliable for skiing. And fat biking was a way to have fun with my boyfriend and other friends, and have more options at hand for a variety of conditions.” Bicycles have long been considered by cyclists to be the key to eternal youth. It’s just about impossible to act like a prim, 30 | nh ski & snow
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proper adult when you’re racing around under your own power. For years, since they first gained popularity in the 1970s and ‘80s, mountain bikes have been known as fat-tire bikes. That moniker made sense, particularly when you compare their wider, knobby tires to the thin, high-pressure tires of road bikes, which were designed for pure speed on asphalt. Conversely, the “fat tires” of mountain bikes, ranging between 1.9 and 2.4 inches in diameter, were designed for the dirt and mud and uneven landscapes. They opened a new world — off road — to adventure seekers, and quickly became the darling of the “extreme” set. Today, though, a new generation of fat bikes is revolutionizing the concept of fat tires, allowing winter riders to pedal over the river and through the woods.
Bicycles have long been considered by cyclists to be the key to eternal youth. It’s just about impossible to act like a prim, proper adult when you’re racing around under your own power. “Fat bikes are a great way to expand the riding season into the snowy and cold New England winter,” said Derek Griggs of Seabrook, a sales representative for Pivot and KHS, both of which produce fat bikes. “If the crosscountry skiing is not very good, it’s often perfect fat-biking conditions.
courtesy photo
“Fat bikes make people smile, and get them outside in the winter,” said Griggs. “What could be better?” First developed for the grueling, multi-day Iditabike Race held annually in Alaska, fat bikes are taking mountain biking to an entirely different level and terrain. Previously, mountain bikers relied on studded tires or even chains to deal with snow and ice. Fat bikes, equipped with either 26-inch or 29-inch wheels featuring oversized tires ranging in diameter from 3.5 to 5 inches, have a much wider “contact patch” that help the bikes effectively float on snow. “Fat bikes are like powder skis compared to all-mountain skis, in that they make softer surfaces — snow or sand — rideable because of flotation and traction,” said Griggs. “But just as you wouldn’t take your powder skis into an icy race course, fat bikes are not perfect for everything. The fat bike
is most often an additional bike in a rider’s quiver, and might not see any riding between April and November.” The “flotation” mentioned by Griggs is the result of the cushioning effect of the fat bike’s low tire pressure. Road tires will typically run between 100-125 pounds per square inch (PSI), and mountain bikes range between 25 and 60 PSI (depending on terrain and suspension choice). Fat bike riders, however, typically run their tires with less than 10 PSI, giving them a plush, more forgiving ride. With their ridiculously oversized tires, fat bikes almost look like clown bikes, until you try one. Then you’ll be convinced. Many converts made the switch quickly, with little arm-twisting. “I had several other friends that owned fat bikes,” said Jay Harrington of Campton. “I was skeptical at first, and said it was just a fad. After my first ride, which was on a rental bike, I bought my own.” Former professional racer Tim Johnson, the first cyclist to pedal a fat bike up the Mount Washington Auto Road in mid-winter during a special Red Bull-sponsored event in early 2016, has made his living riding bikes of all shapes and sizes. Fat bikes, he said, are irresistible. “They are just so much fun,” said Johnson. “It’s like a light tank.” It’s an apt description. Fat bikes aren’t designed to be particularly fast. But with enough momentum, they’ll roll over just about anything. “Fat bikes are amazingly stable, yet nimble,” said Philip Keyes, executive director of the New England Mountain Bike Association, which has six chapters in New Hampshire. “They offer incredible traction and control, and are extremely comfortable due to their upright posture and cushy tires.”
Getting Started 9 TIPS FOR BEGINNER FAT BIKE RIDERS
1. Rent gear the first time. Many of New Hampshire’s ski areas and local bike shops offer rentals of fat bikes and safety gear, with rentals starting around $40 a day. Try it before you buy it. 2. Choose your day. The weather will play a big role in your experience. If it’s too cold or windy, you’ll be miserable. 3. The ideal trail is hard packed snow. Small patches of ice are okay — but treat any ice longer than the length of the bike with respect. 4. Trails are rated for difficulty. Choose easy or moderate trails when you’re just starting out, especially if you have no mountain biking experience. Start with short trails. 5. Dress appropriately. Wear warm winter boots and gloves or mitts with enough dexterity so you can change gears. You still need to wear a helmet so a thin hat or a headband is a good idea. Padded shorts with leg warmers under an outer shell would certainly make the ride more comfortable. 6. Bring water or a drink to stay hydrated — in a thermos if it’s really cold so it doesn’t freeze. 7. Don’t forget energy bars and snacks. Working hard on the bike, you’ll use a lot of calories. You don’t want to burn out far from the trailhead. 8. The better physical shape you’re in, the more enjoyable the fat bike experience will be. Know your limits. 9. Share the trail. Many fat tire trails are shared with cross-country skiers, hikers and snowshoers. Stay out of the ski tracks and be prepared to pull over for others. For more great fast bike tips, visit hikebiketravel.com NH S k i and S now.c om
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The bikes can be made from a variety of materials, including steel, aluminum, titanium or carbon fiber, and usually have disc brakes. You can find them with or without front and rear suspension, and in singlespeed and multigeared models. Expect to pay anywhere from $700 up to $6,000 for custom models (the average is in the $1,500-2,500 range). Still, it’s hard to put a price tag on the joy they generate. “You can’t help but feel like a kid when you got your first bike,” said Orzechowski. “They are surprisingly agile and easy to ride, and the suspension-like feel you get from the fat tires creates a less-jarring riding experience, which is much appreciated by this 54-year-old body.” As Griggs mentioned, a fat bike is not a “one size fits all” pedaling machine. They aren’t ideal for every situation. For starters, they carry a weight penalty. While a race-ready mountain bike tips the scales at just about 20 pounds, a typical fat bike will weigh in the 30-35 pound range. And they can be sluggish.
The absolute best thing about these bikes and snow “The larger tires add rotational weight and significantly change handling,” said Dan Dwyer of Auburn, vice president of NEMBA’s Southern New Hampshire chapter. “Both of these attributes make it very important to maintain speed and reduce acceleration and deceleration. Basically, fat bikes ride best if you keep pedaling, braking as little as possible, and maintaining as consistent a speed as possible.” Concord’s George Bradley Cilley said fat bikes not only extended his riding season, but also his choice of available riding terrain. “The absolute best thing about these bikes and snow is that you can get into places not accessible 32 | nh ski & snow
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aces not accessible is that you can get into pl
in summer months,
t frozen over. when the swamps and wetlands are no
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photo by Steve Holmes
in summer months, when the swamps and wetlands are not frozen over,” said Cilley. “The only upgrade I consider every year and will make at some point is to add a set of studded tires. Without them, I’m missing riding on frozen ponds when the wind sweeps them clean.” Much like studded car tires, studded fat bike tires feature small steel or aluminum knobs that add grip. Bow’s Tom Cook, one of Cilley’s riding partners, said studded tires provide an element of confidence on unpredictable winter surfaces. “Riding with studs takes a lot of the anxiety out of the equation, especially when riding after a dusting of a snowfall on a freezing cold day,” said Cook. “You know there’s ice under there somewhere. It’s not a matter of if you’ll roll over it, but when.” And, of course, there’s the dilemma of what to wear. The Scandinavians have a saying that New Englanders have embraced for centuries: “There’s no such 34 | nh ski & snow
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thing as bad weather, only bad clothing.” Fat biking, like Nordic skiing, can be tricky, since participants generate considerable heat while exercising. So you’ve got to balance clothing that is warm but breathes, while providing adequate protection from the biting winds that occasionally rip through the Granite State. Many mountain bike shoe manufacturers, notably Sidi, Louis Garneau and Lake, offer winterspecific boots that provide added warmth and are still clipless-pedal compatible. Wool socks — a staple of winter athletes for decades — are highly recommended. There are other cold-weather considerations. Some winter riders outfit their handlebars with hand muffs to keep their digits toasty, allowing them to wear thinner, more flexible gloves. Many seasoned mountain bikers prefer the same clipless pedals that they use during the warmer months, while others opt for flat, platform pedals on their fat bikes.
“As a cross-country rider and former racer, I ride clipless,” said Dwyer. “Many riders elect to use flat pedals and non-cycling boots for warmth, and to prevent icing of the clipless pedal mechanism.” Finally, remember that proper trail etiquette is just as important during the colder months as any other time of the year. “Don’t ride in conditions that create tire ruts and ruin the riding experience for others,” said Harrington. “If ruts refreeze, it can take weeks for them to disappear. “Two, if you have to get off the bike, don’t walk in the trail tread because no one likes riding over post holes,” he said. “A lot of effort goes into packing and grooming the trails. It’s important to be respectful of those efforts.” After all, being the new sheriff comes with certain responsibilities. ❆ When he’s not at his desk, long-time mountain biker and veteran freelance writer Brion O’Connor can usually be found pedaling any of one of his seven bicycles, any time of the year.
OUR 2018/19 SEASON
LEVEL
500 NEW SNOW GUNS
NEW HIGH COUNTRY T - BAR
We’ve increased our snowmaking capabilities.
Two times faster and less susceptible to wind than our previous lift.
RENOVATED BASE LODGE
RFID GATELESS TICKETING
New Look, New Feel. Enjoy our completely renovated Base Lodge.
Our new RFID ticketing system is now reloadable online at waterville.com/reload.
GREEN PEAK EXPANSION COMPLETED Trail builds and snowmaking is complete. All 10 trails are scheduled to open.
waterville.com
Whatʼs Your
LEVEL? #NextLevel
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courtesy photo
Spring offers the chance to live on the lighter side of the mountain, like these enthusiasts (and their Flexible Flyers) at Bretton Woods.
photo by Dave Cowley
Heading out for a day of spring skiing at Cranmore Mountain.
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bring it on!
Spring skiing at Loon Mountain means longer days, warmer weather and plenty of sunshine.
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ashed potatoes. Corn. Goggle tans. Hawaiian shirts. ’80s clothing and music. Beach parties. Longer days and sunshine. These are the signs of spring across New Hampshire’s ski country as skiers and snowboarders whoop with joy as Mother Nature releases her feisty grip on winter. Spring skiing in New Hampshire is the reward for enduring weather’s winter roller coaster ride. Warmer temps, fewer layers and zany events fill ski days, as prices drop with discounted daily rates, spring passes and multi-day package deals. Buy next season’s pass and use it this season, as St. Patrick’s Day, April Fool’s Day and Patriot’s Day often yield lift ticket deals. “March can no longer be regarded as the end of ski season and to many who savor longer days and warmer temps, there’s really no better time to hit the slopes,” Bretton Woods Sales and Marketing Director Craig Clemmer said.
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By Marty Basch
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courtesy photo
A spring snowboarder catches air at Cannon Mountain as spectators show their approval.
Case in point: Bretton Woods reported more than five feet of snow last March. “By springtime there is a great base and skiers are looking forward to warmer days out on the hill, especially if it has been a particularly cold winter,” he said. Follow the Sun Spring skiing can mean experiencing four seasons in a single day. The snow softens and stays more firm in the shadows. Timing is everything as skiers look for that perfect day, hour or run when the snow is dreamy and creamy. Or maybe they’re mashing moguls, busting bumps and showing off. “Spring skiing all depends on the snow, on what Mother Nature decides to give us,” Mount Sunapee Marketing Director Megan Burch said. 38 | nh ski & snow
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Spring skiers know that March is typically the snowiest month, with last season’s roundhouse of March nor’easters providing plenty of proof. It can also be a schizophrenic month, with the lion and lamb battling it out. Last year, the lion came out on top. More than four feet snow, a March miracle, blanketed Granite State slopes near the end of last season, allowing for a number of welcome encores when several ski areas went beyond their scheduled closing dates with an extra weekend or two. “We’ve had years where March is a busier month than January,” said Cannon Mountain Marketing Director Greg Keeler. Location also helps. South facing slopes and trails are where the sun reigns supreme. North Conway’s in-town resort, Cranmore, has that distinction, and has the nickname to prove it — Tanmore.
Spring skiing can mean experiencing four seasons in a single day. “Since we are south facing, we also have the advantage of being the warmer choice on cooler days,” says Marketing Director Becca Deschanes. “Plus who doesn’t love soft snow, bumps on Koessler, or hanging out on the deck of Zip’s [at the base] or the Meister Hut [at the summit]?” Spring showcases the diehard skier and rider. Those people who tend to be the first in line during opening day in autumn tend to be there late-season too. “The folks who visit us in the spring really live and breathe skiing and riding; they know
But oh, the places you’ll go in the snow. Spring skiing can also feel like a day at the beach, particularly at Mount Sunapee where the beginner trail, Flyway — between Sunapee Lodge and Spruce Lodge — morphs into the “Beach.” Inflatable sofas, carpets, grills and more make it one big tailgating party on snow especially when the sun basks the spot in radiant warmth. Beach fanatics are often the first to come, (think 5:30 a.m.), and last to go, after the lifts close. Another spring spot to chill is along Cannon’s Taft Slalom Trail, the area’s first trail cut in 1933 for racing. Not only is the afternoon sun an attraction, so, too, is an enclave off the trail on skier’s right called “The Rock” by locals — where a little relaxation goes a long way.
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how good conditions are at this time of year, and they want to take full advantage,” said Loon Communications Manager Greg Kwasnik. “When spring arrives and the end of the season’s in sight, they want to get as many runs in as possible.” So outside is where they want to be, whether skiing or taking a break as beverages flow. “On spring days, we find many skiers and riders enjoy lunch out on the tables on the decks,” said Pats Peak Marketing Director Lori Rowley. “They can also be found taking a break on our long benches on the decks.” Spring can also mean something slightly different in ski country, starting in earnest after the end of the robust February vacation periods. Lighter crowds are a draw as southern New Englanders deal with conflicting interests like yard work, the allure of boating and golf, and shuttling the kids to spring sports. Spring conditions can present a few obstacles, however. Mashed potatoes may be tasty on the table, but those slushy dollops of snow can wear on even the most seasoned of knees, quads and thighs. Pushing through the mush is tiring. That corn snow outside the base lodge differs from the blissful kernels on trails’ edge, staying soft underfoot and making the trek to the lifts a trudge. The snow can also be a halting experience on the long end-of-trail runout back to the lift. Bypass that by choosing runs ending closer to the chairlift. Spring skiers and riders have to keep watchful eyes out for hazards like rocks, icy spots, tufts of scrub brush poking up through the snow and brown ground. Thin cover and caution signs abound. Then there’s that sticky, grippy snow that slows you down. The remedy? Wax.
Sometime those decks outside base lodges can be as popular as the skiing and riding with the pulse of the sun creating those raccoon eyes and alpine freckles on bespectacled sunbathers. “When you finish your day back on the [Peabody Lodge] deck and Mount Lafayette turns pink, it really hammers home how amazing Cannon can be in late March and April,” Keeler said. Events abound Gunstock’s festive annual Spring Thing combines a cardboard box race, terrain park contest and more, while daffies, backscratchers, and spread eagles rock at Ragged’s Bump n’ Jump Old School Ski Competition. Waterville Valley says good-bye with a splash during its Last Run Luau while King Pine’s loads up with pond skimming, cardboard box races and an Easter egg hunt.
Creativity is as important as speed in Crotched Mountain’s cardboard box sled race. NH S k i and S now.c om
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Wipe out! A slushpool contestant makes a splash at Bretton Woods’ Beach Party.
run this spring. The race is on the serious side of fun with a strict cardboard only rule, enforced with a metal detector. One year the detector went off, finding a lone staple. It was plucked out, keeping the entrants in the race. Cannon’s unique tug-of-war pits teams of costumed warriors against each other, as participants attempt to pull each other over the line. It was born a few years ago after a finicky Mother Nature dispensed quickly with the spring snowpack, denying the mountain faithful the traditional splash pond event.
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Those pond skims (slush cup, slush pool — it’s all the same) are a rite of spring. Pro tip: approach the pool with a reasonable amount of speed, and pretend you’re waterskiing. Try to keep your tips up. Also, bring a set of dry clothes if you’re trying to cross the chilly waters. Loon’s Slushpool Party is a classic with an enthusiastic crowd lining the ice-cold pool created by the resort’s terrain park crew and on the deck of the Paul Bunyan Room. Sunapee’s Intragalactic Cardboard Sled Race is set for its 28th annual
The Hannes Schneider Meister Cup is unlike any ski race in history. It combines the best of skiing today with the warm nostalgia of yesterday. 40 | nh ski & snow
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One long-standing Pats Peak tradition is the family-friendly Hawaiian Weekend, a mainstay for over 25 years. The more outlandish the better. (Everyone gets a lei.) “Everyone looks forward to Hawaiian Weekend every season,” Rowley said. “It’s a great time to enjoy spring skiing and riding while wearing your tropical outfit. Our guests feel like they are visiting a tropical island after the winter weather season.” The Bretton Woods’ Beach Party, which turns 32 this season, is the resort’s signature event. When the annual event turned 30, a blow-out celebration saw nearly 2,500 people take part while working on their goggle tans. Sixty skiers and riders tried the Slushpool contest that year, and participants this season can expect a downhill on-snow bicycle race. Cranmore’s annual Hannes Schneider Meister Cup event is not only a New England Ski Museum fundraiser but also honors the father of modern skiing whose Arlberg skiing technique put North Conway and New Hampshire on the skiing map starting in 1939. As the late great Yogi Berra once said, “It ain’t over til it’s over.” He must’ve meant spring skiing in New Hampshire. ❆
A S HORT TRIP FOR THE LO NG E ST
LASTING MEMORIES. # We A r e S u n a p e e
WELCOME TO OUR STORY M O U N T S U N A P E E .C O M
1025 Sunapee NHSkiSnow 180911.indd 1
9/12/18 12:18 PM
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walk a mile in my snowshoes There may be no better way to experience the quiet, remote beauty of a winter day than from atop some snowshoes. If you’re looking to rent snowshoes or groomed trails, here’s where to go. King Pine at Purity Spring Resort in Madison Mount Washington Valley Ski Touring & Snowshoe in Intervale Gunstock Mountain Resort in Gilford Waterville Valley Resort Pats Peak Ski Resort in Henniker Jackson Ski Touring Foundation in Jackson Great Glen Trails in Pinkham Notch Prescott Farm Environmental Education Center in Laconia
King Pine
snow
... and there’s
Omni Mount Washington Resort in Bretton Woods Windblown Cross Country Skiing and Snowshoeing in New Ipswich Loon Mountain Adventure Center in Lincoln Beaver Brook Association in Hollis Granite Gorge Ski Area in Keene Dartmouth Cross Country Ski Center in Hanover Dexter’s Inn in Sunapee
l c
much more!
The beauty of the New Hampshire landscape is apparent year-round. Add a blanket of powder, however, and things really start to get interesting.
S
kiing and snowboarding bring visitors to the state from all over the world, of course, but there’s a whole roster of activities to take part in away from the mountain. We’ve compiled a listing of activities particular to our favorite season in our favorite region. Dress warm, leave the skis and boards behind and embrace the snow and all the region has to offer.
zip through the canopy Situated on the slopes of Bretton Woods at New England’s Mount Washington Resort, our 3-hour canopy tour takes nature lovers and thrillseekers across a series of tree-top zip lines, sky bridges and a network of platforms high in the ancient hemlocks. You can also find zipline tours at Cranmore, Gunstock and Loon.
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Muddy Paws Dog Kennel, Mount Washington Resort
Purity Spring Resort
take a sleigh ride together with me
Attitash Mountain Resort
mush along with the doggies Propel across the scenic winter landscape behind a team of powerful four-legged friends. Available at multiple locations throughout New Hampshire.
Snuggle under a warm blanket and clutch a cup of steaming hot chocolate as you’re whisked through the picturesque countryside in a horse-drawn sleigh. Hotels, inns, stables and farms throughout the state give visitors a chance to recreate their own, real-life Currier and Ives print. Bretton Woods, Omni Mount Washington Resort omnihotels.com Waterville Valley Resort Town Square waterville.com Charmingfare Farm, Candia visitthefarm.com Franconia Inn, Franconia franconiainn.com
Purity Spring Resort, East Madison purityspring.com Coppal House Farm, Lee nhcornmaze.com Farm by the River Bed and Breakfast, North Conway farmbytheriver.com
Make some tracks in the new fallen snow and breathe deep.
Bretton Woods
Cranmore Mountain Resort
ride the mountain coaster Cranmore, Gunstock and Attitash all have mountain coasters, which propels riders over thousands of feet of twisting, turning fun through the woods. Riders can control the speed for a leisurely ride or a fast run.
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sit back and enjoy After a long day of skiing, or during mid-day break, kick back and take the time to reconnect with family and friends. Snowmobiling in the Mount Sunapee area
Cranmore Mountain Resort
fly down hill on a tube of air On the surface, there’s not much to sledding and tubing — just take a deep breath, hold on tight and push off. But there’s nothing like the thrill of rocketing down a slick hill with the bracing winter air in your face and the landscape whizzing by in a blur. Many of the ski resorts include a tubing hill. Great sledding can also be found off the mountains, too. Finding them can be a challenge, as locals often guard the information jealously. We’ll list a few here — just don’t tell anyone where you heard about them. Bragdon Farm Sledding Hill, Amherst Located off of Route 101, next to LaBelle Winery. (Parking is actually located across the street but there’s a tunnel that goes under the highway).
Shaker Village Hill , Enfield This long run makes the walk-up worth it. Head along Route 4A by Mascoma Lake and you’ll find your fun. shakermuseum.org
Morningside Hang Glider Park, Charlestown
Carnival Hill, Wilton This hill isn’t super steep but the length makes it fun, especially for teens, tweens and young adults. You can find the hill along Hillside Road in the town of Wilton.
This park is mostly known to hang gliders, but in the offseason this hill is perfect for snow tubing, sledding and snow kiting. flymorningside.kittyhawk.com 44 | nh ski & snow
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blaze through the trails More than 7,000 miles of snowmobile trails crisscross New Hampshire, thanks to a partnership between landowners, riders and countless volunteers from the more than 110 snowmobile clubs in the state. Club members groom and maintain trails, hold meetings and sponsor outings and safety workshops. New Hampshire Snowmobile Trail Map: nhstateparks.org/uploads/pdf/ NH_Snowmobile-Corridor_Map.pdf
Visit the Western White Mountains
Indian Head Resort
STAY HERE.
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Stay at this legendary mountain resort, and ski at Bretton Woods, SKI magazine’s pick for #1 grooming in the East for 5 years!
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Just 2.5 hours from Boston and 30 minutes from Lincoln and North Conway.
per night for 2
Subject to change & availability. Restrictions apply
Discounted Ski Tickets FREE SHUTTLE TO Loon & Cannon! No Parking Hassle
1-800-343-8000 Exit 33 off I-93, Lincoln, NH www.indianheadresort.com
BRETTONWOODS.COM/ LODGING (800) 843-6664 *SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY SUN-THURS DURING SELECT PERIODS. RESTRICTIONS AND BLACKOUT DATES APPLY. VALID THROUGH 2018-19 SKI SEASON.
A CHARMING COUNTRY INN 35 guest rooms near Cannon, Bretton Woods & Loon ski areas!
X-C SKI CENTER • TUBING • HOT TUB
Take flight on the Bretton Woods Canopy Tour, named one of Yankee Magazine’s Unforgettable Guided Adventurers. Ask about the “Zip & Ski” special.
Skating & Sleigh rideS... 603-278-4ZIP (4947) BRETTONWOODS.COM
1172 Easton Road Franconia, NH 03580 reservations@franconiainn.com
603.823..5542 • franconiainn.com NH S k i and S now.c om
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nh ski & snow | 45
a day in the
A
life
national audience now knows what New Hampshire residents have known for generations — North Conway is one of the country’s best year-round small towns for outdoor adventure. North Conway made USA Today’s 10 Best Reader’s Choice Travel Awards as one of the Best Small Towns for Year-Round Adventure this past spring, tipping-off a nation who may not have known about the destination’s top-notch reputation. Whether it’s the seven alpine resorts and six Nordic and snowshoe centers within 30 minutes of the town center, the tubing areas, ice skating arenas, 200 miles of snowmobiling trails, sleigh riding opportunities or ice climbing sites, North Conway is a quintessential American small town — particularly when the snow is flying. “Set amid the sprawling White Mountain National Forest, North Conway offers visitors access to Mount Washington (the tallest peak in the northeast) and the accompanying four seasons recreation,” the experts described in the readers poll. “During the snowy months, the area boasts some of the region’s best skiing and snowmobiling, while summer is excellent for hiking, golfing, fishing and camping. Fall leaf peeping is some of the best in the country.” Billing itself as “the birthplace of American skiing,” and ranked among the world’s 25 best ski towns by National Geographic in 2012, this village has become a hub of the Mount Washington Valley. A visit to North Conway can bring with it opportunities for skiing, hiking, climbing, dining or snow shoeing, among a diverse roster of outdoor activities. Here’s a snapshot of a day in one of the Granite State’s best-loved ski towns. By bill Burke
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2018- 2019 Winter Season
24 Hours in One of the Nation’s Top Ski Towns 11:30 a.m. The second carriage
3:00 a.m. The sun won’t break over the Whites for a few hours, but Mark Ross-Parent is starting his work day at the Old Village Bakery. “We’re early birds, for sure,” Ross-Parent says of his early mornings at the bakery, which has the reputation of whipping up ‘the best croissants west of Paris.’ “We’ve been here for 16 years and we have a really good following.” By the time the doors open, four hours later, the Old Village Bakery is stocked with fresh breads, pastries, muffins and cinnamon buns.
5:00 a.m. Becca Deschenes rolls out of bed and makes the first call of the day to the mountain manager at the Cranmore Mountain Resort. “I’ll see where we made snow, ask if they’re planning to make snow during the day and where, what trails are groomed and which ones are natural and then I’ll dispatch that report,” Deschenes says. Deschenes is the marketing director at Cranmore, but her lineage there stretches back to her youth. “My dad worked at Cranmore, so my sister and I grew up running around the garage here,” she says. “It’s like a second home to us.”
7:00 a.m. The ski patrol at Cranmore sweeps the mountain one final time to make sure everything is prepped for the day. The last two Snow Cats are pulled off the mountain, trails are opened, others roped off and the area is made ready for its close-up just an hour before first tracks.
ride of the day departs Farm by the River — two miles from downtown North Conway on West Side Road. A private Victorian carriage and horse-drawn sleigh glide along through meadows and mixed maple and evergreen forests along the Saco River, bringing guests past panoramic views of Mount Cranmore, Kearsarge and nine miles of the Moat Mountain Range and by Cathedral and White Horse Ledges.
Noon The doors have been open for 30 minutes at the Moat Mountain Smokehouse and Brewing Co., a 174 seat brewpub and restaurant right in North Conway, and tables are already filling up. Just inside the door, a group of snowboarders heading up from Massachusetts for the day are fueling up with an overflowing plate of Long Horn Nachos and a round of Moat Mountainbrewed beers. Appropriately, the group is most interested in the Cathedral Ledge Lager — a Vienna-style lager on draft, and the Gate Crusher, named for North Conway native and local ski hero Leanne Smith, a two-time Olympian in women’s alpine skiing.
2:00 p.m. Instructors at Bear Notch Ski Touring, in nearby Bartlett, direct a group of beginners — and their fourlegged companions — to the upper fields trail for a mid-afternoon cross-country skiing start. It’s the easiest and best method for warming up (and also close to the warming hut where weary skiers can get some soup and bread) it’s a great way to get to the lower fields, which bring skiers past the Saco River Loops. The trails on the north side of Route 302 are scenic, simple and excellent for first-timers. As for bringing along man’s best friend: well-behaved dogs are welcome on Bear Notch’s entire network of trails.
Visit the Eastern White Mountains
4:00 p.m. The lights lining the ice skating rink in Schouler Park blink to life, illuminating a small group of visitors as they move in and out of the warming hut facing the seasonal arena. Located right on the White Mountain Highway in downtown North Conway Village just in front of the train station, skaters can completely immerse themselves in the quintessential small town winter atmosphere.
5:00 p.m. Guests begin to file into the Red Parka Steakhouse & Pub, in nearby Glen, for some Sunday evening après ski — as generations have before them. The warmth of the pub offers weary, chilled skiers and boarders a welcome respite. Artifacts recalling seasons gone-by cover the walls and ceilings of this area institution, which first opened its doors in 1972. Servers whisk by with entrees that include the Chicken Sink Sandwich (cheese, sautéed mushrooms, onions, bacon, lettuce, tomato, barbecue sauce and guacamole) and the Kitchen Sink Burger (same). Pro tip: grab some extra napkins.
facing special medical needs. Aly Moore will spend much of the next 24-hours ensuring the annual event runs smoothly. She’ll coordinate volunteers, oversee the event’s timeline and if things go smoothly, take a run or two down the mountain herself. “The lift operators and ski patrol volunteer their time for the overnight shifts,” Moore says. “Participants are encouraged to ski the whole time but they can also grab their sleeping bag for a nap in the base lodge. We create a party-like atmosphere with a DJ, games and events through the night so they can come and go as they want.” With the fireworks lighting up the sky above her, Moore touches off the bonfire that will help warm the skiers and riders ending their runs. At last season’s event, more than 300 skiers and snowboarders took part, raising more than $65,000. This year’s event will be held on March 15-19.
8:50 p.m. The grooming team at Crotched Mountain is back on the slopes — prepping trails for Midnight Madness. A number of resorts have night skiing, but Crotched takes it to another level, opening trails to insomniacs and enthusiasts from 9 p.m. to 3 a.m. A live band keeps everyone moving as it grows later, and a slopeside bonfire warms those just finishing their nighttime runs. Midnight From the southern part
9:00 p.m. Fireworks launch over the King Pine Ski Area precisely at 9 p.m., leaving brilliant sparkling trails tracing through the sky. It’s just one part of Cynthia’s Challenge — a 24-hour skia-thon to help raise money for families
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of the state to the northernmost reaches of the White Mountains, New Hampshire’s ski resorts grow quiet — though not entirely so. Snowmaking teams head back up the mountain to fire up their equipment: monitoring, maintaining, grooming and making preparations — all of it designed to welcome skiers and boarders who will arrive in a few short hours looking to lay down first tracks.
NH S k i and S now.c om
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nh ski & snow | 47
by the
numbers ❆ 2.75 2,733 f ee t
The height of Loon Peak, where you’ll travel to board the state’s longest scenic gondola skyride at Loon Mountain.
5180 000
mi n u t es
it will take for the new Bretton Woods eightperson gondola to travel 6,000 feet to Fabyan’s Triple upon its completion this season.
$
24 million
3
Gallons a snowmaking pond at Ragged Mountain can hold after its expansion from 4 million gallons.
MILES
The length of Polecat Trail at Wildcat Mountain Ski Area — the longest ski trail in New Hampshire.
T he major events included in the U.S. Alpine Championships to be hosted by Waterville Valley in March. Events will include the slalom, giant slalom and parallel slalom events. Waterville Valley will also host the U.S. Alpine Championships in 2021.
83
2.1
The distance the Cannon Mountain Aerial Tramway travels to the 4,080foot peak of Cannon Mountain.
feet of snow that fell on New Hampshire during
three major snowstorms last March, leading to an outstanding month of late season skiing and boarding.
48 | nh ski & snow
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2018- 2019 Winter Season
Black Mountain ❆ St. Johnsbury ❆ Attitash
❆ Cannon Mountain Cranmore ❆ North Conway ❆ Loon Lincoln King Pine Ski Area ❆ Waterville Valley ❆
The number of ❆ Dartmouth Skiway years Black Mountain, in Jackson, has Ragged Mountain ❆ welcomed skiers, ❆ Whaleback which installed its first rope tow in 1935.
miles
5
Wildcat ❆ Bretton ❆ Woods
,
The amount of money raised to help families with specialty medical needs during Cynthia’s Challenge at the King Pine Ski Area since it began in 2014. This year’s event will be held March 15-19.
❆ The Balsams
❆ Gunstock
❆ Mount Sunapee Concord ❆ Pats Peak ❆ Crotched Mountain Manchester ❆ Granite Gorge
❆ McIntyre
new!
new!
new!
peakpass.com
CROTCHEDMTN.COM
W I T H E XPA ND E D
HORI ZONS
po ibilities.
CO M E E N D L E S S
YOU ALREADY LOVE OUR SNOW AND GROOMING. NOW YOU’LL LOVE A NEW WAY TO GET THERE. With our new eight-passenger gondola, as well as the state’s largest ski area for cruisers, signature glades, powder stashes, award-winning lodging and exquisite dining, experience an unforgettable winter getaway. Plan your next adventure and discover all of these luxuries along with the best grooming in the East as distinguished by SKI magazine. 8 0 0 -25 8 -0 3 3 0 • BRETTON WOODS .COM
2. 5 HOURS FROM BOSTON • 30 M I N U TES FROM LI N COLN A N D N ORTH CON WAY