BarberNV Issue 28 by Gallus Media

Stag Barber Co

collection shots and ‘kutz 4 key workers’

NEWS

PRODUCTS

F E AT U R E S A P R / M AY 2 0 2 0

EVENTS

E D U CAT I O N

HAIï¿½KRONE

#MYTREASURE

PHOTOGRAPHY

David Arnal

@DAVIDARNALTEAM

MUA

HAIRKRONE @HAIRKRONE

STYLIST

Visori FashionArt

@VISORIFASHIONARTSTUDIO

HAIR

HAIRKRONE @HAIRKRONE

Ben Gillooly

KVLT.HAIR

PHOTOGRAPHY

Lewis Briggs

@LEWIS_BRIGGS_VIDEOGRAPHER

MUA

Natalie Kirk

@NATALIE_KIRK_MUA

HAIR

Ben Gillooly @KVLT.HAIR

MODELS

Tom & Ivan

@TJFAYLOR @LIPPYRUNT

Salones Carlos Valiente

DERIVÃ&#x2030;

PHOTOGRAPHY

Esteban Roca

@ESTEBAN_ROCA_PHOTO

MUA

Nacho Sanz

@NACHOSANZ_MAKEUP

STYLIST

Salon CV

@SALONCARLOSVALIENTE

HAIR

David Pastor of Salones Carlos Valiente @DAVIDPASTOR14

WILLIAM GRAY

PHOTOGRAPHY

Jarred Photography @JARRED_PHOTOGRAPY

HAIR

William & Bianca Gray MUA

Norma Gray STYLIST

Ebony Gray

EDITOR’S COMMENT

When I agreed to take over from Matthew as Editor of BarberNV—the magazine I’ve contributed to sporadically but admired constantly since its inception—no one anticipated that COVID–19 would prod its grubby finger on the <PAUSE> button for the barbering industry. These are challenging times that none of us wished for. There’s nothing ideal about having to shut your doors, not knowing how long the lockdown will last. Rather than hide from this crisis, we’ve faced up to it with a series of features—we have responses from industry bodies, details of government measures and tips on how to preserve your health and happiness. Experienced professionals offer advice on how to come through this ordeal stronger than before. Lockdown is a bore. Some will while away the unwinding hours by gorging on TV box sets or avoiding reality in first–person shooters or football management games. But the most switched–on will do all the things they can’t when they’re cutting hair. They’ll tighten up their businesses and brands so that when they come back—and of course the industry will come back—they’ll do it like gangbusters. This crisis might separate the rock stars from the pretenders. When the doors open again, I’ll trust my hair to a rock star. Try not to despair. The Government has promised to help individuals and businesses through this period. And so they should – barbering and hairdressing contribute massively to the economy and when this is over barbers and hairdressers will once again form the backbone of this country. Let other people lose their heads. If you can keep yours then when we press <PLAY> again you might come out of it all thinking smarter, looking sharper and feeling hungrier than ever. Stay safe and look out for each other.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

16 36 50 62 72

BARBERNV ISSUE 28

Laurence Reid, editor

SMALL TALK Industry updates & from the Fellowship

SHABA 2020 Voting update

ECO Recycling hair extensions

HAIR Neäl & Wølf

24 40

SPECIAL Special feature on COVID–19 crisis

EVENTS Photos from Pro Barbering 2020

INSTAGRAM SHOWCASE

PRODUCT ENVY

BARBER SOCIETY LIVE 2020

BARBERSHOP FOCUS

56 68

Old Town Barbers

SERVICE INSIGHTS Clippers & trimmers

EDUCATION Online learning special

COLUMNS Tony Haresign, Jim Shaw & Chris Foster

Founder | Joanne Reid

Editor | Laurence Reid/Matthew McLaughlin

of BarberNV Magazine and Gallus Print & Digital

Graphic Design | Gary Kwok

Media Ltd. No part of this magazine may be

Assistant Writer | Siobhan Macdonald

reproduced without the permission of the publisher.

Columnists | Chris Foster, Jim Shaw & Tony Haresign Published by | Gallus Print & Digital Media, 1st Floor,

27 Woodside Place, Glasgow G3 7QL

correct at time of printing. Some products

Email | contact@salonnv.co.uk

may not be available in all stores.

Tel | +44 (0) 141 212 5525

THE TRUE ORIGINAL BARBERING ICONS often imitated yet NEVER EQUALLED

+44 (0) 20 7515 0333 takarahairdressing.co.uk

Industry Updates

SMALL TALK EVENTS

BRITAIN’S BEST SHAVE 2020 WITH BLUEBEARDS REVENGE

fter months of sweat, blood and tears, seven exceptionally talented barbers have shaved their way into the live finals of Britain’s Best Shave 2020. Yucel Olmezkaya (Mr Barbers), Jim Dee (Cresswell Barber Co.), Claire Cant (Claark Barbers), Anthony Komodikis (House of Thrix), Fakir Shamsaden (Bobby’s Barbers), Emanuele Chiruzzi (Aveda Men Cutters Yard) and Marian Jarcu (Mojo’s Barbershop) all beat off razor– sharp competition to earn the right to challenge for the prestigious Champion’s Belt in front of an excited live audience at HJ Live London—one of the UK’s largest hair and beauty shows. To make the final cut, these formidable talents impressed the judges—all leading barbers themselves— with their skills across a number of strict disciplines, including shave preparation, razor technique, client aftercare and health and safety. As a result, they are all now honing their blades ahead of the main event on Sunday 29 March. On the day, two–time defending Champion, Enver Yeshilbulut (Kings Barbers Male Grooming), will join the 2020 finalists as he aims to make history by being the

Got an opinion on the news? Don’t keep it to yourself—tweet us @BarberNVMag or tag us on Instagram @barbernvmagazine.

only barber to win the title three years in a row. On Britain’s Best Shave, he said, “This competition is widely regarded as the most prestigious prize in the barbering industry and attracts hundreds of entries every year. “To share the ring with the 2020 finalists will be a huge honour and I’m excited to see how it all unfolds.” Run by the British Barbers’ Association (BBA) and supported by leading men’s grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge, Britain’s Best Shave is now the longest–running competition of its kind. Bradley Wicks, marketing manager for The Bluebeards Revenge, summarised the importance of the competition, “Britain’s Best Shave is about more than just shaving. “It encapsulates the growth of barbering in Britain over the last few years and highlights the high levels of skill that can be seen throughout the trade. “Every year the level of competition improves and it’s because of competitions likes this and the dedicated work of associations such as the BBA. “The Bluebeards Revenge is very proud to support such an iconic competition that celebrates one of the most established and respected trades on the planet.” Trevor Studd, Director of the BBA, added, “The amazing thing about getting to watch the UK’s most talented barbers in this type of competition is seeing them get the recognition they deserve in a live show environment. “Britain’s Best Shave truly brings together the best of the UK, and those that have made it to the finals seem to really cherish the platform they’ve been given. The BBA is extremely proud to share this experience with its community. “From the heats right through to the finals, our family grows and strengthens every year.” Gary Machin, the competition’s Head Judge, concluded, “As a barber, business owner and educator, it excites me on all levels to be involved in this fantastic competition. “It makes me very proud to see first–hand how this event brings together the best wet shavers in Britain. “The participation and standard of work gets better year after year and fills me with such pride that our industry is heading in the right direction, with so many passionate and talented barbers out there. “I’d like to say well done to all the competitors who have taken part this year. And to those that have made it to the finals in London, I wish you good luck! “Remember, preparation is the key to success—from travelling to the event to the model you choose, everything can make or break your ambition to become Britain’s Best Wet Shaving Barber.” IMAGE COURTESY OF BLUEBEARDS REVENGE

EDUCATION

EVENTS

SHABA X VOTING ON HOLD

REUZEL ANNOUNCE LATEST UK SCUMBASSADOR ON UK EDUCATION PLATFORM

euzel has announced musician turned barber, Matthew Fleetwood, as their latest UK Scumbassador. He will be joining Paul Taylor–Clinch as Reuzel UK’s brand new educator. Matt’s passion for barbering started when he began cutting his own hair to save money. From there, he became just as obsessive about executing the perfect haircut as he did about writing songs. Matt decided to enrol on a barbering course at the world–renowned Sid Sottung Academy. In the last four years, he has been delivering education alongside Sid in Nottingham, where he has found his career excel beyond belief. Sharing his knowledge across the globe, Matt has worked as a platform artist at multiple trade shows and London Fashion Week, all while teaching at the academy. His work has been featured in some of the top industry magazines and he has competed in global hair competitions. He is a truly inspirational educator and his skills are adaptable for both aspiring and advanced barbers. After spending time at the Old School Academy in Rotterdam with the famous Schorem barbers, Matt is ready to teach you everything he knows— the Reuzel way! Reuzel say they couldn’t be more excited to have Matt as part of their family: “We know you are going to love his work just as much as we do.” ■ For information on booking a Reuzel course with Matt, please contact Rianne on 01392 365177 or your local Reuzel distributor.

ith the Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards looming, this is the season when hair and beauty professionals would normally be asking clients to shout their praises from the rooftops. At this testing time, however, the organisers have decided to delay the public vote. This will give the industry a chance to overcome these challenges and emerge stronger before the big gala event in the autumn. The yearly event has multiple categories which sees barbers fight it out every year to win, including Best Barber, Best Barber Colourist and Best Barbershop, among other exciting prizes. SHABA holds a public vote every year, so your clients—the people who matter most—get to show their love and support for our industry. Last year saw a record number of votes cast to decide the finalists. The vote will go ahead this year and details will be confirmed in the coming weeks. Once the public vote has taken place, a team of expert judges will get to work, using their collective experience to decide who will make the final cut. They’ll look at the quality and consistency of work and customer service skills, so remember that reputations will not precede you! This year will mark the tenth anniversary of SHABA and the 2020 event promises to be the biggest and most glamorous yet. The night will bring together the industry’s brightest stars to celebrate the best of the best, mingle and party. SHABA founder, Joanne Reid, said, “This virus means 2020 will be a year none of us forget. I hope this will make that feeling of stepping on to the red carpet even more special this year. “We’re working to make sure SHABA X is the event that the wonderful professionals in this industry deserve.” ■ For more information please visit scottishhairandbeautyawards.com. IMAGES COURTESY OF RED HOT PRODUCTS & LWPR

Industry Updates

NASHWHITE MOVES INTO THE NEIGHBOURHOOD

ashwhite have announced the launch of Brotherhood, their new grooming salon in Leamington Spa and managing the new salon will be celebrity stylist, James Alfie Parr. Located within The Neighbourhood, which already features a food market, craft beer brewery and event space, the new salon will be inspired by traditional premium barbering but driven by high– fashion male hairdressing. James Alfie Parr said, “I’m looking forward to working in our cool new space. It’ll be fantastic to be surrounded by the other businesses within The Neighbourhood while keeping clients looking stylish and on– trend when it comes to male grooming, always offering the utmost service and banter.” Brotherhood promises to be part neighbourhood joint, part gentlemen’s club. High–end styling will meet well–crafted architectural details, craft beer and inspiring music playlists. As well as haircuts,

OPENINGS

the salon will offer a specialist beard service—a beard tidy, an Oway beard and face cleanser, a fragranced hot towel and a cut–throat razor reshape. Clients will leave with a beautifully finished beard and advice from ‘The Bros at Brotherhood’ on how to keep it that way. The Brotherhood salon will offer a full range of cutting, colouring, hot shaves and styling services, with bespoke treatments for men. It promises to be the ultimate local destination in Leamington Spa for excellence in trend– led, wearable hair. Co–Founders of Brotherhood, Rob White and Lee Nash–Jones, said, “We were tired of the battle to be the quickest and cheapest in town. That is what led to the creation of Brotherhood. “We want to elevate the experience, to go back to the roots of what male grooming is about—refined service in a unique environment for modern day gents. We’ve spent months researching and testing products, so we have the finest to use in The Brotherhood. In the Oway Men range we have the most sustainable, forward thinking and premium range available in the world right now.”

EVENTS

SCOTTISH HAIR & BARBER SHOW MOVED TO SEPTEMBER The Scottish Hair and Barber Show, originally scheduled for April, will now take place on Sunday 20 and Monday 21 September 2020 at the SEC in Glasgow. The decision was taken to postpone the event in order to protect event staff, exhibitors and visitors during the COVID–19 crisis. The event remains Scotland’s largest hair and barber trade exhibition and will allow hair professionals and students to keep up–to–date with the industry, see inspirational showcases, the latest products, training and equipment. Featuring over 350 leading brands, the show will include a range of live shows and talks from the Barber and Hair Stages. On the Barber Stage, there will be free barber

tutorials hosted by top Scottish barbering talent, while the Hair Stage, sponsored by Medusa Training, will cover a range of demonstrations from styling and cutting to colouring and applying hair extensions. Gary Hackett, managing director of Guild Exhibitions, said, “Scottish Hair & Barber is a must attend event for anyone in the hair and barber industry. Not only can visitors see live demonstrations of products that they may be interested in purchasing, but it also offers plenty of networking opportunities.” ■ Hair and barber trade students and professionals can register for free tickets to the 2020 event by visiting scottishhairandbeautyshow.com.

UPDATES

#THEKNOWLEDGE —OPEN FOR ALL

n order to support the industry during the current coronavirus pandemic, the Fellowship for British Hairdressing is making its online education platform, #THEKNOWLEDGE, free and accessible to everyone. Normally a member benefit, #THEKNOWLEDGE features a library of videos covering Inspiration, Education and Innovation. Videos feature Fellowship members and industry icons, including Karine Jackson, Robert Masciave, Sam Burnett and Robert Eaton. Fellowship President, Ken Picton, said, “As we adjust to a new way of living, we’re providing free access to #THEKNOWLEDGE for everyone. “Although it’s normally a member benefit, we decided it would be the right thing to do to make #THEKNOWLEDGE accessible to everyone over the coming difficult weeks. “Inspiration, education and community are at the heart of what we do at the Fellowship. We want to do everything we can to help the productivity and creativity of our members during this difficult time.” New videos are added to the channel weekly, with more interviews, short films and tutorials to come. The Fellowship is dedicated to supporting its members through this challenging and evolving time, and has more upcoming plans—soon to be announced—to help the industry navigate an uncertain period. ■ Visit the website at fellowshiphair. com/the–knowledge/education to see and learn more.

IMAGES COURTESY OF AJC93 & LWPR

DANNY & CO SHARES HIS SKILLS WITH PROJECT: MEN

anny Robinson from Danny & Co recently spent the day mentoring the Project: Men team. Danny has taken the industry by storm in the short time he’s been in business. Since founding his first salon in 2013, he has gone on to win awards for both business and barbering. He regularly appears on stage at events across the country. Danny is an online sensation too, with 85,000 followers on Instagram, and he counts celebrities amongst his list of clientele – including in the world of Formula 1, where the Danny & Co. team provide an exclusive male grooming outlet for high–profile events on the race track. With a diverse skillset and inspiring determination, Danny was the perfect choice of mentor for the most recent Project: Men training day. Hosted at the Fudge Academy in London, the day saw Danny demonstrating a range of men’s hairdressing and barbering techniques. He also offered advice on recording examples of work on a mobile phone in order to produce dynamic video content and grow a digital presence. One team member, Darren Smith from Review Hairdressing, said, “We gained some amazing insight with Danny on Monday and I left feeling inspired for the journey ahead. “We learned some fantastic new skills to add to the arsenal, covering a lot of fading techniques and helpful touch up techniques. I can’t wait to see who we are working with for April’s session!”

PHOTOGRAPHY

Andy Bell

@ANDYBELLIMAGES

MUA

Stacey Mitchell

@STACEYMITCHELLBEAUTY

STYLIST

Vixy Bell of Stewart Christie & Co.

@STEWARTCHRISTIE_CO

HAIR

Murray McRae of Stag Barber

Murray McRae

THE NAKED & THE DRESSED

@STAGBARBERCO

ON 29 MARCH, STAG BARBER CO. ANNOUNCED ‘KUTZ 4 KEY WORKERS’ ON THEIR INSTAGRAM (@STAGBARBERCO). FOR EVERY DIY HOME HAIRCUT (THERE WILL BE A LOT DURING ISOLATION) THAT THE BARBER’S INSTA IS TAGGED IN, THEY WILL DONATE A FREE HAIRCUT TO A KEY WORKER WHO IS HELPING TO KEEP THE COMMUNITY SAFE AND RUNNING SMOOTHLY. OWNERS OF THE BAD HAIRCUT WILL ALSO GET £5 OFF THEIR NEXT CUT AT STAG BARBER CO. FIND STAG AT 22 LADY LAWSON STREET, EDINBURGH, EH3 9DS

COVID–19 Special

COVID–19: LET’S CUT TO THE CHASE As it stands, the UK is in lockdown due to the coronavirus outbreak and all barbershops and salons have closed. The resulting instability is not unique to the hair and beauty industry—but there are some factors specific to barbershops. There are also things we can do to ensure that barbers and other hair and beauty professionals emerge strongly at the end of this crisis. Many leading figures in the industry have lent their voice to the issue, while some have added action to the talk. Read on to find out what has happened, what has been done and what still needs to be done to help the hair and beauty industry survive.

IMAGE COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK

26 19–MARCH

GOVERNMENT AID TO HELP HAIR INDUSTRY

The government is promising ﬁnancial support—such as business rates relief—for hair and beauty businesses that are struggling through this unprecedented crisis brought on by the coronavirus outbreak, says the NHBF.

he latest government advice is for people to stay away from others and avoid social interaction. This will have a massive and disproportionate impact on service industries like hair and beauty, which rely on face– to–face interaction with clients. RELIEF FOR BUSINESSES

Ian Egerton, NHBF president, said, “The government has promised some welcome relief for businesses that will struggle to survive under the latest measures to control the spread of coronavirus. But speed is of the essence— this additional support needs to be made available right now when hair and beauty salons need the support most. If clients stop coming into salons, hair and

beauty businesses can’t continue paying employees or paying their bills.” PAYING SALARIES

Hilary Hall, NHBF chief executive added, “Wages are by far the biggest cost for salons. Our phones have been ringing off the hook with calls from worried salon owners asking for advice on laying off staff or making redundancies. If the current crisis continues for any length of time, we will need more government support, including rent holidays, suspension of tax payments such as PAYE, VAT or corporation tax and delaying planned increases to the National Living Wage/ National Minimum Wage. Without that support, we will see salons going out of business and many people will be out of work with no means of supporting themselves for a prolonged period of time.” UPDATED

In a crucial development, the Chancellor �ishi Sunak has confirmed on 26 March that self–employed workers will be entitled to many of the same benefits as members of staff, such as grants to cover up to 80% of earnings. Such measures will come as a lifeline to many of those working in the hair and beauty industries.

WHAT THE GOVERNMENT HAS PROMISED: Budget Announcements

For Salons

Update on 20 March 2020

■ Small businesses with fewer than 250 staff will be refunded for sick pay payments for up to two weeks per employee and Statutory Sick Pay will start from day one (instead of day four as per current regulations). ■ Full business rates relief for businesses with a rateable value of £51,000 or less. Businesses that don’t pay business rates because they benefit from small business rates relief will see the £3,000 cash grant announced in last week’s Budget extended to £10,000.

■ Salons of any size exempt from business rates, not just those with a rateable value below £51,000. ■ Three–month mortgage holidays for those in financial difficulty due to coronavirus. ■ Business loans on ‘attractive terms’, including a business interruption loan scheme which will provide loans of up to £5m, interest–free for 6 months, starting as soon as next week.

■ Government grants will cover 80% of the salaries of retained workers, up to £2,500 each month. The scheme will be backdated to the beginning of March and will run for at least three months. ■ Self–employed workers, such as those renting chairs in salons, will be able to access Universal Credit equivalent to Statutory Sick Pay. ■ Workers who rent their homes can benefit from changes to the Local Housing Allowance and the Government has banned evictions for the next three months.

IMAGE COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK

DON’T LET YOUR BUSINESS STAND STILL FOR COVID–19 Salon software specialists Phorest have made a variety of resources available to hair and barber professionals. We asked them to help us put together a guide to surviving and even ﬂourishing during this crisis.

losing a business is never easy but, as the COVID–19 crisis intensifies, salons are temporarily shutting their doors for the sake of their communities. This doesn’t have to be a disaster. When the salon doors are open and the to–do list is never ending, it can be difficult to sit down and take positive business actions that will help in the medium and long term. Here are some steps you can take while the world seems to stand still.

Create a marketing plan With this sudden time on your hands, look to the future and decide on a re–launch strategy for when life gets back to normal.

Review and improve your Google Business page The information on this search engine is how lots of potential new clients will find you. Take the time to review the information that Google has listed for you, spruce up your photos and clean up your online reputation.

Redesign your logo and branding Have you been meaning to give your brand a fresh look and feel? There is no better time. Consider what kind of emotion you want your business to convey. Ask a graphic designer to work with you—support another small business or a self– employed person who may also be struggling through this crisis.

Review and improve your website What’s missing? Does your salon offer online bookings? Is your ‘Meet the Team’ section up to date? Do each of the links to your social media pages still work? So many small business websites fall into disrepair—there’s no excuse now.

Provide online consultations Just because clients can’t come into your salon doesn’t mean you can’t help them. Why not provide online consultations or use social media to share tutorials or product recommendations? Use this time to build customer loyalty—you’ll enjoy the benefits when the doors reopen.

Access online training Since the outbreak started, Phorest has seen a significant uptake of their free interactive training for salon professionals. Phorest clients can avail of free resources to help strengthen management and marketing skills within their businesses. Turn to BarberNV’s Training and Education section this month for a small selection of online courses.

LOVE YOUR

HANDS W

ashing your hands regularly and thoroughly is one of the most important things you can do to safeguard yourself and others in the midst of this pandemic. However, with people now becoming more vigilant —washing and sanitising their hands several times every hour—many are starting to suffer from dry, cracked, red and sore skin. With these safety measures likely to be in place for months to come, the unpleasant side effects shouldn’t be a reason to diminish your efforts. There are, however, steps you can take to minimise the adverse impact on your skin while maintaining high levels of hygiene, particularly if you suffer from contact dermatitis, eczema or psoriasis. BE SOAP SAFE

Soap and water is the gold standard for hand washing when it comes to preventing the spread of infection. Avoid hand washes that contain ingredients such as sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) and triclosan. There are many brands that have fantastic anti–bacterial products but are less harsh on skin—look for hand soaps that are free from synthetic detergents and

Is rigorous handwashing and sanitising in the midst of the coronavirus pandemic making your hands red– raw, dry or sore? Skin healing expert Hanna Sillitoe, offers some hand– saving tips that mean you don’t have to suffer or compromise on hygiene. preservatives. Most natural washes come fortified with nourishing ingredients that replenish our hands to keep skin feeling soothed and soft. PAT, DON’T RUB

Pat your hands dry with a soft cotton towel after washing. Ensure they’re fully dry, but don’t rub the skin, which can break the surface and irritate the skin further. DITCH THE PERFUMED PRODUCTS

While fragranced hand creams and hand washes may smell nice or look pretty in your bathroom cabinet, the priority is removing germs and protecting the skin. So, if your hands are suffering, ditch the perfumed products and opt instead for fragrance–free or a fragrance that’s certified ‘declarable allergen–free’. SANITISER SANITY

According to Public Health England, a hand sanitiser should have a 60% or higher alcohol content to kill viruses effectively. However, frequent and repeated use of hand sanitisers can most definitely aggravate sensitive skin, causing prolonged irritation and chronic dryness. The advice is to use it only when soap and water are not available. USE A NOURISHING CREAM FREE FROM NASTIES

While cheap, thick hand creams seem to offer relief from painfully–chapped skin, petroleum and other chemicals used in cosmetic emollients might actually be making the problem of sore hands worse. Switching to a cream full of naturally nourishing botanicals will help to replace some of the oils that have been stripped through perpetual cleansing, without blocking our skin’s own ability to replenish.

IMAGE COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK

APART/ TOGETHER HAIR & BEAUTY CHARITY LAUNCHES RELIEF FUND

he official industry charity—Hair & Beauty Charity, has launched a relief fund to raise much–needed funds during the coronavirus crisis. With thousands of hair, beauty and barber salons now closed and industry professionals unable to work, there has been a tremendous increase in requests for help from the charity during this time. The charity is working tirelessly to help those who need it most through these unprecedented times. But as they are expecting a major loss of income with several of their fundraising activities and events being cancelled, an emergency relief fund has been set up to emphasise the importance of the charity’s work. The charity is aiming to raise at least £20,000 to support those facing sudden hardship. The Hair & Beauty Charity was established to support hair and beauty professionals who have been affected by illness, disability, bereavement or financial hardship. With over 300 applicants requesting help each year even without the onset of the current crisis, the charity depends on the generous support of the industry to give help to those who need it most, especially in times like this. Hair & Beauty Charity president Samantha Grocutt says, “We are in unprecedented times and the hair, beauty and barbering community is suffering tremendously. “Although the government has now announced support for businesses and self–employed, there is still a big section of our industry who may not be able to get government support, so will seek help from the industry charity. We really need everyone to get behind this campaign, share the message and donate what they can—even a pound will make a difference to someone during this unique predicament. We’re in this together and I hope people can support the charity during this time.” ■ Please give what you can today and together we can get through this diﬃcult time. To donate, please visit justgiving.com/campaign/relieﬀund. IMAGES COURTESY OF ESSENCE PR & LWPR

If there has been one positive while isolating in the coronavirus crisis, it is how those in the hair and beauty industry who are able to have stepped up to help those who will be in need.

NHS HEROES GET GIFT FROM LEICESTER SALON Barrie Stephen Hair is offering vouchers to NHS workers to thank them for their tireless work during the coronavirus pandemic. Though the salons closed their doors on 23 March, Barrie Stephen Hair is keen to continue to support the local community at this difficult time. All NHS staff are welcome to claim a £20 voucher to use at any of their five salons across Leicestershire when the business re–opens. Vouchers will be valid for use until 30 November 2020. For over a decade, Barrie Stephen Hair has helped chronic illness patients by providing hair care visits to lift the spirits of seriously ill patients. Now owner Barrie Stephen believes it is more important than ever to say thank you to those who work on the NHS frontline. “It is an incredibly scary and uncertain time for everyone but we cannot ignore the unwavering commitment and care shown by our NHS staff. “We want to remind our local healthcare heroes how thankful we are for their dedication, as they work tirelessly to keep our community safe and healthy. We hope our gesture offers NHS staff something to look forward to and provides them with a bit of self–care at this difficult time.” The full list of hair services included in the offer can be found at barriestephenhair.co.uk. Vouchers worth £20 can be collected from any Barrie Stephen Hair salon when the business re–opens. Individuals must provide NHS photo ID in order to qualify for the offer. ■ For more information, contact the salons’ customer service line, open Monday–Friday 9am to 6pm, on 0116 402 6222.

GET CERTIFIED WITH BARBICIDE & LASH INC The COVID–19 pandemic has brought many issues to the public consciousness—not least, the efficacy of hygiene procedures in the workplace. Most barbers will be aware of Barbicide, the industry leader in helping to create safe and clean environments in the professional hair and beauty industry. The Barbicide product range—classed as disinfectants, fungicides and virucides—have been found in laboratory tests to be effective against the spread of coronavirus. To this end, Barbicide have teamed up with Lash Inc. to offer barbershop and salon owners the chance to become BARBICIDE® Certified. Completing this free course takes less than an hour and those who complete it will earn a portfolio–ready certificate to demonstrate their dedication to infection control in their business. For more information, visit barbicide.com/certiﬁcation.

Barbicide - No pretender Every client, every time IMAGE COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK

LOOK AFTER

YOURSELF

The issue of mental health and ﬁnding purpose in your everyday life has become even more pertinent during this outbreak, whether you need help or want to help.

WHAT IS #BARBERTALK?

TOM CHAPMAN WANTS MORE #BARBERTALK Created to help clients with mental health issues, the man behind the #BarberTalk initiative has made a rallying cry to add to its ranks to help the potential increase of people in need of help

eune ambassador and Lions Barber Collective founder Tom Chapman took to Twitter with a video, asking for 500 more fellow professionals to sign up and complete the BarberTalk online training. Joining many other prominent hair industry figures in responding to the coronavirus crisis and the problems it will create in the coming months, Tom believes that having more barbers trained to recognise signs of mental health can potentially reach an extra 75,000—many of whom may be struggling in various ways. The video of Tom is one of several, showing members of the Lions Barber Collective conveying the same passionate message, along with the Twitter hashtag #TogetherWeAreStronger. The online awareness program entails watching tutorial videos— many of which are brand new since a recent refresh—and then taking a questionnaire to test your knowledge. Once you pass, you will receive a certificate, your shop will be added to the directory, a social media banner to show that you support mental wellbeing and exclusive access to the BarberTalk Lite Forum to talk to like–minded contemporaries. IMAGES COURTESY OF LIONS BARBER COLLECTIVE

#BarberTalk was created by The Lions Barber Collective, a group of top barbers from across the world who have come together to help raise awareness for the prevention of suicide. The group attend many industry shows and events to help promote initiatives like BarberTalk, which is a training programme to arm barbers with the knowledge of how to spot signs of mental health issues. The initiative takes advantage of the fact that people tend to open up and talk easier to the person tending to their hair. The intention is not to make barbers into counsellors or psychiatrists but to provide a safe, non–judgemental space for people to open up, share and/or ofﬂoad. The BarberTalk training focuses on four important ‘pillars’: 1 RECOGNISE Giving hair professionals the ability to recognise the signs that may indicated mental health problems or issues. 2 ASK Teaching how to deliver the hard–to–ask questions with confidence. 3 LISTEN Possibly most important skill—being able to listen with empathy and without judgement. 4 HELP Helping barbers use the gained knowledge to create a plan, use available resources correctly, and putting it all together to help look after clients and colleagues. As mentioned before, BarberTalk doesn’t expect barbers to become counsellors—simply to enable people to trust them enough, to help them take the first step on the journey to good mental health and make a difference. ■ Enrol and join the pride or donate at thelionsbarbercollective.com/barbertalk–lite.

SURVIVING & THRIVING IN LOCKDOWN BY BARBERNV EDITOR

Laurence Reid

We’re all coming to realise that the lockdown is nothing like the giant bank holiday we hoped it would be. Here are five tips to save you from falling into the abyss.

This is a good time to break bad habits and form new ones. MAKE OR DO SOMETHING YOU’RE PROUD OF

Learn French. Learn the guitar. Grow herbs or vegetables. Grow a beard (now that no one will have to see that awkward patchy phase). Paint a portrait. Write a poem. Build a website. Build a wall. Do whatever you want but make sure it’s brilliant.

KEEP IN TOUCH

BE PRODUCTIVE

Being a barber is about so much more than scissors and clippers. You chose this life because you enjoy talking to people. If isolation is the cure then it might seem worse than the virus. If you can’t nip to the pub or have friends round for dinner, you’ll have to be more creative. Could you arrange regular slots to catch up with different groups of friends online? There’s a plethora of video conferencing apps available now. Groups of three to five work best. Lunch or dinner get–togethers could lead to a lot of messy screens, but why not arrange coffee chats in the afternoon and then a cocktail or craft beer session in the evening?

Perhaps there’s an area of your business you need to work on? Or maybe there’s a job at home you’ve been putting off for months – painting the spare bedroom, putting up a curtain rail or fixing a wonky shelf? Make a list of things you need to achieve and do at least one thing every day. You’ll feel satisfied and centred.

EXERCISE

At the moment, we’re allowed outside to exercise once a day. Most of us should take this opportunity. Other than the need for fresh air and vitamin D, exercise is great for our mental health. Even if the lockdown doesn’t escalate, it’s also a good idea to do some exercise at home. A quick YouTube search returns dozens of celebrity trainers who’ve put together fitness regimes you can do in your living room.

If these weeks or months pass and all we’ve done is stare at big screens and little screens, we truly will have been diminished by this coronavirus.

IMAGE COURTESY OF ANDREW NEEL ON UNSPLASH

MAKE MEMORIES

The chances are you’ll never again have this much time with your kids or loved ones. When the lockdown is over and it’s back to cutting hair five days a week or more, you might regret it if you don’t make the best of this opportunity. There will be tension while you’re locked up together and there will be times when you’ll want to kill them. That’s all the more reason to plan some quality, structured time together. Involve the ones you love in the other activities suggested here.

BARBER SOCIETY LIVE 2020 CANCELLED I

n a sombre announcement post on the BarberSociety Live Facebook page, the organisers of Europe’s biggest barbering event officially cancelled the 5th anniversary edition of the Amsterdam get–together. Translated from their native Dutch, the post read:

To our great regret, we must announce that BarberSociety Live 2020 has been cancelled. To prevent the spread of the corona virus, the Dutch government announced a ban on all meetings and events until 1 June 2020 We continue to talk to our sponsors, participating brands and BEARDsterdam about the organisation of BarberSociety Live 2021. We ask some patience to go through the consequences of this drastic measure. We will ensure that more information is announced in the coming time about the cancellation of our event and all the consequences for our visitors. We look forward to seeing and speaking to everyone at BarberSociety Live again in the future. We are one big barber family and together we get through this. Stay healthy! Team BarberSociety This is certainly not a situation which is unique to BSL, as the past couple of weeks has seen a slew of cancelled events across all walks of life because of the pandemic. Rest assured, however, that the Netherland’s biggest barber event will be back with an almighty bang in 2021. ■ Keep an eye on the BarberSociety Live Facebook page for updates and information.

I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H

SHABA X VOTING ON HOLD With the Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards looming, this is the season when hair and beauty professionals would normally be asking clients to shout their praises from the rooftops. At this testing time, however, the organisers have decided to delay the public vote. This will give the industry a chance to overcome these challenges and emerge stronger before the big gala event in the autumn. SHABA holds a public vote every year, so your clients—the people who matter most—get to show their love and support for our industry. Last year saw a record number of votes cast to decide the finalists. The vote will go ahead this year and details will be confirmed in the coming weeks. Once the public vote has taken place, a team of expert judges will get to work, using their collective experience to decide who will make the final cut. They’ll look at the quality and consistency of work and customer service skills, so remember that reputations will not precede you! This year will mark the tenth anniversary of SHABA and the 2020 edition promises to be the biggest and most glamorous yet. The night will bring together the industry’s brightest stars to celebrate the best of the best, mingle and party.

E TH VE SA

SHABA founder, Joanne Reid, said, “This virus means 2020 will be a year none of us forget. I hope this will make that feeling of stepping on to the red carpet even more special this year. “We’re working to make sure SHABA X is the event that the wonderful professionals in this industry deserve.”

1 TE DA

Visit scottishhairandbeautyawards.com for more information.

IN G

T VO S PO ON TP ED

COLIN PETRIE OF HARD GRIND, DUNDEE WITH AWARD FOR BEST BARBERSHOP 2019

NEW DATES ANNOUNCED Now to be held on Sunday 20th & Monday 21st September 2020

If you have already registered for your ticket to the 2020 event, they will be automatically transferred to the new date line. Your ticket will arrive by post or email 7-10 days before the event.

Pro Barbering

23â&#x20AC;&#x201C;24 FEBRUARY 2020

G N I R E B R A B PRO VE 2020 LI

Manchester Central, MANCHESTER

Images from the exciting Pro Barbering Stage, featuring some of the most exciting hair professionals in the UK

KADE BURGESS & GEMMA WILLOCKâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;SMITH

SIMON SHAW PRESENTS WAHL ARTISTIC TEAM

WAHL ARTISTIC TEAM IMAGES COURTESY OF DANNY PATON PHOTOGRAPHY

ANDREA RAYMOND @WAHL ARTISTIC TEAM

ANDY DAWSON @MENSPIRE

MICHAEL TOMINAY

KYLE ROSS

MENSPIRE

ANIA PYZIOLEK & JP MCDONAGH

JP MCDONAGH IMAGES COURTESY OF DANNY PATON PHOTOGRAPHY

JOSEPH LANZANTE

TONY HARESIGN

JOSEPH LANZANTE

ANDY DAWSON

GEMMA WILLOCKâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;SMITH

IMAGES COURTESY OF DANNY PATON PHOTOGRAPHY

SIMON SHAW

JOANNE REID & SIMON SHAW MICHAEL TOMINAY

HAIR

NATHAN ROBB & KYLE ROSS MENSPIRE

NATHAN ROBB, JOANNE REID & KYLE ROSS

PHOTOGRAPHY

Andy Kruczek

@ANDYKRUCZEK

MUA

Katy Bird

@KATYBIRDMAKEUP

STYLIST/DIRECTOR

Chris Foster

@HAIRBYCHRISFOSTER

HAIR

Paul Devlin

@PAULD3VLINCR3ATIV3BARB3R

A collection by Paul Devlin

WASTELAND

HIGH END COOL BY THE SEA OLD TOWN BARBERS, MARGATE

LOCATION 13 Market Place, MARGATE, CT9 1EN

Callum Francis has traded working in some of London’s classiest barbers to open his own place and bring his modern–classic styling to one of the country’s most on–the–up towns.

argate’s fortunes have risen and fallen like the Big Wheel in its Dreamland amusement park. The town was the lookout point for Turner’s turbulent seascapes and the real–life scene of Tracey Emin’s messy bed. It was Britain’s grandest seaside resort in the 19th century but the later half of the 1900s saw it degenerate into a seedy backdrop for the deprived and forgotten. For ten years or more, however, artists of all kinds, creatives and trendsetters have flocked there from the trendy boroughs of North London and beyond to make it one of the most vibrant and exciting towns in the country. One of them is Callum Francis, whose Old Town Barbers promises

high–end modern barbering and great service. As the name suggests, the shop is nestled in the lanes of the town’s trendy Old Town area and claims to be its finest contemporary barber shop. “I’ve always loved Margate,” he says. “It’s a great town, with a Shoreditch–vibe going on. The only thing missing was a cool barbershop—now it’s got that. “I’ve lived in Margate on and off since I was 21, but I worked in London. The commute was pretty painful, especially in the cold and on a motorbike, but there was nowhere I wanted to work down here. Then this shop came up and it seemed like the perfect opportunity.” Callum initially worked as a hairdresser but the industry did not always appeal to him. “When I was about 14 at school in Ireland, we had to do work experience but I couldn’t find anywhere to do mine. Then one day Mam came home and said she’d found me somewhere—at the hairdressers. I thought, No way! What will my mates think?

EQUIPMENT & INTERIORS

“However, I started and I quickly fell in love with the hair industry. Eventually I retrained in men’s barbering and I haven’t looked back.” Since then, he’s worked as a Senior Barber at Murdock in Soho and at Off Cut Barbers in Camberwell, recently featured in these pages with regular step–by–steps. He’s appeared on stage at Salon International and is a member of the Uppercut Deluxe Collective. In almost 15 years in the industry, Callum has witnessed big changes. “I think, with the abundance of education programmes now available and the massive influx of new barbers on the scene, everyone has had to up their game. The quality of work has gone through the roof, which is a great thing. With this influx of new talent to the industry and the high street, it might be difficult for a new business like Old Town Barbers to stand apart from the crowd. The secret, Callum says, is in the high–end service. “There are lots of barbers around—that’s a fact—but

what we deliver is a quality product and a level of service that is second to none. “A high–end barber needs to combine the best service with a high level of skillsets. When gentlemen come to Old Town they need to feel comfortable and looked after and they need to leave looking better than they ever have. And they get to drink beer and whiskey while they wait—what more could you want? “Our prices might be higher than some other places in the area but we’re still affordable for most. We get a lot of DFLs (Down From Londons) but we also get a lot of local customers from all demographic groups. “Anyone who cares about their appearance and the service they receive comes to Old Town.”

Eco

HOW YOU CAN HELP SAVE THE WAVES

Hair booms help absorb oil spills

ECO & SUSTAINABILITY

itching cast–off hair extensions could be considered one of the biggest wastages of any salon. When you or clients dispose of used extensions, they simply pile up in landfills, but what if you could put them to good use? What if you could use them to save the environment? To solve this harmful beautification byproduct, popular hair extension brand, Additional Lengths, has teamed up with Matter of Trust to support their Clean Wave campaign. Through the Clean Wave campaign you can donate hair, fur and fleece to keep storm drains and waterways clear. As one of the leading suppliers and manufacturers of hair extensions in the UK, Additional Lengths sells over four tons of raw hair every year, which will, eventually, end up in the bin once the client has moved on to a new set. Additional Lengths and Remi Cachet founder, Victoria Lynch said, “We acknowledge this is a huge waste and considered the big effect on the environment, so we looked for an ethical solution to mindfully reduce our waste and benefit the environment.” The extension giant’s partnership with Matter of Trust came about because many stylists were asking for ways to recycle excess hair. “It seemed such a waste to simply throw the hair in the bin when the old extensions were removed.” There were options for the brand to reuse the hair. However, there are restrictions placed on the types of hair accepted and the brand wanted to open their policy up to as many people as possible—ensuring everyone can do

their bit for the environment. When Additional Lengths were researching the best ways to recycle hair, the Matter of Trust team offered the brand a perfect solution. The solution? Victoria Lynch told us, “Unlike loose hair clippings, the extension sets returned need to be bound together. To aid the recycling process, the hair should come bound— using a hair tie is fine—into a neat pile when it is sent through the post. “The extensions are then returned to Matter of Trust, where they are processed and turned into hair mats and booms.” These hair constructs are then used to combat oil spills in oceans and rivers where the once discarded hair will collect debris and absorb oil. This process helps minimise the impact of oil spills and disposed of extension on eco–systems. The hair mats were used on street drains in a recent ground oil spill in San Francisco, USA.

IMAGE COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK & MATTER OF TRUST

GET INVOLVED! and do your bit for the environment Want to get your salon involved with this innovative scheme? All salons can save their excess and any brand of extensions are accepted into the recycling scheme. Victoria Lynch adds, “They do not have to be ones that were initially sold by Additional Lengths or Remi Cachet. As long as the hair is collected together and secured in a neat bundle with a hair tie, we will accept it.” If you want to repurpose your unwanted hair extensions, you can send them to the Additional Lengths head office. From there, extensions are regularly shipped to the US where Matter of Trust recycles the hair. Additional Lengths and Matter of Trust will accept any brand of extensions—they simply ask that you tie the bundle together at the top and post them to the address below: HAIR RECYCLING ADDITIONAL LENGTHS MAXWELL’S CORNER 1–3 NORTON ROAD STOCKTON ON TEES UNITED KINGDOM TS18 2BW

INSTAGRAM SHOWCASE

A quick glance at the work of social mediaâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;savvy creatives across the country. Tag @barbernvmagazine for a chance to feature your work in our next issue.

Service Insights

To be successful as a barber, having the right tools is only part of the battle. Hair clippers and trimmers are crucial to every barbershop’s arsenal but more important than having the tools, is knowing how to use them. Fades have become one of the most popular requests in barbershops across the world, while the more adventurous will ask their barber for a ‘hair tattoo’—intricate patterns in a fade. We speak to two prominent barbers for their insights on using clippers and trimmers to find success in the barbering industry.

IMAGES FROM SHUTTERSTOCK & EDGAR CHAPARRO ON UNSPLASH

SERVICES

CLIPPERS AND TRIMMERS

FADES JAMES ALFIE PARR (@ALFIE_PARR_HAIR), CELEBRITY SESSION STYLIST & MANAGER OF BROTHERHOOD, NASHWHITE’S NEW SALON IN LEAMINGTON SPA

ometimes subtle, sometimes striking, a fade is essentially a next-level short back and sides. It’s actually a form of tapering the hair, but the hair is cut drastically lower than a regular tapered haircut. The hair is gradually and subtly tapered from the nape of the neck upwards. The fade can be a hard cut to master as it involves blending hair lengths with a clippers and trimmers, scissors, or often both, to give the hair at the back and sides of the head a smooth, ‘faded’ effect.

PHOTOS: WORK BY JAMES ALFIE PARR

crop has become one of the most popular haircuts today. The undercut rocked by Tommy Shelby can appear quite harsh and certainly isn’t for everyone, so get your client to consider toning it down with a fade. Create a bald fade on the back and sides with a short, choppy texture on top and a cropped fringe. I like to use a texturising spray to create movement and added effect. The only down side with this look is that fades grow out very quickly due to the scalp exposure, meaning most people need to visit their grooming salon on average every two weeks to maintain the look. ADDING A BIT OF POMP

SMART & NATURAL

A clean, classic fade is always a winner and very popular with clients at Brotherhood. It’s sharp, but not severe and suits most face shapes. It’s a good look for someone who needs a smarter haircut while still looking natural. It can also be used as the basis for several different styles up top, from a neat scissor crop to longer, more dramatic styles. DOWN TO SKIN

The bald fade is basically a modern version of short back and sides. In a regular fade, this might be from a grade two up to a grade five, however, in a bald fade, the hair goes right down to skin level. The technique creates a high-contrast look where the longer hair further up the head gradually fades down until it disappears entirely. However, the point at which this change in length occurs depends on which type of bald fade your client goes for. It’s worth remembering that bald fade styles aren’t necessarily mutually exclusive—it’s entirely possible to have a low bald taper fade or even a high bald drop fade. Mix them up and find what works best for your client, creating a bespoke fade for them. PEAKY BLINDERS

There are so many different fade variations. A client asking for a bald fade on the back and sides is only half the haircut puzzle. The other comes from what’s on top of your client’s head. One of my favourites to create is a bald fade with textured crop—thanks to Peaky Blinders, the textured

A clean, classic fade is always a winner

Another timeless classic, and favourite of mine, is a fade paired with Pompadour. A throwback cut that never seems to lose its appeal, it can be easily adapted to suit clients who know what is right for their face shape. As for the top, you want a pompadour style, leaving the fringe area longer than the crown, and slice in for added texture. When it comes to creating the finished look, you’ll need a blow dryer, some sea salt spray. For a wet look, use a pomade to create shine and hold.

HAIR ART KADE BURGESS A.K.A KADEKUT (@KADEKUT88) BBA PATTERN MASTER 2015 & 2016, GLOBAL AMBASSADOR FOR HEAD & SHOULDERS, MVRCK UK BARBER TEAM MEMBER & CO–OWNER OF IMAGE BARBER, BEDFORD. INTERVIEW BY GARY KWOK PHOTOS: KADE’S AWARD– WINNING WORK FROM 2015 & 2016

SO KADE, WHAT DO YOU ACTUALLY CALL IT? I’VE HEARD OF IT REFERRED TO AS A ‘HAIR TATTOO’ AND OTHERS CALL IT A ‘HAIR DESIGN’...

I call it hair patterns or hair art. I consider myself a ‘scalp artist’!

WHERE DID YOU BEGIN BARBERING AND DID YOU GO INTO IT THINKING THAT YOU WOULD WANT TO DO HAIR PATTERNS? OR WAS THAT SOMETHING THAT CAME LATER?

I started barbering [at the age of 16] at a shop in Bedford called Kriss Kut. It was an Afro–Caribbean men’s barbershop—I learned to do hair patterns straight in with the cut–throat razor before I could even fade! It’s one of the main reasons I got into barbering as I loved art at school.

SO IT’S LIKE DRAWING? IN THE SENSE THAT, IF I WAS A GOOD ILLUSTRATOR AND DECENT WITH CLIPPERS, COULD I DO IT? It’s an art. So imagine you’re drawing on a chalkboard. Now imagine you have texture in there, and you can paint on there—and put it all together. What do you get?

Exactly, I have no idea! Just...if you have ‘art in your head’, you can create anything, with the scalp being the canvas!

DOES IT WORK JUST AS WELL ON ALL TYPES OF HAIR? FOR INSTANCE, I’M CHINESE AND I’VE ALMOST ALWAYS BEEN TOLD THE WAY MY HAIR GROWS OUT SO STRAIGHT, IT’S MORE DIFFICULT TO CUT...

Asian and Chinese people have very good hair for hair patterns and art, as it is usually dark, thick and strong. Latin American hair is also really good to work on for patterns. So yes, hair type does matter—people with thin or light hair, you have no hope of seeing most designs on, never mind portraits and logos!

WHERE DO YOU GET YOUR INSPIRATION FOR YOUR DESIGNS? AND ARE THERE ANY HAIR PATTERN BARBERS WHO ARE INSPIRING TO YOU?

Inspiration comes from everywhere! Films, music, hip–hop, graffiti, logos, branding...the list goes on. And a lot of barbers are inspiring for my designs, to name a few—Rob the Original, Los Cut It, Eric Cheeks, Marcus Hatch, Jesse Lima and Kenny Duncan.

ARE HAIR DESIGN CLIENTS ONE–OFF, TRY–IT–JUST–ONCE CUSTOMERS, OR DO YOU OFTEN GET REPEAT CLIENTS WHO WANT DIFFERENT DESIGNS EACH TIME THEY COME SEE YOU?

It depends on the occasion! Some do it for festivals and concerts, while there are some who get it every week. Although I do more at hair shows and competitions now [such as Kade’s recent Pro Barbering stage appearance in Manchester at Pro Hair Live 2020].

DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE OUT OF ALL THE PATTERNS YOU’VE DONE IN YOUR CAREER? AND HAS THERE BEEN ANY THAT HAVE WENT HORRIBLY WRONG?

PHOTOS: MORE OF KADE’S WORK, INCLUDING HIS FAVOURITE CANE ROW (BOTTOM LEFT); & KADE’S STINT ON STAGE AT PRO HAIR 2020

My favourite pattern is the cane row effect—just because it also works as an illusion! But I have many favourite designs and collections, so it’s hard to choose. And as for going wrong—I stick to freestyle patterns as it’s hard to mess them up. No matter what you do, it looks like it’s supposed to look like that!

FOR ASPIRING HAIR PATTERN BARBERS—IF YOU WERE TAKING ON AN APPRENTICE, DO YOU LOOK FOR CERTAIN QUALITIES TO TELL YOU WHETHER THEY COULD DO IT OR NOT? AND DO YOU HAVE ANY TIPS FOR ANYONE LOOKING TO MAKE A CAREER OF HAIR PATTERNS?

Patterns have to come naturally, and you need to have a natural flow with the clippers and razors—you can’t force these things. Everyone has strong and weak points. You can be weak at patterns but still be able to work on it [and improve] but if it’s just not for you, just focus on what you’re good at. There are lots of services to make money in barbering. Know your worth in this industry. Remember—talent shouldn’t be free.

DO YOU THINK HAIR PATTERNS ARE GOING TO CONTINUE TO BE POPULAR, AND PATTERN SPECIALISTS WILL EMERGE?

I consider myself a pattern specialist, as it’s my favourite thing to do! I hope it gets more popular in the years to come— everyone’s gassed off skin fades curently, but there’s always room for designs!

Patterns have to come naturally, and you need to have a natural flow with the clippers and razorsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t force these things.

CREATING TOUCHABLE TEXTURE IN MEN’S HAIR Creating long–lasting, touchable texture when styling men’s hair can be difﬁcult at times. There are many things to consider— hair type, length, cut and thickness, to name a few—but picking the right products is key for a texturised style on any head of hair. Neil Capstick, founder of Neäl & Wølf, shares his top tips for achieving a textured, multidimensional look.

PREPARE

Starting with clean, towel–dried hair is the first step to achieving texture in men’s hair. When using shampoo and/or conditioner, choose a product that both cleans and conditions the hair and ensure you massage the product thoroughly to nourish the scalp. PRODUCT

Whether you are working with straight, wavy, curly or coiled hair, choosing the right product is crucial to achieving the desired look. If you’re looking for a matte texture, then pastes and clays help create this definition while providing maximum hold. If a lighter, moisturised look is desired, cream and lotion–based products help lift the hair while creating shine. PREEN

When applying the product, work the product between your palms to warm its styling fibres. Begin with a pea– sized amount and apply evenly from root to tip. If you’re styling longer hair, apply the product from mid–length down to the ends to achieve a stylish, textured look.

01 STYLE SHAPING CREAM

Created by experts, the 01 STYLE is a ﬂexible cream designed to give hair the definition it needs and deserves. Its unique blend of ingredients creates a light condition base lock that forms shape, adds texture and leaves a healthy shine to hair. £13.75

02 CREATE MATTIFYING PASTE

The unique blend of Kaolin, Shea Butter and Beeswax creates a workable paste, which is particularly effective for lighter hair as it doesn’t darken or dull. The blend was specifically designed to give a ﬂexible, medium hold and matte appearance, making it ideal for textured messy styles in short or medium length hair. £13.75

03 DEFINE MOULDING CLAY

Combining natural Beeswax, Cocoa Butter and Kaolin, the 03 DEFINE helps to create an effortless style with touchable texture. The pliable clay is perfect for reworking styles, leaving a textured and matte finish. £13.75

05 SHAPE PLIABLE PASTE

Lets you style your hair with confidence. Specially formulated, this texturing paste gives a strong hold that improves definition and is perfect for shorter styles. £13.75 HAIR

Neäl & Wølf’s Men’s Collection offers a range of shampoos, styling products and treatments, so men can indulge in luxury every day. All products are sulphate–free, paraben–free, DEA– free, TEA–free and cruelty–free.

Product Envy

E C I O NV CH

This month’s best products includes a great value BaByliss Dryer, the perfect roller from Uppercut Deluxe and another beauty from Andis.

BABYLISS PRO | Keratin Lustre Dryer Black Shimmer

This BaByliss PRO 2300W dryer has a long–life AC motor and powerful airflow for high–speed drying. Keratin–infused ceramic combined with frizz–controlling ionic conditioners deliver long–lasting smoothness and flawless shine.

£39.99 | SALON–SERVICES.COM THE BLUEBEARDS Barber Spray Bottle

REVENGE

The new 400ml Barber Spray Bottle by The Bluebeards Revenge is a must– have accessory for hair professionals and houseplants alike. The new bottle has been specially designed with busy barbershops in mind and features a whole host of tattoo inspired hand–drawn, waterproof, flash art illustrations.

£3.99 | BLUEBEARDS–REVENGE.CO.UK “These imaginative drawings pay homage to our brand’s nautical roots while balancing current tattoo trends and the lighthearted vibe of British barbershops.”—ALEX ROGERS, HEAD OF DESIGN AT THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE

UPPERCUT DELUXE | Quiﬀ Roller

The Uppercut Deluxe Quiff Roller is perfect to use with a hairdryer to set your hair in place, before adding your favourite Uppercut Deluxe product to finish your style. This great product features ball– tipped bristles spaced for air circulation and prevent pulling and a rubber non– slip grip for easier glide and better control. The ideal tool for adding lift or creating the perfect pompadour.

£10.00 | UPPERCUTDELUXE.COM

MEN–Ü | Matt ‘Skin Refresh’ Gel

Anti–shine and fragrance free toner gel and sold as a concentrate with up to 120 applications. Men–ü’s gel removes and controls excess oil that contributes to blocked pores and breakouts while toning and tightening the skin. It also soothes and calms skin and is great after shaving and helps overcome ingrown hairs. Contains willow bark extract that has been used for centuries as a mild analgesic, antiseptic and anti–inflammatory.

£14.95–£15.95 | MEN–U.COM

ANDIS | Cordless usPro Li Clipper

Andis’ limited edition colourways have been a huge hit among barbers and the usPro Li Clipper is set to be no different. But these limited designs are not a case of style over substance—quite the opposite, in fact. Known and appreciated for its lightweight, balanced design this clipper packs a powerful rotary motor for high– speed cutting performance behind the chair. The usPro Li makes light work of every hair type and style, wet or dry, and is well established amongst barbers and stylists worldwide.

£96.95 | ANDIS.COM

SAM WALL | On Point Paste

Part of the last three pieces of the Let’s ‘Av It range, the On Point Paste gives you both hold and texture. Adding great definition, control and a natural finish; complimented by the mature scent of lemon and bergamot.

£12.50 | SAMWALL.CO.UK

NEÄL & WØLF | Style Shaping Cream

This styling cream is designed to give hair the definition it deserves. Created by experts, this light conditioning base locks in moisture and its unique blend of ingredients creates shape, adds texture and leaves a healthy shine.

£13.75 | NEALANDWOLF.COM

GOSTYLER | Cordless Hairdryer

£99.99 | BUYGOSTYLER.COM

PRODUCTS

The GoStyler is a complete hair styling system all in one place. The Base offers space for conveniently storing your device and the three additional accessories. Meanwhile the Concentrator provides a focused source of air flow for more targeted drying. The Piks helps to achieve additional volume and body, used as an aid to smooth over curly hair. Whereas the Diffuser accessory is again another addition to help lift the hair to enhance the natural curl, body and volume of your hair. Offering both a dual heat and cool mode for the most effective sleek drying, and Nano–Tourmaline technology releases negative ions as you dry your hair to provide the most soft, shiny healthy looking hair.

Paul Mac

AMERICANA

PHOTOGRAPHY

Kest

@KEST_VISUAL_ARTIST

STYLIST

Paul Mac

@PAULMACSPECIAL

HAIR

Paul Mac Special @PAULMACSPECIAL

IMAGES COURTESY OF

FPA

@FIVEPOINTALLIANCE

Education & Training

(SOCIAL) DISTANCE LEARNING

With social distancing and ‘stay at home’ being the general advice while we endure this pandemic, what’s the best use of your time? Not being at work doesn’t have to mean your career coming to a halt—there are lots of online resources for you to develop so that when you return to work, you are a step ahead. We introduce some of them to you in our special edition of education and training.

IMAGES COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK

70 MHDPro.com is an online learning resource from the USA. Its courses are accredited by the University of South Carolina. Upon completion of the courses, you will receive a certiﬁcate to recognise your gained skills, and Continual Professional Development (CPD) credits/hours to count towards any future career development path you choose.

MEN’S TAPERED & FADED HAIRCUTS COLLECTION

MEN’S CUTS: SHORT BACK & SIDES INSTRUCTORS: Stacey Broughton & Dale Ted Watkins LEVEL

DURATION

Foundation

2 hrs 33 mins

10 hours CPD

£78.00 +VAT

CREDITS EARNED

COST

This online barbering course with lessons taught by Dale Ted Watkins and Stacey Broughton features a range of classic men’s short back and sides cuts. Explore barbering techniques including clipper cutting, scissor over comb and clipper over comb. Are you just starting out in the industry? Or perhaps you’re an experienced hairdresser who’d like to expand your salon services and build a male clientele? Then this foundation–level course is perfect for you. ■ Visit mhdpro.com/collections/build– skills–short–back–sides to preview.

QUIFF IT!

DURATION

Intermediate

2 hrs 51 mins

10 hours CPD

£99.95 +VAT

CREDITS EARNED

LEVEL

DURATION

Intermediate

2 hrs 23 mins

10 hours CPD

£99.95 +VAT

CREDITS EARNED

COST

This collection teaches you how to create a variety of men’s tapered and faded haircuts with salon–friendly barbering techniques taught by the world’s best barbers, including Ivan Rodrigues and Jason Verhaeghe of Amsterdam’s New York Barbershop, Gary Woo from China and Stelios Chondros from the UK. Featuring a range of haircuts including low fades, mid fades and high fades, combined with modern styles such as the blowout fade, sometimes known as the Brooklyn blowout or Brooklyn fade, these men’s haircuts perfectly marry traditional barbering techniques with modern hairstyling. ■ Visit mhdpro.com/collections/men–s– tapered–and–faded–haircuts–collection.

RETRO MEN’S HAIRCUTS INSTRUCTORS: Tim Hartley, Sid Sottung & Dale Ted Watkins

INSTRUCTORS: Sarah Astley & Dale Ted Watkins LEVEL

INSTRUCTORS: NY Barbershop, Gary Woo & Stelios Chondros

COST

Men’s quiffed hairstyles never go out of fashion. From the resurgence of the pompadour to vintage D.A.s and flat–tops and every variation in between, there’s never been a better time to work on your quiff haircut skills. In this intermediate online barbering course we bring you five men’s hairstyles from two of the most respected barbers and men’s hairdressing experts in the UK, Dale Ted Watkins and Sarah Astley. ■ Visit mhdpro.com/collections/quiﬀ–it to preview.

LEVEL

DURATION

Intermediate

2 hrs 41 mins

10 hours CPD

£99.95 +VAT

CREDITS EARNED

COST

This collection teaches you how to create traditional men’s retro haircuts with a modern twist. The five lessons – inspired by Elvis, polished heritage, the Ton Up boys and classic military looks – will help you develop and combine your traditional barbering techniques to create modern popular hairstyles inspired by the past. Instructing barbers include Tim Hartley, who spent 30 years at Vidal Sassoon culminating in international creative director and star barber educators Sid Sottung and Dale Ted Watkins. ■ Visit mhdpro.com/collections/retro– men–s–haircuts to preview.

BARBERING COURSES

Rapunzel Hair Academy is one of the UK’s premier dedicated distance learning hair and beauty course providers. Their courses are approved by the International Institute for Complementary Therapists and certiﬁcations are recognised across the world. They currently run two courses which are relevant to the barbering industry.

ADVANCED BARBERING

SALON MANAGEMENT

LEVEL

All levels

IICT–accredited and free training kit (includes training head, scissors, combs, clips and a Wahl starter clippers set) COST

All levels

CREDITS EARNED

IICT certiﬁcation

£399.00 (on sale, usually £499.00)

Enhance your skills & increase your earning potential by becoming a barber with our Fast Track IICT accredited Advanced Barbering Course. Cutting & styling mens hair and trendy beards is big business these days, so why not make sure you have the barbering skills you need to succeed. This course covers many areas, from barbering history, health and safety, infestations and infections, hair growth, client consultation, scalp massage and various cutting techniques. Sign up, wait for your training kit to be posted out to you and you’re ready to go. ■ Visit www.rapunzelhairacademy. co.uk/barbering–courses to preview.

Despite the name, course is relevant to running a barbershop LEVEL

COST

CREDITS EARNED

IICT certiﬁcation

£149.00 (on sale, usually £299.00)

This online IICT–accredited qualification has been designed with the support of industry experts and salon managers. Develop the essential skills you need to start your own business that runs smoothly. A salon management course will set you apart from your competition and give you all the tools to start building a customer base and an amazing business. This distance learning programme explores topics including planning for business, marketing principles, managing the business and keeping on top of finances, personnel and business promotion. You’ll develop the confidence to put together a business plan and grow your company. ■ Visit www.rapunzelhairacademy. co.uk/salon–management–course.

. NOT ACCREDITED BUT MORE OPTIONS TO LEARN ONLINE..

DAVEDIGGS BARBERACADEMY.COM

REGAL GENTLEMAN

Beardbrand

Internationally–acclaimed Dave Diggs offers a comprehensive course comprising online tutorials on different styles. While some videos are free to watch, a paid subscription allows you access to a huge selection of videos.

A barbershop founded by best friends Liam Jennings and Josh Blackburn, the brand has branched out into hair products and a popular YouTube channel with a constant stream of tutorial videos on how to cut the best barbershop hairstyles.

An American grooming, lifestyle and self–improvement brand, Beardbrand offer products for men and boasts a YouTube channel with 1.5million subscribers, even more video views and loads of tutorial content.

DAVEDIGGSBARBERACADEMY.COM

REGALGENTLEMAN.COM

IMAGE COURTESY OF RAPUNZEL

BEARDBRAND.COM & BEARDBRAND ON YOUTUBE

TONY HARESIGN on

TONY LIGHTS UP PRO BARBERING STAGE BarberNV welcomes new columnist, grand master barber Tony Haresign, as he talks about his brilliant stint in Manchester on the Pro Barbering stage at Pro Hair Live. Having been an avid reader of BarberNV since the very first issue—in fact, I was at the launch party—I feel I’ve grown over the last five years alongside the magazine. I am so thankful to be given a new platform here to share my words of wisdom and hope I am able to add some value in the many issues to come. My first mission is to give you the inside track on what it is really like taking part in one of the UK’s biggest hair shows. I was asked back in November if I would present at Pro Hair Live in Manchester, on the Pro Barbering Stage, powered by Wahl. I duly accepted and when I found out which other professionals would be sharing their knowledge, I couldn’t wait. I was given the opening spot on both days. This can be difficult because a lot of people are flying around, buying all the must–have products before they run out. I knew I’d have to put on a good show to hold the audience. My first step was to find models. I like to use professional models—ideally someone I have worked with before—as this is an expensive and very important part of the show. The guys at Maverick Models in Manchester were happy to oblige, sending over images of different guys with longer hair, which was the focus of the show. With the boys booked, it was on to preparing everything else—music, images,

the clothes and styling. The theme of my presentation was ‘The Secret Of the Three Cs—Consultation, Cutting and Collections. I wanted to give real value to the people who took the time to watch—something they could take back to their salons or barbershops and implement the next day. The presentation included a demonstration of my consultation process, some unique cutting techniques and tips on creating a collection of hair images to adorn barbershop walls. Next, I had to prepare the content and images for the slide show. One of the most difficult jobs was choosing the music. I would need music for my entrance and, more importantly, for the models to walk or pose to. I think this really makes the show complete. These tasks take longer than you might think, especially creating content for the screen. I wanted each element to enhance the presentation, not overpower it. I can sometimes have too much to say in too little time. It required some savage editing to express the key points. After some discussion with the models, the outfits pretty much took care of themselves. The boys sent a few images of their ideas and we shortlisted outfits to try on the day. We also needed the all– important ‘old boiler suit’ to conceal the outfits until the big reveal. With pretty much everything in place,

I was given the opening spot on both days. This can be difficult because a lot of people are flying around, buying all the must– have products before they run out. I knew I’d have to put on a good show to hold the audience.

accommodation and travel booked, it was the calm before the storm. I headed down to Manchester on the Saturday (day before the start of the show) afternoon, to be well–rested and ready for the show. I like to get to on–site early to make sure all the passes are in order and to check details with the sound and lighting guys. I was glad I did this because it came to light that there was no power on the stage. The problem was quickly solved but it pays to be prepared. And so it was down to the execution of the presentation. People always ask me, “Do you get nervous?” The simple answer is yes, but it’s how you harness that feeling for the greater good. I use some simple neuro–linguistic programming techniques to help me focus and stay IMAGE COURTESY OF DANNY PATON PHOTOGRAPHY

calm, even when things go wrong. I was extremely happy with the way it went on both days. Lots of people took the time to listen to the information and get involved in the Q&A session. I hope they found it useful and that they can use some of the ideas in their salons or barbershops in the coming weeks. It’s hard work, but sharing your knowledge, especially at large shows or exhibitions, can be an amazing experience. As I write, we are in the midst of the coronavirus outbreak and it looks unlikely that I will be taking to the stage any time soon. However, I will be offering online education, covering Basic Barbering, Razor Cutting, Advanced Cutting, Shaving, Business and Mentoring, so keep your eye on my Instagram @hairbytonyharesign and website hairbytonyharesign.com for updates on how to get on board and work with me through this difficult time. Stay safe, look after your families and see you in the next issue.

JIM SHAW

FACE FACTS—NOT EVERY STYLE FITS Jim Shaw, the reigning British Hairdressing Awards Men’s Hairdresser of the Year along with Daisy Carter, talks us through advising clients on the right styles for their faces. When opting for any new hairstyle, we need to take into consideration the shape of the client’s face. Along with their lifestyle and personality, this is one of the most important factors in deciding which styles will work for them and which will not. Certain styles look better on specific face shapes but many can be tailored to compliment a client’s natural features. Clients with oval face shapes are lucky because as they tend to suit most hairstyles. Those with circular face shapes and a rounder chin may want to take their hair cut up a little higher, above the chin, to create the illusion of angles and allow the face to appear slimmer. Square faces, or heart-shaped faces with a more predominant chin, are quite the opposite. They look great with longer hair because it places emphasis on the jawline, giving the illusion of a stronger chin. I have identified some of the most common hairstyles for men. I discuss how they work for specific face shapes. POMPADOURS, QUIFFS AND HAIRSTYLES WITH SHORTER SIDES AND LENGTH ON TOP

These are so popular with men right now. They require height and tend to be worn very groomed and slicked back for a neat and precise look. These styles are particularly great to recommend to those with triangular, round, heart or square

face shapes because, with the sense of volume created, they can balance out the face and jaw lines and draw attraction upwards towards the hair. SIDE PARTINGS

Another trend of the season and a great way to instantly change a client’s look. The beauty of this hairstyle is that it works to really enhance the client’s features. This works particularly well on those with square and diamond face shapes and helps to create softer angles. FRINGES

These are best avoided by clients with oval and round face shapes because they cover the forehead and, in turn, can make the face look even rounder. A fringe can work wonders for a client with an oblong face, however, drawing attention away from the length and allowing the face to appear wider. THE BUZZ CUT

This hair trend has become popular again in recent years. It’s great for clients who need a low maintenance style, however, it certainly does not suit all face shapes. This look is best suited to those with oval face shapes but also works for those with a square face and allows facial features to really pop.

THERE ARE THINGS WE CAN’T CONTROL ...IS THAT TRUE? CHRIS FOSTER

The current crisis is beyond anything most of us have experienced in our lifetimes. Chris Foster talks about turning it into opportunity. This has been a topic of conversation floating around people’s lips for a few weeks now. I wanted to take a moment to acknowledge the feelings swirling around the global pandemic, COVID–19 coronavirus. I wanted to share some perspective on how we’re responding to this moment in our own business and in the broader hairdressing community. I want to acknowledge our shared truth—it’s a stressful time. There’s uncertainty. There’s loss. There’s fear about the future. These feelings remind me, personally, of the recession of 2008. However, now we have a health crisis, quarantine, empty supermarket shelves and social distancing. I wish to share a hopeful point of view— even during moments of adversity, we can find stability in the things we can control and relief in letting go of the things we can’t. There are always ways to embrace the future and create opportunities. I see this crisis as a great opportunity for barbers who have invested in their message and profile. What the crisis has taught me is that you cannot depend on one skill set to have a secure income. Even when I thought that the skill of barbering was a foolproof way of acquiring a reliable and steady income; clearly this is not the case. Barbershops up and down the UK are currently struggling to stay open because of social isolation brought on by

the fear of catching the virus. Back in 2008 I was working at a barbershop in Mayfair and I distinctly remember having a client run from my chair mid–haircut because of the crash of the financial markets. Most of my clients back then worked within the financial services industry. The 2008 crash was devastating for the majority of my clients and as a result had a knock–on effect for me financially. I felt completely exposed because I had fewer clients coming in. Everyone was feeling the pinch. To make matters worse I had a young family and the pressure that financial crisis caused us was extremely painful. There are two ways to look at a crisis—we could face it in fear and deep uncertainty of the future, or we can look at the future and see great opportunity. It was that insecurity that led me to think about capitalising on my knowledge so that it would not happen again. So in the midst of a global recession I decided to not get frustrated or upset or blame anyone else. Instead, I focused on creating a product that I could sell online, which was a barbering app. The very first barbering training app in the UK launched in 2011. Why am I telling you this? I want to let you know that there are so many opportunities out there. Even through these dark times for businesses we can find new ways to capitalise and

serve more people. Remember, in moments of uncertainty people are looking for clarity, but you have to be ready. I want to share a resource that I created and launched in February this year. I created an academy to help hair professionals find their voice and market their skills whilst providing a secondary avenue of income, all from their knowledge—called the Elite Profile Academy (EPA). EPA is an online resource where hair professionals find useful information, advice, insights, resources and inspiration building your industry profile. Timing is never good in a crisis. But as creatives we can find new ways of adding value to people’s lives. I want to encourage you not to fear but to continue to create and continue to serve people. We will make it through these uncertain times together. Let’s focus on our families, our friends, our neighbours, and our communities. Please keep safe, control what you can, and continue to look toward to the future. IMAGE COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK

THE ELITE PROFILE ACADEMY For career building advice please visit eliteproﬁleacademy.com. Sign up to be enrolled in our upcoming programmes and in the meantime, download the free resources to help you achieve your dreams. You can also follow me on Instagram @hairbychrisfoster.

Andrew Smith

ESTABLISHED

PHOTOGRAPHY

Philip Veitch

@VEITCH.PHOTOGRAPHY

MUA

Louise Lerego @LOUISELEREGO

STYLIST

Lewis Robert Cameron @LRCFASHIONSTYLIST

HAIR

Andrew Smith

@ANDREWSMITHHAIRSTYLIST

HAIR ASSISTANT

CC McNamee @CCDOESHAIR