Blow City Jay Birmingham x Fallon Carberry AESTHETICS
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BEAUTY
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NAILS
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MARCH/APRIL
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HAIRDRESSING
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EDUCATION
# IT’S A BIG DEAL! YA BEAUTY.CLUB
L AU NCHING IN 2020
The Idenitty Collection | Cos Sakkas
PHOTOGRAPHY
Jack Eames @JACKEAMESPHOTO MUA
Lan Nguyen-Grealis @LANSLONDON STYLING
Veronica Greenhill @GREENHILLVERONICA HAIR
Cos Sakkas of TONI&GUY, London @COSSAKKAS
Bläzzed | Chrystofer Benson
PHOTOGRAPHY
John Rawson @JOHNRAWSON MUA
Danielle Donahue @DAMNHELL STYLIST
Hannah Leigh @MRSHANNAHPATRICIA HAIR & CREATIVE DIRECTION
Chrystofer Benson @CBENSONHAIR PRODUCTION
CBC Productions @HAIRCBC
Diosas De Egipto Picasso Awards Finalist ‘Best Styling’, ‘Avant Garde’ & ‘Andalusian Hairdressing Awards’ | Juanmy Medialdea
PHOTOGRAPHY
David Arnal @DAVIDARNALTEAM MUA
DyD & Sergio Peña Castillo @DYD @SERGIOCASTILLO HAIR & STYLING
Juanmy Medialdea @JUANMY_MEDIALDEA HAIR ASSISTANT
Jessica del Arbol @JESSICADELARBOL PRODUCTS
Schwarzkopf Professional @SCHWARZKOPFPROFESSIONAL
Collection by | Altin Ismaili
PHOTOGRAPHY
Jamie Blanshard @JAMIEBLANSHARDPHOTO MUA
Katie Moore @KATIEMOOREMUA STYLING
Bruno Marc @BRUNOMARC10 HAIR
Altin Ismaili of Marc Antoni @ALTINISMAILI
Moonlight | Angelo Seminara
PHOTOGRAPHY
AndrewO’Toole @ANDREWOTOOLESTUDIOS MUA
Laura Dominique @LAURADOMINI2 STYLING
Niccolo Torelli @NIICCOTORELLI HAIR
Angelo Seminara @ANGELOSEMINARA_HAIR
Grandeur | Adrian Gutierrez
PHOTOGRAPHY
Damien Carney @DAMIENCARNEYPRO MUA
Joanne Gair @JOANNEGAIR STYLIST
Nikkos Kefalas @NIKKOSKEFALAS HAIR
Adrian Gutierrez @ADRIAN.GUTIERREZ.1884
Curl Rebellion | Tristan Eves
PHOTOGRAPHY
Jamie Blanshard @JAMIEBLANSHARDPHOTO MUA
Ellen Bridger @ELLENBRIDGERMAKEUPARTIST FASHION
Christopher Heeney @CHRISTOPHERHEENEY HAIR
Tristan Eves @TRISTANEVESHAIR
A collection by Pickles & Co
PHOTOGRAPHY
Nicole Jopek @NICJOPEK MUA
Collette Thorpe @COLLETTE_THORPE HAIR & STYLIST
Loren Goodswen @HAIRBYLOREN
Editor’s Comment We’re thrilled to have Blow Colour Bar founder Fallon Carberry and celebrity stylist, Jay Birmingham as our cover stars as we took a backstage look at the creation of Blows new Celebrity Blowdry Menu featuring Helen Flanagan, Jilly Isabella and Polly Marchant. Wedding season is approaching and can be one of the busiest seasons for everyone in the hair and beauty industry. So, we’ve asked Jennifer Linton of Linton & Mac and Sharon Malcolm for their expert guides on the trends to watch out for and wonderful step-by-step guides. We also talked to Robert Kirby about his incredible Bernadette collection and how he is trying to use hair to break the stigmas surrounding dementia and memorialise his mum. What do you do when bad colour happens to good people? When a client comes to you, unhappy with the colour service from another salon or as the result of a patchy home job? Fixing a colour job gone wrong can be frustrating and—quite frankly—daunting. But don’t worry, we spoke to industry experts to get their top colour correcting tips. What do you do with old extensions after your client moves on to a new set? Additional Lengths and Remi Cachet have teamed up with Matter of Trust to help save the waves. As always this is the tip of the iceberg of another packed edition of SalonNV. We love to hear from our readers. If you have any successes, news, product launches or collections you would like to share with us, send an email to joannereid@salonnv.co.uk or contact@salonnv.co.uk.
JR
Joanne Reid
NewsNV
22
the salon
27
the fellowship
Latest updates from the hair & beauty industry
The Fellowship of British Hairdressing with news about their members
SocialNV
ExpertNV
BusinessNV
42
52
A look at the exciting colours of 2020 by Bad Apple Hair’s Steph Peckmore
Special Feature
46
Do bridal hair right with award–winning Spanish hairdresser Juanmy Medialgea
50
30 32
wedding hair step–by–step
colour correction
Help from experts on solving hair colour problems
hair removal
A look at the advances made by laser hair removal
wedding trends 2020
Experts give their predictions on wedding trends for the coming year
38
colour trend predictions
wedding nails step–by–step
Nail expert Jaz Moger with a SalonNV–exclusive look
EcoNV
68
recyling used hair extensions
Did you know used hair can be used to clear up oil spillages at sea?
blow me baby
Behind–the–scenes look at the successes of Blow City collaborators Fallon Carberry & Jay Birmingham
58
rainbow room congress 2020
News from the latest awards ceremony held by one of Scotland’s most successful salon groups
62
salon spotlight
64
medusa training
Salon brand ANTI with a new space in London
Scottish Hair Show stalwarts Medusa wants to help your business
72
collections
Robert Kirby talks about his career and how to create a great hair collection
TrainingNV
76
Tracey Devine–Smith
Star session stylist and trainer introduces the exciting developments in her stylist training programme
ProductNV
80 Products and Furniture
Editor’s Choice, Hair, Other
OpinionNV
86
Columns by Emil McMahon,
Gemma Willock–Smith, Josie Smith & Michael Moran
Founder & Editor–in–Chief | Joanne Reid
Copyright | All work in this publication is copyright of SalonNV Magazine and Gallus
Lead Writer | Matthew McLaughlin
Print & Digital Media Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the
Graphic Design | Gary Kwok
permission of the publisher.
Assistant Writer | Kenzi Devine
© Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may
Columnists | Emil McMahon, Gemma Willock–Smith, Josie Smith & Michael Moran
not be available in all stores.
Published by | Gallus Print & Digital Media, 27 Woodside Place, Glasgow G3 7QL
Thanks to | The Fellowship of British Hairdressing, Redmane, AJC 93, Hypermarketing
Email | contact@salonnv.co.uk
UK, LWPR, Seven Publicity, Essence PR, Trace Publicity, Hollicom, Summersby Media, I
Tel | +44 (0) 141 212 5525
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HAIR EXTENSIONS
BEFORE
AFTER
THE FINALISTS
Alex Stanford (2018 winner) Spinx Extension Lounge Angeline Lynch Angeline Lynch (pictured below) Hair Extensions Ashleigh Stewart Ashleight Stewart Hair
Remi Cachet announce Image Of The Year Remi Cachet’s annual search for their Image of the Year with their stylists was conducted on their social media channels. Stylists were asked to search through their photo streams and select one image that best represented their extension work. The entrants were then whittled down to just 12 finalists by the brand’s founder, Victoria Lynch, before going up for a public vote on Facebook. Victoria Lynch said, “Each year it gets harder to choose and this year we saw big waves and more colour work that really ticked the boxes for me. “There was a good variety in the entries, and you could really see the character of each stylist’s work. “The competition really allows us to help fly a flag for all the amazing creativity of the extensionists.” With nearly 5,000 votes cast, Angeline Lynch was crowned as the winner for Remi Cachet Image of the Year 2019. Angeline said, “This was my first year entering competition and with the start of a new year, I was wanting to focus on my business and promotion more, it seemed like the perfect opportunity to enter. “Picking an image was hard, but I really love the colour and volume my client now has and I’m happy with the final styling. “I was so happy to be shortlisted as a finalist to start with, never mind winning it! I was over the moon when it was announced.”
IMAGES COURTESY OF HYPERMARKETING UK
Asya Cannur Hair by Asya Cannur Helen Richardson The Butterfly Effect Joanne Fox Jo Fox Hair Kayleigh Clarke Kayleigh Jane Extensions Judi Selkirk Phoenix Hair Extensions Raminta Doskute Flawless Extensions Rebecca Dixon Rebecca Dixon Hairdressing Sarah White SW Hair Tasha Calvey The Projects Salon
ANGELINE LYNCH
IN BRIEF
STYLING PRODUCTS
bebop raises nearly £2000 for Australia Last month, award-winning London salon, bebop raised £1,970 to help those affected by the devastating bushfires raging in Australia. Salon owners, Pont Smith and Chloe Herve pulled out all the stops and knew their clients were eager to support the appeal in aid of people in desperate need on the other side of the world. bebop is supported by R+Co who offered each client booked into the salon, one of their exciting new CONCENTRATE treatments, worth £25 each. Pont said, “It’s almost impossible to imagine what so many people in Australia are going through, many of them losing everything as the relentless blazes break out all around them. “Losing their homes and businesses as well as the emotional trauma they are experiencing must be absolutely devastating and it’s tragic that already lives have been lost and the toll on wildlife has been dreadful. “We are fortunate enough to be able to help, climate change is real!” All proceeds went to WIRES (Wildlife Emergency Fund and Salvation Army Emergency Response)— to donate please do so via PayPal.me/bebopldn. • For more info, visit beboplondon.co.uk.
Trailblazer apprenticeship approved As part of the government’s apprenticeship reforms, the Level 3 Trailblazer standards and assessment plan for the Advanced and Creative Hair Professional Apprenticeships have finally been approved by the Institute for Apprenticeships and Technical Education (IfATE) with a maximum funding cap of £5,000. Wendy Cummings, the chair of the Trailblazer Apprenticeship Steering Group for the hair professionals, said, “We now have a world-class apprenticeship standard and End Point Assessment Plan, that really raises the bar and allows an apprentice to demonstrate their professional skills, knowledge flair and creativity in hairdressing. “Unfortunately, despite our best efforts and a request for a review we have funding band that employers and training providers to struggle to achieve this.” Caroline Larissey, director of quality and standards at the NHBF and steering group member added, “It has been a challenging and prolonged process completing these standards and assessment plans, with constant changes in direction and requirements from the IfATE, but we stuck to our guns and we have a standard that is right for our industry.” • For more information on the Trailblazer Apprenticeships to date, visit the NHBF Education hub nhf.info/education.
IMAGES COURTESY OF ESSENCE PR
Fudge Professional launch restyle Fudge Professional recently held a party for its styling range relaunch. Alongside its iconic lineup of styling products, the launch include four new exciting products—Blow Dry Aqua Primer, Aqua Shine Serum, Curl Revolution Mist and Matte Hed Mouldable. The event offered an intimate evening so guests could mingle, learn about and experience Fudge Professional, capture and share brand moments, win exceptional prizes, dance the night away and even have a complimentary piercing as the ultimate souvenir of the launch. On the night, guests were treated to 15 minutes of fame hairstyling sessions, while Fudge Professional global ambassador, Jonathan Andrew was on hand to talk through the range’s restyle and the new launches. The venue had a social media photo booth with the brand’s tagline #FudgeTheRules and was the perfect chance for guests to create their own shareable content. A Spin2Win game offered exclusive prizes such as hair colour appointments with the Queen of Colour, Tracy Hayes, cut and style appointments with Jonathan Andrew, products and more. Ensuring the right vibe for the night, Sink the Pink was on the decks and Metal Morphosis provided ear piercings for guests. The spirit of the launch embodied Fudge Professional’s cool but edgy brand personality. Jonathan Andrew said, “The relaunched Style collection makes navigating the range more logical; hold factors are simplified from one to 10 and made prominent on-pack; cult favourites like Shaper are now in easy salon friendly flip-open lids and latest innovations feature high-performance properties, innovative textures and ground-breaking ingredients.”
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AESTHETICS/SPA
La Rue Verte launches first Scottish CBD spa Blythswood Square Hotel, one of Glasgow’s most beloved spas, has partnered up with luxury CBD skincare range, La Rue Verte to launch Scotland’s first CBD spa. La Rue Verte’s ‘soul-soothing’ CBD massages and facial treatments use a variety of techniques, supplemented with high-quality CBD products. The hemp-based oils used in the treatments are non-psychoactive and have grown in popularity in recent years for use for pain relief and relaxation. LRV products offer a three-pronged skincare approach—it is anti-ageing, anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory. La Rue Verte products are perfect for all skin types, whether the customer has sensitive and dry or acne-prone skin there is a plan for everyone. Alongside the facial and massage treatments, you can also explore the La Rue Verte story through guided meditation— exploring relaxation and sensory techniques to support a calm and focused mind whilst experiencing the bliss of an LRV CBD bath bomb. Emma O’Neil of La Rue Verte said, “We are delighted to be bringing such a pioneering CBD range and bringing the La Rue Verte treatments to the Spa at Blythswood Square. “Our training academy have trained the team in the Spa at Blythswood Square with the world’s first CIBTAC cosmetology course, where we have built trust, education and the ability to underpin our products and treatments with integrity. “La Rue Verte is the result of three years of intense research and development in the CBD industry and we are really excited to have developed it further through the treatments which are now on offer at the spa.” • For more information or to book a visit, call on 0141 248 8888 or go to kimptonblythswoodsquare.com.
Inaugural Salon Summit Elevate Roadshow held The first Salon Summit Elevate Roadshow, sponsored by Eleven Australia Scotland and iSalon Software, took place in Edinburgh at the luxurious Scotsman Picture House.
Opening her salon with zero financial support and no team, against the odds, Leighanne now works with some of the UK’s most influential reality stars and Instagram models. The audience heard Leighanne’s tips and tricks for creating killer content for your salons Instagram as she styled Instagram influencer, Remi Jayne Cox’s hair on stage. Following this live demonstration was one half of the renowned Scottish salon, Linton and Mac Jenn Linton.
WhatSalon introduced their brand and three iconic speakers
With numerous industry awards under her belt and regular
from the hairdressing industry—Jo Robertson, education
backstage work at LFW, Jenn shared her story from first-time
director at Wonderful Brands, Leighanne Regan, owner of
salon owner to balancing this with her extracurricular work
Renu Hair Studio and Jenn Linton, owner of Linton and Mac.
out with the salon floor, whilst still effectively managing a
WhatSalon head of sales, Adam Turner welcomed the intimate audience of 45 guests to the stunning cinema theatre and outlined the afternoon. With each of the speakers covering diverse topics, they
team of 30 in her salon. A question and answer session was opened—guests were asked to move from the theatre to the reception area in which the WhatSalon Awards People’s Choice images were displayed.
provided guests with an insight into creating a strong brand
WhatSalon recently launched their first photographic
identity and how to market this effectively, using social media
awards with five categories and from 100 entries, 16 finalist
to elevate the work they do.
images were selected.
Adam introduced education expert, Jo Robertson to the
These were presented at the Roadshow and guests were
stage. Previously the education director for ghd and now an
asked to vote for their favourite image—the winner of this
independent business consultant and education director at
category will be announced at the Salon Summit event in
Wonderful Brands, Jo captivated the audience with her key
Birmingham on 7 June 2020.
message to strategise what you do and why you do it.
• Tickets are currently available to purchase at the
Then Adam rejoined to introduce Instagram hairdressing sensation, Leighanne Regan.
IMAGES COURTESY OF HOLLICOM
early bird rate of £75 per ticket by visiting the website salonsummit.co.uk.
CHARITY
Hair & Beauty Charity announce new elected president The Hair & Beauty Charity has announced its elected president for 2020, as Samantha Grocutt, who continues the role after her co-presidency with outgoing co-president, Philip Sharp of ASP. Samantha Grocutt, managing director of Essence PR, has served on the charity committee for over twelve years, both in its previous guises as The Hairdressers’ Charity and The Hair and Beauty Benevolent. Samantha has been instrumental in implementing and overseeing many successful fundraising initiatives and her passion for the charity, combined with an envious black book of contacts, has been a considerable benefit during her tenure. Established in 1853, the charity, under various names, was set up to support hair and beauty professionals who have been affected by illness, disability, bereavement or financial hardship. With over 300 applicants requesting help each year, the charity relies on the support of the professional hair and beauty industry to provide for those who need it most. New president, Samantha Grocutt said, “It’s a huge privilege to be continuing my role as president for 2020. “Our industry is tremendously giving and it’s important to remember that not everyone is in a fortunate position. “The past two years have been non-stop in continuing to build awareness of the charity, progressing the organisation to incorporate the wider beauty industry, raise much-needed funds to help others, and encourage people to remember us when selecting their charities of choice. “2020 is a big year for the Hair & Beauty Charity—we need to raise at least £175,000 to support those in need and we are in desperate need of support from companies and individuals who are working in the professional hair and beauty sector. “Whether that’s through becoming a sponsor, hosting fundraising events, attending our events, or simply just telling your colleagues that we are there to help—no matter what level you can do to support us, I’d love to hear and discuss further.” • For more information and to support the Hair & Beauty Charity, go to hairandbeautycharity.org. IMAGES COURTESY OF ESSENCE PR & AJC93
BUSINESS SOLUTIONS
iSalon announce the launch of new Online Consultation Forms on their Command Centre to maximise the experience salons provide for new and existing clients. This form allows iSalon salons to generate and complete a beauty disclaimer for each individual client in order to easily access their information and status within the salon journey—for example this form would highlight if a client requires a patch test. When a new client visits a salon for the first time, this new launch to the iSalon software system will be invaluable. The stylist or beauty therapist will be able to take the client through the disclaimer to confirm things such as any allergies that the salon must be aware of, any special requirements, the date of their patch test and much more. This new addition to iSalon’s Command Centre will also be fully customisable for each salon to personalise this and tailor to sit in line with their brand. Salons will be able to upload their logo and fully customise this page to strengthen their brand image and ensure compliance with all clients. Furthermore, the client will be asked to sign this and the completed disclaimer will then be stored in a password–protected portal to ensure security and peace of mind for salon and client. iSalon marketing manager, Alice Smithson said, “This addition to the Command Centre Module of the iSalon Software is ground– breaking and will transform the way salons keep up–to–date with client requirements and mandatory regulations such as patch tests.” • For more information about iSalon and what it can do for your business, go to isalonsoftware.co.uk.
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NewsNV
Sebastian Professional Cult Team 2020/21 revealed A group of six creative hairdressers have been chosen to form the new Sebastian Professional Cult Team for 2020/21. This dynamic and inspiring team had to go through an audition process which began with an online entry. For the first time ever, the applications were open to all salons who stock Sebastian products. Following the initial online application round, 24 applicants were then selected to attend a live audition in one of the four Wella studios. As you would expect from an initiative pioneered by such an iconic styling range, the emphasis was all about styling at its finest—and styling at its finest is exactly what was delivered. Sebastian Professional UK brand ambassador, Dom Capel said, “The Cult Team is a fully– engaging opportunity for any hair stylist to further their experience as a Sebastian artist and truly immerse themselves into the creative world of Sebastian Professional Education. “We look to provide experiences and environments that will not only allow the team to explore their creativity but also have the opportunity to network with like–minded creative talents who are emerging in the fashion and creative industries.” Each finalist had two hours to create a truly show-stopping look, demonstrating their styling expertise and hairdressing mastery. In addition, they were judged on their presentation skills and potential platform ability.
Now the search for the 2020/21 Cult Team is complete, this group of budding stars will experience an incredible 18-month mentoring programme. This will enable each member to experience different types of hairdressing education to further their careers. They can expect a minimum of 10 days of mentoring from industry leaders, covering topics such as photographic skills, wig–making, media training, creative hairdressing skills, platform hairdressing insights, product knowledge, presentation guidance and session hairdressing. CULT TEAM 2020/21 The programme will Sam Millard, include opportunities to Avant Garde represent the brand live on Hannah Grogan, stage and spend coveted and Foundation valuable time with some of Luigi Altomonte, Sebastian’s leading artists and Fratelli Hair industry mentors. Gemma Noon, The Vinery Hair Salon With an exciting and Samantha March, action-packed schedule lined Twist Hair & Beauty up, it is most definitely a case Stephanie Gallagher, of ‘watch this space’ for the Wonderland future hairdressing stars of tomorrow embarking on their Cult Team journey.
The premier Scottish beauty trade show returns this April
the latest trends. Scottish Hair & Beauty 2020 also sees the return of the Hair Stage, sponsored by Medusa Training, showcasing Scottish hairdressing talent.
Guild Exhibitions Ltd is pleased to announce the return
The SEC is ideally located with various transport links
of Scottish Hair & Beauty, Scotland’s largest beauty trade
servicing the venue, including an on-site train station, making
exhibition, taking place at the SEC, Glasgow on Sunday 19 and
it easily accessible for attendees.
Monday 20 April. Open to both beauty professionals and students, the event showcases the latest products, training and equipment to stay ahead of the competition. In addition to over 350 leading brands to browse, the show
Announcing the show’s return, Gary Hackett, managing director of Guild Exhibitions, said, “Scottish Hair & Beauty is a must attend event for anyone in the beauty industry. “Not only can visitors see live demonstrations of products that they may be interested in purchasing, but it also offers
will feature a range of inspiring demonstrations and talks,
plenty of networking opportunities.”
including the Trends Masterclass Stage. On this stage, visitors
• Beauty
can enjoy free makeup and nail tutorials hosted by the top
register for free tickets to the 2020 event by visiting
MUAs, nail techs, academies and influencers, demonstrating
scottishhairandbeautyshow.com.
IMAGES COURTESY OF SUMMERSBY MEDIA
trade
students
and
professionals
can
The Fellowship Diaries The F.A.M.E. Team has kicked off 2020 with its first mentoring session from project leader, Jamie Stevens. The team were reunited at Jamie’s London salon—the first gathering since F.A.M.E. was announced at the Fellowship Luncheon and Awards in December. For their debut session, the team were given an overview of the year—the guest mentors they would meet, the planned events and the areas they’ll be working on. Starting their experience, Jamie spent time working with the team on presentation skills and team-building exercises to help the team find out more about each other. Team member Casey Coleman said, “As soon as I got there, it was like seeing a bunch of mates I hadn’t seen for a little while.
I think we would all agree that we felt much more of a unit and are so excited to showcase what we’re going to do this year. We already have a few tricks up our sleeves and we can’t wait to show everybody what it means to be part of the F.A.M.E. Team.” Casey continued, “Sometimes, when somebody as big as Jamie is in the same room as you, it can be daunting, but he made it very clear that he is just human, has the same worries as we do and still feels nervous before going on stage and I think that really helped us all.”
In their first session, the PROJECT: X Team met with new project leader, Angelo Vallillo to begin a year of education and opportunity at the Wella Academy in London. The team shared their hopes and goals, while Angelo laid out plans for the year ahead—including the incredible guest mentors, social media guidance and sessions on presentation. Later, in the afternoon, the team worked in pairs to create a doll head look showcasing their strengths—the looks were then presented to the rest of the team. “I’ve already learnt how to take aspects from a creative style and make it salon friendly. That’s going to help me give my clients flare and something different walking out the salon. The team is amazing and so welcoming—I feel very lucky to work alongside such a talented team of people,” said Olivia Miles. Cc McNamee agreed, “Angelo has taken a slightly different approach by teaching us the entrepreneurial aspect of our industry as well as hair, which is priceless knowledge I think all of us can appreciate and learn from. It’s not always shared or spoken about enough and building yourself in such a fast-growing industry is not
The 2020 PROJECT: Colour Team also embarked on its first day, with project leader Paul Dennison and guest mentor, Fanette from Mazella & Partners. After spending the morning getting to know each other and learning more about what to expect in the year ahead, the team enjoyed a demonstration of panel colouring in a fringe, which they then replicated on
easy. I’m so excited to get started with the rest of the year. Angelo has completely pushed our expectations with the mentors he has managed to get on board and really wants to push us to do well for ourselves.”
doll heads. “This was a great technique,” Scott Musgrove, of the Cutting Company said. “It’s something I’ll take back with me to the salon, using variations of section sizes to create a striking panel piece.” Project leader, Paul Dennison said, “I wanted the team to study not just how to colour hair, but why. It was a perfect start to what’s shaping up to be an amazing year. Thanks to Mazella & Partners and Goldwell for giving their time and space.”
IMAGES COURTESY OF THE FELLOWSHIP OF BRITISH HAIRDRESSING
Sweet | Juan Ayoso
PHOTOGRAPHY
Antonio Luna @ANTONIOLUNAPHOTO MUA
Jose Merina @JOSE.MERINA STYLIST
Tuca Roman @TUCAROMAN HAIR
Juan Ayoso of Gou Estilistas @JUANAAYOSO78
Special | Wedding
Wedding Hair Step–by–Step Award–winning Spanish hairdresser Juanmy Medialdea has two great passions—creative hairdressing and bridal styles. These are the two major focus points which he has built his incredible career upon and this passion for the nuptial world and equally for training hairdressing professionals, has led him to create The Medialdea Method. Juanmy gives SalonNV a peek into his process and technique to share with our readers with this amazing step–by–step for the Buoyant Braid.
Buoyant Braid
by Juanmy Medialdea
Bridal hair expert & winner of five Picasso Awards
01
Prepare the hair by using a curling iron with a 38mm diameter to create subtle waves throughout the hair. Brush and apply a little shine—you are ready to start working.
02
Separate the hair at the front, take a section from the crown and tie it in a ponytail with a hair tie, twist it in on itself and destructure it a bit.
03
Take a section from the right side, make a braid and pull it behind so it sits on top of the hair tie in the ponytail. Open up the braid a little.
04
Perform the previous step on the opposite side.
05
Take the lateral sections, twist them in on themselves a little and cross them over each other, securing them at the base.
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06
07
08
09
10
11
The remaining hair is divided into two equal sections and separated into two pigtails.
Open up the ponytail and place the pigtails one over the other.
Repeat step seven, but this time using a clamp to support and hold the hair in place, allowing for an easier workspace.
PHOTOGRAPHY
Santo Palomo @SANTOPALOMO MUA
Sergio PeĂąa HAIR & STYLING
Juanmy Medialdea @JUANMY_MEDIALDEA MODEL
Nofuentes Models @NOFUENTESMODELS
Continue repeating the previous step until you finish the entire length of the hair.
IMAGES COURTESY OF DCT COMUNICAHAIR
As a final touch, open the strands of the braid to achieve a more buoyant effect.
Use a headdress if appropriate.
Special | Wedding
Wedding Trends 2020
Weddings are one of the most important days in a person’s life and for hairdressers they also mean big business. With the proliferation of social media brides are exposed to more ideas than ever and this can make your job as a hairdresser challenging. From getting to know the bride and her style more, to how to approach a desired style that might not suit them come the big day. We went to our pros to share step-by-steps and their expertise on the bridal business—and what trends to look out for this year.
IMAGE COURTESY OF LWPR
“The overall look was a youthful one, leaning on the boho side with a braid and messy updo in the lower section of the back of the head.”
Schwarzkopf Professional was the choice of product backstage at Harrogate Bridal Fashion week, by the award-winning MG Hair & Makeup team. Megan Garmers, founder and director of MG Hair & Makeup, spoke of the yearly event, “As the spring is upon us, we are getting ready for London Bridal Fashion Week and reminiscing about Harrogate Bridal Fashion Week. “There is always a mix of established designers and new or indie brands that show their designs on the catwalks and we love being a part of the backstage team to get the models ready. For Harrogate Bridal Fashion Week, we loved using Schwarzkopf Professional products to style and maintain the look the whole day through as there were multiple shows in one day.”
Schwarzkopf Professional x Harrogate Bridal Fashion Week Megan Garmers founder/director of mg hair & makeup
One
Start by prepping the hair with dry texture sprays and dry shampoo as needed to give grit and texture. Each model had different hair types and lengths so sometimes a mixture of both was needed. We used the Schwarzkopf Professional Mad About Waves Dry Shampoo, Schwarzkopf Professional OSIS+ Dry Texture Spray and Schwarzkopf Professional OSIS+ Pigmented Dry Shampoo. For a few with extra fine texture, we also used Schwarzkopf Professional OSIS+ Soft Dust in the crown as well.
Two
We then brushed the product through and sectioned the hair into a hard set with a curling iron and the Schwarzkopf Professional OSIS+ Elastic Hold Hairspray, pinning up the curls to cool. This gave added lift at the roots, especially for those with thinner and fine-textured hair.
Three Four
Once the hair cooled, we took the curls down, gave the model a side part and started with a braid on each side, finishing with a rubber band.
We then took the bottom side sections and clipped them forward so we could work on lower middle section. Taking it into thirds, we made three ponytails and sectioned each into a further two sections. After teasing each section, we twisted them over each other and pinned each over the rubber band base to conceal it. After the lower middle section was done, we took the braids and pinned them down across the back of the head diagonally.
Five
Then taking the side sections, we sectioned each in two, teased and twisted just like the lower middle section. Each side was then pinned above the lower middle section and over the braids. We took small pieces out around the face to loosen the look a bit and finished with the Schwarzkopf Professional OSIS+ Sparkler Shine Spray and the Schwarzkopf Professional OSIS+ Session Label Super Dry Fix.
IMAGES COURTESY OF LWPR
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Sharon Malcolm
owner of sharon malcolm hairdressing
Northern Ireland Hairdresser of the Year tells us her thoughts on wedding hair and trends for 2020...
W
hen it comes to wedding hair, there aren’t any specific trends to follow—the most important thing is suitability and wearability. The bridal hair consultation is absolutely key as this will give you an opportunity to talk to your client about the type of look she wants, see pictures of her dress neckline and talk about how she usually wears her hair. If she always wears it down, she may prefer more hair around her face and shoulders. If she’s used to wearing it up, 2020 hair is less structured and more beautifully undone. It’s important the bride feels like a million dollars and feels and looks like herself. Veils aren’t as popular as they have been, but accessories are the perfect way to add something to the hair to complement the dress. There’s so many to choose from at the moment, there is something for all styles and lengths of hair.
Jennifer Linton
co-founder of linton & mac
Jennifer has worked with brides for seven years and is currently prepping for a new photoshoot to showcase 2020 wedding styles. Here she talks about this year’s wedding trends and gives advice on dealing with brides. What do you think will be some of the biggest trends this year? I know veils are going to be in this year. We’re in the middle of planning a shoot and because the veils are going to be quite big and overpowering, we’re making the hair sleeker, smoother and more simplistic. In the same shoot, we are trying to go down a sustainable route. There are more people using recycled headpieces or dresses and they’re going down a more sustainable route for their wedding. Where would you get the sustainable head pieces? A couple of brides have asked if I would sell them to other brides and I’m wondering if that’s something we can maybe start doing. eBay, Depop are good for finding recycled headgear. Do you think that because veils will be big, that simplified hair will be a big thing? Yeah, I think so. I find with my brides that I am definitely going down more of the route with not-too-over-the-top, not too bridal or too set—everything is a lot looser not anyway. I am a colourist as well and with colour, everything is a lot more undone and simple, people don’t want high maintenance. Much more natural and simplistic. What do you think is going to be the biggest change? I think a lot more people would wear their hair down now. For a while, everyone was wearing their hair up, but they want to be more themselves on their wedding day and people don’t spend as much time putting their hair up as they used to. People will also be spending a lot more money on getting their colour right. What colour trends do you predict for brides? I always think blondes are a big thing for brides because a lot of weddings happen in the summer, but more lived-in and effortless hair. And not too much obvious balayage—I don’t think that’s a trend anymore people are looking for just a bit of root shadow. For colour themes, I’m looking at a lot of peaches, aqua, and a saffron yellow which I’ve seen a lot of recently. Why do you think brides are going for bigger veils and more sustainable fashion pieces? I think people’s dresses are more simplistic because they want to feel more themselves. But when the dress is simple they can have a bit more of a statement with a headpiece or veil. Headpieces are good because they change it up, but I’ve seen some really cool veils this year with print or names stitched in. It’s such a small part of the wedding and they can just take it off and look a bit more classic for the evening. I’ve also seen a few polka
MAIN IMAGE COURTESY OF ANGELO PANTAZIS
Jen’s prep tips I always get me brides to use the mini Kevin Murphy shampoos, and include that in the price of their package. You’ll get a couple of uses out of that bottle, so they can use it on and before their wedding day to make sure their hair doesn’t have any tacky products in it. • Each 40ml Kevin Murphy mini shampoo can be bought from kevinmurphystore.com
dot ones that are really nice—I kinda wish I was getting married this year. How would you advise brides that their ideas may not work? When I do a trial, I always give myself time so they can try their style and the style I think will work—that way it doesn’t look like I’m telling them. A lot of the time if they think their idea is right; you’ll just be fighting against them—it’s better to let them see it. You shouldn’t tell the bride they’re wrong, because if someone said that to me, I would think they don’t know what they’re doing or that my idea was rubbish. You need to make them aware that you know best, while not making them feel like that because it’s their day. Do their style first, then yours and take photos of each look so you can show them the whole process and let them think about it. I also don’t think they should bring too many people to a trial because some people influence them when they shouldn’t. What advice would you give to hairdressers new to wedding hair? Make sure you’re getting them [the brides] to use the right products. I give my brides shampoo and condition to use in the morning that I know is going to be good for their hair. It means they won’t have a buildup of product in their hair. Encourage them to start coming to you for colours and cuts before the trial, so you have that time to get to know them more if they aren’t already your client.
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Special | Wedding
Rose Quartz Nails Step–by–Step by Jaz Moger Salon System nail expert
Wedding season is approaching and nail expert, Jaz Moger has created a Rose Quartz inspired look using GELLUX, exclusive to SalonNV.
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Start by prepping the nails, then file to preferred shape, push back the cuticle using GELLUX Handy Manicure Tool (£4.95+VAT) and remove the cuticle using GELLUX Erase Cuticle Remover (£4.55+VAT). Buff the nail plate using the GELLUX Three Way Buffer (£0.95+VAT) and cleanse nails with GELLUX Prep + Wipe (£4.35+VAT). Apply the GELLUX Fast Bond (£5.85+VAT) followed by one coat of GELLUX Cover Pink Base Coat (£11.95+VAT) and cure.
Next, using a fineliner brush, randomly paint wiggly lines of GELLUX Purely White (£11.95+VAT) horizontally along the nail. Do not cure.
Then, dip a slightly thicker brush into the GELLUX Acetone (£3.10+VAT) and start to lightly dab the brush along the white line. The Acetone will cause the line to bleed a little. Once you’ve done this to every line, cure all nails.
Next, apply a second coat of GELLUX Cover Pink Base Coat
and cure.
Jaz Moger
with her view on bridal nail trends 2020 is all about understated chic minimal nail art for brides. Expect to see lots of nude colour palettes, alternative French, rose quartz, negative space and gold/silver cuticle detailing. Foiled designs are very effective as they really bring out the shine in the wedding ring. Foil also gives the illusion of jewellery at the fingertips, adding an extra touch of glamour to the Bride’s whole look.
Wipe over all the nails with GELLUX Acetone. Apply GELLUX Stick-It-Glue (£1.35+VAT) around the edge of the nail and dab gold foil onto the glue.
To finish, apply GELLUX Super Shiny Topcoat (£11.95+VAT), cure and then wipe over with GELLUX Prep + Wipe. Apply GELLUX Nail & Cuticle Oil (£4.35+VAT) to finish.
IMAGES COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK & ESSENCE PR
• Follow Jaz @paintbyjaz on Instagram for nail inspiration and great tips. • Find more information on the GELLUX products used by Jaz by visiting salonsystem.com.
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Chromatic HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards (sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional) British Hairresser of the Year winning collection | Robert Eaton
PHOTOGRAPHY
Richard Miles @RICHMILESPHOTO MUA
Lucy Flower @LUCYFLOWERMUA STYLING
Clare Frith @FRITHSTYLIST HAIR
Robert Eaton, creative director at Russell Eaton salons @ROBERTJEATON PRODUCTS
Wella Professionals @WELLAHAIR
ExpertNV | Hair
Hair colour predictions for SS20
Blue Sky Thinking
P
antone’s Colour of the Year for 2020 is Classic Blue—a shade reminiscent of the sky at dusk. Said to symbolize what’s coming next—the future, the unknown and a new decade—it’s an interesting choice, and one that will undoubtedly have the trickle down effect, filtering through and penetrating hair trends. Blue is never an easy colour to incorporate into a style—while its roots lie in nature, there is nothing remotely natural about blue hair, and so any hint of blue colour in the hair will naturally come across as aesthetically artificial and often quite jarring. For clients wanting to work this standout shade into their existing look, take inspiration from my Colour Codes collection (pictured) and weave the colour, in a muted form, into hair that has an existing cool tone to it. To create this look I worked a lovely aquamarine blue into a base that was already full of grey and ashen tones and the result is a look that is surprisingly wearable and shows that when it comes to colour this season, the sky really is the limit.
Acid Reign
R
ed was last season’s standout shade—most notably Anna Sui’s cherry red—and as an organic development of that trend, we’re now seeing even more amplified takes on rouge for spring/summer 2020 and this time the colour is even more intense and the effect even more
Steph Peckmore colour manager,
bad apple hair group
extreme. Mary Tudor was the regal inspiration behind the acidred locks dreamt up for Commes Des Garcons’ SS20 show—a look I also referenced as part of my Colour Codes collection. It’s certainly not a shade for wallflowers, but if your clients are looking for this summer’s alternative to the high-maintenance platinum and white that usually fills up their Insta feed over the summer months, then this is it.
IMAGES COURTESY OF SEVEN PUBLICITY
Punchy Pastels
I
PHOTOGRAPHY
Tom Goddard @APERTUREYEZ MUA
Meg Lindow & Ruby Landles
f you thought we’d seen the back of pastels then think again. Thanks to their unique intrinsic ability to come across as both powerful and graceful—not an easy feat—pastels are back, but this time they’re packing a powerful punch. From violent violet and Tipex-white streaks at Moschino, to imposing lemon and candyfloss wigs at Jeremy Scott, powdery pastels made an appearance in various guises at an array of Fashion Week S/S20 shows, but there was always one defining quality—these pastels were anything but quiet. Matty Bovan’s models are probably my favourite fashion reference for this seasonal trend, sporting a palette of dusty pastel hues inspired by Seventies’ bathroom suites: think lavender, duck egg, sage and avocado. What truly defines the new season’s pastels is that they’re intense, concentrated and authoritative—a far cry from last season’s the polite, whimsical, and decidedly wishy-washy pastels. The key to nailing this differential and ensuring pastels look modern is to use shades that are fundamentally muted and delicate, but place them and deliver them with punch. Backstage at Matty Bovan they achieved this with unexpected colour placement and intense contrast —colourists even painted extended ponytails with actual Farrow & Ball paint to nail the intensity where it couldn’t be achieved with hair colour. For my most recent colour collection, Colour Codes, I injected that energy by using two contrasting shades—one through the front section and the other throughout the rest of the hair. Using two so-similar-they-clash colours against each other creates that beautifully unpredictable powerful pastel punch.
@MEGLINDOWMUA @RUBYLANDLES STYLING
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT BAD APPLE HAIR:
James Earnshaw, Danyl Knox & Tarin Sawyer Scott @JHAIR_STYLIST, @DANYLKNOXHAIR HAIR
Stephanie Peckmore @STEPHPECKMORE
VISIT: BADAPPLEHAIR.COM TWEET: @BADAPPLEHAIR FACEBOOK: BADAPPLEHAIR INSTAGRAM: @BADAPPLEHAIR
World leading ethical hair extensions To enquire about joining the elite and becoming a Great Lengths certiďŹ edstylist visit GREATLENGTHSHAIR.CO.UK/BECOME-A-CERTIFIED-STYLIST Tel: +44 (0) 113 278 1292
ExpertNV | Hair
Be an expert in colour correction
For your clients, colour correction can sound pretty daunting. It’s frustrating paying for a new colour, only for it to turn sour. This could be from a patchy home-job or a bad experience at another salon—this aspect isn’t super important but it will keep you busy for the rest of your career. Stylists can be scared of colour correction because of how broad a spectrum the service actually is or they might lack the confidence to tackle the task at hand. While colour correction is a challenge, there’s no reason to be afraid. Read what our experts had to say when you’re faced with a client unhappy with their current colour.
IMAGE COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK
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ExpertNV | Hair
Five golden rules of colour correction Carolyn Newman,
international colour expert and educator
one
It all starts with an honest and open consultation. Once you have agreed what colour correction process you will do, you must outline each step of the process to the client. Discuss what will happen to their hair at each stage and how long it will take. Always give more time than you think you will need and add an extra 30 minutes or hour. Get full agreement from your client.
two
Be upfront with your pricing—I always add an extra cost per 30 minutes or an hour as colour corrections always take longer than we think and you need to cover things like product and salary cost, among other things.
three
If you are in any doubt, do a couple of strand tests to see if you can achieve the desired shades and tones. If you can’t achieve it you need to have a full and frank discussion with the client on what is achievable.
four
Before you start the service repeat to your client the full process and what will happen to their hair. After every stage you must reassess the hair colour, condition and porosity and think technically, what you need to do to achieve your desired shade. Your client may be in the chair for many hours, always check regularly that they are comfortable, relaxed and have plenty of refreshments. I always tell my clients to bring lunch, snacks, books to read or work to do.
five
When doing a colour correction application, work cleanly, quickly and neatly—with an immaculate trolley or workstation—so your mind is clear and focused. It’s good to write out a step by step plan and keep in the colour dispensary to follow so you can check it and review to keep yourself on track.
The full colour correcting service Charlotte Cave,
founder and creative director of charlotte cave
Don’t stress
Colour is very sophisticated and much like painting, everything can be corrected. If you’re a good colourist, there is always a solution.
Time
One of the most important rules for colour correction. It is not an exaggeration to think you could have a client in the chair for a whole day—I’d encourage them to bring a good book or download a podcast and make sure you provide them with plenty of refreshments. The longer you give the kinder you are to the hair.
Plan your colour journey
Work with an annual plan so you maintain the client’s expectations with how much time and money they need to invest into getting their colour back on track.
Warren Boodaghian
head of technical of hob salons
People think a colour correction is going from dark to light, or dark to dark, but a colour correction can be a whole variety of things and we do colour corrections every day without even realising it. Nowadays, clients change their hair colour as often as their lipstick so don’t be scared of seeing a colour correction in your column. It could be something as simple as a refresh, to something that they don’t like what they have. Our job as the colour expert is to make sure the client feels like they are being taken care of and give them the knowledge that they are in the best hands. They are in your seat because they’re not happy with what they have so you need to reassure them they will leave looking better than when they came in. If a client is upset or frustrated with their colour, make sure you are empathetic. No matter whether the colour correction is minimal or a big job, let them know it can be rectified. If they need to return for more appointments, share with them the journey you are going to take them on so they know what is happening and what the result will be. Talk about the process, the homecare, what will happen next.
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Make sure the client feels comfortable and confident in you and your skills as the colour expert.
Condition is key
The hair prep is of upmost importance in colour correction, so a pre-strengthening salon treatment is recommended for a stronger, shinier finish.
Aftercare advice
As a colourist, your work for the client doesn’t just stop in the chair—it’s so important to give the right after-care advice including recommended the right products to maintain hair condition. Think of the hair as a very expensive cashmere jumper— be kind, always. Ideally, clients will wash the hair 72-hours after the colour correction, allowing the cuticles to close and the colour to settle. Advise them not to use super-hot water, keeping water at a cool temperature is better for the hair and the planet.
IMAGE COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK
Identify the problem areas with the client and work out what’s both most important and least important. Most importantly, don’t panic. Allow plenty of time to resolve the situation and don’t rush.
Always remember everything stems from the classics, so your fundamentals will always help. You can only lighten, darken or change the tone so don’t forget that.
Hair away in a flash words by
Kenzi Devine
LASER TREATMENT ON ARMPIT HAIR
I
n today’s world, there is practically a beauty solution for every cosmetic problem you could imagine, we’re not just talking about fillers and lifts, but hair removal. Temporary solutions have been around for a while, be it shaving, waxing or tweezing; however, laser hair removal has grown in popularity over the last 20 years. Laser hair removal is the process of removing the hair through pulses of laser light that destroy the hair follicle. While it doesn’t remove the hair permanently, it does drastically remove the amount of hair growth in that area—meaning it is known as a more permanent source of hair removal than others. Laser hair removal has moved on previously painful methods, while some may feel slight pangs, the new ‘in-motion’ technique that many clinics use tends to be less painful and more of a motion sensation. It is going from strength to strength in terms of popularity and research, with the most recent innovation mixing laser technologies—providing more than one wavelength so that all skin and hair types can be treated with one machine. This combines previous technologies and creates a more multipurpose machine rather than only being suitable for one hair type, area or shade. A global leader in hair removal is the Splendor X by Lumenis, which uses a square-shaped laser, as opposed to the traditional rounded laser technology;
IMAGE COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK
according to Lumenis, this creates a “faster and more uniform” coverage of the area. The market is saturated with beauty salons and clinics offering this form of hair removal at competitive prices, with different brands using equipment with varying or combined wavelengths, some suitable for different skin tones and some being a somewhat ‘one for all’. This isn’t to say you have to head to the salon to get your hair zapped off, why not just through the house? Since 2008, FDA approved home laser hair removal systems have been available, while most of these use IPL (intense pulsed light), which uses a broader light rather than a laser, there are a few laser solutions for the comfort of your own home. While they will set you back around £200-£500, however, being your own beauty therapist can be more convenient for those with a busier lifestyle. When it comes to IPL, it is a newer form of hair removal and tends to be less effective than the laser hair removal method, with it being more suited to lighter hair types. However, if you’re looking for a cheaper and quicker appointment, it may be the way to go. With around seven to 10 sessions being needed for best results for both laser and IPL, the road to almost permanent hair removal will take commitment. Most salons offer free consultations if you are considering hair removal, which will give you an idea of how many sessions it will take and what you’re in for. Holding the largest share of the hair removal device market back in 2017, laser hair removal has worked its way into the UK’s beauty industry and doesn’t seem to be slowing down. With an abundance of options, areas and salons offering the service, bagging yourself a consultation is as easy as booking to get your hair done, it’ll be over in a flash.
BusinessNV | Building Success
Blow Me, Baby Blow City, Glasgow
F
Jilly Isabella
allon Carberry (@f_for_fal), the queen of Glasgow’s fashion-forward salon empire, Blow (@blow_colourbar) has recently opened a third location in the heart of the city. The new space, UNBRANDED, is set to be the ultimate modern self-care space. Blow rose to prominence in the social media sphere as the salon behind the celebrity loved glitter root trend. Since its viral rise, Blow has opened salons in the Shawlands and Finnieston areas of Glasgow but the new salon on Queen Street is set to be a wholly new and exciting beast. The city centre venture will house 12 hair stations, a gin bar, host live DJ sets and a hair extension area. Last month, the award-winning salon teamed up with celebrity stylist, Jay Birmingham (@ jaybirminghamhair) to produce their new BLOW DRY collection. Jay dresses the tresses of many celebrity clients including Gemma Collins, Kelly Brook, Molly Mae, Maura Higgins, Amanda Holden and his best friend and ex-Corrie actress, Helen Flanagan—who features in the BLOW DRY collection, alongside influencers Polly Marchant and Jilly Isabella. You can see the entire collection yourself in this edition of SalonNV and any of the beautiful Blow locations. We had the pleasure of going behind the scenes at the shoot and catching up with Jay and Fallon...
In conversation with Fallon... Tell us a bit about yourself? My name is Fallon and I’m a salon owner and creative from Glasgow. My passion is creating brands and watching them come to life. I thrive on creating and working on new projects. I have recently launched Blow City which includes a unique space within salon called @unbrandedgla. Unbranded is a hub for luxury brands to collaborate, inspire and create with each other in the heart of Glasgow's city centre. It’s my biggest project to date and I’m so excited about it! What is the best thing about being a hairdresser? I just love making people feel hot. I want to create lived-in sexy hair that makes people feel amazing about themselves. My salon tagline is “hair that gets you laid” and it does what it says on the tin! Who inspires you? My team, without a shadow of a doubt. We have an eclectic mix of characters in our salons and their work ethic and talent blows me away on the daily! They work so hard and they make me so proud.
IMAGES COURTESY OF I AM ATOMIC 10 & AJC93
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BusinessNV | Building Success
What are your top three tips for success? Life takes work, business takes work, relationships take work and most days take a whole lot of hard work. To reach my goals, I create a plan. I write that plan down and I remind myself of that plan every single day. To be successful you need to be happy. Be a good person, learn from your mistakes, surround yourself with good people and exit relationships that no longer serve you, and work your bloody ass off! What are your hair predictions for 2020? “I woke up like this." This is a phrase I love and think of when creating hair. I love undone colour. Hair that looks like you have been yachting for a month in the St Tropez air or like it’s just been left to dry after swimming in the sea all day—effortless, sunkissed and cool! What was the last thing that made you cringe? Anything I've said after three margaritas! Hence why I take the mostly sober route these days. Which celebrities' hair would you most like to do? I would love to do Hailey Baldwin. I love her cool girl vibe. I’d give her a wash of PILAC with a #blowwave. What’s your best talent? Creating! I just love making things come to life in my own little way. Whether it’s a flower arrangement, interior design or hair. I can visualise how I want things to look and thrive on making it come to life. I’m pretty good at talking too... Tell us something no one knows about you? I can crochet and used to make myself skirts to wear out before I hit da club! What song is the theme tune to your life? Don’t Stop Believing. I’m also ridiculously cheesy—don’t judge!
A gab with Jay... Tell us a bit about yourself. Hi, I’m Jay Birmingham, celebrity hairdresser and salon owner from Birmingham. The best thing about being a hairdresser? Getting to make people feel and look beautiful day in, day out. I feel grateful and lucky to have experienced so much already I love working for myself and being my own boss and making people happy. There is also nothing more rewarding than client feedback and meeting new people every day.
Who inspires you? My parents and my friends. I make sure I surround myself with people who build my confidence and make me feel great about what you're doing and support each other. My clients also inspire me, they are always so interested in my work and life and what I am up to. My biggest hair inspiration is Andrew Fitzsimons, he always gives me motivation and the drive to achieve my goals. What are your top three tips for success? Work extremely hard and be patient, say yes to any job and get as much experience as you possibly can. Last but not least, always be passionate, love your job and enjoy every opportunity that comes your way! What are your hair predictions for 2020? Simple hair is a MUST for 2020, with beautiful soft blow-drys, natural volume and texture—it’s all about embracing natural beauty and I love the effortless look. Bangs are definitely back for 2020, a fringe can really change a persons' face and whole look, and can also be incredibly versatile. Choppy, textured bobs will remain in fashion throughout 2020 with subtle highlights to add movement and definition. Accessories, accessories, accessories! Hair clasps, bows, glitter—you name it, the 90s hair trends are making a comeback and will be here to stay. What was the last thing that you remember that made you cringe? This question made me cringe! Some of the weird DMs I receive on Instagram (@ jaybirmingham_ and @jaybirminghamhair). Which celebrity's hair would you most love to do? I’d love to do any of these hair Queens—Beyonce, Rihanna and Madonna. What's your best talent? Doing hair?! Tell us something no one knows about you? I wouldn’t say there was anything no one knew about me. I’m pretty much an open book and everyone already knows everything about me.
• Stay up–to–date on all things Blow, Fallon and Jay by visiting the website, ohblow.com and following @f_for_fal, @blow_colourbar and @jaybirminghamhair on Instagram.
IMAGES COURTESY OF I AM ATOMIC 10 & AJC93 & GRAPHICTWISTER@FREEPIK.COM
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BusinessNV | Building Success
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C
elebrating its 40th year in the hairdressing industry, Scotland’s largest salon group, Rainbow Room International, came together for its Annual Congress at the luxurious Airth Castle Hotel and Spa. Team members from Rainbow Room International’s twelve salons arrived for a day of inspirational presentations, hair shows and an awards ceremony packed with recognition and rewards. Alan Stewart, owner and founder of Rainbow Room International, opened the day and welcomed everyone to the congress, congratulating all team members for their hard work and dedication as they reached their 40th anniversary. Alan spoke about the brand’s vision for client retention and what salon teams can do to ensure their clients become lifelong clients. Alan then introduced AJC93 PR to the stage who shared coverage statistics and a digital video overview of the great exposure Rainbow Room International received last year. Alan then introduced coach Alan Austin-
IMAGES COURTESY OF AJC93
Smith, who presented excerpts from The Fantastic Hairdresser. Alan’s theme was ‘change’, and how life does not get better by chance, it gets better by change. After a motivational presentation from Alan Austin-Smith the congress moved on to the creative section of the day, and Lesley Jennison, global colour ambassador for Schwarzkopf Professional took to the stage where she showcased on-trend models and talked about catwalk trends and bringing them into the salon and how colour is so important to complete a look and how it can be bespoke to each client. With inspirational looks from Lesley Jennison, Rainbow Room International artistic directors and Schwarzkopf Professional UK ambassadors joined the stage where they styled two models live on stage, Dylan’s models colour was inspired by Billie Eilish. Researching how many hair colours Billie has had over the past few years shows how frequently hair colour trends change and how popular they have become. Suzie also presented models from their 40th anniversary collection called ‘Ruby’. Suzie and Dylan were joined on stage with Rainbow Room International Artistic Team members who also showcased beautiful colour and upturned bobs to sit alongside the current colour trends as seen at Fashion Week. All models then took to the catwalk showcasing their finished looks, it was a truly inspirational day for all the salons. In the evening the teams and guests came
together for the RRI Congress Awards. The awards included Assistant of the Year and Fantastic Hairdresser of the Year through to the sought after Salon Team of the Year award. This year the Salon of the Year Award went to the team at Great Western Road, as well as Diana Carson from the Uddingston salon picking up three awards on the night. Great Western Road Directors, John and Jo Parker were joined on-stage by their entire salon team to collect the prestigious award from company directors, Alan and Linda Stewart, and were overjoyed, thanking Alan, Linda and the judges for recognising the team’s hard work throughout the year. With the awards over and everyone happy, it was time for the party to begin with the team dancing the night away. A delighted Alan and Linda Stewart said, “We’d like to thank each and every one of you for a successful year and your passion and dedication to Rainbow Room. Everyone is special and has the abilitiy to constantly improve and develop and is why we have been a part of the hairdressing industry for 40 years. Here’s to another fantastic year for the Rainbow Room International brand.”
Rainbow Room International COngress Winners ASSISTANT OF THE YEAR LEVEL 2
Carla Phillips, George Square ASSISTANT OF THE YEAR LEVEL 3
Joele Bolton, George Square MAINTAINING A RATING THROUGHOUT 2019
The Team at Howard Street RECEPTION TEAM OF THE YEAR
Buchanan Street & Stirling SOCIAL MEDIA AWARDS ACADEMY TRAINER OF THE YEAR
Caitlin Wright, The Academy at Howard Street
gold—Rachel
Orr, The Academy at Howard Street Muldoon, Stirling bronze—Stephanie Patrick, George Square silver—Kirsty
CREATIVE MEN’S IMAGE AWARD
Diana Carson, Uddingston CREATIVE IMAGE AWARD
PROFESSIONAL EXCELLENCE
Alison Jamieson, AJC93 PR Kay Brady, Schwarzkopf Professional
Diana Carson, Uddingston CARING AWARD CREATIVE COLLECTION
The Academy at Howard Street
Diana Carson, Uddingston SPECIAL RECOGNITION CREATIVE TEAM COLLECTION
Uddingston SOCIAL MEDIA IMAGE
Craig Callaghan, The Academy at Howard Street
IMAGES COURTESY OF AJC93
Joy McQuillan, Buchanan Street Pamela Wallace, Buchanan Street SALON TEAM OF THE YEAR
Great Western Road
BusinessNV | Building Success
Salon Spotlight
ANTI Establishment ANTI Studio, London
The ANTI brand has opened its first studio in London. Editorial hair expert Nick Irwin and Prema Hair CEO, Francesco Ruggerino have brought the ANTI a flexible space to house their diverse creative community in the UK’s economic capital. ANTI Studio 51 Atlantic Rd, Brixton, LONDON SW9 8JL ESTABLISHED
2020 WEBSITE
anticollective.com INSTAGRAM
@anti.collective
Located in a former railway arch in the heart of Brixton Village, the ANTI studio will be a multi-purpose blank canvas for content creation, education, events, product testing and innovation—as well as salon facilities, with 16 sections, ultra-modern backwash units and an enormous colour table. Within the arch is a cover for shotting, slick porjection equipment for presentations and inspiration, and enough space for housing parties, courses and castings—and a giant disco ball. Nick and Franc saw the strong community spirit and identity of Brixton and wanted to mirror that feeling in their creative space—they wanted an open-door policy for stylists and brands looking for a base. “We want to be part of the community,” Nick says. “Brixton and its people, values and beliefs fit with the ANTI brand and the collaborative approach we take.” The multidisciplinary space features floorto-ceiling windows and celebrates the theatre of hairdressing—while opening its doors to the wider fashion world. The team hopes their strength of spirit will attract local talent and further build on its creative community. As a hub for all things ANTI, the versatile workshop will house education, as well as product development.
IMAGES COURTESY OF LWPR
“We want to involve hairdressers in the whole brand,” explains Franc. “It’s not about hiding away what we’re doing. We like to think of it as an artisan workshop for ANTI where we can do live testing on real clients.” This desire to put products int he hands of hairdressers and clients led to the development of a Perma salon within the studio. This will allow stylists to see clients—creating real ANTI hair on real people—and bring the brand into the close-knit community, while maintaining the feel of a flexible creative space. This will also provide ANTI with a london home, the ANTI studio will also be a collaborative creative space for hairdressers, professional brands and Nick and Franc’s wide network of session stylists looking for a base to work from. To tie the whole space together, ANTI houses everything required for content creation, with a cove, lighting and facilities for shoot, filming and social media production. While this space will be accessible to anyone using the studio, two days per week will be earmarked for creative projects—be they fashion shoots, education or fittings and testings for shows; something which has already been happening during London Fashion Week Men’s.
BusinessNV | Upskilling
Medusa Training
Hosting the Hair Stage at Scottish Hair Show 2020
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ver the past few years, Medusa Training has been involved with Scottish Hair & Beauty Show and we can say we have helped increase audience turnout. Moving to SEC was a great move— making it feel more like an exhibition, seeing more stands come on board and with us hosting the hair stage, it has certainly entertained the crowds. This year we have once again put together a fantastic line up ready and waiting to showcase their work, educate and entertain. Last year we saw amazing styles created by some of the best stylists and salons in Scotland. It's great to see so many of our member salons taking part, and you too can have the opportunity to get on our stage if you want. Join us today, become a member salon, ask us how too and get yourself focused on where you want to be. Come join us on Sunday 19 and Monday 20 April to not only watch the show but find out about how we can support you and your salon in apprenticeship training, upskilling your team, Train the Trainer courses, covering both barbering and hairdressing. Check out the stage line–up:
How Medusa can help you and your business Apprenticeships can be difficult to get to grips with and to get the right training for your learners. Let Medusa Training take all that away from you and help set you on the right path. We will create a training plan for you and your apprentices, and we will make sure that the training they receive is salon focused and that they learn as much as possible—as we understand how important that is. OFFER FOR ANY NEW SALONS THAT COME ON BOARD FOR APPRENTICESHIPS: MEDUSA TRAINING ARE GIVING AWAY ONE FREE PLACE ON A CUTTING OR COLOURING COURSE TO ONE MEMBER OF YOUR TEAM.
Train the Trainer courses have been created and will run out from June 2020 onwards, one day a month for seven months. You will be taught best practice for training and along the way get taught aspects of cutting, colouring and styling. WE ARE GIVING 40% OFF THE NORMAL COST OF THIS COURSE FOR ANYONE WANTING TO LEARN HOW TO TEACH EFFECTIVELY AND UPSKILL THEMSELVES AT THE SAME TIME. YOU WILL ALSO BE INVOLVED WITH YOUR APPRENTICE DURING THIS COURSE.
The events calendar will be out for the show in April and we have some great courses with equally great prices. For example, cutting courses starting at just £50. This year is all about involvement and accessibility for everyone, we want to get as many people and salons as we can involved in training and skills. MEDUSA TRAINING IS RUNNING MANY COURSES OVER 2020 AND WE WILL SEE CUTTING COURSES FOR £50 AND COLOURING FOR JUST £75. WE CAN HELP YOU DESIGN IN-HOUSE COURSES AS WELL IF YOU WANT US TO COME TO YOU.
Do you need support with barbering qualifications? Courses to help gain more technical ability? Or fancy getting into the barbering industry? Ask us about how we can support you in any of these. WE HAVE SHOW OFFERS ON BARBERING INTRODUCTION COURSES, HAIRDRESSER TO BARBER DAY COURSES AND FULL QUALIFICATIONS.
Looking to get back into hairdressing? Or perhaps get into hairdressing for the first time? Difficult finding the route in and no funding to support you? Let us help you get into hairdressing whatever way you want too with our tailormade qualifications, upskilling courses and refreshers. Medusa Training courses are starting soon after the show and we have made them as accessible as possible to help you get back into the hair industry. We have payment plans available for all our courses to help spread the financial side as well. Speak to our team at the show—we are at stand number B68 right across from the Hair Stage— or contact us at info@medusatraining.co.uk
Register for FREE entry prior to the show at scottishhairandbeautyshow.com/register. We will be joined on stand by partners that will be there to support you and get you some of the best offers from the show that we can, so don’t miss out on these, get registered and come along.
BUK Show Advert 2020.qxp_Layout 1 11/02/2020 10:28 Page 12
SCOTLAND’S LARG
HAIR & BEAU
TRADE SHO IS BACK 19th & 20th APRIL 2020 SEC, GLASGOW
GROW YOUR HAIR & BEAUTY BU AT SCOTTISH HAIR & BEAUT
• THE LATEST TRENDS, LAUNCHES AND INNOVAT • INSPIRING EDUCATION PROGRAMMES
• £1,000S OF SHOW OFFERS AND DISCOUNT
• PROFESSIONAL NETWORKING OPPORTUNIT
REGISTER NOW TO RECEIVE FREE TICKET
ScottishHairandBeautySho TICKET ENQUIRIES: 01332 227 698
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SCOTLAND’S LARGEST
HAIR & BEAUTY
TRADE SHOW IS BACK 19th & 20th APRIL 2020 SEC, GLASGOW
GROW YOUR HAIR & BEAUTY BUSINESS AT SCOTTISH HAIR & BEAUTY • THE LATEST TRENDS, LAUNCHES AND INNOVATIONS • INSPIRING EDUCATION PROGRAMMES • £1,000S OF SHOW OFFERS AND DISCOUNTS • PROFESSIONAL NETWORKING OPPORTUNITIES
REGISTER NOW TO RECEIVE FREE TICKETS
ScottishHairandBeautyShow.com TICKET ENQUIRIES: 01 332 227 698
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EcoNV | Environment
How y u can help save the waves
Hair booms help absorb oil spills
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itching cast-off hair extensions could be considered one of the biggest wastages of any salon. When you or clients dispose of used extensions, they simply pile up in landfills, but what if you could put them to good use? What if you could use old extensions to save the environment? To solve this harmful beautification byproduct, popular hair extension brand, Additional Lengths has teamed up with Matter of Trust to support their Clean Wave campaign. Through the Clean Wave campaign you can donate hair, fur and fleece to keep storm drains and waterways clear. As one of the leading suppliers and manufacturers of hair extensions in the UK, Additional Lengths sells over four tons of raw hair every year, which will, eventually, end up in the bin once the client has moved on to a new set. Additional Lengths and Remi Cachet founder, Victoria Lynch said, “We acknowledge this is a huge waste and considered the big effect on the environment. So we looked for an ethical solution to mindfully reduce our waste and benefit the environment.” The extension giant’s partnership with Matter of Trust came about because many stylists asked for ways to recycle excess hair. “It seemed such a waste to simply throw the hair in the bin when the extensions were removed.” There were options for the brand to reuse the hair. However, there are restrictions placed on the types of hair accepted and the brand wanted to open their policy up to as many people as possible—
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ensuring everyone can do their bit for the environment. When Additional Lengths researched the best ways to recycle hair, the Matter of Trust team offered the brand a perfect solution. The solution? Victoria Lynch told us, “Unlike loose hair clippings, the extension sets returned need to be bound together. To aid the recycling process, the hair should come bound—using a hair tie is fine—into a neat pile when it is sent through the post. “The extensions are then returned to Matter of Trust, where they are processed and turned into hair mats and booms.” These hair constructs are then used to combat oil spills in oceans and rivers where the once discarded hair will collect debris and absorb oil. This process helps minimise the impact of oil spills and disposed of extensions on eco-systems. The hair mats were used on street drains in a recent ground oil spill in San Francisco, USA.
IMAGE COURTESY OF CLEAN WAVE & SHUTTERSTOCK
Get involved!
and do your bit for the environment Want to get your salon involved? All salons can save their excess, and any brand of extensions are accepted into the recycling scheme. Victoria Lynch added, “They do not have to be ones that were initially sold by Additional Lengths or Remi Cachet. As long as the hair is collected together and secured in a neat bundle with a hair tie, we will accept it.” If you want to repurpose your unwanted hair extensions, you can send them to the Additional Lengths head office. From there, extensions are regularly shipped to the US where Matter of Trust recycles the hair. Additional Lengths and in support of the Clean Wave campaign will accept any brand of extensions, they simply ask that you tie the bundle together at the top and post them to the address below: HAIR RECYCLING ADDITIONAL LENGTHS MAXWELL’S CORNER 1-3 NORTON ROAD STOCKTON ON TEES UNITED KINGDOM TS18 2BW
SocialNV | Collections
Breaking the Stigma
Creating the collection with Robert Kirby
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he newest collection from leading Irish stylist Robert Kirby (@robertkirbyhair) strikes a very personal chord. SalonNV spoke to Robert about the Bernadette collection and how the collection uses hair to pay tribute to his mum and tackle the stigma surrounding dementia. Around 225,000 people in the UK will develop the disease this year—that’s one person every three minutes. However, most people will not understand what it is like to have a parent with dementia. Robert wanted to use his lived experience to communicate these feelings. Discussing Bernadette’s concept with friends, Robert found that they had a hard time understanding the connection between hair and dementia. But Robert has loved hair since he was 13-years-old. Robert told us he “was blow-drying the women in my street”. Hair is his, and many others’, way of expressing complex feelings. “It just seemed a collection inspired by and in tribute to my mum was the most organic way I knew how to start a conversation about what she is going through.” Robert wanted the collection to help break down the barriers when we talk about dementia. Bernadette seeks to change how we, as a society treats a stigmatised topic. “I have had messages from so many people saying how amazing it was to see this collection as they too had been touched by this dreadful disease. Dementia has an awful reputation, and awful stigmas, ‘going cuckoo’, ‘losing your marbles’ and ‘the nutty farm’. “It’s just so sad for me when people are reaching the winter of their lives and this becomes their legacy. There is no other disease that is treated like this. We need to start talking about how awful it is.” When creating a collection, a stylist can pull inspiration from the anywhere, even their darkest or most vulnerable moments. This is the case for Robert Kirby’s ‘bittersweet’ collection. The 1950s aesthetic was directly inspired by Robert’s mother. “I wanted to recognise her with a collection that would start a conversation about this cruel and unforgiving disease. “I am extremely proud of the collection and all who were involved with it; I have a great team behind all my collections. But as the collection becomes successful it is a constant reminder of this awful disease she is suffering from.” Robert chose the 1950s as his inspiration because this was
IMAGES COURTESY OF JACK EAMES
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SocialNV | Collections
when he imagines his mother “living away from home and being independent”. To this day, Robert describes his mother as a glamorous and stylish woman, and this image of her became Robert’s creative driving force. Once Robert knew the theme, he needed to build the team. For this, he turned to longtime collaborator Elisa Heinesen (@elisa_ heinesen) to create fashion his Bernadette’s concept. “From the meeting, I usually have a creative explosion and then we talk about how we move forward with styling, makeup and choosing a photographer.” Robert told SalonNV that the process was bittersweet, as everyone in the creative team had experienced the effects of the disease in some way. Bernadette photographer, Andrew Kimber’s (@andrewkimber_) grandmother suffered from dementia, as did Elisa Heinesen’s mother. This meant Robert had surrounded himself with people who understood his vision for the collection. Despite these first-hand experiences, Robert said, “It was exciting as it gave everyone a spark that I hadn’t experience on a shoot before. We were all there doing what we do for our loved ones.” When we asked Robert why it’s important for stylists to let their creative sides flourish with collections, he told us...
“There is something so exciting about it. From the brainstorming meetings to the preparation of the models on the day. When the images are finally sided by side on a screen the immense feeling of satisfaction is remarkable. It’s just such an exciting thing to do.” When it came time for him to first see the final images, Robert felt a special kind of magic wash over him. “It was only the second time I had worked with Andrew Kimber and he knew exactly what I wanted, I could describe a pose and he had a way of drawing it out of the model. “I have been on shoots in the past where the work on the model doesn’t appear on the screen, but this time it was there in every detail with a special magic.” HOW IMPORTANT IS COLLABORATION? ROBERT SAYS... “My work is always in collaboration with IdHAIR and I am so lucky with the support they provide me. I usually have a few hairdressers from the IdHAIR family on my shoot working on the project. I am of course the creative and the work is essentially my baby, but I am always open to ideas. I have always been happy to hear the feedback from my shoots that the environment is always stress-free to inspire creativity.”
BERNADETTE CREDITS PHOTOGRAPHY
Andrew Kimber MAKEUP
Marta Wozniak STYLING
Elisa Heinesen HAIR
Robert Kirby PRODUCTS
IdHAIR
TrainingNV | Classes
Class is in session
Session styling education is always in hot demand. A fact award-winning session stylist, Tracey Devine-Smith understands and to meet this demand, she has launched a series of two-day course to help guide other hair professionals.
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racey has been in the hair industry for 35 years. Her wealth of experience has taken her across the world working with acclaimed brands. Currently, her main roles are with Affinage Salon Professional and is the global creative director for the Glamour Hair Salon group in the UAE. She first won Scottish Hairdresser of the Year in 2006 and from there she started to get a lot more requests for photographic work. Additionally, Tracey spearheads the point of sale imagery for ASP— seen in 75 countries and works educating with the brand. This has given her valuable insight to pass on to younger hair professionals who want to follow in a similar career path. When she first moved back to the UK in August last year, Tracey Devine-Smith was inundated with people asking for education. “There was lots of people asking me if I was doing educating,” she told SalonNV. “I do education through Affinage Salon Professional, where I do a lot of colour and cut education, but they didn’t run a backstage class […] so many people want to know about session work and how to create photographic collections.” “It’s not something you can teach as such, but if you can give them hints and tips, it will certainly help them grow as a photographic stylist.” She wants students to come away from the courses with confidence and a newfound love for hair. “For me, it’s about making people believe that anything’s possible. I come from the tiniest wee village in the middle of nowhere and if I can go on and do all the stuff I’ve done and give back, hopefully, one day they will do the same.” • Tracey is soon to be opening a new salon in Belper, Derbyshire which will have the facilities to house the courses as well, but for now, she will travel to you for any classes. • For more information about the courses or to book in call 07388181545 or contact Tracey on her social media sites, facebook.com/traceydevinesmith and @tdevinesmithhairartist.
IMAGES COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK
Tracey’s classes SESSION STYLING / LONG HAIR DAY ONE The first day will cover all the backstage basics; how to prep hair, how to finish hair, how to brush properly, how to perfect ponytails and section patterns. You will also learn what products work best for styling. DAY TWO Students will be able to create their own looks—chosen before the start of the course—so if you have a collection or stage work planned, Tracey will arm you with everything you need to create those looks.
INNOVATE AND INSPIRE
This motivational course will offer advice on consultation, retail, building your column and creating a collection. “I’ve had my salon for 21 years and these were hiccups and problems I came across every day. Motivating your staff every day can be really, really tough. “I try to make staff look at it as if it’s their own business, rather than working for someone, so they push themselves and the business.”
COLOUR AND CUT MASTERCLASS
The Colour and Cut Masterclass is separated into two levels; basic and creative.
EDUCATION 2020 SESSION STYLING/LONG HAIR CLASSES 1 & 2 1. Learn tips & tricks to refine session skills and perfect basic techniques. 2. Next level ‘backstage hair’, create your own award– ready looks.
COLOUR & CUT MASTERCLASS Creative colour placement and innovative cutting techniques with hands–on participation.
INNOVATE & INSPIRE Team talks on salon etiquette, consultation, retail and how to create an award–winning hair collection.
• Costs £150.00 per head • Minimum of 5 students per course • Host receives minimum 1x free space • Expenses may apply • To book/enquire, call 07388 181545 or drop Tracy a message on social media. *Bespoke courses available on request
A quick glance at the work of social media–savvy creatives across the country.
Instagram Showcase
Tag @BARBERNVMAGAZINE for a chance to feature your work in our next issue.
ProductNV
Editor’s Choice THIS MONTH, WE FEATURE A GORGEOUS GIFT BOX FROM AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT, A LIMITED–EDITION OFFERING FROM GHD AND ANOTHER GREAT CHAIR FROM TAKARA BELMONT.
authentic beauty concept
Glow Gift Box Authentic Beauty Concept presents hair care in a ‘new hair language’, one that celebrates loose, free flowing texture. The vegan-friendly products are also free-from parabens, mineral oils and silicones. The ingredients, including date and cinnamon are perfecting for enhancing colour, moisturising and conditioning, and firming. Each set contains: Authentic Beauty Concept Glow Cleanser, Authentic Beauty Concept Glow Mask and Glow Candle. | AUTHENTICBEAUTYCONCEPT.COM yellow
Easy Long Conditioner Yellow’s Easy Long Conditioner works to strengthen and nourish lengths and ends to promote healthy hair. Apply to the lengths and ends of damp hair, and leave in for two to three minutes before rinsing. Use two to three times a week for two months. | £11.95, YELLOWALFAPARFGROUP.COM paul mitchell
Invisiblewear Velvet Cream Soft as velvet with a satin finish, this hairsmoothing cream smoothes and tames hair with featherlight definition. Can be used on air-dried or blow-dried hair for effortless, undone style and softer hair. | £21.95, PAUL-MITCHELL.CO.UK ghd
platinum+ deep scarlet styler ghd have brought the platinum+ styler back in a provocative deep scarlet hue for a luscious limited edition of the award-winning tool. Featuring ultra-zone technology for consistent and bespoke results, the ghd platinum+ anticipates the needs of your hair based on thickness and styling speed to deliver flawless results, tailored specifically to your style. No matter your hair type or styling technique, enjoy a blissfully smooth styling experience and a salon-quality finish. | £199.00, GHDHAIR.COM
eleven australia
Miracle Spray Hair Treatment The same ELEVEN Miracle and benefits—now in a spray. ELEVEN Miracle Spray Hair Treatment is an all-in-one hair product that leaves hair strong, silky and smooth. Ideal for all hair types, this lightweight treatment spray has eleven different major benefits for your hair. | £16.00, ELEVEN–AUSTRALIA.CO.UK anti
Styling Spray Amp up your styling with this spray, providing volume and control—as well as a dose of moisture, heat protection and hold. Use on damp hair to prep for damage–free workable styling, or on dry hair for added protection and hold. | £30.00, ANTICOLLECTIVE.CO.UK monat
Reshape Root Lifter Whether you will be able to achieve the wanted hairstyle, everything starts and depends on the roots of your hair. Achieving long-lasting and high-impact hairstyle with high volume can be tricky, but not anymore as Monat has produced a non-sticky formula for root lifter that will help you naturally achieve a voluminous style. | £30.00, MONATGLOBAL.COM takara belmont
Dainty With its sleek design, supremely comfortable upholstery, 360 lockable rotation and a reclining backrest to ease clients into the most comfortable position, the Dainty grooming chair ticks all the boxes. Functional and versatile, the Dainty also features an adjustable and removable headrest, upholstered padded armrests and a footrest. Add a premium touch to your shop and customise the Dainty with a range of upholstery options, including contrasting piping, and upgrade to a hydraulic or a motorised base to enhance your customers’ grooming experience. | £1,185.00–£1,545.00, CALL 020 7515 0333 OR VISIT TAKARAHAIRDRESSING.CO.UK
ProductNV
Hair Products THIS MONTH, SALONNV BRINGS YOU ESSENTIAL HAIR CARE, STYLING AND TREATMENTS FROM KERATIN COMPLEX, JOICO, SCHWARZKOPF AND MORE.
keratin complex
VitalShot Vital Shot rebuilds and repairs the bonds of the hair in one step. Versatile and flexible, it can be used alone, with a masque or in all colour and lightening services—with no added processing time or formula change. | $34.00, KERATINCOMPLEX.COM joico
Life Violet Meet the ultra-violet duo that’s here to help blondes keep their cool. The new brassneutralizing Blonde Life Violet Shampoo and Conditioner instantly cool brassy tones and brighten cool blonde hair, they help maintain healthy looking hair with brilliant shine and nourish and protect fragile blonde hair. | £17.50/£18.50, JOICO.EU schwarzkopf professional
Chroma ID The Chroma ID by Schwarzkopf is a range of innovative, versatile hair masks that offer more than just deep care. The hair treatment contains temporary colour pigments that last up to 15 washes. Thanks to the Bond Enforcing Technology, the hair fibres are repaired while new ones are created. Chroma ID is available in the most popular Igora Royal shades and can be used for colour refreshment and enhancement. | SCHWARZKOPF–PROFESSIONAL.COM
l’oréal professionnel source essentielle
Nourishing Balm Treat dry, damaged hair to the benefits of L’Oréal Professionnel Source Essentielle Dry Hair Balm; a deeply nourishing treatment that can be used daily to maintain soft, silky locks. Enriched with Sesame, Sunflower and Argan Oils, the reparative hair mask replenishes and revitalises, whilst restoring suppleness and shine from root to tip. Works in just five minutes to leave tresses feeling restored with minimised frizz and a salon-worthy finish. | LOREALPROFESSIONNEL.CO.UK saco
Densifying Shampoo An advanced technology complex, perfect for fine and thinning hair. This Superfood formula deeply cleanses both hair and scalp to promote hair growth and leave hair feeling thicker and stronger. Enriched with Amla, Biotin and Saw Palmetto extract to densify the hair, clearing follicles and leaving hair and scalp refreshed. | £19.00, BEAUTYREBEL.STORE paul mitchell
Cream XG Developed in Italy, this creamy durable vegan colour tones, refreshes, blends greys and so much more. With gorgeous depth, dimension and shine, Paul Mitchell’s Cream XG is the perfect addition to any colour service. | £6.57, PAUL–MITCHELL.CO.UK innoluxe
Platinum Shampoo INNOluxe Platinum Shampoo is a sulphatefree, deep purple shampoo which neutralises brassiness and unwanted yellow pigments in highlighted, colour-processed blonde, and natural grey/white hair. Violet pigments restore a perfect blonde tone, extending the life of colour treatments. Protecting against environmental aggressors, the combination of Vitamins B5 and E replenishes the hair, adding shine, strength and vitality—completely cruelty-free. | £21.00, JUSTMYLOOK.COM
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ProductNV
Other Products YOUR CLIENTS DESERVES THE BEST TREATMENT WITH THE BEST PRODUCTS SO HERE’S SOME GREAT OFFERINGS FROM UP–AND–COMERS LIKE HOLLYWOOD BROWZER AND BIG NAMES LIKE ELEMIS.
hollywood browzer
Duo Value Pack Labelled as one of Hollywood’s best-kept secrets, the Browzer is the talk of celebrity makeup artists for hair removal, shaping and dermaplaning. The Browzer promises to achieve smooth, hair-free skin in seconds with none of the pain of waxing, threading or tweezing. Each Browzer lasts for around two to three months. | £14.95, HOLLYWOODBROWZER.COM war paint for men
Tinted Moisturiser War Paint is a makeup brand for men that seeks to disrupt stereotypes around men wearing makeup. Compared to a traditional tinted cream, which is a cream with a very light tint, this Tinted Moisturiser is a foundation, moisturiser and concealer skincare product all in one. It does a good job of all of these so is a great product to quickly apply and go. | £22.00, WARPAINTFORMEN.COM elemis
Pro–Collagen Celebration Duo This is the ultimate—and limited edition—antiageing duo for firmer-looking skin. Celebrating 30 years of innovation, Elemis’ brand-new, invigorating Pro-Collagen Neroli Cleansing Balm meets our original anti-ageing icon, ProCollagen Marine Cream. This celebratory limited edition collection includes: Pro-Collagen Marine Cream 50ml, new Pro-Collagen Neroli Cleansing Balm 105g and Luxury Cleansing Cloth. | £95.00. ELEMIS.COM gellux
Daisy Chain Flower Power Range The new GELLUX Daisy Chain Flower Power range is perfect for the ultimate hippy chick or anyone celebrating the coming of Spring. Embrace the flower power vibes with the pastel and vibrant shades. | £11.95 EXC VAT, SALONSDIRECT.COM
Furniture
SPRUCE UP YOUR SALON WITH THESE STYLISH PIECES OF FURNITURE FROM THE EXPERTS— NELSON MOBILIER, NILA AND REM.
nelson mobilier
Krystal Wall Styling Unit This gorgeous unit features integrated sockets and hairdryer holders in polished aluminium. Two large double-sided mirrors stand alone on top of the unit giving the Krystal its contemporary look. The main structure of the Krystal styling unit is finished in a quality laminate which is available in a large range of Nelson Mobilier colours. This allows you to design your styling unit to best match your business. | £850.00–1,860.00 EXC VAT, DIRECTSALONFURNITURE.CO.UK nilo spa design
Musette Reclining Makeup Chair The Nilo Spa Design Musette Reclining Makeup Chair is a rotating chair with extended headrest, fitted with safe locking system, footrest and reclining backrest. The entire chair is padded in high comfort material and PU softcover. The chair is available in a wide range of colours and is equipped with adjustable Opera base. | £POA, 0118 932 3500 OR TERRY@LACEYS.BIZ rem
Concorde Nail Station The REM Concorde Nail Station is a single position station with a storage leg containing two removable plastic trays. Also available as a single position unit without storage or as a two-position unit with or without storage. Concorde is available in a choice of over 20 colours from the REM range. | £855.00 EXC VAT, SALONSDIRECT.COM
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OpinionNV
Does your salon need variety? Emil McMahon talks about stocking a wide range of products
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’m an avid shopper, be it online or in store. I enjoy the experience of browsing products and—invariably— purchasing something. I am one of many shopaholics and we all like to shop. That’s something hairdressing salons don’t seem to capitalise on. I have visited very few salons that have a ‘shopper’s paradise’ for their clients to leisurely shop in. There are a few, but mostly I see small retail areas usually carrying one or two brands from the same supplier. Serious salon retailers know that their clients want to look at lots of different products, buy on impulse and on the recommendations of their hairdresser. We also like to have products that have different price structures, from something very affordable that we can buy on a whim, something mid-market that serves our everyday needs and something high end that we can aspire to or buy when we are treating ourselves. We also want variety, that’s why online and superstores have vast collections of products to entice us. So what can you do to change your retail area to make it more appealing to a broader range of customers and lets clients feel comfortable shopping in your salon.
1 Look at stocking something new and exciting, some affordable products and some luxury items. 2 Open up your retail area wherever possible to make browsing feel like a natural experience for the client. 3 Price everything clearly, this helps the client when making choices about products. 4 Always have some products on special offer, supermarkets, chemists and online platforms always do this. 5 Keep your shelves stocked up, this increases your stock spend but, guaranteed, it will increase your retail sales as well. 6 Make sure you have a selection of equipment, brushes, combs, dryers etc and remind your clients use these products at home too. 7 Keep your retail space clean and tidy. 8 Provide information about the products you carry
at the reception area and styling stations. 9 Have testers readily available, shoppers love to feel, play and smell products. 10 Share information and images of your products on all of your social platforms. There are many exciting brands that salons can stock now—from established stalwarts to exciting new products from up–and–comers— and the greater the selection, the greater the results you will achieve. Schwarzkopf is bringing a new dimension to mid-priced and high-end hair care. Balmain Paris Hair Couture is a definite if you need a luxury range for your salon. Moroccanoil is a very aspirational brand that clients are aware of. Eleven Australia is another brand making waves (pun, as always, intended) as is Windle London. Joico, a long-established brand is creating a new vibe in professional haircare and the very cool My. Haircare continues to push forward with innovative collections. Also, make sure to check out id Hair, a brand that is creating a stir with their portfolio of brands. Of course, upping the ante on your retail offering does require some investment, but every company is out there trying to secure more business, so I guess that they will help you in any way they possibly can to grow your retail sales. Put the effort into your retail offering and your business will categorically benefit because we shoppers will enjoy the experience of browsing and purchasing whilst in the salon.
• Emil McMahon offers bespoke training on all aspects of salon life, and has published a book ‘Don’t Sell’ about retailing, available at emilmcmahon.com. • Contact emil_mcm@hotmail.com for more information.
The art and design in hair Gemma Willock–Smith talks cutting shapes on the barber floor
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air tattooing has always intrigued me, being an 80s kid born in South London and brought up in the 90s with borders and Nike ticks on the backs and sides of boys’ hair all around me. I was 12-years-old when I gave it a go myself. I shaved off one of my mates’ hair with his dad’s clippers, then got a nice razor to put patterns all over his head. At the time we both thought it was amazing but looking back was probably—most definitely—awful! His mum was not impressed and took him to the barbers the next day to get a baldy. When I became a barber, my passion for it grew. Anyone who had any knowledge about how to do them, I would headlock and absorb everything I could. The best advice I was ever given was to study shapes and learn about reversing, and positive and negative image—I’ll explain that later. Once I was satisfied that I had absorbed enough, I got model after model until I was happy enough with my skill to let loose on clients. Just like every other part of our career. For me, there are four main things I would advise when learning how to tattoo hair: 1 Use a t-liner blade on your trimmer, my favourite is the new Wahl cordless detailers. 2 Know how to use your tools, practice tiny burst fades, a cutthroat and use the corners of your trimmers. This will all come in handy when detailing. 3 Be aware of the reverse. A lot of people think if they can draw they can do hair tattoos. However, I got a A in art and this is a whole different ball game at first. Drawing on paper you are adding a positive to a negative—ink/lead being the positive and paper being the negative—it is very easy to
IMAGE COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK
start seeing the details, however when you are doing a hair tattoo you are removing the negative and leaving the positive. It’s more important most of the time about the shape that is left behind. For example, if for instance you are doing a portrait of somebody, drawing it you would be putting all the details in with the pen or pencil, when you are doing this on hair you will be removing all the vacant space around the detail. In order to leave behind let’s say the detail of the eyes. 4 Before you start you need the level of hair to be a good length to work with. I always shave it down to a 2-1.1/2 depending on depth and density. Thick hair can be hard to shape if it’s too long and if you shave the hair too short you will lose a lot of detail. Then sometimes if it is too light I will colour it a little darker to make to tattoo pop. Good luck to anybody wanting to learn. I’m based in Glasgow, Scotland and do one day courses on this subject. So anybody needing help know that it is here. Gemma on Instagram • Follow @gws_barber and @frequencybarber to learn more.
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A reason for Josie to be JoiFull Josie Smith
takes in JOICO’s JoiFull launch event at Duck & Dry, London.
LAST MONTH, SALONNV CONTRIBUTOR, SHABA HOST AND LIMP/FINE HAIR OWNER, JOSIE SMITH (@MISSJOSEPHINESMITH) WENT TO JOICO’S JOIFULL PRESS BREAKFAST AND BLOWDRY AT DUCK & DRY, LONDON.
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trangely, I had no trouble getting out of bed on this particular day, when I knew I was going to get fed—Joe & the Juice, Platter London, Smashed avocado toast, Vegan mocha banana bread—and that I would be putting my troublesome tresses in someone else’s expert hands. Duck & Dry is “the brand behind the finest blow dries and updos in London”. Their blow dry bars are known for their energy and buzz—as a go-to place for great hair and a great time. The salon has five locations including Chelsea, Oxford Circus, Mayfair and Spitalfields, featuring a fun vibe and stylish interiors. Recently the brand introduced a Beauty Collective concept, featuring sister brands Duck & File nail bar and Duck & Pluck brow bar, in select stores—you can book an appointment at duckanddry.com The event was to launch JOICO’s new JoiFull range. The official position is JOICO has eight innovative product lines with over 50 products for all the haircare you could need. Apart from shampoos and conditioners, JOICO’s range includes treatments, masks, smoothers, gloss and so much more. Whatever you need, they’ve got it! Most of us— especially me—dream of big, bouncy hair, brimming with body. JOICO claims its new products will make this a reality for fine, thin hair like mine and that I’ll be able to achieve a voluminous look at home. This latest range is a transformative trio of liquids— JoiFull Volumizing Shampoo, Conditioner and Styler. “Long-lasting, full, lush, and manageable strands come to life, minus the crunchy, sticky residue typical of most volumizing products. JoiFull creates the kind of naturallooking and touchable volume that builds confidence as well as fullness.” Essentially, JOICO declared all my hair dreams will come true via their comprehensive and cohesive three-step
system. Firstly, the shampoo cleanses to build the foundation for the fullness. The conditioner is there for healthy volume and protection and then you power up big-time with one gamechanging styler—which is a clear serum. You’re absolutely encouraged and advised to use the JoiFull Volumising Shampoo, Conditioner and Styler as a system to ensure the additional promise of 24-hour style retention, long-lasting humidity protection and instantaneous shine. After receiving a warm welcome and briefing from the JOICO team, and eating more complimentary breakfast than could be considered polite in professional company, I was introduced to Patrick Devlin (@leepatrickdevlin)—a member of the Paul Watts Hairdressing Team (@paulwattshair). Paul Watts Hair is based in Northamptonshire and is firm advocates of the JoiFull range. I left it up to Patrick to do as he pleased with my unwashed and unbrushed mane, and after a relaxing wash and condition with the new JoiFull range, he took his time and styled my hair. I have to say, without any backcombing or teasing, my look was fuller than normal. Patrick styled it in a way I don’t often—he made it quite flicky and textured, but the results were a nice surprise, and I was really happy with how my do turned out. I felt “the joi of healthy hair”, JOICO’s inspiring slogan. • Find out more about JOICO and all its ranges at joico.eu. If your preferred salon doesn’t currently stock the JoiFull range, it’s available online from various beauty companies, and of course at amazon.co.uk.
Looking forward to autumn style Michael Moran tells us what clients want for the season
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kay, so we are now able to put the start of the year behind us and start preparing for the Autumn. I have found that clients are starting to put their brave pants on during Autumn months and the season is an opportunity for us hairdressers to introduce some exciting new ideas to them. Whether it’s braving a cool new cut or a bolder colour, it’s often up to us to spend that wee bit extra time on their consultations. This ensures that the client knows that you are 100 per cent invested in making them look the absolute best they can and not just a trim. Therefore, ideally, our clients all leave happy and our totals increase—so everyone wins. We all have that particular client who won’t budge in terms of style or colour. However, in my
experience, it’s still worth going over it with them because sometimes you actually get a surprise. All it took was an extra few minutes and some loaded questions about their home haircare or their lifestyle changes or perhaps us referring to a particular look that they would REALLY suit— that such and such an actress has. More often than not I lean towards beautiful warm tones like rich coppers and auburns, as well as soft waves. These can normally be achieved without any distress to the hair and have a distinct sheen to them. We also are happy to suggest either a less expensive followup colour refreshing treatment to be done in the salon or sell it, so the client can do it at home. Have some staff members, whether it’s assistants or senior staff, wearing these looks to help promote it and most importantly have fun!
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I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H
SO IT BEGINS.. Have you or your salon entered #SHABAX yet? Registration is open now for the 10th anniversary of Scotland’s best hair and beauty awards and won’t close until the end of April. So you have plenty of time to prepare yourself for the biggest night of the Scottish hair and beauty calendar. Last year over 100,000 votes were cast to decide the finalists for the ninth Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards and we expect the figure to be even higher for 2020. Make sure to sign yourself up for a chance to be a part of SHABA history. The night will bring the industry’s brightest stars under one roof to celebrate the best of the best, mingle, and network. There will be a whole host of names, not just from the Scottish beauty sector, but professionals from across the UK. SHABA is a one–of–a–kind night that continues to flourish every year. SHABA’s team of expert judges will use all of the experience at their disposal to make an informed call on the finalists. They will look at the quality and consistency of work and customer service skills, so just remember that reputations will not precede you and nothing will slip by the panel. Visit the SHABA website at scottishhairandbeautyawards.com for more information on categories and how to enter.
W NO TE R GIS RE
KATRINA SLOAN & PETER MELLON OF MEDUSA EDINBURGH, WINNING BEST FEMALE STYLIST & BEST MALE STYLIST
TICKETS OUT NOW
16-17 May Ready for the ultimate barber event? Amsterdam Gashouder, Westergas tickets out now barbersocietylive.com @barbersocietylive
