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FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC The season of celebration is just around the corner, folks! Get ready to bring a bit of glitz and glamour to your wardrobes (and your homes) because, when it comes to Christmas more is definitely more. The Meghan party dress is elegant and super-comfortable, perfect for dancing the night away. For daytime soirées, try our patternless faux leather skirt (très chic!) and refashioned bobble hat. Your wardrobe will be bursting at the seams with glamorous winter me-mades in no time at all! And for your home, don’t miss our set of classic monochrome makes − honestly, Christmas decorations have never looked so stylish. It’s cold outside, so let’s cosy-up and let the seasonal sewing commence! Share your makes with us using #simplysewingmag
star e v i t e fes g, p18 k a M untin b
ISSUE FORTY EIGHT
FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC
CONTENTS
ew he Dress,Mpeghan 30
P18 STYLISH MONOCHROME
grEat pAtterNs foR you
how To...
18 MONOCHROME CHRISTMAS
41 WORKSHOP: SEW WITH JERSEY
30 PATTERN: THE MEGHAN DRESS
Learn the technique and sew yourself
34 PATTERNLESS CIRCLE SKIRT
a go-with-anything jersey poncho
38 QUICK FIX: STITCHED EARRINGS
69 EMBROIDERY: STITCHED BAUBLES
45 PATTERN HACK: EVENING TOP
Learn woven cross stitch and make
51 WASH BAG GIFT IDEA
a set of felt Christmas decorations
53 QUICK-SEW NAIL FILE COVERS
89 SEWING GUIDE
55 QUILTED SHOPPER BAG
Tips, techniques and
63 REFASHIONED BOBBLE HAT
a glossary
65 PATCHWORK QUILT AND PILLOW 71 FABRIC TREE DECORATIONS 85 GINGERBREAD HOUSE TOY
78
et cHristMas-rEady With Tips rom seWing QuarteR DesIgNers
Stitch a toy that ill be treasured fr y to come, p85 ears
38
65
Too sOon fOr tiNsel
63
14 to win! GiaNt FabRic BunDle WorTh £250! Your chance to win £250 worth of us dressmaking fabrics from Girl Charlee.. dressm
Turn to p14
It's hard to get in the mood for Christmas when the autumn sun is h still shining (which it is as I type this!),, but as a fellow sewist you'll know what it means to start sewing early for the big event. Sewing Quarter's top designers share their tips for getting prepared on page 78. And we've got some great ideas for your handmade Christmas, too. Make a stylish set of decorations (p18), party dress (p30), faux leather skirt (p34) and quick-sew bobble hat (p63) – my fave! Share your makes using #simplysew simpl sewingmag
Charlie Moorby, Moorby Editor
34
goOd readS & ideaS
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CONTRIBUTORS A huge thank you to this talented lot...
FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC
EDITOR Charlie Moorby SENIOR ART EDITOR Lisa Jones PRODUCTION EDITOR Michelle Grady TECHNICAL EDITOR Roisin McKenna DIGITAL EDITOR Zoe Williams PHOTOGRAPHY Philip Sowels and Dave Caudery
Call 0117 300 8206 SENIOR ADVERTISING MANAGER Penny Stokes SENIOR SALES EXECUTIVE Tiffany Jackson CLIENT PARTNERSHIP MANAGER Beckie Pring
how joy seeing erns.” h c u m o s patt “I get terpret my others rein
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SUBSCRIPTIONS DIRECTOR Jacky Perales Morris DIRECT MARKETING EXECUTIVE Lily Nguyen HEAD OF NEWSTRADE MARKETING Natalie Shearer NEWSTRADE MARKETING MANAGER Helen Seymour Paul Torre, Karen Flannigan
FLORENCE KNAPP
LANA RED
Florence (aka Flossie Teacakes of www. lossieteacakes.blogspot.com) is an author, crafter and self-confessed homebody. Read all about her passion for slow crafting, English Paper Piecing, Liberty fabrics and more, on page 58.
Lana is the founder of the DIY and lifestyle blog, Lana Red Studio. When she’s not behind her sewing machine or camera, you will probably ind her cuddling her cats or twirling in a handmade dress. Try her stitched earrings DIY on page 38.
U JUNIOR PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Lily Owens Crossman PRODUCTION MANAGER Sîan Rodgers / Emma McGuinness PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Sarah Powell
DIRECTOR OF INTERNATIONAL LICENSING & SYNDICATION MANAGER Tim Hudson tim.hudson@immediate.co.uk INTERNATIONAL PARTNERS MANAGER Anna Brown anna.brown@immediate.co.uk
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BY WILLIAM GIBBONS
“Join the #sewingrevolution at www.jenniffertaylor.co.uk”
“Discover your new passi at www.raggedlife.com” on
JENNIFFER TAYLOR
ELSPETH JACKSON
Jennifer is the author of Girl with a Sewing Machine, a former contestant on The Great British Sewing Bee, and a designer for Sewing Quarter TV. Watch her online at www.sewingquarter.com and sew her bobble hat refashion on page 63.
Self-confessed fabric hoarder and colour-lover Elspeth Jackson teaches the art of rag rugging with her Ragged Life brand of beginner-friendly kits, launched in 2012. Learn how to make a set of fabric trees with her DIY project on page 71.
EDITORIAL TEAM simplysewing@immediate.co.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS TEAM simplysewing@buysubscriptions.com 03330 162 149
THURSDAY 1ST NOVEMBER 2018 No gift included? Ask your newsagent. Covergift may be unavailable overseas.
OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Anna Alicia, Lucy Brennan, Jo Carter, Sarah Dawson, Jessica Entwistle, Tone Finnanger, The Fold Line, Sarah Gane, Mollie Johanson, Portia Lawrie, Jennifer Taylor, Ditsy Tulip Special thanks to: Esther Curtis and Annelise Brant
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WATCH IT • LOVE IT • SEW IT
Sew your way to Christmas Day! Tune in for the launch of the official
Sewing Quarter Advent Calendar Our brand new, official advent calendar is the ultimate countdown to Christmas, filled with plenty of sewing treats for sewists of all abilities. Launching live on air this October for only £29.99. Sewing Quarter is the UK’s only television channel dedicated to Sewing and Quilting. Live on Freeview 73 and Sky 687 seven days a week. As an early festive treat, we’re offering you...
£5 OFF YOUR NEXT ORDER ENTER CODE SSOCT5 AT CHECKOUT www.SewingQuarter.com
*You will receive £5 Off your next order at www.sewingquarter.com or via our call centre. This offer applies to web and auction products when you enter code SSOCT5 at checkout. Offer is valid from 1st October 2018 until 31st December 2018. This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. For full T&C’s visit our website.
IDEAS
INSPIRATION
ACCESSORIES
WEBSITES
EVENTS
STUFF
WORK AND PLAY There are two things that can improve even the earliest of starts: coffee by the mugful, and a killer work outfit. And Sew Over It have got the latter covered with Lisa Comfort’s new My Capsule Wardrobe: Work to Weekend eBook. It has five patterns with 12 variations to take you seamlessly through the week, from smart office attire to laid-back brunch looks. Just add fabric, your sewing machine, and a latte (or two). £25, www.sewoverit.co.uk
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GOFORGOLD It’s time to sew for W
Wear it Well Yes, sewing is a superpower – not only can we whip up special frocks, but we can also create our very own capsule wardrobe for every day, too. We'll be adding Wearologie Patterns' Aestiva sleeveless vest to our newseason staples, perfect for layering up with me-made tees. Visit www.wearologie.com
the festive season! And that means glitz and gold is filling our to-make list, from statement frocks like this issue’s cover star (p30), to accessories to complete our memade ensembles. This glam time of year gives us the chance to play with metallic hardware in our craft projects, like Prym’s rose gold collection, which includes bag chains, cute clutch clasps, zip pulls and more in a swish rose colour for occasionready style. Find the range at www.sewing quarter.com, and tune in on Freeview 73 and Sky 687.
HIT REFRESH Our sister craft and lifestyle title Mollie Makes has had a shiny new makeover! Inside issue 98 you’ll still find all your Mollie faves, from home updates and studio tours to trend-spotting style pages, but with an even wider range of projects to try, including emerging crafts like weaving and rug hooking, along with a clean, contemprorary design inspired by today's crafting community. www.molliemakes.com
WORK SMART The morning commute doesn't feel like such a chore when we have a wardrobe of me-made 9-to-5 attire to choose from! Cloud9's new Business Class fabrics have got us inspired to add to our collection of smart shift dresses and bow blouses. Prints include retro florals, abstract dots and graphic lines with a mid-Century, Mad Men-esque vibe, in a rich autumnal colour palette of moss green, aubergine, zingy lime and inky navy blue. Each design is printed on ultra-soft rayon fabric with a lovely drape, so they'll be a joy to wear for a busy day at the office, or weekends when you want to feel a little fancy! See the collection at www.cloud9fabrics.com
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Working 9 to 5, what a way to make a living! Cloud9's new super-soft rayons are ideal for workwear.
Pinboard
SEW YOUR OWN ANIMAL DOLLS Louise Kelly (£12.99, CICO Books) Sew up a whole menagerie of characterful critters with Louise Kelly's second book, featuring 25 adorable animal designs to stitch. Choose from a fox, a sloth, a koala, a bear, a penguin, a deer and stag and more, with four basic body and head shapes and endless ways to make them unique, including cute clothes and accessories. www.rylandpeters.com
mini profile KAISA TURTIAINEN Bring a little joy to your wardrobe (and sewing stash) with Finnish designer Kaisa Turtiainen's whimsical clothes, accessories and fabrics. Breezy smock dresses, cute blouses and little purses and zip pouches are sewn up by Kaisa in her own bright retro prints, which are also available to buy by the half-metre. Kaisa's working life sounds pretty dreamy to us: while the summer tourists keep her busy – "in Savonlinna, where my shop and studio is, we have the famous Opera festival, so in July my working days are long, spent keeping the shop tidy and serving customers" – winter is her favourite season for being creative. "It's a peaceful, lovely time of year to do the real work," she explains. "I go to my studio daily and make commissions like wedding dresses, costumes for shows, and made-to-measure clothing for clients." Alongside working on these commissioned pieces, she keeps her shop updated with colourful delights. "I also do fabric design, make patterns, design the next collection, sew prototypes and update my website and webshop – there is always a lot of to do, because I do it mostly myself." Busy she may be, but she's loving every minute of it: "I never wanted to do anything else, it's my dream career. I started in 2007, when I was still at school studying clothing design. First, I made small products, like bags and soft jewellery, and sold them in my home town marketplace. I was just so passionate
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about making things with my hands!" When designing new prints and garments for her collection, "usually I sketch clothes that I would like to wear myself: simple, girlish, loose, comfortable clothes that are nice to sew, and that look fabulous! I love colours and fluttery hems." She also looks close to home for design ideas. "I adore Finnish nature and blooming flowers. Children’s books are also a great source of inspiration – I'm a huge fan of The Moomins and Alice in Wonderland." She's currently working on a small winter range, and is excited about what the future will bring for her business. "I hope I can keep doing this for as long as I have the passion for it. I'm going to concentrate more on my own fabric designs, which I'm very excited about." Her making motto is one we'll definitely be sewing by from now on: "Sew only lovely things! When I'm testing designs for the first time, if I don't like the fabric, or if the design is just too complicated to sew, it usually doesnt get into the collection. Sewing has such a big role in my life, that it better be easy and fun!" See more at www.kaisaturtiainen.com
"I design clothes I would like to wear myself: simple, comfortable clothes that look fabulous!"
IMPROPER CROSSSTITCH Haley Pierson-Cox (£14.99, St. Martin's Griffin) Try a cheeky twist on cross stitch with this fun book of 'improper' designs to sew. All the key techniques are covered in the how-to sections, so newbies will have no problem stitching the book's 35 naughty motifs. It might not be one to gift to young stitchers, but it's perfect for the young at heart! www.panmacmillan.com
MODERN PATCHWORK HOME Vivika DeNegre (£22.99, Krause Books) Fill your home with bright and beautiful patchwork from top designers with this compilation of projects. From stunning quilts, pillows and wall hangings to carry-all bags and a yoga mat, with over 20 things to sew included, you certainly won't be short of patchwork ideas. www.krausebooks.com
MINI HOOP EMBROIDERIES Sonia Lyne (£9.99, Search Press) Stitch oh-so-pretty designs in miniature with this book of sweet stitching ideas from Sonia Lyne, founder of Dandelyne. There are 60 tiny masterpieces to stitch – little hearts, teeny blooms, dainty bunting, rain clouds, abstract shapes, and more – which you can then turn into brooches and necklaces, or create a gallery of petite stitched hoops to hang in your home. www.searchpress.com
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Pinboard NEWFROMOLD Grab your scissors W
– The Refashioners annual upcycling challenge is back! Run by Simply Sewing regular Portia Lawrie, this is the 6th year stitchers have been breathing new life into old clothes, from men’s suits to denim jeans – for 2018, though, there’s no specific garment to hunt down in the second-hand shops. Instead, you just need to find a photo of a look you love, and then recreate it using existing clothing. That’s it! There’s an amazing sewing prize up for grabs, and it closes 31st October. Visit www.makery. co.uk for details.
DuvEt day When we’d much rather be tucked up with a hot chocolate than braving the cold running errands, we reach for the next best thing: a snuggly, oversized, duvet-like coat – and Pipe Dream Patterns’ Dùn Èideann might just be the cosiest of them all. A cocoon style with a big shawl collar, this is the coat our winter dreams are made of, but it can also be sewn in a lightweight fabric, too. www.pipedreampatterns.co.uk
3 of the best PLEATS PLEASE Dainty folds are this season's must-have design detail! Try the look with these pleated pretties. 1. Black velvet, tactile felt, pastel brights and soft pleats are the dreamiest combo! Earrings (£19.50) and necklace (£29.50), both www.oliverbonas.com 2. Named after one of our favourite flavours, Coco Wawa Craft's Cinnamon Trousers are as sweet as they come, with pleated details at the pockets and hems. PDF pattern £10, www.cocowawacrafts.com 3. It's easy to lose track of time when we're in the stitching zone, so a statement clock is a craft room essential (not that we'll spend any less time sewing, of course!). £46.50, www.redcandy.co.uk
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PUDDINGPOMS Deck the halls with wreaths of pom poms, fa la la la! We'll be switching classic foliage, berries and pine cones for pom poms this Christmas with this fun pudding wreath craft kit from the Wool Couture Company. It comes with all you need to make a 36cm pom pom wreath, including four yarn shades and a wooden wreath frame, and you can have it ready to hang up in no time. Perfect for an impromptu Christmas crafternoon with the kids! Kit £19.99 from www.woolcouturecompany.com
Pinboard Jumper joy Cosy up in me-made style with these snuggly sweater patterns to add to your winter sewing list.
FASHION FORWARD Style stars of the future have been given the chance to design a pattern for The Maker’s Atelier’s new Design Studio project – and the future of fashion looks very bright indeed! The latest style by Madeline Robertson is a jumpsuit and dress we can totally see ourselves dancing the night away in at the office party. Visit www.themakersatelier.com
STRIPES AHOY It doesn't get better than bows and stripes – and six styles to make! Chestnut Sweater PDF £10, www.cocowawacrafts.com SECRET PYJAMAS This is a cult sewing blogger favourite for a reason – Coco is simple to sew, and as comfy as PJs! Pattern £12.50, shop.tillyandthe buttons.com
out & about
foRest Feast Add a touch of country charm to your dining table with Sophie Allport's new Woodland homewares. Designed in collaboration with the National Trust in celebration of Britain’s forest creatures, sweet illustrations of red squirrels, deer, pheasants, hedgehogs and owls adorn napkins, placemats, chair pads, mugs and more – and best of all, the print is also available as a fabric for us to get creative with ourselves! See the full range at www.sophieallport.com
SKILLS, SHOWS & EVENTS 1-4 NOVEMBER The Creative Craft Show. NEC Birmingham. A show for stitchers, knitters and hobbyists with workshops, demonstrations and new product launches. www.ichfevents.co.uk
NICE AND TOASTY Best stock up on knits: the aptly named Toaster Sweater is all we want to snuggle up in this winter. Approx £15, www. sewhouse7.com
8-11 NOVEMBER The Knitting & Stitching Show. RDS, Dublin. Find inspiration, learn new skills and shop for all your essential craft supplies. www. theknittingandstitchingshow.com Linden Sweatshirt
10 NOVEMBER Make your own advent calendar. The Makery, Bath. Get into the festive spirit and make an advent calendar in time for the Christmas countdown. www.themakery.co.uk
UNTIL 20 JANUARY 2019
We don't know what's more delicious – the food, or the fabric!
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Cecil Beaton: Thirty from the 30s. Fashion & Textile Museum, London. A display of Cecil Beaton’s most iconic photograph portraits, featuring subjects including Salvador Dali and Katharine Hepburn. www.ftmlondon.org
S t y l e N u m b e r 11 0 0 5 | S i ze s 0 1 8 | B e g i n n e r
With its graceful scooped neckl ne and relaxed fit the L nden is an update on a classic style V ew A features long sleeves with cufs and falls to mid hip View B hits at the high hip and has short sleeves Mix and match the s eeve and body engths to create your perfect sweatsh rt!
grainlinestudio.com
COSY CUTE Don't forget the kids! They'll love running around in the Briar sweater, which can be made as a T-shirt, too. Approx £13, www. megannielsen.com
NO SWEAT Grainline's classic sweatshirt style, with design details to mix and match, is great for weekend lounging. Approx £13, www.grainline studio.com
Win £250 WORTH OF FABRICS! Enter now for your chance to win £250 worth of gorgeous fabrics for your dressmaking stash!
Prizeh wort
0 5 2 £
hen it comes to winter sewing, there’s no doubting that the humble jersey fabric really takes centre stage. From coats and dresses to throw-over-anything ponchos (see page 41), these glorious stretchy fibres are made for comfort and style. This month we’ve teamed-up with our favourite knit fabric retailer Girl Charlee to put together this bumper bundle of fabrics for your stash – worth a whopping £250! There are over 20 metres of fabric in the prize, which includes cotton jersey, cotton spandex, french terry,
double knit hacci, rib knit and even some luxurious faux leather, so there really is something for every outfit! What’s best, they’re all handily cut to one, two, and three metre lengths so you could sew everything from vests and babygrows, to sweatshirts and dresses with these beauties. Girl Charlee add brand new knit fabrics to their collection every week, see them all at www.girlcharlee.co.uk (don’t forget to sign up for their newsletter!) or follow them on Instagram/Twitter (@girlcharleeuk) to see all their latest designs and offers.
See www.simplysewingmag.com to enter today! (Delivery to UK only, see competition rules on p6.)
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modern christmas
fresh & festive Give your home a stylish Christmas makeover with decorations in sophisticated monochrome prints. Designers: MICHELLE GRADY & REBECCA REID Styling: LISA JONES Photography: PHILIP SOWELS
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Star BunTing Newbie sewists will love making bunting stars – they're quick to sew and are great for using up scraps of fabric from your stash. Sew onto string to make a garland for your fireplace, or onto individual ribbons to hang in a window, or on your tree. You could even add lavender and gift them as scented drawer sachets. What's the best thing about fabric decorations? It doesn't matter if the cat gets them.
pom pom CusHion Every living room has its fair share of cushions (we can't get enough of them), but are any of them triangle-shaped? Display your favourite festive prints in an unique way with an eye-catching cushion, complete with handmade pom poms. It's guaranteed to be a talking point when the family comes to visit. And if you're short on present ideas, make some for the kid's bedrooms – they're too fun not to try!
modern christmas
Easy-sew StoCkIngs No Christmas mantelpiece would be complete without stockings, and nothing quite beats making them by hand for your family. These easy-sew designs make the most of showcasing stylish fabric prints, whilst being simple enough to whip up in an afternoon. Get the kids involved in choosing their favourite fabrics, or embellish with embroidered initials for a special gift.
CirCle rug Try this clever technique using rope to sew a durable rug that will prove to be a pretty and practical addition to your living room. No more marks in your carpet from the Christmas tree! (Your pets will enjoy snuggling-up on this in front of the fire, too!). This is a great stashbusting project to try just in time to make space for all the new fabrics Father Christmas is going to bring.
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modern christmas
Tree HolDer Hide ugly plastic plant pots with this clever sack design and transform the base of your tree into a decoration in its own right! This fabric cover-up is a genius way to tie your tree base into your festive colour scheme whilst making the most of showing off your sewing skills. Better still, it can be easily washed and used again year after year. Ooh, we do love a practical sewing project.
FabRic WreAth Make the most of your leftover fabric scraps (we know you have a drawer full!) and make a contemporary Christmas wreath. We've stuck with fabric for ours, but there's nothing stopping you sewing on embellishments – we're thinking mini baubles! This lightweight design can be easily mounted onto a wall or door and, unlike the real thing, won't drop needles everywhere!
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Tree holder YOU WILL NEED Q Main fabric: 35x57cm (13¾x22½in) Q Lining fabric: 35x64cm (13¾x25¼in) Q Medium-weight iron-on interfacing: 32x20cm (125⁄8x77⁄8in) Q 2oz wadding: 35x57cm (13¾x22½in) Q Erasable fabric marker Q Matching thread Q Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED The fabrics used are from the White Christmas collection by Zen Chic for Moda Fabrics. Leaves, White. Ref: 1653 11M. Little Dots, White. Ref: 1654 11M. For stockists visit www.unitednotions.com NOTE Q Use a 1cm seam allowance.
CUTTING OUT Step one From the main fabric cut: Body outer: Cut two pieces measuring 31.5x18cm (123⁄8x71⁄8in). Base outer: Cut a 20cm (77⁄8in) diameter circle. Step two From the lining fabric cut: Body lining: Cut two pieces measuring 31.5x18cm (123⁄8x71⁄8in). Base lining: Cut a 20cm (77⁄8in) diameter circle. Contrast band: Cut four pieces measuring 31.5x10cm (123⁄8x4in). Ties: Cut two strips measuring 65x6cm (255⁄8x23⁄8in). Step three From the wadding cut: Outer: Cut two pieces measuring 31.5x18cm (123⁄8x71⁄8in). Base: Cut a 20cm (77⁄8in) diameter circle. Step four From the iron-on interfacing cut: Contrast band: Cut two pieces measuring 31.5x10cm (123⁄8x4in).
MAKING THE BODY OUTER Step one Take the body outer pieces and pin them right sides (RS) together down both short edges. Sew together and press the seams open. Step two Fold the base outer piece in half, and then in half again, and mark these quarter points using an erasable fabric marker. Do the same for the assembled body outer.
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Step three Pin the base to the outer with RS together, matching your marked quarter points, then sew together all the way around and press. Step four Clip notches in the seam allowance all the way around the base, being careful not to cut into your stitching.
MAKING THE BODY LINING Step one Take one of the outer wadding pieces and place one of the body lining pieces RS up on top. Place the other body lining piece RS down on top, followed by the other piece of wadding. Pin or clip together down both short edges. Sew together, but leaving a turning gap along one of the short edges, then press. Step two Mark the quarter points on the body lining and base lining pieces as for the body outer. Step three Take the base wadding piece and place the base lining piece wrong sides (WS) down on top, then pin the base lining and wadding RS together to the body lining as for the outer, matching up your quarter points. Sew together all the way around and press. Clip notches. 01
MAKING THE CONTRAST BAND Step one Take two contrast band pieces and place them RS together, aligning the raw edges. Pin and sew together down the two short edges, leaving a 3cm (1¼in) gap 4.5cm (17⁄8in) down from the top
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long edge for the channel. This will be the contrast band outer. 02 Step two Press the iron-on interfacing to the other two contrast band pieces. Step three Pin and sew the interfaced pieces together along the two short edges as before, but without leaving a gap. This will be the contrast band lining. 03
MAKING THE TIES Step one Take one of the tie pieces and fold it in half lengthways. Pin together along the short edges and along the length. Step two Sew together, but leaving a 10cm (4in) turning gap in the centre of the long edge. 04 Step three Turn the tie RS out through the turning gap and press. Step four Close the turning gap using a slip stitch. Step five Repeat to make the other tie.
place to neaten. 05 Step three Repeat with the contrast band lining and body lining. 06 Step four Turn the assembled body lining WS out and slip the body outer inside it so they are RS together. Pin and sew together all the way around the top edge. Step five Carefully turn the assembled tree holder RS out through the turning gap in the lining, then stitch the turning gap closed using slip stitch. Step six Push the lining inside the outer, press and then neatly topstitch around the top edge.
FINISHING OFF Step one To create the channel for the ties, topstitch all the way around either side of the gap in the contrast band outer side seams. 07 Step two Attach a safety pin to one end of one of the ties. Tie a knot at the other end of the tie. Step three Thread the tie through the channel, starting at one of the side seams, through the channel then out at the other side seam. 08 Step four Remove the safety pin and tie a knot in the other end of the tie. Step five Repeat with the other tie to finish.
ASSEMBLING THE TREE HOLDER Step one Take the contrast band outer and body outer and slip the contrast band over the body outer so that they are RS together, aligning the side seams. Step two Pin and sew into place all the way around the top edge, then turn the contrast band RS out so it extends above the body outer. Press the seam up towards the contrast band and topstitch into
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Star bunting YOU WILL NEED Q Fabric: 20x40cm (8x16in), to make one small star; 30x40cm (12x16in), to make one large star Q Erasable fabric marker Q Polyester fibrefill Q Thick cotton thread, for hanging Q Matching thread Q Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED The fabrics used are from the White Christmas collection by Zen Chic for Moda Fabrics. For stockists visit www. unitednotions.com NOTES Q Use a 1cm (3⁄8in) seam allowance. Q Download the templates from www. simplysewingmag.com/downloads
PREPARING THE FABRIC Step one Download, print and cut out the star template. There are two sizes of star to choose from. The instructions for making both sizes are the same. Step two Cut your fabric into two equal pieces. Place the star template centrally on the wrong side (WS) of one of the pieces and carefully trace around it using an erasable fabric marker.
SEWING THE STAR Step one Lay the piece of fabric without the drawn star right sides (RS) up, then place the piece with the drawn star RS down on top and pin together within the star. Step two Sew all the way around the drawn outline, sewing along the marked lines, but leaving a turning gap along one side. Step three Trim away the excess fabric, approx 1cm (3⁄8in) outside your sewn line. 01 Step four Clip across the points and snip into the inner corners of the star, being careful not to cut into your stitching. 02 Step five Turn the star RS out, using a knitting needle or tapestry needle to help you turn out the points, and press.
FILLING THE STAR Step one Fill the star with the polyester fibrefill.
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Stuff each of the points first, using a knitting needle to help you work the stuffing into each of the corners before filling the rest of the star. Step two Once your star is stuffed to your desired firmness, slip stitch the turning gap closed. 03
MAKING THE BUNTING Step one Cut a length of thick cotton thread for hanging your stars. We made seven stars and cut the cotton thread to approx 1m (3⁄8in), spacing our stars approx 14cm (6in) apart. Alternatively, you could use narrow ribbon. Step two Thread one end of the thread through a sewing needle. At the other end, tie a loop for hanging the bunting. Step three Insert your needle into a star and then bring it out of the other side, around 4cm (15⁄8in) down from the top point. Insert your needle close to, but not through, the seam. 04 Step four To hold each star into place, sew a small stitch before threading the cotton thread through the star, then insert your needle through the star and sew another small stitch on the other side. This is to prevent the stars from sliding along the thread when complete. Skip this step if you'd like to be able to move your stars along the thread to change the look of your bunting. Step five Tie a loop for hanging at the other end of the thread to finish.
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Pom pom cushion YOU WILL NEED Q Main fabric: 50x100cm (20x40in) Q Black yarn, for the pom poms Q Polyester fibrefill Q Pom pom maker Q Matching thread Q Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED The fabric used is from the White Christmas collection by Zen Chic for Moda Fabrics. Mistletoe, White. Ref: 1656 11M. For stockists visit www. unitednotions.com NOTES Q Use a 1cm (3â „8in) seam allowance. Q Download the template from www. simplysewingmag.com/downloads
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CUTTING OUT Step one Download, print and cut out the template for the cushion front/back. Step two From the main fabric: Cushion front/back: cut two using the template.
MAKING THE CUSHION Step one Place the cushion front and back pieces right sides (RS) together and pin. Step two Sew together all the way around, but leaving a 10cm (4in) gap along the centre of one edge. This will be used to turn the cushion through to the RS when sewn. 01 Step three Cut across the corners, being careful not to cut into your stitching. 02 Step four Turn the cushion RS and press.
FINISHING OFF Step one Stuff the cushion with the filling until you reach your desired firmness. Using a knitting needle will help you work the stuffing into the corners first before filling the rest of the cushion. Step two Close your turning gap using a neat hand slip stitch. 03 Step three Using your pom pom maker, make three pom poms. Step four Thread a needle and, using a matching thread, securely hand-sew a pom pom onto each of the points to finish. 04
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Stocking YOU WILL NEED Q Main fabric: 50x112cm (20x44in) Q Contrast fabric: 20x40cm (8x16in) Q Matching thread Q Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED The fabrics used are from the White Christmas collection by Zen Chic for Moda Fabrics. Stars, White. Ref: 1657 19M. Leaves, White. Ref: 1653 11M. Leaves, Black. Ref: 1653 15M. Mistletoe, Black. Ref: 1656 15M. Trees, White. Ref: 1655 11M. For stockists visit www. unitednotions.com NOTES Q Use a 1cm (3⁄8in) seam allowance. Q Download the template from www. simplysewingmag.com/downloads
CUTTING OUT Step one Download, print and cut out the stocking template. Step two From the main fabric cut: Stocking: Cut two pairs using the template. Hanging loop: Cut two strips measuring 31x5cm (12¼x2in). Step three From the contrast fabric cut: Cuff: Cut one 35.5x17cm (14x6¾in) rectangle.
MAKING THE STOCKING BODY Step one Pin two mirror-image stocking pieces right sides (RS) together. Sew together all the way around, but leaving the top straight edge open. Step two Clip inner curves and notch outer curves, then turn the stocking RS out and press. Step three Repeat with the other two stocking pieces to make the lining, but leaving a 10cm (4in) turning gap along the centre of one side.
ASSEMBLING THE STOCKING Step one Turn the assembled stocking lining and cuff wrong sides (WS) out and slip the assembled outer and cuff inside it so they are RS facing. Pin and sew together all around the top of the cuff. Step two Turn the stocking RS out through the turning gap, then slip stitch the gap closed.
MAKING A HANGING LOOP Step one Fold the hanging loop piece in half lengthways and stitch together down the length. Step two Turn the loop RS out and press. Step three Fold the loop in half and pin the raw ends together, ensuring the loop isn't twisted. 01
ADDING THE CUFF Step one Fold one cuff piece in half widthways, RS together. Pin and stitch down the short edges to create a tube.
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Step two Repeat with the other cuff piece. Step three Take the outer stocking and one cuff tube. Slip the cuff over the outer stocking with RS together, matching the seam on the cuff with the heel side seam of the stocking, and pin together. Step four Sew all the way around. Pull the cuff RS out so it extends above the stocking outer. Press. Step five Repeat to join the other cuff to the stocking lining, but slip the hanging loop in between the cuff and the lining, centring the loop on the heel side seam and aligning the raw edges so that the hanging loop hangs downwards. 02
FINISHING OFF Step one Push the lining inside the stocking outer, press and topstitch all the way around the top edge of the cuff to neaten. 03 Step two Fold the cuff out to the RS of the stocking, but leaving approx 2cm of cuff at the inside of the stocking. Step three Fold the hanging loop upwards and slip stitch it to the inside of the cuff up both sides of the loop to hold it in place to finish. 04
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Circle Rug YOU WILL NEED Q Cotton fabric: see instructions for details Q Cotton rope: see instructions for details Q Jeans sewing machine needle Q Matching thread Q Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED The fabrics used are from the White Christmas collection by Zen Chic for Moda Fabrics. www.unitednotions.com NOTE We used a 4mm (¼in) diameter cotton rope, which you can buy from hardware stores. Our rug is 50cm (30in) in diameter and for this we used 40m (44yds) of rope. The fabric is cut into strips from a full width of 112cm (44in) fabric. On average, we found each strip covered 75cm (30in) of rope once wound. For our rug, we used 140cm (55in) of fabric in total cut from a selection of ten different fabrics.
CUTTING THE FABRIC Step one Start by cutting your chosen fabrics into 2.5cm (1in) strips, cut from the full width of fabric. As the rug gets bigger you will need to use more strips to make one full ring. Experiment with how to alternate the colours and how many rings of each you want. It’s best to start off by just cutting a few strips so you can see how they are arranged and how you want to alternate them. We added two full circles of each colour and alternated between lighter and darker tones.
stitching. Spend a little time getting all this right before you begin. Step four Set your machine to a zigzag stitch. Experiment to see exactly what size works best, we used a medium stitch length and a wide zigzag. The stitch needs to be wide enough to reach from the centre of one rope to the centre of another so they are stitched together securely.
SETTING UP YOUR MACHINE
STARTING OFF
Step one You will need a lot of thread to make this rug as it is all stitched together using a machine zigzag stitch. Ensure you have a good supply of thread that blends with your fabric. Step two As you’ll be stitching through the fabricbound cotton rope you need a needle that will withstand this without breaking. A jeans needle is ideal as it has a strong shank and a sharp point. Step three When stitching the rug together you must keep it flat. If you don’t then it will turn into a bowl as the coil will be sewn together at an angle and it’ll be impossible to flatten later. So, the bed of your machine needs to be the same level as the surface beside it. As the coil becomes larger and extends beyond the machine bed it needs to rest on a flat surface. One way to do this is to put your machine on a table which is lower than your bigger work surface or kitchen table so that it sits on this. Alternatively, an ironing board that you can adjust in height is perfect for placing beside your sewing table to rest the rug on as you are
Step one Cut a 3cm (1¼in) length of fabric off your first fabric strip and then fold this over the end of the rope. 01 Step two Now wrap the first strip around this folded-over piece to secure it in place. Step three Wrap the whole strip around the rope so that it overlaps enough to cover the rope, but not too much to make it bulky. 02 Step four Keep wrapping, gradually working your way down the rope. Use a fabric clip or pin to hold it in place at the end to stop it unravelling before you stitch. Step five Fold the top fabric bound end of the rope over by 2cm (¾in) then wind it into a coil and push a few pins into it. Step six Stitch the first part of the coil together by working a machine zigzag so it goes from one wrapped rope side to the other, joining them together. Having a few pins in this first section helps to keep it still whilst you start off but after this you can keep turning the coil and joining on
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new wrapped rope as you go. 03 Step seven Stitch the rug so that the main part of the rug is on the left of the machine needle as it won’t fit under the machine as it gets bigger.
WORKING THE RUG Step one When you reach near the end of the wrapped section of rope join in a new colour. Place one end of a new colour just under the end of the old colour and continue wrapping the rope in the same way. 04 Step two There are no set rules as to what colour to join where, but to keep a random effect change the order you add the new colours. As you finish each strip you’ll be able to see more easily which colour to add next to keep your rug random or even – whichever you prefer. Step three When you reach the end of one length of rope, to join in another simply butt the ends up. Stick them together with a strip of thin tape such as micropore tape then bind with fabric as before. The fabric binding and zigzag stitching will hold the two ends together – the tape is simply there to keep it still whilst you’re binding and stitching.
FINISHING OFF Step one When you come to the very end of your rope and fabric, or the rug is the size you want it to be, trim the fabric strip and tuck it under the binding so the end is covered. Machine zigzag into place to hold the folded-under end securely.
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PSST: fabric and
fo r f a e l r n, e Turn ov ling inspiratio ty r pa rty s e t o s h a r e y o u sur e b d Dre ss n a n a h g e M ďŹ nished plysewingmag #sim d e g g a t
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CovEr Star
the meghan DRESS Sew a slinky new frock for party season with The Meghan Dress in UK sizes 6-20, with cross-over and of-the-shoulder straps and two length options.
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TH m ghan DRESS It's our favourite time of year for sewing: party season! Which is the perfect excuse to go all out with glitz, glitter and sparkle to make this issue's cover star, The Meghan Dress – her slinky style is ideal for showcasing show-stopping fabrics. And, as Meghan is designed for stretch jersey, you'll be oh-so-comfy as you dance the night away! The pattern includes two elegant strap options – cross-over and off-the-shoulder – and knee and midi lengths to mix and match. From luxe sequins to plush velvets, statement prints to classic black – you'll want to make a Meghan in every colour, for every festive occasion!
TWO STYLES Choose from an on or off-shoulder neckline detail.
YOU WILL NEED Q Main fabric: Dress A: 115cm (45in) width x 3.4m (3¾yds) for all sizes Dress B: 115cm (45in) width x 2.4m (2¾yds) for all sizes Q Clear elastic: 10mm (3⁄8in) wide x 3.5m (4yds) Q Ballpoint needle Q Matching thread Q Basic sewing kit
EASY FIT A drapey style designed for jersey fabrics.
FABRIC SUGGESTIONS Medium-weight knit fabrics including viscose jersey, sequin jersey and stretch velvet. SEWING WITH JERSEY As always when working with jersey, the fit can change depending on how much stretch your chosen fabric has, so it's a good idea to make up a sample first to check the fit of your dress before sewing the real thing. For more tips and tricks for handling stretch fabrics, turn to our sewing with jersey workshop on page 41 of this issue, covering everything from calculating the stretch percentage of your fabric, to the best tools to use for a neat finish. You'll be a jersey pro in no time!
Two chi c sh styles a ulder nd lengths dress o make .
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TWO LENGTHS Make with a knee or midlength skirt.
wear it with
This super-soft bamboo jersey will be a dream to sew with (and to wear!), www.offsetwarehouse.com
Metallic Stretch Jersey, www.minervacrafts.com
Heavy metaL It's time to shine in gold, glitter and oh-so-glam leopard print. Finish an up 'do ith sparkly chandelier earrings, www.riverisland.com
Metallic Foil Cheetah, www.minervacrafts.com
Add texture and shine with a hammered cuff, £49.50 from www.oliverbonas.com
Lurex Metallic, www.minervacrafts.com
FABRIC INSPIRATION
party popper
Keep all the essentials in a glitter-ball clutch bag, £35, www.dunelondon.com
From a big festive bash to drinks with the girls, we'll take any excuse to ill up our stash with glitzy stretch fabrics.
Coats don't come any bolder than this leopardprint number, £85 from www.oasis-stores.com
Geometric Shapes In Grey, www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk
Try a new twist on the classic black court with heeled mules, £30, www.dorothyperkins.com
Art Deco Fans, www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk
Black & Ecru Paint, www.offsetwarehouse.com
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Pick a fabric with a luxurious drape, like this maroon jersey with a rayon feel from www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk
Sky-high heels are the height of chic (but pack a pair of flats fr home time!), £49 from www.office.co.uk
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no PatTern NeeDeD!
mistletoe & wine Make Portia Lawrie's swishy circle skirt from buttery-soft faux leather in a rich berry shade for a luxe party look.
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YOU WILL NEED
TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS
Q Main fabric: 3.5m (4yds), see instructions for measurements Q Contrast fabric for waistband facing, optional, see instructions for measurements Q Zip: 20cm (8in) Q Water-erasable fabric marker Q Teflon presser foot (if using faux leather fabric) Q Scotch tape
Step one Before starting, you will need to establish your waist measurement (W) and then perform the following calculations. These instructions are to make a ¾ circle skirt. The calculations would be different for full, half or quarter circle skirts.
SUGGESTED FABRICS Medium-weight fabric such as faux leather.
W = waist C = circumference D = diameter R = radius QC = quarter circle W x 1.33 = C (make a note of this number) then C ÷ 3.1415356592 (π) = D then D ÷ 2 = R (make a note of this number) then W ÷ 4 = QC (a quarter of your desired finished waist measurement).
CREATING THE PATTERN Step one Using a long ruler, draw a straight line on your pattern paper. 'Fan' the ruler out, using the start of your first line as a pivot point, and draw several more lines to create the fan shape. 01 Step two Along each of your drawn lines, mark a measurement from the pivot point that is equal to R which you made a note of earlier. Step three Join the dots up with a curved line –
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this will form the waistline curve. Mark out a section on this curved line that measures the same as your QC number and erase any lines that fall beyond this measurement. What’s left will form the basis of your skirt pattern piece and represents one quarter of the finished garment. 02 Step four Measuring from the waistline curve, along each line mark a point equal to the desired finished length of the skirt. For a knee-length skirt, measure from your waist to your knee and use this as your measurement. Because of the nature of circle skirts and the limitations of the width of fabric available, the maximum length of your skirt will be dictated by the width of the fabric. 03 Step five Join the marked points with a smooth curved line. This is the hemline of your skirt. Step six Trace this pattern piece onto a new sheet of paper and add 1cm (3⁄8in) seam allowance to the waistline curve and straight sides. Step seven If your fabric requires you to hem the skirt, then add a hem allowance to the hemline curve. Because of the nature of the fabric we are using, we chose to leave the hem edge raw, so did not add a hem allowance. 04
CUTTING OUT Step one Fold the main fabric in half top to bottom, not left to right as you normally would, with the right sides (RS) together and with the selvedges aligned. Step two Cut the front section of the skirt in one
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piece. To do this, place one of the straight edges of the pattern piece along the folded top edge of the fabric. But allow the seam allowance to overhang the folded edge as pictured. This eliminates the centre front (CF) seam. Step three The back section of the skirt is cut in two pieces as there will be a zip in the centre-back (CB) seam. Cut two of the pattern piece, including all seam allowances, from the remainder of the fabric. Make sure you retain a strip of fabric for the waistband in the next step. 05 Step four For the waistband, cut a strip of fabric 7cm (2¾in) wide and equal to the circumference of your waist line. Step five For the waistband facing, cut a strip of contrast fabric or main fabric the same width as your waistband, and 3cm (1¼in) longer.
MAKING THE WAISTBAND Step one Staystitch the curved edges of the waistband within the 1cm (3⁄8in) seam allowance. Step two Sew the back pieces to the front skirt piece with RS together, raw edges aligned and with a 1cm (3⁄8in) seam allowance. Step three Press the seams open and flat and then to the side. Note that with faux leather fabric, any pressing must be done through a cloth when pressing the RS of the fabric. Step four From the RS, topstitch the seam allowance down, approx 2mm (1⁄8in) from the seam line. 06
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Step five With RS together, pin the waistband to the waistline curve. If using faux leather fabric, pin within the seam allowance to avoid leaving visible pin holes on the finished garment, or use fabric clips to hold it in place. Step six Sew the waistband to the waistline curve using a 1cm (3⁄8in) seam allowance. Press this seam up and away from the garment and understitch close to the seam line. 07
Step four Topstitch all the way around the zip.
FACING THE WAISTBAND
INSERTING THE ZIP
Step one Take the waistband facing and press 1cm (3⁄8in) seam allowance to the wrong side (WS) along one edge. Pin the other raw edge, RS together to the raw edge of your waistband. 10 Step two It will overlap your zipper teeth by 1.5cm (5⁄8in) either side. Sew together, using a 1cm (3⁄8in) seam allowance. Press the facing up and away from the waistband and understitch close to the seam line. 11 Step three Roll and press the facing to the inside of the waistband. You could also understitch the fold into place, as pressing alone may not provide the crisp edge required. Step four Press under the 1.5cm (5⁄8in) seam allowance along the short edges of the facing so they are away from the zipper teeth on the inside. Step five Slipstitch the folded edge of the facing in place to complete. 12
Step one Remove the tacking stitches from the top 20cm (8in) of the CB seam. Step two You can opt for a standard centred zip, an invisible zip or, as we have done, an exposed zip. An exposed zip means that we didn’t have to stitch right up close to the zip teeth, so we could use a Teflon presser foot. Step three Instead of pinning and tacking the zip into place, which could damage the faux leather fabric, we used scotch tape to hold it in place. 09
Step one Hang the skirt overnight, as circle skirt hems can drop as the fabric stretches due to gravity, and then even out the hem if needed by cutting it parallel to the floor whilst it is hanging. Step two If desired, hem the skirt by turning the hem allowance over to the WS and pressing in place, then turn over and press once more to hide all raw edges. Topstitch in place.
MAKING UP THE SKIRT Step one With the RS together, sew up the CB seam, including the waistband in one pass. Start stitching from the top of the seam, and for 20cm (8in) tack with the longest stitch on your machine, then switch to a standard stitch length, backstitch a few times and continue sewing the rest of the seam to the hem. Step two Press the seam open and flat. 08
FINISHING THE SKIRT
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Finish of your party-season look with Lana Red's statement embroidered earrings made from faux leather scraps.
Make in 1 Hour!
YOU WILL NEED Q Faux leather: 10x10cm (4x4in) Q Stranded cotton in various colours Q Hoop ring x 2 Q Earring hook x 2 Q Pliers Q Punch Pliers Q Small clips FINISHED SIZE Q 7x3.6cm (2žinx13⠄8in). NOTE Q Download the template from www. simplysewingmag.com/downloads
CUTTING OUT Step one Download, print and cut out the earring petal template. Step two From the leather cut: Petal: cut four using the template.
EMBROIDERING THE EARRING Step one Place the paper template on the back of one of the leather pieces and hold it in place with small clips. Step two Thread your needle with stranded cotton. Insert the needle through the first hole of the chevron motif and continue following the embroidery pattern. Step three Once the centre section has been embroidered, remove the template by carefully ripping it away from the embroidery, but keep the rest of the template in tact as you will need this to embroider the outer edge of the earring. Step four Place a second piece of leather against the embroidered piece with the wrong sides (WS) together. Place the template on top of the embroidered piece of leather and hold it in place with small clips. Step five Again thread your needle with stranded cotton and insert the needle from in-between the two pieces of leather, through one of the outer dots on the template. Continue embroidering the outer edge of the earring all the way around following the template to attach the two pieces of leather together.
FINISHING OFF Step one With punch pliers, make a small hole in the top of the earring. Insert the hoop ring through the opening and attach the earring to the hoop ring. Close the hoop with your pliers. Step two Repeat the above steps to create the second earring.
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INCLUDES CLUDES FELT FELT, E EMBR EMBROIDERY RY THREADS, THREADS ZIPS ON A R ROLL, METAL CHARMS, ARMS FAUX LEATHER, PVC FABRIC, DIES, EMBOSSING FOLDERS, STAMPS, PAPER PADS, WASHI TAPE
The definitive event for anyone with a love of textile based crafts
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FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC
workshop JERSEY FABRIC Every issue, our sewists present must-try projects and techniques.
FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC
workshop LEARN THE TECHNIQUE JERSEY FABRIC CALCULATING STRETCH PERCENTAGE Some dressmaking patterns will call for a jersey with a certain stretch percentage. This can be confusing if the fabric store doesn’t specify, but it is very simple to calculate yourself. All you need to do is take a tape measure with you to the shop! First, hold 10cm of fabric between your thumbs and pull to a comfortable stretch. Don’t pull as far as the fabric will allow you to, but try to replicate the amount of stretch that a fitted T-shirt might have when worn. Measure the stretched length of the fabric between your thumbs and this will allow you to calculate the stretch percentage. You now need to find the percentage increase between the original 10cm and the amount that the fabric stretched to. For example, if 10cm stretched to 12cm that is an increase of 20%, so your fabric has 20% stretch. If it stretched to 15cm, your fabric has a 50% stretch. Some stretch fabrics have a horizontal and vertical stretch, so you can use this method to calculate the stretch in both directions. EQUIPMENT TO USE Ballpoint pins and sewing machine needles will pass through jersey easily, whereas regular machine needles will pierce the threads causing skipped stitches or laddering your fabric. Sharp scissors are essential when cutting out jersey fabric – blunt scissors will ‘drag’ the fabric as you are cutting it, resulting in stretched edges before you even begin to sew!
Use a twin ballpoint needle to hem your jersey garment for a professional finish.
MACHINE SETTINGS If your machine allows you to do so, reducing the pressure foot pressure can help if your fabric is stretching when sewn. The dogteeth in your machine will guide the fabric through as you sew but if the foot pressure is too high the foot will pull on the fabric as you sew, resulting in the dreaded wavy seams. Sew slowly – if you have a speed control on your sewing machine select the slowest setting, and if you don’t have speed control press very lightly on your foot pedal. Always sew a sample, or at least a use a scrap of fabric to practise your stitching before you start sewing the final garment. MAKING GARMENTS WITH JERSEY When sewing garments in jersey fabric you might find that it is helpful to use different techniques and stitches, depending on the desired finish. For example, finishing a hem with a twin needle will give a professional look, whereas you might think that a neckline would look nicer when finished with binding. You may like the effect of overlocking without stabilisers for the ends of the sleeves for a wavy, ‘petal’ effect. The best way to see what works best on your machine and what is to your taste is to experiment with a scrap of your fabric, and make sure to note down the stitch details next to each sample. This will help you to decide which stitch to use and save time in the future!
TOP TIPS FOR WORKING WITH JERSEY FABRIC Keep these go-to hints and tips handy when working with jersey. Cutting along the exact grain of the fabric will make the jersey less likely to distort when sewn. Cut on a flat surface and make sure your fabric isn’t hanging off a table when cutting as this will cause the fabric to stretch.
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Interfacing will prevent the jersey from stretching as you sew, so iron bias-cut strips onto the edge before sewing. Ensure you cut the bias strips evenly to ensure a neat finish.
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Ballpoint/stretch needles are best for sewing with jersey as the rounded tip will pass through the fabric smoothly, preventing skipped stitches and ladders in the fabric. Twin ballpoint needles are also available.
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Straight stitches will not stretch with the jersey and so will rip out as soon as the fabric is stretched. Narrow zigzag stitch is a good alternative when sewing with jersey. We used a stitch length of 3mm and a stitch width of 5mm, but experiment to find the stitch that works best for you.
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Overlockers provide a neat finish on jersey and allow a lot of stretch in the seam. You can place a stabiliser on the fabric and stitch over it to stabilise and overlock at the same time.
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Sew with a piece of tissue paper underneath your fabric and then carefully rip it away afterwards to prevent jersey stretching.
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Press jersey fabric from the wrong side to avoid shiny iron marks. As jersey contains elastic fibres, it will mark easily if your iron is too hot. It’s best to test a scrap of your fabric first to find the ideal heat setting.
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Tacking is a great way to avoid disasters with jersey and will help you to get your stitches right first time. Even if you wouldn't normally tack, you won't regret it with jersey!
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FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC
workshop JERSEY FABRIC
Making a jersey poncho 01
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YOU WILL NEED Q Medium-weight jersey: 1.5mx115cm (60x40in) Q Ballpoint pins or fabric weights Q Ballpoint sewing machine needle Q Twin ballpoint sewing machine needle (optional) Q Iron-on interfacing 60x60cm (24x24in) Q Erasable fabric marker or tailor's chalk Q Basic sewing kit NOTES Q Use a 1cm (3⁄8in) seam allowance. Q Our poncho has no shoulder seams so that you can wear the poncho at any angle you like without having to consider the seam placement. FABRIC USED Mustard Gold Solid French Terry Blend Knit Fabric Model: FT-1132. From www.girlcharlee.co.uk
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CUTTING OUT Step one From the main fabric cut: Poncho: rectangle 110cmx145cm (43x57in). This can be altered depending on your desired size. Binding strip: 3.5x84cm (1½x33in). MAKING THE NECK OPENING Step one Fold your rectangle in half widthways. You can place your neck opening in the centre or you can decide, as we did, to move the circle slightly off centre for an asymmetric poncho. Measure the width of your neckline opening – ours is 26cm (10in). Mark this measurement with pins and also mark the halfway point. Step two Measure in from the halfway point by your desired neckline depth – we measured in 10cm (4in) from the centre. Make another mark at this 10cm (4in) point. Step three Using an erasable fabric marker or tailor’s chalk, draw a smooth curve connecting the three points. Pin the jersey together in several places around the curve to secure. 01 Step four Cut along the curve. Step five Fold the long edges of the binding strip to the wrong side (WS) by 1cm (3⁄8in) and press. Fold the entire strip in half again
lengthways with WS together and press. Step six Open out and pin the short ends of the binding together right sides (RS) facing. 02 Step seven Stitch the ends of the binding using an overlocker or narrow zigzag stitch. Step eight Slide the binding over the neckline with RS facing. Pin the binding to the neckline along the 1cm (3⁄8in) fold line. 03 Step nine Fold the binding over to the WS and pin then tack in place. Make sure the binding is even and smooth around the neckline. 04 Step ten Topstitch in place from the RS, making sure you catch the back of the binding and the seam allowance, to secure. HEMMING THE PONCHO Step one Press iron-on interfacing to the WS of all raw edges, overlapping at the end of each interfacing strip so that there are no gaps. 05 Step two Finish the raw edge of the jersey and interfacing with an overlocker or zigzag stitch. Step three Turn the short edges over to the WS and press. Topstitch in place using a narrow zigzag stitch or a twin ballpoint needle. 06 Step four Repeat for each of the long edges. Step five Press on the WS to finish.
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Big Mama Pouffe by Maria Sammur
Me Me Modern Makes + Vintage Inspiration
The most anticipated pouffe pattern is now available to order from Really Maria! The Big Mama Pouffe is Designed by Maria and it’s a statement piece that looks stunning in any home.
Make beautiful handmade clothes for children. sewing patterns • kits • workshops
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PatTern Hack
day to night Update your fave jeans-and -a-nice-top combo and try Roisin McKenna's cowl top hack to dress up or down.
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cow top hack 01
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YOU WILL NEED
CREATING THE COWL NECK PATTERN
Q The Meghan Dress sewing pattern with this issue Q Medium-weight jersey fabric: 2mx115cm (2¼ydsx45in), for all sizes Q Ballpoint sewing machine needle Q Twin ballpoint sewing machine needle (optional) Q Clear elastic: 5mmx5.5m Q Iron-on interfacing: 50x50m (20x20in) Q Long ruler Q Matching thread Q Basic sewing kit
Step one Trace the Dress A front pattern in your size. Leave some space on your paper around the pattern piece so there is room to work later on. Step two Trace the shorten/lengthen line onto the piece and all notches and cross markings. Step three Continue the CF line upwards towards the shoulder and then continue the inner shoulder line towards the CF line. 01 Step four Join the cross point at the SS to the outer shoulder seam. Then draw another line from the SS cross connecting it to the CF cross point. Step five Starting at this line between the two crosses, draw eight parallel lines approx 4cm (15⁄8in) apart up to the shoulder seam line. 02 Step six Cut from the CF cross upwards to the shoulder line and then across the shoulder and down to the cross and the SS. Step seven Cut along the eight lines from the CF to the SS, starting at the line between the crosses. Leave 1cm (3⁄8in) uncut at the end of each line. Step eight Place a piece of paper underneath the cut-out section. ‘Fan’ out each section by 1-2cm (3⁄8-¾in) at the CF line, fold the paper slightly at the SS so it lays flat and tape it in place. If pieces don’t lay flat when taped, slit the centre and re-tape. 03 Step nine Extend the CF line upwards towards the shoulder seam and then draw a 90-degree line connecting this line to the corner point of the shoulder seam. 04 Step ten The finished shoulder seam length will be
SUGGESTED FABRICS Medium-weight jersey fabric, viscose jersey, stretch velvet, sequin jersey. NOTES Q Use a 1.5cm (5⁄8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. Q This top has no facings. The raw edges are neatly finished on the inside to reduce bulk. Q RS = Right side. Q WS = Wrong side. Q CF = Centre front. Q CB = Centre back. Q SS = Side seam.
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24cm (9½in). Extend the outer shoulder seam so the shoulder line measures 24cm (9½in) in total. Step eleven Connect the new outer shoulder seam point to the outer SS cross with a straight line. Measure the halfway point along this line and mark the paper 2cm (¾in) past this point towards the shoulder seam. 05 Step twelve Measure inwards from this point by 10cm (4in) and draw a straight line. Draw a smooth curve connecting the outer shoulder seam to the 10cm (4in) point and then to the outer SS cross – this will form the armhole of the fluted sleeve. Step thirteen Measure from your shoulder to your desired top length and transfer this length onto the pattern, measuring down from the shoulder seam on the pattern. This is now the front piece finished. Cut out following the new outline – it may be helpful to highlight the new lines. 06
ALTERING THE BACK AND STRAP PATTERN Step one The back pattern is the same as the Version A back pattern. Measure the length of the SS on the top front from the SS cross to the hem line and ensure the back SS measures the same. Step two Trace the pattern for the Dress A back strap onto pattern paper. Extend the shoulder seam outwards so that the entire shoulder seam line measures 24cm (9½in). Draw a straight line from the extended shoulder line to the base. Draw a shallow, subtle curve using the straight line as a guide. Cut out this new pattern piece. 07
cow top hack 04
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CUTTING OUT Step one From the main fabric cut: Front bodice: cut one on fold. Back bodice: cut one on fold. Back strap: cut one pair.
ATTACHING THE BACK STRAPS Step one Take one of the back straps and cut a length of clear elastic the length of each long raw edge. Line the clear elastic up with the raw edge and then, using a ballpoint needle and an overlocker or narrow zigzag stitch, finish the long edges stitching through the elastic. If you use an overlocker you can turn the finished edge to the WS and topstitch to secure. If you use a zigzag stitch you will need to fold the edge over to the WS again. Repeat for the other back strap. Step two Lay the back straps overlapping on top of the back piece RS together with the CB notches on all three pieces matching. Pin in place. 08 Step three Using a narrow zigzag stitch or an overlocker, sew the back straps to the back bodice piece with clear elastic in the seam (on the WS of the fabric) as before. Sew slowly and avoid pulling the fabric as this will result in wavy seams. Step four Turn this seam so that it is facing towards the hem and slowly topstitch it into place using a narrow zigzag stitch to secure.
ASSEMBLING THE BODICE Step one Finish the raw edges of the front bodice
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along the top and around the armhole curve using clear elastic as before. 09 Step two Turn to the WS and topstitch in place. 10 Step three Before joining the shoulder seams together, check the length of the back straps. Pin the straps to the front bodice shoulders and try it on then make any adjustments. Step four Pin and then sew the shoulder seams together using clear elastic – as the edges have already been finished on both pieces you will ned to make sure the pieces match up exactly. For extra security, tack in place before sewing. Step five If you have overlocker threads overhanging the shoulder seams tuck them to the WS and hand-stitch in place to neaten the seam. Step six Repeat to sew the side seams of the top. As with the shoulder seams, the top edges have already been finished so ensure the side seams match exactly. Use clear elastic and an overlocker or a narrow-width zigzag stitch to sew the SS.
FINISHING OFF Step one Cut 3cm (1Âźin) wide strips of iron-on interfacing on the bias until you have strips equal to the length of your hem. Step two Finish the raw edge of the jersey with a zigzag stitch or an overlocker and then press the iron-on interfacing strips to the WS, overlapping the strips slightly so there are no gaps. Step three Turn the hem to the WS. Topstitch with a narrow zigzag stitch or a twin ballpoint needle.
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MY SEWING WORLD By The Fold Line Sew the winter trends with The Fold Line's pattern picks, from classic tweed to statement headwear.
Take a look a t th and blog pos e latest patterns, reviews ts at www.th efoldline.com
t the start of this year, we chose nine patterns each to make as part of #2018makenine, organised by Rochelle of Home Row Fibre Co (www.homerow fiber.co). We also took part in #MeMadeMay, a sewing challenge started by Zoe Edwards (sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.com). Both have helped us to think about what we want to make for this season and where the gaps are in our wardrobes. We also like to be inspired by trends and how we might be able to recreate them, so here are a few of our favourite catwalkinspired patterns to get you ready for a winter of making.
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High necklines: More is definitely more this winter, with high necklines and low hemlines seen on the catwalks from designers such as Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen. There are a few great patterns to nail this look, including the Nikko Dress by True Bias (www.truebias. com), perfect when worn with an oversized coat. You could also try the 70s dress by Trend Patterns (www. trendpatterns.co.uk), and both the Stella Dress and Gemma Maxi Dress by Named Clothing (www. namedclothing.com) fit the bill, too.
"For tailored checks, look to the Amsterdam Blazer from Orageuse."
Statement hats: Your outfit isn’t complete without headwear this winter. The styles on the catwalk are quite extreme and definitely have a balaclava feel to them, but they will keep you warm and cosy! If you haven’t made a knit hat before, try the simple Named Delia Beanie. Tweed: A classic fabric and another key trend this season. You can experiment with tradition by combining different textures to create a statement piece. Tweeds work really well when used to make oversized coats and skirts. How about mixing and matching your tweed fabrics to make a statement Juliette Skirt by Ready To Sew (www.ready tosew.fr)? The silhouette of the Margo Skirt by Seamwork (www.seamwork.com) would also look great in tweed. Checks: A key item for your handmade wardrobe is a garment made up in a check print. From classic hues to bright 1990s Americana, it’s time to embrace your Clueless teen self. Featuring everything from tailored garments to
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with d n e tr e n li k c e n Sew the high a styles. m m e G d n a ) ft le the Nikko (
ll "Animal-look prints wi be hitting the high street in a big way this season." large prints on oversized dresses, you won’t be able to resist this trend. For some tailored check-print inspiration, look to the Rome Shirt and Amsterdam Blazer, both from Orageuse (www.orageuse.com). For beginners, the Hestia Skirt by I Am Patterns (www.iampatterns. fr) would be a great choice. Also have a look at the McCall’s 7485 coat, Kwik Sew 6891 dress (both www. sewdirect.com), and New Look 6313 skirt (www. simplicitynewlook.com) for more ideas.
Try the prairie look with Deer & Doe's Myosotis Dress (left), cosy up in a big hood with the Vogue® Patterns 8930 (top right), and sew staple skirts with the Hestia (right) and Ultimate Pencil Skirt (below).
Cowboy/girl: Following on from the check prints, cowboy/girl style is big this season. It’s all about putting a modern twist on prairie dresses and pairing them with cowboy/girl boots. There will also be plenty of plaid shirts about as well. We would recommend taking a look at the Myosotis Dress by Deer & Doe (www.deer-and-doe. com) and the Alix Dress from By Hand London (www. byhandlondon.com), which both work in drapey fabric. Hoods: Not only is there balaclava-style headwear, but large, oversized hoods also featured on the catwalk from designers such as Valentino. The perfect pattern for this is the Vogue® Patterns 8930 (www.sewdirect.com) jacket. FABRIC TRENDS Animal prints: Animal-look prints will be hitting the high street in a big way this season – it’s all about using them in a sophisticated way, with simple accessories. Metallics: Everything from vinyl or latex to plastic – the shinier the better! Take a look at The Ultimate Pencil Skirt by The Maker’s Atelier (www.themakersatelier.com) to see how this trend could jazz up a simple pencil skirt.
Keeping us inspired...
Whip up Named's quick-se w Delia Beanie ready for win ter.
We get so much inspiratin from what everyne makes in the seing community. A great way o keep up o date ith the latest makes and meet seists is to follow seing challenges rganised by bloggers and makers. We’ve compiled a comprehensive list of these, including #makeyurstash, #soiselflesseing and #makeitsewcial, in ur seing resurces sectin – check them all ut here: www.thefoldline. com/seing-challenges-andhashtags-o-follow
Get social (or should that be sewcial!) with our list of sewing hashtags.
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rose tinted Give a simple-sew wash bag a luxe look with an on-trend terrazzo print and rose-gold hardware, perfect for last-minute gifting. By Anna Alicia.
wash bag YOU WILL NEED
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Q Outer fabric: 60x35cm (24x14in) Q Lining fabric: 60x35cm (24x14in) Q Interfacing: 60x35cm (24x14in) Q Zip: 36cm (14in) Q Matching thread Q Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED The fabrics used are from the New Horizons collection by Dashwood. Outer fabric: Map Points. Lining fabric: Grid Lines. NOTE Use a 1cm (3⁄8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated.
CUTTING OUT Step one From the outer fabric cut: Bag outer: two rectangles 35x27cm (133⁄8x105⁄8in). Zip end tabs: cut two rectangles 5x5.5cm (2x2¼in). This measurement is based on a 3cm (1¼in) wide zip. Check the width of your zip and add 2cm (¾in) to get the correct measurement if it is not 3cm (1¼in) wide. Step two From the lining fabric cut: Bag lining: Two rectangles 35x27cm (133⁄8x105⁄8in). Step three From the interfacing cut: Bag interfacing: Two rectangles 35x27cm (133⁄8x105⁄8in).
MAKING THE ZIP END TABS Step one Fold each of the zip end tab raw edges to the wrong side (WS) by 1cm (3⁄8in) and press. Step two Fold one of these zip tab end rectangles in half (so the slightly narrower edges meet) over one end of the zip and pin in place. Do the same at the other end of the zip. Step three Hand-sew the open edges of each tab in place around the zip ends.
from the zip so that they are facing WS together and press. Step five Lay out the other lining rectangle WS facing upwards and line up the other edge of the zip along the top edge as before. Place the other outer rectangle on top, RS facing down. Pin in place. 02 Step six Sew as before. Turn the fabrics RS out and press. Step seven Sew along either side of the zip, approx 2mm (1⁄8in) in from the edge of the fabric. Unzip the zip.
MAKING THE BAG LINING Step one Lay the lining fabric rectangles WS up and place the interfacing rectangles on top with the glue side facing down. Press firmly to fuse the fabric to the interfacing. Don’t use steam as this will reduce the strength of the glue. Step two On each of the lining and outer rectangles, fold both shorter edges to the WS by 1cm (3⁄8in) and press. Step three Take one of the interfaced lining rectangles and lay it out right side (RS) up on your work surface. Place the zip RS facing upwards on top so its outer edge lines up with the top long edge of the lining fabric. Then place one of the outer fabric rectangles on top, RS down. Pin along the top edge. 01 Step four With a zip foot on your machine, sew along the top edge, 3mm (1⁄8in) from the zip’s teeth. Fold the lining and outer fabric away
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Step two Sew along this line and then trim the corners away 1cm (3⁄8in) from the stitching. Repeat for the other corner of the outer layer and both corners of the lining. Step three Turn the bag RS out through one of the 5cm (2in) turning gaps left earlier. Then tuck the lining inside the outer bag. Step four Using a needle and matching thread, neatly hand-sew the lining and outer seams closed up to 2cm (¾in) from the zip. Step five From the 2cm (¾in) point up to the zip, neatly hand-sew the lining and outer fabrics together but leave the side seam open.
MAKING THE OUTER BAG Step one Bring the two outer fabric rectangles RS together. Do the same with the lining. Unfold the folded edges of the outer and lining pieces and press flat up to about 5cm (2in) from the zip. Pin all the way around the edges, leaving a gap of 5cm (2in) at both ends when you are nearing the top edge with the zip. 03 Step two Using a regular machine foot, sew around the edges 1cm (3⁄8in) in, leaving the 5cm (2in) gaps unsewn.
MAKING THE BOX BASE Step one To create the box base of the bag, fold one of the outer corners flat to create a triangle. Measure 5cm (2in) up from the corner then mark a line at 45-degrees at that point. Pin along this line. 04
Make the bag’s lining in an oilcloth fabric for easy cleaning.
nailed it! Sew a speedy stocking iller for a beauty addict with Anna Alicia’s cute-and-quick nail ile holder how-to.
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nai fi ho d r 01
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CUTTING OUT
To make a set of three holders Q 6 different quilting-weight cotton fabrics: 40x6cm (16x3in) Q Iron-on interfacing: 40x20cm (16x8in) Q Matching thread Q Basic sewing kit
Each nail file holder is made up of an outer and a lining fabric. You will first need to decide which of the six fabrics will be used for each holder. You should decide on three outer fabrics and three lining fabrics. Step one From each of the cotton fabrics cut: Holder strips: 40x6cm (16x3in). Step two From the iron-on interfacing cut: Interfacing strips: 40x6cm (16x3in). Step three Round the top corners of each of your fabric strips and interfacing. If your fabric has a directional pattern it is important to decide which will be the inner and outer fabrics before you do this. For the inner fabrics, round the corners at the top short edge, with the pattern facing in the correct direction. For the outer fabrics, however, the pattern needs to be facing in the wrong direction when the corners are rounded so that it ends up with the pattern facing the correct way later on. 01
FABRICS USED Fabrics are from the Winterfold fabric collection by Dashwood Studio at www.dashwoodstudio.com Deer Scenic, Charcoal; Stars, Coral; Birds, Branches Grey; Deer Scenic, White; Hares, White, Birds, Light Grey. NOTES Q Use a 1cm (3⁄8in) seam allowance.
from the end with the rounded corners and sew around the edge, 1cm (3⁄8in) in, leaving a roughly 6cm (23⁄8in) turning gap unsewn. Trim across the corners close to your stitching. 03 Step four Turn RS out through the turning gap. Press, folding in the edges of the gap. 04 Step five With the rounded corners at the top and your lining fabric face-up, fold the bottom edge up so it is 3cm (1¼in) from the top edge. 05 Step six Pin along the sides and sew 3mm (1⁄8in) in along both sides. Step seven Repeat these steps with the remaining two pairs of strips to create a set of three nail file holders. 06
MAKING THE HOLDERS Step one Press one interfacing strip to the wrong side (WS) of each of the outer fabrics. 02 Step two Take one interfaced outer strip and one lining strip. Lay the lining strip right side (RS) up on your surface and place the outer strip on top, RS facing down, ensuring the rounded edges match up. Pin around the edges. Step three Start stitching at least 12cm (5in)
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Embroider or appliqué an initial for a personal gift.
winter bouquet You’ll be a happy Christmas shopper with Tone Finnanger’s tote bag on your arm, decorated with swirly quilting and a spray of appliqué blooms.
App iqu bag YOU WILL NEED Q Fabric A: 40x107cm (42x16in), for bag background Q Fabric B: 40x15cm (20x6in), for patchwork and bag base Q Fabric C: 50x15cm (20x6in), for patchwork and handles Q Fabric D: 15x15cm (6x6in) Q Fabric E: 15x15cm (6x6in) Q Fabric F: 15x15cm (6x6in) Q Fabric G: 15x15cm (6x6in) Q Fabric H: 15x15cm (6x6in) Q Scraps of various fabrics for appliqué Q Bondaweb: 38x43cm (15x17in) Q Apliquick™ stabiliser: 38x38cm (15x15in) Q Lining fabric: 102x61cm (40x24in) Q Wadding: 91.5x61cm (36x24in) Q Binding fabric: 25x107cm (10x42in) Q Appliqué glue pen Q Erasable fabric marker Q Knitting needle for turning Q Matching thread Q Basic sewing kit NOTES Q The main body of the bag is a single fabric with a band of patchwork squares along the top and bottom. Appliqué is added to the front of the bag using two different methods, one using Bondaweb and the other Apliquick™. These are attached in two separate stages. Q Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. Q Download the templates from www. simplysewingmag.com/downloads FABRICS USED The fabrics used are from the Birdpond and Permanent collections by Tilda. For stockists visit www.tildasworld.com/ retailers FINISHED SIZE 19x14in (48.3x35.5cm) excluding handles
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CUTTING OUT Step one Download, print and cut out the appliqué templates. Step two From Fabric A cut: Bag front: 20½x11½in. Bag back: 20½x11½in. Step three From Fabric B cut: Base: 15½x5½in. Step four From Fabric C cut: Handles: 2½x16in. Step five From wadding cut: Handles: 2x15½in. Step six From the lining fabric cut: Bag lining: 21x35in. Step seven From wadding cut: Bag wadding: one 21x35in. Step eight From each of Fabric B, D, E and H cut: Patchwork squares: three 2x2in squares. Step nine From each of Fabric C, F and G: Patchwork squares: four 2x2in squares. Step ten From each of Fabric B, D, E and H: Patchwork square ends: one 1½x2in piece. Step eleven Repeat the cutting of the patchwork squares and patchwork square ends for the back of the bag. Step twelve From the binding fabric cut: Binding: Cut two strips of fabric 2¼inx42in.
BONDAWEB APPLIQUÉ METHOD Step one Iron the Bondaweb onto the back of your appliqué fabrics. Remove the paper
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backing from the Bondaweb. Step two Trace or copy the pattern from the template onto a sheet of paper. Place the fabric glue-side down on top of the paper and use a lightbox or hold it against a window so you can see the drawn line through the fabric. Trace the leaves onto the fabrics. 01 Step three Cut out all of the pieces then place them onto the background fabric, positioning them as shown in the image. Press the appliqués into place with a medium-hot iron. Step four The appliqués need to be quilted in place to secure. Place the backing fabric right sides (RS) down with the wadding on top and then place the background fabric RS up on top. Quilt these pieces, making the quilting quite dense so that the appliqués are firmly secured.
APLIQUICK™ APPLIQUÉ METHOD For the appliqué flowers we’ve used a product called Apliquick™. This is a thin, semi-stiff, fusible stabiliser made for appliqué. It is similar to a thin, stiff bag interlining such as Vlieseline, which could be used as an alternative. The Apliquick™ technique allows you to make finished appliqué flowers that you can try on many backgrounds and finished projects. The flowers also work well without leaves. Step one Place a piece of Apliquick™ glue-side up on the template and trace all the pieces, making sure that no pieces overlap. Draw
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a dotted line along edges that are overlapped by other pieces to show where there is no need for a seam allowance. 02 Step two Cut the pieces out and press them onto the wrong side (WS) of the appliqué fabric. Leave enough space for seam allowances between pieces. 03 Step three Cut out all pieces with a seam allowance, except along the dotted edges. 04 Step four Carefully snip into the seam allowance, especially at the points where the curves meet. Avoid snipping any stitches. 05 Step five Apply glue along the edges of the seam allowance using a glue pen. 06 Step six Start pushing the seam allowance in around the edge using your fingers, you could use a tool such as a narrow wooden stick to help you turn the fabric over if necessary. 07 Step seven When all of the pieces for a flower are ready, reconstruct the flower using the template as a guide. Use a small amount of glue to fix the pieces together before stitching them together with a few stitches along the edges. 08 Step eight Position and stitch the flower motif onto the background fabric which will already have the leaves appliquéd in place.
ASSEMBLING THE BAG Step one Arrange the patchwork squares into two rows, each with 12 squares, and add a patchwork square end piece at each row end.
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Step two Sew the rows together and then sew the assembled rows to the top and bottom of the bag front piece. Repeat this process to sew the same patchwork strips for the bag back. Step three Prepare the leaves for the appliqué design using the template pattern, then fuse the appliqués into position on the bag front following the Bondaweb Appliqué Method. Step four Sew the bag front and bag back to the base. To make sure the base is central, mark the centre of each of the pieces and then match these marks when sewing. Step five Place a bag lining piece RS down, then add a bag wadding piece, and then the bag patchwork RS up. Step six Quilt the layers together. You can use any fairly dense pattern. Trim excess wadding and lining so all edges of the bag match. Step seven Fold the bag in half, RS facing. Sew the bag front and back together down each side just under ¼in (6mm) from the edge.
bind both sewn edges, turning the short edges of the binding under first to hide raw edges. 09 Step four Turn the bag through to the RS and press. Use the remainder of the binding to bind the top edge of the bag all the way around. Step five To make the handles, take one of the Fabric C handle strips and place a handle wadding piece on the WS. 10 Step six Fold the fabric edges over the wadding and press. Now fold the whole strip in half with WS together and sew along all of the edges. Repeat for the second handle. Step seven Securely sew the handles in place on the inside of the bag.
ADDING THE APPLIQUÉ FLOWERS Step one Use the template to prepare the flowers for the appliqué design, following the Apliquick™ Method. Step two Hand-sew them to the front of the bag in the positions shown on the template.
BINDING THE BAG Step one Sew the binding strips together along the short edges and then press in half all along the length, WS together. Step two Bind down each side of the bag. Fold the bag at each corner, matching the two short corner edges to create depth. Using a ¼in (6mm) seam allowance, sew across the corner. Step three Repeat on the other corner and then
This quilted tote bag is one of 20 autumn and winter sewing projects in Hot Chocolate Sewing by Tone Finnanger, published by SewandSo, £16.99. Visit www.sewandso.co.uk
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PIECE BY PIECE We talk about the beauty of slow stitching, why blogging beats Instagram, and why you can never have too much Liberty-print fabric with English paper piecing pro, Florence Knapp – AKA Flossie Teacakes. Written by Sarah Dawson.
lorence Knapp is one of those inspiring creative women who make it all look easy. Juggling raising two teenage children, dressmaking, English paper piecing, pattern design, blogging, writing and running a business with her husband, she certainly has her hands full, but pulls it all off with aplomb. With the recent publication of her first book, Flossie Teacakes’ Guide to English Paper Piecing, things look set to get even busier for this motivated stitcher. “I have always loved making things,” she explains, “and although my own mother wasn’t a sewer, she encouraged a love of colour, texture and pattern – always drawing my attention to those things as a child. We
F
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travelled as a family a lot when I was younger, and at one of the primary schools I attended, the girls were kept in to sew, while the boys went outside to play cricket. Although that’s a horribly traditional division, I remember loving those quiet afternoons stitching away, up in the attic classroom. One of my first projects was a reversible bag, with wooden ring handles – and I still have it today!” EPP PASSION As is the case with so many crafters, it wasn’t until Florence had her first child, in her early twenties, that sewing became a defining feature in her life – in particular English paper piecing. After trying her hand at the craft in
2010, by her own admission, she developed something of an obsession with it. “I love machine sewing, but often felt slightly chained to my desk with it,” she explains. “When I discovered English paper piecing, the inherent portability of handsewing felt quite miraculous to me – suddenly I could sew while I chatted with family or friends, sat in the park, waited at an airport or watched films! I also enjoyed how silent it was compared to the judder of my machine – it seemed to have an almost meditative quality to it.” If you’re new to this sewing technique, let us fill you in. English paper piecing, or EPP as it’s also known, involves wrapping or folding
a good read fabric around paper templates, and then sewing these wrapped pieces together, before discarding the papers. “It’s a method that allows you to tackle complex shapes with surprising ease and accuracy,” Florence enthuses. “The tessellating shapes and precision seem instantly recognisable to me, and at an exhibition I’ll often be drawn across the room to the one quilt that is English paper pieced. I have to try and slow myself down, to stop making an undignified dash toward it!” Florence’s love for this medium is clear to see, and after contributing to the V&A book, Patchwork & Quilting: A Maker’s Guide, she now has the chance to pass on her passion for the craft through her own book, which offersa fresh, exciting take on English paper piecing. It features a series of fascinating essays, exploring things like the psychology of working with our hands and its mental health benefits, and why the human eye is drawn to repeating patterns and symmetry. The book also touches on the lives of some of Florence’s favourite EPPers, past and present, before she gets back to basics with an in-depth look at all the techniques used for English paper piecing and a selection of patterns to try. “It’s quite an unconventional format for a quilt book,” says Florence, “but it was a total joy to write
and I really hope people enjoy reading it.” UNEXPECTED OPPORTUNITIES Florence is no stranger to writing, setting up her hugely popular blog, Flossie Teacakes (www.flossieteacakes.blogspot.com), in 2007. Its whimsical name came from a beloved childhood book. “As a child, I read and loved a series of books by Hunter Davies featuring a character called Flossie Teacake,” reveals Florence. “My sister and parents often called me Flossie anyway, but they added Teacakes
"I LOVE MACHINE SEWING, BUT OFTEN FELT SLIGHTLY CHAINED TO MY DESK WITH IT. WHEN I DISCOVERED EPP, THE INHERENT PORTABILIT Y FELT QUITE MIRACULOUS."
I much prefer to be called Florence!” It’s fair to say that Florence really didn’t anticipate her blog would be a springboard to turn her crafting into a career, explaining that “I started writing the blog purely for my own personal enjoyment, and from there my pattern business grew, when a reader asked if I could write up the pattern for a bag I’d made. Later, my love of English paper piecing happened to combine with my learning to use Adobe Illustrator, which then led me to designing EPP patterns and, from there, to my publisher approaching me about writing a book!” For Florence, there’s never been a grand plan for turning her love of English paper piecing and sewing into a business. “I’ve been lucky that doing the things I’m naturally drawn to and interested in has led to some exciting opportunities, but it’s been more of an organic unfolding,” she smiles.
around that time and it somehow stuck. When I came to naming my blog many years later, I chose the name hardly believing anyone other than my family would actually read it – I would have thought more carefully if I’d known it would be more widely read, as although I’m fond of my childhood name,
Photos left: www.flossieteacakes.blogspot.com; Photos right: From Patchwork & Quilting: A Maker’s Guide by V&A, published by Thames & Hudson.
Right: Florence's first book project was this oh-so-pretty EPP block, featured in V&A's Patchwork & Quilting: A Maker’s Guide book. She has just published her first solo craft book, Flossie Teacakes’ Guide to English Paper Piecing, which offers a unique and inspiring look at the history of the craft, interviews with EPP pros and tips and techniques for creating your own EPP makes.
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a good read
Right: Florence is at her happiest when she's at home with her family and furry friends. She works on various creative projects in her cosy loft room, “writing, designing patterns and sewing. My days vary from week to week and I like the sense of balance that combining these different elements gives to my life."
She still splits her time between sewing, pattern design, writing (“I’m currently 40,000 words into writing a novel and I am also excited that a short story I’ve written will be published in an anthology later this year,” she reveals) and running a business with her husband, creating a series of educational apps for primary school children, called Squeebles. Busy just about covers it! A PERFECT BALANCE With so much going on, it’s no surprise that Florence doesn’t have a typical working day. “My days vary hugely from week to week,” she says, “and I like the sense of balance that combining these different elements gives to my life. Having said that, most days involve chatting with my husband over breakfast, spending hours up in my loft room writing, sewing, creating graphics, designing sewing patterns, answering emails and occasionally procrastinating while listening to podcasts or an audio book! I also love to take our golden retriever, Nell, for a walk with my husband or a friend, before our teenage children arrive home. I’ll always spend some time with them,
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cooking dinner, before returning to whatever I was working on during the day.” As a self-confessed homebody, Florence admits to loving nothing more than “being inside with the heating turned up high,” but also loves communicating with other crafters through her blog, Twitter (@FlossieTeacake1) and her insanely beautiful Instagram account
"I GET MY INSPIRATION FROM ALL OVER THE PLACE: ISLAMIC FLOOR TILES, THE PATTERN ON OLD CAST-IRON MANHOLE COVERS, NATURE. PRETTY MUCH ANYTHING." (@flossieteacakes). Social media is a fantastic way to connect with makers from all over the world, and Florence agrees there’s definitely a place for it within the crafting community. “I love each of these platforms for different reasons, and without them I doubt any of the opportunities I’ve had would have come about,” she says. “My blog is still at the core of what I do – I feel I’ve come to know many
of my readers and I love the conversations that happen in the comments section. Instagram is fun for a quick fix of inspiration and chatter, but blogs are a more in-depth, slower medium and I enjoy hearing the back-story to how things are made and the thoughts that went through the person’s head as they were making them.” PATTERN AND PRINT One look at Florence’s Instagram will leave you buzzing with inspiration (trust us, it’s so beautiful!), but where does Florence herself find ideas for her English paper piecing designs? “I get my inspiration from all over the place: Islamic floor tiles, the patterning on old cast-iron manhole covers, nature,” she explains. “Pretty much anything that can be created from tessellating shapes or with tile or mosaic, can be a good jumping-off point.” And it’s not just the endless inspiration from day-to-day patterns that helps make English paper piecing such a creative outlet for Florence and the sewing community – there’s also the opportunity to mix and match colourful fabrics and beautiful prints
a good read
to your heart’s content (and use up precious fabric scraps in the process) – a dream come true for most stitchers! Florence recommends trying a different colour palette to the usual shades you sew with to maximise creativity. “I’m naturally drawn to pinks and turquoises, but I’m really trying to challenge myself with that and branch out,” admits Florence. “Last year, I started a quilt where I matched the colours for each block to those found in my favourite paintings – it was liberating to have some of the decision-making taken out of my hands and I really enjoyed the unexpected colour combinations that arose." There is one particular print she'll never tire of, though: "I love Liberty fabrics and have quite a large stash of them – it’s a guiltless one though, as I use them regularly and they feel timeless!” ALWAYS LEARNING Constantly buzzing with ideas, Florence enjoys taking on all manner of different projects. “I enjoy machine appliqué,” she says. “It feels so quick compared to English paper piecing, but similarly neat and precise. Last year I made a Liberty-print map of the British Isles (putting that fabric stash to good use!) using machine appliqué, and I loved
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every minute of cutting out those tiny counties and sewing them into place. I unwittingly worked from an out-of-date map with old county boundaries, but as it’s only hanging on my own wall, I’m not too perturbed by that! I also do a fair bit of dressmaking, mostly choosing to self-draft patterns or rub-off the pattern from something shop-bought in my wardrobe, where I already know it’s a good fit.” English paper piecing, in all its social and portable glory, is where her passion lies and Florence’s love of all things EPP is infectious. Through her blog and book, she’s part of the big resurgence in the popularity of this traditional craft, which shows no sign of slowing down. “I get so much joy seeing how others reinterpret my patterns and put their own creative spin on them,” she smiles. And that’s the beauty of EPP – you can really make it your own. Nothing beats the joy of a slow stitching project – something you can really lose yourself in, and a finished English paper pieced quilt that tells a story. We don’t know about you, but we’re feeling inspired. Now, if only we could get our hands on that stash of Liberty-print fabric… Visit www.flossieteacakes.blogspot.com
TRY ENGLISH PAPER PIECING Florence's new book, Flossie Teacakes' Guide to English Paper Piecing (£28.99, SewandSo) is an in-depth exploration of English paper piecing, with a history of the craft, artist profiles, and patterns for original rosettes on which to learn the practicalities of EPP, with step-bysteps covering everything from paper choice and templates, to how to mock up layouts and tacking methods. See more at www.sewandso.co.uk
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Photos: www.flossieteacakes.blogspot.com; Photo right: Flossie Teacakes Guide to English Paper Piecing, published by SewandSo
Right: Although "naturally drawn to pinks and turquoises," Florence challenged herself to try new a new palette with one of her latest projects, a quilt inspired by some of her favourite paintings: "I really enjoyed the unexpected colour combinations that arose." Above: Florence used her enviable stash of Liberty prints to machineappliqué a map of the UK in the brand's iconic prints. Swoon!
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UpcYcle QUICK PROJECT
hat trick Whip up a winter warmer from an unloved knit with Jennifer Taylor’s jumperto-hat revamp, inished with a jumbo pom pom.
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CREATING THE PATTERN
ADDING THE POM POM
Q Jumper Q Basic sewing kit Q Matching thread Q Faux fur: 25x10cm (10x4in) Q Toy stuffing
Step one The basic hat pattern starts out as a rectangle. To create your rectangle shape, measure the circumference of your head. This will give you the width measurement. Step two Then take a measurement from the nape of your neck over your head to your forehead. Halve this to get your length measurement.
Step one Using a needle and thread, sew along the longer edge of the faux fur with a running stitch. Try to keep the fur pulled away from the raw edge when doing this so that it doesn’t get caught in the seam as this will make the seam harder to sew and less secure. Step two Before stitching along the shorter edge, gather the fabric and secure with a knot. 06 Step three Firmly fill the pom pom with toy stuffing, making sure it is well-distributed and has a nice round shape. Step four Then stitch along the remaining edge, gather up and secure with a knot as before. Fluff your pom pom to hide any visible stitches. Step five Use small hand stitches to secure the pom pom to the centre top of the hat, where all of the seams meet.
NOTE Q Use a 1cm (3â „8in) seam allowance.
CUTTING OUT Step one Mark the width measurement out along the hem of the jumper. 01 Step two Starting from the hem upwards, mark the length measurement and then cut out to create the basic rectangle shape. Step three Fold the fabric into thirds and then mark out and trim the top edge into a curved shape, but leaving the ribbed hem untouched as this will be the hem of your hat. 02
MAKING THE HAT Step one With the right sides (RS) together, pin along the length to the centre of the first curve. 03 Step two Sew along this length, stopping at the centre of the first curve. Use a zigzag stitch to do this as it will also finish off the raw edges on the knitted fabric as you sew. Step three Bring the centre of the final curve to the seam you have just sewn. 04 Step four Pin and stitch in place. 05
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Jenniffer is the author of Girl with a Sewing Machine, a former contestant on The Great British Sewing Bee, and a designer for Sewing Quarter. Find out more at www.jenniffertaylor.co.uk
soft serve
Ice-cream hues and sprinkle prints make for a sweet bed set we can’t wait to dive into! Sew your own with Lucy Brennan’s simple geometric patchwork design.
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Quilt YOU WILL NEED Q Fabric A: 64x64cm (25x25in) Q Fabric B: 145x61cm (57x24in) Q Fabric C: 145x61cm (57x24in) Q Fabric D: 64x90cm (25x35in) Q Fabric E: 61x61cm (24x24in) Q Fabric F: 2 pieces 137x115cm (54x45in), for backing and binding Q Wadding: 155x137cm (61x54in) Q Water-erasable fabric pen Q Curved safety pins, for tacking Q Walking foot, for quilting Q Matching thread Q Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED The fabrics used are by Moda. From the Bella Solids collection: Bunny Hill Pink, Zen Grey, Almond, Etchings, Feather. From the Savannah Collection by Gingiber for Moda: Furry Charcoal. Visit www.modafabric.co.uk NOTES Q The finished size is 140x120cm (55x47in). Q Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance.
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MAKING THE QUILT TOP Step one Mark a diagonal line from corner to corner on the back of the Fabric E square. Place the square on top of Fabric C, matching three edges. Pin and sew on the diagonal line. 01 Step two Trim off the corner, leaving a 5mm (¼in) seam. Press the seam open. 02 Step three Place Fabric B on top of the section just sewn, matching long edges and pin. Sew along the long edge. Press the seam open. 03 Step four Place Fabric A and Fabric D together right side (RS) facing, matching the 64cm (25in) edges, and pin. Sew and press the seams open. Step five Place this section RS down on the quilt top so that it covers some of Fabric B and C. Make sure it is at an angle and is slightly overlapping the edges of the quilt top to leave room for seam allowances. Pin in place and sew 5mm (¼in) from the edge of Fabric B and C. 04 Step six Trim off the excess, leaving a 5mm (¼in) seam, and press the seam open. 05 Step seven Using the straight sides of Fabric E and C as a guide, trim back the quilt top to create straight sides. The quilt top is going to be quilted so doesn’t have to be a certain size. 06
MAKING THE QUILT Step one Pin and sew the two backing pieces together with RS facing. Press seams open. The backing fabric needs to be bigger than the quilt top. Leftover fabric will be used to make binding.
Step two Lay the quilt top over the backing and trim the extra backing from the edge without a seam. The seam can be in the centre or to one side but you need at least 7.5cm (3in) of backing around each edge of the quilt top. Step three Cut five strips 6.5cm (2.5in) wide from the leftover backing fabric for the binding. Step four Place the backing RS down, the wadding on top and then the quilt top RS up. Smooth all layers out from the centre. Step five Mark horizontal lines 7.5cm (3in) apart using an erasbale fabric pen. Pin or tack the layers together, ensuring the quilt sandwich is smooth. Quilt along the lines – a walking foot will help to stop puckers in the quilt. Step six Trim the quilt to measure approx 140x120cm (55x47in).
FINISHING OFF Step one Sew the binding strips together at the short ends using diagonal seams. Press the seams open and trim away the small triangles at the joins. Fold in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together, and press. Step two Sew the binding to the RS of the quilt and mitre the corners. Before completing the binding, fold the short raw edge of the starting piece under and insert the ending piece into it so that raw edges are hidden neatly. Step three Fold the binding to the back of the quilt and then hand or machine-stitch in place.
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Cushion YOU WILL NEED Q Fabric A: 10x115cm (4x45in) Q Fabric B 10x115cm (4x45in) Q Fabric C 10x115cm (4x45in) Q Fabric D 10x115cm (4x45in) Q Fabric E: 50x115cm (20x45in), for diamonds and envelope back Q Backing fabric: 61x66cm (24x26in), for back of quilted cushion front Q Wadding: 61x66cm (24x26in) Q Quilting ruler with 60-degree angle Q Rotary cutter Q Matching thread Q Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED The fabrics used are by Moda. From the Bella Solids collection: Bunny Hill Pink, Zen Grey, Almond, Etchings, Feather. From the Savannah collection by Gingiber for Moda: Flurry Charcoal. Visit www. modafabric.co.uk NOTES Q The finished size is 61x39cm (24x15½in). Q Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance.
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CUTTING OUT Step one From Fabric E cut: Cushion back: two rectangles 40x39cm (16x15½in). Step two From Fabrics A, B, C, D and E cut: Strips for diamonds: 8.5x115cm (3.5x45in).
CUTTING THE DIAMONDS Step one Take one of the fabric strips and fold it in half with the selvedges aligned – this will allow you to cut two diamonds at a time. Using a quilting ruler and rotary cutter, line up the 60-degree angle along the edge of a diamond strip and cut to create the first angle. 01 Step two Align the 8.5cm (3½in) measurement on the quilting ruler with the cut edge to create a diamond shape. Cut along this line to create the first diamond. 02 Step three Repeat this step using the fabric strips to create eight diamonds in Fabric B and nine diamonds in each of Fabrics A, C, D and E.
ASSEMBLING THE ROWS Step one Arrange the diamonds into rows, referring to the image for placement. 03 Step two The diamonds are sewn in rows, working from left to right for each row. Take two diamonds and place them right sides (RS) together – there will be a slight overlap where the tip of the diamonds will extend beyond the seam line – and sew. The 5mm (¼in) seam
should start where the tips overlap. 04 Step three Continue adding diamonds to create the rows. Press the seams open. 05
JOINING THE ROWS TOGETHER Step one Place the first two rows RS together and pin at the seams. To maintain accuracy, it helps to match the tips of the diamonds that extend beyond the seam. Step two Sew together and then repeat to sew all rows together. Press the seams open. As you are joining the rows, check the placement – the rows are staggered, so make sure you are aligning the correct seams to maintain the arrangement created in the previous step. Step three Layer the backing fabric, wadding and cushion front to create a quilt sandwich. Quilt as desired. We quilted straight vertical lines either side of the seams. Trim to create a 40x62cm (16x24.5in) rectangle. 06 Step four Take the fabric pieces for the envelope back, fold one of the longer edges over by 5mm (¼in), press then fold a further 5mm (¼in) over to the wrong side. Sew along this edge to hem. Repeat on the other back piece. Step five With the cushion front facing RS up, place the envelope back pieces on top RS down. The hemmed edges should face towards the middle and overlap to create the envelope. Sew around all edges and then trim the corners. Turn RS out and press to finish.
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STITCH y r a r lib
cut out & Keep
Trim your tree with pretty stitching with Mollie Johanson’s felt baubles embellished in woven cross stitch.
WovEn CroSs StiTch
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YOU WILL NEED
WORKING THE WOVEN CROSS STITCH
Q Felt fabric: 20x30cm (8x12in) Q Linen fabric: 14x14cm (5½in) Q Stranded cotton in two shades Q Iron-on interfacing Q Gold sequins Q Polyester fibrefill Q Basic sewing kit Q Matching thread
Step one Form a standard cross stitch, starting at the bottom left and making the first line, then coming up at the bottom right and making the second line. Come up again at the first starting point on the bottom left, then go back down at the top right. 01 Step two Bring the needle up again at the bottom right. Weave the needle over the second angled stitch and under the first angled stitch. Go down at the top left to complete the stitch. 02
NOTES Q Download the templates at www. simplysewingmag.com/downloads
MAKING THE BAUBLE Step one Press iron-on interfacing to the back of the linen and mark the large pattern in the center. Embroider the woven cross stitches with six strands of stranded cotton. At each of the dots, come through the fabric with six strands of stranded cotton, thread a sequin onto the needle and thread, then stitch a French knot to secure. Cut the embroidered linen to 4.5x12cm (17⁄8x4¾in). Step two Cut two matching 4.5x12cm (17⁄8x4¾in) pieces of felt. 03 Step three Sew the two felt pieces to the top and bottom of the linen right sides (RS) together. Step four Cut the joined pieces into a circle using the template. Stitch a line of running stitch on the felt near the two seams with six strands of stranded cotton to neaten. Cut a second circle from felt for the backing. 04 Step five Sew the two circles together with RS
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facing, leaving a 5cm (2in) turning gap. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk, then turn the bauble RS out. Stuff the bauble. 05 Step six Fold the seam allowance to the inside and slip stitch the opening closed. Step seven To add a hanging loop, thread a needle with metallic gold thread and then take a stitch through the top back of the bauble. Make sure it’s centered. Tie the ends of the thread together about 8cm (31⁄8in) from the bauble and trim the excess thread. 06 Step eight To make the smaller bauble, stitch the small pattern on felt, but instead of sewing and turning it RS out, hand-stitch the two layers wrong sides facing with running stitch.
festive firs Add a little sparkle to a table, shelf or dresser with Elspeth Jackson’s sequinadorned tabletop tree decoration.
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PREPARING THE WOODEN BASE
Q Fabric A: 30x20cm (12x8in) for sections 1 and 4 Q Fabric B: 30x20cm (12x8in), for sections 2 and 5 Q Fabric C: 15x15cm (6x6in), for section 3 Q Polyester fibrefill: 30g Q Wooden cube: 6cm (23⁄8in) Q White spray paint Q Bamboo skewer: 5mmx24cm (¼x10in), cut to length Q Drill with 5mm (¼in) drill bit Q Glue gun and glue sticks Q Sequins Q Matching thread Q Basic sewing kit
Step one Measure and mark the centre of the wooden cube with a pencil. Step two Drill a 5mm (¼in) wide and approx. 4cm (15⁄8in) deep hole in the centre of the wooden block. 01 Step three Spray paint the wooden cube and bamboo skewer white. Leave to dry.
FABRICS USED Fabrics are from the Craftbound collection by Art Gallery Fabrics. Fabric A – Rhombi Abroad. Fabric B – East West Arrowheads. Fabric C – Sowing Trails. For stockists visit www.hantex.com NOTES Q Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance. Q Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/ downloads
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CUTTING OUT Step one Download and print the five tree template sections then cut them out. Step two From Fabric A cut: 2 using template 1 and 2 using template 4. Step three From Fabric B cut: 2 using template 2 and 2 using template 5. Step four From Fabric C: Cut 2 using template 3.
02
SEWING THE SHAPES TOGETHER Step one Pin two of each matching fabric shapes right sides (RS) together. Step two Sew around each pair, leaving a seam allowance of 5mm (¼in) all the way around. Leave a 1.5cm (5⁄8in) gap at the top of each section, except for section 1. Leave a 5mm (¼in) gap at the bottom of all sections. 03
STUFFING THE TREE Step one Turn each shape inside out and press. Step two Stuff each shape with polyester
fibrefill. Use a pencil or knitting needle to poke the stuffing carefully into each section so they are firmly and evenly filled. Don’t worry if there is a little poking out the top and bottom. 04
ASSEMBLING THE TREE Step one Slide sections one and two onto the skewer. Section one should be balanced at the top of the skewer and section two just below. Step two If needed, poke more stuffing into both sections to make sure they are full. Step three Turn the skewer so section one points down. Use the glue gun to apply glue around the skewer on the bottom of section one. Don’t use too much or it will ooze out. Step four Slide section two downwards to join it to section one. Hold firmly until the glue dries. Step five Slide each remaining section onto the skewer in size order. As in steps three and four, glue section two to three, section three to four and section four to five. 05 Step six Once all the sections are securely glued together, hand-sew the bottom of section five closed around the skewer using a ladder stitch.
FINISHING OFF Step one Attach the sequins onto the tree as baubles by hand-sewing or using a glue gun. 06 Step two Insert the bottom of the bamboo skewer into the hole in the wooden base. Push it in firmly to ensure the tree is stable.
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With Christmas just around the corner, our to-do lists are extending at a rate even our new sewing machines can't keep up with! Cue: Handmade Christmas, your bonus gift with this issue.* Packed with easy-to-follow projects, this specially curated book features 20 easy-to-sew makes, such as these appliquéd sacks – great for personalising! Plus there's cheery decorations to transform your home and toys for the kids, too. Find something for everyone and get sewing for the most colourful celebration of the year.
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* PAPER GIFTS ONLY AVAILABLE ON UK NEWSSTAND
Use your Handmade Christmas book to sew gifts for the family
HANDMADE CHRISTMAS Sewing Quarter designers offer their top sewing tips, tricks and ideas to make this year’s festive season extra-special. Written by Sarah Gane.
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A GOOD R AD
LOUISE KEL LY
C
hristmas is a season of two halves. On the one hand, the festive period offers a chance to relax, spend time with our friends and family, enjoy good food (and drink!) and exchange gifts with loved ones. On the other, as sewists and makers, this is our time to shine! Crafting handmade gifts – often working late into the night or in the early hours of the morning – for our favourite people is a joy, but can also add to an already packed diary of festive fun. As many of us know, last-minute makes are part and parcel of such a busy time of year, but that doesn't mean it has to be stressful. Here, a few of our favourite Sewing Quarter designers share their tips for Christmas crafting.
Merry making “Christmas sewing, for me, is such a joy,” says Doll-maker and author, Louise Kelly (www. instagram.com/loulovesthis). “If I’m totally honest, I start thinking about it around March and April, so come the end of the summer I'm absolutely yearning for cosy evenings and fluffy socks!” Nevertheless, if you, like us, haven’t been ticking things off your handmade gift list earlier on in the year, don’t despair. There’s no time like the present (pun intended), so kicking off your planning now will maximise the time you have. If you’ve already bought fabric or gathered ideas and inspiration images from Pinterest, Instagram or magazines, the trick is to get it all down on paper in one place. Making a list of who you’re sewing for enables you to face the tasks at hand and plan your time and budgets accordingly. For those of us who have a pile of gifts to make, or particularly complex projects, drafting up a grid on a white board, using free Christmas calendar printables, or decorating a basic sketchbook with embellishments to form a custom planner can all help. Armed
Louise Kelly advises that "whatever their interests are, look for fabrics with prints to reflect them" when making gifts for family and friends.
with a pen and ruler, create a series of columns including names, ideas, deadlines and the materials you'll need. Include things such as fabric requirements, notions and costs, too. Planning thoroughly now could save you on shipping by buying in bulk or using any promotional discount codes later. Much like budgets, it’s no secret that time is also limited during this busy season. Being overly optimistic about what you can get done can lead to unnecessary stress, as Claire-Louise Hardie, creative director and owner of the Thrifty Stitcher (www.thethrifty stitcher.co.uk) explains: “It’s all very well planning a complex project, but the festive season places many demands on our time and you may not get it finished. Simple elegance is always in fashion!” And, don't forget: "Order supplies early to avoid the postal rush!” Working backwards from the due date to form a realistic plan that’ll fit around your regular commitments is the key. Be sure to factor in downtime as well – lunches with friends, shopping, family meet-ups and parties are all part of the Christmas period, so don't forget to include these in your plans. “The biggest thing to remember is to give yourself plenty of time,” confirms Jane Alcock, owner of The Corner Patch (www.thecorner patch.co.uk). “Things always take a bit longer than you think – even the smallest project can take a couple of days. So start now rather than at the beginning of December!”
“Christmas sewing is such a joy for me, I start thinking about it around March OR April!"
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Deciding what to make If you’re stuck for project ideas and inspiration, creating decorations can be a fantastic way of providing a meaningful token to loved ones.
JA NE A LCOCK
HA RDIE CLAIRE-LOUISE
A GOOD R AD
M A NDY SHAW
Mandy Shaw enjoys making gifts for people she knows will "love and appreciate them." And who wouldn't love this cute doll advent from one of her SQ shows!
LUCY BREN NA N Quilter Lucy Brennan looks for "blender fabrics in Christmas collections such as dots, stripes and gingham because I know I can easily use those in projects all year round."
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“I do make Christmas gifts, but only for people who I know would love and appreciate them” says Mandy Shaw of Dandelion Designs (www. dandeliondesigns.co.uk). “I make Christmas tree decorations and package them in a little box so they are a delight to receive.” Creating these sorts of things in batches and then tweaking the embellishments and colours, is also an easy way of personalising them. “I love to embroider words,” says Louise. “There’s no better way to add a personal touch to your handmade festive projects. Stitch the recipient’s name, nickname and the date. Or, if you’re making a gift for a family then you could stitch the family name.” Not keen on your own handwriting? Use a font you like, writing directly onto the fabric with an erasable marker, she suggests, “then simply embroider over the top using a backstitch.” “It’s always nice to take a little time to add personalisation,” adds quilter, teacher and designer Lucy Brennan (www.charmabout you.com). “Monograms or names are always well-received. Sew on a label with a little message, a favourite quote or phrase.” For author and designer Jenniffer Taylor (www.jenniffertaylor.co.uk), you can’t beat a bit of upcycling (try her hat refashion on p63!). “Nothing can be more personal than taking a once-owned garment and making it into something new, and seeing their face when they recognise the fabric or print… priceless!” Although, she warns, it’s a good idea to ensure they were planning on getting rid of a garment before you start cutting! If you’re thinking of tackling a toy or doll, it can be tempting to choose the fabrics and styles that you yourself like, but the trick is to put yourself in the mind of the lucky recipient.
LOR JEN NIFFER TAY “What colours do they like? Does she wear vibrant red lippy? Does he have a perfectly manicured moustache? Perhaps they love unicorns or sloths, or have a cat obsession? Whatever their interests are, look for fabrics with prints to reflect them,” advises Louise. Don’t be afraid to go for practical pressies either, as Lucy tells us. “Make Christmas gifts for people that value the time and work you have put into the gifts. While it is lovely to make pretty items, could you also make something practical they will enjoy using? Quilts and storage bags are examples.” “I make accessories or homewares,” says Claire-Louise Hardie. “Garments like PJ bottoms or waterfall cardigans are a good choice, too. Sometimes I make multiples of the same item. Last year was beanie-style hats; another year it was hand-warmers and infinity scarves.” Jane Alcock, meanwhile, focuses on thoughtful treats tailored to each recipient: “A pincushion for a sewing friend, a scissor keep for my hairdresser, a bag for my niece.” The same can be said for bag-maker and founder and owner of www.u-handbag.com, Lisa Lam. “I do give bags, but as the years have gone by I have given fewer of them. I like to make useful things like aprons, wall storage pockets, jewellery pouches, girls’ dresses or hair accessories.” When planning out your projects, she suggests thinking of existing things they already own as a starting point. “I’d make bags that match your loved one’s outfits. For instance, how about making a bag that goes with their favourite coat or shoes?” Fabric choices will largely depend on the item itself and its recipient, but there are a few favourite trends you might want to explore. “I like to look out for blender fabrics in the Christmas collections such as dots, stripes and gingham because I know I can easily use those in future projects all year round mixed with other fabrics,” says Lucy. “A particular favourite
“It’s always nice to take a little time to add personalisation, like monograms or names."
A GOOD R AD R R Follow these go-to hints and tips when making gifts this season.
Safety first Sewing a bag for someone special? Lisa Lam suggests one that matches their best outfit: "How about making a bag that goes with their favourite coat or shoes?”
"When making Christmas toys, make sure that any little extra embellishments such as bells, beads and buttons are very securely attached. It’s also important that toys are not given to children under the age of three to play with.” Jo Carter
Consider using a walking foot
LISA LA M that I’m sure will be popular again this year is Kerry Goulder’s (www.kidgiddy.etsy.com) ‘Ugly Christmas Sweater Block Pattern’. She has foundation paper pieced and appliqued versions. It is really fun fussy cutting fabrics for the block, and they aren’t at all ugly!” For toy-maker Jo Carter (www.twoowls. typepad.co.uk), it's quirky festive fabric that’s caught her eye: “The new Cactus Christmas fabric by Crimson Tate for Alexander Henry looks fantastic,” she comments. “Cactuses strung with fairy lights and cowboy boots – a Christmas theme with a twist... I can’t wait to add some to my festive stash.” You don’t have to limit yourself to sewing projects either, as Jenniffer reveals: “I try to make Christmas gifts, but this can be little handmade projects – for instance, last year I made Christmas-inspired chocolate wrapped in hand-printed paper, and mulled wine hampers.”
Add a little sparkle If you’re crafting items for you and your home and stuck for ideas, look to your decorations as a clue. “Think about the colours or themes that you gravitate towards in your own home,” advises Louise. “Is your house a white winter wonderland, or in traditional red and green? Make a representation of each family member with festive outfits to match. And whatever you do, remember, it’s Christmas... add glitter!” Crafting your own decorations can also make you feel nice and Christmassy, as Jo tells us: “Making decorations for the house, quilts and advent calendars are a great way to get in the festive mood. I’m working on a bauble
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quilt with Tula Pink’s Holiday Homies fabric range. I think that will be my new favourite.” Forming new traditions can also lead to treasured keepsakes for future generations. “For the last four Christmases I have made a new Gingerbread house, just like the one I made for the Sewing Quarter, to display in my dining room,” says Louise. “I’d like to have enough for a street, and then a village, full of gingerbread houses! Each one I stitch the date on it to remind me in years to come.”
Time-saving tips Last-minute makes are inevitable and all part of the festive fun – and that’s when utilising smaller scraps of time for quick projects comes into play. “Small, hand-sewn felt decorations are very easy to make.” Their portability means you can pop them in your bag for a long car or train journey and make on the go. “I especially love making tiny white felt bunting for the tree,” says Mandy. “I use baker’s twine for the string and decorate with red buttons – it looks really lovely against the green of the tree.” Louise agrees, adding that “themed garlands are easy and quick. Sketch your shapes onto card and cut them out. Try winter clothing shapes such as mittens, socks and hats.” While it’s always lovely to give something completely handmade, you could always take a bit of the pressure off by customising a few purchased items. “Don’t be frightened to add to a shop-bought present,” says Jane. “Make a purse to go with a handbag, add appliqué to a T-shirt or embellish a Christmas wreath." So, whether you make big, complicated projects or small tokens of appreciation, “the best piece of advice I have been given is ‘a finished quilt is the best quilt’ – get it finished and learn from the process,” says Jane. “Don’t worry about slightly wonky stitching; the person you are giving it to will love it because you made it for them.” Tune into Sewing Quarter on Freeview 73, Sky 687 and online at www.sewingquarter.com
“Bag-making is infinitely easier, and more precise, with a walking foot. I use mine for 90% of all my sewing (including dressmaking). A walking foot makes working with bag-making layers so much easier.” Lisa Lam
Don’t sweat the small stuff “All too often we get caught up in the pursuit of perfection... don’t worry about that one wonky stitch or the doll dress that is a bit too loose. That is exactly what adds character and handmade charm to your makes. Enjoy the process!” Louise Kelly
Raise a glass "The best-kept sewing secret at Christmas? Mulled wine! "
Jenniffer Taylor
JO CA RTER
Toy-maker Jo emphasises the importance of safety when sewing toys: "make sure that any little extra embellishments such as bells, beads and buttons are securely attached."
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SEW IT! Easy circle skirt Party top hack Jersey poncho
Get party ready with 20 projects to sew for the season! HOW TO: Jumper refashion
Sew with jersey
Mak
work quilt
r ready with 20 projects to sew for the season!
Pattern hack
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Sew with jersey
Make a patchwork quilt
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Pattern hack
sugar and spice Pack away the baking set and whip up a gingerbread house that’s just as sweet as the real thing with Jo Carter’s how-to.
ging rbr ad hous 01
02
03
07
08
09
YOU WILL NEED Q Medium brown fabric A: 50x60cm (20x24in) Q White fabric B: 30x115cm (12x45in) Q Red and white striped fabric C: 15x65cm (6x26in), or 46x56cm (18x22in) if cutting on bias to give a diagonal stripe Q Lining fabric D: 22x115cm (9x45in) Q Red fabric E: 27x27cm (11x11in) Q Dark brown fabric F: 20x20cm (8x8in) Q Light blue fabric G: 7x15cm (3x6in) Q Green fabric H: 14x28cm (6x11in) Q Green fabric I: 10x20cm (4x8in) Q Green felt J: 5x5cm (2x2in) Q Piping cord: 4mmx64cm (¼x25in) Q Foam stabiliser: 45x85cm (18x34in) Q Bondaweb: 25x25cm (10x10in) Q Iron-on interfacing: 14x14cm (6x6in) Q Toy stuffing Q Selection of beads and buttons Q Stranded cotton in black and green Q Matching thread Q Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Fabric A: Kona Cotton Solids in Biscuit by Robert Kaufman. Fabric B: Spectrum Solid in Optical White by Makower.
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Fabric C: Cotton Poplin Stripes in Red and White by Rose and Hubble. Fabric D: Christmas Twinkle in Multi, Eat, Drink and Be Ugly by Sandy Gervais by Moda. Fabric E: Kona Cotton Solids in Cardinal by Robert Kaufman. Fabric F: Kona Cotton Solids in Earth by Robert Kaufman. Fabric G: Kona Cotton Solids in Dusty Blue by Robert Kaufman. Fabric H: Spectrum Solid in Foliage Green by Makower. Fabric I: Linea Texture in Green by Makower. Bosal foam wadding: Sewing Studio, Bath. www.sewingstudiobath.com FINISHED SIZE Approx 16cm(W) x 20cm(L) x 18cm(H) (6½x8x7in). NOTES Q Use a 6mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise noted. Q The templates include seam allowances where necessary. Q The arrows on the pattern pieces indicate pattern/pile direction for marking and cutting out.
CUTTING OUT Step one Download, print and cut out the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/ downloads Step two Note that when the pattern specifies to cut 2 or more of a pattern piece, after marking out half of the pieces required the template needs to be turned over to mark out the remaining half so that the pieces are cut as mirror images. Step three Trace the pattern pieces onto the wrong side (WS) of the fabric and cut out. From medium brown fabric A: Front house: cut 1 using the template. Mark the door on the right side (RS) but don’t cut it out at this stage. Back house: cut 1 using the template. Side house: cut 2 using the template. Base: cut 1 using the template. Gingerbread man: cut 2 using the template. Step four From white fabric B: Side roof: cut 2 using the template. Middle roof: cut 1 using the template . Roof lining: cut 1 using the template. Roof binding: cut on the straight grain: 6.5x115cm (25⁄8x45in). Step five From red and white striped fabric C: Piping strip: cut on the bias or straight grain 2.5x64cm (1x25¼in). Candy cane: cut 4 using the template. Step six From lining fabric D: Side lining: 22x75cm (8¾x29½).
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Base lining: cut 1 using the template. Step seven From red fabric E: Door: cut 2. Step eight From green fabric H: Large tree: cut 2. Step nine From green fabric I: Small tree: cut 2. Step ten From green felt scrap fabric J: Wreath: cut 1. Step eleven From the foam stabiliser cut: Front/Back: 2 pieces 21x20cm (8¼x77⁄8in). Side: 2 pieces 16x22cm (63⁄8x8¾in). Base: 22x20cm (8¾x77⁄8in). Roof: 2 pieces 12x22cm (4¾x8¾in). Door: 15x11cm (6x43⁄8in). Gingerbread man: 14x12cm (5½x4¾in).
JOINING THE PIECES Step one Using the relevant templates, trace the following pieces onto the backing paper side of the Bondaweb: two windows, two window frames, one upper door frame and one heart. 01 Step two Cut each shape out and then fuse to the WS of the corresponding fabric. Allow to cool and then cut out neatly. Step three Peel away the backing paper and fuse the appliqué patches to the house panels, using the lines on the templates as a guide.
ATTACHING THE APPLIQUÉ AND PIPING Step one Right sides facing up, centre the house
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front, back, base and side panels on their corresponding foam stabiliser pieces and tack. Step two Quilt around the appliqué patches to fully secure and then quilt the remaining area as you prefer. Step three Quilt around the outside of the doorframe to hold the fabric in place later when cut out. Step four Any embellishments that will not interfere with later seams can be added at this stage. Trim away the excess stabiliser overhanging the edges. 02 Step five With WS together, fold the piping strip over lengthways with the piping cord sandwiched inside. Starting at one end, put a pin through the fabric and piping cord to hold the fold and the cord in position. Pin along the strip to hold the raw edges of the fabric level. Using a zip or piping foot, sew along the length close to the cord to encase it. Trim into four pieces each measuring 16cm (63⁄8in). Keep the zip foot on the machine. 03 Step six Tack the piping to either side of the front and back pieces. Trim the ends so that they follow the line of the house panel edge. 04
ASSEMBLING THE WALLS Step one With RS facing, sew a side house to each side of the front house, but do not sew all the way to the end. Instead, make sure the seam allowance plus a fraction extra is left free to
save needing to clip later when attaching the base and roof. Step two Sew the back house onto one of the sides. Cut out the doorway and then switch back to a standard machine foot. 05
ATTACHING THE LINING Step one With RS facing, place the side house section on top of the lining, aligning the bottom edges, and pin in place all the way around, paying particular attention to the doorway. Sew around the doorway and then cut away the lining inside the doorway and clip the seam allowance around the curve. 06 Step two Turn RS out and press around the doorway. Press the rest of the lining so it is wrinkle-free and pin to the house, then topstitch around the doorway. 07 Step three Tack the lining to the house along the top and bottom edges, starting and finishing midway along each of the end panels so that the end sections of the lining are free. Trim away the excess lining. 08 Step four Using a zip foot, sew the ends of the house together. Then bring the lining ends RS together, and sew. Step five Tack the remaining loose lining to the house at the top and bottom. 09
ATTACHING THE BASE Step six With RS facing, sew the sides of the
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house to the base – it can be easier to do this one side at a time. 10 Step two Sew the base lining to the base along the front, one side and then across the back with RS facing. The sides of the house will be in between the base and the lining during sewing and so it may be more convenient to sew along the front and one side only. Turn it RS out and then hand-sew the remaining part of the lining to the base. 11
ATTACHING THE ROOF Step one With RS together, sew the middle roof along the top of one roof piece. In the same way, sew the top of the remaining roof piece to the other side. 12 Step two With WS together, place the roof on top of the roof lining and tack together around all four sides. 13 Step three With WS together, sew the roof to the house, clipping the front and back centre of the roof to allow it to turn around the apex. 14 Step four Press the binding in half lengthways. With the binding against the RS of the roof and leaving a 5cm (2in) tail of binding free at the start, sew the binding to the roof, stopping at each 90-degree corner to fold the binding to give mitred corners and clipping at the apexes. Fold each end back on itself where they meet and clip the seam allowance to 1cm (3⁄8in). 15 Step five Bring the folded edge of the binding
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over to the underside of the roof and handstitch in place.
MAKING THE DOOR Step one Quilt one of the door pieces as for the house panels. Step two Centre one gingerbread man on top of its stabiliser and tack around the outside edge to secure it and trim. Step three With RS facing, place the quilted door on top of the remaining door piece and sew together, leaving a 4-5cm (1½-2in) opening in the bottom. Clip V-shaped notches in the seam allowance around the curve, turn the right way out and press. Step four Hand-sew the opening closed and then topstitch around the edge, approx 3mm (1⁄8in) in from the edge. Step five Add the wreath to the door and blanket stitch around the sides to hold in place, and add any decorative beads and a button for the door handle.
gap and topstitching. 16 Step two If adding decorative stitches to the large tree, fuse iron-on interfacing to the back first as this will prevent any distortion of the fabric when the stitches are added. Step three With RS together, place each of the trees and the candy canes on top of their remaining pieces and sew together, leaving a 3-4cm (1-2in) opening in the bottom of each tree and in the side of the candy cane. Clip the seam allowance at the corners, clip around the internal curve and clip V-shaped notches around the external curve for the candy canes. Turn RS out and stuff, add any further decoration and then close the openings. 17 Step four Neatly whipstitch one side of the door to one side of the doorframe from the bottom up to just before the curve. Hand-sew the trees and candy canes to the house and any further embellishments securely. 18
FINISHING OFF Step one Make the gingerbread man in the same way as the door, but this time leaving a 2-3cm (1-1½in) opening in the side of one leg and clipping into the internal corners as well as around the curves. Embroider a face using three strands of black stranded cotton and add any further decoration before closing the turning
See Jo Carter sewing her toys live on Sewing Quarter on Freeview 78 and Sky 687, at www. sewingquarter.com, or www.youtube.com/ sewingquarter
FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC
The guide
PinKing SheArs These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten.
nd essential information, useful stitches and key sewing techniques on these pages.
MarKing pen Transfer markings to your fabric, then wash them out when finished.
Tape MeaSure
Pins
A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements.
Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best.
SheArs Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric.
FabRic CliPs Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics.
MarKing PenCil Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric.
SmaLl SciSsors Use for snipping threads and cutting notches.
TaiLoR’s ChaLks Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away.
ThiMble Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching.
Seam RipPer This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches.
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FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC
The guide HeiGhT
HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath
your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting in the right places. Make sure the tape measure sits snugly around you but is not pulled tight. Take the measurements shown in the diagram and note them down.
HOW TO USE A PATTERN Preparing your fabric and cutting out your sewing pattern accurately is just as important as the actual sewing. Wash your fabric before you begin as fabric can shrink and run. Once dry, press it well. PREPARING THE PATTERN Patterns often come with several options of different finishes so you may have more pieces than you need. The instruction sheet will tell you which pieces to use. Roughly cut out all of the pieces outside the lines then press the pieces using a dry iron on a low heat to remove the folds and creases. CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN Choose your size using your measurements and the size chart. Cut along the corresponding lines on your pattern. When you reach any fiddly curves, take care to cut along the correct size lines. CUTTING LAYOUTS Choose the correct one for the width of fabric you’re using, the
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size you’re cutting and the style of garment. Many patterns have more than one option (or view) and each one can have a different layout. CUTTING OUT Lay your fabric flat and smooth it out. Fold or place the fabric as shown on the cutting layout. Lay the pattern pieces in the order and right side or wrong side up as shown. Check to make sure that the grainlines on the pattern are parallel with the selvedges by measuring. Pin your pattern pieces carefully in place and cut around them through the fabric using a pair of dressmaker’s shears. TRANSFERRING MARKINGS The markings on the pattern pieces need to be transferred to the fabric. They’re really important for matching up fabric pieces later and for positioning elements such as darts and pockets. You can mark these with chalk, fabric markers, snips on the fabric, or with small tacking stitches.
Back WaiSt LenGth From the top of your spine at the base of your neck to your natural waist
Stand against a wall, barefoot, then measure from the top of your head to the floor
High Bust/CheSt Across the back, under your arms and above the bust
Bust Around the fullest part of your bust
WaiSt Your natural waistline, around the slimmest part of your waist
Hips Around the fullest and widest part of your thighs and bottom
PATTERN MARKINGS Pleats: These lines are matched Arrows: Grainline arrows are used up to create pleats on the cut to show which direction to pin the out fabric pieces. pattern on the fabric. The grainline runs parallel to the fabric edge.
Darts: These lines are for matching up to create darts within the fabric pieces.
Notches: Shown as triangles or small lines, these are marked on the edges and are mainly used for matching up pattern pieces.
CHOOSING AND BUYING FABRICS IT’S IMPORTANT TO CHOOSE the correct fabric for your pattern. Most patterns give suggested fabric types that will work best with the style of garment. Use this to guide you as some patterns need more drape, body or structure than others. Fabric can be made from natural fibres such as cotton, linen, wool and silk or synthetic fibres such as acetate, acrylic, nylon, polyester, rayon and viscose. All these fabric come in different weights, or thicknesses, which suit different garments. Lightweight fabrics are ideal for lingerie, nightwear and summer clothing, and include cheesecloth, chiffon, crepe-de-chine, georgette, lawn, muslin, organdie, organza and voile. Medium-weight fabrics, which work for dresses, shirts, trousers and childrenswear, include calico, cotton, crepe, dupion, linen, poplin and finer wool. Heavy-weight fabrics are used for garments or projects needing more strength, like coats, jackets, winter wear and bags. Canvas, corduroy, denim, tweeds, velvet and wool are all in this category. Some patterns require fabrics that are quite fluid and have a good drape to make them hang properly, such as a circle skirt or blouse. Synthetic or synthetic mix fabrics such as rayon, challis, chiffon or lightweight jersey have a better drape to them. Stretch and knit fabrics such as jersey and lycra are virtually crease free and comfortable to wear. They
can be bought in a variety of thicknesses and qualities depending on their use but are ideal for sportswear and casual clothing. Interfacing gives an extra layer of support to your fabric – for example, to stiffen facings and collars. Choose an interfacing that’s slightly lighter than your main fabric, and if you’re using a fusible (iron-on) option then always test it on a scrap of the fabric first as it can melt if the iron is too hot. Interfacing is available in different weights and as an iron-on (fusible) or sew-in version. With fusible interfacing, press the shiny side to the wrong side of your fabric. Tack sew-in interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric pieces around the edges. If you’re buying fabric off a roll (or bolt) then you’ll usually buy it by the metre. This is only the length of the fabric you’re buying – the width depends on the width of the roll. Fabrics are sold in standard widths, which vary according to their purpose – for example, dressmaking or quilting fabric generally comes in standard widths of 112cm (44in) or 150cm (60in). Curtain or soft furnishing fabric is normally 137cm (54in) wide and is really useful for bags and aprons as it’s thicker and stronger than dressmaking fabrics. The fabric requirements on the pattern instructions will tell you what length of fabric to buy, usually with two width choices. Some patterns, such as large circle skirts, can only be cut from the wider fabrics.
MACHINE NEEDLES
There are many diferent needle types and they vary by the shape of the point, eye and shaft thickness. Choose the correct one for smooth stitching.
UniVeRsal A great multi-purpose needle which can be used for woven fabrics and has a slightly rounded point for stitching knit fabrics, too.
ShaRps With a sharp point, these are for sewing very fine and delicate fabrics and neat buttonholes.
QuiLting This will pierce multiple layers whilst keeping straight stitches so it is ideal for patchwork and machine quilting.
LeaTher Ball PoiNt This needle has a more rounded point than the universal needle so you won’t get snags, ladders or holes. Perfect for knit fabrics.
This needle’s wedge-shaped cutting point is used to work strong seams on non-woven fabrics like leather, suede and vinyl.
StrEtch JeaNs A strong needle, ideal for stitching several layers of fabric or tightly woven fabrics like denims.
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Designed for sewing two-way stretch knits such as lycra and silk jersey. It prevents skipped stitches on fine knit fabrics.
TopStItch This has an extra-sharp point and eye, so thicker topstitching thread can be used. It’s perfect for straight stitching with thicker threads on any type of fabric.
Twin Used for parallel rows of stitching such as pintucks and hems.
ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop the fabric from fraying but large enough to enclose the bulk of the fabric. Practise a few lengths and widths before you begin. Alternatively, you can trim the raw fabric edges with a pair of pinking shears. If you have an overlocker then you can stitch, cut and finish the seams all in one process.
UK SIZE
US SIZE
FABRIC
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Silks
70
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75
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Lightweight fabrics Medium weight fabrics Medium weight fabrics Medium weight fabrics Heavy weight fabrics Upholstery fabrics/denim Heavy canvas
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FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC
The guide GLOSSARY
For a full glossary of sewing terms visit www.simplysewingmag.com
DraPe A term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight. Different fabrics have different drape qualities.
Ease The addition of extra fabric in a pattern to allow the finished garment to fit the body well.
EdgEsTitCh A row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, usually 2-3mm (1⁄16-1⁄8in) from the folded or seamed edge. Used to hold the fabric edge neatly in place.
FacIng This pattern piece is cut separately to stabilise and create a neat finish on the edge of a garment, such as the neckline.
fat QuaRter A term used to describe a cut piece of fabric often used for patchwork projects, usually measuring 46x55cm (18x22in).
FinIsHing/NeaTeNing raw EdgEs This is done to stop the fabric edges, particularly of a seam, from fraying. It can be done by machine zigzag stitch, using an overlocker or trimming the raw edge with pinking shears.
GraIn/GraInLine The lengthwise fabric grain, running parallel to the selvedge.
nap Fabrics like velvet, corduroy and fur have hairs or loops which all lie in one direction and are called the nap, or pile. When cutting out pattern pieces make sure the grainline arrow always runs in the direction of the nap.
NotIons Small tools or accessories used
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in sewing such as zips, fasteners, lace and buttons.
STITCH GUIDE Use these basic hand stitches to complete your home and dressmaking projects.
RigHt Side (rs) / WroNg Side (ws) The right side of the fabric, also called the ‘public’ side, has the design on it. The wrong side is the other side – this is usually a little duller or faded on plain fabrics.
Seam AllOwAnce The fabric between the raw or cut edge of the fabric and the seam is called the seam allowance. Your pattern will tell you the required seam allowance measurement. This is usually 1.5cm (5⁄8in) for dressmaking, but can vary.
SelVedge The finished woven edge of fabric, often with the fabric name printed on it. The grain runs parallel to this and the bias diagonally. Called selvage in the US.
StaYsTitChing A line of regular machine stitching usually worked 3mm (1⁄8in) inside the seam line, often used to stabilise curved edges to stop them stretching out of shape.
Tack/TacKing A line of temporary stitching used to hold fabric pieces together before machine sewing, worked in the same way as running stitch. Known as basting in the U.S.
TopStItcHing A line of stitching worked 5mm (¼in) from the folded or seam edge. Used to hold the seam in place and as a decorative finish.
UndErStiTcHing A line of stitching worked through the facing and seam allowance 3mm (1⁄8in) from the seam to stop the facing rolling to the outside of the garment. Understitching will not be visible on the outside.
LadDer StiTch Used to join together and close 2 3 5 two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft 1 toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on 4 one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1⁄8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges.
Slip StiTch This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch 3 2 a turned-under edge to a flat 1 piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it can’t be seen from the front. Repeat this by making a vertical stitch back into the turned-under edge then continue in this way to complete the hem.
Whip StiTch Whipstitch is used to join the edges of two fabrics together, such as felt and other fabrics that don’t fray. With the right sides 2 1 together, bring your needle out at 1 on the front of the fabric, then over to the back of the other, and through and out at 2. Continue to work small stitches close together over the top of the two fabric edges.
RunNing StiTch This can be used to gather fabric and as a decorative stitch worked around the edge of a finished 4 3 2 1 project. Bring the needle out at 1, in at 2, then out at 3 and in at 4, and so on. Make the length of the stitches the same length as the gaps between them for an even finish. You can work several running stitches on your needle at once.
Fill up your stash with fabric, patterns and more from these fabulous shops! SOUTH
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In our Etsy Shop we have a great range of fashion, craft and quilting fabrics, ribbons, patterns and haberdashery. etsy.com/shop/wisteriamagic
Silks & velvet. Natural, printed and dyed. Small quantities at wholesale prices. 01386 881507 beckfordsilk.co.uk
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Family-run fabric & haberdashery, quality dressmaking & craft fabrics as well as lessons – now stocking new Liberty cotton collection. 01726 75385
Workshops and courses for adults and children of all levels, craft supplies, patterns and fabric available online and in store. leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk
An independent sewing store in Chapeltown, Sheffield, stocking a range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink.
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NORTH
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Tailored to meet your personal needs whether you are a seasoned sewer or buying your first machine. Elna, Janome, Singer, Husqvarna. 01387 249580
Bright, friendly shop for all sewers, selling patterns, fabric and notions. Sewing classes for all ages and abilities from an experienced dressmaker. romys-sewing.co.uk
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We have a great range of fashion, craft and quilting fabrics. Also available in our Etsy shop are top quality ribbons, patterns and haberdashery. At the moment we have lots of lovely Christmas fabrics
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CALICO KATE
“Winter Tails” by Michael Miller is our featured fabric for this Christmas, making a delightful hanging or quilt. Visit our website to view this and our large range of other Christmas fabrics, Advent calendars and stockings.
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REINDEER LOVE FABRIC
Reindeer Love is a cute fabric with reindeers dressed in scarves across a linen backing cloth perfect for your Christmas crafting needs. Washable at 30 degrees, it would make a table
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This beautiful collection of blue Christmas prints are a little bit different and includes two delicate prints featuring Raymond Briggs’ The Sowman, two white on navy scandi-style prints and a traditional bauble design in modern blue and grey.
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XMAS TREES FABRIC
Christmas trees is a contemporary Christmas Fabric with red trees on a linen look background. It would make beautiful bunting, crafts or home accessories for your Christmas celebrations. Red £9.95/m. Shops in Cheltenham and Burford.
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SPRINGWOOD HOUSE DESIGNS
Springwood House Designs have a large collection of fabrics in reds, greens, golds and silver many with a Christmas theme. The fabrics are selected for their art work and timeless quality such as the popular 12 Days of Christmas panel, priced £9.50.
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CHALK HILL BLUE FARM
Stocking a wide range of Christmas fabrics in traditional and modern designs including Scandinavian style and children’s. This shows some of this year’s ranges from Makower and Moda. We are based in Worthing, West Sussex.
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IncLudes PATTERN GIFTS
Back IssUes
only
£6.99 PER ISSUE
IssUe 47
IssUe 46
IssUe 45
Make a tie-waist dress, bowling bag, rule dress, children’s room makes and a classic rag doll toy.
Stitch a boho dress and top, 1950s-style skirt, circle bag, home spa set, hexie cushion and teddy bear.
Make a 1940s-inspired tea dress, a boxy top, craft room storage, retro accessories and crocodile toy.
IssUe 44
IssUe 43
IssUe 42
Sew a statement maxi dress, boho top, beach bag, girafe toy, pineapple doorstop and shibori blind.
Make a summer dress and top, Sew Over It’s silk cami, an everyday backpack and travel accessories.
Stitch an occasion dress, sequin shrug and a clutch bag, plus bridal gifts, a satin skirt and a pig plushie.
2 Ways to OrdEr Visit the website: www.sewingquarter.com or call 0800 112 4433 *Calls will be charged at your local call rate, calls from mobiles may vary. All prices exclude p&p. All orders subject to availability.
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Coat dress set Named blouse Kitchen accessories Pleated skirt dress Christmas jumper Miniature satchel Swan cushion Snowman toy And more...
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my favourite thing
linen love Mel Thorley, aka Ditsy Tulip, shares why she'll be treasuring her classic linen dress for years to come. "I just love how sewing your own clothes can allow you to change your style with ease – no searching the busy high street or limitations on what is 'in fashion right now'. This year I turned 40 – the perfect excuse to play about with my style, I thought. I found I was inspired by different styles than I had been before, and I was gravitating towards solid colours (rather than busy prints as I had previously), clean lines and quality fabrics. It's so difficult to choose just one garment as a favourite as I love all my makes. They all have a story to tell, they all have memories of learning new skills, and they all have a great sense of achievement once complete, flaws and all, but this is definitely my favourite thing. It's By Hand London's Zeena Dress
98 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM
(www.byhandlondon.com), a simple style that suits every shape. It has such lovely lines with the box pleats through the bodice and skirt. What makes my Zeena dress really special is the fabric I used. It’s made from the most beautiful linen from Merchant and Mills (www.merchantandmills.com). The colour is soft and subtle and it drapes wonderfully. I love how the sleeves crinkle through the natural lines of the grain and the box pleats melt away through the weight of the linen. I love wearing this dress. It feels special every time that I wear it and I’m told that linen just gets better with age, so I look forward to wearing it for many years to come." See more of Mel's projects at www. handmadebyditsy-tulip.co.uk
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AUTUMN 2018
AVON • Direct Sewing Machines, Bristol – 0117 9778216
BEDFORDSHIRE • BSK Limited, Bedford – 01234 217096 • My Sewing Basket, Dunstable – 01582 969571 • Tudor Rose Patchwork, Oakley, Bedford – 01234 824983
BERKSHIRE • Sew Devine, Reading – 0118 926 8664
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE • Alans Sewing Machines, High Wycombe – 01494 527600
AMAZING ANNIVERSARY
OFFERS FROM £99
CAMBRIDGESHIRE • Sew Creative Ltd, Cambridge – 01223 350691 • Sew Much To Do, Ely – 01353 664 000
CHESHIRE • Allan Sheen Sewing Machines, Winsford – 01606 593554 • Jaycotts, Chester – 01244 394099 • J & P Sewing Machines, Warrington – 01925 633831 • Phil Morton Sewing Machines, Macclesfield – 01625 433131
MANCHESTER (GTR)
CORNWALL
MERSEYSIDE
• The Sewing Studio, Redruth – 01209 216942
• Affordable Sewing, Moreton, Wirr – 01516 777755
DERBYSHIRE • Elegance, Derby – 01332 382292 • Ilkeston Sewing & Janome Centre, Ilkeston – 01159 307664 • Sew Essential, Moira – 01283 210422
DEVON
• Bamber Sewing Machines, Manche – 01617 077786 • R. Bullock & Son Ltd, Wigan – 01942 247836
NORFOLK • Sew Creative, Norwich – 01603 3 • Sewing Machine World, Kings Lyn – 01553 773362
• Exeter Sewing Machine Company, Exeter – 01392 275660 • Soft Touch Needlecrafts, Tavistock – 01822 617673
NORTHUMBERLAND
DORSET
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE
• Bournemouth Sewing Machines, Bournemouth – 01202 424825 • Hansons Fabrics, Sturminster Newton – 01258 472698 • So N Sews, Weymouth – 01305 766411
• Cresswell Sewing Machines, Nottin – 01159 267572
ESSEX • Creative Lady, Burnham on Crouch – 01621 928225 • Franklins, Colchester – 01206 563955 & 574758 • Franklins, Chelmsford – 01245 346300 • Home of Sewing by Regent, Ilford – 02084 780669 • Superstitch Machine Co, Leigh on Sea – 01702 478830
GLOUCESTERSHIRE • The Patchwork Basket, Newent – 01531 822442 • West End Sewing Centre, Cheltenham – 01242 244025
HAMPSHIRE • Eastleigh Sewing Centre, Eastleigh – 02380 650808 • Hampshire Sewing Machines, Fareham – 01329 280499 • Reads of Winchester, Winchester – 01962 850950 • Sew Creative, Petersfield – 01730 858020
• The Sewing Box, Morpeth – 01670
OXFORDSHIRE • Witney Sewing Machine Centre, W – 01993 704535 / 702772
NEW MO
SHROPSHIRE • Sewing Machine Centre, Shrewsbu – 01743 343902
BRAND NEW
SOMERSET
OFFER
• Bredons Sewing Machines, Taunto – 01823 272450
MODEL GD8100
SUFFOLK • Franklins, Ipswich – 01473 221188 • Sew Much To Do, Bury St Edmunds – 01284 755459
SURREY
HEREFORDSHIRE
• All Surrey Sewing, Worcester Park – 02083 373444 • C & A Sewing Machines, Cranleigh – 01483 267777 • Woking Sewing Centre, Addlestone – 01932 352606
• Doughtys Fabric Warehouse, Hereford – 01432 353951
SUSSEX
HERTFORDSHIRE
• Clothkits Ltd, Chichester – 01243 533180 • Eclectic Maker, Worthing – 01903 681000 • Hastings Sewing Centre, Hastings – 01424 423108
• Chicks Embroidery, Letchworth – 01462 670007 • Rebecca Woollard Sewing School, Hatfield Heath – 07887 654717 • Rona Sewing Machines, Waltham Cross – 01992 640250 • Sewfine Sewing Machines, Watford – 01923 693734
KENT • Ashford Sewing Centre, Ashford – 01233 620948 • Barcham Sewing Centre, Whitstable – 01227 264271 • Maidstone Sewing Centre, Maidstone – 01622 670254 • The Sewing Space, Kent – 01303 261329 • The World of Sewing, Tunbridge Wells – 01892 533188
LANCASHIRE • Hobkirk Sewing Machines, Blackburn – 01254 693555 • Lestan Sewing Machines, Nelson – 01282 614511 • SA Sewing Machines, Oldham – 0161 6243181 • SA Sewing Machines, Rochdale – 01706 355529 • Transworld Sewing Machines, Leigh – 01942 608028
LEICESTERSHIRE • Cresswell Sewing Machines, Leicester – 07798 625 278 • The Sewing Café, Hinkley – 01455 698034
LINCOLNSHIRE • Couling Sewing Machines, Lincoln – 01522 521841 • L & C Fabrics, Cleethorpes – 01472 600874 • Seweezy, Gainsborough – 01427 614570
LONDON (GTR) • All Redgewell Sewing, South West London – 02083 373444 • Lewisham & Deptford Sewing Machines, Deptford – 02086 921077 • SM Sewing Machines Ltd, London – 02036 891222 • The Sewing Centre, Battersea – 02072 283022 • The World of Sewing, Pratts Bottom – 01689 638638 • Wimbledon Sewing Machine Co Ltd, Tooting Bec – 02087 670036
www.janome.co.uk
£299
e th e k a M . .. e s u to y s a E right choice first time!
TYNE & WEAR • G Tully Sewing Machines, Sunderland – 01915 65 7995 • Sewing Machine Sales, Whitley Bay – 01912 525825
WARWICKSHIRE • Coventry Sewing Centre, Coventry – 02476 222134
WILTSHIRE • Franklins, Salisbury – 01722 554466 • West Wilts Sewing Machine Co., Trowbridge – 01225 753792
WEST MIDLANDS • Brewers Sewing Machines, Wolverhampton – 01902 458885 • D C Nutt Sewing Machines, Walsall – 01922 497603 • Frank Nutt, Kings Heath – 01214 443978 • L & M Nutt, Sutton Coldfield – 01213 735497 • S Nutt Sewing Machines, Birmingham – 01213 272828
WORCESTERSHIRE • Creative Hands 2, Worcester – 01905 24940 • Inkberrow Design Centre, Redditch – 01527 69100
YORKSHIRE • Arcade Sewing Machines, Huddersfield – 01484 429808 • C & G Sewing Machines, Bradford – 01274 306352 • Electra (DA) Company, Doncaster – 01302 340369 • Fabric Mouse, Richmond – 01748 811593 • L & C Fabrics, Hull – 01482 325072 • Sewing Centre, Scarborough – 01723 363167 • White Rose Sewing Machines, Harrogate – 01423 503767
CHANNEL ISLANDS • Rachel’s Textiles Studio, Jersey – 01534 878877
ISLE OF MAN • Joan’s Wools & Crafts, Onchan – 01624 626009
IRELAND • Sew N Knit Belfast, Belfast – 02890 456015 • Sew N Knit Lisburn, Lisburn – 02892 670908 • Singer Sewing Centre, Ballymena – 02825 640034
SCOTLAND • Aberdeen Sewing Machines, Aberdeen – 01224 478555 • Abbey Sewing Machines, Dumfries – 013872 49580 • David Drummond, Edinburgh – 01315 397766 • ESC, Fochabers – 01343 823961 • Pembertons Sewing Machines, Stirling – 01786 462993 • Quilt Creations, Inverness – 01463 719369 • The Sew Studio, Dunfermline – 01383 621894
WALES • Butterfly Fabrics, Cardiff – 02920 470808 • Cliffords Sewing Machines Ltd, Swansea – 01792 655928 • J & B Sewing Machine Co Ltd, Cardiff – 02922 402418 • Newport Sewing & Craft Centre, Newport – 01633 284646 • Sewing Machines Direct, Wrexham – 01978 851235
The ‘Sewing with Style’ offers are available from Janome sewing machine retail outlets nationwide. Promotion starts 1st September until 2nd January 2018. (All offers subject to stock availability).
The world’s leading sewing machine manufacturer
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