kju

The UK's No.1 sewing mag

d o o g l e Fe Bright and bold clothes you'll love to wear

Sizes

Sizes

6-20

Make me

TODAY!

Try our flattering cord shift dress

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GIF T IDEAS!

6-20 Brilliant

BAG MAKING MASTERCL ASS Bias-cut skirt

Learn the art of a flawless jersey NECKBAND ISSUE 58 UK £8.99

Inspire Imagine Create

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On-trend FUNNEL TOP

See Emily's review on page 21!

Meet the

TEAM

… to issue 58 of Love Sewing

H

ello everyone! I know the warmer weather is starting to disappear but Love Sewing has always counted it as a personal mission to provide readers with a healthy dose of colour and joy in every issue, and this edition is no different.

We've rounded up the best projects, prizes and inspiration to make your greyest day feel sunnier.

Simon ART EDITOR Simon is passionate about design and has a keen eye for detail.

He's creative in his spare time too and we love his range of bright and cheeky enamel pins.

See more at www.instagram.com/ simonsayspins

Sew the snuggliest sweatshirt you've ever made with your McCall's pattern gift. Then embellish it with lace, contrast panels or, like we did, glitter star emblems!

You'll find the perfect fabric for your jumper from Girl Charlee on page 86 and use the cheeky 20% site-wide discount at the same time. Then indulge in a bit of Christmas pre-planning with our festive special, included with the issue. It's full of presents and home décor ideas to make your handmade Christmas even more special.

See Amy's handmade dress on page 80

This month I'm delighted to share photos from my recent wedding. So many readers and online followers sent me well wishes and encouragement along the way as I made my wedding dress. I thought you might all like to see the finished result and hear a little about the process. Occasionwear is a wonderful way to push your sewing skills in a new direction, so if you don't have a fancy

Bethany

garment to make for yourself, why not offer to make something special for another in your life? A prom dress, Christening outfit or maybe a ballgown. You'll learn so much in the process.

Last but not least, I know you're going to love our reader review this month. Emily from blog www.selfassemblyrequired.co.uk brought her fantastic mustard and monochrome sweatshirt to the studio and had a ball of a time having her photo taken. Her infectious smile made it a wonderful photoshoot. Find her review, including helpful tips, on page 21.

DEPUTY EDITOR Bethany loves nothing more than indulging in a quiet spot of cross stitch in her free time. She’s also the creator of the Make It Betty 'Sketch it Stitch it' notebooks, available at www.makeitbetty. etsy.com

Lorna EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Lorna has buckets of enthusiasm for making magazines. She's excited to see your makes so remember to send them to letters@lovesewingmag. co.uk

Inside this ISSUE REGULARS AND FEATURES

3 Welcome 6 Love Sewing Loves 9 In the good books A Brief History of Janome 10 14 Fabric focus – Seasonal delights 16 This month I’m making 21 Reader review: your pattern gift 23 Sewing room spruce 24 The Dressmaker’s Diary with Elisalex de Castro Peake 26 SUBSCRIBE TODAY 34 Cut the cord fabric masterclass 39 Stitcher’s story – Wearable art 47 Fabric focus – Save 20% on

fabric at Prints and Plains 48 Skill building with Wendy Gardiner 50 Swatch Selector with

Kerry Green 52 Sewing workshops 55 Couture sew-along with Alison Smith MBE 60 PATTERN READING BASICS AND FITTING ESSENTIALS 65 DISCOUNTS AND GIVEAWAYS 70 Readers’ makes 72 Thrifty Stitcher with Claire-Louise Hardie 76 Support your local shop!

80 Dior wannabe – Editor Amy’s

wedding dress 83 Shop of the month 84 Pattern picks – Save 20% on Named Patterns

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Six styles of jumper

18

PROJECTS

3 issues for just £6 when you subscribe – see page 26 for further info

86 Fabric focus – Save 20% on

fabric at Girl Charlee 88 Behind the seams – fit for a princess 90 Exclusive reader offer 92 Fabric focus – Checked fabric 94 Machine review 96 Coming next issue

18 Your McCall’s pattern gift – 6-in-1 sweatshirt pack 28 No way ombré cushion 30 Cut the cord Nicole dress 36 Sew the rainbow boxy pouch 43 Top-notch funnel-neck top 58 Soap and glory cat wash cap 69 Not so ruff dog doorstops 77 Show your bias tartan skirt 98 Berry Christmas floral wreath

Find us online

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk /lovesewingmag

Editorial Editor Amy Thomas Deputy Editor Bethany Armitage Editorial Assistant Lorna Malkin Senior Sub-Editor Justine Moran Sub-Editor Kayleigh Hooton Senior Art Editor Sher Ree Tai Art Editor Simon Kay Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Amy Worrall Hair & make-up Nina Rochford Contributors Claire-Louise Hardie, Alison Smith MBE, Elisalex de Castro Peake, Wendy Gardiner, Kerry Green

77

Win

65

Exclusive design

Publishing & Advertising Head of Softcrafts Ruth Walker Advertising Sales Executive Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practical publishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul Sales & Information Support Executive Stacey Oldman Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Distribution Manager Lauren Murray Production Executive Anna Olejarz Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Managing Editor Kate Heppell Managing Art Editor Jennifer Lamb Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Financial Director Chris Dunbar Strategy & Insights Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson

98

Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd

Contact Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Fax: 0161 474 6961

58 36

Subscription Enquiries

Tel: 01858 438899 practicalpublishing@subscription.co.uk

Other Enquiries

Tel: 0844 561 1202 customerservice@practicalpublishing.co.uk Love Sewing is published by Practical Publishing International Ltd ISSN 2054-832X All material © Practical Publishing International Ltd. The style and mark of Love Sewing is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of Practical Publishing International Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity.

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CONTRIBUTORS

Practical Publishing International Ltd is a member of the PPA

Katy Cameron

Fiona Hesford

Claire Garside

Kristen Gula

Make an adorable gift for the little ones in your life with Katy’s wash cap on page 58. it features an cheeky cat face that can make bath times fun! Read Katy’s blog, find helpful tutorials and try her downloadable patterns at www.the-littlest-thistle.com

Claire is the founder of Simple Sew patterns and designer of our Nicole dress on page 30. See the full pattern range, take a peek at what the blogger team has been making and find helpful tutorials and tips at www.simplesewpatterns.com

Stock images provided by Shutterstock, Inc

Fiona is the creative mind behind Sewgirl, a range of patterns and kits for adults and children. Why not make her funnel neckline top on page 43 as a gift... or a treat for yourself? Visit Fiona’s shop at www.sewgirl.co.uk

Avid floral embroidery artist Kristen is the author of 200 Embroidered Flowers, a gorgeous new book teaching you stitches and sharing projects to put your skills into practice!

We find out more about Kristen and her book on page 9.

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The patterns, people, fabric and finds getting us sewing this month

Go with the flow

GET THRIFTY

It’s that time of year when The Refashioners return with a brand-new challenge to push our skills and inspire us to get sewing! Now in its eighth year, the challenge from the team of bloggers is to start with an inspirational look and to try and recreate it using reclaimed textiles. This could be an unloved garment from your wardrobe or a charity shop find. It’s then up to you to use your creative skills to transform it! You can follow the trail of sewing bloggers in this year’s #inspiredby challenge during September and October it’s over to you to share your creations!

Visit: www.makery.co.uk to discover who’s taking part, find out more and see the prizes on offer!

Christmas critters Deceptively simple, the Eloise dress from By Hand London is a classic shift dress with a few twists thrown in for fun! It features bust darts, subtle shaping through the waist and hips, optional waist tie belt but it’s the sleeves and hem where you can really get creative! There is the option to try frilled bell sleeves or add a circular gathered hem frill, or why not mix and match to really make it your own?

Sizes: 6-20 Price: £9.50 PDF download at www.byhandlondon.com

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We can’t resist cuddly toys at Christmas, especially when they’re small enough to hang on the tree! The Simplicity 8035 pattern collection includes six festive friends, with a larger star, yeti and gingerbread man the kids can play with, and six sweet smaller characters you can use to decorate your home. Time to order some felt!

Shop: Pick up yours for £7.25 at www.simplicitynewlook.com

California

DREAMING Based in sunny Sacramento, California, Friday Pattern Company is fast making its mark over the pond too! You can now find a wide range of the patterns for sale at Fabric Godmother. There’s plenty to offer beginner and intermediate sewists, from knit jumpsuits and understated dresses to a chic raglan blouse and the stunning Duster coat, guaranteed to turn heads with its dramatic shawl collar.

Shop: Take a peek at the Friday Pattern Company range, available from £15 each at www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

Stitchers gonna

STITCH The cross stitch and embroidery we’re loving this month

Bethany Deputy Editor

JOIN THE GANG!

I love a good kit, and the new embroidery and cross stitch bundles from trendy yarn specialists Wool and the Gang are hard to resist! Kits are all available for £20 each from www. woolandthegang.com

KIMONO

MINI MOTIVATION

A little encouragement can go a long way, and the folk at Make & Mend are determined to spread positive vibes through their Mini Motivator embroidery hoop kits.

Great for beginners and beyond! Find the kits at www.makemend.co

Inspired by Japanese flowers, fans and cranes, the new Kimono collection from Makower UK will let your imagination take flight. It features rich reds, purples, greens and gold, with black, white and gold accent colours in co-ordinating cotton. The palette is perfect for autumn skirts, shift dresses and creative cushions, and the Makower UK website offers free bag and quilt patterns to download, providing the perfect sewing inspiration for the range.

Shop: Discover more and find your nearest stockist at www.makoweruk.com

PATCH POINTS

Ellbie Co. offers clever patch kits, with designs printed onto fabric already so you just stitch within the lines, cut the motif out and sew or iron it onto your favourite garment. Pick up your snazzy patch kit for £8.65 from www.notonthehigh street.com

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IN BLOOM Dress up your everyday look with this classic yet stylish pattern from Gertrude Made

by Cathi Bessel Browne.

Simplicity 8570 is a wrap dress with a difference, wrapping at the back with rear neckline options and ties in front. Choose a contrast fabric for the ties and optional patch pockets or keep it simple with solids for a more minimalist feel. Perfect for medium-weight fabric, it can be a fun summer staple or a winter warmer with a longsleeve top worn underneath and your favourite ankle boots.

Sizes: 6-24 Price: £9.50 from www.simplicitynewlook.com

BUTTON UP

Add a splash of colour to a coat or shirt project with these colourful fabric-covered buttons from Urban Stax. They feature the brand’s iconic African prints, with each one completely unique. Don’t forget to take a browse through the batik and wax-printed fabric while you’re on the site too – you won’t be disappointed!

Shop: Available from £5 per pack at www.urbanstax.com

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TEN TIMES THE CHARM! Fabric and haberdashery destination Abakhan has added a new store to its crafting portfolio, opening a tenth shop in the centre of Shrewsbury. Located on Market Street, the family-run company will be offering a wide range of dressmaking fabrics – including Liberty fabric, haberdashery, home furnishings and a specialist workshop area for classes. Abakhan offers over 20,000 products in its online store and employs 280 people, with bricks and mortar shops located across the north west in locations such as Liverpool, Manchester and north Wales.

There are also shops further afield in the Baltic states! This latest store opening takes Abakhan the furthest south it has operated after it was founded in the 1940s.

Shop: Discover more about the new site and the latest ranges at www.abakhan. co.uk

Christmas is sneaking up on us and as sewists we know you can never start too early on those handmade gifts!

If you’re looking to spruce up homeware or garments, why not try adding a little embroidered motif? The Threaders Festive Collection embroidery transfer sheets include six 8”-square designs you can iron on to your chosen fabric, as well as a handy guide to all your basic embroidery stitches. Ideal for adding some creative flair to your next project, each design is reusable too so you can stitch them again and again!

Shop: Available for £4.99 at www.crafterscompanion. co.uk

'Tis the

SEASON

BOOK OF THE MONTH

IN THE GOOD

BOOKS Our pick of this month’s new sewing and dressmaking books

200 Embroidered Flowers

By Kristen Gula, £15.99, F&W Hey Kristen! What was the inspiration behind your new book?

I’ve been an avid floral embroidery artist for years and always dreamed of making a book showcasing my love for all things floral. My embroidery work centres around the idea of creating Guarantee kisses more with less. this Christmas!

Although it was a bold challenge, I wanted to be able to come up with 200 different plant and flower patterns that could be created using a few of my favourite stitches (the book uses seven)!

Having the projects at the end of the book was an added bonus. My hope for the book is that it inspires others to start stitching.

HOME COMFORTS Talened quilter and textile artist Karen Lewis brings together 20 sewing projects, capturing the understated Japanese aesthetic philosophy of wabsabi. Pick up WabiSabi Sewing for £15.99 now at www. sewandso.com

What do you love about sewing flowers?

When I was a kid I always dreamed of being a florist. As an adult, I’m able to create things called ‘forever flowers’. Real flowers die (sometimes very quickly) while stitched flowers live forever. I like the idea of creating beauty that never dies.

What’s your favourite project?

The Wildflower Cuffs (since it looks like the florals are growing out of the cuff), and the Kiss Me Hat (where you are constantly under ‘mistletoe’). Both projects were big 'a-ha' moments for me and I couldn’t be more proud.

What advice do you have for anyone new to the world of embroidery?

Something I learned early on was that hand embroidery doesn’t have to look perfect – you can just buy a machine to get that look!

FESTIVE FUN Get into the holiday spirit with the Moda All Stars new book Merry Makers.

Packed with speedy stockings, coasters, runners and quick Christmas gifts, it’s available now for £21.99 from www. roundhousegroup. co.uk/shop

Kristen

Do you have any exciting plans?

Workshops, workshops and more workshops! I’m currently teaching at three different venues in the St. Louis area and am travelling to Toronto soon to teach workshops with Arounna Khounnoraj of Bookhou! I love teaching and this year I’ve finally branched out to doing workshops in different areas of the country (and now my first workshop out of the country)! My dream is to travel across the big ocean to teach in Europe. Maybe one day!

JEAN-IUS TIPS Mending Matters teaches you how to stitch, patch and repair your favourite denim items, helping you to give your jeans and jackets a new lease of life!

Pick up this thrifty book by Katrina Rodabaugh for £18.99 from www.abramsandchronicle.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 9

A BRIEF HISTORY OF

A brief history of Janome operates in over 200 retail outlets throughout the UK, and manufactures for its subsidiaries and distributors throughout the world. Find out more about its historic beginnings

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Historic adverts, kindly provided by Janome

T

he company we know today was actually developed over 150 years ago through the amalgamation of several machine companies. In this article we’re looking back to the 1800s to learn more about the story of New Home and how Janome came to be the leading retailer for quality sewing machines.

In Japanese, the word Janome (pronounced Ja-NO-me) means ‘eye of the snake’. The company earned the name in the 1920s when founder Yosaku Ose, a pioneer in Japanese sewing manufacturing, began to use a round metal bobbin system instead of the traditional shuttle

THE FOUNDING OF NEW HOME In 1860, William Barker and Andrew J. Clark began producing the New England Single Thread Hand Sewing Machine in Orange, Massachusetts. Over the next 20 years, the New England machine and the Home Shuttle were its two most significant products. In 1882, the company reformed under the name New Home (a combination of the labels New England and Home Shuttle), and it continued to operate under that name for the better part of a century.

The Home Shuttle is one of the most widely sought-after collectors’ models. In 1868 the 8x13cm sewing machine The New M200QDC offers more power, patent for the Home Shuttle was witnessed trade card, circa 1870-1900 more stitches and more accessories

by A J Clark of Johnson Clark who became New Home’s President, and John W Wheeler, By 1960, 93 years after Barker and Clark first collaborated, New who was to become the Treasurer and Secretary of New Home.

Home and the New Home brands were purchased by the Janome Each machine was supplied with a shuttle, three extra bobbins, Sewing Machine Company of Tokyo, Japan. a hemmer and feller, braider, screwdriver, five needles, gauge, directions (English, German, French or Spanish) and a clamp.

JANOME BEGINS In Japanese, the word Janome (pronounced Ja-NO-me) means In 1927 the New Home Company merged with The Free Sewing ‘eye of the snake’. The company earned the name in the 1920s Machine Company and in 1953 merged again with the National when founder Yosaku Ose, a pioneer in Japanese sewing Sewing Machine Company. Its motto was ‘light running like a manufacturing, began to use a round metal bobbin system greyhound’, which was represented by the use of the breed of dog instead of the traditional long shuttle. The Japanese thought the on their advertisements and logo.

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The fantastic new Memory Craft 6700P is the perfect modern sewing machine

new round bobbin looked like a snake’s eye, and from the innovative design, a name for the company was born.

DEDICATED TO THE FUTURE OF SEWING The time spent behind your sewing machine is some of your most precious, so you deserve a machine that lets you get the most out of it. Choosing a Janome machine means you're investing in decades of expertise and a dedication to innovation. Janome has expanded into over 100 countries around the world.

As well as the headquarters in Hachioji, Japan there are large manufacturing plants in Taiwan and Thailand with sewing divisions in the United States, Canada, Mexico, Europe, Australia and New Zealand as well as agents in Africa, Central and South America and throughout the Pacific Rim of Asia.

The company’s manufacturing prowess has also made it a world-leader in the production of high-precision robots.

In 1979, Janome technology introduced the world’s first programmable, computer sewing machine – the MEMORY 7. Today, Janome’s Memory Craft computer models consistently stand out in the industry for their ease of use and precise stitch results.

Take a look at the Horizon Quilt Maker Memory Craft 15000 and the newest embroidery software products for an example of this.

Janome continues to invest in innovation, combining the latest technology and feedback from the sewing community to create market-leading machinery. The latest models now have up to 280mm of arm space, high-resolution LCD touch

12 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

screens and it is possible to send designs or monitor stitching using an iPad or PC. The Janome name is as recognisable as ever and, as well as offering a multitude of high-quality sewing machines and accessories, the company runs regular Masterclass events helping you perfect your dressmaking skills, try exciting textile art techniques and join expert quilting sessions. You'll also find the team at exhibitions up and down the country.

In 2018 Janome was awarded Brand of the Year by The British Craft Awards, demonstrating how popular the company is with both retailers and customers.

FIND OUT MORE Visit www.janome.co.uk to learn more about the history of Janome, view the current masterclass schedule and see the latest range of sewing machines, overlockers and embellishers

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 13

Stay ahead of the trend by incorporating these luxurious options into your next make.

The newly launched autumn/winter collection from STOFF & STIL is here. Cue fabric with timelessly stylish and dynamic prints. Head to www.stoffstil.co.uk to browse the full range

Shop the new collection from www.stoffstil.co.uk

FABRIC

1

2

3

Seasonal delights from

STOFF & STIL

4

5

6

7

8

Fabric shopping 1 Dark grey woven viscose with big flowers, £9.95 per metre 2 Bottle green satin with small flowers, £8.89 per metre 3 Blue shiny stretch velour with big flowers, £11.50 per metre 4 Navy stretch jersey with big paisley print, £11.50 per metre 5 Red stretch jersey with abstract flowers, £11.50 per metre 6 Purple viscose stretch jersey with flowers, £15.50 per metre 7 Blue woven jacquard with Japanese flowers, £13.50 per metre 8 Bottle green woven jacquard with flowers, £11.50 per metre All available at www.stoffstil.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 15

This month |'m making This month Sarah reviews the versatile 6197 Shirt from New Look. To see more of Sarah’s fabulous makes, visit www.wanderstitch.com Sarah used the New Look 6197 shirt pattern

I

f you’ve seen my blog you’ll know that I love to make my husband shirts, and although it’s great to find a tried-and-true pattern that you know will fit well, sometimes it’s nice to mix things up a bit with a new style. Cue New Look 6197.

Purple Lady McElroy Ex London Designer Print 100% cotton lawn, £17.99 per metre from www.minervacrafts.com

I wanted to make a shirt with an open collar – my husband has a couple of these in his wardrobe so I knew the style suited him. But I’d never made one, having only ever made shirts with a traditional collar. I was hoping this style would be a little bit easier as there’s no collar stand to deal with, but that wasn’t actually the case!

THE MINERVA CRAFTS BLOGGER NETWORK

The finished collar doesn’t actually look too bad though, however I have, for the first time ever, starched this bad boy to get it to sit right and stay right. I think just a bit of practice is all that’s needed to get the construction down; it was just unfamiliar to me.

The Minerva Crafts Blogger Network is a collection of amazing sewing and craft bloggers from across the world. Every month each blogger creates a unique kit from the thousands of gorgeous fabrics and notions available at Minerva Crafts. They wow us with their makes every month by blogging a project made with their kit on the network. There are new projects going live daily to inspire and educate sewists of all levels and abilities.

Each blogger's unique kits are available to buy at www.minervacrafts.com

I chose a lovely cotton lawn – I use this for all the shirts I make for my husband and you just can’t go wrong with it. It’s beautiful to work with and comes in so many designs. As usual, I used 1/2” bias tape to finish the sleeves and hem; I had to buy white because it’s not a colour I usually use and I didn’t have any kicking around, I even had to buy white thread as I didn’t have any of that either! But hey, it’s nice to step out of our colour comfort zone once in a while right?

16 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Sarah says...

I chose a beautiful cotton lawn – I use this for all the shirts I make for my husband

The one thing that confused me a little with the pattern is that they tell you to under-stitch the shirt facing, but then when the collar is turned out for wearing, you see this stitching. I think maybe next time I’ll stop the stitching at the top buttonhole so that it remains on the inside of the shirt and there’s no stitching on the outward facing bit that forms the lower part of the collar.

The shirt turned out just how I wanted in my head, but I think there are some fitting issues that could be improved on the next version – for a start, those sleeves are huge and definitely need to be slimmed down and shortened.

Overall, I’m pretty happy with the shirt for a first attempt! I will definitely use this pattern again but with slimmed/shortened sleeves and perhaps a slightly slimmer body on the next one too as I feel this looks a little oversized. But either way it’s nice to make a shirt that’s slightly different, and I guess it avoids too much repetition in his wardrobe!

Everyone deserves a Introducing the new Singer Fashion Mate machines The Singer 3333, 3337 and 3342 Fashion Mate include: ✽ Up to 32 Built-In Stitches ✽ 1-Step & 4-Step Buttonholes ✽ Built-in needle threader ✽ Top drop-in bobbin ✽ STAYBRIGHT™ LED Light ✽ Adjustable Stitch Length ✽ Heavy Duty Metal Frame ✽ Free arm ✽ On-board storage ✽ A range of free accessories

PRICE FROM

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Machine pictured is the SINGER® FASHION MATE™ 3337.

The world’s favourite sewing machines

Tradition

Join us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter @singersewinguk

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www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 17

Your

GIFT

Don't

SWEAT it!

There's nothing nicer than a snuggly jumper! Choose between the different lengths, sleeve styles and hem finishes.

Every McCall's pattern comes with a helpful step-by-step guide designed to push your sewing skills further

VIEW A

This bold red jumper will definitely make you stand out from the crowd. Don't miss our Girl Charlee fabric discount to make your own version!

We used

Find this red ponte roma plus a wide range of other colours priced ÂŁ6.99 per metre at www.girlcharlee.co.uk

18 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Top tip!

Claire-Louise Hardie shares her foolproof guide to jersey neckbands on page 72

VIEW D

We love patterns that let you create the perfect look! Try the high-low hem of view D in a fun cable-effect knit!

We used

Cable knit jersey in Rich Teal (other colours available), ÂŁ14.99 per metre www. higgsandhiggs.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 19

MASTERCLASS

VIEW B

GET SET FOR XMAS

Make your sweatshirt dazzling with glitter star transfers.

We used:

50mm gold glitter stars, £3.85 (8 per pack) www.ebay.co.uk/ usr/glittergraphics-4u

Use vinyl transfers to make your me-mades come alive with fun shapes or slogans –perfect for a fun Christmas jumper!

HEAT TRANSFER VINYL Heat transfer vinyl, or HTV for short, is a specialty vinyl that can be used on fabric to create custom designs.

It comes in roll or sheet form with an adhesive backing so it can be cut and placed for heat application. The hottest setting on an iron is enough to fix the glue so it's perfect for customising at home. Varieties include bright colours, metallics, neon and glitter.

Here are our top tips for working with this unique fabric: 1 Press your garment or fabric first.

It's easiest if you're adding your design to the unsewn cut-out pattern piece as you'll have greater control over the positioning and your fabric will lie nice and flat.

2 Most transfers come with a thin paper covering on the underside of the design. There may also be a thin covering on top of the design. Don't get these mixed up!

3 Peel off the under layer and position your motif. Cover with a pressing cloth or spare piece of fabric. Press following the manufacturing instructions. Then peel off the top layer if required.

4 You can buy full sheets of transfer paper in bright colours which are great for drawing onto the underside paper and cutting out. Remember to flip any letters so they read correctly when pressed into place.

5 Why not try one of the fun crafty phrases from our free sewing slogan tote bags at www.lovesewingmag.co.uk?

6 To look after your customised garment, wash at 30˚ and iron inside out.

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Subscribe today to get a

McCALL PATTERN CO. DESIGN IN YOUR SIZE WITH EVERY ISSUE! See page 26 for details

Reader Review

McCall's 6992 Emily, the creative blogger behind www.selfassemblyrequired.co.uk, shares her version of our McCall's pattern gift

I

f you’re looking for a great versatile sweater pattern to help you through the chilly weather, look no further! McCall’s 6992 is the one for you.

This easy-to-sew basic raglan sleeve sweater comes with a bunch of variations to help you personalise it to exactly how you want it to be. There’s a choice of hem – either banded or a dipped high-low – options for overlays over the front bodice and sleeve cap and versions with added trim and beads.

Options for everyone!

I chose to make view C that uses a contrast patch top-stitched over the upper sleeve and finished with a hem band. I like the idea of an almost military style reinforced patch over the shoulder.

I picked out two contrasting fabrics to make my sweater – a black and white houndstooth and a lovely mustard ponte knit, both from www.minervacrafts.com. I decided to use the houndstooth for the main body and sleeves and the mustard yellow for a funky pop of colour at the neckband, cuff, hem and shoulder patch. This meant changing the cutting layout a little but was easy enough to work out what was best positioned where on my fabric.

This pattern is lovely to sew and came together really easily. It has a dart in the sleeve at the shoulder (which may or may not be necessary), which was then hidden under the sleeve overlay.

The method McCall's suggests to sew the jumper together is one I’ve not used before when sewing up a raglan – it recommends sewing the side seams of the body first and then setting in the sleeve whereas I would normally sew the front and back seams where the sleeve meets the body first. It made for an interesting change (although to be perfectly honest you could use any method and it’ll go together just fine).

All in all, it turned out exactly how I imagined it would! Now I’ve just got to knock up a few more of these and I’ll be all set for the upcoming cold weather!

In issue 59 Jen Legg reviews Butterick 6129

Say hello to Emily on Instagram selfassemblyrequired www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 21

SEWING ROOM

Always organised

This glamorous Simplicity vintage desk organiser set features a handy notebook, 10 cards and envelopes, four cute memo pads in two sizes, sticky page flag markers and last but not least goldplated paper clips! £19.99, www simplicity newlook.com

Take note

WONDERFUL WORKTOPS

A few chic touches can make your desk a dreamy space to plan projects

You can never have too many notepads, especially when there are so many great sewing ideas to jot down! So why not upgrade your stationery collection with one in your favourite designs? This A4, spiral-bound notepad has lined pages and a beautiful cover featuring the Large Paintbox Flowers print. Even better, there are matching items available if you’ve fallen in love with this floral design. £13, www.cathkidston.com

In tray

There always seems to be lots of bits and pieces floating around on a desk, just asking to get lost. Whether you’re storing scissors, sewing machine feet, sticky tape or your trusty unpicker, this chic leather-look tray is a charming way to keep them safe. Why not recreate this design at home as a quick weekend project? Simply cut a square of pleather and use snaps to pinch the corners into place! You could even make a matching set of three in different sizes. £2, uk.flyingtiger.com

Tidy up!

Put the kettle on

This beautiful printed bone china mug features all the tools for embroidering fantastic designs! Make sure you always have stitching fuel to hand by filling it with tea, coffee, hot chocolate or gin... the list is endless!

Store your PDF patterns in style by filing them away in pretty magazine boxes like this multicoloured terrazzo inspired version from Primark. You can even keep your patterns in categories with a box for tops, another for skirts and so on. Storage solutions can be so smart! £2, www.primark.com

£10, www.lauraleedesigns.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 23

The Dressmaker's With Elisalex

S

ay what you like about social media, but I think it’s pretty awesome.

Through social media I have made genuine friends who share in my passions. It’s thanks to blogs and Instagram that I even have a job. As long as you can find a way to drown out all the negative noise (just stop looking at stuff that makes you feel inadequate), social media has the power to connect, inspire and teach, and has been the vehicle for millions of lonely sewists to become part of a global tribe. Because, let’s face it, sewing is a solitary hobby.

This is why I have an extraspecial soft spot for sewing community challenges. I think it speaks volumes about our human instinct to participate, collaborate and contribute to something bigger than just ourselves, in a way that binds us to the people with whom we feel a kinship.

With so many sewing-related community challenges on throughout the year, and more cropping up all the time, I like to dip into the ones that resonate with me (all in a subconscious effort to establish my tribe within the wider sewing community no doubt!), my favourite of all being The Refashioners.

Dreamed up by Portia Lawrie in 2011, The Refashioners is simple in ethos yet incredibly powerful in its message and delivery. Calling

24 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

DIARY Elisalex is inspiring us to refashion and reinvent unloved clothing in a more modern way

on sewists to make a garment or outfit to a theme using at least 80% reclaimed fabric does us the favour of both stretching our creativity and giving us pause to reflect on how we consume; we can consider our impact on the current precarious environmental and social situation, especially as it relates to the fashion industry and our sewing practice.

When it comes to refashioning there are two main approaches: reworking and harvesting. A reworker will look at his/her thrifted garment and totally reimagine it within the parameters of its existing construction and fabric. Tweaks and tucks here and there, turn it on its side and all of a sudden a collar is a shoulder and a top becomes a bottom. In my mind, reworkers are the true right-brained artists of refashioning. Harvesters, on the other hand, will see beyond the seams and mostly consider yield.

How much fabric can I get out of this garment? What can I achieve if I take the fabric from this dress and the fabric from that shirt and combine them to make something entirely new? Harvesters are the more mathematical, practical and left-brained refashioners.

I fall into the latter category.

When I’m shopping in charity shops I’m feeling fabric and eyeing up the colours and prints in a very similar, but more restricted, way than I would in a fabric store. One of the things that I love to experiment with is print clashing and colour blocking! As a harvester, I find

Gucci FashionStock.com/ Shutterstock.com

Coco Fennell

Zadie dress by Tilly and the Buttons For whatever reason, I hardly ever see people using stretch fabric to refashion, but it’s important not to disregard them seeing as knit fabric is so densely represented in fast fashion these days, and therefore eminently available second hand. Zadie is the perfect pattern for refashioning knits! Again, make sure you gather up knits of a similar consistency and stretch percentage for maximum Frankenfrocking success.

Top tip!

Karri dress, £19.99 www.minervacrafts.com

Myosotis dress, £15.50 www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk

There is a goldmine of drapey viscose to be found in charity shops, secondhand girls' summer perfect for floatier, school uniform to get in 90s styles on that trend! Secondly,

combining fabric from several garments and print clashing to be the most efficient and creative way of refashioning.

Luckily for me, the ‘Frankenfrock’ look is bang on trend, so there’s no shortage of inspiration to get you excited about refashioning right now! At the moment, my favourite designers and retailers for Frankenfrock refashioning inspiration are Gucci, Shrimps, Coco Fennell and Zara.

The looks are playful, expressive and unapologetically feminine.

Recreating these looks from reclaimed cloth is a two-fold operation. Firstly, gathering supplies; when you’re out thrifting, try to keep one project in mind at a time and combining fabric of a similar weight and drape is key. Let your hands guide you as you rummage, collecting fabric that will marry well when hacked up and Frankenfrocked together.

Aesthetically, which colours and prints will and will not ‘go’ together is totally subjective, so you’ll need to go with your gut on that one. I for one like clashing large and small scale florals, florals clashed with geometrics, and I’m more than a bit obsessed with the multicolour gingham look right now – look out for

If this article has inspired even a handful of you reading to get out there and start having some fun with refashioning, then I’ve done my job. There is such a huge wealth of unwanted, super-discounted secondhand fabric out there in the form of shirts, dresses, curtains and bedding and it is our responsibility as people who have the skills to make something from nothing to breathe new life into the rejected, reduce waste and hopefully inspire others to start doing the same. So let's get experimenting shall we?

you need to carefully consider your choice of sewing patterns.

Remember, your fabric yield from thrifted garments will be fairly minimal and awkwardly shaped – you might get a couple of sleeves and a collar out of one shirt, a bodice back out of another top, a bodice front and the scant beginnings of a skirt out of a dress... Having a pattern whose construction is made up of smaller panels will help enormously.

PATTERNS I’M LOVING FOR REFASHIONING REVELATIONS Myosotis dress by Deer&Doe This is a great place to start. It works well in a variety of fabrics so if you’re new to sewing and refashioning you need not dive in at the drapey end with this one. Gather up vintage cotton in the form of pillowcases, sheets, duvet covers and men’s shirts to make a modern-day prairie dress of dreams.

Karri dress by Megan Nielsen This is another good one for a first attempt at refashioning. With its flattering fit-and-flare shape and multipanel construction, this dress was made for scrapbusting and would look great made from thrifted cotton, curtains, old wetsuits or dodgy eveningwear.

This Zara dress is a perfect example of modern print mixing

ABOUT ELISALEX Elisalex is the head of design and co-founder of By Hand London, an independent pattern company. It produces gorgeously designed, highquality patterns that are available as PDF downloads through the site www.byhandlondon.com

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A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

1 Take four 4½x8” pieces (two sets of pairs) of Fabric A and B, two pieces (one set of pairs) of Fabric C and two pieces of Fabric D. Split the pairs into two piles so that you have one of each colour pairing and one white piece on each.

2 Making sure that you have your piles all lined up with all the colour changes in the same direction, cut one pile on the diagonal (bias) from bottom left to top right and the other bottom right to top left. (See Pic A.) 3 Lay out the pieces in sewing order. (See Pic B.) 4 You will be sewing together pairs of triangles in unmatched colours, starting with white to deep purple, deep purple to light purple, continuing along each row until you finish with peach and white pieces.

5 When sewing these pieces together, note that they do not align in the same way as HSTs. The wide bases need to match up with the narrow points. Place the pieces

together so there's an offset at the corners and that the sewing line will start with both pieces. (See Pic C.) 6 Once you have all the unmatched pairs sewn together press all the seams open and carefully trim them to 7x4” so that the corners align. (See Pic D. After trimming they should line up and give a pleasing continuous change in colour.

(See Pic E.) 7 Sew the unmatched pairs together so they now match the next pairing. Press all the seams open. (See Pic F.) 8 Sew the two rows together. Then press open the centre seam.

9 Make a quilting sandwich with one of the muslin or scrap fabric pieces, wadding and the cushion top. Quilt in your desired pattern.

Sew a securing line around the edge of the top at ¼” from the edge.

Trim the cushion top to 13½x21½”. (See Pic G.) Set this to one side.

For backing assembly use ½” seams (when complete it will look like Pic H).

HOW TO MAKE:

Take the three 4½x2½” pieces of Fabric A, B, and C and sew them together in a repeating stripe pattern with the seam along the longer side. Press all these seams closed in one direction.

Sew this stripe block to the 15x13½” Fabric F piece and trim any excess from the stripe block. The backing will be 18½x15”. Press this seam closed and towards the stripe block.

Press and sew a doublefolded ½” hem on the stripe side of the back panel. The cushion is ready for construction.

Use ½”. Press and sew a double-folded ½” hem

on the side measuring 13½” of the remaining pieces of Fabric F (8½x13½” pieces).

Layer the cushion parts together, starting with the trimmed cushion top on the bottom, facing the right way, then the outer part of the backing, with the WS of the fabric facing you, and the under part of the envelope on top with WS facing you.

Sew around the edge using a ½” seam.

Trim the corners to reduce the bulk and turn the RS out.

Now just add the cushion pad to finish!

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 29

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

1 Take four 4½x8” pieces (two sets of pairs) of Fabric A and B, two pieces (one set of pairs) of Fabric C and two pieces of Fabric D. Split the pairs into two piles so that you have one of each colour pairing and one white piece on each.

2 Making sure that you have your piles all lined up with all the colour changes in the same direction, cut one pile on the diagonal (bias) from bottom left to top right and the other bottom right to top left. (See Pic A.) 3 Lay out the pieces in sewing order. (See Pic B.) 4 You will be sewing together pairs of triangles in unmatched colours, starting with white to deep purple, deep purple to light purple, continuing along each row until you finish with peach and white pieces.

5 When sewing these pieces together, note that they do not align in the same way as HSTs. The wide bases need to match up with the narrow points. Place the pieces

together so there's an offset at the corners and that the sewing line will start with both pieces. (See Pic C.) 6 Once you have all the unmatched pairs sewn together press all the seams open and carefully trim them to 7x4” so that the corners align. (See Pic D. After trimming they should line up and give a pleasing continuous change in colour.

(See Pic E.) 7 Sew the unmatched pairs together so they now match the next pairing. Press all the seams open. (See Pic F.) 8 Sew the two rows together. Then press open the centre seam.

9 Make a quilting sandwich with one of the muslin or scrap fabric pieces, wadding and the cushion top. Quilt in your desired pattern.

Sew a securing line around the edge of the top at ¼” from the edge.

Trim the cushion top to 13½x21½”. (See Pic G.) Set this to one side.

For backing assembly use ½” seams (when complete it will look like Pic H).

HOW TO MAKE:

Take the three 4½x2½” pieces of Fabric A, B, and C and sew them together in a repeating stripe pattern with the seam along the longer side. Press all these seams closed in one direction.

Sew this stripe block to the 15x13½” Fabric F piece and trim any excess from the stripe block. The backing will be 18½x15”. Press this seam closed and towards the stripe block.

Press and sew a doublefolded ½” hem on the stripe side of the back panel. The cushion is ready for construction.

Use ½”. Press and sew a double-folded ½” hem

on the side measuring 13½” of the remaining pieces of Fabric F (8½x13½” pieces).

Layer the cushion parts together, starting with the trimmed cushion top on the bottom, facing the right way, then the outer part of the backing, with the WS of the fabric facing you, and the under part of the envelope on top with WS facing you.

Sew around the edge using a ½” seam.

Trim the corners to reduce the bulk and turn the RS out.

Now just add the cushion pad to finish!

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 29

We love

STYLE

Cut the

CORD The Nicole Dress is a style staple that can help you boost your skills! Learn to add a combined facing and lining and follow our in-depth guide to sewing corduroy Project CLAIRE GARSIDE Simple Sew

Shopping list Floral Filigree Blue Liberty Rossmore cord, ÂŁ18 per metre www.sewbox.co.uk

30 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

A

B

D

E

C

F

LAYPLAN:

45"-wide fabric

60"-wide fabric

60"-wide lining

SIZING: 10

12

14

16

18

10

10

10

FINISHED BUST

32”

34”

36”

38”

40”

42”

44”

46”

FINISHED WAIST

30½”

32½”

34½”

36½”

38½”

40½”

42½”

44½”

FINISHED HIPS

35”

37”

39”

41”

43”

45”

47”

49”

LENGTH (NAPE TO HEM)

37½”

37½”

37¾”

37¾”

38”

38”

38¼”

38¼”

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

HOW TO MAKE:

• 2.4m 45”-wide or 1.5m 60”wide fabric such as denim, linen, suiting or corduroy • 2.4m 45”-wide or 1.5m 60”-wide lining • 50cm 75cm-wide fusible or sew-in interfacing • 22” concealed zipper • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

1 Close darts and press dart bulk downwards. If using corduroy, finger-press the dart downwards then hover steam above and gently press again to avoid crushing the nap. (See Pic A.) 2 With RST join front and back dress at the shoulder seams. Press seams open. If using corduroy, gently run the tip of your iron down the centre of the seam and press further with your fingers.

3 Fuse interfacing to the WS of each facing piece or, if using corduroy, use sew-in interfacing, attaching within

NOTES: Finish the raw edges of your fabric with a zigzag stitch or on an overlocker.

Use a seam allowance of 1.5cm unless otherwise instructed

the seam allowance. Finish the lower raw edge of each facing piece.

4 Lay each lining piece RS up and place the corresponding facings WS down on top. Pin in place at the lower edge and sew in place 1cm up from the facing lower edge, attaching the two layers. (See Pic B.) 5 Turn the lining pieces over and, trimming just through the lining layer, remove the upper area 1cm above the stitching line of the facing.

Now your lining will only hang below the facing pieces and the raw edge is neatly hidden behind the facings.

6 With RST join front and back facings at the shoulders, press seams open.

7 Pin the assembled facing RST with the dress at the neckline and armholes. Sew together. (See Pic C.) 8 Trim the seam allowances to 0.5cm and clip into the curves, stopping short of the stitching line. (See Pic D.) 9 Turn the garment through to the RS by reaching up through the front dress piece and pulling the left back through the left shoulder cavity and repeating for the right hand side. (See Pic E.) Press around neckline and armholes to enable the facing to lie flat. If working with corduroy, lay a fluffy bath towel on your ironing board and place the dress RS down, press the curves gently. The towel should protect the nap on the RS of your garment as much as possible.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 31

Arrange each side seam so the dress and lining are RST matching the underarm seam. Stitch in a single motion and press open. You may find it helpful to clip the gentle curve at the hip area. Press the seams open and turn the garment RS out with the lining tucked inside.

Install a concealed zipper on the RS of the dress, keeping the lining out of the way. Match the neckline seam at the top of the zip.

Use a concealed zipper foot to get as close as possible to the teeth. (See Pic F.) Arrange the dress outer RS together and continue stitching below the zipper to the hem. Press seam open.

With the zipper open, flip the lining over so it is positioned RST with the outer and matching the raw centre back edges.

With a zipper foot, sew alongside the zipper tape, close to the teeth through all the layers as far as you can. You don't need to go to the very bottom of the tape.

Clip the corners at the top of the zipper to reduce bulk and turn through to the RS. Press flat. Use the towel method mentioned above if working with corduroy.

Arrange the lower portion of the lining RST at the centre back and sew together stopping just short of the zipper end. Press the seam open.

Ensuring you've finished the lower raw edge of the outer and lining dress hems, turn up a 3cm dress hem and a 5cm lining hem and pin.

Top-stitch or blind hemstitch the outer hem and press in place, using the towel technique for corduroy.

Machine-stitch the lining hem. To secure the two layers together and prevent them shifting, sew a swing tack at each side seam following the masterclass (right) to finish.

32 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Top tip

Find more helpful advice on handling and working with corduroy fabric on page 34

MASTERCLASS

SWING TACKS

Also known as French tacks, swing tacks are clever stitches to secure lining to a garment so it won’t ride up as you wear it. It’s perfect for close-fitting skirts and dresses.

They’re easy to create. Just sew a couple of stitches in place within your skirt seam allowance roughly 2” above the hem to secure the thread.

Leave a length of thread about 1” long and then make a small stitch in the corresponding spot of the lining.

To neaten and strengthen the thread, loop and knot around the length to create a strong chain between the two layers.

Swing tack

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 33

Panelled skirt from issue 48 of Love Sewing. Find a range of coloured needlecord priced ÂŁ7.99 per metre from www.remnantkings.co.uk

MASTERCLASS

CUT THE CORD We've rounded up the expert advice you'll need for sewing corduroy fabric with success

34 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Corduroy is a great staple fabric and with its texture and luxurious feel you’ll want to showcase it at its best. Follow our top tips for sewing success FIRST THINGS FIRST

WALK THE LINE

Corduroy has a tendency to shrink in the wash so make sure to pre-treat your fabric on the same settings you'd like to handle the final garment.

Hang straight while damp to help the creases fall out, or gently steam the fabric without touching it with your iron for stubborn wrinkles. Consider adding a lining if you're worried about wrinkles appearing as you wear your finished make as this will help support the fabric during wear. You may find it best to turn your garment inside out and wash on a cool setting to preserve the colours.

Sewing neat seams is quite tricky with corduroy. Because the pile is so silky, it’s quite easy for the two layers of fabric to 'creep' when placed right sides together. This means that the bottom layer is pulled along by the feed dogs, while the top has a tendency to lag behind, making your seams out of place and uneven. You can help the problem by raising the height your presser foot slightly, if your machine has this option. But the best solution, is to use a walking foot, as it is a great investment all round. A walking foot or even-feed foot creates an even feeding motion for the top layer of fabric as well as the bottom, meaning perfectly matched seams.

TAKE A NAP! Corduroy has what’s known as nap, meaning the fabric looks and feels different from different directions. This is easy to see with piece of fabric with a deep pile, like velvet or corduroy.

The fibres don’t stand straight up, but have a direction to them that you can feel as you brush your hand back and forth; you can see the change in colour and texture immediately.

The goal is to avoid accidentally assembling your project with the nap running in different directions as it will be visible to even the non sewist! Use a ‘with nap’ layout when cutting out fabric that has a direction to them (ie lay all the pieces head to toe in the same direction) to ensure the smooth feeling of the corduroy runs up or down the body.

STRAIGHT TALK Take care to keep the wales of the fabric running straight down the body for a finish that is pleasing to the eye.

The best approach is to match the grainline on your pattern pieces to one of the ribs as you lay it out and cut out the pieces on a single layer of fabric with the pattern pieces flipped to cut a mirrored copy where needed.

This may require a bit more space but will give you better control during the cutting-out stage.

YOU'RE THE TOP! You may have guessed that decorative topstitching is a little tricky with the peaks and valleys of the corduroy texture. Even with a slightly longer stitch length you may have to accept that your stitch line will disappear into the fabric, so avoid top-stitching where possible. There's also the bulk to factor in! If you can, lock your presser foot in the flat position using the little spring on the side before you lower the foot and start sewing.

Alternatively try a folded piece of cardboard at the back of the foot to fill the gap behind the seam and keep things level that way.

Why not

TRY? Rose corduroy 2.5 wales, £7.75 per metre www.stoffstil.co.uk

Lotta Liberty Rossmore corduroy (LRC03545255B), £18 per metre www.sewbox.co.uk

Floral cotton needlecord, £14.99 per metre www.minervacrafts.com

FLAWLESS FINISH Corduroy has a tendency to ravel at the edges if left unfinished and washing your finished garment can become a nightmare scenario! Since seam allowances are so bulky in corduroy it’s best to trim them to half their width and overlock the edges (you may find it easier to overlock before construction). If you don’t have an overlocker, why not see if your machine has an overcast setting? And you can always try the Hong Kong seams tutorial on page 62.

Mustard large corduroy 11, £11.65 per metre www.myfabrics.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 35

We love

BAGS

Sew the

RAINBOW This boxy pouch has endless options and is a great project to use up your favourite fabric scraps!

Project RACHEL SEED Holm Sewn

Top tip

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

HOW TO MAKE:

• FQ for main outer (cotton, linens, canvas or denim) • selection of scraps for the patchwork insert • FQ for lining • 14” closed-end zip (or longer) • co-ordinating thread • 30cm Vlieseline H630 fleece

1 Arrange your strips of fabric and sew the long edges together with a 5mm seam allowance.

2 Sew the two main outer pieces to each side of the insert (5mm seam allowance) and press all seams open. Trim the panel to 29x38cm.

3 Fuse the fusible fleece to the WS of the assembled outer bag.

4 Mark the centre points on the RS of the long edges using a pen or chalk.

5 On the WS of the top edge of both lining pieces, mark 1.5cm in from each side.

CUTTING: • • • • •

2 10x40cm main outer pieces 8 2.5x40cm strips scrap fabric 2 29x20cm lining fabric pieces 29x38cm fusible fleece 8x12cm tab fabric

FINISHED SIZE: Approximately 18cm (W) x 10cm (D) x 9cm (H)

36 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

A stylish solid outer will really show off the scraps used on the insert. If you prefer a print, choose a nondirectional design

6 With one lining piece RS up, centre the zip RS up along the top edge with the edge of the zip tape aligned with the fabric (the zip will be longer than the fabric).

7 Using a zip foot, sew the zip to the lining with a 3mm seam allowance between the marks.

8 Place the outer fabric RS down so that one short edge is centred over the zip teeth, and the raw edges are aligned with the lining underneath.

9 Sew through all layers with a 7mm seam allowance – only between the marks you made earlier.

Flip your two layers so they are WS together to sew the second side of the zip. Take your second lining piece RS up. Centre the zip along the top edge so the unsewn tape is aligned with the raw edge and the fabric is lined up across the zip.

Repeat Step 6.

Fold the outer fabric RST so you can bring the remaining short edge RS down onto the 2nd zip tape. (See Pic A.) Repeat Step 8. Swap to your regular presser foot.

Turn the outer tube RS out with the lining inside.

Open the zip, and pin along each side of the zip through the outer fabric, zip tape and corresponding lining fabric. Top-stitch, starting and stopping sewing at the 1.5cm marks at each end. (See Pic B.) Press the tab fabric in half WST so the long edges

A

B

C

SAVE 15%

on ALL items at www.holmsown.co.uk with code LS58 before 10th October

Shopping list Rachel used Chroma Handcrafted Batik by Alison Glass for the insert and lining and Nautical Essex Yarn Dyed by Robert Kaufman for the outside. Find these and more at www.holmsown.co.uk

D

E meet. Open out and fold in each long edge to the centre crease (WST), and then fold in half again. Edge-stitch along both long edges. Cut in half to create two tabs.

Fold one tab in half so the short edges meet. Position the tab on the side centre mark you made on the outer fabric RST. The tab will be facing into the bag. With the raw edges aligned baste at

3mm, taking care not to catch the lining. Repeat for the other side. (See Pic C.) Turn the bag inside out.

Pin the bottom edges of the lining together. Sew each side with a 1cm seam allowance leaving a 10cm gap in the centre. Press seam open.

Open the zip halfway.

Pin the outer layers RST at the ends. The tabs should be centred under the zip.

Sew across each end with a 1cm seam allowance, taking care when sewing over the tape to make sure you don't catch the lining.

Pin the lining fabric ends together and sew with a 1cm seam allowance, making

sure you are only sewing through the lining fabric (not the zip). (See Pic D.) Trim away any excess zip tape.

On all eight corners mark a 3.5cm square and cut out. Fold each corner so that the raw edges

meet and the end seam is centred. Pin and sew with 1cm seam allowance.

Repeat for all outer and lining corners. (See Pic E.) Turn the bag out through the gap you left in the lining.

Push the corners of the pouch out, and hand-stitch the gap closed to finish!

Amy says...

This is a great bag because it's spacious enough to be versatile while still being a breeze to make!

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 37

Sweet Garden of Mine Lecien’s New Range

By Lynette Anderson

Available Dec/Jan in conjunction with

Printed in Japan

My Journey with Nutex

“I met Gregg and Jay, the father and son team at Nutex NZ about 12 years ago when I started designing fabrics for Lecien Fabrics. Since then the Nutex team has spread its wings to include the UK where Darren heads the team. Nutex are not only a pleasure to work with but are a dynamic company who place customer service first and foremost”

Lynette For Your Stockist contact www.nutexuk.co.uk Email: warehouse@nutexuk.co.uk Tel: 0191 454 5605

STITCHER'S STORY

COSTUME DRAMA Take a trip to Mandurah in Western Australia and immerse yourself in the inspiring and creative world of wearable art

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 39

Wild Swans by Rochelle Peries Tertiary Student Category award presented

by WA Fibre & Textile Association

C

lothes aren’t just made to be functional, they can be used to tell a story, express a feeling or make a statement. Wearable Art Mandurah takes place in Western Australia each year, showcasing an amazing array of textile techniques and an incredible collection of materials, including everything from aluminium cans to plastic straws.

Each piece is uniquely constructed by textile artists from around the world and entered into competitions to win prizes totalling over $12,000 (AUD). The competition is inclusive of all skill levels and ages and is broken down into different categories and participants. The best garments are selected by a panel of judges for a showcase extravaganza, including music, dancing and theatre performances. The exhibition also includes workshops, where visitors can develop their own textile and design skills through the mediums of fine art, fashion, jewellery, millinery, sewing, sculpture and more. Now in its eighth year, Wearable Art Mandurah continues to go from strength to strength, with each event bigger and more vibrant than the last!

Here is a selection of some of our favourite entries that were on show at the Contemporary Art Spaces Mandurah (CASM). We hope you enjoy the stories behind each piece as much as we have:

"'Rothbart decides to ambush and kidnap Princess Odette. He casts a dark spell in which Odette is a swan during daylight and only returns to her human form when night falls and the moonlight hits the water.’ – from Swan Lake. My inspiration is from the character Odette, and the intersection of her humanity and swanform throughout the play. Using bonding and heat treatment to create a crinkled vein-like effect from discarded plastic bags, I examine the interaction between the moonlight human and the sensibility, shape and form of the daytime swan. The swan-head is worn as a ring to celebrate the movement of the ballet dancer in bringing Odette’s character to life." Rochelle Peries Materials and methods The feather-like veined texture in this design was created using heat treatment from a heat tool to shrink and crinkle the plastic to form a lace effect; polymer moulding clay was used to sculpt the head and features of the swan; texture, as the main element, was manipulated during the design process; the extravagant structure is supported by chicken wire, old garden reticulation tubes and metal wire.

40 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Look at your clothing. Where was it made?

Will it last?

Who made it?

Photography by Stephen Heath, courtesy Wearable Art Mandurah

“As a child I would always visualise the words spoken to me in their direct literal interpretation, learning later that this is an aspect of Asperger’s Syndrome. I was diagnosed with this condition when I was in my last years of primary school.

I was six when I first heard the saying ‘tall poppy syndrome’. At that time I thought it meant to cut down the tallest poppy to admire and appreciate it. I have since learnt the real meaning behind this phrase but I will always remember that beautiful image I had as a child.” - Paige Leidel

Still Standing

by Paige Leidel Tertiary category

Sky and Water III by Jacq Chorlton Wearable Art Mandurah Artist of the Year award Photography by Stephen Heath, courtesy Wearable Art Mandurah

Black corflute birds, inner tube feathers and handmade embossed aluminium fish make up this wearable art piece created by Jacq Chorlton as a homage to Sky and Water I, a woodcut print by Dutch painter M.C Escher from his ‘transformation’ print series. It reflects the metamorphosis of fish into birds who are then free to fly away and beneath the horizon the birds transform into fish swimming down into the dark depths. Created in 1938 as a powerful metaphor, it reflects the inseparability of life from the elements that it needs to survive and the symbiotic nature of Earth’s ecosystems.

Materials and methods Black corflute, printers’ plate, inner tubes and black paper were used to create birds and fish; the aluminium was cut and embossed by hand; the birds on the hat have been created from papier-mâché; the feathers have been cut from inner tubes; fish eyes are cut from DVDs; everything wired together onto a pipe cage.

Discarded materials are an inexhaustible source of inspiration: an interesting shape, a beautiful colour, an unusual texture. To draw attention to pollution and other environmental issues, this wearable art by Antoaneta Tica was made from more than 200 plastic water bottles.

Working with this material was a challenge, as it is more and more used by artists. It was transformed into icicles remembering the fragility of glass... the fragility of our life-giving water. We need to be more aware of what is happening around us and also take a firm attitude towards protecting Mother Nature.

Materials and methods Plastic from PET has been cut and then transformed with heat, then sewn onto a textile base.

Antoaneta Tica's challenging make

FIND OUT MORE Get ready for Wearable Art Mandurah 2019. Local, national and international artists are invited to create revolutionary works of art on the body. There is more than $12,000 in cash and prizes on offer and entries are open now! Early bird entries close 30th September 2018, and all entries close on 16th December 2018. Photographs of completed garments need to be submitted by 18th February 2019. For full details, visit www. wearableartmandurah.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 41

ÂŁ1 wPoattern 8. rth s 99

Seasonal sewing projects for you and your home!

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We love

STYLE

TOP

notch Classic jeans and a great top.

It's a wardrobe combination that never gets old, and the Hepburn top mixes vintage charm with snuggly style Project FIONA HESFORD Sewgirl

Shopping list Botanic navy cotton jersey, ÂŁ13 per metre www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 43

Those little

EXTRAS

Create cute faux pockets for an extra eye-catching design element: 1 Fold the pocket pieces in half RST so the long raw sides align. Sew down each short side.

2 Turn pocket to RS, push out the corners and press.

3 Pin in position as shown on the template with the folded edge extending downwards.

4 Sew 1cm from raw edge at top.

5 Fold the pocket up.

Press to create a crease at the lower edge.

6 Pin then top-stitch at the short sides to secure.

SIZING: BODY MEASUREMENTS BUST

WAIST

HIPS

inches

8

10

32

34

centimetres

81

inches

25

centimetres

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86

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centimetres

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CUTTING: 140cm-wide fabric

FOLD

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 1.3m stretch jersey fabric (140cm wide with or without nap/one way design) • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: Insert a jersey needle in your machine and use a triple stretch stitch setting or a small zigzag stitch and use a walking foot if you have one Finished length is 60cm Seam allowance 1cm unless otherwise stated

HOW TO MAKE:

SELVEDGES

44 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

1 Sew the back pieces together at CB edge with RST. Finish raw edge. Press.

2 Sew front to back at shoulder seams with RST.

Finish raw edges. Press seams towards the back.

3 Pin then sew the front to the back at the side edges below the armhole. Press.

4 Fold the neckband in half width ways with RST matching short side edges.

5 Sew together to make a ‘ring’. Finish raw edges. Press.

6 Fold the neckband ring in half, aligning the raw edges and seam position, with WST. 7 Pin the neckband to RS of the neck raw edge, aligning the CB seams. Hand-tack then sew. (See Pic A.) Finish the raw edge and press.

8 Fold the neckband in half ready for wearing.

9 Fold sleeve with RST, matching the side edges.

Stitch at side edge. Finish the raw edges and press.

Top tip!

Knitted jersey has edges that tend to curl and make it even harder to sew. To reverse the curl, use a starch spray and press the edges!

A

B

C

Amy says...

Most jersey responds well to a zigzag setting of 2.5x2.5mm.

Start there and adjust down slightly for the best match for your fabric Fold the cuff piece in half width ways RST, aligning short edges, then sew and press.

Fold the cuff piece in half, aligning the raw edges WST. Pin to sleeve at lower raw edge RST. Hand-tack, stretching slightly to match the raw edges. (See Pic B.) Sew in place and finish raw edge. Repeat for the other sleeve.

Pin sleeve head to top at the armhole, aligning

cross seams. Ensure the back section of sleeve as indicated on the template is aligned to back of top.

Hand-tack. (See Pic C.) Sew around the armhole, taking care to avoid puckers.

Remove tacking. Finish raw edges of armhole. Press.

Finish raw edge of lower hem of the top, then make a single fold 2cm hem or adjust length as required.

Why not add faux-welt pockets using our tutorial on page 44?

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 45

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46 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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Visit www.printsandplains.co.uk to save 20% by entering the code SEWING20 at the checkout. Offer valid from 13th September until 20th October 2018

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ABOUT WENDY GARDINER As well as being Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company, Wendy is a published author and sewing teacher. Find her online courses at www.craftsy.com

Plastic snaps are best for lightweight projects

SNAP FASTENERS Snap fasteners are easy solutions for fastenings on children’s clothing, casual wear or just for a fun finish.

Ideal for areas that don’t take too much strain, they are easily fastened by ‘snapping’ together.

Most snap fasteners will have four components to make one snap – a ball section, a socket section and two outer covers. Not only are snaps available in metal and plastic varieties, they are also available in different colours. The metal versions are more robust and suit clothing, coats and furnishings.

The smaller plastic varieties are ideal for lightweight clothing and craft projects.

Many snap fasteners come in a pack with a tool to help attach

48 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

SNAP to it!

Wendy Gardiner, Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company, provides her top tips for installing pretty snap fasteners and colourful eyelets them and instructions for use on the back of the pack. Alternatively you can buy snap fastener pliers to help fasten the components together easily and securely. If you wish to use snap fasteners on lots of projects, pliers are a handy tool to have.

Lightweight snaps may have two washers with prongs that are pushed through the fabric and a snap top and bottom to finish. Heavy-duty snaps make have two sockets rather than pronged washers so the fabric needs to have the holes cut out before the snaps are applied. Check the instructions on the packaging.

some sort of stabiliser, either 2-3 layers of fabric or interfacing to prevent the snaps distorting the fabric or appearing loose.

3 Work on a solid surface such as a wooden chopping board on a kitchen top or even the floor. This will help fix the snap components together properly.

4 Mark the position of the snap placement – line up the two garment pieces where the snap is to go and push a pin through both layers. Using a marking pen, mark the snap positions.

In additional to individual snap fasteners, snap tape is available on which the snaps are evenly spaced.

These are ideal for bed linen and babies' clothing. Separate the tape sections and using a zipper foot, stitch along both long edges of the tape. Stitch the corresponding tape in position on the other fabric section, matching up the position of the snaps.

TOP TIPS 1 Identify the components needed for each snap (usually a cover and ball section, and another cover and then socket section). Pair them ready to use.

2 Practise attaching a snap on scraps of your fashion fabric – remember to include layers and interfacings as applicable. Note: You will need to have

If you are installing snaps, pliers make the job easier

EYELETS There are two options when creating eyelets. You can stitch eyelets on a sewing machine and then punch the hole with a sewing awl to create soft holes for design detail or you can use metal eyelets and thread lacing through them as a fastening or as a design feature.

Metal eyelets come in packs with an attaching tool and are available in different sizes and colours – bronze, silver, black. An eyelet will usually have two components – Eyelets are perfect for a wide range of sewing and craft projects

one with a raised inner circle and the other, the washer, which is clamped down on the eyelet to crimp the edges together. You usually need a hammer and tool to help fix the pieces.

First create the hole in the fabric at the position for the eyelet, using the hole puncher tool and a hammer to cut out the fabric. Again, using the tool, place the eyelet into the holder provided, then add the fabric, right side down, with the eyelet coming through the hole. Place the washer over the eyelet with the fabric sandwiched between and using the spreader part of the tool (which has a little nub in the centre) hammer the washer in place to crimp the edges.

Thread lacing through eyelets to create a decorative fastening or simply to create a design detail.

PRESS SNAP AND EYELET PLIERS

Use snap fasteners to finish a skirt (McCall’s 7392)

This is a useful tool with different movable elements to make holes and attach snaps or eyelets easily, without the use of a hammer. Instructions are usually provided with the pliers and will involve turning the anvil sections to make holes and attach each part of the snap or eyelet.

This tool is a worthwhile investment if you’re going to be regularly applying these fasteners and often sold in larger kits with a range of eyelets and snaps included.

Finally, here are a couple of YouTube clips that might be useful: Heavy-duty snaps www.youtube.com/ watch?v=yq9-vxw1UvA Eyelets www.youtube.com/ watch?v=hPFrSigp5kU

Eyelets and lacing finish a casual jersey top perfectly (McCall’s 7634)

Top tip!

Press snap and eyelet pliers

Use a snap fastener to add a splash of colour or metallic shine as decorative detail

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 49

SWATCH SELECTOR

All that glitters Embrace the magic of metallics with a selection of sparkly fabric that would look great in your home

ABOUT

Kerry Kerry Green is co-author of 500 Quilt Blocks and is a contributor to many other books and magazines. Find sewing tips, free tutorials, patterns and more at Kerry’s blog www. verykerryberry.blogspot.co.uk

M

etallics never really go out of style; from the subtle smudges of glitter as part of a floral print to shiny gold for seasonal designs. This month’s swatch selection features three fabrics from Winterfold by British designer Ali Brookes for Dashwood Studio. This collection combines wintry animal and landscape illustrations with abstract geometric patterns, using copper metallic accents throughout. There is some great solid metallic fabric around, like Glimmer from Cloud9, which has metallic thread woven through it and is suitable for garments as well as quilts and home décor, and Midnight Spell from Henry Glass, which uses glitter as a tonal design and is perfect for quilting projects. I’ve turned to the 1930s again for quilt block inspiration. This beauty is called Silver and Gold and would work sewn by hand using templates or as an English paper piecing block. Find out more about the pattern and some original 1930s templates to download at www.vintagecraftsandmore.com/2014/01/10/silver-and-gold-quilt-pattern-vtns-fan-freebie

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Shopping list

1 Birds on Light Grey with Copper Metallic, Winterfold

by Ali Brookes for Dashwood Studio, £3.20 per FQ, www.woolwarehouse.co.uk 2 Graphite Metallic, Glimmer Solids, Cloud9 Fabrics, £4.50 per FQ, www.misformake.co.uk 3 Bird Buddies in Midnight, Glitter Critters, Michael Miller, £3.75 per FQ, www.fabrichq.co.uk 4 Elephants Garden in pink, Amy Voloshin for Clothworks, £3.50 per FQ, www.fabrichq.co.uk 5 Rabbits on Cream with Copper Metallic, Winterfold

by Ali Brookes for Dashwood Studio, £3.20 per FQ, www.woolwarehouse.co.uk 6 Chads Sparkler Metallic, Sparkler Fusion, Art Gallery Fabrics, £3.50 per FQ, www. oliveandflohandcraft.co.uk 7 Gold Metallic Sparkle, Midnight Spell by First Blush Studio for Henry Glass, £3.30 per FQ, www.plushaddict.co.uk 8 Geometric in Grey with Copper Metallic, Winterfold

by Ali Brookes for Dashwood Studio, £3.20 per FQ, www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

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www.misformake.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 51 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 39

workshops 19TH SEPTEMBER Basic pattern cutting

SKB TAILORING Forest Gate

SKB Tailoring and Training Centre provides a variety of bespoke tailoring courses using hand stitches and specialist techniques. It also runs dressmaking and pattern-cutting workshops to boost your creativity. skbtailoring@gmail.com 07399249471 Facebook: SKB Tailoring & Training Centre

This is for beginners or anyone who needs a refresher on basic pattern cutting. This course will cover basic dart manipulation on skirts, bodices and sleeves with drafting included.

The course runs one day per week for 10 weeks. Please note that days and times are subject to change.

Cost: £400

20TH SEPTEMBER Introduction to the sewing machine You will learn how to properly thread and use the sewing machine and understand different types of seams in this three-hour workshop.

Cost: £30

NIMBLE THIMBLES Swindon

This wonderful shop provides you with everything you need for sewing, quilting, knitting and crochet including fabric, patterns, sewing machines, yarn and haberdashery, plus a superb sewing school.

01793 950750 www.nimblethimbles.co.uk

21ST SEPTEMBER Zips and buttonholes Learn how to successfully sew a zip and a concealed zip plus machined buttonholes all in one evening (6pm-9pm).

Cost: £27

29TH SEPTEMBER Free-motion embroidered and quilted cushion (Anni Downs design) Learn free-motion embroidery and make

52 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

this gorgeous cushion. All fabric is supplied for this one-day workshop (10.30am-4pm).

Cost: £65

12TH OCTOBER Quilted Christmas stockings Make your own gorgeous quilted and lined Christmas stocking in an evening (6pm-9pm). It’s a perfect class for the beginner and more experienced sewist alike. All materials are provided.

Cost: £35

27TH OCTOBER Handbag class During this one-day workshop (10am5pm) you will make this beautiful shaped top and lined handbag in fabric of your choice. The bag has internal pockets, bag feet and a tab closure.

Cost: £57

Book yourself in to one of this month’s top workshops and expand your sewing horizons

25TH SEPTEMBER Bespoke tailoring techniques part 1 You will learn specialist hand stitches needed to create a Savile Row-standard garment. This course will be taught by a Savile Row-trained lecturer and will include a visit to Savile Row. The course is one day per week for six weeks.

Cost: £350

23RD SEPTEMBER Bespoke tailoring trouser making part 2 This top-up course is designed to teach you how to make different types of bespoke pockets, waistbands and hems. The course runs one day per week for six weeks.

Cost: £350

SEW IN THE CITY Sheffield

Sew in the City is an independent fabric retailer in Sheffield stocking high-quality contemporary fabric and running workshops and courses for all skill levels using highly skilled, specialised tutors.

0114 275 9502 www.sewinthecity.co.uk

28TH SEPTEMBER ‘Kinder’ cardigan creation with Wendy Ward Create a versatile cardigan and master sewing with knitted fabric.

Includes a signed copy of Beginner’s Guide to Sewing with Knitted Fabrics.

Some sewing experience required.

(10am-4pm) Cost: £70

29TH & 30TH SEPTEMBER Corsetry design weekend Create a corset pattern and toile to your fit and design with Lou Watson, professional lingerie designer. Book

alongside the Corsetry Creation weekend in January for a 20% discount. (10am-4pm) Cost: £120

19TH OCTOBER English paper piecing with Jenny of Papper, Sax, Sten Fresh from lecturing at the V&A, Jenny will guide you through the techniques for EPP using only her trademark curves!

(6:30pm-9:30pm) Cost: £30

26TH OCTOBER New York beauty block with Jenny of Papper, Sax, Sten Combine foundation piecing with Jenny’s no-pin curved piecing techniques to create this fabulous block. Use for the basis of a quilt, bag or cushion. (10am-4pm) Cost: £50

CRAFTY SEW & SO Leicester

Crafty Sew & So aims to inspire everyone who walks through the door to pick up a new hobby or develop their skills in an old one. It offers workshops in a wide range of crafts and is are excited to bring you new and exciting products.

0116 319 6930 www.craftysewandso.com

30TH SEPTEMBER & 7TH OCTOBER Jeans making Sew your own pair of unique handmade jeans in this two-day workshop. Use the Closet Case Patterns Ginger jeans (skinny or regular fit) or Morgan jeans (boyfriend fit) patterns. Our tutor will help you every step of the way with demonstrations and advice.

Cost: £140

12TH OCTOBER Dressmaking – cosy cardigan Sew your own cosy cardigan using our exclusive My Handmade Wardrobe Pattern in this one-day workshop.

This pattern can be sewn on a regular machine or an overlocker and includes

essential pockets! Learn to work with knit fabric for a slightly more challenging project.

Cost: £70

13TH OCTOBER Rag rugging In this half-day workshop you will learn all the rag rug basics – how to use the rag rug equipment, how to select and prepare materials and how to do the two types of rag rugging (loopy and shaggy). You will be provided with all the materials you need on the day (including a latch hook to take home) and will start a small rag-rug project during the class (traditionally a jolly rag-rug flower).

Cost: £35

21ST OCTOBER Needle-felted Christmas trio In this fun-filled full day class suitable for beginners you’ll learn the basics of needle felting and make a trio of Christmas characters. You will try your hand at different felting techniques, including making 3D and flat shapes, blending colours and adding details.

Cost: £60

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 53

Petite

store Fr stylish cupboard www.storage4crafts.co.uk away Call us free on 0800 048 8606 w ksta Đž in Dunster 2.0 Sewing Edition secĐžds! le s availab oreaway ere Other St s 2.0 shown h e ay Knighth

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54 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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Mainland UK delivery ÂŁ50 extra Optional home assembly service ÂŁ150 extra Order online and use Offer Coupon - QN218DUN Offer expires end of month following magazine publication (eg. Jan Issue expires end of Feb) Please note all furniture items are supplied self assembly unless home assembly service is selected (home assembly available to the majority of mainland UK - Call to check availability)

ASK THE EXPERTS

Velvet dress

Sew-along Part 2

Alison Smith MBE continues her latest sew-along, sharing her expert tips for sewing with velvet

W

ith party season just around the corner, I'm talking you through sewing Vogue 1520 – an elegant, classy full-length dress made from stretch velvet.

Last issue we began with making a toile from the lining with large seam allowances and a long stitch length and now we can move onto assembling the dress. Once you establish the fit on this dress, the construction itself is straightforward but we will be adding some little extra touches to make sure it only stretches where we want it to stretch and looks flawless when worn.

|n this issue Alison helps

you handle velvet www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 55

Silk organza is a couture replacement for stay tape

Learn with Alison!

Try the Couture Winter Coat workshop at The School of Sewing. Visit www. schoolofsewing.co.uk to find out more Vogue 1520 is a gorgeous designer pattern from Badgley Mischka. The stunning side gathers, optional beaded cuffs and train at the hem make the dress irresistibly glamorous!

Pick up your copy for £16 from www.sewdirect.com Once you're happy with the fit, it's time to stitch the lining seams on the correct size stitch and where appropriate trim back to a regular 1.5cm seam allowance.

Press the seam allowances open.

Leave the excess seam allowance at the armhole and neck. Increase your stitch length to 3.5 and machine-sew around the armhole and neck edge just outside the stitching line. Now place the lining to one side, whilst we make the dress.

CUTTING THE VELVET

Which way should the nap stroke? Up or down the body? Velvet should brush up for depth of colour. It may feel odd if you stroke your dress when wearing it, but the velvet will actually wear better too if the pile is cut brushing up towards the neck. If your velvet brushes down, it will look shiny and much lighter in colour.

This dress cuts into quite a lot of fabric and is cut with a single-layer layout.

Make sure the fabric is right side (pile side) uppermost and the pattern pieces print side uppermost. A very large table or the floor is required!

Insert the pattern markings with tailor's tacks. Use one colour thread for the dots and another colour for the squares.

CONSTRUCTION

As velvet has a nap, stitch the seams as far as possible from hem to neck in the direction of the nap and use a walking foot on your machine. The chances are the velvet will move. Instead of tack stitching the seams, as this can also move, insert fine pins both horizontally and vertically – this way the velvet has no room to shift.

Make the gathers by inserting two rows of long sewing machine stitches between the dots as indicated in the instructions.

The pattern uses a stay tape, tacked over the pulled-up gather stitches to secure them I have replaced this with a 2.5cmwide straight grain strip of silk organza.

Why? It's not as bulky in the seam but just as strong and being see through you can adjust the gathers more easily. Cut the silk organza with pinking shears.

The instructions for the length of this stay strip are on the pattern instructions.

Pull up the gathers to fit and even them out, making sure there are no gathers in the seam allowances at the armhole and or below the square on the pattern piece, as this is a meeting point for seams.

Once the gathers have been secured, attach the side front piece to make the split in the front panel. Velvet is difficult to press without marking the pile, so I will press the seam after the next stage.

THE SPLIT

Use multiple colours of thread for the different tacks

56 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

The split on this dress needs to hang with clean straight edges. Cut two straight-grain strips of silk organza 2.5cm wide. Tack one edge of the silk organza along the split, move the organza in from the raw edge by about 5mm, so the tacking stitches are approximately 1cm from the raw edge.

Fold the edge over WS to WS and with exceedingly light stitches, herringbone this raw edge down. Pick up just one thread from the dress side of the stitch otherwise it will show on the right side.

Now we need to press – but we will save that until next time!

ABOUT ALISON SMITH Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert in classic couture and a published author. Alison has her own shop and line of patterns, and you can also learn with Alison at one of her exclusive workshops. Find out more on her site www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

Atelier Saint Clare

Tambour Beading workshops Manchester Craft Centre

www.ateliersaintclare.com

Rutland Sewing Unit 1a Rutland Village, Ashwell Road, Oakham, Rutland LE15 7QN Tel 01572 756468 www.rutlandsewing.co.uk

Please visit our NEW online shop!

Ample free parking Very close to picturesque Rutland Water Coffee shop on site Classes and workshops Also training for sewing machines, Pfaff embroidery machines, Premier Plus Software & all makes of overlockers Open Tuesday to Saturday 9am – 5pm Sunday 10am – 4pm Closed Mondays

Request your free fabric catalogue today!

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 57

We love KIDS

SOAP

and glory Keep your little one’s hair dry during a splash in the bath!

Project KATY CAMERON www.the-littlest-thistle.com

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 0.5x1m towelling for main wrap • towelling scrap for inner ears • black cotton scraps for eyes & mouth • 0.5m 10mm-wide elastic • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: Seam allowance for all projects is ¼” unless otherwise stated

CUTTING: From the towelling: • 2 outer pieces from the template piece 4 outer ears from the template piece From the towelling scrap: • 2 inner ears from the template piece From the cotton scraps: • 2 outer eyes from the template piece • 1 nose from the template piece

HOW TO MAKE: 1 Take one inner ear piece and place it in the centre of the bottom of one of the outer ear pieces. (See Pic A.) 2 Zigzag-stitch the inner ear in place around the edge – note that you should increase your stitch length to around 3.5mm to accommodate the thicker material, and if you have a walking foot that may make things easier 3 Take a second outer ear piece and place RST with an assembled front ear piece Straight-stitch together along the long, angled sides then turn RS out through the open bottom edge. (See Pic B.)

58 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

A

C

B

D

Top tip

E

F

4 Repeat these steps the remaining ear pieces.

5 Take one outer wrap piece and place the eyes and nose as desired. Top-stitch in place 1/8” from the edge of each piece, and if you’re feeling brave enough, hand-stitch a mouth below the nose. (See Pic C.) 6 Take the ears and pin in place, right sides together at the top of the cut-out darts.

(See Pic D.)

7 Fold the outer wrap piece in half with right sides together so that the edges of the cut-out darts meet, then stitch in place. Note it will be a little bulkier when you get to the ears so sew slowly and steadily to get your machine up onto the ear.

8 Take the remaining wrap piece and repeat the earlier steps to stitch up the darts for the lining.

9 Place the lining and outer wrap pieces RST, matching the dart seams.

Stitch all the way around, leaving a 3-4” gap at the back for turning. (See Pic E.) Turn the wrap RS out, then pin and top-stitch all the way around, ½” in from the edge to create a channel for the elastic.

Cut the elastic to 16” long and use a bodkin or

Why not upcycle a flannel or an unwanted towel to make the inner ear pieces? a safety pin to thread the elastic through the channel, holding it firmly to the end so that it doesn’t disappear inside. Overlap the ends of the elastic by 1” then stitch together. (See Pic F.) Hand-stitch the turning gap closed with a whip stitch to finish.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 59

Shows you how to...

Claire-Louise Hardie

READ A PATTERN CIRCLE DOTS These marks indicate construction details, such as zipper position, pleating, or the end-of-stitching line, as set out in the instructions. Some pattern companies will use triangles or squares in place of circle dots.

PATTERN CUTTING LINE Each line relates to different size for the garment. There can be up to 10 sizes on a pattern sheet so you can either follow a single cutting line throughout or blend carefully between sizes to achieve a better fit.

GRAINLINE The arrow on the pattern piece must be ‘on grain’ with the threads of the fabric so that it can hang, move and stretch correctly. The grainline must always be parallel to the selvedge (the self-finished edges) of the fabric.

PLACE ON FOLD LINE This edge of the pattern piece is to be placed on the fold of your fabric, making it easy to cut out a mirror image at the same time.

BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT The placement for a button is marked with an X. The placement for a buttonhole is marked with an edged line.

TUCKS/PLEATS Transfer any tuck lines marked on the pattern pieces to the RS (right side) of the garment. Follow directional arrows where given.

ABBREVIATIONS SA (SEAM ALLOWANCE) DARTS Parts of the fabric to be folded for shaping, usually located at the bust, waist and neck.

NOTCHES Make a tiny snip or chalk mark at each notch location, within the seam allowance. These marks are used to match pieces together before sewing.

LAYOUT DIAGRAMS These explain how to lay each piece onto the fabric to ensure that all of the pieces will fit on the fabric quantity suggested on the envelope. Remember to follow along with the correct view and size. Don’t forget to take care with directional prints; you wouldn’t want a floral-print top with all the flowers upside down.

Every project you sew has a set seam allowance. This is the distance between where you sew and the raw edge of the fabric – essentially an invisible line around each pattern piece. These lines are occasionally included on vintage patterns. You must sew at the seam allowance in order for the pieces to line up correctly. Most commonly this is 1.5cm, but check your instructions in case smaller allowances are being used.

Sewing machines have marks for the seam allowance to the right side of the presser foot.

RS (RIGHT SIDE AKA FABRIC FRONT) Instructions for placing right sides of fabric together will be written as RST.

LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINE This indicates exactly where to shorten or lengthen the pattern piece or garment to make changes for improved fit.

WS (WRONG SIDE AKA FABRIC BACK) Instructions for fusing interfacing to the wrong side of fabric will be written as WST.

ACHIEVE THE PERFECT FIT Draw a third horizontal line a little above the hem between Line 1 and the centre front of the pattern.

BUST ADJUSTMENTS First, you need to work out how much additional space you require around the bust or what you’d like to remove. Here is a helpful chart to work out the amount: Small bust example

Full bust example

Full bust measurement

33�

38�

High bust measurement

32�

35�

Difference

1�

3�

Adjustment

1/2� SBA = half the difference

11/2� FBA = half the difference

Cut along Line 1 from the hem to the armhole, making sure not to cut all the way through the armhole. Leave a hinge so you can pivot the paper. The point of the dart has now swung away from its original position.

Cut through the line in the middle of the dart, again leave a little hinge at the tip of the dart so you can pivot.

The lower edge of your hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now longer. Cut the third line you drew, and spread apart until your hem is level.

Lay the tissue pattern against yourself to establish where your bust point is. Mark onto the pattern with a cross.

Fill in the spaces created with tracing paper, and stick into place.

Using a ruler and pencil, draw a vertical line from the marked point to the hem. Make sure the line is parallel to the grainline on the pattern.

SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIG E) Draw in the lines as per an FBA adjustment.

This is essentially the same process in reverse.

From this line, draw a second line up towards the armhole, hitting the lower third of the armhole. Together, these lines are called Line 1.

Swing the darted side of the pattern across the other side, by the desired SBA amount.

The lower edge of the hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now shorter. Cut the third line you drew, and overlap until your hem is level.

Draw a second line horizontally through the middle of the bust dart, meeting Line 1 at the bust point.

1/3

1

B

2

apex

1

Some patterns will come with an adjustment line for narrow or broad back drawn on. If your pattern doesn’t, you can easily do this yourself.

NARROW BACK (FIGS A-C) B

A

C

Line up the cut edges of Line 1 so they’ve been spread apart by the amount of your FBA. The edges should be parallel. You’ll notice that your dart has now spread apart too and become bigger.

FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIGS A-D)

A

BACK ADJUSTMENTS

C

2

D

E

1

2

Draw a vertical line down from the shoulder, 3cm from the armhole to just below the bottom of the armhole. Draw a second line at a right angle from this point.

Cut along the two lines, and slide the armhole side overlapping the paper. Stick in place. A small Ÿ� adjustment is often enough. Play around with this amount as you develop your fitting skills.

Use a ruler and pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. Because we have only adjusted the upper back, the fit should remain the same around the waist. (See the orange lines on Fig B.) You’ll now need to make the front shoulder width a little shorter. Line up the notches on the shoulder ensuring sure the neckline is lined up. The front width will be a little longer than the newly adjusted back shoulder. Draw a new, narrower line from the back around the front, trimming a little of the front armhole away. Don’t forget to make sure your new curved line is smooth at the shoulder.

lap

3

3

BROAD BACK ADJUSTMENT (FIGS D AND E)

3

D

ADJUSTING FOR HEIGHT

E

A

SHORTEN A PATTERN (FIG A) Working at 90Ëš to the grain, make corresponding tucks across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Make corresponding tucks across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, shorten above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve.

LENGTHEN A PATTERN (FIG B) Working at 90Ëš to the grain, cut across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Cut across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, cut above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve. Spread the pattern pieces as required and fill the spaces with scrap paper.

A

BELOW THE HIP ADJUSTMENTS (FIG A) To decrease the width, make a graduated tuck from the waist to the hem, tapering to nothing at the waist, indicated by the dotted line.

To increase the width, cut the pattern piece through the waist to the hem, place over scrap paper and spread to the required size.

Start in the same way as a narrow back adjustment drawing the two lines and cutting along them.

B

Instead of overlapping the cut pattern pieces, spread them. As before there are no hard and fast rules, but with a broad back a Ÿ-½� adjustment is about right. Fill in the space with some tracing paper and stick together.

Use a ruler and a pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. (See the orange lines on Fig D.) This time you’ll need to make the front shoulder a little longer. As with the narrow adjustment, line up the shoulder seams, ensuring the neckline is aligned.

Draw a curved line from the back shoulder down towards the front armhole, adding a sliver to the front shoulder and armhole. Check that you’ve drawn a smooth line over the shoulder.

ESSENTIAL STITCH SETTINGS Zigzag finish

(WS)

Pinking shears finish

Topstitched finish

(WS)

(WS)

French seam

first seam allowance

Overlocker finish

the centre fold of the first seam becomes the outside edge

(WS)

Hong Kong finish fold over then stitch in the ditch

bias tape

stitch seam allowance only

first seam allowance

the centre fold of the first seam becomes the outside edge

ULTIMATE EMBROIDERY GUIDE BACKSTITCH

FEATHER STITCH

BLANKET STITCH

COUCH STITCH

CROSS STITCH

FISHBONE STITCH B

C

A

F

A

B

FRENCH KNOTS

E D

K G

I

J

H

LADDER STITCH

LONG AND SHORT STITCH

RUNNING STITCH

SATIN STITCH

STRAIGHT STITCH AKA SEED STITCH

SPLIT STITCH

A

B 1 2

3 D

C

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66 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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lovesewing58 We promise we’ll always keep your data safe and will never share it with or sell it to other companies for marketing purposes.

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ts Ga r m e n

in

SIZE6S! 6-3

3

Packed with patterns YOU’LL LOVE TO KNIT

FAB GIFTS

Paddington kit & supplement are available on UK print editions only.

Issue 93

ON SALE NOW

Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/kn93

We love

HOME

Not so

RUFF MATERIALS: • • • • • •

50cm cotton polyester wadding dried pulses buttons for eyes & nose ribbon templates provided on pattern sheet or downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: Use a seam allowance of 1.5cm unless otherwise instructed

HOW TO MAKE: 1 Attach the gusset to the head. With RST, match up and

Top tip

This cute and practical doggy doorstop makes a fabulous gift for animal lovers – why not make a pair?

pin the ears (point A) of gusset to the ears on the head, nose (point B) to nose and back of head (point C) and pin. Stitch together.

2 Stitch together both sides of the underbelly, but leave a gap of about 5cm to allow you to insert filling later.

3 Match up and pin points D and E of the underbelly to the main body. Stitch together.

4 Match up both sides of the main body and stitch together, leaving the feet open. Pin and attach the feet gussets to the feet –

ABOUT THE BOOK

Make It and Mend It (£5.24) www.sewandso.co.uk

If you only use dried pulses all the filling will fall to the bottom and the doorstop will lose its shape!

this will give you a firm base for your doorstop to stand on.

5 Turn RS out and stuff.

Start filling by inserting the polyester wadding into the ears, head and tail.

6 Continue to fill until about half full. This wadding will help the dog to retain its shape. Fill the remainder of the body and the feet with the dried pulses.

7 Using a cone, fill with rice, sand or beans. Put the narrow end of the cone into the gap and pour in the rice or other filling. Slip-stitch the opening closed.

8 Sew on two buttons for the eyes and a button for the nose. Tie a pretty ribbon bow around the dog’s neck to finish.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 69

READERS'

Suernsdnaupss! yo

AKE WINS A

£25

OUR STAR M

DLE FABRIC BUN VA FROM MINER CRAFTS

Star make

Rachel

Rachel made these lovely trousers from issue 52, she said: “The trouser pattern is great! They’re so comfy and you can never go wrong with pockets! I added two little belt loops and a faux belt to the front.

Laura

We love Laura’s slanted-pocket tote; she used a pattern that was featured in issue 53.

It looks fabulous in Orla Kiely cotton.

Well done, Laura!

Christine

We love the vibrant fabric Christine has used for her dress, she said: “I made this dress for a garden party I was invited to using the Butterick 4443 pattern free with issue 53."

Kerry

Kerry has made a beautiful version of the Butterick dress from issue 53. These two vibrant fabrics work so well together and it looks great with the belt. Great job, Kerry!

70 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Sharon

Roisin

Roisin has whipped up this McCall’s 7714 dress that was featured in issue 55, doesn’t it look pretty on her? We love the fabric choice, too.

“I thought I’d share the Zadie top I’ve recently finished. It’s a great pattern for summer and I’m sure I’ll make more.”

kes!

ma Your spooky Halloween

We asked you to show us your favourite handmade Halloween costumes – don't they look great?

Helen Bronya Ruth

Trudy Lorraine

Alison

Lorna SEND US YOUR SNAPS!

Cat Jane

Send your makes to letters@lovesewingmag.co.uk for a chance to win a ÂŁ25 fabric bundle from Minerva Crafts!

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 71

ASK THE EXPERTS

THRIFTY

STITCHER Claire-Louise Hardie shares her tricks to avoid stretched out, saggy neckbands

O

ne of the best ways to get a really professional finish when sewing with stretch is to neaten the neckline with a neckband.

A great neckband will elevate your garment from homespun to high quality. I also like to add knit bands to the armhole edge of sleeveless tees, and woven necklines!

BUT HOW CAN WE AVOID THE DREADED SAGGY OR OVERSTRETCHED NECKBAND?

Over the years of teaching stretch sewing to new dressmakers, I’ve used a couple of different methods, and this is my favourite. It’s almost impossible for a pattern designer to anticipate the amount of stretch in your fabric, so whilst the pattern piece provides a good starting point, don’t assume it will be a perfect fit! Since I often add neckbands to patterns that don’t have them, I often need to create my own pattern piece too.

So, as a general rule, I like a finished band that’s 1.5cm deep. So that means the width of the strip will be 5cm. In terms of length, I’ve recently discovered this method, which does away with the need to do fractions and percentages!

STEP 1 THE SEAM LINE

With the shoulder seam (not the raw edge of the paper) taped together, mark the stitching line on the pattern.

I usually take a 1cm seam allowance with neckbands so have marked that into place in red (see image on page 73).

You can use a French curve ruler if it helps.

72 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Top tip!

If working with a busy print, try a contrasting neckband, cuffs and hem like this Cotton Traders jumper

perfect fit

GUIDE

STEP 2 THE WIDTH

Mark a second parallel line 1.5cm above the stitching line (or whatever depth your neckband will be) and measure the upper line (see below). You'll need this measurement for Step 3.

STEP 3 THE FOLD

Double the length of that line and add seam allowance. In my case I’m going to use 1cm so I’ll add 2cm to the total length.

You might be wondering how this works.

Why is this smaller than the length of the neckband? Basically you need the neckband to be the length of the inner line so it lies flat against the body, the edge that is stitched to the neckline will then be stretched to fit – this creates a little tension and will give you a lovely flat band that doesn’t stand away from the body, and looks just like a shop-bought neckband does.

These tips are perfect for T-shirts too! Find this classic Men's tee pattern at www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

STEP 4 PREPARING THE NECKBAND

Fold the neckband in half lengthways, wrong sides together. Press the fold then pin along the length to hold it together.

Back

Front

Fold in half along the length and mark the centre or halfway point. Then mark the two quarter points. Mark the centre front and centre back of the T-shirt, and then the quarter points which may NOT be the shoulders, as the front neckline is often longer than the back.

STEP 5 ATTACHING THE BAND

This is done with one shoulder seam unstitched, which is how it’s done in ready to wear. Pin and sew the band in place. Press the band up. Construct the shoulder seam.

ABOUT CLAIRE-LOUISE Claire-Louise is an author, pattern designer, teacher and costumier.

We recommend ClaireLouise's new course www.learntosewwithapro. com/ultimate-beginners

STEP 6 FINISHING THE NECKBAND

I like to top-stitch the neckband seam allowance to the T-shirt with a twin needle. This ensures the seam allowance doesn’t poke out above the neckband edge.

Make sure to press the neckline seam allowance with lots of steam before you top-stitch, as this will keep everything flat.

I wait to trim seam allowance until after topstitching, as it can be tricky to do if seam allowance is trimmed away.

A twin needle can create a professional looking finish. If you’re not comfortable using a twin needle you can top-stitch with a zigzag.

Claire-Louise’s book, The Great British Sewing Bee: Fashion With Fabric, accompanied the third series of the show and is priced £20 from www.quadrille.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 73

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We also offer a sewing machine repair service and hold craft workshops.

Do pop in and say hello!

74 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

is an independent fabric shop on the outskirts of the beautiful spa town of Harrogate in North Yorkshire.

We specialise in linens, wools, cotton lawns and silks, we like to use local suppliers where possible and are known for our customer service.

We offer weekly sewing classes for all abilities call or check the new website.

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One stop shop for all your dressmaking needs Patterns, fashion and bridal fabrics, dressmakingand alterations service Husqvarna sewing machine sales and repairs on all models Taking part in the Shop local giveaway campaign 36a Aubrey Street, Hereford HR4 0BU Tel 01432 379137 Email: badderfabric@gmail.com

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A gathering place for friends, fabric and inspiration Fabrics . Haberdashery . Sewing classes Leanne's new sewing shop Lots of exciting plans Pop in to say 'Hi'!

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MERSEYSIDE

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NORTHAMPTONSHIRE Official Silver Sewing Machine stockist

Full range of accessories, needles, pins, scissors, name tape/pens, fabrics, elastics, ribbons, buttons etc

Stockist of Brother, Janome & Toyota FULL SERVICE NOW £40 (NORMAL PRICE £60) We have a range of haberdashery, yarns, patterns and spare parts available in store. We specialise in repair and service of machines, with free local pick-up and delivery.

185 Hoylake Road, Moreton, Wirral, Merseyside CH46 9QA Tel: 0151 677 7755

PRESTON

Sewing Workshops, popular with all ages from 9 years old upwards.

Alterations Service for Clothing and Soft Furnishings.

01280 308721 maryclarestaples@hotmail.co.uk

SCOTLAND

• Sewing classes • Sewing patterns • Large range of fabrics • Machine sales • Machine service/repairs • Haberdashery

Welcome to my lovely craft emporium!

We have lots of crafty goodies for sale however support, inspiration and the service with a smile are free!

Open 9.00am - 5.30pm Monday to Saturday

01225 482413 27 Charles Street, Bath, BA1 1HU www.sewingstudiobath.com m.pickles1@btintetrnet.com www.facebook.com/ sewingstudiobath/

68 Berry Lane, Longridge, Preston, PR3 3WH 01772 780 883 www.itsofsewcrafty.com

SOUTHAMPTON

TAMWORTH 80 Watling St, Wilnecote Tamworth, Staffs, B77 5BJ

Fabulous fabrics for patchwork, dressmaking & crafts.

2 Purlieu Court, Beaulieu Road Dibden Purlieu, Southampton Hampshire SO45 4PX Tel; 02381 783386 Monday – Friday 9-5pm Saturday 9-4pm www.newforestfabrics.co.uk

SOMERSET

Offering a warm friendly welcome, supplying quality fabrics for dressmaking and quilting.

Weekly sewing sessions Weekend workshops Elna/Janome stockist Machine servicing and repairs Bespoke commissions undertaken

thesewcialstudio.co.uk

TEWKESBURY

SOMERSET

Stockists of: • Gorgeous dressmaking fabrics & accessories • Fabulous yarns • Knit & crochet patterns • Knitpro and Brittany accessories • DMC threads • Classes for beginners Tuesday - Friday 10 - 5, Saturday 10 - 2

thesewingcorner26@gmail.com 18b Silver Street, Ilminster TA19 0DJ 01460 391803

SHEFFIELD

Sheffield’s newest independent sewing store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. We also offer classes in a variety of crafts.

1a Arundel Road Sheffield S35 2RB 0114 2455996 handmadehappyhare @yahoo.co.uk

www.handmadehappyhare.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 75

Shop Local

NEWS MATERIAL GIRL LAURA

The team at Material Girl Laura has been busy increasing its fabric ranges. It now has over 30 types of Lady McElroy fabric in stock and will continue to expand the collection each month. The range of Atelier Brunette fabric also continues to grow, with over 40 in stock. As well as growing some of its branded ranges, it has been busy introducing more non-branded fabric. Visit www.materialgirllaura.co.uk

OAKSHOTT OPEN DAYS – CHRISTMAS WRAPPED UP

19 Bamel Way Gloucester Business Park, Brockworth, Gloucester GL3 4BH www.oakshottfabrics.com Saturday 8th December 10am-4pm Sunday 9th December 10am-1pm Whether for Christmas gifts, fabric to replenish your stash, or ‘because you’re worth it’ treats, Oakshott open days are a must. For two days only, its warehouse will be transformed into a pop-up shop brimming with alluring displays of its signature ‘shot’ cotton.

Curate your own schemes from a colour spectrum of shimmering pre-cuts or dive into the famous Colour Picks, fun combinations of accents with complementary or contrasting shades, all exquisitely folded and tied into tantalising bundles.

CRAFTY SEW AND SO THE DRESSMAKERS BALL 2019

Leicester Friday 22nd March from 7pm-midnight Tickets Available from Crafty Sew & So from 1st October 2018 Early bird (until 31st December 2018) £58 Full price £65 The Dressmakers Ball is back! The team at Crafty Sew & So is busy planning the next ball. Set in a beautiful Georgian building in the heart of Leicester City Centre, the event is an evening of food, fun, drinks and dancing. It’s essentially an elaborate excuse to sew ourselves something truly special, and the team wants to invite sewists from across the UK to join us for the ultimate sewing meet up. Tickets include drinks reception, two-course buffet, live band and a dressmaking competition. Take a look at www.thedressmakersball.com for photos from last year and to sign up to the mailing list to be the first to know when tickets are live!

RUTLAND SEWING

Laura wearing a True Bias Ogden Cami in Altelier Brunette Stardust Black cotton gauze

FRANK NUTT

The Old Stables, 17-23 Poplar Road, Kings Heath, Birmingham B14 7AA Frank Nutt Sewing Machines has a large range of Horn cabinets, chairs and sewing furniture, for the all-important measuring up for your perfect sewing space! Its display has just increased with the Electric Lifter – for a stress-free transition from cabinet to sewing table at the touch of a button!

76 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Keep up to date with news from your local sewing shop

Unit 1a Rutland Village, Ashwell Road, Oakham LE15 7QN Rutland Sewing offers a wide range of classes and workshops. Visit www.rutlandsewing.co.uk or call 01572 756468 October classes: 5th – The Bag, £45 19th – Balenciaga Coat, £45 28th – 30th Christmas projects, from £35

We love

STYLE

Show your

BIAS This chic A-line skirt is given an eye-catching twist with its chevron front, cut on the bias, and cute button tabs Project CLAIRE GARSIDE Simple Sew

Shopping list Red Dunlop denim, £10.90 per metre www.sherwoodsfabrics.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 77

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 1.5m medium-weight woven fabric such as cotton or denim, or 2-2.5m of striped or checked fabric* • 50cm medium-weight fusible interfacing • 9” concealed zipper • co-ordinating thread • 2 2cm buttons • templates supplied in envelope

NOTES: Seam allowance of 1.5cm is included unless otherwise stated Finish all raw edges with a zigzag stitch or on an overlocker *Fabric quantities rely on the size and scale of your fabric's design "repeat".

Buying 50% more is generally the best approach to allow for the perfect placement of the print

HOW TO MAKE: 1 Sew the front seam of the skirt, matching the plaids or stripes of the fabric into a neat chevron. Use lots of pins and baste by hand before committing to sewing the seam. Finish the raw edges and press open.

2 Sew darts in front and back skirt, press towards side seams.

3 With RST, attach the front skirt to the back skirt pieces at the side seams using a 1.5cm seam allowance.

Press seams open.

4 With RST sew two tab pieces together around three sides, leaving the short end open. Trim and grade the seam allowance to reduce bulk and turn out using a point turner to get a crisp finish.

Repeat for the second set of tab pieces.

Stitching

PRETTY Let the skirt hang overnight before hemming using a trouser clothes hanger or by placing it on your mannequin. You may find the front stretches out a little because of the bias cut. Level off the skirt hem if required and then sew the hem.

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SIZING: Finished measurements

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

20

WAIST

25”

27”

29”

31”

33”

35”

37”

39”

HEM CIRCUMFERENCE

61”

63”

65”

67”

69”

71”

73”

75”

LENGTH

24”

24”

24”

24”

24”

24”

24”

24”

SINGLE LAYER

Front

Front

CUTTING: Example for 115cm-wide fabric

SINGLE LAYER

FOLD

Front

Front

Back

FOLD

A

Back

B C

D

5 Apply interfacing to the waistband facing pieces.

6 Sew two back waistband facings to the front facing at the side seams, RST. Press the seams open and set aside.

7 Pin the tabs onto the ends of the front waistband, raw edges aligned and avoiding the seam allowance. Place the back waistband pieces on top matching the side seams and sew. (See Pic A.) 8 Press open the seams, pressing the tab allowance towards the back.

9 Attach the waistband to the assembled skirt and press the seam allowance upwards.

Attach the waistband facing to waistband, RST along the upper edge. Press seam open.

Keeping the waistband facing out of the way, pin the zip at centre back. The top stopper should sit just below the waist seam. Hand-tack, then sew with a zipper foot.

(See Pic C.) Repeat on the other side, aligning the seams.

Finish the centre back seam by arranging the skirt RST and continuing from Line the skirt by cutting a the base of the zipper second set of skirt pieces, to the hem. Press attached at the waist seam open. seam.

Sew a partial back Press up the lower seam to allow the zip of edge of the waistband to open facing by 1cm. Flip it over so it is RST with the outer waistband, covering the zipper.

Still with the zipper foot in place, sew a line of stitches down the sides of the tape. Clip the corners to reduce bulk. (See Pic D.) Turn through to the RS. Use a point turner to get a neat corner.

Pin the lower edge of the waistband facing in place from the RS. Hand-sew in place to secure invisibly.

Sew two buttons on top of your button tabs by hand at the placement marks.

Press up a 2cm hem allowance and stitch in place.

Press to finish!

Top tip

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 79

Made of organza layers over duchesse satin, Amy’s dress was floaty and romantic

DIOR

wannabe Love Sewing Editor Amy shares the story of her handmade wedding dress and offers advice to future bridal sewists

FIND OUT MORE There are several wedding dress-related posts on Amy’s website www.almondrock. co.uk going into greater detail if you’re keen to hear more!

And you can follow Amy’s sewing adventures on social media @almondrock_sews Why not attend Alison Smith’s three-day couture bridal sewing course, which runs several times a year? Find out details and future dates at www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

80 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

S

ome of you may know I recently married my favourite person in the world. We had unbelievably good weather, exchanged sweet and slightly soppy vows, laughed with all our friends and family then danced the night away. It was a joy to wear my handmade dress and see the mix of reactions from people who finally saw it finished as well as people who learnt during the day that I’d made it myself. Made of organza layers over duchesse satin, it was floaty, romantic and a dream to wear. I wanted to feel like I’d stepped out of a vintage Dior photoshoot and it really felt that way when I walked into the ceremony room.

I started working on my frock before Christmas, testing toiles, deciding on Simplicity 1606 as the base and draping a test dress to see how I could create the bodice effect I wanted. I practised seam finishes and stitch settings and agonised over fabric choices for each layer. The bulk of my fabric was ordered from www.bridalfabrics.co.uk, who has excellent customer service, swatch policy and amazing range of fabric. The lovely floral layer was actually shipped from a shop in Singapore if you can believe it! I used an ivory satin base, rose-print organza in between and soft organza with subtle twinkle on top.

Simplicity 1606 made an excellent base dress

pleats over the top of each other at the left side seam to create an even number of pleats across the centre back.

To secure the pleats I used tiny prick stitches at the top edge of the pleat (at the seam point), so tiny they weren’t really visible. Then prick stitches at the bottom edge of the pleat, inside the fold (with these stitches scattered around the bodice). All that was left to do on the bodice then was to create a boned muslin layer for support, and a satin bodice lining, hand-stitched into place.

Be realistic about your time, especially if you’re trying new techniques

It has been a strange rollercoaster ride but I couldn’t have been happier with the finished result

I started by mounting the rose print on top of my satin pieces (which were backed with luxury weft interfacing from Alison Smith’s bridal sewing course). I agonised over the rose placement but in reality I didn’t need to bother as it’s just fuzzy pink underneath the finished bodice.

The skirt is a three-quarter circle and each layer is constructed individually with French seams. As well as the outer three layers there’s also a lining layer facing inwards in liquid satin. All were finished with a tiny overlocked rolled hem which required constant adjustment of my settings but the finish was so neat.

I draped the left side first and trimmed down the excess into a tiny under-bust seam to create a faux wrap effect and avoid bulk. Draping the right side over the top was much harder. Keeping the pleats balanced took a lot of patience and it was hard to hide the excess fabric under the bust where a dart would easily create the curve. The organza was very difficult to position and I must have tried 15 times or more until I found success. Finally, I had to drape several

It has been a strange rollercoaster ride: I found what was labelled rose voile curtain fabric online but what I actually think is the exact poly-organza fabric from my inspiration dress. I ordered 5m too much silk organza and currently have no use for the excess. I made four toiles for fit and a wearable test. I nearly cried over the hem. I nearly cried over the zipper.

And stabbed my fingers countless times.

But I couldn’t have been happier with the finished result so it really was worth it.

Making your own wedding dress is a scary but thrilling experience and I have some tips to share before you get started. Don’t be afraid to try on dresses in a shop before committing to a style; you’ll learn a lot about what suits you. Be realistic about your time, especially if you’re trying new techniques. Invest in good-quality pins and machine needles, get your scissors sharpened and make sure your worktop is clean. Finally, when you start to get frustrated with your dress, take a break for a day or two as you don’t want to end up hating the process. Or what was the point? www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 81

We are suppliers of low cost, high quality materials from all over the world which can be used for a wide range of items such as textile fabrics, curtain linings, designer wear, arts and crafts fabric, and much more.

Tel: 02476 687776 www.online-fabrics.co.uk

Rooftop Fabrics are proud to offer an every expanding range of fabrics, including: Plush, Cottons, and other specialist items.

Tel: 01420 260036 Email: website@rooftopfabrics.com

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SPECIALIST FABRICS FOR THE OUTDOORS All you need to make water resistant clothing; water and UV resistant covers & awnings; tents; rucksacks & bags; dog coats; eece, microeece and softshell items; kites and more!

We stock a wide range of jacket zips & other haberdashery, buckles, webbing & accessories to complete your projects.

Friendly and fast mail order service. Order securely online.

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015242 63377

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Quirky & Contemporary Fabrics for the Modern Maker

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www.sewscrumptious.co.uk Temptations Craft Boutique An Aladdin's cave full of fabrics including Cotton Poplins, Linens, Wool Tweeds & Polyesters 100% Cottons for Patchwork and Quilting Knitting yarn and haberdashery Courses and workshops Agents for Brother Sewing Machines Visit our shop or buy safely online 31 Main Street, Bentham, North Yorkshire, LA2 7HQ Tel: 015242 61868 www.temptationsbentham.co.uk For shop opening times please see our website

55 High Street, Dunfermline, Fife, KY12 7DL, Scotland Tel: 01383 621894 Web: www.thesewstudio.co.uk Facebook & Instagram: @thesewstudiofife

Beautiful fabrics for your patchwork, dressmaking and homeware projects.

Studio classes in a positive social environment and focussing on the joy of sewing, knitting, crochet & more!

82 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

We stock dressmaking and quilting fabrics along with a variety of fabrics for crafts.

Everything from polycottons to luxury cottons and jerseys; felt and fur by the metre and all the haberdashery that you would expect.

We also offer a selection of sewing machines and overlockers.

Alongside the shop, we have a large and spacious workshop space to host our classes, workshops and sewcials.

01480 300092 hello@escapeandcreate.co.uk

SHOP OF THE

PATCHES AND BUTTONS Clitheroe, Lancashire

Jessamy, Poppy, Fiona (owner) & Lexie

This month, Love Sewing speaks to Fiona to find out more about her fabulous fabric and haberdashery shop Patches and Buttons Hi Fiona! How are you and what are you up to at the shop today?

Today is window display day, this is always a fun day for us in the shop as we like to get very creative. Often we pick a theme and dress the window to suit, we have two shop mascots who find themselves in some very strange configurations. Polly the Rag doll and Ribbons the Rhino, her best pal (I know, a rhino seems to be a bit of a random choice, but the shop's chosen charity is ‘Save the Rhino’, a cause very close to Poppy’s heart).

Tell us a bit about how you came to own your own shop I have often described myself as an accidental haberdasher, in fact if I ever get around to writing a blog that will be my moniker. So why the ‘accidental?’

Well back in the day I was a secondary school teacher, but I left the profession

when my children were born to become a full-time mum. However, in 2008 I was looking for a change, a new challenge with no idea what that might be. In October 2009, it turned out to be Patches and Buttons, we opened our doors to the good townsfolk of Clitheroe and all its lovely visitors and haven’t looked back.

Since then we have gone from strength to strength. The shop is now stocked to the ceiling with fabric for dressmaking, patchwork and crafts.

Which sewing machine would you recommend for a beginner, or an experienced sewist?

I learnt to sew on my grandma’s old black and gold Singer, this machine still holds a special place in my heart. I still have her and she regularly features in our window displays. But for serious sewing it will always be a Bernina, I still have my trusty 1008 special which I purchased in 1993. My machine of choice for an advanced dressmaker is the B580 with the add on embroidery package, a pure indulgence. As for the beginner, I have taught many a young lady on the 1008, 1010, 1015. The 1000 range is amazing, you just can’t break them – treat them well, get them regularly serviced and say a little prayer to the benevolent sewing fairies before you start any project and you are away.

Have you had any particularly memorable moments with customers in store?

The girls and I love nothing more than to assist a customer in selecting a suitable

dress pattern, find fabric, trims and the other paraphernalia required to complete a project and send them on their way happy. It is most gratifying to catch up with our regulars and see them wearing their own creations.

Is there anything new or exciting coming up that you’d like to tell our readers about?

We are planning lots of promotions in our anniversary month of October – fabric sales, discounted books and sewing boxes, bead giveaways – and we hope to have our new range of fabric giftwrap available for sale. You can keep up to date with announcements on our Facebook page.

Visit us!

PATCHES AND BUTTONS 25 Moor Lane, Clitheroe Lancashire BB7 1BE 01200 423089 patchesandbuttons@live.co.uk www.patchesandbuttons.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 83

PATTERN

Name in

LIGHTS Shine the spotlight on your fabulous makes with the help of this exclusive 20% discount on Named Patterns at Fabric Godmother

Reeta Midi Shirtdress Aava Tailored Blazer A fitted blazer is the ultimate layering staple and one that will come in really handy year on year. We love the feminine fit of the Aava blazer, it creates a lovely silhouette with the princess-like cut and double-breasted style. UK sizes 4-18, ÂŁ16

This stylish shirtdress has loads of pretty features including a shirt collar, turned-up sleeves and button closures at the front. Choose lightweight fabric for a floaty finish or opt for medium-weight fabric with some drape during the colder months. UK sizes 4-22, ÂŁ16

At Fabric Godmother you'll find an amazing selection of patterns and fabric.

Head to www.fabricgodmother.co.uk and enter the code LOVENAMED20 before 18th October 2018 to save 20% on Named Patterns. P&P charges still apply!

84 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Ninni Culottes Boost your workwear wardrobe with these comfy loosefitting culottes. They feature an elastic waistband and inseam pockets to give a flattering fit. UK sizes 4-22, £15

Alexandria Peg Trousers & Shorts

SAVE

20% on Named Patterns with the code LOVENAMED20

Agate Pencil Dress

These relaxed peg trousers and shorts are the perfect opportunity for you to pick a daring print. Both styles feature a comfortable elastic waist with drawstring closure and pretty pleats at the front making them a versatile garment that will take you from day to night.

UK sizes 4-22, £15

Anneli Dress & Tee If you like patterns with different garment options the Anneli dress and tee will not disappoint.

Choose a relaxed ankle-length jersey dress with optional waistband or the hip-length T-shirt with chic loose-fitting sleeves. Both styles feature a round neck and a pretty doublelayered front. UK sizes 4-22, £16

This fashion-forward pencil dress makes layering look so glamorous! It features a flattering buckle belt to give you some shape and looks fabulous made up in mediumweight fabric and paired with heeled boots – you’ve mastered autumn style. UK sizes 4-22, £16

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 85

FABRIC See more on page 18

1

2

When in

ROMA

3

SAVE

20%

Whether you’re exploring a city or simply looking for stylish and easy-to-wear fabric, Girl Charlee has something to suit every style. Head to www.girlcharlee.co.uk to SAVE 20% on your next order!

5

4

6

with code GCLOVE20 before 18th October 2018*

Fabric shopping 1 Black triangle squares on off-white Ponte de Roma knit, £9.95 per metre 2 Burgundy solid Ponte de Roma, £9.95 per metre 3 Yellow solid Ponte de Roma, £9.95 per metre 4 Blue red ikat on white Ponte de Roma knit, £9.95 per metre 5 Coral aztec glyphs on ivory Ponte de Roma, £9.95 per metre 6 Red grey black vertical multi stripe Ponte de Roma knit, £9.95 per metre All available at www.girlcharlee.co.uk 86 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

*Enter the code GCLOVE20 to receive a 20% discount on all fabric between 13th September and 18th October 2018. Offer not valid on sale items and bargain lots

Come and celebrate with us our 12th Anniversary

29th September

This is also the start of our week long SALE We are on the First Floor (stair and ramp access plus stair lift)

UPSTAIRS at Units 403-407, The Commercial Centre, Picket Piece, Andover SP11 6RU t: 01264 324420/e: info@quiltersdream.co.uk www.quiltersdream.co.uk Open Tue-Fri 9.30-17.00 Sat 9.30-16.00

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 87

BEHIND THE SEAMS

Fit for a

PRINCESS FIND OUT MORE All these images were reproduced with permission from the Fashion Museum Bath

Red and white ‘candy-striped’ cotton evening dress with full sleeves, and pale yellow, grey and peach figured silk strapless evening dress with a sweetheart neckline, both worn by Princess Margaret

Visit the exhibit before 28th April 2019 to see even more amazing garments. Tickets are priced £9 and available from www.fashionmuseum.co.uk/ royalwomen

Sequinned evening dress & coat with a diamond pattern decorated with diamantés and trimmed with black fox fur, worn by Queen Mary

Step into the wardrobe of Britain's elite with a new exhibition of exquisite garments

A

new exhibition exploring the fashion worn by successive generations of women in the Royal Family opened at the Fashion Museum Bath on 3rd February 2018 and will run until 28th April 2019.

Royal Women is a ‘family tree’ exhibition looking at the clothes worn by Queen Alexandra, Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother and Princess Margaret.

The exhibition examines their sartorial lives, looking at each woman’s unique style, the role they played within the monarchy and how that was reflected in their choice of dress.

Cream wool with pink ribbon and lace trimmings, possibly part of Princess Alexandra’s wedding trousseau

Her Majesty Queen Alexandra 1st December 1844 – 20th November 1925 Queen Alexandra was a fashion icon, whose look was quite different from that of her mother-in-law Queen Victoria. She set a trend for chokers and high necklines and was well known for her elegant, tailored daywear.

Her Majesty Queen Mary 26th May 1867 – 24th March 1953 An imposing, statuesque figure, Mary was the embodiment of royalty. Her role was to be a steadying influence, reassuring the British public during difficult times, including the First World War, and her dress style reflected this. Mary’s style stayed constant through dramatic changes in fashion during the first half of the 20th century. Always impeccably dressed, Mary wore heavily beaded gowns for evening wear and for day she wore tailored suits and large toque hats.

Her Royal Highness Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon 21st August 1930 – 9th February 2002 Princess Margaret was glamorous and beautiful and was often photographed wherever she went. Unlike the reigning monarch, Margaret had more freedom to explore fashion, something she took great pleasure in.

Many of her earlier outfits were designed by Hartnell, and she became a great patron of Christian Dior after she was introduced to his New Look collection in 1947.

A highlight of the collection is a dress made by Madame Doeuillet of very fine, heavily embroidered silk chiffon. This dress was most likely unworn, perhaps having been discarded for mourning clothes on Edward VII’s death.

Each woman’s unique role within the monarchy is reflected in their choice of dress

Lilac watered silk chiffon with velvet, lace and pearl trimmings, worn by Queen Alexandra

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 89

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Top tip!

To match plaids, checks or stripes buy 50% more fabric than your pattern suggests to account for the repeating design

FABRIC

1

2

3

Keep in

CHECK 4

5

6

7

8

Kick up the leaves and don some fabulous checked fabric this season, here’s our top fabric picks from Croft Mill

Fabric shopping 1 Houndstooth checked polyester suiting fabric, £7.50 per metre 2 Winceyette Kiss the Boys cotton, £4 per metre 3 Winceyette Clarets cotton, £4 per metre 4 Think Again poly viscose boucle, £12 per metre 5 Set Piece 4m Ode to Sienna wool, £68.40 per unit 6 Mouse’s Back Check wool, £25 per metre 7 Beige Counting Sheep wool, £29 per metre 8 Rusty Counting Sheep wool, £29 per metre All fabric is available at www.croftmill.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 93

MACHINE

REVIEW

This month, we take a look at the amazing range of sewing machines from Husqvarna Viking.

Find out more at www.husqvarna viking.com

BEST FOR SEWISTS ON THE GO

H|CLASS™ 100Q If you’re new to sewing and attending classes or sewing groups the H|CLASS™ 100Q is the perfect machine to take with you. The compact and lightweight design makes it easily transportable while managing to squeeze in some amazing features; the machine is fully computerised and boasts 20 built-in stitches including two one-step buttonholes, quilting and decorative stitches. The extra high-pressure foot allows you to feed through thick or multi-layered fabric with ease. The machine will ensure the greatest accuracy with little effort needed; optimal stitch length and width is automatically detected once you select your stitch and the useful FIX function tells the machine to stop sewing and neatly ties off seams or stitches.

Lorna

R

UNDE

BEST FOR EMBROIDERY

£250

DESIGNER TOPAZ 50 If you’re looking for a machine that can make your creative ideas a reality the Designer Topaz 50 will certainly not disappoint. There is a multitude of great features including a large colour touch screen where you can take your pick from over 250 stitches and 150 embroidery designs that can be edited and even combined with other designs!

All your preferences can be saved to the machine’s memory drive and there’s a whole host of embroidery designs available to download.

There’s almost 10” of space to the right of the needle so there’s plenty of wiggle room should you be working on larger projects. Another really impressive feature of this model is the exclusive sewing advisor; simply enter the fabric you’re using, the weight and sewing technique, and the machine will automatically programme the settings and recommend the best presser foot and needle to use!

UNDE

Bethany

R

£3,000

BEST FOR GADGET LOVERS

EPIC 980Q This is one machine that certainly lives up to its name. The Epic 980Q is jam-packed with lots of amazing features and yet has managed to retain a simple and easy-to-navigate design. You can learn as you sew by consulting the impressive JoyOS Advisor, which is an in-built interactive resource packed full of informative tutorials, techniques, quick help features and a handy user guide. Never sewn a collar or zip? The machine will tell you how. The large touch screen can also be used to decipher the best stitch options and tension for your chosen fabric and you'll love the automatic needle threader!

There are over 550 built-in stitches, from the classic stitches to those built for embellishing and quilting, as well as a whopping 11 buttonhole styles. This machine is a market-leader when it comes to space, you can enjoy a sewing platform of 121/2” in width and 51/2” in height, meaning no project is off limits!

Amy

R UNDE

£5,000 94 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

1% OFF NEXT ORDER WITH CODE LOVE1

FABRIC PATTERNS HABERDASHERY WORKSHOPS

FABRICATESHOP.CO.UK 1A rOBERTTOWN LANE lIVERSEDGE WF1 LT

flipflop fabric shop

FABRIC NOTIONS SCRAP PACKS

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Next month in

T H E U K ’ S N O .1 S E W I N G M A G A Z I N E

TWO FAB PATTERNS

worth over ÂŁ17

Butterick 6129 retro dress pack Butterick 6414

stylish illusion dress Inspiring articles, projects and guides: P Modern bomber jacket 5 mins with stitcher Sam Molloy P 1 P Sequinned jersey skirt tutorial P Inside the Fashioned from Nature exhibition

Plus much more!

Sizes

6-22

ISSUE 59 ON SALE 4TH OCT 2018 Two perfect party options

SIZES 6-22

Festive felt

ORNAMENTS

Mr & Mrs

SANTA SOFTIES

See page 26 for our subscriber offer!

Lovely leather

ROBIN BROOCH

o Peake Expert guidance from Wendy Gardiner P Clever tutorials from Elisalex de Castr se Hardie Couture masterclass with Alison Smith MBE P Top techniques from Claire-Loui *All contents subject to change.

We love

HOOPS

BERRY Christmas

Wish someone a ‘berry’ Christmas with this sweet festive wreath hoop Project KRISTEN GULA Gulush Threads

MASTERCLASS

MATERIALS & TOOLS: 5” square linen 4” embroidery hoop size 18 chenille needle black, dark green, olive green, green, pale green, light green, dark mauve, dark red, grey, light brown, brown, raspberry pink, pale pink, bright pink, yellow & ecru embroidery thread • tacky glue • templates provided on pattern sheet or downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk • • • •

NOTES: Use the key on the template sheet to decipher which stitch to use where.

labelled on the embroidery pattern piece.

3 Stitch the ivy using the olive green, light green and light brown embroidery thread, following the number of threads and stitch type instructions labelled on the embroidery pattern.

4 Stitch the winterberry

ABOUT THE BOOK

HOW TO MAKE: 1 Transfer the pattern onto the linen fabric and place the fabric in the embroidery hoop.

2 Stitch the Lenten rose using raspberry pink, pale pink, bright pink, yellow, pale green, dark green and dark mauve embroidery thread, following the number of threads and stitch type instructions

98 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Adapted from 200 Embroidered Flowers by Kristen Gula, £15.99 www.sewandso.co.uk

using the black, dark red, green, grey and brown embroidery thread, following the number of threads and stitch type instructions labelled on the embroidery pattern piece.

5 Stitch the ivy and Lenten rose using raspberry pink, pale pink, bright pink, yellow, pale green, dark green and dark mauve embroidery thread, following the number of threads and stitch type instructions labelled on the embroidery pattern piece.

6 Work French knots around the wreath with three strands of ecru.

7 Once the embroidery is complete, trim the excess fabric around the edges of the embroidery hoop.

8 Cut a felt circle the same size as the embroidery hoop; use tacky glue to attach it to the back of the embroidery to cover the stitches.

STITCH GALLERY SATIN STITCH SEED STITCH

A

1

1

2

B

C

FRENCH KNOTS

STEM STITCH

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100 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

CHRISTMAS p

Sewn U

In partnership with

10

FESTIVE PROJECTS!

QUICK MAKES FOR CHRISTMAS

GIFT GUIDES

SEWING TIPS AND INSPIRATION

2 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Welcome to our Christmas special!

W

e’re really excited to bring you this exclusive festive project book in partnership with The McCall Pattern Company.

Cue nostalgic floor fillers, an abundance of yummy

treats and an effervescent events calendar – Christmas really is the most wonderful time of the year. And what makes the festive season truly special is the opportunity we have to whip up some handmade gifts for family and friends.

Why not try our pretty Butterick pinny on page 15? The half apron design means you can show off your glitzy Christmas Day garb, and it has a spacious pocket to keep all those important utensils to 12

40

15

hand. Partaking in Secret Santa at work and need an impressive gift to make your colleagues coo? Check out our versatile bottle bag on page 31. It’ll keep your bubbly chilled and is perfect for parties and future summer picnics.

As well as quick and easy makes, you’ll find essential festive gift guides to suit any budget and our favourite seasonal fabric to complement your homemade creations.

Now relax with a mulled wine (or two!) and enjoy this exclusive book from Love Sewing.

Lorna

Editorial Assistant www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 3

48

Inside this

BOOK 6 On our wish list Our festive gift guide for any budget 8 Hung up on you A great stash-busting patchwork stocking

by McCall’s 12 Merry & bright Our favourite festive fabric 15 Polka dot pinny Butterick’s flattering half-apron 19 Jolly Christmas coasters Brighten up your festive table with these fussy-cut coasters 24 Feel the love tote bag Scandi-inspired bag perfect for Christmas shopping

4 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

28 Tip-top Christmas cushion Try your hand at this simple and vibrant tree cushion 31 Christmas corker Keep your bubbly cool with this thermal-lined bag 36 Made with love Find out about the Love Sewing team’s favourite handmade gifts 38 Christmas card Make a stunning textured Christmas card using your sewing machine 40 Present hoop This stylish patchwork hoop is perfect for a secret Santa gift

24 45 Proof is in the pudding Use cross stitch to create this unique present sack 48 Star ornament A charming tree decoration by McCall’s

15

45 8 31

40

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 5

Under £10 Ring Toss dropcloth sampler, £10 www.shopbeyondmeasure.co.uk Trimits Christmas felt kits, £3.60 each. For stockist email groves@ stockistenquiries.co.uk

Sarah Ashford Studio project pouch, from £7 www.etsy.com/uk/shop/ SarahAshfordStudio

On our

WISH LIST Our festive gift guide to suit any budget

Under £20

Gütermann Dekor metalliceffect thread 50m, £1.80 each www.sewessential.co.uk

Personalised notebook (large), £14.95 www.madebyellis.com

The Makery Sewing Kit, £14.95 www.themakery.co.uk

Crafting Brings Out My Inner Sparkle project bag, £13.95 www.notonthehighstreet.com 6 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Mug, £12 www.anthropologie.com

Gleaned by Carolyn Friedlander fat quarter bundle, £27 www.thecrafty mastermind.co.uk

Under £30

The Sewing Book by Alison Smith, £25 www.searchpress.com

Duck Egg craft bag, £22 www.johnlewis.com

Personalised Christmas sack, £22 www.handmadechristmasco.com

Hemline Advent calendar, £34.80.

For stockists, email groves@stockist enquiries.co.uk

Under £40

Scarf, £35 www.oliverbonas.com

PJ bottoms, £32.50 www.whitestuff.com Pattern bundle: The Vintage Collection, £38 www.sewoverit.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 7

Top tip

This is a brilliant design to use up all your favourite festive fabric scraps!

8 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

STOCKING

HUNG UP on you Decorate the fireplace with these pretty patchwork stockings, they’re a great stash-busting project and make lovely gifts too!

Project WENDY GARDINER McCall’s Brand Ambassador

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

CUTTING:

PREPARATION:

To make one stocking • 3 different 23x19.3cm fabric remnants • 2 different 18x15cm fabric remnants • 50cm 115cm-wide fabric for back, cuff, loop, patch & lining • 38x15cm non-fusible fleece or wadding • templates provided on pattern sheet or downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

BACK, CUFF, LOOP & PATCH LINING SELVEDGE

Using the cutting layout, prepare the following templates from your 50cm piece of fabric: patch 6, back 7, cuff 8 and loop 9, cut out three back pieces, two cuffs and one each of loop and patch.

Cut one cuff, piece 8, from the fleece/ wadding remnant.

Cut one of each of the other patches, 1-5 from the fabric remnants.

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric.

NOTES: Finished size: 28x44cm A 1.3cm seam allowance is used throughout.

7 6 7

8

8 FOLD

9

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A

B

6

3

2

4

D

C

5

3

E

F

4

5

3

HOW TO MAKE: With right sides together, stitch patch 6 to lower edge of patch 1. Then stitch heel 2 to lower edge of 6.

(See Pic A.) Stitch square patch 3 to lower edge of patch 2, then stitch patch 4 to lower edge of patch 3. (See Pic B.) Stitch toe 5 to remaining patch 3 as shown in the diagram. (See Pic C.) 10 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Stitch toe and patch 3/5 to lower edge of patch 4. (See Pic D.) For the stocking front, stitch both patch strips together. (See Pic E.) Pin one back piece to the patched front with right sides together. Stitch, leaving upper edge open. The remaining back sections will be used for lining.

Turn right side out and press.

Pin the cuff fleece to the wrong side of one cuff section, with edges even.

Baste. Fold cuff in half, short ends together and stitch side seam in cuff.

For lining, stitch remaining cuff section together in the same manner. (See Pic F.) With right sides together, pin cuff lining

Top tip

Keep pattern pieces folded with fabric so you can refer to them during construction if needed

STOCKING to cuff, matching seams.

Stitch along the lower edge. Turn right side out and press. Baste raw edges together.

Pin the cuff, lining side down to the stocking, matching seams. Baste the upper edges together.

(See Pic G.) Fold the loop strip along fold line, right sides together and stitch, leaving ends open. Turn right side out and press.

Fold the loop in half, keeping the ends even. Pin the loop to the upper edge of the stocking over the cuff, matching seams and squares. Baste. (See Pic H.) Stitch the remaining two back pieces together for lining, leaving a 10cm opening in the middle of the straight edge of stocking. (See Pic I.) Slip the patched stocking inside the lining and, with right sides together, pin the lining to the stocking, matching seams and squares. Stitch around the upper edge.

Turn right side out through the gap in the lining and slip-stitch opening closed. (See Pic J.) to finish.

Insert the lining into the stocking and press.

G

H

I

J

McCall’s 6453 offers a collection of Christmas crafts, including a tree skirt, wreath, stockings and eight tree ornaments. It is just one of many craft patterns in the McCall’s range. To see more, visit www.sewdirect.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 11

McCall’s 7704 stockings, runner & tree skirt, £9.75 www.sewdirect.com

12 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

FABRIC FOCUS

MERRY & BRIGHT

1

2

3

4

7

8

Our favourite fabric for the festive season

5

6

Gold on ivory metallic Christmas snowflake-print cotton, ÂŁ4.99 per metre www.minervacrafts.com Xmas unicorn cotton, ÂŁ14 per metre www.clothandcandy.co.uk Clothworks All Wrapped Up Bauble cream cotton, ÂŁ6.95 per metre www.croftmill.co.uk White Blend Even A Mouse Stocking Stuffers cotton, ÂŁ13.99 per metre www.higgsandhiggs.com Lots of Holly cotton, ÂŁ8 per metre www.fabricsgalore.co.uk Silent Night Trees cotton, ÂŁ12.50 per metre www.sewhot.co.uk Red two-tone taffeta, ÂŁ4.50 per metre www.remnantkings.co.uk Black and red stretch glitter velour 150cm, ÂŁ11.95 per metre www.abakhan.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 13

14 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

APRON

Polka-dot

PINNY

Butterick 5943 Misses’ pleated and ruffled aprons pattern can be made in a full and half apron style and are perfect for year-round wear.

To see the full rangeof Butterick apron patterns, visit www.sewdirect.com www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 15

Be every bit the glamorous host in this pretty half apron with contrast waistband, ties and pocket Project WENDY GARDINER McCall’s Brand Ambassador

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

HOW TO MAKE:

• 1.6m 115cm-wide* cotton, gingham or cotton blends (2m for size 34-37” waist) • 1.6m of 115cm-wide* contrast fabric (1.8m for larger size) • co-ordinating thread for topstitching • templates downloadable from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

In main fabric, fold one selvedge to the centre, right sides together and place apron piece (3) on the fold as indicated on the pattern piece. Place the pocket binding (2), on a single layer of fabric, with the grainline parallel to the selvedge With the contrast fabric right side up and a single layer, cut 1 pocket section (1) three waistband/tie pieces (4) and one each of the ruffles (5 & 6). Align the grainlines on the pattern pieces are parallel to the selvedge so that they are cut on the bias as they should be. Transfer pattern markings to the fabric.

Using long machine

NOTES: Suitable for waist size: 24-37” *If fabric is 150cm wide, reduce quantities to 1.4m of main fabric and 1.3m for contrast 3 Seam allowance is 1.5cm throughout

CUTTING:

3 2

A

B

C

D

3

F

3

E

5

3

4 4

FOLD 115cm-wide fabric 16 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

1

6

115cm-wide contrast

4

G

APRON stitches, stitch the curved edges of the pocket piece.

Trim away upper edge of pocket along the fold line.

(See Pic A.) Turn in the seam allowance on one long edge of the pocket band strip. Press.

Pin the unfolded edge of the pocket band to top of the pocket, right sides together, with the upper and side edges even. Stitch 15mm from upper edge. Press seam allowances towards pocket band. (See Pic B.) Turn the upper edge of pocket band to outside along the roll line, stitch ends. Trim. (See Pic C.) Turn pocket band to inside, turning in 15mm seam allowances on remaining edges. Pull threads to ease in fullness on curves. Press. Slipstitch lower edge of

pocket band over the seam on the inside.

(See Pic D.) Pin pocket to apron front, matching small circles and large circles.

Edge-stitch the side and lower edges (stitching close to the pocket edge).

Sew along the centre stitching line to divide the pocket. (See Pic E.) RUFFLES Stitch right and left ruffles together along notched edges and press seam allowances towards the right. Make a 15mm double-turned hem at the lower edge of the ruffle.

To make the pleats on the outside, fold on lines of small circles and bring folds to lines of large circles. Press and baste across the upper edge to hold pleats in place. (See Pic F.)

Lorna says...

If you’re not sure about pocket size, measure your cooking utensils beforehand so they have plenty of room!

Top tip

Use a sewing machine ruffler foot to pleat the ruffle quickly and evenly

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 17

Pin the ruffle to the apron, right sides together and with raw edges even, matching the seam of the ruffle to the centre of the apron. Stitch, stitch again 6mm away in the seam allowance. Press seam allowances towards the apron. (See Pic G.) WAISTBAND Fold one waistband section in half, matching ends, mark centre.

Remaining waistband piece will be used as ties.

(See Pic H.) Fold each tie, right sides together along roll line and stitch one short end and long edge, leaving 12.5cm free at the end. Trim the seam allowance.

Turn right side out. Press lightly. Open out, tie end and stitch to waistband at the ends. (See Pic I.) Pin the waistband/tie end to upper edges of apron/ ruffle, matching centres and seams. Stitch. Press seam allowance towards waistband. (See Pic J.) Turn waistband/tie end down along roll line, turning in 15mm seam allowances on raw edge. Press. Slipstitch the pressed edge over the seam and remainder of the tie ends together.

18 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

I

H

J

Top tip

Loop turners make easy work of long ties like the ones shown here!

COASTERS

Jolly Christmas

COASTERS

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Deck out your festive table with these bright and jolly coasters Project JUDITH HOLLIES

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 4 fussy-cut motifs (at least 4½� square) • fat eighth for coaster back • 9� square Insul-Bright heat-resistant wadding • 1.5m 18mm-wide bias binding • basting spray • 5� square template plastic (trace template to template plastic & cut out) • templates provided on pattern sheet or downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: Finished size: 4½� diameter

CUTTING: From main fabric, cut: • 4 fussy-cut discs from template From backing fabric, cut: • 4 discs using template From wadding, cut: • 4 discs using template From binding fabric, cut: • 4 14� lengths

HOW TO MAKE: Press the fussy-cut motifs into quarters and then eighths.

Spray-baste the front, wadding and backing

20 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

together for each coaster (the shiny side of the Insul-Bright goes towards the top).

Quilt along the crease lines.

To attach the binding, unfold one edge of the binding, place right sides together with the bottom edge of a coaster.

Leave at least 1� free before sewing along the crease line. Carefully ease the binding around the curves without stretching it or creating folds.

Stop sewing a few inches before the start.

Remove from the machine.

Place the end of the binding on top of the starting piece of binding.

Measure ½� overlap from the start of the binding and mark this onto the top binding.

Join the short ends of the binding right sides together using Ÿ� seam allowance.

Finger-press the seam open and complete sewing the binding down.

Carefully snip around the curves at Ÿ� intervals (do not cut into your stitches).

Flip the binding over to the back, keeping the

unsewn edge folded. Pin ‘in the ditch’ from the front side.

Make sure you have caught the binding at the back.

Stitch in the ditch from the front side, removing the pins as you go.

Press well to finish.

Judith says...

Fussy cutting is simply the idea of isolating a particular element in a piece of fabric and cutting it out so that it is highlighted

COASTERS MASTERCLASS

FUSSY CUTTING Sometimes fabric has an all-over pattern like a plain stripe or polka dot.

Sometimes it has a clearly identifiable repeating motif, and when this happens you have got yourself a perfect fabric for fussy cutting!

Fussy cutting is simply the idea of isolating a particular element in a piece of fabric and cutting it out so that it is highlighted. You can get special templates for this with a ‘window’, but the great news is that you can achieve the same result with any shape where you can clearly see the motif.

Stop and look at the fabric as a whole when you are cutting. How many repeats do you want? Are there enough repeats on the piece of fabric that you have?

How close do you want to ‘zoom in’ on a motif? Do you want only the face, for example, or the whole picture?

Sometimes you do have to buy a little more if the pattern repeat goes over too large an area and doesn’t give you enough motifs for your design.

Have a play and see how you can use fussy cutting in your next project! www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 21

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Shopping list For the latest Makower UK fabric collections, visit www.makoweruk.com 24 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

XMAS TOTE

Feel the love

TOTE BAG This simple Scandi-inspired tote is perfect for spreading the festive cheer when out Christmas shopping Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 0.5m Makower Lila’s Kitchen grey leaves • 0.5m Makower Lila’s Kitchen cream leaves • FQ Makower burnt orange Linea • FQ Makower grey Linea • 1m Makower grey dot pocket lining fabric • 1.5m thin wadding • 0.5m yellow Linea fabric for main lining • 2 grey Kam snap sets • bias binding • fabric glue stick • water-soluble marker

• 18cm zip • templates provided on pattern sheet or downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: 1.5cm seam allowance is used throughout

HOW TO MAKE: For the front pocket, cut a 32x25cm panel of burnt orange. Cut a slightly larger piece of wadding and pin the orange to it, right side up. Cut

three hearts from the other fabric (two of grey leaves and one of cream leaves) and appliqué these to the panel. (See Pic A.) Snip the threads away. Cut a 32x25cm piece of dot lining and place it back to back (wrong sides together with the appliqué front).

Bind along the top edge with bias binding made from one fabric (I chose the cream leaves).

A

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B

C

D

E

F

G

Cut two 5x37cm strips from cream leaves and a 31x37cm grey Linea panel.

Top tip

Why not try sewing through the layers to create a quilted effect? Practise on a piece of scrap fabric first to find your favourite quilting style

26 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

HOW TO MAKE: Lay the completed pocket onto the grey Linea panel and place a cream leaves strip down each side. Sew the strips on, trapping the raw edge of the pocket into the seam as you do so.

(See Pic B.) Cut a second piece of wadding the same size as the bag front and pin. Top-stitch/quilt

down the side seams.

(See Pic C.) Put the Kam snap set into the pocket in the centre. (See Pic D.) Trim the sides of the bag to 31x37cm and baste the layers together.

For the back, cut two pieces of lining and a 31x37cm piece of cream leaf fabric. Take a piece of lining and the piece of leaf fabric and crease down the centre.

Measure 6cm down from the top and draw a 16x1cm zipper box.

With the right sides together, sew around the zipper box and then cut down the centre. Post the outer fabric through the box and smooth it out so that it is neat and even.

Sew the zipper in.

(See Pic E.) Make a small beaded charm for the zipper pull by threading beads onto strong thread, going through the zipper pull and down through the beads a couple of times.

(See Pic F.) For the handles, cut an 82x12cm strip from grey

XMAS TOTE leaf fabric. Join if necessary.

Crease down the centre, fold the two raw outer edges towards the centre crease and iron.

Top-stitch both sides of the handle and twice down the middle to channel-quilt.

Cut the handle in half and attach one to each outer 8cm in from each edge.

For the lining, cut two 31x37cm pieces of yellow Linea and make a patch pocket in one fabric on each side.

Tuck the handles out of the way and with the right

sides together, sew a piece of lining to the front outer across the top edge only.

Repeat for the back.

Open out the pieces and with the right sides together and lining-to-lining, outer to outer, sew right around, leaving a gap in the lining.

Turn out through the gap and close it by hand or machine. Stuff the lining down into the bag and then top-stitch around the top edge to keep the lining neat.

Attach the second Kam snap set to the middle of the main bag. (See Pic G.)

MASTERCLASS

PERFECT POCKETS To make any patch pocket simply cut a rectangle of fabric and hem one edge. This will now become the top. Fold the other three edges under and press. Pin the pocket into place and top-stitch all around, back-stitching at the beginning and the end to reinforce slightly. You can add sections by making another vertical seam anywhere at all along the pocket. www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 27

Top tip

Try reversing the colours – use a single plain fabric for the tree and brightly coloured scraps for the patchwork background!

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CUSHION

Tip-top Christmas

CUSHION Add a splash of colour to your sofa with this vibrant Christmas tree cushion Project KATY JONES

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

CUTTING:

HOW TO MAKE:

• 11 5� square or larger brightly coloured cotton fabric scraps • 0.5m white cotton for background & border • 0.5m fabric for cushion back (a non-directional print or a plain works best) • 20�-square plain lining fabric • 20�-square mediumweight sew-in wadding • 20�-square cushion inner

From the brightly coloured scraps, cut: • 7 3½� squares • 4 4½� squares From the white background fabric, cut: • 2 1½x17� strips • 2 1½x19� strips • 4 4½� squares • 2 3½x2� rectangles • 2 3½� squares • 2 3½x6½� rectangles • 2 3½x5� rectangles From the fabric for the back of the cushion, cut: • 2 19 x12� panels

Place a 4½� bright square and a 4½� white square right sides together and mark a diagonal line on the reverse of the white square. Sew Ÿ� each side of the marked line. Cut on the marked line and press the half square triangle unit open (press the seam to the darker fabric).

(See pics A to D.) Repeat with the rest of the 4½� squares, pairing a white with a colour each time, for a total of eight half square triangle units.

Trim each of these units to 3½� square.

NOTES: Seam allowances are are Ÿ� unless otherwise stated

FINISHED SIZE: Approximately 18� square

Place each of the pieces in separate piles for easy access.

Refer to the photo of the finished cushion and on a clean, flat surface lay all of the pieces of the tree in order and sew them together in rows (excluding the longer border pieces, which are attached later).

Once the rows are sewn, press the seams of each row open; this helps the seams sit flat together and makes the patchwork look neater when it’s finished.

Sew the rows to each other, pinning at each seam. Press well all over. www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 29

Add the border by sewing a 1½x17� strip to opposite sides of the patchwork, press the seams out to the edges and trim off the overhang from the strips. Repeat with the 1½x19� strips to the remaining sides, then press and trim.

Make a quilt sandwich.

On a smooth, flat surface, lay the lining fabric right side down, with the wadding on top and the patchwork piece on the top of that (right side up). Smooth all over and pin well with safety pins if you have them, or regular pins. Pin from the centre outwards, with a hand’s width space between each pin.

Quilt the pinned sandwich as you prefer.

The example is quilted in a simple grid, following the lines of the patchwork.

Once quilted, trim off the excess lining fabric and wadding and square up the edges.

To make the cushion back, take the two back panels and hem each along the long side by turning the edges in by Ÿ� twice, pressing and stitching to secure.

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Place the cushion front right side up with the two back panels on top, right sides together, with the hemmed edges overlapping in the middle and the corners together.

Pin them in place and sew around the outside edge with a straight stitch.

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Trim any excess from the seams, cut across the corner edges and, for an extra secure seam, sew an additional zigzag stitch at the very edge. Turn out, poke out the corners with a point turner and stuff with a 20� cushion inner for a nice, overstuffed look.

Top tip

Use a cutting mat to lay out the pieces, that way you can lift and move it to your sewing machine with ease!

BAG

Christmas CORKER www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 31

Keep your bubbly chilled with this thermal-lined bottle bag. It’s perfect as a Christmas gift and can be used all year round!

A

Project JEMIMA SCHLEE

MATERIALS & TOOLS: FQ outer fabric FQ lining fabric 38x41cm thermal wadding 38cm 2cm-wide bias binding air-erasable pen or tailor’s chalk • templates provided on pattern sheet or downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk • • • • •

NOTES: To fit a 25.5cm-diameter bottle Use a 1.5cm seam allowance

CUTTING: From outer fabric, lining fabric and thermal wadding, cut: 11cm square of each

HOW TO MAKE: Use the template to cut out the side pieces. Place one rectangle of outer fabric and one of lining fabric right sides together, aligning the raw edges. With the lining side facing you, use the template to mark the top edge and the handle 32 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

on the fabric. Stitch along the marked handle line by machine – take this really slowly, raising and lowering the foot with the needle down through the fabric now and again to achieve smooth curves at either end.

(See Pic A.) Use sharp scissors to cut away the inside of the handle, leaving a 5mm seam allowance around the stitch line. Make small cuts into this around the handle hole, taking great care not to snip the stitches. (See Pic B.) Turn your work right sides out by pulling the outer fabric out through the handle hole.

(See Pic C.) Tweak and tease the edge of the handle hole to make it as neat and crisp as possible while aligning the raw edges of fabric. Press with a hot iron.

Use the template to mark the curved top edge of your bag again. (See Pic D.) Take one rectangle of thermal wadding and use

B

Bethany says...

Some sparkling wine has wider bottles so you may need to adjust the width, the size of the base circle and the length of bias binding accordingly

BAG

WHAT IS THERMAL WADDING? Insulated or thermal wadding is ideal for when you want to keep the contents of your project warm or cold.

It reflects either heat or cold back to its source due to its hollow fibres and reflective properties. Make sure the shiny side of the fabric is facing the hot or cold item and always check the manufacturer’s instructions as not all thermal wadding is machine washable.

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the template to mark out and cut out the handle hole. Note that this hole is slightly bigger than the one for the outer and lining – this allows space for the seam allowance and avoids puckering around it. Feed the lining layer through the handle hole cut in the wadding so that the wadding is now sandwiched between the two layers of fabric. Tweak the three layers until they lie as flat as possible and the raw edges are aligned.

The edges may be slightly uneven but do the best you can to even them out. Pin

or tack all the way round before top-stitching 5mm in from the edge. Trim the seam close to the line of top stitching. (See Pic E.) Repeat steps 1–5 to create the bag’s second side. Place the two padded sides right sides together and pin or tack along the two long side edges.

Machine-stitch 6mm seams along each edge. Choose a thread that blends well with the lining fabric to bind the raw side seam edges with a wide and very close zigzag stitch. (See Pic F.) Use the base template to cut out the lining fabric and

thermal wadding. Lay the lining fabric wrong side down on the wadding, then place these two layers down on to the wrong side of the 11cm square of outer fabric.

Pin or tack the three layers together before top stitching 5mm inside the edge of the circle. Trim the excess outer fabric to leave a neat circle of wadding sandwiched between the outer and lining fabrics. (See Pic G.) With the body of the bag still inside out, carefully pin or tack the circle to fit snugly to the www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 33

BAG I

bottom raw edge, right sides together. Sew a 6mm seam round this edge by machine – work slowly to minimise puckering and achieve as smooth a stitched seam as possible. (See Pic H.) Repeat the zigzag stitching from Step 6 to finish off the raw edges of this circular seam. (See Pic I.) Turn your work right side out. Open the bias binding out and pin or tack it right sides together along the bag’s top raw edge. Fold the leading edge of the bias binding 6mm towards you and lay the finishing end over this fold before trimming it, overlapping the initial fold by 1cm. Stitch along the top

crease of the tape through all layers. (See Pic J.) Turn the bag inside out again. Fold the binding over to encase the raw edge and sew down by hand using hem stitch. (See Pic K.) Similar to overstitch, hem stitch can be used for hand-stitching hems.

With the hem pinned or tacked, bring the needle up from within the hem’s folded edge. Push the needle through the back layer of fabric, catching a few threads before bringing it back through the fold at the top of the hem. Pull the needle and thread through and repeat, spacing stitches 3-6mm apart to finish.

Shopping list Insul-Bright 22”-wide heat-resistant wadding, from £5 per metre at www.empressmills.co.uk

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K

Adapted from Fat Quarter Christmas by Jemima Schlee, £12.99 www.thegmcgroup.com

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MADE with love Members of the Love Sewing team share some of their favourite handmade gifts

Bethany DEPUTY EDITOR

36 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

About three years ago I picked up a copy of Secret Garden Embroidery by Sophie Simpson, aka What Delilah Did, which is packed with beautiful cross stitch and embroidery projects, each inspired by nature. I was immediately drawn to this monochrome butterfly pattern with clever leaf detailing in the wings. It made the ideal Christmas present for my nana as she enjoys sitting out in her garden on a sunny day and watching the wildlife. This was a really fun project to stitch as I could keep picking it up when I had a spare minute and my nana really loved it. If you want to check out the book or Sophie’s other patterns, head along to www.whatdelilahdid. bigcartel.com

A couple of years ago, I designed a Christmas jumper hat for my girlfriend.

She’s very into Christmas and we’d joked that she would wear 10 Christmas jumpers at once if she could – so I got out my knitting chart maker and put some Christmas jumpers on a hat!

Kate MANAGING EDITOR

GIFTS

Lorna

Justine

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Last Christmas I received this lovely cat necklace for Secret Santa. It’s so pretty and complements so many outfits! After discovering who had created my gift I also found out that, as well as jewellery making, Vicky is a dab hand at contemporary papercraft gifts including digital stamps, cutting files and printables. See her fab range of products at www.dottydoocollections. etsy.com

SUB-EDITOR My talented friend Sarah made these very festive coasters.

I love their rustic look and they are perfect for adding that extra Christmassy feel to my living room.

A few years ago, my friends and I sat down and made an amazing Christmas board game! It’s so personal to us and we’ve made it a tradition to play it every year when we meet up. You can’t beat handmade fun at Christmas!

Amy

Simon ART EDITOR

EDITOR Each year I try to make at least one of my gifts; whether it’s a handmade shirt for my dad, or pyjamas for my husband.

Last year I decided to make this fun make-up bag for my sister-inlaw, complete with sparkly nail varnish and Liberty-print sleeve! This project appeared in issue 32 and you’ll find the templates online at www. lovesewingmag.co.uk

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Shopping list Card blanks are available from www.thehomemakery.co.uk 38 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

CARDS

SEASON’S greetings card Ever thought about making Christmas cards with your sewing machine? Prepare to create beautiful textured cards to impress family and friends this Christmas Project JO BOLAND

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • • • • • •

Homemakery card blank American Crafts cardstock fabric scraps glue typewriter black thread

NOTES: You don’t need anything special, just use your sewing machine in the same way on card and paper as you would on fabric, but don’t use too short a stitch as it may cause the card to rip (2mm and above is best). Sewing through cardstock and paper will dull the needle, so it’s a good idea to use an old needle for this project. You should also check that the tension on

your machine is correct for sewing on card and paper; too tight and you’ll tear your paper, too loose and it will be loopy on the back. When turning corners make sure you leave the needle in the card or paper and pivot around the needle.

HOW TO MAKE: Cut three 1� circles from your fabric scraps. Decide where you’d like them positioned on your card, draw around them with a pencil and remove them.

Sew straight lines down your card to represent the hanging strings of the

baubles. You can backstitch at each end but it’s best to pass the thread through to the wrong side and knot to secure.

Using a slow speed, sew rough circles around the baubles using the pencil circles as a guideline.

We did this three times for each bauble.

To finish, adhere the circles into position with glue to finish. It’s okay if the edges of the circles lift up a little as this creates a fun 3D effect!

Top tip

If making a large batch, this simple design will mean it is quick and easy to replicate

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Shopping list The Ombre Confetti Metallic collection by V and Co. for Moda from www.fatquartershop.com

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DECORATIONS

HOOP, skip, jump Sew this sparkly hoop using your favourite fabric and a spot of foundation paper piecing to make a unique present Project CAT ASHTON RYAN

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

CUTTING:

• white foundation fabric at least 8� square (make sure this is fairly lightweight to show the erasable marker on the reverse) • fat eighth turquoise V and Co. Confetti Metallic Ombre (Fabric A and B) • fat eighth solid white fabric (Fabric C) • 8� ribbon • air- or water-erasable marker • small quilting ruler • fabric glue • 6� embroidery hoop

From each end of the fat eighth of the ombrÊ fabric, cut: • 1½� strips. This will give you two different colour tones to work with the dark fabric (Fabric A) and the light (Fabric B).

From fabric C, cut: • 4 5x8� pieces

NOTES: Finished size: 4� square.

This project teaches you how to draft the template onto the fabric

HOW TO MAKE: Take the piece of white foundation fabric and draw around the inner of the smaller part of the embroidery hoop with an erasable pen – this is the whole working area of the project. (See Pic A.)

Fold this circle in half, top to bottom, then left to right, opening up each time. This will find the centre of the circle (make a note of which way is the top of the piece).

Mark the centre of the circle.

Mark 2� from the centre along the fold towards the top of the piece. (See Pic B.) Use this mark, the folds and a small quilting ruler to line up the edges of the steps. This line will continue from one edge of the circle to the other, parallel with the centre folds.

Repeat this for all four sides of the square.

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B

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G Make a small mark 1� from the bottom-left corner of the square.

(See Pic C.) Using this mark, draw a 1� square, where two of the sides make up the 42 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

D

F

H outer square. (Lining up your ruler with the opposite side of the drawn lines helps keep your measurements accurate.) (See Pic D.) Once the first square is marked on the foundation

fabric you can draw on the second and third sections. Start with the third section, which is along the centre folds of the bottom-left quarter, then the second section is drawn in between the first section and the third section, making a second square. (See Pic E.) Repeat in this pattern for sections 4-7, numbering number the sections as you go to keep track of your sewing order! (See Pic F.)

PIECING: From Fabric A, cut a 1½� square and place onto the wrong side of the foundation fabric, centred over section 1.

(See Pic G.) From Fabric B, cut a 1½� square and place on top of the first piece.

(See Pic H.) Carefully turn all three pieces of fabric and sew along the line between section 1 and 2. (See Pic I.) This should give a Ÿ� seam.

Press open the working fabric. Make sure that both fabrics

Top tip

If you use a water-erasable marker it will need washing off before hanging, airerasable marker may fade before you finish the project!

hang over their sections by at least Ÿ� to give the next seam allowance. (See Pic J.) Cut a piece of Fabric A about ½� longer than the next section, lay it in place, and sew as before.

(See Pic K.) Repeat the method of cutting, placing and sewing, alternating fabric between A and B until sections 1-7 are complete.

With Fabric C, sew these pieces onto the edges of this complete square. The long sides of these pieces will be sewn along the outer lines of the square.

Starting with the left, then right, bottom, then top.

(See Pic L.)

DECORATIONS

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L

Amy says...

Impress your friends, family or colleagues by presenting this sweet hoop as a Secret Santa gift!

M

Top tip

If you have trouble with foundation piecing, cut the ombré strips at 2” to give yourself more room to work

N

If you wish to wash your piece, make sure all the edge pieces are secure and gently wash it by hand.

Leave to dry flat. Do not continue until completely dry. Make sure that you give it a good press before the next step.

Take the embroidery hoop outer ring and open the fastening to its maximum aperture.

Centre your completed block over the hoop.

Pop the inner hoop into the embroidery hoop, keeping the block centred as much as possible.

Turn it over and tension the piece, making sure it’s straight, and tighten the hoop when you’re happy with the placement.

Glue along the rim of the hoop.

Press the foundation fabric onto the glued edge. Leave this to dry.

With a sharp pair

of small scissors, trim along the edge of the hoop, making sure that the foundation fabric is securely in place.

(See Pic M.) Trim the remaining fabric to approximately ½” away from the embroidery hoop and glue to the inner edge of the hoop. (See Pic N.) Leave to dry. Tie your red ribbon and sew it in place. www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 43

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Proof is in the

BAG

PUDDING

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Make present giving all the more memorable with our quick-make cross stitch gift bag Project BETHANY ARMITAGE & SAM STERKEN

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • • • • • • • • •

2 50x37cm outer fabric 20cm square iron-on interfacing 80cm ribbon matching thread white, red, green & brown DK yarn large embroidery or darning needle medium-sized hand-sewing needle GĂźtermann metallic thread templates provided on pattern sheet or downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: Try to make sure that each cross stitch is sewn in the same order for a neater and more uniform finish Eg bottom right of the square to top left, then bottom left to top right and repeat Seam allowance is 2cm

FINISHED SIZE Approximately 45x32cm

HOW TO MAKE: Measure to find the centre of your bag or where 46 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

you would like to feature your motif.

Beginning with the bottom of the pudding and brown yarn, cross-stitch each colour section in turn, following the cross stitch pattern.

Once the design is complete, outline using three strands of metallic thread and a backstitch.

Be careful not to twist the thread as metallic thread has a coarser consistency and is more prone to tangling.

Lay the interfacing over the reverse of your design, making sure it covers it in full with an allowance around the edges. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, press the edges down so the interfacing protects the back of the design.

Don’t iron over the centre section. (See Pic A.)

E

BAG Place outer pieces wrong sides together and doublefold 1cm the top edge towards the wrong side. Pin and sew in place. (See Pic B.) Place the two outer pieces right sides together, pin matching up the sides and top edges. Start sewing 10cm down from the top edge. Continue down the long edge, bottom and remaining long side. Starting at the same point finish with a zigzag stitch. (See Pic C.) Press the seam allowance open along the 10cm opening. Carefully sew the edges down, starting at the top of one side, pivoting 0.5cm below the opening sewing across the seam and pivoting to continue up the other side of the seam allowance. (See Pic D.) Fold the top edge down 5cm and pin in place to

make a casing. Ensure your side seam lines up neatly.

Sew the casing down 0.5cm from the edge. (See Pic E.) Take your length of ribbon and attach a safety pin. Feed this through the casing and join with a knot or a couple of hand stitches and you’re all finished!

Top tip

Why not cross-stitch a name underneath to personalise your gift bag?

Bethany says...

To prevent knotting, use no more than 50cm of yarn/thread at a time, especially when using metallic floss

Shopping list Ronnie Kansas Troubles brushed cotton flannel, ÂŁ15 per metre www.raystitch.co.uk

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DECORATIONS

Reach for the

STARS These charming star decorations are perfect for hanging on the tree or as gifts for family and friends Project WENDY GARDINER McCall’s Brand Ambassador

MATERIALS & TOOLS: 33x16.5cm fabric remnant 35cm 3mm cord polyester fibrefill/toy stuffing awl or skewer (for poking hole through star) • 18 1cm bugle beads and 21 seed beads (optional) • templates provided on pattern sheet or downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk • • • •

CUTTING: Cut two star pieces from your fabric to make one ornament.

HOW TO MAKE: If adding beads, transfer the lines from the pattern

piece to one side of the star and hand-sew bugle beads and seed beads.

Pin star sections right sides together and stitch

Top tip

Choose beads that will contrast well with your background fabric

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A

with a 6mm seam allowance, leaving a turning gap on one edge.

Cut outward corners diagonally, clip into inward corners close to stitching. (See Pic A.) Turn right side out and stuff firmly.

Turn under 6mm on the open edges and slip-stitch together. (See Pic B.) Poke a hole through the top of the star. Insert the cord through the hole and knot ends together.

(See Pic C.)

FIND OUT MORE This easy star decoration is just one option in McCall’s 3777 which includes a tree skirt, plaited wreath, Christmas tree table decoration, stockings and six tree decorations.

To buy the pattern or view the selection of crafty patterns in the McCall’s range, visit www.sewdirect.com

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